Sei sulla pagina 1di 162

THE BEAUT Y EXPERT

APR

WOULD
YOU LET
YOUR DOCTOR
Snapchat
Your Surgery?

Your7-Day
Plan for
The
Beauty of
GLOWING
SKIN
41 women of color
speak upand
speak out
APRIL
IN THIS ISSUE
BEAUTY REPORTER
47 Look We Love: Copper
Smoky Eyes

48 Editors Favorites
50 Good News for Eczema
Sufferers Its a Powder! Its a Liquid!
Its a Lipstick!

54 One to Watch: Model Sara


Sampaio Pink-Tinted Creams
California Dreamin: Sunshine
in a Compact

56 The Most Stylish Toothbrush


and more IG-Worthy Dental Care

60 To Dye For: Healthier Color-


Treated Hair A Mysterious and
Seductive Scent From Frdric Malle
and Alber Elbaz A Look at the
Worlds Most Famous Concealer

62 The Chicest Way to Carry


Your Lipstick

FASHION
65 Frame Work. Guccis bejeweled
rose-colored sunglasses

66 Soldier On. Military-inspired


looks with feminine details

70 Rainbow Connection. Strappy


multicolored heels

72 Playing Angles. Statement-


making sculptural earrings

74 Elements of Style. Singer Dua


Lipa goes full glitter in a slip dress.

77 Here Comes the Sun. Bright,


cheery yellow pieces

130
NEWS & TRENDS
24 My Look. Talking Beauty With
PATRICK DEMARCHELIER

Phillipa Soo. The star of Hamilton


and Amlie on kissing costars,
surviving the N.Y.C. subway, and
IN THEIR OWN WORDS postshow makeup.
Model Imaan Hammam (above) and 40 other women of color on
what it means to be beautiful in 2017. Makeup colors: Lid Pop in Cocoa
Pop, Up-Lighting Illuminating Powder in Bronze Glow, and Chubby
Plump & Shine Liquid Lip Plumping Gloss in Normous Nude by Clinique.

4 ALLURE APRIL 2017


APRIL
36 Hair Inspiration. Sizing Up.
Big hair makes a stylish comeback.

38 Beauty School. Nail art


142 DAFT PINK
Soft colors that make
a strong impact. Makeup
breaks new boundaries,
Linda Evangelista shares her colors: Eyeshadow
skin-care secret, and more. in Freelove and
Woodstock, Afterglow
82 The Hair Pro. Cant Take Blush in Quickie, and
the Heat. Chris McMillan shares Vice Liquid Lipstick
his no-fuss styling tips for in Vanity Kills by
sexy, easy styles that look even Urban Decay.
better the next day.

85 Skin Secrets. The New


Beautiful-Skin Rules. Eight ways to
work the most promising research
into your skin-care regimen.

90 Beauty Passport. An
American in Paris. One Allure
editor goes in search of true
French beauty and discovers its
not as elusive as you might think.

102 Phenomenon. The Low-


Maintenance Myth. Barefaced,
air-dried, #iwokeuplikethis beauty
is actually pretty labor-intensive.

110 Master Plan. See the Light.


A seven-day strategy for your
most radiant complexion ever.

114 Health. The Green Party.


Before you run out and buy a
juicer, get the facts about why
you should eat your greens and
whygasp!juices arent ideal.

120 Test Drive. Tech It Up a


Notch. Nine new skin-care gadgets
even Luddites will want to try.
142 Living Out Loud. This 158 Higher Power. The seasons
FEATURES seasons most striking makeup shortest skirts and highest
looks rely on the softest of
130 The Beauty of Diversity. shades. See the new, bold way
heelsand how to get your legs
ready to wear them.
Forty-one women of color open
to wear pastels. By Lexi Novak
up about the politics of
appearance and how their looks 146 The Doctor Will Snap You REGULARS
have impacted their lives. Now. What does your plastic
surgeon have in common with
14 Contributors
Kim Kardashian West? More 16 Cover Look
than you think. Meet the social
media stars of the operating 20 Editors Letter
theater. By Loren Savini
32 Beauty by Numbers
152 The Acne Epidemic.
An increasing number of women
164 Shopping Guide
suffer from adult acneand 166 Autobiography. Gugu
there are an increasing number Mbatha-Raw fills in the blanks.
of ways to treat it.

ON THE COVER
Dilone, Imaan Hammam, and Aamito Lagums makeup looks can be re-created with the
following: Oh Sugar lip balm in Cupcake, Easy Breezy Brow Shape + Define Brow
Mascara in Rich Brown, Katy Kat Pearl Shadow + Highlighter in Tiger Rose and Tiger Eye,
BEN HASSETT

and Perfect Point Plus Eye Pencil in Espresso by CoverGirl. From left: Wool bodysuit
by Wendelborn. Knit top by Bottega Veneta. Silk top by Narciso Rodriguez. Photographed
by Patrick Demarchelier. Hair: Ward. Makeup: Romy Soleimani. Manicure: Donna D.
Fashion stylist: Laura Ferrara. Prop stylist: Cristina Forestieri. Details, see Shopping Guide.

6 ALLURE APRIL 2017


ALLURE .COM

BRAID
Eleven ultracool hairstyles to rock
this festival season, from double
French braids to box braids. Get fresh

Secrets
ideas at allure.com/pretty-braids.

FROM TOP: SCOTT TRINDLE/MANAGEMENT + ARTISTS/AUGUST; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (2)

Double-Tap
That
Discover new trends, get
behind-the-scenes access,
and see what products
our editors are currently
obsessing over by following

From A to Z
us on Instagram at @allure.
OPI Infinite Shine 2 Gel-Lacquer in
Two-timing the Zones Top skin-care experts break down the most
popularand crypticingredients in your favorite
products at allure.com/skin-glossary.
Above, from left: Glossier Priming Moisturizer Rich, Lancme
Visionnaire Crescendo Progressive Night Peel, Shiseido White Lucent
All Day Brightener, and Philosophy Time in a Bottle for Eyes.

8 ALLURE APRIL 2017


EDITOR IN CHIEF
MICHELLE LEE
CREATIVE DIRECTOR EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR


MARIE SUTER DANIELLE PERGAMENT AMANDA MEIGHER

B E AU T Y FAS H I O N
EXECUTIVE BEAUT Y DIRECTOR FASHION DIRECTOR Extra bobby
JENNY BAILLY RACHAEL WANG pins and a
DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR
ELIZABETH SIEGEL
SENIOR BEAUT Y EDITOR
JESSICA CHIA
BEAUT Y EDITOR
ACCESSORIES DIRECTOR
NICOLE CHAPOTEAU
ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR
JENNA WOJCIECHOWSKI

Bloody Mary,
for the, uh
vitamins.
LEXI NOVAK A RT I C L E S

Whats your BEAUT Y ASSISTANT ASSOCIATE EDITOR


KATHLEEN SUICO LOREN SAVINI

in-flight A RT
beauty tip? P H OTO
VISUALS DIRECTOR
DESIGN DIRECTOR
RENEE RUPCICH
RHIANNA RULE SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
NICOLE ARGENTO
BOOKINGS DIRECTOR
RO PENULIAR
P RO D U CT I O N
SENIOR PHOTO EDITORS
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR
JACQUELINE LADNER, HOLLY WATSON
HEATHER TUMA NAPOLITANO
ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR
PRODUCTION MANAGER
HANNAH CHOI
VALERIE THOMAS
PRODUCTION ASSISTANT
R E S E A RC H EMMA LOUISE JOSLYN
RESEARCH DIRECTOR
LORI SEGAL C O PY
RESEARCH EDITOR COPY CHIEF


AMBER ANGELLE CATHERINE GAMBRELL
ASSOCIATE RESEARCH EDITOR
CRISTINA RIVERA
COPY EDITOR
AURA DAVIES


Elizabeth Arden
Eight Hour Cream.
A flying-phobes A L LU R E .C O M


best friend:
Xanax. Calm mind,
calm skin.
DIGITAL DIRECTOR
SIMONE OLIVER
DEPUT Y DIGITAL EDITOR RACHEL JACOBY ZOLDAN
DIGITAL DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR SOPHIA PANYCH
SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR DEENA CAMPBELL
SENIOR SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR GERILYN MANAGO
DIGITAL EDITORS ELIZABETH DENTON, SEUNGHEE SUH
DIGITAL PRODUCTION MANAGER MONICA PERRY
VIDEO PRODUCER MAYA MARGOLINA
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER REBECCA SHINNERS
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL BEAUT Y EDITOR SARAH KINONEN
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR DEVON ABELMAN
ASSOCIATE SOCIAL MEDIA PRODUCER ARIBA ALVI
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL PRODUCER LARA ADEKOLA
ASSOCIATE PREDITOR ANNA ST YPKO
ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR CHANTEL MOREL
SENIOR PRODUCT MANAGER CATHY ZHANG
ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT LINDSAY SANSONE
ANALY TICS MANAGER TULIKA SINGH

CONTRIBUTING EDITORIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, PUBLIC RELATIONS


PATRICIA ALFONSO TORTOLANI ERIN KAPLAN
CONTRIBUTING PRODUCTION DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTING ENTERTAINMENT EDITOR
GRETCHEN VITAMVAS LAURA MORGAN
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR
JILLIAN DEMPSEY, DAVID DENICOLO, MEGAN SALERNO
MEIRAV DEVASH, JOLENE EDGAR, ASSISTANT BUSINESS MANAGER
FRANCIS KURKDJIAN,
TAYLOR SHEA
BROOKE LE POER TRENCH,
CHRIS McMILLAN, JUDITH NEWMAN, EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
LIANA SCHAFFNER JESA CALAOR
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

FO U N D I N G E D I TO R
LINDA WELLS

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR
ANNA WINTOUR

10 ALLURE APRIL 2017


PUBLISHER, CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER
AGNES BOGDAN CHAPSKI
HEAD OF BRAND MARKETING & STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, FINANCE & OPERATIONS
JILL STEINBACH FRIEDSON KEVIN DONOVAN
HEAD OF DIGITAL REVENUE
NICOLE AMICO SMITH

A DV E RT I S I N G D I G I TA L


EXECUTIVE DIRECTORS DIGITAL SALES DEVELOPMENT MANAGER
MARIA GARCIA, KIM CONWAY HALEY, SAMANTHA DANA
LAUREN DECKER LERMAN, SANDRA MAURIELLO
DIGITAL CAMPAIGN MANAGER
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
FASHION, JEWELRY & WATCH
SARAH YORK RICHARDS
DIRECTOR
CARLY GRESH
ERICA CHEUNG

DIGITAL SALES PLANNER


ELIZABETH MILLER

Shea-butter
hand cream is a
lifesaver.
DIGITAL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES CONTENT MARKETING
HARRIET KADAR, ALISON WOOD & PA RT N E RS H I PS
MANAGER EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, CONTENT MARKETING
ALEXANDRIA HAUGHEY
ALEXIS WALL
EXECUTIVE SOUTHWEST DIRECTOR
EZRA SEAN ALVAREZ 323-965-3564 EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, STRATEGIC
SAMPLING & E-COMMERCE
EXECUTIVE MIDWEST DIRECTORS
LEAH ASHLEY
CHRISTINA KROLOPP 312-649-6731
ANGIE PACKARD PRENDERGAST 312-649-3509 STRATEGIC SAMPLING MANAGER
PACIFIC NORTHWEST DIRECTOR NICOLE SAFIR
NATALIE BANKER TAQUINO 415-955-8280
NEW ENGLAND/DETROIT I N T EG R AT E D M A R K E T I N G
KRISTIN HAVENS 585-255-0207 & C R E AT I V E S E RV I C E S
DIRECT RESPONSE
Whats your REBECCA VOLK
800-753-5370 EXT. 489
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
ERIN BRENNAN
in-flight ITALY DESIGN DIRECTOR

beauty tip? ELENA DE GIULI


011-39-02-655-84223
MARIS BODELL

SENIOR DIRECTORS
U.K./FRANCE STEFENI BELLOCK, CHRIS MANCIVALANO
SELIM MATARACI 011-33-1-44-78-00-62
DIRECTOR
SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTOR JUSTIN REIS
SHERRI GINSBERG
SENIOR MANAGER
EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT MALLORY MILLER
TO THE PUBLISHER
VINCENT KEEGAN
M A R K E T I N G S E RV I C E S
SALES ASSOCIATES
JULIA BROKAW, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
CAROLINE GRANGER GERARD FARRELL


INTEGRATED ASSISTANTS SENIOR DIRECTOR,
ZUIE BILLINGS, ALEXANDRA KELIKIAN, MARKETING INTELLIGENCE
CARA KURICA, STEPHANIE TILLISON JENNIFER FRIEDMAN PEREZ

Lots of sleep

and a good
carry-on-friendly
moisturizer.
P U B L I S H E D BY C O N D N AST
CHAIRMAN EMERITUS S. I. NEWHOUSE , JR.
PRESIDENT & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER ROBERT A . SAUERBERG, JR.
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER DAVID E . GEITHNER
CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER & PRESIDENT OF REVENUE JAMES M. NORTON
EVP & CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER FRED SANTARPIA
CHIEF HUMAN RESOURCES OFFICER JOANN MURRAY
CHIEF COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER CAMERON R. BLANCHARD
CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER EDWARD CUDAHY
EVPCONSUMER MARKETING MONICA RAY
SVPBUSINESS OPERATIONS DAVID ORLIN
SVPMANAGING DIRECTOR, 23 STORIES JOSH STINCHCOMB
SVPNET WORK SALES & PARTNERSHIPS, COND NAST
& CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER, CN LISA VALENTINO
SVPFINANCIAL PLANNING & ANALYSIS SUZANNE REINHARDT
SVPSTRATEGY, 23 STORIES PADRAIG CONNOLLY
SVPAD PRODUCTS & MONETIZATION DAVID ADAMS
SVPLICENSING CATHY HOFFMAN GLOSSER
SVPRESEARCH & ANALY TICS STEPHANIE FRIED
SVPDIGITAL OPERATIONS LARRY BAACH
SVPHUMAN RESOURCES NICOLE ZUSSMAN
GENERAL MANAGERDIGITAL MATTHEW STARKER

C O N D N AST E N T E RTA I N M E N T C O N D N AST I N T E R N AT I O N A L


JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

PRESIDENT DAWN OSTROFF CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE JONATHAN NEWHOUSE


EVP/GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL VIDEO JOY MARCUS PRESIDENT NICHOLAS COLERIDGE
EVP & CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER SAHAR ELHABASHI Cond Nast is a global media company
EVPMOTION PICTURES JEREMY STECKLER producing premium content for more
EVPALTERNATIVE T V JOE LABRACIO than 263 million consumers in 30 markets.
EVPCN STUDIOS AL EDGINGTON CONDENAST.COM
SVPMARKETING & PARTNER MANAGEMENT TEAL NEWLAND CONDENASTINTERNATIONAL .COM

12 ALLURE APRIL 2017


CONTRIBUTORS

The Women of April


To all the women of color who shared the
highly personal experiences of living in
their own skinand skin tonein this issue,
thank you. Thank you for your openness,
your sincerity, your frank discussion of
intolerance, self-acceptance, and love. And
Priyanka
Chopra thank you for reminding us that the most
beautiful skin tone of all is the one thats yours.

Susan Constance
Kelechi Wu
Padma Watson
Lakshmi

Zazie
Beetz

Meghan
Markle

Jessica
Alba

Demi
Lovato FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

Dascha Misha
Aja Green
Polanco Naomi
King

Veronica
Webb
Eva
Longoria Joan
Smalls
COVER LOOK

From left:
Dilone, Lagum,
and Hammam
danced between
takes. These
pages: For fashion
credits, see
Shopping Guide.

SUNSHINE
STATE
Behind the scenes at Allures
cover shoot with models Dilone,
Aamito Lagum, and Imaan Hammam.

T
here were selfies, hugs, and a few playful
butt slaps. Platters of fresh ceviche and
stone crabs. And hips swaying to dub beats.
But this wasnt the best beach party ever:
It was Allures April cover shoot on Crandon
Park Beach in Key Biscayne, Florida.
Were all friends, so its awesome that
you got us all together, said Dilone, who, along with
fellow models Lagum and Hammam, was photographed
by Patrick Demarchelier for a celebration of the diversity
in beauty in 2017.
Having these beautiful girls with coloring that is just
magical, I wanted to choose clothes that complemented
them, said stylist Laura Ferrara. Racks of gauzy bronze,
brown, and beige dresses and pants gave a nod
to the 80s in an organic, free-spirited way, while gold
statement earrings glimmered like the sun on the
LUCIE HUGARY (2)

Atlantic, where the women splashed around before their


final shot of the day. PATRICIA TORTOLANI

Go behind the scenes with Dilone, Lagum, and Hammam


on the set of our photo shoot at allure.com/models-bts.

16 ALLURE APRIL 2017


COVER LOOK

Hair
This is hair with character, said
hairstylist Ward, acknowledging
that with these natural, individual
styles, he was having a pretty
laid-back day. Im using an iron

BEAUTY
to define some of the curls and
adding grooming cream to protect
against the humidity, but thats

LESSONS
it. I want it wild and unstyled. No
hocus-pocus.
Makeup
Makeup artist Romy Soleimani
skipped foundation and used
a blend of oils and highlighters to
emphasize the models skin tones.
She layered gold and bronze
cream shadows on the eyelids,
tapped the gold shade on the
cheekbones, then dabbed on an
oil-based lip treatment.
FROM TOP: LUCIE HUGARY; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

The models looks can be re-created with the following (clockwise from top):
Oh Sugar lip balm in Cupcake, Easy Breezy Brow Shape + Define Brow
Mascara in Rich Brown, Katy Kat Pearl Shadow + Highlighter in Tiger Rose and
Tiger Eye, and Perfect Point Plus Eye Pencil in Espresso by CoverGirl.
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

The Skin
Were In n 41 years, my skin has accomplished a lot.
It endured an astonishing ten-inch growth spurt at
age 16, leaving a grid of stretch marks on my hips as a
souvenir. Its balloonedtwiceto insane proportions
while pregnant. And its weathered its share of sun damage
during those reckless invincible years while still
miraculously keeping me protected.
Frankly, judging by my parents, good skin runs in my
family. I admit I was willfully blind to the dangers of the
sun in my more naive years. Three-hour summertime
field-hockey practices without sunscreen? Meh, Ill be fine,
Mom. I ended each school year a shade of caramel latte
and started the next as a dark roast. So I get how people
can ignore prevailing wisdom. Applying and reapplying
sunscreen is inconvenient. Its messy. Its a form of health
insurance that were never quite sure well need.
Of course, Ive learned a lot about skin care over
the years, and specifically about sun care.
Sadly, these days, I cant tell whether the fear of
wrinkles is scarier to people than the fear of skin cancer.
Two years ago, my husband lost his best friend to melanoma,
and its changed our lives. He was an athleteyoung, fit,
vibrantwith a family. Its all facts and figures until it becomes real
in your life. And let me tell you: It is real, and it is frightening. An alarming
number of people in this country still dont protect their skin from the sun.
A 2013 survey found that only 29.9 percent of American women (and 14.3
percent of men) regularly use sunscreen on both their faces and other
exposed skin when outside in the sun for more than an hour.
Dear God, please stop using tanning beds if youre still one of the stubborn
holdouts. And whatever your motivation, wear a product with SPF 30 every
day and practice good sun care. Yes, those steps might protect you from
crows-feet and laugh lines, but they might also save your lifeand your kids
lives. I gotta say, as accomplishments go, skin thats protected from
cancer is a tough one to beat.
FROM LEFT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; HANNAH CHOI

Michelle Lee, Editor in Chief


@heymichellelee

20 ALLURE APRIL 2017


MY LOOK

Talking Beauty
WITH

PHILLIPA
SOO How the star of
Hamilton and Amlie
leaves her mark on
Broadwaybut never
on a costars cheek.
By Elizabeth Siegel

i
Wool vest and silk top by Michael
Kors Collection. These pages: Hair,
Jamal Hammadi; makeup, Samuel
Paul. Fashion stylist: Emma Wyman.
Details, see Shopping Guide.
PHOTOGRAPHED
BY CLARA BALZARY

f youve spent a Sunday afternoon refreshing Ticketmaster or scouring Broadway for


scalpers or belting out Stay Alive, then you already know Phillipa Sooat least, you know her
alias Eliza Schuyler Hamilton. I was very proud to be a part of something that reminds
us that we come from all different sorts of places and that were all just trying to live the best
lives we can, says Soo, in a voice thats clear and bright and, holy cow, really strong. Because
the 26-year-olds vocal cords arent those of a normal human. Theyre a Grammy-winning
phenomenon: From opening night until last July, Soo made Broadway a little better, a little
cooler as Hamiltons leading lady. And this month, shes moving two blocks north to the
Walter Kerr Theatre, stepping into the quirky French lead in Amlie. When youre on a show
schedule, everything is heightened, says Soo. Youre always aware of what works and what
doesnt so you can be at your best. For Soo, that meant practicing roughly 23 hours a day.
It also meant overhauling her skin-care routine and finding one perfect cherry-red lipstick.
MY LOOK

I have really straight lashes,


but if I curl them and put on
this mascara, it holds the
curl well, says Soo of 100%
Pure Fruit Pigmented Ultra
Lengthening Mascara. And
it smells like berries.

On preshow rituals: Theres a very old tradition


of theater actors doing their own makeup. Its
like putting on your mask. Theres an element of
storytelling involved in ityou put on your
character when you put on your makeup. At
least thats how I like to look at it.

On products that smell good enough to eat:


I think Im obsessed with food. Maybe thats why
Im making the transition to organic products
they just feel yummy. I like vanilla scents.
I like mint. I like sage. I like the idea of smelling
blackberries every time I blink. Its so good.

On climate challenges: The heat, the air


conditioners, the environment in generalthe
theater can be so drying. At night, Ill do coconut
oil or almond oil on my face as a mask to replenish
my skin. Ive found those are so simple but work
better than any other product. Coconut oil is so Poplin top by Emilio Pucci.
good, but if you dont want to smell like a cookie, Details, see Shopping
sweet-almond oil isnt as pungent. Guide. Below: Sircuit
Skin Cosmeceuticals Day
On kissing with lipstick: I did a show where I Care Protective Day
had to kiss my fellow actor, but I also had to Moisturizer smells like
wear a really bright red lip. So what you can do a cookie, says Soo.
is put a translucent setting powder on your

finger and just press it on top of your lip color and itll
stay. And it worked! Make Up For Ever HD Microfinish
Powder works really well.

On making questionable life choices: When I was


in middle school, I had these very funky highlights in
my hair. I felt really cool, but I dont think it was very
flattering. But I learned from it, and now I laugh about it.

On the Metropolitan Transit Authority: Ive become


FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

hyperaware of the fact that there are germs everywhere.


But I like Dr. Bronners Lavender Organic Hand Sanitizer,
because it feels like its natural, it doesnt make my skin
dry, and it smells great. If Ive been riding on the train all
day and I have to go to lunch, I just spritz my
hands real quick and feel good that I did that.

On decompressing after a show: At the end


Above: Soo in the of the night, I have my show makeup on. If I want
musical adaptation to go out and say hi to some friends without
of Amlie. Right: Soo having to go through the process of doing my
received a Tony makeup over again, its easy to throw on a
nomination for her
different lip color, like Tarte Tarteist Creamy
portrayal of Eliza
Matte Lip Paint in Bae. Its a beautiful red.
Schuyler in Hamilton.
Its classic.

26 ALLURE APRIL 2017


BEAUT Y BY NUMBERS

Skin Tone
Light, medium, darkas if it were that simple. A look at
how the world has redefined shades, reimagined
labels, and broken down barriers. REPORTING BY JESA CALAOR

1937
YEAR MAX FACTOR INTRODUCED
Pan-Cake, the first commercially

20
available foundation. It cost $1.50
and came in six shades.

,000
NUMBER OF SKIN TONES THAT

80
Lancmes Le Teint Particulier Custom

$
Made Makeup is able to match using a
computerized color-blending algorithm.

PRICE OF A BOTTLE OF THE


custom-made foundation.

16,000
NUMBER OF CARROTS PRESIDENT
Trump would have had to consume over
the last 15 years to develop his unnaturally
orangish skin tone from carotenemia.

2,500
NUMBER OF SKIN TONES
captured by artist Anglica Dass
in Humanae, her ongoing series
of portraits of people standing in

105
front of Pantone shades that
match their skin color.

NUMBER OF BOTTLES
of Black Opal Ebony
Brown foundation that
Brazilian ballerina Ingrid
Silva uses every season
to paint her pointe shoes
to match her skin tone.

2016 YEAR MATTEL UNVEILED


JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

its Barbie Fashionistas, a


collection of dolls with seven
different skin tones.

32 ALLURE APRIL 2017


H A I R I N S P I R AT I O N

At Oscar de la Renta,
a touch of teasing
enhanced the models
natural textures.

Valenttino
TKTK

UP
To create the
pumped-up,
roughed-up
beehives at
Anna Sui,

SIZING
stylists used
texturizing
shampoo,
mousse, and
hair spray.

Big hair used


to mean big
cheesy. But the

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JASON LLOYD-EVANS; PETER WHITE/GETTY IMAGES; IMAXTREE; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; IMAXTREE
volume we saw
A tousled on the spring At Reem
texture
gave the runways was Acra, fluffy
curls were
low
ponytails at a little messy, twisted and
piled on top
Sportmax
an easy,
totally cool, and of the head.

lived-in
look.
utterly sexy.

Mini bangs
and beachy
waves at
Zero + Maria
Cornejo.

36 ALLURE APRIL 2017


T H E T I P S , T H E S H O R T C U T S , A N D A L L T H E S T E P - B Y- S T E P S

Beauty School
BY LEXI NOVAK
Delpozo

THE GLOW
DOWN
Youve been wearing blush forever, you say. Yes, we have, too.
FROM TOP: IMAXTREE; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

But before you do your usual two-second swipe, consider


these fresh new ways to highlight your cheeks.

1 2 3
Innocent. Look in Sexy. Blend a brick-red Lit. For cheeks that
Flower
a mirror and smile. See or fuchsia cream you would swear glow
Beauty those rounded areas? blush along the outer from within, rub a
Flower Pots Thats not where the blush cheekbones and rosy cream blush along
Powder goes. You want it just then up around the the cheekbones, then
Blush in below for a youthful but temples in a C shape to top it with an iridescent
Sweet Pea not doll-like look. sculpt and contour. white powder.
BEAUT Y SCHOOL

HOW-TO:
RODARTE
GLITTER
CUTICLES

Rodarte

We push them; we snip them; we ignore them.


But at the Rodarte show, manicurist Tracylee
highlighted cuticles, tracing them with gold
glitter. Its like jewelry for your nails, she says.
Step 1. Swipe nails and cuticles with a cotton
pad soaked in rubbing alcohol to remove any
Morgan natural oils and help the polishes adhere better.
Taylor
Professional Step 2. Paint nails with one coat of opaque nude polish.
Nail Lacquer Step 3. Using a thin detail brush, draw a single line of
in Glitter & gold glitter around the entire border of the nail, keeping
Gold and
the polish on the skin.
Butter London
6-Piece Nail Art Step 4. Skip the topcoat. We wanted that mix of textures
Tool Set and didnt want shiny to compete with shiny, Tracylee says.

PLAYING MATCHMAKER
Color-correctingrelying on complementary shades to even out
skin discolorationis awesome. Genius, even. But its also a little baffling.
Makeup artist Vincent Oquendo gives a quick refresher on makeup color theory.

Peach and orange are A lilac or soft pink


your best bets for Green does counteract primer will pep up sallow Clockwise from top:
IMAXTREE (3); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFES)

covering brown spots and redbut you dont want skin instantly. Smooth on Becca First Light
undereye circles, says to walk out the door a silicone-free formula Priming Filter
Oquendo. Using your looking like an alien. For with subtle light Instant Complexion
fingertip, tap the color- Refresh, Physicians
general inflammation, try reflectors, then top it with
correcting cream where Formula Mineral
a sheer green-tinted a luminous-finish Wear Cushion
needed, and follow with primer. To hide a honking- foundation. Corrector + Primer
your usual foundation. If red pimple, dab the spot Duo in Yellow/
your circles need even with green concealer to Green, and Make
more lightening, top them neutralize the redness, Up For Ever
with a thin layer of skin- then use a brush to blend 5 Camouflage
toned concealer. your regular concealer Cream Palette in
on top of it. Professional
Corrective Shades.

40 ALLURE APRIL 2017


BEAUT Y SCHOOL

SO
CHARMING
Pins, rings, butterflies, and things.
When it comes to dressing up our
hair this spring, the question is:
Dolce & Gabbana
What wont we pile on?

T
he first rule for wearing hair accessories this
Valentino spring: Go all in. No wussing out with a single
couture
dainty pin tucked at the base of a bun. You want
your charms front and centerand on the side,
too. Second rule: Stop being so fancy about it all.
Sure, you can wear bling-y clips with a gown, but
they look just as cool with a T-shirt and jeans. In fact, they look
cooler. As for the hairstyle that is framing the charms,
hairstylist Chris Appleton likes a ponytail, a chunky braid, a
messy bunas long as theres plenty of texture. You want to
make sure you have a lot of grit so the accessories have a
good anchor, he says. Second-day hair holds clips better than
freshly washed hair, but if grime just isnt
your thing, a little dry shampoo will give
clean hair some grip.
Clockwise from top left: Lelet NY hair
comb; Urban Outfitters butterfly hair clips;
Lelet NY hairpin and comb; Jennifer Behr
hairpins. Details, see Shopping Guide.

Alexander
McQueen

Keira
Knightley
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

LET ME TELL YOU


I have this silicone mask that I bought on Amazon. Ill layer
on my favorite skin-care products, and then Ill put it on
top to keep them from drying out. Its this thin, reusable silicone
mask; you just rinse it after you use it. Linda Evangelista

42 ALLURE APRIL 2017


T H E B E AU T Y N E W S YO U N E E D T O K N O W N O W

Beauty Reporter
Three gorgeous
cases for copper,
clockwise from
left: Amber Heard,
Ellie Bamber, and
Adwoah Aboah.

LOOK WE LOVE

Copper
Tone
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

Discover copper lids and youll wonder where


theyve been all your neutral-loving life. The look is
delicate enough to wear all day long, sultry enough
to ensnare anyone you wink at, andheres the
clincherit works on every last skin tone. For real.
Dust the tawny metallic from lash to crease (or
beyond) as Bamber and Aboah did here, or double
down by smudging it into your lower lash line like
Heard. There you have it: all the sex appeal of a
sooty smoky eye, warmed up and shot through with
shimmer. Heres to a sizzling spring. JESSICA CHIA
Make Up For Ever Star Lit Powder in Copper.
Top right: Anastasia Beverly Hills Eye Shadow in Wine.

APRIL 2017 ALLURE 47


BE AUT Y REPORTER
Clarins Hydra-
Essentiel Cooling
Gel. We refrigerate
ours to calm our
skin after a killer
OPI Infinite Shine 2 nail workoutor
polish in Thats Hula- commute. $48.
rious, Do You Sea What
I Sea?, andd Is
Is That
Tha
Tha
Th att a
Spear in Your
You ur Pocket?
Poocket
ock et?
e t
The beach hies
iestt bl
blues
luees
this side off th
he No ort
rth
Shore. $122.50 each
2.5
2.50 ch
c h.
Dii r Add
Dio ddi dict L
di Lip Glow
Col
C olor
or Rev
Revive
Re iive
iv
ve
v er Balm
in Be
in Bererryry.
ry.
y ItI ss a balm!
Its a li
It
It lips
pstssttiick
ck
c k! Its a...
bli
b lipst
psts ick
blipstick! c ! A swipe sw
sw
of this
tthi
th
his shssheer
hee
he
heeeer purple
giv
giives
gives es your
you
yo
y o r lips
ou lip
ip a
hto
hit off glossy,
glo
gl oss
ssy, y, berry,
ssex-pot-y
sex
se
e -p
ex -po
po
pot-y
ot-y y depth.
de
d ep $33.

Nest Fragrances Black


Tulip. Its named for a
flower thats a symbol of

EDITORS
love and justice in a
classic French novel
a lot for a perfume to
live up to. But this sweet

FAVORITES
blend of violet and
plum is lovely and
perfectly balanced. $72.

THE STUFF WE PLAN TO STEAL FROM THE


BEAUTY CLOSET WHEN NO ONES LOOKING.

Milani Spotlight
Face & Eye Strobe
Palette in Golden
Light. This swirl of
deep-gold, rose-gold,
and bronze powders
feels creamy (a cool
trick) and goes on soft
and glitter-free. $12.

Lancme Grandise Liner in Fuchsia,


Silver Snow, and Matte Saphir.
These club-kid-bright liners call for
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFES)

guts but almost no skill. They go Elizabeth and


on in a single silky swoosh. $32 each. James Nirvana
Rose Dry Shampoo.
One of our favorite
texturizers now
gives us second-day
Olsen-twin hair that
exudes even more
sexy-cool: a musky
rose scent. $28
(available in May).
BE AUT Y REPORTER

17% OF ADULTS IN
THE UNITED
STATES REPORT
SUFFERING
FROM AT
LEAST ONE
ECZEMATOUS
SYMPTOM.

Eczema tends
to show up on
the hands,
wrists, upper
chest, eyelids,
inner elbows

SCALY-SKIN
and knees,
ankles, and feet.

FIXES
i f you dont have eczema, a skin condition that
shows up in the form of flaky, rough, red or brown
patches, you might not know there isnt a cure
for it. If youre one of the roughly 32 million people
in the U.S. who do have it, you cant forget.
The skin freak-outs are embarrassing (at best) and
painful, raw, and itchy (at worst). Current
treatmentsover-the-counter moisturizers, bleach or
oatmeal baths, and prescription corticosteroids and
antihistamineshelp, but theyre stopgap solutions
and dont work for everyone. Which is why more
than 20 medications targeting eczema are now in
development, says Chicago dermatologist Jonathan
Silverberg. Welcome news. And some more: One of
those new treatments, targeting moderate to severe
eczema, is expected to be available this spring.
An injectable drug known as dupilumab (brand
name: Dupixent) was given priority review by the FDA
and, if approved, will be available by prescription.
It delivers antibodies that block the signaling of two
inflammatory molecules researchers believe drive
Sephora the disease. Previously, these patients had to turn to
Collection immunosuppressive medications, whose potential
Lip Powders
FROM TOP: BRYDIE MACK; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (2)

side effects (organ damage, a higher risk for infections


and certain cancers) are grim.
For milder eczema, new alternatives with

Powder Moves natural ingredients are cropping up. New York City
dermatologist Steven Wang worked with his
Powder for your face? Pretty straightforward. But powder for your herbalist father to blend antibacterial indigo-leaf
lips? Now were talking serious chemistry. Lip powders (think and anti-inflammatory licorice-root extracts
of them as matte lipsticks in a funky, possibly-unnecessary-but- with skin-barrier-repairing shea butter. He says
whatever-totally-cool delivery system) contain a hydrogel polymer the final product, Dr. Wang Herbal Skincare
called silica silylate. The formula seems to liquefy on contact, but Eczema Ointment Natural Calming Moisturizer,
you end up with a dry finish. Whether you try one from a K-beauty can supplement topical steroids by helping to
brand, like Touch in Sol, Cle, or RiRe, or a newer optionsuch interrupt the itch-scratch cycle. Allure editors have
as the Sephora ones aboveexpect a lightweight, silky feel. If you also had luck with Skinfixs Eczema Balm, a
find them too drying for all-day wear, theres a hack for that: thick salve with sweet almond and jojoba oils and
Layer one over a creamy lipstick for a more velvety look. LEXI NOVAK soothing colloidal oatmeal. JESSICA MIGALA

50 ALLURE APRIL 2017


BEAUT Y REPORTER

T H E O N E W E R E WATC H I N G

SARA
SAMPAIO
Sure, she doesnt look all that threatening over
there with those soulful eyes, but model Sara
Sampaio could destroy you (or, depending on your
size, someone much larger than you). The Portuguese
runway star (and maybe youve seen the Victorias
Secret billboards?) has a brown belt in karate and
a passion for boxing. And like any superhero, she
knows her way around a good red lipstick.
On pulling no punches: I do weight training and
high-intensity interval running. I used to box, but
Id punch so hard that my wrists hurt for a week.
On taking the heat: I get split ends from all the
heat my hair takes backstage; Moroccanoil
Treatment makes my ends look a lot less frayed.
On her quest for perfection: I love red lipstick,
so I would love to create the perfect shade.
Not too orange, not too blue.
On her 35,000-foot secret: I travel with Sisleys
face masks, always. My skin gets so dry on planes.
On her beauty shortcut: Highlighter. Even
if I dont have time to do my hair and makeup,
Ill conceal spots and dab a little on.
On a very wise $4 investment: I always
have lip balm with me. Lately Ive been using

FROM TOP: YELENA YEMCHUK/TRUNK ARCHIVE; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (3)


one from Aquaphor. Its so rich.
On making the rest of us feel like babies:
Ive gone swimming with sharks three times.
Twice in South Africa in a cage with great
whites, and with reef sharks in Bora-Bora. It was PRODUCT REVIEW
incredible. JESSICA CHIA
Benefit
Galifornia Blush
Its supposed to Give cheeks a sunny rosiness
OUR NEW OBSESSION worthy of a Santa Monica surfer.

Rosy Outlooks The first thing I noticed was Its vaguely candied
scent. Pez? A strawberry scratch-and-sniff sticker?
Never before has our skin care looked so much like When I wore it I rethought my entire look. This
raspberry yogurt. New primers and moisturizers come shimmery peach-pink made this black-clad East
in sheer, pale-pink tints that can brighten every skin tone. Coaster look like someone who surfs before work.
When applied under foundation, a veil of pink will When I shared it It flattered friends with olive and
even things out, cover dullness, and boost luminosity on dark skin (the deeper your
both pale and dark complexions, says Los Angeles complexion, the more you need).
makeup artist Molly R. Stern. But pink-tinged creams Now I Swirl this on (with
arent for everyone: If redness is an issue for you, a rosy my own fluffy blush
primer would only enhance it. SARAH KINONEN brush, not the enclosed
Our pink picks, from left: Givenchy Highlighter Mmoire de square one) whenever
Forme, Nars Radiance Primer Broad Spectrum SPF 35, Im lookingor feeling
Shiseido Ibuki Smart Filtering Smoother, and LOral Paris a little too East Coast.
Age Perfect Cell Renewal Rosy Tone Cream. LEXI NOVAK
BE AUT Y REPORTER

IS YOUR
TOOTHBRUSH
SEXY
ENOUGH?

Weve found five fancy


ways to help you smile big.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: KUTLU/TRUNK ARCHIVE; ANGELO PENNETTA/TRUNK ARCHIVE; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (4)
Quip electric toothbrush: This sylphlike
wand (left), with its brushed-metal finish,
is the antithesis of its plastic drugstore
peers. For a clean mouth, its soft bristles
buzz for two minutes. For a cleaner
mouth, you can have replacement heads
arrive automatically every three months.
Crest Whitestrips With Light: The
Earth Shift tongue cleaner: If youre
classic whitening strips can now be
going to manually rake germs off your
supercharged with blue LED light
tonguewhich, admittedly, isnt
(below), which means the bleaching
glamorousyou may as well do it with a
process takes 10 treatments instead of
Calder-esque ribbon of copper. The metal
14and the sparkle lasts for up to three
is toxic to bad bacteria, says Brian Kantor,
years (depending on your coffee habit).
a cosmetic dentist in New York City.
Fig + Yarrow Oral Hygiene Rinse:
Boka Cocorinse packets: These cute
This clear menthol-and-eucalyptus rinse
mustard-packet-size pouches contain
(right) swishes away bad germs with
coconut oil spiked with peppermint
two natural antiseptics: witch hazel and
and spearmint, so oil pulling (swishing
hydrogen peroxide. And it comes in a
with coconut oil for 20 minutes in an
bottle wed almost display on our mantel.
attempt to remove toxins) is considerably
less gag-inducing than it once was.
But it seems some things arent

100
upgradableyou still have to spit it
out in the trash. LEXI NOVAK

The average number of bacterial species in a human


mouth. Use an alcohol-free rinse, which wont dry tissue
as it kills potentially disease-causing bacteria (some
of which may threaten your heart health), says Kantor.
Try Colgate Total Advanced Health mouthwashit also
stains those germs so you can watch em go down the drain.
BEAUT Y REPORTER
HAIR NEWS

DAMAGE
CONTROL
We bleach. We
dye. We deal with
IF YOU WANT TO GO PLATINUM...
the (sometimes
The only bond builder thats actually
literal) fallout. true to the name, Olaplex contains an
But maybe we dont ingredient that creates new bonds
have to. In-salon in the hair that are even stronger than
the ones broken by the peroxide
treatments called
in permanent dyes. It can counteract
bond builders are extreme damage from drastic color
making it possible changes, allowing a brunette to go
to change our color white blonde without crazy breakage.

without destroying
IF YOU LIKE RICH BROWNS
our hair. Lexi Novak AND REDS...
B3 Brazilian Bond Builder uses a
gluelike polymer to seal the hairs cuticle
and protect it (and, in turn, the bonds
inside the hair shaft) from getting
roughed up during the coloring process.
This sealing also means that any
dye deposited will be less likely to leach
outa bonus for rich brown shades
TA K I N G N OT E S and, most of all, fade-prone redheads.

Black Magic
Color lasts about two weeks longer.

At the Parisian bistro Le Voltaire, perfumer Frdric Malle IF YOU HAVE HONEY HIGHLIGHTS...
studied designer Alber Elbaz over turbot and frites. I was Matrix Bond Ultim8, Redken pH-Bonder,
curious to see if wed be compatible, says Malle, whod and LOral Professionnel Smartbond
admired Elbazs work for Lanvin. They talked successes, all contain maleic acid, which lubricates
failures, and their unorthodox methods. People should be the protein chains in your hair so its
more superstitious, says Malle, adding that he and Elbaz left less brittle and more elastic, says
have a few of their own: Alber always cuts cloth in one go, cosmetic chemist Joseph Cincotta. And
and I always smell perfumes on paper folded in two. colorists like Johnny Ramirez, a co-owner
Soon enough, they got to work brainstorming a perfume. of Ramirez Tran salon in Beverly Hills,
There were more lunches. More frites. More bottles of say Smartbond wont dilute the viscosity
wine. Elbaz sketched an evil eye, and they had their flacon. of dye or bleach as other formulations
Malle created an aldehyde with a hint of musk. Voil: can, so your highlights stay exactly where

FROM TOP: JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL/BLAUBLUT-EDITION.COM; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (2)


their scent, as warm as lunch with a confidant. Coming up your colorist wants them.
with a name was easy: Superstitious. ELIZABETH SIEGEL
Left: Superstitious Alber Elbaz by Frdric Malle.

Highlight Reel
I received it by mistake, says By Terry founder
Terry de Gunzburg, who created Yves Saint
Laurents iconic brightening wand 25 years ago.
We [at YSL] had a click-pen concealer with a
sponge, but one day the supplier sent it with a
brush, she says. Rather than tossing the defective
pen, de Gunzburg filled it with a mixture she
used to touch up models on photo shootstoner,
200 Clicks to empty the pen.
$0.21: Price per click.
6: Touche clats sold every minute somewhere
in the world.
lotion, and foundationand the very first Touche 1: Number of shades available when the
clat was born. But it almost never left the kitchen product launched in 1992. It offered a barely
where shed made it. They didnt want to launch there pink tint.
it then, de Gunzburg says. About a year later, I got
put in charge of the cosmetics line, and I launched
12: Number of shades available today.
it myself. Heres to taking chargeand to clat. Touche clats new limited-edition
JESSICA CHIA anniversary packaging is available in
three shades at yslbeautyus.com.

60 ALLURE APRIL 2017


BE AUT Y REPORTER

CULT
Lip
Locked
OBJECT

Only Valentino could get us to dismember our favorite


lipstick. The ridiculously chic little purse every model
on the Valentino spring runway had slung across her
shoulder? Its actually a lipstick holder. The case can
fit most bullets, with one catch: You have to pop it
(or chop it) out of its original packaging first. Then you
slide it into that tube on top. If thats all too much
math, skip it. Youll still have the chicest mirror around.

Valentino Garavani lipstick


holder and compact,
$1,045, at Valentino
stores. Lipstick bullets
about half an inch
in diameter, like the
Este Edit Mattified
Lipstick (shown in ABT
Last Night), are a perfect fit.
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
Frame
CULT OBJECT

Fashion Notes
Work
Yes, sometimes rose-colored
glasses can get you in trouble. But
if those glasses happen to be
big, bold, and bedazzled, well, Gucci sunglasses, $1,310
youll excuse our optimism. (gucci.com). Jane Post
PHOTOGRAPHED BY NADYA WASYLKO polyurethane jacket, $325
(nordstrom.com). Dior
Addict Lip Glow in Berry by
Dior. Hair: Romina Manenti.
Makeup: Sam Addington.
Manicure: Holly Falcone.
Model: Lynn Palm. Fashion
editor: Nicole Chapoteau.

APRIL 2017 ALLURE 65


NOTES: EDITORS OBSESSIONS

ALEXIS FENDI NYLON TOP. I like the


BITTAR unexpected pairing of bright
EARRINGS. red with olive. $850, at Fendi,
These remind N.Y.C. (212-897-2244).
me of army
badges. $945
(alexisbittar
.com).

Tibi
Spring 2017

Soldier JOHANNA ORTIZ

On
SILK SKIRT. Ruffles
liven up a serious-
looking skirt with
movement. $1,150
(johannaortiz.com).

Allure accessories director


Nicole Chapoteau loves
military-inspired looks that

JEREMY ALLEN (CHAPOTEAU); LUCA TOMBOLINI/VOGUERUNWAY.COM (RUNWAY); LIAM GOODMAN (STILL LIFES).
are anything but uniform.

BOTTEGA VENETA
LEATHER SANDALS. Easy,
gold, pretty much perfect.
$620 (800-845-6790).

MIU MIU GLASSES.


I love the hybrid
shape: Part air force
Runway tktkt
aviator, part sexy
Tksort 2017
cat eye. $320, at
LensCrafters stores.

EDDIE BORGO BAG.


The leather-denim-and-
linen patchwork makes
this sturdier than other
bucket bags. $1,050
(editorialist.com).

KENZO COTTON
DRESS. My kind
of uniform. GLOSSIER STRETCH
$1,175 (kenzo.com). CONCEALER. The
formula has moisturizing
oils and doesnt cake.
$18 (glossier.com).
NOTES: EXTRAS

Rainbow
Connection
One color is great. Two colors
are better. But a rainbow is a
partyand everyone is invited.
Celebrate the whole spectrum
with sassy, strappy sandals best
worn with unapologetic pride.

FROM TOP: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; NADYA WASYLKO

From left: Christian Louboutin suede sandals, price available upon request (christianlouboutin.com). Tabitha Simmons suede-and-leather
sandals, $845, at Bergdorf Goodman, N.Y.C. (212-753-7300). Casadei leather sandals, $990 (casadei.com). Etro suede sandals,
$695, at Etro stores. Red Valentino silk skirt, $895, at Red Valentino stores. Marc Jacobs suede skirt, $995, at Marc Jacobs stores.
Top right: Sally Hansen Color Therapy nail polish in Ohm My Magenta.

70 ALLURE APRIL 2017


NOTES: EXTRAS

Style icon Alicia Keys shows


us the best way to wear
sculptural earrings: with a
graphic head scarf and
luminous skin. Bikini top by
Alexander Wang. Top by
Max Mara. Earring by Paula
Mendoza Jewelry and Esteban
Cortazar. Head scarves,
Keyss own. Clockwise from
top: Isabel Marant earrings,
$370, at Isabel Marant, San
Francisco (415-781-0113).
Prabal Gurung earrings,
prices available upon request
(sales@prabalgurung.com).
Annie Costello Brown
earrings, $219 (anniecostello
brown.com). Tanya Taylor
earrings, $250 (tanyataylor
.com). Hair: Esther Langham.
Makeup: Dotti. Fashion
stylist: Patrick Mackie. Details,
see Shopping Guide.

PLAYING
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
PAOLA KUDACKI

ANGLES If Euclid had dabbled in jewelry


instead of geometry, the result
would have been
these stunners
each a design of
harmonious
proportions.
LIAM GOODMAN (STILL LIFES)

72 ALLURE APRIL 2017


NOTES

ELEMENTS of
Lipa performing
at a festival in
Berlin in 2016

STYLE
Prabal
Gurung
Spring
2017

Givenchy
Spring
2017

I LOVE THESE BOOTS


WITH THE DRESS.
I THOUGHT, JUST GO FOR
IT: FULL GLITTER!

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JEROME CORPUZ


FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

A SLIP DRESS, DUA LIPAS WAY


OK, so Lipa was still wearing diapers in the 90s,
but nowadays the 21-year-old pop singer takes
her style cues from vintage Kate Moss. Case in
point: the sexy, slinky slip dress that Lipa was born
(at least in time for its second life) to wear. Now,
with her debut album coming out this June, all she
needs is an afterparty. AMBER ANGELLE
Above: Lam dress by Cynthia Rowley. Embellished boots
Naomi by Giamba. Silver earrings by Pamela Love. Necklace by
Campbell and Third Crown. Silver rings by Agmes and Lipas own. Hair: Elsa
Kate Moss in Canedo. Makeup: Aya Komatsu. Fashion editor: Rachael Topshop
London in 1999 Wang. Details, see Shopping Guide. Unique
Spring
Dua Lipa shares her beauty routine and more at allure.com/dua-lipa. 2017
NOTES: EDITORS OBSESSIONS

MERCEDES CASTILLO 100% PURE CONCEALER.


LEATHER-AND-COTTON BAG. Brightening and all-natural. $25
Fun, playful, and reminds (100percentpure.com).
me of a picnic basket. $950
(mercedescastillo.com).

J. W. Anderson
Spring 2017

Here Comes
BLOOD ORANGE, FREETOWN SOUND.
A very personal, socially relevant
album. $9.99, on iTunes.

the Sun Allures fashion


director,
Rachael Wang, CLINE LEATHER
is warming up SHOES. This
shape is so groovy.
to radiant shades $840, at Cline,
of yellow, citrine, Beverly Hills
and marigold. (310-888-0120).

CARMEN MARCH SILK TOP.


FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

I love a dramatic ruffle.


PRADA CHIFFON $2,200 (net-a-porter.com).
SKIRT. A skirt
with personality.
$1,390, at select
Prada stores.

TOMMY X GIGI BIKINI


MILK MAKEUP BOTTOM. A striped bikini plus
SUNSHINE OIL. The an embroidered top equals
name says it all. $38 my vacation look. $119.50 for
(milkmakeup.com). top and bottom (tommy.com).
THE HAIR PRO

Cant Take
THE HEAT By Chris McMillan
A few days before the Golden
Globes, Michelle Williams had
an official nominees luncheon
to go to. I met her at her hotel,
worked a little sumpin sumpin
into her damp hair, then grabbed
a cup of coffee while she got her
makeup done. When I came back to finish her
hair, it was already finished. No blow-dryer.
No flatiron. Her hair looked greatand
it looked like her hair, not overly styled. And
these days, Jennifer Aniston often tells me
that she cant deal with blowing out her hair,
so she just puts styling lotion in itand she
loves it. The next day she loves it even more.
My point is: The hotter the days getand
the hotter the planet getsthe less anyone
is going to want to deal with heat styling.
And products today are so insanely
advanced, you really dont need to.

1 2
Consider your hair type (and color). Start with a conditioning cream, like Living Proof Perfect Hair
Generally speaking, if your hair is fine Day 5-in-1 Styling Treatment [McMillan works with the brand]
and straight, use less product. If your hair or R + Co High Dive Moisture + Shine Crme. Put a dime-size
is thicker or dark, it can handle more. amount in your palm, rub your hands together, and pull them
Dark hair tends to read as solid, so the through your hair while its still damp. Really get in there so the
more texture, the better. If dark hair is too hair is well coated. Once its dry, get out your beach spray
uniform, it can look like Lego-person Sachajuan Ocean Mist is my favorite. The key is to spray it on your
hair. And the genius of the right products hands, not your hair: Scrunch your ends up and boom: surfer texture. You
(i.e., the ones Im suggesting here) is can also try a fun hairstylists trick: Mix conditioning cream and salt spray
that whatever your hair type, you can in your hands and work them through damp hair to approximate
layer them. They play well together. noncrunchy beach waves. (And since air-drying isnt so great for calming
frizz, prep with a rich conditioner, like Living Proof No Frizz, in the shower.)

3 4
FRANK TERRY (MCMILLAN); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFES)

Beach sprays can be If youre digging


a little drying, so you your hair, youll
might want to bring love it even more
shine back to make your the next day.
hair look healthy. A Thats where dry
good shine serum, like shampoo comes in.
Sachajuan Shine Serum My favorite is Oribe
or R + Co Tinsel Smoothing Oil, Gold Lust Dry Shampoo.
is usually my last stepor, if It gives the hair that awesomely
someone has great natural texture, sexy tousled look. The bottle
its my only step. Use a few drops will tell you to spray it 6 to 12
to cover your palms and run them inches away from your head, but
over the outer layer of your hair. I get right in there so I have
If it takes more than 20 seconds, more control: Spray it an inch
youre working too hard. I did this from the roots. (I have to do this
on Michelle Williams for the Golden on celebrities because if I spray
Globes, and I do it on Sarah it in the air, it gets in their eyes,
Jessica Parker and Zoey Deutch and no one wants red, teary eyes
every time we work together. on the red carpet.)
SKIN SECRETS

The
NEW
Beautiful-Skin
Rules
The most promising new research
TOM SCHIRMACHER/AUGUST

is blazing trails, blowing minds


and changing the face of skin care.
By Lexi Novak

APRIL 2017 ALLURE 85


SKIN SECRETS

UP YOUR
CHOLESTEROL.
It may not be the sexiest of anti-aging
ingredients, but dermatologists are realizing
that cholesterola component of the
material holding our skin cells togetheris
one of the most important ingredients to look
PICK UP
for in a moisturizer (especially by age 40, when THE PACE.
levels can plummet as much as 40 percent). Were not throwing shade at
Its most effective when combined with fatty walking or lifting weights
acids and ceramides, which also help hold skin they beat sitting on the
cells firmly in place so your skin looks smoother couchbut if you want
and more radiant. Find the trio in Elizabeth smoother, fresher-looking
Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth skin, you need to get your heart
Restoring Serum and SkinCeuticals Triple rate up. In one study, people ages 20 to 86
Lipid Restore 2:4:2. But no one is suggesting who exercised at a high intensity (running,
you need to start eating butter by the stick: cycling, whatever youre into) for four or more
Theres no evidence that ingesting more hours a week for at least ten years had thinner
cholesterol will do anything for the skin, says stratum corneum layers and more energetic
Jordana Herschthal, a dermatologist in mitochondrial cells than participants who
Boca Raton, Florida. didnt regularly work out. In plain English:
Their skin appeared and acted younger. And
its never too late to reverse course. Even
SCALE BACK ON previously sedentary 65- to 86-year-olds
EXFOLIATING. who began moderate aerobic exercise for 45

4
Were learning that we have to respect minutes twice a week had a change in their
the pH of the skin and its healthy bacteria, skinsigns of aging began to reverse
says Whitney Bowe, a dermatologist in on a molecular level after just three months.
New York City. Physical exfoliators,
like loofahs and gritty scrubs,
remove good bacteria from the skin and throw
off its pH. That can trigger rosacea or eczema
flare-ups and boost enzymes that destroy
collagen and cause wrinkles and sagging over TAKE YOUR
time. Yikes. The good news: Mild chemical peels SUPPLEMENTS.
can have the opposite effect. Most peels are Crash course in peptides:
acidic and can benefit the skin by encouraging Theyre amino acid chains
growth of healthy bacteria, says Bowe, who likes that build collagen in the skin.
those with salicylic, glycolic, or lactic acid and And an eye product with peptides (like one of
suggests weekly or twice-weekly use. Try the our favorites, Olay Eyes Ultimate Eye Cream)
peel on a small patch of skin, like the jaw; if it is an effective way to smooth lines and soften
creates a mild tingling, its gentle enough to use. crows-feet. But now it turns out that you can
We like Philosophy The Microdelivery Peel. and probably shouldbe eating peptides, too.
Theyre one of the few skin-care ingredients
that work both topically and internally. In a
study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology,
women who popped a 2,500-milligram Verisol
collagen peptide supplement (you can buy
them at health-food stores) daily for eight
weeks had a 20 percent reduction in
eye-wrinkle volume, a 65 percent
increase of procollagen type I, and
an 18 percent increase in elastin.
And all that is a fancy way of saying:
noticeably smoother-looking skin
around the eyes. Similar results were
measured in another study on a
collagen-peptide drink.
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

From left: Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily


Youth Restoring Serum, SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore
2:4:2, ReFa S Carat roller, Olay Eyes Ultimate Eye Cream, and
Colorescience Even Up Clinical Pigment Perfector SPF 50
MIX IT UP.
Theres no rule that says you have
to use one product on your entire
face. In fact, the new thinking is
that you shouldnt. I have patients
who use retinoids only on their
cheeks and forehead and prescription
Soolantra on their chin, where theyre
prone to rosacea, says Dendy Engelman, a
dermatologist in New York City. Another combo
she recommends: Thick creams around the
delicate eye area and on the lips, and salicylic
acid or glycolic acid products on the T-zone to
minimize breakouts (try Paulas Choice Skin
Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant). Use anti-
redness products only across the bridge of the
nose, on the cheeks, and on the chin to soothe
areas prone to flushing. (Engelman likes the
Eau Thermale Avne Antirougeurs and Aveeno
Ultra-Calming lines.)

GET TO THE POINT.


When the bones in your face
shrink with ageyes, it happens
it contributes to sagging and a
generally flat appearance, says Ava
Shamban, a dermatologist in Beverly
Hills. Dermatologists have long turned
to hyaluronic acid fillers to make the face
look fuller, but inject too much of them in
the wrong places and suddenly its hello, weird
blowfish face. Now dermatologists are learning
that injecting hyaluronic acid deeperonto the
top layer of bone, instead of in wrinklesseems
to reverse some of the bone shrinkage. For
chins, if you inject on the top layer of bone,
HOLD OFF ON youre stimulating stem cells and actually getting
HOT YOGA. chin augmentation over time, says Shamban,
We used to think UV rays were the adding that the technique appears to work for
main culprit for melasma, but data is the cheekbones and jawbone, as well.
also indicating that visible light and
heat may cause dark patches, too,
says Doris Day, a clinical associate
professor of dermatology at NYU
Langone Medical Center in New York SLATHER SPF ON
City. This means that Bikramor standing WRINKLES.
over a hot stovecan create inflammation Its an even better anti-ager than
and exacerbate hyperpigmentation. The risk for we thought. A study published
melasma is increased for anyone with a job where in Dermatologic Surgery (and
theyre exposed to constant heat, like bakers, sponsored by the Johnson &
says Herschthal. In addition to using sunscreen, Johnson Skin Research Center) found that when
she recommends incorporating a product that people applied a moisturizer with SPF 30 daily
regulates skin temperature into your routine to for a year without any other anti-aging products
TOM SCHIRMACHER/AUGUST

minimize the damage; she likes Colorescience (in other words: zero, nada, nothing else), they
Even Up Clinical Pigment Perfector SPF 50, ended up with clinically measured improvement
which has a marine extract called venuceane. in mottled skin tone (by 52 percent), texture (by
Its one of the few ingredients that keeps skin 40 percent), and clarity (by 41 percent). And the
cool for an extended period of time, says self-reported results were even stronger, which
Herschthal. (Studies suggest that applying it means those numbers translated to younger-
twice daily regulates skin temperature.) We looking skin. Its some of the best evidence yet
also like running the metal ReFa S Carat roller that sunscreen doesnt just prevent aging; it
over skin for a temporary cooling effect. may actually reverse it.

APRIL 2017 ALLURE 87


Beauty
Passport NEWS, TREATMENTS,
AND OUR LATEST
OBSESSIONS FROM
ABROAD

AN
AMERICAN
ARKAN ZAKHAROV/CONTOUR STYLE/GETTY IMAGES

IN PARIS
Far from the Arc de Triomphe
and miles off the Champs-lyses,
Jessica Chia discovers Pariss
best-kept beauty secrets.
Parisian
indulgence comes
in many forms.

90 ALLURE APRIL 2017


B E AU T Y PAS S P O RT

T
Think its pretty from the
ground? Theres a
champagne bar at the top. ake it to a pharmacist. Five words
that I had been assured would make
me French. Or at least give me a
French complexion. I had only been in
Paris for three days, and I had already
been given a piece of paper by a
local facialist along with this directive.
Which is what landed me in this pharmacie in
the 2nd arrondissement handing the now-rumpled
piece of paper to the woman behind the counter.
She nodded. I nodded back. (I had no idea why
I was nodding, but it felt like the thing to do.) She
disappeared into the back and re-emerged
with a box. Granions de Manganse. French for
30 Ampoules of Magnesium That Will Give You
the Most Amazing Skin of Your Life, Self-
Acceptance, and Very Likely, Even a Raise and
Maybe a Corner Office.
Is it possible that the key to that elusive quality
known as French beauty was hidden in an
ampoule? In a word: non. See, I was in Paris, at
least partly, to discover real French beauty, not the
kind that you can order on Amazon Prime, and
while the ampoules were enticing, French beauty
is more involved than anyone wants to admit.
I was after the vials and jars, the treatments and
fragrances, that rarely make it inside our borders,

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ARKAN ZAKHAROV/CONTOUR STYLE/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF DELPHINE COURTEILLE; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
that French women protect as fiercely as the
recipe for a perfect croque monsieur. Just being
in a pharmacie, the kind you spell with an ie,
made me feel closer to unlocking that secret.

Hidden I interviewed cool Parisians, like makeup artist


Violette and jewelry designer Annelise Michelson.
I copied the style of women like actress Clmence
Gems Posy and street-style star Jeanne Damasdown
to the ankle booties. And there I was, next to chic
Facial: JOLLE CIOCCO
Walk out with parfait skinand
FRENCH Parisians, as they picked up, oui, cheap plastic
compacts. In the end, my ampoules didnt get me
a personalized French skin-care BEAUTY a raise or a corner office, but I did learn a few
routine. Mine included toning
lotions and those Granions de
IS MORE things about French beautyand it turns out its
not nearly as elusive as they want us to think.
Manganse ampoules youll have to INVOLVED
ask for by name at a French THAN
pharmacy. Joelle-ciocco.com
Massage: LATELIER CCILE
ANYONE
COTTEN WANTS
French makeup artist Violette, and
others in the know, head to this
TO ADMIT.
Lancme
Marais massage spot for a session
LAbsolu Rouge
with Cotten. They dont have a
Lipcolor in
website; call for an appointment. Caprice
33-6-80-08-86-77
Makeup: PARIS BERLIN
The sign in the window says
professionals only. Ignore it and
head inside to sift through a
rainbow of professional-grade
glitter (the stuff looks like craft
glue, but you paint it on lids and
lips). Plus, the stores own line
of concealers and eye shadows
is worth the tripthere are
scores of shades to choose from. Hairstylist Delphine
Parisberlin.com Courteilles salon,
Le Studio 34

94 ALLURE APRIL 2017


ADVERTISEMENT

RETOUCHING
IN
REAL LIFE
1 KIT. 3 STEPS.
Confused about color correcting? Dont stress.
With Maybelline Master Camo Color
Correcting Kit, you can get sele-ready
in 3 simple steps!
B E AU T Y PAS S P O RT

Candles at Jovoy Parfums Rares

Skin care: PHARMACIE (ANY)


Stop in at one of these green-lit storefronts for gentle
cleansers, micellar watersand an overwhelming
selection of rich French creams.
Fragrance: JOVOY PARFUMS RARES
If you dont mind setting aside a few hundred euro for this
stop, you can buy a new signature parfumlike a delicate
rose or an edgy leatherthat no one at home will have.
Jovoyparis.com
Hair: CHRISTOPHE ROBIN SALON AND LE STUDIO 34
Visit colorist Christophe Robins salon for sunny highlights

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ARKAN ZAKHAROV/CONTOUR STYLE; MELANIE LANDSMAN; RON KOEBERER/GETTY IMAGES
a sink away from model Natalia Vodianova. See hairstylist
Delphine Courteille at Le Studio 34 for choppy, brow-
skimming French-girl bangs like Damas has (go Google
Image her, but be forewarned that youll want to
book an appointmentand a plane ticketon the spot).
Christophe-robin.com and delphinecourteille.com
The Tuileries Garden
Nails: COLORFOREVER OBERKAMPF
When you schedule an appointment at Oberkampf, follow

Fine Dining
Michelsons guidelines for fitting in. No nail art or
embellishments, no crazy nail shapes. Just a wash of color
on short, round nails. Colorforever.com
Dinner: LE MARY CELESTE AND
Workout: LE KLAY
HTEL COSTES
Its not immediately apparent, amid the low tables and
Perch on a stool at Mary Celestes velvet couches in the members-only lounge, that this
circular bar for a savory and sweet is actually a gym. Wear yoga pants and a slouchy top, and
squash salad and the perfect vantage chat with a workout buddy between sets or while on
point for people-watching. Make the treadmill. Klay.fr
a reservation at Htel Costes if youd
rather spy visiting celebrities: Drink: LE WOOD
Bella Hadid in the far corner, model If you happened to befriend a Parisian news anchor
Liu Wen and friends to your left. and criminal lawyer, they would invite you for a weekday
Quixotic-projects.com/venue/ nightcap here. And you would find it exactly like your
mary-celeste and hotelcostes.com mixology bar at home, only much more charming in French.
1 Place de Thorigny, 33-1-42-71-39-08
Breakfast: CLAUS PARIS
If youre really attempting Parisian- Snack: CARETTE
ness, order exactly this: un pain au Head here to top up if its been more than a few hours
chocolat et un caf crme. If your since youve had a buttery carbohydrate. No one is
stomach can no longer be satisfied allergic to gluten here, Michelson says, wryly.
with a sole croissant for breakfast, eat Carette-paris.fr
at the sit-down restaurant, where the Shop: LA MODE VINTAGE AND THE AZZEDINE ALAA
fruit-topped muffins and thick slices SECRET OUTLET
of bread piled with egg and cheese Browse the former for vintage Yves Saint Laurent and
will satisfy your Instagram followers Courrges, then tell your cab driver to take you to 18 Rue
and your hunger in equal measure. de la Verrerie so you can say you know the best place
Clausparis.com to buy Alaa. La-mode-vintage.com

98 ALLURE APRIL 2017


PHENOMENON

The
Low-Maintenance
LOW MAINTENANCE
used to mean, well, just that.
MYTH
Now theres a new breed of
low-maintenance woman.
And SURE, she can say it
only takes her A FEW
MINUTES to get readybut
thats not counting the
standing appointments, the
LASER RESURFACING,
the LASH EXTENSIONS,
and the KERATIN
TREATMENTS. Liana
Schaffner explores the
new phenomenon of bare-

T
faced, air-dried, yet still
IMPECCABLE beauty.

he goal of waking up
and looking flawless
is so elusive, theres
a fairy tale devoted to it.
In Sleeping Beauty,
a princess emerges from
a century of slumber,
exuding so much loveliness that a
total stranger falls in love with her
MILES ALDRIDGE/TRUNK ARCHIVE

on the spot. Its a dreamy story that


doesnt quite square with reality.
Frankly, wed rather not imagine the
state of our eyebrows after 100
hours of neglect, much less years. The key to pulling off taut,
glow-y, preternaturally beautiful
skin is partly about pretending
you havent done a damn thing.

102 ALLURE APRIL 2017


PHENOMENON

VALUE
And how do you project an aura of
sweet repose when youre rocking a

JUDGMENTS
stress-induced zit? (Or two. Fine,
three.) Throw in the fact that most
women would honestly prefer an
uninterrupted nap to an unsolicited
kiss and this classic fantasy starts to
veer into parody. That said, our
The low-maintenance illusion doesnt
present-day notions of effortless come cheap. Heres what itll cost you,
beauty provoke satire, too. Amy
Schumers viral skit Girl, You Dont
on average, in both time and money.
Need Makeup hilariously insists
that all we need to look beautiful in

$650- $1,600
BONDED HAIR EXTENSIONS
the morning is our inner natural
Wefts of human hair fused to your
glowplus tons of product. And
own using heat or vibration
shortly after Beyonc declared,
Takes: One to three hours
I woke up like this in her feminist

A
Lasts for: Three to four months
anthem Flawless, Lena Dunham

$1,062
suggested that the song referred
to an impressive case of bed head. NONABLATIVE LASER RESURFACING
Around-the-clock perfection has (like Clear + Brilliant)
always been regarded as a castle Lasers that smooth skin and even tone
in the air. Takes: 25 minutes
Lasts for: Two to six months

$35
Until now.

GEL MANICURE
Polish whose molecules form
polymers under UV or LED light
for a chip-proof finish
Takes: One hour
Lasts for: Up to two weeks

growing number of women are

$60- $500
investing in pricey beauty LASH EXTENSIONS
treatments that allow them to roll False lashes glued (one by one)

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: TODD HUFFMAN; COURTESY OF PAINTBOX; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (3)
out of bed and breeze through their on top of your own
morning routines. The approach Takes: 90 to 120 minutes
requires regular visits to salons and Lasts for: One to two months
doctors officesbut it does
eliminate the daily tasks of penciling
in brows, extending lashes, styling

$450- $1,200
MICROBLADING
hair, painting nails, and breathing
Tiny needles used to tattoo individual
fresh life into dull complexions. For
insight into whats driving this trend, hair strokes onto brows
just consider that exhaustive list. Takes: Two hours

$350
In the grip of a tight schedule, Lasts for: 12 to 18 months
its easy to interpret any service that
ultimately saves time and energy
as a necessity rather than a luxury. KERATIN TREATMENT
Thats why these treatments, A chemical process involving
once reserved for celebrities and heatand sometimes
special occasions, are becoming formaldehyde (a known
mainstream affairs. Even women carcinogen)that smooths hair
who dont earn exorbitant salaries Takes: Up to four hours
or have tons of disposable cash are Lasts for: Two to five months
committing to them, prioritizing
convenience over cost. Theres the

$15- $35
full-time babysitter who invests
in weekly blowouts, the executive BROW AND LASH TINTING
Vegetable dye that darkens hair
by a shade or two
Takes: Less than 15 minutes
Lasts for: Two to four weeks

104 ALLURE APRIL 2017


PHENOMENON ADVERTISEMENT

assistant who throws down for gel


manicures, and the makeup artist who
prefers intermittent laser treatments
to the daily task of applying
concealer. One such laser, the Clear +
Brilliant, is a gentle, low-energy Fraxel quickly shedding their cheesy, Real
that visibly improves tone and texture Housewives of Wherever reputations
by creating microscopic wounds in favor of a natural-looking aesthetic.
in the skin that spur new collagen The vast majority of clients seeking
growth. At several hundred dollars a lash extensions, for example,
session, its a costly way to capture arent interested in the mile-long,
a glow but worth it to some. I cant slightly cartoonish fringe worn by,
tell you how much it has changed my say, the Kardashians. And the same
life, says Maria Maio, a makeup artist rolled-back attitude applies to hair
in New York City who decided to try extensions. Women just want
the Clear + Brilliant as an alternative to wear their hair down and not have
to artfully perfecting her problem stringy ends, says Lauren Mae
skin each morning. Now, Maio says, Haggard, an extension expert in San
shes out the door after a casual swirl Francisco who seldom gets requests
of mineral powder. for waves that ripple past the waist.
Another time-strapped Its this new emphasis on restraint
demographic fueling this offhand that can make even more intensive
movement? Anyone who is charged cosmetic procedures, such as
with keeping another human aliveor semipermanent makeup, feel less
is about to be. We get lots of calls intimidating and almost commonplace.
from pregnant women nearing their Microblading, a technique used to
due dates, says Tirzah Shirai, the fill in scanty eyebrows, is a nuanced
founder of Blinkbar in Los Angeles, and friendlier version of a tattoo.
which specializes in lash extensions. It involves a group of extremely fine

We get lots of calls from


pregnant women.... They
want their lashes done
before they go into labor.
They want their lashes done before needles that form a blade. That
they go into labor. Considering the blade deposits pigment in the dermal
labor-intensive nature of lash layer of skin so itll stay for 12 to 18
extensions themselves, theres monthswhich equates to a year of
built-in irony to this phenomenon. not having to pencil in your brows.
The entire process involves bonding While were sure there must be
individual hairs to the lash line and some psychological benefit to
requires 90 (or more) minutes of pure skipping past the mirror instead of
physical stillness to complete. But the fixating on it each morning, fans
surreal, fluttery results last up to eight of these treatments may still be in for
weeks and deliver more length and a rude awakening. Nonstop beauty
fullness than several coats of tends to backfire when we get a little
mascara. For women who expect to too accustomed to it. Once that
be deprived of sleep, investing in an glow-y, showy image starts to fade
instant wide-awake look simply after a week, or a month, or a year, Shop online for an unparalleled
amounts to good foresight. we could end up more dissatisfied vintage photography collection.
But theres more than pragmatics with our appearance than ever. Exquisitely printed and framed.
at play here. Somewhere, embedded Its possible we all need the
in our deep thinking like the thorn occasional imperfection to keep us
of a rose or a magic bean (choose down to earth and rooted in reality.
your preferred fairy-tale reference), is ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY DEANNA PAI CondeNastCollection.com
the undeniable appeal of effortless
beauty and the wish to obtain
it. Thats why these treatments are
Images Cond Nast Archive.
All Right Reserved.
106 ALLURE APRIL 2017
MASTER PLAN

MONDAY
Rethink your cleanser. A face
wash that tingles may feel
refreshing, but its probably not
doing much for your skins
dewiness. Switch to a creamy
formula that contains a humectant,
like glycerin (in Dior Hydra Life
Lotion to Foam Fresh Cleanser,
below). If youre in a rush, reach for
a cotton pad soaked in micellar
water; itll wipe away dirt without
causing dryness. Try the formulas
from Simple and Garnier.

TUESDAY
Toss your grainy scrub. It may get
rid of rough patches temporarily,
but itll make your skin even drier

SEE the
and flakier in the long run, says
Joshua Zeichner, the director of
cosmetic and clinical research in
dermatology at Mount Sinai
Hospital in New York City.
Instead, pick up a sugar-based CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: OLIVIA FROLICH; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (2)
version, such as Ole

LIGHT
Henriksen Moment of Truth
2-in-1 Polishing Sugar
Mask (above). It dissolves
as you massage it in,
making it a very gentle
option. Also, consider an
alpha hydroxy acid peel
to clean out pores and
stimulate the enzymes
responsible for cell
turnover. Lancmes new
Glowing skin isnt just for people too Visionnaire Crescendo
young to vote or the cheaters who drag the Progressive Night Peel is
brightness slider to the right. The key to a one-month peel system
that revs up from gentle
glowing skin is eating right, sleeping
fruit acids to more
well, and of course, seven days worth of intense glycolic acid. You
exactly the right skin care. By Lexi Novak can do it a couple of
times a year for a refresh.

110 ALLURE APRIL 2017


MASTER PLAN

LOral Paris True


Match Lumi Liquid
Glow Illuminator

WEDNESDAY
Face oils. Embrace them. As of today.
in (from top) Rose,
Golden, and Ice

They plump skin with hydration,


making it more radiant. Plus theyre,
you know, oils, so they leave a little
gleam of their own. And if you have
naturally oily skin, face oils actually
To make
help regulate sebum production so
youre more glow-y than greasy. Layer
your face
one (like Lumene Sisu Urban Antidotes
Recover & Protect Facial Oil) under
look like its
your regular moisturizer. For extra
credit, try makeup artist Tom
Pecheuxs trick: Dip your Illuminator) just along the GLOWING
foundation-covered brush in a
few drops of oil before
buffing it over the skin. It
cheekbones and jawline with her
palms. While youre dialing back,
dont rub a BB cream or tinted FROM
wont look like you have any
makeup on, he says.
moisturizer all over the place, either.
Focus on the temples, cheekbones,
and bridge of the nose. If certain WITHIN,
THURSDAY
Add retinol to your pre-bed
areas need extra coverage, use a
damp sponge to dab them with dab a peach
operation. If youve missed
the praise weve heaped on
concealer. And when youre done
with all that, treat yourself (and your
skin) to a coffee (or three): A recent
cream blush

this ingredient over the
past, oh, 26 years, well
study in the International Journal
of Dermatology found that women
across the
recap: Retinol increases
collagen production, firms
who drank an average of three cups
of coffee a day had significantly apples of your
skin, and evens out tone
and texture, which makes it
basically the best, most
fewer skin-dulling age spots than
those who drank the least. cheeks.
glow-inducing thing ever.
Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle SATURDAY
Now add a little color. To make your
Repair Regenerating Cream
works like a prescription retinoid but is face look like its glowing from within,
less likely to cause irritation. dab a peach cream blush across the
apples of your cheeks, then blend it

FRIDAY
Highlightwithin reason. People
along your cheekbones and tap
the excess from your fingers into the
crease in your upper lids, says
make the mistake of putting makeup artist Hung Vanngo. Dullness
illuminating powders or creams all may still creep in around 3 P.M.but
over their face, but that will make you dont double down on blush. Take a
look like a disco ball, says makeup few deep breaths, inhaling for five
artist Kate Lee. She presses a mildly counts and exhaling for seven. Youll
shimmery formula (we like LOral get oxygen flowing to bring color
Paris True Match Lumi Liquid Glow to your skin, says Ava Shamban, a
dermatologist in Los Angeles.

SUNDAY
Today you can chill. No, really.
Neutrogena
Rapid Wrinkle
Repair
If youre truly committed to the Regenerating
Cream
brightening cause, begin your days
(starting with this one) by running an
ice cube over your face (or at least
splashing it with cold water). The
temperature change will release
Lancme
heat-shock proteins, a cellular response
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (4)

Visionnaire that repairs and restores skin cells,


Crescendo says Shamban. A less masochistic
Progressive alternative: The new Dr. Jart+ Lover
Night Peel Rubber Masks are derived from
seaweed, which temporarily cools the
skin while driving hydrating and
brightening ingredients deeper into it.
H E A LT H

The
GreenScientists are just beginning to
understand the benefits of green
food, and what theyre learning
will surprise you. Now rethink that

Party
new juicer and listen up.
By Ramona Emerson

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.


H E A LT H

The other day,


my mother asked if we
should have waffles for breakfast,
and my response shocked even me:
What if we had a salad?
In the weeks since Allure asked me to
write about leafy greens, Ive changed.
more spinach, more
Once a kale agnostic, Im now a Devout
watercress. They lower the
Kale Orthodox. The kind of person who
risk of heart attack and stroke;
eats spinach for breakfast and offers
theyre linked to lower blood
unsolicited advice to strangers in line at
pressure; they keep the digestive
the salad bar: You know, romaine is
tract healthy; they help you see better;
actually healthier than arugula. (I know,
theyre protective against many
spoiler alert. Just sit tight for a minute.)
types of cancer; and they even play younger than those who didnt eat

ALL THE GOOD a role in combating mental decline.


Heres a gross oversimplification: They
greens. Of all of the different types of
vegetables, green leafy appear to be
THEYRE DOING have pretty much every nutrient our most related to protection against
The more I learned about leafy greens, bodies need, with the exception of cognitive decline, says Morris.
the more of them I ate, and the more protein and fat. But when I suggested So what is it about greens that
I ate, the more I wanted to eat. Its to registered dietitian Tanya Zuckerbrot makes them so good for you? It
a virtuous cycle, says Dean Ornish, the that I might go on an all-green diet, she probably has something to do with
president of the Preventive Medicine quickly set me straight: An average the tough life of a leaf. Think of the leaf
Research Institute in Sausalito, woman would have to eat 50 cups of as the engine of the plant: Its where
California. You feel so much better kale per day to get adequate calories. photosynthesis, the process of turning
so quickly that it becomes positive OK, so you shouldnt eat only greens, light into fuel for the plant, occurs.
reinforcement. While I cant say but they actually are a good source of Photosynthesis creates something
I felt physical changes immediately, one kind of fat: omega-3, which is called reactive oxygen species, which
the psychological benefits were associated with alleviating everything are turbocharged free radicals that
instantaneous. Nothing makes you feel from mood disorders to eczema. Fish wreak havoc in cells. To combat this
more superior than pulling out a is usually the go-to for this essential molecular chaos, leaves produce tons
Tupperware container of collard greens fatty acid, but omega-3s originally of antioxidants. Antioxidants put the
in front of your colleagues. I may have come from greens. Fish get them from brakes on those free radicals and keep
those electrons from bombarding
everything in the plants cells, says
Those who ate one to two servings Auriel A. Willette, an assistant professor
of leafy greens per day had the mental of food science and human nutrition at
Iowa State University. Antioxidants do
abilities of someone 11 years younger. the exact same thing in our bodies and
have been linked to all kinds of health
benefits, including protection against
become a zealot, but as cults go, the eating algae, which, as everyone cancer and heart disease. Some of the
cult of greens isnt a bad one to be in. knows, are the salad of the sea! most well studied are carotenoids,
(Although maybe every cult member One place where greens have been which our bodies convert to vitamin A.
feels this brand of righteousness?) shown to be more beneficial than other The amount of carotenoids correlates
It seems like every week theres vegetables or fruits is in the brain. to the amount of chlorophyll. So the
a new study telling us that a food Scientists are beginning to seriously more chlorophyll you have, the more
we thought was healthy is in fact the examine the effects of diet on brain carotenoids there are. This is why you
sole reason behind the decline of function. What theyre finding is great always hear that the darker green the
TRAVIS RATHBONE/TRUNK ARCHIVE

civilization. But think about the Leafies. news for anyone who thought cognitive vegetable, the more nutritious it is
Theres a reason youve never read a decline was due to unlucky genes. specifically, its richer in carotenoids.
disparaging word about them. Research When Martha Clare Morris, a nutritional Among other benefits, carotenoids have
has shown, over and over again, that epidemiologist at Rush University been found to accumulate in the eyes
theres practically no anatomical system Medical Center in Chicago, tracked the and prevent macular degeneration,
that doesnt benefit from more kale, eating habits and brain health of almost a leading cause of blindness. While kale
1,000 adults over five years, she found may have the best PR team in the flora
that those who ate one to two servings
of green leafy vegetables per day had
the mental abilities of someone 11 years

116 ALLURE APRIL 2017


H E A LT H

Tempting as it is, experts recommend


against drinking your greens.
kingdom, according to a 2014 study Zuckerbrot. Thats like taking two

FACE
conducted by the Centers for Disease pieces of Wonder Bread and pouring
Control and Prevention, its not even green juice on top. These juices
close to the healthiest green. In fact, will often advertise that they do not
its less nutrient-dense than romaine have added sugar, but of course,
lettuce. Are you done screaming pineapple or apple juice has plenty of

Plants
into the void? The researchers looked sugar on its own. If you must have
at how much of 17 different nutrients, your greens liquefied, doctors
including vitamins B, C, and K, were recommend smoothies way over
in a bunch of powerhouse foods. juices. I would rather have the whole
Then they ranked the foods in terms of vegetable blended as opposed to
nutrient density. The big winner was having a juice that is filtered, says We know that what you eat
watercress, which has an average of Eric Rimm, a professor at Harvards affects how you look. Studies
100 percent of the daily value of each T. H. Chan School of Public Health. have shown that diets that
nutrient per 100 grams. Spinach Not only are you losing much are high in antioxidants and
came in fifth with about 86 percent, of the fiber, but probably also some low in sugar and fat are
and poor kale was way down on the of the micronutrients and other associated with fewer wrinkles,
list with 49 percent. According to compounds. less sun-induced skin damage,
all the experts I spoke to, this doesnt and even reduced acne. But
mean we should shun kalethe GREEN what about bypassing the
study didnt measure nutrients like
carotenoids and flavonoids, in which SUPPLEMENTS whole eating part and rubbing
kale right on your face?
kale is particularly high. But we should This idea that the whole is greater Thats exactly what companies
cover our bases by eating a variety of than the sum of its parts is also like Bobbi Brown, Pacifica,
greens, since theyre basically all why green supplements are not and Youth to the People are
good for you. Even lowly iceberg recommended. There have been hoping youll do with their new
lettuce was ranked above almost several clinical trials testing leafy-green-infused serums,
every fruit on the list. The extreme supplements where they found that moisturizers, masks, and
complexity of food and how it affects even if you grind up watercress or cleansers. The companies
our bodies is why its hard to get a kale, supplements have either not claim that antioxidants found
simple answer on whether greens that much of an effect or no effect in kale, spinach, and Brussels
should be eaten cooked or raw. While at all, says Willette. In fact, green- sprouts will make your skin
cooking at low heat can break down food supplements might even be taut, glow-y, and generally
cell walls and make nutrients easier for bad for you. While lutein, a type of youthful. The bottom line from
the body to absorb, many nutrients, carotenoid, has been shown to slow dermatologists: Vitamin C
especially water-soluble ones, like the thickening of arteries, taking and vitamin E have been used
vitamin C, are lost during cooking. carotenoids in supplement form not in skin care forever. Whether
Theres no simple rule, says Morris. only doesnt reduce heart disease the nutrients come from kale
I recommend that people try both. but in some cases increases heart- or something else, they have
related complications. the same effect, says Elizabeth
JUICES VERSUS To bastardize Michael Pollan:
Eat greens, all kinds, cooked and
Hale, a clinical associate

SMOOTHIES raw. And since youre being so


professor of dermatology at
NYU Langone Medical Center in
Tempting as it is to occasionally drink virtuous, make it easy. I hate to cook New York City. What could
our meals, experts recommend and I love kale, so I eat a lot of kale potentially set these products
against drinking your greens. There salads. I also buy my greens apart is that they incorporate
are three basic problems with green prewashed and chopped. Yes, its the whole food instead of just
juice: First, many of the nutrients in more expensive, but for me its the using individual antioxidants
leafy greens, including vitamins A, D, difference between eating them synthesized in a lab. Its just
E, and K and carotenoids, are fat- and letting them wilt in the crisper like when you eat a whole
soluble, meaning they are absorbed drawer. The important thing is to get vegetable. You may be getting
much more efficiently if consumed greens into your body by any means more nutrients than we even
with fat, which green juice usually necessary, because most likely know about, says Mona
doesnt contain. Second, the fiber is we are only beginning to understand Gohara, a dermatologist at the
filtered out, so youre going to feel how good they are for us. Says Yale School of Medicine.
hungry again before you finish the Ornish: Study after study shows
bottle. Third, many contain fruit juice, that when people eat a plant-based
which ramps up the sugar content diet, they feel betterfast.
significantly. They might contain 30
to 45 grams of carbohydrates, says

118 ALLURE APRIL 2017


TEST DRIVE
The Neutrogena
Light Therapy
Acne Mask clears
up breakouts in as
little as one week.
Hair and makeup,
Mark Williamson;
manicure, Holly
Falcone. These
pages: Prop
stylist, JoJo Li.

TECH IT
UP A
NOTCH
Welcome to a new era of skin care: Devices that plug in, light up, spin
around, and possibly scare your dog (more on that in a second). We enlisted
real women and top dermatologists to flip on nine of the latest options
and report back on whether they make good on their line-smoothing, face-
firming, acne-banishing claims. By Katie Becker
PHOTOGRAPHED BY GRANT CORNETT
TEST DRIVE

THE FACE

WHEN MY IN-LAWS WERE VISITING, IT WAS AWKWARD.


THE THING SOUNDS LIKE A REALLY LOUD VIBRATOR.
THE ZIT ZAPPERS LIFTER
Tria Positively Clear 3-Step Acne Skincare Solution Clarisonic Smart Profile
The claim: This device ($149) shoots out blue LED lightskind of like Uplift Firming Massage Head
a flashlightthat kill acne-causing bacteria. Shine it over breakouts The claim: If you pop the
and breakout-prone spots for five minutes every day to shrink cleansing brush off of your
pimples and prevent new ones. Clarisonic Smart Profile device
The test drive: I started this two weeks before my period, and my and pop on this triangular,
skin stayed totally clear, says our tester, who gets hormonal rubbery attachment ($54), it will
breakouts. When I stopped using it, I started breaking out again. harness the devices vibrations
So (obviously) she turned the thing back on and her pimples went to help creams and serums
away a day or two faster than usual. Its painlessthe device penetrate and firm skin. You
heats up, but its not uncomfortably hotand easy to travel with. should use it for three minutes on
your face, neck, and dcolletage
The expert opinion: Studies show that this particular type of
twice a day for brighter skin
blue light destroys acne-causing bacteria and turns down the dial
(after 1 week) and a tightening
on sebum production so youre less oily, says Roy Geronemus,
effect (after 12).
a clinical professor of dermatology at NYU Langone Medical
Center. But, he notes, its not a fit for everyone: Its not helpful for The test drive: Right off the bat,
blackheads and whiteheads, nor for deep cystic acne. Its good our tester noticed a firmer jawline
for the little red bumps called papules and pustules, which are the for a few hours after each use.
most common forms of acne. Geronemus recommends using I would apply a rich moisturizer
the Tria along with prescription acne medications (like retinoids) first, which helped the applicator
or as a safe alternative for those who cant tolerate other glide along my skin without
treatments due to skin irritation and dryness or pregnancy. tugging, she says. Still, its
triangular shape meant it hugged
best along the jaw; the flatter
Neutrogena Light Therapy Acne Mask surfaces of the forehead
The claim: Wear this hockey-mask look-alike ($39.99) for ten minutes and cheeks were a bit harder to
daily and its blue and red LED lights will reduce breakouts in as little maneuver along. The main
as one week. downside? The thing sounds like
The test drive: I recently stopped birth control, and my skin started a really loud vibrator, she says.
getting oily and breaking out, says our tester. After using the When my in-laws were visiting,
mask for about a week or two, I definitely saw results. Not only did it was awkward. I felt like I
her acne clear, but shes been less oily, her pores seem smaller, had to give them a heads up
and her complexion has brightened up. They say you can keep your on exactly what I was doing
eyes open while you use it, but the lights were too intense for me. before I retired to the bedroom
I keep my eyes closed and listen to podcasts to pass the time. and turned it on.
The expert opinion: There are plenty of published papers showing The expert opinion: Facial
that blue and red lights effectively treat acne, says Neil Sadick, a massage is semi-legit.
clinical professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College in Mechanical stimulation can
New York City. The combo works by killing acne-causing bacteria increase muscle contraction and
(with the blue lights) and bringing down inflammation (with the red give a temporary lifting effect
lights). When hair follicles on the face become plugged, bacteria that lasts several hours, says
overgrows and enzymes are released that cause inflammation, Sadick. But thats about it.
Sadick explains. While hed like to see more research on this particular Massage has never been shown
device, he says its very safe, it wont hurt your eyes, and its OK for to increase penetration of skin
all skin types. Plan to use it for six to eight weeks to see full benefits. care, he says. Thats a myth.

LAYING IT ON THICK
Are you always cutting corners on your multipart layering routine? Well, theres a device for that.
Take a 20-question assessment and Nu Skin uses your answers to generate a customized, five-step
anti-aging regimen. But heres where it addresses your laziness: The regimen arrives in a preloaded
device, the AgeLoc Me ($480). The machineit looks like a sleek, high-tech soap dispenser and
is about a foot tallsits on your bathroom counter. With the press of a button, it delivers a single
predosed pump of all your recommended serums and creamsa full routine mixed into one dollop.
The results: hydrated skin and a pleasantly surprised sensitive-skinned tester. Just keep in mind
that if youre always running around, this system isnt remotely travel-friendly. KATHLEEN SUICO

122 ALLURE APRIL 2017


TEST DRIVE

THE
WRINKLE

OUR TESTER QUICKLY BECAME OBSESSED.... I STARTED GETTING A


SMOOTHER
Beauty Bioscience GloPro
The claim: Run a roller studded
with teeny-tiny needles (theyre
0.3 millimeters long) over your
skin three times a week and
lines will look smoother after
one month. The tool ($199) also
vibrates, which is supposed
to make the pinpricks feel less
creepy and uncomfortable.
The test drive: Once she got
over her initial intimidation,
our tester quickly became
obsessed. And then flattered.
After a week and a half,
I started getting a lot of
compliments on my skinI
heard that it was glowier
at least three times, she says.
It feels more springy and looks
plumper. And I think theres
been a decrease in wrinkles on
my forehead. Any pain was
minimal: It feels like an intense
facial scrub. In the hour after
treatment, however, her
skin did look red, so she uses Clockwise from
the roller only at night. left: Tria Positively
Clear 3-Step Acne
The expert opinion: Skincare Solution,
Microneedling has become Beauty Bioscience
popular among GloPro, and Michael
dermatologists, who love it Todd Beauty
Soniclear Petite.
for smoothing acne scars,
wrinkles, and stretch marks.
In the office, we use a device
LOT OF COMPLIMENTS.

with pins that go deeper


[than at-home devices], but
anything that causes small
wounds is helpful, says
THE POWER CLEANSER
Michael Todd Beauty Soniclear Petite
Sadick. Wounding triggers
The claim: This facial-cleansing brush ($89) uses a high-speed
skins repair functions, like
motor to oscillate (rather than spin) its nylon bristles to get your
producing new collagen to
skin squeaky clean. The brush head has unique antimicrobial
help smooth wrinkles. Most
bristles that prevent stain- and odor-causing bacteria.
people should see results in
three to four weeks. For safety, The test drive: Immediately after each use, our tester noticed
Sadick advises that you dont a brighter, softer complexion. I used the brush twice a week on
use this at-home roller over the the highest setting with a gentle cleanser, she says. It felt like
same area multiple times in a cell phone vibrating. After her first use, her cheeks were a little
one sitting or when your skin is tender, so moisturizer afterward is a must. As promised, the
irritated. And dont use an brush stays cleanno smell, no foundation buildup, no need to
exfoliant right afterward. Also, worry about breakouts.
we cannot stress this enough: The expert opinion: Vibrating brushes are always superior to
Clean the MicroTip Attachment scrubs or washcloths because the oscillations draw out oil, debris,
Head thoroughly with rubbing pollution, and dirt, rather than swirling it around on your skin,
alcohol after every use, and says Tina Alster, a clinical professor of dermatology at Georgetown
replace it every three months. University. And of course, the antimicrobial bristles are a plus.
TEST DRIVE

THE LIGHT [FROM THE GLASSES] IS REALLY BRIGHTWHEN I TURNED


From top: Dr. Dennis
Gross Skincare
SpectraLite EyeCare
Pro and Newa Skin
Care System.

GETTING
INTO EYE
GEAR
If you hate crows-feet
(or love RoboCop), man,
have we got news for you:
The new Dr. Dennis Gross
Skincare SpectraLite
EyeCare Pro ($159) shines
collagen-boosting red and
amber LED lights around
your eyes and between your
browsand makes you
look like a cyborg. We know
that red light can reduce
inflammation in the skin and

THEM ON, MY DOG RAN AWAY FROM ME.


kick-start the creation of new
collagen; amber light helps
skin rejuvenate, but not as
much as red, says Alster.
It should take about a
month or two to see crows-
feet and eleven lines begin
to reduce. The directions
say you can keep your eyes
open while wearing the
glasses, but our tester had to
find a different time to catch
up on The Crown. The
light is really brightwhen I
turned them on, my dog
ran away from me, she says.
THE SKIN TIGHTENER Another new gadget, Me
Bright ($129), is a small wand
Newa Skin Care System that emits red LEDs and
The claim: This handheld wand ($450) firms skin using radio frequency radio frequency. Shine it on
(a.k.a. controlled heat). Use it on wrinkles up to five times a week for four the skin around your eyes
minutes on each area that you want to targetit vibrates when its time to shut for three minutes, five
days a week, and after two
it off. Youll see fewer wrinkles (in a month) and firmer skin (in two months).
months you might see
The test drive: Immediately after every treatment, my skin looked smoother a modest amount of
and plumped up, our tester says. After four weeks, it felt firmer and looked skin tightening, says
smoother overallbut not Botox smooth. She found it wonderfully mindless Geronemus. (His assessment
to glide the device in circular motions around her face, which meant is in line with what the
she could easily use it while shooting off emails (albeit with one hand). company says you can
The electrodes just feel warm, she says. If 1 is room temperature and 10 expect.) Our tester noticed
is curling-iron hot, its a 4. her crows-feet softening
after about a month. But
The expert opinion: Radio-frequency energy is the gold standard to contract again, the device was too
collagen fibers and stimulate new collagen in a medical office, says Alster. bright for her to keep her
At-home radio-frequency devices use less energy, but if you stick with one, itll eyes open while using it.
deliver enough heat over time (at least two months of regular use) to rival
in-office skin-firming results. When I used it, I saw some immediate tightening,
though thats possibly from mild tissue swelling, says Alster. I think this is
really good for people with a small amount of laxity in the cheeks and jawline.

126 ALLURE APRIL 2017


Suit of
ARMOR
We smooth it with scrubs. We soften it with creams.
We dab it with highlighter. But our skin is so much more
than a reflection in the mirror. Our skin is the metaphor
that defines how were seenand how we see ourselves.
With that in mind, Allure asked 41 women of color to tell us
PATRICK DEMARCHELIER

the story of their lives through their skinand skin tone.


Because our skin can be both a vulnerability and a defense.
But most importantly, it can be a source of celebration.
Left, on Dilone: Swimsuit by Alix. Bracelet by Herv Van Der Straeten. Center, on Aamito Lagum: Swimsuit by Acacia Swimwear. Earrings
by Marni. Right, on Imaan Hammam: Swimsuit by Mikoh. Earrings by Loewe. Makeup colors, on all: The Falsies Push Up Angel Mascara,
Brow Precise Fiber Volumizer, and Shine Shot Glassy Shine Lip Topcoat by Maybelline New York. Details, see Shopping Guide.
The Beauty of

Forty-one
women of color
share stories
about diversity,
inclusion, and
the politics
of skin color
in beauty.
Reporting by Lindsy Van Gelder
and Elizabeth Siegel
Photographed by
Patrick Demarchelier
Left, on Dilone: Cotton
top and pants by Stella
McCartney. Earrings by
Georgina Trevino
Contemporary Jewelry and
Dilones own. Center, on
Imaan Hammam: Cotton top
and skirt by Sonia Rykiel.
Earrings by We Who Prey and
Hammams own. Right, on
Aamito Lagum: Cotton-blend
top by Isabel Marant. Cotton
pants by Stella McCartney.
Earring by Tibi. Makeup colors,
on all: Sourcil Styler brow gel in
3, Click & Glow Highlighting
Skin Fluid in Lumires dOr, and
Juicy Shaker in Piece of Cake
by Lancme. These pages:
Hair, Ward; makeup, Romy
Soleimani; manicure, Donna D.
Prop stylist: Cristina Forestieri.
Fashion stylist: Laura Ferrara.
Details, see Shopping Guide.
of my skin. It was only outside the
comforts of home that the world began
to challenge those ideals. I took an
BETHANN HARDISON,* African-American studies class at
Northwestern where we explored people there look like? And she said,
founder, Bethann They look like the show you watch, Full
colorism; it was the first time I could
Management Co. House. So I assumed that when I would
put a name to feeling too light in the
I arranged a town hall meeting in 2007. black community, too mixed in the arrive in Canada, I would turn into a
The room was packed. There were white community. For castings, I was white blonde. And I was horrified when
editors, stylists, model-agency owners labeled ethnically ambiguous. Was I I got to the airport and I was still brown.
and I sat in front of them and talked Latina? Sephardic? Exotic Caucasian? I just couldnt understand that different
about what I thought was inappropriate Add the freckles to the mix and it colors coexist. I think Ive come a long
behavior. [Models of color] were being created quite the conundrum. To this way from that nine-year-old girl who
told, Sorry, no blacks, no ethnics. day, my pet peeve is when my skin wanted to trade in her brown skin for
Newspapers started writing articles tone is changed and my freckles are white. I love what my brown skin looks
about Is there racism in fashion? And airbrushed out of a photo shoot. For all like and what it represents. And there
it changed. Im sorry, no blacks, no my freckle-faced friends out there, I will are many times Im fully unaware of my
ethnics has never been said again. share with you something my dad told skin. The perfect example is Im talking
me when I was younger: A face without to somebody, and they would look
at me and say, So how do they do that
PADMA LAKSHMI, freckles is a night without stars.
in India? I say, Im not sure. Im from
author, actress, and executive Pakistan. But I can Google it for you and
producer, Top Chef ZAZIE BEETZ, find out. That always creates such an
My skin is a map of my life. Before actress, Atlanta and Slice awkward moment, but I think awkward
high school, I lived in a white suburb My father is German; my mother is moments are not bad; they push us to
of Los Angeles where there were African-American. Growing up, I confront our prejudices. Uncomfortable
so few Indians that they didnt even visited my grandparents in Berlin a lot. as it is to hear Oh, you speak English
know the correct slurs. They called I would not see any other person of really good for a brown lady, it really
me the N-word or Blackie. For a long color for three weeks. People would tells me that people have these ideas
time I hated my skin color. Even in stare. They would say things like Oh, but theres no healthy space to ask
India, theres a complicated history. you look like chocolateI want to these things. We lack basic vocab
My grandmother discouraged us from eat you up! Ive been to gatherings about understanding our differences.
going in the sun; she didnt want us where people would say, She has so Now I love walking into a room and I
to be dark. We were only allowed to much race in her or would use the dont look like everyone else. I hope
play outside after 4:30. There was a word n*****or the German term that love for my skin Ive developed as
cosmetics line called Fair & Lovely neger. And I would be like, Who are an adult I can pass on to my kids.
that says it all. [And] when I started to you talking to? I feel German, I speak
work as a model, people would on German, [but] I dont look German.
BALANDA ATIS,
manager, LOrals
Global Women of Color Lab
[My daughter] told me that some boy and U.S. Liquid Face Lab
said she was white, not Indian, and Up until several years ago, the primary
target for most cosmetics companies
shouldnt wear a bindi. I told her to tell was the Caucasian consumer. But the
population has changed quite a bit,
him shes brown on the inside. and businesses have had to come up
with shades for people of medium to
dark skin. I was given the opportunity
occasion say things to me like Youre In the United States, if youre African- to measure skin tones. We noticed that
so pretty for being an Indian. I have a American, it can be assumed that your there was an area of violet in darker
seven-year-old daughter who is very family has been here for generations. skin tones that had not been
fair. Once she told me that some boy In Europe, colonialism is much more understood in the past. We ended up
said to her she was white, not Indian, alive and its assumed youre from incorporating ultramarine blue, which
and shouldnt wear a bindi. I told her Nigeria or Senegal. I would have these takes you deeper but not necessarily
to tell him shes brown on the inside. conversations like Where is your blacker. I like to say that theres a new
mother from? Brooklyn. No, but skin tone born every day.
where is she from? I would respond,
MEGHAN MARKLE, We dont know, since we cant trace
actress, Suits our roots beyond North Carolina.
SUSAN C. TAYLOR,
I have the most vivid memories of Slavery has erased our ability to find dermatologist and associate
being seven years old and my mom our origins. We have been here as professor of dermatology at
picking me up from my grandmothers long as some of the first immigrants. University of Pennsylvania
house. There were the three of us, Perelman School of Medicine
a family tree in an ombr of mocha
next to the caramel complexion of my HABIBA NOSHEEN, We still have a ways to go in terms of
skin care, which is mostly geared
mom and light-skinned, freckled me. journalist, The Fifth Estate
toward anti-aging. Women of color
I remember the sense of belonging, I was born in Pakistan, and when my have more melanin than Caucasian
having nothing to do with the color mother told me we were moving to
Canada, I asked her, What do the

*These interviews have been edited and condensed for space.


IMAAN HAMMAM,
model
Im half Moroccan, half Egyptian,
and I was born in Amsterdam.
Im Muslim, and Im superproud of
my heritage and of my roots. I
want to be a role model for young
girls who are struggling with racism
or struggling with their looks or with
their skin color. I had Naomi Campbell,
who I looked up to as a black powerful
woman. But there arent many Arabic
models, and being an African-
Arabic model, Im trying to open
doors for more Arabic girls.

Cotton nylon sweater by Zero +


Maria Cornejo. Bikini top and
bottom by Maryam Nassir Zadeh.
Earrings by J. W. Anderson.
Bracelet by Loewe. Makeup colors:
Healthy Skin Liquid Makeup in
Honey and Hydro Boost Hydrating
Lip Treatment by Neutrogena.
Details, see Shopping Guide.
women, which means we age later, Swimsuit by Acacia
and we age differently. We dont have Swimwear. Earrings
fine lines and wrinkles so much as by Marni. Makeup
colors: Brow Stylist
pigmentation; sagging rather than
Kabuki Blender in
crows-feet. I was very inspired by the
Brunette and
Black Power movement of the 70s. Voluminous Feline
Kathleen Cleaver and Angela Davis Noir Mascara in
with their Afros were so authentic! And Blackest Noir by LOral
today, you look at Obama, Michelle, Paris. Details, see
and the kids, and it makes me feel Shopping Guide.
proud. I think it took companies many
years to realize the economics of
meeting the needs of darker-skinned
women. Theres no escape from
America realizing that we are brown
now. We can only hope that everyone
realizes that were all Americans.

DASCHA POLANCO,
actress, Orange Is
the New Black
Its very difficult to get foundation that
matches my skin. And Im all for the
contouring stuff, but I like to look like
myself. I dont have a thin nose. You can
see my African features, so I like to
embrace these things as opposed to
covering them.

GRACE LEE,
Maybelline New York
makeup artist
I was born in Korea, but I came to
Canada when I was six months old. Im
Canadian. From the time I was six or
seven, I was obsessed with beauty. My
dolls had eyeliner and extra eyelashes.
I cut all my friends hair and did their
prom makeup. When I was at
university, I got a part-time job working
at a M.A.C. counter. One day I did this
womans makeup, and afterward she
said to me, You must be so proud of
yourselfyour English is superb! I was
speechless. The other thing growing
up was people asking me if I was
related to Bruce Lee. Is he the only
Asian person you know? More makeup
artists now know how to do Asian eyes.
The fake-crease thing drives me to
drink. Our eyes have monolidstheyre
flat! Why are you trying to make us look
like white people?

HEATHER
WOOLERY-LLOYD,
dermatologist and director
of Ethnic Skin Care at the
University of Miami Miller
School of Medicine
I was the only black child in nearly
every class from kindergarten
through college. I was very academic.
I cared about SAT scores. I was a
bookworm. I didnt develop any major
insecuritiesexcept about swimming.
at school featured white children
and an animal, or animals. Fresh Off
My hair! Swim parties were not a
the Boat is the first television show led
simple thing. I went to school with surpass limits given to me by others....
by [an] Asian-American [family] in
the model Niki Taylor. She was an Ive always known I have beautiful skin
over 20 years. Id always been in the
exceptionally kind person, and one because my dad has amazing skin and
supporting role, the best friend or
day when I had won some award, she I look like him. You know, diversity in
the assistant to the white person. And
congratulated me and told me how Hollywood is on its way to being
I was grateful. But once I was in
lucky I was. I remember thinking, embraced. But we still have a long
the lead role and other people started
You are on four magazine covers this way to go. I think theres something
making a big deal out of it, I realized
month, including the Seventeen that happened in which its become
I was previously blind to it.
magazine thats in my backpack. But cool to have darker skin.
I always had my identity as a student.
African-Americans are really
underrepresented in dermatology. I
JEANINE DOWNIE, TESSA THOMPSON,
felt this huge responsibility to learn dermatologist in Montclair, actress, Westworld and
everything there was to know about New Jersey Annihilation
women of color. Many black women African-Americans and Latinos lose I think about the civil rights
who are dealing with embarrassing elasticitywe sag where Caucasians movementyou couldnt organize
issues, like hair loss, do not want to wrinkle. People dont realize that [with] Twitter, Instagram, and text
come in and take off their wig for a skin of color needs sunscreen, and messaging. Now we have so much
doctor who isnt an African-American that gets on my last nerve. Bob Marley access to information [and] each
woman. During my residency, I died of melanoma! Skin cancer is other. Its a wonderful time for
specifically took advantage of underdiagnosed among people of women who [are] coming forth and
every opportunity to learn about
dermatologic conditions in skin
of color, because I knew when I
completed my training that patients Hollywood has an idea of what...
were going to seek my expertise.
Latina looks like, and I didnt fit into that
DEWANDA WISE, box, so I had to create my own box.
actress, Shots Fired and
Underground
Being a chocolate-black girl, theres color in part because people dont being like, This is who I am, and its
always this conversation about what it think its a problem. I do think beautiful. When youre a black
means to live in a duality. I went to companies understand that dollars are person in this country, some things
all-white schools. My differences were coming from all ethnic markets, not you dont mean to be political
always really kind of celebrated. I didnt just Caucasians, [but] were still statements become political
grow up teasedI was homecoming peripheral in ads. Id give it a Cbefore statements. Youre just saying, I
queen. I didnt hit the glass ceiling until I would have given them an F. wont allow how anyone else talks
I was starting to audition. And even about standards for beauty to disrupt
then, we all have our privilegesI have the way I want to live my life.
a pretty face. I still found myself being
LILLY SINGH,
in the same conversations as women vlogger and author, How to Be a
who look nothing like me. What I Bawse (Random House) AJA NAOMI KING,
find inspiring now is differences are The last time someone made me feel actress, How to Get Away
being celebrated. Theres this earnest bad about my skin would be every With Murder
exploration of what it means to be single comment I get about my face I was afraid of the darkness of my
beautiful. The queen mother of makeup not matching my neck. Its skin. I believed I had to be celebrated
chocolate girls is Viola [Davis]. In something I get on YouTube. Maybe if for my intelligence and my sense of
Hollywood everyone has a type. If more foundation matched my skin humor. Those could be the beautiful
youre blonde in your 20s, they expect tone, haters would slow their roll. things about me since my skin
you to be ditzy. And Viola was like, couldnt. I remember in junior high
OK, this is the space that Im placed in, having a beach day with my family and
but its my job to subvert your
EVA LONGORIA, going to school the next day. Someone
expectations. Between her and Kerry
actress, Lowriders; director; in my class exclaimed shock at my
[Washington] opening the doors...I producer; and activist appearance. She didnt know black
wouldnt be on Shes Gotta Have It now I remember growing up in Texas not people could tan. The look on her face
if it werent for those women. speaking Spanish and yet feeling stuck with me. For years, I wanted to
as Latin as can bekind of being a avoid direct sunlight. The comments
fish out of water. It was definitely hard you hear as a child stick with you. [I
CONSTANCE WU, for people to just assume youre one was] afraid of photos in dark rooms
actress, Fresh Off the Boat thing, but youre not just that one because you know no one will be able
thing. That was something to navigate to see you in the picture and [people]
My family is Chinese-Taiwanese. Im
early on in Hollywood. Because will make fun of you. [I feared] walking
from Richmond, Virginia. The
Hollywood has an idea of what they into a room that has a black wall and
community in which I grew up was
think Latina looks like, and I didnt fit
pretty white. The storybooks you got
into that box, so I had to create my
own box. I live my life trying to

136
got out of my country [Senegal]. I was
hearing someone remark about how in Italy on vacation, and I saw my
youve disappeared. You try to avoid reflection in a mirror. I saw how
these situations so youre not in a unique my skin was and why people
position to act like you dont care or stop me on the street to ask about it. at the table has opened up the
[you] make fun of the darkness of I started falling in love with it. dialogue on inclusion and diversity.
your skin before someone else does We all should be celebrated. We all
so that maybe it will sting less. It has deserve a seat at the table.
been a process of self-love to embrace
SASHEER ZAMADA
the beauty of every single drop that
comedian and Saturday Night
makes up the richness that is my Live cast member HANNAH BRONFMAN,
beautiful brown skin. If you learn When I was younger, a lot of older DJ and founder of HBFIT TV,
anything in life, learn to love yourself. black people would tell me, Dont a beauty and fitness website
There is no amount of makeup or go outside for too long because you My mother is an African-American
skin-care products that will make you dont want to get darker. When I from the South Side of Chicago who
love yourself. got older, I realized it was passed- married a white guy in 1978. She was
down colorism. What the black hyperaware of racism and made me
community has experienced has been aware of that. I went to a private girls
MISHA GREEN, absorbed. We kind of police each school where I was one out of five girls
cocreator, writer, and other. My mom grew up in Arkansas in the class who looked like me. I really
producer, Underground during the civil rights movement. first encountered it when I went to
My skin is a shade darker than Shes one of seven kids, and shes one dance class at Alvin Ailey with girls who
caramel, with a speckle of chicken pox of the darker-skinned kids in her were a lot darker. Theyd tease me that I
scars that I tried to pass off as family. She said that her mom would didnt have rhythm. When I was 12, I
freckles in middle school. Spending treat the lighter-skinned kids better. had a falling out with a friend. She
summers in the South growing up, I My grandma absorbed whatever called me the N-word. The fact is that
was always aware of colorism in the messages she was getting in the stuff is taught. African-Americans are
black community, but it wasnt really world: If you are light as a paper bag still underserved by cosmetics. Ive
until I attended an all-white middle or if you have straighter hair, you will been using a line called Wander, by
school that I encountered it. I get treated better. Thankfully, my Lindsay Ellingsona blue-eyed white
remember riding the bus and one of mom didnt pass any of that energy to girl. Their colors are great.
my classmates was turned around in me. [Being on Saturday Night Live,]
her seat staring at me. I asked why. Ive gotten some really nice comments
She wanted to know what I was mixed from other black people who say, Its
TAMIKA MALLORY,
with. She had never seen such a pretty so nice to see a woman of color who activist, national cochair
black girl, so she assumed I must be looks like me on TV. I am darker than a of the Womens March on
mixed with something. At the time, I lot of women who are on TV, and my Washington, and founder
was too offended to answer. But since hair is natural. To a lot of people, its of Mallory Consulting
then, I have been asked what Im mixed important to see me on TV, and Im so When I was in elementary school,
with too many times to count, and happy to be there and do that. I lived in a community that was
each time I am met with skepticism predominantly black and Latino. The
when I reply that I am black. I continue
by informing the misinformedthe
JESSICA ALBA, light skindark skin issue was very
prevalent. The Latino [kids were] the
African diaspora comes in many hues;
actress and founder of
cool kids, while the black kids were sort
all of them are beautiful. the Honest Company and of looked down on. It definitely created
Honest Beauty insecurities. Today, I am 100 percent
Its important for [my daughters] to comfortable in my skin. Each one of us
LIU WEN, know that beauty comes in all shapes has to be comfortable in our skin. Thats
model and sizes and colors, to celebrate what will change the world. There is
I have the skin of a Chinese woman. diversity and point out people who some young girl who is watching, who
It has a healthy color and glow. My have [a] different tone, or theyre has darker skin, who is going to be
skins beauty is a gift from my parents. covered in beautiful freckles, or they encouraged by your confidence, your
As a child, I did not consider this too have tight curls or long waves. All of ability to walk in your skin. [The
much, but after I started modeling its beautiful. Girls who choose to wear Womens March] was a great display of
internationally, people would boys clothes, who dont want to put what this country really looks like. Now
compliment me on my skin. Only then on a face of makeup, who want to we are going to have to be committed
did I appreciate this gift. It doesnt shave their headsthats beautiful. to resistance. Resistance looks like the
matter where you come from or What makes someone beautiful is the National Park Service tweeting about
who you arealways cherish yourself. power of owning who they are, and climate change regardless of whether
Be proud of your heritage. confidence, being kind, having somebody is going to lose their job.
compassion. Those types of themes Resistance looks like not accepting
are what I really try to nail into my alternative facts. Resistance looks like
KHOUDIA DIOP, girls heads. The only way that any of registering to vote. If you woke up after
model and diversity and us is going to advance is if we have a the election feeling disparaged,
anti-bullying advocate generation of people who arent living threatened, welcome to the reality that
My skin is dark and glows. It almost with prejudices about standards of black people have been dealing with
seems blue, and its supersoft. I beauty. I think an African-American
realized my color is beautiful when I president and First Lady really helped.
[And] having more women have a seat
DILONE,
model
I dont think people realize just how
much Latinas vary in skin tone. I have
Colombian and Dominican friends
who are superdark and others
who have blonde hair and blue
eyes. We are kind of stepping
away from thinking this is what
someone Latin should look
like, with a light skin tone and
big butts. Its celebrated
more now than in the past,
just how different Latin
women are. My role model
growing up was Selena. I
love her music, what she
represented, her sexiness.
And just being herself. She
wasnt trying to conform to
something else.

Viscose-blend top by Balmain.


Bikini top by Jade Swim. Bikini
bottom by Maryam Nassir Zadeh.
Necklace (worn as belt) by Herv
Van Der Straeten. Sunglasses,
Dilones own. Details, see
Shopping Guide.
aboriginal women about self-esteem.
At a young age, I was able to do some
deep soul searching. When I finally They said, Louis [C.K.] wants to come
for a long time. If people of good had the courage to look in the mirror and speak with you. I hadnt met
conscience are to see a real healing, and say, I love you, I began to love the him yet, and he said, Hey, Im Louis.
its going to have to start with fighting color of my skin and all parts of me. Weve been looking for you for a long
for the most oppressed. time. We finally found you. Wow.
BECKY G.,
PIA WURTZBACH, singer and actress, Power HUDA KATTAN,
Miss Universe 2015 Rangers CEO of Huda Beauty
It took a while for people to When my brother was in a [baseball] Growing up, my family and I would
accept me as a representative of tournament, Ill never forget the coach travel to [the] Middle East to visit our
[the Philippines]. Usually, the on the other team saying, You people relatives, and they would always favor
representatives we send to the Miss because we won. My little brother is lighter skin and comment on my dark
Universe competition have dark skin. Mexican and a lot of his team[mates] skin. I always knew I was darker than
Im on the fair side, and it took them were African-American. That really most of my friends and relatives, but I
a while to see if I could be an accurate opened my eyesWow, this still loved it. Whats important is that you
representative of the Philippines. exists? Ive never let the color of my never let your skin color define you.
I went through a lot of experiments. skin or the fact that Im a woman stop Skin color is special because its yours.
The first year I put on some tanning me from anything. It was a big, big
lotion, and I didnt win. My second deal when I got cast [as Trini in Power
year, I went and tanned [and didnt
win]. And on my third attempt, I didnt
Rangers]. Shes Latina! This is the next VERONICA WEBB,
generationits moving forward. model, founder of webbonthefly
go three shades darker. I won.
.com, and first woman of color
ALBA RAMOS, to have a major cosmetics
LORA ARELLANO, a.k.a. Sunkissalba, vlogger contract (with Revlon in 1990)
makeup artist and founder Being Dominican, I think a lot of us Every time theres a big idea or a
of Melt Cosmetics have struggled with our skin color. different idea, theres going to be
When I started working in makeup, We either absolutely love our skin controversy; there are going to be
some people would immediately color and were proud of it orin my detractors. There were people who
think I didnt know how to work with casethere was no reassurance for were offended that a black person
their skin tone. I constantly heard, Oh, me that my skin color was beautiful.... would have a Revlon contract. Some
I saw this Hispanic girl, and I didnt [Then I went from] school in an area of them even went into threats. Then
know if she could match my skin tone.
I usually sit them down, like, Trust me.
I got you. Once they see the finished
product, they wont question you
I think Ive come a long way from
again. Now the majority of my clients
are African-American. I used to try
that nine-year-old girl who wanted to
to buy makeup for darker skin tones, trade in her brown skin for white.
and it was hard. I had to use eye
shadow to contour. Now theres a
brand, AJ Crimson, that [has] one of that was 99 percent Hispanic to a high there were other detractors who felt
the darkest colors in foundation. school that was more diverse. The fact I wasnt black enough. So too black,
that I was able to surround myself with not black enough. The point is that the
different people helped a lot on how world is also full of smart, kind people,
JESSICA MATTEN, I see myself. Today, I am superproud and thats why things move forward.
actress, Frontier of my color. Every day theres at least
The indigenous part of me is Mtis, one comment on social media or my
and my family hails from a very YouTube [from someone who] specifies
BEVERLY JOHNSON,
racist part of Canada. Growing up, they feel much more accepting of first African-American model to
my mother was taught: Keep it themselves because they see me. be on the cover of Vogue and
hush. Youre light-skinned, so you can author, The Face That Changed
get away with people not thinking It All (Atria Books)
youre native. She wanted better for SUSAN KELECHI I didnt know I was going to be on the
her children, so I didnt grow up on a WATSON, cover. My agent called and told me,
reserve. In the city, there was still a actress, This Is Us and Louie and I couldnt put on my jeans fast
lot of racism toward native people. I enough to run down to the magazine
Id been watching Louie and knew
was always trying to overcompensate store. I didnt know it was a first. It was
that his children [on the show] were
for what I was by being the best on the a different time, and it wasnt a topic
blonde, blue-eyed kids. I went into the
sports team, joining the photography that they never had anyone black on
audition room, and I said, I know Im
club, the drama club. I was trying to the cover of Vogue. My whole life was
not going to play the wife, because
prove the color of my skin didnt make defined by that momentI realized
have you seen the kids? The people
me less than as a human being. When I the responsibility I had taken on.
casting looked at me and said, Were
was 14, a boy called me a drunk squaw,
gonna press record. I would have
a very derogatory term. My mom and
never thought that I would have been
I started holding workshops for other
considered for something like that.

139
AAMITO
LAGUM,
model
Growing up in Uganda, I did
not fit into the ideal. I was too
dark. I was too tall. But I didnt
really notice I was black until
I came to the U.S. Here Im black,
whereas I was just a person in
Uganda. [Last year, there was a
close-up of Lagums lips on the M.A.C.
Instagram feed that triggered racist
remarks in the comments section.]
It wasnt that big a deal to mehaters
gonna hateand I was able to
brush it off. I posted back, My lips
are giving you sleepless nights.
I grew up loved by my family.
That love enabled me to love
what I saw in the mirror. I
learned to love my skin too
much to fit someone elses
script. It is the same love
that keeps me safe from
comments that would
otherwise offend me.

This page: Cotton top by


Alexander Wang. Linen shorts
by Jil Sander. Necklace by
Leigh Miller. Makeup colors:
Lash Domination Volumizing
Mascara, Brow Master Brow Gel
in Universal Taupe, and Invisible
Glow Powder Highlighter in Dark
to Deep by BareMinerals. Opposite
page, from left: Swimsuit by Alix.
Swimsuit by Mikoh. Earrings by
Loewe. Details, see Shopping Guide.

Check out Hammam, Dilone,


and Lagums messages to the world
of beauty and fashion at
allure.com/beauty-diversity.
only is that in other peoples minds,
ALICIA MACHADO, JOAN SMALLS, but now its permeated my mind as
actress, activist, and Este Lauder spokeswoman
well. I encourage anyone whos
Miss Universe 1996 My skin is a caramel color with olive reading this to be whoever they are.
Im trying to put all my attention on undertones. My mothers complexion I want to be an example of someone
positive thingsall the races are is golden and olive. All my family who is trying to do that every day.
beautiful. We need to be stronger than members have a variation of skin tones
weve ever been before. No more and color, and not once have we ever
competition between us, the powerful mentioned it or compared it. One PRIYANKA CHOPRA,
womens community. We need to thing I miss the most about living in actress, Quantico
teach that to the next generation. Puerto Rico: My color was darker, and [My skin] is as complicated as I am.
my ancestry was more noticeablemy When I was growing up, I didnt
Latina and African side. When I first see anyone on television who looked
DEMI LOVATO, started modeling in Europe, the like me. Initially companies didnt
Singer, songwriter, and actress, makeup artists asked me if I brought have colors that matched Asian or
Smurfs: The Lost Village my own foundation. I was taken Indian skin. Because Im darker, I had
Ive been having makeup applied to abackthis is a professional? Its sad issues as a teenagersociety
my skin for as long as I can remember. that they hadnt worked with more pressure that a girl is prettier if shes
While I love to play around in makeup, people with my skin tone. lighter. Pressures exist, and its on us
I didnt like it when makeup artists to make those pressures not seem
would apply it so heavy. I always felt important to girls. Ive achieved what
like it wasnt letting my skin breathe, so
SAMIRA WILEY, Ive achieved, and skin color has
I was extremely diligent about washing actress, Orange Is the
nothing to do with itin fact it might
my skin. Beauty is more than skin deep. New Black and have been an asset. I like the color
Skin care isnt entirely about vanity. The Handmaids Tale of my skin very much. Its so primitive
Something as simple as washing your In the African-American community, to me that people are judged on
face is a way of treating yourself with they had something called the the basis of the color of their skin.
respect. Ill sometimes post pictures brown-bag test. If you are lighter I mean, its skin. We all have it.
on social media of me caring for my than the bag, youre OK. There are
own skin because I want to be a good a lot of parts I read in scripts and
example for my fans and create think, Why are they sending me this?
awareness of skin care and self-care. This is for a beautiful white girl. Not
Living Out Loud

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFE)

FIRE AND ICE


Acid orange brushed up through the brows is a rallying cry; sky blue on the inner corners provides an angelic counterpoint. Makeup
colors: Velvet Shadow Stick in Grand-Large and Duo Eyeshadow in Mediteranee by Nars. These pages: Makeup, Erin Parsons; hair, Didier
Malige; manicure, Naomi Yasuda. Model: Ola Rudnicka. Fashion stylist: Celia Azoulay. Above: Dior Colour Gradation Eyeshadow
Palette in Blue Gradation, LOral Paris Infallible Paints lip color in Lilac Lust, and Essie nail polish in Excuse Me, Sur.
COLOR RIOT
Minty green, frosty
purple, and daffodil
yellow may seem
unbearably girlie at
first, but with
bleached browsor
at least bare lashes
the look becomes
cool and rebellious.
Take that, Rainbow
Dash. Makeup colors:
Artist Shadow in
M-408, I-916, and
ME-122 by Make
Up For Ever.
COMIN IN HOT
Pink lips arent exactly
groundbreaking.
But when the pink is
intensely saturated
(here, makeup artist
Erin Parsons layered
liner, cream, and
powder) and paired
with marigold eyes,
you are leading the
revolution. Makeup
colors: Pigment
in Rock-It Yellow and
Lipstick in Fusion
Pink by M.A.C.
The Doctor Will
Snap You Now
A slew of plastic surgeons are taking to
Snapchat to show videos of breast-implant
surgery, butt lifts, liposuction, and more.
Loren Savini steps into a surgical gown and finds
out where ethical boundaries are being drawn.
Photographed by Grant Cornett
PROP STYLIST: JOJO LI.
Dr. Miami, the Florida-based plastic surgeon widely
credited as the creator of the operating-room Snapchat,
is a veritable celebrity with an upcoming We TV series.
There is capital in cutting people up on camera.
I first meet Begovic in her Beverly Hills office early
on the morning of the tummy tuck. Shes running a bit
behind, filming the intro to her Snapchat story in the
back because the lighting is better (she has a ring light
set up for selfies). Its Barbies Dream Waiting Room
heres no way to say this nicely. The first everything is white or pink or damask or glittering. And
thing you notice is the smell of burning theres a framed advertisement for her Snapchat handle
flesh. You see the little white ribbons of on the front desk.
smoke hovering over the patient, but it When she crosses the room, her loose curls are
doesnt hit you until a circulation nurse swings blown back by some divine wind machine. Shes 40 but
open the operating-room door, wafting that doesnt look it, maybe because of the Botox injections
apocalyptic smell around the room where it sucker- she performs on herself for her Snapchat followers. She
punches your gag reflex. I had watched hundreds of speaks deliberately but with the slightly rising inflection
tummy-tuck videos on Snapchat leading up to this of a Valley Girla board-certified Valley Girl with a
moment, but I wasnt ready for the stench. When you Harvard degree. Shes wearing pink eye shadow and
watch this procedure on your iPhone, with little pink lipstick and a lab coat with her name embroidered
pink hearts decorating the corners of the shot, its in pink thread.
not nearly as brutal. Emojis soften the blow. She walks me through the tummy tuck and the
If you follow Beverly Hills plastic surgeon Cat labiaplasty Ill be observing. There might be kids
Begovic on Snapchat (beautybydrcat), you saw watching, so I dont show the vagina, she says. I feel
this surgery in early January. Its a tummy like its my responsibility to censor things like that.
tuck plus hernia repair for an already slender Then she has me sign a consent form from the surgery
woman. Shes had a few kids, and the skin center, in case you pass out or have any emotional
on her stomach had stretched and sagged. or psychologicalyou know. I start to ask whether its OK
If youre having trouble placing it, its the that I have my phone in the operating room before I
surgery Begovic snapped the same day as remember who Im talking to.
a video of her cat chasing a soccer ball. The psychological you knows are part of the
There was also a selfie, a weekly Snapchat mystery. Who is watching this and why? It strikes me as
surgery schedule written on a whiteboard kind of macabre. I guess theres the train-wreck
like a TV Guide, a couple of before-and- theory: You cant look away. But that seems a little too
afterstap, tap, tap your screenand now simplistic. Ill glance over when I see a flaming car
youre caught up. You didnt see me in any on the side of the road, but I sure as hell dont cruise
videos (it was offered; I declined), but I was around on the freeway hunting for one. Similarly, my
there, hunched over in the corner of the room, social media feed is not specifically curated for seeing
wrapped in a blue medical gown, trying to unwelcome flesh cut from a human body. Im more
breathe deeply through a surgical mask, and, of a baby-animals person. I like to know what Selena
despite having gotten permission from the patient to Gomez is doing in her free time.
be there, feeling pretty creepy about the whole thing. Granted, all I have on Selena is a two-dimensional
Creepy seems to be the standard response when I shrunken-down version of her life. As far as I know, she
tell people about the plastic surgeons who broadcast lives in the 4.7-square-inch rectangle that is my phone
their surgeries in real time via Snapchat to an audience screen and only in the 30-minute intervals before and
ofwho knows, really. Children? Perverts? Plastic- after work while Im sitting on the train. Maybe thats
surgery hopefuls? Is that even legal? asks the how these surgeries existfans are tuning in, tapping
bartender at my Los Angeles hotel. The answer is yes, so through, and moving on. But the real story is so much
long as the patient signs a release with any personal larger than 6.2 GB of app space. When youre actually in
caveats (like: My butterfly tattoo was custom. Friends the operating room, its not just a window of flesh
will know those are my innards), and the doctors are framed by gauzy blue medical cloth. Theres a person
free to use your unconscious body (minus the butterfly) under there. I met her! She was pretty and sweet and
for marketing purposes. quiet. And then I watched her drift off under anesthesia,
Begovic is in the company of a growing number of giving sleepy half-answers to the medical staff. I
surgeons taking to social media to show off their work.
Given the success of plastic surgery on television (Nip/
Tuck, Dr. 90210, Extreme Makeover), it should come as no
surprise that their snaps have viewers, and a lot of them.

Some male doctors


operating room was no
knack for rattling off hashtag suggestions in the OR.
The five-hour tummy tuck will be condensed into 20
or so ten-second snapshots and videos. Thats a tummy
tuck in 200 secondsabout three minutes of Snapchat
contentedited and filtered for optimal glamour.
Rest assured that the snapshots in which you can see
the glistening flecks of human fat on her gloves were
deleted and reshot. And up to 80,000 people will watch.
Begovic is a diligent doctor. The nurses are perfectly
watched them arrange her body in an unnatural pas de capable of mixing lidocaine, but Begovic likes to do
chat. I watched as a surgeon cauterized the muscle away it herself just to be sure its done correctly. She can
from the fat for hours, making an oozy living cave detect a change in blood pressure from the soft
between her body and her flesh. I watched her abdomen beeps of the heart monitor at the same time as the
get tucked and sewn and a triangle-shaped portion of anesthesiologist. It just so happens that she can do all
her belly get sliced off. I heard the sound it made as it of this while her staff selects the best moments, lighting,
flopped onto the tablelike meat being weighed at a and angles for Snapchat. Its become second nature. I
butchers shop. I tried my best to forget the face of the basically speak in ten-second bursts, she says.
pretty and sweet and quiet girl so that I wouldnt burst If youre looking for something feistier to add to your
into tears. And of course, there was that burning-flesh feed, Sejal Patel (mydrsej), a plastic surgeon in Beverly
smell. That smell thats piped right into the devils Hills, has an office across the parking lot from Begovic. He
personal sauna, where he can bask in its smoky, musky, has his own hashtag: #ShapedExtraJuicy, built off of the
suffocating stench. first three letters of his name and a callout to his drastic
The people watching these graphic snaps, Begovic Brazilian butt lifts. Patels snaps are more playful; theres
tells me, are young women. They want surgery, but music in the operating room, the occasional video of him
theyre scared. Theyre unhappy with the length of their rapping, and an after butt-lift video that frequently
labia, but they didnt know they could do something involves him zooming in on the newly plumped derrire
about it. For them, she provides step-by-step and shouting KABOOOOM! at the reveal.
explanations and a Q&A session at the end of the day. As long as youre showing respect for your patients,
Or, she says, theyre looking for a role model: Theyre it seems a little onerous for [us] to maintain this burden
just looking for motivation and inspiration. of having to behave in a certain way, he says. I feel
Its challenging being a woman in like Im conservative with my Snapchat, but other people
a male-dominated field. may think that Im insane.
Patel is so animated, its surprising. The way he sees
he regales me with tales of her
it, Snapchat is the ultimate marketing tool. You see his
training, when some male
before, you see his after, and then youll book an
doctors would tell her that
appointment. If youre bored with that, then go watch
the operating room was
someone elses Snapchat. Im not here to entertain you.
no place for a woman or
Im here to show you that I do really good work.
that her breasts would be
But not everyone sees it that way. Youve gotta look
too distracting for them.
at the before and the after. If I take a girl whosnot to
She does an excellent job
put girls as numbers, butlets say we take a 9. And I do
of convincing me that shes
something on her. The likelihood is now shes going to
a Snapchat champion of
look more than a 9. I recoil a little from his rhetoric; he
feminism. The platform is
doesnt notice. If I take a woman thats got an obesity
simple: She wants to show young
problemno matter how hard I work on her, the
women that if they work hard, they
likelihood is that she probably wont look as good as
can play with the boys (and be better)
[the 9], who was already hotI made a small incremental
and have a fabulous lifestyle to show for it.
change, and now she looks like an unreal goddess.
The fascinating thing about Begovic is how
Everyone is looking at the after and saying, You are
deliberate she is in a celebrity-self-awareness kind of
the most amazing doctor in the world. No, Im amazing
way. Every Snapchat that I watch is quickly rehearsed
for the one that weighed 200 pounds and can
and thoughtfully framed before her assistant counts
now go on a date and feel better about herself. A
down to the recording (Readysetgo). It hardly ever
humanitarian ignored.
requires more than one take, although if shes not
feeling it after three or so words, shell ask to start over.
Then Begovic will give a final glance of approval before
the video or photo goes into editing on the sidelines.
There are captions to add, emojis, and filters. She has a

would tell her that the


place for a woman.
Patel says that an overwhelming majority of his
patients agree to be on his Snapchat, which is, I tell him,
surprising to me. Arent they concerned that youll be
more focused on your phone than the procedure? Thats
a hilarious concern because youre literally showing
thousands of people what youre doing. Its the opposite.
It isnt until Patel sheds a little light on his own
Once you start the Snapchat, you gotta finish it, and
personal motives that I start to understand: I dont need
it better look goodor youre gonna look like a jackass.
[the media] anymore. If youre good on social media,
It takes balls to show what your results are.
youre gonna be successful. Smaili has crafted himself
Most of the patients who agree to speak with me
into a kind of celebrity (or so hed have you believe),
have a similar attitude. They see Snapchat as
and hes doing just fine on his own, thank you very
accountability. And it is about passing on the good
much. Whether he doesnt want me to see beyond his
willthey were nervous about a procedure, but when
social media image or he just doesnt give a shit about
they saw the snaps, they knew they werent alone. The
me doesnt really matter. Its important to remember
other response: Who cares? Its anonymous. One man
that these snaps are not indicative of what surgery is.
who had a full-body liftwhich is exactly what it sounds
They give a glimpse of a procedure, sure, but it sounds
likewas in it for the novelty: Of course I would agree! I
different. It smells very different. It takes much longer.
was filleted! Once youre awake, its over. You want to
There is a recovery period that is not documented.
see what happened. But the one thing they all said was
You never actually see the patients slowly fade off under
that they had found their surgeon through Snapchat
anesthesia. When these surgeons arent on and
wouldnt it be hypocritical not to sign the forms?
ready to film, theyre quietly suturing or chatting with
ot all plastic their staff or, in some cases, getting a little testy
surgeons are as with a snap-ographer.
forthcoming about After a week on the set of the Beverly Hills operating
their social media rooms, heres how I reconciled this showbiz-y version
endeavors as Patel. of medicine: On my flight to L.A., I sat next to the
Tarick Smaili, or Bachelor himself. He spent the flight crafting tweets and
Dr. Smileyhaving discussing with a person I assumed was his handler
forgone his given what he might say on Jimmy Kimmel. Now, the Bachelor
name for his Snapchat is not certified with the American Board of Plastic
handleis another Surgery, and his selfies are far from, say, a graphic
Snapchat aficionado breast implant, but what youre getting as a consumer of
based in Beverly Hills. He social mediaof any mediais packaged in a similar
doesnt answer repeated way. He is creating the narrative, and all youre seeing is
requests for an interview. the final, filtered product, exactly the way he wants you to
His Snapchat is one of the see it. If all goes well, you will lap it up without question.
more over-the-top depictions of plastic surgery Ive seen. The surgeons of Snapchat are no different. Do I
Smailis feed is like a three-ring circus, but the segments think Begovic actually chills on Friday by putting on a
of him in wacky costumes providing personalized cocktail dress and playing Chopin on a white baby-
shout-outs to his fans suggest that people love the show. grand piano? No. But thats the Dr. Cat brand that shes
His snaps range from speculation on whether or not selling. You still have to do your own research, says
Gisele has had any work done to him handling a silicone Begovic. You still have to get information from a
breast implant. People dont believe me when I tell credible source. It doesnt matter how many followers
them about the bubble-butt dance, a brief artless your doctor has.
shuffle that he films his scrubbed-in staff performing Theyre all in it for different reasons, maybe some
over the newly plumped-up ass of a still-unconscious more noble than others, but we should know what those
patient. Im sure the patient had to have given reasons are and hold on to that. By selecting the people
permission for this terrifying ritual. Its loud and frenetic whose content you choose to follow, youre filling your
and, to Smailis credit, I cant stop watching. feed with their manufactured images. The best we can
do is try to suss out the facts. The same goes for actors,
that girl from college you stalk on Instagram, news
outlets, and presidents. In this case, if you can look past
the heart emojis and the rap music, youll see the truth
in the operating room: A person wanted to feel better
about her body, and she signed on the dotted line.

If youre good on
social media, youre
PROP STYLIST: JOJO LI.

gonna be successful.
The
ACNE
Epidemic
MORE WOMEN THAN EVER BEFORE ARE
DEALING WITH CHRONIC STUBBORN
BREAKOUTS. AND NO ONE REALLY KNOWS WHY
(WHICH IS ALMOST AS FRUSTRATING AS
THE PIMPLES THEMSELVES). BUT NOW MORE
RESEARCHERS THAN EVER ARE WORKING
ON FINDING A CURE (EVEN A VACCINE).
AND WHILE WE AWAIT THE FINDINGS OF THOSE
BRILLIANT SCIENTISTS, WEVE FOUND A FEW
IMMEDIATE PATHS TO CLEAR, FLAUNTABLE SKIN.
BY ELIZABETH SIEGEL
INEZ AND VINOODH/TRUNK ARCHIVE
P
THE HORMONE FACTOR
If your acne is cystic and concentrated
around your jaw and mouth, your hormones
may be to blame. Because the Pill stops
the hormonal fluctuations that can bring on
those breakouts, its often a solution. And
icture a place where the white-sand beaches stretch for miles, if you started taking the Pill in your teens or
there are more palm trees than people, and no ones ever popped 20s, well, you may not even realize its
a pimple. Its called paradise. But also: Kitava. Its one of the helping keep your skin clear until you go off
islands that make up Papua New Guinea, and youll never find it and break out. Some women develop
concealer there, because no one who lives there gets breakouts. cystic acne for the first time only after they
Its a ginormous contrast to the rest of the world, and not just stop taking the Pill, says Jill M. Weinstein, an
because of the palm-tree-to-human ratio. Globally, 9.4 percent of attending dermatologist at Feinberg School
the population has acne. In the U.S., the percentage is even higher: of Medicine at Northwestern University.
About 50 million, or 15 percent, of us have clinically meaningful
acne; that could mean one pimple a month or chronic breakouts, The link between other forms of birth
says Joshua Zeichner, an acne specialist and director of cosmetic control and breakouts, however, isnt as
and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in clear-cut. Theres currently controversy
New York. And that number is risingat least in one group: The around IUDs and acne, says William
incidence of adult female acne is increasing every year, says James, a professor of dermatology at the
Zeichner. No one really knows why. University of Pennsylvania who has seen
Awesome. patients break out after switching from
But there are theories: It could be genetics; it could be the oral contraceptives to the semipermanent
kind of milk in your coffee; it could be stress. Were working device. Many IUDs output hormones,
more, sleeping less, and frantically refreshing glowing screens which could lead to acne flare-ups, but its
all day because, sweet Jesus, why hasnt that email come such a small amount of hormones
through already? And studies have shown (over and over) that that we dont know if those are causing
stress ups oil production in the skin. If you develop acne in acne or if its because youre losing
your 40s (and about 12 percent of women do), it could be from [the skin] benefits of oral contraceptives.
shifting hormone levels, says Zeichner. For a generation of Another pill with skin benefits is an
women prescribed the Pill at 16, struggling with breakouts in oral blood pressure medication called
their 30s and 40s could be the aftermath of going off oral spironolactone. Its undergoing a
contraceptives for the first time. Or maybe its evolution, says renaissance for acne treatment, says
Zeichner. We think of it as something that happened thousands James. It blocks the effects of androgen
of years ago, but our bodies are constantly evolving. [hormones] on oil glands. But its not
Currently, hes conducting a study in collaboration with the without potential side effects, such as
Mount Sinai genetics department to look for genes that are irregular periods. So companies are
overexpressed in patients with acne, he says. At the University of researching ways to control excess
California, San Diego, researchers are working with an antibody oil production (a sign of hormonal acne)
that could become an acne vaccine. And thats just the beginning. without influencing hormone levels.
All around the world, the race is on to find the cream or shot or The most promising, DRM01, is a topical
herbal tincture that will eradicate breakouts once and for all. drug that shuts off the enzymes
While theyre figuring it out, we can tell you how to clear up needed to make sebum. It could be
your skin right nowand if you want to grab a bikini and a one-way available in as little as two years.
ticket to a remote island in the South Pacific, well, that never hurts.

FACING EAST CAN HERBS AND ACUPUNCTURE GET TO THE ROOT


OF RECALCITRANT BREAKOUTS? KATIE BECKER SURRENDERS HER SKIN TO CHINESE MEDICINE.
In the ten years that Ive battled painful, inflamed acne on my chin and cheeks, Ive seen at least a dozen
dermatologistsand not one was able to tell me the source of the problem. (Although they did offer plenty of
products and prescriptions to treat the symptoms.) But when I found myself on the table of acupuncturist
and herbalist Sandra Lanshin Chiu, who specializes in treating the skin with traditional Chinese medicine, I got
a very firm (if inscrutable) answer: I have too much damp.
Apparently this has nothing to do with my Seattle roots. Its Chinese medicine for: My bodys sluggish about
carting off toxins. So they build up in my skin.
Chius treatment plan is threefold: first, toxin- and inflammation-clearing herbs, adjusted biweekly depending
on my sleep quality, digestion, stress level, and menstrual cycle. They come as precooked liquids that taste like a
mix of hay, vinegar, and spoiled vegetables; I have to drink them twice a day. Three times a week, I also spend
ten minutes using a flat jade stone to gently pull or scrape the skin on my face and neck. Its a massage technique
called gua sha. And finally, acupuncture. Once a week, Chiu uses hair-thin needles to open energy blockages
throughout my body, reducing excess tension to relieve stress and improve circulation.
This Eastern approach requires trial and error, potentially a few months of it. And patience is not (or, at least,
was not) one of my virtues. But Im now a year in, and my breakouts are less severe, less frequent, and easier
to calm. Im hopeful that theyll soon be almost nonexistent. And in the meantime, Ive become far more in tune
with how to keep my body happy and healthyfrom my digestion to my sleep to my workouts. Ive slowed
down a beat, and maybe that was just the answer I needed.
The Works
MORE THAN
Drink your weight in water, buy
Walgreens out of alcohol wipes...
or stick with the many proven
acne fighters.

125 ACNE Benzoyl peroxide. It works


in about 12 weeks by calming
inflammation and killing the
bacteria that cause acne. But

PRODUCTS theres a good chance youre


using it the wrong way. We used
to think of benzoyl peroxide
as a spot treatment, says James.

LAUNCHED IN But since it kills P. acnes bacteria,


we now know to use it all over
to prevent new breakouts. A 2.5
percent or 5.5 percent formula

THE U.S. JUST works as well as a 10 percent


one without the flaky side effects.
(La Roche-Posay Effaclar is a
dermatologist favorite.)

LAST YEAR. Salicylic acid. Its in a lot of acne


products, but because it works
by removing excess oil and
dead skin cells from the skins
surface, its really ideal only
for blackheads and whiteheads,
not usually deeper pimples.

T
If salicylic acid creams dry you
out, Zeichner suggests looking
for the ingredient in a face
wash (like Bior Charcoal Acne
Clearing Cleanser): Leave it

HE BIG GUNS
WHEN 40 GREETED ANDREA FRANKLIN WITH HER FIRST-EVER
on for as long as it takes you to
sing the alphabet.
Retinoids. Theyre like pipe
cleaners for your skin, says
CYSTIC BREAKOUTS, SHE LEARNED A THING OR TWO ABOUT Zeichner. They minimize the
ISOTRETINOIN (THE DRUG FORMERLY KNOWN AS ACCUTANE). stickiness of dead cells so theyre
Im not saying I drink too much. What Im saying is that if I did drink too less likely to clog hair follicles
much, a little heads up would have been nice. and cause pimples. Differin gel,
Heres what they dont tell you right off the bat about isotretinoin: no with 0.1 percent adapalene,
drinking. The medicine stresses your liver. And alcohol stresses your liver. was recently approved by the
See where Im going with this? Three, four, maybe five months to glowing FDA for over-the-counter use.
skin also meant three, four, maybe five months staring at my tequila A doctor can prescribe tretinoin
collection with longing and nostalgia. My dining-room bar would become a or tazarotene. Combining
study in unrequited love. (Maybe cutting back wouldnt be the worst thing.) retinoids and benzoyl peroxide is
And yes, I have a dining-room bar. Im no college kid. Im a full-on also very effective because the
grown-up, and after a lifetime of pretty damn good skin, I was dealing with ingredients act in different ways,
near-constant cystic breakouts. For two plus years, I tried it all and finally says James, who likes the ratio
asked my dermatologist for the hardest of the hard stuff. in the prescription gel Epiduo.
Here are the other things you dont know about isotretinoin. Antibiotics. If your acne is
First: You will have to take a test every month. A blood testto assess cystic, persistent, or severe
that liver situationand a test test. You want blemish-free skin, youve gotta (15-plus pimples at once, but
multiple-choice your way there. The test test is to prove that you know whos counting?), oral antibiotics
the hazards of getting pregnant while on the drug. The hazards can best be can get it under control by
summed up as a cross between science fiction and straight-up horror. If decreasing inflammation and
you ever dont know the answer to a question, pick the one that you would killing some of the P. acnes on
see in a straight-to-video Tobe Hooper movie. You have to promise to use your skin, says Weinstein. But
two kinds of birth control, but feel free to add a third: abstinence. (Taking a just last year, the guidelines
pill wrapped in a picture of a pregnant woman slashed by a red line has a for this treatment changed. The
way of killing the mood anyway.) CDC found a significant portion
Secondly: Aquaphor. Cases of it. Isotretinoin shrinks your oil glands, of resistant bacteria was a result
and while youre on it, your skin will be all kinds of dry. of long-term antibiotic use,
Finally: In three, four, five months, sit the hell back and glow. Im which was common with acne
halfway there as I write this and already freaking radiant. In another patients, says Weinstein. Now
month, Ill be done, and I will be beaming like Venus. we prescribe oral antibiotics
I have just the Patrn for the occasion. for only 12 to 14 weeks.
INEZ AND VINOODH/TRUNK ARCHIVE
L
EARNING MILKING IT
Cheesy pizza, salty frieswe

TOLERANCE
UNA LAMARCHE FIGURED OUT HOW TO ACCEPT HER SKIN
blamed our teenage acne on lots of
delicious greasiness, but the one
food thats likely sabotaging our
skin in adolescence and beyond is
FOR WHAT IT IS. IT ONLY TOOK HER 20 YEARS. surprising. A series of studies
As it does with most of its victims, acne descended on me in my show skim milk is most consistently
teens. Ive repressed the exact year (most photos have been ritually associated with acne, says James.
burned), but it was the mid-90s, when every white girl (like myself) Many speculate that its because
was rocking chalky foundation that fell somewhere on the color of skim milks sugar-to-protein
spectrum between the Pillsbury Doughboy and Brad Pitt in Interview ratio. So go back to putting
With the Vampire. Every morning I would apply this ghostly paint real cream in your coffee, but skip
to my pimples, only to find that by the end of school it had melted the mocha-caramel creamer.
offleaving me with a stark, humiliating two-tone look. A diet low in sugar and processed
When I got to college and fell in love with someone, I let him see foods seems to be best for your
everything but my actual face; I went to great lengths to wake up skin, says Zeichner. (One theory
first, run to the coed dorm bathroom, and fill in my spots. Once, on a why theres no acne in Kitava:
group camping trip, I feigned exhaustion, burrowed into my sleeping Theres also no junk food.) High-
bag, and missed out on hours of fun with my friends because I glycemic-index foods raise your
didnt have enough light to fix my makeup and I was worried that the glucose levels, spiking production
campfire would reveal the relief map running across my cheeks. of a growth factorIGF1that
It took me a long time to stop that nonsense. My skin eventually promotes breakouts, he says. And
calmed down, which helped. But at 36, I still stash benzoyl peroxide now that youre on a health kick:
in what should be my sexy drawer. And yes, of course, I lament the Eating fruits, vegetables, and fish
adolescent oil sheen that spreads across my very grown-up T-zone. more than three times a week
What I dont do anymore is wake up first, run to the bathroom, and try is associated with fewer breakouts,
to conceal my pimples. I will always long for a perfect complexion, according to a survey in the
but Im not willing to battle my own reflection forever in pursuit of Journal of the American Academy
that elusive, genetically implausible Moby Dick. of Dermatology. High-antioxidant
Maybe Im just lazy. Or maybe Im flaunting my whiteheads in diets tend to be better for your
defiance of the patriarchy like the combination-skinned feminist skin; we think its because theyre
I am! Mainly, though, Im tired of hiding. I want to greet the day with anti-inflammatory, says Doris
my shiny forehead and my blemished chin and say, proudlyto Day, a clinical associate professor
my husband, to Beyonc, to the world!You know what? Screw it. of dermatology at NYU Langone
I woke up like this. Medical Center.

35% OF WOMEN
IN THEIR 30S
HAVE ACNE.
The Future Is Clear If we had a crystal ball, wed be gazillionaires. Wed also see these:
the next generation of acne treatments.
A bacteria cure: Theres a type of virus called phagesand theyre everywhere, says Jenny Kim,
a professor of medicine, dermatology, and nutrition at the David Geffen School of Medicine at
UCLA. In cheese, in dirt, on your skin. They infect bacteria, and thats where things get interesting:
Different types of phages live off of different bacteria, and they can choose to kill their hosts,
says Kim, who is studying the phages that infect P. acnes bacteria specifically. If we can deliver them
to the skin effectively, she says, maybe we can find a cure for acne.
A vaccine: Yes, really. A shot is in the works that could make you immune to breakouts. We found
an antibody to a toxic protein that P. acnes bacteria secrete on skin, says Eric C. Huang, the projects
lead researcher at the University of California, San Diego. The protein is associated with the
inflammation that leads to acne. The first phase of clinical trials on patients, which could take one to
two years, will be under way soon.
A probiotic therapy: Feeding probiotics [good bacteria] sugars creates a ferment, says Huang, who
is also studying one such ferments ability to kill P. acnes before they cause breakouts. A topical gel that
pits your skins bacteria against one another could be developed soon.
Power
Higher
Theyre teased with chinoiserie, draped in
silk, and framed by leather. Spring is
sending one very clear message: Hemlines
are going upand legs are coming out.

Photographed by Sebastian Kim

EASTERN STANDARD
Left, on Sasha Kichigina:
Polyester dress by
Marc Jacobs. Earrings by
Adornmonde. Right, on
Alanna Arrington: Polyester
dress by Marc Jacobs.
Makeup colors, on both:
Kate Sculpting palette
in Coral Glow and Lasting
Finish by Kate Lipstick
in Rock N Roll Nude
by Rimmel London. These
pages: Hair, Peter Gray;
makeup, Kristi Matamoros;
manicure, Sheril Bailey.
Fashion editor: Rachael
Wang. Details, see
Shopping Guide.
WRAP PARTY
Left: Silk dress by
Diane von Furstenberg.
Earrings by Kamryn
Dame. Right: Silk
jumpsuit by Diane von
Furstenberg. Silver
necklace by Ambush.
Makeup colors, on both:
Gimme Brow in 5 and
Theyre Real Lipstick &
Liner in Lusty Rose
by Benefit. Details, see
Shopping Guide.
SKIRT STRONG
Left: Viscose top and
leather skirt by Cline.
Leather boots by
Marc Jacobs. Earrings
by Jennifer Fisher.
Right: Cotton top by
Adam Lippes. Vinyl
skirt by Sonia Rykiel.
Python boots by Marc
Jacobs. On both:
Shimmer Strips eye-
shadow palette in Bronze
Nude by Physicians
Formula. Details, see
Shopping Guide.
Think of the shortest hemline
in your closet. Hell, think of the
shortest hemline in your past.
Now lop off a good four inches.
Welcome to spring, people.
Its no accident that the miniskirts the insider trick of Victorias Secret
and minishorts and minidresses of Angels, who used it on their legs
the season are being juxtaposed (and arms and faces) before walking
with shoes that can make the ground the runway last November. It makes
tremble with every stomp. In fact, self-tanner look more natural, it
thats the whole point. The real look makes the skin look soft and
of the season, the real accessory, smooth, and it makes the legs
the real must-have? Two things you look, you know, just, damn.
already own: your legs. To be fair, the beauty of this look
There are a few ways to get is not just in legs that are smooth,
your gams in fighting form. First defined, or the length of tree limbs.
youll need a razor with a hundred (Though admittedly that doesnt
bladesor, say, five. We like the hurt.) The real beauty in showing off
Gillette Venus Swirl Razor and EOS our lower appendages is the feeling
Shave Cream. Shaving is exfoliating, of empowerment that results.
so no need to use a scrub. If your Theres history herea profound,
legs arent blessed with a healthy hard-fought history. With every
dose of natural melanin, you probably passing generation, what we cut off
already know that self-tanner is our hemlines, we added to our
a friend. But heres what you dont backbones. Showing off our legs was
knowor at least keep forgetting: never just about showing off our
The amount of DHA in your self- legs. It was about our freedoms.
tanner, not how much you apply, Our bodies. Our stance. It was about
determines how deep the color will standing up and looking out. Our
get. So lay it on thick. The more legs carry us through the world.
you apply, the more even your skin Celebrating them has always
will look. Trust. You currently have meant taking pride in themand
14,367 self-tanner options, so in ourselves.
were happy to share three of our And a hemline whose length is
favorites: The new Jergens Natural best measured in millimeters
Glow Wet Skin Moisturizer goes on makes us stand taller. It makes us
damp skin as soon as you turn off walk prouder.
the shower, Vita Liberata Ten Minute It makes us unstoppable.
Tan has express formulas beat by 50 DANIELLE PERGAMENT
minutes, and Clarins Self Tanning
Instant Gel has never let us down.
BOOT CAMP
Now for the real insiders hack:
Opposite page, left: Leather top by
Once your self-tanner is completely
Herms. Silver bracelet by Jennifer Fisher.
dry, rub on a moisturizing serum. We Right: Cotton jacket by Marni. Leather
highly recommend NYDG Luminizing shorts by 3.1 Phillip Lim. On both:
Skin Essence. Its a toner-serum Airbrush Legs Leg Makeup in Medium
hybrid for face and body, but heres Glow by Sally Hansen. Details,
why you really care about it: It was see Shopping Guide.
SHOPPING GUIDE top, $645, and pants, $1,625. Herms stores. Jennifer Fisher Schiele (2); Joan Marcus;
Cover: Wendelborn wool Stella McCartney, Los Angeles. silver bracelet, $685. Jennifer Mariah Tauger. Beauty School,
bodysuit, $360. Modaoperandi 310-273-7051. Georgina Trevino fisherjewelry.com. Marni cotton page 42: Jason Lloyd-Evans
.com. Bottega Veneta knit top, Contemporary Jewelry earrings, jacket, $1,730. Marni stores. (Dolce & Gabbana); Imaxtree
$480. 800-845-6790. Narciso $130. Georginatrevinojewelry 3.1 Phillip Lim leather shorts, (McQueen, Valentino); Jeff
Rodriguez silk top, $895 for .com. Sonia Rykiel cotton top, $795. 31philliplim.com. Vespa/WireImage (Knightley);
similar styles. Neiman Marcus $550, and skirt, $790. Sonia Josephine Schiele (still lifes).
stores. Cover Look, page 16, Rykiel, N.Y.C. 212-396-3060. Beauty Reporter, page 47:
top, from left: Stella McCartney
cotton top, $645, and pants,
We Who Prey earrings, $55.
Wewhoprey.com. Isabel Marant
PHOTOGRAPHERS Jerod Harris/WireImage
(Heard); Neil Rasmus/BFA/Rex/
$1,625. Stella McCartney, Los cotton-blend top, $345. Isabel CREDITS Shutterstock (Bamber); David
Angeles. 310-273-7051. Georgina Marant, San Francisco. 415- Contributors, page 14: Noam M. Benett/Getty Images for
Trevino Contemporary Jewelry 781-0113. Stella McCartney Galai/WireImage (Chopra); Burberry (Aboah); Josephine
earrings, $130. Georginatrevino cotton pants, $1,065 for Cindy Ord/Getty Images Schiele (still lifes). Elements
jewelry.com. Isabel Marant similar styles. Stellamccartney for UNDP (Lakshmi); Frazer of Style, page 74, clockwise
cotton-blend top, $345. Isabel .com. Tibi earring, $675. Tibi Harrison/Getty Images for from top right: Frank Hoensch/
Marant, San Francisco. 415- .com. Page 133: Zero + Maria AFI (Watson); Steve Granitz/ Redferns/Getty Images; Monica
781-0113. Stella McCartney Cornejo cotton nylon sweater, WireImage (Wu); C. Flanigan/ Feudi/voguerunway.com; Luca
cotton pants, $1,065 for similar $1,250. Zeromariacornejo FilmMagic (Lovato); James Tombolini/voguerunway.com;
styles. Stellamccartney.com. .com. Maryam Nassir Zadeh Devaney/WireImage (Smalls); Umberto Fratini/voguerunway
Tibi earring, $675. Tibi.com. bikini top and bottom, $262. Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic .com; David M. Benett/
Sonia Rykiel cotton top, $550, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, N.Y.C. (Alba); Desiree Navarro/ Getty Images. Here Comes
and skirt, $790. Sonia Rykiel, 212-673-6405. J. W. Anderson WireImage (Markle); Prince the Sun, page 77: Liam
N.Y.C. 212-396-3060. We Who earrings, $1,650. J-w-anderson Williams/WireImage (Beetz); Goodman (shoe, top, bikini,
Prey earrings, $55. Wewhoprey .com. Loewe bracelet, $1,150 Neilson Barnard/Getty Images skirt); Josephine Schiele
.com. Bottom, from left: Alix for similar styles. Loewe, Miami. for the Limited (Longoria); (bag, concealer, oil); courtesy
swimsuit, $198 for similar styles. 305-576-7601. Page 134: Acacia Nicholas Hunt/Getty Images of subject (Wang); Alessandro
Shopbop.com. Herv Van Der Swimwear swimsuit, $213. Soleil for VH1 (Polanco); Daniel Garofalo/voguerunway.com
Straeten bracelet, $897. Vander blue.com. Marni earrings, $450. Zuchnik/WireImage (Webb); (runway). The Green Party,
straeten.fr. Acacia Swimwear Marni stores. Page 138: Balmain Jerod Harris/WireImage (King); page 114, clockwise from
swimsuit, $213. Soleilblue.com. viscose-blend top, $1,350. Michael Boardman/FilmMagic top left: Romulo Yanes; Levi
Marni earrings, $450. Marni Balmain.com. Jade Swim bikini (Green). Talking Beauty With Brown/Trunk Archive;
stores. Mikoh swimsuit, $218. top, $90. Matchesfashion Phillipa Soo, page 26, clockwise Romulo Yanes; Ted Cavanaugh/
Thegirlandthewater.com. Loewe .com. Maryam Nassir Zadeh from top left: Josephine Schiele thelicensingproject.com;
earrings, $1,290 for similar bikini bottom (sold with top), (2); Clara Balzary; Josephine Media Bakery.
styles. Loewe.com. Page 18, $262. Maryam Nassir Zadeh,
from left: Wendelborn wool N.Y.C. 212-673-6405. Herv
ALLURE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS
bodysuit, $360. Modaoperandi Van Der Straeten necklace,
.com. Bottega Veneta knit top, $897. Vanderstraeten.fr. Page INC. COPYRIGHT 2017 COND NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE
$480. 800-845-6790. Narciso 140: Alexander Wang cotton U.S.A. VOLUME 27, NO. 4. APRIL 2017 ISSUE. ALLURE (ISSN 1054-7771) is
Rodriguez silk top, $895 for top, $525 for similar styles. published monthly by Cond Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine
similar styles. Neiman Marcus Alexander Wang, N.Y.C. 212-977- Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: Cond Nast, One World Trade Center, New
stores. Talking Beauty With 9683. Jil Sander linen shorts, York, NY 10007. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman Emeritus; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr.,
Phillipa Soo, page 24: Michael $520. La Garonne, N.Y.C. President & Chief Executive Officer; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer;
Kors Collection wool vest, $2,795, 646-553-3303. Leigh Miller James M. Norton, Chief Business Officer & President of Revenue. Periodicals
and silk top, $1,045. Select necklace, $345. Leighmiller.us. postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post
Michael Kors stores. Page 26: Alix swimsuit, $198 for similar
Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services
Emilio Pucci poplin top, $1,220. styles. Mikoh swimsuit, $218.
Emilio Pucci stores. Beauty Thegirlandthewater.com. Loewe Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to
School, page 42: Lelet NY hair earrings, $1,290 for similar CFS (SEE DMM 507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send
comb, $148. Leletny.com. Urban styles. Loewe.com. Higher address corrections to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. FOR
Outfitters hair clips, $10 for Power, page 159: Marc Jacobs SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE
a set of four. Urbanoutfitters polyester dress, $3,800. Marc INQUIRIES: Please write to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call
.com. Lelet NY hairpin, $198. Jacobs stores. Adornmonde 800-678-1825, or email subscriptions@allure.com. Please give both new and
Leletny.com. Lelet NY hair comb, earrings, $78. Adornmonde old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office
$68. Leletny.com. Jennifer Behr .com. Marc Jacobs polyester alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation
hairpins, $152 for a set of five. dress, $3,800. Marc Jacobs
unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your
Jenniferbehr.com. Elements of stores. Page 160: Diane von
Style, page 74: Cynthia Rowley Furstenberg silk dress, $398. subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable,
lam dress, $395. Cynthiarowley Diane von Furstenberg, N.Y.C. you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a
.com. Giamba embellished boots, 646-486-4800. Kamryn Dame full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed
$827, by special order. Capitol, earrings, $275. Kamryndame within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and
Charlotte, North Carolina. .com. Diane von Furstenberg production correspondence to ALLURE Magazine, One World Trade Center,
704-366-0388. Pamela Love silk jumpsuit, $398. Saks Fifth New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email reprints@condenast.com or call
silver earrings, $250. Barneys Avenue stores. Ambush silver 717-505-9701, ext 101. For reuse permissions, please email permissions@
New York, N.Y.C. 212-826-8900. necklace, $3,500. Barneys condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.allure.com. To
Third Crown necklace, $280. New York, N.Y.C. 212-826-8900.
subscribe to other Cond Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit
Thirdcrown.com. Agmes silver Page 161: Cline viscose
rings, $220 to $290. Agmesnyc top, $2,850, and leather skirt, www.condenastdigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available
.com. Suit of Armor, page 129: $1,450. Cline, N.Y.C. 212-535- to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we
Alix swimsuit, $198 for similar 3703. Marc Jacobs leather believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers
styles. Shopbop.com. Herv boots, price available upon and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or
Van Der Straeten bracelet, request. Marc Jacobs stores. call 800-678-1825. ALLURE IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS
$897. Vanderstraeten.fr. Acacia Jennifer Fisher earrings, $535. OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS,
Swimwear swimsuit, $213. Soleil Jenniferfisherjewelry.com. UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS,
blue.com. Marni earrings, $450. Adam Lippes cotton top, $690. PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED
Marni stores. Mikoh swimsuit, Adamlippes.com. Sonia Rykiel
MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK,
$218. Thegirlandthewater vinyl skirt, $1,200. Sonia Rykiel,
.com. Loewe earrings, $1,290 N.Y.C. 212-396-3060. Marc OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS,
for similar styles. Loewe.com. Jacobs python boots, $6,500. UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY ALLURE IN WRITING.
The Beauty of Diversity, page Marc Jacobs stores. Page 162: MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE
131: Stella McCartney cotton Herms leather top, $10,400. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

164 ALLURE APRIL 2017


AUTOBIOGRAPHY

Gugu
Mbatha-Raw FILLS IN THE BLANKS.

JON KOPALOFF/FILMMAGIC (MBATHA-RAW); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFE)

Gugu Mbatha-Raw plays Plumette in the live-action movie


adaptation of Beauty and the Beast. For details on a few of her
favorite products (shown here), see Shopping Guide.

Potrebbero piacerti anche