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Knowing how your car runs can make the difference between a fair repair and a
royal ripoff.
Mechanics have been known to take advantage of a customer's lack of knowledge,
inventing expensive solutions where there is no problem.
Finding a qualified and honest mechanic doesn't require luck,
it requires a basic understanding of how cars run.
This section of
FUNdamentals of Auto Maintenance & Repairs
explains what each system does, what its component parts are called,
where to look for them in your car, and how they relate to one another
to make the vehicle run.
Don't worry about what model you own; every vehicle with an internal
combustion engine works on the same principles.
Once you've gotten a general idea of how things work, we will explore
each system in detail.
Then when you've become familiar with how a system functions,
it will make "The How To Sections" alot more understandable!
Owners Manual is factory printed literature that comes with All new vehicles which is
specific to that car or truck
Service Manual is literature which can be purchased that is specific to your make and
model vehicle
If you don't have an owner's manual, ask your car dealer if they can get
one for you or if they can tell you where you can get one. Service
manuals are also available for every vehicle, and I strongly suggest that
you get one of these as well. Every auto repair facility cannot stock a
service manual for each year, make, and model of every vehicle, and if
you lend your service manual to an independent service facility that is
working on your car, you can save money by reducing the time it would
take them to figure out the proper way to repair it. Also, if you get to
the point where you want to do more than basic repairs, one of these
manuals will be indispensable. The drawings in service manuals show you
where every little nut and washer fits so that you won't end up with a
couple of "extra" parts at the end of the job, and they show you how to
do each job in the most efficient manner.
You can obtain a service manual at the parts department of your local
dealership, or write to the company that made your vehicle and print
"Service Manuals" on the envelope.
The car manufacturer will be very happy to sell you one.
If you have an older vehicle, you can find new or used service manuals or
instruction books for it in bookstores.
Public libraries often have surprisingly large collections of service
manuals, too.
To find the page on which instructions for a repair job appear within
this site, look in the table of Contents found in the left hand column of each
page, the individual table of Contents which precedes each chapter located below
the TITLE of each Page,or the ‘SITEMAP of This Site.
You may at times encounter an unfamiliar term within this Site and more
than likely it will be a term that I placed a link to describe it.
Example:
. . . motion of the piston into the rotary motion of the crankshaft.
Crankshaft is highlighted with a link - Click It.
NOTE: You can always come back RIGHT where you were by clicking
the icon on your right of each page.
Included in this Site is a Glossary of automotive terms, if you want to
learn the meaning of a technical word in non technical language.
Some people like to think that vehicles are totally powered by gasoline,
and parts such as the radio, headlights, clock, and so on - actually
function on electricity, but did you know that it also takes electricity to
get your vehicle to start?
1.When you turn the key in your car's ignition switch to Start, you close a circuit
that allows the current to pass from your battery to your starter via the starter solenoid
switch.
2.The starter makes the engine turn over
(that's the roaring sound you hear before the engine starts running smoothly).
In the section of this site titled The Electrical System tells you exactly how it does this.
3.Once the engine is running, (gasoline) fuel flows from the fuel tank at the rear of the
car, through the fuel lines, to the fuel pump under the hood.
The section of this site titled The Fuel System explores it in detail, and shows you how
to keep it in tune.
4.The fuel pump pumps the gasoline through a fuel filter into the intake manifold.
(In carbureted cars, the gasoline is pumped into the carburetor, but nearly
everything else is similar in cars with fuel injection.)
5.Each pound of fuel is mixed with 15 pounds of air to form a vaporized mixture,
like a mist. Because fuel is much heavier than air, this mixture works out to
something like 1 part of fuel to 9,000 parts of air, by volume. In other words, your
engine really runs on air, with a little fuel to help it!
6.This fuel/air mixture (above #5) passes into the cylinders in your engine. A cylinder
is a hollow pipe with one open end and one closed end. Inside each cylinder is a
piston, which fits very snugly and moves up and down.
The piston moves up, trapping the fuel/air mixture in the upper part of the cylinder
and compressing it into a very small space.
7.A spark from a spark plug ignites the fuel/air mixture, causing an explosion.
8.The explosion forces the piston back down again, with more power than it went up
with.
Your knee goes up and down while your foot pedals 'round and 'round.
10.At the other end of the crankshaft is a box of gears called the transmission.
If your car has a conventional engine with rear-wheel drive,
the transmission is under the front seat.
11.If your car has a manual transmission, you'll also find the clutch located between the
crankshaft and the transmission. The clutch tells the transmission when to connect
or disconnect the engine from the rest of the drive train.
In a car with an automatic transmission, this is done automatically.
12.When you shift into Drive (or First, if you have a manual transmission),
a set of gears causes the rest of the crankshaft (which is called the drive-shaft after it
leaves the transmission) to turn at a particular speed.
Cars with front-wheel drive or with rear engines do not require driveshafts because
the power source is located right between the wheels that are going to drive the car.
On these vehicles, the transmission and the differential are combined into a single
unit called the transaxle, which connects directly to provide power to the drive
wheels.
14. The drive wheels turn and push the vehicle forward or backward, and off you go.
Th
he
A omo
Auto obile
e's
E ine
Engi
n. A compound
c machine
m by which
w any phhysical poweer is
applied to producee a given phyysical effect.
How too Turn Off annd On Anim mated Imagess
Intro
REVIEW of
THE IN
NTERNAL COMBUSTI
C ION ENGIN
NE
Types of
o Engines
In-line engines V-Type
V Engines Flat (H
Horizontal-O
Opposed) Enngines Rootary Engine
Overhead Camshafft (OHC) Double
D Overrhead Camshhaft (DOHCC) Overheaad Valve (OH HV)
Multivaalve Enginess
Engine Componentts
Pistons The Valv ve Train Connecting
C R
Rod Conneecting Rod Bearings
B C
Crankshaft
Flywheeel
Main Bearings
B The
T Cylinderr Head Dissplacement
Intake Compresssion Poweer Exhaustt
Combuustion Chamb ber Pistonn rings Wrrist Pin Timing Chain//belt Sparrk plug Gaaskets
The Engine's Lubrication Systeem Push Rods
R Serpeentine Belts Engine Cooling
C Haarmonic
Balanceer
Engine Balance
Engine Problem Soolver
Check your
y Engine Condition ono a Regularr Basis
What's Needed to Keep
K the Enggine in Goodd Condition??
Charless and Frank Duryea designed and buuilt the car together,
t shoowing off theeir inventionn on the
streets of
o Springfielld, Massachuusetts, on Seeptember 22,, 1893.
See moore Automob bile History here
h
All pe
erformed by the heart
h of the
t autom mobile, the engine .
It connverts fuuel into th
he energyy that pow wers the automobile.
perate, itt requiress clean airr for the fuel, watter for co
To op ooling,
electrricity (wh
hich it gen
enerates) for ignitiing the fuuel, and oil
o for
lubric
cation.
A batttery and electric starter get
g it goin ng.
What is an
Engine
An engine is a machine that converts energy into mechanical work.
An engine may get its energy from any of a number of sources, including
fuels, steam, and air or water under pressure.
The Otto-cycle engine, named after its inventor, the German technician
Nicolaus Otto in 1876 , is the familiar gasoline engine used in automobiles
today because it’s efficient, relatively inexpensive and easy to refuel. ;
the diesel engine, named after the French-born German engineer Rudolf
Christian Karl Diesel, operates on a different principle and usually uses oil
as a fuel. It is employed in electric-generating and marine-power plants,
in trucks and buses, and in some automobiles.
Both Otto-cycle and diesel engines are manufactured in
two-stroke and four-stroke cycle models.
How
w an
n Engiine Works
W s
The purpose
p of a gasoliine car en
ngine is to
o convertt gasoline
e into mottion so
that your
y car can
c move.
Since
e the auto
omobile engine is ana "internnal" combustion en ngine, a
conta
ainer mustt be founnd to keep p the exp
plosion on the insid
de, this would
w
be the combusttion chambeer, which consists of a Cyliinder.
Think
k of it like
e this!
Put the gasolinne in a stu
urdy meta
al can andd press do
own a tight-fitting lid.
Find a way to in
ntroduce a lighted match insside that can, and bam!
A contained exxplosion.
Well, nearly co
ontained. The
T lid wiill blow of
ff.
First problem:
After the explosion, the exhaust must be siphoned off and a new supply
of fuel must be introduced.
After all, one explosion won't propel a car very far.
The valve that lets the fuel in is called the "intake" valve.
The one that lets out the exhaust, the by-product of
the explosion, is called the "exhaust" valve.
Did yoou ever leav ve a covereed pot of coooking rice or spaghettti unattendded? As thee water
heats up,
u gases orr steam buiild and expand, creatinng pressuree and eventtually pushhing the
top offf.
In carss there is a great
g deal more
m pressure, and onnly an airtigght engine and cylindders can
trap this pressure for its pushing abilitiies.
And the
t secon nd problem m, a problem of a differentt sort:
The explosion
e n sends en nergy in a linear (rrelated to a straight line)
l motio
on,
but tires
t spin around.
To re
estate the e tire pro
oblem the e way Henry Ford might have e said it:
The reciprocat
r ting (up and down motion)
m energy prod duced by the gaso oline
explossion has to
t be con nverted innto rotary y (round and
a round motion)
m ennergy.
The in-and-out motion of the piston varies the volume of the chamber between the
inner face of the piston and the closed end of the cylinder.
At the end of the crankshaft is a gear and on the other end a heavy
flywheel with counterweights, which by their inertia minimize irregularity
in the motion of the shaft.
That gear meshes with a gear on another shaft called a camshaft.
On the camshaft and beneath each valve is a teardrop-shaped cam lobe.
The piston turns (powers) the crankshaft with every firing stroke
transforming the reciprocating motion of the piston into rotary motion.
In multi-cylindered engines the crankshaft has one offset portion, called a crankpin,
for each connecting rod, so that the power from each cylinder is applied to the
crankshaft at the appropriate point in its rotation.
The crankshaft not only powers the car, it also powers the camshaft.
And the cam lobes, positioned above each valve, push the valves open
each time the camshaft rotates and the cam lobe touches the valve
stem.
The proper alignment of the gears keeps the engine firing to provide
maximum power.
In all engines some means of igniting the fuel in the cylinder must be
provided.
For example, the ignition system of Otto-cycle engines described below
consists of a source of low-voltage, direct-current electricity that is
connected to the primary of a transformer called an ignition coil.
The current is interrupted many times a second by an automatic switch
called the timer. The pulsations of the current in the primary induce a
pulsating, high-voltage current in the secondary. The high-voltage current
is led to each cylinder in turn by a rotary switch called the distributor.
The actual ignition device is the spark plug, an insulated conductor set in
the wall or top of each cylinder. At the inner end of the spark plug is a
small gap between two wires. The high-voltage current arcs across this
gap, yielding the spark that ignites the fuel mixture in the cylinder.
1.
The First
F Stro
oke:
The Intake
I Sttroke
The first
f strokke of the cycle is the
t
e stroke. The crankkshaft, loc
intake cated
directtly below the cylindders on some
cars and
a below w and betwween the
cylind
ders on otthers, turns and be egins
to pulll the pistoon down the lengthh of
the cyylinder. We'll
W start with the e
piston
n at its hiighest poiint, referred
to as top-dead-center. FromF thiss
point the pisto on begins traveling
t down
the cyylinder, itt forms a vacuum. The
T
intake
e valve (se ee intakee system))
openss when the e piston begins
b its
downwward move ement, an
nd air and fuel are drawn intto the void.
The engine
e is designed
d t time th
to he intake with the downward d travel of the
piston
n so that the
t whole e time thee piston moves
m dowwnward, th he air/fue
el
mixture is fillinng the vaccuum in th
he cylinde
er. The inttake valvee shuts when
the piiston is att the botttom of the cylinderr. This is called the
e intake stroke.
s
2.
The Second
S Sttroke:
The Compressi
C ion Stroke
e
The crankshaft
c continuess to spin, forcing the
t
piston to rise, again
a throough the connectingg
rod, compressin ng the particles off gasoline and
air noow in the cylinder
c frrom the inntake strokke.
This compress
c ion of thee air and fuel
f mixtu ure
will crreate a more force eful explo
osion. Thiss is
calledd the compression stroke.
s The
comprression sttroke ends when th he piston has
returned to itss position at the to op of the
cylindder.
The amount
a th
hat the mixture
m is compresssed
is dettermined by the coompressioon ratio off the engiine. The
compr
pression raatio on th
he averagee engine iss in the raange of 8:1
8 to
10:1.
This means
m tha
hat when the
th pistonn reaches the
t top ofo the cyliinder, the e
air-fuuel mixturre is sque
eezed to about
a one tenth off its originnal volume
e.
3.
The Third
T Stro
oke:
The Firing
F Stroke or Th
he Power Stroke
At thhe finish of
o the com mpression stroke
s ,a
pulse of high voltage
v (se
ee ignition system m) is
t the spaark plug (lo
sent to ocated nea
ear the topop of
the cyylinder), caausing a spark
s to jump acrosss
the ga ap betwee en the eleectrodes. This sparrk
ignitees the air--fuel mixtture. The fuel
explodes and thet hot ga ases expan nd, forcinng
the piiston down nder (the
n the cylin e path of
leastt resistancce). This turns
t the crankshafft
and gives the carc the po ower to move
m forwaard
Each piston
p firres at a different
di t
time, dete
termined by
b the eng gine firing
g
orderr. By the time
t the crankshaf
c ft complettes two revolutions
re s, each cyylinder
in the
e engine will
w have gonego throuugh one poower strooke. 4.
The Fourth
F Strroke:
The Exhaust
E Stroke
S
Air enters the engine through the air cleaner and proceeds to the throttle
plate. You control the amount of air that passes through the throttle
plate and into the engine with the gas pedal. It is then distributed
through a series of passages called the intake manifold, to each cylinder.
At some point after the air cleaner, depending on the engine, fuel is
added to the air-stream by either a fuel injection system or, in older
vehicles, by the carburetor.
the piston engine (which was discussed above) and the rotary engine.
Both are internal-combustion engines, which means that fuel is burned inside
the engine.
There are several piston engine types which are identified by the number
of cylinders and the way the cylinders are laid out. Motor vehicles will have
from 3 to 12 cylinders which are arranged in the engine block in several
configurations.
The core of the engine isi the cylinder, with
h the pistoon moving up and doown
inside
e the cylin
nder. A caar has mo o cylinder (four, six and eight
ore than one e
cylind
ders are common)
c .
In a multi-cylin
m nder enginne, the cy
ylinders ussually are
e arrangedd in one of
f
threee ways:
in
nline,
V
or
fllat
(also known
k as horizontallyy opposed or
o boxer)
The most
m popular of the
em are sho
own beloww.
Eng
gine Compo
C onentss
Engine
e Block
The purpose
p of the enggine block
k is to sup
pport the
e componeents of th
he
engine
e. Additio
onally, the engine block traansfers heat from friction to
the attmospherre and enggine coola
ant.
What is the difference between a small block and a big block?
How about a short block and a long block?
Long Block: An engine WITH the head(s). Usually does not include the oil
pan, valve covers, and manifolds.
Cylinder
A cylinder is a round hole through the engine block, bored to receive a piston
(See Above Image). All automobile engines, whether water-cooled or air-
cooled, four cycle or two cycle, have more than one cylinder. These
multiple cylinders are arranged in-line, opposed, or in a V.
Engines for other purposes, such as aviation, are arranged in other
assorted forms.
The diameter of the cylinder is called the "bore" while its height is called
its "stroke." The "displacement" of an engine is actually a reflection of the
total amount of volume of the engine's cylinders, and nothing to do with
the actual size of the engine itself (although the two are highly
correlated). The displacement is simply the bore multiplied by the stroke
of a single cylinder, multiplied by the total number of cylinders in the
engine. Muscle car engine displacements were usually measured in cubic
inches, while modern vehicle's are expressed in terms of liters. Roughly 61
cubic inches equals a liter of displacement. Therefore, an engine with 350
cubic inches of displacement would be the equivalent of 5.7 liters.
The Cylinder Head
The Cylinder Head is the top cap for the engine block.
The cylinder head is the metal part of the engine that encloses and covers
the cylinders.
Bolted on to the top of the block, the cylinder head contains combustion
chambers, water jackets and valves (in overhead-valve engines).
The head gasket seals the passages within the head-block connection, and
seals the cylinders as well.
Henry Ford sold his first production car, a 2-cylinder Model A, on July 23,
1903.
The cylinder head contains at least one intake valve and one exhaust valve for
each cylinder. This allows the air-fuel mixture to enter the cylinder and
the burned exhaust gas to exit the cylinder. Most engines have two valves
per cylinder, one intake valve and one exhaust valve.
Some newer engines are using multiple intake and exhaust valves per
cylinder for increased engine power and efficiency.
These engines are sometimes named for the number of valves that they
have such as "24 Valve V6" which indicates a V-6 engine with four valves
per cylinder. Modern engine designs can use anywhere from 2 to 5 valves
per cylinder.
When the lobe pushes against the lifter, the lifter in turn pushes the valve
open. When the lobe rotates away from the lifter, the valve is closed by a
spring that is attached to the valve. A very common configuration is to
have one camshaft located in the engine block with the lifters connecting to
the valves through a series of linkages. The camshaft must be
synchronized with the crankshaft so that it makes one revolution for every
two revolutions of the crankshaft.
In most engines, this is done by a "Timing Chain" (similar to a bicycle chain)
that connects the camshaft with the crankshaft. Newer engines have the
camshaft located in the cylinder head directly over the valves. This design
is more efficient but it is more costly to manufacture and requires multiple
camshafts on Flat and V-type engines. It also requires much longer timing
chains or timing belts which are prone to wear.
Some engines have two camshafts on each head, one for the intake valves
and one for the exhaust valves. These engines are called Double Overhead
Camshaft (D.O.H.C.) Engines while the other type is called Single Overhead
Camshaft (S.O.H.C.) Engines. Engines with the camshaft in the block are
called Overhead Valve (O.H.V) Engines.
Gaskets
Your head gasket is the gasket that separates the head of your engine
from the block.
It also separates the coolant channels from the oil channels.
The small holes that you see around the piston holes are oil and coolant channels that
allow the engine coolant to flow around the pistons for better cooling of the engine.
When the factories bolt the engine's head and block together, a small
piece of rubbery material. The gasket is placed in between for a tightly
sealed fit. Gaskets insure a firm seal. Occasionally, gaskets deteriorate to
the point where they leak, particularly on very old cars and highly stressed
racing cars. Perhaps you have heard someone say that their engine "blew a
gasket" or has a "blown head gasket."
Gaskets and seals are needed in your engine to make the machined joints
snug, and to prevent fluids and gasses (oil, gasoline, coolant, fuel vapor,
exhaust, etc.) from leaking.
The cylinder head has to keep the water in the cooling system at the same
time as it contains the combustion pressure. Gaskets made of steel, copper
and asbestos are used between the cylinder head and engine block. Because
the engine expands and contracts with heating and cooling, it is easy for
joints to leak, so the gaskets have to be soft and "springy" enough to adapt
to expansion and contraction.
They also have to make up for any irregularities in the connecting parts.
Some engines have the camshaft mounted above, or over, the cylinder head
instead of inside the block (OHC "overhead camshaft" engines). This
arrangement has the advantage of eliminating the added weight of the
rocker arms and push rods; this weight can sometimes make the valves
"float" when you are moving at high speeds. The rocker arm setup is
operated by the camshaft lobe rubbing directly on the rocker. Stem to
rocker clearance is maintained with a hydraulic valve lash adjuster for
"zero" clearance.
The double overhead cam shaft (DOHC) is the same as the overhead
camshaft, except that there are two camshafts instead of one.
In an overhead valve (OHV) engine, the valves are mounted in the cylinder
head, above the combustion chamber. Usually this type of engine has the
camshaft mounted in the cylinder block, and the valves are opened and
closed by push rods.
Multivalve Engines
All engines have more than one valve; "multivalve" refers to the fact that
this type of engine has more than one exhaust or intake valve per cylinder.
Intake Port
The passage in the cylinder head which connects the intake manifold to the
intake valve through which the fuel-air mixture proceeds on its way to the
cylinders.
Intake Valve
The poppet valve that opens to permit the fuel mixture into the cylinder.
Some engines have more than one intake valve to each cylinder
Poppet Valve
The valve used to open and close the valve port entrances to the engine
cylinders.
Most cars built before the 1990s need to have their "timing"- the rhythm
of the cams and crankshafts-adjusted once in a while.
On some cars you need only a timing light (less than $50) and a screwdriver.
Newer cars are computer-controlled and need no adjustments
The function of the valvetrain is to allow fuel and air into the engine at the
appropriate time. The camshaft controls the timing but this is
synchronized to the crankshaft by the timing belt which is often referred
to as the fan belt.
Engines are constantly being redesigned so that they are lighter and have
relatively flat torque curves. Engine management systems improve engine
economy and responses. Engines have been made quieter by introducing a
torque roll axis mounting system which reduces engine vibrations.
Read More on
Connecting Rod
Connecting rods are usually made of alloy steel, although some are made of
aluminum.
Connecting Rod Bearings
Connecting rod bearings are inserts that fit into the connecting rod's lower
end and ride on the journals of the crankshaft.
Crankshaft
The crankshaft converts the up and down (reciprocating) motion of the
pistons into a turning (rotary) motion.
It provides the turning motion for the wheels.
As the pistons move up and down, they turn the crankshaft just like your
legs pump up and down to turn the crank that is connected to the pedals of
a bicycle.
Some parts of the shaft do not move up and down; they rotate in the
stationary main bearings. These parts are known as journals. There are
usually three journals in a four cylinder engine.
The flywheel is a fairly large wheel (a heavy disc) that is attached to the
rear of the crankshaft. It provides the momentum to keep the crankshaft
turning without the application of power. It does this by storing some of
the energy generated during the power stroke. Then it uses some of this
energy to drive the crankshaft, connecting rods and pistons during the three
idle strokes of the 4-stroke cycle. This makes for a smooth engine speed.
The flywheel forms one surface of the clutch and is the base for the ring
gear.
Main
n Beariings
The crankshaft is held in n place by a series ofo main bearings. The
T largesst
numbe er of main n bearingss a cranksshaft can have is one more than
t the
numbe er of cylinnders, but it can havve one lesss bearing
g than the
e number of
cylind
ders.
Disp
placeme
ent
The coombustion chamber is
i the are
ea where compressio
c on and com
mbustion take
t
place. As the piston move
es up and down, you
u can see that the size of the
combuustion chaamber chaanges. It has some
e maximumm volume as
a well as a
minimum volume.
The difference between the maximum and minimum is called the
displacement and is measured in liters or CCs (Cubic Centimeters, where
1,000 cubic centimeters equals a liter).
If you have a 4-cylinder engine and each cylinder displaces half a liter, then
the entire engine is a "2.0 liter engine." If each cylinder displaces half a
liter and there are six cylinders arranged in a V configuration, you have a
"3.0 liter V-6."
Generally, the displacement tells you something about how much power an
engine can produce. A cylinder that displaces half a liter can hold twice as
much fuel/air mixture as a cylinder that displaces a quarter of a liter, and
therefore you would expect about twice as much power from the larger
cylinder (if everything else is equal).
So a 2.0 liter engine is roughly half as powerful as a 4.0 liter engine.
The location of the combustion chamber is the area between the top of
the piston at what is known as TDC (top dead center) and the cylinder head.
TDC is the piston's position when it has reached the top of the cylinder,
and the center line of the connecting rod is parallel to the cylinder walls.
The two most commonly used types of combustion chamber are the
hemispherical and the wedge shape combustion chambers.
Horsepower
Horsepower is a unit of power for measuring the rate at which a device can
perform mechanical work. Its abbreviation is hp or bhp (for brake horse
power). One horsepower was defined as the amount of power needed to lift
33,000 pounds one foot in one minute.
Piston rings
Piston rings provide a sliding seal between the outer edge of the piston and
the inner edge of the cylinder. The rings serve two purposes:
They keep oil in the sump from leaking into the combustion area,
where it would be burned and lost.
Most cars that "burn oil" and have to have a quart added every 1,000 miles
are burning it because the engine is old and the rings no longer seal things
properly.
Wrist Pin
The wrist pin connects the piston to the connecting rod.
The connecting rod comes up through the bottom of the piston. The wrist
pin is inserted into a hole (about half way up) that goes through the side of
the piston, where it is attached to the connecting rod.
Timing
Timing refers to the delivery of the ignition spark, or the opening and
closing of the engine valves, depending on the piston's position, for the
power stroke. The timing chain is driven by a sprocket on the crankshaft and
also drives the camshaft sprocket.
Timiing Cha
ain/beltt
Push
h Rods
Push Rods
R attaach the va
alve lifterr to the ro
ocker arm
m. Through
h their
centers, oil is pumped
p to
o lubricate the valvves and ro
ocker arm
ms.
'
Serpentine Belts
A recent development is the serpentine belt, so named because they wind
around all of the pulleys driven by the crankshaft pulley.
This design saves space, but if it breaks, everything it drives comes to a
stop.
Harmonic Balancer
(Vibration Damper)
When the power from the cylinder hits the front of the crankshaft, it
tries to twist the heavy part of the damper, but ends up twisting the
rubber or discs connecting the two parts of the damper. The front of the
crank can't speed up as much with the damper attached; the force is used
to twist the rubber and speed up the damper wheel.
This keeps the crankshaft operation calm.
Engine Balance
Flywheel A 4 cylinder engine produces a power stroke every half crankshaft
revolution, an 8 cylinder, every quarter revolution. This means that a V8
will be smoother running than a 4. To keep the combustion pulses from
generating a vibration, a flywheel is attached to the back of the
crankshaft. The flywheel is a disk that is about 12 to 15 inches in
diameter. On a standard transmission car, the flywheel is a heavy iron disk
that doubles as part of the clutch system. On automatic equipped vehicles,
the flywheel is a stamped steel plate that mounts the heavy torque
converter.
The flywheel uses inertia to smooth out the normal engine pulses.
Heat
Heat is the unwanted byproduct. Engineers design a car to diffuse the
heat quickly and efficiently before it damages or melts the engine. Coolant
(also known as antifreeze), stored in the radiator, flows through passages in
the engine around the cylinders where it absorbs heat from the combustion
mixture. Coolant is part water, and part pure coolant (ethylene glycol), a
chemical makeup allowing optimum heat absorption. The coolant carries this
heat through hoses to the radiator where flowing air removes the heat,
restoring the coolant to its original temperature, and leaving it ready to
absorb more heat. This continuous closed cycle of heat transportation
prevents the engine from melting together or seizing up due to the
extremely high temperatures produced from combustion (1,000 degrees F+).
The water pump, running from the belt system, helps circulate this coolant.
When you need heat in the passenger area, you are asking that some of
this same heat be diverted to your space.
(By the way, coolant retains its "antifreeze" name because it also prevents
this water mixture from freezing up into an ice cube in the winter time.)
Oil, stored in the oil pan below the engine, flows through its own passages
in the engine's block absorbing and transferring heat. More importantly, oil
prevents heat buildup by reducing friction. If you rub your hands together,
note how quickly they generate heat and become warm. Friction produces
heat. If you were to cover your hands in vegetable oil first, the result of
rubbing would be little or no heat because direct contact between your
hands is reduced.
Vacuum
Engines run on a vacuum system.
The vapor recovery system uses the vacuum to trap fuel from the
carburetor float bowl and fuel tank in a canister. Starting the engine
causes the vacuum port in the canister to pull fresh air into the
canister to clean out the trapped fuel vapor.
Vacuum from the intake manifold creates the heated air system
that helps to warm up your carburetor when it's cold.
Many air conditioning systems use the vacuum from the intake
manifold to open and close air-conditioner doors to produce the
heated air and cooled air required inside your vehicle.
The intake valves rely on "valve timing" to open their ports at the correct
time for the air and fuel ingredients. Valve timing at this point is
mechanically controlled by the camshaft. But the spark plug needs to know
when to ignite the mixture, matching the valve openings, and so relies on
the "ignition timing" set by the car's computer.
You may not be computer literate, but your car is. All cars nowadays have a
computer tucked away under the dash or hood. Known as the powertrain
control module (PCM), this computer insists on the most precise
combustion mixture to insure the best gas mileage and reduce tailpipe
pollutants. The computer has its eyes and ears around the car via its
sensors which are strategically placed in order to capture certain data.
In this manner, the PCM controls the amount and timing of combustion
ingredients, and therefore, the final results.
This PCM
P also provides
p i
important
t data to you
y via yo
our dashboard gaug
ges,
needle
es, and lig
ghts.
in place
p of a gauge and vice verrsa,
or combine the two
t into one
o generral purpose dash ind
dicator.
Che
eck with your
y drive
er's manuual for an accurate understa
anding of your
y
specific gauges an
nd lights.
The oil gauge shown above reveals oil pressure. Some gauges show oil level
instead, some show an oil can
The battery gauge above indicates the battery charge, which should hover
between 12.6 and 14.5 volts. Anything over 14.5 volts is too much for your
car's computer.
then the ABS light may come on initially as the computer checks the
system.
It should then go out.
The same goes for the airbag light, again,
if your car is equipped with one or more airbags.
Pistons
Most common engines have 4, 6, or 8 pistons which move up and down in the
cylinders.
On the upper side of the piston is what is called the combustion chamber
where the fuel and air mix before ignited. On the other side is the
crankcase whic
ch is full of
o oil. Pistons have
e rings wh
hich serve e to keep the
t oil
out of
f the combustion chamber anda the fu uel and airr out of th
he oil.
See wh
here the pisston is loca
ated in The
e Engine
Click Heree
ENG
GINE
E SU
UBSYS
STEM
MS
An engine has a number of system ms that help it do its
i job of convertinng
fuel in
nto motion. Most of these subsystem ms can be implemennted using
g
differrent technologies, and bette
er technoologies can
n improve
e the
performance of f the engine. Here's a look at
a the diffferent su
ubsystems
used in
i modernn engines:
Ignition System
The ignition system produces a high-voltage electrical charge and transmits
it to the spark plugs via ignition wires.
The charge first flows to a distributor, which you can easily find under the
hood of most cars. The distributor has one wire going in the center and
four, six, or eight wires (depending on the number of cylinders)
coming out of it.
These ignition wires send the charge to each spark plug. The engine is
timed so that only one cylinder receives a spark from the distributor at a
time. This approach provides maximum smoothness.
Cooling System
Internal combustion engines must maintain a stable operating temperature,
not too hot and not too cold. With the massive amounts of heat that is
generated from the combustion process, if the engine did not have a
methood for coo
oling itself, it would quickly self-desttruct. Maajor enginne
parts can warp causing oil
o and water leaks and the oil o will boiil and bec
come
uselesss.
In a few
f cars, as
a well ass most bikkes, the en
ngine is air-cooled instead. You
Y
can te
ell an air-c
cooled engine by thhe fins ad
dorning thhe outsidee of each
cylind
der to helpp dissipatte the hea
at. Air-cooling makkes the en
ngine lightter
but hootter, gen ecreasing engine lif
nerally de fe and oveerall perfo
ormance.
Click here
h to exp
plore The Cooling
C Sysstem
Air Intake
I System
Most cars are normally aspirated
a d, which means
m thatt air flowss through
h an
air filter and directly
d in
nto the cy
ylinders.
High-performaance engin
nes are eitther turb
bo charged d or superr chargedd,
which means th
hat air coming into the engin
ne is firstt pressuriized (so that
more air / fuel mixture can be squeezed into each cylinder) to increase
performance. The amount of pressurization is called boost.
A turbo charger uses a small turbine attached to the exhaust pipe to spin a
compressing turbine in the incoming air stream. A super charger is
attached directly to the engine to spin the compressor.
The air filter and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve are important parts
of your vehicle's fuel system. The air filter provides clean air to a
vehicle's carburetion system, and if it becomes clogged or dirty, it can cause
your car to idle or run roughly and reduce gas mileage.
The PCV valve helps prevent the release of gas fumes from the engine. If
it becomes blocked or clogged, it can cause oil leaks and promote the
formation of sludge in the engine
Ex
xtends th
he life of your engiine
ncreases horsepow
In wer
Howw
do I change
c the
e darn tha
ang?
Air Cleaner Components
The air cleaner has two main components
The filter is the part inside the housing that cleans the air. The two basic
types of filters are the paper and oil-wetted polyurethane. Heavy duty
filters sometimes combine both types of filter types.
The filter element is made from pleated paper. The pleats provide the
maximum surface area for air to pass through. A fine mesh screen is used
to support the paper element and protect against the fire hazards of an
engine backfire. A top and bottom seal provides an airtight seal for the
filter in the housing. Sealing is important because any air that does not go
through the filter on the way into the engine could contain dirt.
Replacement air filters are available for most vehicles. The filter has a
part number printed on the filter box. Application charts are available in
auto parts stores that show what number filter fits any particular car.
Application charts are often printed on the filter box, too.
The filter element is located in a rectangular box called the air cleaner
housing.
To find a rectangular air cleaner,
follow the large air inlet hose away from your engine.
Find the air filter housing right near the beginning of the ductwork
Running your car with a clogged filter could result in hard stalling,
stalling and poor gas mileage. An air filter may become clogged or loaded
with contaminate quicker, depending on the nature of the area where
the vehicle is driven, such as dusty conditions.
Regarrdless of the
t mileag ge or time e, a filterr should be
b replace ed before it
reaches the pooint wheree it createes a signifficant resstriction to
t airflow
w.
But when
w exac
ctly that point
p is re
eached is subject to t opinionn.
Whenn inspectin
ng or chan
nging the air filterr element,, first look up the
procedure in th
he shop se
ervice ma
anual. The e manual will
w explain n the spec
cific
procedure for removing and replaacing the element.
and hoold it up to
t the sun n or to a strong
s lighht.
Can you
y see th he light sttreaming through
t itt?
If it'ss really ca
aked with
h dirt, it obviously
o n
needs to be replaced.
Tryingg to shake
e or blow the dirt out
o is a waste
w of time becau
use too much
of it will
w be em mbedded inn the filte
er fibers..
These are the three basic types of air filters; there are many slight
variations
Remove the lid by either prying off clips or clamps with a flathead
screwdriver; removing several large screws by hand or removing regular
sized screws with either type of screwdriver.
Again, there are three basic types of lid holders with other slight
variations out there.
Cars with carburetors or throttle body fuel injection often have a large
round air cleaner assembly mounted on top of the carburetor.
The filter is located inside the air cleaner housing.
Remove the filter lid, and lift out the filter.
Note the corrugated Paper usually faces downward.
How often should I replace my air filter?
Air filters have always required periodic maintenance. An automotive
engine runs much smoother when the air filter is clean. If the filter is
wet, damaged, or dirty, it should be replaced with a new one designed
specifically for your engine.
Running your car with a clogged filter could result in hard stalling,
stalling and poor gas mileage. An air filter may become clogged or loaded
with contaminate quicker, depending on the nature of the area where
the vehicle is driven, such as dusty conditions.
It's hard to give a specific time or mileage figure because the life of the
filter depends on how much crud it ingests. A filter that lasts 20,000 or
even 30,000 miles on a vehicle that's driven mostly on expressways may
last only a month or two in a rural setting where the vehicle is driven
frequently on gravel roads. Changing it annually or every 15,000 miles for
preventative maintenance may be a good recommendation for the city
driver, but not its country cousin.
A slightly dirty filter actually cleans more efficiently than a brand new
filter. That's because the debris trapped by the filter element helps
screen out smaller particles that try to get through. But eventually every
filter reaches the point where it causes enough of a pressure drop to
restrict airflow. Fuel economy, performance and emissions begin to
deteriorate and get progressively worse until the dirty filter is replaced.
When inspecting or changing the air filter element, first look up the
procedure in the shop service manual. The manual will explain the specific
procedure for removing and replacing the element.
To see
e whether your airr filter ne
eeds to be
e replaced
d, just liftt it out
(it isnn't fastenned down))
and hoold it up to
t the sun n or to a strong
s lighht.
Can you
y see th he light sttreaming through
t itt?
If it'ss really ca
aked with
h dirt, it obviously
o n
needs to be replaced.
Tryingg to shake
e or blow the dirt out
o is a waste
w of time becau
use too much
of it will
w be em mbedded inn the filte
er fibers..
DON
N'T CLE
EAN IT
T
CHA
ANGE
E IT!
It is better noot to try to
t clean the
t paper air filterr element;; instead,
replacce it with a new one e. Most paaper elem
ments are usually clleaned by y
tappinng them on the gro ound to shhake out the
t dirt orr by blowing them with
an air hose from the inside out. YouY can do o more ha arm than good
g by
attemmpting to clean
c the element this
t way, because once
o the filter is put
p
back in
i place an nd the enngine is started up, particless of dirt that
t weree
lodgedd in the element
e an
nd conseq quently loo
osened by y the tappping or airr
blowinng are succked into the engin ne. Abrasiive grit ca
an do lots of harm to an
enginee; in fact,, abrasive
e wear is the
t most common
c c
cause of engine
e failure
To heelp prevent it, DO NOTN atte
empt to cllean the air
a filter element.
e A air
An
filter element is relative ely inexpe
ensive andd is cheapp insurancce against the
ravagees of dirtt and grit..
Changing your car's filters on a regular basis can have a significant impact on
engine life and performance and is one of the easiest things you can do!
If you have an older car, the air filter is in a big round housing on top of
the engine. These are very simple to change.
Simply unscrew the wing nut holding the cover down and lift it off.
There may be three or four clips holding down the cover as well. Just
unsnap the clips as well.
Remove the top of the air cleaner by taking off a single wing nut as shown
below
Typical air cleaner assembly on a carburetor system
All you need do now is remove the old air filter and install the new one.
Make sure it is the right air filter for the car. If it is too big, the cover
will not go back on and if it is too small, the cover will not seal to the top
of the filter.
In newer cars, the air filters are generally rectangular in shape and
involve a little more work to get to. Look for a rectangular shaped
housing under the hood. It will usually be located on one of the fender
wells or over the radiator area. On most Chrysler 4 cylinder engines, it's
located between the engine and the firewall. Cover attachments vary; on
some there will be four or six screws around the outside edge.
Air filters of this type do not have a breather filter since the PCV
inlet is below the air filter. You should still check the PCV and be sure
it's in good shape.
Note that a black and oily-wet air filter signifies a problem with your
positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve.
Check and remedy the situation promptly before the oil contaminates your
sensors
A light coat of grease on the air cleaner gasket of an older car can improve
the seal between the air cleaner housing and the air filter element.
A few older automobiles have permanent air filters and you will need to
clean according to the instructions found in your owner's manual.
WARNING: The air filter gasket must fit correctly and seal properly. A
leak at the gasket means that air will go directly into the engine around
the gasket without going through the filter element. Abrasives can get into
the engine and shorten engine life.
You should change your air filter once a year or every 20,000 miles,
whichever comes first.
Unless yours gets very dirty before then.
Replace the crankcase breather filter at the same time if it's dirty.
Check the PCV valve and any related hoses whenever you check or replace
the air filter.
It's also a good idea to check the fuel filter, spark plugs, points,
condenser, cap, rotor and wires.
This filter is located in the air filter housing and can be checked at the
same time as the air filter.
Most breather elements come in a plastic holder with a fitting that goes
through the side of the air filter housing.
"Remove lid of air filter housing and remove air filter. Disconnect
crankcase breather hose. Remove metal clip and save, unless it is supplied
with the new element.
Install new breather element and secure with clip. Connect breather hose.
Replace air filter and lid of filter housing, and tighten wing nut.
Starting System
The starting system consists of an electric starter motor and a starter
solenoid. When you turn the ignition key, the starter motor spins the
engine a few revolutions so that the combustion process can start.
It takes a powerful motor to spin a cold engine. The starter motor must
overcome:
The energy needed to open and close valves with the cam shaft.
The lubrication system makes sure that every moving part in the engine
gets oil so that it can move easily. The two main parts needing oil are the
pistons (so they can slide easily in their cylinders) and any bearings that
allow things like the crankshaft and cam shafts to rotate freely.
In most cars oil is sucked out of the oil pan by the oil pump, run through
the oil filter to remove any grit, and then squirted under high pressure
onto bearings and the cylinder walls. The oil then trickles down into the
sump, where it is collected again and the cycle repeats.
Intro
Why it Matters What W does oiil actually doo?
Oil Pummp Oil Seaals Oil Diip Stick Oil O Filler Capp Oil Filter Oil Passsages Oil Pan
P
Choosinng The Righ ht Oil for Yoour Vehicle
Which Oil Do I Ch hoose? Whhich One is Better?
B
Why arre there diffe
ferent weightts of motor oil?
o
What abbout own-brrands?
Why Soo Many Oilss?
What iss the differennce between synthetic annd regular motor
m oil?
Premium m Conventio onal Oil Full
F Synthetiic Oil Synnthetic Blendd Oil Highher Mileage Oil
O
Viscosiity Index
Flushinng oils
Engine Additives
Should I use an oil additiveServvicing and chhecking
This image above shows the route taken by the oil within an engine. The oil
pump draws oil from the oil pan, then forces it through the filter, into the
crankshaft passage, through the connecting rods to the pistons and rings. Oil is
pushed through the lifters and pushrods, and covers the rocker arms.
It then flows back down into the pan to complete the cycle.
Why it Matters
Keeping your engine properly lubricated reduces friction, heat buildup, and
wear.
This means that good engine lubrication maintenance will help your engine run
better and last longer.
then seize!
So, yes, oil is important.
In the mid-80's to mid-90's there was a mini revolution in car engine oil. All oils are
no longer the same. Thanks to the increased popularity of sporty GTi's, 16 valve
engines and turbos, the days of one oil catering for everyone are over.
3. Absorb and suspend dirt and other particles. Dirt and carbon
particles need to be carried by the oil to the oil filter where they
can be trapped.
4. Neutralize acids that can build up and destroy polished metal surfaces.
5. Coat all engine parts. Oil should have the ability to leave a protective
coating on all parts when the engine is turned off to prevent rust and
corrosion.
There is an oil pressure sensor near the oil pump that monitors pressure
and sends this information to a warning light or a gauge on the dashboard.
When you turn the ignition key on, but before you start the car, the oil
light should light, indicating that there is no oil pressure yet, but also
letting you know that the warning system is working. As soon as you start
cranking the engine to start it, the light should go out indicating that
there is oil pressure.
What if It Does Not Go Off?
The oil pump is used to force pressurized oil to the various parts of the
engine.
Gear and rotary pumps are the most common types of pumps. The gear
pump consists of a driven spur gear and a driving gear that is attached to a
shaft driven by the camshaft. The two gears are the same size and fit
snugly in the pump body. Oil is carried from the inlet to the delivery side
of the pump by the opposite teeth of both gears. Here it is forced into the
delivery pipe. It can't flow back, because the space between the meshing
gear teeth is too tight.
The rotary pump is driven by the camshaft. The inner rotor is shaped like a
cross with rounded points that fit into the star shape of the outer rotor.
The inner rotor is driven by a shaft turned by the camshaft. When it
turns, its rounded points "walk" around the star shaped outer rotor and
force the oil out to the delivery pipe.
Oil Seals
Oil seals are rubber and metal composite items. They are generally
mounted at the end of shafts. They are used to keep fluids, such as oil,
transmission fluid, and power steering fluid inside the object they are
sealing. These seals flex to hold a tight fit around the shaft that comes
out of the housing, and don't allow any fluid to pass. Oil seals are common
points of leakage and can usually be replaced fairly inexpensively. However,
the placement of some seals make them very difficult to access, which
makes for a hefty labor charge!
The dip stick is held in a tube; the end of the tube extends into the oil
sump. It has measurement markings on it. If you pull it out, you can see
whether you have enough oil, or whether you need more by the level of oil
on the markings.
How to correctly find the dipstick and what it's markings mean
Oil Filler Cap
The oil filler cap is a plastic or metal cap that covers an opening into the
valve cover. It allows you to add oil when the dipstick indicates that you
need it. Some cars have the crankcase vented through the filler cap. Oil
which is added through the filler passes down through openings in the head
into the oil sump at the bottom of the engine.
How to locate the Oil Fill Cap
Oil Filter
Oil filters are placed in the engine's oil system to strain dirt and abrasive
materials out of the oil.
The oil filter cannot remove things that dilute the oil, such as gasoline and
acids. Removing the solid material does help cut down on the possibility of
acids forming. Removing the "grit" reduces the wear on the engine parts.
Modern passenger car engines use the "full flow" type of oil filters. With
this type of filter, all of the oil passes through the filter before it
reaches the engine bearings. If a filter becomes clogged, a bypass valve
allows oil to continue to reach the bearings. The most common type of oil
filter is a cartridge type. Oil filters are disposable; at prescribed
intervals, this filter is removed, replaced and thrown away.
HOW TO CHANGE YOUR OIL FILTER
Most states now require that oil filters be drained completely before
disposal, which adds to the cost of an oil change, but helps to reduce
pollution.
Oil Passages
Within the engine is a variety of pathways for oil to be sent to moving
parts. These pathways are designed to deliver the same pressure of fresh
lubricating oil to all parts. If the pathways become clogged, the affected
parts will lock together. This usually destroys parts that are not
lubricated, and often ruins the entire engine.
The oil passages are cleverly drilled into the connecting parts of the
engine, which allows the highly mobile ones (like the pistons) to have ample
lubrication. Originating at the oil pump, they flow through all of the major
components of the engine. In the case of the pistons and rods, the
passages are designed to open each time the holes in the crankshaft and
rods align.
Oil Pan
At the bottom of the crankcase is the container containing the lifeblood of
the engine. Usually constructed of thin steel, it collects the oil as it flows
down from the sides of the crankcase. The pan is shaped into a deeper
section, where the oil pump is located. At the bottom of the pan is the
drain plug, which is used to drain the oil. The plug is often made with a
magnet in it, which collects metal fragments from the oil.
Choosing The Right Oil for Your Vehicle
Many people don't know how to select motor oil that will help them get
optimum performance out of their car.
Some people often simply select the oil their father used, others may take
the suggestion of a counter person at an auto parts store who may not
know any more about cars than you do and the majority of others simply
grab any ol' quart(s) of oil on the shelf without thinking or knowing any
better.
There are meaningful differences in motor oils and choosing the right one
can have a major impact on how well your car runs. Selecting the right oil is
often the quickest and cheapest way to improve your car's performance
and reliability.
You are not going to save money by using an off-brand oil because your
engine will wear out sooner. Use oil that meets the American Pertroleum
Institute (API) classification SL. .
If you are changing your oil just before winter, use SAE 10W30 weight oil.
This number means the oil will have a thin 10 weight viscosity when the
engine is cold, helping the engine to start easier, and then the oil will
thicken to 30 weight viscosity when the engine warms up, protecting the
engine better. If you are changing oil just before summer, use SAE 10W40
weight oil. The extra 40 weight viscosity will protect your engine better
when it's hot.
Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts and thick enough when
the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when
cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils.
These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements
of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil. You will
hear them referred to as multi-viscosity, all-season and all-weather oils.
An example is a 10W-30 which is commonly found in stores. When choosing
oil, always follow the manufacturer's recommendation.
For most passenger car and light truck gasoline engines today,
it's any oil that meets the American Petroleum Institutes "API" rating.
Quality Counts!
It doesn't matter what sort of fancy marketing goes into an engine oil, how many naked babes
smear it all over their bodies, how bright and colourful the packaging is,
it's what's written on the packaging which counts.
Specifications and approvals are everything.
The API (American Petroleum Institute) an established testing body, will have their stamp of
approval to be seen on the side of every reputable can or bottle of engine oil.
For grade, you need to look at the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) ratings. These
describe the oil's function and viscosity standard. Viscosity means the substance and clinging
properties of the lubricant. Motor oil is classified in two ways by the
American Petroleum Institute (API) and by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). The API
created and maintains a series of "service classifications" for motor oil, based on the oil's
performance in certain types of engines. The API service classification is listed on each container
of motor oil, and it's easy to match it to the recommendations in your owner's manual.
API Service Classifications: Briefly, the API service classifications are a 2-letter
rating, beginning with the letter "S" or the letter "C" and followed by a letter from "A"
through "J." "S" stands for "service" and designates an oil primarily for gasoline
engines. "C" stands for "commercial" and indicates an oil for diesel engines. Many oils
meet the requirements of both series and have a dual service classification, such as
SH/CD.
The seervice classification raating system
m began in the early 1970s.
1 The earliest S-
fication oilss were SA, SB, SC, annd SD. Youu can think of the succcessive seccond
classifi
letters--A, B, C, D,
D and so onn-as indicatting increasingly highher quality. In fact, each
successive service classificaation has beeen an improvement on o previouss classifications
and exxceeds the earlier
e perfo
formance reequirements. Althoughh some low w-cost oils rated
r
SA or SB can stilll be found in some stores, servicce classificcations SA through
t SFF are no
longer recommen nded for usee by most vehicle
v mannufacturerss. SG, SH, and SJ oilss can
be usedd in older engines
e andd should bee used in all late-modeel engines because
b theey
lubricaate and prottect better under
u T SJ classification is
all opperating coonditions. The
recomm mended forr 1996 and newer gasoline enginnes and cann be used inn any earlieer
enginee.
SAE Viscosity
V Ratings: Viscosityy refers to how
h "thick"" or "thin" a liquid is, or how
easily it pours.
When an oil is co old its viscoosity increaases, and it does not fllow easily. If you use high-
viscosiity oil in lo
ow-temperaature weathher, heavilyy loaded enggine parts willw not recceive
oil until the engine warms and the oil thins. Hot oil, on the other hand, is thin and flows
easily. Low-viscosity oil in an engine running at very high temperature may break
down and allow moving parts to rub against each other. This can cause rapid engine
wear and possible damage. Today, most carmakers recommend multi-viscosity oils
such as 5W-30 and 10W-30. Check your owner's manual to see what's recommended
for your car.
Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 anymore, and some threaten to void
warranties if it is used. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a
heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job.
Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are
appropriate for your vehicle.
Modern metallurgy allows engineers to build engines with tighter clearances between
moving parts than was possible in the past. These modern engine designs offer
improved fuel economy, emission control, and performance, but they require motor oil
that provides immediate lubrication to close-tolerance parts. High-viscosity oil may
delay critical lubrication right after startup, even in hot weather. This can lead to
premature engine wear and reduced operating efficiency. The best advice for selecting
a motor oil that is right for your car is to follow the manufacturer's recommendations
for the general climate in which you drive.
The Starburst Symbol: A new motor oil rating system was introduced in 1993 by
the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC). Oils
that meet the ILSAC standards for gasoline engines in cars and light trucks may display
the ILSAC starburst symbol on the container. The ILSAC starburst does not replace
API and SAE ratings. It is intended to help car owners select oil that meets all of the
operating requirements for vehicles built since 1993. Many owners' manuals for 1993
and later cars and light trucks list the ILSAC starburst symbol along with the
recommended API and SAE ratings.
Have you ever wondered what all the letters and numbers on an oil bottle
mean? They stand for different oil weights. For example, a bottle that
reads "SAE30W", assures that the oil conforms to the SAE's (Society of
Automotive Engineers) oil weight or viscosity standards. The "30W"
represents the oil weight, and the lower the number, the thinner the oil.
Use low numbers in cold weather, higher numbers in warm climates.
Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after
the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings
have no letter (example SAE 30).
You can buy oils in single grades for warm or cold weather driving.
However, most people prefer multigrades which suit your car during all
seasons.
At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low
numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains
that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at
100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number
indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20
weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
It is important to use the correct motor oil weight to reduce wear on your
engine. The optimum oil weight for your car depends on the climate you live
in, your vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, your driving conditions
and the maximum fuel economy you want out of your car
(the lower the weight of the oil, the greater the fuel efficiency).
You can determine the best oil weight for your vehicle
by checking your owner's manual.
Choosing the right oil for your vehicle is easy.
Just ask yourself the following questions:
• What kind of oil have you been using? If you have an old vehicle
that's been running on single-weight oil for most of its life, it's built
up quite a bit of sludge because some single-weight oils don't have
detergent in them. If you suddenly switch to a multi-viscosity oil, the
detergent in it will free all that gook in your engine, and the gook will
start to slosh around and really foul things up. It's better to let
sleeping gook lie unless you want to invest in having your engine
cleaned. The engine would have to be taken apart and put back
together again, and you could start trouble where none existed
before. If your car is running well, don't switch to another oil. Stick
with the same old stuff you've been using.
• How old is the oil in your car? How many miles have you driven
it? If your car has been logging a great many miles and has been
running on 30- or 40-weight oil, multi-weight oil is not going to be
consistently thick enough to lubricate the worn engine parts, which
have become smaller while wearing down, leaving wider spaces
between them. To keep the oil thick enough to fill these gaps, switch
to heavier single-weight oil as your car gets older and starts to run
more roughly or to burn up oil more quickly. If you've been running on
30-weight oil, switch to 40-weight, at least during the summer, when
oil tends to thin out.
• Do you live where it's very cold? Hot? Is it mountainous? Are
there sharp changes in temperature where you live or where
you're going? Multi-weight oils cover a range of temperatures.
Consult a viscosity chart to be sure that the oil you use will flow
properly under extreme conditions.
• Whenever you buy oil, look for major brands, such as Pennzoil,
Quaker State, and Valvoline, or check Consumer Reports. Good
brands of oil are often on sale in supermarkets and at auto supply
stores, so if you want to save money and you spot a sale, buy a case
and stash it away.
• In general, liquid lubricants (ie. oils, not greases) will remain intact for a number of years.
The main factor affecting the life of the oil is the storage condition for the products.
Exposure to extreme temperature changes, and moisture will reduce the shelf life of the
lubricants.
- for example: don't leave in the sun with the lid off. Best to keep them sealed and
unopened.
• Technically, engine oils have shelf lives of four to five years. However, as years pass,
unused engine oils can become obsolete and fail to meet the technical requirements of
current engines. The specs get updated regularly based on new scientific testing procedures
and engine requirements. But this is only really a concern if you've bought a brand new car
but have engine oil you bought for the previous car. An oil that is a number of years old
might not be formulated to meet the requirements set for your newer engine.
If you can't afford the big-name players such as Pennzoil, Quaker State,
and Valvoline, you could look at own-brand oils. These are usually badged
oils from one of those larger companies but sold without the name, they
are cheaper.
Check the standards and grade ratings on the pack first!!!
And just make sure it isn't a 20W/50 oil (which a lot are because it's
cheap) unless your car is old enough to warrant it.
Many synthetic oils are silicon based polymers rather than carbon based.
Silicon has similar properties to carbon in these systems, but sometimes
provide better properties at high temperatures such as in a car. Silicone is
used on many substitutes for carbon such as in glues, caulks and gaskets.
Both methods take energy to give the final product. Synthetics are
probably more expensive based on the cost of the raw materials. Crude oil
is cheap. Also note that regular motor oil can have synthetic components
added. The term synthetic is used when the major component is synthetic.
You also may have noticed some loss of performance and engine
smoothness as a result of engine wear on your higher-mileage vehicle.
These higher-mileage oils also have somewhat higher viscosities.
(Even if the numbers on the container don't indicate it, there's a fairly
wide range for each viscosity rating and the higher-mileage oils sit at the
top of each range.)
They also may have more viscosity-index improvers in them. The result?
They seal piston-to-cylinder clearances better, and won't squeeze out as
readily from the larger engine bearing clearances. They also may have a
higher dose of antiwear additives to try to slow the wear process.
If you have an older vehicle, all of these features may mean more to you
than what you might get from a full synthetic, and at a fraction the price.
Viscosity Index
Resistance to thinning with increasing temperature is called viscosity
index. And although a higher second number is good, the oil also has to be
robust. That is, it must be able to last for thousands of miles until the
next oil change. For example, oil tends to lose viscosity from shear, the
sliding motion between close-fitted metal surfaces of moving parts such as
bearings. So resistance to viscosity loss (shear stability) is necessary to
enable the oil to maintain the lubricating film between those parts.
The base oil package in any oil makes up anywhere from 70 to 95 percent
of the mix, the rest comprised of additives. Does that mean an oil with
just 70 percent base oils is better than one with 95 percent. No, because
some of the base oils have natural characteristics or ones that derive from
their processing, which reduces or eliminates the need for additives. And
although some additives make important contributions to lubrication, by
themselves don't necessarily have great lubricity.
Now, keeping an oil from thinning as it gets hot while it takes a beating
from engine operation is one thing. But it's also important to keep oil from
getting too thick. Using premium base oils for low volatility (to prevent
evaporation) is one approach. Evaporation of the base oil package not only
increases oil consumption, it results in thicker oil (which decreases fuel
economy).
Flushing oils
These are special compound oils that are very, very thin. They almost have
the consistency of tap water when cold as well as hot. Typically they are
0W/20 oils.
Don't ever drive with these oils in the engine - it won't last.
Their purpose is for cleaning out all the gunk which builds up inside an
engine. Note that Mobil1 0W40 is okay, because the '40' denotes that it's
actually thick enough at temperature to work. 0W20 just doesn't get that
viscous!
To use them:
• Drain your engine of all it's oil, but leave the old oil filter in place.
• Next fill it up with flushing oil and run it at a fast idle for about 20 minutes.
• Finally, drain all this off, replace the oil filter, refill with a good synthetic oil.
. . . and voila
Clean engine!
In an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits.
Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the
flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets
are thin.
I have heard of engines with over 180,000 miles that worked fine, but
when flushed it failed in a month because the blow-by past the scraper
ring (now really clean) contaminated the oil and screwed the rod bearings.
Engine Additives
T.V. commercial:
Announcer: Every time you cold start your car without Slick 50 protection, metal grinds against
metal in your engine.
Announcer: With each turn of the ignition you do unseen damage, because at cold start-up most of
the oil is down in the pan.
Video: Shows a box of Slick 50, and then shows a bottle of Slick 50 being poured into a funnel.
Announcer: But Slick 50's unique chemistry bonds to engine parts. It reduces wear up to 50% for
50,000 miles.
Video: A large heavy ball is dropped down onto the car and demolishes it.
Video: Shows three different boxes of Slick 50 and then shows the demolished car.
Announcer: Slick 50's engine formula, the world's number one selling engine treatment.
No ,
absolutely not,
NEVER!
Consider further that some oil companies actually make a point of telling
you not to use aftermarket additives with their oils.
Servvicing and
a che
ecking
For thhe love of
f your vehhicle don'tt skimp onn either of
o these.
You can
c never check your engine oil too ofte en. Use thhe dipstick - that'ss what
it's th
here for - and don''t run below the 'm min' mark.. Below thhat, there e isn't
enouggh oil for the
t pump to be able to supp ply the topp of the engine
e while
keepinng a reserrve in the
e sump. All oils, no matter
m whhat their type, are e made
of lon
ng-chainedd molecule es which get
g shearred into sh horter chhains in a
runninng engine. This in turn meanss that the e oil begin
ns to lose
e its viscossity
over time,
t and it uses up
p the additives in itt that preevent scuffing between
cams and follow wers, ring
gs and cylinder wallls etc, etcc, etc.
When n this hap
ppens, freesh oil is the
t key.
And don't worry about the engine oil turning black. It will lose its golden-
brown color within a few hundred miles of being put in to the engine. That
doesn't mean it's not working. Quite the contrary - it means it is working
well.
It changes color as it traps oxidized oil, clots and the flakes of metal that
pop off heavily loaded engine parts.
Just don't leave it too long between oil changes.
Checking your car's oil regularly is one of the most important ways to
preserve the life of the engine, and can save you a lot of money in
expensive repairs down the road.
Driving with the oil level too low can damage the engine.
An engine cannot run without oil, not even for a minute, without serious
engine damage occurring.
Checking the oil in your car's engine is the most basic AND SIMPLE under
the hood check and one of the most important.
Except for a few luxury cars with electronic oil level sensors,
checking the oil in your car's engine is done as it has been for generations:
by removing a dipstick from the engine and inspecting the oil level on the
end of the stick
(not to be confused with transmission - which also has a dipstick)
Check the engine oil on the dipstick periodically, especially if you own a late
model used vehicle. Driving even 20 - 30 miles with extremely low oil level
may result in expensive engine repair.
1. If the oil light goes on, pull over as quickly and safely as you can.
2. Turn off the engine.
3. Put on your hazard lights and open the hood.
4. Check the oil
If the oil is not low, call a tow truck.
Do NOT DRIVE
with the oil light on!
5. Add oil if it is low.
Add oil as specified in your owner’s manual,
or look for a tag under the hood of your car as to type of oil to use.
Oil is an important item that should be kept in your vehicle at all times - See More
6. Restart the engine and check the light.
7. It is OK to drive if the light is now off.
8. Check the oil again in a few hours and over the next few days.
If it is consistently low, there is a leak. See your mechanic!
Steps:
1. Check the oil when the engine is warm. Oil expands when it's hot and
contracts when it's cold; different temperatures will give you different readings.
Before checking the oil level, the engine has to be turned off
The oil must be given a few minutes to run off engine parts and collect back into the oil
pan. If you check the oil level just after shutdown, you could get an inaccurate oil level
reading.
A good time to check the oil is before you start the car for the day. At that time,
you can be sure that the oil has fully drained into the engine oil pan.
Remember, though, that the car must be level for an accurate check.
4. Find the dipstick (under the hood), a long piece of metal sticking out of the
engine usually with a loop at one end and is usually mounted on the side of the
engine.
Many manufacturers have the handle of the dipstick painted a bright color
(usually YELLOW) so it can be easily found.
Others may have a "T" handle, or are incorporated into the fill cap.
CAAUTION: AlwaysA maake sure thee hood propp rod (if appplicable) is
properly seeated beforre you go under
u the hoood. If the prop
p rod shhould slip out,
o the
hood couldd fall and cause
c injuryy.
6. Wipe thhe oil off thhe dipstick with a paper towel orr shop rag.
7. Replacee the clean dipstick, making
m suree to push it all the wayy in, then pull
p it
back out an
nd hold it horizontally
h y in front of
o you.
Is it beetter to ma
aintain myy engine's oil
o level at the full mark
m or wait until it reaches
r
the "aadd" mark k to add oill?
Most vehicle manufacturers say it's okay to wait until the level reaches the add mark to
add oil. But considering that the crankcase capacity on most passenger cars today is
only four quarts, running the engine 25% low on oil (one quart) may not be wise.
The best advice, therefore, is to add oil whenever the dipstick reads low. Don't wait
until it is down a full quart. If it needs half a quart, add half a quart to bring it back up
to the full mark.
Always replace your oil with the same type and brand!
Your owner's manual will tell you what type of motor oil your engine requires.
If you do not have The Owners Manual:
To determine what kind of oil to use, sometimes you can read the dipstick or look at the
oil filler cap. You should see something like 5/30, 5W30, 10/30, 10W30.
You can also contact your nearest auto parts store or qualified mechanic.
Oil is an important item that should be kept in your vehicle at all times - See More
You should not add oil unless the level is below the "ADD" or "LOW" mark
and NEVER add oil to bring the level above the "FULL" mark since too much
oil may do damage.
Adding too much oil can overfill the crankcase. As the crankshaft spins around, it can
whip the oil into foam if the level is too high. This, in turn, can cause a drop in oil
pressure and loss of lubrication to critical engine parts. Also, too much oil may cause
leaks as the extra oil is forced past seals and gaskets.
9. Add the oil by unscrewing the oil filler cap, should be a knob that says "oil.",
which is about 3 inches in diameter and located on the very top of the engine
usually found on one of the valve covers.
Unscrew it and pour in the amount and type of oil recommended for
your car. Look in your manual for the location of the knob if it's not
obvious and for what type of oil to use.
Add oil as specified in your owner’s manual, or look for a tag under the hood of your
car as to type of oil to use.
Motor oil is rated by a thickness rating (viscosity) over a specified temperature
range. Most cars will call out oil with ratings such as 10W-30.
Inappropriate Oil
could void warranty
Many new cars have certain grades of oil. Check your owner's manual for
the proper grade. If you use the wrong grade of oil, it will void your
warranty! For example, if you use 10W30 and your car requires 5W20, it
will void the warranty if any problems arise with your engine.
10. Check the oil level with the dipstick after adding oil. Add more if necessary.
It's easier to add more oil but fairly difficult to remove oil if you add too much.
11. Put the oil filler cap back on and secure it tightly.
If the engine oil on the dipstick is white (or the color of coffee- with-
milk) or foamy, it means the engine coolant mixes with the engine oil, which
is evidence of an internal engine defect (such as a blown head gasket or
cracked block). Such defect is common for some V6 and V8 engines.
Also, the oil should never have a gasoline smell.
If the oil is white or has white specks in it, this means the engine coolant
is mixing with the engine oil because of an internal engine problem.
Have your car inspected.
There is evidence that more than 70% of all problems with hydraulic
systems can be traced directly to the condition of the oil.
Is there is water in the oil, the oil must be replaced, as this not only
damages the ball and roller bearings but also causes corrosion of all steel
surfaces. This especially applies to those surfaces touched by the oil, for
in addition to water, oxygen is present and this promotes rust. A further
danger is the reduction of the operative area of filters and the consequent
increase in the abrasiveness of the oil.
You can
go here and test for contamination in your motor oil
The whole debate about exactly when to change your oil is somewhat of a
grey area. Manufacturers tell you every 7,500 miles under normal
conditions. "What the heck are normal conditions?" Your mechanic tells you
every 3,000 miles. Old man Billy Bob with the bad breath and false teeth,
who drives a 1962 Chevy pick up tells you he's never once changed the oil in
his truck and she runs great!
Consider this:
Are You a Severe Driver?
You may be surprised to learn that the vast majority of people are.
If one or more of these conditions apply to your driving habits, then you
are a severe driver and should maintain your vehicle according to the
severe maintenance schedule outlined in your owner’s manual.
This means more frequent oil changes, usually at least every 3,000 miles.
In All Reality . . .
You can never change your engine oil too frequently.
The more you do it, the longer the engine will last!
Despite advances in motor oil technology, no oil will perform
indefinitely.
Motor oil becomes contaminated with combustion by-
products, dirt and water vapor, causing its chemical additives
to wear out.
Inappropriate Oil
could void warranty
Many new cars have certain grades of oil. Check your owner's manual for
the proper grade. If you use the wrong grade of oil, it will void your
warranty! For example, if you use 10W30 and your car requires 5W20, it
will void the warranty if any problems arise with your engine.
Steps:
1. Open the hood and look for obvious signs of wetness. Oil leaks usually
come from a gasket: a piece of material, usually rubber, cork or silicone,
that creates a seal between two metal parts.
Look for places where different parts of the engine are bolted together.
2. Inspect underneath the car with a flashlight for signs of wetness. Oil
here could be from a leak under the engine, or it could be collecting from a
leak higher up. Wipe the suspect areas clean with a rag so you can inspect
them closely and pinpoint the leak's source.
4. Place a large piece of cardboard on the ground under the engine. Make
marks on the cardboard to indicate its location in relation to the tires and
the car's front and rear. Leave it in place overnight. Use rocks to hold it
down if you park outside.
(Some oil leaks occur only when the engine is running, but the cardboard
method described here will still help locate these kind of leaks, because
the oil will drip down.)
6. You may find other types of leaks. Motor oil out of the bottle is the
color of honey. Oil that has been in the engine for a little while is dark
brown or even black.
Coolant is green and smells sweet.
Brake fluid is very light brown (almost clear) and very slippery. Automatic-
transmission fluid and power-steering fluid are usually red.
If you have a leak, be extra vigilant about checking all fluids regularly.
You can
c save time and money.
m
You don't
d have
e to wait in
i line at the
t servic ce garagee or quick oil
chang
ge shop.
For ten bucks you can get
g the be est oil and
d a brand new oil fiilter.
Can you
y trust oneo of the ese placess?
And, it's so ea
asy to do that
t you could
c train a monke
ey to do itt.
How
w To Ch
hange Your
Y Oiil
Optional:
A socket wrencch
Rubber glovess
TIP:
Befoore work begins, coat your haands with a thicck layer of liquuid dishwashingg detergent andd rub into yourr skin.
When
W the job is over, you will be amazed at how
h clean yourr hands will waash
or
Accquire a supply
y of thin latex rubber
r gloves to
t wear while you y work arouund the oil/greaase on the vehiccle.
1. Chhoose your oil - Addd oil as specified
s in your ow
wners manual, or lo
ook
for a tag underr the hood
d of your car as to type of oil
o to use.
DO NOT T USE
oil addittives!
WHY?
?
2. Possition the
e car - make
m sure that you're on levvel ground
d.
If you ca
an't afforrd or simp
ply do not wish to purchase
p a set, you can
rent them
m from se everal Autto Storess or otherr Tool Ren
ntal Deale
ers.
You can also
a make your own
3. Drain the old oil - watch out for hot oil! It's not a bad idea to wear
safety glasses or even prescription glasses.
CAUTION:
Empty your oil, not your crank case
Oil should be changed hot, which means as soon as possible after the car
has been driven at operating temperature. If the car is parked for a long
period before oil is changed, it allows the oil to cool and gives particles of
dirt and water time to stick to parts of the engine. When the oil is
drained, the dirt and water stay in the engine.
CAUTION:
Empty your oil, not your crank case
oil plug
ugs
Now unsc
crew the plug
p
(counter--clockwise
e)
[Righty-Tigh
hty - Lefty-L
Loosey]
with the wrench.
(If the wrench
w slip
ips and sta
tarts to roound off the
t bolt head,
h try a
socket wrench
wr inst
stead.)
The oil will strea am out rap
pidly, so be
b careful. Chancess are, the
e plug
will fall in
nto the pa
an along with
w the oil. Don't worry
w whe
en it happ
pens.
When
n all the oil has drained into the pan, fish
f t plug (here's
out the (h wh
here
rubbe
er gloves come
c in handy)
ha
The drain
d plug should be
e cleaned and inspe
ected for wear in the
t thread
d
area.
Replac
acement drain
dr plugss are availilable thatt are sligh
htly overssize with self-
s
taping
g threadss. If you find
f a drai
ain plug tha
hat has crooss threaads or willl not
tighte
en properrly, you wiill have too install ann oversize
e drain pluug. These
e come
with a gasket to
t help th hem seal anya leaks.
Originnal equipm
ment drainn plugs ha ave a sealiing washe
er that fitts on the drain
plug. The
T sealin ng washerr is made of soft metal,
m such
h as alumiinum, and may
even have
h a sea
alant applied to itss surface. The purp pose of th
he washerr is to
prevent leaks around
a the drain plug.
Alwayys install a new se ealing wassher.
Oil helps to equalize temperatures in your engine by traveling from hot areas to cooler
areas. Gradually, engine heat evaporates lighter components of the oil, causing it to
oxidize and thicken. In addition, oil picks up contamination: soot from the piston rings,
metal filings, dirt and grit that get past the air filter and othercontaminants from normal
operation of your engine.
Fortunately, your oil filter acts as a second-line defense for fighting these contaminants.
It prevents dirt and other contaminants from damaging internal engine parts by
constantly cleaning the oil as it flows through your engine.
My ve
ehicle doesn't have on
ne!
Click Here
H
HOW TO
T REM
MOVE A STUBBORN
N OIL FILTER
R
If yoou ever changed
c yo car'ss motor oil
your il, you mayy have expperiencedd how
diffiicult it can
an be at tiimes to re
emove thee filter. It's
It oily annd slippery
ry and
the wrench
w do
oesn't gett a good grip,
g so try
ry this: Plaace a strip
ip of sandp
dpaper
(grit side againnst filter)
r) betweenn the wrenench and the
t filter to stop itt from
slip
pping. Youu'll be amaazed at hoow much easier
e andd quicker the job goes.
g
FOR OLDER
O CARS & TR RUCKS
Older model
m carss may have a cartridgee-style filteer, contained within a metal canisster.
The caanister is heeld onto thee mount byy means of a bolt throuugh its centtre. Removve the
filter by
b loosening the bolt. Dump the old cartridgge into youur drain pann and cleann the
can thooroughly with
w solventt and a brussh. Install thet new filtter elementt in the can and
lube thhe gasket with
w engine oil. Make sure that thhe old gasket has beenn removed, and
reinstaall the filterr can
Dip youur fingertip in the old
o oil
(convenieent) or take a few drops froom a
new quart of oil (ccleaner). Use
U it to
lubricatee the circu
ular edge of the neew
filter, wh
here it will contactt the meta
al
engine suurface.
Neverr
u a filterr wrench too put one on
use o
5. Ad
dd New Oil
O -
Avoid overfillin
ng and bu
urst sealss
Screw the
t knob back on anda wipe the
t area clean
c with the rag. Close
the hood and startt the engiine.
Pour the
t oil outt of the pan,
p and ussing the funnel,
f ansfer it to the em
tra mpty
oil botttles or milk
m containers. Tak ke the useed oil to the
t motorr oil recyccler
y found . . .
that you
"You did
d find one, right??"
Filterrs need to
o be recyc
cled right along witth your mo
otor oil.
Procedure
2. Trying to use the wrong oil because it's what they have in bulk. Insist on
the oil that is specified on your filler cap and in your manual.
5. Selling overpriced, and often low quality, parts such as wiper blades and
washer fluid, PCV valves, thermostats, etc. Never let a quick-lube place do
any mechanical work on your vehicle.
6. Using poor quality filters. You really want to bring your own filter, from
the dealer, with you when you go to a quick-lube place. They may take $1 or
$2 off the price if you do this but don't count on it.
7. If you have a vehicle that actually still has Zerk fittings to lubricate
then be sure that they actually lubricate these fitting. Most cars no longer
require lubrication but some trucks still do.
8. Do not let a quick-lube place change or add any fluids other than oil. No
transmission fluid, no brake fluid, no power steering fluid, no antifreeze,
no oil additives, no fuel additives. It is just too easy for them to use the
wrong fluid and cause permanent damage to your vehicle.
Click Here
Engine Flushes
The Latest Scam
M
Make a notte of yourr last oil change.
c
Always buy
y from rec
cognized dealers and outletss.
OIL RECYC
CLING
DISPO
OSING USED MOTO
OR OIL
Did yo
ou know . . .
If you recycle ju
ust two galllons of ussed oil it ca
an genera
ate enough
h electricitty to
run the average
e househo
old for almo
ost 24 hou
urs.
Each month
m mo
ore than 16
1 million gallons of
f used oil is disposeed improp perly.
It is estimated
e d that lesss than 15%
% of Do-iit-yoursellf oil chan
ngers prop perly
recycle their oil. The re
emaining 85%
8 of the people dump
d the oil into
sewerrs, on the ground, and
a into the trash.
SOME
E DOS AND DON'TS
S:
1. NEVVER dispo
ose used motor
m oil: on the grround; in a ditch, creek, rive
er, or
lake; in
i a storm
m sewer; or
o in the garbage.
g
2. DO
O NOT mix x used mootor oil with anything else, such
s as ga
asoline,
solven
nts, antifrreeze, pessticides, etc.
e
3. Tra
ansfer you
ur used motor
m oil to
t a clean leak-prooof plastic containerr with
a scre
ew-on top (milk jug, empty oil container, etc.) and
a put th he top on
firmly
y to preve
ent leaking
g or spilling.
4. Conntact a loccal gas station, garrage, or oil change station inn your city to ask
ey will take your used oil. Mo
if the ost compa anies that work witth used mo otor
fluidss will accept the used oil. Butt, always check witth them first.
f Don't
keep the
t used oil around d longer than necesssary as you
y risk pu uncturing the
container the longer you u store it..
A FEW
W FACTS
S ABOUT
T USED MOTOR
M O
OIL
Itt takes 42
2 gallons of
o crude oil to produce 2.5 quarts
q of
f motor oil, but
only one
o gallon of used motor
m oil to
t be re-rrefined in
nto the sa
ame amounnt of
reusable motorr oil.
Two gallons
g of used oil can
c provid
de electric
city to ru
un the ave
erage houssehold
for ap
pproximattely 24 hoours.
The United
T d States produces
p 1.3 billion
n gallons of
o waste oil
o each ye
ear,
of which 800 million
m galllons are recycled.
r
Fo
our quarts of impro
operly dissposed oil can ruin a million gallons
g of
f
freshwater - a year's supply
s for 50 people
Oil is harm
O mful to aquuatic life.
For ex
xample, oil kills org
ganisms inn the wate
er that fish rely on
n as a foo
od
source
e.
Unfortunately, most used oil filters are not recycled, so the oil they
contain is released into the environment. Ninety percent of do-it-
yourselfers throw their filters in the trash, sending about 10 million
gallons of used oil to landfills every year.
Puncture domed part of the oil filter with a sharp tool. Drain filters on a
rack while they are "hot" for 12 hours.
Americans change over 400 million oil filters a year! These filters have a
high steel content and additional motor oil, both easily recycled. If all of
the oil filters manufactured in 1994 had been recycled, an estimated
161,500 tons of steel could have been recovered and 17.8 million gallons of
used oil would have been kept out of our fields and waterways.
To find out where
w to re
ecycle
ed Oil Filtters in yourr city,
Use
To f
find out whhere to reccycle click here
U
Used Oil in
n your city
y,
click here
Othe
er rela
ated top
pics wh
hile serrving yo
our Eng
gine Oil
Chang
ge the breeather filter, check it often
n.
ace it every 10,000
Repla 0 to 15,00
00 miles.
Chang
ge the pcvv filter, ch
heck it of
ften;
repla
ace it everry 10,000 to 15,0000 miles.
Chang
ge the egrr valve sollenoid filtter, every
y 15,000 miles,
m or every
e tune
e up.
OTHE
ER CHECK
KS you sho
ould perfo
orm . . .
Chang
ge a fuel filter,
f eve
ery 10,000
0 to 15,00
00 miles.
ONCE
E A YEAR
Chang
ge the cha nister filter, every tune-up.
arcoal can
Personally, I'd go ahead and check the windshield washer reservoir, the
power steering reservoir, the brake master cylinder . . .if it is fluid, I'd
check it.
Your car's chassis provides a smooth ride, supports the weight of your car
and enables it to turn corners. In order to keep it working smoothly,
however, the chassis must be properly lubricated.
Some models have a sealed chassis, which has no zerks. A sealed chassis
requires less maintenance; the joints are Teflon-coated and do not require
grease.
OIL SHORTAGE
Fuel System
The fuel system m pumps fuel
f m the fuel tank and mixes it with air
from
hat the proper air/f
so th fuel mixture can flow into the
t cylinde ers.
Fuel is delivered in thre
ee commoon ways:
carburretion,
port fu
uel injectio
on
and
direct fuel injecttion.
In a fuel
f injectted enginee the righ
ht amountt of fuel iss injected
d individuaally
into each
e cylind
der eitherr right ab
bove the intake valvve (port fuel
f injecttion)
or dirrectly intoo the cylin
nder (dire
ect fuel in
njection).
Exha
aust Sy
ystem
Exhauust, the ga
arbage off the whole piston process, is
i vented out throu
ugh
the ex
xhaust poorts to the exhaustt pipes, muffler,
m an
nd tailpipe
e.
The exhaust
e sy t muffler. Witho
ystem includes the exhaust pipe and the out a
muffler what you
y would hear is th he sound of thousa
ands of sm
mall explosions
coming out your tailpipe. A muffleer dampens the souund. The exhaust
m also inc
system cludes a ca
atalytic converter.
c .
Explore on The
e Webpage covering exhaustt
Emission Control System
The emission control system in modern cars consists of a catalytic
converter, a collection of sensors and actuators, and a computer to monitor
and adjust everything.
For example, the catalytic converter uses a catalyst and oxygen to burn
off any unused fuel and certain other chemicals in the exhaust. An oxygen
sensor in the exhaust stream makes sure there is enough oxygen available
for the catalyst to work and adjusts things if necessary.
Electrical System
The electrical system consists of a battery and an alternator.
The alternator is connected to the engine by a belt and generates
electricity to recharge the battery.
The battery makes 12-volt power available to everything in the car needing
electricity (the ignition system, radio, headlights, windshield wipers,
power windows and seats, computers, etc.) through the vehicle's wiring.
So you go out one morning and your engine will turn over but it won't start . . .
Now that you know how an engine works, you can understand the basic things that can
keep an engine from running.
Three fundamental things can happen: a bad fuel mix, lack of compression or lack of
spark. Beyond that, thousands of minor things can create problems, but these are the
"big three."
Based on the simple engine we have been discussing,
here is a quick run-down on how these problems affect your engine:
1. Bad fuel mix - A bad fuel mix can occur in several ways:
2. Lack of compression - If the charge of air and fuel cannot be compressed properly,
the combustion process will not work like it should. Lack of compression might occur
for these reasons:
The most common "hole" in a cylinder occurs where the top of the cylinder (holding
the valves and spark plug and also known as the cylinder head) attaches to the cylinder
itself. Generally, the cylinder and the cylinder head bolt together with a thin gasket
pressed between them to ensure a good seal. If the gasket breaks down, small holes
develop between the cylinder and the cylinder head, and these holes cause leaks.
3. Lack of spark - The spark might be nonexistent or weak for a number of reasons:
Other Problems
As you can see, an engine has a number of systems that help it do its job of converting
fuel into motion. Most of these subsystems can be implemented using different
technologies, and better technologies can improve the performance of the engine.
Try and detect the problem - is the car not starting, running roughly, conking out, or
using too much petrol?
After you have detected it, isolate the system most likely to be its cause. If it is conking
out, the fuel system may be at fault. If it is not starting, the electrical system may be
worth looking at first. If the car is overheating, check the cooling system.
After you have isolated the most likely system, locate the weakest link in that system.
The fuel pump, for example, is often the most vulnerable part of the fuel system.
Check each successive part in the system until the problem is solved.
Get the broken part replaced or repaired. Consult your car's manual for other specific
problems you might be facing.
This will help to speed up diagnosis
REV
VIEW off
THE
E INTER
RNAL COMBU
C USTION
N ENGIN
NE
Ingreedients:
Air
Fuel
Sparkk (match)
Comprression (c
compacting
ng)
1. Air andd fuel entter the cyylinder thrrough the intake porrt opened by the
intake vallve.
The pistoon at this point is moving
m dow
wn the cyylinder, th
hus creatiing a
vacuum that
t helpss draw in these twoo ingredie
ents.
This "ign
niting" ma
akes the spark
s plug
g part of the
t ignition system
Pressu
ure from the newly y created gases rapidly expa anding pussh down on
o the
piston
n, creatingg downward motion n. Becausee the pisttons are each conneected
to the
e crankshaaft at diff
ferent poiints, these downwa ard movemments turn this
cranksshaft.
Flat engin
F nes are lesss commo on than thhe other
t
two designs. They are used in Subaru's and
P
Porsches in 4 and 6 cylinderr arrangem
ments
a well as in the old
as d VW bee etles with 4
c
cylinders.. Flat enggines are also
a used in some
F
Ferrari's with 12 cylinders.
c
Othe
er Probblems you
y mig
ght encounter with the
t
menttioned parts
Piston
ns: The riings over time tend d to wear out. Whe en they wear
w they allow
the fuuel and airr to enterr into the
e oil and dilute it. This
T dilution reduc
ces
the oiils ability to lubrica
ate your engine
e andd can causse prematture wearr.
Also if the ring gs wear doown they can allow w oil from the crank kcase to enter
e
the coombustion n chamberrs. This will
w resultt in oil beiing burned d and exitting
your tailpipe
t ass grayish/
/white smmoke. If your
y car spews
s grayyish white
e
smoke e and it do oes not go
o stop in the
t first few minutes afterr start-up you
mightt have worrn rings. IfI the sm moke goes away aftter start-up look to o the
valvettrain secttion.
Cranksshaft: Th
he cranksh
haft ridess on bearings which
h can wea
ar down ovver
time. The bearrings supp port the crankshaf
c ft and also
o the rodss which
conne t cranksshaft. A loud medium pitched knockiing
ect the pisstons to the
noise in the eng
gine pointts to warnn bearingss most of the time.. This is
y a costly
usually y repair annd involve
es removinng the cra
ankshaft and eithe er
machining the surface where the bearings ride, or replacing the entire
crankshaft. To prevent this type of problem, use a high quality oil, change
your oil at suggested intervals (3 months or 3000 miles is a safe number)
and always maintain your oil level between oil changes.
Another common problem is the timing chain or belt will slip or even
break causing the cam shaft to stop rotating. Remember the camshaft
tells the valves when to open and if it stops spinning then the valves stop
opening and closing. No valve moving, no engine running :-)
A term you will here when talking about timing chains and belts is
"interference engine". When an engine is an "interference engine" the
pistons and valves are so close together that if the valves were to stop
moving (broken belt or chain) and the crankshaft kept spinning they would
crash into the piston. (that's the interference) This crash tends to do bad
things to an engine, breaking valve, bending pushrods, and even cracking
pistons. This is why most manufacturers recommend changing the timing
chain or belt every 60,000 miles. timing belts dry out, stretch and
deteriorate over time so even if you do not have 60,000 miles on the car
think about changing the belt after it's 6 years old.
Chec
ck yourr Engine
e Condition on
n a Reg
gular Basis
B
Generrally, mostt of enginne breakag ges happe en as the result of the owne er's
mistakes. If yo our car ha
as run well for many years, youy might find yourrself
skipping a fluidd check orr putting longer
l perriods of time
t betwween the engine
e
cing. Toda
servic ay, with se
elf-servicce gas stations everywhere, often the e only
way yoou will inssure your car's fluiids are att proper le
evels is to
o do it you
urself.
If youu don't, you may miss a mino or defect, for exam mple, a coolant leakkage.
A feww weeks la ater, lack of the cooolant causes your engine to overheatt and
eventually you are faced d with enggine dama age. And then
t even after tha at
repairr, other small problems surf face and you
y find that your car break ks
down more ofte en.
mportant for you to
It's im t safegua ard your vehicle
v invvestment by check king
your engine
e conndition on
n a regularr basis.
Whaat's Neeeded to
t Keep
p the Engine
E i Good
in d
Cond
dition?
Actua
ally, only few
f basic condition
ns are nee
eded for long engin
ne life:
- Perform
m timely oil Changes and
a oil filte
er changes and use on
nly high qua
ality oil
and oil
o filters
- Check your
y garage
e floor or parking
p spa
ace for visible signs of
o fluid lea
akage
Prevent th
he engine from overrheating
- Periodic
cally check
k the coolin
ng system, the coolan
nt level, and
d radiator
Perform engine
e main
ntenance and
a tune up
u accordin
ng to the owners' manual
m
dule
sched
- Provide
e necessary
y cleanings and adjusttments (drrive belt te
ension, valvve
clean
ning, etc)
- Provide
e necessary
y replaceme
ents (timin
ng belts, air filters, spark
s plugss, etc)
Immediate
ely elimina
ate any minor engine
e defects
Starrt by Checking
C g the Engine
E Condition
Routinnely listen
n for noises when your
y enginne is running. The engine
e sho
ould
run evvenly and you shoulld not hea ar any strrong noisees, knockinng, pingingg, or
whistlling while the enginne is idling
g or durinng accelerration. After
A it's
warme ed up, tryy to presss accelerator harsh hly for a second.
s Thhe engine
shouldd acceleraate quickly, without delays or o hesitattion. Therre should be no
loud noises
n while accelerrating. Thhe idle sho ould be sttable duriing a stop
p.
Theree should beb no smok ke coming g out fromm the tail pipe (only
ly steam during
d
warmiing up or in
i cold we
eather is permissib
p ble).
Look at
a the insstrument panel.
p All the warnning lightss on the in
nstrumentt panel
for low oil presssure, che
eck engine
e, overheaating, etc should go o off afte
er the
enginee is starte
ed and shhould not come
c on while
w the engine is running.
REPLA
ACE With New
N Car
RE
EBUILD Enggine
or
Innstall REMAANUFACTU URED Enginne?
The Transmission
Trans`mis´sion
n. (Mech.) The mechanism within a vehicle which transmits rotational power from the engine to
the axle of the wheel propelling the vehicle; it includes the gears and gear-changing mechanism as
well as the propeller shaft.
What is a transmission?
Imagine riding a ten-speed bicycle. Your legs are the pistons pumping up
and down, the sprocket converts the energy to rotary power, and the
bicycle chain and the derailleur (the gadget that moves the chain through the
gears) are the transmission. If the bike is in first gear-the chain is
connected to the smallest front sprocket and to the largest rear
sprocket- you may be able to climb even a steep hill and stay seated.
Your legs pump rapidly but without a lot of effort, and the bike moves
slowly up the hill: high torque, low speed. It is practically impossible to
start off in tenth gear and climb the hill. Tenth gear generates low
torque but much higher speed for the same amount of leg effort.
The transmission of a car does the same work, but other gears replace
the chain. The gears themselves are made of much stronger and heavier
metals, and designed to withstand the strains of the automobile's
weight and speed.
Think about peddling a bike up a hill in the wrong gear. If the gear is too high (too little
torque), a heavy load strains the engine, causes it to heat up, and over time will reduce
engine life.
So . . .
How does the transmission actually
work?
Well, with each small explosion in the four-stroke engine, a connecting rod
turns the crankshaft, sending power through the transmission to a set of
gears that adjust the speed and torque to meet the conditions of the
road.
Whether you have a manual transmission or an automatic transmission,
the principle is the same:
higher gears allow the engine to run more slowly on long or flat
stretches of road, and lower gears help the engine turn faster to
produce more power and conserve fuel.
In manual transmission, the driver has to shift gears when they want to
increase or decrease their rate of speed.
With an automatic transmission, invented in 1932, the gears are shifted
automatically.
Other popular transmission variants found on today's cars allow for
both - a manual and an automatic mode, as well as a fifth gear for
better fuel efficiency at higher speeds.
Types of Transmissions
There are two types of transmissions:
the manual transmission
and
the automatic transmission.
If you're mashing a clutch with your left foot and
changing gears with your right hand,
Learn How
w To Drive A Stick Shift
you have
h a manual transm
mission.
Eve
ery car compan ny deveelops itss own transmisssions. For
tha
at reaso
on it is imposssible to offer one
o diaagram that
shows all the
t partts of evvery tra ansmisssion.
Bu
ut every
y modell of tra
ansmission usess the sa ame basic
principle
es to doo its job
b.
Automatic
c Transmisssionss
Autommatic transmission ns contain
n mechanical syste ems, hydrraulic systems,
electrrical systtems and computerr controlss, all workking toge
ether in
perfe
ect harmo ony whichh goes virttually unn
noticed until there
e is a problem.
Hopef fully in th e we will help you understand the co
his article oncepts behind
b
what goes on inside the e transmisssion and d what goe
es into re
epairing them
t
when they fail.
There are two basic types of automatic transmissions based on whether
the vehicle is
rear wheel drive or front wheel drive.
A drive shaft connects the rear of the transmission to the final drive
which is located in the rear axle and is used to send power to the rear
wheels. Power flow on this system is simple and straight forward going
from the engine, through the torque converter, then through the
transmission and drive shaft until it reaches the final drive where it is
split and sent to the two rear wheels.
In this example, power flows from the engine, through the torque
converter to a large chain that sends the power through a 180 degree
turn to the transmission that is along side the engine. From there, the
powerr is route
ed through the tra
ansmission
n to the final
f drive where it
i is
a sent to the tw
split and wo front wheels
w th
hrough thhe drive axles.
a
Autom
matic Tra
ansmissio
on Components
The main
m ponents that make
comp e up an au
utomatic transmiss
t sion include:
The Hydra
T aulic Systtem which h uses a special
s transmissioon fluid sent
underr pressuree by an oiil pump thrrough the
e Valve Bod
dy to cont
trol the
Clutches and th
he Bands in
n order to o control the plane
etary geaar sets.
On newer vehicles,
O v shift points are controlled
c d by Compputer which
directts electriical solen
noids to shift oil fllow to the
e approprriate
compoonent at the
t rightt instant.
Planettary Gea
ar Sets
The basic
b plane
etary gear set conssists of a sun gear, a ring ge
ear and tw
wo or
more planet ge emaining in constan
ears, all re nt mesh. The
T plane et gears are
a
conneected to each
e otherr through
h a commo on carrier which allows the gears
g
to spin on shafts called "pinions" which aree attached to the carrier.
c
One example
e of
f a way thhat this system can n be used d is by con
nnecting the
t
ring gear
g to the input shhaft coming from the t engine e, connectting the planet
p
carrie
er to the output
o sh
haft, and locking
l thhe sun gea ar so thatt it can't move.
m
In thiis scenario, when we
w turn th he ring gea ar, the plaanets willl "walk" allong
the suun gear (w
which is helld stationarry) causing g the plannet carrieer to turn the
output shaft inn the same e directio on as the input shaf ft but at a slower speed
ng gear re
causin eduction (similar
( to a car in firs
rst gear).
The sun gear is connected to a drum (yellow) which is also connected to the
other half of the clutch pack. Surrounding the outside of the drum is a
band (red) that can be tightened around the drum when required to
prevent the drum with the attached sun gear from turning.
The clutch pack is used, in this instance, to lock the planet carrier with the
sun gear forcing both to turn at the same speed. If both the clutch pack
and the band were released, the system would be in neutral. Turning the
input shaft would turn the planet gears against the sun gear, but since
nothing is holding the sun gear, it will just spin free and have no effect on
the output shaft. To place the unit in first gear, the band is applied to hold
the sun gear from moving. To shift from first to high gear, the band is
released and the clutch is applied causing the output shaft to turn at the
same speed as the input shaft.
Many more combinations are possible using two or more planetary sets
connected in various ways to provide the different forward speeds and
reverse that are found in modern automatic transmissions.
Some of the clever gear arrangements found in four and now, five, six and
even seven-speed automatics are complex enough to make a technically
astute lay person's head spin trying to understand the flow of power
through the transmission as it shifts from first gear through top gear
while the vehicle accelerates to highway speed. On newer vehicles, the
vehicle's computer monitors and controls these shifts so that they are
almost imperceptible.
Clutch Packs
A clutch pack consists of alternating disks that fit inside a clutch drum.
A common place where a one-way clutch is used is in first gear when the
shifter is in the drive position. When you begin to accelerate from a stop,
the transmission starts out in first gear. But have you ever noticed what
happens if you release the gas while it is still in first gear? The vehicle
continues to coast as if you were in neutral. Now, shift into Low gear
instead of Drive. When you let go of the gas in this case, you will feel the
engine slow you down just like a standard shift car. The reason for this is
that in Drive, a one-way clutch is used whereas in Low, a clutch pack or a
band is used.
Bands
A band is a steel strap with friction material bonded
to the inside surface. One end of the band is
anchored against the transmission case while the
other end is connected to a servo. At the
appropriate time hydraulic oil is sent to the servo
under pressure to tighten the band around the drum
to stop the drum from turning.
Torque Converter
On automatic transmissions, the torque converter takes the place of the
clutch found on standard shift vehicles. It is there to allow the engine to
continue running when the vehicle comes to a stop. The principle behind a
torque converter is like taking a fan that is plugged into the wall and
blowing air into another fan which is unplugged.
If you grab the blade on the unplugged fan, you are able to hold it from
turning but as soon as you let go, it will begin to speed up until it comes
close to the speed of the powered fan. The difference with a torque
converter is that instead of using air, it uses oil or transmission fluid, to be
more precise.
The three elements of the torque converter are the Pump, the Turbine,
and the Stator.
The pump is mounted directly to the
converter housing which in turn is bolted
directly to the engine's crankshaft and
turns at engine speed. The turbine is
inside the housing and is connected
directly to the input shaft of the
transmission providing power to move the
vehicle. The stator is mounted to a one-
way clutch so that it can spin freely in
one direction but not in the other.
Each of the three elements have fins mounted in them to precisely direct
the flow of oil through the converter
With the engine running, transmission fluid is pulled into the pump section
and is pushed outward by centrifugal force until it reaches the turbine
section which starts it turning. The fluid continues in a circular motion
back towards the center of the turbine where it enters the stator. If the
turbine is moving considerably slower than the pump, the fluid will make
contact with the front of the stator fins which push the stator into the
one way clutch and prevent it from turning. With the stator stopped, the
fluid is directed by the stator fins to re-enter the pump at a "helping"
angle providing a torque increase. As the speed of the turbine catches up
with the pump, the fluid starts hitting the stator blades on the back-side
causing the stator to turn in the same direction as the pump and turbine.
As the speed increases, all three elements begin to turn at approximately
the same speed.
Since the '80s, in order to improve fuel economy, torque converters have
been equipped with a lockup clutch which locks the turbine to the pump as
the vehicle speed reaches approximately 45 - 50 MPH. This lockup is
controlled by computer and usually won't engage unless the transmission is
in 3rd or 4th gear.
Hydraulic System
The Hydraulic system is a complex maze of passages and tubes that sends
transmission fluid under pressure to all parts of the transmission and
torque converter.
Oil Pump
The transmission oil pump
(not to be confused with the pump element inside the torque converter)
is responsible for producing all the oil pressure that is required in the
transmission. The oil pump is mounted to the front of the transmission
case and is directly connected to a flange on the torque converter housing.
Since the torque converter housing is directly connected to the engine
crankshaft, the pump will produce pressure whenever the engine is running
as long as there is a sufficient amount of transmission fluid available. The
oil enters the pump through a filter that is located at the bottom of the
transmission oil pan and travels up a pickup tube directly to the oil pump.
The oil is then sent, under pressure to the pressure regulator, the valve
body and the rest of the components, as required.
Valve Body
The valve
v body
y is the co
ontrol cen
nter of th
he automa
atic transsmission.
The most
m important valvve, and th he one tha at you havve direct control
c ovver is
the manual
m valvve. The manual
m valvve is directly conne t gear shift
ected to the
handlee and cove ers and uncovers various
v passsages de
epending ono what
position the geear shift is placed in.
i When you place e the gearr shift in Drive,
for instance, th he manual valve dirrects fluid d to the clutch
c pac
ck(s) thatt
ates 1st gear. it alsso sets up
activa p to monitor vehicle e speed an nd throtttle
position so thatt it can determine the optim mal time and
a the fo orce for the
t 1-
2 shif
ft. On com mputer coontrolled transmisssions, you u will also have elecctrical
solenooids that are mounted in the e valve boody to direect fluid to the
appropriate clu utch packss or bandss under computer control
c to
o more
precissely contrrol shift points.
p
Computer Control
C s
The computer usesu senssors on the engine anda transsmission too detect such
s
thingss as throtttle positiion, vehiclle speed, engine sp
peed, engine load, stop
s
light switch
s possition, etcc. to conttrol exact shift points as we
ell as how soft
or firm the shift should d be. Som me computterized trransmissioons even leearn
your driving style and constantly adapt to it so that every shift is timed
precisely when you would need it.
Because of computer controls, sports models are coming out with the
ability to take manual control of the transmission as though it were a stick
shift, allowing the driver to select gears manually. This is accomplished on
some cars by passing the shift lever through a special gate, then tapping it
in one direction or the other in order to up-shift or down-shift at will. The
computer monitors this activity to make sure that the driver does not
select a gear that could over speed the engine and damage it.
Of course, vehicle speed is not the only thing that controls when a
transmission should shift, the load that the engine is under is also
important. The more load you place on the engine, the longer the
transmission will hold a gear before shifting to the next one.
There are two types of devices that serve the purpose of monitoring the
engine load:
The Throttle Cable simply monitors the position of the gas pedal through a
cable that runs from the gas pedal to the throttle valve in the valve body.
A gasket is a ty
ype of seaal used to
o seal two
o stationary parts that
t are
ned togetther. Som
fasten me common n gasket materials
m are: pape
er, cork,
rubbe
er, silicone
e and softt metal.
Aside
e from the als, there are also a number of other seals and
e main sea d
gaskets that vaary from transmisssion to traansmission. A comm mon exammple is
the ru
ubber O-rring that seals the shaft forr the shifft control lever. This
T is
the sh
haft that you move e when youu manipulaate the gear shifteer. Anothher
exampple that iss commonn to most transmiss
t sions is th
he oil pan gasket. In
I
fact, seals
s are required anywhere e that a device
d neeeds to passs through
h the
transmmission ca
ase with each
e one being
b a po
otential so
ource forr leaks.
Spottting prroblemss
befo
ore theey get worse
w
W
Watch forr leaks orr stains under
u the
e car
If the
ere is a pe
ersistent red oil le
eak that you
y are sure is coming from youry
car, you
y should d have youur shop ch ee if it is coming from your
heck to se
transm
mission orr possibly
y from youur power steering
s s
system
most power
p ste
eering sysstems alsoo use trannsmissionn fluid and
d leaks cann
appeaar on the ground
g inn roughly the
t same areas
a as transmiss
t sion leaks.
s.
If alll you see is a few drops
d on the
t ground d, you may
y be able to postpo
one
repairrs as long as you ch heck your fluid leve el often (b
but checkk with you
ur
techn nician to be
b sure.) If I transm mission flu uid levels go down below
b min
nimum
levels serious transmiss
t ion damag ge can occ cur
(the saame advice goes for poower steeriing leaks ass well.)
heck fluid
Ch d for colo
or and od
dor
Be
e sensitivve to new
w noises, vibration
ns and shift behavvior
Main
ntenanc
ce
Transsmission fluid shoulld be chan
nged perioodically. Your owner's manuual
should
d give youu the reco
ommended d intervalss which co
ould be an
nywhere from
f
15,0000 miles to
o 100,0000 miles. Most
M transsmission experts
e re
ecommendd
chang
ging the flluid and filter every 25,000 0 miles.
In most cases during these transmission services, only about half the oil is
able to be removed from the unit. This is because much of the oil is in the
torque converter and cooler lines and cannot be drained without major
disassembly. The fluid change intervals are based on the fact that some
old fluid remains in the system.
When the transmission is serviced, make sure that the correct fluid is
used to re-fill it. Each transmission manufacturer has their own
recommendation for the proper fluid to use and the internal components
are designed for that specific formula. GM usually uses Dexron, Fords
prior to 1983 use Type F while later models use Mercon. Late model
Chrysler products use ATF +3 +4 (Not using the correct fluid for Chrysler
transmissions is the most common reason for their transmission problems.)
Toyota sometimes uses Type T which is only available through Toyota and
Lexus Parts departments. Honda also specs out their own formula which is
available from Honda or Acura parts departments. A transmission will not
work properly or may even slip or shudder with the incorrect fluid, so make
sure that you double check. Your owner's manual will tell you which fluid is
required. Naturally, the owner's manual will try to convince you to only use
the manufacturer's branded fluid, but they will also provide you with the
specs for the oil. If the aftermarket product indicates on its container
that they meet or exceed the specs for a particular type of transmission
fluid, it is generally ok to use that product.
Tran
nsmissio
on repa
airs
Adjustmen
nts and In
n-Car Re
epairs
There e are seve eral probleems that can be re esolved wiith an adjjustment
(A simpple adjustm
ment is one that can be made witthout removving the traansmission from
the vehhicle.)
or min nor repairr
If a la
ate modell transmisssion
compuuter-controllled transm
missions staarted becomming populaar in the eaarly '90s
is not shifting properly, it is ofte en the ressult of a computer
c sending
incorrrect signa
als due to a faulty sensor,
s orr the tran
nsmission is not rea acting
to thee compute er comman nd becausse of a ba ad connecttion or de efective
solenooid pack. These prroblems ca an be corrrected wh hile the trransmission is
in the
e car for considera
c bly less money
m theen a compllete overh haul.
If a non
n compu uter-contrrolled transmission ng too earrly or too late,
n is shiftin
it may
y require an adjusttment to the
t throtttle cable. Since throttle cab bles
rarely
y go out of adjustm ment on th o due to wear and tear, the
heir own or ese
mis-addjustmentts are usu ually due to
t other repair
r work or dam mage from m an
accide
ent. If th he vehicle
e has a vaccuum mod dulator insstead of a throttle e
cable,, there is an adjusttment thaat can be made usin ng an adjuustment screw
s
in som
me modula ator desiggns. In veehicles witth modulaators, howwever, it iss very
important thatt there arre no vacuum leaks and the engine
e is running
r att peak
efficiency. Enggine vacuuum is veryy sensitive
e to how well
w the en ngine is
ng. In fac
runnin ct, many technician
t ns use a vaacuum gau uge to diaagnose
performance problems and a state--of-tune. Many pro oblems tha at seem to
t be
transmmission prroblems disappear
d after a tune-up orr engine pe erformannce
relate
ed repair was comp pleted.
Re
eplace ac
ccessible parts
Co
omplete Overhaul
O
In a complete
c overhaul
o (
(also know
wn as rebuuilding a transmiss
t ion), the
transmmission iss removedd from the a completely disassembled with
e vehicle and
the pa
arts laid out
o on a workbench
w h. Each paart is insp
pected forr wear and d
damagge and the en either cleaned in
i a speciaal cleaningg solution
n, or repla
aced
with another
a pa art depennding on itts condition. Parts that have e friction
surfacces, such as bands and clutc ches are replaced
r a are all seals and
as d
gaskets. The to orque connverter is also replaaced, usuaally with a
reman nufacture
ed one. Teechnical service
s buulletins arre checkedd to see if the
auto manufactu
m urer recommends any
a modifications to t correctt design
defeccts that were
w disco
overed aftter the trransmissio on was bu
uilt. Autom
mobile
manuf facturers often maake upgrade kits avvailable too transmisssion shop
ps to
resolvve these design
d def
fects.
Re
eplacement unit vss. overha
aul existin
ng unit
When n a transm
mission reqquires an overhaul,, there arre generallly two options
y may have. The first is to
that you t remove e your exissting trannsmission and
overhaul it, the
en put the
e same, neewly rebuilt unit baack in you
ur car. Thhe
second option is
i to repla
ace your existing
e unit with another
a un
nit that has
h
dy been re
alread ebuilt or remanufa actured.
The second opttion will get you out of the shop s and on
o your way much faster
f
but may
m cause you problems down n the road d. The re eason for this is that, in
some but not all cases, a particula ar transmmission mo odel can have
h dozen ns of
variattions depe ending on which mo odel car, which
w engine, which h axle ratio,
even which
w tire
e size. Th he problem ms you coould experrience cou uld be as simple
s
as a speedometter that reads r too high or too low
(the sppeedometerr is usually connected by cable too a gear in the transm
mission outpput
shaft.)
You may
m also ex xperience e incorrec ct shift pooints or even
e complete
transm mission fa
ailure bec cause yourr engine may
m be mo ore powerrful then thet
one th he replaceement uniit was orig ginally designed for. This iss not the case
with all
a transm mission models so vo oice your concerns with yourr techniciian.
Most shops will rebuild your y existting unit if
i you req quest it ass long as they
t
can af fford to have
h a liftt tied up with
w your car whilee the tran nsmission is
being rebuilt. Of course e this is only
o imporrtant if yo ou are surre that thhe
transm mission yo
ou have iss the origiinal one and has ne ever previously bee en
replac ced.
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