Quadcopter F330 KK 2.

1 Build
Posted on December 22, 2013 by Vertigo_blues 9 Comments

Well, to be honest, its not a full build and its merely a flight controller board change
over. Changing from NAZA M flight controller to a HobbyKing KK 2.1 board on a F330.
The motors are from DJI 920KV with DJI Opto 30A ESCs.

The removal of existing board and the DJI power module aka V-Sen.

Installing a BEC onto the F330, keeping in mind that the BEC can only power M1 port
and not M2 M8. You can refer to the info diagram below for M1-M8 position.
The F330 came with DJI opto ESCs which means that all the ESC does not come with
integrated BEC. Ill need to run a BEC 5V so ill went on to install a 5V BEC lying around
in my magic box.
Heres the tricky part, ill need to connect the 5V out wire from the BEC to the voltage
wire of the OPTO ESC which connects to M1. Use a small flat head screw driver to lever
up the locking tab holding the voltage wire (RED wire). Note that only M1 can be used
to power up the KK 2.1 board, M2 -M8 is not linked to the power circuit. If you are
running servos, youll have to power the servos separately.

Done. The voltage wire is out from both the BEC and OPTO ESC connectors. You only
have to connect the voltage wire from BEC to the OPTO ESC connector. You can do
anything you like to the voltage wire of the OPTO ESC, either cut it off totally or tape it
around the wires. The voltage wire from the OPTO ESC Serves no purpose since it does
not come with integrated BEC that provides 5V.
Final productnot exactly neat but it does the job.

Now, mounting the KK2.1 board to the top plate of F330 with double sided tap. Note
that i tape it on flat surface and not over the solder blobs, this is to ensure a flat
consistent mount to the surface.
Not sure M1-M4 goes to which arm? First load the motor layout you want. Toggle the
menu options until you see Load Motor Layout.

Set the layout you want, for my case, its a X Quad so i select QuadroCopter X mode.
Select Show Motor Layout and it will show you the M1-M4 orientation and its prop
direction.
Once i determined which Motor output (M1-M4) goes to which arm, i went ahead with
the plug in and also reconnected all receiver ports (Aileron, Elevator, Rudder, Throttle
and Aux) to the respective ports on KK 2.1.

Donea naked KK 2.1 mounted on the top plate of F330.

Setting self level mode toggle via the AUX switch. Go to Mode Settings, then toggle the
Self-Level from Stick to AUX. Instead of using the stick to toggle to Self Level mode
during arming, now I can toggle Self-Level mode it anytime via my AUX switch on my
transmitter.
Okheres the juicy part. Im not a great pilot yet..so i tend to rely on stabilize mode
or in this context a Self Leveling mode on a KK 2.1. But.. the Quadcopter tends to
pitch backwards during the initial attempt to get it up. I kinda need to have a fair bit of
forward stick to counter it during hover. This is probably due to poor ACC calibration, i.e
not calibrated on a perfect horizon or maybe theres some off axis-thrusts on the set up.

To make Self Level work for you, you can Trim the Gyros. To do so, go to Self-Level
Settings. Under ACC Trim Pitch, add in the counter stick travel, in my case, i estimated
it to be around 30 for ACC Trim Pitch. Voila, first guesstimate leads to perfect hovering
under Self-Level Settings!
Heres the PIDs setting for the KK 2.1 (firmware V1.5) on a DJI F330 with DJI 920KV
motors running on 3S 5000MAH battery.

PI Editor
Roll/Pitch

P Gain :40

P Limit : 100
I Gain :25

I Limit :20

Yaw

P Gain : 50

P Limit :20

I Gain : 50

I Limit : 10

Self Level Settings

P Gain : 80

P Limit : 20

ACC Trim Roll and Trim Pitch as required by your set up.