> Oo. 4 Ss ISSUE 124- £3.25 Febnary'06 J NTERM e EN) le VK BS NGE EE a bs og (-f a e : aS “ sa Sif pe 2) 25 - ETRE Las Y A) Winrar » Ho és) colours P 4 Wun A a Painting the j NETS a commander figure re : Sia i os BY DOO! ; (Oi ® mee SE We [INSIDE ree we iesVolvo VN 670 GOEL7 = Volvo VINGTO . | [Detailed engine and transmission parts et ELS ‘Detailed cab interior EDITOR Marcus Niche Diladder style chassis eee, Contents Moulded rubber tyres 4 NEWS DESK Chrome effect plated parts hs srippeds Grom the modeling work Dcolourtul decal sheet \ 44 RETURN To KINGS OF THE RUAD! | = 44 NEW RELEASES KITS - HE BAT CAVE! neater Colour decal shee! covering = 52 START AT THE TOP Iwata affordable Revolution and Ecipse arbru ‘termarket goodes for your modeling G8OR2 = US fruek wiih Bayweleh U.S. Truck with “Baywatch” Trailer 185 em long De Detailed engine and transmission parts 58 POSTBAG Your views in print plus‘Recornn Bisdaer val syle chassis G6LAST WORD [Moulded rubber tyres WW image plus some superb resin nts [chrome effect p PRN lated parts [Colourful full length trailer ‘Baywatch'decal sheet GOING Loco ‘TMM 124 February 2008 3BOE. Cas LD TELFORD 2006 pon thi mie ne or ‘ear tamiyamodelmagazine. |THAT’S MY NEWT! Tamiya’s commitment to the huge'y popular 1:48 aircraft ‘ange is clearly demonstrated by their nex release, he sim tle Heinkel He 162 Salamander ‘or Volksjager. Model comes vith a detalles engine and 8 ground troley on which to jay Its due for launct atthe Nuremberg Toy Fair - further news as we gett Pity we couldnt get @ Boge pce RETRO MOTO 1:12 bikes releases Teviya aye attrac nt is 4. February 2006 TMM 124 PU LR Ls an Bae Rl a RE lL Eisenia ert Pr arre e ee TeN ie aaa nee et eee are ASSAULT AND BATTERY Tamiya ae honouring the 1:35 renedtion ofthe cht Il aust B, This Kt ial nero: for through open hatches et... Aival due so RS Petts Ree Re eer) Laue gry Peed Pa .F a) Ss rae ae” Pao tra eee Cia a erro So Aaa se se sta erates arecooetd Cran SoU asl rae a tes Tr oe faces ot oe evel 172 Seale en aC Leet es 36 Po Perec Re Eset Perea or ee Pena cee Pa a Crores iat pe eed 3h LS a ee ie N ; Y= = 7 — PRS =. See, Sa | = oro need Aseo0sos $8 ak Sem Ky 2X meee cera ey AS CRT Prenton “Squadron squadron. com Mail Order 1115 Crowley Drive Carrollton, Texas 75011-5010 u, iieceah ics Pe tenemiaieets ane come eca acer Coherent eae ora arr Praia ies Due ae eee ee Pa Sree Sey eo a ea ese nares idle ed Pa See SHOP ONLINE — ad Bera PORE Pa eg ea Pe Pe ae Ber rae ee Ene Krai Coe or ee aerate Moreen Bie er sere cet Corer 1188 Seale Cures ea ray aCe Certara ee CREAN Sne6. 530.98 oe Page ae etry Sree Roietcdan oa ey rao Net serena Pears ESSER scott 0 tdWith what must be the most astounding example of weathering we have ever had the privilege to feature, Phil Stutcinskas returns to TMMI with his truly amazing build of CMK’s 1:35 Type 52 Kriegslocomotive. February 2008 TMM! 124 Jor this article Iam going to concentrate ‘mainly on the painting and weathering of the mod hi was a good idea, es with the and other magazines and, 1h, will hopefully be relevant to the average Obviously completely sl build up of th pretty much entirel; up from polyurethane re with a small photo-etehed parts, The ‘quality of the castings pretty good and the level of detail is also nicely done, but as with any large resin tumbling and planning is when building th the first time is to be patient and continually test fit th refining the fit where le. The photos of the model befo show that I added extra detail the CMK kit is lacking it is just my way of building a ‘model, a8 T always like to put my own touches to a ‘and hopefully the pre-paint, photos will give a an idea of the work carried out. PAINTING Thi hobby recently by talking with others I have come to realise tit means something different to all of us. Ig for me I enjoy the painting the most. I love painting and trying to emulate what I see in the world around me, T find it very rewarding and a chance for me to add a bit of individualism toa model, As with any project, it pays to check ‘out your reference before any paint is applied, and y and get a feel for the actual things that are to be painted, For this one I studied colour ph of all kin locomotiv on patterns of weathering, ‘the areas where dirt and smoke collect, areas that are greased, areas of wear Tjust find that the painting flows more freely when you know whieh direction that you want to take a model SUPPORT Holding the model during painting - I would simply Say, don’t do it! For every model that T build T aly devise some sort of ding device ely bolted to, and for the loco 1 would say that this was an absolute necessity. BASE COAT This is a big model and as for a general or fine w airbrush, s0 I would sugges applying the base coat from fan aerosol can, Tam produce an excellent range of sprays and are good farting point. They spr really well straight from the well onto the detail, F Toco T used two different hip G he top surfaces and a al type of brown, whose undersurfaces. The choice of olour can be © ‘Tumi 124 February 2006 7CMiK 1:35 TYPE BR52 KRIEGSLOCOMOTIVE RAO15 © difficult one and I wouldn't nt to stamp my own fuzzy interpretation of actual military colours onto aders, but I wi in using as I ubdued. I feel it is starting with as light a tone of base colours as ble and gradually tone down with layers of ing. It is much easier to darken down a paint job than to lighten idea is used to effect in traditional painting such as reolours, I didn't worry too much about the erude demarcation line between the two colours as 1 knew that this would be refined during subsequent stages of the airbrush wor AIRBRUSHING T may be completely wrong, bbut I get the impression from others that I maybe airbrush ‘my models more than mos ‘modellers. Ike the airbrush ‘as a tool and I find the results very satisfying. I probably spent about a week Cee epee eae Drea Perens errr rey Pinee eee ey rita tha number the fain of heer. of evenings and a full weekend airbrushing the loco, I ‘must use dozens of different shades of Tamiya paint to ‘add shade and highlight, squiggles , dirt, rust, streak: worn paint etc: I just keep’ of a model depends on this spraying small amounts of stage so I take quite a bit of paint, gradually building up time on it and always have effects, toning areas down, a scrap model to work on bringing some details to side by side, I never commit the front, pushing others any paint to a model until I tothe back. Ispend quite a _have tested it on the scrap of time just looking and model first. Too many times an Iwata Custom Micron. I thinking about the direction Ihave applied a certain find that by using the 0 that the paint fi paint or used a technique le by side I get the bes going, making alterations as ona model and then been both brushes. © needed. I think that much of the finished look disappointed with th it wasn’t what I was after. I use two airbrushes connec wr adaptor to a lange or, an Aztec 470 and “Masking can be a real pain but | have found that there is no way around it, you just have to dive in, be very patient and just soldier on!” Sare provided 2s resin with eyrene - \ F + 3 Is made from large sheet of phototched brass to = isorn ar ants ce eS eae a eoesed sees ae ae pant) Coa DSP rte tact ES Are rie ese th nr ms re chy Sem Te momar mt pers comin © MASKING la masking with thin impression that the camo be very patient and just GLOSSING this is all much easier over with many ern hnsons Klear floor polish. i is So ames To = ovat te tere of weathering or painting WASHES < its constituent parts pr Probably the use two different type Ts ‘a Mite resin. washes lifting the bs wash made up from a rve. This is the colour over ich Tam e i} if somethin dust tones and is generall ‘ ork the way Twant itto, lighter in tone than the Add to this the fact that airbrushed base coats. I have Tean control washes much and that oil paints, whiet more effectively over a gl always my preferred ‘oat and that said wai jediuim when makin will not alter or stain the shes, ean be utilis 410 February 2008 TMMI 124DRYBRUSHING ntional type of coloure Se ee eee ava eeaa eaten eoaoy Seaees so SE ee a eee colina ain Boalt ta ohaeaaen tke Soro emsier ances rato because it is no longer the model. The other type mba toy coy ie Po Ye mel fashionable, just keep it in of coloured pencil that I use Peer oes i ae eS Ce eae oy the need arises. On the loco _and application is similar BURR RU EE Eg Tused the technique to build to the traditional coloured SC arenes ae? RE a eT ‘These are done with various _ streaked with the use of a ‘on the vertical planes to keep the varnish and coal dust Humbrol enamels and clean dry brush. pik inion a a PoE eS brush. I ae bese that VERDICT Rub-'n-Buff and graphite. the quatity of brush isa ‘This model was a real battle WT ee ket ti eek! mast hele when appiving farmesna daly os oe EAR eS ers em neg set ee one ag Can ae biter eg oa : to keep the chips sharp ining project to complete. eae ren r — hott and nosoty. ‘Thesheersaeotitwas GRA pene eae oer a By eee cfs GROG pov: pick fa fin nd tes sonld.| sets GN lor of he ee eee ec ero SR Neen such as conventional pastels, much work the same when On a scrap model isa must As a general rule I have highlight and outlines of "really quite large jobs, but I eee ‘commercially produced ‘used in @ wash form. and will prevent many found that most pigments. Lnderlying different colours persevered and maintained ‘modelling pigments from problems from occurring. when made into a wash wil of paint ‘steady but slow pace. ‘Acknowledgements SSSSSS=*S the likes of CMK, Mig TEST IT FIRST! ‘The problem arises from the dry slightly lighter than the Looking back now it wi gre bald Productions ete, and ‘The use of these pigment _fact that the colour of the original dry pigment tone. SCUFFS AND SCRAPES a really great modelling to say thank you to Stefs pigments produced for the washes can he a little dried wash when compared This is compounded further ‘These marks can be easily project - strange how things artist market, indeed I used tricky though and folk who to the wet wash or even by the fact that the wet portraved with coloured an get blurred with time Sy = 7aNFad aAIRCRART MODELLING FEATURE, didn’t really like was that the trailing edg wings are a bit too thi Wheel bays ar iy! But the rest of the kit is fine. I managed to obtain the ‘Profipack’ version of this kit, containing all the necessary stuff to achieve a great model, such as a nice photo-etched set, as set of ress masks and a great decal sheet with options for four different aireraft, 80 we have here everything that we need to have fan with this funny looking aeroplane! THE FUSELAGE As always we start ‘the cockpit, whieh is really complete and contains a lo of PE parts, so be careful as ‘some of them are really tiny! Treplaced the seat with a resin item from Redux which is designed for the P-40, and looks better than the kit part. started by painting the cockpit tub in Gunze Interior en H-58, as well as the seat, the rudder pedals and the fuselage interior walls, The radio and the instrament panel are black, and once dry I applied a dark wash in all the corners to give a bit of depth to the assembly. Some paint chips ‘were made with silver pencil ‘and some dusty, mucky marks were made with CMK pastels diluted with water. All the parts wore then glued together, and the harsess positioned on the seat. The ‘Complete assembly then velved a coat of Gunze H 20 Matt varnish, and put aside to dry. ‘The parts for the front wheel bay received the same treatment, and it was then time to glue everything together. Oneo dry, the assembly was positioned inside the fuselage, the both halves were joined and held together with clothes pegs and Berna Assemblers, and hours. All the seams ere carefully sanded, and the stabilisers were fitted To give a different look to the model, my friend Thierry Reverdin cast some resin doors for me in case I damaged the originals, but jerything went on fine! It’s now time to start working on the wings... THE WINGS Although there is not too ‘much work with these parts, they need to be well aligned, and before you glue them together make marks on the Teading edge of each wing for the cannon barrels. As Tsaid earlier, the trailing ledges of the wings are a bit, too thiek, but there is not much that you ean do about it otherwise you will not have a good fit between the two main components of the aireraft. Finally, I drilled ‘small hole to plac Tine between the ai rl eer earns the drop tank. to fuselage, and the first ‘meeting is not impressive at all! A rather nasty gap is formed, and needs to be filled with either plastic card or putty, in my case I used ‘abit of both. Don't worry there is nothing major, but there is a small amount ‘of work to do to get a good. result, Once all is sanded, the gun barrels are drilled properly. The canopy is now glued on the fuselage, and the plane is nearly ready for painting. DETAILS like to keep the best for the end, so now I painted all the nice details, such as the op tank, wheels ete. The ‘weathered up. The seat ls by Reds latter were replaced with ‘True Details resin parts reference 48102, same for the exhausts racks which are from Ultracast reference 48108, PAINTING Now the fun begi though there are four options on the decal sheet, I decided to use an Eagle Strikes sheet, (reference IP48-01) with a scheme of a machine flown by Robert Fergusson of the 67th Fighter Squadron of the 347th Fighter Group based at Henderson Field, Guadalcanal in November 194 ‘To prepare the model, 1 always make sure that all surfaces are clean and well polished, and I then started to paint the undersides of © [ABOVE: Hore wo soe the canopy ‘asked off top) and new rein ‘exhaust outlets rom Utracast ‘TMM 124 Fobruary 2008 15ABOVE: The white wingtips were painted white initia ‘canopy and cockpit have beon thoroughly masked of. \ ABOVE: Tho shading ial on, the plane with Gunze H-74 Sky. Once dry, the model was masked off to create a hard demarcation line then the dark Barth Gunze H-72 was applied. The dar een was sprayed on painting guide in the kit and reference books, and once dry the paint was polished with a soft cloth. The walkways ‘and wheel bays were masked off and painted in thei respective colours. Again the paint was polished and the entire ‘model received an even [ABOVE: To allow for wound down’ ‘nindows, resin costings were taken rom the In readiness Yo remove the central ler pri to preaenve the kt para) 416 February 2006 TMM 124 ro tho markings, an th been exposed and ighy shaded to match the ret ofthe a coat of gloss varnish, then the decals were applied with the help of a setting solution. Once the decals had thoroughly dried and the excess decal glue cleaned off the model received another coat of gloss varnish, and it was then time for the artistic touch... Aren't we artists after ail? T decided to give my model a rather tired look as this plane had been exposed to the humid and hot weather of Guadaleanal, and would age rapidly, first step is to varnish the model matt, ther ABOVE: The wing root walkways have been masked off in readiness for @ ‘oat of fat black ABOVE: Same goes forthe undersufacos, and tho undercariage bays have been painted to, with a very diluted mix of yellow sand and buff colours sprayed some of the panels on the top of the Wings and the fuselage, followed by a dark wash flowed into the panel lines using a mixture of black and brown paint, It was then time for some heavy exhausts stains, applied by airbrush using thinned brown and black, The work with the airbrush was all the other was done with a for the chipped paint effect, some water ‘ABOVE: The window is then diled ABOVE: The aperture needs {aretl timing and fling to crete clean-up frame. Thin clr im was {lean frame. diluted CMK pigments for the dust/mud marks on the ngs roots and some washes ind there to simulate ly stains, and to give a dirty look the model (Once satisfied with ken it was time for the final assembly of the landing gear. external tank, propeller land the doors with the windows replaced with thin transparent plastic. Finally 4.0.05 transparent nylon thread was glued to simulate the radio antenna, with two isolators made from stretched Q-Tips, he [ABOVE: The competed door wits ‘Used to eront th now window: | Py with the wing to fuselage fit, etched parts befo To realise this little diorama but otherwise its a great kit! is ideal for you a een ecm Siren erecta Senet eres St ere ee) eee rn See ae eee eee) : Not needing a great deal of is in the box. I you have mas Seon RG Ty Prete18 February 2006 TMM 124 “Saar Anwon') all Aacobra MA, ANGSI (F400), ARAEE Boscombe Down, 194. Derk EarhDark Green Slings / Sky ish with Sy spinner and rear feelage ban type roundel ‘Below: Bat 40, 24520 XR, ‘Evel, 946 FS, 360 FO North ‘Aca cul sumor 103, Basle RAF Dak EnrtvDark Groen Sky finish wt od spinner: Olve Drab ont Wselage panel, possby trom another sera. Codes and seria in Yellow; US Sar etna Inved (iy to June 1943) on fuselage sides, above port and below ‘Starboard wing. Note RAF serial overpaid in ght roy under ‘erator: some sources quot fuselage band nylon though ‘eauiaton Sy ls probaly more than Tey Fight Bell P00, ‘Red 77, flown by Yur Perakoy, 6 IAF Somat Al Force, Northern Front, winter 1942-9, ‘Tmporary white dispempe Upper camoutlage colours pert visible on rudder tne ‘Skyiare and command pennant on eockpt door (bath sides) and small version of ying ‘sword! marking repeated on white a i fosh. See sso mai upper pan vew y 1982, Dark arth/Oark Groon’Shy Gray nish with Medium Blue spinner and tal tp; RAF {fin ath painteg over in live Drab (and presumably also Upper wing markings), US Star marking on fuselage sido, ‘Above: Bell 400 Alracobra,308/0K-G, ‘OK’ Squadron, ‘Aeronautica Mitr, lr Base Nr2, Portugal, July 1943, Dark Earth Dark Green’Sky fish with Sky spinner; wile codes and serial. National marings In bi posttons (eve sap upper vew fr lf) Lote Bol Pa00/Airacobre Mk! (exRAF), beloved to be AHG'9, White 34, 19% GMIAR Soret Ai Free, Murmanck, Standard RAF sche previous markings overpainted. Red ‘wie TMM 124 February 2008 19CNT ie Ue ea ee Pree Pecan ernesrntt ees nema rer in March at) a Monte Carlo rally. Despite connie feam were able to introduce and unstable tyre choice, he Pee Tee mmm et Panos ro variant of their hight and polyearbonate windows in the second leg and would eee er cena} have gained a podium place eer eee ra mmr ec STN re Ce eer ean Sees ene Carlo rall os Externally, the car looked Penne eR er) season ear, but internally, the technieal and sporti there were important Pea omen i oni Sena eT recently ECU was updated and the TS eee ang ryan See ee ere Seon cen Perera sara eo eet the front suspension rete a a Pon ea eee eens competitive and set fast Pet sant Reon nr neni ss intervened on SS12, Petter ny chance that he had producing a good result eee ned released Petter Solber Vietorious 2004 Ral Beene Sn ane ny which was featured in a Sere an nee ee of 2005 with the release of he 2005 Monte Carlo rally ee Serena ere contains different wheels, tyres and decals to make up the number 5 ear of Petter Sao ee en Se reey emery get Nera Er a erect ee} SCOOBY DOO WHERE ARE YOU..? raat aa eR Cog eee Te rer detailing of Tamiya’s latest Subaru Impreza WRC from the 2005 Monte Carlo Rally PL See IEE era This this p 2004/2 use the same ¢ rallies in any given season tainly applies to RT, chassis number which had previoush been driven by Petter Solbe in 2004 to a fifth place in the French Tour de Corse rally and to a spectacul the san ally GE with th let's build BODYSHELL CHASSIS AND ROLL CAGE Talways start car models with the body shell, simply because itis the biggest bit of the model and one that always gets looked at first, if it doesn’t look go then the rest simply doe get looked at! Ibe removing the mould lines around the front and rear bumpers. This i with a small worn 1200 grit paper and a litte T'also removed the littl raised locating pins for the front bonnet locks and the windsereen jet which then leave a perfectly Aat surface for painting. These details will be adde¢ later. The holes in the front light nd the four trestle holes in the sll were drilled out mall drills in a hand held pin viee, Whilst on the subj of the body sills, th the real ear not as the ones on the kit shell they were narrowed a little with some 240 and 600 grit wet and dry taking eare not to wear through the plasti ideally they should be eplaced with ‘make them 10 curate nno doubt the after-market firms may supply them in the futur T then gave the shell an all over r well wet and dey ps ttle warm tase a small dash of Fi Liquid washing up liquid), This has two effects, firsth t removes any trace of grease, which can eau paint to bubble and lift, and indly, it give rb extinguisher sho front of the drive the instructions is actual fitted behind the seat on the 2004 car, so I removed mounting pegs and re fitted them porpan behind the seat, this meant moulded in hape ‘omponent which is also not fitted in the later version 235g mission tunnel was anded off, ‘does not exist on the real car. The numerous holes in the rear of the chassis were filled in with Tamiya putty and sanded flat, these holes are only used in other version: of the Tamiya Impreza the chassis component is ‘common to several ve Talso removed the two pe inner roll nponents were then ued in place usin ent. The of the roll « liquid le piece ear it) ‘and Na) whi fitted be too short so I'm replacements from plastic -ard and small drills held ina pin vice. Finally, the rear shelf was given a little detail treatment by having the various lightening holes drilled out Team is one of the my catching colours sec nobody d rot of how much realism a neat made sot of hamesses adds to ‘TMM 124 Fobruary 2006 24tro carbon and kevlar back reproduced with SM decal. © provide the colour in, th TS spray can range, 1 Mica blue’. I have used this on previous projects and it is a reasonably close match to the colour of the real car although I personally think itis a little dark in ‘comparison to the actual colour. I have also used paint which was mixed at my local | Halford’s super store which | ‘Ramesses with buckles ted, ‘wating Insta ‘22 February 2006 TMI 124 comes in a 100 ml bottle and cost around £7. The colour and code are ‘Subaru WRC Blue Mica Metallic 02C’ and this is a near perfect colour match when applied over a white base coat and I highly recommend it. However, it needs to be thinned with alittle cellulose thinner and applied in several light coats over a good base coat of primer so that the paint ‘does not attack the plastic, and because it uses cellulose, proper extractor fan and good quality face mask must be used if spraying indoors. Tinvested some time ago in.a Widespread Solutions extractor featured in a previous edition of TMMI and have never looked back! But you still can’t beat, the real thing as they say, and | was fortunate enough to obtain a small sample of the actual paint used on the 2005 season ears from ‘a Subaru fan and fellow modeller I met at a recent WRC rally event. The paint is specially prepared for the team as the colour is exclusively patented to Subaru, It is an acrylic base colour, which has to be thinned with a special ‘emnancea with gear siters, able thinner and dries initially to fa beautiful matt finish. The deep gloss finish is achieved with the application of a tough clear acrylic two-pack Tncquer and needless to say Those to use this option purely for authenticity as T often overhear conversations ‘at model shows about the right and wrong shades of Subaru blue! Once sprayed with the base colour, the shel rear wing and the other components were given f thin coat of two-pack lnequer, this was to seal the matt coat and to give a glossy surface for applying decals. If you use either the Tamiya paint or the Halfords cellulose base paint, the finish is glossy and will not require a subsequent gloss coat. I then began the process of applying the decals which laid superbly well, the only ‘awkward’ were the tail ends of Subaru comet logos on the doors (decals 3 and 4), these have to fold’ around the rear wheel arches and need to be teased gently to lay snugly around the rear wheel arches and door. handles. I used Aeromast Glazing was cut to allow for ‘pened front windows, atforcing 8 ‘tow into te cabin superb ‘Sol’ and ‘Set solutions for this job which allowed the decals to soften sulficiently enabling them he wrapped around the compound ceurves with a moistened wedge shape brush. 1 also added small pieces of Scale Motorsport carbon fibre decal to the wing mirror mounts and the front valance, as these are obvious on the real ear. Once the decals had dried, I cleaned the body shell with a soft damp cloth to remove any residual decal adhesive and finger marks. I then sprayed the shell with two separate coats of acrylic two pack automotive lacquer the second coat being fairly CARBON FIBRE TREATMENT With the ehange in WRC rules regarding the use of lightweight panels, carbon fibre is used more than ev ‘on all types of top-level high performance rally cars. AS well as being very light, it is immensely strong and ‘ean be made into any shape, ABOVE: Rear wing was fully carbon ocallod using tom Tamiya masking, ‘made with and this applies to WRC cars in particular as a lot of the interior and exterior components are non- standard, The Impreza uses a large quantity of earbon fibre components, some of which are visible depending on the size of the ‘weave’ of the carbon fibre sheet used to manufacture th To be 100% accurate, you should use several sizes of carbon fibre decal, but use 1:20 Seale Motorsport decal on virtually everything I make in 1:24 seale because it just simply ‘looks right’. I had already applied it to the ‘wing mirror mounts and the front valance on the body shell, and more is needed on several more components. LEFT: The Impreza’s ‘Sach ies sip fae ‘simply sprayed The technique I use is always the same, | apply pieces of Tamiya masking tape over the item to be covered with carbon fibre decal and mark them with a pencil to make the templates, which are then laid onto Seale Motorsport carbon fibre decal sheet and cut out with a sharp scalpel. ‘This technique guarantees a perfect shape and will conform exactly to th you want on the item. As tan be seen from the photos, Tmade 25 individual earbon fibre patterns for the rear aerofoil, which were applied carefully using lots of. Daco ‘Strong’ decal setting solution to help the material conform to the various ape [ABOVE The interior floor ofthe care painted white, an operation that {als fr some precise masking by the model compound curves. This was very time consuming, but fas can be seen from the finished item, it was worth it! The same ireatment was applied to the wing mirror casings, bonnet air intake trunking and wheel arch vents, and when completed, were given a generous coat of acrylie two-pack Iaequer to simulate the high gloss finish of the real items. INTERIOR DETAILING As mentioned previously. ‘most of the interior components on the real car fare constructed of carbon. fibre and are visible s0 1 added earbon fibre decal where [ could. After earefully sanding off all the moulded © ‘nth awash of dark inky ator 9 protective cont of Johneons Ki TMMI 124 February 2008 23‘BELOW: The finned model sparkles forward of the boot space are also. rructed of earbon and like the doors Iso covered with Seale Motorsport decal, Talso with added a litle wiring and ‘Tamiya pipe detail to the fuel tanks putty. The tops and various parts of the of the front door chassis using ten amp fuse panels were raised __wire and various widths of alittle by applying a coloured wire from Little- strip of Evergreen plastic Cars.com. strip, this brings the tops of the panels level with the WHEELS TYRES AND BRAKES ower edges of the wind Not too much to do here apertures on the shell. They as Tamiya have very Company range were then sprayed with thoughtfully provided pre- and spraying the and some gorgeous Tamiya X1 Gloss Black, and painted wheels which saves ‘components with Tamiya thin braided line from when dry, covered with Seale a lot of time! All that is X1 Gloss Black, I covered the _Litile-Cars.com to represent Motorsport earbon fibre required is some painting main centre console, which the bral lines, decal. Unfortunately, Tamiya of the centre hub and wheel was separated from the main ‘The internal door panels forgot to add the decals for nuts and the addition of dashboard part, the smaller also came in for some carbon the rear door liners which some tyre valves, which I console between the seats, fibre treatment as well. The consists of several small made from thin stretched tand the co-driver’s foot rest front and rear door panels. white outline sponsors logos, sprue. The tyres were given with Scale Motorsport carbon were carefully separated they existed on the Rally ofa little ‘wear’ with use of a fibre decal. These were later from the chassis frame Japan kit, so why did they rotary drill and some very given a coat of clear two-pack using an X-Aeto saw, small not include them? Luckily, rough sandpaper, this gets lacquer to simulate the high circular drill and a sharp ‘had some left over froma __rid of the centre mould. gloss finish of the real items. scalpel. When removed, the previous project so T included line on the tyre and looks ‘The individual switches on edges were tidied up needle them, they do exist on the very convincing, especially the consoles were then added files plus 240 and 600 grit’ actual car, check the photos! if you ‘pose’ the car with using thin rod from the wet and dry paper. The The final gloss finish was the front wheels off-set as Evergreen range and various window winding handles achieved using a generous I do! The brake assemblies widths of strip from the same were carefully cut off with a coat of sprayed on acrylic were initially sprayed with range, The same treatment sharp scalpel and retained, _two-pack lacquer. I then Tamiya X12 Gold Leaf was also given to the large this gave a perfectly f refitted the little window thinned with some Isopropyl handbrake lever, which was area for easier application of winding handles. The alcohol, and when dry, the additionally detailed with the carbon fibre decal. The remaining chassis frames _dises were hand-painted with a spring left over from a evlindrical objects on the were also sprayed to match Humbrol matt aluminium, Sakatsu aerial base, some __ rear doors were carefully the body colour ‘To ‘blend in’ the colours, photo etched bolt heads carved off with a scalpel and from The Model Car Garage the resultant holes filled © on switch detail Finally, the two fuel tank I gave the components a cover plates situnted just ‘wash’ using a 80-20 mixture ‘ABOVE: The tyes wore scru Imninthe classe way #1 ‘coarse sandpaper wile spin mirror plate a plece of Tamiya tape is {raced over the part, peeled off ana immed, and used fo create an enact ‘copy in carbon fexture decal seen being applled above right. 24 February 2006 TMMI 124 visible through the bonnet CONCLUSIONS may be useful to those of lack acrylie ink applied ent and radiator opening Yet another sure-fire winner you wishing to add this car with a wide flat brush, this at the front, ean be brought from Tamiya and an absolute to your WRC collection. As a mixture flows nicely into” out by applying awash to must for all Subaru and raily fan, I am really looking all the nooks and cranni the double matrix with the WRC fans. Even without forward to the long awaited ‘and gives a pleasing ‘three ‘Klear and ink wash after the minor modifications and release of Tamiya ‘s Peugeot dimensional’ effect when dry. painting. You ean also use additional detailing, the ear___307 WRC! Finally, my the photo etched mat can be built straight from. sincere thanks to Maurice FINAL BITS AND PIECES replacements in the Tamiya the box to give you a highly Selden for allowing the use of Before Lcover the last few detail set, but I was more realistic model which really the superb photos ofthe real bits and pieces, have you _than happy with the item as does convey the sleek and __car from his archive, and to ever wondered what the it was. used the ‘ST’ photo powerful lines of the real car. Stove Webb and Greg Harris little pig symbol on the etched template rather than I'thoroughly enjoyed building at Subaru Prodrive for their wing mirror easing of Petter decals to apply the marking, itand hope that this article technical help in this project. @ Eitrpecarisall shout” here mised Tamaya Xt 1 [Uireye Ysa ay =a a When I first saw it, Tjust red and XF-2 white to thought it was a personal —_achieve that pink/red colour Injection moulded Mica blue, red and clear styrene, Waterslide decals, synthetic rub- thing or perhaps even some that Subaru use and sprayed [Materials sort of private joke, but it is it at very low pressure to ber tyres and polycaps, window masks, self adhesive metal parts in fact the logo of one of the avoid overspray. Subaru Teams sponsors, the ‘The roof aerials are popular Japanese teenage. the kit originals, I simply Petting atte gar au wo’? Seige eat retnet ae aio Used’ ‘Subertiapec toot Bly Mea Bus ne do with Petter! Go to www. bases into which T drilled Clear tworpack auto lacquer, Tamiya paints yanmaga.kodansha.cojp and —_ some tiny holes with a XF1 Flat Black, XF2 Flat White, XF7 Flat you will see it there. The handheld pin vice and Red, X1 Gloss Black, XF16 Flat Aluminium, remainder ofthe Kit wax fitted we atetched npr. 18 Sel Ghea black, thantcolSoth Black built pretty much straight ‘The gorgeous bonnet pins from the box, confess came from an old Studio and Natt Aluminium. that Tdid cheat a little 27 upgrade set for the Detail Sets Tema photn etchéd detall with the lower sections, 1 Peugeot 208, set #FP2438, [euall Peseta ase rete) Inerely spray the assembled ‘The locking pin is the eve se separately, includes photo-etched underside with Tamiya XF1 end of a quilting needle, detail parts and seat belt materials. Scale flat black so that nothing which was cut with a Xuron ‘Motorsport carbon fibre decal SKU1020, Sotlooked gese mayest oneplene pte aed pins estes cee 1220. Often a te get away with it! [also have are included in the Tamiya ‘The Model Car Garage MCG-609 photo to mention the little radiator detail set. And that is about ‘etched bolt heads. assembly here as it isan it,1 apologise sincerely if 1 Studio 27 seat belt set S27-FP0001B. absolute credit to Tamiya engineering. ‘The gorgeous detail, MORE THAN JUST PARTS have missed anything else cout, but hopefully the photos will cover any omissions! rer aa Re Bee rei ats] SCALE New Spiderman Decals for Tamiya's Yamaha YZR1 M1 2004 Estoril New Hi-Definition Composite Fiber Decals in 1:12th, 1:20th & 1:24th = New Photoetch & CF Template Set for Tamiya’s Nissan R89C & 390 New Photoetch & CF Template Set for Tamiya’s Suzuki Hayabusa ‘New 1:12th Photoetch Harness Hardware Set New Photoetch Set for Revell’s 1:24th F2003 BUILD SOMETHING! Scale Motorsport details are designed to enhance your building skills, and inorease your enjoyment and understanding of the Subject matter you are building. Ask your favorite hobby dealer, stockist or visit www.scalemotorsport.com for the rest of the story ‘TMM 124 Fobruary 2006 25‘Super Revell 1/24 66 Penske Corvette $11.50 Flfate Photo-Etch ITEMS! Bender $65.00 1188 Classic Great Stuff! Eduard 1/35 Early ES Airframes Hetzer just $52.50 Canberra le COMING SOON! Anigrand . cf 4/72 RESIN A ‘Convair XB-46, ; $85.00 re coy ees com Phone 763.545.0399 Pe eAT TT) aru Cree Ry ment covets 0 go for longer Cammett Ltd ‘Suppliers of modelling accessories eee eee eee eee ed RCM reg er ita! CO Re Tu imeenLd Vl OO VAU Tia) aT February 2006 cre) a ing eatery += Sof-contaned — dows we spate dowels o pis + Create fst, crate rain pote and wire THE GRABHANDLER = rate socute orab ante trough 1) Sanda and met hg) = CAD sired, CNC proud, MICRO CHISELS += Remove plate deta, can up 2 seb ete pan ugh lst ress. ee) MISSION MODELS 226 Aa Karp cots (2 139.oh PAINTING BY NUMBERS We would like to welcome Robert Doepp to the pages of TMM! - in his first article he describes the painting of a Michael Wittman figure using oil paints and Humbrols. few years ago bought the 120mm. ‘Wittmann & Woll kit from Kirin. At the time, Tonly used the Woll: figure, because the head | included for the Wittmann- figure made me put aside the latter. Even though T loved the detail and overall ‘appearance of Mike Good's magnificent work I could hardly find any similarity of the head to its historical subject So when I'dug out the figure again, [fitted another | head, with which I tried to copy some of Wittmanns ‘characteristics. This was ‘of course a real challenge ‘ABOVE, FROM LEFT: ABOVE, FROM LEFT: Intel highlighting looking tle ram, blending of highights and inthe last two pictures, further refinements, har and meting down. and in the end I was not ConsTRUcTION makes it easy to reach eally sure if | managed to Tdecided to put my figure smooth transitions by do better than the original on the rounded fapmpnt blending the different tonce ksit-everybody may decide ofa Tiger turret, which together for themselves, But despite Teompietely built from After I had primed the ‘this question, building and scratch chwe Tur 007, face wih am eh ke se painting my Wittmann the last one Wittmann tone (Revell Matt 17) I interpretation was a real commanded and which was started with painting the fun project as it gave me the to bocome his iron coffin eyes, Starting with the opportunity to interrupt a on 8th of Aug. 1044 This details makes it easier to Tong time modelling project was why Thad to award, attain proper results as wahich tas about to beta my figure the Schwerter’ ane dose not have to worry little boring - and practice (Swords) to the Eichenlaub’ hout the surrounding painting-techniques (as a {Oak Leaves) of the areas. I sealed everything Surplus benefit i was really Ritter Krew’ (Knights with a semicgloss mixture cheap as all parts eame from Cross) and make him a Tamiya X22 Clear and the spare box), 'Hauptsturmfuhrer. In X21 Flat Base, This makes addition I fitted the figure _it possible to correct later ‘0 the sloped roof of the mistakes, ‘urret, reworked the lower After overnight drying I end of the trousers, removed first added the dark shades the gloves to breakup the with a mixture of Raw otherwise completely dark Umber and Burnt Umber appearance, and fitted field oils. The lighter glasses into Wittmanns right shades were © hand. PAINTING THE FIGURE For figure painting I use almost exclusively oil paints diluted with linseed oi! to slow down the drying process even further. This[ABOVE: Further deepening ofthe shadows hs been applied (le), adetional weathering (centre) and final iting tothe turned wood base (righ) © then roughly emphasized with a mixture of Burnt Sienna, Cadmium Red Deep, Naples Yellow Light, and ‘Titanium White. As the next step a fleshy tone was added which I mixed by adding more Naples Yellow Light and Titanium White to the shade colour. BLENDING TONES At this point the face looks like a mask as the contrasts are too high. But by blending the different tones together with a fine brush dipped into linseed oil one can gradually lower the contrast to the required 30 February 2006 TMMI 124 effect, With this technique you will not need to start ‘with a wide range of tones as this variety will result from different degrees of blending the base colours. As the next step the face was highlighted with a lighter flesh tone (with further Titanium White), which was of course also blended into the still wet base, Then, a ‘five o'clock shadow’ was added with varying mixtures of Raw Umber and Titanium White and the lips were painted with a mix of Cadmium Red Deep, Naples Yellow Light, and Titanium White HAIR ‘The last step was to paint the hair with Burnt Umber fand highlight it with a mix of Gold Ochre and Naples Yellow Light. Up to this point everything was painted Wwet-in-wet in the space of about three or four hours. ‘The oils will be dry after, forty eight hours and can than be sealed with flat varnish, ‘The uniform was painted in just the same way. For the fabrie parts I lightened the black base colour with ‘4 mix of Gold Ochre and ‘Titanium White whereas for the leather parts varying mixtures of Burnt Sienna, Gold Ochre, and Nap Yellow Light were uw Personally I prefer very smooth transitions and only low contrasts. I guess this is the way to avoid the impression of a painted surface in favour of the illusion of light and shadow. But this is not necessarily connected to the techniques deseribed - you might even use harder contrasts and sharp transitions - the possibilities are just endless depending only on sour personal taste PAINTING THE TURRET Tused enamels for all main colours. The sand colour is mix of Humbrol Matt 63, Revell Matt 89, and Revel Matt 17. The Rothratin consist of Humbrol colours Matt 160, Mate 2, Matt 70, and Mat 60 The Dunkelgrn is mix between Humbrol colours Mate 90, Matt 102, and Matt 80. "The tactical number wae roughly applied with masks made from Tamiya masking tape. After twenty four hours drying everthing was scaled srith Tamiya X22 Clear flattened with X21 Flat Bare toa slighty semicsatin finish, that will alow washes as well as drybrushing Even diluod with aboot thinner che crc aint provides perfect sea tgaingt any treatment with white epi COLOUR WASHES The washes were done with fa mixture of brown and black Humbrol enamels thinned with about 70-80% white spirit. The excess was first removed with a flat brush slightly moistened with white spirit, After that Treworked the recesses around the detail with a stronger moistened pointed brush, This ‘all-in-one: technique’ is time consuming but very controllable. It is, even possible to create a shadowing effect that makes the model appear more like the bigger original. ing this iu For the drybrushing I mainly used the components: of which Thad mixed the base colours to break up the ‘unique appearance. SCRAPES AND SCRATCHES Now it was time to apply chips and scratches. For the scratches that just let the original shade of the darkened base colour show through were mainly applied with a range of pencils. Besides the Berol "Karismacolor’ range I also used Stabilo ‘Carbothello’ pastels and Stabilo ‘Softeolor’ peneils to create a rather complex variety of scratches. As the red brown and dark green camouflage patterns ‘were originally applied only in thin layers they often completely chip even by slight impact. That is, why Tused the sand yellow base colour to simulate a first layer of chips. A finishing touch was added with Mig Productions pigments PO28 ‘Europe Dust’ to simulate dusty recesses, CONCLUSION Usually concentrate on only one modelling project at ‘atime, but my main project was taking a long time and [ needed a little light relief. Tdecided to work on a ‘minor project in between to practice (and improve) my painting techniques. This, proved really interesting, and refreshing and I hope ‘you might benefit from itas did. @ ‘BELOW: Subte shading and hinting an the gure's Clothing plus extremely precise the insignia bring RIGHT: The completed figure Tooks impressive on ts ely ‘made base. The name pate a {ett Nit Eichentaub und Sot¥®"" stuf. M. Wittman? 07. 08. 1944 TMMI 124 February 2006 34