Making Perfumes

Isabelle
Gell
Perfumery
workshop
MAKING YOUR OWN PERFUME
Participant booklet
Contact: Isabelle Gell

29 Brigg Drive First Lane
Hessle HU13 9HG
United Kingdom
Tel: (0203) 0869956 Mob. 07917850902
Email: isabelle@lesparfumsisabelle.co.uk
Web : www.lesparfumsisabelle.co.uk
Blog: http://lesparfumsdisabelle.wordpress.com
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Welcome note 3
Perfumery : a bit of history 4
Olfactory groups 6
Methods and raw materials 7
Manufacturing techniques 9
Starting your own perfume creation 11

12
Starter kit
13
Creating a classic oriental perfume
Alcohol or carrier oil? 14
Creating a classic Eau de cologne 15
Creating a Floral eau de toilette 16
Eau de Parfum and concentrated perfume 17
Chilling, filtering and decanting process 18
Creating a Chypre base 19
List of rare and expensive oils 20
Copyright notice:
Copyright notice:
This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other
This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author.
sources is mentioned whenever applicable. Please be aware that this booklet CANNOT be circulated on the Internet or
Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. Please be aware that this booklet
through any other public means without the express written consent of the author. Any use of this booklet without prior
CANNOT be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the express written
authorisation might lead to prosecution under the Intellectual property laws.
consent of the author. Any use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be subject to legal action
under the Intellectual property laws.
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Welcome to the world of natural perfumery and to an
exciting and endless journey to the scents!
I have compiled this booklet for you to be able to carry on

with your natural perfume creation and adventure once you
have grasped the basics which you will have learnt during
the workshop. It will give you a reference to go back to
when you design your own fragrance.
Like with any learning curve, you will face obstacles and
some of your blends will be huge failures or exceptional
successes.
Creating a perfume is a complex process requiring a lot of

patience. Perfumery is a different game from aromatherapy
which is about blending the correct oils for therapeutic
purposes. Those blends usually smell medical and do not
contain more than a few essential oils. Perfumes are
different. They can contain up to 100 different oils and can
take months or years to perfect.
Enjoy your journey!
Fragrantly,
Isabelle Gell
Creative perfumer
NOTE: My method of perfume-making is based on 19 th century books and

traditions. Other perfumers use more modern approaches and each perfumer has
their own secrets to make their own signature perfumes. The methods you will
learn through my workshops might be different from what you would learn in
Grasse or other workshops. For example, some perfumers place a lot of focus on
calculation and percentages for exact precisions. Whereas we all have to use
mathematics to ensure a good harmony of notes in the perfume, I am a loyal
follower of Edmond Roudnistska, who focused on the Art of Perfumery and is the
famous creator of Femme by Rochas, Diorissimo and Eau Sauvage by Dior.
He said ''Perfumers are chemists no more than is the painter who manipulates
chemical colors. In itself, composing a perfume has nothing to do with chemistry.
The Compositeur must not let himself be influenced by systematic thoughts. Only
by considering each odor by itself and in its rapport with the other odors, without
any preconceived idea, will he make the best use of it"
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1. PERFUMERY: a bit of history
Antiquity: origin of the term perfume = Latin parfumare meaning
through the smoke; Egyptians were using fumigation to honour their
Gods and goddesses. The first known perfume is called KYPHI which is
a blend of myrrh, juniper berry, fenugreek, pistachio, rosemary, mint.
Perfumes were made of resins and fats which, when melted were
perfuming the hair and face. These techniques were then imported by the
Greeks and the Romans which improved the ingredients and used them in
religious rituals as well as everywhere in their houses because they were
convinced about the medical properties of perfumes.
Perfumes as we know them now go back to the Arabs who invented the
alembic, allowing distillation of plants and giving way to new scents
including musk. So perfumery is not French originally. But the French are
those who turned it into a trade and launched the modern perfumery.
During the Renaissance times, where arts flourished, all the Queens
and Kings in Europe were competing against each other to discover beauty
secrets. Foreign alchemists started to open shops in Paris and perfumed
gloves were offered on sale. One must remember that one of the reasons
was the stench which needed to be covered. Not as romantic as we can
expect but perfumes were born out of necessity.
It is under the Sun King Louis XIV (17th century) that perfumery
became a trend and a big business and apart from perfume gloves,
fragrances and scented powders were produced. Master glovers were
allowed to take the official title of matres parfumeurs et gantiers (still a
famous perfume brand from Paris today) and a trade structure was
organised and established in Grasse to grow the plants and flowers needed
including carnation, violet, jasmine, lavender and rose.
In the 18th century, fashion became the name of the game with every
woman following the codes of seduction. The Court of King Louis XV was
called the perfume court and it was mandatory to use a new fragrance
everyday. Marie-Antoinette and Louis XVI were at the centre of this
fashion. Famous perfumers houses became more established with names
such as Gell Frres, the first perfumers of Marie-Antoinette and Jean-Louis
Fargeon who took over from Gell Frres. Farina invented the first Eau de
Cologne in 1732.
Napoleon and Josephine in the 19th century spent fortunes on perfumes

and Josephine introduced exotic fragrances with cinnamon, vanilla due to
her Creole origins. However, at the same time, the romantic trend had
appeared and the British focused on light, feminine and discreet scents.
British perfumery had to remain discreet in terms of perfume creation due
to a Parliament Act of 1770 establishing that any marriage based on
seduction and on abuse of strong scents, make-up, high heels and corsets
would fall under the law against witches and low morality and be declared
void. However, Creed, established in 1760, became the perfumer of
Queen Victoria.
At the end of the 19th century, the first synthetic fragrances appeared
to target more middle class women. New notes were discovered such as
vanillin, coumarin (tobacco pipe smell), hedione (jasmine smell
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reproduction) and the first aldehydes (citrus notes with an animalistic
background).
From 1900 to the 1990s, famous perfumers houses proliferated with

Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden. Aldehydes were used in all
perfumes to give energy and freshness. After the 2nd world war, Dior
launched character fragrances, adapting to men or womens own style.
Designer fragrances became popular. In the 1950s, the first Eaux de
toilette for men appeared with vetiver and lavender used extensively in
the grooming routine (Vetiver by Guerlain was a popular one) and the first
American fragrance was launched by Estee Lauder. Chanel no.5 became
the sexy perfume, promoted by Marylin Monroe who declared that she
could not sleep without no.5. In the 60s and 70s, the hippy movement
gave way to the use of patchouli and the search for enlightenment is at
the origin of Eaux fraches (fresh waters). The late 70s and 80s years
were marked by lifestyle fragrances and new notes were created such as
marine notes and fruity notes.
From 1990 to 2000, perfume trends have been marked by wars, AIDS
and a need to get away from the materialistic world and to return to
Nature. Fragrances evoked sea, earth, plant and flowers and refocus on
the basics: earth, fire, water and wind. On the other hand, perfumes link
more to childhood memories and tend to link the sense of taste to the
sense of smell with creamy sweet notes of vanilla, caramel, and chocolate.
Currently, the trends are divided in 2 categories:
o Fragrances for the youth and the commercially oriented

client with CELEBRITY PERFUMES which are usually
created very rapidly and focus more on the packaging and
marketing than the quality of the fragrance. They are created in as
little time as 1 week and their lifespan is short. The main objective
is making money by having it endorsed by a celebrity.
o Fragrances for the eco-citizens such as VINTAGE and

UNISEX fragrances as well as fragrances based on the
exploration of oriental and floral notes for men. Those fragrances
are called floriental and are usually appreciated both by men and
women.
o The vintage fragrances are limited editions and are treated like a
good wine in a good year. Those include NATURAL
PERFUMES including the return of SOLID PERFUMES made
of a blend of fat ingredients such as beeswax and jojoba and
presented in beautiful and luxurious containers.
There is a trend towards rediscovery of real scent sensations of

green forest, rainforest, spices, using only essential oils, absolutes
and resins distilled or extracted through classic alembic. Natural
perfumers are in the niche market of perfumery with clients
turning to them to have their own bespoke fragrance made which
will not be found on the high street. The Natural perfumery trend
has been growing to the extent that big perfumers houses and
perfume critics are now recognising Natural perfumers as
competitors and as major players in their industry (whereas a few
years ago, we were seen as hippies!). Recently the famous Forbes
Magazine has placed one natural perfumer, Mandy Aftel, as one of
the 7 biggest bespoke perfumers in their 100 list.
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2.OLFACTORY GROUPS
Fragrances are classified in olfactory (or perfume) families, each of them
having a sub-family:
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OLFACTORY GROUPS (ALSO CALLED PERFUME FAMILIES)
WOMEN MEN
Chypre Aromatic
An accord based on one or more aromatic
Based on a woody, mossy, floral accord, which can
herbs, such as sage or rosemary.
include leathery or fruity notes as well, chypre
perfumes have a rich and lingering scent. Created
Examples: Fleur du Mle Cologne by Gaultier;
by Coty in 1917. Based on an accord of cistus
Fuel for Life Cologne for men by Diesel
labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli and bergamot. Very
classic and sexy.
SUBFAMILIES:
- Fougere accord (lavender, geranium, oakmoss),
Examples: Fuel for Life Cologne for women by - Aquatic (cedar, fir, musk, blackcurrant),
Diesel; Mitsouko by Guerlain; Knowing by Estee - Fresh (rosewood, vetiver),
Lauder; Cuir de Russie by Chanel
- Rustic (pine needle, ginger)
SUBFAMILIES: Floral (rose and jasmine) and fruity

(peach)
Citrus Citrus
Citrus oils, known to perfumers as "Hesperidia", are the The light and fresh character of citrus notes
key elements in this family that includes all "eaux such as bergamot, orange, lemon, petit grain
fraches". and tangerine is enriched by aromatic, woody
and spicy accords.
Examples: Verbenas of Provence by Jo Malone; Eau de
Cologne Impriale by Guerlain Examples: Eau de Citrus by Molinard; CK One by
Calvin Klein
SUBFAMILIES: Aromatic (thyme, tarragon, basil, mint)
SUBFAMILIES: Aromatic (tonka, iris)
Floral Oriental
Spices, wood and vanilla harmonize to create
The large floral family includes all fragrances with a intense and sophisticated perfumes.
flower or bouquet as their main theme.
Examples: Elegance by Lacoste; Intimately
Examples: Joy by Patou; Jadore by Dior; Blonde by Beckham Night for him; Tobacco Vanille by Tom
Versace; Chanel no.5; Amarige by Givenchy Ford; Vintage Edition by Kenzo
SUBFAMILIES: Green (galbanum), rose violet, tuberose, SUBFAMILIES: Fougere, spicy, woody;
woody floriental
Aldehydes: Animal, powdery or slightly woody
Oriental Woody
This family brings together perfumes whose key
Where warmth meets sensuality. Musk, vanilla and accord is based on woody scents such as
precious woods with a touch of tropical flowers and sandalwood, patchouli, cedar or vetiver.
spice.
Examples: Adventure by Davidoff; 212 Splash
Examples: Shalimar by Guerlain; Must by Cartier; Magie Men by Caroline Herrera; Passion Boise by
Noire by Lancme; Bal Versailles by Jean Desprez Frapin; Versace pour Homme
SUBFAMILIES: SUBFAMILIES:
- Floral (gardenia), - Aquatic (coffee, cardamom),
- Spicy (cinnamon, nutmeg, clove), - Aromatic (thyme, rosemary, sage),
- Vanilla, sandalwood, cedar - Chypre (oakmoss, labdanum)
- Floriental: spices, resins and flowers - Floral musk (oakmoss, violet, agar wood,
patchouli)
- Spicy (pepper, clove, cinnamon)
Source: Ozmoz.com
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3. METHODS AND RAW MATERIALS
Whether natural or synthetic, raw materials in perfumery are essences of
flowers, plants, spices, herbs, animal or material which, through their
combination and chemical synergy, create a scent. Chemical perfumers
use up to 4000 different types of essences and the study of conventional
perfumery takes up to 4 years, focusing on chemistry as well as labelling,
marketing, health and safety.
Natural perfumery does not use as many essences as the focus is on the
chemistry of natural essential oils. The perfumers palette contains
approximately 500 essential oils, absolutes and concretes. Some
commercial fragrances still contain essential oils although in minimal
quantities due to their high cost and low yield (for instance, it takes 4
tonnes of rose petals to obtain 1 kg of rose essential oil. Hence the current
cost of 7000 per kg). Nowadays, most of the perfumes sold in stores are
composed of synthetically reproduced fragrant notes as mass-market
would make it impossible to sell with a profit. Natural perfumers, on the
other hand, do not mass-market and are thus in a position to principally
focus on the quality of the fragrances and use only natural essences.
Whether natural or not, a perfume is composed of notes blended together

and creating a new scent which can be of any of the olfactory families.
These are:
o Top notes: these correspond to the first notes you smell when the
perfume bottle is opened or the fragrance put on the skin. Also referred
as silage to explain that it is in the wake of, leaving a scent trail
behind. Those notes are volatile and do not stay nor last long. They are
usually citrus notes such as bergamot, lemon, orange, grapefruit;
green notes such as galbanum and for a floral perfume can be flowers
such as lavender, ylang ylang, gardenia.
o Middle notes (also called heart notes): these represent the HEART of
the fragrance and usually have a long lasting power as their
combination has been worked for longevity. These are the notes which
will still come up after the top notes have disappeared and when the
base notes have appeared. They can be either floral notes such as
ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, carnation, iris, tuberose, osmanthus, lily,
gardenia, geranium; spice notes such as clove, ginger, nutmeg,
cardamom, cinnamon, coriander, pepper or green notes such as all
the aromatic herbs including rosemary, thyme, peppermint as well as
pine and juniper berry.
o Base notes: These are the last notes one smells when the rest of the
fragrance has gone. Also called the DRYDOWN notes which occur
within one hour and are the final characteristic of the fragrance with
which one must be comfortable since they stay longer. They are very
important in a composition as they act as a fixative of the whole
fragrance and can balance or enhance some of the heart notes. The
base is generally composed of woody notes, tobacco notes, musk
notes, leather notes, animal notes and balsamic notes (examples
are vetiver, patchouli, rosewood, sandalwood, Ho wood, Peru balsam,
tonka bean, myrrh, oakmoss, cedarwood, vanilla, benzoin and for the
animal notes, castoreum, civet, hyraceum, deer musk and ambergris.
Nowadays, all the animal notes are synthetic although we still find
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natural castoreum, hyraceum and ambergris since their extraction
process does not involve any harm on animals (those are ingredients
naturally excreted by the animal and collected for perfumery
purposes).
The combination of these notes create a fragrance and it is the

percentage of concentration in the alcohol or oil which will determine the
type and strength of the fragrance:
o Concentrated or pure perfume: Until the 1950s, perfumes were

available as extracts. An extract is usually composed of up to 40%
concentration diluted in alcohol or vegetable oil. Today, major
perfumers houses do not produce extracts. These can only be found
from natural perfumers.
o Eau de parfum: Typically contains 15 to 20% fragrance in alcohol.

The scent is richer and usually has a longer lasting power. Women use
it for special occasions.
o Eau de toilette: When the fragrance is diluted with distilled water in

the alcohol, it is referred as an Eau. The Eau de toilette is the most
classical type of fragrance, with the potential to be worn easily
everyday and on any occasion. The concentration is typically 8 to 10%.
Aftershave for men is part of the Eau de toilette group.
o Eau de Cologne is a lighter, fresher fragrance, usually aimed at

refreshing during the day. Its name derives from the city of Cologne
(Kln) in Germany where the Italian perfumer, Jean-Marie Farina
created a new fragrance named after this city where he had just moved
at the beginning of the 18th century. This Eau de Cologne was then
bought by the Muehlens family who decided to name it 4711,
corresponding to the house number of their residence in Cologne, on
the eve of the French revolution. An Eau de Cologne typically contains
3 to 5% fragrance. Splash for men is part of the Eau de Cologne group.
o Eau frache (fresh water) is a very modern version of fragrances. It

contains about 3% concentration and its purpose is a light, youthful
and easy-to-wear fragrance that can be sprayed over and over again.
Perfumes signatures are based on accords, a harmonious blend of several

ingredients that echo one another: The major accord in the fragrance sets its
character: An example is Shalimar by Guerlain whose theme is a classic oriental
accord based on jasmine-benzoin-labdanum-patchouli and musk.
This is why perfume making is often associated to musical composition as the

harmony of notes creates a masterpiece.
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4. MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES: 7 MAIN
METHODS
Essential oils and essences derive from the extraction of the essence of a
plant, a flower, leaves, wood or a resin aiming at reproducing the
characteristics of these components either to be used in perfumery or as a
flavouring aroma and for medicinal purposes.
The extraction methods vary from traditional ones producing essential oils
to modern and advanced ones using chemical processes producing
synthetic molecules.
1. Expression
Expression is the process used to extract the essence from citrus fruit. The
fruit bark is separated and pierced and mechanically pressed (cold process).
The extract is settled then filtered on wet paper to separate the water parts
from the oils.
2. Distillation
Distillation allows the separation of solids and all the volatile components
through steam. Alembics are used to heat the blend of scented components
and water. The water steam moves the scented elements through a distillation
column and are then cooled off and finally collected in a vase. With
settlement, water is separated from the elements named essences.
3. Solvent extraction
This method consists of adding a solvent in the vegetal components. This
solvent will extract the scents. Traditionally called enfleurage, this was
done cold with fats such as lard. The result was pomades or scented oils.
These fats have today been replaced by volatile solvents such as hexane,
ethanol or carbon dioxide which are heated. Then, they are eliminated through
evaporation, isolating a wax-like matter called concrete. The concrete is
blended in alcohol, heated, cooled off and purified. Once the alcohol has
evaporated, the result is an absolute.
4. Enfleurage
Cold enfleurage is the most ancient method which is very rarely used today
due to the lengthy time it takes and the low yield it produces. It was
traditionally used for fragile flowers such as orange flowers, tuberose and
jasmine. Petals were hand collected and placed in fine layers on animal fats
spread over a glass plate (called chassis). Every 24 or 48 hours, petals were
removed and replaced with fresh ones. These operations continued until
saturation of the fats. The resulting scented pomade was scraped and washed
with wine spirit to produce infusions.
5. CO2 extraction
CO2 is placed under pressure with a temperature below 40C and goes
through various stages until it becomes liquid and becomes a solvent as liquid
as gas. This soft extraction method is excellent to obtain pure olfactory
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substances with low volatility and works well on dried raw materials such as
woods. The CO2 is recycled inside the system and does not pollute. It is a non-
harmful gas which can be released in the atmosphere.
6. Synthetic molecules
After many years of research, once a new molecule has been selected, very
sophisticated methods are implemented to produce it in big and stable
quantities. This manufacturing process can be lengthy and include various
operations including chloration, distillation, hydrogenation, etherification It is
the complexity of chemical reactions combined with the various stages
needed which influence the costs of a synthetic raw material.
7. Headspace technique (or NaturePrint)

Headspace is a recent technique allowing to capture the essence of a plant
without the need to produce this plant extensively, particularly for plants in
remote countries such as certain spices or fruit. It is also used to capture the
essence of some plants which naturally smell gorgeous but that cannot be
extracted through the more traditional methods as they will not give up their
smell. These include flowers like Lily of the Valley or violet. The essence is
captured directly from the fresh flower, and then researched in laboratories
with various extracts created. These are assessed against gaseous
chromatography and mass spectrometry. Once these data have been
analysed, the subtle and complex scent is reconstructed.
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5. STARTING YOUR OWN PERFUME CREATION
Ingredients
1 clean space
1 notebook and pen
labels
pipettes
1 measurement cylinder (10 ml or higher)
Blank copies of perfume pyramid
1 set of top notes essential oils*
1 set of heart notes essential oils*
1 set of base notes essential oils*
Carrier oil (jojoba or fractionated coconut) or alcohol
A set of 30 ml amber or clear glass bottles
Dry instant coffee in a cup to clear your nostrils
Directions
You dont need to have any knowledge on chemistry in order to create a natural
perfume but you do need a high degree of intuition and a sense of smell.
You also need to know those oils which have to be handled with caution due to
their photosensitivity potential or their potency as you will have to use their
sparingly in order to avoid any allergic reactions. You can find interesting
information about the potential reactions of some essential oils on the following
website: http://www.aromamedical.com
As a reference basis, a balanced NATURAL perfume is usually composed of 1:

- 30-40% top notes
- 20-50% heart notes
- 10-30% base notes
Some perfumers might argue that the highest percentage should be the base
notes. This really depends on your likings as too many base notes might give a
heavy and woody scent, not appreciated by everyone.
In the next paragraph, I will give you an example of what this means when using
drops or millilitres.
IMPORTANT: WRITE DOWN EVERYTHING INCLUDING ANY CHANGE YOU

MAKE IN THE FUTURE.
REMEMBER!: YOU CAN ALWAYS ADD BUT NEVER REMOVE SO ADD NOTES
1 BY ONE AND LET THEM SIT BEFORE ADDING MORE.
* See the table of notes in the starter kit page to determine those notes
11
Commercial perfumers state that the percentage is 25% top notes, 30% heart notes and 50%
base notes. In natural perfumes, I found that there was a need for more top notes. However, the
percentages can be altered according to the oils you use as long as you try to keep a balance.
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6. STARTER KIT
The ingredients to make perfumes can be very costly. I advise to start with the
basic list below. Once you have got acquainted to how the oils blend together,
you can then add the more expensive ones to create fabulous perfumes,
fragrances, candles and any product in which you want a scent.
I also use essential oils a lot in my cooking. This is where I find my inspiration. Just
think! For instance, basil and lemon or cardamom and coffee are great in food and
drinks. When you experience, try to find your inspiration somewhere. It can be
your garden: observe how some flowers seem to blossom more next to some
rather than others.
TOP NOTES HEART NOTES BASE NOTES
Petitgrain Pine Patchouli
Bergamot Rose Pepper
Sage Thyme Benzoin
Chamomile Peppermint Rosewood
Lemon Ylang ylang Sandalwood
Lemongrass Cinnamon Vetiver
Lime Cardamom Myrrh
Frankincense Coriander Oakmoss
Grapefruit Juniper berry Cedarwood
Galbanum Geranium Clove bud
Lavender Ginger Orris
Orange Jasmine Labdanum
Nutmeg
Another example is that you dont find gardenia next to lavender in the tropics.
You can try mixing them together but you will notice that lavender tends to be a
flower of its own and to take over. If you are going to mix them together, watch
your quantities.
Also heart notes Also top notes
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7. CREATING A CLASSIC ORIENTAL PERFUME
Ingredients
20 drops bergamot
15 drops lemon
6 drops ylang ylang
12 drops rose
15 drops patchouli
15 drops sandalwood
3 drops Cedarwood
1 drop vanilla
15 ml jojoba oil
Optional: 2 drops agar wood
Directions
Typically, 20 drops = 1 ml
If we use the balanced perfume basis (50% top notes, 30% heart notes, 20% base
notes) the total number of drops in this example is 100 i.e. 5 ml
TOP NOTES
Bergamot + lemon + ylang + rose = 53%
HEART NOTES
Patchouli + sandalwood + cedarwood = 33%
BASE NOTES
Frankincense + myrrh + vanilla = 14%
Total = 100%
Although the top notes are less and the heart notes are more, the balance is still
observed.
You can increase, decrease or add your favourite essential oils to this
base. For instance, if youd rather have a more floral heart, then you will
have either to add one of the top floral notes in the heart too or another
one of your choice. You could add 10 drops of ylang but in order for the
perfume to be balanced, you then need to increase the quantity of one
or several of the top notes.
The silage of the perfume i.e. what you smell when you open the bottle is a
blend of citrus and flowers. It gives place to a woody oriental heart which ends
with a scent of incense and vanilla. This is what will remain the longest. In order
to ensure a lasting scent, we have added 33% of blend in the jojoba oil.
In the next chapter, we work out the percentages to blend your base with a
carrier oil or alcohol.
To make a big quantity, just multiply the number of drops by the quantity desired. Over 30
ml, I suggest you start using millilitres as a reference, bearing in mind that the 20 drops to
1 ml is only a guide as some oils (absolute or resin ones) are thicker so you might have to
increase the percentage.
Some perfumers use grams and in the US, they use cups but it depends on what you feel comfortable
with.
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8. ALCOHOL OR CARRIER OIL?
So now, you have prepared your base and you want to create your final perfume.
First, you need to determine what you want it to be:
An Eau de Cologne
An Eau de toilette
An Eau de parfum
A pure perfume
A solid perfume
An aftershave
Then, you must decide whether you want it in alcohol or oil. In the next
paragraph, we are going to discuss each possibility and work out the
percentages needed according to your preferences. But first lets talk about
the alcohol.
Alcohol makes it easier to fix the perfume on the skin and also acts as a
preservative, allowing the perfume to have a longer shelf life. Whereas in
France and many European countries, it is generally quite easy to get a 100 ml
bottle of 90% alcohol from the chemists counter, in the UK, regulations make
it extremely hard to obtain alcohol and the only available ones are grain
alcohol such as vodka. Nothing prevents you from trying with grape alcohol
such as Cognac but the presence of sugar in those will make it more difficult to
finish the fragrance.
For your homemade perfumes, I recommend using vodka at a minimum of

47% volume. The higher the volume, the easier it will be to create your
perfume. You might be able to obtain a small 100 ml bottle of 90% alcohol
from a doctor or NHS worker if you know any or otherwise, if you decide to
make a business out of it, you can request a license from HM Customs and
Excise but then you need a special storage place for health and safety
regulations. Some alcohol licensed distributors do produce perfumers alcohol
at 94% volume which is denatured alcohol used by perfumers.
The more straightforward way is to go back to the old system of using carrier
oils. The Ancients used olive oil but in the modern days, jojoba or fractionated
coconut oils are used due to their long shelf life as they are renowned for their
natural antioxidant properties. Almond oil is also a nice alternative but it is
recommended to add some Vitamin E in this type of carrier oil. The beauty of
oils is that they do not alter the smell of your blend and tend to last longer on
your skin as they penetrate through the skin upper layers.
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9. CREATING A CLASSIC EAU DE COLOGNE
(NAPOLEON)
Eau means water in French. However, a genuine Eau de Cologne does not have
water. The major difference between an Eau de Cologne and a Perfume is the
percentage of alcohol used with the blend. In a nutshell, the more alcohol, the
lighter and the less lasting the blend will be. This is why some fragrances are fit
for evenings, others for working and others just for daily use in order to freshen
up.
Often, the Eau de Cologne is renamed After shave for men although many so-
called aftershave fragrances also contain witch hazel (Hamamelis water),
renowned for its soothing properties against razor burn.
Ingredients
12 drops petitgrain
7 drops clary sage
18 drops orange
18 drops lemon
5 drops bergamot
15 ml alcohol or carrier oil
1/4 csp glycerine
FOR AN AFTERSHAVE, add
18 drops mandarin
4 drops coriander
5 drops patchouli
3 drops vanilla
Typically 1 ml = 20 drops
The typical percentage for an Eau de Cologne is 8-15% blend in 100% alcohol.
Commercial perfumers prefer a percentage of 3 to 5% but this is usually due to
cost-effectiveness. But if you wish a lighter version, then you can stick to the
commercial perfumes percentages. In the traditional methods based on natural
essential oils, the fragrances are usually not so long lasting as there is no
synthetic additive to fixate the scent. The purpose of the Eau de Cologne is to
refresh.
Now, if you add some vetiver, patchouli, mandarin, coriander and vanilla in the
example blend, you end up with a lovely aftershave or unisex fragrance.
The typical percentage for an aftershave is 10 to 15% blend in 100% alcohol. If

you want to use witch hazel to protect the skin against razor burn, use 60%
alcohol and 40% witch hazel. In our example, you would use 30 ml alcohol and 20
ml witch hazel.
The glycerine is used as a fixative to make the smell last longer but it is also
helping to eliminate the sensation of dryness caused by alcohol on the skin.
Besides it has some anti-oxidant properties for a longer shelf life. Note that
glycerine is never used in carrier oil.
Isabelles tip!
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When using carrier oil instead of alcohol, do not hesitate to double the top notes as the oil tends to
absorb top notes quickly and make the scent more volatile.
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10. CREATING A FLORAL EAU DE TOILETTE
Ingredients
30 drops ylang ylang
12 drops patchouli
12 drops sandalwood
2 drops jasmine
4 drops rose
csp glycerine
15 ml alcohol or carrier oil
10 ml distilled water
2 ml rosewater
Directions
The Eau de toilette is the most classic way of using perfume as a daily fragrance
and in the day time. It is well suited for those people who do not like strong smells
as it is more discreet than perfumes.
The typical percentage for an Eau de toilette is 18-30% blend in alcohol. In natural
perfumery, it really depends on the blend itself. I typically add 30% blend in the
alcohol as it allows the perfume to last longer. However, this process is quite
expensive if you intend to make a business out of natural perfumes.
For your creations, I advise you to visualise your perfume and how you want it to
smell like before starting. It will help your intuition. You need to get acquainted
with the way oils blend with each other. Smell them and write notes about how
you feel about them, what they remind you of etc.
Note that because of the distilled water and rosewater, your blend will look
blurred to start with. Put it in the fridge for a couple of weeks to allow it to settle
and then, filter until clear (see Technicalities for the filtering process).
Learn to create accords which you can then blend together to make a perfume. For example,
blend 6 drops of oakmoss to 1 drop of vetiver to obtain a chypre base accord.
Isabelles tip!
Use the soaked filter paper to make a room fragrance: place them in a blend of alcohol and water and
leave to macerate for a few weeks. Place in a sprayer and spray your house with your favourite scent!
An example of genuine recycling
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11. EAU DE PARFUM AND CONCENTRATED
PERFUME
The difference between an Eau de parfum and a concentrated perfume is the
percentage of blend used in the alcohol. In a concentrated perfume, the
percentage of blend is high and because this concentrate is so expensive, you will
usually see pure perfumes contained in small 5 to 15 ml bottles at a very
expensive price.
Both are usually worn for evenings out or special occasions although Marilyn
Monroe was renowned for wearing her expensive Chanel no.5 while sleeping!
Eau de Parfum and perfumes also have animalistic bases such as civet, musk or
ambergris or leather ones such as agar wood and birch. The animal bases are
difficult to find in their natural state nowadays due to the cruelty on the animals
(civet or deer) so tend to be replaced by synthetically reproduced ones. The
ambergris essence is the most commonly used. It is a natural stomach rejection
from the sperm whale which does not involve any harm to the mammal. The
excrement is washed out by the sea on the sand and over the years, gives a
strong smell to this most precious stone. The natural alternative to ambergris is
vegetal ambrette seeds. Agar wood is a leather note most commonly known in
the famous Cuir de Russie perfume by Chanel, based on the Cossack leather
boots rubbed against birch tree.
One way to ensure your perfume is strong and long lasting is to tincture your
favourite base note in alcohol and let it macerate for at least 3 months. For
instance, if you like sandalwood, tincture 10 ml of sandalwood in 100 ml of alcohol
or carrier oil. Then, you add your perfume blend into it and let it macerate again.
You will end up with a tenacious perfume since the alcohol itself has been
impregnated with the oil. This same process is used with ambergris.
Solid perfume is fashionable again. It used to be the way to make perfumes

before alcohol started to be used. The simplest way is to buy the concrete
extracted from the flower (this is the butter which comes out the first expression
of the flowers through the enfleurage process). For instance, you can blend 10 g
of rose concrete with 20 drops of sandalwood. Solid perfume is used a lot in the
Middle East as it is alcohol free. It also offers the benefit of being able to smell
your favourite flower in its purest state.
There are more complex ways to create a solid perfume which is to blend jojoba
oil with beeswax and the perfume on heat but I am in favour of remaining as close
as possible to what nature offers unless you have a lot of space and special pots
and pans for making perfumes in your kitchen.
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12. CHILLING, FILTERING AND DECANTING
PROCESS
In order for your perfume to have a longer lasting power and to ensure it is
cleared off any residues, you will need to chill and decant your perfume.
The CHILLING process allows all the residues to get to the bottom of the bottle so
that all you need then is to filter and decant. To do so, once you have made your
perfume and added the alcohol, place it for 24 hours in the freezer. Note that this
process does not apply to perfume with a vegetable oil base.
After 24 hours, take it out and let it sit in room temperature. You should see
residues at the bottom once it has warmed up.
To FILTER, you have two options:

The most straightforward is to place a filter (a tea filter paper folded in two
is ideal but you can also use a thin wall coffee filter) in a funnel (do not use
a big funnel as you might loose more perfume) and slowly pour your
perfume into the funnel and decant in a new bottle. The residues will
remain in the filter. The problem with this process is that sometimes, the
essential oils are so thick that you might need to filter several times before
you get a clear perfume (since the residues will keep on transferring when
you decant). Some perfumers use Fullers Earth to ensure the residues go
to the bottom of the bottle and stay.
The other option requires more precision but ensures that residues remain
at the bottom of the bottle. It is not suitable if you use bottles of over 50
ml content. Using a pipette, take out the top part of the product and
transfer in the new bottle. Make sure your pipette does not touch the
bottom of the bottle so that you dont fill it with some residues.
Whichever option you use, note that you will have some loss of product. So if you
wish to fill in a bottle of 50 ml, you should actually prepare 55 ml of product, for
example.
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13. CREATING A CHYPRE BASE
Ingredients
10 drops grapefruit
8 drops bergamot
8 drops rose
12 drops oakmoss*
2 drops cedarwood
8 drops labdanum
30 drops benzoin
3 drops vanilla
Note: these last three oils are the base to create a natural amber accord
+ 10 ml jojoba or fractionated coconut or 20 ml alcohol
Directions
The Chypre family is the most flexible one in perfumery as it can give sensual or
sophisticated, masculine or feminine perfumes. This is the family of the French
classic perfumes such as Mitsouko of Guerlain or Ma Griffe of Carven or Aramis
Eau de toilette for Men. The base is accords of oakmoss, cistus-labdanum,
patchouli and bergamot, to which floral or fruity notes can be added.
For a great and addictive masculine fragrance, I suggest adding 5 to 10 drops of

vetiver to obtain a classic Chypre vetiver (Guerlains one is the most famous) or 5
to 8 drops of sandalwood for a Chypre sandalwood.
For a feminine fragrance, the creativity is unlimited. Add a few drops of floral
essential oils to create a typical early 20th century Chypre perfume. And if you
would like a slightly smoky result, add 3 drops of cinnamon leaf in the end.
This base is both easy and complex to play with and it guarantees very interesting
results while being fun to create. In order not to waste too much of the expensive
essential oils, start adding small quantities, smell and add until you like the final
result. You are free to add as many oils as you want to this base but beware of
those oils such as jasmine and tuberose which tend to overwhelm the rest.
NOTE: Nowadays you can find fruit smells reproduced naturally as extracts (you
can find some in supermarkets). Adding a blackberry or raspberry extract to the
Chypre base will result in a savoury sweet and fruity perfume.
When using alcohol as a carrier base, add blackcurrant bud to give a sweet, fruity smell to the
Chypre base.
Again, dont hesitate to add more top notes if you are using an oil base.
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15. LIST OF RARE AND EXPENSIVE OILS
Once you have got acquainted with the basics, you can start experimenting with
the rarest oils (but also the most expensive ones). Below is a list of those used in
fine and luxurious perfumery. Their high price makes them unique and nowadays,
they are rarely used in perfumery which is a real shame since they can add so
much more to a perfume. In the comfort of your home and for your own personal
use, it can be an idea to acquire some. I also give you the name of a couple of
websites on which you can purchase your oils. For rarer ones, you are free to
contact me as I have access to some professional producers/suppliers.
Acacia
Agar wood (Cambodia)
Australian and Indian sandalwood
Blond tobacco
Blue cypress
Bourbon geranium (Reunion island)
Broom
Carnation
Davana
Freesia
Gardenia Tahitensis (Tahiti flower)
German chamomile
Inula
Japanese osmanthus
Jasmine sambac (India)
Magnolia (champaca)
Mimosa
Narcissus (very rare)
Neroli (Tunisia)
Orris absolute
Pink lotus (Asia)
Rhododendron
Rose de Mai (centifolia rose from Grasse)
Rose otto (Turkish Anatolia rose)
Rosewood
Spikenard (Amerindian plant)
Tonka bean (vanilla smell with a coconut undertone also known as
coumarin and found in pipe tobacco)
Tuberose
Violet leaf (Egypt and France)
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Making Perfumes

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Making Perfumes

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Isabelle

Contact: Isabelle Gell

Perfumery : a bit of history 4

Methods and raw materials 7

Starting your own perfume creation 11

Creating a classic Eau de cologne 15

Creating a Floral eau de toilette 16

Eau de Parfum and concentrated perfume 17

Chilling, filtering and decanting process 18

Creating a Chypre base 19

List of rare and expensive oils 20

I have compiled this booklet for you to be able to carry on

Creating a perfume is a complex process requiring a lot of

Enjoy your journey!

NOTE: My method of perfume-making is based on 19 th century books and

Napoleon and Josephine in the 19th century spent fortunes on perfumes

From 1900 to the 1990s, famous perfumers houses proliferated with

Currently, the trends are divided in 2 categories:

o Fragrances for the youth and the commercially oriented

o Fragrances for the eco-citizens such as VINTAGE and

There is a trend towards rediscovery of real scent sensations of

SUBFAMILIES: Floral (rose and jasmine) and fruity

Whether natural or not, a perfume is composed of notes blended together

The combination of these notes create a fragrance and it is the

o Concentrated or pure perfume: Until the 1950s, perfumes were

o Eau de parfum: Typically contains 15 to 20% fragrance in alcohol.

o Eau de toilette: When the fragrance is diluted with distilled water in

o Eau de Cologne is a lighter, fresher fragrance, usually aimed at

o Eau frache (fresh water) is a very modern version of fragrances. It

Perfumes signatures are based on accords, a harmonious blend of several

This is why perfume making is often associated to musical composition as the

7. Headspace technique (or NaturePrint)

1 notebook and pen

1 measurement cylinder (10 ml or higher)

Blank copies of perfume pyramid

1 set of top notes essential oils*

1 set of heart notes essential oils*

1 set of base notes essential oils*

Carrier oil (jojoba or fractionated coconut) or alcohol

A set of 30 ml amber or clear glass bottles

Dry instant coffee in a cup to clear your nostrils

As a reference basis, a balanced NATURAL perfume is usually composed of 1:

IMPORTANT: WRITE DOWN EVERYTHING INCLUDING ANY CHANGE YOU

TOP NOTES HEART NOTES BASE NOTES

Petitgrain Pine Patchouli

Bergamot Rose Pepper

Sage Thyme Benzoin

Chamomile Peppermint Rosewood

Lemon Ylang ylang Sandalwood

Lemongrass Cinnamon Vetiver

Lime Cardamom Myrrh

Frankincense Coriander Oakmoss

Grapefruit Juniper berry Cedarwood

Galbanum Geranium Clove bud

Lavender Ginger Orris

Orange Jasmine Labdanum

Also heart notes Also top notes

6 drops ylang ylang

Optional: 2 drops agar wood

For your homemade perfumes, I recommend using vodka at a minimum of

The typical percentage for an aftershave is 10 to 15% blend in 100% alcohol. If

15 ml alcohol or carrier oil

Solid perfume is fashionable again. It used to be the way to make perfumes

To FILTER, you have two options: