Home Composting

p g Slide Show

Thomas Richard, Robert Kozlowski, Nancy Dickson and Roger Kline

July 1989

http://compost.css.cornell.edu/slideshow/home.slide.html
Composting converts waste, leaves, kitchen scraps and
garden wastes, into a valuable product which, when
used in the garden
garden, results in healthier plant growth
when added to garden soil.
 Composting can also help solve our society's solid
waste disposal problem. Food and yard waste comprise
over 30% of our solid wastes nationwide.
This Slideshow Will Introduce You to Five Basic
Aspects
p of Home Composting:
p g
1. the organisms that are involved in the composting process
2
2. manageable components in the composting process
3. types of materials that can be composted
4. home composting systems
5
5. uses off compostt
I. Organisms Involved in the
Compost Process
Decomposition is a natural part of the nutrient cycle of
living things. Composting is simply human intervention
to enhance and accelerate the decay process
process.
Composting is a microbiological process. Many organisms have
evolved to use decaying matter as their food source. Bacteria
are among the simplest and most common organisms. Single-
Single
celled and microscopic, they are found almost everywhere in the
environment. Although they are too small for us to see, they are
responsible for most decomposition.
decomposition
(Special thanks to David Emerson).
 Fungi and molds are also important. White rot fungi are
well adapted to decompose woody materials like chipped
b h
brush.
Mites and other soil invertebrates feed on bacteria and
fungi, helping to keep their populations in check.
Competition among the different organisms insures that
only the most efficient decomposers multiply.
(Substitution - slide not available in electronic form)
form).
Earthworms are perhaps the most familiar decomposer.
By blending soil and organic matter in their digestive
track they produce stable
track, stable, nutrient-rich
nutrient rich aggregates that
improve the structure of soil.
(Substitution - slide not available in electronic form. Special
thanks to Seattle Tilth Association)
Association).
All decomposers are bound together in a complex feeding web.
They turn organic wastes into a usable humus for the soil
soil.
(Substitution - original slide not available in electronic form).
II. Manageable Components of
the Composting Process
While the natural process of decomposition will occur without
any assistance from us, several factors can be managed to
accelerate the compost process
process.
(Substitution - original slide not available in electronic form).
Organisms utilize carbon as a source of energy and nitrogen
to grow and reproduce. Without enough nitrogen, there will
be few microorganisms, and decomposition will be slow. If
there is too much nitrogen in the compost, some of it will turn
to a
ammonia
o a tthat
at will volatilize,
o at e, ccreating
eat g aan odo
odor.
The optimum C:N ratio is about 30 to 1. This ratio will
make fast
fast, hot compost
compost. Grass
Grass, animal manures and
fresh green plants are high in nitrogen.
 Leaves, brush, sawdust and wood chips are all good
sources of carbon. Blending these carbon sources with
nitrogenous materials can provide a satisfactory C:N ratio.
 Surface area is another key factor to consider. Since
decomposition is a microbiological process, it occurs in thin
films on the surface of particles. A large particle has less total
surface area than the same particle chopped into small pieces
pieces.
Therefore if particles are too big, the process will take longer. A
one-inch wood chip will decompose much slower than grains of
sawdust. An easy way to shred fallen leaves is to mow them
before raking.
 Decomposer organisms need water also. The
decomposition process will slow down with either too much
or too little water
water. The optimum moisture content for
compost is about 40 to 60 percent, damp enough so that a
handful feels moist to the touch, but dry enough that a hard
squeeze produces no more than a drop or two off water.
 Mostt microorganisms
M i i active
ti iin composting
ti require
i oxytgen
t
to live. Their "aerobic" activity forms carbon dioxide and heat
as by-products.
yp If too little oxygen
yg g gets into the compost,
p , the
process can become "anaerobic." This condition results in
foul odors. The by-products of anaerobic decomposition
include methane and hydrogen sulfide gas gas. Hydrogen sulfide
smells like rotten eggs.
 Oxygen will move into the pile if it is loose and there is
plenty of space between particles, as when straw is mixed
in the p
pile. Finer material may y need to be aerated by
y
physically turning the pile with a pitch fork or a compost
turning tool. With the rapid decomposition that occurs with
high nitrogen materials
materials, turning the pile becomes necessary
to prevent anaerobic conditions from developing.
 Heat will be given off as organisms feed on wastes and
break them down into less complex molecules. Ideal
temperatures for composting are between 90 and 150
degrees Fahrenheit. High temperatures can help kill weed
seeds and disease organisms, but temperatures above 150
degrees Fahrenheit will also kill the decomposers and slow
the process.
Compost piles should be a minimum of one cubic yard
in size. Smaller piles may not have enough mass to
h ld th
hold the h
heatt off d
decomposition.
iti
Bacteria reproduce very quickly and are naturally present in
air and soil,, so there is usuallyy no need to add them to the
compost pile. Of the many inoculants, or compost starters
available, the best is a handful of freshly made compost.
III Materials that can be
III.
Composted
Almost any type of organic material can be composted,
but some are especially easy to manage in a home
composting pile. While most leaves are fairly high in
carbon, maple leaves have a C:N ratio near the
optimum level of 30:1. With the right moisture and
frequent turning,
turning maple leaves can break down in just a
few weeks time.

Oak leaves have a C:N ratio of about 60:1, and also

have high levels of tannins which are resistant to decay.
Mixing these leaves with a high nitrogen materials will
accelerate their decomposition.
 Brush can compost or be used as mulch if chipped to a
reasonable size. Because wood chips have a high C:N ratio,
and large particle size,
size they will break down relatively slowly
slowly.
A better alternative is to spread them on paths or use as
mulch, easily recycling them to the landscape. Chips are
often available free from arborists and utility companies.
 Fresh grass clippings are high in nitrogen, about 20:1. By
themselves they are too wet and will mat, creating
unpleasant anaerobic odors. But they will compost well when
mixed with a carbon source such as leaves or brush.
((Special
p thanks to Seattle Tilth Association.))
Short grass clippings are better left on the lawn, where
they will decompose and return nutrients and organic
matter to the soil. Contrary to popular opinion, clippings
will not contribute to thatch buildup.
 Clippings from home lawns treated with pesticides may
contain chemical residues. With few exceptions, these
residues will not persist from one growing season to the
next. If the type and level of pesticide used is unknown,
those materials should not be added to the compost pile.
Vegetable food scraps can be composted at home, but
not meat scraps and grease. These can attract rodents
and
d other
th varmints.
i t
Wood ash can also be added to the compost pile. It has
high levels of potassium and other nutrients for plant
growth.
th
Manures are high in nitrogen, about 20:1, and contain
many organisms helpful to the compost process. While
horse and cow manure are fine to add to the compost
pile, dog and cat litter may contain parasites which can
cause human
u a d disease.
sease
 Other more exotic materials may be available for
composting in your area. These aquatic weeds, while a
problem for water recreation,
recreation make excellent compost if
dried out a bit. Food processors may also have by-
products that are suitable for composting.
(Special thanks to David Stern).
Coarse material, such as corn stalks, small tree and shrub
limbs, can also be composted. Shredding these materials
increases the surface area that organisms can work on
which significantly decreases the time required for
composting.
While operating equipment such as chippers and
mowers, safety
f t glasses
l should
h ld bbe worn.
IV Systems
IV. S t
Yard wastes can be composted using a variety of
systems
y including
g holding
g units,, turningg units and
mulching. Food composting systems include
incorporation, vermicomposting (composting by
earthworms) and turning units
earthworms), units.
 Many different options are available to contain your
compost. One option is a holding unit in which wastes are
accumulated. After materials are added to the holding unit
they are left undisturbed to slowly decompose. Snow
e ce ca
fence can make
a e a ssimple
pea andd movable
o ab e holding
o d g st
structure.
uctu e
 Another option is a wire cage made from fencing or
g materials like
chicken wire. This bin works well for light
leaves.
 Used pallets are often available for free from
manufacturers Tied or nailed together
manufacturers. together, they effectively
contain compost in a stable structure.
Moving compost from bin to bin on a weekly basis will make
rapid compost and provide considerable strenuous exercise!
The turning unit method is used to make compost quickly
and is more suitable for food wastes. Compost is turned
frequently to provide aeration.
 Rotating drums take some of the work out of turning,
and are available from garden supply stores
stores. Such units
often represent considerable investment for the volume
of material composted.
 Perhaps the easiest way to compost food waste is to
bury it in the garden or yard. Bury food waste at least
six
i tto eight
i ht iinches
h d deep tto kkeep animals
i l ffrom di
digging
i it
up. Care should be taken not to damage the roots of
nearby plants.
Recycling food and yard waste can provide a host of benefits for
th garden.
the d C
Compostt iincorporated
t d iin th
the soilil provides
id lilimited
it d
nutrients to plants. However, the organic matter it provides can
significantly improve soil structure, allowing better drainage in
heavy clay soils and improved water retention in light sandy soils.
(Special thanks to Seattle Tilth Association.)
 Screened compost can be blended with soil and peat
and used as a g
growing
g media for containerized p
plants.
A simple screen can be made with hardware cloth and a
wood frame.
 Coarse, partially decomposed compost can also be
used as a mulch. Mulches are useful for water retention
and weed control, but have a cooling effect on soil and
will delay maturity of warm weather crops.
Fresh compost should not be used for germinating seedlings.
The use of sterilized soil is preferred because many seedlings
are susceptible to disease pathogens
pathogens. Compost that has aged
for at least a year is less of a problem, and may prove
beneficial in preventing damping off disease.
(Special thanks to Nancy Trautmann.)
Home composting provides households with the opportunity to
efficiently
ffi i tl convertt waste
t material
t i l into
i t a valuable
l bl soilil
amendment. The ultimate result of the process is a healthier,
more productive and easier to maintain garden. Our challenge
is to change residents' values toward waste disposal and
make them aware of alternative disposal practices. Home
composting offers the opportunity for residents to contribute to
the solution themselves and receive a beneficial product for
their own gardens.