08/04/2017 TheChiefEditor'sChoice:BestoftheIndependents

TheChiefEditorsChoice:BestoftheIndependents

ThetaleoftheIndies:1Chronograph,3Tourbillons,2ThreeHandwatch.
byPeterChong(https://www.deployant.com/author/peterchong/)onApril7,2017

Baselworld2017:ChiefEditor'sBestoftheIndependents
TheIndependentsoftenofferadifferentperspectivethanthemajorbrands.Beingsmall,independent,andsometimesdrivenbydreamsand
passionratherthanthepursuitoffinancialgoals,theirtakeisinteresting.Inmytop5fromBaselworld2017,Iincluded3independents,viz
Faberg,KerbedanzandSinn.ButthecohortofIndependentsthisyearissolarge,thatIhadtodoaseparateonehighlightingthestars.Hereare
mypicksfortheBestoftheIndependentsforBaselworld2017.Inalphabeticalbrandorder.

Fullreview,withmorephotographs,handsonanalysisandcommentaryofallthewatchesfeaturedherewillfollowsoon.

AkriviaAK06
Akriviasmainprotagonist,RexhepRexhepiwasachildprodigy,havingstartedhiscareeratPatekPhilippeatthetenderageof14,andbecomingindependent
in2012afterstintsinBNBandFranckMuller.Sincethen,inthelast5years,hehascreated6calibers.WereviewedhisAkriviaAK02TourbillonHourMinute
(https://www.deployant.com/reviewakriviatourbillonhourminute/)favourablyearlier.ForBaselworld2017,heintroducedtheAK06,thefirstwatchfromhim
withoutatourbillon.

AkriviastimeonlyAK06,thefirstnontourbillonfromthebrand.

Thewatchistimeonly,withapowerreserveindicator,andwithsapphireglassonbothsidesofthecase,itshowcasestheentiremovement.Theregular
plates,train,bridgesandescapementfromtheback,andaviewintothekeylessworksandpowerreservemechanismfromthedialside.Finishingis
immaculate,withtheefforttoensurethetraditionalfinnisagelikeinwardandoutwardanglesaretakencareofwithanobsessiontodetail.
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08/04/2017 TheChiefEditor'sChoice:BestoftheIndependents
Rexhephimselfisaninterestingyoungman.Only30yearsofage,hecarrieshimselfwiththeairandconfidenceofamucholdermaster.Wewillcarryan
articleonourvisittohisworkshopsinGenevaandadetailedhandsonreviewoftheAK06soon.TheAK06isavailableinStainlessSteelforCHF79,000,
inTitaniumforCHF83,000,inrosegoldforCHF87,000andplatinumforCHF91,000allbeforetaxes.

AsaokaChronograph(https://www.deployant.com/baselworld2017introducinghajime
asaokasnewchronograph/)
HajimeAsaokaisanunassuminggentleman.Shyandtaciturnalmosttoafault,hedelightsinhiscreationslikenootherwatchmakerweknow.Selftaught,by
mainlyreadingtheworkofGeorgeDanielsmonumentalvolumeWatchmaking.Asaokahasshownthathehasgoodstayingpowerwithhisearliercreations
makingsuitablewavesinBaselworld.Wecoveredhimindetailinourintroductionarticlehere(https://www.deployant.com/baselworld2014introducinghajime
asaoka/),withourreviewofhisTourbillon#1.AndagaininhisTsunamiproject(https://www.deployant.com/photoessayhajimeasaokaprojecttsunami/).We
highlyrecommendyourefreshyourselfwithaquickread.For2017,heintroducedhisfirstchronograph.

HajimeAsaokasfirstattemptattheChronographisthismagnificentexample.

Thechronographisbuiltfromgroundup,anddesignedoverthebasemovementdevelopedforProjectTsunami,thechronographisnotmodestinproclaiming
itsprovidence.Thechronographworksarevisibleonthedialside,andthetimeindicationforhoursandminutesisrelegatedtoasubcounterat9.In
reflectingitsJapaneseorigins,someofthebridgesarecoveredinurushi,theJapaneseartisanallaquer.

Readalso:ReviewofBreguetTypeXXAeronavale:handsonwithlivephotographs
(https://www.deployant.com/reviewofbreguettypexxaeronavalehandsonwithlivephotographs/)

TheHajimeAsaokaChronographiscurrentlymarketasalimitededitionofthreewatches,pricedat12moraboutUS$108,000.Foragroundup,hand
madechronograph,thepricingisinlinewiththeofferingsofthemajorbrands,liketheVacheronConstantinHarmonyChronograph
(https://www.deployant.com/reviewvacheronconstantinharmonysinglebuttonchronographc3300/)andLangeDatographAuf/Ab
(https://www.deployant.com/sihh2012noveltyexclusivethelangenewdatographaufab/).Asaokamayincreasethenumberdependingondemand,though
thefollowingwatcheswillprobablyhavedifferentfinishingspecificationstothefirst3.

Candaux1740First8
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08/04/2017 TheChiefEditor'sChoice:BestoftheIndependents
DavidCandauxisnotnewtotheworldofwatchmaking.Yetthisishisfirstoutingwithhisnameonthedial.Hehadpreviouslyworkedoncomplicatedwatches
forJaegerLeCoultre(includingtheHybrisMechanicaGrandeSonnerie(https://www.deployant.com/jaegerlecoultrehybrismechanicagrande
sonnerie/)),andalsowasresponsibleforthemovementintheMB&FHM6(https://www.deployant.com/mbfhorologicalmachine6handsreview/).He
isalsothemanbehindthesomewhatunusualbrandFonderie47(http://fonderie47.com).ImpressiveCV.Andthefirstwatchtobearhisnameonthedialisno
lessimpressive.Twoserieswillbeoffered.Thefirstisalimitededitionof8piecescalledsimplyFirst8.Thisistheversionyouseebelow.Andwhenthese
havebeentakenup,asecondserieswillbereleasedwhichwillbeknownasLA1740.DespiteseveraldiscussionswithDavidandhisbusinessdevelopment
personFrdricBle,nofurtherdetailshavebeenprovidedonthedifferencesbetweentheFirst8andtheLA1740.Wewillreportbackif/whenwegetclear
answersfromthembythetimewegolivewiththehandsonreview.

Thedate1740isinreferencetotheyearthefirstwatchmakerssettledattheValedeJoux.Davidhas3patentsand8designregistrationsforthiswatch.

DavidCandauxsFirst8presentsaninterestingvisual.Thefinishingistopdrawer,andthewatchreekswithaneffortlessbeauty.

Thewatchisasymmetric.Thecase,instainlesssteelishigherat12thanitisat6.Thedialisthustiltedtowardstheviewerby3.Andtheasymetryis
extendedtothediallayout.Themaintimedialissmallandmadewithgrandfeuenamelnoless,islaidtooneside,withatourbillon,whichitselfrunsona30
incline,occupyingthespaceonitsleft.Thecrownisinanunusualposition,at6oclock,andisactivatedbypushingitoncetoreleaseit.Oncereleased,it
extendsandoffersthetraditionaltwopositionofwindingandtimesetting.

Themovement,madeofpolishedtitaniumandstainlesssteel,isalsotiltedata3angle,withthegeartrainandbridgessetatthesameangle.A5second
remontoirtothetourbillonensuresaconstantforcetotheescapement.

Finishingistopgrade,onthecaseback,aspecialstripingismadebyhand.CalledCtesduSolliat,inreferencetothetinyvillagehemakesthewatches.His
workshopisnomorethanafewhundredmetersfromtheatelierofmostfamousLeSolliatmasterPhilippeDufour.

Readalso:ThrowbackSundays:SixWatchRecommendationsforValentine'sDayGift,fromOurArchives
(https://www.deployant.com/throwbacksundayssixwatchrecommendationsforvalentinesdaygiftfromourarchives/)

Thoughthedesignisasymmeteric,itiscuriouslyharmonious.Andexudesaeffortlessbeauty.Afulldetailedhandsonreviewwillfollow.Atthetimethisarticle
wentlive,DavidCandauxwasnotabletoconfirmtheretailpricing,despiteseveralemails. Translate
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08/04/2017 TheChiefEditor'sChoice:BestoftheIndependents

CzapekPlaceVendmeTourbillon(https://www.deployant.com/baselworld2017czapekcie
placevendometourbillonsuspenduicietailleurs/)
WecoveredthebasephilosophyofCzapekinanearlierarticlefoundhere(https://www.deployant.com/baselworld2016czapekciequaidesbergues
collection/).Andfindthehonestyanddirectnessofthebrandtobeveryrefreshing.Czapekoffersfulltransparencysuchthatalltheirsuppliersarenamedand
creditedforthebeautifulcreations.TheonlyothercompanyweknowwhoopenlycreditalltheirsuppliersisMB&F.

Notonlywereweimpressedwiththebusinessphilosophy,thewatchesarealsomagnificent.SeeourreviewoftheQuaideBerguesFleurdeLysNo.33
here(https://www.deployant.com/reviewczapekquaideberguesfleurdelysno33/).Thisyear,theyintroducedtheirfirsttourbillon.

CzapeksPlaceVendomeisthefirstskeletonisedtourbillonofferingfromthisnewcompanywithatotallydifferentapproachtoreachingthecollector.

Thenewwatch,calledthePlaceVendmeTourbillonSuspenduIcietAllieurs(looselytranslatedPlaceVendomeSuspendedTourbillonHereand
Elsewhere),acuriousname,butthevisualimageryisstriking.Thedialsideshowsthetimeat12,aoneminutetourbillonat8,andasecondtimezoneat4,a
day/nightindicationat6.Apowerreserveindicatorisshowninaaperturewithinthetimesubdial.

Afirstseriesof10watcheseachinplatinumandrosegoldwillbeofferedandcalledLumires,andwillretailatCHF88,000forrosegoldandCHF99,000
forplatinum.

HaldimannH11andH12insteel
BeatHaldimann,thecreatorofsuchinterestingtimepiecessuchastheH1andtheH11(https://www.deployant.com/haldimannh1h11briefexamination
review/)whichwewaxedlyricalover.Heevenmakesawatchwithatourbillonmovement,butwithnotimeindicationandablankdial.TheH9Reduction,to
showcasetheartofwatchmakingwithouttheabilitytoshowthetime.In2014,hecameupwithanentrylevelwatch.Notourbillon,timeonly,twohands.He
calledthistheH11.Thiswasannouncedinplatinumandgold.Andfor2017,heloweredtheentrygateanothernotch,andpresentedtheH11inasteelcase.
Andaddedamodelwithasubsidiarysecondshand,calledtheH12,alsoinsteel.Perhapsanaffirmationtoourobservationthatthemarketismovingdown
stream,withlessexpensiveofferings.

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08/04/2017 TheChiefEditor'sChoice:BestoftheIndependents

BeatHaldimannsurpriseswithanewentrylevel,relativelyaffordabletimeonlywatch,doneintheHaldimanntradition.

ThemovementfeaturesthesamecentralbalancewheelforboththeH11andH12.TheonlydifferenceistheH12carriesanadditionalsubsidiarysecond
hand.Bothmodelsareofferedin39mmcase,witha42mmcaseavailableonrequest.

Readalso:Review:VacheronConstantinTraditionelleMinuteRepeaterTourbillon
(https://www.deployant.com/reviewvacheronconstantintraditionelleminuterepeatertourbillon/)

PricedatarelativelyaffordableCHF31,000fortheH12,andCHF30,000fortheH11insteel.

PellatonChronomtreRoyaldeMarine
Perhapsbuckingthetrendofmodestpricing,andentrylevelwatchesisanotherresurrectednameJmesCsarPellaton.Thebrandcameintobeingin
2009byMichelDawalibi,althoughthefirstweheardofitwasthisyear.Wepoppedintothelittleboothtuckedatlevel30ofRamadaInn,nowcalledHyperion
Hotel,justbesidethelargehallsinBaselworldandwerepleasantlysurprisedattheofferings.Thephilosophyistofollowthetraditionandexactlyreflectthe
philosophyofJmesCsarPellaton.Andwewereshownapocketwatchandawristwatchwiththesamebasemovement.

ThelayoutofthemovementseemstoustobeveryclosetothearchitectureofthefamousPellatonwatchesofyore.Thedevelopmentofthemovementwas
incollaborationwithAudemarsPiguetRenaudetPapiwhomanufacturesthemovementcomponents.Dawabiliworksonthefinishingandassembly.Andthe
finishingwasindeedquiteremarkable,andperhapsoneofitsmainsellingfeatures.

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08/04/2017 TheChiefEditor'sChoice:BestoftheIndependents

WithanamelikeJamesA.Pellaton,thecompanystributetoitsnamesakefeaturesabeautifultourbillonandabridgelayoutwhichharksbacktothegoodold
days.

Thewatchfeaturesthetourbillonchronometer,witharetrogradedateandpowerreserve.Theoneminutetourbillonishandwoundandlooksveryclassical.
Moreinadetailedreviewwithhandsonanalysislater.

Thewatchisofferedinalimitededitionof36pieces.12inwhitegold,12inrosegold,and12inacustomisableexecution(additionofdiamonds,jewels,hand
engravingoncase,skeletonising,etc).PriceforthewhitegoldandrosegoldisatCHF298,000beforetaxes,andthe12customisablewillbepricedaccording
tothefinalspecification.

Concludingthoughts
Asmentioned,theIndependentsareusuallytheplacetolookforthenextgenerationofnovelties.WhatdothiscropofIndependentstellusofthestateofthe
industry?Weseethreemainthreadsoftrends.ONE.ThemoreestablishedIndependentsarefocusingonentrylevelwatches.WitnesswhatHaldimann,Sinn,
Akrivia,HYTaredoing.Thoughideasofwhatmightbeentrylevelmightnotbethesameacrossthebrands.TWO.Thenewerplayersaremoreambitious,
withbiggerprojects.InthiscategorywecanseebrandslikeCzapek,Kerbedanzwithmorecomplicatedofferings.Butevenforthesebrands,thedictumof
#ComplicationsForLessapplies,asitdidwiththebigglobalbrandsacrossSIHHandBaselworld.THREE.Althoughwedoseeafewpassionateplayerslike
CandauxandPellaton,buckingthistrendwithhighcomplicationwatches,togetherwiththenewGreubelForseyBalancier(https://www.deployant.com/new
releasegreubelforseybalancier/)whichispricedatCHF205,000foratimeonlywatch.(Reviewcomingsoonaswell!).Likewise,theRichardMilleRM5003
(https://www.deployant.com/reviewrichardmillerm5003tourbillonsplitsecondschronograph/)atmorethanCHF1Mbuttsthetrend,butRMisoneofthe
fewbrandswhichseemtodefygravity,andbecomingevenmoresuccessfulasthepricesescalate.

Wealsoseethedisappearanceofoneofourfavouritebrands,DeBethune,whichweunderstandisundergoingthethroesofownershipchange.We
understandDavidZanettaisatthefinalstagesofsellingthecompanyandthenewownerswillretaintechnicalgenius,DenisFlageolletatthetechnical
helm.WealsoseeveteranIndieslikePhilippeDufourandVianneyHalterstayingatthesidelines,withnonewwatchestoshow,perhapswaitingforthestorm
topass.

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