Hydroponic Tomato Production

2013 Harley N. Smith

All rights reserved.

Nothing tastes better than a vine-ripened tomato, picked fresh from the garden in the
middle of summer, thick sliced while still warm from the summer sun, drizzled with a
little salt and olive oil, and served with a sprig of fresh basil. Why is it then that a
supermarket tomato can be so tasteless, especially out of season? There are a variety of
reasons. First, commercial growers are concerned mostly about yield, not about quality.
They get paid to produce tons of big, red tomatoes that look good on the shelf; flavor is
secondary. Second, modern, commercial tomato varieties are bred for size, color and
resistance to common greenhouse diseases; again, flavor is secondary. Third, most
commercial tomatoes are grown out of state or even out of this country. So to reduce
damage during transport, the tomatoes are picked at breaker stage, barely yellow or
pink, crated for cross-country shipping, then artificially ripened with ethylene gas to look
better on the shelf; once again, flavor is secondary.

It is possible, however, to produce delicious tomatoes year round, if flavor and quality are
given first priority. With a properly managed hydroponic system, it is possible to double
the lycopene content of tomatoes, increase vitamin-C content by up to 50%, and
significantly improve the sugars, organic acids and flavors of tomatoes picked ripe from
the vine. The grower may have to sacrifice a little yield, and he may have to limit
distribution to a more localized market, but it is definitely possible to produce tomatoes
that taste like they came out of the garden in August, year round!

Indoor and Outdoor Production

For the hobbyist, it is possible to grow a bumper crop of gourmet-quality tomatoes

indoors under lights. For example, with a 3 X 3 flood-and-drain system under a 600-
watt high pressure sodium light it is possible to harvest literally thousands of vine-
ripened cherry tomatoes all winter long. Flood-and-drain systems are great for medium
sized plants. The plants are held in individual pots in the upper growing tray, and the
water and nutrients are stored in a reservoir underneath. A timer clicks a pump on,
flooding the roots with nutrient-rich water. When the timer turns off, the nutrient
solution drains back into the reservoir, pulling fresh oxygen to the roots. For tomatoes,
the timer is usually set to flood three or four times per day, and the lights are left on up to
16 hours per day. The trick is to choose a determinate variety of tomato such as Red
Robin cherry tomatoes. Determinate varieties, sometimes designated as a bush tomato
or patio variety, only grow to a certain height then stop. Little or no pruning or staking
is required, and a bumper crop of ripe tomatoes can be harvested all winter long in a
relatively small space.

Outdoor hydroponics is a favorite of some tomato growers in the summer. For example,
tomatoes can be started indoors under lights, transplanted into BATO buckets for early
vegetative growth, and then spaced outdoors in rows for the summer. An irrigation line

1
is set up with individual emitters at each container, and inch-and-a-quarter PVC pipe is
used to return the water and nutrients to the reservoir. To save space, the reservoir is
usually buried or partially buried and the BATO buckets are placed at or slightly above
ground level. In full sun, hydroponic tomatoes grow extremely fast, sometimes up to six
inches per day, and yields are phenomenal. Best of all, there are no weeds to pull! The
only down side to outdoor production is that the fruit must be protected from pests and
animals, and summer storms can reek havoc on unprotected plants. But if a few
precautions are taken, an outdoor hydroponic garden can be the envy of the
neighborhood!

Most commercial tomato production is done in greenhouses. Rows are oriented north to
south so that plants receive the greatest amount of light, and indeterminate varieties are
usually chosen. Unlike determinate varieties that reach a certain height and stop
growing, indeterminate tomato vines continue to grow throughout the year, sometimes
reaching lengths of more than 50 feet! Two wires are strung above each row, with rolls
of twine called tommyhooks hanging down to the plants. As the vines grow, the plants
are attached to the twine with vine clips, and any suckers are removed. Once the vine
reaches the wire, a little twine is unrolled and the vine is lowered and slid down the wire.
This method of vine training is called lean and lower, and the vines are wrapped round
and round the rows as they grow.

Indeterminate varieties allow a continuous harvest of tomatoes for the entire year. The
tomatoes at the bottom of the vine ripen first. They are harvested, and the next set of
tomatoes ripens. As the vine grows, the bottom leaves are stripped from the plant, the
vine is leaned and lowered, and the top six feet of the plant continues to produce fruit and
flowers. Since tomatoes are perennials, the process could continue for years, but after
eleven or twelve months, the vines become so long that the transportation of water and
nutrients becomes inefficient, and production begins to slow down. Therefore, most
commercial growers replace the old vines with new vines after eleven months or so.

Hydroponic Growing Mediums

Several growing mediums are suitable for growing tomatoes in hydroponic systems.
NFT systems use the least amount of growing medium. NFT, or Nutrient Film
Technique, uses just enough growing medium to hold the seedling, and the roots grow
directly in the flow of nutrient solution. Since tomatoes are long-term crops, the troughs
must be wide enough to hold a massive root structure without clogging up the flow. If
areas of stagnant water develop, anaerobic root rots can take hold and spread throughout
the system. Therefore, NFT troughs at least 10-12 wide are usually recommended for
tomatoes, and care must be taken to ensure that all pumps are functioning properly. If a
pump were to fail, a crop could be lost in a matter of hours!

BATO buckets are sometimes used for greenhouse tomato production, either in
recirculating or drain-to-waste systems. BATO buckets, also known as Dutch Pots, were
designed in Holland as an improvement over standard plastic pots. Two tomato plants
can be held in each BATO bucket, with two emitter stakes per bucket. Water and

2
nutrients are pumped to each container through an irrigation line and returned to the
reservoir through PVC pipes. Each BATO bucket is equipped with a specially-designed
drainage elbow that creates a siphon effect for draining off excess water. If a pump were
to fail, however, an inch or two of nutrient solution would collect in the bottom of the
container, acting as a temporary reservoir for the plant. Most common growing mediums
for BATO buckets are granulated rockwool, perlite, coconut fiber and expanded clay
pellets. Sometimes a mixture of perlite/vermiculite is used, but vermiculite should never
be used as the sole growing medium for tomatoes. Vermiculite tends to lock up
important cations such as potassium, making them unavailable to the plant

The most popular growing medium for tomatoes and other long-term crops is rockwool.
Rockwool is made from basaltic rock, the material that the Earths crust is made of. The
rock is crushed and melted at 3500 degrees F. The molten rock is then poured into
spinning cylinders, similar to how cotton candy is made, and the rock fiber is spun and
cut into blocks of various sizes and shapes. Sheets of one-inch rockwool starter cubes are
made to fit into standard nursery trays, growing blocks of various sizes are used to hold
individual plants, and slabs of rockwool are used to grow multiple plants in rows.
Rockwool is an ideal growing medium since it has a perfect balance between air and
water holding capacity. If rockwool is allowed to drain freely, it is nearly impossible to
over water and kill young plants. Rockwool also has a zero cation exchange, meaning
that none of the essential plant nutrients are locked up by the growing medium, so all
of the minerals in the nutrient solution are available to the plant.

Propagation In Rockwool

Most tomatoes are started from seeds, and rockwool is an excellent propagation medium.
A sheet of 98 one-inch starter cubes is placed in a standard nursery tray. Rockwool
conditioning solution is then mixed and poured over the rockwool to soak over night.
Rockwool conditioning solution has a pH of about 5.5 to neutralize the limestone dust
retained in the rockwool during the manufacturing process. Once the pH is neutralized,
the pH of the rockwool remains stable throughout its life. Rockwool conditioning
solution also contains a mild nutrient solution to help seedlings get off to a good head
start, and it often contains other beneficial ingredients such as B-vitamins and root
promoters. The main purpose of the conditioning solution, however, is to stabilize pH,
and pH adjusted water is often all that is necessary to prepare the rockwool for planting.

When conditioning rockwool, make sure that the rockwool is completely submerged in
conditioning solution, and allow it to soak for at least 24 hours. When you are ready to
plant the seeds, drain off the excess solution so that the rockwool is not sitting in a puddle
of standing water. If the rockwool is sitting in a puddle, the air pores can fill with water,
and the emerging seedlings could suffer. So drain off all standing water then put a seed
into each starter cube. Some growers like to cover the seeds with a layer of vermiculite
or other water holding material, but if the rockwool remains moist, it usually isnt
necessary. It is beneficial, however, to cover the rockwool trays with a humidity dome,
and to place them on a heating mat. The dome will retain the relative humidity at about

3
98%, and the heating mat will hold the substrate temperature at about 78 degrees F., ideal
for seed germination.

While the seeds are germinating, leave the humidity dome on and place the tray under
fluorescent lights, about 3 inches from the growing tips. Full spectrum fluorescents bulbs
are best, since the red end of the spectrum helps stimulate root growth, but it is
sometimes more economical to alternate full spectrum bulbs with cool white fluorescent
bulbs for a germination station. The cool white bulbs are usually cheaper and they have
plenty of blue spectrum light to help keep the emerging seedlings from stretching.

Once all the seeds germinate, remove the humidity dome. If you leave the dome on too
long, the high humidity can set up an environment for fungal growth that could
eventually harm the seedlings. Just make sure that the rockwool remains moist. If the
rockwool dries out completely, the tender seedlings will quickly die! To test for moisture,
simply lift the tray a little to see how heavy it is. If needed, re-soak the rockwool with
room temperature water and gently pour off the excess. Normally, however, the
rockwool will retain enough moisture to last for at least a week or two.

Once the first true leaves develop and the roots start to poke out of the bottom of the
rockwool starter cubes, the tomatoes are ready for transplanting. Note that the first true
leaves are not the first leaves that appear. The first leaves to appear are the cotyledons
or embryonic leaves that emerge from the seed. They often die back once the plant starts
to mature. The first true leaves are actually the second leaves that appear after the
plant germinates and starts to grow, and their appearance is an indicator that new roots
are developing. If in doubt, simply lift up a corner of the starter cubes and take a peak. If
you see roots, the seedlings are ready to transplant!

Since tomatoes are a long-term crop, it is often best to transplant the starter cube into a
four-inch growing block as an intermediate step. As with the starter cubes, soak the
rockwool blocks in pH adjusted conditioning solution 24 hours before transplanting.
When ready to transplant, drain off the excess water then simply place the starter cube
into the precut hole in the growing block. The plants can then go back under the
fluorescent lights for a couple of more weeks until the roots start to poke out from the
bottom of the growing blocks and the seedlings become better established.

Rockwool-Based Hydroponic Systems

Whether a hobbyist or commercial grower, rockwool-based hydroponic systems are an

excellent choice for growing tomatoes and other long-term crops. Since rockwool has
such a high air and water-holding capacity, large plants can be grown on a relatively
small amount of growing medium without becoming root bound. For example, a one foot
by three foot slab of rockwool, 2.5 inches deep, can support four full-grown tomato
plants with 35 foot vines for a full year, and the same slab can be used to support another
four plants the following year! Due to rockwools excellent drainage ability, it is
practically impossible to over water and kill young plants, and due to its zero cation

4
exchange capacity, its easy for growers to provide the perfect nutrient balance at the root
zone.

Once tomato seeds are germinated and the seedlings are established in growing blocks,
the tomatoes can be transplanted to rows of growing slabs. Rockwool slabs are covered
in plastic material to prevent unwanted algae growth. 24 hours before transplanting, the
rockwool slabs are soaked in pH adjusted conditioning solution with the plastic intact.
After soaking the slabs over night, drainage slits are cut into the plastic material and the
solution is drained and discarded. The locations for each seedling is determined, X-
shaped cuts are made in the plastic the size of the growing blocks. The cut portions of
plastic is peeled back, and the growing blocks are placed on the exposed sections of the
slabs, bare rockwool to bare rockwool. A drip emitter stake is then placed at each
location to anchor each block and provide water and nutrients to each plant. It is best to
push in the emitter stakes between the plastic and the rockwool, just below the surface a
quarter inch or so. This will keep the surface of the growing block dryer, reducing algae
growth. The grain of the rockwool is such that the roots grow vertically through the
blocks and horizontally in the slabs. The nutrient flows over the roots, drains out of the
slab, and is captured and returned to the reservoir.

Rockwool is great for recirculating systems. Enough nutrient solution can be provided at
each irrigation cycle that 35% or more leachate can be recovered without over watering
the plants. The more leachate, the closer the EC in the slab is to the EC in the reservoir.
At the hobbyist level, tomatoes can be irrigated 24 hours per day without adverse effects.
But at the professional level in a greenhouse, the irrigation cycles are more precisely
timed to help steer the crop and help prevent fruit disorders such as cracking and
russeting. Shorter irrigation cycles more times per day tend to steer the crop in the
vegetative direction (more vines and leaves). And longer irrigation cycles fewer times
per day tend to steer the crop in the generative direction (more fruit and flowers). Also,
since plants dont take up as much water at night, stopping all irrigation before nightfall
tends to better drain the slab and prevent excessive root pressure. Hence, fruit cracking
and other cultural problems associated with unbalanced irrigation can be reduced or
eliminated all together.

Generally speaking, irrigation cycles in a greenhouse are determined by light levels. In a

modern computer-controlled greenhouse, light sensors are used to measure accumulated
light levels every ten minutes. No irrigation is required until the plants become
photosynthetically active, normally about 2 hours after sunrise. Once the plants
accumulate about 250 mega Joules of light energy, the first irrigation cycle is triggered,
and additional irrigation cycles are triggered during the day, driven by the amount of
accumulated sunshine. On overcast days, when light accumulates much more slowly, a
timer overrides the system so that the rockwool doesnt get too dry between irrigation
cycles. The computer also factors in other variables such as temperature, humidity, stage
of plant growth, and nutrient concentration to fine tune irrigation rates for optimal yields.

5
Nutrient Solution Management

Hydroponics allows precise control of plant nutrition at the root zone. In other words,
hydroponics is like creating the perfect soil. Or more precisely, hydroponics is like
creating the perfect soil for each stage of the plants growing cycle. At the vegetative
growth stage of tomatoes, a grow formula can be used that is proportionally higher in
nitrogen. At the fruiting and flowering stage, a bloom formula can be used with
increased levels of phosphorous and potassium.

During the maintenance stage, when all the vines are bearing heavily, a boost formula can
be used to help maintain the proper nitrogen to potassium levels between reservoir
changes. During heavy fruiting and flowering, all of the potassium can be removed from
the reservoir in a matter of days. If the plants suffer from potassium deficiency, the fruit
will be watery with low sugar content and poor shelf life. Therefore, using a boost
formula will put back into the reservoir what the plants took out. If, on the other hand,
too much potassium is added to the reservoir, potassium toxicity can occur. Potassium
toxicity shows up as a magnesium deficiency, so the bottom leaves will start turning
yellow. If this happens, simply back off on the boost formula. In severe cases, spraying
a mild solution of Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) on the lower leaves will green the
leaves up over night.

EC is also important to vigorous plant growth and good fruit quality. During the
vegetative growth stage, a low to medium EC is recommended: somewhere between 12
and 24 cf. At the fruiting and flowering stage, medium to high EC is recommended;
somewhere between 24 and 38 cf. Experienced commercial growers can go even higher,
up to 60 cf! There is a direct proportional relationship between the EC levels and sugar
content in the fruit. Although high ECs tend to restrict vegetative growth, resulting in a
little less overall yield, increased sugar content makes the tomatoes taste more like home-
grown from the garden!

There is also a direct proportional relationship between EC and lycopene content.

Lycopene is the red pigment in tomatoes, and it is a powerful cancer-fighting antioxidant.
According to studies done at the University of Arizona, tomatoes grown at very high
ECs (40 to 50 cf) can result in doubling the lycopene content of the fruit. Raising the
EC at the root zone creates a salt stress, making it harder for the plant to take up water.
Under stress, the plant condenses sugars, vitamins, organic acids and antioxidants in the
fruit to protect itself and store up energy for reproduction. For example, vitamin-C
production can rise by as much as 50% when the plants are subjected to just the right
levels of EC stress.

Dont overdo it, though. Every plant has its limits, and if you push the plant too far you
can hurt the plant more than help it. If, for example, you raise the EC under hot, dry
conditions, the plant might not be able to take up enough water fast enough, and it will
begin to wither, turn brown and die! If you see signs of stress, such as leaf curling, thats
still all right, but if you see signs of burning at the edges of the leaves, add more water

6
to lower the EC and reduce the stress on the plant. Experience will show you just how
far you can push your tomatoes, but remember that every cultivar is different!

pH is also important to healthy plant growth and good fruit quality. Most plants do well
at a slightly acidic pH of 5.8 to 6.4. Tomatoes tend to fall into the acid-loving category,
with a pH of 5.8 to 6.0 being a good target. Some growers will go as low as 5.5 with no
apparent negative side effects, especially when growing in rockwool.

The addition of small amounts of organic biostimulants to the nutrient solution can also
improve quality and yield. For example, amino-acid blends can result in earlier ripening
and extending shelf life. Glutamic acid and glycine improve the calcium pectate levels in
the skin of the fruit, and methionine is a precursor for natural ethylene production,
triggering and enhancing the ripening process. Seaweed extracts, B-vitamins, and humic
acid can stimulate the production of enzymes that protect the plant under stress, and
bloom stimulants can introduce zinc-finger transcription factors to increase flower and
fruit production at the genetic level. If plants can be conditioned to handle increased
levels of stress, it may be possible to push EC levels to new heights without harming the
plant!

Horticultural Lighting

Tomatoes are light-loving plants and do best in full sunshine. So for indoor gardening,
light is the limiting factor for strong plant growth. Tomatoes, like most other plants, need
full-spectrum light to grow and reproduce. During the vegetative growth stage, tomatoes
prefer the blue end of the spectrum, and during fruiting and flowering, tomatoes prefer
the red end of the spectrum.

During the vegetative growth stage, metal halide lighting is the lamp of choice. Metal
halide lights are full-spectrum lights, rich in the blue end of the spectrum. Blue is
responsible for chlorophyll production more than any other color in the spectrum, and
blue at the 460 nm wavelength is the only wavelength that influences phototropism
(leaning towards the light). If you bomb a tomato seedling with plenty of blue spectrum
light, the plants will be short and stocky, with thick stems and plenty of dark green
foliage. On closer inspection, the leaves will have thicker cuticle cells (waxy covering)
to help protect them against fungi and disease, and the stomata, the pores used to take in
carbon dioxide, will be more numerous and denser on the undersides of the leaves. In
short, the seedling will turn into a vigorous, photosynthesis machine, revved up to
produce a bumper crop of future fruit!

A 400 watt MH lamp will cover up to a 4 X 4 area. So it is important to keep the light
as close to the plants as possible without burning the leaves, usually about a foot to a foot
and a half above the growing tips. It is best to hang the light on chains with S hooks, so
that you can easily raise the lights as the plants grow. An alternative to metal halide
lamps are the new T-5 high output fluorescent lamps. An eight-bulb fixture puts out over
400 watts of light energy, but much less heat than MH bulbs. Therefore, it is possible to
place the lights much closer to the seedlings without burning them. If space is at a

7
premium, the T-5 fixtures can be easily mounted on shelves, allowing a much better use
of vertical space. Side by side trials between MH and T-5 lights show comparable results
for vegetative growth of tomatoes, but T-5 lighting is more energy efficient.

At the fruiting and flowering stage, plants prefer the red end of the spectrum, and high
pressure sodium (HPS) lamps are the lamps of choice. A good horticultural HPS bulb is
rich in the red and far red portions of the spectrum, stimulating fruiting and flowering,
but it has just enough blue spectrum to help prevent the plants from stretching. Standard
HPS bulbs, such as those used in warehouses, are not recommended for indoor growing.
Standard bulbs have almost no blue light, and plants grown under them will tend to be
tall and spindly with poor yield. So when growing indoors under all artificial light, make
sure that the HPS bulb is rated for horticultural use. A 1000 watt HPS light will cover up
to a 6 X 6 area when no other light source is available. In a greenhouse setting, a 1000
watt HPS lamp will cover up to a 10 X 10 area. HPS lamps are the norm in greenhouse
tomato production because there is usually plenty of blue light available from the sky to
keep the plants from stretching. The HPS lamps are used only to extend the day length
and stimulate increased fruiting and flowering.

For the best results when growing tomatoes indoors, germinate seeds under fluorescents,
grow seedlings under MH or T-5 lighting, and produce fruit under more powerful HPS
lamps. The MH light will provide strong, vigorous plants and the HPS light will provide
a bumper crop of fruit and flowers. Dont skimp on light!

Temperature and Humidity Control

Since tomatoes are native to tropical climates, tomato plants can thrive at relatively high
daytime temperatures of 75 to 80 degrees F, with night time temperatures between 65 and
70 degrees. In a computer controlled greenhouse, night temperatures are determined by
accumulated light measurements. The computer measures the total accumulated light
during the day, and adjusts the night time temperatures accordingly. If the previous day
had a high level of accumulated sunlight, the night temperatures are raised to increase the
metabolism of the plants. But if the previous day was cold and overcast, energy can be
saved by lowering the night time temperatures without sacrificing yields.

Temperature control can also affect the size of fruit. If larger tomatoes are desired, night
temperatures must reach target levels as quickly as possible. As dusk approaches, the
computer senses the decreasing light levels and rapidly lowers the greenhouse
temperatures to the night time levels. Since the leaves cool down faster than the fruit
temperature, most of the water and photosynthates are transported into the warmer fruit,
and the fruit swells to a larger size!

Humidity control is also important for fruit quality. Under high humidity, less water
vapor is transpired from the plant. The transpiration stream is very important for calcium
uptake, so under high relative humidity a calcium deficiency can easily occur. Calcium
deficiency shows up as blossom end rot in the fruit, making the tomatoes unsaleable! To
a hobbyist, a simple thermostat/humidistat controller is usually enough to keep

8
temperature and humidity at acceptable levels, but commercial growers need a greater
level of control. In an advanced computer controlled greenhouse, the computer measures
air temperature, tissue temperature and relative humidity to determine the vapor pressure
deficit (VPD) of the plants. Low humidity (high VPD) can be as detrimental as high
humidity (low VPD). If the VPD is too high, the leaves will transpire too rapidly, and not
enough calcium will make it into the fruit. If the VPD is too low, the leaves wont
transpire enough and not enough calcium will make it into the fruit. Either extreme could
result in blossom end rot! Computer controls that factor in VPD pay for themselves very
quickly in a commercial greenhouse. They not only prevent blossom end rot more
effectively, but they are more energy friendly than conventional humidity controls and
thermostats. Driven by VPD calculations, computer controls actuate exhaust fans,
heating and cooling systems in incremental stages to keep the transpiration stream active
at the lowest possible energy costs.

Indoors, ideal temperatures and humidity are easy to maintain since the ambient
atmosphere is usually at a comfortable room temperature of 68 to 72 degrees F. When
the lights are on, the temperature is naturally a few degrees higher than when the lights
are off at night, ideal for growing good tomatoes. In fact, if the growing area is in a large
enough room, a simple oscillating fan is often more than adequate for keeping
temperature and relative humidity at acceptable levels! Even the light bill is relatively
insignificant for a small indoor tomato garden, usually less than $1.75 per day. So if you
love gardening, and you are on a quest for the perfect tomato, then a modest indoor
hydroponic garden may be just right for you.

In a commercial greenhouse, temperature and humidity control is not as easy, and

overhead can quickly erode profits! Greenhouses have a low R-factor. In other words,
they do not have very good insulating ability. Most greenhouses have to be heated in the
winter and cooled in the summer, and they can be very energy inefficient. Computer
controls can help increase efficiency, but even computers have their limitations.
Therefore, it is not uncommon for commercial growers in northern climates to shut down
their greenhouses during the coldest winter months to save on the high costs of heating.
Other growers choose to operate at a loss in the winter in order to retain market share.
Not a good option!

As fuel costs and electrical costs continue to escalate, new, improved insulating materials
for grow rooms and greenhouses must be developed, especially for growing tropical
crops such as tomatoes. For example, Blue Max insulated concrete has an R-factor of 50,
compared to an R-factor of 15 for a typical greenhouse. With adequate insulation,
horticultural lighting can do double-duty, providing both heat and light in the cold winter
months. Other energy-saving technologies are also on the horizon. For example, hybrid
lighting systems, combining fiber optics with high efficiency l.e.d.s, can efficiently
harvest wind and solar energy and produce low-cost lighting for underground grow
rooms. By developing other emerging technologies such as alternative energy
production, co-generation of heat and electricity, computer environmental controls, and
modern hydroponics technologies, winter production of tomatoes and other tropical crops
will become more economically viable in northern climates.