Garment Inspection Guideline

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Table of Contents
1. Purpose ..............................................................................................................................7
2. General Process for Garment Inspection .....................................................................8-9
3. Legal Requirements and Regulations Regarding Apparel.............................................10
3.1. Textile fiber products identification act .......................................................................11
3.1.1. Generic names ................................................................................................... 11-12
3.2. Trade names ................................................................................................................... 12
3.2.1. Order .......................................................................................................................12
3.2.2. Registered identification number ..............................................................................12
3.2.3. Country of origin ......................................................................................................13
3.2.4. Tolerances ...............................................................................................................13
3.2.5. Fibers present in amounts less than 5% ...................................................................13
3.2.6. Sectional disclosure .................................................................................................14
3.2.7. Ornamentation and trim ...........................................................................................14
3.2.8. Products containing linings, fillings and paddings ....................................................14
3.3. Wool products labelling act .........................................................................................15
3.4. Tips for writing a textile apparel care label ..................................................................15
4. Measurements ................................................................................................................16
4.1. General requirements ............................................................................................ 17-18
4.2. Measurement guide for tops .......................................................................................19
4.2.1. Measurement tips .............................................................................................. 19-20
4.2.2. Minimum neck stretched .........................................................................................21
4.2.3. Neck width ......................................................................................................... 21-22
4.2.4. Neck drop ................................................................................................................23
4.2.5. Shoulder seam length ..............................................................................................23
4.2.6. Sleeve length ...........................................................................................................24
4.2.7. Height of armhole.....................................................................................................25
4.2.8. Girth top of sleeve ....................................................................................................26
4.2.9. Bottom sleeve width .............................................................................................26
4.2.10. Chest .................................................................................................................27
4.2.11. Mid armhole across front .......................................................................................28
4.2.12. Mid armhole across back .......................................................................................28
4.2.13. 1/2 Waist ...............................................................................................................29
4.2.14. Straight across hem ...............................................................................................29
4.2.15. Center front height .................................................................................................30
4.2.16. Front length from shoulder .....................................................................................31
4.2.17. Center back height .................................................................................................31

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4.2.18. Back length from shoulder .....................................................................................32
4.3. Measurement guide for bottoms .................................................................................32
4.3.1. Definition of attached waistband and nonattached waistband ............................ 32-33
4.3.2. 1/2 Maximum flat stretched waistband ....................................................................33
4.3.3. 1/2 Flat waist ...........................................................................................................34
4.3.4. 1/2 Hips ...................................................................................................................35
4.3.5. 1/2 Thigh .................................................................................................................35
4.3.6. 1/2 Knee ..................................................................................................................36
4.3.7. 1/2 Bottom leg .........................................................................................................36
4.3.8. Front rise with waistband .........................................................................................37
4.3.9. Front rise under waistband ......................................................................................37
4.3.10. Side skirt height with waistband .............................................................................38
4.3.11. Trousers side height with waistband ......................................................................38
4.3.12. Inside leg length .....................................................................................................39
4.3.13. Front skirt height with waistband ...........................................................................39
4.3.14. Front skirt height without waistband ......................................................................40
4.3.15. Back skirt height with waistband ............................................................................40
4.3.16. Back skirt height without waistband .......................................................................40
4.3.17. Back rise with waistband .......................................................................................41
4.3.18. Back rise under waistband .....................................................................................41
4.3.19. Height of waistband ...............................................................................................42
4.4. Measurement guide for underwear ........................................................................ 43-44
4.4.1. Underwear top ................................................................................................ 44-45
4.4.1.a. Drop height .........................................................................................................45
4.4.1.b. Drop width ..........................................................................................................46
4.4.1.c. Total strap length ......................................................................................... 46-47
4.4.1.d. Back strap length ......................................................................................... 47-48
4.4.1.e. Front strap length ...............................................................................................48
4.4.1.f. Strap width ..........................................................................................................49
4.4.1.g. Bustier strap height ...................................................................................... 49-50
4.4.1.h. Dart cup height ...................................................................................................50
4.4.1.i. Top cup height ............................................................................................... 50-51
4.4.1.j. Cup height............................................................................................................51
4.4.1.k. Bottom cup height ..............................................................................................52
4.4.1.l. Cup low length .............................................................................................. 52-53
4.4.1.m. Lower arm length + back ............................................................................ 53-55
4.4.1.n. Under bust measurement 1st hook ................................................................56
4.4.1.o. Top width of separator .......................................................................................56
4.4.1.p. Height of separator ............................................................................................57
4.4.1.q. Bottom width of separator .................................................................................57

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4.4.2. Underwear - bottom .................................................................................................57
4.4.2.a. Maximum flat stretched waistband ................................................................57
4.4.2.b. Flat waist ........................................................................................................58
4.4.2.c. Hips .......................................................................................................... 58-59
4.4.2.d. Gusset length .....................................................................................................60
4.4.2.e. Thigh ......................................................................................................... 60-62
4.4.2.f. Side length - underwear + swimsuit .............................................................. 62-65
4.4.2.g. Front gusset width .............................................................................................65
4.4.2.h. Back gusset width ..............................................................................................66
4.4.2.i. Total length .................................................................................................... 66-68
4.4.2.j. Seat width ...........................................................................................................68
4.4.2.k. Total waist length from first hook .......................................................................69
4.4.2.l. Side strap spacing ...............................................................................................70
4.4.2.m. Middle front and side strap spacing .................................................................70
4.4.2.n. Distance between middle back & side ................................................................71
5. On-site Testing ................................................................................................................72
5.1. Carton drop test 1 carton per style ..........................................................................73
5.2. Barcode scan check 2pc of each barcode ................................................................73
5.3. Fitting check 1 per size ............................................................................................73
5.4. SPI check 2pc of each style .....................................................................................73
5.5. Pull test accessories 2pc of each style.....................................................................73
5.6. Crock test for marking & printing 2pc of each style .................................................73
5.7. Dry crock test for fabric 2pc of each style ................................................................74
5.8. Wet crock test for fabric 2pc of each style ...............................................................74
5.9. Fatigue test 2pc of each style ..................................................................................74
5.10. Fabric GSM check 1pc of each style ......................................................................74
5.11. Color shading assessment ........................................................................................74
5.12. Stretch test for elastic fabric and straps full sample size inspected .....................75
5.13. Seam strength check full sample size inspected ...................................................75
6. Defect definitions, classifications and zoning ..............................................................76
6.1. Defect definitions.........................................................................................................77
6.1.1. Critical defect ...........................................................................................................77
6.1.2. Major defect ............................................................................................................77
6.1.3. Minor defect ............................................................................................................78
6.2. Defect classifications ..................................................................................................78
6.2.1. General condition .....................................................................................................78
6.2.2. Fabric ......................................................................................................................79
6.2.3. Color ........................................................................................................................79
6.2.4. Dirt ..........................................................................................................................80
6.2.5. Sewing ............................................................................................................... 80-81

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6.2.6. Labelling & packaging ..............................................................................................82
6.2.7. Accessories / trim ....................................................................................................83
6.2.8. Interlinings ...............................................................................................................83
6.2.9. Components ............................................................................................................84
6.3. Zoning .........................................................................................................................84
6.3.1. Jacket zone sketch ..................................................................................................85
6.3.2. Pants zone sketch ....................................................................................................86
6.3.3. Skirt zone sketch .....................................................................................................87
6.3.4. Shirt/blouse zone sketch .........................................................................................88
6.3.5. T-shirt zone sketch ...................................................................................................89
6.3.6. Sweater zone sketch ................................................................................................90
6.4. Examples with photos of garment defects ..................................................................91
6.4.1. Sewing defects .................................................................................................. 91-93
6.4.2. Fabric defects ..........................................................................................................93
6.4.3. Treatment defects ....................................................................................................94
6.4.4. Other defects ...........................................................................................................94
7. Appendix ..........................................................................................................................95
7.1. General measurement drawings ..................................................................................96
7.1.1. Skirt ................................................................................................................... 96-98
7.1.2. Pants ............................................................................................................... 99-100
7.1.3. Jeans ............................................................................................................. 101-103
7.1.4. Shirt ............................................................................................................... 104-105
7.1.5. Sleeveless top ........................................................................................................106
7.1.6. Wrap top ................................................................................................................107
7.1.7. Jacket ............................................................................................................ 108-110
7.1.8. Coat........................................................................................................................111
7.1.9. Dress ............................................................................................................. 112-113
7.1.10. Cami ....................................................................................................................114
7.1.11. Reglan ......................................................................................................... 115-116
7.2. Important inspection notes by garment type ............................................................117
7.2.1. Coat .......................................................................................................................117
7.2.2. Jacket ....................................................................................................................118
7.2.3. Womens blazer ......................................................................................................118
7.2.4. Dress .....................................................................................................................119
7.2.5. Top ........................................................................................................................119
7.2.6. Pants and jeans .....................................................................................................120
7.2.7. Shorts ....................................................................................................................121
7.2.8. T-shirt ....................................................................................................................121
7.2.9. Knitwear ................................................................................................................122
7.2.10. Mens shirt ...........................................................................................................122

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7.3. Instructions for woven and knit fabrics .....................................................................123
7.3.1. Woven fabric...........................................................................................................123
7.3.1.a. Woven fabric ............................................................................................ 123-124
7.3.1.b. Woven fabric ............................................................................................ 124-126
7.3.2. Knitted fabric .........................................................................................................126
7.3.2.a. Woven fabric ............................................................................................ 126-129
7.3.2.b. Warp knitting ............................................................................................ 130-131
About InTouch ...................................................................................................................132

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PURPOSE
The Garment Inspection Criteria Guidelines are meant to provide a general procedure
for garment inspections.

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Chapter One
GENERAL PROCESS
FOR GARMENT
INSPECTION

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Order Status and Storage Condition Check
Count the (1) production quantity packed Observe the production quantity stored in
and (2) finished but not packed. good condition.
Carton Pulling
Randomly select and pull cartons according Watch the factory move the selected cartons
to InTouch IOP_1.3 for inspection. to the inspection room.
Packaging, Markings and Labelling Check

Check the shipper carton and inner cartons
Check shipper carton, inner carton and retail
markings and labelling. Check the retail
packaging methods.
packagings markings and labelling.
Product Basic Information Verification

Check item labelling, markings, construction
Check the item colors against the PANTONE
and materials according to the given spec.
book and approved sample (if available).
and approved sample (if available).
Dimension and Weight Measuring

Dimension and weight measuring of shipper
Dimension and weight measuring of item.
carton.
Special On-site Testing

Perform applicable special on-site tests according to the inspection checklists, such as the
carton drop test, barcode scan test, GSM check, stitches per inch test, seam strength check,
etc.
Common Inspection (AQL Inspection)

Check the general appearance, cleanness, workmanship, color fading, etc. (compare to the
approved sample if available).
Reporting

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Chapter Two
LEGAL
REQUIREMENTS
AND REGULATIONS
REGARDING
APPAREL
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The following regulations apply to apparel and footwear that is produced in the USA or
imported into the USA.
3.1. Textile fiber products identification act

3.1.1. Generic names
The name of fibers, natural or man-made, must be identified by their generic or ISO
name. The following are acceptable generic names.
I. Natural fibers - generic names
(( Legal requirements and regulations regarding apparel: cotton, flax or linen, hemp, jute,
ramie, sisal (agave), manila hemp (abaco), bamboo
(( Keratin (animal): alpaca, camel hair, cashmere, horse hair, llama, mohair, rabbit hair
(angora rabbit), silk, bombyx (cultivated), tussah (wild), vicuna, wool
II. Manufactured fibers generic names
(( Acrylic (( Melamine (( Raycon, Lyocell

(( Acetate, Triacetate (( Metallic (( Rubber, Lastrile
(( Anidex (( Modacrylic (( Saran
(( Aramid (( Novoloid (( Spandex
(( Azlon (( Nylon (( Sulfar
(( Elestoester (( Nytril (( Vinal
(( Elasterell-P (( Olefin (( Vinyon
(( Fluoropolymer (( PBI
(( Glass (( PLA
(( Lastol (( Polyester

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III. ISO Names accepted by the USA but not listed in the USA textile act
names
(( Alginate (( Modal
(( Carbon (( Polyamide
(( Chlorofiber (( Polyethylene
(( Cupro (( Polyimide
(( Elastane (( Polypropylene
(( Elastodiene (( Vinylal
(( Fluorofiber (( Viscose
(( Metal Fiber
3.2. Trade names

Fiber trade names may be used as long as they appear immediately next to the generic
fiber name in lettering that is equally conspicuous and of the same size.
80% Cotton
20% Lycra Spandex
3.2.1. Order
The label is required to show the percentage of all fibers in the product in order of
predominance by weight.
65% Polyester 90% Wool

35% Cotton 10% Silk
3.2.2. Registered identification number
The name or RN # (registered identification number) of the manufacturer or importer of

record is required on the label.
Manufacturer ABC or RN# 052468

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3.2.3. Country of origin
The country of origin is required to be on the label.
Made In China
3.2.4. Tolerances
a.) No tolerance is required when a product is composed entirely of one fiber (100%).
b.) When two or more fibers are in the product, a tolerance of 3% is allowed. For example,
Label Allowed % of Fiber

65% Polyester 62% to 68% Polyester
35% Cotton 38% to 32% Cotton
3.2.5. Fibers present in amounts less than 5%
a.) Fibers present in amounts less than 5% shall be designated as other fiber.
Actual Fiber Content Required Fiber Labelling

65% Polyester 62% to 68% Polyester
35% Cotton 32% to 38% Cotton
92% Cotton
92% Cotton
4% Nylon
8% Other fibers
4% Rayon
b.) If fibers have a definite functional significance, they may be disclosed without stating the
explanation of the function.
98% Cotton
2% Spandex

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3.2.6. Sectional disclosure
Products consisting of two or more items made of different fibers may be labeled on
only one of the items but all fibers must be identified. They cannot be sold separately.
For example,
Table cloth: 100% Cotton Skirt: 100% Polyester

Napkins: 50% Cotton, Jacket: 60% Polyester,
50% Polyester 40% Linen
3.2.7. Ornamentation and trim
If the ornamentation or trim is EITHER:

a.) Less than 15% of the surface area
or
b.) less than 5% of the fiber weight,
Its content does not have to be disclosed as long as the label says exclusive of
decoration or exclusive of ornamentation.
3.2.8. Products containing linings, fillings and

paddings
Separate and distinct disclosure is required if such linings, interlinings, fillings

or paddings are incorporated in the product for warmth rather than for structural
purposes.
Shell: 65% Polyester, 35% Cotton

Lining: 100% Nylon
Filling: 100% Polyester

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3.3. Wool products labelling act
The Wool Products Labelling Act is a law that requires all products containing any
amount of wool be labelled.
60% Wool 70% Rayon

30% Fur Fiber 27% Acrylic
10% Alpaca 3% Wool
3.4. Tips for writing a textile apparel care label

A care label shall include:
(( Fiber content
(( Country of origin
(( RN # (for USA), CA # (for Canada)
(( Care instructions
(( Size
(( Supplier code
*Note*: Label must be written in English; other languages may also be presented. The label must be
securely attached to the garment. The required information must be clearly legible, conspicuous, and
readily accessible to the customer. A label disclosing country of origin, fiber content, and RN # shall be
attached to the center of the inside neck for most countries.

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Chapter Four
MEASUREMENTS

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4.1. General requirements
(( If the tolerances are not given, use the number equal to the 1/2 grade rule as the
tolerance for a measurements.
(( Always take the measurements with the whole garment laying on a flat surface.
(( Make sure the garment is not stretched in any direction (see picture 1 on the next page).
(( Always take measurements before fitting on a model/dummy.
(( Always take stretched measurements last (e.g. minimum neck stretched) after taking all
the other measurements.
(( Always make sure the measurements tape is closely touching the fabric surface during
measurements, especially for long measurements (see pictures 2-4 on the next page).
(( Always lay the opening (e.g. sleeve opening, leg opening, bottom, turtle-neck opening,
etc.) at a position with the side seams not at the side, but slightly shifted (see pictures
5-7 on the next page).

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Picture 1 Picture 2
No stretching (bigger problem with knitwear)
Picture 3 Picture 4
Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7
Initial position of side seam at Shifting of side seam Take the measurement
sleeve

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4.2. Measurement guide for tops
4.2.1. Measurement tips
Always decide two basic lines before taking measurements: the neckline and armhole
line. When the basic lines are decided, they will be used as the guidelines to take all
related measurements (e.g. neck width, neck drop, shoulder seam length, sleeve length,
center front height, front length from shoulder, center back height and back length from
shoulder).
a) Neckline
(( For a hemmed neck with the same fabric extending from the main body, e.g. no binding/
ribs, the basic line will be along the neck edge (See image 6.2.1.a. below).
Picture 6.2.1.a.
(( For a neck with a collar, binding or ribs, the basic line will be the neck seam line (See
Picture 6.2.1.b. below).
Picture 6.2.1.b.

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b) Armhole line
Armhole line inside Armhole line outside
Always decide two basic points before taking measurements: HPS (high point
shoulder) and LPS (low point shoulder). HPS is the highest point of the neckline, while
LPS is the highest point of armhole line. See images as follows.
HPS LPS
LPS/HPS LPS/HPS

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4.2.2. Minimum neck stretched
(( Description: measure from half width. Stretch the opening while holding the center front
and center back of the neck.
(( Closures (e.g. zippers, buttons, etc.) should be opened.
Left
Right Left
Right Right
4.2.3. Neck width
Description: Measure straight from HPS to HPS
a) Measurement tips:
(( Always place the measurement tape under the garment when measuring the neck width,
especially when there is a collar.
(( Use pins to indicate the HPS for the items with an unclear HPS (e.g. raglan sleeve,
pleated shoulder, quilted items, etc.).

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b) For a hemmed neck with the same fabric extending from the main
body, e.g. no binding/ribs, measure edge to edge.
c) For a neck with a collar, binding or ribs, measure neck seamline to

neck seamline.
d) For a stripped vest, measure from edge to edge.

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4.2.4. Neck drop
Description: Measure straight from the lowest point of the neckline to HPS and parallel
to the center front.
Always use a set square or ruler to ensure the neck drop measurement is taken as a
straight line and parallel to the center front.
Measure from HPS parallel

to the center front and
perpendicular to a straight line
Straight line below neckline and

parallel to bottom line
Center front
4.2.5. Shoulder seam length
Description: measure straight from HPS to LPS.
Example of t-shirt with rib collar Example of jacket with shoulder yoke

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4.2.6. Sleeve length
Description: measure straight from LPS to the sleeve opening.
1st step 2nd step
3rd step
(( For items without an armhole line, e.g. raglan sleeve, measure Q2 straight from the HPS
to the sleeve opening.
Raglan sleeve example

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4.2.7. Height of armhole
Description: measure straight from the LPS to the lowest point of the armhole line.
Do NOT measure along the armhole edge.
Stripes must be parallel
Sleeveless top:
Height of armhole, straight line
Straight measure

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4.2.8. Girth top of sleeve
Description: measure straight across the upper sleeve from the lowest point to the
point perpendicular to the sleeve.
(( Always use a set square to ensure it is measured as a straight line and right angle to the
top fold of the sleeve.
4.2.9. Bottom sleeve width
Description: measure outside the sleeve opening.
Incorrect way
(( For a sleeve with an elastic band, measure it without stretching the elastic band.

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4.2.10. Chest
Description: measure straight across the front from edge to edge at the armhole line. If
the client has specified the measuring position (e.g., 1cm below the armhole line, etc.),
just follow the clients specification.
1cm
Normal Measuring Method Custom Measuring Method
(( For sleeveless style with a rib on the armhole, measure just under the rib.

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4.2.11. Mid armhole across front
Description: measure straight across the front from the middle of the left armhole line
to the middle of the right armhole line.
(( Measure straight from LPS and parallel to the center front and use a pin to mark the
middle point of the armhole line at both the right hand side and left hand side.
Center front line
Step 1 Step 2
(( From the top of the stripes in the step 1 picture, measure from outer edge to outer edge.
4.2.12. Mid armhole across back
Description: measure straight across the back from the middle of the left armhole line
to the middle of the right armhole line.

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4.2.13. 1/2 Waist
Description: measure straight across the front from edge to edge at the narrowest
point of the waist.
(( It may be required by a client to measure at X cm under the armhole line rather than the
narrowest point, in which case the client must clearly specify the amount of X.
Step 1 Step 2
4.2.14. Straight across hem
Description: measure straight across the front from edge to edge outside the bottom
opening.

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4.2.15. Center front height
Description: measure straight at the center front from the lowest point of the neckline
to the bottom.
(( For the curved-bottom style, it is measured straight from the neck base line to the lowest
level of the front panel.

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4.2.16. Front length from shoulder
Description: measure straight from HPS to the bottom and parallel to the center front.
Center front line
(( For the curved-bottom style, measure H3 straight from HPS to the lowest level of the
front panel.
4.2.17. Center back height
Description: measure straight at the center back from the lowest point of the neckline
to the bottom.
(( For the curved-bottom style, measure D3 straight from the neck basic line to the lowest
level of the back panel.

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4.2.18. Back length from shoulder
Description: measure straight from HPS to the bottom and parallel to the center back.
Center back line
4.3. Measurement guide for bottoms

4.3.1. Definition of attached waistband and non-
attached waistband
(( Attached waistband: the waistband is attached to main bodys fabric.
Waistband attached to main bodys fabric

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(( Non-attached waistband: the waistband is always included in the measurements:
Waistband made with main bodys fabric
4.3.2. 1/2 Maximum flat stretched waistband
Description: measure on the half of the garments with maximum stretch.
(( Closures (e.g. zippers, button, snaps) should NOT be opened.
Before stretch After stretch

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4.3.3. 1/2 Flat waist
Description: measure along the edge of the waistband without any stretching.
(( For the style with a front and back waistband that are not parallel, align the front with the
back waistband in parallel before taking measurements.
Back
Front

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4.3.4. 1/2 Hips
Description: mark 3 points separately X cm below the front top edge of the waistband
at the front rise and 2 outside seams. Measure the front panel from edge to edge
across the 3 points marked as above. X is specified by the client.
(( For the style with a front and back waistband that are not parallel, align the front with the
back waistband in parallel before taking measurements.
8 8
18 3/8
4.3.5. 1/2 Thigh
Description: measure straight across the thigh from edge to edge and perpendicular to
the outer seam.

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4.3.6. 1/2 Knee
Measure straight across the knee from edge to edge and parallel to the waistband, at X
cm below the crotch. X is specified by the client.
4.3.7. 1/2 Bottom leg
Description: Measure straight across the leg opening from edge to edge.
Shift of side seams Measure below because of stopper presence

at bottom leg
(( Do NOT measure along the edge (ex: round-bottom leg or curved bottom leg).

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4.3.8. Front rise with waistband
Description: measure straight at the front rise along the seam line from the crotch to
the top of the waistband.
(( Do NOT stretch the rise, especially for elastic items.
4.3.9. Front rise under waistband
Description: measure straight at the front rise along the seam line from the crotch to
the bottom of the waistband.
(( Do NOT stretch the rise, especially for the elastic items

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4.3.10. Side skirt height with waistband
Description: measure along the side seam from the top of the waistband to the bottom.
(( Always make sure the measurement tape is closely touching the fabric surface during
measurements.
Lay the skirt flat on a table Shift the side seam on top
Measure along the side seam Complete the measure
4.3.11. Trousers side height with waistband
Description: measure along the side seam from the top of the waistband to the bottom.

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4.3.12. Inside leg length
Description: measure along the side seam from the crotch to the bottom.
(( Always make sure the measurement tape is closely touching the fabric surface during
measurements.
From crotch, along inside leg seam Complete measure
4.3.13. Front skirt height with waistband
Description: measure straight at the center front from the top of the waistband to the
bottom.
(( For the curved-bottom style, measure a U straight from the top of the waistband to the
lowest level of the front panel.
Waistband

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4.3.14. Front skirt height without waistband
Description: measure straight at the center front from the bottom of the waistband to
the bottom.
(( For the curved-bottom style, it is measured straight from the bottom of the waistband to
the lowest level of the front panel.
4.3.15. Back skirt height with waistband
Description: measure straight at the center back from the top of the waistband to the
bottom.
(( For the curved-bottom style, it is measured straight from the top of the waistband to the
lowest level of the back panel.
4.3.16. Back skirt height without waistband
Description: measure straight at the center back from the bottom of the waistband to
the bottom.
(( For the curved-bottom style, it is measured straight from the bottom of the waistband to
the lowest level of the back panel.

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4.3.17. Back rise with waistband
Description: measure straight at the back rise along the seam line from the crotch to
the top of the waistband.
(( Do NOT stretch the rise, especially for elastic items.
4.3.18. Back rise under waistband
Description: measure straight at the back rise along the seam line from the crotch to
the bottom of the waistband.
(( Do NOT stretch the rise, especially for the elastic items.

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4.3.19. Height of waistband
Description: measure the height of the waistband.
(( For a style with a non-attached waistband, measure it from the outside edge to the
second stitching line.
(( For a style with an attached waistband, measure it from edge to edge of the waistband.

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4.4. Measurement guide for underwear
Specifications of bra:
Ring Top cup
Strap
Slide
Hook tape Eye tape
Back Film bone Wire Separator Bottom cup
Specifications of bottom:
Waist Bow Front
Elastic band Back
Lining gusset (inside) Gusset

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Specifications of garter:
Middle back Middle front
Hook tape Eye tape
Side strap Side strap
4.4.1. Underwear top
Always decide a basic line for the cup before measuring. It is determined by
whether the cup fabric includes a wire or not. In other words, the basic line will be
the seam line.
(( For cup fabric without wire, the basic line is along the seam line at the back:
Basic line

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(( For cup fabric with wire, the basic line is along the seam line at the cup:
Basic line
Always take the measurement along the edge.

Always take the measurement with respect to the shape/form of the underwear.
Always take measurements with large embroidery e.g. fringe, lace.
Always take measurements without picots.
Always avoid the seam line at the side before any measurement (compare to
general measurement tips)
4.4.1.a. Drop height
Description: measure the height of the drop.
(( For drop surrounding the stitching line(s), always measure it from the outermost
stitching line to the outermost stitching line.
(( For drop with binding, measure it to include the binding.

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4.4.1.b. Drop width
Description: measure from edge to edge across the drop.
(( For drop surrounding with stitching line(s), always measure it from the outermost
stitching line to the outermost stitching line.
(( For drop with binding, measure it including the binding.
4.4.1.c. Total strap length
Description: measure the total length of the strap at the inner side with maximum
length.
(( For styles with one strap only.

(( Measure the strap only without the buckles.
Picture: one-strap style Picture: adjust strap to maximum length

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Picture 1st step: measure from the cup side Picture 2nd step: measure along the strap
Picture 3rd step: take reading at the strap WITHOUT buckle
4.4.1.d. Back strap length
Description: measure the back length of the strap on the inner side with maximum
length
(( For styles with a front and back strap.

Picture: two-straps style Picture: adjust back strap to maximum

length

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Picture 1st step: measure from strap Picture 2nd step: measure along the
without buckle strap to the back
4.4.1.e. Front strap length
Description: measure the front length of the strap on the inner side with maximum
length.
(( For styles with a front and back strap.

(( Same requirements of measuring back strap length.
Picture 1st step: measure from cup Picture 2nd step: measure along the
side strap and take reading at the strap
without buckle

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4.4.1.f. Strap width
Description: measure the width of the strap.
(( Always measure the general width of the strap without the picots.
Picture example of typical strap Picture example of strap with

without picots uneven picots
4.4.1.g. Bustier strap height
Description: measure straight from the top of the joining point of the shoulder strap
and front breadth binding/lace to parallel to the center front.

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(( For the round-bottomed style, measure from the top until the lowest level of the bottom.
4.4.1.h. Dart cup height
Description: measure along the dart seam line from the cup basic line.
Dart
Picture example of cup dart in a cup Picture measure along the seam
style with wire
4.4.1.i. Top cup height
Description: measure the cup height of the top part from seam line to edge.
(( Only for styles with a horizontal seam line between the top and bottom cup and a vertical
seam line at the bottom cup.
(( Measure with respect to the form of the cup shape.

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Horizontal line
Vertical line at bottom cup
Picture example of cup with Picture measure with respect to the

horizontal and vertical seam line cup shape
4.4.1.j. Cup height
Description: measure the total cup height along the seam line from the cup
basic line to the joining point of the horizontal and vertical line.
(( For styles with only one vertical line on the middle of the cup.
Vertical line at middle of cup Picture 1st step: measure from the basic line
Picture 2nd step: measure with respect to the Picture 3rd step: take reading with the lace
cup shape

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4.4.1.k. Bottom cup height
Description: measure the cup height of the bottom part.
(( Only for styles with a horizontal seam line between the top and bottom cup and a vertical
seam line at the bottom cup.
(( Measure with respect to the form of the cup shape.
4.4.1.l. Cup low length
Description: measure along the edge of the cup from basic line to basic line.

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(( For styles with irregular embroidery, measure the general shape of the cup.
(( For styles with picots, measure it without the picots.
4.4.1.m. Lower arm length + back
Description: measure along the edge of the top of the lower arm part and back.
(( For styles with soft cups, lay the sample flat to measure it. For styles with fixed cups,
hold the sample to measure it.
(( For the classic back style, measure it from the top of the cup to the first hook.
(( For the chimney back style, measure it from the top of the cup to the strap.
(( For styles with front straps extending to the lower arm part, measure along the strap
outside edge.
Classic back style:
Picture example of classic back style Picture 1st step: measure along the edge of the
lower arm part starting at 10cm of the measuring
tape

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Picture 2nd step: measure along the edge of the Picture 3rd step: take reading at the first hook
back
Chimney back style:
Picture example of chimney back style Picture 1st step: measure along the edge of the
lower arm part starting at 10cm of the measuring
tape
Picture 2nd step: measure along the edge of the

back and take reading at the edge of the strap

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Style with front strap extending to the lower arm part:
Picture example of style with front strap Picture 1st step: measure from the front strap
extending to the lower arm part starting at 10cm of the measuring tape
Picture 2nd step: measure along the edge of the Picture 3rd step: take reading at the edge of the
lower arm part and back strap

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4.4.1.n. Under bust measurement 1st hook
Description: measure the girth of the bra with minimum length.
Picture 1st step: measure along the back. Start Picture 2nd step: measure across the bottom of
from the edge of the hook tape the cup
Picture 3rd step: measure along the back until

the edge of the first eye
4.4.1.o. Top width of separator
Description: measure the top width in a straight line.

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4.4.1.p. Height of separator
Description: measure vertically at the middle of the separator.
4.4.1.q. Bottom width of separator
Description: measure the bottom width in a straight line.
(( Do not measure along the edge.
4.4.2. Underwear - bottom
4.4.2.a. Maximum flat stretched waistband
Description: measure on the half of the garments with maximum stretch.
(( Closures (e.g. zippers, buttons, snaps) should NOT be opened.

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4.4.2.b. Flat waist
Description: measure along the edge of the waistband without any stretching.
(( For styles with a front and back waistband that are not parallel, arrange the front and
back waistband so they are parallel before taking measurements.
4.4.2.c. Hips
Description: measure straight across the front panel from edge to edge.
(( Always align the front with the back waist at the same level before measuring.
(( For briefs, measure across the front part just above the elastic.
(( For briefs with a curved waistband, measure with respect to the curve shape of the
waistband and always smooth out all fullness across the hip area during measurement.
Picture 1st step: align the front and the back Picture 2nd step: fully smooth out the hip area
waist at the same level

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Picture 3rd step: measure just above the elastic Picture 4th step: measure with respect to the
band and with respect to the waistband curve waistband curve shape
shape
Picture 5th step: measure until the edge

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4.4.2.d. Gusset length
Description: measure in a straight line across the gusset at the middle.
(( Lay the gusset gently, naturally, and flat on the table to take the measurement.
(( Do not smooth out the fullness of the gusset.
Picture 1st step: lay the gusset gently and Picture 2nd step: measure straight from seam
naturally, do not smooth it out fully line to seam line
4.4.2.e. Thigh
(( Always align the thigh opening with the same level before measuring.
(( Always measure at the elastic band if present.
(( Always measure the general shape of the opening if an elastic band is not present.
Thigh opening with elastic band
Picture example of thigh opening with Picture 1st step: align the thigh
elastic band opening with the other thigh opening

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Picture 2nd step: measure along the opening Picture 3rd step: measure until edge
Thigh opening with elastic band and embroidery
Picture example of thigh opening with elastic Picture 1st step: align the thigh opening with
band and embroidery the same level
Picture 2nd step: measure along the Picture 3rd step: measure until edge
opening

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Thigh opening without elastic band
Picture example of thigh opening without Picture 1st step: align the thigh opening with
elastic band the other thigh opening
Picture 3rd step: measure the general shape of

the opening
4.4.2.f. Side length - underwear + swimsuit
Description: measure on the side seam including the elastic
(( Always measure including the elastic band and embroidery.

(( Always measure without including the small picots.
(( For styles with no seam line at the side, lay the sample naturally on the table and
measure the side length.

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Style with elastic band:
Picture example of style with elastic Picture measure along the seam line including
band the waistband
Style with embroidery:
Picture example of style with Picture measure along the seam line including
embroidery the embroidery

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Style with lace:
Picture example of style with lace Picture measure along the seam line including
the lace
Style with small picots:
Picture example of style with small Picture measure along the seam line without
picots the small picots

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Style with small picots:
Picture example of style without seam Picture measure at the side edge with the
line whole garment in a natural form
4.4.2.g. Front gusset width
Description: measure the width at the front seam line of the gusset.

(( Always measure without the small picots.
Front seamline
Picture example of style with elastic Picture measure along the front seam line
band including the waistband

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4.4.2.h. Back gusset width
Description: measure the width at the back seam line of the gusset.

(( Always measure without the small picots.
Back seamline
Picture example of style with elastic Picture measure along the back seam line
band including the waistband
4.4.2.i. Total length
Description: Measure from the edge of the waist to the crotch with maximum
length.
(( Always align the front with the back waist at the same level before measuring.
(( Gently lay the sample on the table to get a natural form. Do not smooth out the fullness
of the front fabric.
(( Always measure the maximum length of the sample if a round shape is created at the
crotch.
(( Do not smooth out the fullness of the front fabric.
(( For string, measure at the back.

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Example with round crotch:
Picture 1st step align the front and back Picture 2nd step measure from the top edge
waist at the same level. Do not smooth out all of the waist
fullness at the front
Picture 3rd step measure until the

edge

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Example with flat crotch
Picture 1st step align the front with the back Picture 2nd step measure from the top edge
waist at the same level. Do not smooth out all of the waist until the bottom of the crotch.
fullness at the front.
Example of string style:
Picture 1st step align the front and back Picture 2nd step measure from the top edge
waist at the same level. of the waist until the bottom of the crotch.
4.4.2.j. Seat width
Description: measure from edge to edge at the narrowest point of the seat.
(( For styles with attached seats, measure it at the middle point of the seat if no narrowest
point is found.
(( For styles with special forms, e.g. irregular laces, measure it at the seam line.

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4.4.2.k. Total waist length from first hook
Description: measure along the waistband from the edge of the attachment with hooks
to the first hook.
Picture example Picture 1st step measure from the edge of the
attachment
First hook
Picture 2nd step measure along the Picture 3rd step measure the first
waistband hook

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4.4.2.l. Side strap spacing
Description: measure along the bottom edge between the side straps.
Picture example Measure from the edge of the attachment to the

strap edge
4.4.2.m. Middle front and side strap spacing
Description: measure along the bottom edge between the middle front and side strap.
T8
Picture example Measure along the edge between the strap

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4.4.2.n. Distance between middle back & side
Description: measure along the bottom edge between the middle back strap and side
strap.
Picture example Measure from the edge of the attachment to the

strap edge

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Chapter Five
ON-SITE TESTING

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5.1. Carton drop test 1 carton per style
(( According to InTouch IOP 1.9, there shall not be any damage to an item or breakage to
packaging after the test.
5.2. Barcode scan check 2pc of each barcode
(( Scan all the barcodes on packaging and item and check conformity against the human
readable label and given spec.
5.3. Fitting check 1 per size
(( Place the garment on an appropriate model or dummy to check it for a good fit (pictures
are needed), comparing with the approved samples if available.
5.4. SPI check 2pc of each style
(( Check the stitches per inch (SPI) by means of an appropriate measuring tape. The SPI
shall conform to the given spec. Visually compare the SPI of bulk garments inspected
during the common inspection to make sure they have the same SPI as the garments
SPI-measured above.
5.5. Pull test accessories 2pc of each style
(( Apply a force of 6+/-0.2 kgs for 10 seconds on all the accessories by means of a pull
gauge. The accessories shall remain on securely.
5.6. Crock test for marking & printing 2pc of each

style
(( Rub the marking and printing using medium force for 10 repetitions back and forth with
a piece of white fabric soaked with water. After the test, the marking shall be legible with
no fading or color transference.

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5.7. Dry crock test for fabric 2pc of each style
(( Rub the fabric of each color using normal force for 10 repetitions back and forth with
a piece of white dry fabric (use a color fastness tester to rub if available) No color
transfer greater than 4 on a grey scale.
5.8. Wet crock test for fabric 2pc of each style
(( Rub the fabric of each color using normal force for 10 repetitions back and forth with
a piece of white wet fabric (use a color fastness tester to rub if available) No color
transfer greater than 3-4 on a grey scale (If the client specifies the standard, just follow
the clients standard).
5.9. Fatigue test 2pc of each style
(( Check the fasteners (buttons, snaps, zippers, etc.) as intended for 50 cycles. No loss of
function after test.
5.10. Fabric GSM check 1pc of each style
(( Check the grams per square meter for each fabric used. The GSM shall conform to the
given spec.
5.11. Color shading assessment
(( Compare the bulk garments against the approved sample. Put in a light box (if available).
2pc of each color.
(( Visually check the bulk garments for color shading in batch full sample size inspected.
(( Visually check for any color shading on same garment full sample size inspected.

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5.12. Stretch test for elastic fabric and straps full
sample size inspected
(( Stretch the elastic fabrics and straps to check the elasticity - they shall have proper
elasticity without elastic fibers or stitches breaking.
5.13. Seam strength check full sample size inspected
(( Stretch all the garments along seams and edges/openings (armholes, necklines, etc.)
using normal force to ensure no cracking of stitching or binding. Make sure all trims (e.g.
sequins, beading, etc.) are secure and stretch with the garment without cracking.

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Chapter Six
DEFECT DEFINITIONS,
CLASSIFICATIONS
AND ZONING
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6.1. Defect definitions
6.1.1. Critical defect
Nonconformance that causes a reasonable probability that the product is unsafe

to the user, which could cause injury or harm to, property damage to, or otherwise
endangering the life or safety of, the customer or end user of the product. Critical
defects are:
(( Mold
(( Excessive odor
(( Markings/labelling does not comply with legal requirements
(( Infestation of live insects
(( Presence of needles, razors, or any other non-intended metal objects
(( Incorrect barcode no.
6.1.2. Major defect
Nonconformance that reduces the value or usability of the product. The product would
not be considered unsafe to the user, but does not meet specs and may affect the
salability or result in a customer return.
A major defect is one that meets any one of the following criteria:
(( Obvious, e.g. highly obvious untrimmed threads - see garment zoning

(( Affects the salability or serviceability, e.g. worsens with wear and time
(( Varies significantly from the approved garment specification

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6.1.3. Minor defect
This is a defect which would not normally be identified by the customer or affect
usability or salability of the product, but nevertheless is less than the agreed upon
quality standard. A minor defect is one that meets all of the following criteria:
(( Does not affect the performance of the garment in normal conditions.

(( Not noticeable to the customer upon using.
(( Not noticeable to the wearers of the garment or anyone adjacent to the wearer.
(( Will not worsen with time or wear.
6.2. Defect classifications

6.2.1. General condition
General Condition CRI MAJ MIN

Dampness / mold X
Blood X
Impression marks, polished surfaces, abrasion X
Omitting pressing when specified X
Unsatisfactory pressing (dependent on severity) X X
Distortion of garment caused by improper pressing (dependent on

X
severity)
Imprint from heat of pressing X X
Fabric dropping affecting appearance of garment X

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6.2.2. Fabric
Fabric CRI MAJ MIN

Noticeable difference in type of fabric compared to sample X
Print/design varies in quality from approved sample X
Cuts, holes, tears, thin spots, runs X
Weave/knit varies in quality from approved sample X
Wovens (slubs, snags, broken ends, holes, floats, frosting, nap,

X X
abrasion)
Knits (drop stitches, stretch and recovery, even brushed, knots, fly) X X
Patterns, stripes, checks do not match specs. (dependent on

X X
severity of mismatching)
Incorrect cutting, causing visual irregularity in garment or
X
puckering
Side seams or equivalent show noticeable skew/spirality X
6.2.3. Color
Color CRI MAJ MIN

Variation of shade from sealed sample X X
Shading changes within one garment X
Dye marks X

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6.2.4. Dirt
Dirt CRI MAJ MIN

Soiling, spots, stains, oil, watermarks etc. (dependent on severity
X X
of staining)
6.2.5. Sewing
Sewing CRI MAJ MIN

Uneven stitching X
Fabric caught up in seam X
Seams not securely finished X
Broken stitching, skipped stitching, unraveled seams or hems, or

X
obvious bunched up stitching.
Raw edges or fraying X
Needle damage X X
Uneven neckline, irregular more than 0.5cm (or because of

X
appearance could impact salability).
Left and right sleeves differ in length X X
Left and right pant legs differ in length X
Excessively loose/tight tension resulting in gaping of seam under

X
stress seam grin
Substitute seam type from approved specification X
Not enough seam allowance X
Obvious difference in color of thread, facing, fusing or shoulder

X
pads (to sample) affecting appearance

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Sewing CRI MAJ MIN
2 (or less) successive slipped stitches where seam does not
X
unravel
Puckering X X
Raw edge protruding from seam X
Pleats or tucks off center (>0.5cm) MAJOR / Minor (<0.5cm) X X
Uncut threads
I. Major: More than 1 untrimmed thread end longer than 5cm at
Zone A.
II. Minor: Any untrimmed thread ends at Zone A except Point i., or
X X
any thread ends at Zone B except Point iii. Below.
III. Acceptable: No more than 2 thread ends shorter than 1cm at

the inside of garment.
Side seams more towards front of garment than 1cm (this is

X
MAJOR on a tailored garment)
Over locking runoff caught in seam X X
Incorrect thread color X
Seams, twisting, roping, puckering pleated (Depending on

X X
severity)

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6.2.6. Labelling & packaging
Labelling & Packaging CRI MAJ MIN

Missing country of origin X
Missing fiber content information X
Care label varies in content or quality X X
Size or position of label does not conform to the approved sample X
Missing barcode label, swing ticket, etc. X
Main label not caught completely or securely X
Wording incomplete, incorrect or illegible X
Sewn-in label upside down X
Incorrect brand label used X
Main label sewn with significant bulge in the middle X
Main label crooked showing raw edge X
Wrong barcode applied X
Wrong packaging method X
Carton broken and product inside exposed, and/or damaged X
Wrong packing method X
Incorrect assortment / Incorrect quantity in carton X
Foreign matter (safety issue e.g. blade, rodent, etc.) X
Foreign matter (non-safety issue e.g. hair, insects) X

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6.2.7. Accessories / trim
Accessories / Trim CRI MAJ MIN

Broken, cracked, missing or wrong color X
Not sewn securely X
Substitution of style, size or position X
Distorted, pleated, twisted, broken, rusted button/stud X
Incomplete stitching or uncut buttonhole X
One or more skipped stitches at buttonhole (unravels) X
Buttons, beads or sequins incorrectly placed X
Buttonhole incorrect size for buttons X
Button, bead or sequin thread color does not conform to spec X
Use of substitutes for buttons, studs or beads X
Wrong direction of buttonhole X
Buttonhole fraying around edges causing button to catch on

X
threads, threads need trimming
Hang loops missing X
6.2.8. Interlinings
Interlinings CRI MAJ MIN

Strike through adhesive melts through to face of fabric X
Delamination fusing is not attached properly causing rippling X

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6.2.9. Components
Interlinings CRI MAJ MIN

Top and bottom placket not aligned at C/F edge
X X
(>0.2cm) Major / Minor (<0.2cm)
Not securely attached X
Substitution of style, size or position X X
Distorted, pleated, twisted, broken or missing (depending on

X
severity)
Collar points which vary in length X X
Top placket which is more than 6mm shorter than bottom placket
Insecure shoulder pads X
Ties shorter or longer, not finished properly, etc.
Lining too small, too large, long or short X
6.3. Zoning
(( Zone A means the first surface and zone B means the second surface.

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6.3.1. Jacket zone sketch
Front
B B
A
Back
B B
A
A includes button wrap

B includes under the collar and lapels
B includes inside garment

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6.3.2. Pants zone sketch
Front
B B
Back
B B

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6.3.3. Skirt zone sketch
Front
A Hip height
B Knee height
Back

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6.3.4. Shirt/blouse zone sketch
Front
Waist line
Back
A includes inside of collar and inside top of placket


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6.3.5. T-shirt zone sketch
Front
Waist line
Back

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6.3.6. Sweater zone sketch
Front
Back

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6.4. Examples with photos of garment defects
6.4.1. Sewing defects
Blind-stitch bite too deep Attached sewing threads Broken stitch
Holes of any size Incorrect bartrack placement Mismatched

plaids/stripes
Pleated seam Seam puckering Seam grins
Skipped stitches Stitch count variation Uneven elastic tension at

waistband
Uneven hem width Missed links Missed looping

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Belt loops slanting Exposed white pocket bag High/low hip pocket
placement
High/low hip pocket Garment part twisted

placement Fly catch
twisted
Poor shape of leather Twist on pocket Uneven darts Uneven, high/low hip
patch due to overheating pocket flap
Uneven, high/low Uneven, high/low Collar overlap Garment part

waistband waistband when buttoned up twisted
Twisted on lining Unbalanced collars

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Uneven placket Twisted Uneven length of front
width interlining
6.4.2. Fabric defects
Bar, weft bar Slough-off weft Burst selvedge; Centering marks;

ripped selvedge; pin marks, stenter
torn selvedge marks, tenter
marks
Mispick Mispick Mispick Kinky weft;

looped yarn; weft
kinks
Dye mark; dye Holes Slub

Missing plush Ladder
spot; dye stain
loops

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6.4.3. Treatment defects
Permanent creases Shading on garment Pucker on lining Marking stain on

button eyelet
6.4.4. Other defects
Buttonholes with Incorrect size of Poorly repaired Misplaced

broken stitches buttonhole buttonhole buttonhole
Uncut buttonhole Misaligned button Misplaced button Missing button
Wavy zipper Malfunctioning zipper

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Chapter Seven
APPENDIX

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7.1. General measurement drawings
7.1.1. Skirt
High hip
Waist
Zip opening
Hip
Hem
Side s
eam
Center back length

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Waist
Waistband depth
High hip
Hip
Waist
Dart length
Center back length
Side seam
Vent stitch width
Vent length

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Waist
High hip
Hip
Hem (straight across)
Hem (around edge) if very full

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7.1.2. Pants
High hip
Side seam len

Hip
gth
Waistband width or depth

Waist
Waistband
width or depth
Fly width
Fly length

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Front crotch
(inc. w/b)
Thigh
Inside leg length
CB to welt
Dart length
Back crease line
Front crease line
Back crotch
(inc. w/b)
Hem
Welt length
Welt width or depth

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7.1.3. Jeans
High hip
Hip
Side seam len

gth
Front waist drop

(to be measured before hips)
Waist
Waistband
width or depth
Fly width
Fly length

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Knee 42cm down
Inside leg length
Front crotch
(inc. w/b)
Back crotch
(inc. w/b)
Thigh

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Yoke to pocket
Pocket width
Pocket length
CB to pocket
Side pocket length
Side seam
Inside leg
Front pocket width
Front
Hem pocket
(as flat as possible) length

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7.1.4. Shirt
Sleeve length
Bust Sleeve girth
Underarm
Waist
to waist
Sleeve hem
Hem
Back neck CB collar width
CB stand width
Across back
CB length
Back dart
Side seam length

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Shoulder to bust button
Underarm
Bust dart to waist
Front
Front
dart
placket
Shoulder
Collar
width to
Front neck point Sleeve
placket
length
Cuff width

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7.1.5. Sleeveless top
Front armhole Front neck 1/2
Bust
Underbust seam
Underarm to waist
Waist
Hem
Back neck
Across back Back armhole
Side
CB length
seam
length

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7.1.6. Wrap top
Front neck 1/2

Front armhole
Front bust 1/2

Underarm to waist
Waist total (open)
Hem
Hem total
Back neck
Across back
Back armhole
Across back at underarm
Side
seam
length
CB length

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7.1.7. Jacket
Armhole total
Bust (underarm)
Sleeve girth
Sleeve length
Waist
Side
seam
CF overlap Sleeve hem
length
Hem
Hem total
Back neck
Across back
CB length
Vent
stitching length
Vent length

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Collar width to point
Under collar Shoulder

dart length Lapel width to point
Collar width at CB
Stand width at CB
Sleeve vent length
Sleeve vent width

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Armhole total
Sleeve length
Bust (across top button
Sleeve girth
Side seam length

Waist
CF overlap Sleeve hem
Hem (straight across)

Gap
(measured on back hem)
before measuring hem straight across
Across back Across back
CB length CB length
Back hem Back hem

(side seam to side seam) (back panel to back panel)

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7.1.8. Coat
Bust
Waist
CF overlap
Hip
Hem
*Note*: All other measurements are the same as the jacket

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7.1.9. Dress
Shoulder
Front neck 1/2

Front armhole
Bust
Bust dart Back neck
Across back Back

Waist armhole
Front dart
Hip
Back dart
CB length
Side
seam
Hem
length
Hem

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Shoulder
Front armhole
Front neck 1/2
Bust (at bottom of neck)
Across under bust seam
Waist
Hip
Hem
Hem

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7.1.10. Cami
Front neck width
Front armhole
Bust (at bottom of neck)
Waist
Hem
Back neck width

Back armhole
Side
seam
length
Back length

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7.1.11. Reglan
Front neck
Front armhole
Bust
Neck armhole
(seam to seam)
Waist
Hem
Back neck
Back armhole
Sleeve length
Sleeve girth
Center
back
length
Sleeve hem

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Neck armhole
(seam to seam)
Top view of neck

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7.2. Important inspection notes by garment type
7.2.1. Coat
Important notes for inspection:

All the garments sampled must be hung up on
a rack to inspect for color shading within a lot
and proper shape.
(( Pile Pile direction must be according to the
spec.
(( Tags/logos/medallions The hanging
direction and appearance must match the
approved sample. It cannot be twisted. The
hanging chain needs to be pulled slightly to be
loose.
(( Sealing stitching Must be well sewn and
cannot be open.
(( Pockets Check for holes inside pockets.
(( Wristband Cannot be twisted.
(( Lapel pressing Make sure the way it is
pressed/curved matches the approved sample
(If the sealed sample requires die ironing, then
the mass produced version must be die ironed.
If the sealed sample requires live ironing,
then the mass produced version must be live
ironed).
(( Stitching splicing Visual stitching cannot
have any splices.

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7.2.2. Jacket

and proper shape.
(( The stitching must be even.
(( No puckering (unless it matches the approved
sample)
(( The snap-fastener, buttons and zippers on
garments must be durable.
7.2.3. Womens blazer

and proper shape.
(( Check that the sleeves sit properly and are not
twisted.
(( The shape of the garment must be natural and
look soft.
(( The shape and placement of the bust darts
must be correct (compare against the sealed
sample. Check that in no area the shape is
pointed.
(( The lining at the connection of inner and outer
must be natural and smooth.

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7.2.4. Dress

and proper shape.
(( Needs buffer space between actual zipper
teeth and material at lining.
(( There must be good pull away from the
zipper of the material, so that its not possible
to catch the material in the zipper.
(( If there is a gap (not necessary) at the
waistline around the zipper stop, it must be no
more than 3mm.
(( The bottom hem must be smooth, round, and
without wrinkles.
7.2.5. Top

and proper shape.
(( Armholes and collar these are the most
important areas to check.
(( Shape The shape must be natural and
smooth.

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7.2.6. Pants and jeans

(( Waistline Waistline means everything and if
it is done well the rest of the garment shape
and size should be good. Waistline must be
smooth and round, especially for womens
clothing, as the waistline of womens pants is
not straight.
(( Elasticity If its elastic fabric, must stretch it
to check the elasticity during the inspection.
(( Stitching strength at crotch The stitching
at crotch must be hard pulled during the
inspection. This is VERY important.
(( Fly flap at crotch (where the zipper is) must
be flat, not turned up, check against approved
sample
(( Hips and thighs Pay close attention to the
shape of these areas. The factory may try to
pull at the size here to show its the right width,
which will ruin the shape here and its definitely
not OK.
(( Pockets/Features Look at the placement of
pockets on the left and right and they should
be symmetric, and/or match the approved
samples.
(( Hand-feel of jeans Very important for the
denim (Compare against the Sealed Sample).
(( Features like rips, etc. Must be in the right
place based on the Sealed Sample. Can vary A
LITTLE but generally must match the Sealed
Sample.
Rips
Fly trap

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7.2.7. Shorts

(( Overall must be relaxed and extended and the
elasticity of elastics must conform to that of
the sealed sample.
7.2.8. T-shirt

(( Must visually check if there is any obvious
skewing.

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7.2.9. Knitwear

(( Pay close attention to item net weight.
(( The horizontal streaks must be straight and
the center line must be straight right down the
middle.
(( The inside linking must be straight, neat and
smooth with a good connection.
Inside linking
7.2.10. Mens shirt

(( Pay close attention to item net weight.
(( Make sure the packaging methods conform to
the given spec.
(( Make sure there are not any clips missed.

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7.3. Instructions for woven and knit fabrics
(( There are many ways of making fabrics from textile fibers. The most common and
most complex category comprises fabrics made from interlaced yarns. These are the
traditional methods of manufacturing textiles. The great scope lies in choosing fibers
with particular properties, arranging fibers in the yarn in several ways and organizing in
multiple ways, interlaced yarn within the fabric.
7.3.1. Woven fabric
7.3.1.a. Woven fabric
The most common form of interlacing is WEAVING. Two sets of threads cross and
interweave with one another. The yarns are held in place due to the inter-yarn friction.
The woven structures provide a combination of strength with flexibility. The flexibility at
small strains is achieved by yarn crimp due to freedom of yarn movement, whereas at
high strains the threads take the load together, giving high strength.
Weaving machine - shuttle loom
1. Ends 2. Warp Beam 3. Back Rest 4. Dropper

5. Heald Frame 6. Heald Eye 7. Reed 8. Shuttle
9. Breast Beam 10. Winding Roller 11. Twitch Roller 12. Cloth Roller

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7.3.1.b. Woven fabric
A woven fabric is produced by interlacing two sets of yarns, the warp and the weft,
which are at right angles to each other in the plane of the cloth. The warp is along the
length and the weft along the width of the fabric. Individual warp and weft yarns are
called ends and picks. The interlacement of ends and picks with each other produces a
coherent and stable structure. The repeating unit of interlacement is called the weave.
The structure and properties of a woven fabric are dependent upon the constructional
parameters as thread density, yarn fineness, crimp, weave etc.
1. General elements of woven fabric structure
Cross-section view
Plain view Warp
Weft

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2. Plain woven fabric
3. Right twill woven fabric
4. Left twill woven fabric

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5. Sateen
7.3.2. Knitted fabric
Form of interlacing where the thread in one set interlocks with the loops of neighboring
thread by looping is called KNITTING. The interlooping of yarns results in positive
binding. Knitted fabrics are widely used in apparel, home furnishing and technical
textiles. Lace, crochet and different types of net are other forms of interlaced yarn
structures. Braiding is another way of thread interlacing for fabric formation. Braided
fabric is formed by diagonal interlacing of yarns. Braided structures are mainly used for
industrial composite materials.
7.3.2.a. Woven fabric
(( Use one continuous yarn to form courses or row of loops, across a fabric.
1. Open cylinder knitting machine

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2. Open cylinder knitting product
3. Cylinder and dial machine
4. Cylinder and dial product

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5. Circular hosiery machine
6. Circular hosiery product
1. Plain knit: The basic form of knitting can be produced in flat or in tubular (or
circular) form.

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2. Purl stitch: Made on flat bed knitting machines and circular machines.
3. Rib stitch: Alternate lengthwise row of plain and purl stitches and as such
the face and back of the fabrics are a lookalike.

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7.3.2.b. Warp knitting
(( Use a lot of yarn to loop along the longitudinal direction which is different from weft
knitting in the sense that in it each needle loops its own thread.
1. Comparison of weft and warp
Weft Warp
2. Warp knitting machine
Weft Warp

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3. Warp knitted fabric
Weft Warp
Weft Warp

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About InTouch
Founded in 2008, InTouch Manufacturing Services is an American-owned, third-
party inspection firm headquartered in Shenzhen, China. We specialize in QC product
inspections, factory audits, social compliance services and product sourcing.
With staff based in 15 countries throughout Asia, InTouch helps importers ensure
theyre working with the right suppliers and receiving goods on time which meet or
exceed expectations.

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Packaging, Markings and Labelling Check

Product Basic Information Verification

Dimension and Weight Measuring

Special On-site Testing

Common Inspection (AQL Inspection)

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3.1. Textile fiber products identification act

I. Natural fibers - generic names

II. Manufactured fibers generic names

(( Acrylic (( Melamine (( Raycon, Lyocell

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3.2. Trade names

65% Polyester 90% Wool

3.2.2. Registered identification number

The name or RN # (registered identification number) of the manufacturer or importer of

Manufacturer ABC or RN# 052468

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The country of origin is required to be on the label.

Label Allowed % of Fiber

3.2.5. Fibers present in amounts less than 5%

Actual Fiber Content Required Fiber Labelling

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Table cloth: 100% Cotton Skirt: 100% Polyester

3.2.7. Ornamentation and trim

If the ornamentation or trim is EITHER:

3.2.8. Products containing linings, fillings and

Separate and distinct disclosure is required if such linings, interlinings, fillings

Shell: 65% Polyester, 35% Cotton

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60% Wool 70% Rayon

3.4. Tips for writing a textile apparel care label

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No stretching (bigger problem with knitwear)

Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7

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Armhole line inside Armhole line outside

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4.2.3. Neck width

Description: Measure straight from HPS to HPS

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c) For a neck with a collar, binding or ribs, measure neck seamline to

d) For a stripped vest, measure from edge to edge.

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Measure from HPS parallel

Straight line below neckline and

4.2.5. Shoulder seam length

Description: measure straight from HPS to LPS.

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Description: measure straight from LPS to the sleeve opening.

1st step 2nd step

Raglan sleeve example

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Stripes must be parallel