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mimic
(WS) Row 2 & 4: Purl. I recommend blocking your garment as follows: soak piece for at
least 20 minutes in a wool wash (follow with rinse bath, if needed),
Row 3: P1, M1L, P1, work in established pattern to last 2 sts, P1, gently remove piece from water, use 1-2 dry towels to remove as
M1R, P1. (2 sts increased) much excess water as possible from piece, hang sweater on a
smooth thick hanger (preferably a coated wood or some sort of
Repeat last 4 rows 3 (5) more times. 97 (115) sts plastic material), and allow garment to completely dry while
hanging. This method really allows the sweater to take shape, the
Work even until piece measures 6 (8) from removable marker stitch pattern to elongate and the hem to naturally curve along
placed in previous section (the beginning of sleeve increases), the back side.
ending with a WS row.
(WS) Row 2: BO 3 sts PW, purl to last st, slip last st PW.
Row 3: Slip 2 sts PW, BO 3 sts KW (binding off the two slipped
sts without knitting them, only passing them over as needed),
knit in pattern to last st, slip last st PW.
Row 4: Slip 2 sts PW, BO 3 sts PW, purl to last st, slip last st PW.
back
Repeat instructions as for front knitting to 13 (15) from cast on
edge instead, approximately 126 (146) rows. Follow the same
instructions for sleeve increases and shoulder shaping bias bind off.
You should now have two matching pieces with the exception of
the additional 3 inches in length on the back piece.
side seams
With RS facing and starting at the bottom edge, ease the two
pieces (front & back) together using mattress stitch and doubling
up on the ladders on the longer back piece approximately every
4th stitch/ladder while seaming up to the under arms on each side
seam, finish seaming to sleeve edge at a one-to-one ratio. Tip: I
seamed together the first two columns of knit stitches closest to the edges on
each side.