Sediment Transport and Coastal Processes Definitions

accretion - natural or artificial deposition of sediment in a particular location

barrier island - a deposit of sand, parallel to the shore and raised above sea level
beach nourishment - the restoration of a beach the mechanical placement of sand on the beach
for recreational and/ or shore protection purposes
berm - nearly horizontal portion of a beach with an abrupt face, formed from the deposition of
material by wave action at high tide
berm crest - ridge marking the seaward limit of the berm
biogeneous shoreline - shorelines formed by the deposition of calcareous sediment derived from
offshore coral reefs.
bulkhead - structure (like seawalls and revetments) built to separate the land from the water to
prevent erosion and other damage primarily due to wave action. Bulkheads are typically
smaller structures designed to retain shore material under less severe wave conditions
than seawalls.
cohesive sediment - sediment particles with small diameters (usually less than 0.02 mm) and for
which the attractive forces between particles are larger than gravitational forces. These
particles tend to cohere to one another forming flat plate-like clumps called flocs.
cross shore transport - the displacement of sediment perpendicular to the shore (onshore or
offshore), usually into a berm (onshore) or into an offshore bar (offshore)
deltaic shoreline - shoreline formed by the deposition of sediment at the mouth of large
sediment-laden rivers
emergence shoreline - shoreline formed by sea level lowering or land rising (due to tectonic
change, for example), characterized by a straight shoreline and mild beach profiles
erosion - the removal of sediment from a particular location by the action of wind or water
estuary - semi-enclosed body of water having a free connection with the open ocean where fresh
water from land runoff mixes with sea water
groin - shore perpendicular structure, installed singly or as a field of groins, designed to trap
sand from the littoral drift system or to hold sand in place.
headland - rocky outcropping jutting from a shore; often perpendicular to the shore and usually
with an associated shoal
jetty - a shore perpendicular structure located near an inlet or harbor entrance to reduce infilling
of the inlet or channel and protect the entrance and provide vessel sheltering from waves
longshore bar - offshore ridge or mound of sand, gravel or other loose material running parallel
to the shore which is submerged (at least at high tide) and located a short distance from
the shore.
longshore current - current produced in the surf zone by wave breaking at an angle to the shore;
it runs roughly parallel to the shoreline.
longshore transport (littoral drift) - the displacement of sediment down the shore (parallel to the
shore).
longshore trough - a long, wide, shallow depression on the seafloor running parallel to the shore
non-cohesive sediment - sediment particles with large diameters (usually greater than 0.02 mm)
and for which the attractive forces between particles are less than gravitational forces.
offshore breakwater - a structure, usually shore parallel, composed of rocks and designed to
protect a shore area, harbor, anchorage or basin from waves.
offshore current - any current flowing away from the shore
offshore transport - movement of sediment or water away from the shore
onshore current - any current flowing toward the shore
onshore transport - movement of sediment or water toward the shore
revetments - structure (like seawalls and bulkheads) built to separate the land from the water to
prevent erosion and other damage. Revetments are designed to protect shorelines and
waterways from erosion by currents and small waves.
salt water wedge - intrusion of salt water along the bottom in an estuary; the wedge moves
upstream on high tide and down stream on low tide.
sand spit - low tongue of land or a relatively long, narrow shoal extending from the land.
scarp - elongated and comparatively steep slope separating flat or gently sloping areas on the
seafloor or on a beach
scour - erosion of sediment near a structure due to increased flow velocities, increased
turbulence and/ or secondary flows near the structure.
sea level rise - apparent rise in average sea level of the ocean measured relative to a land mass.
Can be the result of ice cap melting but also may be the result of land submergence.
Current global rate is 11 cm/ 100 years.
seawall - structure (like bulkheads and revetments) built to separate the land from the water to
prevent erosion and other damage primarily due to wave action. Seawalls are typically
large and designed to withstand the full force of storm waves.
shoal - elevation of the sea bottom comprising and material except rock or coral (in which case it
is a reef) and which may endanger surface navigation
submergence shoreline - shoreline formed by sea level rise or land subsidence, characterized by
irregular features and steep beach profiles
swash zone - that region on the beach face delineated at the upper level by the maximum uprush
of the wave and at its lower extremity by the maximum downrush
tidal prism - the quantity of water that moves into and out of a bay during a (astronomical) tidal
cycle. Approximately equal to the bay area times the tide range.
tombolo - the combination of an offshore rock or island which is connected to the beach by a
sand spit.