#thebakefeed

The French Issue

FROM SCRATCH

61
French Recipes
You Can Make
at Home
The Essential
Brioche
(including this
chocolate loaf)

SPRING 2016
$12.99 US
FEATURING
Easy Gteaux
French Cookies & Macarons
DISPLAY UNTIL MAY 30, 2016
The Quest for the Perfect Croissant
FROM SCRATCH
table of contents

9 Products: Copper in the Kitchen

Were crazy about the functionality and style of
27 THE ART OF THE CRUMB
From swoon-worthy sabls to elegant palmiers, we
copper cookware, perfect for French baking bring you our favorite French cookie classics

11 On the Shelf: The French Bakery at Home

New book releases on the art of boulangerie and
35 THE ESSENTIAL BRIOCHE
Techniques for making this marvelous mix between a
ptisserie from the masters
buttery bread and pufy pastry

13 Perfect Pairing: The French Apritif

Two savory pairings for your pre-dinner cocktail from 45 MAKE MINE A MACARON
the experts at Washington, DCs Le Diplomate Beginners recipe to bring these pastel meringue
sandwiches from the pastry case to your own kitchen

17 From the Pantry: Fleur de Sel

Elevate your creations with a sprinkle of this hand- 49 CROISSANT QUEST IN PARIS
harvested, rened sea salt Parisian food writer Clotilde Dusoulier searches for
the best her city has to ofer

21 Bakery Profile: The House that Macarons Built

Explore Ladure, the iconic French salon that
61 A TASTE OF PROVENCE
launched the macaron to international stardom
A traditional Easter celebration enjoyed al fresco
with plenty of ros
3 bake from scratch
 ^
69 EASY FRENCH GATEAUX
Let them eat cake, and up your game with these
99 Bake the Book: Baking with the Seasons
We talk home baking and photography with Sweeter
traditional recipes simplified for the home cook of the Vine author Yossy Arefi

79 FRENCH CONNECTION
Visit these bakeries bringing the best French flavors
107 Origin of a Classic: Tarte Tatin
The Loire Valleys legendary upside-down apple tart
to American soil was originally created by accident

^
85 PATISSERIE AT HOME
You dont have to be a pastry chef to make these five
111 Spotlight On... Battle of the Bakers
Three bakers travel to France to compete as Team
timeless treats USA in the World Bakery Cup

93 BAKING WITH FROMAGE

Recipes honoring the timeless French marriage of
113 Our Obsession: Pain au Chocolat
Whats better than a croissant? A croissant filled with
cheese and bread rich dark chocolate

spring 2016 4
 #thebakefeed
TAG YOUR BAKINg ADVENTURES on instagram FROM SCRATCH

using #thebakefeed. EDITORIAL

Well post our favorites in the next issue. EDITOR - IN - CHIEF BRIAN HART HOFFMAN
DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS BROOKE MICHAEL BELL
CREATIVE DIRECTOR / PHOTOGRAPHY MAC JAMIESON
CREATIVE DIRECTOR / ART DEANNA RIPPY GARDNER
PROJECT EDITOR JENNIFER V. COLE
ASSISTANT EDITOR SOPHIA JONES
RECIPE EDITOR FRAN JENSEN
EDITORIAL COORDINATOR MARY-KATE SHERER
COPY EDITOR AVERY HURT
PHOTO STYLISTS SIDNEY BRAGIEL , MARY BETH JONES
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHERS JOHN OHAGAN, MARCY BLACK SIMPSON
PHOTOGRAPHERS
JIM BATHIE , WILLIAM DICKEY, STEPHANIE WELBOURNE
ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER CAROLINE SMITH
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER STEPHEN DEVRIES
FOOD STYLISTS / RECIPE DEVELOPERS
MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON, MELISSA GRAY, KATHLEEN KANEN,
@ shumi2712 @ yokiolekitchen JANET LAMBERT, VANESSA ROCCHIO, LOREN WOOD
TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANT ANITA SIMPSON SPAIN
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST DELISA MCDANIEL
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST CLARK DENSMORE
ADVERTISING
REGIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTORS NEAL DIPENTINO,
KATIE LOPER HAGAN, PAGE STABLER, SHEILA WARDY
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5 bake from scratch

 from the editor
Im a Francophile. When I
travel to France, I stop at the first boulangerie
I can find for a pain au raisin and a viennoise
au chocolat. Each day after is filled with visits
to ptisseries and boulangeries that line the
streets and anchor the corners of cities and
towns throughout the country. I devour the
renowned confections and baked goods that
have inspired many of the recipes that fill the
pages of our very first French Issue.
After months of daydreaming about stories to
include, we knew we wanted our pastry-loving
friend and local expert Clotilde Dusoulier, of
the blog Chocolate & Zucchini, to take us on a
quest to find the perfect Paris croissant (page
49). And I would be remiss not to mention
that this story was produced the week of the
tragic terrorist attacks on Paris last November.
We dedicate this issue to the memory of those
whose lives were taken and those whose lives
were forever changed that day.
For a taste of France close to
As you bake your way through this issue, home, I love to stop by The Paris
dream of Francethe cases of macarons, the Market in Savannah, Georgia.
woven baskets of freshly baked baguettes, the
palmiers waiting to be enjoyed with a caf
crmeand bring the taste of this fabulous
baking culture to your own kitchen.
Mangez bien! (Eat well!)

Brian Hart Hoffman

Editor-in-Chief

Follow us for
daily baking
inspiration.

Bake from Scratch

@thebakefeed

@thebakefeed

Photo by
Deborah Whitlaw LLewellyn
contributors
Julia Bainbridge
Julia Bainbridge is a food writer who has worked
at Yahoo!, Bon Apptit, and Cond Nast Traveler.
Since then, her work has been published in
Organic Life, Saveur, and Afar, to name a few,
and she hopes she can add a few more to
that list soon. Julia has a lot of feelings, one of
them being loneliness, so she hosts a podcast
called The Lonely Hour, in which she interviews
guests about solitude and aloneness. Its not a
bummer, though, she promises.
Very First French Pastry Bite: A rock hard
pain au chocolat from a Maryland grocery
store, which set the bar very low. Oh, how my
world has opened up since then.
Favorite French Apritif: Pastis, taken in
thimble-sized sips.
Photo by Linda Pugliese
Clotilde Dusoulier
Clotilde Dusoulier is the 30-something
Parisienne behind the popular French food
blog Chocolate & Zucchini (chocolateandzucchini
.com), in which she gets her readers excited
about daily cooking and shares insider tips
on the Paris food scene. She is also the author
of several books, including The French Market
Cookbook, a book of French vegetarian recipes.
Very First French Pastry Bite: My grand-
mother came to lunch on Sundays, and every
week she brought a spectacular French classic
that she got from her neighborhood ptisserie.
I have the most vivid recollection of the Saint-
Honor with the splendid caramelized cream
puffs and waves of whipped cream on top.
Favorite French Apritif: I like Lillet, an old-
fashioned aperitif wine with citrus accents.
7 bake from scratch
Anne E. McBride
Anne E. McBride regularly writes on topics
related to professional and experimental
cooking, including contributions to The Oxford
Companion to Sugar and Sweets. She is the co-author
of three books with famed pastry chef Franois
Payard, including Payard Cookies (featured in
this issue, page 12), and of Les Petits Sweets (out
September 2016) with Kathryn Gordon. She is
finishing a Ph.D. in food studies at New York
University, where she also teaches. Find her
online at annemcbride.net.
Very First French Pastry Bite: I ate French
and Swiss pastries long before I was old enough
to remember them, but an early memory that
sticks is mille feuille. My grandmother loved
thosesimple ones, with a pastry cream or
whipped cream and strawberryso we often
had them around.
Favorite French Apritif: Macvin, a fortified
wine from the Jura.
Kat Kinsman
Kat Kinsman, an enthusiastic and voracious
eater, is editor-at-large at Tasting Table and
author of the upcoming Hi, Anxiety. Previously
she oversaw CNNs Eatocracy where her work
won an EPPY Award for best food website and
was a finalist for the James Beard Foundation
Broadcast Award. She spies the Mayor of New
York at her corner bakery most weekdays.
Dream Carb Day in France: Id be content
stapling myself to David Lebovitzs pant leg
and eating whatever crumbs he dropped as he
made his way around Paris, but I dont know
how happy hed be about that.
Favorite French Apritif: Lillet aaaaaallllll
day. Either color.
FROM SCRATCH
team
Deanna Gardner
Deanna Gardner is Group Creative Director
at Hoffman Media in Birmingham, Alabama,
where her award-winning talent as a
graphic designer is put to good use in the
pages of Bake from Scratch. Deanna feeds her
creative cravings through her work with
graphics, textiles, and paper. She has a
love for all things vintage and swoons over
anything kitsch.
Dream Carb Day in France: A morning
filled with croissants and espresso followed
by a stroll down the Champs-lyses
and a visit to Ladure for my must-have
pistachio macarons. My first trip to France
is scheduled for this summer when I fully
intend to turn this dream into reality.
Favorite French Apritif:
Champagne, sil vous plat.
Mary-Claire Britton
Mary-Claire Britton is a classically trained
chef, food stylist, and writer. She earned
her stripes working the line in restaurants
up and down the East coast before she
landed in publishing with Hoffman
Media. When shes not in the kitchen, she
can be found clowning around town with
her husband (also an acclaimed chef) and
their two amazing little boys.
Very First French Pastry Bite: The first
truly French pastry I remember eating was
a croissant, just out of the oven at an inn
about 25 miles north of Avignon, Provence.
I was 11 years old, and it was life changing.
Favorite French Apritif: Im a total
sucker for Lillet Blanc.
French glossary
An easy reference guide for French terms
commonly used throughout this issue of
Bake From Scratch.
recipe index
BREAD
BOULANGERIE (boo-LAN-zhree) A bakery that Basic Brioche Dough 37
specializes in the art of making bread Brioche Tte 44
Brioche au Chocolat Loaf 44
BRIOCHE (bree-osh) A French bread or pastry whose Brioche au Sucre 42
high egg and butter content give it a rich and Bubble-Top Brioche 44
tender crumb Cheese and Rosemary Brioche 98
Mini Brioche Tte 44
CHOUX (shoo) Light pastry dough used to make
profiteroles, cream puffs, clairs, and other BARS AND COOKIES
delicate French treats Chocolate-Orange Sabls 33
Langues de Chat 34
CLAFOUTIS (klah-foo-TEE) A tart made of fruit, Macarons 47
typically cherries, baked in a sweet batter Palmiers with Vanilla Bean, Pecan, and
Cardamom 33
FINANCIER (fee-NAHN-see-ay) A small French cake Petit Beurre 32
made with browned butter CAKES
GANACHE (ga-NAHSH) A mixture of chocolate and Almond Gteau Breton 74
Beaumes-de-Venise Cake with Apricots 77 Mushroom Tart 14
cream used as a glaze, icing, sauce, or filling Cherry Clafoutis 74
Gteau Basque 73
GTEAU (gat-OH) Cake, often containing layers of Le Fraisier French Strawberry Cake 77
cream or fruit; gteaux (plural) Lemon Verbena Olive Oil Cake 106
Pistachio Pound Cake with Strawberries in Shallot Vinaigrette 64
LANGUES DE CHAT (long-duh-shah) Literally Cat Lavender Sugar 103
Tongue, refers to a flat, sweet, finger-shaped cookie Raspberry Dacquoise 73
MADELEINE (mad-len) Small sponge cakes typically FROSTINGS, GARNISHES,
baked in a shell-shaped mold AND GLAZES
Basic Buttercream 48
MILLE FEUILLE (meel-foy) thin layers of puff pastry Buttercream 74
and fillings like whipped cream, custard, or fruit Candied Meyer Lemon Slices 68
Chocolate-Orange Ganache 48
PALMIER (pahl-mee-yay) Literally Palm Tree, refers Cream Diplomat 77
to a sweet, crisp cookie shaped like a palm leaf Custard Filling 73
Lemon Compote 74
PTE BRISE (pat-BREEZ-ay) Classic French pastry Mint Chocolate Ganache 34
dough used for savory tarts and quiches Raspberry Curd 47
Strawberry Buttercream 32
PTISSERIE (pa-TEES-ay-ree) A shop where French Sugar Syrup 77
pastries and cakes are sold; or a term referring to Whipped Cream 74
French pastries and cakes collectively
PETIT BEURRE (puh-tee burr) Literally Little Butter, RECIPE CORRECTIONS
refers to a sweet butter cookie While we aim for perfection with
each of our recipes, we do make the
occasional mistake. Here are a few
PROFITEROLE (proh-FEET-rohl) A small, hollow pastry corrections from our rst two issues.
filled with cream and covered in chocolate or glaze Fall 2015:
Gougres, p. 13: Add our to
SABL (SAH-blay) Shortbread cookie procedure. When bringing 1 cups
water and next 4 ingredients to
TARTE TATIN (tart-ta-TAHN) An upside down pastry a simmer over medium heat, add
our, stirring with a wooden spoon,
in which the slices of fruit are caramelized in until mixture pulls away from the
pan, about 2 to 3 minutes.
butter and sugar before being placed in the pan
and covered with dough to bake; served flipped Have a recipe question? Were here to help! Email us at bakefromscratch@hofmanmedia.com.
#thebakefeed
The French Issue
on the cover
FROM SCRATCH
Brioche au
Chocolat Loaf
page 44
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
JIM BATHIE
61
French Recipes
You Can Make
at Home
The Essential
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT Brioche
AND FOOD STYLING BY
(including this
chocolate loaf)
MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON
FEATURING
Easy Gteaux
STYLING BY French Cookies & Macarons
MARY BETH JONES
The Quest for the Perfect Croissant
MISCELLANEOUS
Aoli 65
All-Butter Crust 104
Brie en Crote 98
Camembert Straws 98
Celeriac Salad 65
Crme Frache 106
Grilled Lamb with Herb Chimichurri 65
Herb Chimichurri 65
Herbed Goat Cheese Tart 98
Flammekeche 16
French Royale 13
Meringue Nests with Berries 92
Pte Brise 64
Poached Leeks with Eggs and Shallot
Vinaigrette 64
Roasted Shallots and Cipollini Onions 64
Spring Herb Quiche with Roasted Shallots
and Cipollini Onions 64
Star Anise Simple Syrup 68
Star Anise Sparkler 68
Vanilla Madeleines with Cardamom Sugar 92
PASTRY, PIES, AND TARTS
Caramelized Lemon and Browned Butter
Financiers 92
Cherry and Rhubarb Slab Pie 103
Marie-Danielles Apple Tart 105
Quick Blood Orange Mille Feuille with
Chantilly Cream 92
Spelt Quick Puf Pastry 105
Strawberry, Pistachio, and Rose Proteroles 90
Tart Tatin 110
Tarte au Citron with Pine Nut Crust 68
Pte Brise, p. 30: Add eggs to Winter 2016:
procedure. With food processor Blood Orange Loaf Cake, p. 34: Pour
running, add water and eggs in a batter into prepared pan, and bake
slow steady stream until dough just until golden brown and a wooden pick
comes together. inserted in center comes out clean,
Chocolate Buttercream Frosting for about 35 to 40 minutes.
Basic 1-2-3-4 Cake, p. 78: Whisk One-Pound Chocolate Brownies, p. 82:
together sugar and cocoa in a In the third step of the procedure, four
separate medium bowl from the large beaten eggs should be stirred in
beaten butter. Then gradually add with melted chocolate mixture and
sugar mixture to butter, beating vanilla until moistened.
until smooth. Gradually add milk Pear-Almond Cake, p. 99: Use 2 cups
and vanilla, beating until smooth. (280 grams) all-purpose our.
products
COPPER in
the kitchen
Even heating, quick cooling,
and undeniable style make
copper perfect for any kitchen,
but its warm, shiny glow makes us think of
French farmhouses and busy Parisian kitchens.
In a nod to our favorite cookware, here are our
picks to help you whip, measure, and mix your
way through this French-inspired issue of Bake
from Scratch.

BY MARY-KATE SHERER

Ea
1. Mauviel Mpassion Copper Beating Bowl
This bowl is more than just a vessel for ingredients. Chefs
love its unlined copper interior, which stabilizes egg whites
while beating, allowing them to almost triple in volume. Try it
with our delicate Macarons recipe (page 47).
$105-$190; mauvielusa.com

2. Chris Theofel Innovations Copper Balloon Whisk, 12

Eb When copper is used to beat egg whites, a chemical reaction
occurs between the molecules, making it easier to achieve
stif peaks. This makes the copper tines of this beautiful whisk
ideal for many French recipes.
$44.95; surlatable.com

3. Cypress Grove Measuring Cups

Baking is a science, requiring precise measurements. But
who says science cant be stylish? Use these burnished
beauties to measure out nuts and other ingredients, and then
hang them on your wall as a bold accent piece.
$19.95; pier1imports.com
 Ec

4. Coppermill Kitchen
Whether you prefer true heirlooms, refurbished antiques,
or vintage-inspired pieces, Coppermill Kitchen has one-of-a-kind
tools for any baker. Their collection is filled with pieces such as these
Coppermill Kitchen Tartlet Moulds (4a). We instantly fell in love with
the mid-19th century round gratin pie pan (4b), handy for baking a
Tarte Tatin (page 110), and mid-19th century trottier bundt mould
(4c), perfect for baking up miniature versions of beloved confections.
Prices vary; coppermillkitchen.com

5. KitchenAid Metallic Series 5-Qt. Stand Mixer, Satin Copper

Clad in real copper over die-cast zinc and aluminum, this mixer
doubles as a stylish counter accessory. But dont let the pretty face
fool you; ten speed settings, a durable stainless steel bowl, and
a power hub for optional attachments make this beauty a
kitchen workhorse.
$649.99; kitchenaid.com G
6. Timber & Ore Rolling Pin
Rolling out dough evenly can be harder than it looks, but the correct
rolling pin can make the task smooth sailing. This heavy, smooth pin
makes for level rolling and is perfect for rolling out our Petit Beurre
dough (page 32).
$58; anthropologie.com b

spring 2016 10
on the shelf
the
FRENCH
BAKERY
at home
Say bonjour to French baking with
these new releases, and explore
the true essence of la boulangerie
and pAtisserie without ever
leaving your kitchen
The French Baker
By Jean Michel Raynaud
French-born master ptissier Jean Michel Raynaud believes that
creativity and science are of equal importance in baking. In his debut
book, The French Baker (Murdoch Books), Raynauds goal is to give
home bakers the fundamentals needed to make delicious goods
from their own kitchens. His strength lies in keeping it simple, and
Raynaud provides concise explanations of basic baking ingredients
and tools throughout the book.
Cant Wait To Make: Pain de Campagne, rustic rye bread of the
French countryside
Pierre Herme Macaron:
The Ultimate Recipes from
the Master Patissier
By Pierre Herm
Get lost in Pierre Herm Macaron: The Ultimate Recipes from the Master
Ptissier (Stewart, Tabori & Chang), a definitive guide to the
macaron from the genius ptissier who transformed this beloved
pastry with his signature flavor combinations, like strawberry and
wasabi cream, or hazelnut and asparagus. The book is packed with
breathtaking photography and more than 60 recipes ranging from
Pierres bestselling macarons to his newest creations.
Cant Wait To Make: Macaron au Citron Caviar, gele-filled
yuzu lemon macarons with a finger-lime packed center
Payard Cookies
By Franois Payard with Anne E. McBride
For award-winning fourth-generation French pastry chef Franois Payard,
baking is more than a profession, it is a tradition. In Payard Cookies (Houghton
Mifflin Harcourt), Payard takes an introspective look at one of the most
timeless desserts with 100 accessible recipes.
Cant Wait To Make: Rosaces au Chocolat, chocolate dough
piped into an exquisite rosette shape
Modern Eclairs: and Other Sweet
and Savory Puffs
By Jenny McCoy
Modern clairs: and Other Sweet and Savory Puffs (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt)
is packed with innovative recipes all made from the same pte choux.
Jenny McCoy has been reinventing and improving traditional dessert
recipes throughout her career, and her contemporary approach prepares
readers to customize puff pastries to their own liking.
Cant Wait To Make: Lavender-White Chocolate Gteaux Saint-
Honor, honors Frances patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs
Tarts
By Frdric Anton and Christelle Brua with contribution by Chihiro Masui
With stunning photography, Tarts (Rizzoli New York; out April 2016)
provides succinct instructions for mastering this tried-and-true
French comfort food from two of Frances most critically acclaimed
chefs, Frdric Anton and Christelle Brua.
Cant Wait To Make: Caramelized Rhubarb and Chicory Tart,
gorgeous with glossy strips of rhubarb layered on top b
perfect pairing

French Apritif
THE

We love the ritual of the aperitif:

a small pre-meal drink with an
appetite-inducing bite
We looked to the dream team at Washington, DCs
Le Diplomate for two pairings that will have you
instantly channeling the flavors of France.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES

Pairing #1
MUSHROOM TART
& FRENCH ROYALE

FRENCH ROYALE
Makes 1 serving

1 ounce Byrrh
ounce Gifard Vanille de
Madagascar
Bugey Cerdon (or another sparkling
ros), to ll
Garnish: lemon zest

1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice;

add Byrrh and Gifard Vanille de
Madagascar. Shake until very
cold, about 1 minute; strain into a
Champagne ute. Slowly top with
Bugey Cerdon. Garnish with lemon
zest, if desired.
MUSHROOM TART
Makes 1 (8-inch) tart
Recipe adapted from Le Diplomate,
Washington, DC
With layers of earthy mushrooms atop puf
pastry, this tart is the ultimate cocktail snack.
1 (14-ounce) package puf pastry*
1 large egg, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons butter
3 cups sliced cremini mushrooms
2 tablespoons minced shallot
1 teaspoons fresh thyme, divided
teaspoon salt
teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup grated Gruyre cheese
cup beech mushrooms, sauted
Grated black trule or trule oil
1. Preheat oven to 350. Line a baking sheet
with parchment paper.
2. To prepare pastry: On a lightly floured
surface, unfold pastry sheet. Cut an 8-inch
circle from pastry sheet. Place cut dough circle
on prepared pan. Using a fork, prick dough
every inch to dock. Brush dough with beaten
egg, and refrigerate until ready to use.
3. To prepare mushroom duxelle: In a large
saucepan, melt butter over medium-high
heat. Add cremini mushrooms, and cook until
slightly wilted, 5 to 7 minutes. Reduce heat
to low. Add shallot, teaspoon thyme, salt,
and pepper, and cook until moisture from the
mushrooms has cooked out, 15 to 20 minutes.
Set pan aside to let cool for 5 to 10 minutes.
Place cooled mushroom mixture in the work
bowl of a food processor. Cover and pulse until
smooth. Coat pastry dough with a layer of the
mushroom duxelle, leaving a -inch border.
Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes.
4. To finish: Immediately top baked pastry with
Gruyre, sauted beech mushrooms, remaining
1 teaspoon thyme, and black trule or trule
oil. (You can also nish with high-quality olive
oil and nishing salt to taste.) Slice into wedges
and serve.
*We used Dufour Pastry Kitchens Classic Puf Pastry.
spring 2016 14
Pairing #2
FLAMMEKECHE & ALSATIAN
BLANC DE BLANCS CREMANT
FLAMMEKECHE
Makes 4 servings
Recipe adapted from Le Diplomate,
Washington, DC
This bacon-topped flammekeche is baked on a
pizza stone in the oven.
1 (16-ounce) ball deli pizza dough
1 cup uncooked bacon, sliced into lardons
(-inch pieces)
1 cup fromage blanc
1 cup crme frache
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
teaspoon salt
teaspoon ground black pepper
8 teaspoons olive oil, divided (if grilling)
2 cups thinly sliced yellow onion
Garnish: spring onions, sea salt, finishing oil
1. Let pizza dough come to room temperature
before baking, about 1 hour.
2. Fill a medium saucepan halfway with water.
Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add
sliced bacon, and cook for 2 minutes. Strain
water, and place bacon on a plate lined with
paper towels to let drain. (Bacon can also be
sauted for 1 to 2 minutes, or until crispy.)
3. In a medium bowl, combine fromage blanc,
crme frache, egg yolk, nutmeg, salt, and
pepper, stirring until mixture is smooth. Set
aside.
4. Place pizza stone in center of oven, and
preheat oven to 450. Allow 30 minutes for
pizza stone to heat before baking.
5. On a lightly floured surface, cut pizza dough
into quarters, and roll each into a 7x5-inch
rectangle about inch thick.
6. Slide two pieces of dough onto pizza stone,
and bake for 3 minutes. Repeat with remaining
dough.
7. Immediately layer cheese mixture to -inch
thickness over each piece of partially baked
dough. (Any remaining cheese mixture may
be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
Sprinkle yellow onion and bacon over each.
8. Bake, two at a time, until cheese mixture
starts to bubble and bacon and onion get more
color, 2 to 3 minutes more.
9. Garnish with spring onions, sea salt, and
finishing oil. Serve with wine pairing.
Suggested Pairing: Domaine Pfister, Cremant
DAlsace Blanc de Blancs b
spring 2016 16
from the pantry
For that extra flourish, nothing ups your baking game like
a delicate sprinkling of this prized sea salt
BY JULIA BAINBRIDGE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES

Salt was one of the first things traded by mankind. Towns have been built on it. Wars have been waged over
it. As anthropologist Margaret Visser pointed out in her 1986 book Much Depends on Dinner, The word salary
dates from the Roman distribution of salt as a part of their soldiers pay; an inadequate person, we still say,
is not worth their salt. Thats how fundamental this crystalline mineral is to our very beingand to our
pleasure. (And what is being without pleasure?)

At the top of the salt ladder comes fleur de sel, which literally translates as flower of salt. It is a hand-
harvested, refined sea salt prized for its textural and mineral complexity. The well-known French Maldon
is closecrunchy, salty without being bitterbut no cigar. Flake salt is low in moisture compared to fleur
de sel, meaning the formers flavor dissolves quickly on the tongue. Another step down the ladder comes
unrefined, gray sea salt, which has not been washed of the clay or other sediments that the ocean carries
with it. Theres coarse kosher salt, which most people like to use when cooking for its
large crystals, which are easier for fingers to pick up and scatter evenly. Its also never
iodized, keeping it free of the harsh flavor that some claim they can taste in iodized
salts. And, finally, theres dense, granulated table salt,
the majority of which has been treated with
additives to prevent the crystals from
sticking to one another. But fleur de
sel should really be called la reine
de sel, or the queen of salt, as
nothing else comes close.
Fleur de sel is tended to like any crop. The most classic versions are produced along the saltier Atlantic
coast of west-central France, in regions such as Gurande, Camargue, and le de R, by channeling water
from the sea through winding waterways and into shallow marshes, where it sits in the sun, evaporating,
until crystals form along each pools surface. If the air is too moist, then those crystals will not form. If its
too hot, then the water will evaporate quickly, and the paludiersyes, those who harvest this specific sea
salt have their own professional denominationwill have quick work cut out for them. Rain is also a real
setback. In other words, a good fleur de sel harvest depends as much on the vagaries of the season as do
fields of spring lettuces. Traditionally, only women were paludiers: The careful raking of salt crust without
disturbing it significantly could only be entrusted to the fairer sex. While men also harvest in France today,
as Mark Bitterman wrote in his book Salted, many modern-day paludiers [acknowledge] that women can be
faster and more precise than men in the harvest of fleur de sel. All of it must be done during a four-month
window of time between June and September, when the weather is warm and the seas are tame.

The final product is too expensive to be used as much else than a finishing salt. Even in tiny pinches, its a
real game changer sprinkled on top of pasta, salad, a simple steak, or even a plain slice of bread with butter.
Bakers and candy makers love the savory crunch it brings to caramels, peanut brittle, and chocolate chip
cookies. Try it on a scoop of dark chocolate ice cream or atop a rich slice of pie.

Some will argue that only the French stuff is real fleur de sel, given the countrys traditions and standards
of production. The label fleur de sel, though, is really meant to tell the buyer how the salt was made, and
the simplest way to describe that is as follows: Fleurs de sel are the salt crystals raked from the surface of a
shallow collection of solar-evaporated sea water. Given that description, there are plenty of great varieties
to be found around the world, from Guatemala to the Philippines, produced in outdoor marsh ponds and
indoor tubs. Ben Jacobsen of Portland, Oregons Jacobsen Salt Company hopes to put North Americas first
fleur de sel on the market in the next two years.

But no matter where its made, if it carries the label fleur de sel, its definitely worth its salt.

b
your buye r s g u i d e f o r
FLEUR DE SEL
The good thing about eur de sel? If those three words are on the label, then its been made the way it should
be. In other words, the snowake-like crystals have been gently raked from the tops of solar-evaporated
seawater ponds. Fleur de sel is expensive. But remember, this is a nishing saltits not meant to be layered
on throughout the cooking processand a little goes a long way.

Le Saunier de Camargue Fleur
de Sel de Camargue
Camargue, France
The Camargue is western Europes
largest river delta, making its
marshy land ripe for salt harvesting.
saltworks.us
$12.95 for 4.4 ounces
Hand-harvested sea salt from
le de R
le de R, France
Fleur de sel has been gathered on
this island of of Frances Atlantic
coast since the seventh century.
williams-sonoma.com
$14.95 for 8.8 ounces
El Salvador Fleur de Sel
El Salvador
The mouthfeel of this eur de sel
is, says its carrier, reminiscent of
the mangrove swamps near where
it is harvested.
themeadow.com
$13 for 6.4 ounces

Bali Reef Fleur de Sel Sea Salt Mark Bitterman Fleur de Sel Millnaire Fleur de Sel de
Bali, Indonesia Guatemala Gurande
This eur de sel is drier than most, Salt expert Mark Bitterman Gurande, France
but its crystals are slightly larger, produces this eur de sel in salt Gurande is Paris-based baker
providing a hefty crunch. pans that supplied the Mayan David Lebovitzs favorite eur de
themeadow.com Empire at the height of its power. sel-producing region.
$6 for 1.5 ounces surlatable.com worldmarket.com
$14 for 7.6 ounces $6.99 for 4.4 ounces b

spring 2016 20
bakery prole

Photos courtesy Ladure Paris

 House
Macarons
THE
THAT

BUILT

Over the course of more than a century, one sweet bite

has become synonymous with LadurEe and propelled
the French salon to the top of the pastry world
BY ANNE E. MCBRIDE

Long before its trademark almond green and gold
colors began to grace the chicest streets from Tokyo
to Florence, Ladure was a site of pilgrimage for
gourmands visiting Paris. Few presents promise to
please food-loving friends more than one of its ornate
brocade-like pastel boxes brought back across the
Atlantic filled with delicate macarons.
Arguably the worlds most famous pastryy
house, Ladure is a family business several
times over, from its eponymous founder
to the creator of its signature treat to the
family that launched it into a global brand. In 1862,
Louis Ernest Ladure opened a small bakery on rue
Royale in Paris, near the Champs-Elyses and Tuileries
Gardens on the Right Bank. After a fire destroyed the
original bakery in 1871, he expanded it into a pastry
shop decorated by acclaimed French lithographer Jules
Chret, widely known for his posters featuring
v
vibrant figuresoften free-spirited women
at their center and dynamic hand lettering.
L
Louis daughter-in-law devised the tea salon
concept that further transformed Ladure
at the turn of the twentieth century.
23 bake from scratch
Ladure embodies the art de vivre, and is more than just
a restaurant or a macaron boutique, explains Elisabeth
Holder Raberin, co-president of Ladure US and sister of
Ladure chairman, David Holder. Our first tea salon was
the first one in Paris and was the place where well-heeled
ladies could meet in public with friends and lovers alike.
During that time, proper ladies could not be seen [in cafs].
Ladure was an establishment that broke that barrier.
People came to be discreet yet social, but came back
because the pastries were irresistible.

Pierre Desfontaines, Louis Ernests second cousin, decided

in the 1930s to pipe ganache on a macaron cookie, a
centuries-old almond cookie popular throughout France,
and top it with another, creating what is now known as
the Parisian macaron: two almond shellscrunchy on the
outside, moist on the insidethat sandwich a ganache,
buttercream, or fruity filling.

Ladures international reputation has been built largely

on the strength of its macarons. Vanilla, coffee, chocolate,
salted caramel, orange blossom, rose, and pistachio are the
brands cult flavors, says Holder Raberin, who favors rose.
Seasonal variations join them in the jewel-like boutiques.
She is quick to point out that many of Ladures locations
also offer full menus, in the tradition of the original
Parisian tea salon.

Francis and David Holder decided in 1993 to purchase

the rue Royale salon where the Holder family gathered
for lunch every Saturday. I grew up going to Ladure
with my family, says Holder Raberin. It has for us and
many people an emotional connection
a memory, a scent, a must-have flavor,
a moment, a dream to visit Paris. Its
more than just a macaron, it is
the Madeleine from Proust.

spring 2016 24
laduree 1871
After a fire destroys the small bakery, Ladure is rebuilt
timeline into a pastry shop decorated by famed painter and poster
artist Jules Cheret.
1862 1930s
Louis Ernest Ladure opens
a bakery, Ladure, at 16, rue Pierre Desfontaines, second cousin of Louis, sandwichees a
Royale in Paris. ganache filling in between two macarons and creates what has
become the maisons most recognizable sweet.

1980s
American journalists,
such as Mimi Sheraton,
1900s start praising macarons
Jeanne Souchard, who married Louis as the perfect sweet
Ernests son, comes up with the idea of Parisian nosh.
combining two Parisian staples, the pastry
shop and the caf, turning Ladure into one
of the first Parisian tea salons.

The Holder family opened its first bakery in 1889. Today, the Holder Group
helms multiple bread and pastry businesses, including the multinational
bakery giant Paul. It has expanded Ladures brand into several sectors, from
Ladure Beaut and its collections for home, bath, and body to Les Marquis
de Ladure, which focuses exclusively on chocolate productschocolate
macarons, breads and pastries made with chocolate doughs and filled with
chocolate, the richest of hot chocolates, and of course bars and bonbons.
Ladure has nearly 100 locations worldwide, in cities like Geneva, Dubai,
Tokyo, Sao Paulo, Istanbul, and London. Washington, DC, and Los Angeles
will soon join New York and Miami in the US.

A visit to the original rue Royale location or one of its City of Light sisters
remains a must-do on many a food tourists itinerary, howeveras it
should. Towers of macarons beckon from the window; once inside, it
becomes impossible to choose between religieuses, mille feuilles, babas au
rhum, or the many pastries based on saucer-sized macarons. Sipping on a
cup of fragrant tea and gently pressing a fork into the softness of an clair,
its easy to believe that not a century has passed. b

25 bake from scratch

 2012
1997 Les Marquis de Ladure,
A second Ladure a brand focused strictly
location in Paris, a 2011 on chocolate products
products,
tea salon, opens on Ladure makes its launches.
the Champs-lyses. US dbut, opening
on Madison Avenue in
New York City.

1993
The Holder Group,
helmed by Francis 2005
and David Holder, The first international Ladure
purchases Ladure. opens in London, leading the way
for more than 100 locations around
the world, from Tokyo and Dubai to
Casablanca and Sao Paulo.

spring 2016 26
 the ART
of t h e

CRUMB
Elegant, class ic, a
these Frenc
nd sublime
h
wi ll t r a n s f o r m y cooki es
our
afternoon snack
break

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES

Chocolate-Orange Sabls
page 33
Langues de Chat
page 34

spring 2016 30
Petit Beurre with Strawberry Buttercream

Strawberry Buttercream
Makes about 2 cups
cup (180 grams)
unsalted butter
3 cups (405 grams)
confectioners sugar
teaspoon (1 gram) kosher
salt
cup fresh strawberries,
minced
1. In a medium bowl, beat
butter with a mixer at medium
speed until creamy. Gradually
add confectioners sugar and
salt, beating well after each
addition. Add strawberries,
and beat until incorporated.
PETIT BEURRE
Makes about 36 cookies or 18 sandwich cookies
These simple cookies are rich and only slightly
sweet. They are delightful on their own, straight
from the oven, but a schmear of buttercream,
ganache, or Nutella takes them to the next level.
cup plus 2 tablespoons (100 grams)
sugar
cup (113 grams) unsalted butter
cup water
2 cups (295 grams) all-purpose flour
teaspoon (2 grams) baking powder
Strawberry Buttercream (recipe at left)
1. In a small saucepan, bring sugar, butter,
and cup water to a boil over medium heat.
Reduce heat to low, and cook just until butter
is melted. Remove from heat, and let cool for
20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. In a medium bowl, stir together flour and
baking powder. Add butter mixture, and stir
with a spoon until combined. Knead by hand
until smooth. Shape dough into a disk, and
wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least
3 hours.
3. Preheat oven to 350. Line a baking sheet
with parchment paper.
4. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough
to -inch thickness. Using a 2-inch
square cutter,* cut dough, rerolling scraps as
necessary. Place cookies about inch apart
on prepared pan.
5. Bake until light golden brown, 10 to 12
minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking.
Let cool on pan for 10 minutes. Eat plain,
or make sandwich cookies with Strawberry
Buttercream.
* We used the
Petit Beurre Set by
Mason Cash & Co.,
masoncash.co.uk
PALMIERS WITH VANILLA BEAN,
PECAN, AND CARDAMOM
Makes about 36
Palmiers might just be the perfect cookie:
crisp, buttery layers of puf pastry encased
in caramelized sugar. Its hard to improve on
something so classically perfect, but we think our
version with cardamom, pecans, and vanilla bean
comes pretty close.
cup pecan halves
cup (114 grams) sugar
teaspoon (3 grams) salt
teaspoon (2 grams) cardamom
vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds
scraped and reserved
(17.3-ounce) package frozen puf pastry,
thawed
1. In the work bowl of a food processor,
combine pecans, sugar, salt, cardamom, and
vanilla bean seeds. Process until mixture is
uniformly incorporated and is the texture of
fine sand.
2. Pour about half of sugar mixture onto
work surface. Place puf pastry on top, and
sprinkle with additional sugar mixture. Begin
rolling pastry, working quickly, incorporating
more sugar (as you would when ouring your
board while rolling piecrust or cookies). Roll
up dough, jelly-roll style, beginning with each
long end and meeting in the middle. Place
rolled dough in the freezer until rm, 10 to 15
minutes.
3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper,
and spritz with water.
4. Cut dough log into -inch slices, and place
palmiers about 2 inches apart on prepared
pan,* Freeze sliced cookies for 1 hour.
5. Preheat oven to 425. Bake palmiers for 8
to 10 minutes, turning with a spatula halfway
through baking. Let cool completely on a
wire rack.
Pro Tip: You will need
to work in batches.
It is OK to slice the
entire log at once
and place slices on
a parchment paper-
lined sheet pan in the
freezer. Bake straight
from the freezer about
12 at a time.
CHOCOLATE-ORANGE SABLS
Makes about 72
Bursting with complexity and avor, these sabls
are easier to put together than you might think.
Orange Dough:
cup (169 grams) unsalted butter, softened
1 orange, zested
1 cup (114 grams) confectioners sugar
1 large egg
1 tablespoon fresh orange juice
1 cups (229 grams) all-purpose our
1 cups (170 grams) almond our
teaspoon (4 grams) salt
1 cup roasted salted pistachios, chopped
Chocolate Dough:
1 cups (229 grams) all-purpose our
teaspoon (4 grams) salt
cup (42 grams) cocoa powder
1 cup (226 grams) unsalted butter, softened
1 cup (114 grams) confectioners sugar
1 tablespoon fresh orange juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup roasted salted pistachios, chopped
1. For orange dough: In the bowl of a stand
mixer tted with the paddle attachment, beat
butter, zest, and confectioners sugar until
ufy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add egg and orange
juice, beating to combine. In a medium bowl,
combine all-purpose our, almond our, salt,
and pistachios. Gradually add our mixture to
butter mixture, beating just until combined.
2. Line an 8x8-inch baking pan with plastic
wrap. Press dough into prepared pan, and
refrigerate until rm, 30 minutes to 1 hour.
3. For chocolate dough: In a large bowl, sift
together our, salt, and cocoa. In the bowl of a
stand mixer tted with the paddle attachment,
beat butter, confectioners sugar, orange
juice, and vanilla until ufy, 3 to 4 minutes.
Gradually add our mixture to butter mixture,
beating just until combined. Add pistachios.
4. Spread chocolate dough on top of orange
dough, smoothing as much as possible. Cover
layered dough and refrigerate until rm, at least
2 hours.
5. Preheat oven to 350. Line baking sheets
with parchment paper.
6. Remove dough from refrigerator, and cut
into x 2-inch slices. Place on prepared pans at
least inch apart.
7. Bake until rm and just beginning to brown
at the edges, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool
completely on a wire rack.
LANGUES DE CHAT
Makes about 60

These piped cookies are delicious on their own. Dip

them in Mint Chocolate Ganache, add a sprinkle
of raw sugar, and we dare you to eat just one.

cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened

cup (136 grams) sugar
vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds
scraped and reserved
1 cup (135 grams) all-purpose flour
teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
3 large egg whites, room temperature
Mint Chocolate Ganache (recipe follows)
Turbinado sugar

1. Preheat oven to 400. Line a baking sheet

with parchment paper or a Silpat nonstick
baking mat.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment, beat butter, sugar, and
vanilla bean seeds until flufy, 3 to 5 minutes.
3. In a medium bowl, sift together our and salt
three times. Set aside.
4. With mixer running on medium-low speed,
add egg whites to butter mixture, one at a time,
stopping occasionally to scrape down sides of
bowl. Reduce mixer speed to low, and gradually
add our mixture to butter mixture, stopping
occasionally to scrape down sides of bowl.
5. Spoon batter into a large piping bag tted
with a medium round tip. Pipe batter onto
prepared pans in straight lines about 3 inches
long and inch wide.
6. Bake until edges are golden brown, 10 to 12
minutes. Let cool completely. Once cool, dip
into Mint Chocolate Ganache, and sprinkle
with turbinado sugar, if desired.

MINT CHOCOLATE GANACHE

Makes about 1 cup

cup heavy whipping cream

teaspoon peppermint extract
1 cup (227 grams) good-quality chocolate,
chopped

1. In a small saucepan, bring cream and

peppermint extract to a simmer over medium-
high heat. Remove from heat, and pour over
chocolate. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes;
stir until chocolate is melted and mixture is
smooth. b

spring 2016 34
 he esential...

brioche
 Brioche Tte
page 44

With its golden exterior and lightly sweet, feathery inside, a French brioche
celebrates the beautiful marriage of baking bread with butter.
It's just as swoon-worthy as a croissant, but is far easierand fasterto make.
Use this primer to create pillowy loaves of your own.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
 Basic
Brioche
Dough
Makes 12 Mini Brioche Tte, 1 large Brioche Tte, 1 Bubble-Top Brioche Loaf,
or 1 Brioche au Chocolat Loaf

At its heart, brioche is the gorgeous love child of a pastry chef and
a bread baker. Think of it as part bread-part cake that combines the
backbone of a dessert mavens repertoire (milk, eggs, sugar, and butter)
with the rich yeast of the boulangerie.

cup warm milk (80 to 100)

3 tablespoons (54 grams) sugar
1 tablespoon (12 grams) active dry yeast
3 cups (400 grams) all-purpose flour, divided
5 large eggs, room temperature
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,

combine milk, sugar, and yeast. Let stand for 10 minutes. Add 1
cups (200 grams) flour and eggs, and beat at medium-low speed
until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove paddle, and cover; let stand
for 30 to 45 minutes. At the end of this initial fermentation process,
there should be small bubbles forming around the edges of the
mixture.
2. Replace paddle attachment with the dough hook. Add remaining
1 cups (200 grams) flour and salt. Knead at medium speed until dough
pulls away from sides of the bowl and is smooth and elastic, 8 to 10
minutes.
3. With mixer running at medium speed, add butter, 1 tablespoon at
a time, letting each piece incorporate before adding the next. Spray
a large bowl with baking spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease
top. Cover and let stand in a warm, draft-free place (75) until
doubled in size, 1 hour and 30 minutes to 2 hours and 30 minutes.
4. On a lightly floured surface, turn out dough and fold a few times
to knock out a bit of air. Return dough to greased bowl; cover and
refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight (up to 16 hours). Now dough
is ready to use in any of the following recipes.
 Brioche Tte
page 44

PRO TIP:
To get the right shape, youll
need a specific brioche tte
pan, a fluted loaf pan thats
easily found at shops such as
Food52, Sur La Table, Williams-
Sonoma, and World Market.

spring 2016 38
 PRO TIP:
When making
brioche, the quality
of the butter matters.
This is the time to
splurge on a good,
high-fat butter, such
as Kerrygold or Cabot.

Mini Brioche Tte

page 44
spring 2016 40
Bubble-Top Brioche Loaf
page 44

PRO TIP:
New yeast rises best.
Always use active
yeast (not rapid-rise)
and double-check
expiration dates.
 Brioche au Sucre

PRO TIP: To make a sugar-

dusted Brioche au Sucre,
divide dough into 12 (80-gram)
portions, shape them into
balls, brush with egg wash, and
sprinkle with pearl sugar. Bake
as directed in step 5 of Mini
Brioche Tte recipe.
PRO TIP:
Mixing really matters.
Properly mixing is what
gives brioche its soft,
feathery finish. Be sure
to let every pat of butter
fully incorporate before
adding more (step 3 in
Basic Brioche Dough on
page 37). Don't rush it.

cover recipe
Brioche au Chocolat Loaf
BRIOCHE TTE
Makes 1 (8-inch) round loaf
The French name of this brioche refers to the
shape (tte means head). One of the most
recognizable forms of brioche, its noted by a
smaller dome (the head) atop the larger round
loaf. Its often simply called a Parisienne.
1. Spray a large brioche tte mold with baking
spray with our.
2. If using a scale, portion dough into 6 (160-
to 165-gram) balls. Alternatively, divide dough
evenly into 6 balls. Arrange balls in prepared
pan. Cover and let stand in a warm, draft-free
place (75) until dough is pufed, 1 hour to 1
hour and 30 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 400.
4. Brush risen loaf with egg wash, and bake for
15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350,
and continue baking until golden brown and a
thermometer inserted in center registers 190,
35 to 40 minutes more.
MINI BRIOCHE TTE
Makes 12 (3-inch diameter at the top)
For individually-sized brioche loaves, opt for the
Mini Brioche Tte. Theyre perfect for breakfast.
We like to pluck the ttes of and scoop spoons of
frozen granita, seasonal jam, or hazelnut spread,
such as Nutella, in the remaining brioche.
1. Spray 12 (3-inch) brioche tte molds with
baking spray with our.
2. If using a scale, portion dough into 12 (60-
gram) balls and 12 (20-gram) balls. Alternatively,
divide dough evenly into 12 pieces. Pinch of
about of each dough ball and set aside.
3. Roll each piece of dough (large and small)
into a ball. Place large balls into prepared molds
and small balls onto a baking sheet lined with
parchment paper. Cover and let stand in a
warm, draft-free place (75) until dough is
pufed, 30 to 40 minutes.
4. Preheat oven to 400.
5. Using your thumbs, make a deep indentation
in the center of each large ball. Place smaller
balls into the wells, and brush with egg wash.
Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature
to 350, and continue baking until golden
brown and a thermometer inserted in center
registers 190, about 12 minutes more.
To make an egg wash, lightly beat 1 large egg.
BUBBLE-TOP BRIOCHE LOAF
Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf
By arranging balls of dough in a single pan, youll
get a loaf of brioche that pulls apart almost like
monkey bread.
1. Grease a 9x5-inch loaf pan.
2. If using a scale, portion dough into 8 (120-
gram) balls. Alternatively, divide dough evenly
into 8 balls. Arrange balls in prepared pan.
Cover and let stand in a warm, draft-free place
(75) until dough is pufed, 1 hour to 1 hour and
30 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 400.
4. Brush risen loaf with egg wash, and bake for
15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350,
and continue baking until golden brown and a
thermometer inserted in center registers 190,
30 to 35 minutes more.
BRIOCHE AU CHOCOLAT LOAF
Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf
Adding dark chocolate to basic brioche gives it
a rich, deeply satisfying twist that feels just as
at home on the breakfast table as the dessert
plate.
1 recipe Basic Brioche Dough
(recipe on page 37)
cup (140 grams) high-quality
64% dark chocolate, chopped
Egg wash
1. Grease a 9x5-inch loaf pan.
2. On a lightly oured surface, turn out
dough. Punch down dough, and sprinkle
chocolate onto dough. Knead chocolate
into dough briey, just until chocolate is
incorporated. Shape dough into a loaf,
and place seam side down in prepared
pan. Cover and let stand in a warm,
draft-free place (75) until dough is
pufed, 30 to 40 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 400.
4. Brush risen loaf with
egg wash, and bake for
15 minutes. Reduce oven
temperature to 350, and
continue baking until golden
brown and a thermometer
inserted in center registers 190,
35 to 40 minutes more. b
spring 2016 44
A glorious combination of crunch and cream, these delicate meringue sandwiches shine
in the pastry case spotlight but simply don't survive the rigors of shipping. Here's
our easy-enough-for-beginners recipe for creating these pastel wonders at home.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN O'HAGAN / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON / STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAIGEL

Makes about 36
We highly recommend using gram measurements
for this recipe. Precision is key for the best
macaron outcome.
1 cups (150 grams) confectioners sugar
1 cups (150 grams) almond flour
cup (110 grams) aged egg whites, divided
(see note)
Gel food coloring*
cup plus 2 tablespoons plus teaspoon
(150 grams) granulated sugar
3 tablespoons (37 grams) water
teaspoon (2 grams) meringue powder
Desired filling (recipes follow)
1. Line the back side of baking sheets with
Silpat nonstick baking mats.
2. In a medium bowl, sift together
confectioners sugar and almond flour. Add
cup (55 grams) egg whites and desired food
coloring. Set aside.
3. In a small saucepan, bring granulated
sugar and 3 tablespoons water to a boil over
medium-high heat. Let simmer until a candy
47 bake from scratch
thermometer registers 118, about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the whisk attachment, beat meringue
powder and remaining cup (55 grams) egg
whites at low speed until frothy.
4. When sugar mixture reaches 118, remove
from heat. Increase mixer speed to high, and
add sugar mixture in a slow, steady stream,
being careful not to let sugar mixture hit sides
of bowl. Mix at high speed until mixture is
glossy with smooth peaks, 10 to 15 minutes.
Gently fold almond flour mixture into whipped
egg white mixture in thirds, being careful not to
deflate egg whites.
5. Spoon mixture into a piping bag fitted with
a #10 or #12 round tip, and pipe 1-inch
circles 2 inches apart on Silpat on back side of
prepared pans. Lift pan to a height of 6 inches
above counter, and drop to release air bubbles.
Repeat 3 or 4 times. Let stand at room
temperature until macarons form a skin, 20 to
30 minutes. (Macarons should feel dry to the
touch and not stick to the finger.)
6. Preheat oven to 280. Bake for 18 to
20 minutes, rotating pans halfway through
baking. Remove Silpats from baking sheets
immediately after removing from oven. Let cool
completely before filling. (Shells may be placed
in airtight containers and frozen for up to 1
month before filling and serving.)
7. Spoon or pipe about teaspoon desired
filling over flat side of half of cookies. Place
remaining cookies, flat side down, on top of
filling. Store in airtight containers in refrigerator
for up to 1 week, or freeze for up to 1 month.
*We used Wilton Icing Colors in Leaf Green,
Lemon Yellow, and Rose.
Aged Egg Whites
To age egg whites, place 8 to 12 egg whites in a
medium bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, and let
stand at room temperature for 3 to 6 hours.
Alternatively, egg whites may be collected over
the course of a week or a month and kept in an
airtight container in refrigerator. Let egg whites
come to room temperature before using.
The varieties of macaron flavors are seemingly
endless. But here are a few classics to get you
started.
RASPBERRY CURD
Makes about 1 cups
3 cups frozen raspberries
cup (116 grams) sugar
1 lemon, zested and juiced
3 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons (27 grams) cornstarch
teaspoon (0.5 grams) salt
4 tablespoons (413 grams) unsalted butter,
softened
1. In a medium saucepan, bring raspberries,
sugar, lemon zest, and lemon juice to a boil over
medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low,
and simmer for 5 minutes. Transfer mixture
to the container of a blender, and process
until smooth. Strain mixture through a fine-
mesh sieve; discard solids. Return mixture to
saucepan, and heat over medium heat.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks,
cornstarch, and salt. Add about cup hot
raspberry mixture to eggs, whisking constantly.
Add egg mixture to remaining hot raspberry
mixture. Cook over medium-high heat,
whisking constantly, until thickened, 5 to 7
minutes. Remove from heat, and add butter, 1
tablespoon at a time, whisking to combine after
each addition.
3. Let cool completely in refrigerator before
using, at least 2 hours. (Curd will keep
refrigerated for up to 1 week.)
CHOCOLATEORANGE GANACHE
Makes about 1 cup
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 orange, zested
1 cups (230 grams) 66% chocolate,
chopped
1. In a small saucepan, combine cream and
orange zest over medium-high heat. Bring to
just below a boil; remove from heat. Cover and
let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.
2. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve;
discard solids. Return cream to saucepan, and
bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.
3. Place chocolate in a medium heat-proof
bowl. Pour simmering cream over chocolate,
and cover with plastic wrap for 5 minutes.
Whisk together chocolate and cream until
smooth. Let cool completely in refrigerator
before using, 1 to 2 hours. (Chocolate should
be pliable but not runny.)
BASIC BUTTERCREAM
Makes about 2 cups
cup (113 grams) butter, softened
3 cups (360 grams) confectioners sugar
teaspoon (2 grams) salt
1. In a large bowl, beat butter with a mixer at
medium speed until creamy. Gradually add
confectioners sugar and salt, beating until
smooth.
Three Easy Buttercream Variations
Lemon: Add the zest and juice of 1 lemon.
Vanilla Bean: Add scraped seeds of half a
vanilla bean.
Pistachio: Add cup finely ground pistachios,
teaspoon kosher salt, and 1 to 2 drops green
food coloring. b

PIPING TIPS: Be sure to use

a Silpat for piping macarons.
Macarons rarely stick to a Silpat.
When piping, keep your pastry bag
straight up and down. Squeeze,
release pressure, and twist your
wrist to stop flow of macaron
mixture. This prevents getting a
peak on the top of your macaron.
If you do get a peak, wet your
fingertip with water and brush top
of macaron to remove.

spring 2016 48
BY CLOTILDE DUSOULIER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
STEPHEN DEVRIES
The French are fiercely particular about their croissants.
with that in mind, We sent Clotilde Dusoulier, the hungry mastermind
behind the Paris-based blog Chocolate & Zucchini, to peel back the flaky
layers and uncover the very best the City of Light has to offer.

The scene is a typical Paris caf in early morning. A
man approaches the counter in full business attire. Un
express, sil vous plat! As he waits to the clang and hiss
of the espresso machine, he plucks a fresh croissant from
the basket on the zinc bartop and downs it in three bites,
shielding his tie from the shower of buttery crumbs.
Croissants are everywhere in Paris. From the smell
wafting out of bakeries air vents to the bulging paper
bag brought in by a coworker for the first meeting of the
day to little kids devouring their after-school snack, the
golden, crescent-shaped treat is as much a part of the
scenery as the Eiffel Tower.
But it would be nave to imagine you can walk into a
random Paris bakery and find your bliss. Made with
leavened puff pastry, hovering between sweet and savory,
an outstanding croissant is a true work of craftsmanship
that demands the highest quality butter and flour, well-
honed skills, and a lot of time for the dough to develop
its full flavor.
The result then is so good that it shuts you right up: two
irresistibly crunchy tips, a crisp and lightly caramelized
outer shell, a moist and creamy crumb that pulls away
in fluffy strands, and a clean taste of butter. I know such
dreamy croissants are out there, but who makes the best?
On a weekday morning, I decide to start bright and early
and hit my list of most-trusted artisans.
I am so passionate about croissants that I am willing
to trek out to the other side of Paris for a good one,
hopping onto my bicycle and pedalling my way across
the Seine and through multiple arrondissements. But I
live in Montmartre, a neighborhood thats teeming with
award-winning bakeries, so this is where my quest begins.

spring 2016 50
 Maison Landemaine
26 rue des Martyrs
9th Arrondissement
Mtro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette
One of 11 neighborhood bakeries run by
a talented young bakepreneur.
maisonlandemaine.com; closed Mondays
I start out on rue des Martyrs, a narrow market street in the
9th arrondissement that climbs its way steeply up the hill
to the heart of Montmartre. It is 7 a.m., and the many food
shops lining the street are still shuttered. But the doors to
Maison Landemaine have just opened, and the buttery
scent of freshly baked croissants invites me in.

One could not be blamed for thinking this a simple

neighborhood bakery, but upon closer inspection, its
impossible not to notice the skilled touch on the wheels
of sourdough, the appetizing powers of the cacao-spiked
loaves, and the tumbling stack of golden croissants by the
register.

The namesake owner is Rodolphe Landemaine, a remarkably

talented bakepreneur who, at just 38 years old, runs a
tiny empire of eleven shops in Paris. Consistency is key in
such a business, and he knows that croissants are extremely
susceptible to human variationsgive the same recipe,
ingredients, and training to five bakers and youll get five
completely different croissants. So Landemaine has trained
a single team of hyper-specialized bakers who prepare a
whopping 6,000 croissants each day to deliver to his Paris
boutiques, where theyll be baked fresh in time for the
opening.

The lady at the register lays my croissant across a thin sheet

of paper, closes it up, and ties the corners together in one
expert, swirling motion. I grab it and go, for the shop is
small and already theres a line behind me. Standing on
the sidewalk, I unsheath the croissant. Still warm from the
oven, its shell shatters when I bite in and the crumb melts
on my tongue with a buttery sigh.
 From there, its a steep climb up and around the Montmartre
hill to visit Gontran Cherrier, whos as close to a celebrity
baker as youll get in France. In his mid-thirties, with floppy
hair and a kind smile, he is as comfortable on television
as he is in his flour-dusted chef whites. At his bright and
welcoming bakery on rue Caulaincourt, a wooden counter
runs the length of the windows, and there I can sit and
taste the superlative croissant he makes. Because he likes
to work with a very cold dough, the multiple layers of the
puff pastry fan out beautifully in the oven, creating perfect
pleats that collapse in the mouth in a million sweet crumbs.

Cherrier is a judge on La Meilleure Boulangerie de France, a

television show that takes viewers around France in search
of the best bakeries, and he says the croissant is an excellent
product to judge an artisan by, as its all skill and no flurries.

With the flavor of Cherriers croissant still vivid in my mind,

I am excited to compare it to that of Dominique Saibron,
a long-established artisan who shares many of Cherriers
baking beliefs. I climb back onto my bike and cycle out to
the other side of the citythrough the Marais, the Latin
Quarter, and Montparnasseuntil I reach the large and
bustling Place dAlsia where Saibrons bakery stands.

To this seasoned craftsman, perfecting the croissant is

important not just for its own sake, but because the quality
of this iconic product reflects directly on the rest of the
product range: get customers hooked on your croissant, an
affordable treat usually priced between 1 euro and 1.60, and
theyll confidently spend a dozen more when its time to
buy a seasonal fruit tart for Sunday lunch with the in-laws.

But for now, taking advantage of the seating area that

Saibron has set up at the back of his bakery, it is his croissant
I admire. I notice the well-caramelized, highly flavorful
underbelly that comes from baking it in the same stone-
floor oven thats used for breads, and I understand why
Saibron sees his croissant as a flagship item.

22 rue Caulaincourt
18th Arrondissement
Mtro: Blanche
Gontran C herrier Frances favorite celebrity baker. Excellent viennoiseries and specialty
breads, including a rye and red miso loaf.
gontran-cherrier-boulanger.com; closed Wednesdays
 Domini ue Sairon
77 avenue du Gnral Leclerc
14th Arrondissement
Mtro: Alesia
Large bakery with a welcoming seating area
to sample your purchases.
dominique-saibron.com; closed Mondays

spring 2016 54
 I look at my watch and see that it is now past 9 a.m., so
its a good time to visit Claire Damon, whose bakery is a
ten-minute bike ride across the Montparnasse train tracks.
Damon is the thirty-something, female pastry chef behind
Des Gteaux et du Pain (cakes and bread), a bakery
cum pastry shop designed like an upscale jewelry store,
with dramatic lighting cast on the cakes and loaves. The
atmosphere can be a little intimidating, but I keep my
eye on the prize and order my croissant, with the special
excitement of knowing its a limited-edition product.

A limited-edition croissant? Yes indeed, for Damon has

made the unique decision to scale back her production.
Croissants were selling remarkably well at her shop, but
her process is so exacting, from the choice of ingredients to
the lengthy fermentation and precise shaping, that she felt
it was taking too much time and attention away from her
other creations.

She simply decided her shop wouldnt open until 9 a.m.,

when the early-morning, croissant-hungry crowd had long
gone in to work. So the late bird catches this particular
worm. Damons croissant is generous and impeccably
flaky, with a bright taste of butter and a diamond-shaped
silhouette.

And when it comes to croissants, shape definitely matters: It

is the unique landscape of ridges and grooves that provides
textural contrast between soft and crisp, and makes the
eating experience so blissful.

And I now want to visit one baker who is departing from

the traditional in that regard. I ride back to the Right Bank
to reach the Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood, where Du
Pain et des Ides (bread and ideas) is established. This is
the boulangerie run by Christophe Vasseur, the boulangerie
bread lovers in the know often named their favorite.

Des Gteaux et du Pain Like many late bloomersVasseurs first career was in the
fashion industrythis baker has a very individual approach
to his craft. His range is narrow, and each item he sells is
the result of extensive creative thinking. Indeed Vasseurs
63 Boulevard Pasteur
15th Arrondissement croissant is unlike anyone elses, eschewing the traditional
Mtro: Pasteur shape for a beautiful hybrid, more knot than crescent.
One of the few pastry shops in France run by a
female chef. Stark black dcor and top-notch
range of pastries and breads.
desgateauxetdupain.com; closed Tuesdays
Du Pain et des Ides
34 rue Yves Toudic
10th Arrondissement
Mtro: Jacques Bonsergent
A short range of superbly crafted goods.
Try the signature Pain des Amis, a slow-
fermented loaf with a smoky flavor.
dupainetdesidees.com; closed Saturday and
Sunday
 Vasseur uses heritage wheat flours and butter from a small
co-op. These choices dont make his job any easiernon-
standardized ingredients have a mind of their ownbut
they produce a one-of-a-kind croissant with remarkably
attractive golden tips and hints of orange blossom.

The final bakery I want to visit is just a few blocks from

Vasseurs bakery, so I simply walk closer to the Canal to
get to Libert, Benot Castels bread and pastry shop. It is a
bright and funky space with an open prep area, where I get
to gawk while the pastry elves pipe and scoop and roll all
kinds of doughs and creams to make the signature tarte la
crme in particular.

The croissant magic, however, happens in the downstairs

lab. When the freshest batch emerges, golden bellies bulging
proudly, there isnt much else I want to look at. I choose a
little table by the window and sit down with my still-warm
purchase. I gaze at it with adoring eyes while I wait for it
to cool completely. To me, a croissant tastes best when the
butter has had time to set.

This gives me a chance to reflect upon my morning tasting

adventure and thank my lucky stars that I live in a city
with so many talented artisans who devote their skills to
creating such perfect golden treats. I will be riding home
with buttery flakes in the folds of my scarf and a happy
smile on my face. b

39 rue des Vinaigriers

10th Arrondissement
L ibert Mtro: Jacques Bonsergent
Bakery and pastry shop with an open area
where you can see the pastry team at work.
liberte-patisserie-boulangerie.com
 Five tips to navigate
the French bakery scene
1. A boulangerie (bakery) centers on bread
and viennoiseries (puf pastry confections
such as croissant and pain au chocolat);
a ptisserie (pastry shop) focuses on
pastries. Its a rare boulanger who makes
good pastries and vice versa, so stick to
their respective area of specialty.

2. Bakeries have fresh croissants at opening

time (typically at 7 a.m. or 7:30 a.m.),
then churn out a couple more batches
throughout the day, with the last one
scheduled for 4:30 p.m. when kids get
out of school.

3. Parisians know their food, and theyll only

wait in line if a bakery is worth it. So if
youre scouting out a new neighborhood,
look for the boulangerie that has a line
snaking out onto the sidewalk.

4. Since lines can be long at the popular

places (see #3!) and people expect them
to move briskly, make sure you have your
order ready by the time its your turn. (Its
okay to dilly-dally as long as youre not in
the line.)

5. For purchases under 10 euros, be

prepared to pay in cash. And look out for
the automatic registers that more and
more bakeries install to avoid handling
the change.

spring 2016 60
Poached Leeks with
Eggs and Shallot Vinaigrette
page 64
 a taste of
Springtime in the South of France means rose all day and lingering
feasts al fresco. Whether you make this entire mealand we
suggest you door just zero in on a few favorites, we promise
you' ll be itching for your own boules court by dessert.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY LOREN WOOD / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
 Spring
Herb Quiche

No Provenal meal is complete

without a Grand Aoli platter.
See our Aoli recipe on page 65.
POACHED LEEKS WITH EGGS AND
SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE
Makes 6 to 8 servings
With our quick-poach method, the leeks melt to
tender in only a few minutes. Soft-boiled eggs and
a bit of toasted hazelnut complement the shallot
vinaigrette and add rich texture.
6 cups water
1 tablespoon kosher salt
10 leeks, cleaned and trimmed
4 soft-boiled eggs, divided
Shallot Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
cup toasted hazelnuts
Garnish: chervil
1. To a large bowl, add ice water; set aside.
2. In a small stockpot, bring 6 cups water and
salt to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce
heat to medium-low, and maintain a simmer.
Add leeks, and gently simmer for 8 to 10
minutes. Remove pan from heat, and drain.
Add leeks to ice water, and let cool completely;
drain, and pat leeks dry.
3. Finely dice 2 eggs. Cut remaining 2 eggs into
quarters.
4. Place leeks on a serving platter. Sprinkle with
diced eggs, and drizzle with desired amount of
Shallot Vinaigrette. Add egg quarters to platter.
Sprinkle with hazelnuts. Garnish with chervil, if
desired. Serve with remaining Shallot Vinaigrette.
Shallot Vinaigrette
Makes about 1 cup
cup sherry vinegar
3 tablespoons minced shallot
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
teaspoon kosher salt
teaspoon ground black pepper
cup extra-virgin olive oil
SPRING HERB QUICHE WITH
ROASTED SHALLOTS AND
CIPOLLINI ONIONS
Makes 8 servings
Roasting these shallots deepens their avor,
and transforms this basic ingredient into
the star of any recipe.
Pte Brise (recipe follows)
1 cup heavy whipping cream
5 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 large egg yolk
2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill
1 teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram
teaspoon kosher salt
teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup grated fontina cheese
Roasted Shallots and Cipollini Onions
(recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 325.
2. On a lightly oured surface, roll Pte Brise running, add ice water in a slow,
into a 15x6-inch rectangle. Transfer dough to steady stream, 1 tablespoon at a
a 13x3-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, time. Pulse just until dough comes
pressing into bottom and up sides. Trim of together. (Use more water for a
excess dough. Line dough with parchment smooth consistency. Dough should not
paper, and ll with pie weights. Bake for 20 be sticky.) Remove dough, and gather
minutes; remove pie weights, and bake until loosely to shape into a disk. Wrap with
light golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes more. plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least
Remove from oven, and let cool completely. 1 hour.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together cream,
eggs, and egg yolk until smooth. Add parsley, Note: Use plastic wrap instead of your hands
dill, marjoram, salt, and pepper, whisking to to gather and shape the dough into a disk.
combine. Sprinkle cheese onto bottom of This decreases the likelihood of the heat from
prepared crust. Pour mixture over cheese. your hands afecting the dough. This dough
4. Bake until mixture is set, about 25 minutes. can be made ahead, wrapped tightly in plastic
Remove from oven, and let cool slightly. Top wrap, and frozen for up to 1 month.
with Roasted Shallots and Cipollini Onions.
Serve warm or chilled. Cover and refrigerate Roasted Shallots and Cipollini Onions
for up to 3 days. Makes about 1 pound

1. In a small bowl, combine vinegar and shallot.
Let shallot sit for at least 15 minutes or up to
1 day.
2. Add mustard and honey, whisking to
combine. Stir in thyme, salt, and pepper.
Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in oil until
combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least
2 hours or up to 5 days.
Note: Its best to let the shallot macerate in the
vinegar for as long as possible, up to 1 day, to
allow the shallot to soften and give an attention-
grabbing avor and bite to the vinaigrette.
Pte Brise
Makes dough for 1 (13x3-inch) tart
1 cups (185 grams) all-purpose flour
teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
teaspoon (1.5 grams) sugar
cup (115 grams) cold unsalted butter,
cubed
2 to 4 tablespoons ice water, ice strained
1. In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse
together our, salt, and sugar. Add butter, and
pulse until mixture is crumbly. With processor
8 ounces shallots, peeled and halved
10 ounces cipollini onions, peeled and halved
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
teaspoon ground black pepper
1. Preheat oven to 425. Line a rimmed baking
sheet with foil.
2. Toss shallots and onions in oil to coat. Season
with salt and pepper. Place on prepared pan.
3. Roast until tender and golden brown, about
30 minutes. Remove from oven, and let cool
completely.

spring 2016 64

AOLI
Makes 2 cups
This time of year, especially around Easter, aoli
is the essential condiment. Typically youll find
this Provenal sauce served on a platter with
shrimp, boiled potatoes, green beans, bright spring
radishes, and any other produce fresh from the
market. These bountiful platters are known as a
Grand Aoli. No southern French feast is complete
without one.
4 large egg yolks
4 small cloves garlic, roasted
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup grapeseed oil
to 1 cup fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
teaspoon ground black pepper
teaspoon ground red pepper
1. In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse
together egg yolks, garlic cloves, and mustard.
With processor running, slowly drizzle in olive
oil and grapeseed oil until combined. Add
enough lemon juice until desired consistency
is reached. Season with salt, black pepper, and
red pepper.
Note: Pasteurized egg yolks can be used if
necessary.
GRILLED LAMB CHOPS
WITH HERB CHIMICHURRI
Makes 4 to 6 servings
These grilled lamb chops have a slight char,
yet remain tender if cooked to the proper
65 bake from scratch
temperature. We recommend serving them
medium rare with our Herb Chimichurri that you
can whip up in minutes.
cup olive oil
2 (3-pound) racks of lamb (6 to 8 ribs
each), bones trimmed and frenched, room
temperature
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
Herb Chimichurri (recipe follows)
1. Rub oil over lamb. Using foil, wrap bones to
protect from heat. Season meat with salt and
pepper on both sides of rack.
2. Preheat grill to medium heat (350). Grill
lamb racks over direct medium heat, keeping lid
closed as much as possible, until desired degree
of doneness is reached, 8 to 10 minutes for
medium rare, turning once or twice. Remove
from grill; let rest for 3 to 5 minutes. Serve with
Herb Chimichurri.
Note: Cooking times depend on how big your rack
of lamb is (if larger or smaller than 3 pounds), as
well as what degree of doneness you desire. Rack
of lamb is best cooked rare or at most medium
rare. The FDA recommends cooking lamb chops
to an internal temperature of 145.
Herb Chimichurri
Makes about 1 cups
2 whole allspice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
teaspoon black peppercorns
teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 shallot, minced
1 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 cup chopped fresh tarragon
1 cup chopped fresh marjoram
cup to cup olive oil
1 to 3 tablespoons Grenache vinegar
1 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1. In a cofee grinder or mortar and pestle, grind
allspice, salt, peppercorns, and red pepper until ne.
2. In the work bowl of a food processor,
pulse together shallot, parsley, tarragon, and
marjoram until smooth. Add spice mixture,
pulsing to combine. Add oil, vinegar, and lemon
juice, and pulse to desired consistency.
CELERIAC SALAD
Makes 4 to 6 servings
This bistro classic slaw typically uses rmoulade as
a dressing, but we have used our Aoli as the base
here.
2 pounds celery root, washed, trimmed,
peeled, and julienned
2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
cup fresh lemon juice
1 cups Aoli (recipe precedes)
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons whole grain mustard
2 tablespoons mustard seed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons fresh chervil
1 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
1 teaspoons ground black pepper
teaspoon ground white pepper
teaspoon sugar
4 stalks celery, thinly sliced
1 bulb fennel, thinly sliced
1 head Belgian endive, washed, trimmed,
and chopped
Garnish: celery leaf, fresh parsley
1. In a large bowl, combine celery root, 1
teaspoons salt, and lemon juice. Let mixture stand
at room temperature for at least 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk
together Aoli, Dijon mustard, whole grain
mustard, mustard seed, dill, chervil, vinegar,
black pepper, white pepper, sugar, and
remaining 1 teaspoon salt.
3. Add celery, fennel, and endive to celery root
mixture, stirring to combine. Add enough aoli
mixture to slightly moisten slaw. Use remaining
aoli mixture as desired. Garnish with celery leaf
and parsley, if desired. Cover and refrigerate
for up to 3 days.
Celeriac Salad

Grilled Lamb Chops

Star Anise Sparkler

Tarte au Citron
STAR ANISE SPARKLER
Makes 1 drink
The French love their pastis, an aperitif that
tastes of licorice. Its a avor you love or hate.
Weve created a rif on this easy-drinking cocktail
that uses a Star Anise Simple Syrup to sweetly
highlight the classic aniseed avors, without the
bitterness.
Ice cubes
ounce Lillet Blanc
1 teaspoon Star Anise Simple Syrup (recipe
follows)
4 to 6 ounces Champagne, chilled
Garnish: lemon twist
1. Place a cocktail glass in the freezer to chill.
2. To a drink shaker, add enough ice cubes to fill
halfway. Add Lillet Blanc and Star Anise Simple
Syrup. Shake vigorously until outside of shaker
is frosted, about 1 minute. Strain into chilled
glass. Top with Champagne. Garnish with a
lemon twist, if desired.
Star Anise Simple Syrup
Makes 1 cup
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1 star anise
1. In a small saucepan, bring sugar and 1 cup
water to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to
medium, and simmer until sugar is dissolved,
about 10 minutes. Remove from heat; add
star anise. Steep anise for 10 minutes; remove
anise. Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.
TARTE AU CITRON WITH PINE NUT
CRUST
Makes 1 (9-inch) tart
Rosemary adds a subtle savory note behind the
sweetness of this tart dough, while the punch of
Meyer lemon perfectly complements the mellow
avor of roasted pine nuts.
Crust:
1 cup finely ground toasted pine nuts
3 tablespoons (12 grams) sugar
2 teaspoons (3 grams) chopped fresh
rosemary
teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
1 cups (210 grams) all-purpose flour
cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, softened
1 large egg yolk
Filling:
1 cups (324 grams) sugar
cup plus 1 tablespoon (79 grams)
all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons (18 grams) cornstarch
teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
6 large eggs
6 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon clear vanilla extract
1 cups fresh Meyer lemon juice
Garnish: Candied Meyer Lemon Slices
(recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 325.
2. For crust: In the work bowl of a food
processor, pulse together pine nuts, sugar,
rosemary, and salt. Add flour, and pulse until
finely ground.
3. In a medium bowl, beat nut mixture, butter,
and egg yolk with a mixer at medium speed until
combined. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate
for at least 10 minutes.
4. Press dough into bottom and up sides of a
9-inch tart pan at least 3 inches deep with a Candied Meyer Lemon Slices
removable bottom. Line dough with parchment Makes about 36
paper, and add pie weights. Bake until lightly
browned, about 15 minutes. Remove from 6 Meyer lemons
oven, and let cool slightly. Remove pie weights 2 cups sugar
and parchment paper; return to oven, and 2 cups water
bake until light golden brown and firm, about
10 minutes more. Remove from oven, and set 1. Using a mandoline, slice lemons into paper-
aside. thin rounds; remove seeds and discard.
5. Reduce oven temperature to 300. 2. In a medium bowl, combine lemon slices and
6. For filling: In a medium bowl, whisk together sugar. Let mixture sit until sugar is dissolved,
sugar, flour, cornstarch, and salt. In another about 30 minutes.
medium bowl, whisk together eggs, egg yolks, 3. In a medium saucepan, bring lemon-sugar
and vanilla. Add sugar mixture to egg mixture, mixture and 2 cups water to a boil over high
whisking to combine. Add lemon juice; whisk heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer,
until smooth. stirring occasionally, until translucent, about
7. Pour filling into warm crust. Bake until 30 minutes, being careful not to let mixture
mixture is set but still jiggles slightly in center, caramelize.
about 20 minutes. Remove from oven, and 4. Remove from heat, and let cool slightly. Strain
let cool completely. Refrigerate for at least mixture, reserving lemon slices. Place lemon
4 hours or overnight. Garnish with Candied slices on parchment paper; let dry at room
Meyer Lemon Slices, if desired. Cover and temperature. (Lemons will be sticky.) Cover and
refrigerate for up to 3 days. freeze for up to 1 week. b
spring 2016 68
e a s y
n
Fre xc h
G e u taken most beloved cakes
France and simplified them so any home cook can whip up
a dacquoise or clafoutis. Try your hand at any or all of them:
traditional, delicious, and easy as, er, cake.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING
BY VANESSA ROCCHIO
Gteau Basque
page 73
 Raspberry Dacquoise
page 73

71 bake from scratch

Cherry Clafoutis
page 74

GTEAU BASQUE
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake
A aky crust surrounds a pastry cream in this
traditional dessert from the Basque region of
France. The name is French and means simply
"Basque Cake." In the Basque language, the cake
is called "Etxeko biskotxa" or "cake of the house."
3 cups (465 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoons (18 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt
1 cup (230 grams) unsalted butter
2 cups (370 grams) sugar
3 large egg yolks
3 large eggs, divided
Custard Filling (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon water
Confectioners sugar
1. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking
powder, and salt; set aside.
2. In a large bowl, beat butter and sugar with
a mixer at medium speed until light and flufy,
about 3 minutes. Add egg yolks and 2 eggs,
73 bake from scratch
beating until well combined. Reduce mixer speed
to low, and gradually beat in our mixture.
3. Turn out dough, and shape into 2 disks. Wrap
each disk in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until
rm, at least 1 hour.
4. Spray a 9-inch springform pan with baking
spray with our.
5. On a lightly oured surface, roll out 1
piece of dough to a 12-inch circle. Transfer
to prepared pan, pressing into bottom and up
sides. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
6. Pour Custard Filling into chilled crust, and
refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
7. Roll out remaining piece of dough to a 12-inch
circle. Place over lling, crimp edges, and trim
excess dough. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
8. Preheat oven to 400.
9. Beat together remaining egg and 1
tablespoon water; brush top of dough with egg
mixture. Bake for 20 minutes. Reduce oven
temperature to 350, and bake 25 minutes
more, covering with foil if necessary to prevent
excess browning. Dust with confectioners
sugar just before serving.
Custard Filling
Makes about 2 cups
2 cups whole milk
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds
scraped and reserved
cup (93 grams) sugar
cup (72 grams) cornstarch
3 tablespoons (27 grams) all-purpose flour
6 large egg yolks
2 large eggs
1. In a medium saucepan, heat milk and vanilla
bean seeds over medium heat.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together sugar,
cornstarch, our, egg yolks, and eggs. Whisk
hot milk mixture into sugar mixture. Return
mixture to saucepan, and cook over medium
heat, whisking constantly, until bubbling and
very thick, about 5 minutes.
3. Remove from heat. Transfer to a large bowl,
and press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto
surface. Let cool to room temperature before
using, about 1 hour.
RASPBERRY DACQUOISE
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake
With alternating layers of meringue and
buttercream, this raspberry-laden showstopper
looks like a work of art, but can be easily
accomplished with nothing fancier than a pastry
bag. If you dont have a pastry bag, you can use
a plastic storage bag with one of the corners
snipped of instead.
1 cup shelled pistachios
1 cup (185 grams) sugar
6 large egg whites
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Buttercream (recipe follows)
2 cups fresh raspberries
Whipped Cream (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon ground pistachios
1. Preheat oven to 250. Trace 3 (8-inch)
circles on parchment paper, and place on
2 jelly-roll pans.
2. In the work bowl of a food processor,
combine pistachios and sugar. Process until
finely ground.
3. In a large bowl, beat egg whites with a mixer
at high speed, until foamy. Gradually add
sugar-nut mixture until sugar is dissolved and
egg whites are glossy and stif. Beat in vanilla.
Place meringue in a pastry bag, and pipe onto
3 prepared parchment circles from the outside
to the inside. Bake on separate racks for about
1 hour. Turn oven of, and leave meringue in
oven with door closed overnight to dry out.
4. Place 1 meringue round on a plate. Gently
spread half of Buttercream over meringue.
Arrange half of raspberries over Buttercream
in an even layer. Repeat with second meringue,
remaining Buttercream, and remaining
raspberries. Top with remaining meringue,
Whipped Cream, and ground pistachios.
Buttercream
Makes 2 cups
cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups (270 grams) confectioners sugar
3 tablespoons whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. In a medium bowl, beat butter with a mixer
at medium speed until creamy, 3 to 4 minutes.
Gradually add confectioners sugar, milk, and
vanilla, beating until smooth.
Whipped Cream
Makes 1 cup
cup heavy whipping cream
cup (32 grams) confectioners sugar
1. In a medium bowl, beat cream and
confectioners sugar with a mixer at medium
speed until soft peaks form.
CHERRY CLAFOUTIS
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Back when this recipe was first made, the cherry
pits were left in the dish. The pits would give an
almond-like flavor when baked. We took the pits
out and added almond extract.
1 cups heavy whipping cream
cup plus 2 tablespoons (96 grams)
granulated sugar, divided
cup (70 grams) all-purpose flour
teaspoon (0.75 grams) kosher salt
3 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
teaspoon almond extract
3 cups pitted fresh cherries
Confectioners sugar
1. Preheat oven to 350. Lightly grease a 7-cup
baking dish.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together cream, cup
(72 grams) granulated sugar, flour, salt, eggs,
and extracts. Let stand for 10 minutes.
3. Pour batter to a depth of inch into
prepared dish (set aside remaining batter), and
bake for 10 minutes.
4. In a medium bowl, toss cherries with remaining
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar. Place
cherries on top of baked custard. Stir remaining
batter, and pour over cherries. (Tip: You dont
want to whisk the batter, because this forms
bubbles on top of the custard when baking.)
5. Bake until soft and set in center, about 30
minutes. Let cool for 20 minutes. Serve warm or
cold with confectioners sugar sprinkled on top.
ALMOND GTEAU BRETON
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake
This traditional butter cake from Brittany, in
northwest France, is one of the simplest, most
satisfying of the French cakesit doesnt require
layers, frosting, or any special equipment.
1 cups (231 grams) sugar
cup whole blanched almonds, toasted
6 large egg yolks
1 cup (230 grams) unsalted butter, melted
2 cups (280 grams) all-purpose flour
1 large egg
2 teaspoons water
Lemon Compote (recipe follows)
Confectioners sugar
1. Preheat oven to 325. Spray a 9-inch round
cake pan with baking spray with flour.
2. In the work bowl of a food processor,
combine sugar and almonds. Process until
finely ground, about 2 minutes.
3. In a large bowl, beat egg yolks and sugar
mixture with a mixer at medium-high speed
until thickened and light yellow, 3 to 4 minutes.
Gradually add melted butter until combined.
Sift flour over batter; stir just until blended
(batter will be thick; do not overmix).
4. Spoon batter into prepared pan, smoothing
top with an ofset spatula. Whisk together egg
and 2 teaspoons water. Brush egg mixture over
cake. Using a sharp knife, deeply mark a circular
pattern on top of cake.
5. Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick
inserted in center comes out clean, about 30
minutes. Let cool in pan for 30 minutes. Dust with
confectioners sugar. Serve with Lemon Compote.
Lemon Compote
Makes 1 cups
cup (93 grams) sugar
cup almond liqueur
Thin strips of zest from one lemon
1 large lemon, sectioned
cup chopped candied ginger
1. In a medium saucepan, melt sugar over
medium heat until golden in color. Remove from
heat, and add almond liqueur. Place saucepan
back over medium heat, and cook, stirring
occasionally, until sugar is melted. Remove from
heat, and stir in lemon zest, lemon sections, and
candied ginger. Let cool. Compote will keep
refrigerated for up to 1 week.
Almond Gteau Breton
page 74
Le Fraisier French Strawberry Cake
page 77

spring 2016 76

LE FRAISIER FRENCH
STRAWBERRY CAKE
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake
The name for this classic comes from fraise
(French for strawberry), and celebrates the
sweetness of French strawberries. It typically
starts with a sponge cake (or Gnoise), split in
half, doused with simple syrup, filled with cream
and almond paste, and garnished with sliced
strawberries. Heres our easy take on the classic.
1 cup (185 grams) sugar
1 tablespoon dried gourmet lavender
4 large eggs, room temperature
cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, melted
1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose flour
Sugar Syrup (recipe follows)
Cream Diplomat (recipe follows)
3 cups sliced fresh strawberries, divided
cup (104 grams) almond paste
3 tablespoons red currant jelly
1. Preheat oven to 325. Line the bottom of
an 8-inch springform pan with parchment paper.
Grease bottom and sides of pan with melted butter.
2. In the work bowl of a food processor, process
sugar and lavender 8 to 10 times until lavender
is finely chopped.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
whisk attachment, beat eggs and lavender
mixture at medium-high speed until flufy
and tripled in volume, 6 to 8 minutes. (Batter
should be pale yellow, thickened, and at a
ribbon consistency.) Fold in melted butter. Sift
our over batter, and gently fold in. Pour batter
into prepared pan.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center
comes out clean, about 28 minutes. Let cool
in pan completely. Run a knife around edges of
cake to loosen from pan.
5. Using a serrated knife, cut cake into 2 layers.
Brush each layer with Sugar Syrup. Place 1 cake
layer on a cake plate, and spread with Cream
Diplomat. Arrange half of strawberries over
custard, and top with second cake layer.
6. Roll almond paste into an 8-inch circle
about inch thick. Place almond paste round
on top of cake layer. Top with remaining
strawberries, and brush with currant jelly.
Sugar Syrup
Makes cup
3 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar
2 tablespoons orange liqueur
1. In a small saucepan, cook all ingredients over
medium heat until sugar is melted, stirring
occasionally. Let cool completely.
Cream Diplomat
Makes 1 cups
2 cups heavy whipping cream, divided
vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds
scraped and reserved
6 large egg yolks
cup (46 grams) sugar
3 tablespoons (27 grams) cornstarch
2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter,
softened
1. In a medium saucepan, bring 1 cups cream
and vanilla bean seeds to a boil.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk
together egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch.
3. When cream begins to come to a boil, pour
over egg yolk mixture, and whisk until smooth.
Pour egg mixture back into saucepan, and cook
over low heat, whisking until mixture thickens
and comes together. Whisk in butter. Cover
with plastic wrap, directly on surface, and
refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours.
4. In a medium bowl, beat remaining cup
cream with a mixer at high speed until stif
peaks form. Fold into custard. Refrigerate until
ready to use.
BEAUMES-DE-VENISE CAKE WITH
APRICOTS
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake
This cake is named after a French town in the
Vaucluse, and the sweet, fortified wine produced
there. The recipe traditionally calls for Beaumes-
de-Venise wine, but we love the taste of a Ctes
du Rhne varietal. Any inexpensive Muscat or
Sauternes will do as well.
1 cup Ctes du Rhne wine
1 cup chopped dried apricots
1 cups (210 grams) all-purpose our
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, softened
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus
more for greasing pan
cup plus 2 tablespoons (162 grams) sugar,
divided
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter,
cubed
1. In a small saucepan, heat wine over medium
heat until it begins to simmer. Add apricots, and
remove from heat. Let stand until cool, about
30 minutes.
2. Preheat oven to 350. Line the bottom of a
9-inch springform pan with parchment paper;
grease bottom and sides of pan with olive oil.
3. In a small bowl, whisk together our, baking
powder, and salt; set aside.
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer tted with the
paddle attachment, beat cup (120 grams)
softened butter and oil at medium speed for 5 to
10 seconds. Add cup (139 grams) sugar, lemon
zest, orange zest, and vanilla; beat until ufy,
about 3 minutes. Add eggs, one at time, beating
just until combined after each addition. Gradually
add our mixture to butter mixture alternately
with wine mixture, beginning and ending with our
mixture, beating just until combined after each
addition. Spread batter into prepared pan.
5. Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick
inserted in center comes out clean, about 30
minutes. Remove from oven, and sprinkle with
2 tablespoons (30 grams) cubed butter and
remaining 2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar;
bake 5 minutes more.
6. Let cool in pan for 20 minutes. Run a
knife around edges of cake to loosen before
removing from pan. Serve cake warm or cool. b
Beaumes-de-Venise Cake with Apricots

spring 2016 78
 Bakery Lorraine

F nCh CoNnEcTiOn
Across the country, these bakeries bring an authentic taste of France stateside
BY KAT KINSMAN

St. Honor Boulangerie

There may be no better way to start the
day than with a little something French.
Sweet or savory, thats your callbut unless you feel like waking
up at 4 a.m. to make it, youre going to need a nearby ptisserie or
boulangerie to get your croissant, cannel, boule, or baguette fix.
Here are 11 classic and contemporary bakeries across the country
that are rising to the occasion, offering masterfully-made French
pastries and breads, integrating regional flavors and ingredients, and
earning a legion of local devotees.

Bakery Loaine
SaN AnToNiO, Tx
bakerylorraine.com

Anne Ng and Jeremy Mandrell fell in love on the late shift at Thomas
Kellers Bouchon Bakery in Napa Valley and opened up a place of their
own where they vowed to bake the best croissants in all of Texas. The range
of their French pastries varies with the seasons, but their always-available,
innovatively flavored (think green apple, cereal milk, caramel apple, and dark
chocolate cassis) macarons have become something of a local obsession.

St. Hor Boulangerie

PoRtLaNd, Or
sainthonorebakery.com

Honor is the patron saint of bakers, and master baker Dominique Geulin
has been among the faithful since his childhood in coastal Normandy,
spent learning traditional bread techniques from his father. The methods
are sacrosanct, but Geulin now proudly places sustainability and local
Pacific Northwest ingredientslike direct-seeded, eco-friendly flour from
Shepherds Grainat the fore in honor of his adopted home: Portland.

Le Marais
SaN FrAnCiScO, Ca
lemaraisbakery.com

After moving to the U.S. for business school, Patrick Ascaso pined for the
pastries of France. Two decades later, he hired a head baker and a pastry
chef and opened up shop in San Francisco, where the team has won
endless accolades for their naturally leavened bread made with locally milled
organic flour, and their levain-based viennoiserie, painstakingly crafted
from countless layers of fermented dough, cultured butter, and air.

Le Marais
81 bake from scratch Bakery Lorraine
 Ins Patisserie
Cannele Patierie
QuEeNs, Ny
cannellepatisserie.com

One of NYCs most impressive ptisseries is tucked away in a strip mall

in East Elmhurst, Queens. Former Waldorf-Astoria pastry chefs Jean
Claude Perennou and Gnanasampanthan Sabaratratnam paired up to
pursue a mutual passion for regional French sweets like buttery Gteau
Breton, Pear Bourdaloue, Saint Honor, and Paris-Brest, to the great
delight of the nearby expat community and utter devotion of the not-as-
locals who work up an appetite on the long walk from the subway.

Ins Patierie
^

SeAtTlE, Wa
inespatisserie-seattle.com

Authenticity sticklers will nd much to devour at Ins Ptisserie where

Nohra Belaid serves up regular cooking and baking classes alongside
stunningly crafted sabls, religieuse, cannels, and the three-day
croissant that has earned the Northern French chef-owner a ravenous
cult following.

Vergennes Laundry
VeRgEnNeS, Vt
vergenneslaundry.squarespace.com

Julianne Jones and her French-born husband, Didier Murat, built the
sleekly styled, wood-red bakery of their dreams in a former laundromat,
initially funded by a Kickstarter campaign and memberships redeemable
in pastry. Throughout the day, the case lls up with tartes sales,
gougres, cannels, nanciers, chouquettes, and puf pastriesperfect
for pairing with a lunchtime glass of old world wine.

Babees Artisan Breads Le Marais

DeNvEr, Co
La Fournette
babettesbakery.com

Cyclist-turned-artisan bread maker Steve Scott honed his craft at

bakeries around the country, but when he moved to the Mile High
City, he ran into a roadblock: The altitudes efect on the doughs rate
of fermentation. At Babettes, hes adapted classic methods to turn out
stunning French country-style loaves with a dark, crunchy, caramelized
crustand theyre just racing out the door.
 La Bne Bouche
St. LoUiS, Mo
labonnebouchee.com

Since 1981, many a St. Louis sweet tooth has been sated by Olivier
Leguets legendary strawberry mousseline cakethe signature ofering
at his much-beloved Creve Coeur bakery. The Vendme-raised chef-
owner oversees a staf of 40 who ll the pastry cases with baba au rhum,
fruit tarts, and several dozen avors of macarons daily.

La Fournee
ChIcAgO, Il
Le Marais
lafournette.com

Fourth-generation baker Pierre Zimmermann uprooted from his

native Alsace to Chicago and brought his familyand their baking
traditionsalong with him. Wife Michele directs the front of house while
Zimmermann and sons craft classic sourdough-based baguettes, miches,
fougasses, and rustic pavs back in the kitchen.

Poupart Bakery
LaFaYeTtE, La
poupartsbakery.com

In 1965, Franois Poupart immigrated to Cajun country from Paris and

quickly found a new place to call home. Not only was there no language
barrier, the local palates were already attuned to his brand of classic
Gallic goodies. Hes since returned the favor by adding Louisiana king
cakes, doberge, and beignets to the bakerys repertoire.

La Farm Bakery
CaRy, Nc
lafarmbakery.com

The endlessly quotable Lionel Vatinet often says When you are sleeping,
we are bakingwhich means its possible to walk into his La Farm Bakery
at 7 a.m. any given day and pick up one of the 15 kinds of old-world-crafted,
innovatively flavored baguettes, boules, and pains de mie made fresh since
midnight. None of themespecially the signature sourdough, scored-
top five-pound La Farm loafwould look out of place in a European
farmhouse, and the French-born baker and author shares his craft via
hands-on classes where he teaches tricks for re-creating those bakery
conditions in the Tarheel State, thousands of miles from his native France. b

La Farm Bakery
Bakery Lorraine
Patisaterie
home
^

The French are known for their elaborate confections, but you dont
need to be a pastry chef to create many of the classics. Here are
five easy desserts that will transform your table into a tableau.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY NATHAN CARRABBA
Vanilla Madeleines with Cardamom Sugar
page 92
Quick Blood Orange Mille Feuille with Chantilly Cream
page 92
 Caramelized Lemon and
Browned Butter Financiers
page 92

spring 2016 88
 Strawberry, Pistachio, and Rose Profiteroles

89 bake from scratch

STRAWBERRY, PISTACHIO,
AND ROSE PROFITEROLES
Makes about 36
Rose water and strawberries give a spring twist
to these light and airy cream-filled pastries.
Pastry Cream:
2 cups half-and-half
cup (93 grams) granulated sugar, divided
6 egg yolks
cup (45 grams) all-purpose flour
Pinch of salt
cup (58 grams) unsalted butter
cup pistachios, chopped, plus more for
garnish
1 tablespoon rose water
Strawberry Glaze:
cup fresh strawberries, chopped, plus
more for garnish
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
3 cups (405 grams) confectioners sugar,
sifted
1 teaspoons rose water
Choux Pastry:
1 cup water
6 tablespoons (90 grams) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar
1 cups (194 grams) all-purpose flour
1 cup eggs (about 4 large eggs and 2 egg
whites)
1. For pastry cream: In a medium saucepan,
combine half-and-half and cup (46.5 grams)
granulated sugar over medium heat.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks
and remaining cup (46.5 grams) granulated
sugar until light in color. Add flour and salt,
whisking to combine.
3. Very slowly pour hot half-and-half mixture
into egg yolk mixture, stirring constantly. When
about half of half-and-half has been added,
whisk all of egg yolk mixture into the saucepan
over medium heat. Whisk pastry cream evenly
as it heats so no areas overcook. Bring mixture
to just below a boil (it should be thick).
4. Remove from heat; add butter, stirring well.
Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve. Stir
in pistachios and rose water. Place in a bowl,
and cover with plastic wrap directly on surface
to stop a skin from forming. Refrigerate until
thoroughly chilled and set, about 3 hours.
5. For strawberry glaze: In a small saucepan,
bring strawberries, 2 tablespoons water,
and lemon juice to a boil over medium-
high heat; reduce heat, and simmer until
reduced and slightly syrupy, about 5 minutes.
Transfer mixture to a large bowl, and whisk in
confectioners sugar and rose water until no
lumps remain. Set mixture aside.
6. Preheat oven to 425. Line baking sheets
with parchment paper.
7. For choux pastry: In a small saucepan, bring
1 cup water, butter, and granulated sugar to a
boil over medium-high heat. Add flour; remove
from heat. With a wooden spoon, work mixture
together, and return to heat. Continue working
mixture until all flour is incorporated and dough
forms a ball. Transfer mixture to the bowl of a
stand mixer, and let cool for 3 minutes. With
mixer running at medium-low speed, add eggs
and egg whites, one at a time, beating well after
each addition. Place dough in a piping bag fitted
with a round tip. Immediately pipe into golf-
ball-size shapes 2 inches apart on prepared
pans. Bake for 10 minutes; reduce oven
temperature to 350, and bake until golden
brown, about 15 minutes more. Remove from
oven, and immediately pierce with a paring
knife to release steam. Remove from pans, and
let cool completely on a wire rack.
8. Pipe pastry cream into centers. Dip tops of
profiteroles in strawberry glaze, and garnish
with pistachios and strawberries.
Meringue Nests with Berries
MERINGUE NESTS WITH BERRIES
Makes 8 servings
These nests are both crispy and slightly chewy at
the same time. They are the perfect vessel for ripe
berries and take very little efort.
4 egg whites, room temperature
teaspoon vanilla extract
teaspoon (1 gram) cream of tartar
cup (138 grams) sugar
4 cups assorted berries (strawberries,
blackberries, raspberries, and blueberries)
Garnish: fresh mint leaves
1. Preheat oven to 250. Line a baking sheet
with parchment paper.
2. Beat egg whites, vanilla, and cream of tartar
with a mixer at medium speed until foamy.
Increase mixer speed to high, and beat in sugar,
1 tablespoon (12.5 grams) at a time, until glossy
and stif peaks form.
3. Drop meringue into eight mounds on
prepared pan. Using the back of a spoon, shape
meringue into nests, roughly 1 inch high and
4 inches wide.
4. Bake meringues until set and dry, about
2 hours. Turn oven of, and let meringues stand
in oven with door closed for 1 hour.
5. Fill shells with assorted berries. Garnish with
mint, if desired.
VANILLA MADELEINES WITH
CARDAMOM SUGAR
Makes 24
These two-bite treats are simple to make and
excellent with a strong cup of cofee in the
morning.
3 extra-large eggs
cup (144 grams) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, melted
and cooled
1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose our
cup (36 grams) cornstarch
teaspoon (3 grams) baking powder
teaspoon (1 gram) kosher salt
cup (32 grams) confectioners sugar
1 teaspoons (3 grams) cardamom
1. Preheat oven to 375. Grease 2 nonstick
madeleine pans.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer tted with the
paddle attachment, beat eggs, granulated
sugar, and vanilla at medium speed until ufy,
about 3 minutes. Beat in butter. In a large bowl,
sift together our, cornstarch, baking powder,
and salt. Stir our mixture into batter with a
rubber spatula.
3. Spoon batter into prepared pans, lling each
shell almost full. Bake until madeleines spring
back when pressed, 10 to 12 minutes. Tap
madeleines out onto a baking sheet lined with
parchment paper.
4. In a small bowl, sift together confectioners
sugar and cardamom to remove any lumps. Sift
over warm madeleines, and serve immediately.
QUICK BLOOD ORANGE MILLE
FEUILLE WITH CHANTILLY CREAM
Makes 4 servings
This quick and easy take on the many-layered
(though not quite the thousand the name
promises) French classic delivers creamy richness
with a citrus twist.
1 cup heavy whipping cream
cup (46 grams) granulated sugar
teaspoon vanilla extract
1 (14-ounce) package frozen puf pastry,
thawed
cup (32 grams) confectioners sugar
2 blood oranges, sectioned
cup sliced almonds, toasted and chopped
1. Preheat oven to 400.
2. For the chantilly cream: In the bowl of a
stand mixer tted with the whisk attachment,
beat cream, granulated sugar, and vanilla at high
speed until soft peaks begin to form. Cover and
refrigerate until serving.
3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Sprinkle a small amount of our onto a dry work
surface. Roll puf pastry to -inch thickness.
Using a 3-inch round cutter dipped in our,
cut puf pastry into 12 circles. Place puf pastry
rounds on prepared pan.
4. Place a second baking sheet on top of the puf
pastry rounds, and place pans in the oven. Bake
pastry rounds until lightly browned and cooked
through, about 30 minutes. Check the rounds
after 20 minutes to prevent over browning.
Remove from oven, and let cool completely.
5. Transfer chantilly cream to a piping bag tted
with a small tip. Pipe cream evenly over surface
of a pastry round. Top with another pasty
round, and repeat process of adding cream,
ending with one pastry round. Dust tops of
mille feuilles with confectioners sugar. Top with
blood orange sections and almonds.
CARAMELIZED LEMON AND
BROWNED BUTTER FINANCIERS
Makes 12
The caramelized lemons and brown butter add a
deep complexity to these buttery mini cakes.
1 organic lemon, cut into -inch-thick slices
cup (93 grams) plus 3 tablespoons
(36 grams) granulated sugar, divided
cup (174 grams) plus 2 tablespoons
(30 grams) unsalted butter, divided
cup (150 grams) rmly packed light brown
sugar
teaspoon vanilla extract
5 large egg whites
1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose our, plus
more for coating pans
1 cup (128 grams) cake our
cup (70 grams) almond meal
teaspoon (2 grams) baking powder
Pinch of salt
Sweetened whipped crme frache and lemon
zest, for serving
1. To caramelize the lemons, dredge lemon
slices in cup (93 grams) granulated sugar.
In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons
(30 grams) butter over medium heat. In one
even layer, add lemons, and cook on both sides
until golden brown, sticky, and caramelized,
5 to 7 minutes. Transfer slices onto a cutting
board, and nely chop.
2. Preheat oven to 400. Grease and our
two 6-cavity mini loaf pans. In a small heavy-
bottomed skillet, heat remaining cup (174
grams) butter over medium heat. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until butter turns golden
brown and smells nutty. Immediately transfer
to a small bowl to stop the cooking process.
Whisk in brown sugar, vanilla, chopped lemon,
egg whites, and remaining 3 tablespoons (36
grams) granulated sugar.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together all-
purpose our, cake our, almond meal, baking
powder, and salt. Fold dry ingredients into
brown butter mixture until combined.
4. Spoon batter into prepared pans, and bake
until risen and lightly browned, but still slightly
soft in the center, about 15 minutes. Let cool
10 minutes, then invert onto a wire rack and
let cool competely. Serve nanciers with
sweetened crme frache and lemon zest. b
spring 2016 92
 baking with
FROMAGE
in France, cheese and bread
are intricately linked
any visitor can recall
at least one picnic with
a baguette and creamy
wedge. Here, we've put
the two together with
a handful of company-
worthy recipes that
highlight the majesty
of baking with fromage.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE AND STEPHEN DEVRIES

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BYVANESSA ROCCHIO
STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL
Cheese and Rosemary Brioche
page 98
 Herbed Goat Cheese Tart
page 98

95 bake from scratch

Camembert Straws
page 98
Brie En Crote
HERBED GOAT CHEESE TART
Makes 1 (8-inch) tart
This dish has the tart avor of cheesecake and can
be served as an appetizer or as an add-on to spruce
up a basic cheese plate. Shop your local farmers
markets for any locally-made goat cheese. We used
Belle Chevre from Elkmont, Alabama.
Crust:
1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose our
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
cup (58 grams) unsalted butter
1 large egg
Filling:
11 ounces goat cheese, softened
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
cup (58 grams) butter, softened
1 teaspoon lemon zest
3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon (9 grams) all-purpose our
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
3 large eggs
cup chopped fresh basil
cup chopped fresh chives
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
Garnish: fresh baby arugula, blanched sugar
snap peas
1. For crust: In the work bowl of a food
processor, pulse flour and salt 3 or 4 times or
just until combined. Add cream cheese and
butter, and pulse 5 or 6 times or until crumbly.
Add egg, and process until dough forms a ball
and pulls away from sides of bowl. Turn out
dough, and shape into a disk. Wrap in plastic
wrap, and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough to
a 10-inch circle. Transfer to a lightly greased
8-inch springform pan, gently pressing into
bottom and up sides. Trim and discard excess
dough. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or
until ready to use.
3. Preheat oven to 350.
4. For filling: In a large bowl, beat goat cheese,
cream cheese, butter, lemon zest, lemon juice,
flour, and salt with a mixer at medium speed
until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add eggs, one
at a time, beating just until combined after
each addition. Stir in herbs. Pour batter into
prepared crust.
5. Bake until center is set and crust is browned,
about 30 minutes. Turn oven of, and leave
cheesecake in oven with door closed for
15 minutes. Remove from oven. Run a knife
around edges of cheesecake to loosen from sides
of pan. (Do not remove sides of pan.) Let cool in
pan for about 1 hour. Serve warm or refrigerated.
Garnish with arugula and peas, if desired.
CHEESE AND ROSEMARY
BRIOCHE
Makes 2 (9-inch) loaves
We love this recipe for sandwich bread or an
afternoon snack. Though the recipe calls for a
double-cream cheese, we especially love this with
the ultra-rich and creamy Saint Andr triple-
cream cows milk cheesepure decadence.
1 recipe Basic Brioche dough (recipe on
page 37)
10 ounces double-cream cheese, cubed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water
1. Make Basic Brioche dough as directed
through adding butter in step 3. Place dough
on a lightly oured surface, and fold in cheese
and rosemary. Continue following Basic
Brioche recipe to let dough rise.
2. After dough has doubled in size, lightly
grease 2 (9-inch) loaf pans.
3. Divide dough into 6 equal pieces. On a
lightly oured surface, roll each piece into
12-inch-long pieces. Braid 3 pieces of dough
very tightly. Place in 1 prepared pan, folding
ends of braid under to t in pan. Repeat
procedure with remaining 3 pieces of dough
and second pan. Cover and let stand in a warm,
draft-free place (75) until doubled in size,
1 to 1 hours.
4. Preheat oven to 350.
5. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
1 tablespoon water. Brush egg wash over dough.
Bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Cover with
foil, and bake until a wooden pick inserted in
center comes out clean, 15 to 20 minutes
more. Serve warm.
CAMEMBERT STRAWS
Makes 24 chees straws
Soft and creamy, Camembert is a surface-ripened
cow's milk cheese with a thin edible rind. It was
rst made in the late 1700s in Camembert,
Normandy, in northern France. For this recipe,
we used the earthy Herv Mons Camembert, a
cheese thats delicately salty and smooth.
4 ounces Camembert cheese, cubed and
softened
cup (70 grams) all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons (45 grams) unsalted butter,
softened
3 tablespoons (27 grams) cornstarch
teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
teaspoon ground black pepper
1. In the work bowl of a food processor,
combine all ingredients. Pulse until dough just
comes together. Turn out dough, and shape
into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate
until rm, about 1 hour. (Dough can be
refrigerated for up to 4 days.)
2. Preheat oven to 375. Line a baking sheet
with parchment paper.
3. On a heavily oured surface, roll dough into a
12x6-inch rectangle, about inch thick. Cut dough
into 6x-inch strips, and place on prepared pan;
twist ends in opposite directions to make spirals.
Bake until brown and crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Let cool
completely on pan before serving.
BRIE EN CROTE
Makes 1 (9-inch) wheel
Brie is a soft cows milk cheese with a thin, edible
white rind. This twist on baked Briea cocktail
party classicis best served warm straight from
the oven. We used the Moses Sleeper Brie-style
cheese from Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont for its
buttery, yet clean, avor.
1 (9-inch) wheel of Brie
9 thin slices prosciutto
1 (14-ounce) package puf pastry*
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water
Apricot preserves
1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Wrap Brie in prosciutto. On a lightly oured
surface, roll puf pastry to a 10-inch circle.
Place wrapped Brie in middle of circle, and fold
edges in neatly.
3. In a small bowl, beat egg and 1 tablespoon
water. Brush pastry with egg wash. Refrigerate
for 30 minutes. Brush with egg wash again, and
refrigerate 30 minutes more.
4. Preheat oven to 425.
5. Using a sharp knife, cut a crosshatch pattern
in pastry, but dont cut through pastry. Bake until
pufed and golden brown, about 22 minutes.
Serve warm with apricot preserves, if desired.
*We used Dufour Pastry Kitchens Classic Puf Pastry. b
 bake the book
baking
with the
Seasons
Yossy AreFI s Sweeter off the Vine offers
seasonal dessert recipes featuring fruits
at their peak of ripeness
BY SOPHIA JONES

Yossy Arefi uses nature as her baking guide year-round. In her debut
cookbook, Sweeter off the Vine (Ten Speed Press; available March 22), the
photographer, stylist, and food blogger demonstrates how to utilize
the freshest ingredients available with more than 70 recipes, divided
into four sections by season. Here, we chat with Yossy, who formerly
worked as the baker and cake decorator at New York Citys Alices Tea
Cup on the Upper East Side, about her decision to singlehandedly
write and photograph images for the book (wow!), her passions for
baking and photography, and how she combined the two with her
award-winning food blog, Apt. 2B Baking Co.

Has it always been important to you to document the food you make?
Ive always had an interest in photography. It was something I had
done as a hobby since high school when growing up in Seattle,
Washington. Before I moved to New York City in 2007, I didnt know
food photography and food styling could be a job, or that it was an
industry I could get into. When blogging became popular, I realized
I could combine my love for photography and my love for baking.
Towards the end of my time working in the restaurant industry in
2010, I started my blog Apt. 2B Baking Co., and began getting offers for
photography or recipe-related freelance work. That allowed me to be
able to leave the restaurant in 2012, and switch gears into a different
career path.

How does taking pictures of food differ from photographing other

subjects for you?
For me, still life and food are very calming to photograph because I can
take my time to adjust to the light and find the perfect angle. When
I am shooting moving subjects or people, those perfect moments
happen quickly and are gone in a flash. With food, I have time to stop,
think, and conceptualizeunless its something time sensitive like ice
cream. Then I have to be ready to go as soon as its scooped!
Photo courtesy Yossy Arefi
99 bake from scratch
Photo courtesy Glen Allsop
 What is your favorite spring ingredient to bake with?
Rhubarb. It has a naturally tart flavor that is really tasty with
vanilla, ginger, and all kinds of citrus flavors.

Theres something special about baking from the comfort

of your own home. Your blog is named after your New York
City apartment. How does baking in your own kitchen
foster your creativity?
Working and baking from home allows me to work at my
own pace. Sometimes that pace is really fast, and sometimes
its slower and more methodical. When Im developing
recipes and figuring out new flavors, having time and space
in the comfort of my home is nice.

What is your favorite baking tool you cant live without?

My maple dowel rolling pin from the housewares department
at Zabars on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. My favorite
kind of toolsimple, inexpensive, and gets the job done.

Your father is Iranian. Did you eat Iranian food growing

up, and how does that affect how you bake today?
It definitely affects how I bake. Iranian food is all about
balancing rich ingredients with lighter ingredients. For
example, we eat rich meat dishes with a plain, tart yogurt.
When baking, I often use citrus zest and juice to balance out
sweeter flavors. I strive to make all the things I cook well-
balanced.

You chose to write and photograph Sweeter off the Vine

entirely by yourself. Whats it like to work independently
through the whole process of cooking, styling, and
photographing the recipes you create?
I did all the baking, styling, and photography (and most of
the dishes) for the book on my own. The volume of work was
overwhelming at timestesting five or six recipes a day, then
dealing with a document thats over 40,000 words with over
100 photographsbut its also the most rewarding thing Ive
ever done. When I got my first physical copy of Sweeter off the
Vine in the mail, it was such a great feeling to hold what I
created with the team at Ten Speed.
But I also love to collaborate, and when Im able to focus
on one part of the whole processjust preparing the food or
just photographing itthe work is different. I dont have to
worry about keeping all parts of the process in line.

Photo courtesy Yossy Arefi

101 bake from scratch

What is your biggest baking success? Pistachio Pound Cake with Strawberries
in Lavendar Sugar
I baked desserts for a friends wedding a couple of summers page 103
ago, and I had never baked at home on such a large scale
before. I made wedding cakes when I worked at the bakery,
but I had never baked for that many people from a home
kitchen at once. I made these tarts filled with mascarpone,
pastry cream, and fresh raspberries with big fluffy pillows
of meringue on top. They looked so beautiful all lined up
together on the dessert table.

What is your go-to baked good?

Pieno question. Fruit pies are so beautiful and tastya
perfect combination of crisp, buttery crust and sweet, tart
fruit. Dont forget the ice cream!

How has your blog, Apt. 2B Baking Co., developed over the
past few years?
Blogging has become a much bigger industry than when I
started my site. I used to consider it to be more of a hobby, but
now its definitely part of my job. I devote a lot of time, effort,
and energy to making interesting content that will stand out,
which can be hard because there are so many blogs now. Even
though I have been at it for a long time, I still want to make
interesting content people are drawn to.
I think the visuals of my blog are different from whats out
there. I still shoot all my photography for Apt. 2B Baking Co.
solely with film, which is pretty rare. Thats been important
to me because its not always possible to shoot my professional
work with film for a number of reasons.

What is your favorite thing to listen to while baking?

Podcasts. Im a big fan of NPRs Fresh Air series and Radio
Lab. Theres a new podcast called Reply All I recently started
listening to and love.

How would you like for Sweeter off the Vine to inspire
those who bake from it?
I hope readers are inspired to bake with the seasons. There
are so many beautiful things in every season, even in
winter, to bake with. I hope theyre inspired to visit their local
market to see whats fresh, and go home to make some
delicious dessert.

Photo courtesy Yossy Arefi

spring 2016 102

 Recipes From the Pages of
sweeter off the vine
RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED , WITH PERMISSION , FROM
SWEETER OFF THE VINE (TEN SPEED PRESS, 2016).
PISTACHIO POUND CAKE WITH
STRAWBERRIES IN LAVENDER
SUGAR
Makes 1 (9x5-inch) cake
The rich flavor and beautiful color of pistachios
make them the perfect addition to this classic
pound cake.
Pistachio Pound Cake:
1 cup (130 grams) shelled pistachios
1 cups (195 grams) all-purpose flour
teaspoon baking powder
teaspoon salt
cup (175 grams) unsalted butter, softened
1 cups (250 grams) granulated sugar
3 large eggs, at room temperature
teaspoon vanilla extract
teaspoon almond extract
cup (120ml) whole milk, at room
temperature
Strawberries:
1 pounds (675 grams) strawberries
cup (50 grams) granulated sugar, or less if
your berries are particularly sweet
teaspoon organic lavender buds
vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds
scraped from the pod
To serve:
Lightly sweetened whipped cream
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven, and
preheat to 325F (165C/Gas Mark 3). Grease
and flour a 9x5x3-inch loaf pan.
2. To make the cake: Grind the pistachios in a
food processor just until they resemble flour. Be
careful to not grind them into pistachio butter,
though that would be delicious. Add the flour,
baking powder, and salt to the bowl of the food
processor. Pulse until combined.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment, or in a large bowl with an
electric mixer, beat the butter on medium-high
speed until smooth; then, with the mixer still
running, slowly stream in the sugar. Cream the
butter and sugar together until very light and
flufy, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a
time, beating for 30 seconds after each addition.
Occasionally stop the mixer, and scrape down
103 bake from scratch
the sides of the bowl to ensure even mixing. Add
the vanilla and almond extract.
4. With the mixer on low speed, alternate adding
the our mixture and the milk to the batter in
3 additions, mixing until just combined. Finish
mixing the batter by hand with a rubber spatula.
Make sure to scrape the bottom and sides of the
bowl to ensure even mixing.
5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan,
smooth the top, and bake until the cake is
golden brown and a wooden pick inserted into
the center comes out clean, 45 to 55 minutes.
Cool for 15 minutes in the pan, then remove
the cake to a rack to cool completely.
6. To make the strawberries: Combine the
sugar, lavender, and vanilla seeds in a mortar,
and grind with a pestle until the lavender
is broken up into ne bits and the sugar is
fragrant. Alternately, this can be done in a food
processor. Hull and slice the strawberries in half
if they are small, in quarters if they are larger;
combine the sliced strawberries and sugar in a
bowl and stir gently. Let the berries macerate
for at least 15 minutes at room temperature
before serving.
7. To serve: Slice the cooled cake into thick
pieces, and top each slice with a generous
spoonful of berries and their juices. Top with
whipped cream. Extra cake keeps in an airtight
container at room temperature for 3 days.
CHERRY AND RHUBARB SLAB PIE
Makes 1 (18x13-inch) pie
My ideal cherry pie is chock full of sour cherries,
but their short season and limited availability
sometimes make them difficult to nd. In this slab
pie, I combined early season sweet cherries with
rhubarb to mimic the lovely sweet-and-tart avor
of sour cherries.
2 recipes (1,440 grams) All-Butter Pie
Crust (recipe follows), each batch shaped
into a single rectangle rather than 2 disks
1 vanilla bean
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
teaspoon orange zest
cup (32 grams) cornstarch
Pinch salt
2 pounds (900 grams) rhubarb, leaves removed
and stalks chopped into -inch pieces
1 pound (450 grams) sweet cherries, pitted,
halved if large
Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons)
1 large egg, lightly beaten, for egg wash
2 tablespoons turbinado sugar
1. Begin by rolling out one of the pieces of
dough between two lightly oured sheets of
parchment paper to a roughly 21x16-inch
rectangle. It is a big piece of dough, so it will
take a little muscle to roll out. The rectangle
does not have to be perfectly shaped, but if the
dough cracks or breaks, repair the breaks with a
bit of dough pulled from the edges of the sheet.
If at any time the dough seems very soft or
sticky, slide it, along with the parchment paper,
onto a baking sheet and stick the whole thing
in the refrigerator for a couple of minutes.
Remove the parchment paper, and carefully t
the dough into an 18x13x1-inch baking sheet
(half sheet pan). Press the dough into the
corners and let the edges hang over the sides.
2. Roll out the remaining piece of dough
between two oured pieces of parchment
paper into a rectangle about 18x13x1-inch.
Transfer the lined half sheet pan and the dough
sheet to the refrigerator to chill while you
prepare the rest of the pie.
3. To make the lling: Use the tip of a knife to
split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape out
the seeds; reserve the pod for another use. In
a large bowl, combine the sugar, orange zest,
and vanilla seeds. Use your ngers to rub the
zest and vanilla seeds into the sugar until well
distributed. Stir in the cornstarch and salt,
then add the rhubarb, cherries, and lemon
juice. Toss gently to combine. Add a bit more
cornstarch (up to 1 tablespoon) if the cherries
are particularly juicy.
4. Remove the dough-lined pan from the
refrigerator, and spread the lling evenly over
the top. Remove the parchment paper from
the second dough sheet, and place it on top of
the lling. Fold the bottom edges up and over
the top, and press the edges of both crusts
together to seal. Refrigerate the pie until the
crust is rm, about 20 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the
oven, and preheat to 400F (200C/Gas Mark 6).
6. Brush the top crust with the egg wash, and
sprinkle the turbinado sugar over the top. Use
a small knife to cut a few vents in the top crust,
then bake the pie until it is deep golden brown
and the juices are bubbling, 40 to 45 minutes.
Cool the pie to room temperature before
slicing and serving. This pie is best served the
day it is baked, but it will keep for a couple of
days wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated.
The pastry will soften as the pie sits.
All-Butter Pie Crust
Makes about 25 ounces (720 grams), enough for 1 double-
crust or 2 single-crust pies

I am partial to an all-butter crust because I think

it tastes the best. The key to flaky pie crust is to Cherry and
keep the ingredients nice and coldespecially Rhubarb Slab Pie
the butter and waterand to work quickly and
intentionally. The small amount of apple cider
vinegar in this recipe helps tenderize the dough by
preventing the gluten in the flour from forming
long strands, making the dough tough. I like to mix
pie crust with my hands rather than a food processor
or pastry blender because I can control the exact size
and shape of the butter pieces for the flakiest results.

2 cups (340 grams) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (255 grams) very
cold unsalted butter
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
8 tablespoons (120ml) ice water

1. Whisk the flour and salt together in a large

bowl, cut the butter into -inch cubes, and add
the apple cider vinegar to the ice water.
2. Working quickly, add the butter to the flour,
and toss to coat. Then use your fingers or the
palms of your hands to press each cube of butter Marie-Danielles
into a flat sheet. Keep tossing the butter in the Apple Tart
flour as you go to ensure that each butter piece page 105
is coated with flour. The idea is to create flat,
thin shards of butter, ranging from about the size
of a dime to about the size of a quarter.
3. If at any time the butter seems warm or soft,
briefly refrigerate the bowl.
4. Sprinkle about 6 tablespoons of the icy cold
vinegar-water mixture over the flour mixture.
Use a gentle hand or wooden spoon to stir the
water into the flour until just combined. If the
dough seems dry, add more cold water a couple
of teaspoons at a time. You have added enough
water when you can pick up a handful of the
dough and easily squeeze it together without it
falling apart.
5. Press the dough together, then split it in
half. Form each half into a disk, and wrap each
disk in plastic wrap. Refrigerate the dough for
at least 2 hours before using, but preferably
overnight. Keeps for up to 3 months in the
freezer wrapped in a double layer of plastic
wrap and a layer of foil. Thaw in the refrigerator
before using.

spring 2016 104

MARIE-DANIELLES APPLE TART
Makes 1 (15x10-inch) tart
I learned how to make this supremely simple and
surprisingly tasty tart from my friend Amelie, who
in turn learned how to make it from her mother,
Marie-Danielle. I know the lineage goes back
further than that, but I associate it with those
two lovely women, so Marie-Danielle gets the
credit here. Ive modified the recipe slightly to use
homemade spelt puf pastry instead of traditional
puf pastry.
4 large Granny Smith or Gala apples, about
2 pounds (900 grams)
recipe (450 grams) Spelt Quick Puf
Pastry (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons all-purpose our
6 tablespoons (75 grams) vanilla sugar or
granulated sugar, divided
Pinch salt
1 large egg, lightly beaten, for egg wash
1 tablespoon turbinado sugar
Crme Frache (recipe follows) or lightly
sweetened whipped cream, to serve
1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Peel, core, and slice the apples into -inch
slices. On a lightly oured surface, roll the puf
pastry into a 15x10-inch rectangle. Trim the
edges so they are more or less straight and
even. Transfer the pastry to the baking sheet,
and sprinkle the our and 2 tablespoons of
granulated sugar over the top, leaving a 1-inch
border around the edges. Arrange the apple
slices on top of the dough so the edges slightly
overlap, while leaving a 1-inch border around
the edges. Sprinkle the remaining 4 tablespoons
granulated sugar and a pinch of salt over the
apples. Fold the edges of the dough up and
over the apples, and press gently to seal at the
corners. Pop the baking sheet into the freezer
for about 15 minutes or until the dough is rm.
2. Position a rack in the center of the oven, and
preheat to 425F (220C/Gas Mark 7). When
you are ready to bake, brush the dough with
egg wash, and sprinkle with turbinado sugar.
3. Bake the tart, turning the pan halfway
through baking, until the apples are soft and
browning around the edges and the pastry is
deep golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Cut
into slices, and serve with Crme Frache or
whipped cream. This tart is best the day its
made, although it makes a ne breakfast the
next morning.
Spelt Quick Puf Pastry
Makes about 3 pounds (1,350 grams) pastry, enough for
3 large tarts or lots and lots of little ones
The method to make this quick puf pastry is a lot
less involved than traditional puf pastry, but the
results are still spectacularly aky.
3 cups (680 grams) cold unsalted butter
2 cups (280 grams) all-purpose our
2 cups (255 grams) spelt our
2 teaspoons salt
1 cup (240ml) cold water
1. Cut the cold butter into -inch cubes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer tted with the
paddle attachment or in a large bowl, combine
the ours and salt. Add the butter all at once,
and mix on low speed until the butter is well
coated with our and beginning to break up
into smaller pieces. If working by hand, use a
pastry blender for this step. Add the water all
at once, and mix for about 15 seconds or until
the water is evenly incorporated. At this point
the dough may look like a crumbly mess: dont
worry about it.
2. Turn the mixture out onto a clean, lightly
oured work surface, and do your best to pat
it into a rectangle about 1 inch thick with your
hands. Use a bench scraper to fold the right
third of the dough to the center. Fold the left
third of the dough over the other two thirds,
like a letter. Turn the dough 90 degrees. You
have completed your rst turn. If the dough is
sticking to the work surface, lightly our it, but
take care not to add too much more our to
the dough.
3. Press the dough back into a rectangle
roughly 1 inch thick and repeat the process
two more times. The dough will seem crumbly,
Photo courtesy Yossy Arefi

and may fall apart a bit at first, but it will come
together eventually. If at any point the bits of
butter seem soft, slide the dough onto a baking
sheet, and refrigerate for a few minutes until
the butter has hardened up a bit. By the end
of the first three turns, the dough will begin to
resemble a cohesive mass.
Crme Frache
Makes about 1 cup (225 grams)
Crme frache is a tart French-style sour cream.
It is a bit more subtle in flavor than American sour
cream, and I love to use it both as a garnish and
as an ingredient in sweet and savory cooking.
1 cup (240ml) heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons buttermilk
1. Stir the cream and buttermilk together in
a glass container. Cover and let sit at room
temperature for 12 to 24 hours or until the
cream has thickened to the consistency of soft
sour cream and has a tart, tangy flavor. Store
the crme frache in the refrigerator, covered,
for up to 7 days.
LEMON VERBENA OLIVE OIL CAKE
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake
As evidenced by its name, lemon verbena has a
citrusy flavor that pairs exceptionally well with
lemon zest and fruity olive oil in this cake.
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
cup loosely packed fresh lemon verbena
leaves (about 20)
1 cups (225 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
teaspoon baking soda
teaspoon salt
cup (175ml) fruity olive oil
cup (55 grams) unsalted butter, melted
and cooled
1 teaspoon lemon zest
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup (240ml) whole-milk kefir or
buttermilk, at room temperature
2 tablespoons confectioners sugar, to finish
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven,
and preheat to 350F (180C/ Gas Mark 4).
Butter a 9-inch cake pan at least 2 inches tall,
Lemon Verbena
Olive Oil Cake
line it with parchment paper, and butter that,
too. Dust the pan and paper with flour.
2. Combine the sugar and lemon verbena in
the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel
blade or in a mortar. Pulse or grind the sugar
and lemon verbena until the leaves are finely
ground and the sugar is fragrant.
3. Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda,
and salt together in a small bowl.
4. In a separate bowl, whisk the lemon verbena
sugar, olive oil, melted butter, and lemon zest
together. Add the eggs and whisk for 30 more
seconds. Whisk in the kefir, then use a rubber
spatula to fold in the dry ingredients, mixing
until combined and smooth.
5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, tap
it gently on the counter to release any air
bubbles, and bake until the cake is pufed and
golden and a wooden pick inserted in the center
comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Cool
the cake in the pan on a rack for 20 minutes,
then remove the cake from the pan to cool
completely. Dust the cooled cake with a bit of
confectioners sugar just before serving, if you
like. This cake will keep in an airtight container
at room temperature for up to 3 days. b
spring 2016 106
origin of a classic

Tarte Tatin

This upside-down
caramelized apple dessert
is as French as apple pie
BY JENNIFER V. COLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES
I In the heart of the Loire Valley, about 100 miles south of Paris, the hillsides
are swathed in Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Cabernet Franc vines. Broad
rivers snake their way through the region. Immaculately restored chteaux
anchor tiny towns from Blois to Chenonceaumajestic reminders of bygone days. Its
here, in this verdant slice of the Hexagon, that one of the most universally loved and
recognized of all French desserts was born: Tarte Tatin.

A Tarte Tatin is simply an upside-down apple tart. But thats like saying Versailles was
a house. Buttery, slightly salty pastry dough spotlights apples cooked to a rich, deep
amber. Its modest in its simplicity. Yet, when eaten warm from the oven, this elegantly
rustic dessert becomes deeply personala mouth epiphany.

As with many things of brilliance, the creation was actually an

accident. In the late 19th century, sisters Stphanie and Caroline
Tatin ran the 14-room Htel Tatin in Lamotte-Beuvron, a small
village on the banks of the Sologne River. Stphanie, the eldest,
ran the kitchen, turning out meals for the guests who frequented this inn across from
the train station. And while she was no putz in the kitchen, she had something of a
reputation for being scatterbrained.

spring 2016 108

One day, during the
hunting season, it seems
she was particularly distracted
and forgot about the apples she was
cooking. They went just a touch too farnearly burnt
and caramelized in the pan. In a panic and inadvertent flash
create this tart of near-mythical proportions. In reality,
of genius, she topped the apples with pte brise and put
Mr. Vaudable was born in 1902 and the sisters stepped away
the entire pan in the oven to bake off. As any cook knows,
from the hotel in 1906. But why let truth get in the way of a
theres no reason to throw out something you might be
good story?
able to rescue. Stphanie did not accept defeat. When it
came out, she flipped the dessert onto a plate, and it was an
The sisters never actually called it a Tarte Tatin, instead
immediate hit. Mistake. Invention. A classic was born.
referring to it as a Tarte Solognote in deference to the
As travelers came and went, word of this tart spread river that defined the town. It was food writer Curnonsky,
throughout France, reaching Paris and all of its culinary known as the Prince of Gastronomy, who tapped it Tatin.
majesty. The story goes that Louis Vaudable, the owner And Maxims did pay tribute to the dessert, putting it on
of Maxims took one bite and was smitten. Some even go its menu as La Tarte des Demoiselles Tatin (the tart of two
so far to say he sent a spy to the hotel to watch Stphanie unmarried women named Tatin).

The hotel, now run by the Caill family since 1968,

continues to serve Tarte Tatin. And on any
given day theres no shortage of pilgrims
following their sugar addiction to
tiny Lamotte-Beuvron for a bite
at the source.

Historical photos courtesy Htel Tatin

TARTE TATIN
Makes 1 (8-inch) tart

Adapted from the original Tarte Tatin recipe from

Htel Tatin in Lamotte-Beuvron, France

Dough:
1 cups (175 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (4 grams) sugar
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
4 to 8 tablespoons ice water

Filling:
5 apples (Gala, Braeburn, and Golden
Delicious are great choices, but almost any
kind will do)
Juice of 1 lemon
5 tablespoons (60 grams) sugar, divided
4 tablespoons (57 grams) unsalted butter

1. For dough: In the work bowl of a food

processor, pulse together flour, sugar, and salt.
Add butter, and pulse until mixture is crumbly.
With processor running, add water in a slow,
steady stream just until dough comes together.
Turn out dough, and shape into a disk. Wrap in
plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
On a lightly floured surface, roll dough to a
9-inch circle. Wrap in plastic wrap, and return
to the refrigerator for an additional 20 minutes.
2. For filling: Peel, quarter, and core the apples.
Cut each quarter in half lengthwise. Toss with
lemon juice and 1 tablespoon (12 grams) sugar.
Set aside for 20 minutes. Drain excess juice.
3. Preheat oven to 425.
4. Melt butter in an 8-inch cast-iron skillet.
Add remaining 4 tablespoons (48 grams) sugar,
and cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture
becomes a light caramel color. Remove pan
from heat, and arrange apple slices along
the bottom. Place extra slices neatly on top.
Return the pan to the stovetop, and cook
over medium-high heat until the apples begin
to turn golden brown and the caramel that
bubbles up between them is a dark amber color,
15 to 25 minutes. Remove from heat, and let
cool 5 minutes.
5. Remove pastry disk from the refrigerator,
and cut several 1-inch slits to release steam.
Place pastry on top of hot apples, tucking it
in along the edges, being extra careful not to
burn your fingertips. Bake until golden brown,
about 20 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes before
inverting onto a cake plate. b

spring 2016 110

spotlight on...

battleof the
BAKERS
Three American bakers will travel to Paris
to represent America in whats been called
the Olympic Games of Baking , one of the most
prestigious baking competitions on the planet :
La Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie . Game on .
BY SOPHIA JONES

Just like every baker who has been selected to compete on the Bread
Bakers Guild Team USA before them, Nicholas Scott Giusto, Jeffrey
de Leon, and Jacob Baggenstos each endured a series of preliminary
tryouts to prove they have the skill and endurance required to
represent America on an international stage in the largest competition
of their craft. In February 2016 (as we went to press), the three men
were getting ready to compete as Bread Bakers Guild Team USA
in La Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, or the Bakery World Cup.
Over the course of the four-day competition held in Paris, France,
12 international teams, with three bakers each, will wear their countries
colors as they demonstrate their technical abilitiesin both taste and
presentationto vie for the world title.

Since the first Bakery World Cup in 1994, the Bread Bakers Guild of
America has sponsored some of the finest American bakers from the
past two decades on Team USA. The Cup has four themed competitions:
Baguette and Bread of the World, Viennoiserie, Artistic Creation, and for the
first time in 2016, Savory Baking. Now in its eighth round, the Cup has
stayed true to its original purpose of fostering goodwill and innovation in
artisan baking, while advancing the quality of bread on an international
scale. Despite the language barriers, differing customs and beliefs, and
thousands of miles that separate Team USA from its opponents, each
competitor shares a common bond that is as pure as it is universal, and the
foundation on which the Bakery World Cup was built: a love of baking.

111 bake from scratch

 BAKER: Jacob Baggenstos
COMPETING IN: Artistic Creation
resources
The Art of the Crumb
CURRENT POSITION: Pastry Chef at Bakery Nouveau, Capitol Pages 27-34
Hill location in Seattle, Washington. Petit Beurre Set from Mason Cash & Co.,
masoncash.co.uk.
ON THE CUP: To be a part of pushing the bread-baking envelope,
in the midst of so many other fantastic bakers, is the opportunity The Essential Brioche
Pages 35-44
of a lifetime. Bakers are always such open and friendly people, Im very much looking Pillivuyt Ptisserie Round Cake and Brioche
forward to meeting all of the people gathering for the show. Getting to do all of this Bundle and Pillivuyt Ptisserie Muffin Molds,
food52.com.
in a city like Paris is the icing on the cake, so to speak.
FAVORITE FRENCH DESSERT: Well-executed classics like mille feuille. Simplicity Make Mine a Macaron
Pages 45-48
and complexity in perfect balance. Silpat Non-Stick Baking Mat, 609-395-0219,
silpat.com.

BAKER: Nicholas Nicky Giusto A Taste of Provence

COMPETING IN: Baguette & Specialty Breads
CURRENT POSITION: Owner and contributor to bread program
at Evas Bakery, Salt Lake City, Utah; also develops bread programs
and holds workshops for The Central Milling Company in
Logan, Utah.
WHILE IN PARIS: After the competition, Im looking forward to spending time
with familymy wife and some of her family are from Paris. Im also looking forward
to sinking my teeth into Christophe Vasseurs pain des amis [at Du Pain et Des Ides]. My
first taste of this bread was a game-changer for me years ago.
FAVORITE FRENCH DESSERT: My favorite French dessert is not really a dessert;
its more of a treat. A properly made canel. Have you had one? If you have, I don't
need to explain why. The crunch, the silkiness of the crumb, the sweet, the savory
it's simply the best.
BAKER: Jeffrey de Leon
Competing In: Viennoiserie
CURRENT POSITION: Farmshop Group Pastry Chef, Santa
Monica, California.
ON THE CUP: The honor of being a part of Team USA, for me,
Pages 61-68
Gien France Fliets Bleus Dinner Plate
from Replacements, Ltd., 800-737-5223,
replacements.com. Vintage Floral Jacquard Table
Runner in grey, Bone Handled Cheese Knife
and Spreader, and Copper Beverage Tub from
Williams-Sonoma, 877-812-6235, williams-
sonoma.com.
French Connection
Page 79
Photos courtesy Nick Simonite for Bakery
Lorraine, Ty Milford for St. Honor Boulangerie.
Page 80
Photo courtesy Alana Hale for Le Marais.
Page 81
Photo courtesy Misha Hettie for Bakery
Lorraine.
Page 82
Photos courtesy Mark Woods for Ins Ptisserie;
Le Marais; Paul Strabbing for La Fournette.
Page 83
Photos courtesy Le Marais; Mark Petko for La
Farm Bakery.
Page 84
Photo courtesy Nick Simonite for Bakery
Lorraine.

stems from the idea of maintaining the legacy of great American Baking with Fromage
bakers whose roots have grown deep for generations. When I look back at my time as Pages 93-98
Belle Chevre goat cheese, 256-732-4801,
a young cook, I saw my chefs go through this process. I never thought that I would bellechevre.com. Saint Andr Triple Cream cows
have the distinction of competing in this arena for the title of World Champion. milk cheese and Herv Mons Camembert from
Whole Foods Market, wholefoodsmarket.com.
Collaborating with this team of amazing bakers and mentors has led me to believe Moses Sleeper brie-style cheese from Jasper
that we have no choice but to pursue greatness. Hill Farm, 802-533-2566, jasperhillfarm.com.

FAVORITE FRENCH DESSERT: A classic crme brle, a basic custard that, Battle of the Bakers
in all of its simplicity, is very difficult to do to perfection. And when you find that Pages 111-112
2012 Bakery World Cup photos courtesy of
sweet vanilla cream hidden under the crisp shatter of the molten sugar shell, there's T. Caron and AB3C; photo of Jacob Baggenstos
nowhere you'd rather be than right there, in that moment, enjoying every last bit." b pastries courtesy of Clare Barboza and Bakery
Nouveau; 2016 Team USA photos courtesy of
Jerod Pfeffer and the Bread Bakers Guild of
To see how Team USA fares in the 2016 Cup visit europain.com or coupelouislesafre.com. America.
You can also view clips of past competitions at louislesafrecup-webtv.com.

spring 2016 112

our obsession

Pain au Chocolat (pronounced pan-oh-sho-koh-lah)

o What It Is Why We Love It

Croissant + chocolate = happiness. No matter
A pain au chocolat, often simply called a chocolate croissant, is a viennoiserie sweet roll
how many you eat in a lifetime, theres true
thats made the same as a croissant with yeast-leavened laminated dough. The magic
joy each time you get a perfect bite of flaky
comes from the rich, dark chocolate that runs through the center of it. The best are
crust, supple layers of buttery bread, and
tender, pliable, and warm enough for the chocolate to ooze a little as you bite into it.
melt-on-your-tongue dark chocolate.

Rpublique
Los Angeles, California
Margarita Manzke stocks the pastry cases
with edible art at this bakery-by-day/
restaurant-by-night. Dark chocolate is
tucked into a tight coil of laminated dough
that practically sighs as you bite into it.
republiquela.com
E Where to Find It
Rustica Bakery Common Bond
Minneapolis, Minnesota Houston, Texas
The caramelized outer shell snapsnot Known for elegant renditions of European
crumblesas you sink your teeth into it. baked goodsbrioche, kugelhopf, croissants
Chewy, buttery layers surround generous this bright bakeshop produces pain au
chocolate ganache that runs end-to-end of chocolat so airy that a cross-section looks
the pastry. like a piece of honeycomb.
rusticabakery.com wearecommonbond.com

Show us your obsession by using #thebakefeedobsession in your social media photos.

 From the Publishers of Bake From Scratch

NEW ORDER your copy TODAY!

hoffmanmediastore.com/castiron 800-361-8059

Rec e ideas using your favorite pans

inside this issue Flavorfu breakfasts to brighten your mornings
Delicious als and desserts to make today