Factors affecting yarn strength

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Factors that affect yarn strength are
Staple length

Longer staple cotton gives higher strength and this is true even in case
of synthetic staple fibre such as nylon and terelene. Low twist factors will
give stronger yarn is case of longest fibre.

Fibre fineness

Fine fibre gives strong yarn compared to coarse fibres which are spun
into same given count of yarn. This is due to the fact that more number of
fibres in the cross-section and also increased internal friction provided by the
higher number of fibres in the cross section of the yarn. Hence the result is
higher yarn strength

Fibre strength

Logically speaking fine fibre result in providing strong yarn but the
paradoxical statement of Dr. Balls states that, weak and fine fibres produce
stronger yarn. In the Case of cotton fibre, fibres will have longer length and
hence more number of fine fibre can be accumulated in the same cross-
section and such as strength of individual fibre is of no significance.
Therefore yarn strength is the strength of group of fibres.

Twist

For a single spun yarn, increases in twist gives a higher strength up to

a certain limit and any twist than this optimum will decrease the strength.
The amount of twist for maximum strength depends on the twist angle and
for any given fibre the twist angle for maximum strength remains constant
over a range of yarns.

Evenness

Evenness in the yarn or uniformity in the spun yarn influences the yarn
strength. Greater uniformity shows increase in strength and uneven yarn will
show reduction in strength. Investigation has proved that there is a very
close relationship between yarn strength and yarn evenness.

Fibre length variation and distribution

 Fibre length variation and distribution will also cause the variation.
When spinning cotton, containing more number of short fibres, the resultant
yarn will have lower strength. The presence of short fibres, the resultant yarn
will have lower strength. The present of short fibres influence, to a very great
extent, the yarn strength. Therefore limitations have to be introduced while
mixing such fibres.

Fibre finish

The man-made fibres, especially synthetic fibres, are treated with

several chemicals to change the processing character. The type and amount
of chemicals will have a definite influence on the strength properties of yarn
and also on the processing characteristics of staple fibres.

General factors

There are many other variables which also influence the strength
property of yarn. The chemical treatment given to the yarn after spinning
such as sizing etc will either increase the strength or decrease the strength.
Some of the chemicals tender the material and there will be loss in strength.
Apart from this chemical treatment, the position of individual fibres in the
characteristic yarn will also affect the tensile property since the building up
of a spun yarn is a resultant factor of drafting and twisting. The twist is
dynamic property. The twist in the yarn is stabilized only when the dynamic
balance also influences the tensile property.

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Fabric strength

The strength tests covered in this section include tensile, tear, seam and burst strength. These mechanical
properties arc important for all textile users including fabric processors, garment manufacturers, designers and
customers.

Tensile strength

Measurement of tensile stress-strain properties is the most common mechanical measurement on fabrics. It is used
to determine the behavior of a sample while under an axial stretching load. From this, the breaking load and
elongation can be obtained. The principle of the tensile strength test is simple: a test piece is held in two or more
places and extended until it breaks. The tensile properties measured arc generally considered arbitrary rather than
absolute. Results depend on specimen geometry, the fibre type and arrangement, as well as the fabric structure.
Break modes

There are two common types of tensile breaks: sharp break (Fig. 4.1) and percentage break (Fig. 4.2). A sharp
break is a sudden drop in load. This test is normally called pull to break. A percentage break is generally shown
as a gradual reduction in the load from its maximum as further extension is applied. A percentage drop from
maximum load is often used to define an end point or break point. This test is normally called pull to yield and

can have all of the same setup parameters as a pull to break. Modern tensile test instruments can be set up in both
of the break modes. Most test methods report both maximum load and load at break, as the breaking strength is
not always the maximum strength for the material, especially for soft and elastic fabrics

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abrasion resistance is a property which allows a material to resist wear. Materials which are
abrasion resistant are useful for situations in which mechanical wearing and damage can occur,
including delicate applications such as the construction of space shuttle components. Numerous
companies manufacture abrasion resistant products for a variety of applications, including
products which can be custom fabricated to meet the needs of specific users.

When a product has abrasion resistance, it will resist erosion caused by scraping, rubbing, and
other types of mechanical wear. This allows the material to retain its integrity and hold its form.
This can be important when the form of a material is critical to its function, as seen when moving
parts are carefully machined for maximum efficiency. Abrasion resistant materials can be used
for both moving and fixed parts in settings where wearing could become an issue.
There are a number of ways to make a material resistant to abrasion. One option is to utilize a
special coating which creates a hardened layer over the material and resists friction. Some
materials are also naturally extremely hard, and are ideal for settings in which abrasion resistance
will be desirable. Other materials can be specifically formulated for increased hardness, as seen
in plastics facilities which manufacture abrasion resistant plastics with the use of chemicals
which harden and strengthen the plastic.

t is important to note that being abrasion resistant does not make a material abrasion proof.
Mechanical wearing will eventually cause erosion, breaking down the surface of the material and
gradually changing its shape. Natural wearing can also result in erosion. Water, for example, is a
highly efficient solvent which is capable of wearing down entire mountain ranges, and man-
made materials will likewise eventually wear down when exposed to the elements.

Depending on the process used to develop abrasion resistance in a product, abrasion resistance
can be a costly feature. If it is not strictly necessary, abrasion resistant materials may be avoided
simply because of their higher costs, with the goal of bringing down the total costs of production.
In cases where the trait could be useful, but not vital, people may weigh the cost of abrasion
resistance versus the cost of replacing materials as they wear down to determine which choice
would be better. Companies which manufacture abrasion resistant products usually publish
information about how durable their materials are, using materials testing to determine how long
these products will stay whole.

Theory of direct and indirect method of yarn numbering system

Yarn Count:
Count is a numerical value, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the yarn and
also indicate the relationship between length and weight(the mass per unit length or the length
per unit mass)of that yarn. Therefore, the concept of yarn count has been introduced which
specifies a certain ratio of length to weight.

The fineness of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear density or count. There are a
number of systems and units for expressing yarn fineness. But they are classified as follows .

Types of Yarn Count:

1. Direct Count System

2. Indirect Count System

1. Direct Count System:

The weight of a fixed length of yarn is determined. The weight per unit length is the yarn count!
The common features of aII direct count systems are the length of yarn is fixed and the weight of
yarn varies according to its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate the yarn count:

N= (Wl) / L

Where,
N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample

In brief, definition of the above Systems is as follows

1. Tex system ..........................NO. of grams per 1000 meters

2. Denier .................................No. of Grams per 9000 meters

3. Deci Tex ..............................No. of grams per 10,000 metres

4. Millitex ................................No. of milligrams per 1000 metres

5. Kilotex............................... .No. of kilograms per 1000 metres.

6. Jute count........................No. of lb per 14,400 yds

The Tex of a yarn indicates the weight in grammes of 1000 metres yarn. So that 40Tex means
1000 meters of yarn weigh 40gm.

From above discussion it is concluded that, higher the yarn number(count) coarser the yarn and
lower the number finer the yarn.

2. Indirect Count System:

The length of a fixed weight of yarn is measured. The length per unit weight is the yarn count.
The common features of all indirect count systems are the weight of yarn is fixed and the Length
of yarn varies according to its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate they are count:

N = (Lw) / Wl

Where,
N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample
w = Unit of weight of the sample.

1. Ne: No of 840 yards yarn weighing in One pound

2. Nm: No of one kilometer yarn weighing in One Kilogram

The Ne indicate show many hanks of 840 yards length weigh one English pound. So
that 32 Ne Means 32 hanks of 840yards i.e.32x840 yards length weigh one pound.

For the determination of the count of yarn, it is necessary to determine the weight of a
known length of the yarn. For taking out known lengths of yarns, a wrap-reel is used.
The length of yarn reeled off depends upon the count system used. One of the most
important requirements for a spinner is to maintain the average count and count
variation within control.

Yarn Count Variation:

The term count variation is generally used to express variation in the weight of a lea
and this is expressed as C.V.%. The number of samples and the length being
considered for count checking affects this. While assessing count variation, it is very
important to test adequate number of leas. After reeling the appropriate length of
yarn, the yarn is conditioned in the standard atmosphere for testing before it's weight
is determined.

CREASE RECOVERY
 Crease recovery is a measure of creases resistance, specified quantitatively in terms of crease
recovery angle. To measure this, the popular instrument is Shirley crease recovery tester. The
instrument consists of a circular dial which carries the clamp for holding the specimen.
Directly under the centre of the dial there is a knife edge and an index line for measuring the
recovery angle. Crease recovery is determined depending upon this recovery angle. If the
angle is 0o then recovery is zero and if the angle is 180o then recovery is full. Crease
recovery depends on the construction, twist of yarn, pressure, time etc. Usually crease
recovery is more in warp way than in weft way. This is because warp yarns are well in
quality, strength, treated with sizing, kept in more tension during weaving etc.

Jun

27

What Types of Defects Can Be Occurred On Fabric During

Weaving

Most defects in cloth occur while it is woven on the loom. Some of these fabric defects are visible, while others are
not. Again some fabric defects may be rectified during weaving and after weaving while others are not. Some
common fabric defects are given below:
1. Broken Ends:
If a warp yarn is absent in the fabric for a very short or long distance and then this fabric defect is called broken ends.

2. Broken Picks:
If a weft yarn is absent in the fabric for a very short or long width, and then this fabric defect is called broken picks.

3. Floats:
It is a kind of defect where a warp or weft yarn floats over the fabric surface for a few centimeter lengths due to
missing of interlacement of two series of yarns.

4. Weft Curling:
The weft curling is caused by inserting highly twisted, weft yarn or weft running too freely, causes twisted of weft yarn
and appear on the surface of fabric.

5. Slugs:
When the weft yarn is unclean and contains slugs and its diameter s irregular, the defect appea4rin on the cloth is
known as slugs.

6. Stitching:
It is a major defect particularly in good quality cloth. It is a common fabric fault in which the ends and the picks are not
interlaced according to correct order of the pattern.

7. Irregular Pick Density:

If the pick density that is pick per inch varies due to mechanical fault then thick or thin place may be formed in the
fabric.

8. Hairy Cloth:
The fibres in the yarn have been roughened before, during or after weaving.
Defects in Fabric

9. Holes:
If there is any small holes present in the fabric and then it is a major fabric defect.

10. Oil Spot:

Oil Spot on the fabrics are caused by too much oiling on loom parts r from other sources. However, oil stains in most
fabrics may be removed by scouring process.

11. Starting Mark:

The fault known as Starting Place in cloth/fabric are caused as a result of stopping and starting a loom. The fault
appears width way of the fabric. There are some other faults which are visible after dyeing. Few common faults of
these categories are mentioned below.

12. Shedding:
When a role of fabric is dyed, depth of shade of color may vary from one place to another place along the length of
the fabric is known as shedding.

13. White Spot:

If the grey fabric is made of cotton and in the cotton, polyester or other synthetic fibres is mixed to a negligible
amount, after dyeing the polyester fibre remain white, showing white spot in the fabric.

14. Running Stripe Shedding:

In the solid color dyed fabric sometime narrow stripe like color shedding affect is observed due to dyeing fault is
known as running stripe shadding.

15. Colored Spot on Fabric:

Due to knots, neps , slubs etc, present in the fabric, after dyeing, those places appears as a colored spot.
This is all about Fabric Defects.
Definition of fabric selvage or selvedges
In yard goods, the outer edges are constructed so they will not ravel. These finished edges are
called the selvages (self-edges) and are often made with heavier and more closely spaced warp
yarns than are used in the rest of the fabric by using more or stronger warp yarns or by using a
stronger weave. Selvages (also called selvedges) provide strength to fabric for safe handling of
the fabric. Selvage should not curl. The warp yarns always run parallel to the selvages. Proper
use of the selvedges can also prevent the bowing and bias conditions that occur in some fabric.
The weaving machines need mechanisms which through the formation of sufficiently strong
selvedges bind the wefts together, thus imparting to the fabric a proper appearance and solidity
and preventing the breaking up of the threads on the fabric edges during the subsequent
operations.
In shuttle looms, there is no need for special selvedge; since the yarn is not cut after each weft
insertion, the edges of the fabric are smooth and strong. On conventional shuttle looms, it is
formed when the weft yarns turns to go back across the fabric. The conventional loom makes the
same kind of selvedge on both sides of the fabric. At the present time this is the only advantage
of shuttle loom over shuttleless loom. In shuttleless weaving, since the weft yarn is cut after
every insertion, there are fringe selvedges on both sides of the fabric. In this case, special
selvedges are needed to prevent slipping of outside warp yarns out of the fabric.

Types of selvedge designs

There are several types of selvedge designs that are used for this purpose with shuttleless looms.
The kind of selvedge used depends upon economy of production and the expected use of the
fabric.
Plain selvedges
These selvedges are constructed of the simple plain weave with the same size yarns as the rest of
the fabric, but with the threads packed more closely together.
Tape selvedges
The tape selvedges are sometimes constructed with the plain weave but often are made of the
basket or twill weaves, which makes a flatter edge. Tape selvedges are made of heavier yarns or
ply yarns, which provide greater strength.

Split selvedges
These are made by weaving a narrow width fabric twice its ordinary width with two selvedges in
the centre. The fabric is then cut between the selvedges, and the cut edges are finished with a
chain stitch or hemming. Split selvedges are used when items such as towels are woven side by
side and cut apart after weaving.
Fused selvedges
These selvedges are made on fabrics of thermoplastic fibres, such as polypropylene, nylon, etc.,
by pressing a hot mechanical element on the edges of the fabric. The fibres melt and fuse
together, sealing the edges.
Leno selvedges
The leno selvedges are obtained by binding the wefts with strong additional threads working in
leno or gauze weave and by eliminating through cutting the protruding weft ends. Half cross leno
weave fabrics have excellent shear resistance. They are made with special leno weaving
harnesses. The leno selvedge is used on some shuttleless looms.
Tucked-in selvedges
The tucked selvedge is a technique used on some shuttleless looms. A device is used to tuck and
hold the cut ends into the fabric edge. In tucked-in selvedge, the fringed edges of the weft yarns
are woven back into the body of the fabric using a special tuck-in mechanism. As a result, the
weft density is doubled in the selvedge area. The tucked-in selvedge was being only used for
projectile weaving machines in the past; however, it is now also applied to other shuttleless
weaving machines.