Tip #23 Routing

The drill press mode of the Mark

V can be used as a stationary
router in both its vertical and
horizontal positions. But to
accomplish this, a special chuck is
required to secure the high-speed
bits because of the side thrust that
is characteristic of routing opera-
tions. The chuck is locked firmly
in place by securing its setscrew
against the main spindle's tapered
flat. Two setscrews lock the bits
in the chuck. Router bits can be
straight or, like the dovetail
cutter, may have shaped cutting
edges. The routing accessories
are shown in Figure 10-1.
Routing cuts are made at high
speed and with reasonable feed Figure 10-1. The accessories that are used for routing are: (A) the circular shield
and brush assembly, (B) router chuck, and (C) router bits. Also the rip fence and
pressure so the bit can do its job
miter gauge are used to support and guide the stock.
without choking or burning.
Always perform routing opera-
tions at Fast speed. Do not form excessively deep cuts in a single pass. Deep cuts are easier to make
and the results will be smoother if you get to full depth of cut by making repeat passes no deeper than 1/
4" or less, depending on the size of the bit.

ROUTING SAFETY
Warning: Before using the routing accessory, read and understand these Important safety instruc-
tions:
Danger ZoneThe danger zone on the Mark V when routing extends 3" all around the bit and chuck
and 5" in front of the bit. Always keep your fingers and hands out of the danger zone.
When you work at the router, pay attention to where you put your hands. Be certain they aren't in front
of the bit when you advance the quill. Never reach in toward or in front of the bit to clear away scraps.
Turn off the machine and let it come to a complete stop first.
Guard for the RouterThe circular shield and brush assembly must always be used for router opera-
tions. It mounts to the quill and is adjustable to accommodate various thicknesses of stock.
Wear proper eye and ear protection.
Tuck long hair under a hat or tie It up. Do not wear ties, gloves, jewelry or loose clothing. Roll
sleeves up above your elbows. Wear non-slip footwear.
Always mount the circular shield and brush assembly on the Mark V quill before performing
routing operations.
Always run the router at FAST speed.
Avoid taking deep cuts. With the exception of single-pass dovetail cuts, limit depth of cut to 1/4"
for each pass when using bits up to 1/2" dIameter. When using bits over 1/2" diameter, limit depth
of cut to 1/8".
 Never freehand rout. Always use the rip fence or miter
gauge when using bits without pilots, and a starter pin
when using bits with pilots.
Always feed the workpiece against the rotation of the bit.
Otherwise a kickback will occur.
Feed the workpiece slowly. Use extra care when routing
stock that contains figured grain or knots, as these may
cause kickbacks.
Use a push stick to feed a narrow workpiece. When it Is
necessary to push a workpiece underneath the shield, use a
long piece of scrap wood.
Cut with the grain when straight-line routing.
Do not stand directly inline with the workpiece. in the
event of a kickback you could be hit.
When routing across the grain of workpieces up to 10"
wide, always use your miter gauge with safety grip to
control the workpiece.
When stop routing, always use stop block(s) to control the
length of cut. Failure to use stop block(s) will cause a
kickback.
When routing an oversize workpiece, always use at least
one push block to help control the workpiece. Hold the
workpiece firmly against the rip fence.
When edge routing with a piloted bit, always use either a
starter pin or a fence to start the cut and/or guide the
workpiece.
Set speed to SLOW, turn off and unplug the Mark V
before mounting router bits.
Make sure the setscrew in the chuck is tightened against
the fiat of the main spindle and the bit is secured tightly in
the chuck. Then remove the Allen wrench immediately.
Listen for chatter or signs of looseness at startup. If you
hear, see or suspect problems, turn off and unplug the
machine. Correct any problem before proceeding.
Keep the bits clean, maintained and sharp.

ROUTER BITS
Router bits come in a variety of shapes and sizes, each designed
to perform a specific operation. You'll also find how to use deco-
rative edging bits and how to perform additional routing opera-
tions.

GENERAL ROUTING
When routing, the distance from the outer edge of the workpiece Figure 10-2. The distance from the outer
to the bit determines the setup: edge of the workpiece to the bit deter-
mines the setup.
 When workpiece edge is 1" or less from bit, use one feather board on the infeed side and an
additional feather board on the outfeed side, both secured in the table slot. Use a push stick, or
when it's necessary to push work-piece underneath the shield, use a piece of wood (Figure 10-
2A).
When workpiece edge is 1" to 2-3/4" from bit, use two feather boards as above or use one feather
board centered to the bit, secured in table slot. Use a push stick or piece of wood to push the
workpiece under the shield (Figure 10-2B).
When workpiece edge is 2-3/4" to 5-1/2" from bit, use one feather board centered to the bit and
se-cured to table with two C-clamps. Use a push biock (Figure 10-2C).
When routing across the grain of workpieces upto 10" wide, use the miter gauge and safety grip.
Workpiece must extend 5-1/2" away from bit (Figure 10-2D).
When routing an oversize
workpiece, use a push block
(Figure 10-2E).

Router cuts made with the grain

are smoother than cross grain or
against the grain cuts, but you
can't always work that way. When
you can't, work with a slower
feed rate and less depth of cut
forop-timum results.
The depth of single pass cuts
should be limited as follows:
1/4" maximum depth of cut for
bits upto 1/2" diameter.
Figure 10-3. Feed teh workpiece from left to right agains the bits direction of
rotation. A slow feed with a shallow depth of cut will produce the best results.
1/8" maximum depth of cut for
bits over 1/2" diameter.
Less than the above limits when
routing extremely hard wood.

Feed the workpiece from left to

right against the bit's direction of
rotation (Figure 10-3). The action
of the properly installed bit will
help keep the workpiece against
the fence.
When using auxiliary facings, it is
a good idea to remember that
when the fence is behind the bit,
the pass is also made from left to
right.

Make cross grain cuts by working

with the miter gauge and safety
grip (Figure 10-4). Some chipping
Figure 10-4. Make cross grain cuts by working with the miter gauge and safety will occur where the bit breaks
grip.
through, so allow for it by making
the cut on an extra-wide piece. Then you can remove the chipped
edge using the table saw or jointer.

Stock edges are often routed to form rabbets. For this and similar
kinds of work, make an auxiliary facing, as shown in Figure 10-5,
that can be attached to the rip fence as shown in Figure 10-6. The
relief area allows adjustments so the bit can project beyond the
bearing surface of the facing. The depth of cut is controlled by
quill extension; width of cut is controlled by how much the bit pro-
jects. If you need a wider cut, move the table or reposition the
fence and make another pass.
Figure 10-5. Construction
details of the auxiliary facing.

MORTISES
Mortises with round ends can be
formed with a router bit (Figure
10-7). Mark the stock where the
mortise begins; clamp stop blocks
to a fence extension to control the
length of the mortise in both
directions. Position the workpiece
against the left stop block so the
bit will be at the first mark, extend
the quill to penetrate the
workpiece, and lock it. Then move
the workpiece until it contacts the
right stop block. Mortise cuts are
usually quite deep, so repeat Figure 10-6. An auxiliary facing that can be bolted to the rip fence is a
must for many routing operations. The relief area allows for setting the bit
passes will be necessary. The so cuts like the rabbet can be made.
width of the mortise depends on
the size of the bit.

Figure 10-8. Mortises formed with a

Figure 10-7. The stop blocks determine the length of the mortise. Full mortise router bit will have round ends, so the
depth is reached by making repeat passes. tenon must be shaped to fit.
Figure 10-9. Slots are formed like mortises except that the cut starts at the end
of the workpiece.

Mortises formed this way will have round ends; therefore, the tenon must
be shaped to fit (Figure 10-8).
Figure 10-10. These are
SlotsSlots are formed the same way as mortises except that after the typical examples of dovetail
quill is extended and locked in position, the cut starts at the end of the joints.
workpiece and continues until it contacts the stop block (Figure 10-9).

DOVETAILS
A dovetail is one of the strongest
joints in woodworking because it
will resist a pulling strain in every
direction but the one from which
the tenons are inserted into the
slots. Two common applications
are shown in Figure 10-10.

The same dovetail cutter is used to

form both the tenon and the slot.
Mating the parts is a matter of
positioning the cuts in proper
relationship to each other.

Spacing of the cuts is determined

by the size of the cutter and the
design of the joint. One method is
to mark the workpiece and align
each cut with the cutter. Another Figure 10-11. Dovetail tenons can be formed as shown. The table height lever
method is to pencil mark the (Model 500) or table height crank (Model 510) is used as the forward feed
mechanism.
worktable so that the edge of the
workpiece can be moved forward to a new mark after each cut. When you mark the worktable, first
 deter-mine the centerline of the
spindle; then mark the cutlines by
measuring toward the worktable
edges, front and rear. One technique
is to use measuring tape which has a
gummed side. This may be placed
on the worktable and then removed
when not in use.

To cut dovetail tenons as shown in

Figure 10-11, position the work-
table parallel to the way tubes. Use
the table height lever (Model 500)
or table height crank (Model 510)
as a forward feed mechanism, the
stop collars from the lathe tailstock
to control table movement, the quill
feed lever to obtain exact depth of
cut, the rip fence as a platform for
the workpiece and the miter gauge
to square the work-piece to the
cutter. When feeding the workpiece
forward against the cutter, move the
Figure 10-12. Make dovetail slots using a feather board and push block. worktable slowly, and be sure the
workpiece is clamped securely in
place. After the cut is made, turn off
the Mark V and return the work-
table to the starting position. If
desired, place the workpiece for the
next cut and repeat the procedure.

The mating cuts are formed with

the worktable in the horizontal
position and with the fence used as
a guide (Figure 10-12). The table is
brought up as close to the cutter as
possible, and the final adjustment is
made by extending the quill. The
workpiece is fed forward against
the cutter. A stop is clamped on the
fence to control the length of cut.
For spacing, the fence can be
moved for each new cut or the
worktable can be advanced-again by
using the table height mechanism as
Figure 10-13. This long dovetail slot might be required for a sliding assembly. a forward feed device. When
Note the position of the worktable and the rip fence and the use of the feather feeding the workpiece against the
board and fence extension. cutter, hold it firmly on the work-
 table and push it slowly. Caution: If
the cut is for a through dovetail,
use a scrap block between the
work and the table.

The tenon on a single, wide dove-

tail is formed by making two cuts,
one on each end of the stock. The
mating part is formed the same
way, with the waste stock cut away
by running the work across the
cutter within limits set by the two
end cuts and stop blocks. Care
must be exercised in positioning
the pieces for successive cuts, but
testing in scrap wood before
cutting will make this easier. By
using the setups shown in Figures
10-13 and 10-14, you can join
boards edge-to-edge or provide a
Figure 10-14. A dovetail tenon is formed in two passes, one on each face of the sliding arrangement.
stock.
Cut the slot in one pass by placing
the table as shown and adjusting
itso the cut is made directly down
the centerline of the board (Figure
10-13). Depth of cut is set by
lowering the quill and locking it in
position. Feed the workpiece
slowly and keep it flat against the
table. Don't force the workpiece.

The tenon requires two passes. The

workpiece is positioned so the
cutter forms the tenon on one side
of the board. Then the workpiece is
turned and the second pass is
made; thus, the cutter completes
the forming of the tenon on the
opposite surface of the board
(Figure 10-14). Here, even more
than elsewhere, be sure the
workpiece is held firmly and flat
against the table. Construction
details for the fence extension are
shown in Figure 5-10.

Figure 10-15. A sliding table greatly simplifies cutting a dovetail slot in an

extrawide piece.
 Figure 10-17. Two passes are
needed on an extra-wide
workpiece. Be sure to align the
bith with the kerf.

Figure 10-16. Construction details of the sliding table. Runners should fit snugly
against the edges of the table (Model 500) or the table tubes (Model 510).

Wide stock that must be grooved across the grain requires a sliding table arrangement to which the work
can be clamped (Figure 10-15). The fixture is constructed as shown in Figure 10-16, with the runners
situated so the platform will slide smoothly on the table. The table is raised to an approximate position
and the final adjustment for depth of cut is made by using the quill feed lever.

With this arrangement the length of cut is limited to the distance from the cutter to the tubes. On narrow
stock the groove can be completed in one pass by using a spacer board between the workpiece and the
fence. Wide boards require two cuts from opposite sides of the board on a common centerline. Alignment
is important. Locate the cutter center by marking a pencil line on the fence of the sliding table. Mark lines
on the workpiece to locate the centerlines of the grooves. Align these with the mark on the fence. Since
the first half-cut (on wide boards) removes the line, it is necessary to use a straightedge to realign the
workpiece with the mark on the fence before completing the cut (Figure 10-17). This method is not
limited to dovetail grooves; straight grooves are cut with router bits, and the procedure is exactly the
same.

HORIZONTAL ROUTING
As shown in Figure 10-18, grooves are cut with the Mark V in the horizontal position. A fence ex-tension
and feather board provide guidance and support as the workpiece is fed through. Construction details for
the fence extension are found in Figure 5-10.

The depth of cuts given in General Routing apply. If it's tough to feed the workpiece, the workpiece
chatters, or the cut is rough, you are probably cutting too deep. Back off and make repeat passes instead.
The same setup can be used to form rabbets or tongues.
 Handle cross grain cuts by work-
ing with the miter gauge and
using the miter gauge stop rod to
determine the depth of cut (Fig-
ure 10-19). There will be some
feathering at the end of the cut,
so work on a piece that is wider
than you need. Remove the chip
by making a light jointer cut or by
sawing.

Figure 10-18. A router bit can be used to form edge grooves if this setup is
employed. The feather board keeps the workpiece flat on the table.

Figure 10-19. Use the miter gauge and miter gauge stop rod when doing cross
grain work. Feathering at the end of the cut is characteristic but is easily
removed by jointing or sawing.
Tip #21 All About Router Bits
Power woodworking routers will work as well as the cutting tool that fits into them.

Maybe you just bought the Shopsmith Router Package or took the plunge and invested in the Router
Arm and got a portable router that sports a high torque motor. But without a good bit in the chuck, even
the best router with the most powerful motor is as handicapped as a hammer without a handle.

Not to worry though! Most of the bits that you can purchase are good when you get them. This is cer-
tainly true of the four high-speed steel bits that come in the Shopsmith Mark V Router Package. The
problem comes after you've used them for a while.

Look at it this way: a good circular saw blade is a cutter with a large number of cutting edges 24, 36,
even more on a plywood blade. With proper care, it will stay sharp a long, long time. But router bits carry
only one to four cutting edges. That means each edge of a router bit does far more work than an indi-
vidual saw tooth.

Any way you cut it, router bits will lose their keen edge more quickly than a tool that carries more teeth.
If you're routing plywood or particle board, the rock hard glue in those materials wears the edge off bits
very fast. And if you hit a concealed screw or nail with a router bit, you might as well kiss it goodbye.
Used with care, however, you can spruce them up time after time.

Router bits: two basic types

Router bits can be divided into two types: those made of carbid or with carbide tips and those made of
one piece of hardened high speed steel.

Carbide-tipped bits: the Rolls-Royce of cutters

Carbide and carbide-tipped bits were first used by industry when this extremely hard (80 on the Rockwell
"C" Scale) alloy was developed in the late '50's. Widely available and popular with even the average
consumer now, these bits are made by brazing extremely hard carbide cutters onto a face of high speed
steel. They cost more, but they last longer.

Their ability to take harder-than-average use makes them a good investment, but you should know that
carbide-tipped bits, even when brand new, are marginally less sharp than top quality high speed steel bits.
This does not affect their overall performance, however, and carbide-tipped bits still outperform high
speed steel bits in the long run.

When you buy them, take a good look (with a magnifying glass if you like) at the brazed joint between
the carbide alloy and the steel face. Tiny, hairline fault cracks or bubbles there might indicate a poor
quality tool. There's no way to forecast disappointment for certain, however, since small gaps might cause
no long-range problems at all. Still, to be safe, buy a bit that at least looks well-brazed.

Not all carbide-tipped bits are created equal, either. Some are tagged simply "Carbide", while others are
called "Carbide Production Bits". The production-type usually have a heavier deposit of carbide brazed
onto the cutting edge. Since every sharpening of a bit reduces the diameter of a cutting edge a little, this
extra deposit of carbide works to allow more sharpening.
If you're planning to use a router for plywood or particle board joinery or edging, by all means invest in a
good carbide-tipped bit. If you're trimming high pressure plastic laminate on a countertop, it's definitely
best to use a carbide-tipped trimmer with a ball-bearing pilot on the bit as well.

When these bits finally need to be touched up, alas, you really shouldn't try to do it yourself. You
shouldn't, that is, unless you happen to own an abrasive diamond grinding wheel! Those rare and expen-
sive accessories are the only sharpening tool that's hard enough to sharpen carbide well.

The good news is that every small town in America seems to have at
least one
good professional sharpening service. If your local professional lacks
the highly specialized tools to sharpen carbide-tipped tools, he
probably can recommend someone who does. A qualified tool
sharpener can even replace broken or chipped carbide cutting edges.

Since you should send carbide-tipped tools out, the actual sharpen-
ing and repair process of these kinds of tools remains something of a Fig. 1. Special purpose Aluminum-
mystery for the average woodworker. How can you tell, then, if the oxide honing stones.
local sharpener has done a good job? Held to the light, a well-
sharpened edge should not have any shiny spots or small chips. The
final test is simply to use it - you'll know from the minute it starts
cutting how well it's been treated. As a matter of course, it should
cut at least as well as when it was new.

High Speed Steel Bits: the workhorses

High speed hardened steel bits are less expensive and found more
often in the typical homeshop. Formed as mild steel, these bits are
hardened in a special heat treatment, usually to within 60 to 65 on
the Rockwell "C" Scale.

There's no real mystery to sharpening most of these bits: the steel in

Fig. 2. Honing face of router bit on
them is hard, but if you own a common bench-stone, you can hone
bench-stone.
the larger varieties and put a keen edge back on them. The stone you
use should be well-dressed, with sharp, well-defined edges. An
alumi-num-oxide stone works well ("India" or "Aloxite").

You can make the whole process a lot easier if you purchase a set of
aluminum-oxide triangular or knife-edge stones. (See Fig. 1.) Their
thinner edges make it easier to sharpen these comparatively tiny
tools. Even the tiniest of router bits -those used for straight cuts and
veining - can be sharpened with a set of these stones. (But watch out!
Drop one of these fragile stones and it'll shatter to pieces.)

If you use a benchstone, mount it on your worktable with bench dogs

or clamps to hold it steady while you rub the bit on it. Use a lubricant Fig. 3. Drill chuck mounted on
to keep the stone clean. tailstock chuck arbor to hold router
bits while sharpening.
Honing almost all router bits is based on the principle that the whole face of the cutting flute is on one
plane. If that flat plane is large enough, you can find and hone it. Touch-up sharpening is always done on
the face of the flute, never on the contoured profile. (See Fig. 2.)

Unlike honing large chisels on a bench-stone, the action of the stone on these small tools is limited to
very, very small movements: 1/4" total back and forth movement, or even less.
You might choose to mount the bit securely in a vise and move the stone. You can put together a handy
vise to hold router bits by mounting the drill chuck on the tailstock chuck arbor in the lathe tail-stock of
the Mark V. (See Fig. 3.) Squirt a drop or two of oil on the bit itself and posi-tion the stone on the major
portion of the flat. Avoid rubbing the pilot as you hone - this will ruin the bit. When the oil on the bit
darkens with swarf (little flakes of metal) you'll know that you're on the way to a keen edge.

If you're having trouble getting the feel of the flat, you can check just how well you're doing by using a
dark color felt-tipped marker to coat the bit's face. By checking to see how much of the color is removed,
you can tell whether you're honing the entire surface. It helps to use a good, concentrated light and a
magnifying glass.

If a burr forms on the profile of the bit, remove it carefully with a Hard Arkansas stone.
To check for sharpness, run the cutting edge over your thumbnail: it should
"grab" the nail and leave a light "track" rather than slip over it easily.

The shaft: don't overwork it

A small shank coupled with a large cutting edge can weaken a bit. The larger the shank, the stronger the
bit. This is one reason why Shopsmith router bits are made with a heavy-duty industrial size 1/2" shank.
When buying a hand-held router, get one that has a 1/2" collet accessory so that you can make use of a
full range of shank sizes.

Don't overwork the shank and the bit by "hogging" into stock at high speed. This stresses the bit and the
router motor, overheating both. Whenever practical, take light cuts in smooth passes.

In mounting the bit into the router chuck, push it in till the shaft touches "bottom," then back it out 1/8".
This prevents transferring vibrations from the bit to the motor armature.

General routing tips

When possible, feed stock into the router against the rotation of the bit. This prevents the speeding bit
from grabbing and forcing the stock past the cutting edges too quickly.
Clean router bits always work better:

use oven cleaner to remove wood resins built up on them. Ball-bearing pilots especially need to be kept
clean. When used to trim laminated material, a router bit with a ball-bearing pilot can really get gummed
up. Clean the outer collar with a tip of a rag soaked in a solvent that will dissolve the type of glue used.

In using the Mark V for routing with either the standard 1/2" shank bits or with 1/4" shank bits and a
special bushing (see below) you should rev the machine up to maximum speed: about 5200 rpm's. This is
still much slower than the typical hand-held router's rpm's of 22,000 to 24,000. But routing doesn't
require high rpm's - it can be done at slower speeds. Simply feed stock more slowly in-to the bit and take
lighter cuts.
 J K

F I
L G

B D
N Schedule of Materials: Little Shop Router Fence
C No. Ltr. Item Dimensions T W L Material
Inside edge rounded 2 A Front & back 1 2" x 21 2" x 33" Plywood
for better chip flow A E 1 B Bottom 1 1 3
2" x 1 2" x 15 4" Plywood
1 1 1
1 C Bottom 2" x 1 2" x 13 8" Plywood
3 D Ends & support 1 2" x 11 2" x 2" Plywood
1 1 1
1 E End 2" x 2 2" x 2 2" Plywood
1 1
B 2 F Tops 2" x 2 2" x 3" Plywood
1 1
1 G Top 2" x 2 2" x 6" Plywood
H 2 H Fence faces 3
4" x 4" x 19" Maple
1 1 1
1 I Lid 2" x 2 2" x 9 2" Plywood.
1 1 1
1 J Lid 2" x 2 2" x 11 2" Plywood
H 2 K Pull 1 1
4" x 1" x 2 2" Plywood
4 L Index blocks 1 4" x 1" x 11 2" Plywood
2 M Finger boards 3 4" x 31 8" x 8" Maple
M 2 N Jointer spacers 5" x 16" Plas. Lam.

Fingerboard mounting holes All hole dimensions are

w/ 5/8" counterbored in back 2 3/4" 1 1/4" 2" 2 3/4" 1/2"
to their centers
5/8" counterbore / 1/4" hole 1/4" hole 4"
1 3/4"

8 1/4" 3 5/8" 3 5/8" 6 1/4"

19" 19"
Fence ends cut at 45.
Elevation of fence faces Leave a 1/8" shoulder. Drill a hole for your
shopvac hose to fit
1/4" 1/4"
1 3/8" nominal
3" 11 1/2" 6" 9 1/2" 3"
1/2"

1 1/2" 2 1/2"

1/2"
1/2" 3 1/2" 2" 6 1/4" 2" 4" 2" 4 1/4" 2" 3 1/4"
1 1/8" 1/2" 1 5/8"
33 1/2"
Plan
3/8" radii on
1/4" 1/4" 9 1/2"
3" 11 1/2" 6" 3" lid pulls
1/2"
1"1
/2" 4"
CL 1/4"
1 3/4" 2" 2" 3" 2"
1/2"
1/2" 1/2" 3/4" 3/32"
1/2" 3 1/2" 2" 6 1/4" 2" 4" 2" 4 1/4" 2" 3 1/4" 1 1/2" 1/2"
square
1 1/8" 1/2" 1 5/8" 3 1/4" rabbet
Elevation 33 1/2"
Profile
ROUTER TABLE

Construction

Tools required: Router, jigsaw, sander, drill

Description Qty Width Thickness Length

Corner posts (Pine) 6 1 1/2" (38 mm) 1 1/8" (28.5 mm) 11 1/2" (292 mm)
Side pieces (plywood) 4 11 1/2" (292 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 19 3/4" (501 mm)
Front corner supports (pine) 2 1 1/2" (38 mm) 3/4" (19 mm) 4 1/2" (114 mm)
Switch panel (pine) 1 4 1/2" (114 mm) 3/4" (19 mm) 11 1/2" (292 mm)
Drawer runners (pine) 4 1/2" (13 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 18" (457 mm)
Outer panel support 2 1 1/2" (38 mm) 3/4" (19 mm) 18" (457 mm)
Back spacers 4 1 1/2" (38 mm) 3/4" (19 mm) 4 3/4" (121 mm)
Center Supports 5 1" (25 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm) 11" (279 mm)
Top 2 24" (610 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 24" (610 mm)
Edging trim 4 1 1/4" (32 mm) 5/16" (8 mm) 24 3/8" (619 mm)
Drawers (base) 2 4 1/2" (114 mm) 3/4" (19 mm) 16 1/2" (419 mm)
Drawers (front) 2 4 1/2" (114 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 4 1/4" (108 mm)
Formica 1 24" (610 mm) n/a 24" (610 mm)
Take the six corner posts and rout a 1/2" (13 mm) groove along the length each one to a
depth of 1/2" (13 mm). This groove will be used to slot in the side panels of plywood.
The groove should begin 3/8" (9.5 mm) from the outside edge of each corner piece (and
1/4" (6 mm) from the inside).

Take two of these corner pieces and place them side-by-side with
the groove nearest the outside edge (i.e. furthest away from the
other groove). Take the two front corner supports and place one at
the top and one at the bottom of these corner posts, forming a
square. Glue and screw the corner posts to these support pieces
(see diagram). The resulting construction is the front of the left
hand unit (i.e. the one that will have drawers in it).

Next, take two more corner posts and attach them to the switch panel thus forming a solid
version of the above unit. At this time, cut a hole in the switch panel to accommodate the
electrical switch that you have elected to use. You have now created the two front panels.

Cut all four plywood side panels to size. Two of these panels will be outer panels (ie
physically located on the outside of the construction) while the other two are inner panels
(see diagram). Take one outer and one inner panel and attach the drawer runners. These
should be located at 1 1/4" to 1 3/4" (32 mm - 44 mm) and 2 1/2" to 3" (63mm - 76 mm)
from the bottom of the panel, thus leaving a 3/4" (19 mm) gap between them (for the
lower drawer) and 6" to 6 1/2" (152 mm - 165 mm) and 7 1/2" to 7 3/4" (190 mm - 197
mm) from the top. The drawers will slot into the 3/4" (19 mm) gap between the runners.

Take the two outer panels and attach the outer panel support to the inside of each one, so
that it is flush with the top of the panel. This panel support should run from 1" (25 mm)
from the back to 3/4" (19 mm) from the front. The reason for this support is to provide a
wider, more solid plank of wood that the top of the router table can be attached to.

Take the two sidepieces that you put drawer runners on. Attach the outer panel to the
outer groove of the front left hand unit and the inner panel to the inside of the two
grooves. To attach these, glue and nail from the side. Take one of the two remaining
corner posts and glue/nail it to the back of the outer panel. Then, attach the top and
bottom back spacers between this back corner post and the inner panel. The result should
be a complete box (two sides and a front frame) that is the left hand unit. Repeat this
exercise for the right hand unit.

To complete the base construction, it is necessary to join these two side units together
with spacers. This is done by connecting both sides to a number of center support pieces
(three for the base and three for the top). The top three should be connected (by screwing
through from the side unit) at 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" (63 mm - 89 mm), 12" to 13" (305 mm -
330 mm) and 19" to 20" (483 mm - 508 mm) from the front of the unit. These should be
aligned flush with the top of the side panels so that the top will rest on top of them. This
is important, as it will help stop the top from warping over time.

The bottom two supports should be attached at 1 1/2" to 2 1/2" (38 mm - 64 mm) -- ie
just behind the corner posts -- and 19 1/2" to 20 1/2" (495 mm - 521 mm) from the front
and should be flush with the base.

The result is one large box frame. Then, add the back panel to increase the strength of the
frame. However, before you do this, cut out a square hole in the back panel that is 7" (178
mm) from each side, 3" (76 mm) from the base of the piece and 3" from the top of the
piece (in other words, a square that is 9 3/4" x 5 1/2" (248 mm x 140 mm)). The purpose
of this hole is to allow easy access (from the back of the table) to the router so that you
can change the router bit.

Now it is time to build the top of the unit. Take the two pieces of 1/2" (13 mm) plywood
(cut to 24" x 24" (610 mm square)) and attach them onto the frame made above. This
should provide you with a top that is 1" (25 mm) thick. To attach this double thickness
top to the base, use a combination of glue and screws. Make sure that the head of these
screws is not above the level of the top they should (at least) be flush, if not slightly
sunken in. Further. Do NOT use any screws in the area that will accommodate the router
base. This sounds rather obvious but it is the most common mistake to make and is the
cause of many a ruined router bit later in this project. To calculate where the router base
will be, see below "Routing the base hole".

Once the top is secure (and the glue is dry) clean up the edges -- using a sander to
ensure that they are smooth. Then, glue the Formica onto the top (using special glue).
This then needs to be left for approximately three days to ensure that it bonds correctly.
Make sure that the Formica sheet is slightly larger than the top plywood, so that it can
overhang all four sides. By doing this, it is easier to align the Formica to the top. Once it
is glued securely you can use the router to trim the edges to make them flush.
Routing the base hole

It is now time to cut the hole for the router base. Obviously, the
size of this hole depends upon the size of the plexi-glass router
base you purchased. The sizes described below are based on the
standard size of 11 3/4" x 11 3/4" x 3/8" (298 mm x 298 mm x 9
mm) that should be available from your local woodworking store.

First, mark out the full size of the area to be routed (i.e. 11 3/4" x 11 3/4" the same as
the plexi-glass). The hole should be 6 1/8" (156 mm) from each side, and 1" (25 mm)
from the front of the table. Then, rout out this area to a depth of 3/8" (9 mm). Take your
time doing this, and take very shallow cuts initially so as not to splinter the Formica. It is
very important that you are accurate when routing out this area, as you want to have a
tight fit with the plexi-glass. To this end, clamp down straight pieces of wood as guides to
ensure that the router cannot cut more than you want. When routing out this area you do
not need to rout the entire square. Instead, rout out to a width of 3" (76 mm), leaving the
middle of the square intact. By leaving this area intact you give the router an even, flat
surface upon which to rest while routing out the remaining area.

Once you have routed out this area, mark out a smaller square that is 6 3/4" x 6 3/4" (171
mm x 171 mm) in the middle of the routed area, and cut this inner square out, using a
jigsaw. This smaller hole allows the router to press up against the plexi-glass. Then,
ensure that the plexi-glass fits tightly in the routed hole and that it is flush with the
surface. Minor adjustments may be necessary to ensure that this is so.

Once the plexi-glass fits neatly, cut out the hole for the router bit and three screw holes in
this plexi-glass. To cut these to the correct dimensions, remove the plastic base from your
router and use it as a template. Do not throw this plastic base away as you will need to
reattach it if you ever remove the router from the table. However, to attach the router to
the plexi-glass, you should not reattach the plastic base, as the new plexi-glass sheet
becomes the router's new base.

Once these holes have been cut, make additional drill holes in each corner of the plexi-
glass so that this sheet can be screwed into the router table.

Routing the measuring and back rest slots

Once the plexi-glass is complete, it is time to cut the slots that will accommodate the
backrest bolts. These bolts run along two long slots (from front to back) so that the
backrest can be easily moved to the correct distance away from the router.

Cut two slots one on each side that run all the way from the back of the table to
within 7 1/2" (190 mm) of the front. These cuts should be 1/2" (13 mm) wide, and 3 1/2"
(89 mm) from the side, running parallel with the side. As before, take your time and only
cut a small amount each time. The depth of the cut (once finished) should be the same as
the depth of the top (i.e. just over 1" in depth) so that the bolts can go all the way through.
Once this has been done, glue thin strips of Formica to each side of the underneath of this
slot. This will reduce the friction when sliding the bolt along the slot, thus allowing for
easier movement of the backrest.

Once both slots have been cut (one on each side) it is time to cut the measuring slot. The
purpose of this slot is to accommodate a thin metal ruler. These rules can be bought from
any good tool shop and come as a roll. The rule is made of thin metal, with a self-
adhesive attached to the underside. While you could just glue this directly onto the
Formica, this would result in a slightly raised surface and would catch on any wood that
you rout. To resolve this problem, cut a slot that is 1/32" (1 mm) deep and 1/2" (19 mm)
wide (the width of the rule), parallel to the bolt slot. Again, this should run all the way
from the back towards the front, with the front end stopping at 6 3/8" (162 mm) from the
front of the table. [[NOTE: this front distance may vary from table to table. The point is
that the tape should run up until it is flush with the front of the router bit]]. Stick the rule
into this thin slot (using the self-adhesive backing), ensuring that 0" on the rule is at the
front end of the slot.

Once all of the slots have been cut, attach the trim to each edge of the top. Adding the
trim makes the top look deeper than it actually as, as well as improving the look of the
table.

Building the back rest

The backrest is made of cherry, a relatively hard wood.

You should pick a wood that is resistant to warping.
Essentially, the backrest consists of two main pieces, the
base and the front. Both pieces should be 24" long.

Take the base piece and cut a chunk out of it that is 1 1/2" (38 mm) wide and cuts back 1"
(25 mm). This chunk should begin 11 1/4" (286 mm) from each side. By removing this
small square of wood, the backrest will be able to overlap the router bit, allowing for very
fine cuts to be made.

Next, take the front piece and cut out a chunk that is 1 1/2" (38 mm) high and 1 1/2" (38
mm) wide. Again, this should be 11 1/4" from each side (in other words, matching the
base piece). Then, cut out four support pieces, triangular in shape, that are 1 3/4" (44
mm) wide and 2" (51 mm) long, with a 90 degree angle between.

Now all of the components are set, put every thing together. Glue and screw the from
piece onto the edge of the back piece, and glue and nail the triangular supports between
the two to strengthen the join (see diagram). The triangular pieces should be placed 1
1/2" (38 mm) and 9 1/2" (241 mm) from each side. Note that if you want to add a dust
extractor to this router table, then the dust pipe will attach between the inner two support
pieces and this should be borne in mind when deciding on the exact position of them.
Finally, cut two holes, 1/2" (19 mm) diameter, through the base piece. Each hole should
be 1" (25 mm) from the back of the base piece and 3 3/4" (95 mm) in from each side
(matching the slots cut in the table). These holes accommodate the two bolts that fasten
the back rest to the table. Attach these bolts by pushing them up from the underside of the
router table and then through the back rest holes. Use wing nuts to secure the bolts as this
allows you to easily tighten or loosen the bolts as desired.

Building the drawers

Building the drawers is the easiest part of the whole project as

they are not conventional drawers at all. These drawers are used
to store the router bits and so do not need a back or sides. Instead,
each drawer consists of a front and a base. Drill 1/2" (19 mm)
deep holes in the base to accommodate the router bits and then
glue and screw the front panel onto the end of the base.

Finally, attach a drawer knob to the front of each drawer.

Connecting the electrical components

As mentioned before, the router table has a switch on the front right side. This connects
between the external power source (i.e. the house power) and the socket into which the
router is plugged in. This socket should be attached to the inner wall on the right hand
side (as opposed to the outer wall). Consult an electrical manual for details of how to
connect up the wiring.

Warning: be very careful when wiring up the router table. Failure to adhere to local
standards for wire type can potentially lead to a fire hazard or possible electrocution. It is
therefore imperative that you consult with a manual or, if in doubt, consult an electrician.
Cut List Bench Top Router Table

27- 3/4 x 2 x 21 laminations for the top

2- 3/4 x 2 x 20 feet

4- 3/4 x 2 x 16 side rails

2- 3/4 x 2 x 14-1/2 rear rails

6- 3/4 x 2 x 11-1/4 legs

If you don't have space in your shop for a floor mounted router table, or if you want a
simpler route to a router table so to speak, consider this project. Remember, also, that at
times it is handy to have two router tables and you certainly don't need to build two floor-
mounted units. This smaller model is easy to build, store, and use, and will function just
as well for most routing purposes as any other larger model.

On this router table you'll make a heavy-duty top, using stack laminations of hardwood.
This takes time to make, but over the long run a top like this will hold up to crushing by
clamps and other hard use. If you prefer, you can use a particleboard or plywood top to
make it easier.
Begin by getting out all the parts. Note that they are all the same width, but most of the
parts for the undercarriage are shorter than those needed for the top. This is useful for
making efficient use of your stock. As you look for length combinations in your stock
that will give you the numerous 20" long pieces needed for the top, often you will find
combinations that give you, say, two 20" and one 18". "Darn," you think, "if only it were
two inches longer!" Well don't go buy a board stretcher yet, just use that 18" piece for
one of the 16" side rails.

As you get out the pieces, remember that you can use pieces with bad defects in the stack
lamination. There is no need to cut out all the knots and rough edges, so long as each part
has one clean edge that you can turn upward for the top. Glue together all the pieces for
the top in one gluing operation. Use a lot of glue on the lamination faces, because you are
gluing a broad area and much of the glue will be absorbed. If you lay down only a thin
layer you run the risk of it all being absorbed so that the joint itself is starved. Keep hot
water and rags close by to deal with the mess.

Keep a close eye on how flat your glue up is. Put your clamps onto a flat surface to begin
with so that what is put on them will be relatively flat too. As you tighten the clamps on
the laminations some of them will slide and shift around under pressure and with the
slippery glue. Lay a straight edge across the top and correct any discrepancies greater
than 1/8". Later you'll rout off that last 1/8", but for now just guarantee that they stay
close.

Note that the whole thing can become twisted, like an oriental fan beginning to open.
Conceptually this is a neat idea but it's devastating for your router table, so watch that the
two end laminations stay parallel. To do so use winding sticks, which are two straight
sticks, of uniform width, about three feet long. Place one on one of the end laminations
(perpendicular to them), the other on the other end. Stand to the side and align your line
of sight along the top edge of both sticks. If the two laminations are not parallel, you will
immediately see the discrepancy along the winding sticks. A little out of parallel is not
bad at this stage, but use the winding sticks to guarantee that things aren't real bad.
 Photo 1- Flatten the router table top with
this router jig, which causes the router to
travel in straight lines in both directions.

When the lamination is dry, set up to flatten it by clamping two boards with straight
edges onto either side of the lamination as in photo 1. The top edges of these boards must
meet three requirements. They must be straight, they must be parallel, and they must be
clamped at close to equal distances from all four corners of the lamination. These boards
act like winding sticks, so you can sight down them to ensure that they are parallel.
Measure carefully to align the glue up with the tops of the boards.

The last component in the operation is the router slide jig. This is simply two straight
pieces of 1x2 with a plywood router mount in the middle, as shown in photo 1. The slide
jig rides on top of the straight edge boards clamped to the glue up, and guides the router
along a straight path between the two boards.

Mount a 1/2" or greater diameter straight flute bit in the router, and set the depth of cut so
that it reaches the lowest area on the lamination surface. Wax the straight edges on the
guide boards, turn on the router, and gradually move the router back and forth until you
have skimmed over the entire surface of the lamination.
This procedure will produce a flat surface only if the guide boards and jig boards are
straight and parallel. Another threat to flatness is distortion to the lamination from
clamps. Your bar clamps may bow the glue up as pressure is applied. When you cut the
surface it will be flat, but when you let off the clamps it springs back and is no longer
flat. If your bar clamps bow the lamination, place clamp blocks between the clamp jaws
and the wood they contact. Shift the location of these blocks up or down to change the
point at which pressure is applied. When pressure is applied at the center of the
lamination, it should not bow.

When the top is flat, flip it over and flatten the bottom. This is important so that when
you screw the base on, the top won't distort if the screws pull on an uneven surface along
the bottom. The top and bottom needn't be exactly parallel, but challenge yourself and see
if you can get them close. It's perfect when the thickness is even all the way around.

Make three rectangular frames for the base of the table, using the legs and rails shown on
the cut out list. Note that you may wish to increase the height of the six legs according to
the height you require beneath the table to fit your particular router. The given
dimensions allow one foot clearance beneath which is adequate for most routers.

Photo 2- You can use a simple tenoning jig such as

this to cut open mortise and tenon joints on the ends of
parts.

Use a table saw tenoning jig to cut open mortise and tenon joints to join the parts of the
three frames as in photo 2. Or, cut the rails shorter and use dowels and a dowel jig. Either
way, glue up the frames, then clamp the smaller of the three between the inside faces of
the two larger ones as in photo 3, and screw them together. Use 2" screws and predrill
holes for them. Next take this frame and clamp it to the underside of the top as shown in
photo 4. Use 2-1/2" screws to secure the frame and top together as shown, again
predrilling for the screws.
Photo 3- Screw together the three frames that make up the base.

Lastly screw the two feet onto the bottom of the two side frames. The function of these is
primarily to give you an easy area to clamp to for securing the table to your bench top.

Photo 4- Screw the base to the table top through the top rails as shown, and lastly screw
the feet onto the bottom rails.