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Tips

Ensure the chain is lubed well

No visible scratches on the fairings

Mirrors aren't very tight but bolted tight

Check for instrumentation panel & surrounding for scratches

Check if the instrumentation is working as per the buttons

Do look for abnormal gaps in the fairings

Check the engine undercowl's front beak; some display/test bikes have had it split open

Ask for topped up coolant

Ensure vehicle can be locked properly

Ensure all the engine kill, light switches & brake lights are working. Check at least 2-3 times

Check for rusts anywhere on the metal parts (Frame, forks, brake pedal)

Check for first aid kit

Check for tool kit & number of pieces 9 pieces

Ensure that the alloy wheels are balanced (there should be weights on the alloy wheels) or
ask those guys

Saree guard is available as standard with the bike

Invoice copy

Insurance copy

Pollution under control sticker

Ensure that RC book & tax token will be delivered in specific number of dayS

Why the RPM level goes beyond the optimal level, say about 2000 during intial start?
Once the engine is started, the igniton chain will be open loop, means it cant sense the exhaust gas
to measure the fuel and air mixture level. Hence it takes more air and burn fuel which also acts as
auto-choke mechanism which helps to avoid cold start issue.

How much time should I keep engine idle before engaging the gear when I start in morning
(cold start) ?
Wait till the RPM level reaches 1400 +/- 100. The time it takes to reach this optimal level during
Winter will be more than the time it takes during summer.

Why this idle time is required?


This is to ensure that the oil flows across all parts of the engine and lubricate each and every part of
the engine. Also to let the engine reach the optimal temperature for the best performance.

Can I keep the engine idling with side stand on?


Yes, you can.

Can I do Teflon coating on my bike? Is it really worth the bucks i spend?


The Teflon coating which is mentioned by ASCs is nothing but polishing to give shiny finish. It is not
worth the money spend to get it done by ASC. Instead we can get a car/bike polish to give same
shine for reasonable price which can be purchased from any automobile accesorries shop.

Run-In/Break-In Period as suggested by our Members.

Ajay Manohar:
Don't rip your bike when it is brand new. We all know and have heard about the Motoman method,
but CBR is not fit to undergo Motoman method as of now. At the same time, do not stick to dealer's
"Under 4k RPM". I followed this pattern, others might also be able to benefit.
Upto 800 kms - Below 5k RPM, with short bursts of 6k RPM limit, once in every 100 kms, each burst
lasting for 30sec-1min. i.e., Overall, keep the RPM below 5k, and once you have completed 100kms,
then rev upto 6k RPM and hold it for 30sec-60secs. Once done, go back to riding below 5k RPM and
when you complete the next 100 kms, repeat the above procedure.
From 800-1400 kms - Below 6.5k RPM, with 7k RPM burst every 50 km interval
From 1400-1550/1600 kms - Below 7k RPM with 7.5k-8k burst every 25-30 kms.
Beyond 1600kms - Its outright orgasm, just redline when ever you want.
And most importantly, make sure till you achieve your redline capability, you keep varying the RPM.
DO NOT FIX the bike on one RPM constantly. I am no expert, but this did help me. My bike is from
the earliest batches of CBR, and to date(touchwood) I have no problem whatsoever with the engine.
I am sure many have followed this technique.

Diwagar Vythilingam:
Follow as instructed in the manual. For intial 500 kms which you can extend upto 1000kms/ till first
service, be gentle during acceleration or decellarion. Dont RIP the bike. No need to restrict the RPM
limit but be gentle with your acceleration. This is to ensure that during intial run the engine parts will
leave a lot of minute scraps rubbing eachother. If you rip the bike, the scraps might leave scartch
marks in polished areas of the engine and will lead to performance and fuel economy degradation.
Later during first service, change the oil as well as oil filter and then gradually you can start ripping if
required. IMHO, the engineers who designed our bike knows it very well than anyone else out there,
including myself.

Sharat Aaryan:
The method is well explained by both of them over here. Just to add to it, never use the fully
synthetic oil before the engine is completely seasoned. I did change my oil and oil filter at 50kms, the
again on 300kms, the next at 750kms and 1200kms in the 1st service all being semi synthetic. And
shifted to fully synthetic only after 3200kms on the bike.

BATTERY PROTECTION.
I am adding this because i faced a problem with my battery. And i think it was because i used to turn
off the engine at signals but not switch off the bike..... By this i mean to say that the radiator would
continue running... this could probably have been the reason or alternatively the battery itself was
defective. So just as a precautionary measure when u stop at signals, do turn off your vehicle
completely!
Happy riding! :-)

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