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"Babette'sFeast"
AtasteofTheaterOobleck'suniqueculinarytourdeforce

ByLEAHA.ZELDES
FoodEditorofInTheLoop

IsakDinesendidnotprovidetherecipesforthedishesnamedin``Babette'sFeast,''herpoignanttaleofa
FrenchchefforcedtofleeParistoNorwayinthelate19thcentury.ThemembersofTheaterOobleck,whose
soldoutdinnertheateradaptationofthestoryiscurrentlyplayingattheLunarCabaret,2827N.Lincoln
Ave.,Chicago,werethereforeforcedtocreatetheirown.

Thecastoftheplaypreparesallofthefood,whichtheyservetotheaudienceinthecourseofthe
performance.

``IwasverypassionateintermsofthefoodbeingclassicFrenchfood,''saysTeriaGartelos,whoplays
Babette,andwastheprimaryresearcherofthemenu,whichincludesthetroupe'sownversionsofblinis
Demidof,caillesensarcophagesandturtlesoup.

ThereisnoclassicFrenchrecipecalledblinisDemidof.Blinisarepancakes.PrinceAnatoleDemidofwasthe
husbandofNapoleon'sniecePrincessMathilde.Thedishesnamedforhimaremadewithchicken.

However,thefussmadeoverthedishinDinesen'sstory,Gartelossays,``meansthere'sgottobesomething
spectacularIfiguredifit'ssomethingspecialandit'sgotaRussianname,itmustbecaviar.''

Realfisheggsweretoocostlyforthisproduction,whereticketswere$17orpaywhatyoucan.Acast
memberrecalledamealinaRussianrestaurant.``Hesaidhe'deatenamockcaviarmadewithbeets.That's
allIneedtohear,''saysGartelos,whoispartialtobeets,anddevelopedatoppingofgingeredcarrotsand
beetsfortheyeastrisenpancakes.

Caillesensarcophageswasthemostdifficultdishtodevelop,despiteitsstraightforwardname:``quailsin
coffins.''Thecompanyconsideredthatquailwastooexpensiveandtroublesomefortheirpurposes.

``IresearchedquailsandeverythingIcouldaboutquailsandpuffpastry,''Gartelossays.``(Someone)hadan
ideaaboutchickenandmushrooms.IfoundoutthatinclassicFrenchcookingquailsarealmostalways
servedwithtruffles.''Sotheywentwithchickenandmushrooms.

``Thatrecipewaslikechildbirth,pullingthatout.Wetriedpoachingthechicken,bakingthechicken`how
dowedothis?'''Theyexperimentedwithdifferentfillings,differentsauces.

MeredithNeuman,anothercastmember,learnedtomakepuffpastryfromscratch.``Ithinksometimesit's
goodtogointothingswithoutknowingwhatyou'regettinginto,''shesays.``Ididn'tknowIwassupposedto
beafraidofpuffpastry.

``Ibasicallyhavealldaytodoit.ThefirstthingIdoistomakeallthreebatches.Theideaforthefoldingof
itIsawinabookonRussianpastry.Ijustplayedaroundwithit.''

Alayerofphyllodoughwrapsthefillingbeforeitgoesintothepastrycoffin.``Itkeepsthepuffpastryfrom
gettingsoggy,''Neumansays.``Irefertothephylloasashroud.''

Thepastryisshapedlikeacoffin,andtheplategarnishedwithablackricetombstoneandvegetableslikea
cemeterybouquet.``Thewholeideaisthattheplateshouldlookfunereal,''saysGartelos.``Wewanteditto
looklikeacrypt.''

Caillesensarcophages

``Quails''incoffins

TheaterOobleck'sversionofIsakDinesen'sironicallynameddishischickeninhomemadepuffpastry.The
groupadaptedthepastryfromNickMalgieri's``HowtoBake.''Nonpuristsorshortoftimecooksmayprefer
tosubstitutefrozenpuffpastrysheets.Therecipeshouldbestartedonedayahead.(RecipebyMeredith
Neuman,TeriaGartelosandLisaPawlikwithhelpfromDavidIsaacson,KateO'Reilly,DannyThompson
andMaxGreenberg.)

Puffpastry:

15ounces(33/4sticks)unsaltedbutter,chilledandcutin1/2inchcubes

3cupsallpurposeflour

11/2teaspoonssalt

3/4cupsicewater

Filling:

3smallchickens,cutup

HerbesdeProvence

13/4cupsdrywhitewine

1/2cuporangejuice

7teaspoonsmincedgarlic

Truffleoil

11/2onions,peeled

4or5carrots,peeledandcutlengthwise

2ribscelery,cutlengthwise

1bayleaf

1smallbunchparsley

1/2teaspoonwholepeppercorns

Salttotaste

2poundswhitebuttonmushrooms

1/2cupbutter
3shallots,minced

1/4cupsherry

1/4cupflour

Toformthesarcophages:

3eggwhites,lightlybeaten

1/2packagephyllodough,thawediffrozen

Preparethepastry:Inalargebowl,cut6tablespoons(3/4stick)ofthebutterintotheflourwithapastry
blenderuntilthebutterismoreorlessincorporated.Nowcoarselycuttheremainingbutterintotheflour
mixture,leavingmanyvisiblepiecesofbutter(about1/4inchindiametershouldbefine).

Dissolvethesaltintotheicewater.Slowlydrizzlethesaltedwaterintotheflourmixturewhiletossinggently
withafork.Whenallthewaterhasbeenevenlydistributed,therewillremainmanydrycrumbs.Don'tworry.

Emptythedoughoutontoalargepieceofplasticwrap.Byfoldingupthefoursidesofthewrapand
pressing,formarectangleofdough.Rollthedoughoutjustabitandfoldthesidesoverthemiddle,forming
apieceonethirdtheformersize.Repeat,thistimefoldingthetopandbottomtothemiddle.Thebutterand
flourwillnotyetbeworkinginharmony,soyouwillprobablyhavetousetheplasticwraptoaidyouinthe
firstfewfolds.

PuffpastryrequiresasomewhatCalvinistsubmissionofthewillandaconfidencethatlayerswillappear.
Rollthedoughoutagainandrepeatthefolding,lightlydustingwithflourbetweeneverylayer.Discardthe
plasticwrapassoonasthedoughholdstogetheronitsown.

Thedoughwillbecomeprogressivelysofterasyouworkonit,withanalmostspringytexture.After6or10
repetitionsofthefoldingandrolling,cutthedoughinto18equalpieces.Wrapeachwellinplasticwrapand
letrestintherefrigeratorforatleast2hours.

Makethefilling:Placethechickenlegsandthighsinonebakingdish,thechickenbreastsinanother.Rub
herbesdeProvenceundertheskinofthesechickenparts.Combine11/2cupsofthewinewiththeorange
juice,4teaspoonsofthegarlicandaliberalsprinklingoftruffleoil.Choptheonionhalfandaddit.Pour
overthechickenparts,coverandrefrigerateovernight.

Placethechickenwings,giblets(reservetheliverforanotheruse)andremainingpartsofthechickenina
largestockpot,coverwithcoldwaterandbringtoaboil.Skimoffthefoamthatrisestotop.Whentheliquid
isrelativelyclear,addthecarrots,celery,wholeonion,bayleaf,parsley,peppercornsandsalt.Reducethe
heat,coverandletsimmeratleast2hourstomakeaheartystock.Strain,discardthesolids,andrefrigerate
thestock.

Thenextday,preheattheovento350degrees.Skimanyfatoffthestockandpourenoughoverthe
marinatedchickentocover.Bakethechickenuntilit'stenderandthejuicesrunclear,about25minutesfor
thebreasts,alittlelongerforthelegsandthighs.

Reservethejuicesfromoneofthebakingdishes,skimmingthefatoffthetop.Skin,boneandchillthe
chicken.

Inalargeskillet,sautethemushroomsovermediumhighheatin1/4cupofthebutterandtheremaining
winewiththeshallotsandremaininggarlic.Spoonoutandreservethemushrooms.Addtothemushroom
juicesinthepanthechickenjuicesandsherry.Cookuntilreducedbyhalf.

Inamediumsaucepan,melt1/4cupbutteroverlowheatandsprinkleintheflour.Cookandstiruntillight
brown.Addthereducedjuicesandcookuntilverythick.(Thisshouldyieldabout11/2cups.)Combinethe
saucewiththechickenandmushrooms.

Assembleandbake:Cutthestackofphyllosheetsinhalfandlaybetweentwodamp,cleantowels.Lightly
dustwithflourandrolleachofthe18piecesofdoughtoadiameterof6to8inches.Setaside.Placeabout
1/2cupofthechickenmixtureintoahalfsheetofphylloandwraplikeaneggrollintoaneat,tightpackage.
Placethephyllowrappedchickenontherolleddough,andbrushtheeggwhitearoundit.

Foldthebottomofthedoughupontothephyllotoformthe``foot''ofthecoffin.Thenfoldupthesidesand
topofthedough,pinchingittogethertomakeacrossshapeonthetop.Repeatforeachsarcophage.Cover
andchillintherefrigeratorfor1hour.

Preheattheovento450degrees.Brushthepastrywitheggwhiteandbakefor15minutes,ortillgolden
brown.18servings.

BlinisDemidofal'Oobleck

Yeastedpancakeswithgingeredcarrotsandbeets

TheaterOobleckadaptedtheblinirecipefromSheilaLukins'``AllAroundtheWorldCookbook.''The
toppingistheirown.

1teaspoonsactivedryyeast

23/4cupsallpurposeflour

31/4cupswarmmilk

4eggs,separated

1/4teaspoonsalt

3/4inchchunkfreshgingerroot,grated

4mediumbeets,topsremoved

6to7teaspoonspreparedhorseradish

1tablespooncidervinegar

2tablespoonsorangejuice

1/2teaspoonsugar

1cupgratedcarrots

Clarifiedbutter

Saltandpeppertotaste

Sourcream

Inalargebowl,stirtogethertheyeast,1/2cupoftheflourand2cupsofthemilk.Coverandsetasideina
warmplacefor30minutes.Lettheremainingmilkcooltolukewarm.
Beattheeggyolksandstirintotheyeastmixturewiththeremainingmilkandflourandthe1/4teaspoonsalt.

Beattheeggwhitestostiffpeaksandfoldintothebatter.Coverandletrestinawarmplacetorisefor1
hour.

Cookthebeetstilltenderinalargepotofboiling,saltedwater.Peel,thengrateorchopthebeetsand
combinethemwiththehorseradish,vinegar,orangejuiceandsugar.Setasidetherefrigerator.

Meanwhile,inalargeskilletoverlowheat,sautethegingerandcarrotsinclarifiedbuttertilljustwarmed
through.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Letcool.

Fold3/4cupofthecooledcarrotmixtureintotheblinibatter.

Heatanonstickskillet,brushlightlywithclarifiedbutterandcookafewbliniatatime.Makethem3to4
inchesindiameter.Cookfor1to11/2minutes,thenflipandcooktheothersideabout1minute,untilpuffed
andgolden.

Servewarm,toppedwithsourcreamandthecarrotbeetmixture.Makesabout40blini,10to15servings.

SoupealatortuealaLouisianne

Turtlesoup

TeriaGartelos'recipeismodeledafterthatservedatrestaurantssuchasBrennan'sinNewOrleans.

Stock:

3poundsturtlemeat(availablefromspecialtybutcherssuchasWildGameInc.)

31/2quartswater

2bayleaves

2teaspoonscayennepepper

2tablespoonssalt

2ribscelery

4clovesgarlic

1onion

Corianderseed,peppercornsanddriedherbs(basil,marjoram,rosemaryandthyme)totaste

Soup:

11/2cupsbutter

2cupschoppedleeks,whitepartonly

11/2cupsflour
1/2cuptomatopuree

1cupsherry

1/2cupworcestershiresauce

3eggs,hardboiled,chopped

1/2cupchoppedparsley

Juiceof1/2lemon

Preparethestock:Inalargestockpot,covertheturtlewiththewaterandbringtoaboil.Skimthefoamthat
risestothetopuntiltheliquidrunsalmostclear.Addtheremainingstockingredients,reducetheheat,cover
andsimmertillyouhaveanice,heartystock,atleast2hours.

Strainandrefrigeratetheliquid.Removetheturtlemeatfromthebonescubeandchillthemeat.Discardthe
remainingsolids.

Makethesoup:Inalargepot,meltthebutteroverlowheatandaddtheleekscookslowlyuntiltheleeksare
transparent.Whiskintheflouruntilthick.Addthetomatoandcook5minutes.

Skimanyfatoffthetopoftheturtlestockandadd10cupsofittotheleekmixture,alongwiththesherryand
worcestershire.Cook15minutes.Addtheturtlemeatandtheeggsandsimmer12moreminutes.Stirinthe
parsleyandlemonjuiceandserve.15servings.

TheaterOobleckalsomakesavegetarianversionwithoutanycookingalcohol:substitute2poundschopped
buttonmushroomsand1poundchoppedportobellamushroomsfortheturtle.Addachoppedappleandpear
tothestock,andsubstitute1/2cupcidervinegarforthesherry.

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