Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
Introduction...................................................................................................................... 2
Appendix........................................................................................ 348
Glossary................................................................................. 369
Resources............................................................................... 385
Acknowledgments......................................................................... 386
Contributors.................................................................................. 387
Index.................................................................................................. 388
Foreword
Ive been known to saythat if I ever won the lottery, the first thing I would do is
have all of my furniture upholstered in beautiful patterned fabric. And if I had my
first choice of upholsterers, that person would be Amanda Brown.
When I was younger, I thought of upholstery as something only fancy or stuffy
people had done. I remembered all of the scratchy formal couches my grandparents
had and couldnt imagine ever being interested in such a thing. But in 2003, every-
thing changed. I moved to Brooklyn, started immersing myself in the design world,
and was blown away by all of the beautiful textile designs coming out from younger
artists. Their fabrics were affordable, fun, and the opposite of stuffy. But unfortu-
nately, no one seemed to be doing anything with them other than making pillow
after pillow. Then I discovered Spruce.
Amanda Brown led the wave of upholsterers who started looking at found and
vintage furniture and reimagining it with bold, contemporary fabrics. In Amandas
skillful hands, old sofas, chairs, and ottomans were transformed into hip new fur-
niture for younger families, and the community noticed. Spruce may have started
as a local Austin business, but the influence of Amandas work and taste has spread
across the country.
Whether youre looking to reupholster your very first thrift store score or want
to tackle every piece of furniture in your home, Amanda can teach you how. But she
doesnt stop there. Her ideas for combining different fabrics and using found materi-
als like vintage embroideries will open your eyes to all of the incredible ways you can
give your old or used furniture new life. Trust Amanda. Shes been teaching students
to reupholster for years now and youre all about to get a master class from a seriously
talented and tastemaking master.
Grace Bonney,
founder of Design* Sponge
A New Pair
of Slippers
Making and
Attaching the
Skirt and Back
Scroll Panels
I agree, the days of ruffled skirtshave passed, but it doesnt mean a well-tailored skirt cant
add a bit of sophistication to a piece of furniture. Although these slipper chairs would look equally
as dashing without a skirt, Ive decided to attach one to minimize the legginess in the room and
add a little variation. On rockers or furniture with unsightly legs, a skirt may be a necessity, so
pay attention, even if youre skipping the skirt.
Supplies
Ruler
White or yellow chalk or water-soluble
fabric marker
Cardboard tack strip
Pencil
Paper
Fabric
Square
Yardstick
Scissors
Decking material
Welt cord stick (optional)
slipper chair
1. As we discussed earlier, well staple the skirt
to the top edge of the wooden beam around
the bottom of the chair (see step 1 illustration,
page 95). Since this beam is 1" thick, make sev-
eral marks 1" above the bottom edge around the
perimeter of the chair. Use a piece of cardboard
Ch. 11: Making and Attaching the Skirt and Back Scroll Panels
tack strip and chalk to connect the marks with a
line all the way around the chair. Since my fab-
ric is white and yellow chalk doesnt come out of
the fabric completely, Im using a water-soluble
marker to draw the line.
2. Measure from the floor to the marked line 3. Measure and write down the distance between
above every leg and record the measurements on each of the four legs.
a piece of paper.
31" 23"
19" 19"
Ch. 11: Making and Attaching the Skirt and Back Scroll Panels
5" 5"
5. A small skirt flap called a kick pleat
will cover each leg and attach behind
5" 5"
the split in the skirt panels. Well
make them all 5" wide. The ones over
front kick back kick
pleats (2) pleats (2) the front legs will be the same height
as the front skirt flap, while the back
panels will be the same height as the
back flap.
33" 25"
back
back
21" 21"
slipper chair
6" front panel
Ch. 11: Making and Attaching the Skirt and Back Scroll Panels
the backs of the skirts.
19" 19"
33"
614"
Front
25"
6"
Back
21" 21"
6" 614" 614" 6"
Left Right
6" 6"
Front
1112" 11" Back
corner
corner
(2)
(2)
8. Well match the pattern from the tack band accommodate the " wrap around to the back of
to the skirt panels. The front and back flaps will the skirt flaps. Corner panels can be drawn any-
be centered over the same part of the pattern as where theres room since theyre barely visible.
the seat, inside and outside back. For matching
the skirt flaps to the right and left sides of the
tack band and boxing, use the illustration from 9. Cut out all fabric pieces, including enough
chapter 8, step 5 (page 96) as a reference. Well single welt cord to reach around the chair (80")
begin the front edges of the side skirt flaps " (see Sewing Tips and Tricks, page 358). Cut the
closer to the center of the fabric roll than we did decking material to the sizes noted in the illustra-
the side pieces for the boxing and tack band to tion for step 7.
Supplies
Sewing machine
Single-welt cord foot attachment
Thread
Fabric pieces cut to size
Ch. 11: Making and Attaching the Skirt and Back Scroll Panels
11. With good sides facing, pin or staple the sides 12. On the bottom edge of the skirt flap, line up
of the fabric to the sides of the decking pieces for the centers of the fabric and decking material and
the front skirt flap. With cut edges aligned, stitch stitch from one side to the other. When the bot-
the left side and then the right, and remove the tom is sewn, there should be " of fabric on each
staples or T-pins. side of the back of the skirt flap. Repeat steps 11
and 12 for the other three flaps.
slipper chair
Ch. 11: Making and Attaching the Skirt and Back Scroll Panels
13. The key to a crisp and tailored skirt is ironing. 14. Lay each flap on top of the skirt stiffener and
Turn the flaps right side out and use your fingers cut it to the size of the flap minus " in height.
to push out the corners and all the seams to the Insert the stiffener into the flaps. Its not neces-
fullest extent. Press the panels so the edges and sary to add skirt stiffener to the kick pleats.
seams are flat.
15. Well use the welt cord to hold skirt flaps 16. Continue sewing and attaching the flaps side
together side by side. Lay an end of the welt cord by side until you get back to where you started.
on top of the middle of the back skirt flap with Cut off the excess welt cord 1" past the middle of
the edge of the welt cord tail lined up with the top the back flap. Open up the ends of the welt cord
edge of the back skirt flap. Stitch from the middle fabric and cut the cording inside so the ends meet.
to the right side of the flap. When youre 1" from
the right side, lay the left skirt flap adjacent to the
back flap.
17. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the ends 18. Lay the fabric from the right side straight out
to hold them together. and around the welt cord. The fabric from the
other side should fold under and wrap around the
cording and fabric so no raw edges show.
20. Center a kick pleat over a split in the skirt 21. Slip the skirt on and line up the pattern. When
with its top edge " above the edge of the welt the skirt is positioned correctly, flip it up and sta-
cord tail and stitch across the flap. Repeat for the ple the seam allowance to the chair. As you staple,
other three kick pleats to complete the skirt sew- be sure the top edge of the cording is lined up
ing. Attach the kick pleat " higher than the other with the marked line from step 1.
flaps to make sure they hang slightly above the
bottom edge of the four main flaps. You could cut
the kick pleats so theyre " shorter, but I find it 22. After stapling, go back and attach cardboard
easier to adjust the height this way. tack strip on top of the seam allowance. Push the
cardboard into the welt cord to get a tight connec-
tion between the skirt and chair.
slipper chair
floors, increase that distance to 1/2". When
furniture sits on carpet, the weight pushes
the legs through the fluff, causing the skirt to
touch the ground.
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
Ch. 11: Making and Attaching the Skirt and Back Scroll Panels
shoot for this chair, the dragon rug hadnt
been completed, so I made the skirt as if the
chairs would be sitting on the hardwoods.
When the rug arrived, I laid out my furniture
as planned and realized I had goofed! The
29. Line up the panels in the correct location and front legs sit on the carpet, causing the
use the rubber mallet to gingerly tap the nails into skirts to graze the floor oops! So this pair
the wood. Work in small increments by tapping made another trip back to Spruce for a skirt
all the nails from top to bottom in " at a time. adjustment.
Continue hammering, little by little, until the MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
panels are flush to the wooden frame. Use the air
blower to dust off the chair and you are finished!
the finished
chair!
Spread Your
Wings
Upholstering the
Inside Back
In addition to horsehairand steel webbing, I also found coil springs when I stripped this
chair. Its rare to find pieces with coil-sprung backs, and when you do, its a sign of great qual-
ity. Tying coil springs in the back is very similar to tying springs in the seat. Because the back
does not provide as much support as the seat, the springs are less firm, smaller, and only need
to be tied vertically and horizontally to stay in place. I also use a lightweight jute twine since the
springs are thin and easily held in place with thinner rope. If you are upholstering arms that
require no seaming, follow the steps from this chapter to complete them.
2. Pull the webbing to the top of the inside back 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to staple all horizontal
and over the teeth of the webbing stretcher. strips. Because the support beams at the top and
Leverage the stretcher against the frame and bottom of the back are recessed behind the beams
staple as you stretch the webbing tightly. Leave on the left and right, Im pulling the horizontal
the webbing connected to the roll until youve strips of webbing behind the vertical ones instead
attached both ends to the chair, and then cut 2" of weaving back and forth. This method pushes
beyond the staples at the top of the chair. Fold the vertical strips forward so the inside back isnt
over and staple the excess down. Because the back concave.
needs less support, its acceptable to leave small
gaps between the strips. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until
all vertical rows are stapled.
4. Lay the chair on its back and evenly space the 5. Repeat steps 1834 (pages 3439) to tie the
back springs on the webbing. Use the Klinch-It springs with a domed shape. Since back springs
tool to attach the springs to the webbing (page are smaller and less resistant, use cheaper, light-
237) or hand-sew springs to the webbing with a weight spring twine for tying.
button needle and button twine (page 32).
wingback chair
the Inside Back
Supplies
Measuring tape
Burlap
Scissors
8. Before attaching Dacron, hand-sew bridle ties, 9. Measure the largest width and height of the
if necessary (step 8, page 178). Cut a sheet of inside back and add 4"6" to each dimension for
Dacron large enough to cover the inside back. Pull pulling and stapling (26" wide 37" tall).
it through the bottom and staple it to the top of the
outside back. Trim the excess from the sides so
they barely tuck into the pull-through space. Trim
off the excess Dacron at the bottom and just past
the staples at the top.
wingback chair
Ch. 17: Upholstering the Inside Back
37" Inside back fabric
A
6"
26"
10. We already determined the pattern placement top and bottom for pulling and stapling. At the
on the inside back when we cut out the deck fabric bottom, add 3" to reach the deck and 3" for pulling
(see page 165). Since the marks we made in that through the bottom and stapling. At the top, add
illustration denoted the edges of the visible fabric 1" for pulling and stapling. Draw lines to indicate
(from the top of the cushion to the top edge of the the edges of the inside back fabric.
inside back), we need to add a few inches to the
11. Cut out the fabric and drape it over the inside 12. Perform release cuts around the bars at the
back. Center the dragon between the arms and bottom and top of the inside back. Fold under
sub-staple 1" of fabric to the top of the outside the excess fabric where the inside back meets the
back. Tightly pull the fabric through the bottom top of the wings and staple to the outside back.
and sub-staple. The distance from the deck to Continue sub-stapling the fabric on all four sides.
mark A should be 3". Make adjustments to the Double-check the pattern placement, and then
vertical positioning of the fabric until the pattern replace sub-staples with permanent staples.
is correctly placed, and then sub-staple the mid-
dles of the right and left sides.
Theres a fine balance to be struck between eco- for the last 20 years. For other projects, I rec-
friendly, economical, and long-lasting uphol- ommend starting fresh with padding you know
stery. Over the years, Ive done a lot of research is clean. Here are some tips for combining eco-
in an effort to provide clients with the most friendly and modern upholstery materials to
affordable and healthy options for their homes. achieve a happy medium.
In a perfect world, traditional upholstery materi-
als, such as horsehair, would be applied with the
techniques developed by our upholstery ances- Research foam options
tors. But the time and cost associated with these From natural rubber to polyurethane foam, the
methods and materials are cost-prohibitive for options are vast. Natural latex foams are long-
most people. When considering how to pad lasting and the most eco-friendly, but are also
your furniture, ask yourself these questions: costly. If youre on a tight budget, choose a syn-
thetic foam without the added chemicals that
1. How much use will this piece get, and how can jeopardize the health of your home.
long do I expect it to last?
wingback chair
the finished
chair!
1. Size. Larger patterns are displayed well on furniture with a lot of surface area. On a chair like
the Louis chair, only the dragon head would fit on the inside back, and while the head is striking,
its far less impressive without its body. For smaller pieces, go for a smaller scale pattern or a
large print with an allover abstract design instead of one main attraction.
2. Cost. On a budget? Remember that large-scale patterns require more yardage. For this
wingback, we used 12 yards of fabric when 8 would be sufficient with a small pattern or solid. A
great way to go bold without going broke is to cover the inside of a piece with a solid and the
outside with a pattern, or vice versa.
3. Focal point. Use pattern to draw attention to a particular part of a room or connect sev-
eral pieces of furniture by using a multicolored fabric that ties them all together, as we did in
this room.
Three-Seater
Tune-Up
inside back
(behind cushions)
seat cushion
front boxing
deck
tack band
outside back
three-seater sofa
Ch. 20: Determining Yardage for Railroaded Fabric
2. Dont forget to measure at the largest parts of 3. Well measure the deck and tack band as one
each fabric piece. The width of the deck begins piece. The front portion of the deck thats covered
just inside the left arm and ends at the right arm with the fabric begins 4" behind the front edge of
(74"). the sofa and the tack band ends at the bottom edge
of the sofa (11").
4. Start where the inside arm meets the inside 5. Measure from the deck to the top of the inside
back and measure to the front edge of the sofa to arm for the height (17").
get the width of the inside arm (33").
Padding a
Straight Deck
The journey to padding and upholsteringthe deck is often a long and labor-intensive process.
There are hours of stripping, being covered from head to toe in dirt and dust, sweating, and flex-
ing muscles. And then theres the marathon of spring tying. Fear not: Youve already wrestled
your way through the backbreaking work. Now its time for padding, fabric, and seeing the sofa
come back to life.
Since the cushion will do most of the work keeping the seat comfortable, well apply a light
layer of padding on the deck, as opposed to the thick padding we attached to the seats in projects
1 and 2.
Supplies
Measuring tape
Burlap
Scissors
Goggles
Staple gun
3/8" staples
Permanent marker
2. Measure from the tacks on the left to the ones 3. Center the burlap over the springs and staple
on the right side to determine the width of the the front middle, being careful to avoid tacks as
burlap. Add 4" to the depth and width for pull- you staple.
ing and stapling, and then cut out a piece to these
dimensions. Staples should be placed around the seat on
the top face of the frame where we attached
the tacks for spring tying. Tacks deflect
staples, so staple around them to avoid flying
metal and sparks.
4. After stapling the front middle, pull the burlap 5. Fold under the burlap on either side of the post
tightly to the back middle. Since I have a wooden and staple. When the front and back middles are
post in the way of my burlap, Ill make a Y-cut secured, staple the middles of the right and left
to release the burlap around it (see page 44 for sides.
release cut instructions).
three-seater sofa
Ch. 22: Padding a Straight Deck
6. Staple the rest of the front, back, left, and right 7. Trim the excess burlap to 2", fold back, and
sides (in that order). As you staple, make cuts to staple again.
release the burlap around wooden posts that are
in the way.
Supplies
Sewn welt cord
Goggles
Staple gun
1/2" staples
Ch. 26: Attaching the Outside Back and Completing the Sofa Frame
Scissors
Painters or masking tape
Measuring tape
Dustcover
Cardboard tack strip
White or yellow chalk
22. For the rest of the steps, flip the sofa upside
down. Staple the welt cord made in step 3 around
the bottom edge of the sofa, starting at the back
middle. When you begin, leave an extra 1" of
cording, which well connect to the other side at
the end.
23. Use your forefinger and thumb to line up 24. Continue stapling around the bottom edge of
the edge of the cording with the wooden edge of the sofa until youre 2" from where you started.
the sofa frame. Pre-bend corners before stapling Cut off the excess cording 1" past the middle.
them down and cut out the excess fabric to mini-
mize bulk.
three-seater sofa
Ch. 26: Attaching the Outside Back and Completing the Sofa Frame
25. Open up the seams of the stitched cording 26. Wrap a piece of tape around the ends of the
about 3" on both ends to expose the cord inside. cords to connect them together.
Lay the raw cords (without fabric) side-by-side and
cut through both so they meet.
27. Lay the fabric from one side straight out and 28. Cut a piece of dustcover large enough to cover
around the cording. Fold under the fabric on the the bottom of the sofa with an additional 3" in
other side and wrap it around the fabric and cord- width and height for pulling and stapling. Center
ing so no raw fabric or cording shows. Finish the the dustcover over the front edge of the sofa and
welt cord by stapling the connected ends to the sofa. staple " of its front edge on top of the welt cord
tail. Reinforce this first stapled edge by pushing
cardboard tack strip into the welt cord and sta-
pling it on top of the dustcover.
29. Before we continue stapling the dustcover, 30. Pull the dustcover tightly to the backside of
staple cardboard tack strip into the welt cord on the sofa and make release cuts around the legs.
the other three sides. This keeps the welt cord Since these legs are a few inches from the edges
tight to the frame. of the sofa, Ill cut an X in the dustcover to make a
square hole for the legs to poke through.
31. Slip the dustcover over the legs and pull it to 32. To prevent the release cut flaps from falling
the backside of the frame. Pull tightly enough to out, staple the dustcover around the legs. Flip over
smooth out the dustcover without stretching it out. the sofa and admire the finished frame.
Fold the dustcover under so the folded edge meets
the welt cord, and then staple it down. Continue
folding under and stapling until the entire back-
side is stapled. Repeat this step to attach the right
and left sides.
three-seater sofa
Case of the Disappearing Scissors
If doctors can sew up a patient with forceps inside, imagine how easy it is to close up a
sofa with tools left in the inside back or under the dustcover. The first piece of furniture I
ever upholstered was finished with a pair of scissors inside. When I turned the chair over
to admire my hard work, the loud metal clanking against the frame startled me. Since then,
Ialways do a spot check before closing up my project.
Ch. 26: Attaching the Outside Back and Completing the Sofa Frame
three-seater sofa Frame complete
Always leave
room for
adding to your
collection of
knickknacks.
Pillows
connect colors,
patterns, and
textures across
the room.