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C OLLECTORS E DITION : P R

P
P RR
Winter 2006

PRO
P R
PRO O

Cove-cutting Jig
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Dual Router Table
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Deluxe Drum Sander
DualRouter
Dual RouterTableTable
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64

0 71486 02123 0
SIP_WP2.02 10/20/05 3:08 PM Page 2
SIP_WP2.03 10/20/05 3:08 PM Page 3

DESIGNED FOR PROFESSIONALS. BUILT FOR GENERATIONS.


Nothing compares to the ruggedness of DELTA professional-grade woodworking machinery.
With leading research and precision manufacturing, we take as much pride in our work as
you do in yours. That's why DELTA is the name you can count on. Time after time. Visit
deltamachinery.com for more details or to join our DELTA Owner's Group.
SIP_WP2.04 10/28/05 4:13 PM Page 4

Page 56 Workshop Projects Winter 2006

6 Editors Note
By Larry Stoiaken
Its winter ... time to get in the
workshop zone.

8 A Jig For All Reasons


By Chris Marshall
Our Special Projects editor covers jigs
from top to bottom.

16 Workshop Classic:
A Bench You Can Rely On
Page 28 Multi-functional
28 Routing System

36 Sandpaper Caddy
Page 8
48 The Ultimate
Clamping Station
56 Trapped Wedge
Layout Gauge

60 Deluxe Drum Sander

64 Dovetail Puzzle Mallet


72 The Most Versatile
Shelf-pin Jig
Page
48 76 Build Accurate Dadoes
... In A Hurry

Page 16
Page 64

Page
Page 36
72

Page 60
4
SIP_WP2.05 10/20/05 3:09 PM Page 5

R ING Ti
TU C

o

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HI-

E
EN

D
I

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S ITY CARB

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Freud SBOX8 A Non-Freud


Freud's engineers have done it again. They have invented
Box Joint Standard
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to cut perfectly square, chip-free, flat-bottom box joints,
without shims or awkward adjustments.
Square Box Joints Every Time
A precision box joint is ideal for drawers, jewelry boxes, humidors and
other projects where strength and appearance are critical. In the past,
creating box joints usually required a dado set, router bit, or several cuts
with a single flat-top saw blade, which are all time consuming, expensive
and don't guarantee flawless results. Freud's new Box Joint Cutter Set
features a unique tooth rake design that cuts perfectly square, clean pins
and slots through the end grain. Plus, Freud's unique TiCo Hi-Density
Carbide was developed and manufactured by Freud specifically for the
Install blades back to back for 1/4" box joints
box joint application ensuring a perfect finish and extra long cutting life.
Fast, Easy Set-up
Simply install the 8 diameter, 5/8 arbor blades on your table saw back to
back for 1/4 box joints, or face to face for 3/8 box joints. Follow the
instructions included to build a jig to use with your table saws miter
gauge for completing finished joints. Just cut, flip, glue and clamp and
youre doneits that easy.
Choose the ONLY table saw box joint set on the market todaychoose
Freud. Whether youre a woodworking enthusiast or full-time professional,
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Install blades face to face for 3/8" box joints To find a dealer near you visit: www.freudtools.com (US) 1-800-472-7307 (Canada) 1-800-263-7016
SIP_WP2.06 11/3/05 9:53 AM Page 6

WINTER 2006
woodworkersjournal.com

LARRY N. STOIAKEN Editor in Chief


In the Workshop Zone
ROB JOHNSTONE Editor
JOANNA WERCH TAKES Associate Editor
JEFF JACOBSON Art Director
JOE FAHEY Associate Art Director
A nother long Minnesota winter is in full swing. Some folks in this
part of the country would prefer to sleep the winter away, but for
me things are just heating up in the shop. In fact, the harder it snows
and the colder it gets, the more I enjoy hunkering down in the shop and
ANN ROCKLER JACKSON Publisher
cutting wood. Without grass to cut, a ballgame to catch or the lure of a
bass on the other end of my line, Im
CHARLA SCOFIELD Circulation Director
more focused and creative you could
KELLY ROSAAEN Circulation Coordinator
say Im in the workshop zone. Sleep
SARAH M. GREER Advertising &
Production Director
it away? Not likely!
Maybe its snowing where you are,
ALYSSA TAUER Advertising Assistant
too, but dont let the shop grow cold.
Special Projects Editor Chris Marshall
Special Projects Editor and I have assembled a great collection
CHRIS MARSHALL
of workshop projects in this
Woodworkers Journal Special Issue.
Contributing Editors
For starters, if youre in the mood for
MICHAEL DRESDNER
MIKE MCGLYNN
some serious building, weve got three
RICK WHITE reader-favorite fixture projects that
should satisfy. Treat yourself to a
Classic Cabinetmakers Workbench,
ADVERTISING SALES complete with end vise, three drawers and a storage cabinet (page 16).
J.F. Van Gilder Company If youre lucky enough to actually have too many clamps, have a look at
P.O. BOX 802405, Dallas Texas 75380
The Ultimate Clamping Station on page 48. Itll keep all your assembly
DAVID BECKLER david@jvgco.com
supplies neatly stowed in one place. Theres also a Multi-functional
JIM VAN GILDER jim@jvgco.com
Routing System on page 28 that includes built-in dust collection, a
Phone: (972) 392-1892
Fax: (972) 392-1893
removable top and wheels for portability.
Maybe large-scale projects arent on the menu right now. Weve got
SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES some lighter fare here as well. Sometimes, all it takes are a few choice
(800) 765-4119 or scraps to build the functional and attractive Trapped Wedge Layout
www.woodworkersjournal.com Gauge (page 56). Or, add a custom mallet to your collection of hand
Write Woodworkers Journal, P.O. Box tools when you build the Dovetail Puzzle Mallet on page 64.
56585, Boulder, CO 80322-6585. E-mail: Weve also got a few clever jigs in this issue to help speed general
woodworkersjournal@neodata.com. machine tasks along. Editor Rob Johnstone took a time-tested cabinet
Include mailing label for renewals
shop favorite and added a few bells and whistles to design his Router
and address changes.
Dadoing Jig (see page 76). Then add our Versatile Shelf-pin Jig (page 72),
For gift subscriptions, please include your
and youll have a great tag team to build casework projects more effi-
name and address in addition to your gift
recipients name and address.
ciently than ever.
Finally, even sanding can have its bright side. Our Sandpaper Caddy
on page 36 will keep your sanding disks tidy and easier to load on your
BACK ISSUES & REPRINTS
Woodworkers Journal or Todays Woodworker
sander. The Deluxe Drum Sander (page 60) should make shorter work
www.woodworkersjournal.com of curved sanding and help you get more mileage from your drill press.
So, throw on a sweater, crank up the heater and get going. With wood-
Workshop Projects is published by Rockler working this good, Im in no hurry for spring.
Press Inc., 4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN See you in the zone,
55340. Single copy price, $5.99 (U.S.); $8.99
(Canada/other countries). Reproduction
without permission prohibited.
Printed in the USA.

WEB SITE: www.woodworkersjournal.com


2005 Rockler Press Inc., Printed in USA.

6
SIP_WP2.07 10/21/05 10:03 AM Page 7

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SIP_WP2.08 10/21/05 4:48 PM Page 8

A Jig for All


Reasons
By Chris Marshall

When it comes to improving


safety and accuracy, making
tasks repeatable or expanding
tool versatility, nothing beats
a good jig.

T
o a non-woodworker, a bin of scraps or coffee
can full of odd hardware is probably fodder
for next weeks trash. But these sorts of tidbits
are like gold nuggets to a woodworker
theyre the stuff jigs are made of. While its true that our
woodworking machines are chock-full of helpful fea-
tures, they only take us so far. Once you move beyond Ten minutes of set-up time and two sticks of scrap can turn your table
saw and standard blade into an effective shaper for making cove
basic machine operations, jigs are virtually indispens- molding. Heres a job thats impossible to do on a router table.
able. Most projects involve at least one unusual or
advanced operation that requires a bit of modified
technique or machine use. When these instances come many jigs as you do projects (maybe even more!).
up, its time to reach for a good jig. Thats because jigs serve numerous purposes. For one,
jigs improve tool accuracy. T r y cutting a circle
Improving Accuracy and Repeatability freehand with a router, and youll learn quickly that
If youre just starting out as a woodworker, welcome without a jig to guide the tool, you wont have a fighting
to the world of jigsyoull probably cobble together as chance. Mount the router to a long piece of scrap, use a

Repetitive tasks, like continues on page 10 ...


drilling shelf pin holes,
are faster and easier to
carry out with a jig
than by measuring and
marking each hole.
Plus, the jig all but
eliminates
measurement errors.

A piece of scrap and a nail turns a router into an accurate circle cutter
by limiting the tools cutting path.

8 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.09 10/28/05 1:55 PM Page 9

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SIP_WP2.10 10/21/05 4:49 PM Page 10

A piloted flush-cutting bit and a notched template make hinge A shop-made tenoning jig offers multiple advantages: it stabilizes end
mortising a breeze with a router. The jig builds repeatability and cuts on long workpieces, improves accuracy and keeps your hands out
uniformity into the process. of harms way. Nothing makes tenon-cutting easier.

nail to pivot the jig on one end andvoila! Perfect measurement errors to flub the process up. Your drill
circles every time with a stone-simple jig. Need to rip a never measured so well.
straight line across a sheet of plywood with a circular Machine-made joinery is an exercise in futility unless
saw? Its tough to do guiding the tool by eye, but clamp each step of the machining process can be carefully
a piece of flat-edged stock on top and suddenly your controlled and repeated. All it takes is a registration pin
circular saw has a reference edge to follow. It will slice mounted to a scrap wood fence on your table saws
a line so straight youll think you cut it with a laser. miter gauge to create perfectly spaced pins and slots
Along the same lines, jigs make tasks repeatable. for finger joints. Attach a fence to a piece of plywood
Henry Ford taught us that repeatability is the key to with a slot cut in the middle and suddenly you have a
improving productivity. If youve got a kitchens worth simple way to make router-cut mortises for mortise
of cabinet doors to hang, a hinge-mortising jig and a and tenon joints. In both cases, jigs limit the cutting
router are hours faster than the sharpest chisel in even path, which improves control and makes precise
the most skilled hand, and each mor tise will be repetition possible.
identical, thanks to the jig. Same goes for drilling shelf
pin holes. Rather than measure, mark and drill each Making Tools Work Even Harder
hole separately, use a scrap of pegboard clamped to the Aside from improving accuracy or building
cabinet wall for a drilling jig. No guesswork or repeatability into the machining process, the right jig
can squeeze every ounce of versatility from your tools.
Theres no denying that straight rip cuts are a table
saws bread and butter, but a shop-made tapering or
panel-raising jig takes rip-cutting to a whole new level.
Suddenly straight cuts arent limited to workpieces
laying flat or following the fence. You can even clamp a
pair of fences at an angle to the blade to create a safe
tunnel for milling cove moldings on a table saw. A little
scrap turns a straight-cutting saw into a shaper.
In a sense, even router tables are really just oversized
jigs that turn a handheld tool into a stationary machine.
Here, a jig conver ts your router into a makeshift
molding cutter, jointer and first-rate jointmaking tool. A
similar bit of magic happens when you add a drum
sanding station to your drill press: suddenly a hole-
drilling machine morphs into a smoothing center,
without taking an inch more floor space. Its sweet
indeed when a few picks from the scrap bin or piece of
old countertop can make a good machine even better.
A jig doesnt have to be complex to be effective. Two scraps held
together with hot-melt glue and stuck to a workpiece form an effective continues on page 12 ...
and safe way to secure odd-shaped stock for deep bandsaw cuts.

10 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.11 10/28/05 1:57 PM Page 11
SIP_WP2.14 10/21/05 6:46 AM Page 14

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14 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.15 10/21/05 10:06 AM Page 15

Winter 2006 15
SIP_WP2.16 10/28/05 2:16 PM Page 16

16 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.17 10/21/05 5:07 PM Page 17

Workshop Classic:
A Bench You Can Rely On
A family tradition continues with this
no-nonsense maple workbench. Granddad he worktop on regular contrib-

would likely approve.


Four Bench Building Basics:
1. If you regularly build furniture or cabinets, the space between the last
T utor John Englishs grandfa-
thers bench was a pair of rail-
road ties with an eight-inch gap
down the middle. Granddad, who
lived in Ireland, was a skilled artisan
bench dog and the wide open vise jaw should accommodate a standard who built coaches and wagons.
five-foot base cabinet. Johns father is pretty good with
64" his hands, too. The bench in his
Dublin workshop is better suited to
the work he does refinishing
antique fur niture, tuning small
engines than Granddad's would
be. The three-inch-thick hardwood
top rests on an iron frame, but the
vise is a metalworkers and the top
2. To ensure
stability when shows scars of butane torches,
lateral force is solder and even a few er rant
exerted on it, a hammer blows.
bench should
outweigh the user The point is that a workbench is
by about 50%. personal it must match both the
work and the worker. Neither of the
benches described above would be
suitable for fine woodworking, but
42"
the model shown here is ideal for
building furniture and casework.
And its easily modified to suit an
individual craftsmans needs.
3. One row of bench dog holes should be set in
a few extra inches. This makes it a little easier to
Starting with a Few Design Basics
support doors, drawers and other large parts John built this workbench to fit
during clamping. his six-foot-tall body. The rule of
thumb is to locate the worktop at
291/2" half the height of the user (in this
case, 3538"). If you need to build it
higher or lower, simply adjust the
length of the legs (see the Leg Sub-
assembly Drawings on page 22).
The top of the bench features two
4. A good rule
of thumb is to parallel rows of bench dog holes.
353/8"
size your bench The front row is close to the edge,
so that the top is but the back row is set in a few
half as tall as the
primary user. inches to help suppor t wide
subassemblies like drawers or
cabinet doors. The top is large

Winter 2006 17
SIP_WP2.18 10/26/05 11:01 AM Page 18

20
4

7
18
1
3 2
9
1
16
2
7
6
9 19

11 17
10 13

Bench Dog Hole Layout 1


(Side View) /4"

1" Endcap
(Front View) Slotted holes
5 4 3 4"
3
2 /4"

1
8
Trim to fit 6 /4" 6" 3
/4"
43/4" 8" 61/4" 17/8"
1
/2"
3" 1
10 /8" 8 (Top View)
1
/2"
Worktop 1"
51/4" (Front View) 13/4"
12 15 16 14
17 See full-size
5"
pattern on the Pinup
Shop Drawings for 17
17 jaw profile.
Round
Vise bench dog
Leg Jaw Laminated Jaw
Subassembly location.
(Section View) Lamination
(Section View)

MATERIAL LIST (Top)


T xW x L T xW x L
1 Worktop (1) 112" x 2418" x 60" 11 Washers (14) 3 8"
ID
2 Inside Liners (2) 3/4" x 4" x 60" 12 Leg Cleats (4) 3/4" x 3/4" x 20"
3 First Spacers (2) 3/4" x 4" x 6" 13 Large End Vise (1)
4 Common Spacers (14) 3/4" x 4" x 614" 14 Vise Support Endcap Cleat (1) 3/4" x 134" x 12"
5 Last Spacers (2) 3/4" x 4" x 512" 15 Vise Support Leg Cleat (1) 3/4" x 1" x 12"
6 Outside Liners (2) 3/4" x 4" x 60" 16 Vise Support (1) 3/4" x 10" x 9"
7 Worktop Sides (2) 3/4" x 4" x 60" 17 Laminated Jaw (1) 2" x 738" x 30"
8 End Caps (2) 1" x 4" x 30" 18 Round Dogs (2) Brass
9 Spline (1) 1/2" x 1" x 30" 19 Round Dog Button (1) 312" Brass Hinge Pin
10 Lag Screws (14) 3/4" Dia. x 312" long 20 Square Dogs (2) Steel

18 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.19 10/26/05 10:24 AM Page 19

enough to clamp a standard five-


foot-long kitchen base cabinet, with
a few inches left to set down Figure 1:
tools or hardware. The spline grooves on
Before even sharpening a pencil the endcap are stopped,
while those on the ends of
for this project, make sure you have the top are through cuts.
your vise and bench dogs on hand. After routing the grooves in
Open the vise fully and measure the the top, a three-inch-wide
opening, then subtract the strip is ripped off. This piece
thickness of the jaw (see the sits outside of the liners and
spacers.
Material List on the previous page).
This is the maximum spacing you
can allow between the dog holes in
the bench top, but you may want to
downsize a little: traditional bench
builders have discovered that a
space of six or seven inches works
best for most projects.

Options for a Butcherblock Top clamp these subassemblies together in Figure 1, above.
While designing this bench, John to for m the completed piece. Rip a 3"-wide strip of f one side
recalled something from his Biscuits help to line up all these of the top and set it aside, then
days in the kitchen cabinet edges as you clamp. After the glue biscuit, glue and clamp the inside
business: one of the most common dries, take the entire piece to a liners (pieces 2) in place. Place
kitchen renovations is countertop cabinet shop and ask them to run it the worktop on a couple saw
replacement, and more and more through their wide drum sander, to horses while attaching these liners,
homeowners are discarding their reduce it to final thickness. Another so your clamps have plenty of
gorgeous old solid-maple butcher- option is to order your top glued-up room to operate.
block tops. He got lucky on his third and made to order at a local home The liners need to be flush with
phone call: a shop in the citys center. This is a little more the top of the butcherblock when
historical district sold him an eight- expensive but often results in a its finished, so its a good idea to set
"
foot-long section of 1 12 "-thick more secure and stable top. them in place a hair proud of the top
butcherblock for just $10. It took rather than shy of it.
only a few minutes of trimming to Adding the Bench Dog Holes The bench dog holes are formed
make the worktop (piece 1). He After trimming the top to size, when a series of spacers (pieces 3, 4
rough-cut the blank a bit oversized chuck a 12" rabbeting bit in your and 5) are attached to the liners.
with a circular saw, after first por table router to cut the The business edges of these
scoring with a utility knife to help spline groove in each end of the spacers are cut at a 2 angle (verify
avoid tear-out. worktop (see the Exploded Drawings this angle by reading the bench dog
Then John clamped on a on the previous page and as shown manufacturers instructions), and
straightedge and trimmed the top to theyre notched to allow the bench
final dimensions with a straight bit dogs to be stored below the work-
chucked in his router. During top surface. All of these dimensions
this process he cut across the grain are shown on the Elevation
first, then with the grain: this Drawings, and the cuts can be made
approach vir tually eliminates on a bandsaw. Dry-fit and mark the
blowout on the corners. spacer locations on the inside liners,
If you prefer to build a top from verifying each placement with a
scratch, make sure the quartersawn bench dog (see Figure 2). Score a
(tight) grain is visible, and the more shallow line about a 14" in from the
open, wavy plainsawn becomes the edge on both sides of each spacer
gluing sur face. Glue and clamp using a sharp knife or a rotary tool.
three or four overly long pieces of Figure 2: Dry-fit the bench dogs and spacers, This will create a glue well to limit
ripped and jointed stock together at leaving gaps that are the size recommended excessive squeeze-out.
a time. When theyre dry, glue and by the dogs manufacturer. When everything
fits, trim the final spacer to length.

Winter 2006 19
SIP_WP2.20 10/21/05 5:08 PM Page 20

Getting Started:
You should have the vise and bench
dogs on hand before construction
begins, in case you have to adjust the
plan to fit the hardware. Beech and hard
maple are the traditional species of
choice for the frame and top, and walnut
makes an excellent accent. During the
course of construction youll use a table
saw, biscuit joiner, band saw, drill press,
portable and table-mounted routers and
a belt sander.

Attach the spacers to the inside assembly such as the worktop, the
liners with glue and clamps. When endcaps (pieces 8) are splined and
theyre dry, you can glue and clamp attached with lag screws driven
the outside liners (pieces 6) in through oversized, slotted holes
place. Use biscuits and glue to (see the Elevations on page 18 for
attach the remaining 3"-wide marking the slotted hole locations).
butcherblock strip to one of the Chuck the rabbeting bit (the one
outside liners (see the Exploded you used earlier to create grooves in
View on page 18 for its location), the worktop ends) in your portable
then glue and clamp the worktop router and, with the workpieces
sides (pieces 7) in place. held securely, create a stopped
groove in each end cap. Then mark
Adding Splined Endcaps the locations of the lag screw holes
As woodworkers well know, wood in each groove.
has an annoying habit of shrinking T rim splines (pieces 9) to fit Figure 3: Use your drill press to bore two-step
slotted holes in the endcaps: these will allow
and swelling across the grain. To around the lag screws, then move to the benchtop to adjust to various levels of
cope with this tendency in a large the drill press to bore the two-step moisture in the workshop.

Side
(Inside View)
21/8" 15/8"

3
/4" 33/4"

3
/4"
22 24 115/8" 23
43/4"
3
/4"
Back
3
/4" 23/8" (Inside View)

34"-wide by 34"-wide by 12"-deep rabbet. Divider


12"-deep rabbet. (Inside View)

Toolbox Elevations
Set up your router table
with a 34" straight bit and 113/8" Drawer Slide
make multiple passes for (Top View)
these rabbets, grooves 21 34"-wide by
and dadoes, removing a 14"-deep 3
/8"
small amount of stock Top and Bottom dado.
with each pass. (Inside View) Chamfer one 3
/8"
end of each
drawer slide. 39

20 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.21 10/28/05 2:17 PM Page 21

29

28

21 22
26

39
24
23

30

22

21 25 27

MATERIAL LIST (Tool Box)


T xW x L
21 Toolbox Top and Bottom (2) 3/4" x 1534" x 3512"
22 Toolbox Sides (2) 3/4" x 1534" x 16"
23 Toolbox Divider (1) 3/4" x 15" x 15"
24 Toolbox Back (1) 3/4" x 16" x 36"
25 Toolbox Trim (1) 1/4" x 3/4" x 120"
26 Door (1) 3/4" x 1138" x 1434"
27 Door Stiffeners (3) 1/2" x 3/4" x 1434"
28 Hinges (2) European Style
29 Toolbox Top Trimmers (2) 3/4" x 112" x 1614"
30 Knobs (4) Brass

elongated and round lag screw holes,


as shown in Figure 3. Note that the Brace Up for Some Brackets pilot holes and screw a second cleat
endcaps are not identical, but rather Turn the benchtop upside down (piece 15) to the vise support (piece
they are mir ror images of one and mark locations for the leg cleats 16) at the location shown on the
another. Use the drilled endcaps to (pieces 12), using the dimensions on Elevation Drawings, then dry-fit the
locate pilot holes in the worktop, drill the Section View on page 18. Youll vise support to the endcap cleat and
these holes, insert the splines and use these locations as a reference as finish drilling your pilot holes. When
attach the endcaps with lag screws you build up a support structure for all the screw holes have been bored,
and washers (pieces 10 and 11). the large end vise (piece 13). Screw remove the screws until the legs and
Dont glue the splines into place, and glue a vise support cleat (piece the laminated jaw (piece 17) are
otherwise the worktop could buckle 14), to the endcap, located 34" up installed. At that time, youll also
or crack with changes in humidity if from the bottom (see the Elevations address the bench dogs (pieces 18,
its not allowed to move. and Detail Drawings on page 18. Drill 19 and 20).

Winter 2006 21
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12
38

34 36
12
Building the Toolbox
Stability is perhaps the number
38 one requirement in a workbench, so
34
the storage area on this bench is
(End View) (Side View) designed to add weight and lateral
stability to the legs, while also
32 23/8" providing three drawers, a cupboard
34 and a large shelf for tool storage.
21/4"
The toolbox top, bottom, sides,
33
divider and back (pieces 21, 22, 23
33 Customize 11/4"
the height of
and 24) are cut from one sheet of
your bench 34" hardwood veneered plywood.
by adjusting 33 John used birch ply, a good color
the length of
your stile
and grain match for the maple in the
laminations. rest of the bench, and far easier to
341/2" find as a stock lumber yard item
than maple ply. Use the Elevation
Drawings to lay out rabbets on the
appropriate edges of these pieces,
then mill them with a 34" straight
Mount the bit chucked in your router table. For
3" tool box so
its flush with
clean and safe cuts, make several
the top of the passes to mill each rabbet.
bottom rail.
27/8" Use the same bit to plow dadoes
for the drawer slides and divider,
then glue and clamp the top and
35 35/8" bottom to the sides. Dry-fit the back
and glue it in place.
1"
The front edges of the case are
31 trimmed with walnut (piece 25).
Leg Apply this with glue and 3d finish
Sub-assembly nails. Set the heads and fill them
after the glue dries, then scrape or
plane the trim flush with the
plywood. Now you need to build and
install the legs before coming back
36 37 to finish up the rest of the toolbox,
namely the door, top trimmers and
knobs (pieces 26 through 30).

MATERIAL LIST (Legs)


37
35 T xW x L
31 Feet (4) 3/4" x 312" x 312"
32 Stile Center Laminations (4) 1" x 334" x 3314"
31 33 Stile Outer Laminations (8) 1" x 334" x 2412"
34 Top Rail Outer Laminations (4) 1" x 458" x 20"
35 Bottom Rail Outer Laminations (4) 1" x 458" x 2314"
36 Rail Center Laminations (4) 1" x 458" x 10"
37 Foot Inserts (4) 1" x 458" x 278"
38 Top Inserts (4) 1" x 458" x 278"

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43 45

42

44

43 30

47

MATERIAL LIST (Drawers)


3
/8" TxWxL
39 Drawer Slides (6) 3/4" x 3/4" x 1514"
To create the drawer 40 Top Drawer Sides (2) 3/4" x 3" x 1512"
47 corner joints, use the
45 technique described in 41 Top Drawer Front and Back (2) 3/4" x 3" x 22"
1
/4" the sidebar on page 25. 42 Lower Drawer Sides (4) 3/4" x 518" x 1512"
Only one set up is
required to make both 43 Lower Drawer Fronts & Backs (4) 3/4" x 518" x 22"
the rabbets and dadoes 44 Drawer Bottoms (3) 1/4" x 14716" x 21716"
Drawer Face for each corner.
Location 45 Drawer Trim (1) 1/4" x 3/4" x 228"
(Top View) 46 Top Drawer Face (1) 3/4" x 358" x 2312"
47 Lower Drawer Faces (2) 3/4" x 538" x 2312"
3
/8"

3 47 Drawer Side (Side View)


/8"
3
/8"
45
Drawer
Corner 42
30
Joint 3
(Top View) /4"

1
1
/4" /4" 21/4"

Making Stile and Rail Legsets (pieces 33): their dimensions are laminations (pieces 34 and 35), then
The benchs legs are standard shown on the Leg Elevations on cut these to shape on your band
stile and rail construction, with a page 22. Face-glue and clamp each saw. Dry-fit these and the rail center
twist: both stiles and rails are built- set of three laminations together to laminations (pieces 36) to the legs,
up laminations. This allows you to create four individual legs, then set then temporarily clamp them in
assemble the legsets with mortise them aside. place. Use this setup as a template
and tenon joiner y without ever Dont be overly anxious about to lay out and mark the foot and top
having to chop a single mortise. per fect matches or glue squeeze- inserts (pieces 37 and 38), as shown
After cutting all the leg par ts out; after the glue dries, you can in Figure 4. Trim the inserts to size
(including the feet, pieces 31) to the scrape off any excess and then joint on your band saw, glue and clamp
sizes on the Material List, dr y-fit the uneven edges. each legset together and set them
the stile center laminations (pieces Use the Elevation Drawings to lay aside to dry.
32) to the outside laminations out the top and bottom rails outside

Winter 2006 23
SIP_WP2.24 10/21/05 5:10 PM Page 24

mounting plate as a guide to locate


the three holes. Drill these holes
18" oversize.
Slip the laminated jaw over the
guide rods and the screw, then
gently wind the vise closed. Position
Figure 4: Dry-fit the legset parts together, then use this as a template to determine the shape of the wooden jaw flush with the top
the foot and top inserts. and sides of the worktops endcap,
drill pilot holes for the mounting
Attaching the Legs to the Top page 18). You can now begin to screws and drive them home.
Sand the worktop thoroughly, mount the vise to the bench.
then turn it upside down. Use your Again using the vise as a template, Building the Drawers
drill press to create slots in one face gently wind in the jaw until the two Chamfer the leading edges of the
of the leg cleats (pieces 12) and guide rods just touch the leg rail. drawer slides (pieces 39), as shown
pilot holes in the other face of the Mark the rod locations, and the on the Elevation Drawings on page
piece. Attach the cleats flush to the locations of the screw holes in the 21, then glue them in their dadoes.
top of the legs with glue and screws guide rod bushings that come with After cutting the drawer sides,
driven through the holes not the the vise, as shown in Figure 5. fronts and backs (pieces 40 through
slots. When the glue dries, attach Remove the vise and platform, 43) to size, use the dimensions
the legs to the toolbox (flush with then use a Forstner bit to drill shown on Drawer Corner Joint
the top of the bottom rail) by slightly oversized holes in the legs Detail, page 23, to create the locking
temporarily clamping ever ything rail assembly for the rods and screw joints on their cor ners (see the
in place. Drill pilot holes inside to pass through. You may want to photo series sidebar on the next
the toolbox for 2" screws and, remove the legs and perform this page). These joints are cut on the
when everything is lined up, drive step on your drill press to ensure table saw. Its a good idea to make a
them home. truly vertical bores. Then screw the practice joint on scrap wood to
Round up some strong help and bushings in place. establish the saw settings before
set the leg assembly upside-down milling the actual workpieces.
on the underside of the worktop. Forming the Laminated Jaw Stay at the table saw to cut
Complete the assembly driving There are two good reasons to grooves in the inside faces of these
screws through the cleat slots use five separate boards to laminate pieces for the drawer bottoms
into your predrilled holes in a blank for the moveable vise jaw (pieces 44), as shown on the
the underside of the work-top. (piece 17): it will be more stable Exploded View Drawing, page 23.
This secures the legs and toolbox than a single board, and it will be far
to the top. stronger. Follow the Jaw Lamin-
ation layout on page 18 to face-glue
Installing the Vise and clamp the blank together.
You have already made all the Using the Pattern Drawing on the
parts for the vise support assembly. Pinup Shop Drawings, draw and cut
Now, begin the vise installation by the jaw to shape on your bandsaw,
positioning the vise on its support at and sand out the saw marks with a
the location shown on the Elevation 2" drum sander. Shape the outside
Drawings. Next, use the vise as bottom and side edges with a
a template to mark mounting holes 12"-radius guided beading bit
on the suppor t. Drill these chucked in your portable router.
holes (see the manufacturers To locate the holes in the jaw for
Figure 5: The vise attaches to both the endcap
instructions), then install the cleat the guide rods and screw, remove and vise support. With two screws holding the
subassembly you made earlier with the screw and guide rods, clamp the unit in place, establish the locations for the
screws (see Section V iew on jaw in place and use the vise guide rod and center screw holes in the legs.

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Step-by-step
drawer joinery
Glue and clamp the drawers toolbox top, to stop tools from falling
together, checking that theyre off the shelf. Finally, chamfer the top
square and flat before setting them and bottom edges of the feet and
aside. When the glue is dry, trim the screw them to the legs.
top edges of the plywood drawers
with solid hardwood (piece 45), Finishing Up
gluing and nailing at 6" intervals. Fill Disassemble the entire bench,
the nail holes and sand the filler then sand all surfaces with 120-grit,
flush, then install a dado head in 180-grit and finally 220-grit
your table saw to mill grooves in the sandpaper. Wipe it down with a tack
drawer sides for the slides. Test cloth and apply four coats of natural
your setup with scrap, using three Danish Oil to the legset and toolbox,
pieces to represent the three drawer and an additional couple of coats to
sizes, and make any minor the worktop. Sand each coat except Step 1: Install a 38" dado head and a
zero-clearance insert in the saw and cut
adjustments needed to ensure that the last, using 400-grit paper, wiping a rabbet at the end of each drawer front
the drawers will slide properly. it clean before and after sanding. and back.
After milling, test-fit the sides in When the finish is dry, reassemble
the case to be sure they slide easily. the bench and mount the knobs on
the drawers and door.
Building the Drawer Fronts and Door Install a pair of bench dogs (pieces
John cut the drawer fronts and the 18) by using the Elevation Drawings
door for his bench from a single to locate their holes in the top of the
wide board, to take advantage of a vise jaw. Drill the right-hand hole
ver y attractive grain pattern. You vertically all the way through the jaw
may have to glue up stock for this (back up the exit area with some
process. Cut the faces (pieces 46 scrap, to avoid tear-out). Drill the left
and 47) to size, then shape their hole to a depth of 412", then use a bit
front edges on the router table with extender or a long twist bit to drill a
a chamfering bit (see the Elevation second hole in the bottom of this
Drawings for dimensions). boring (see the Elevation Drawings Step 2: Without moving the rip fence,
You can now return to the door for dimensions). This hole is for a switch to the miter fence to form
matching dadoes in the drawer sides.
and finish machining it. The grain brass pin thats actually a door hinge
pattern on Johns door (piece 26) pin, available at most hardware
ran horizontally. To prevent cupping, stores. This pin is used as a button
he plowed three dadoes from top to to push the top of the bench dog up
bottom in its back and glued in three above the surface of the jaw when
stiffeners (pieces 27). After sanding, you need to use it.
he chamfered the doors front Pop the square dogs into their
edges to match the look of the holes at this time, then fill the top
drawer faces. drawer in the toolbox with all those
European style hinges with a 14" project plans youll need over the
overlay (pieces 28) are completely next few decades. After all, once
hidden when the door is closed. people see the great job you did on
Follow the included instructions for building your workbench, theyre
mounting these hinges. bound to have all sorts of great ideas
Step 3: Dry-fit the joints and then switch
On your bandsaw, shape the that will help you use it!
to a 14" dado head to cut the grooves for
walnut toolbox trimmers (pieces the bottoms.
29), then sand them smooth. Screw
one to the legs at each end of the

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SIP_WP2.28 10/26/05 1:56 PM Page 28

Multi-functional
Routing System
Heres a router table complete
with its own dust collection
system that can be used
with or without its base.

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14

13
16
11
10 18
12
15

17
7 8
9
10

6
4
2
3
11

MATERIAL LIST (Top)


TxWxL
1 Tabletop (1) 112" x 26" x 2614"
f your shop has neither loads of

I
2 Wings (2) 112" x 26" x 12"
floor space nor a central dust col- 3 Piano Hinges (2) 112" x 26"
lection system, this multi-func- 4 Edging (2) 112" x 8' Plyedge
tional router table is for you. 5 Tabletop Laminate (2) 1/40" x 2614" x 2612"
With its wings up, it provides plenty 6 Wing Laminate (4) 1/40" x 2614" x 1214"
of support for long stock. Flip the
7 Miter Gauge Track (1) 1/2" x 1" x 2614"
wings down, and it rolls up against a
8 Fence T-track (2) 1/2" x 13/16" x 1512"
wall for ordinary-sized routing tasks
or doubles as an extra table for stor- 9 Router Base Insert (1) 1/4" x 9" x 12"
age. In this mode, it only occupies a 10 Gussets (2) 3/4" x 8" x 8"
little over 4 square feet of floor 11 Threaded Inserts (8) 1/4"-20
space. Weve designed the fence 12 Brass Knurled Knobs (4) 1/4"-20
with a port to hook up to your shop 13 Screws (36) #8 x 112"
vac, which should help keep your 14 Plugs (36) 3 8" Dia.

lungs cleaner. Best of all, the top 15 Fence Face and Brace (2) 3/4" x 3" x 2614"
comes off and becomes a stand- 16 Dust Collection Port (1) 2" x 2" x 9"
alone benchtop unit that you can 17 T-slot Bolts (2) 5/16"-18 x 112"
take with you for those routing jobs 18 Star Knobs (2) 5/16"-18
outside the shop.

Winter 2006 29
SIP_WP2.30 10/21/05 5:13 PM Page 30

Figure 1: The router table insert rests on a


rabbet that holds it flush with the tabletop.
Follow the instructions that come with your
plate for cutting this opening and rabbet.

the laminate flush with the edges of


the tabletop and wings. Repeat the
process on the top surfaces. This
time, set the router bit height so the
bearing clears the hinge rabbets.

Adding Tabletop Hardware


Now that your tabletop and wings
are laminated, you can star t
machining for the hardware that
guides the fence and miter gauge.
Making the Tabletop Core Laminating the Tabletop The first step is to install the piano
To ensure that this tabletop stays Each piece of laminate in the hinges that hold the wings, then lay
flat, we built the core from two Material List on page 31 (pieces 5 the entire assembly on a flat
layers of Finnish birch plywood. and 6) is deliberately oversized by workbench. Secure it to the bench
However, a less expensive high- 14". This is because youll be using with clamps, then install a 1"
density fiberboard (the same your router to trim it to the correct straight bit in your router (if you
material used by cabinet shops for size after it has been applied to the dont own a 1" bit, make several
countertops) would also work, and top and wings. passes with a smaller one). Refer to
so would ordinary 34" MDF. If you used screws to glue up the the Pinup Shop Drawings for the
Begin by gluing and clamping two tabletop, fill any depressions and location of the miter gauge groove,
sheets of 34"-thick core stock (26" x sand the filler flush. Then spread a then clamp a fence in place and rout
50 1 2 " large enough to make coat of contact adhesive on the this groove across all three panels
pieces 1 and 2) together, exerting bottom surface of each wing and the at the same time. That way, youll be
enough pressure on the center of tabletop, following the adhesive sure they line up.
the panel to ensure good adhesion. manufacturers directions. (Note: Install the miter gauge track
One way to do this is to screw the Laminating the bottom surfaces will (piece 7) in the tabletop next, but
two panels together. Screw from the ensure that the tabletop will stay dont install track in the wing
bottom up with 1 1 4" screws after flat.) Apply a similar coat to the grooves or the gauge will get
drilling clearance holes through the relevant pieces of laminate. When stuck. Drill countersunk holes for
bottom sheet. The screws will pull the cement is dry to the touch, lay screws to hold the track in place,
the two plates together. Use a dowels or thin sticks ever y six then slip the miter gauge from
straightedge to check that the inches along the plywood, then your table saw into the track and
assembly is flat. After the glue has position the laminate on top of these tighten the screws until it slides
dried, cut the top and wings to size spacers. Remember, youll only get easily without extra play.
on your table saw. Then reset your one shot at lining up the laminate The T-tracks for the fence (pieces
fence and blade height to create the contact adhesive is unforgiving. 8) are installed in a similar fashion.
rabbets for the hinges (pieces 3) on When youre happy with the Cut the grooves according to the
the four inside edges (see the Pinup positioning, begin removing the locations given in the drawings, then
Shop Drawings). spacers from the center. Work your screw the tracks in place. The last
Glue and clamp hardwood tape way toward the ends, pressing the hardware element in the top is the
(piece 4) to all the edges of the laminate down firmly as each spacer table inser t (piece 9). Follow the
three panels except the ones to is removed. Use a roller to roll the instructions that come with your
which the hinges will be screwed. entire surface once all the spacers insert plate for cutting the rabbet
Sand the tape flush with the top are removed, then use a laminate- (shown in Figure 1) that holds it in
and bottom. trimming bit in your router to cut the tabletop.

30 Workshop Projects
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Figure 2: Gussets that are mortised into the


back of the tabletop allow the top to be
converted into a portable benchtop unit.

Adding Portability
To use the tabletop as a stand-
alone unit, the wings serve as legs.
They are secured in position with a
pair of gussets (pieces 10) that are
mor tised into the back of the
tabletop like hinges are mor tised
into doors. These mortises (see the
drawings) are cut with a router
equipped with a straight bit (after
removing the piano hinges), then
cleaned up with a chisel. A The fence is secured to the hole in the top (see drawings) for
matching mortise is then cut in the tabletop with two T-slot bolts your router. You also need to drill a
back of each wing. (pieces 17) and a couple of star hole in the back of the shelf for your
Bore holes in each wing for the knobs (pieces 18). This hardware routers power cord. Note: If you
threaded inserts (pieces 11), and in also allows you to easily move and decide not to install wheels on your
each gusset (see Figure 2, above) set the fence. cabinet, the bottom should be the
for the knurled knobs (pieces 12). same size as the top.
The drawings locate the holes for Building the Base Cabinet You can now assemble the top,
the inser ts plus the screws and Even though it becomes a bottom and shelf to the sides and
plugs (pieces 13 and 14) that anchor por table, self-contained unit, the back, using glue and 1 1 2" screws.
the gussets to the tabletop. To tabletop subassembly is designed so The screw heads should be sunk
secure the wings in the down it can rest on a mobile base cabinet. 14" below the sur face in 38"-
position, pass the brass knobs This bases two sides (pieces 19) diameter counterbores that are
through the holes in the gussets are rabbeted on their top, bottom drilled with a Forstner bit (for clean
and screw them into the inserts. and back (see the drawings for edges and a flat bottom).
locations and dimensions), and
Making the Fence these are easy cuts to make on Adding Some Trim
Use straight hardwood stock to your table saw. Theres something about a well-
make the fence face and brace The cabinet back (piece 20) is built shop fixture (a fine European
(pieces 15), then cut a hole in the milled next. The only machining workbench, for example) that brings
middle of the face (see drawings) for here is a rabbet along the top edge pleasure to the most mundane
router bits before screwing and and a large hole (see the drawings) woodworking tasks even sanding!
gluing the two pieces together. that will allow air to reach your shop Thats why we suggest you trim out
Counterbore the screw heads (theyll vac if you stow it in the cabinet and the router tables base cabinet, giving
be plugged later), then make the the router cord to exit the cabinet. If it a frame-and-panel look. The trim
dust collection por t (piece 16), a you already have a dust collection pieces are simply cut and jointed
block of wood (see Pinup Shop system, all youll need is a hole to size, then applied to the cabinet
Drawings for profile) with a hole large enough to accept your cords with glue and clamps.
drilled in it at an angle: Use a hole plug. If not, the hole can be cut with The trim pieces must be applied in
saw or Forstner bit that matches the a jigsaw after first drilling out the a specific order so that everything
diameter of your shop vac hose four corners. Finish up by sanding fits perfectly. Begin by attaching the
fitting. Screw, but dont glue, the port any jagged edges left by the saw. side stiles (pieces 24), followed by
to the back of the fence behind the After you have cut the top, shelf the front and back stiles (pieces 25),
hole: You may need to replace the and bottom (pieces 21, 22 and 23) to the side rails (pieces 26) and the
fence face sometime in the future. size, return to your jigsaw to cut the edging (pieces 27).

Winter 2006 31
SIP_WP2.32 10/21/05 5:13 PM Page 32

MATERIAL LIST (Base)


TxWxL TxWxL
19 Base Sides (2) 3/4" x 2378" x 3212" 29 Door Edging (2) 3/4" x 96" Tape
20 Base Back (1) 3/4" x 23" x 3212" 30 Door Hinges (2) 112" x 3034" Piano
21 Base Top (1) 3/4" x 23" x 2312 31 Door Catches (2) Double Roller
22 Base Shelf (1) 3/4" x 2214" x 211516" 32 Door Knobs (2) 112" Dia.
23 Base Bottom (1)* 3/4" x 23" x 13" 33 Gatelegs (4) 3/4" x 9" x 838"
24 Side Stiles (4) 3/8" x 234" x 3212" 34 Threaded Inserts (4) 5/16"-18
25 Front & Back Stiles (4) 1/4" x 1" x 3212" 35 Gateleg Levelers (4) 3/8" x 118"
26 Side Rails (2) 3/8" x 234" x 1838" 36 Gateleg Hinges (4) 112" x 9" Piano
27 Edging (3) 1/4" x 3/4" x 2214" 37 Cabinet Feet (4) 1/4" x 2" x 2"*
28 Doors (2) 3/4" x 11" x 3034"
If you decide not to install the wheel system, the bottom
should measure 23" x 2312".

32 Workshop Projects
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Figure 4: The router tables fence incorporates


a dust collection port. Your shop vac hose
should friction-fit to this hole.

Making the Doors


Flush doors (pieces 28) are simple
to make and have a low profile. To
build them, cut plywood panels to
the correct dimensions and apply
pressure-sensitive hardwood tape
(piece 29) to all four edges (see
Figure 3). Sand the tape flush, then
dr y-fit the hinges (pieces 30), the
catches (pieces 31) and the door
knobs (pieces 32). Locations for all
of these can be found on the
drawings. Once all the screw holes Wrap up the base by gluing plugs Drawings and the Exploded View
have been started, you can remove in the screw counterbores. Drawing on the next page as guides.
the hardware until after the cabinet Trim these with a chisel and sand Assemble the axle, wheels, washers
has been finished. them flush. and clips, then build the wooden
The same four brass knurled assembly. Youll need to hacksaw a
Adding Gatelegs to Support the Top knobs that hold the wings in pair of shallow grooves into the axle
When working with long stock, position when the router system is at both ends for locking the pair of
this router tables two extension being used on a benchtop are also clips that hold each wheel in place.
wings are invaluable. However, its used to secure the top to the base. To mount the assembly in the
essential that the wings are lined up Drill holes through the top of the cabinet, position it so the bottoms of
in the same plane as the tabletop. To base, then bore four corresponding the wheels are even with the cabinet
ensure that they are, two pairs of holes in the underside of the top for feet when the axle is resting in the
gatelegs (pieces 33) support them the threaded inser ts (pieces 11). shor ter stepped slots in the axle
when theyre in use. This ensures that youll get a steady, frames. Drive countersunk screws
To make these gatelegs, begin by safe and non-moving surface. through the cabinet sides into the
transferring their shape from the lower shelf and lower shelf support.
drawings onto your plywood stock, Building the Wheel Assembly Plug these screw holes in the base.
then move to your drill press. Bore a To make the table mobile (so it
hole in the top of each blank for a can be pushed against a wall and
threaded insert (pieces 34). These moved out when needed), we added
inser ts will house plastic leveler a pair of wheels (pieces 38).
glides (pieces 35) that will allow you However, if you decide that you
to make fine adjustments to the dont need this option, just skip the
height of the wings. Boring holes for rest of this section and move on to
them is a lot easier to do now, before Wrapping Up.
the gateleg profile is cut. Thats the The wheel system we devised lets
next step, and its done on your you tip the router table away from
bandsaw. Then use a drum sander in you to engage the wheels, then
your drill press to refine the toward you to disengage, using the
bandsaw cuts. stepped slots cut in the axle frames
Install the gatelegs with 9" lengths (pieces 45). Its enclosed by the
of piano hinge (pieces 36). The lower shelf (piece 39) and a support
locations for these hinges can be (piece 40). These are cut to size,
found on the drawings. Once theyre then the leading edge of the shelf is Figure 3: Apply pressure sensitive hardwood
in place, attach 14"-thick feet (pieces trimmed with an oak strip (piece tape to all four edges of the base units
plywood doors, then sand the tape flush. Sand
37) to the four corners to keep the 41). Cut and build the wheel carefully to keep from sanding off the plywood
bottom of your cabinet off the floor. assembly using the Pinup Shop surface veneer.

Winter 2006 33
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Note: Wheel assembly 41


is shown here from
the back view.

39

42

40

45

46

44
38

43
MATERIAL LIST (Wheel Assembly)

Wrapping Up T xW x L
38 Wheels (2) 8" Dia.
After all the assembly is
accomplished, youre ready to finish 39 Lower Shelf (1) 3/4" x 2214" x 1014"
the cabinet. We sprayed the base 40 Lower Shelf Support (1) 3/4" x 2214" x 9
and tabletop edging with four coats 41 Lower Shelf Edging (1) 1/4" x 3/4" x 2214"
of lacquer, sanding between coats. 42 Axle (1) 1/2" x 22" Steel Rod
Mount your router to the insert 43 Axle Clips (4) 1/2" I.D. Spring Clips
plate youve selected for your 44 Axle Washers (4) 1/2" I.D. x 2" O.D. Fender
project. It probably comes either 45 Axle Frames (2) 1/2" x 934" x 9"
drilled to fit your router or with 46 Wheel Retainer Panel (1) 3/4" x 23" x 1012"
instructions for drilling the holes
yourself. If not, remove the
baseplate from your router and use
it as a template for locating the
countersunk screw holes in the RESOURCE GUIDE
insert plate. Attach the router to the
insert plate with screws and drop Find the piano hinges, plywood edging and other hardware
it into place. along with all your woodworking necessities at Rockler
Woodworking and Hardware. Call 800-610-0883 or visit the
web site www.rockler.com to order.

34 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.35 10/21/05 11:41 AM Page 35

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Winter 2006 35
SIP_WP2.36 10/21/05 5:16 PM Page 36

Sandpaper Caddy
If finding a specific grit sandpaper in
your sandpaper drawer is a frustrating
chore, heres an easy way to bring some
order to the chaos. The alignment blocks dont just store the
disks, they make it easy to center them on
your orbital sander: just press down. The dust
extraction holes line up every time.

reader once submitted this 60, 80, 100, 150 and 220 grits. 6 and 7) to size, and glue them to

A handy caddy design,


which is basically an
embellishment of a simple
alignment block for installing
orbital sanding disks on a sander
Once youve made the alignment
blocks, build the storage cabinet
shown in the Exploded V iew. It
simply consists of an open-faced
rectangular box with a series of
the cabinet sides, starting with the
top and bottom. Make the back
from hardboard. Pin the joints with
brads or finish nails to hold
them in place while the glue
(see photo, above). By making sev- r unners that hold the dif ferent dries. To identify the grit of the
eral of these alignment blocks alignment blocks. paper stored on each block, attach a
(pieces 1) for each of the grits you Rather than fabricating the sides label to each. Theyre quick to
use, all you need is a case to store (pieces 3) individually, cut a board make on a computer.
them in. Suddenly that drawer is 13" wide by 10 7 8" high. Use 1/4"
much less cluttered! hardboard for the sides. Glue the
The concept here is simplicity five r unners (pieces 4 and 5) in
itself: dowels on a board line up the place at their proper locations (see
holes on a sanding disk with your Elevation Drawing). After the glue
sanders pad. To install a disk, slip dries, cut the assembly in half
the orbital sander over the guide vertically and trim each half to
pins (pieces 2) of the appropriate width to make two identical
block and press down. Lift off the case sides. Cut the top,
sander and youre ready to sand. bottom and back of
The critical dimension on these the cabinet (pieces
blocks is the location of the guide
pins. Follow the Elevation Drawing
on the next page and use one of
your sanding disks to verify the
layout marks. Make a cardboard
template and use it as a guide for
locating the pins.
The holes in the faceplate of the
sander and the sanding disks are
3/8". Using 5/16" dowels for the
pins allows for some slight
misalignment but still provides a
good match between the holes in
the paper and the dust extraction
This handy sanding caddy holds five
openings in the pad. Make enough
grits worth of sanding disks. Use the
storage blocks for the various grits blocks to mount disks on your sander
you use. Five should cover it, for and to make each grit easy to find.

36 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.37 10/21/05 5:17 PM Page 37

MATERIAL LIST
Alignment Block TxWxL
(Top View)
1 Alignment Blocks (5) 3/4" x 57/8" x 57/8"
Note: The easiest way to
locate the pin holes is to 2 Guide Pins (20) 5/16" Dia. x 114"
draw the layout lines 3 Sides (2) 1/4" x 57/8" x 107/8"
shown at left, then lay a
"

4 Middle Runners (8) 3/8" x 3/8" x 57/8"


/16
15

disk in place and rotate it


1 until four of the holes 5 Bottom Runners (2) 3/8" x 5/8" x 57/8"
intersect the lines. Or 6 Top/bottom (2) 3/4" x 57/8" x 57/8"
measure out from the
center as shown. 7 Back (1) 1/4" x 63/8" x 107/8"

Storage Cabinet Side


(Section View)
6

21/2"
3
7
6
41/4"

3 6"
4
4
73/4"

3 5
4

Winter 2006 37
SIP_WP2.38 10/27/05 5:20 PM Page 38

ADVERTISING INFORMATION
Amana Tool Corporation pg. 15 MacBeath Hardwood Company pg. 35
800-445-0077 www.amanatool.com 800-479-5008 www.macbeath.com
American Clamping Company pg. 71 Micro Fence pg. 55
800-828-1004 www.jamesmorton.com 800-480-6427 www.microfence.com
Arrow Fastener pgs. 9,70 Mule Cabinetmaker Machine pg. 71
201-843-6900 www.arrowfastener.com 877-684-7366 www.mulecab.com
Colonial Saw pg. 71 Newton Woods pg. 35
781-585-4364 www.csaw.com 559-277-8456 www.walnutwoods.net
Cookss Saw Manufacturing, LLC pg. 75 Niagara Lumber pg. 35
800-473-4804 www.cookssaw.com 800-274-0397 www.niagaralumber.com
Country Accents pg. 82 Osborne Wood Products pg. 69
570-478-4127 www.piercedtin.com 800-849-8876 www.osbornewood.com
Creative Woodcraft Plans pg. 82 Porter-Cable Corporation pg. 84
800-296-6256 www.woodcraftplans.com 800-487-8665 www.porter-cable.com
DeWALT Industrial Tool pg. 14 Premier Wood Products, Inc. pg. 15
800-433-9258 www.dewalt.com 800-277-7971 www.premierwood.com
Delta Machinery Corp. pgs. 2-3 Protective Coating Company pg. 63
800-223-7278 www.deltawoodworking.com 610-432-3543 www.pcepoxy.com
Direct Sales Ltd. pg. 14 Quality Web Alliance pg. 62
604-876-9909 www.omertools.com 859-494-0790 www.laserkerf.com
Drill Doctor pg. 11 R & R Clamp pg. 75
800-597-6170 www.drilldr.com 920-863-2987 www.rrclamp.com
Elmers Products, Inc. pg. 83 Red Hill Corporation pg. 70
800-848-9400 www.elmers.com 717-337-3038 www.supergrit.com
EpoxyHeads, Inc. pg. 82 Rikon Power Tools pgs. 13,35
866-EPOXY IT www.epoxyheads.com 877-884-5167 www.rikontools.com
Eureka Woodworks pg. 62 Rockler Woodworking & Hardware pgs. 61,63
877-225-0521 www.eurekabusiness.com 800-279-4441 www.rockler.com
Fein Power Tools pg. 62 Rousseau Company pg. 82
800-441-9878 www.feinus.com 800-635-3416 www.rousseauco.com
Franklin International pgs. 26-27,75 Safety Speed Cut Manufacturing Co., Inc. pg. 75
800-347-4583 www.titebond.com 800-772-2327 www.safetyspeedcut.com
Freud, Inc. pg. 5 The Silky Store, LLC pg. 70
800-334-4107 www.freudtools.com 888-605-0001 www.silkystore.com
Fuji Industrial Spray Equipment, Ltd. pg. 70 Simpl Products pg. 74
800-650-0930 www.fujispray.com 914-662-2820 www.woodjigs.com
General International pg. 15 Specialty Furniture Design pg. 62
514-326-1161 www.general.ca 800-892-4026 www.sfdplans.com
Granberg International pg. 82 Tech Mark, Inc. pg. 61
800-233-6499 www.granberg.com 800-787-6747 www.rojekusa.com
Harbor Freight Tools pg. 47 Toolmart Inc. pg. 70
800-423-2567 www.harborfreight.com 800-869-3395 www.toolmartinc.com
Hut Products for Wood pg. 14 Tormek USA pg. 62
800-547-5461 www.hutproducts.com 800-586-7635 www.tormek.com
JessEm Tool Company pg. 74 West Penn Hardwoods pg. 35
866-272-7492 www.jessem.com 888-636-9663 www.westpennhardwoods.com
Jobmaster Magnets Canada, Inc. pg. 62 West System Inc. pg. 61
877-922-0226 www.jobmastermagnets.com 866-937-8797 www.westsystem.com
JWW Services, Inc. pg. 62 Williams & Hussey Machine Co. pg. 14
888-598-3633 www.veneersupplies.com 800-258-1380 www.williamsnhussey.com
Klockit pg. 74 Wood-Mizer pg. 63
800-556-2548 www.klockit.com 800-553-0182 www.woodmizer.com
Kreg Tool Company pg. 69 Wood-Ply Lumber Corp. pg. 35
800-447-8638 www.kregtool.com 800-354-9002 www.woodply.com
Laguna Tools pg. 7 WoodRat Precision Joinery Machines pg. 69
800-234-1976 www.lagunatools.com 011-44-1458-832744 www.woodrat.com
Leigh Industries pg. 13 Woodturners pg. 82
800-663-8932 www.leighjigs.com 877-603-9663 www.woodturners.on.ca
LRH Enterprises pg. 74 Woodworkers Source pg. 35
800-423-2544 www.lrhent.com 800-423-2450 www.woodworkerssource.net
Full-size Drawings Workbench

Workbench

Laminated Jaw
17

Top Trimmer
(Front View) Round Dog
Use a simple
Button
29 19 brass hinge
pin to make
this piece.

Screw
Location
Technical Drawings Multi-functional Routing System
1

Supplies
Tabletop Multifunction Router Table
(Top View) 112"x 36" Piano Hinges (2 required) ...#19283
Birch Plyedge Roll (2 required) .........#10991
1 5/16" 5-Star Knobs (2 required) ..........#23812
Cut the router plate 1/4"-20 Threaded Insert 21 ....................#28803
insert hole according to Aluminum T-Track (2 required) ...........#20054
the instructions that Router Bit Guard ................................#67157
1/4" Knurled Knob ............................#99615
come with the plate.
Please call for current pricing 800-610-0883

Dadoes for fence T-


tracks are 34" wide
by 38" deep.

Dado for miter


gauge track is 1"
wide by 12" deep.

20

28
Door
knob
hole
20

28

Door
catch
holes
1 4" Radius

Axle frame
screw locations
45
Door
(Back View)

Base Back
Axle Frame (Front View) Use a hacksaw to cut
45
(Side View) shallow grooves for
spring clips .
42

Axle
(Front View)
42
Technical Drawings Multi-functional Routing System

Base Top
(Top View)
Wheel Retainer Panel
21 (Top View)

When you
When you position
position 46
the insert in the table-
the insert in the table-
top, make
top, make suresure this
this
hole lines
hole lines up
up so
so the
the
router can pass
router can pass
through it.
through it.
46

1
516" holes for Knurled Knob

Tabletop Joint
(End View) Mortise for
1 gusset is 34"
1 8" 19 for hinge
x 1" rabbet deep by 10
7 8"
wide.
2

19 10

2 Gusset
(Front View)
15 16
6" Radius

Fence Dust Port


(Front View) (End View)
15 16
3/8"deep
3/8" deepxx3/4"
3/4"
widerabbet.
wide rabbet. 33

Drill hole for


leveler

33

6" Radius

Base Side Gateleg


(Side View)
(Front View)
cutting plywood
to shape.
5 6
Technical Drawings Clamping Station
3
/4" wide x 1/4"
3
/4" wide x 3/8"
deep rabbet 63/4"
deep rabbet

x 3/8" deep rabbet Magnetic catch strikeplate and block

11/4"
Spring catch
9"
Bar
Bar clamp bracket clamp
41" bracket
7
/8 " 691/2"

11/4"

wide x 1/4" 9" 9" 11/8"


ep rabbet
43/4"
3
/4"
17/8"
583/4"
10" 291/2" 81/4"
3
/4" x 2 3/4" oak back
11/4"
for handscrew
clamp brackets.

Handscrew
clamp bracket

15"

47"

de x 3/8"
rabbet Mount magnetic catches
8"
1
behind upper inside corners /4" Oak banding
of cupboard doors. 11/4"
2 /4"
1

1" 2"
27 /4"
1
255/8"

183/4"
Piano hinge 1
/4" Walnut banding

11/4"
wide x 3/8"
ep rabbet

3
/4"
Elevation Carcass Elevation Div
21 Drill pilot holes and screw
bracket to left side of cabinet.
3 6 Retainers
461/2" 14
4
8
Technical Drawings 9 9
Clamping Station
Frame Side Elevations
13 Pipe clamps I-bar clamps
8

11/2" 31/4" 11/2" 31/4"


Top and Bottom
381/2"
Elevation 53/4" Clamping Table
wide x 3/8" deep rabbet 36 5
/8"
Plywood Cutting La
Leg Elevation
2" Magnetic
Pivot hinge catch
5 location
2 14 13/8" radius
21 1
/4" Oak banding
61out
/2" wedge,
3 361/8" 6 Cut applied thenafter trim one 31/8"
4 14 corner cuttingsquare.
of wedge plywood
12
4 301/2" 9 9 Rabbet main to shape.
block and glue
8 wedge into place.
5 6
13 3 5/8"
3/4" wide x 3/8"
8
deep rabbet 3
/4"
3
/4" wide x 1/4" 13/4" 63/4"
wide x /4" 1
1 /4"
3
deep rabbet
ep rabbet 3 1" 1
/2"
wide x /8" deep rabbet 2" Magnetic catch Lower Pipe Clamp Fixture Elevations
bet Magnetic
Bracket catch strikeplate and block
Plywood Cutting Layouts Drill a 13/8" hole, then cu
181/2" 62 /2" Cut out wedge, then trim one
1 Upper the remaining waste
3
/4" Bracket with5 your table saw.
4
2 corner of wedge 11/4"square.
Spring catch Rabbet main block and glue 21
7
9" 25 3 wedge into place.25 6
3
12
35/8"
Bar
4
3
/4" 9 9
Bar clamp bracket 541/2"clamp 1 3
/4"
41"
wide x 1/4" 13/4" bracket 8
"p rabbet 7
/8" 691/2" 13
1" 1 /2"
1 8 11/2" Pipe Clamp Fixture Elevations
2" Lower
14 11/2" BracketDrill 11/4pilot
" holes
11/2" and screw Drill a 13/8" hole, then cu
bracket to left side of cabinet.
/ 4"
3
3 1 628" /2"
the remaining waste
9" /4" /wide
1 Retainer
2 9" 3/4" wide x 3/8" 3
1
5 x 3/8" deep rabbet Upper
block 4" 2" Magnetic catch
Side Door Elevation deep rabbet /21
14
461/2" Bracket with your table saw.
14 7 43/4"
6 Frame Side Elevations
3 17/8"
Pipe clamps
14 I-bar clamps
9 81/49" 583/4"
4 10"3 291/2" 4
8 541/2" 11 1/2" 31/4" 11/2" 31/4"
3
/4" x 2 3/4" oak back
38 /2"1 13 1 / 4 " 5 3
/4 " Clam
8 for handscrew
Pivot hinge location
Leg
clamp brackets.
691/2" Drill pilot holes and screw
3
/4" 3 3
/4" wide x 1/4" 13/4"
/4" wide 5 x 3/8" deep rabbet
14 2" Magnetic catch
bracket to left side of cabinet. 61/2"
deep rabbet Retainers
21 out wedge, then trim one Handscrew
Cut 46 1
/2"
clamp bracket
301/2"
1
corner of wedge square. 6 /4" Oak ban
Rabbet main block and glue 14 Cut Frame
out Side
wedge, thenElevations
trim one
corner
Pipe of wedge square.
clamps I-bar clamps 621/2"
wedge into place. 9 9 4
15"
3
/4"
35/8" Rabbet main block and glue
3
/4"13 wedge into
31/4"5
place. 31/4"
831/43"1//44"" Oak banding 11/2" 3 /8" 53/4" 11 /2"
1
Clam
38 /2"
1
1" 3 /2"
/4" Leg
Pivot hinge location47" 13/4"
Lower 3/4" wide x 1/4" Pipe Clamp Fixture Elevations 13/4" 54 /2"
1

2"BracketMagnetic deep rabbet catch Drill 3


18 /2" a 1 /8" hole, then cut 6 /2"
1 1
Lower Pipe Clamp Fixture
Upper the remaining 3
/4" waste
with 1your table saw. (Top View) Bracket Drill a
(End View) Bracket
Cut out30wedge,/2" then trim one the re
corner of wedge square. 62 /2"
1 Upper
1
3
/4" 25 25
Bracket with y
/4" Oak banding
Mount magnetic catches Rabbet main block and glue 461/2"
wedge into place.
7
/8"
8"
1
behind upper inside corners /4" Oak banding
of cupboard doors. 35/8" 13/8" 11/4"
21/4" 21
1
/4" Oak banding 3
/4"
1" / 2"
1

" wide x /8" 3/43" 3 1 /4"


3
1" 1 /2"
1
1 /2"
1
2" 541/2"
eep rabbet 1 /4" 11/2" 11/2"
Drill pilot holes and screw 2"
Lower Pipe Clamp Fixture Elevations 38 /2"
1 1
3
/4" bracket to left side of cabinet. 181/2"
11/2"
3
Bracket /4" wide x 3/8"
ht27Side /4" Drill pilot holes 25 and/8"screw
3
1
Elevation Side Door Elevation deep rabbet Retainers Drill a 1 / 8 " hole, then cut 5

62 1
/ 2" Upper the remaining waste bracket to left side of cabinet.
3
/4" Bracket with your table saw.
Frame Side1 Elevations /2"
1

461/2" 18 3
/4 " 25 25

PianoPipehingeclamps I-bar clamps1


/4" Walnut banding
Frame 307 1/2"Side Elevations
/8"
Pipe clamps I-bar clam
1 31/4" 1 31/4" 3
pe. 14
4 49 9 9 9
x 3/8"
bbet Technical Drawings
63/4" 8
8
Clamping Station 8
8
13 13

3
/ 4"
3
/4" 3
strikeplate and block 3
/4" wide x 3/8" deep rabbet 2" /4" wide x 3/8" deep
Magnetic catchrabbet 2" Magnetic ca

Cut out wedge, then trim one


4 corner of wedge square.
3 4
Rabbet main block and glue
wedge into place.
35/8"
3
/ 4"
691/2" 13/4"
3
/4" wide x 1/4"
3
13/4x" 1/4"
/4" wide 13/4"
deep rabbet deep rabbet
Lower Pi
Bracket
621/2" Up
3
/ 4" 3
/4"Bra

583/4"

541/2"

3
/ 4" 3
/4"
Drill pilot holes and
bracket to left side
1
k banding /4" Oak banding
461/2" 46
Frame
Pipe clamps

11/2" 3 1/ 4
7" 381/2" 381/2"
11/2" 11/2" Pivot hinge location

1 1/ 2" 11/2"

301/2" 301/2"

11/4"
21/4" 21/4" 21/4"
1 1
/4" Oak banding /4" Oak banding
1"
1" 1"
25 /8"
5
181/2" 181/2"

25

103/8"
1 /4"
1
3
/4" wide x 3/8" / 4"
3
2"
3
/4" wide x 3/8"1" 3/4" 2" 1 1/ 2" 1"
deep rabbet deep rabbet 11/2
3
/4" wide x 3/8"
levation Right Side
Divider Elevation
Elevation Side Door
Right Side Elevation
Elevation deep rabbet Side Door Elev
3 6 cutting plywood
12 to shape.14
4 9 9
5 6
Technical Drawings
3
/4" wide x 3/8"
Clamping
8
Station 3
/4" wide x 1/4" 13 deep rabbet
8
deep rabbet

/4"
3
3
3
/4" wide x 3/8" deep rabbet /4" wide x 3/8" deep rabbet 2" Magnetic catch strikeplat
Magnetic catch

3
/4" 11/4" Cut ou
Spring catch corne
4
3 2 9" Rabbe
wedg
Bar
Bar clamp bracket clamp
41" bracket
" Oak banding /8"
7 13/4"
3
/4" wide x /4" 1
13/4"
deep rabbet 11/4" L
3
/4" wide x /4" 1
9" 9" 1 /8"
1 B
deep rabbet 621/2"
43/4" 3
/4"
1
/4" /4"
3 17/8"

10" 291/2" 81/4"


3
/4" x 2 3/4" oak back
11/4"
for handscrew 541/2"
clamp brackets. Supplies
/4"
3 Clamp Caddy
112" x 36" Piano Hinge (4 req.)..........#19283
3/8" Oak Plugs (1 pack req.).............#20842
Handscrew
1
/4" Oak banding 3/8" Walnut clamp bracket
Plugs (2 packs req.) ....#20875
134" Wood Knobs (2 required)
1
/2"
46.........#23101
Magnetic Catches (3 required) ........#26559
15"
Brass Shelf Supports (1 pack req.) ..#30437
Glider Hinges (2 required) ...............#51243

381/2" 47"
1 /2"
1 1 /2"1
Pivot hi

11/2" 11/2"

3
/4" wide x 3/8" 301/2"
deep rabbet Mount magnetic catches
8"
1
behind upper inside corners /4" Oak banding
of cupboard doors. 11/4"
2 /4" 21/4" 2 /4" 21/4"
1 1

1
/4" Oak banding

1" 1" 2"


25 /8"
5
27 /4"
1
181/2"

183/4"
Piano hinge 1
/4" Walnut banding

103/8" 10"
1" 11/4"
/4"
3
3
/4" wide x 3/8" /4" wide x 3/8" 3
2"
deep rabbet deep rabbet

3
/4" wide x 3/8"
3
/4"
Divider
LeftElevation
Side Elevation Right Side Elevation
Carcass Elevation Side Door Elevation deep rabbet
Technical Drawings Router Dadoing Jig
Front Rail Return
(Top Views) (Right Side) 2" 61/2"
(Left Side)
Depth setters
3
3
24"
Rail
(Front View)
* 24"

2 1"
72"
Hold Down Clamp
Subassembly * This measurement is determined by the size of your router.
(Side View)

Hex bolt (piece 23)

21 Connector nut (piece 24)


Hex nut: provided with the Front and Back Rail Subassembly Detail
clamp.
22 Clamp bolt with rubber 13 Track on left side
hold down: also provided
with the clamp. /2"
1 11/8"
3 4
/8"
1

/4"
3

Centering Stop 2
2
(Front View) (Side View)
18 /4"
3

1
1
/4" /8"
5

14 14
6 11/4"
15 15 11/4"
7 11
Router Rest
/4"
(Top View)
13
3

/8"
* *
7

Guide and Under


3
/4"
6
1
/2"
Rail Detail 11 11/4"
(Section View)
7
21/4" 71/2"
43/4"
9
Flip-up Sliding Stop
(End View) NOTE: piece 10 is
the same as piece
9, without the 2"
rounded aspect.
18 20
These measurements are
45 chamfer The fixed stop is *determined by the size of your router.
identical to the flip-up
16
stops: simply glue
Sliding Stop piece 17 to piece 16
Machining Detail in the exact orientation
19 17 shown at left.
18 Supplies
Dado Routing Jig
Star Knobs (5 required).................................#23812
16 45 chamfer
Aluminum T-Tracks (3 required) ...................#21753
/16"
13
/16"
5

T-Slot Bolts (5 required) ..............................#83311


Center the T-Bolt Post Clamp ....................................................#29179
/32"
3 hole on the raised Walnut Plugs (1 pack req.)............................#20875
19 track tenon.
112" x 36" Piano Hinge ..................................#19283
Please call for current pricing 800-610-0883
SIP_WP2.47 10/21/05 10:07 AM Page 47

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39 99 capacity: 3'' @ 90; 2-1/2'' @ 45, Arbor: 5/8'',

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quired air pressure: 50-60 PSI; Air consump-
44914-2KTA 16-1/4''W, Extension wing: 9-3/4'' L x 16-1/4''
W, Miter gauge scale: 30 to 60 left & right,
94000-0KTA tion: 14 CFM; Output: 200-300 CCs per minute; 3 PC. STRAIGHT Miter gauge groove: 5/8'' slot, Dust collection
Nozzle size: 1.5mm; Cup capacity: 0.6ML; Air ROUTER BIT SET port: 2-1/4'' I.D., Overall dimensions: 38-1/2''
34 DEGREE NAILER
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C2 carbide tips 1/2 OFF
SPEED CONTROL hose to pick up large chips from jointers, saws,
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Raised panel bit specs:1-1/2'' profile width;
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routing tough woods, plastics, even alumi- Lockable on/off toggle switch Amps: 1.3 Speed: 2400 RPM rail bit: 7/16'' profile width; 7/8'' cutter height.,
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Winter 2006 47
SIP_WP2.48 10/26/05 10:26 AM Page 48

The Ultimate
Clamping Station
Organize all your clamps and glue-up supplies within
arms reach, and enjoy the advantages of the space-saving
fold-down clamping tableyoull never have to scrape
glue off your workbench again.
Glue supply

C-clamps

Pipe and
I-bar clamps C-clamps

Joinery biscuits

Joinery dowels
Light-duty
bar clamps

Spring clamps

Medium-duty Wood buttons


bar clamps and plugs

Straight edge
Handscrew clamps
clamps

Fold-down Dowel rod


clamping table clamping pads

Miscellaneous
supplies
Power tools

48 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.49 10/21/05 5:22 PM Page 49

After youre
finished with a
glue-up, the
clamping station
closes flat and
takes on a clean,
modular
appearance.
Youll appreciate
this if floor space
is in short supply
in your shop.

f youve got a typical home shop,

I you probably store clamps wher-


ever you can find a little spare
space. Glue bottles are on a far
off shelf, dowels and biscuits are in a
cupboard and your clamping pads
are stored in a box. Sound familiar?
Maybe a deluxe clamping station
isnt the top project on your to-do
list, but it could centralize your
clamping supplies and put an end to
the mad scrambles you might go
through just before a glue-up. right side panel, band the front holes through the walls, top and
Better yet, the days of giving up edge completely, but only glue bottom for the screws. Glue and
your workbench for use as a banding to the 2" at each end of the screw the back into place and cover
clamping table are over. back edge, as shown in the Exploded the screwheads with walnut plugs.
View on page 50. The unbanded Now trim the door front (piece 13)
Cutting Your Plywood to Size edge will provide the mor tise for and glue it into the side door
The bulk of the clamping station the piano hinges. assembly. You may want to use a
is made of white oak plywood. Lay Continue working with the panels hand plane to shave the door fronts
out your panels, as shown on the by plowing the rabbets and dadoes edges to get a perfect slip-fit.
Plywood Cutting Layouts on the for the joints with your table
Pinup Shop Drawings. Cut the saw and a 3/4" dado blade, as Completing the Carcass
pieces slightly oversize with a shown in the Carcass and Side Door Cut plywood for the cupboard
circular saw and straightedge, then Elevations. Next, slip each joint doors (pieces 14) and glue oak
recut the pieces to final size on a together and drill counterbored banding to three edges of each
table saw. It makes the sheets more pilot holes for #8-112" screws (pieces panel (see Exploded View). Cover
manageable to break down and 10), temporarily driving the screws the four th edge with 1/4"-thick
bumps up cutting accuracy a nudge. as you go. After drilling all the walnut banding (pieces 15).
Now rip banding (pieces 1) and holes, take the assemblies apar t, Cut two piano hinges (pieces 16)
glue it to the front edges of the left spread glue in the joints and to length for the cupboard doors,
side panel and divider, the right side per manently screw the pieces then install the doors and hinges in
panel, the top, bottom and fixed together again. Glue walnut plugs the cabinet. Make sure the doors
shelf (pieces 2 through 7). In (pieces 11) into the counterbores swing shut without banging into
addition, band both edges of the and sand them flush. each otherplane the walnut edges
panels for the side door (pieces 8 Slip the back panel (piece 12) into if necessar y. Next, mount the
and 9), with one exception: On the the carcass assembly and drill pilot magnetic door catches (pieces 17)

Winter 2006 49
SIP_WP2.50 10/28/05 2:54 PM Page 50

1 5 18

29
30

1 2

3
12
4

27
Planning Ahead: 17
Clamping 11
7
Station Project
20
Constructing the clamping 10
station will require about 30 11
hours of shop time. Youll need 19
a circular saw, table saw, jigsaw
and drill. A dado blade is also 1
called for extensively. Finish the
project in varnish or lacquer. 16
3 sheets of 3/4" 15
white oak plywood
15 board feet of 3/4" white oak 14
4 board feet of 3/4" walnut
3 board feet of 134" walnut
One 24" x 24" piece of 6
1/8" acrylic 22
1

MATERIAL LIST (Carcass)


T xW x L T xW x L
1 Oak Banding (10) 1/4" x 3/4" x 96" 12 Back (1) 3/4" x 48" x 7514"
2 Left Side (1) 3/4" x 1334" x 76" 13 Side Door Front (1) 3/4" x 1034" x 7514"
3 Divider (1) 3/4" x 13" x 7514" 14 Cupboard Doors (2) 3/4" x 1714" x 2612"
4 Right Side (1) 3/4" x 7" x 76" 15 Walnut Banding (1) 1/4" x 3/4" x 60"
5 Top (1) 3/4" x 1334" x 4814" 16 Piano Hinges (4) 112" x 36" (brass finish)
6 Bottom (1) 3/4" x 1334" x 4814" 17 Door Catches (3) Magnetic
7 Fixed Shelf (1) 3/4" x 13" x 3612" 18 Block (1) 3/4" x 114" x 2"
8 Side Door Sides (2) 3/4" x 634" x 76" 19 Door Knobs (3) 134" Dia. (beech)
9 Side Door Top/Bottom (2) 3/4" x 634" x 1034" 20 Shelf Supports (4) 1/4" Dia. Posts
10 Screws (100) #8-112" 21 Adjustable Shelf (1) 3/4" x 1212" x 3534"
11 Walnut Plugs (100) 3/8" Dia. 22 Feet (6) 3/4" x 234" x 234"

50 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.51 10/28/05 2:54 PM Page 51

Clamping
Table
Elevation 23
31/4"
11/2"
28 10
1" 23
24
11/2"
11 /2" Rip at 7 angle
27
26
Lay out the
appropriate
notches for
your style of 11
clamps.
10 25
MATERIAL LIST (Table)
T xW x L
23 Sides (2) 3/4" x 3" x 36"
Angling the legs 24 Front (1) 3/4" x 3" x 3412"
increases the 25 Legs (2) 3/4" x 234" x 32"
stability of the 25
clamping table. 26 Stop (1) 3/4" x 3" x 3312"
27 Pivot Hinges (4) Heavy-duty
28 Oak Plugs (50) 3/8" Dia.
Cut at 7 angle
29 Spring (1) 1/2" x 112" x 514"
30 Catch Base (1) 134" x 212" x 112"

and drill pilot holes for the door


knobs (pieces 19), as shown in the
Carcass Elevation on the Pinup
Shop Drawings.
Inside the the cupboard drill rows
of 1/4" holes (see the Carcass
Elevation) for the shelf suppor ts
(pieces 20), using a strip of
pegboard as a template. Now cut
plywood for the adjustable shelf
(piece 21) and glue oak banding to
its front edge. Wrap up the carcass
by cutting the feet (pieces 22) to
size and screwing them to the
underside of the bottom panel.

Making the Clamping Table


The clamping table is a great
space saver. When its not in use it
swings out of the way, yet when you
need to clamp a panel together its
right at your fingertips and within
reach of all your clamps. Youll also
appreciate the fact that the table
supports a panel at a comfortable
With notches holding the bar clamps or pipe clamps steady, the fold-
working heightmuch better than down clamping table is ideal for gluing-up panels. Youll get even
clamping at the bench or down better results using dowel pads that direct the clamping pressure
on the floor. exactly at the center of the panels edge.

Winter 2006 51
SIP_WP2.52 10/28/05 2:54 PM Page 52

1
Storage 17

9
1

Storage
Strategy
In addition to storing 13
glue, dowels, biscuits
and light-duty clamps,
keep some 3/4"
dowels on hand for
use as clamping
pads. When gluing-up
a panel the dowels
direct the clamping
pressure right where
its needed.

16

19
1
Storage Bins
with acrylic fronts and
dividers keep small joinery
supplies organized and in
full view.

1/8"-thick
acrylic

8
1/4" walnut
banding 16

Storage Shelves
with a tall front lip are
ideal for holding extra 10 11
glue bottles, solvents
and band clamps.
8

3/4" oak
plywood

(See Material List Side


Door on page 50.) 9
Form a lip on the
shelf using wide 1
walnut banding

52 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.53 10/28/05 4:03 PM Page 53

Table
Catch Outfitting Your
The wood
spring lock
allows quick
Clamping Station
release of the
fold-down Simplicity is the key to designing
clamping clamp supports and other clamping
table. station fixtures. If they work in different
situations and are easy to make and
install, youll get the most mileage out
Glue into base, then of the design. Once youve made the
screw the catch fixtures, move them around to find the
to the cabinet best arrangement in your cabinet.
Keep your heavy-duty clamps close to
the clamping table, where theyre used
most often, and put the light-duty
To build the clamping table, cut clamps and other supplies in the side
oak for the sides, front and legs, and compartment and door.
cut walnut for the stop (pieces 23
through 26). Shape the ends of the Spring Clamps and
legs with a jigsaw, as shown in the
C-clamps
Simple wood bars are sufficient
Elevation Drawings on page 51. Cut for hanging these light-duty
the bottom end of each leg at a 7 clamps. Be sure to size the
back-up blocks to accommodate
angle so that its more difficult to the clamp sizes in your shop.
accidently kick the legs out from
under the table. Use the jigsaw to
notch the frame sides (see the
drawings) to form holders for your
bar or pipe clamps, then cut Drive screws through
the dado near the end of each block into back of cabinet
piece with your table saw and a
3/4" dado blade.
Now drill holes for the pivot
hinges (pieces 27) in the frame
sides, legs and carcass, as shown in
the Clamping Table Elevation (page
51) and on the other carcass
elevation drawings. Install the frame
sides in the carcass with the hinges,
then glue the front rail into the side Bar Clamps and Handscrew Clamps
rail dadoes. Drill counterbored pilot For balance, install two brackets at different Offset brackets
holes into these joints and drive the heights to support each set of bar clamps. keep clamps
Handscrew clamps, on the other hand, balance
screws, then cover the screws with on a single bracket once the jaws are tightened.
level
oak plugs (pieces 28). Next, join the
legs to the frame sides with the
pivot hinges and mount the walnut
stop to the front legs with screws Pipe and I-bar Clamps
Because theyre heavy and
and plugs. unsteady, these clamps should
The catch (pieces 29 and 30) for be stored in individual slots.
The lower bracket carries the
holding the clamping table closed is weight while the upper bracket
shown on page 50. Lay out the assembly pins the clamps in
spring shape on the edge of some for safe keeping.
oak stock and band-saw it to shape.
Sand the piece smooth and cut the
base to size. Kerf the base with a
table saw blade to fit the spring and
glue the pieces together. Glue and
screw the catch to the roof of the Make lower
Screws hinge retainers bracket from one
main cabinet compartment. to upper bracket piece of wood

Winter 2006 53
SIP_WP2.54 10/21/05 5:24 PM Page 54

Adding Clamp Supports and Bins assembly into the compartment so The best place for storing pipe
All the fixtures you can the strikeplate is just a hair past and I-bar clamps is on the outside of
make for the side door and side the front edge of the cabinet. the cabinet. For the upper clamp
compartment are versatile enough This will allow the magnetic bracket glue two pieces of walnut
to hold a variety of clamps and shop catch to fully contact the strikeplate. face to face, then lay out notches.
supplies. You may need to Finally drill a pilot hole for the door Use a Forstner or spade bit to drill
redesign some of them or come up knob (piece 19). the ends of each notch, then remove
with designs of your own to suit Now make the fixtures for the the rest of the waste with your table
your tools. In addition, we side compartment, as shown page saw. Next, rip a 1/2" x 1/2" strip of
recommend that you use our fixture 52. Cut walnut bars and blocks for walnut for the retainers and cut
sizes and layouts as a guide (theyre the C-clamp and spring clamp them to length for spanning each
not in the Material List) and hangers, and glue them together. notch. Screw the retainers into
spend time figuring out the best Drill counterbored pilot holes place. Cut the lower bracket out of
position for each bracket according and screw the hangers to the back one thick piece of walnut. Screw the
to your needs. of the compartment. brackets to the side of the cabinet
Begin by making the fixtures for Cut two more walnut bars for the and plug the holes.
the side door. Install shelves and dowel bin and install them by
bins in the door for holding all sorts driving screws through the divider Finishing Up
of glue-up odds and ends, including and right side wall into the ends Stain the door knobs dark brown
glue bottles and a scraper, fluted of the bars. and give the clamping station two
and spiral dowels, biscuits, band To make the fixtures for the main coats of var nish or lacquer to
clamps, clean-up rags and a can or compartment, lay out and cut the protect it from glue drips. Slide the
two of solvent. Build the shelves and clamp brackets to shape (see page cabinet into position and screw it
bins, as shown on the previous 53) and band-saw as many as you to the wall to prevent it from
pages, to span the width of your think youll need. Screw the tipping forward once the clamps are
door. The walnut strip on the front brackets to baseplates, then screw loaded up.
of each shelf rises 1" above the the baseplates to the back panel. Fill
plywood to prevent your supplies the counterbores with oak plugs.
from falling of f. The see-through
acrylic bin fronts and dividers slip
nicely into 1/8" grooves cut with a
standard table saw blade. Be sure to
cut the grooves in the plywood
before adding the walnut strip to the
front edge (other wise youll cut
through the walnut).
Mount the shelves and bins by
driving screws through the door
sides into the plywood base of each
fixture. Remember to counterbore
all the pilot holes and fill them with
walnut plugs.
Our piano hinge lengths were 36", If you like the design
of this clamping
so we butted two hinges end-to-end station, why not
to mount the side door to the start a system of
cabinet. Once the door is in place other wall cabinets
screw the magnetic catch to the top and tool organizers
panel and cut a block (piece 18) for based on the same
style? Youll end up
holding the strike plate in the side with a shop that looks
compartment. Screw the strikeplate as good as it stays
to the block, then glue this neatly organized.

54 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.55 10/25/05 12:25 PM Page 55

MICROFENCE
Fine precision
measurement system
for the hand-held router

Mill
ree-Axis
h
ble T
Porta

Inlays-Hinges-Locks-Mortises

Dadoes-Rabbets-Flutes

Straight-Line Work

Portable Three-Axis Mill Ellipses-Arches Circles-Mating Curves

MICRO FENCE

800-480-6427 WWW.MICROFENCE.COM
SIP_WP2.56 10/26/05 2:58 PM Page 56

Trapped Wedge Layout Gauge


This quick-set marking gauge features
a knife cutter that scribes razor-thin
layout lines either with or across
the grain. Itll be a handsome
and useful addition to
your fine tool collection.

alf the challenge of cutting one board foot of 3/4" stock. Buy a This may seem odd, but through

H tight dovetail or mortise


and tenon joints is getting
them laid out precisely.
A standard marking gauge featuring
a sharp pin for a marker does a fine
1/4" spade bit for the knife stock,
which youll regrind to achieve the
correct edge.

Start Your Cutting


experiencemeaning goof-ups
weve learned to avoid the age-old
headache of fitting parts together
the wrong way. By cutting the beam
in this manner it will fit into the
job scribing lines that follow the Its always safer to cut smaller gauge head correctly ever y time.
grain, but it tends to tear the wood pieces from larger ones, so begin Rip the beam to size, then rip a
when going across the grain. making your cutting gauge by 1 1 4"-wide piece for the par ts that
A knife tip makes a cleaner line than ripping a slice of rosewood for the make up the head assembly (pieces
a pin on cross grain; it cleanly splines (pieces 1). These will 5, 6 and 7). Trim all the pieces 1/4"
severs the wood fibers to establish eventually slip into a saw blade kerf, longer than their finished sizes.
a precise shoulder, which helps so cut a saw groove in some scrap Ar range the head pieces for
guide a chisel or saw during the to test the fit. Next, rip a 1/4"-thick assembly, matching their grain
joint-cutting process. by 8"-long strip that will be used patterns so they appear to be one
Besides the knife cutter, this later for the beam inser t and the piece, and mark the front face of the
gauge features a trapped wedge, small wedge (pieces 2 and 3), and
which allows for quick, one-handed slice a 1/2"-thick strip for the large
adjustments and eliminates the wedge (piece 4). Sand off the saw
need for special hardware. Many marks and cut the splines and
hand tools constructed 150 years large wedge to length.
ago, when hardware was costly and Cut the beam (piece 8)
more difficult to come by, utilized so that its width and
the trapped wedge. thickness are unequal.
Traditionally, rosewood is the
wood of choice for gauges of this
type. This project requires less than

56 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.56-59 Trapped Wedge.CM 10/28/05 3:11 PM Page 57

Large Wedge Head Assembly


(Side View) (Front View)

4 5
/8"
9
/16" 1
7 6 5
/4"
13
/16" 23/4"
43/8" 1
11
/16" /2"
Start machining
by dadoing out
shaded area. 1
/4"

6
Small Wedge Assembled Top View
(Side View) 3 3 3
5 /4" /4" /4"
/16" 5
5
/16"
1
/4"
4 11/4"

3
/4" 1 6 8 2 1
/4"
17/8"
3
Hole length tapers
7 from 11/32" at top to
5/16" at bottom

3
/16"

3
Assembled Side View 9

11
/16" 8 1
/2" 4
5

11/4"

9 1
7
6
1

3
4

MATERIAL LIST (Layout Gauge)


5 T xW x L
8 1 Splines (4) 1/8" x 3/8" x 1116"
1 2 Beam Insert (1) 1/4" x 3/4" x 4"
3 Small Wedge (1) 1/4" x 5/16" x 4"
2 4 Large Wedge (1) 1/2" x 3/4" x 438"
5 Side Head (1) 3/4" x 114" x 234"
6 Center Heads (2) 3/4" x 114" x 1"
7 Side Head (1) 3/4" x 114" x 234"
8 Beam (1) 3/4" x 11/16" x 8"
9 Cutter (1) 1/4" Spade bit

Winter 2006 57
SIP_WP2.58 10/28/05 4:23 PM Page 58

Flush
with edge
Figure 1: softwood scraps. First, draw the
For a safe Figure 4:
pitch for the wedge taper, then mark Cut the
ripping operation 11/4"
on such thin
this measured wedge with an X tapered
stock, use a 1/16" Overhang (see Figure 2). Next, cut a 1/4" x dado in
hold-down block 112" x 12" piece of plywood and nail several
passes,
to keep the material pressed tightly it to the wedge stock so its aligned
to the saw table throughout the cut. moving the fence a little for each pass.
with the pitch line and covering the
side marked with the X. With your
assembly so you can reorder it fence set at 112", rip the wedge stock Assembling the Head Pieces
again later. Next, separate the while the plywood rides against the After a careful sanding, dr y-
pieces and rip a 3/16"-deep groove fence, as shown in Figure 3. assemble the head pieces and
in the center of each adjoining edge Trim the wedge ends so theyre splines around it, sanding the 3/4"
for inserting the splines. For perfect identical. Complete the jig by dimension of the beam, if necessary,
alignment, be sure to always run nailing the wedges to a 3/4" x 312" x so it slides through the opening.
the front face of each piece against 14" board (see Figure 4), and nail a To prevent the beam from
the saw fence during these cuts. fence block on top bonding to the head, coat its first
Ripping the splines to their final of the wedges. 2" with paraffin wax. Now glue the
size requires a special hold-down To use your head and spline pieces together
block. Cut a block measuring 3/4" x tapered dado jig, and, while pinching the assembly
4" x 9", and screw a thin, narrow just raise your with your fingers, quickly clean out
piece to its back end as shown in table saw blade 1" the excess glue in the opening. Slip
Figure 1, left. Set the blade height at and set the fence the waxed end of the beam into the
3/8" and rip your spline, using the 114" away. Push the head assembly and clamp
block to hold it tightly to the table. jig into the blade everything tight in both directions
Next, crosscut the strip into four until the center of (top to bottom and side to side).
Figure 3:
segments (pieces 1) and check their the blade just Jig for making the Later, when the glue has dried, you
fit in the head piece grooves you passes under the tapered dado. can sand the beams 1116" dimension
just made. front of the fence so it slides in the opening easily,
block. At this point, clamp a stop to trim the head to final size and
Cutting the Head Dado the saw fence in front of the jig, as chamfer all its edges and corners.
The bottom of the dado in the side shown in Figure 4. Draw a line on
head (piece 5) is tapered to fit the the front edge of the fence block Making the Trapped Wedge
large wedge. The tapered dado jig 1/4" from its bottom and raise the Begin making a the trapped
for making the cuts is built from saw blade to hit the line. wedge (piece 4) by ripping the
Make your cut by placing the side stock you cut earlier to 5/8" wide
2 1/8" head (piece 5) on the jig with its and cutting a dado as shown in the
11/4"
marked front facing the fence block Large Wedge Side View on page 57.
and one end bearing against the saw Once the dado is cut, remove one of
fence. Make your first pass, then the wedges from the tapered dado
Figure 2: Begin making continue moving the saw fence to jig and nail a stop to its wide end to
the jig for cutting a make several more passes until the make a tapering jig for the large
10"
tapered dado by laying dado is 1/2" wide. Be sure to fine- wedge (see Figure 5). Set the
out a 1:20 slope on a tune the last pass so the dado fits wedge against the taper jig and rip
3/4" x 214" x 10" piece of
the large wedge precisely, then the piece, splitting the lead corner
scrap wood, then label
the measured wedge smooth the dados angled bottom with the blade. For safety, use
with an X. with a file. scrap wood to press down on the

3/4"
58 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.59 10/28/05 4:29 PM Page 59

Four easy steps to


grind the cutter

Taper
jig

Step 1:
Get started by
Figure 5: To use your
Fence beam insert. To cut the strip in half, grinding the tip of
tapering jig, adjust the
saw fence so the cut set your tapering jig against the your 1/4" spade bit to a
table saws miter gauge, then place 90 point, making sure you
splits the leading
remove the original cutting
corner of the stock. the strip against the jig. The edges.
During the cut, be sure resulting angled cut is just what you
to control the trapped wedge stock with a
need for the end of the beam insert.
narrow hold-down block.
Sand one of the pieces to fit into the
slot in the beam, then glue it into
wedge as you cut. Now center the place with the angled end pointing
wedge in the dado to see if its back into the beam and leaving a 5/16"-
edge is flush with the shoulder of long hole on the bottom side for the
the larger hole. If the fit isnt right, cutter and the small wedge. Trim
continue trimming the wedge in of f the excess when its dr y, and Step 2:
very small increments, then shape chamfer the ends of the beam. Grind the shaft
above the blade to
the ends of the wedge with a A a stout knife blade (piece 9) is
lengthen the flat area to
coping saw and a file. easy to resharpen, and weve found 2", then file the edges
that regrinding a 1/4" spade drill bit square so the bit is just under
Cutting the Beam Slot is ideal (see sidebar at right). In use, 1/4" wide.
The hole in the beam that holds the knifes bevel should always face
the knife and small wedge is the waste side of the work, leaving a
tapered on its for ward edge. square shoulder on the proper side
It sounds unor thodox, but this is of the cut.
easily done on the table saw. Make Use the remaining 1/4"-thick
the jig shown in Figure 6, then use piece for the small wedge (piece 3).
it to cut a 1/4"-wide by 114"-deep slot First taper one edge on the table
in the end of the beam (remember, saw with the tapering jig, then plane
the beam isnt square, so be sure to the piece to width and cut it to
cut into its wider edge). length (see Small Wedge Detail on
Earlier you cut a 1/4"-thick strip page 57). Shape the top of the
for making the small wedge and the wedge with a file and smooth any Step 3:
saw marks. Hone the back
of the blade on your
Final Assembly and Finishing sharpening stones, then,
3/4" Slip the cutter into the beam hole while rounding the end into a
fingernail shape, grind a 25 bevel.
and install the small wedge. Trim
the end of the wedge so its flush
11
/16" with the bottom of the beam, then
91/2" pull it back out to chamfer the end
with a file. Coat the gauge with a
penetrating oil-type finish and put
more wax on the beam so it slides
easily. Youll quickly find that the
trapped wedge locks with slight
hand pressure to maintain the exact
position you set it at. Step 4:
Figure 6: Cutting a 114"-deep slot for the beam Hone the bevel with
insert is safe and easy using this jig. a slipstone and finish up by hacksawing
the cutter off the shaft 2" from the tip.

Winter 2006 59
SIP_WP2.60 10/26/05 2:25 PM Page 60

Deluxe Drum Sander


If you want to build a better mousetrap,
the best starting point is a list of the
limitations of your old one. Overall dimensions

s far as drum sanding on a

A drill press goes, most sand-


ing jigs lack dust control,
and the drums tend to clog
too soon. This jig addresses both
problems: It has a built-in dust col-
4"
121/2"

5"

121/2"
5"

lection port, and the drum can be


raised or lowered through the table-
top, so you can work with a new,
unclogged part of the sleeve as
often as needed.
Theres another advantage to this
jig: The cube in the center can be
revolved to present different sized 1/2" Plywood Plastic laminate
holes for various drum diameters,
so it supports the workpiece right
up to the drum. That makes it easier
to sand thin or delicate stock that
might other wise break off
or get trapped.
The inner cube measures
4" on all sides, and we built
it from 12" Finnish birch
plywood. Measure your six
most frequently used drums
and drill appropriately sized
holes in the cube. Then construct
the main box (also 12" stock) so
that the 4" cube is absolutely flush Magnets
with its top.
The vacuum por t in the jig is Dust
standard 114" I.D. plastic plumbing collection port
pipe, but youll have to adjust
that to fit your own shops dust
collector hose. Non-slip
T wo dozen 34"-diameter rare- rubber
ear th magnets hold the jig to the
drill press table, eliminating the
need for clamps. Drill 38"-deep
holes in the bottom for these
magnets and secure them with
silicone adhesive. Finally, cover the
bottom with non-slip rubber (the
type used on steps or ramps), and
youre ready to start sanding.

60 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.61 10/21/05 10:17 AM Page 61

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Winter 2006 61
SIP_WP2.62 10/28/05 3:17 PM Page 62

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62 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.63 10/25/05 12:24 PM Page 63

Precisely.

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Winter 2006 63
SIP_WP2.64 10/26/05 2:40 PM Page 64

Dovetail
Puzzle
Mallet

Even though this intriguing mallet design has been around for
centuries, the method for building it had nearly been lost. Thanks
to the counsel of experienced hand tool woodworker, Stephen
Sheperd, weve revived the methodology here. And, making this
mallet provides a double bonusyoull have a beautiful tool to
display and a powerful workhorse around the shop.

64 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.65 10/24/05 4:50 PM Page 65

Dovetailed tenons tapering towards the


handle make this mallet impossible to
assembleor do they? To get a handle
on the answer, read on.

here will always be a place in tails of a conventional dovetail joint consider switching to a round tenon

T woodworkers hearts for trick


joinery, if only for the sheer
delight of stumping their
friends with the finished product.
But seemingly impossible joints can
first and then making the pins to fit.
You can use any type of wood for
the head, as long as it is hard
enough to stand up to the abuse
you plan for it. Red oak, rosewood,
in the center rather than a square
one. This way, you can drill a hole
through the center of the head
much easier than chopping a long,
narrow mortise.
also be useful and fun to make. lignum vitae, ebony, maple and Lay out the dovetail slots on the
This mallet is a classic example walnut are all good options that take sides and the ends of the head
of a puzzle joint that is both useful a real pounding (no pun intended). exactly as they will appear in the
and a great exercise in hand tool Cut the head from a single block completed mallet (see the drawings
joinery. It is mystifying because the of wood, with the grain parallel to on page 66 and photos on the next
dovetails appear to taper in two the direction of swing, as shown in few pages). At the handle end, the
conflicting directions that would the drawings. Slope the faces of the dovetail is twice as deep as at the
make it impossible to assemble. head 5 from top to bottom to top of the mallet head. This creates
The secret is that the dovetails provide a natural striking angle. the secret taper that makes the joint
are ramped, or double-tapered, as It is not critical to create a center possible. It is impor tant that the
shown in the Elevation Drawings on tenon in the mallets head, but it will widest part of the ramped dovetail
page 66. A small shoulder where add strength, even on mallets with is the same width at both ends, as
the pins meet the handle covers up nar row heads. You might even youll see in the drawings.
the fact that the dovetail is deeper
at the bottom of the head. The joint
is tricky to assemble because the
two dovetail pins on the handle
have to be bent in order to get them
star ted into the ramped dovetail
slots on the sides of the head.
Though this puzzle mallet design
has been around for centuries, the
method for making it had nearly
been lost. In this ar ticle, well
explain how to make this useful
shop tool that doubles as a great
shop conversation piece.

Making the Head First


When making a puzzle mallet, its
a good idea to start with the head
and then fit the handle to it. This is Step 1: Gauge the depths of the dovetails on the top and bottom of the head, then mark the width
roughly the same as cutting the of the tails on the centerline.

Winter 2006 65
SIP_WP2.66 10/26/05 2:14 PM Page 66

The
Secret
Taper

The
slots are
twice as Bottom
deep at the
bottom
as they
are at
the Top
top.

(Top View)

1
/2" Ramped
dovetail
(End View) 5
/16"
1 slots are the
/2" 6"
secret to
this mallets This is a very
1
/2" 3
/4" seemingly tricky piece of
impossible joinery because
joints. you cant test-fit
the handle to
the mallet head
prior to the final
assembly.
5
/8"
23/4"

Mallet Head
(Side View) 1
/2"

For better
Shape the Handle
Make the mallet head
control, the
with its mortise and
mallets 3" dovetail slots first. Then
faces are
form the handle to fit the
beveled 3
/4" machining youve done in
at 5.
the head. Shape the
15"-long handle to please
5
5
/16" your sense of proportions.

66 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.67 10/21/05 5:37 PM Page 67

Step 2: The dovetails are half as deep at the top of the mallet head Step 3: Connect the scribe marks with a reliable straightedge and a
as they are at the bottom (where the handle enters). Scribe the depths sharp marking knife to ensure precise layout lines.
with a marking gauge.

The best and safest way to create bottom shoulders and sloped sides Check the softening process
the dovetail slots in the head is with of the pins with a handsaw. periodically by squeezing the pins
a dovetail saw, followed by a sharp A backsaw works well for this together. As soon as they bend
chisel to remove the waste material. purpose. If the wood is straight- easily, youre ready to assemble the
Saw the angled sides of the dovetail grained enough, you can carefully mallet. Star t by tightening one
slots first, then cut a couple more split it away with a chisel. Pare the clamp across the flat of the handle
ker fs between them, stopping at pins until they align with your layout (below the pins) to prevent the
your layout lines on the top and lines using a sharp chisel. wood from splitting as the pins are
bottom ends of the head, as shown This is a dif ficult joint because bent inward. Then, place another
in the five-step photo sequence you cant dr y-fit the handle to clamp near the ends of the pins
star ting on page 65. These ker fs the head to check the fit. You have and tighten it until the pins
provide a depth reference when to carefully check all of the are close enough together to fit
youre removing the waste wood measurements and angles on your into the dovetail ramps in the
with a chisel. Once the slots are cut, pins and tails to make sure they head, as shown in the lower right
drill or chisel out the mortise for the match their corresponding surfaces photo on the next page.
center tenon. perfectly. Its exacting work, but the Line up the center tenon with its
end result is quite satisfying if you mor tise and tap the end of the
Making the Handle work carefully and keep your handle with another mallet to force
The wood you pick for the handle patience in check. the joint together. Since the center
must be strong enough to stand up Once youve cut the pins and tenon is longer than the pins, it
to the abuse a handle on a mallet tenon, band-saw the rest of the goes into the mortise first and helps
gets, yet it should be flexible enough handle to its approximate shape, but align the pins when you engage
that the pins may be bent. Weve leave the final smoothing until later. them in the head.
found that ash and hickor y both Once the pins are par tway into
work well and that quar tersawn Assembling the Mallet the slots, you can remove the end
stock in either species is best for In order to assemble the mallet, clamp; the sides of the slots will
both strength and bending qualities. you will need to bend the pins guide the pins the rest of the way.
Lay out the tapered dovetail pins inward to meet the grooves in the To protect all the work youve done
and the center tenon to match the head. The pins are likely to be too on the handle, leave the other
slots in the head. Make the handle stiff to bend easily, so soak the pin clamp in place until it is completely
slightly wider than the head so the end of the handle for a few minutes seated in the head.
pins will stand proud when in boiling water to make it more Even with a tight friction fit, its
assembled. Also, allow about 1/8" of pliable. Use filtered or distilled water still a good idea to secure the joints
extra length on the pins and 1/2" on to reduce mineral staining. Cold with glue. We use hot hide glue. It
the tenon for ease of assembly, as water will also work, but it will take has a suitable working time and is
well explain later. longer to soften the wood, and you compatible with the moisture
Band-saw the waste between the risk staining the wood if you soak it saturating the boiled tenon and
pins and the tenon, then cut the for a long time. pins. With the tenon engaged and

Winter 2006 67
SIP_WP2.68 10/21/05 5:38 PM Page 68

Step 4: Saw the sides of the dovetail slots with a backsaw. Slice kerfs in Step 5: Chop out the waste with a chisel, working your way up from the
the slots middle to help you gauge the depth when paring. bottom end.

the hide glue br ushed into the takes a few days to dr y, so you
openings, firmly drive the handle might prefer a faster dr ying mix
home with a mallet. Wipe off any such as wood flour (fine sawdust)
excess glue that has been squeezed and hide glue.
out, then clamp the handle tightly When the filler is dr y, sand or
into the head until the glue and scrape the joints flush. The scraper
wood dries thoroughly. impar ts a smooth hand finish on
the tool that feels wonderful to the
Finishing Up touch. As a final finish, soak the
When the wood and the glue mallet in a 50/50 mixtur e of
have dried, trim the ends of the turpentine and linseed oil. Its an
pins and tenons flush with the appropriate finish for wooden tools
head and scrape or sand them and easy to reapply as necessary.
smooth. Then you can softly bevel Once the finish dries, its time to
the edges of the head and chamfer put your new handmade mallet to
or round the handle to final shape. work. Reach for it the next time
To fill any slight gaps in the you have some serious mortises to
joints, after they shrink, use an square up. Theres nothing quite
authentic 19th-centur y mixture of like swinging a mallet youve
linseed oil, whiting and a little dry made yourself.
powdered pigment. This mixture

After soaking the pins in boiling water to make


them pliable, clamp the ends together until
they line up with the oversized dovetail slots.
The second clamp keeps the handle from
splitting at the base.
Step 6: Clean up the slots with a sharp paring chisel.
Note the gradual slope of the opening, top to bottom.

68 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.69 10/21/05 11:09 AM Page 69

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70 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.71 10/28/05 3:59 PM Page 71

The Last
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Need!

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Biscuit Joiner

Your first plate joiner may not be a Lamello,


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Winter 2006 71
SIP_WP2.72 10/26/05 2:27 PM Page 72

The Most Versatile


Shelf-pin Jig
A drill stop Indexing Pin
made from a (Side View)
piece of dowel
1"
is a great way
to control
drilling depth. 1" 9

11/2" 8

1
/4"

NOTE: The bushings are


made from 38" steel tube
(14" i.d.) cut to length.
It is available at local
hardware stores.

Sliding Block
(Top, Front and End Views)

11/4" 1
3
/8" Dia. 1" R.
2" 2"
11/4" 3
3
/8" Dia.
1
/2" Handle Fence Detail
3
11/4" 11/4" /8" Dia.
NOTE: The holes
for the threaded
Sliding Block bolts must reach
(Top, Front and End Views) the holes for the
guide bars.
11/4" 1
3
MATERIAL LIST
/8" Dia.
2" 2" 2" 11/4" T xW x L
3
/8" Dia.
1 Sliding Blocks (2) 1" x 212" x 8"
1
/2" 2 Handle (1) 1" x 212" x 8"
3
11/4" 11/4" /8" Dia. 3 Handle Fence (1) 1" x 2" x 8"
Handle 4 Steel Bushings (5) 3/8" O.D. x 3/4"
(Top, Front and End Views) 5 Threaded Inserts (4) 1/4-20 x 3/4"

11/4" 2 Plow a 18" groove 6 Knurled-headed Bolts (4) 1/4-20 x 112"


1
to accept the 7 Guide Bars* (2) 3/8" Dia. x 15"
/4" Dia. handles fence.
8 Indexing Pin (1) 1/4" Dia. x 2"
3
11/4" /8" Dia.
9 Wooden Knob (1) 1" x 2" x 8"
3 1
/8" Dia. /2"
*Length may vary as desired.
11/4" 11/4" 1
/8" 1"

72 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.73 10/21/05 5:40 PM Page 73

hile metal shelf stan-

W dards are a strong and


versatile application for
cabinet and case con-
struction, they can sometimes
detract from the overall visual effect
of certain pieces of furniture. Heres
a quick jig you can build to hang
shelves from dowel pins instead of
standards. The jig allows you to drill
four holes per setting in rows at the
front and back of cabinet sides. To make best use of this jig, create a drill stop from a length of dowel so you can easily register
Because it is adjustable, the loca- the depth of your holes. Set up the jig and hold or clamp it in position to line up the shelf pin
tions for the rows of holes can easi- holes. Then simply drill down through the bushings.
ly be varied and set for casework of
different depths and dimensions. (pieces 4). These bushing holes fill them with a swipe of a permanent
The vertical relationship of the need to be drilled a bit undersized to marker.
holes is fixed at 2". The 3/8" O.D. get a good fit. Tap in the bushings The beauty of this jig is its
drill guide bushings work perfectly with a hammer and wooden block, versatility. You can even make a set of
for aligning a 1/4" drill bit. leaving them flush with the top longer guide bars to expand its
surface of the sliding blocks. indexing range.
Layout and Construction Threaded inserts (pieces 5) are
Because this jig will become a tool installed at both ends of the handle
in your shop, pay par ticular and one end of each sliding block. Evenly spaced shelf holes are generally
more attractive than metal shelf standards.
attention to stock preparation and They hold knurled-knob headed This simple and adjustable jig is sure to do
layout accuracy as you build it. bolts (pieces 6) that secure the long and valuable service
Begin by selecting the stock for the sliding blocks and handle to the in your shop.
wooden jig parts. We chose cherry guide bars in their desired
because its a tight-grained positions. Install the threaded
hardwood that holds bushings well, inserts so they are just flush with
and it is durable as well as attractive. the surface.
You could also use hard maple, The next step is to soften all the
birch, poplar or any dense hardwood sharp wood edges by rounding
as substitutes. After youve cut the them over with a sander. Then glue
hardwood parts to size and shape the two pieces of the handle and
(pieces 1, 2 and 3), lay out the holes fence together and drill a 1/4" hole
for the guide bars in the sliding for storing the indexing pin (piece
blocks and handle. Be sure to take a 8) when you dont need it. Make a
moment to plow the slight groove little knob (piece 9) from a section
for the handle fence at this time. of dowel to top off the indexing pin.
Refer to the Drawings on the With ever ything else done, sand
opposite page for all the the assembly with 120- through
construction details. Mark the hole 220-grit sandpaper and finish the
locations on the handle and use the wood with a protective topcoat of
handle as a guide for marking the your choice. We wrapped up
two sliding blocks. The holes will constr uction by marking the
need to be drilled slightly larger centerlines of each sliding block
than the guide bars diameter. with a woodburning tool outfitted
Next, with the handle and sliding with a chisel point. Or, you could
blocks on the guide bars, lay out the cut indexing marks through
holes for the five steel bushings the finish with a utility knife and

Winter 2006 73
SIP_WP2.74 10/28/05 3:28 PM Page 74


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74 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.75 10/27/05 4:04 PM Page 75

4HE IDEAL SPACE SAVING SOLUTION FOR g AND g 3TARTER +ITS AVAILABLE
CLAMPING CABINET DOORS AND PANELS
#OMES WITH SIX CLAMPS ENOUGH TO +IT )NCLUDES
CLAMP THREE DOORS OR PANELS AT ONE  CLAMPS
 ALIGNMENT BARS
TIME OR USE AS A SINGLE BAR CLAMP  STABILIZER BARS
3OLID STEEL CONSTRUCTION  PACKS OF RUBBER GUARDS
3TACKING CLAMP SYSTEM IS AS EASY AS  DRILL ADAPTER
   *UST CLAMP PANELS STACK gEM
HIGH AND LET gEM DRY

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BETWEEN   4HE 0ANEL 0RO IS
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PRICE THAT WONT WIPE OUT YOUR BUDGET /NLY

6ERTICAL DESIGN MAKES IT VERY EASY
0LUS
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0ORTABLE AND LIGHTWEIGHT FOR
EASY TRANSPORTATION TO THE JOB SITE
3EE THE
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Winter 2006 75
SIP_WP2.76 10/21/05 5:51 PM Page 76

Accurate Dadoes...
In a Hurry

76 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.77 10/21/05 5:44 PM Page 77

Quick and
Easy Grooves
Quick, easy and accurate ...
thats what youll get with this jig.
Its quick to set up (both depth
settings and dado placements),
and its quick when it comes to
making repeatable cuts: the sliding
hinged stops help you plow
successive indexed dadoes
(like those on matching bookcase
sides) in a hurry.
Because you move the router
across the stock not the stock
across a table saw its also a lot
easier (especially on your back).
And if you do any type of cabinetry,
from bookcases to entertainment
centers, youll find this jig
indispensible for plowing three
This jig provides quick and accurate setups styles of common dadoes:
stopped, through and sliding
when cutting through or stopped dadoes dovetail.

and sliding dovetails. The flip-up stops and


hold-down clamp firmly control your
workpiece. And when youre done,
the jig conveniently hangs on a
Through dadoes are the
wall for storage. easiest to make, although not
as attractive if they remain in
plain view.

Stopped dadoes allow you to hide


the forward aspect of the joint, but
they also force you to accommodate
the stopped portion of the joint with a
matching notch or rebate.

Sliding dovetails are a more


challenging variation of a dado.
The familiar wedge-like shape
creates a strong and attractive
mechanical joint.

Winter 2006 77
SIP_WP2.78 11/3/05 4:52 PM Page 78

18
he inspiration for this jig came 3

T from a bare-bones version that


hung in editor Rob Johnstones
family woodworking shop from
the day he set foot in it. Made from
fir plywood and nondescript scrap
16

19
25

2
16
18 17

20
17
lumber, it was constantly in demand.
Ours is made of oak and walnut, but
feel free to use whatever hardwood Stop Block Detail
scrap you have on hand to create
your own version.
Start by cutting the deck (piece 1)
from a sheet of melamine and the
rails (pieces 2) from hardwood
stock. Go ahead and cut the front
and rear rail returns (pieces 3 and
4) at the same time. Move to your
table saw, and with a dado head in
place, plow the long grooves in the
rails and the shallow rabbets on the
front and rear rail returns. Look to
the Exploded Drawings on the next
page and the Pinup Shop Drawings
for the machining details.
Remember most sheet stock these
days is just a bit under a tr ue Figure 1: Determining the space required for your router is critical to the
success of this jig. Measure your router and the two pieces of laminate
3/4" thickness. Check your grooves to get the exact dimension.
in scrap lumber to be sure they fit
properly. Now take a few moments
to find out how large an opening means theyll wear better for you. these notches with the help of a
you will need to create for your If the liners do begin to show wear, miter gauge.
router base. you can just peel them of f and Measure from the end of the rails
For this jig to be accurate, your replace them with fresh laminate. to the edges of your notch and cut
router must fit snugly between the (Voila!, good as new!) your front and rear rail returns into
guide rails. And to ensure smooth Measure the width of your router properly sized segments. Then look
sliding action, these rails are lined base plus the two pieces of the to the drawings for the location of
with plastic laminate. This also plastic laminate you will be using. the track groove in the face of the
This is the only way to arrive at the left front rail return segment. While
opening youll need for your router, youre at it, find the locations of the
as shown in Figure 1, above. quick depth-setting aids in the face
of the right front rail return. Use a
Taking Custom Measurements Forstner bit to bore these four 1"-
Take the measurement you found diameter stopped holes at exactly
for the router opening and transfer 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" depths.
it to the top edges of the rails, 24" These holes ser ve as instant bit
from one end (see the Pinup Shop depth setters when setting up a cut.
Drawings). Form a notch on each Now youre ready to star t the
rail to accommodate the router first assembly phase. Drill and
rest and receiver. We left the dado counterbore pilot holes, then attach
head in the saw to nibble out the rails to the deck with #8 x 114"

Melamine, an easy-to-find sheet stock, is a good choice for this shop jig, due to its hard plastic
surface and dimensional stability. It is sized in sheets measuring 49" x 97" to allow for trimming.
The factory edge is often damaged during shipping.

78 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.79 10/28/05 4:48 PM Page 79

4
Front Rail
Assembly
(Section View)

1
/8"
3 2
8
5
/8"
1
/4" 1

6 10
14
13

15
7
11

6
23
21
4
24 5
9 22
2

3 1

12

MATERIAL LIST
TxWxL TxWxL
1 Deck (1) 3/4" x 2612" x 72" 14 Centering Stop (1) 3/4" x 212" x (*)
2 Rails (2) 3/4" x 238" x 72" 15 Center Stop Return (1) 3/4" x 112" x (*)
3 Front Rail Return (1) 3/4" x 4" x 72" 16 Side Stop Tops (3) 3/4"" x 234" x 278"
4 Rear Rail Return (1) 3/4" x 212" x 72" 17 Side Stops (3) 3/4" x 238" x 278"
5 Walnut Plugs (bag) 3/8" Dia. flat 18 Stop Knobs (5) Plastic, 5/16" thread
6 Guide Rails (2) 3/4" x 212" x 39" 19 T-Bolts (5) Steel
7 Under Rails (2) 3/4" x 214" x 2578" 20 Stop Hinge (1) 112" x 36" (Piano)
8 End Spacer (1) 3/4" x 212" x (*) 21 Hold Down Clamp (1) Steel
9 Router Rest (1) 3/4" x 834" x 12" 22 Clamp Spacer (1) 3/4" x 212" x 4"
10 Router Receiver (1) 3/4" x 614" x 12" 23 Hex Bolt (1) 5/16" x 1" Steel
11 Laminate Liners (2) 1/16" x 114" x 2578" 24 Connector Nut (1) 5/16 I.D.
12 Deck Trim (2) 1/8" x 3/4" x 2612" 25 Hanger Cleats (2) 3/4" x 134" x 24"
13 Aluminum T-Tracks (3) 48" (*) Adjust these pieces lengths to accommodate your router.

Winter 2006 79
SIP_WP2.80 10/21/05 5:48 PM Page 80

Four holes
drilled to
specific depths
become a
feature that lets
you quickly set
your router to
predetermined
settings. Use a screws and glue (see Figure 2). Cap
Forstner bit to the screw holes with walnut plugs
bore these holes
to 18", 14", 38"
(pieces 5). Next, join the front and
and 12". Its rear rail retur n segments to the
quicker and deck/rail subassembly, again using
safer than glue and screws capped with
flipping the the walnut plugs. Check to be
router over to
measure from
sure the rail segments are square.
the base plate. Cut the guide rails and under rails
(pieces 6 and 7) to size. Move back
to the table saw and plow grooves
for more aluminum track down the

The center stop


not only allows
you to stop your
dadoes
accurately, but
it also lines up
your dado cuts to
the path of the
router bit. Use
contrasting paint
colors in shallow
saw kerfs to
identify where
the center of
the dado is, as
Figure 2: Attach the rails to the melamine
well as where
deck with screws and glue. Cover the
a full 34" dado
exposed screw holes with walnut plugs.
will fall.

length of each guide rail, then


attach the under rails to the guide
rails with glue and screws driven up
Flip-up sliding through the bottom. Clamp the
stops allow you guide rail subassemblies onto the
to register deck subassembly exactly flush to
multiple and
the edges of the notches. Measure
identical dadoes
on matching edge to edge across the guide rails
workpieces. to determine the exact length of the
Bookcases, end spacer (piece 8). Cut this piece
display shelves to length and secure it to the guide
and cabinets of
rails with countersunk screws and
all sorts are
easier to make glue. Finally, go ahead and attach
with this basic the guide rail subassembly to
shop jig. the deck subassembly with
countersunk screws, but no glue.

Creating Special Seating


The router rest and the router
receiver (pieces 9 and 10) are made
from hardwood and are mounted

80 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.81 10/26/05 2:43 PM Page 81

Adding More Bells and Whistles tops and sides, forming two flip-up
Now youve come to the features sliding stops. Glue up the third side
that really add to this jigs versatility. and top for the end stop, which does
Star t by mounting the aluminum not flip up.
tracks (pieces 13). Cut the pieces to To hold your work in place as you
length with a hacksaw, and be sure are routing, mount a hold-down
to file or sand the ends smooth to clamp (piece 21) just to the right of
remove any sharp edges. Next cut the guide rail. We found that to get
the centering stop (piece 14) to the the proper reach and clearance
same length as the end spacer and when operating the clamp, we
the center stop return (piece 15) so needed to glue a clamp spacer
its 1/16" less than the distance (piece 22) to the front rail and add a
between the laminate liners. Glue hex head bolt and connector nut
these pieces together (as shown in (pieces 23 and 24) to the clamp, as
the Pinup Shop Drawings). After the shown in Figure 3.
glue has cured, place the stop on One quick note: This jig is
the guide rails and drill 5/16" designed to plow dadoes into 3/4"
diameter holes to align with the stock. If you need to work in 1/2" or
Keep your jig out of harms way by machining aluminum track. Next, cut the side 3/8" material, all you need to do is
matching beveled hanger cleats. One goes on stop tops and side stops (pieces 16 slide the appropriate thickness
the back of the jig, the other on the wall.
and 17) to size. Reveal the tops spacer on top of the deck. (Double-
raised tenon, which slides in the stick tape will help keep the spacer
aluminum track, in two passes on from sliding.)
into the notched openings that you your table saw. Drill the 5/16" holes
created earlier in the rails. Both of to mount the knobs and T-bolts Final Details
these pieces must be sur face- (pieces 18 and 19) and cut sections When properly marked, the
sanded or planed down to the of piano hinge (piece 20) to join the center stop can help you line up
nominal thickness of manufactured one-of f dadoes. To find your
sheet stock (about 1116"). This will registration lines, use your router to
keep your router from stepping plow a 3/4" dado in a scrap of
down as it enters sheet stock that plywood that is clamped in place.
will be clamped to the deck. Slide the center stop over the dado
On the bandsaw, shape both and use a combination square to
pieces to fit into the notched transfer the edges of the dado onto
opening and for m the rounded the stop. Find the halfway point and
rests back edge. Drill for mark it. Take the center stop to the
countersunk screws as shown on table saw and, with the blade just
the Exploded View, page 79, and barely above the tabletop, scribe the
mount them to the jig with screws three lines into the face of the
only. On your table saw, slice the center stop. Once you clean up the
laminate liners (pieces 11) from ker fs, you can paint them
high-pressure plastic laminate. contrasting colors.
Then, using contact cement, glue Now would be a good time to
the liners to the inside faces of mount the hanger cleats (pieces 25)
the guide rail subassembly. Use a to the back of the jig and on a
file to smooth the edges of the convenient spot on your shops
plastic laminate. wall. Apply a couple of coats of
Slice the deck trim (pieces 12) an oil finish to it to keep the dust
from a piece of hardwood, cut two Figure 3: The hold-down clamp is mounted on a
from sticking.
pieces to length and glue them to spacer block and modified with a 1"-long hex
both ends of the deck. head bolt and a connector nut.

Winter 2006 81
SIP_WP2.82 10/21/05 11:56 AM Page 82

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82 Workshop Projects
SIP_WP2.83 10/28/05 3:36 PM Page 83

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