Guía de Escalada El Chorro

Estacin
Antequera
Campillos Gorge
Teba
Desplomlandia
Valle de Abdalagis Villanueva
El Chorro
Ardales
Carratraca
lora
Pizarra
MALAGA
Crtama
Coin
Alhaurin
Lake
reservoir Las Baneras El Makinodromo
Railway side
Direction P
Sector Escenario
Teba
Los Bloques
El Invento
Las Baneras
Sector Brasil
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin
Mustapha
A area with a lot of caves.
Los Venenos
El Recodo Amptrax Area
Pasarela de Poema de Roca
Los Venenos Albercones Placas del Olimpo
Santimonia Escalera Arabe
Verdonia
Direction
Ardales Las Encantadas
Juaja Africa P Bedees
Cerro Cristo El Corral
Refugio
P Refugio
Estacin
Hotel
Antequera
Teba
Valle de Abdalagis Villanueva
Ardales
Carratraca
lora
Pizarra
MALAGA
Crtama
Coin
Alhaurin
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
1.Albercones South, southeast
5 - 20 m.
A couple up to 60 m.
1 Jenny 5
2 Estrella 4+ The wall of "Frontales Bajas" continues
3 ? (top rope) 4+
4 ? (top rope) 4+ 34
5 ? (top rope) 4+
6 Little brown baby 7a
7 Simn ha perdido el panadero 6c+
8 Luna 6c
9 Instinto 6a 35 36
33
10 Big fun 6a+ 32
11 Montn de chatarra 6a
12 Vas pisando huevos 4 2. Amptrax
13 La corona 4+ 31
14 Punto de salida 5 18 30
29
15 La Chivito ( neads gear ) 3,4,3 28
16 Trepadero de Acceso 5 27
17 Sapillo Momificato 7b+ 19
18 Saque la Lengua 6b+ 17
19 Cosa de Dos 6c 15
20 Troncomovil 6a 16 20 21
10 24 25 26
22 23
11
Gravelled road from El Chorro

8 13 14 30 Babi 6a
6 7 31 Puitferio 5+,5 Los Venenos
1 2 9,10 11,12 Amptrax Area
3 4 5 32 Er Vuelo de los Peluos 6a+ Poema de Roca
21 Ganimedes 6b+ 33 El Virgo de Vencenteta 6b+ Albercones
22 Engrase la Bisgara 6c+ 27 Ocano gris 7a 34 Cita en Sevilla 7a+
23 Estas Porido Chaval 7c+ 28 Zul Exprs 6a+ 35 El Truco del Almendruco 7a
24 ? 8a 29 Chica pelirroja 6a 36 Sufre Mamn 7a+
25 Chicelito Querido 6b+
26 Arzapua 7b How to find the crag: P
Drive or walk to the bar by the Raileway station in El Chorro.
Lake
reservoir
Los Venenos
Continue through the village and locate the small road that turns off to
the left. The road pass a camping area (on your left ). Finally you arrive to a
Las Baneras El Makinodromo
Railway side
P
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Las Baneras
Sector Brasil Albercones
Petit
Desfiladero
El Polvorin
Los Cotos
Acuario
open place where you have to park the car if you have one. The crag is located
on the other side of the railway. The tunnel to the left is the access to a lot of
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Verdonia
other crags as Santimonia, Los Venenos but also crags as far away as El
Direction
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
Makinodromo. The right tunnel ( which leads back to El Chorro ) is narrow and
has no pedestrain access.
Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
2. Amptrax
South, southeast
5 - 30 m.
four routes up to 150 m.
8
7
1
2
1 Amptrax ( neads gear ) 3,4,5,5,5,4,4 3

2 Las Cabras ( neads gear ) 5,4,4+ 4 5 6
10 13
3 Coo Paco 7a 11
12
4 Sexo, drogas y flamenco 7a+
5 Alica 7b+
6 Bienvenido al circo 7b Short routes
7 Qu leche que tengo 6c,7b
8 Judea del frente popular 7b+
9 Frente popular de Judea 6a+,6c+,6b,6a Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
10 No est acabada 6b+
11 Soador de grado 4 Poema de Roca
Albercones
12 Aquistoy yo 5
13 ? 6a+,6a,6a
Next to route number 12 follows seven short routes.

How to find the crag: P
Drive or walk to the bar by the Raileway station in El Chorro.
Continue through the village and locate the small road that turns off to
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
Los Bloques
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
the left. The road pass a camping area (on your left ). Finally you arrive to a
open place where you have to park the car if you have one. The crag is located
El Invento
Las Baneras
Petit
Desfiladero
on the other side of the railway. Take the track that leads up the hill over the
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
tunnel to the right. The tunnel to the left is the access to a lot of other crags as
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
Santimonia, Los Venenos but also crags as far away as El Makinodromo. The
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
right tunnel ( which leads back to El Chorro ) is narrow and has no pedestrain
access. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
3.1. Poema de Roca Take me to 3.2 7 Verdes Venonas 6c,7a+
8 Hierbes Letales 6c,7b
South, southeast 9 Maquina Cualquiera 7b+,6c+,7a+,7b+,7a+,6a+
10 - 30 m. 15 Poema de Roca 7a,7c+,7b,7c,7a,6c
A few up to 200 m. 22 ? 6b,7a
31 Mario Jacinto 6b+
32 ? 7a
33 ? 7c
34 ? 7a
35 ? 5+
36 ? 6a,6a,6a
37 Caf cous bourbon 5+,6c,7a,6c+
38 Gaia 6c,7a+,6b+
39 Insomnia de equipamiento 6c+
40 Seco y Pedro 6b,6c,7a
41 ? 6a,6c+,7a
42 Black cave 7b
How to find the crag:
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue

and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow
the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a
small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow
that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and
you will come to the same road. Follow this road, first in a
quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the
other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see
Poema de Roca. Ignore the first little road to the left and
take the next one down to an open place, park here. Walk
towards the crag on one of many tracks that al leads to it.
8
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
Albercones Placas del Olimpo
9
42 15
36 P
31 35 38 39 22
32 33 34 37 41
40
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
7,8
Los Bloques
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Las Baneras
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Amptrax
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra

3.2. Poema de Roca Take me to 3.1
The cave
South, southeast
10 - 30 m.
A few up to 200 m.
1 Caf Burbuscon 5+,6c,7a,6c+

2 Gaia 6c,7a+,6b+ 15
3 Insominio de Equipamiento 6c+
4 Seco y Pedro 6b,6c,7a+ 8
5? 6a,6c+,7a+
6? 7b
7 Verdes Venonas 6c,7a+
8 Hierbes Letales 6c,7b
9 Maquina Cualquiera 7b+,6c+,7a+,7b+,7a+,6a+
10
10 Lavia Stragniato 7b+ 11 12 13
11 Eye of the storm 7b+ 9 14, 30
12 Thunder struck 8a 15 16 25
17 18 19 26
13 Swimming trough a shark attack 8a 20 21 28 29
23 27
14 Poema de roca first pitch 7a 6 7,8 22 24
15 Poema de roca 7a,7c+,7b,7c,7a,6c 5
16 Rima libre 8a
17 Viejo traidor 7b+
18 Morritos Jeagger 7b
19 Viejo Amigo 7a 2 34
20 Garca Aguas 6b
21 Suizo 5+ 1
22 Vivacporus 7b
23 El seor de las tinieblas 6b,7a Los Venenos
24 Block 6c Amptrax Area
25 Solarium 7b Amptrax
Poema de Roca
26 Lobo Lobez 7b Albercones Placas del Olimpo
27 Deprish y con Bulla 6c
28 Agip 6a+
29 Nanuz 6a+
30 A Pique de un Repique 6c
P

Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In the
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be
strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find
Los Bloques
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Las Baneras
Petit
Desfiladero
El Polvorin
Los Cotos
Zeppelin
Acuario
Mustapha P
a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow this road,
first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore the first little road to
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
the left and take the next one down to an open place, park here. Walk towards the
crag on one of many tracks that al leads to it. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
4. Placas del Olimpo
West
20 to 60 m.
1 Los Aristogatos 4,6c

2 Los Aristogatos variant 4,6c
3 Hijos de la Luna 5
4 Diploducus Acino 6a+ 10 6
5 Yerma 7a 9 11
7
6 Vuelo Migratorio 5+,4
7 Vuelo Migratorio variant 5,5+
8 Muon Free 7a+
9? 6c
10 Troglodita Feroz 6b
11 Bye bye happiday 6a
12 Gran Fisura 5 2 13 14
13 Trango 8b 12
14 Kukenham Tepoy 7c 8
15 Escalon de Hillary 6a+,6a+
15
All routes except number 13 and 14 neads 6,
gear. 457
1,2 3
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
Placas del Olimpo
Escalera Arabe
Las Encantadas
P
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass
the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road.
Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road
Lake
Los Venenos
turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct
up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow this
Railway side
P
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Las Baneras
road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin
P
the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema
Mustapha
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
de Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and park
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
in a right bend where the road are near the crag ( you have just
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
passed the valley ). Walk the steep track up to the crag.

5.1. Escalera Arabe Take me to 5.2. How to find the crag:
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel.
South In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just where the road
30 m. starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow
that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the
same road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction
towards the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de
Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and pass a right bend
where the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ). Continue
a couple of hundred metres and park on a lay-bay on your left. A pinnacle can
be seen, this is by the crag. A couple of hundreds metres hard walk up to the
crag rewards with a beautiful scenery and nice climbing.
1
2 3 4 5 6
7 8 1
El Pilar 9
see separate TOPOS 10 1112
1 The final after 7b

2 El beso de la flaca 5+ 13
3 Lucky no come Pan 6a 14 Birdy 7b+ 14 15
16 18 19 21
4 Filou 6a 15 Calvo potrn 7c 17 20
5 Blanca 6a 16 Coming on strong 7a+
6 Engendro caneki 6b+,6c 17 Rock the kasbah 7b
7 El amor Sandunguero 6c 18 Slo afeitar 6a
8 Enscalopendra guajani 6a,6a+ 19 La Raya a la izquierda 5
9 El rabe perdido 6c+ 20 For fite 6b
10 Lococolo 7a 21 Double edged 6c
11 Diedre torpedo 6c 22 El Navigator 6c,6a,6c Poema de Roca
12Arabesque 7a 4,7a Placas del Olimpo
13 Sheik tu dinero 7a 23 Los gemelos 6c Escalera Arabe
24 Longarone 6b+
25 ? 6c
Las Encantadas
P
23
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Las Baneras
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
22
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
23,24 25
Alra

5.2. Escalera Arabe Take me to 5.1.
South
30 m.
20 For fite 6b
21 Double edged 6c
22 La chillona 4,6a,6a
23 O sole mio 5+
24 Los timbales 5
25 El artista 4
26 Dos tetas tiran 6b+
27 Ms que una carreta 6a
28 Highway to Africa 5+,6b
29 Mali en Suzuki 6a+, 6c
30 Kiwi 5
31 La gaita 4+
31
30 Poema de Roca
22 23 26 27 28 29 Placas del Olimpo
20 21 24 25 Escalera Arabe

Las Encantadas
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. P
In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just where the road
starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow
that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
same road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction
towards the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero

El Polvorin
Los Cotos
Zeppelin
Acuario
Mustapha P
Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and pass a right bend
where the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ). Continue
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
a couple of hundred metres and park on a lay-bay on your left. A pinnacle can
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
be seen, this is by the crag. A couple of hundreds metres hard walk up to the
crag rewards with a beautiful scenery and nice climbing. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
6. Las Encantadas
South
30 m.
25
21 24
22
20 32
23
30 31,
1 26 27 28 32
2 29
3 4 5 7
6 8
1 Bolondro 6a+
2 Nobro Propio 6a 18
3 Bohem Destrell 6a+ 9
16 17 19
4 Poum Poum Ram Ram 6a 15
5 Para Que Disfrute la Canalla 6b 10
6 Crisis de Intentidad 6a+
7 Atenea 4 11 12 13 14
8 Geisha 6a 23 Espoloa Nombrada 7a+
9 Program Genocida 6c 24 Un Poco Vicioso 7a+
10 Maon Tropo 7b 25 Mezcia Explosiva 8a
11 Las Mulas Comen Muchas Cuerdas 8a+ 26 Kit Grimpe 7b+
12 Un Lait Fraiche pour Monsieur 7b 27 Gros Rouge 7b Poema de Roca
13 Generacin Lmite 7b+ 28 ? 7a
14 Mam Endika 8a+ 29 Sara 7a+ Placas del Olimpo
15 Bueno, Bonito y Barato 6c+ 30 ? 7b Escalera Arabe
16 Chorro Mundo 7a+ 31 Dura Vida la de un Frekee 6c+
17 La ley del Cateto 6c+ 32 Fiebra de Sur 7a
18 Mataillos Lugareos 6c Las Encantadas
19 Artemisa 5+ P Bedees
20 Tipo Indio 7b+ How to find the crag:
21 No me Miras Mal 8a
22 No Puedo Controlarme 6c+ Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and
pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the
step road. After a couple of sharp bends the road becomes "strait". After about
200 meters you will find a closed bar on your right. Park there and walk up to the
crag. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the
same road.
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Las Baneras
Petit
Desfiladero
El Polvorin
Los Cotos These crags, Las Encantades, El corral and Bedees, superb crags, is unfortunately
sometimes closed, so you better ask some locals of the situation before you
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Santimonia
climb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe lower-off.

Escalera Arabe
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
If you stay at Finca la Campana, walk up between the refugio and the house to
the crag.
7 and 8. Bedees and El Corral
South, southeast
30 m.
No stars since the crag has been closed for long.
Bedees (Not on TOPO)

17 18 19
1 Preparete en los Bodgegas 6c 16
2 Bedees 6b+
3 Einfach zu Einfach 6b 13
10 11
El Corral 78 9 12
1 Arnold 7a+ 4 5 6 13,
2 El Corral 5+ 15
14
3 Mano Incorrecto 6c 3
4 La Cantante calve 7c 2
5 Super mano 7b+
6 Los Muyayos 6c+
7 Doble cero 7a 1
8 Lengua de Fuego 7a+
9 Avecrem a mano 6b
10 Ceregumils kid 7b
11 Pata Negra 8a Poema de Roca
12 Monodedo de mono 8b Placas del Olimpo
13 Un da de Playa 7c+ Escalera Arabe
14 Capitian Carverncola 7c+
15 Resbaizimo 7b
16 Ritz 6a+ Las Encantadas
17 Tumbado 6c+ P Bedees
18 El Jouen Roman 6b
19 La Chata Rosa 7b How to find the crag: El Corral
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and
pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the
step road. After a couple of sharp bends the road becomes "strait". After about
200 meters you will find a closed bar on your right. Park there and walk up to the
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
crag. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the
same road.
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero
These crags, Las Encantades, El corral and Bedees, superb crags, is unfortunately
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
sometimes closed, so you better ask some locals of the situation before you
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
climb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe lower-off.

Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
If you stay at Finca la Campana, walk up between the refugio and the house to
the crag. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
9. Caliza
North
15 m.
1
2 3 4 8 9 10 11 12 14
5 13
6
7
1 Caliza 6b+
2 Parecia 6b
3 Aranpicare con Adan 6b
4 La Abujeritos 6a
5 No ms t 6a+
6 Harte un t 5+
7 Santi ana 5
8? 6b+
9? ?
10 Medio Dia 6a
11 Nocturna 6a+ P
12 Diurana 6a+
13 ? ?
14 ? 7b+
Route number 11 neads gear.

Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques

Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Alra
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
From El Chorro, drive or walk on the road over the bridge by the dam..
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
Turn right and continue about 300 meters and Calzia is located just
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
by the road on your left.

10. Los Venenos and
Pasarela de Los Venenos
South, southeast
15 - 40 m.
Some up to 110 m.
1 Diedro de Hercules 6b+,6b 13

2 Luz Verde 7b 15
3La Cupla la Tiene el Bar de Isabel 7a
4 Fruto prohibito 8b
5? 6c+ 19
6 Aixamatinae 7c+
7 Jaque el Rey 7c+ 17 18
8 Les Cutres 6b+ 14 15 21
9 Pedorro y Macaco 7c+ 20
16
Walkway to
Santimonia
6 7 8 9 10 11 12
13
2 5
3 4
1
10 Demcratas Cristianos 7a+ 17 Victima de la Evidence 6a
11 No seas pesada nena 6c+ 18 Empotrador Atmico 5+ Los Venenos
12 Camino shuffle 7b 19 Zapatilla Jebe 7a
13 El techito del pirata 6a,5,5+,5+,5+ 20 Excedente de cupo 6a,6a+,6b,5 Pasarela de
14 La Ampola 5,6a,6a,6a,5+ 21 Venecia celeste 5+,5+,5+,4 Los Venenos
15 Octopus dey 6c,6a,6c Santimonia
16 Avin Rockero 5+,6a,6a
Juaja Africa
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
How to find the crag: Cerro Cristo
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin
Mustapha P
through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
it is a fast way to the other areas and when you aint in the tunnels the scenery
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazing

Alra
concrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access.
11 . Santimonia
South
60 m.
One is a multi pitch from
the ground.
1 Ventana en el Tropico 7a+ Los Venenos

2 Camino sin Ander 4,6a,6a+,4
3 Sendero Luminoso 5+/a2,6a, Pasarela de
3,6b,6c+,5,5 Los Venenos
4 Polva de Angel 8b+ Santimonia
5 Hartelo 7b
6 Sangre Latina 6c 1
7 La Tregua del pedal 7c+ Africa
8 Santimonia 6c+,6a,6b Juaja
6 Cerro Cristo
To Africa
2
3
9 Desos de Domino 7a+ 4
10 Jabega 7b+
11 Moco de Hierro 6c
12 Lobo de Mar 7a+ 5,6 7
13 Er-Mouriadine 6c 9 10 How to find the crag:
14 Chupa la gamba 6b,6b 8
3 11 From the parking at Albercones ( see
crag number 1 ), walk by the railway
through the tunnels (look out for train!
) to this area. The track ain't pleasant
To Pasarela de but it is a fast way to the other areas
Los venenos and when you aint in the tunnels the
scenery sometimes are extraordinarily.
12 The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a
amazing concrete path where you
13 sometimes could need a rope for safe
14 access.
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos,
take left and follow the concrete
walkway around the corner. Just
before the Pipe bridge there is a big
gap in the walkway so take care.
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra

12. Cerro Cristo
South, southeast
Up to 160 m.
2 3 4 5 6 7
1
1 Heavy gravity 6c+

2 Bring your friends 6a+
3 Pos Comeme el Cipote Maricona 6c+
4 I'm still thinking 6c+,7a
5 Teta, Coo, Culo 6c+,8a,5+
6 Aparacamiento Indebido 5+,6a,6b,6c
7 Rayito de Luna 4,5+,6a,6a,6a,6b+
8 Thaillelandia 7c+
El Recodo
Route number 1,2,3,6 and 7 neads gear.
Santimonia
Verdonia
How to find the crag: Juaja Africa

From El Chorro. Drive or walk down the "main" road, pass Cerro Cristo
Lake
reservoir
Los Venenos
the bridge over the dam and take right. You will pass Sector
Caliza and a bar, both on your left. Continue until the road
Railway side
P
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero
El Polvorin
Los Cotos
Acuario
turns left and you are about to miss the view over the lake.
You will find a car park on the right side of the road. Walk
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Verdonia
back and down to the water ( often just sand and stone ). Find
Direction
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
some dry way to cross over to the crag.

This crag ain't really worth visiting.
13. Africa How to find the crag:
3 From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number

North, northeast 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look
Multi pitch up to 150 m. out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant
but it is a fast way to the other areas and when
you aint in the tunnels the scenery sometimes
are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del
Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where you
sometimes could need a rope for safe access.
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and
follow the concrete walkway around the corner.
Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in
the walkway so take care.
4 Cross the bridge and on your left is Africa.
Approach by crawling along a tunnel that is
3 marked on the TOPO for Sector Juaja. Abseil 52
meter to the ledge over the water and traverse
leftwards.
Use the same tunnel to get back.
Tunnel
1 Material Belico 4,5,5,6a from Juaja.
2 Africa 6a+,6b+,5,6b
3 La bella y la bestia 6a+,7a+,7a,7a
4 Chiripitiglauticos 5+,6a,5+,6b+
5 La Dame del viento 6b+,6b,6c,6c+
6 Cuando se lo diga a mis amigos 6b+,6b,6c+,6b+
All routes neads gear for descent, rote number 3 and 5

are fully boulted.
5
El Recodo
Santimonia
Verdonia
2 3
Juaja Africa
Cerro Cristo
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
El Invento
Poema de Roca
4
Las Baneras
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin
1
Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
5,6
2,3
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra

14. Juaja 1 Enimigo Pblico 7b+
2 Juaja 7a+
Northwest 3 E por Doquier 8a+
25 m. 4 Granainos '85 6b
9 5 Atltica y Llorica 7b
6? 7c
7? 7b+
8 Cangreo 8c
9 Monsters forever 8b+
10 Verbene de Lapiz 7c+
8,9 11 Una Espaola nunca mea sola 7b+
10
7
6 Route number 4 neads gear.
5
4
11
3
1 2
To
El Recodo
El Recodo
Access to
Africa
How to find the crag: Verdonia
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway Africa
through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant Juaja
but it is a fast way to the other areas and when you aint in the tunnels the
scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a Cerro Cristo
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
Los Bloques
El Invento
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
amazing concrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe
access.
Las Baneras
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
around the corner. Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkway
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
so take care.
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
Cross the bridge and you will find these crag.

The tunnel is the access to Africa. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
15. El Recodo
North
30 m.
See "How to find the crag" for route 1,2 and 11

3. 12
1 Moloko plus 6c+ 13

2 Verdonia 6c+
3 Enano Pagano 6c+
4 Pixci 6b+ 10 17 18
5 Dixci 6c+ 4 5 8 9 16
6 7
6 La Canastera 7b+
7 Tipo Sueca 6c+ 14 15
8 Calgula 6c,7b+
9 El Campista 7b+
10 Musas Inquientantes 8a 29
11 Iriquieza 7b+,7c+ 27
12 Hari-Kiri 8c+ 24 25 26
23
13 Bon voyage 6c,6b+ 20
21 22
19
14 Rasta de posta 6b+ 28
15 Come Unas 6a+
16 Bob Marley 7b+
17 Los Capitalistas 7c+ Acuario
18 Rovicunda 6b Zeppelin
19 Todos pretenden saber 6c+
20 Los Gozas y las Sombras 6c+,7a
21 King Kong 6b+ Mustapha
22 Indio Jumeli 6c
23 Recodo 6a+
24 Six Vicious 6b+ El Recodo
25 Tumisimo 7b+
26 Sietebe del Plumero 7a+
27 Miss Dedos 6c+
28 Lluvias Otoales 5+ How to find the crag:
Verdonia
29 Maestro Golpeador 6b From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway
through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant
but it is a fast way to the other areas and when you aint in the tunnels the Juaja Africa
scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a
amazing concrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access.
Direction
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway
around the corner. Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkway
Sector Escenario
Teba
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
so take care.
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin
Cross the bridge and follow the walkway, pass Juaja, in to a cleft and continue,
Mustapha
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
Africa P
behind the next corner you will find most of the routes of this sector. Just before
Juaja Bedees
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
you pass the corner a track up to the left leads you to the first tree routes, in
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
the Verdonia sector, all are graded 6c+. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
16. Mustapha 17. Zeppelin 18. Acuario
Acuario
South South East Zeppelin
60 m. 10 to multi pitch of 300 m. 25 m.
Mustapha
1 Zeppelin 4,6a+,5,6c,6c+,
5,6b+,3,6b,4 Los Venenos
2 Espoln Masay 3,5+,5+,5,5+ El Recodo
6b+,3,6b,4 Pasarela de
3? 8c Los Venenos
4 Shaka Zulu 8b
5 Perspectiva Neieski 8b+
6 Lactarius Delciosus 6b+
7 La Pea se Despea 6c+
8 Acuario 6a+
9 Papalillo Pafuena 6a
10 Mustafa 6c+,7c+,5+
11 Estrella de Sur 6c+,7a
12 Diedre de Los Vencejos a1 Mustapha
13 Los Tres Techos a2 13
14 ? (no TOPO) 6b+ 12
15 Bahia Cochino (no TOPO) 7a+
Route number 1,2,8,9,12 and 13 How to find the crag:

neads gear.
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number
1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look
out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant
6 but it's a fast way to the other areas. Walk through
several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the
tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft
with a extrordinary scenery, continue and the next
time you will see the sky it's time to abseil down
from the railway bridge. Go left if you want to climb
3 11 route number 12 and 13, head right if you want to
10 climb any of the others.
Acuario
1 2 4 5
14 and 15. The first

one is 14.
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
7
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
9
Alra
8 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

19.1. Los Cotos Take me to the right part of this crag.
Sector Bajas and Medios
Southeast
35 m.
12 23 28
15 27
14
13
11
26, 28, 30
16 17 18 19 20 24 25
21 22, 27 29
23
10
9
El Makinodromo
1 8
6 7
4 5 16 Fisura de Hombre 5
3 17 Bitchitos on the wailers 4+
2 18 El Monstruo de las Galletas 5+ Los Bloques
1 Diedro y Quique 3+ 19 Mordiscos de Amor 5 El Invento
2 Ordinada Salvaje 6a+ 20 Alucinosis 4+
3 Mama quiero ser Torero 6b 21 ? 5
4 San Satanas 6a+ 22 Mitad HombreMitad Galleta e4 5c
5 San Gabriel 4+,5+ 23 Number one 4
6 La Hora del Maquis 5+ 24 Bruja Intrepida 5
7 La Placa Morrocoduda 6a 25 Numero dos 5
8 Berrinche de Chinche 6b 26 Galleta 4
9 El Yerno de Abraham 6a 27 Super Galleta 5+
10 Les Muelles de Guite 6a+,7a+ 28 Gaby 6b+
11 4 Mejilliones 20 duros 6c+ 29 Los Mandriles no comen Galletas 6a+
12 Rafael Anyaya 5 30 Madriles 7a Los Cotos
13 Camella cojo 5
14 Fisuroterapia 5 Routes written in Italics neads gear. El Polvorin
15 Fisura de los Santos 5
How to find the crag: Tunnel to El Chorro
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the
Las Baneras
Sector Brasil
Petit
Los Bloques
El Invento
Albercones
Poema de Roca
railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track
ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other areas. Walk through
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin
Mustapha P
several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
you will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and

Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
pass the Zeppelin area. After the next tunnel you will find these crag
Alra
on both sides of the entrance to the next tunnel. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
19.2. Los Cotos Take me to 19.1.
Sector Cotos Altos
Southeast 32
45 m. 30
25
1 Invernal 5+ 12 Cafe Bonk 7a+
2 Empotrador Empotrador 4+,4+ 13 Penetracin Analgssica 6c 26
3 Cebolla Oscilante 5+ 14 Si te Caes pega una voz 6c
4 Genesis 6a+ 15 Amarilla 5,5+ 27
5 Mongroni free 6a+ 16 Fanticos del tico 5,6c 34 35 36
6 Arbola 6a+ 32,
33
7 Bruner and the Bruna 6a+
8 Ley de la Selva 6b+ 15 31
18 22 28 29,
9 Embolia Cerebral 5+,5
10 The policeman stole my Walkman 5+,6b 30
11 Girilandia 7a 25,
24 26
23
El Makinodromo
21,
10 20 22
19
17,
15, 18
16 Los Bloques
14
El Invento
13
12
11 28 Chulo de Madriza 7a
8 9, 29 El Piqui 6c
7 10 30 Petamorfosis 7b
6 31 The butter finger 8a
4
5 32 Mister proper 5+,4+
3 33 El Viajero Amable 6b+
1 2 34 Adeli 6b+
23 Profanes y Blasfemos 6b+ 35 Electro Volt 6b+
24 Pisto Gilguero 6c+ 36 Exodo 6a+
17 El ventorro 5,6a 25 Que Te den por Culo 6b,5 Los Cotos
18 La Blanca 5,6b 26 El Dinamitate te Espera 6b,6c
19 Guerro del Abismo 7a 27 Yu Yu 6c El Polvorin
20 Exceso de Equipaje 6c
21 Chungo Superior 5+,6a
22 Quasimodo 7a+ Tunnel to El Chorro
Lake
reservoir Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the
railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track
P
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other areas. Walk through
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin
P
several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and
Mustapha
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
you will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and

Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
pass the Zeppelin area. After the next tunnel you will find this crag on
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
your right. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

20. El Polvorin El Makinodromo
Walk down
South
60 m.
Los Bloques
El Invento
3
4
5
2 13
6
14
1 Al Chorro con un porro 6b
2 Alerta Roja 6c Los Cotos
3 Sueo de Venus 5+,6a
4 Sueo de Venus variant 6b El Polvorin
2
5 Pilier Dorada 6c
6 Generacin Espontanea 6c
7 Revuelta en el Frenoptico 6c+ Tunnel to El Chorro
8 Habitos de un 4 5, 8
Perturbado Irremerdiable 6c 6, 9 10
11
9 La Pregiera Tonta 6c 7 12
10 games Moya 6a+ 13,14
11 Obsesion perma nente 6b+,6c How to find the crag:
15
12 Araa Mecnica 6b+ 16
13 Nirvana 5,6b+ From the parking at Albercones ( see crag
number 1 ), walk by the railway through the
14 Rono y Extraploma 5,6c tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The
15 Urbi et orbe 7a track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the
16 Los Crocodrilos 7a+ other areas. Walk through several tunnels and
17 Paco Eugene 5,4,5,6a pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up
and you will be in a narrow cleft with a
18 El Engendo 5+ extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the
19 Rebuzonos de amor 7b+ 17 Zeppelin area. Continue and pass the area of
20 Jaquima 6c Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will
18 19 20 arrive to a beautiful valley with a perfect spot
for wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. The
Route number 17 and 18 neads gear. local police often visit this place to see that no
one is camping here ( though many take down
the tents and put them up again after a couple
1 of hours). Walk down towards this place and
you will find El Polvorin.
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra

21. El Invento
Sooutheast
20 m.
16 17
15
14
12 13
11
9 10
8
7
6
5
4 El Makinodromo
3
1 2
1 Fresquito Fresquito 6c 11 Lo Tomas o lo Dejos 7b Los Bloques

2 Me empino con un Chumino 6b 12 Champamania 6c+ El Invento
3 Discordia 6b 13 La Via Shin 6b
4 Alucina por la Esquina 7b+ 14 Peripecias de Invalido 6c
5 Diedro Veneno 6a 15 Nacida para la critica 6c+
6 La leche que mamaste 7b+ 16 Hemoglobina 6b
7 Ahora que te Pillo sola 7a+ 17 Juego duro 6c
8 Sabino Royal 6c+
9 Pantomines 6b+
10 Esclavo del grado 6c+
Los Cotos
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway El Polvorin
through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant
but it's a fast way to the other areas. Walk through several tunnels and pass
sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft with
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue and Tunnel to El Chorro
pass the area of Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero

El Polvorin
Los Cotos
Zeppelin
Acuario
Mustapha P
valley with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. The local
police often visit this place to see that no one is camping here ( though many
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
take down the tents and put them up again after a couple of hours). Take right
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
and leave the railway towards the crag up to your left on one of many tracks
that all leads to the crag. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
22. Los Bloques
Southeast
15 m.
5,6
1 3
2
4 El Makinodromo
5
Los Bloques
1 Comicos y Modistas 6b+
2 Em 7a+ El Invento
3 Straw Donkey 7b
4 La Tete de Mari 8b
5 Hay un Guarillo en la Tapia 6a
6 Salto del Grato 6b
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway
through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but
it's a fast way to the other areas. Walk through several tunnels and pass sector
Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft with a Tunnel to El Chorro
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
Los Bloques
El Invento
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue and pass
the area of Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valley
Las Baneras
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. The local police
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
often visit this place to see that no one is camping here ( though many take
El Recodo
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
down the tents and put them up again after a couple of hours). Take right and
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
leave the railway towards the crag up to your left on one of many tracks that all
leads to the crag. The first boulted area is El Invento, the second is this crag. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
23. El Makinodromo
Southeast
35 m.
A judge beautiful overhang

7 13
21
23 24
22
19 20,
17 18 21
16
15
11
El Makinodromo
14
12,
13
5 6,
4 7 8 9 10 Los Bloques
3
El Invento
2 13 Rhythem method 7b
1
14 Life is sweet 6c
15 Anatema 7b
1 Samarkanda ? 16 Heat exchange 7a
2 Randi ? 17 Canto pecato 7a+
3 Al-Hakan 8b+ 18 One Bastiamba 7b
4 Lourdes 8a 19 Post Festum 7b
5 Cous-cous 8c 20 Mega flash 7a+
6 Atlas Shrieked 7c+,7c+ 21 Grimal el Curtido 7a
7 Smashing Pumpkins 7c+,7b+ 22 Punk Street 7a
8? 7c+ 23 Hol 7b+ Los Cotos
9 Mutemroy 8a 24 Howling madness 7a+
10 Vette al Infierno 7b El Polvorin
11 Salida de Emergencia 6c
12 Mystic Rhythem 6b+ From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look
out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other areas. Walk through
several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft Tunnel to El Chorro
with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue and pass the area of Los
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
Los Bloques
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valley with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden
) camping by the river. The local police often visit this place to see that no one is camping here (
El Invento
Las Baneras
Petit
Desfiladero
though many take down the tents and put them up again after a couple of hours). Take right and leave
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
the railway towards the crag up to your left on one of many tracks that all leads to the crag. El
Verdonia
Direction
Makinodromo is a very beautiful crag with the well knowed route Lourdes (8a). It's a long walk to come
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
here, but the climbing and the scenery tends to make this crag to one of the best memories for a cold
day at work back home. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
24.1. Las Baneras Take me to 24.2.
Walkway side.
North
30 m.
1 2
15
3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 14
13
1 Ojos Saltones 7b
2 Hercules Poirot 8b
3 El Robo del siglo 6b
4 El Perito Caliente 6a+
5 Al Verdn con un meln 6a+
6 Vulture culture 6b
7 Sin columpiarse 7a+
8 Perro violador 6b+
9 Algo sobre la virgen 6b 16 17 19 20
18 21
10 A Golpe de mazo 7b+
11 Replicanto y con el Mazo dando 7c+
12 Walkway Waltz 6b+
13 ? 7a
14 Hijo puta el que quite La Chapa 6a How to find the crag:
15 Menbrillo 5
16 ? 6a+ Las Baneras The sector "Upper Gorge" could be
17 Moco 6b Railway side reached from El Chorro, by foot, through
P the tunnels, but the walk takes
18 El ultimo Blues 6c Sector Escenario approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro
19 Saga Corniz 6c+ is a place where you easy get in contact
20 Mola ms que America 6a+ with other climbers, and if you don't
21 Tubular bells 6c+ have a car then try to get lift.
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge
and take right. After a tour in a fantastic
Las Baneras surrealistic landscape you will come to
a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.
Sector Brasil Continue until just before a bar, a narrow
road turns to the right, follow that. Park
Lake
reservoir
Los Venenos
where you are not alowed to drive
further and walk down to Upper Gorge
Railway side
P
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero
El Polvorin
Los Cotos
and the concrete walkway.
Zeppelin
El Recodo
Acuario
Mustapha
Pasarela de
Los Venenos
Albercones
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
P
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Venenos Placas del Olimpo
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra

24.2. Las Baneras Take me to 24.1. The railway side
South and north

30 m.
A couple up to 60-200 m.
23
5 6 7
12 13 14 15
9
4 8
1 2 10
3 11 17
Route 3 on TOPO 24.1.

22 24 25 26 27 28 16 18 19
9 Tema libre 7c+

10 la Topo buana 6b+,6b
To the railway side 11 Vientos modernos 6c,6c+
12-15 ? ?
16 ? 7a+
22 Vendavalas de Antigedades 3,6b+,8a,7a,7a 5 Lavadero Flipin 6c 17 Giganta verde a0,7b+,8a,7b,7c+,8a,7a+,6c
23 ? 3,6b+,?,? 6 Especie de nada 7b 18 Onda vital 8c
24 Aspromanix 5+ 7 T.V. Plus 6c+ 19 No acabada 8c+
25 Color dominante 7a+ 8 La tortas del grado 6a,7a+
26 Morocioputa 6c+ How to find the crag:
27 Imperio de sentidos 6c
28 Pinchito moruno 6c Las Baneras The sector "Upper Gorge" could be
Railway side reached from El Chorro, by foot, through
P the tunnels, but the walk takes
Railway side. Sector Escenario
approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro
1 La Yacuzi 6b+ is a place where you easy get in contact
2 Les Estrellas nom Encaloman with other climbers, and if you don't
por los veredas 6a+ have a car then try to get lift.
3 Pate de Peil 6c+ Drive from El Chorro over the bridge
4 Era virgen y tena holgura 7a+ Las Baneras
surrealistic landscape you will come to
Sector Brasil a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.
Continue until just before a bar, a narrow
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
Los Bloques
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero

Los Cotos
El Polvorin

Zeppelin
El Recodo
Acuario
Mustapha
Pasarela de
Los Venenos
Albercones
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
P
Petit
Desfiladero
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra

25 and 26. Escenario and Brasil
South and north
25 m.
A couple up to 50 m.
7
6
5
8 9 10
3 4
1 2
1 Escenario de bufones 6a+,7a

2 Avecrem a mano 5,5,6a+
3 Instinto cabrero 7b+
4 Instinto asesino 7a+
5 Izquierdo camino 5+
6 Joyous medio 5 How to find the crag:
7 El pudor de un Sola dios 5
8 Pachanga 7b The sector "Upper Gorge" could be
9 Maverick 7a Las Baneras reached from El Chorro, by foot, through
Railway side the tunnels, but the walk takes
10 ? 6c+ P approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro
Sector Escenario is a place where you easy get in contact
with other climbers, and if you don't
have a car then try to get lift.
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge
surrealistic landscape you will come to
Las Baneras a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.
Sector Brasil road turns to the right, follow that. Park
Lake
Los Venenos
Railway side
P
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin

Zeppelin
El Recodo
Acuario
Mustapha
Pasarela de
Los Venenos
Albercones
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
P
Petit
Desfiladero
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra

27. Petit Desfiladero The railway side.
South and north To El Invento

45 m.
13
12 14
15
Abseil 16
30 m.
1 2 3 11
17 18
Abseil 11 Ruta de la Lycra 6c

20 m. 12 La higuerola 7b
7 13 Escuela sin grado 7c+
6
4 5 8 9 14 paseo por el Limbo 7a
10
15 Latex lubricated 6c+
16 ? ?
17 Charro del Charro 6c,6c+
18 Cantos Nibelungos 7b
1 Robert Curtino 7a
2? ?
3? ? The sector "Upper Gorge" could be
4 El ltimo mangante 6b reached from El Chorro, by foot, through
5 Empacho de gobacho 7a+ the tunnels, but the walk takes
approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro
6 T Vegas 7c is a place where you easy get in contact
7 Tito Camarn 6a+ Las Baneras with other climbers, and if you don't
8 Les batiste 6c Railway side have a car then try to get lift.
P Drive from El Chorro over the bridge
9 Les papanates 7b Sector Escenario
10 Torturas Ninjas 5 surrealistic landscape you will come to
a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.
Las Baneras further and walk down to Upper Gorge
and the concrete walkway. The bridge
Sector Brasil and the track that follows leads to El
Invento and back to El Chorro.
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin

Zeppelin
El Recodo
Acuario
Mustapha
Pasarela de
Los Venenos
Albercones
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
P
Petit
Desfiladero
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra

28.1. Outlying area, Desplomlandia
Northwest
30 m. How to find the crag:
To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead a car. To get
to Desplomlandia:
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic Campillos Gorge
landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue to the next T-
junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the bar where you take right if you are Teba
heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and continue. The landscape here is different
from El Chorro, you have a big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia
turns up on your right hand just under a mast.
To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you take
left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction of Teba. Desplomlandia
Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side you will see a farm
to the left. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed where you find the crag.
El Chorro
Click here to
get to the crag Ardales
Suizo
Click here to
get to the crag
Metecaa Click here to
get to the crag Click here to
Tringulo get to the crag
El cable Como
la vida misma
Click here to
get to the crag
Poza de la Mona
Click here to
get to the crag
Buena sombra
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Albercones
Direction
Sector Brasil
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Gravelled El Chorro
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
P
road to the
Juaja Africa Bedees
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
lake.
Northwest
30 m.
Take me to the Desplomlandia map
28 34
27 33
18 20 21
17 19 22
23 28, 32 35
16 24 25 26 29 30
31
Tringulo El Cable. Como la Vida Misma 36
Buena sombra
37
8 38
39 41
40
11
14
1 2 7 9 10
3 4 5 12 13 14,15
6
1 Tringulo 7a+ 12 Qu tal mea tu padre? 7b 23 El ngel flamenco 7a 34 ? ?

2 Maligno catarro 6c+ 13 Ms que money 7b+ 24 Mamabi 6c+ 35 El chupacabras 7a+
3 Aljamar 7b 14 De copas 7b 25 Manzanilla madness 7a 36 Chica 5+
4? 7b+ 15 La copa 7b 26 Cheyenne 7a+ 37 ? 7b+
5 Reina mora 7c 16 Puto cable 5+ 27 Mquina pestosa 7b+ 38 Lirn careto 7a,7c
6? ? 17 La flaca 6c+ 28 ? ? 39 Escombro 5+
7 Mar de ortigas 8a 18 La decepcin 7a+ 29 Al andal 6c 40 Autn 5+
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
8 No toques a tu madre 8a+ 19 Uretrfilo 7a 30 Sandokan 7c 41 Los Zauden 7a

Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
9 Madre salvaje 7c 20 Akira 7b 31 Si te gusta el pique, pique 6b+

Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
10 Oasis de cristal 7c 21 Oleanna 7b+ 32 capitn sardina 6c

P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
11 Conexin pelijorra 8a 22 Mamabi 6c,7b 33 Calidad alemana 6b

Northwest
30 m.
Take me to the Desplomlandia map. Metecaa
Poza de la mona
12 13
7
8 9 10 11 14
1 6 15 16
2 3 4 17 18 19
20 21
1? 6b+ 14 Huevos cocidos 7a

2 Sbete a la higuera 6a+ 15 ? ?
3 Poda higuera 6b+ 16 ? ?
4 Abrasiva 6c 17 ? ?
5 Malva loca 6c+ 18 La calabaza 7c
6 Fletn negro 7a+ 19 Joy 7b
7 Bee-bee 6c+ 20 T verde 7b
8? ? 21 miel de romero 7a+
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
Los Bloques
El Invento
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Albercones
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
9 Pia disfruta 7b
10 Silicona beach 7b+
Sector Brasil
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
11 Excremento 7a
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
12 Iracunda 7c+
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
13 prosineski 7c
28.4. Outlying area, Desplomlandia, Suizo 1 Las hermanas izuquierdo 7c
2 El carnicero de Milwaukee 8a
Northwest 3 El asegurador de Huelva 7c+
30 m. 4 Indurin A2
5 Viuda negra 6c
Take me to the Desplomlandia map. 6 El Fhrer 7b
7 O.J. Simpson 6c+
8? ?
9? ?
10 ? ?
11 ? ?
12 Atrpalo 6a
13 El retorno del dinamita 7b
12
13
10
11
8 9
1
2
3
4
5
Lake
reservoir Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
6
7
P
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
29.1. Outlying area, Campillos Gorge Take me to the East side / the cave
West
40 m.
10
12
11
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9,10,11,12 13 14
1 Yo Quierosa Papa 6b
2 Below Tijo lands 7b
3 Pegaso 6c+
4 El Mono sin nombre 6b+
5 Ya son muchas pechas 6c
6 Mujer sin nombre 6b+
7? 6c Campillos Gorge
8 Nostalgia de Antono 6b+
9 El grado viene despue 5 Teba
10 Elo 7b
11 ? 7a+
12 ? 7a
13 ? ? How to find the crag: Desplomlandia
14 Rodolfa y su cochine 6a,6a+
To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead
a car. To get to Desplomlandia:
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic El Chorro
surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.
Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the bar
where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar
and continue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro, you have a big Ardales
Direction
Teba
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
Los Bloques
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
Amptrax Area
lake on your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia turns up on your
right hand just under a mast.
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
Petit
Desfiladero
To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin

Mustapha P
junction you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
in the direction of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge,
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
on the other side you will see a farm to the left. Park, cross the road and walk
down to the riverbed where you find the crag. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden
29.2. Outlying area, Campillos Gorge Take me to the West side
East Entrance, abseil
50 m.
Big cave
on sepatate
TOPO
2 12
9
4 5 8
14
3
19 20 21
18
17 22
23
15 16 24 25
1 2,3,4,5 6 7 10 11,12 13
1? 8a 20 Violento express 7c
2? 4,4 21 Karo Shi 7c
3? 7b 22 Arende notivo rea 7b+
4 Amarreto de Canto 7a 23 Posey-don 7b+
5? ? 24 Historia de una chica mala 8a
6 Cudain 6b+ 25 Kamikaze ?
7 Gasofa 6a+
8? 6b+
9? 6b
10 Pasta de basta 5,5 Campillos Gorge
11 Introducion al tema 4 Teba
12 La Costurera 6b+
13 Gorilla 7a
14 Ritual Habitual 7a How to find the crag:
15 House of pain ? To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead
16 Lavialatua de mach ? Desplomlandia
a car. To get to Desplomlandia:
17 Nequaquam Vacuum ? Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic
18 El Guru 7a surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.
19 Putas fever 6b+ Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the bar
where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and El Chorro
continue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro, you have a big lake on
your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia turns up on your right hand
just under a mast.
Lake
reservoir
P
Las Baneras
Railway side
El Makinodromo
Los Venenos
To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T- Ardales
junction you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts
Direction
Teba
Sector Escenario
Amptrax Area
Los Bloques
Las Baneras
El Invento
Poema de Roca
in the direction of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge,
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin
P
on the other side you will see a farm to the left. Park, cross the road and walk
Mustapha
Los Venenos
Verdonia
Direction
down to the riverbed where you find the crag. The easy way to get to the cave
Refugio
P Refugio
Hotel
is to walk back over the bridge from the car park and then turn right, you will find
Sector Caliza
Direction
Alra
a hole to abseil down to the bottom of the cave. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

Guía de Escalada El Chorro

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Guía de Escalada El Chorro

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Estacin

Valle de Abdalagis Villanueva

Gravelled road from El Chorro

A area with a lot of caves.

1 Amptrax ( neads gear ) 3,4,5,5,5,4,4 3

Next to route number 12 follows seven short routes.

A area with a lot of caves.

How to find the crag:

Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue

A area with a lot of caves.

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

1 Caf Burbuscon 5+,6c,7a,6c+

How to find the crag:

1 Los Aristogatos 4,6c

passed the valley ). Walk the steep track up to the crag.

1 The final after 7b

A area with a lot of caves.

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

How to find the crag:

A area with a lot of caves.

A area with a lot of caves.

climb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe lower-off.

Bedees (Not on TOPO)

A area with a lot of caves.

climb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe lower-off.

Route number 11 neads gear.

How to find the crag:

A area with a lot of caves.

by the road on your left.

1 Diedro de Hercules 6b+,6b 13

sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazing

1 Ventana en el Tropico 7a+ Los Venenos

A area with a lot of caves.

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

1 Heavy gravity 6c+

How to find the crag: Juaja Africa

A area with a lot of caves.

some dry way to cross over to the crag.

3 From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number

All routes neads gear for descent, rote number 3 and 5

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

How to find the crag: Verdonia

A area with a lot of caves.

Cross the bridge and you will find these crag.

See "How to find the crag" for route 1,2 and 11

1 Moloko plus 6c+ 13

Route number 1,2,8,9,12 and 13 How to find the crag:

14 and 15. The first

A area with a lot of caves.

8 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

How to find the crag: Tunnel to El Chorro

you will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and

you will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and

your right. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

A area with a lot of caves.

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

1 Fresquito Fresquito 6c 11 Lo Tomas o lo Dejos 7b Los Bloques

A area with a lot of caves.

A area with a lot of caves.

A judge beautiful overhang

A area with a lot of caves.

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

South and north