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RAMBUTAN
SCIENTIFIC NAME: /Nephelium lappaceum/
FAMILY: Sapindaceae
*COMMENT - CROP POTENTIAL*
This document is not a conventional crop summary as prepared for other
established economic crops in Queensland. Rather, it is a summary of
very little evaluation and experience in northern Australia, coupled
with information from Asian centres of production. The paper poses many
unanswered questions and hopefully, will stimulate thinking by those
people attempting to grow the crop, and thus accelerate the evaluation
of its potential in what is probably a marginal climatic situation.
We in the. D.P. I. are not currently recommending planting rambutan on
other than trial basis, and this paper should not be seen as to be
encouraging widescale development. There is no doubt that some cultivars
would be well accepted in the market place and the crop could have a
future in northern Australia. However, whether or not production will
ever be economic yet remains to be proven.
*BOTANY*
Rambutan (/Nephelium lappaceum/) is indigenous to Malaysia. Clonal trees
are of medium size, from 7 to 12 metres high, but seedlings often reach
up to 25 metres.
The leaves are petioled, alternate and pinnate, with 2 to 4 pairs of
leaflets. The leaflets are short-stalked and vary considerably in shape
from elliptic to obovate. When young, leaflets are soft, light green or
yellow to red and pubescent along the veins.
*FLOWERS*
The inflorescences are both axillary and terminal, erect,
widely-branched, rusty pubescent and bear numerous greenish/white
flowers. The cultivated rambutan is usually monoecious, flowers of both
sexes, borne on the same inflorescence. However, the individual flowers
are effectively unisexual. With seedling populations, an average of 50%
of trees will develop male functional flowers and thus never bear fruit.
The balance will have predominantly female (pistillate) functional
flowers with 0.1 to 2% of male (staminate) functional flowers, or
occasionally be entirely functionally female.
The commercially-selected
(98 to 98.9% functionally
from Indonesia) producing
cultivars, - eg. Rongrien

cultivars are predominantly of the second type

female) but with the odd ones (eg. Seematjaan
100% functionally female flowers. Some
and Chompoo from Thailand, obviously have a

very low number of functionally male flower.s and chemical treatment

with S. N.A. is used to promote development of male flowers and thus
increase pollen production.
*FRUIT*
The fruit is a drupe, with only one of the two ovules developing and
ripening to various shades of red or yellow as per cultivar. Fruit range
from 30 to 80 mm in length and weigh between 20 - 60 g. The pericarp is
thick and covered with closely fitted tubercles, each terminated by a
soft pliable spine of variable length which gives the fruit its 'hairy'
appearance. Colour of spines may vary from green to yellow to red.
Beneath the pericarp and completely surrounding the seed is the aril the edible portion which is translucent white to yellow-white in colour.
The aril is usually juicy and sweet, but thickness and eating quality
vary according to the cultivar. Aril recovery varies from 30 to 58% of
total fruit weight. Seeds are soft and may be either elliptic, ovoid or
oblong, ranging from 15 to 30 mm in length. The aril may or may not
(according to cultivar) peel cleanly from the seed, with testa attached.
Unfortunately, whereas a large number of cultivars are 'freestone', in
the majority of these the testa clings to the aril and is highly
objectionable - in fact the main limitation to the popularity of the
fruit for European tastes. Cultivars with large fruit size and thick
aril are generally the preferred canning types.
The pulasan (/Nephelium mutabile/) is similar to rambutan in most
respects, but the fruit tubercles are much shorter. Generally there is
less problem with testa, but yields are not as good as with rambutan.
*SOILS AND DRAINAGE*
Rambutan appears tolerant of a range of soil types from heavy clays to
sandy loams. However, the lighter the soil, the more particular are the
requirements for satisfactory irrigation and fertilizing. High organic
matter levels are very beneficial to growth in the first 3 to 4 years
and also tend to lessen problems associated with trace element
deficiencies. Thus, mulching with bagasse, straw, peanut shells, cane
trash etc. is recommended. A pH of 5 to 6.5 appears preferable, and
liming should be avoided or minimal - at least up to the beginning of
cropping.
Rambutan is often quoted as suffering in particular from iron
deficiency, and chelated forms are recommended to be applied in solution
to the soil. However, if it is a problem, then it is most evident in
nursery stock or in young trees in the field, and high organic matter
levels and moderately low pH are usually sufficient to prevent
deficiency development.
Drainage requirements are not as critical as for most other tree crops,
but areas where water lies for some time after heavy rain should be
avoided, or the very least, mounded.
Under grass or cover crop situations, rambutan can be grown on quite
steep slopes, but in north Queensland, such sites are more difficult to
irrigate, and provision of windbreaks is even more critical. Gently
sloping sites on deep (preferably colluvial or alluvial) soils are
preferred. Alluvial soils on flat land are preferred in S.E. Asia, but
in north Queensland, some such sites may be too cold for satisfactory
production. However it is only from use of a range of sites that we will
get sufficient data to make precise recommendations.
*CLIMATIC REQUIREMENTS

Rainfall/Humidity*
Whereas in the Asian tropics rambutan is often grown at altitudes up to
650 metres, the preferred range is below 300 metres and within 15
degrees of the equator. The tree has been selected in hot wet
environments - with few months of the year having less than 100 mm of
rain and generally 2,000 to 3,000 mm per. year total precipitation. In
northern Australia irrigation is a necessity and factors such as low
humidity and cool winds obviously have a deleterious effect on growth if not on yield. We suspect rambutan has poor leaf stomatal closing
capacity because of evolution in wet climates, and leaf burn is probably
directly associated with stress caused by low humidity and constant air
movement (wind) in winter and spring. Our selection for preferred
cultivars may arise from these with relatively small leaves and more
effective stomatal closure. Some cultivars eg. R137 and Jit Lee are
obviously in this category, whereas R4 and R7 and R99 are just as
obviously easily stressed. Stress susceptibility and stomatal closure
characteristics have yet to be studied in Australia. However, since
yield in fruit quality determination are the most important factors,
those cultivars with adaptability for this environment will be selected
as a matter of course. On the other hand, understanding of the trees
physiology is important in relation to management practices - which can
be modified to improve yield.
Windbreaks are obviously essential - to reduce air flow and to create a
more humid microclimate. Rambutans grown alone in a bare exposed field
do not perform nearly as well as when interplanted with windbreak trees
such as /Leucaena leucocephala/.
Rambutan cultivars vary in reaction to cyclonic winds. Generally, trees
which lose leaves readily in strong winds suffer less damage to limbs
than do trees which retain leaves (eg. mango). Cultivars which appear to
retain leaves strongly are Chompoo, Rongrien, R9, Rapiah, R165 and
Binjai, whereas at the other end of the scale, R4, R99, R7 and R170
defoliate readily. However, many cultivars have not yet been studied.
Loss of leaves obviously delays flowering - at least until the tree has
matured one or two new flushes.
*Temperature*
We do not get significant growth in northern Australia in months with
mean monthly temperature normals (average of both minimum and maximum
temperatures) below 22 C. This on the average, provides 9 growth months
for Cairns but only 5 months for Brisbane. We do not know how critical
sustained growth is for yield, but obviously at least 8 months are
required. At Nambour, trees flower and fruit, but defoliation in winter
coupled with a long period of fruit development (up to 6 months)
precludes satisfactory fruit-filling and fruit quality. Some cultivars
may prove to require less 'heat units' than others, but the most
southerly limit for even mediocre production will probably be Sarina.
Even in Cairns (17 S) the climate is definitely marginal. The period
from anthesis to fruit maturity in north Queensland varies from 3 to 4
months for spring flowering (Sept/Oct.) to 5 months for autumn flowering
(Feb./ March).
Rambutan is intolerant of frost - but relatively hardy when compared
with other tropicals such as mangosteen, and may possibly tolerate brief
periods of temperature down to 3 or 4 C However, growth is dependent on
satisfactory soil temperature, which is a reflection of ambient
temperature over a number of weeks and is not stimulated by one or two
'warm' days.

Odd cultivars such as R134 appear to provide new leaf flushes throughout
the year in Cairns, although there is a definite slowing down in July to
September.
*CULTIVARS AND FRUIT CHARACTERISTICS*
At this stage, few cultivars introduced into northern Australia have
fruited, and suitable recommendations can only be based on 'tasting'
during overseas trips and information from overseas references. The main
cultivars in Asia are as follows:
N.B. (*= not introduced or not well established in Australia), (y =
yellow pericarp).
*Malaysia*: Cultivated clones are mainly R3 (Peng Thng Bee), R4 (Ya
Tow), R6* (Ayer Mas), R7 (Kepala Besar), R9 (Tau Po Cheng), R86*, R99
(Triang), R134, R137, R139, R154*, R156(y), R160 (Khaw Tow Bak), R161,
R162 (Oh Heok) , R163 (P.J.), R165(y) R1-6:7, R168 Chee Embong), R169*
(Lychee), R170 (Deli Cheng), Gading (y), and Hew.
The current recommendations in Malaysia for fresh fruit cultivars are
R3, R134, R156, R161 and R170. For canning, the range is the same plus
R7, R9, and R99. The recommendation is based on a combination of fruit
quality, yield and field performance. Of the fresh fruit varieties, only
R3 has yet been evaluated at Kamerunga,. It is a slow-growing,
precocious-fruiting cultivar with good fruit characteristics and is
relatively freestone with only a minor tendency for the seed testa to
adhere to the aril. However, the tree is very susceptible to canker
caused by /Botryodiplodia theobromae/.
The cultivar R4 is well-established in north Queensland, is vigorous and
easy to propagate; fruit quality is good but flower and fruit-drop
common. R168 is also well established, but fruit quality disappointing.
Stephens 1, a cultivar raised from seed introduced by Ernie Stephens
from Keravat (P.N.G.), in 1937 has excellent flavour but is slightly
stringy and very much clingstone. It flowers irregularly, but on the
other hand, sets good crops. One or two other local seedlings look
interesting but are not evaluated.
*Thailand*: Only 2 cultivars are widely planted in southern Thailand Chompoo (y), (Seechompoo) and Rongrien. Because the Thais prefer sweet
crisp flavour and very little juice, these two cultivars are preferred
by them. However, in both, and particularly, Rongrien, testa adherance
to the aril is a bad feature. Other cultivars are Bang Yi Khan*, See
Tong*, Nam Tan Kruad (y)*, Jit Mong (Jet Mong = R4), Penang No.4 and
Gulah Batu. Bang Yi Khan, See Tong and Nam Tan Kruad are for European
preference, possibly the best Thai cultivars. Sadao*, Jeh Drabaru*,
Tawee*, Arkorn*, Nga Kulaw*, Colan* and Patavia* are also grown on a
minor scale.
*Indonesia*: Rambutan has been grown in Indonesia for centuries, but
many of the various cultivars selected are not easy to locate and not
very well described.
The main cultivars are Atjeh Kering, Manis*, Lebakbulus, Silengkeng, Pao
Pao*, Sinyonya (Seenjonja), Aceh Garing*, Aceh Kuning*, Sitandkue*,
Simacan (Seematjaan), Binjai, Aceh Gendut*, Aceh Rapiah, (Rapiah). Only
Lebakbulus (this cultivar is possibly the same as Maharlika).
Silengkeng, Binjai, and Rapiah are freely available as nursery trees
have been imported. Simacan (Seematjaan) and Sinyonya (Seenjonja) have
been imported via the Philippines - but not yet authenticated.

Most Indonesian cultivars have a tendency for the aril to detach

together with the testa, although Aceh Gendut is reputed to be freestone
and testa-free. One other cultivar, 'Bogor', selected by Mr. J.
Anderson, is highly recommended and has been imported.
*Singapore*: The industry in Singapore is very small, but has one very
good cultivar Jit Lee (=Deli) which is one of Indonesian origin. Other
cultivars are R37, Ah Kow Cheng* and Kim San Cheng*.
*Philippines*: A few Indonesian cultivars were imported into the
Philippines in the 1930s - Seematjaan (Simacan) Seenjonja (Sinyonya) and
Maharlika*. These plus Maharlika 'Belen' (a seedling from Maharlika
grown by the late Pedro Belen) are the main cultivars, and very few of
the seedling progeny selected from them (apart from Maharlika Belen)
appear to be highly regarded. The indigenous 'Bulala' is an interesting
fruit and grown commercially, but not of the quality of introduced
cultivars.
*N.B.* There has been interchange of cultivars between all the countries
listed and some have been re-named locally. For example, it has been
found that the Thai cultivar Jit (Jeh) Mong is identical to the
Malaysian R4. Hence it is likely that during evaluation in Australia
more duplications will be identified. Further confusion arises when
people name seedlings after the parent tree. This should be avoided,
since progeny are never identical to the parent.
*FLOWERING AND FRUITING BEHAVIOUR*
*Flower Induction*
Initiation of flowering in rambutan is not thought to be a photo period
response, and in north Queensland it can occur both in periods of
increasing and shortening day length. In fact, it may occur at any time
between July and March. In Malaysia, there are two main flowering
periods - March/May and August/October (although not 2 every year), but
variation in flowering time from district to district throughout the
relatively small country is substantial. Differentiation (the laying
down of flower formation cells within the branch terminal) is said to
precede flower panicle emergence by only 3 to 4 weeks.
A dry spell or growth check is reputed to stimulate flowering, but in
Cairns, February or March flowering does not usually fit this pattern.
In southern Thailand (12 deg. S), there is one substantial flowering in
March each year - and why trees behave this way there and not as in
Malaysia (2 main flowerings) or north Queensland (variable flowering
over a long period - July to February) is difficult to fathom. However,
for a substantial flowering in our conditions, it is obvious that a good
vegetative canopy is required. If trees come out of winter with a poor
cover, they tend to have at least one leaf flush in the spring, prior to
flowering.
Also, a late crop (harvesting April to June) tends to restrict
development of flowering for the next crop until at least the following
December/January. Why, however, the cultivar R3 (and possibly others to
be determined), tends to bear a number of small crops successively on
different branches over the summer and autumn is difficult to determine.
Cincturing of main limbs (saw cut) has proved to induce flowering, but
not necessarily a heavy one on all terminals above the cut. Whether one
cinctures during a leaf flush or after leaf hardening for best effect
remains to be determined.

Two types of flower panicles on any one cultivar have been observed the
best where there are strongly-developed terminals with a good length of
foliage along the branch. This type appears to develop a long flower
panicle - both terminally and from axillary buds (although panicle
length and form also varies between cultivars. On weaker terminals, the
flower panicles tend to be shorter and thus have less fruit.
Root pruning may also induce flowering. Whereas in Malaysia trees are
not cultivated, the Thais tend to work up the ground under the canopy to
a depth of 50 to 100 mm approximately 2 months prior to normal flowering
time.
In summary, it is as yet not well-understood what factors cause flower
differentiation (except that stressing trees can assist), and what
precise cultural procedures would be required to bring a crop in at a
planned time in northern Australia.
Some people may suggest that a long period of cropping is desirable
(particularly for home garden trees) - but on the other hand, if
flowering is very erratic and spread over different parts of the trees
at different times, then pest and disease control, harvesting and
pruning operations become more difficult. In our climate, it appears
unlikely that we will achieve more than one crop on any one terminal
during anyone year.
*Flower and Fruit Development*
Flower panicle emergence may start as early as July, but satisfactory
fruit set appears to occur only from September or later development.
Satisfactory 'set' is apparently dependent on the number of male
functional flowers in each panicle, adequate insect pollinators (our
native bees seem to be satisfactory, if present). Warm weather and
adequate wind protection. Trees in windy exposed situations tend to set
poorly, but this may also be due to water stress being accentuated
(particularly rapid transpiration - leaf stomatal water loss by air
movement). It is obviously important to irrigate well during flowering
if a water deficit exists. The Thais start irrigating and fertilizing at
the first sign of panicle development. Also, two Thai cultivars Chompoo and Rongrien (particularly Chompoo) have a very low production
of male functional flowers. They have found the chemical A.N.A. (S.N.A.)
- the Sodium Salt of Napthalene Acetic Acid useful in changing female
functional flowers to male functional and thus increase the amount of
pollen available.
A solution of 10 to 50 p.p.m. active constituent A.N.A. is sprayed on to
individual panicles one metre apart on the tree, when at 25% of flowers
open, again when 50% of flowers open, and again when 75% of flowers open.
This, in actual fact, is three applications about a week apart. Some
growers use only one application when 75% of flowers are open; 1 metre
apart if plenty of pollinating insects are present, and 400 to 600 mm
apart if insects are in low numbers. This treatment has been used on
Chompoo at Kamerunga with good results. Care is required to spray only
individual panicles. Also, some growers graft some branches of
individual trees over to a cultivar which is 100% male functional. It
appears that in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia, cultivars with no
significant production of male functional flowers have been screened out
(on the basis of low yields) however, Seematjaan (Indonesia) is of this
type, and male functional trees are sometimes planted to assist in
pollination.

In Australia, we will obviously select for both yield and quality, and
thus poor pollinating cultivars will probably be excluded from
recommendations unless fruit quality is exceptional and adequate set can
be bought about by chemical means. Lack of pollinating insects, low
humidity and cool winds at flowering time may also present problems in
northern Australia but the first impediment may be overcome by
introducing bee hives. Overhead misting to increase humidity may be
beneficial, but also may be unnecessary, if adequate windbreaks are
present and a suitable microclimate formed.
The period from anthesis to fruit maturity in north Queensland is from
110 to 160 days. November/December flowering provides the shortest
period of fruit development whilst February/March flowering may result
in up to 161 days. We can have a fruit maturity range from December to
August. There are, however, obviously cultivar differences both in time
of peak flowering, but most of this data is not yet available.
Winter fruit in Cairns appear to mature with satisfactory sugar levels
(up to 21 brix in June/July for Chompoo and R162 etc.). Thus there
appears to be no real disadvantage in having late fruit, and there may
actually be a market advantage. However, whether this crop gives maximum
yield potential and whether we can actually control cropping remains to
be worked out.
*Fruit Maturity*
The various rambutan cultivars all have distinctive fruit shape,
tubercle length and pericarp and tubercle colour. Colour is a valuable
guide to maturity, but can only be gauged by experience with each
cultivar. It is easy to judge a fruit mature when in fact the flavour
and juiciness can be improved by hanging far several more days. Brix
levels (total soluble solids - which are in effect approximate sugar
levels) should reach at least 18 and are probably best at 21 to 22 for
most cultivars. Yellow-skinned cultivars tend to turn slightly orange
when very mature.
*Crop Control*
Some aspects of crop control have been covered. However, in essence, it
is, together with pollination and fruit set, the major 'unknown area' in
rambutan cultivation in Australia.
We should look for maximum growth in our trees in the first 3 to 4 years
- to get tree bulk to provide a satisfactory cropping framework capable
of good yields as from year 5 or 6. Currently, the methods available to
us to control cropping are, water relations, nutrition and pruning.
We require a tree with good leaf cover prior to flowering. If water
stress is a major factor to induce flowering, no under-tree mulch should
be provided after year 4, except perhaps a light application after
flower panicle emergence. Water should be withheld and no fertilizer
added in the period approaching expected flowering time. Water shoots,
poor growth and excessive growth should be pruned out. Cincturing (one
saw cut) on major limbs or the single trunk area may assist in promoting
flowering; timing has yet to be resolved.
If and when a satisfactory crop is set and harvested; all past fruiting
terminals should be pruned back 150 to 250 mm below the lowest axillary
fruit panicle. This will induce new terminal growth of suitable vigour.
Leaving fruit panicle remains on the tree induces a number of weak growths.
If, at harvest time, whole panicles are removed, then in fact the

pruning operation can be done then.

*Fertilizing*
Moderate soil acidity, pH of 5 to 6.5, is recommended, and does help
prevent induced trace element deficiencies. Zinc and iron are probably
most suspect.
For the major elements, crop removal is probably in the order of the
ratio of:
N
15

P
2

K
12

Ca
6

Mg
2.5

For trees up to the stage of first fruiting, a 'growth' mixture is

required: At planting, in and around the planting hole, apply 100 g of
single superphosphate.
Thereafter, in August, December and April for the first four years,
apply split dressings from an annual total of 50g N, 15g P and 30g K per
tree per year of age.
From year 5 to year 10 ( and constant after year 10) apply 80g N, 10g P
and 50g K per tree per year of age - split to 2/3 immediately after
harvest (or April, if no flowering) and 1/3 immediately after flower
panicle emergence (or November, if no flowering).
In addition, in August each year apply 0.5 kg of Dolomite per tree per
year of age up to a maximum at year 10.
All fertilizers and lime should be broadcast in a one-metre-wide band
centred on the drip line. Required rates after commencement of cropping
may, in fact, exceed those suggested above. Trace elements should be
applied as required, the basic requirement as indicated by leaf
deficiency symptoms or by past results. Critical leaf nutrient levels
for major and minor elements have not been established for rambutan.
However, leaf analysis will be necessary for rationalization of
fertilizer use and maximising yield and fruit quality.
Animal and poultry manures are used in some countries. In Thailand,
approximately 35 to 50 kg of chicken manure is applied per tree after
harvest.
*N.B.* Fertilizer recommendations are in terms of element. These must be
adjusted in terms of actual fertilizer: eg. 80g N = approximately 170 g
Urea; or 400g of Sulphate of Ammonia. 60g K = approximately 150 g
Muriate of Potash.
*PRUNING AND TREE TRAINING *
Following planting, the objective is to maintain maximum growth rates
and thus there is little necessity to prune in the first 3 to 4 years,
other than encouraging a strong framework. Bud-grafted trees tend to
produce main branches with wide angled crotches which are very
desirable. However, other propagation techniques usually result in a
tree form with more acute crotch angles.
Acutely-angled branches should be avoided and young trees pruned to
promote wide crotches, and an open vase shape. However all other growth
should be allowed to develop unimpeded in the first four years.
Subsequently at bearing age, low-lying branchlets, water shoots and weak
growths should be pruned back flush to main limbs and the cut surfaces

painted with copper oxychloride slurry or proprietary tree wound

materials. After each harvest, panicle remains must be removed entirely
- preferably the terminal cut back to 150 to 250 mm below the bottom
axillary panicle.
Crossing or excessively close branches should also be removed.
Individual cultivars vary in natural growth habit from lax
(low-spreading) to upright crowns, but generally all provide a
dome-shaped canopy if light is not restricted through competition from
neighbouring trees. Density should be maintained to allow permanent
trees unimpeded lateral development - otherwise, all growth and fruit is
pushed up and harvesting and pest control and disease control made more
difficult.
*SOD CULTURE/COVER CROPPING AND MULCHING*
Natural grass cover between trees is satisfactory providing the dripline
to tree trunk area is kept weeded. However a legume sward is preferred.
/Centrosema pubescens, Stylosanthes guianensis/ cultivars, /Desmodium
heterophyllum, Vigna hosei/ or /Desmodium intortum/ are all suitable
legume covers, but may be difficult to maintain in good condition if low
splashing is attempted or regular traffic by machinery is necessary. The
appropriate innoculum and adequate phosphatic fertilizer is necessary to
establish and maintain legumes. Vine-type legumes such as /Pueraria
javanica/ or /Macrottilium atropurpureum/ (Siratro) should be avoided
since it is difficult to prevent them climbing the trees.
Mulching is particularly useful in the first 3 to 4 years of tree growth
- and any organic waste material is beneficial. Main mulch application
should be made just after each wet season.
*WINDBREAKS*
Tree blocks should have perimeter windbreaks - particularly on the
south-eastern and southerly sides. Suitable species are /Eugenia
cuminii/ (jambolan), /Casuarina cunninghamii , Casuarina equisetifolia/
(but avoid susceptible forms of /Leucaena leucocephala/).
In addition, interplanting temporary windbreak trees within rows of
rambutan in advance of field planting provides a very good microclimate
effect. These inter-plants should be removed in the third or fourth
year, and at no time allowed to substantially overgrow the rambutan
trees. Suitable interplants are bananas, /Leucaena leucocephala/
(moderately vigorous strains), /Gliricidia maculata/, and bana grass.
*IRRIGATION*
Irrigation is essential throughout northern Australia even in what are
considered 'very wet' areas such as Innisfail/Tully. Expected peak
requirement is 90% of pan evaporation, or up to 60 mm per week. The
critical period is from the first sign of flower panicle emergence until
after the first growth flush following harvesting. However for maximum
growth of juvenile trees, watering at all times of soil deficit is
necessary. Mulching will reduce watering requirement. In-ground lines
with under-tree sprinklers are recommended. Preferably the whole of the
under canopy area plus a minimum of 1 metre outside the drip line should
be watered. Trickle irrigation has been suggested by some authorities
but could have problems, particularly if there are not enough drip
positions around each bearing tree.
*WEED CONTROL*
Exclusion of all weeds and vegetative cover under the tree canopy and
extending at least one metre outside the drip line is desirable. Contact

weedicides such as paraquat, glyphosate and sodium arsenate are preferred.

*HARVESTING, PACKAGING AND POST HARVEST TREATMENTS*
Once a maturity index for a particular cultivar is established (either
based on changes in fruit colour, but tested by taste or Brix level) and
the fruit reach that stage, then picking can commence. Some panicles on
some cultivars tend to mature fruits uniformly, but others do not. Fruit
may have to be taken off in sub-panicle lots. The inflorescence stalk is
cut and the branches removed to the packing shed. In Malaysia and
Indonesia, most fruit are marketed in bunches intact on the panicle, and
deterioration in fruit colour is slower than when fruit are cut off
individually. Under our marketing system, however, it is desirable (as
for litchis) to separate fruit. Exposed fruit tend to dehydrate and lose
colour rapidly and are only attractive for 2 - 3 days after harvest.
However storage in polythene bags at 10 C will give a shelf life of 12
days. A cold dip in benomyl (1000 p.p.m.) will prevent storage rots at
temperatures even as high as 26 to 30 C.
Studies have yet to be carried out to test hot water dips (eg. litchis,
52 for 2 minutes in hot water benomyl dip) which could well provide a
very satisfactory shelf life even at relatively high storage temperatures.
The rambutan fruit is by virtue of its thick pericarp and tubercles not
readily damaged by handling, although the appearance of the tubercles
can suffer if compressed during transit.
Rambutan may possibly be best presented in a 4.5 kg polythene-lined
carton, or, prepackaged in 'vita film'-covered strawberry punnets as per
the recent development with litchis.
*PESTS AND DISEASES*
Fortunately, whereas we do not have the major pests and diseases
affecting rambutan in the countries of origin, /Dolabra nepheliae/ (stem
canker), /Oidium nephelii/ (fruit, flower and leaf mildew) etc., we do
not have a number of major problems.
The worst fungus in north Queensland is /Botryodiplodia theobromae/
which causes a trunk canker - particularly in the region of the graft
union. Approach-grafted trees are most susceptible, and the graft union
should be coated with a 50/50 slurry of burnt lime and copper
oxychloride at regular intervals for the first 2 years after grafting.
The various species of /Rhyparida/ (black beetles) give constant
problems with leaf, twig and flower damage during summer and autumn.
Control with trichlorphon or carbaryl (0.1%) is satisfactory, but not
persistent. Carbaryl should not be used during flowering. Various
species of lepidopterous caterpillars are a particular nuisance in
autumn, both on foliage and flower panicles. Synthetic pyrethroids such
as permethrin give fair control, but occasionally the organophosphates
are necessary. Fortunately there are few insect pests on fruit but mealy
bugs are sometimes troublesome. The fruit fly species existing in
northern Australia do not appear to sting fruit. In the Philippines some
species do sting, but Maharlika 'Belen' is reputed to be resistant.
Overall, rhyparida beetles and caterpillars are the most serious pests
due to the massive defoliation which can occur in few flushes.
Flying foxes are a problem on larger trees, and once a few fruit are
taken, the rest are in jeopardy. A recent development in flashing Strobe

lights (which scare the bats away) looks promising.

*PROPAGATION*
Rambutan propagation under our conditions is costly, but may become much
more simple as we come to understand limiting climatic conditions and
perhaps develop new techniques.
*Airlayering*
Airlayering is now seldom practised anywhere due to unreliability. Root
development after cincturing and peat-balling is often slow. Larger
branches are preferred. After roots are apparent and the outer ones turn
brownish, the airlayer should be potted and placed under mist or in a
humid environment until established. Airlayering in November/December
provides quickest results.
*Approach Grafting (Sometimes referred to as Inarching)*
This is best attempted by matching up seedlings and scion branches on
the ground or on platforms in the canopy. Mr. H. Bosworth of Ingham has
devised a technique of surrounding the parent tree with heavy arc mesh
and sliding supporting boards through the mesh at desired heights.
Young vigorous seedlings and scion branches are preferred since
callusing is rapid and the grafted tree can be detached in as little as
6 weeks. Older wood combinations may require up to 10 weeks to complete
the process. The best season is January to April when sap flow is strong
and frequent rain obviates hand-watering. However, it is desirable to
provide overhead spray misting systems. The scion and stock surfaces are
matched - preferably low on the stock and high up on green/brown wood on
the scion. Cut no deeper than one-half the thickness of each branch, and
for a maximum length of 30 mm. Long cuts (up to 60 mm) callus slowly and
often poorly and allow invasion of fungi. Ties should be tight, but it
does not appear to provide a water proof seal and mastic over the tie.
If growth of both stock and scion is vigorous, then the stock above the
union can be cut off at 4 weeks and the scion below the union cut
(notched) to 1/3 scion thickness. At 5 weeks cut to 2/3 and at 6 weeks,
detach the scion. If growth is slow or the wood very mature at the
union, it is safer to delay detachment to 8 to 10 weeks. Then move the
grafted plant to a closed, high-humidity bed or mist system, or
alternatively, enclose the scion in a polythene bag for 2 weeks. Do not
remove the ties until the scion has made 300 mm of new growth. Then,
carefully cut the stubs and paint with cuprox/burnt lime (50/50) slurry.
Approach grafting in potted trees is also useful, and very young scion
growths can be used with quick turnover.
*Wedge Grafting*
This method has only been successfully developed by a few people and
results are not consistent - although there is room for much more
experimenting. In view of variable results to date, it is preferable to
use approach grafting or modified forkert budding.
*Side Veneer Grafts*
Again results have not been consistent; although promising, there are
obvious differences in success with different cultivars.
*Modified Forkert Bud Grafting*
This is a favoured technique at present, and it allows the maximum use
of scion material, particularly when one does not have access to trees
for approach grafting.
The technique is relatively simple, but the ease with which buds can be

taken from the scion stocks, the lifting of bark on stocks and
temperature at time of forcing buds complicates the issue.
Rootstocks used in Asia appear not to be selected for performance and
"sour" or poor quality seedling fruit are used. Also, freestone
cultivars are easy to seed-clean and thus these types often end up as
stocks. It is unfortunate that rootstocks are not cloned, or at least
one cultivar recommended for providing even-growth vigorous rootstocks.
Perhaps we should use seed from vigorous cultivars such as R168. In
Malaysia, many 'rogue' trees are often thought to result from using
mixed stocks from various sources.
Seedlings of the Queensland selection 'Stephens l' appear to make poor
rootstocks.
Seeds should be freshly-extracted, soaked in a solution of captafol and
laid on their sides and barely covered. Best results appear to be from
sowing individual seeds in a peat/sand (50/50) mix in 50 mm peat pots.
Once established, these seedlings can be repotted with minimum set-back.
Seed sowing in summer is much preferable to winter or early spring, even
when bottom heat is provided for the latter.
A preferred potting mix is 2 parts coarse sand plus 1 part peat or
bagasse or compost plus one of humic free-drainage loamy top soil.
Seedling growth is best in a hot humid environment. Well-grown seedlings
are big enough to bud graft at 10 to 15 months of age, when stem
diameter at about 100 mm above the potting medium is 8 to 10 mm.
Frequently applied (weekly) foliar fertilizers alone or in combination
with slow-release, soil-applied fertilizers are best for seedling
growth. However, both seedlings and newly-grafted trees are very
susceptible to leaf burn and defoliation, both from excessive fertilizer
application and a number of the insecticides.
Humidity does appear to favour bud 'sweating'.
The bud should be kept as dry as possible and only hand-watering
attempted for 2 to 3 weeks after grafting. Sunny conditions appear to
favour 'takes'.
A new patch bud technique which we are just starting to investigate is
'punch budding', as used in macadamias. If successful, it should prove a
boon since it is much easier to detach buds from the scion stock and
stock with the hollow punch, and it may be possible to graft in Spring
and Summer when it is normally difficult to remove scion buds.
With the normal modified forkert bud, it would be very desirable to
perform this in the months September to December. However, usually it is
difficult to satisfactorily remove buds from scion sticks in these
months. On the other hand, conditions are variable, and in
August/September 1981 it has been found possible to lift buds.
*Cuttings*
It would be very desirable to grow plants from cuttings - being cheaper
and possibly giving more uniform trees. However few successes have been
achieved - and only when the material is cinctured. Again, some
cultivars may be easier than others. Further, it may be possible to
'stool' rambutan as is used in providing deciduous fruit rootstocks,
however results to date are not encouraging.

*PLANTING AND ESTABLISHMENT*

Bud-grafted trees appear to produce wide-angled crotches which are
desirable to give tree strength and resistance to cyclonic winds. For
trees produced from airlayers, approach grafts and side veneers, wedges,
growth is more upright and careful formative pruning is necessary to
modify crotch angle. Trees for field planting should be 'hardened off'
and at least covered with temporary shade (tree branches etc.) for a few
weeks after setting out.
Sites should be deep-ripped and preferably provided with compost or fowl
manure some months before planting. Take care not to plant trees too
deep, and in fact, elevate slightly on a low mound. Water in, rather
than exert pressure around the plant, after filling the hole.
Tree guards made with wind break 'sarlon'-type material or hessian are
beneficial - both to reduce airflow and provide shade for newly-planted
trees. Trees should be staked for the first two years.
At planting - 2 additional seedlings - (to give a triangle effect) can
be planted 150 to 300 mm from the grafted tree - and later inarched to
give increased tree stability.
Due to insect damage which can severely restrict development of young
trees, it may be of advantage to hold trees in the nursery until they
are relatively well-advanced (8 to 12 months after grafting) before
planting out. However, containers should be sufficiently large to
prevent a 'root-bound' condition. September to February are the
preferred months for planting out, but care must be taken to prevent
sunburn when planting October to January.
*SPACING*
Various cultivars have different growth rates and tree forms. For
example R4 is very vigorous and has a wide crown and should be planted
at least 13 metres apart. R168 is also vigorous, but more upright. On
the other hand, R3 is relatively slow-growing and could have a permanent
spacing of 10 metres.
It may be practicable to double-plant within the rows in order to
increase early yields, followed by tree removal. Alternatively, the
inter-spaces can be used for other short term productive crops such as
carambola, or perhaps preferably used for windbreak trees which will
grow much faster than rambutan. Data for mature tree dimensions for all
cultivars is not available.
*YIELD*
The real question as to a 'make or break' situation for rambutan in
northern Australia is yield. Whether yield and market prices can
together provide a satisfactory return on capital and operating costs
remains to be seen, and probably at this stage must be regarded as at
least very marginal. We have not yet seen any cultivar perform in a
satisfactory manner, giving yearly production which would indicate
profitability.
However, few cultivars have been evaluated, and then only at an early
life stage. Hopefully, a few cultivars giving satisfactory fruit quality
may be adaptable to our environment and provide satisfactory yields.
Also, our management practises are not yet well defined.
Malaysian yields at year 12 from planting appear to average 85 kg in

comparison with 300 kg in Thailand. If under our conditions 150 to 200

kg could be achieved, then prospects would be reasonable. However, at
this stage it is not even worth speculating.
Our advice is either to wait until the data is available - or to trial a
small number of trees in order to assist with evaluation and gain
experience in the management of this crop.
*Addendum*
*N.B.* Fruit drop at nearly maturity is a common occurrence and is
partially due to fruit pushing each other off the panicle when set is
excessive - or due to stress or unknown factors. A spray of 1 to 4%
S.N.A. active constituent applied 2 to 3 weeks prior to harvest is
reputed to reduce drop - in Thailand.
B.J.Watson, September 1981
DATE: November 1981
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