Beginners Guide to

Wirework
for Beautiful
Jewelry

Created exclusively for Craftsy by

Kate Wilkonson and Cindy Wimmer

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

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A Guide to Wireworking Tools and Wire

Choosing the Right Temper for Wire Jewelry
How to Make Classic Hoop Earrings Thatll Never Go Out of Style
How to Make a Wonderfully Versatile Wire Chain Bracelet
How to Wire-Wrap Buttons to Make an Easy Pendant
Meet the Authors

A GUIDE TO

Jewelry Wireworking Tools and Wire

By Kate Wilkonson
So, youve decided to take the leap to learning wirework? This guide
should help you get started making lots of great jewelry pieces with
minimal investment.
The tools listed here are my personal go-to tools when using wire.
They can be used to grip, pull, wrap, cut and straighten, in addition to
many other tasks you have yet to imagine.

Essentially, these tools will be extensions of your hands, so try a few

different brands and see what is the most comfortable for you. Keep in
mind that just because one pair is more expensive than another, that
doesnt necessarily make them better. There are plenty of tools that
can be bought on a budget and could be some of your favorites well
into the future.

Pliers
In addition to helping you make more elegant curves, pliers will help
you make loops, connectors and will be instrumental in wireworking.
You will notice that most pliers youll find will have a spring between
the jaws. This helps keep them separated. That way, when youre working,
your hands are working to keep the jaws closed. There are pliers many
people swear by that dont have this spring. I find them to be less than
ideal since your hands then work to keep your tools open as well as
working to close them. This will just be a matter of personal preference.

ROUND-NOSE PLIERS
Before buying the first pair that you see, take a little time and think
about what kind of work youll want to be doing. If you have pretty
large-scale designs with thick wire in mind, youll want to look for a
pair that are on the larger side of the spectrum. Having that extra heft
will help you really move your metal.
Thinking on a more delicate scale? Consider a pair of pliers that will
help you make smaller circles. Id also recommend looking to find a
pair where the jaws fit pretty tightly from the tips to the bases. If youre
using a pretty thin gauge wire, this will allow for you to use the entire
length of your pliers. This is a benefit especially when youre just learning.

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FLAT-NOSED PLIERS
These pliers are my favorite for making sharp turns, maintaining
tension and overall assisting the grip on wire when working.
Again, think about what would be the best use of them for you and
definitely look for a pair that do not have any texture on the jaws. While
it might seem like a good idea to grab the ones from your garage, they
will make things harder for you in the long run. The texture will mangle
your metal and leave you with gouges that will not only give your
pieces a less finished look, but that can also create sharp edges that
can snag on clothing or skin.
Its a good idea to walk yourself through the entire project before you
get started. That way, you can potentially avoid time pitfalls (like extra
finish work) if at all possible.
The pair on the left are my more heavy-duty pair, which allow me to
shape hoops, open and close thick gauge jump rings, and any other
heavier duty projects that present themselves. They would probably
be overkill on smaller projects. While the big ones get a lot of use in
the studio, the pair on the right are my favorite flat-nosed pliers. I find
them to be the perfect mix of tiny tips and strong centers. Keep your
eyes peeled in any bead stores for a pair that are just what you are
looking for.

NYLON-JAWED PLIERS
If youre still learning and find that
you continually end up with wire
thats crimped, textured and overall a
lot harder to use, these might be the
lifesaver youve been looking for. Put
one end of your wire between the
jaws, hold tightly and pull through,
straightening your wire as you go.
This can be repeated more than once
if necessary. Keep in mind that this is
a form of work hardening your piece
of wire, so you might end up with wire
that is a bit more springy and not as
easy to manage.
Dont want to invest in these just yet?
You can fold thick leather scraps over
the jaws of your flat-nose pliers and get a similar result. Give them a try
and see if they help you. Mine are an equal mix of well loved nylon and
leather they might not be the prettiest things but they work!
WIRE CUTTERS OR
FINGERNAIL CLIPPERS
Its important to have a reliable
way to cut your wire. Some
people prefer flush cutters or
wire cutters like the ones on the
left, which are great if youre
wanting to cut thicker gauge
metal. For the longevity of your
tool, its best to use the area
closer to where the jaws meet
so that you dont wear out the tips.
If youre cutting smaller gauge
wire, one of my favorite tricks
is to use a pair of fingernail
clippers. These allow you to get
into tiny areas that bulky cutters
cant. For slightly thicker wire,
toenail clippers work great.

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Wire
Depending on your supplier, the number of available gauges of wire
can make your head spin. No need to get overwhelmed though, there
are a few basic sizes that youll be able to use for many projects.
24-gauge wire
This size is great for projects that need a little extra strength or for
beads that might have larger holes.
26-gauge wire
This size will fit through the majority of the beads that you get. Its also
hefty enough that you know your wraps will be secure. Be careful not
to crimp or bend the wire multiple times, as that will weaken it.
28- or 30-gauge wire
If you are using small precious stone beads, youll find that often the
holes will be extra tiny and youll have trouble getting a 26-gauge wire
through them. Thats when youd want to reach for this wire. However,
this is probably not the best choice if you are planning on wrapping
those stones into a bracelet or a piece that will encounter a lot of wear.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT

Temper of Wire for Jewelry

By Kate Wilkonson
When choosing your materials for an upcoming project, its important
to know what youre looking for before you head to the store. Different
tempers of wire will behave differently and there is likely one that is
best suited to your jewelry project.
The way that wire responds to your hands and tools can greatly affect
your successes or failures. Especially if youre a beginner, its best to learn
a little bit about the behaviors of each before you invest in something
that will make your first projects more difficult. Read on for some
suggestions and tips for choosing the right temper of wire for jewelry.

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Work Hardening
One of the most basic concepts in metals is the lesson of hardening
and annealing. Simply put, when metal is annealed that means that the
crystalline structure of the piece is at its loosest state. This allows for
freedom and ease in shaping.
On the other side of the spectrum, when a piece has been "work
hardened," its structure has been compressed and the metal has been
stressed to the point when forming will become difficult or maybe
impossible without cracking. Work hardening can be a valuable tool
when used correctly. Many jewelers and metalsmiths will harden their
piece as a last step to ensure that the desired shape is secure well into
the future.

What Does All That Mean?

While you may be able to find wire that is available in all of these
hardnesses, there is likely one that will be better suited to your project
than another, which we'll discuss in more depth below.
In the past, wire was assigned a number, ranging from zero to four,
designating the hardness. The numbers would correlate to the number
of times that the wire had been pulled through a draw plate. This is a
technique in which wire is pulled through graduated holes in a steel
or wooden plate that stretches and forms the metal into wire. It also
works to harden the metal. The lower the number, the softer the wire.
So a zero would be dead soft since it would not have been at all work
hardened. A four would mean hard in that it would have been pulled
through four times.

Photo source Wikimedia Creative Commons, via artist Mauro Cateb

Dead Soft Wire

Dead soft wire has been annealed to its softest point before you begin
to work with it. What that means is more flexibility and ease when
forming your designs. This would be a great choice if youre wrapping
briolettes and you really want your wire to form to the shape of the
stone or if youre doing lots of small intricate shapes. Its easy to bend
with your hands so this might be a good fit for you if thats a way that
you enjoy working.

Half-Hard Wire
On the other hand, half-hard wire has a bit more spring and resistance
to it. Youll notice that when shaping it with your hands, it will be more
firm and have a bit more spring. That does have its benefits. If, for
example, youre making hoops or finished wire components, you want
your wire to maintain its structure after youve molded it. Half-hard
wire would be an excellent choice in this instance.
As you experiment with half-hard wire, keep in mind that the metal
has an inherent springiness to it. Because of this, youll need to push
it slightly past the point where you want it to end. This way, your wire
will relax into its final desired shape. As an aside, half-hard might make
briolette wrapping more difficult based on this springiness.

Hard Wire
While much more difficult to work with, hard wire will allow you to
form more permanent shapes. So if youre up for the challenge, it
might be a good choice if youre doing bigger pieces without a lot of
small twists and turns.
Remember experimenting is always a valuable tool, so try a bit of each
and see what works best in your hands.

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HOW TO MAKE CLASSIC HOOP EARRINGS

Thatll Never Go Out of Style

By Kate Wilkonson
Classic hoop earrings are a wardrobe staple that will never go out of
style. Theyre an easy way to upgrade almost any outfit, and they also
make wonderful gifts. Best of all, they are really quite simple to make.
In this tutorial, Ill show you how to make a wire-wrapped hoop.
Once you acquire this essential jewelry making skill, the options for
customization are truly endless!

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Tools and Supplies You'll Need:

Round-nose pliers
Flat-nose pliers
Needle-nose pliers
About 12" of wire (Im using 16 gauge 14/20 rose gold filled round wire.)
2 ear hooks
Something round to form your pieces on. (Im using a large round
mandrel, but feel free to get creative; baseball bats work great, as
do wooden dowels for a more economical option.)
A file (Not mandatory, but just a little extra detail that will help
make your piece look finished.)
STEP 1:
Begin by measuring your wire. This pair will be slightly larger than 6"
each. Ive found that these are a great everyday size for lots of folks,
but if you know that you like your pieces smaller, you could go for a
4.5"-5" pair. Cut them both at the same time so youre sure to have
consistent sizing at the end.

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STEP 2:
If youve used wire cutters, youll
probably have crimped ends. These
will end up being smack dab in the
middle of the finished piece, and,
for the detail-oriented, can be
quite an eyesore. Youve gone this
far, why not finish the ends? Just
grab your file and flatten the ends.
Then, when wire ends meet, youll
have a nice clean connection.
STEP 3:
Likely, your wire will have been
spooled when you purchased
it and this is one of those rare
moments when that actually
works to your advantage. Note
which direction the curve swoops
and imagine that being the inner diameter of your hoop. Hold it in your
hands so it swoops upward and to the right. Now, using your needle-nose
pliers, make a small circle backwards so it ends perpendicular to your
original curve. Youll want this to be large enough for the other end of
your wire to fit through but not too large that itll look sloppy when finished.

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STEP 4:
Find the general center of your wire and line that up with the mandrel
or round object youll be using. It doesnt need to be perfectly center
but itll help you in the long run if its closer than not. Youll want to
choose the depth of the curve you want at this point. If you form
your hoop around the larger part of the mandrel, youll have a wider,
more circular shape. Whereas, a smaller form will create an elongated
teardrop shape.
STEP 5:
Put gentle pressure on both sides of the wire as you begin to shape it
around your mandrel. Moderate is key here if you push way too hard
that can lead to some misshaping. Best not to have to fix silly problems
in the long run. Go slow and youll make make fewer mistakes until
you get the hang of it.
STEP 6:
As the two ends begin to meet one another, press a tiny bit harder on
the end with no loop. Just enough so it will just barely fit into the hole
on the other side. You want to make this fit as soon as you can so that
you dont get extra bending in your wire.

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STEP 7:
Using your needle-nose pliers, form a small circle (as close to the same
size as your original one), so the filed end meets the neck of the teardrop.

STEP 8:
Use your flat-nosed pliers to adjust any parts that may have gotten
a little wonky.
There you have it, youre finished your first hoop!
STEP 9:
Repeat Steps 1-8, making sure that you use the same spot on your
mandrel and pliers so youll have a matching pair. Attach ear wires
and youre all set!
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Have fun playing around with different shapes of wire or types of metal.
Square wire is one of my favorites and 14K gold fill is an all-around
crowd-pleaser, but you might want to try craft wire or copper until
youve got this technique nailed.

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HOW TO MAKE A

Wonderfully Versatile Wire Chain Bracelet

By Cindy Wimmer
Learning to make handmade wire chain is a great foundation for
jewelry designers interested in learning how to make wirework jewelry.
All sorts of chain can be made, depending on the types of wire used
and shape of the links made, from simple to complex. Only a handful
of tools are needed to make wire chain, and it can be made without
having to solder.
In this tutorial, well show you how to make a textured wire chain
bracelet with a handmade clasp.

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Tools and Supplies Youll Need:

Two Sharpies
Round-nose pliers
Flat hand file
Flat-nose pliers
Flush cutters
Chasing hammer
Ruler
Steel bench block
Sandbag
22-gauge half-hard sterling silver wire
16-gauge pure copper wire
Liver of sulfur (optional)
Fine steel wool (optional)
Rotary tumbler with stainless steel shot (optional)

STEP 1:
Tape two Sharpies together with packing tape to create an
oval-shaped mandrel.
STEP 2:
Cut 3 "of 16-gauge copper wire. Place the Sharpies on the center
of the wire. Press the wire up and around the bottom section of the
mandrel (the black area of the Sharpies). Press the wire firmly against
the mandrel to create an oval shape.

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STEP 3:
Continue pressing the wires around the mandrel to make an oval
shape with the wires oriented in the opposite direction.
STEP 4:
Find the center of the oval shape. Insert the flat-nose pliers under one
of the wires, with the edge of the pliers at the center of the shape.
Bend the wire up so that the tail is perpendicular to the oval shape.

STEP 5:
Measure the tail wire to 5/8" and trim. File the cut end of the wire. Bend
the tail wire back 90 degrees.
Mark the round-nose pliers approximately of the way from the tip
with a Sharpie. You will use this mark to make a simple loop.
STEP 6:
Grasp the end of the tail wire with the round-nose pliers at the mark.
Roll the wire forward to make a simple loop. Readjust the loop as
needed so that it is centered on the oval link shape.
STEP 7:
Trim the excess wire from the remaining tail. Line the cutters up with
the simple loop and make a flush cut. Grasp the wire with the flat-nose
pliers and wiggle the cut wire back and forth as you would a jump ring,
so that the cut end of the wire is flush against the edge of the loop.
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STEP 8:
Place the link on the steel bench block. Hammer the outside edges of
the oval to flatten.
STEP 9:
Turn the hammer over and use the ball end to add texture to the wire
link. Readjust the open end of the wire so it lines up flush with the
loop, as it will shift while hammering.
STEP 10:
Cut 3 "of 22-gauge silver wire, leaving a short tail
to grasp hold of the wire. Wrap the longer end of
the wire around the copper link tightly. Make four
wraps (you can vary the number of wraps depending
on your preference) and leave a small space. This
space allows room to attach the links together. Make
another four wraps around the link. Trim the wire on
the same side this will be the back of the link. Press
the cut ends down with the flat-nose pliers to secure.
Note: These wire wraps help to keep the links
centered on one another once they are linked
together. Without these wire wraps, the links will
slide around when the bracelet is worn.

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STEP 11:
To make the hook clasp, cut 4"of 16-gauge copper wire.
Repeat Steps 2 through 4, but leave a 1"tail instead.
Hammer the very tip of the tail wire with the hammer
and bench block to flatten slightly. Grasp the end of the
wire with the tip of the round-nose pliers to make small
loop. Grasp the wire under this loop with the back of
the round-nose pliers and rotate forward, creating a hook.
STEP 12:
Open the simple loop of each link and attach to the next
link by closing the loop in between the silver wire wraps.
Note: I recommend oxidizing the bracelet in a liver of
sulfur solution to bring out the details in the wirework.
After oxidizing, brush off the excess oxidization with fine
steel wool (#0000), then add to a rotary tumbler
to polish and work harden the wire links.
And thats all there is to it!
See how easy how easy it is
to make your own bracelet
from wire chain?

If Youre Looking to Get

Creative, Here Are Some
Ideas for Variations on
This Chain:
U
 se a round-shaped
mandrel instead of oval.
Change the types of wire
used. Use sterling silver
as the base with goldfilled wire for an elegant
look, for example.
Try adding different
types of texture on the
link. Instead of texturing
hammers, use metal
design stamps.
Vary the size of the links
one small, one large
making a new chain pattern.

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HOW TO WIRE-WRAP BUTTONS

to Make an Easy Pendant

By Cindy Wimmer

If youre drawn to vintage style and antiques, chances are you have a
jar or two of pretty old buttons. Carved mother of pearl buttons are
especially popular to collect. With just a little wire and a few jewelry
making tools, you can make an easy button pendant with basic wirewrapping techniques.
In this tutorial, Ill show you how to wire-wrap buttons with a technique
that can also be used for lampwork discs and other flat components.

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Tools and Supplies Youll Need:

B
 utton or lampwork disc of your choice
(I used a 24mm button)
18-gauge wire (I used dead-soft sterling silver)
Round-nose pliers
Chain-nose pliers
Flush cutters
Ruler
Sharpie

STEP 1:
Cut a 5" piece of 18-gauge wire.
STEP 2:
Measure the wire and make a mark at 1 " with a Sharpie. Slide the
button onto the wire and place on the mark.
STEP 3:
Bend both wires up, pressing the wires snug against the button.
STEP 4:
Bend the wires so that they cross over top of the button. Be sure to
leave a small amount of space between the button and wires so that
the button can move freely.

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STEP 5:
Bend the long wire up with the tip of the chain-nose pliers. Bend the
short wire forward. The wires form a 90-degree angle.
STEP 6:
Grasp the short with the chain-nose pliers and wrap around the longer
wire twice. Trim the wire.
STEP 7:
Bend the long wire back 90 degrees. Place
the middle of the round-nose pliers at the
bend and make a wrapped loop. Youll
want to make this loop large enough so
that you can slide it onto a necklace chain.
STEP 8:
Wrap the tail wire over top of the previous
wraps, keeping the wraps parallel and
neat. Trim the wire on the back side of the
button and press the wire down. Check
your wirework and be sure that the wire
on the top of the button is in a straight
line with the loop, creating a precise and
finished look.
Now you are ready to slip the pendant on
to a finished chain or leather cord its
ready to wear!
Tip: For a more rustic look, use
pre-oxidized wire or oxidize the
pendant after it is completed.

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Once you get the hang of this easy wire-wrapping technique, youll
find there are many variations to try. You can vary the type of wire and
use twisted wire. Try making pendants with different metals, such as
brass or copper. Bring out your
stash of art beads and make
a wire-wrapped pendant with
lampwork or ceramic discs.
Stone focal beads like these
are also perfect for making
wire-wrapped pendants.

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Ready for more?

Learn how to finish your designs like a pro with custom jump rings,
head pins, ear wires, clasps and more in the online jewelry class
Make Your Own Wirework Findings, taught by award-winning artist
Lisa Niven Kelly.
Click on the button below to enjoy special savings on video lessons
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MEET THE AUTHORS

CINDY WIMMER

KATE WILKONSON

Cindy Wimmer of Sweet Bead Studio is a jewelry

designer with a passion for combining vintage
elements with modern wire design. Her jewelry
has been published internationally, and she has
contributed designs to the books Wire Style 2,
Bead Soup and Unexpected Findings. Cindy is
author of The Missing Link. She lives in Virginia
with her husband and four sons.

With a background in fashion and industrial

design, the world of jewelry always called to Kate
Wilkonson. She currently lives and works in Denver,
but wanders the globe in search of inspiration and
unique supplies. Kate especially loves the custom
side of her business, Arcatus Jewelry, where she
gets to help people celebrate, honor and create
pieces that fit them, their loved ones and their lives.

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