Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

EARTHED A/W 17/18

Messner Mountain Museum

C O NTE X T
W
Wha
ha t doe s it me a n to be e a rthe d in the
21s t ce ntury?
In a world increasingly lived through screens, our
urge to connect with nature is becoming more
visceral. This direction is driven by a need to
experience nature first-hand, to see the world
through the eyes of animals, to tap into something
wilder. Our perspective of the planet will oscillate
between microscopic and macroscopic views, and
colour will have a new importance, with a tangible,
physical quality that will ground us.
Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Interspecifics

European Space Agency

EARTHED A/W 17/18

KEY TAKEAWAYS
Our relationship with nature will become more
experiential and visceral as a new desire for techfree self-reliance comes to the fore
Popular interest in science will grow, making it as
cool as sport, particularly for Generation Z
Designs will increasingly be grown rather than
made, using bacteria and other natural processes
The farm-to-table movement will extend towards
farm-to-fitting room, as apparel looks to homegrown and locally sourced materials. Other
consumer products such as skincare and home-care
will also increasingly focus on natural materials that
are safe enough to eat
Colour will assume a new importance, with an
intensity that is inspired by nature. Beyond product
design, it will be used to create immersive, physical
experiences that ground the spectator, both in the
physical and digital worlds

Ryan Sullivan

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

EARTHED A/W 17/18

WE AR E AT A TUR NING
POINT NOWWH EN WE
H AV E UNDER STOOD TH AT
TH E CONSEQUENCES OF
TH E PAST NEED US TO
INTENTIONAL L Y AND
D ECISIV EL Y R ED EFINE
TH E FU TU R e.
C hristia na Figueres, executive secreta ry of the UN
Fra mew ork C onvention on C lima te C ha nge

Ryan Sullivan

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

CONSUMER

EARTHED A/W 17/18

HUMAN NATUR E
Nature doesnt need people. People
need nature." So says the first line of the
'humanifesto' by environmental
organisation Conservation International.
It's a fitting sentiment to start with in
this direction.
The way we see nature and relate to it is
changing, partly influenced by new
perspectives on our planet (from
microscopic imagery to satellite
photography) and this new empathy is
manifesting itself in a number of
interesting ways.
US design studio 1924, which creates
work for high-profile brands such as
Puma, has a back-to-nature approach
for its branding, creating typography and
logos based on landscapes and local
crafts throughout rural America, using
only natural materials (lead, ink and
paper) in all its illustrations. The studio's
online journal also celebrates this
approach, with rich nature photography
and stories that appeal not just to
potential clients, but to the wider public.

The wider public is also creating its own

dialogues with nature. Throughout the
Australian city of Melbourne, 70,000 trees
have been receiving love letters from
across the globe. The email address and
tree identification numbers were
originally intended for citizens to report
tree vandalism or safety issues, but grew
into a fan-mail movement. Since 2013, the
trees have received more than 3,000
emails, coming from as far afield
as Russia, the US and Hong Kong.
Another example of our increasingly
empathetic relationship with the planet is
the docu-series Nature Is Speaking,
which features celebrities such as Kevin
Spacey, Robert Redford and Julia Roberts
speaking from the perspective of nature.
The stunning vignettes include stories
from various landscapes and encourage
viewers to open a dialogue with nature
through a global social-media campaign.

Conservation International

Urban Forest Visual

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

CONSUMER

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SE L F R E L IANC E
If the power grid ever failedmany of us
would be unable to write and send a
letter, to fix even the simplest machine,
to multiply two large numbers or even to
tell the time of day, says Dr Robert
Epstein, The American Institute for
Behavioral Research and Technology.

Classes such as sun and solar-system

navigation are a growing activity at
outdoor festivals including Summer Camp
in Illinois, Camp Bisco in
Pennsylvania and California Brazil Camp,
which mix music with field-day games
and activities for adults.

Connected devices enrich our lives but

there are risk factors associated with
technological dependency. One is 'digital
amnesia' (being ready to forget important
information in the belief that it can be
immediately retrieved from a digital
device) in the event of a technology
failure. Simple tasks such as navigating a
city (a recent study found that 67% of
under-25s in the UK couldnt read a map)
and remembering a phone number are
becoming obsolete.

Cultural institutions are going rural too.

The Messner Mountain Museum explores
the history of self-reliance at six remote
locations, educating visitors on mountain
mythology and mans encounter with the
environment.

To combat this growing dependency on

technology, a self-reliance movement is
afoot. In the US, modern home
economics classes are being taught,
covering sewing and outdoor survival
skills, and in Brazil, woodworking classes
are popping up.

Messner Mountain Museum

In an increasingly mobile world,

technology is also looking to nature.
Artist Ramon Marcs IMTI device works
like digital kindling, charging a small
battery for mobile devices through kinetic
energy. Though not as beautifully
designed, Ampy also uses kinetic motion
to charge smartphones and wearables,
via activities such as riding a bike,
walking to a meeting or dancing.

Hip Camp

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Ramon Marc

CONSUMER

SC IE NC E IS C O O L
Times are changing. Harvard Business
Review has referred to the profession of
data scientist as 'the sexiest job of the
21st century', reinforcing the idea that
science is cool, especially for young
adults.
A life-long connection with technology
has given Generation Z different values
from previous generations,
with intelligence prized highly. Team
sports are on the decline for US children
(2.6 million children have left group
sports since 2013) while after-school
STEM (science, technology, engineering
and maths) programmes are increasing
yearly. STEM is also a growing priority for
Brazil the country is funding a $2bn
Science Without Borders programme,
which sent 100,000 students to
international institutions in 2015.
For China, STEM education is a national
priority and largely credited for the
economic boost. From 2003 to 2012,
Chinas tech manufacturing market
increased fivefold and the country has

EARTHED A/W 17/18

almost tripled its number [of researchers

and science and engineering
workers] since the mid-1990s, according
to a report to America's National Science
Board.
As the importance of science and
technology permeates our lives, geekchic also emerges among youth
influencers. Garage/punk band The Bots,
for example, often sport 'science is cool'
shirts and share science facts on social
media. Youth metal band Unlocking the
Truth has a similar message that its okay
to be smart, and cooler to carry an
education than a handgun.

ozonedesignlifestyle.com

Unlocking the Truth

Indeed, social media in general is gaining

science influencers. The I F**king Love
Science Facebook page has 22 million
followers, and National Geographic has
32 million followers on Instagram. Other
science influencers active across social
media include AsapScience,
StationCDRKelly and WOWscience.

Science is Cool

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

CONSUMER

EARTHED A/W 17/18

F IE L D TO F O R M
Farm-to-table is likely to transform to
farm-to-fitting-room by 2018. The Salon
Rice Project is creating delicious
fashion by joining local farmers in
Kawaba, Japan to plant rice fields. The
fashion retailer will sell the rice, as well as
food, tableware and apparel made from
the rice in-store. The company hopes to
plant other agriculture crops for future
projects.
For womenswear brand Alabama Chanin,
the crop of choice is cotton, handpicked
from a farm behind The Factory a hybrid
cafe, apparel manufacturing studio and
maker space located in Alabama. Owner
and designer Sue Hanback says the field
to form design process is the future of
sustainability, ethical sourcing and job
creation in the fashion industry.
Natural ingredients and sourcing are an
increasing concern in beauty and
grooming products too. According to a
2015 study by Kline, the natural personal
care market has seen double-digit growth
every year for the past six years and has
an estimated market worth of $33bn,

which is projected to hit $50bn by 2019.

Brazil is leading the natural product
revolution eight in 10 Brazilians
purchase product with only natural
ingredients while in the US and the UK,
self-sourced natural ingredients are a
rising lifestyle trend. SONAR found that
60% of US and 46% of UK millennials use
organic food products to make
homemade beauty treatments because
they believe that self-sourced
ingredients are more natural than the
products in stores.
Emerging beauty brands appealing to the
consumer need for ingredient
transparency include Kypris, which hosts
events where shoppers can pick their
own ingredients to create a custom
product; Yuli, a skincare line that grows
ingredients safe enough to eat on
company farms; and Farmaesthetics,
which lists the US farm suppliers of the
certified organic herbs, flowers, oils and
grains used in its products.

Alabama Chanin

YLI

Salon Rice

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

CREATIVE

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INTE R -W IL D
In 2018, we will seek a connection with
the planet on a deeper level. In the Eyes
of the Animals, a new virtual-reality
video, points to this growing fascination.
It plunges viewers into the heart of
Grizedale Forest in northwest England,
where they can see the woodland
through the eyes of animals, and shows
that when used sensitively, technology
can sit side-by-side with nature, and
foster a closer connection with it.
Thomas Thwaites, a conceptual designer
from London, is also focused on a
closer relationship with nature. His
project The Goat Life examines what it
might be like to be a goat. Using
prosthetic limbs so he could walk on all
fours, he spent three days living as a
goat to study the animal's behavior. The
work is an attempt to detach from the
complications of being human,
and exploring what it is like to live life as
a non-human creature on earth.

Measuring wind and humidity as well as

seismic activity, the movement of these
sensors reflects the conditions occurring
naturally outside, bringing the outdoors
into our homes.
Likewise, The Horticultural Spa a
temporary installation in London saw an
aroma DJ pump the space full of clouds of
fragrant fog, produced by adding plant
extracts to water. Slipping into the misty
interior, visitors could bathe collectively
in the natural atmosphere.

In the Eyes of the Animals

Haeckels

Norwegian design firm Kneip keeps us in

contact with nature through atmospheric
sensors that respond to the weather.
Thomas Thwaites

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Kneip

CREATIVE

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G R O W ING DE SIG N
Nature is becoming a recognised part of
the design process. Objects are
increasingly grown rather than made, and
bacteria emerges in a new and positive
light. For example, Interspecifics the
nomadic collective from New Mexico
incorporates bacterial culture into its
work. Its making music from bacteria and
mould, translating micro-organism and
bio-electrical activity into sound.

Also on the subject of growing design is

YunTing Lin, who has developed a new
sustainable material using bacteriaproduced nanocellulose. A replacement
for MDF and moulded plastics, it is 100%
recyclable and biodegradable plus its
highly malleable, as illustrated with these
Bluetooth speakers.

Zimbabwe-born Natsai Audrey Chieza is

also working with naturally occurring
bacteria. She is a bio-artist, who has
created a collection of textiles using dyes
that come from bacteria. Adopting new
biotechnologies, her work represents an
emerging craft that works hand in hand
with nature.

Interspecifics

YunTing Lin

Ashley Eliza Williams evokes bacteria and

plant life through paint, creating biomorphic shapes where moss blossoms
and lichen come to life. Her work offers a
reminder of the small, often overlooked
ecosystems growing in the natural world.

Ashley Eliza Williams

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Natsai Audrey Chieza

CREATIVE

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INDUSTR IAL NATUR AL S

Designers are transforming waste into
materials that look and feel natural.
London-based Ariane Prin, for example,
explores the potential of industrial waste,
collecting the dust that key-cutters
produce in their shops and mixing it with
plaster and Jesmonite to create a
handmade homewares collection titled
Rust. Thanks to the metal oxidisation,
each piece has a unique surface, which
means natures hand also has a role to
play in the design process.

which was once used to extract tar to

make pitch, the project reconfigures this
natural material using an industrial
process to create a black resin, like an
abstraction of the tree, which is then
combined with wood to make new
products.

Thomas Vailly

Studio Swine has used plastic trawled

from the oceans to create a five-piece
collection, with each piece presenting
one of the Earths major garbage gyres.
This particular piece represents the
South Pacific, and demonstrates how
post-consumer waste can be reused to
mimic the patterns of natural
tortoiseshell.
Conversely, Reconfiguration of a Tree is a
research project by Thomas Vailly that
flips the process of industrial production
on its head. Focusing on maritime pine,

Ariane Prin

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Studio Swine

CREATIVE

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C HR O MA
Playing with the nature of colour will be
important for design in 2018, as we look
to immerse ourselves ground ourselves
in its various forms.
English photographer Dan Tobin Smiths
work highlights the captivating potential
of colour. He creates an atmospheric
space where powder permeates the
room and lingers like a physical
presence. Ann Veronica Janssens also
explores colour as a physical entity. At
London's Wellcome Collection, she
enveloped the gallery in colour,
encouraging visitors to wade through the
multi-hued mist, to ponder and play with
the material nature of colour.
Colombian designer Laura Daza works
with the origins of colour, developing it
from natural resources and exploring it as
a raw material. Her project and book,
Burnt Sienna, examines the colourmaking technique whereby yellow ochre
is heated up to create various shades of
red, orange and brown.

At the more artificial end of the scale,

technology is transforming our
conceptions of nature through the
intensified digital colours used to
communicate satellite data. These
augmented hues transmit in vibrant detail
the environmental status of the planet,
including sea and carbon-monoxide
levels.

Gregory Asner

Ann Veronica Janssens

Laura Daza

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Dan Tobin Smith

STYLE

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C R AF TE D BY
NATUR E
The untamed nature of the forest provides
material and inspiration for texture-led design.
Earth, stone and bark influence threedimensional surfaces and constructions that are
nevertheless softer to the touch. An unkempt,
organic material rawness underpins a feeling of
connectedness with nature. Within the
wilderness there is warmth and wellbeing,
with irregular patterns and forms offering an
appealing tactility.
Missoni

Hilda Hellstrm

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Sophie Mayanne

Granby Workshop

STYLE

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NE W
C O UNTR Y
Familiar, classic country heritage looks are given
a new design approach with a modern mix of
volume and proportion. Unexpected material
usage brings a fresh hybrid take on this
traditional, lifestyle-led aesthetic. While having a
contemporary outlook, fabrics lean towards their
heritage roots as quality and comfort play a key
role. Shapes are slightly oversized, and the
overall effect is relaxed, with a sophisticated,
languid charm.

Tnu Tunnel

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Hillary Fayle

Sara Cimino

Paul Bellaart

STYLE

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MO DE R N
R UG G E D
The great outdoors meets the comfort of
country pursuits. Items are built to last and
require tough, strong materials and
construction, combining the world of technical
sportswear with an urban edge. A focus on
outerwear and large pieces in particular blends
old and new, traditional and tough. Materials
play a key role, merging the raw and the refined
for a sophisticated quality.

Jonas Edvard

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

Christina Mackie

Andreas Sjodin

Bruno Staub

EARTHED A/W 17/18

RESEARCH & REFERENCES

CON SUMER
Urban Forest Visual

Decline of youth sports

Nature is Speaking

The Bots

Technological dependence

Futures of organic beauty

Digital amnesia

Brazil beauty

Sat-nav reliance

Salon Rice

MEDI A & TECH N OLOG Y

Forest Megaphones

Nanocellulose fibreboard

European Space Agency

Messner Mountain Museum

Faber Futures

Daily Overview

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

EARTHED A/W 17/18

RESEARCH & REFERENCES

A R T & MUSI C
In the Eyes of the Animals, Marshmallow Laser
Feast
Studio Kneip
Reconfiguration of a Tree, Thomas Vailly
Burnt Sienna, Laura Daza
Yellowbluepink, Ann Veronica Janssens

Erosional Remnants, Hilda Hellstrom

Filters, Christina Mackie
Golden Record, NASA
Ecologies, JG Biberkopf
Interspecifics, Non-Human Rhythms
The Goat Life, Thomas Thwaites

The Horticultural Spa, Loop PH

FA SH I ON & DE SI G N
Gyrecraft, Studio Swine

Granby Workshop

Rust, Ariane Prin

Country Strong for Vogue, Paul Bellaart

Powder Issue, Dan Tobin Smith

Leaf, Hilary Fayle

Terroir, Jonas Edvard

Prada, Sara Cimino

Ahead of the Pack, Bruno Staub

Thomas Vailly

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

THE VISION VIDEOS

A/W 17/18

T HE GREAT RESET

D ESIGN MATTERS

N OC TURNE
Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

E ARTHED

INFUSION

FUTURE TRENDS CRITICAL PATH A/W 17/18

T he Vision

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*Date ranges are subject to change

To help with your A/W 17/18 planning, we are mapping WGSNs four Vision trends across six key seasonal drops. This provides clear insight into which Vision
trend is be most relevant for which part of the season, so you can plan your product development more effectively.

Future Trends > A/W 17/18 > The Vision

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