Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
Featured Artists
2D Concepting
Benjamin Last
3D Environment
Paul Pepera
Marvelous Designer
Alien Isolation Art
Destiny FX Art
Dragon Age Art
2.5D Environments
3D Concept Art
Houdini Pipeline
Indie Tips & Tricks
VERTEX
Ryan Hawkins is greatly involved in the game-art community. Previously know as Aftermath,
Ryan was an Administrator at Game-Artisans.org as well as a key contributor and co-organizer of world-renowned contests such as Dominance War, Unearthly Challenge, and Comicon
Challenge.
His passion to contribute to the game-art community is unparalleled as he is always looking
for ways to give artists more exposure as well as giving them opportunities to prove themselves and improve their skill sets.
Consequently, he was invited to join the Polycount.com team to assist in helping develop and
improve the contests and challenges for Polycount. Also, he was heavily involved with the
BRAWL and Darksiders II contests.
On top of all of this, he has spent years investing his own time and effort into developing the
Vertex books, with the assistance of a cavalcade of talented artists and game-art veterans,
to bring you one of the most comprehensive resources that belongs in every game-artists
library.
We hope that you find VERTEX 3 to be enjoyable! VERTEX 3 is, by far, one of our more variety
packed volumes. Each year it is a challenge to try and out due the last book. Please let your
friends, families, and co-workers know that all of the VERTEX books are still very relevant in
our industry and should be shared to help our industry grow!
Special Thanks to Derek Thor Burris for helping out with the early text edits of the book!!
VERTEX
Table of Contents
04
TABLE OF
CONTENTS
Going Indie
Going from AAA to being an Indie Developer By: Joseph Mirabello
Creating Wings
Low Poly Wings from concept to final By: Thiago Vidotto
World
Interaction FX
FX techniques used on Destiny By: Ali Mayyasi
Pattern Drafting
Using ZBrush to Create Patterns for Marvelous Designer By: Andrei Cristea
Mountain Lodge
PAGE08
PAGE20
PAGE34
PAGE42
PAGE50
PAGE66
About leading the environment department for Risen 3 by: Sascha Henrichs
PAGE74
PAGE86
Hard Surface
Regular to Lead
Sci-Fi Corridor
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PAGE100
Table of Contents
05
Marvelous Designer
2.5D
TEXTURING
Texturing using a Fixed Camera Perspective by: Matt McDaid
Booleans
Hard Surface Boolean Workflow by: Hunter Rosenberg
THE RAIDER
Creating The Raider Image by: Steven Stahlberg
Silhouette Modelling
Back to the Basics of Character Modeling by: Steffen Unger
Voxel
House
Breaking Down the Voxel House Demo by: Oskar Stlberg
Matte Painting
PAGE108
PAGE122
PAGE132
PAGE148
PAGE162
PAGE170
PAGE178
PAGE198
PAGE220
PAGE234
PAGE246
PAGE266
PAGE274
PAGE282
Storytelling
Challenge
Set Dressing
Iron Bull
Dragon Age Inquisition character art by : Patrik Karlsson
Concept Illustration
Introduction to a Concept Illustration Workflow : Benjamin Last
Content is King
PAGE288
PAGE302
PAGE310
PAGE316
PAGE324
Photogrammetry
Making of Atom-Eater
VERTEX
Christoph Schindelar
www.artstation.com/artist/chris-3d
G liulian
www.artstation.com/artist/gliulian
Going Indie
Going Indie
Over two years ago I formed Terrible Posture Games and in March of 2014 I launched my first project as an indie developer, a bullet-hell, rogue-lite, first-person-shooter called Tower of Guns. It was well received, being called absolutely
endearing by Rock, Paper, Shotgun, and a surprisingly addictive...beautiful marriage of two genres by Destructoid.
It recieved a 77% with Metacritic, was featured by a bunch of popular Youtubers and twitch streamers, was part of a
major Humble Indie Bundle, and was eventually was ported to Mac, Linux, and consoles.
Looking at it objectively, Tower of Guns was a small project, but still took two years to build. More precisely, it took
3850 hours to get the game to launch (I track my time pretty obsessively). Id spent years in triple-A as an artist and a
tech artist, and while I had a good grasp of the tools and technology I was not nearly as equipped as I should have been
in order to build a full game, let alone start a company. After all, making a game is only a single component of actually
making a game. A great deal of time needs to be spent on business development and promotional tasks. Given that the
tools are increasingly becoming democratized, many a Vertex reader might find themselves tempted by the indie road
so consider this a brief primer on a handful of things you might not have considered, intrepid future-indie-developer!
Starting a company is more than just getting together with a few friends and jamming on a game idea. Before you ever
try and sell the game, its wise to incorporate. Terrible Posture Games started its life as a sole-proprietorship, which is
about the simplest form of official you can get, but really is only good for getting a P.O. Box and sounding professional
in front of relatives. In order to properly handle taxes and to have some liability assurances, an LLC (which is what Terrible Posture Games is now) or an S-Corp is what youll need depending on the circumstances. In fact some partners and
publishers, like Steam/Valve along with the major console manufacturers, actually require incorporation. They simply
dont want to work with individuals.
The paperwork for filing for an LLC isnt terribly complex for a single-person company like Terrible Posture Games, but
things get increasingly complicated depending on the country, state and the number of people involved. Preparing
Articles of Organization, handling state fees, terms of employment and termination, ownership details... a good lawyer
or tax consultants experience in those matters can save you endless headaches later.
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Going Indie
Lawyers and accountants, despite their reputations, are both worth the money. Did you know you may be able to deduct percentages of your utility bills if you work from home? Or that some purchases can have portions of their value
deducted multiple years in a row? Do you know what a 1096 is and when you need to file it? Do you know how much
of your earnings you can set aside for retirement annually? Do you know what to do if you are being audited? Find a
knowledgeable accountant and youll not only save money but youll also have the peace of mind that the tricky redtape parts of running a company are handled properly.
Lawyers are trickier. A good lawyers worth is hidden within the negotiations of contracts and in the advice they give
you but it can make the difference between being successful and being taken advantage of. Experienced game/entertainment lawyers are not cheap (youre looking at several hundred USD an hour), but indie development has become
a full industry in and of itself and with that comes people who make a killing preying on uninformed indies. A good
lawyer can help you navigate this rather depressing minefield of exploitation and leverage.
Fortunately, you dont need to consult a lawyer and an accountant on everything. The more contracts you look at and
the more you learn, the more youll spot problems early. Your eyes get accustomed to hunting for unusual periods of
exclusivity, parity clauses, odd dispute locations, and extraneous rights. It doesnt mean you dont need that lawyers
number, but it does mean you can save your money if things seem suspicious right off the bat.
With Tower of Guns, I was in a very fortunate situation. My wife and I had been living well below our means and had
been saving up for a long time with the idea of me someday trying the indie life. Then the company Id been working
for (38 Studios) imploded. I thought about running a Kickstarter for further funds and was approached by several
other crowd sourcing platforms who wanted me to adopt their platform. I was also approached by several publishers who were interested in giving me money to complete Tower of Guns. In the end my wife and I did the math and
decided to we could get by on our savings and her income for the projects duration rather than divide the games
revenue. I might not make that same decision today, given todays indie climate, but I stand by it as being a wise decision back in 2012.
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Going Indie
10
Kickstarters were, once upon a time, a great way to get press attention which would lead to traffic and ultimately funding. Nowadays it takes a certain kind of game to gain the press eye and, not surprisingly, it seems that theres much
smaller chance of success on Kickstarter. A special project with modest goals can still successfully find revenue via
crowdfunding, but its a very saturated landscape where success often requires a large chunk of the project be visually
complete long before launching a Kickstarter which can be counter intuitive for a crowd-sourcing campaign. A well-run
Kickstarter campaign takes frequent updates, a lot of commitment, and some really strong tiered incentives that take
time to fulfill. If youd focused on development rather than a Kickstarter, how much more work could your team have
gotten done? Would that work have convinced a publisher to fund you instead?
The publisher situation is an interesting one. When I first started Tower of Guns, several publishers were interested in
talking with me. I could have arguably made a better game with publisher money and gotten it into more hands, but I
did not feel like I knew enough to run a larger studio properly (yet). Additionally, I wasnt sure if I needed a publisher.
Some publishers will help you sell your game. Theyll help you get it onto Steam or onto the consoles and help you
promote the game. Theyll pay for devkits or help you pass console certification requirements or help you show at
tradeshows. This is all true, but in the last couple of years, Steam has expressed a strong preference toward indie developers using their Greenlight system, self-publishing, and they encourage indie developers to retain as large a share
of their own profits as possible. That makes sense since a publisher might take 30%, which after Steams similar cut
leaves you, the developer, with very, very little. Given Valves stated goals of making Steam even more open, it seems
reasonable that theyll continue to promote indies self-publishing.
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Going Indie
11
And thats why I think publishers have a second life in them. As development tools become more democratized, and
as the indie circle grows, the hurdles wont be about getting your game on Steam anymore. Theyll be about getting
your game in front of Youtubers like Total Biscuit. It wont be about publishing, but about managing SKUs across nine
different platforms, across multiple consoles, across multiple countries. Publishers, I suspect, will be focused on making your game make a splash, rather than being a drop in the bucket. Im not certain if the dollar value theyll ask for
is worth it, but given the direction of todays climate Ill be very curious to see what publishers can offer in the coming
years.
After youve got your company set up, and after youve paid for and built your game, you still have to convince people
to buy it. This is not insignificant workand its work that ramps up dramatically as the project nears completion. For
Tower of Guns about 40% of my time was spent on these sorts of tasks in the last few months of development when
the game needed the most crucial attention. During the course of the projects entire development cycle, about 25%
of my time was spent on these sorts of tasks.
Lets say you made your game. Its complete, looks good, and youre ready to sell it. Congrats! Unfortunately, its highly
unlikely youll be able to sell your game successfully with just a widget on your website, the way Minecraft did seven
years ago. You still CAN sell that way, and its certainly better than nothing, but the most realistic way to sustain a team
of developers is to get your game on a few of the bigger platforms (aka storefronts).
Getting your game onto platforms can be tricky. Some platforms, like Desura and itch.io, allow you to add your game
yourself with varying levels of approval gating. Others are more curated, like GoG.com and the Humble Store. There
you need to submit your game and hope they like you. More platforms will only add you if youre already on another
platform, or only by referral, or only by them approaching you, or only by community vote (such as with Steams
Greenlight system, which may very well be retired by the time you read this as seems like its on its way out).
But just because you CAN be on a platform, doesnt mean you should put your game there. Theres a good argument
that by having your game on many platforms there are more places that might feature your game. That youll receive
more frequent paychecks from multiple sources, and that the game will be available to larger communities of thousands or millions of gamers. Those are the arguments the platform holders themselves with tell you.
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Going Indie
12
What they dont tell you, and I can mostly only speak of PC platforms here, is that youll have to manage those multiple
income streams, track whether or not those platforms have actually paid you, whether they report their sales honestly,
and that they might only sell a dozen copies... ever. You have to upload and manage patches with multiple vendors,
every one of which has a different process for pushing content. You have to deal with annual tax forms from all these
platforms, have to send them invoices in order to get paid (as is customary when working with EU based companies).
You need to make sure they have a supply of Steam keys if they are selling them and you have to support customers
who picked up the game via that service. And then, you have to worry about price erosion, one platform undercutting
another (which can quickly drive your games worth to nothing) and how many marketing copies a platform can simply give away. Oh, and theyll take 30%, usually.
Fortunately, most of the people Ive worked with for Tower of Guns have been absolutely fantastic. Most platforms
wont try and undercut others (by drastic amounts). But around the holidays, where everyone is offering sales at the
same time, it can get tricky. Knowing you had a good lawyer and that price approvals are in the contracts can help you
sleep easier.
Now that Ive scared you, its worth mentioning all the good things platforms can do for you. It IS worth being on multiple platformsparticularly if they will help you feature the game. Steam might never put your game on the front page
(they never did for Tower of Guns), but some of the other platforms might feature your game prominently (and indeed
did for me). This can drive interest on all other platforms too, since their customer bases tend to overlap, including
Steam. With some platforms however, theres no overlap at all; GoG users for example, tend to be philosophically opposed to the DRM aspects of Steam and are a completely different user base than youd find on Valves service. In the
end it can be absolutely beneficial to be on multiple platforms.
Even if you are on every platform there is people might never pick up your game. The days of the press covering every
Kickstarter, Game Jam Winner, or Indie foray of a former tripple-A developer are long gone but there a tons of ways
to get your game noticed by the press. First, obviously, is making a good game. However there are also trailers you
should make, websites to post to, gamejams and joint promotional events to join in on, streamers and Youtubers to
send your game to, festivals to submit to, the list goes on and on. And, as the indie developer circle grows ever larger,
you can be certain everyone else will be trying all those other tactics toobut not all of them can find ways to make it
to tradeshows.
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Going Indie
13
Tradeshows can be extraordinarily expensive. Some of those large publisher booths you see at E3 likely cost millions
of dollars. Even the smallest space at a popular trade show, a ten foot by ten foot booth, can cost several thousand.
The electrical drop is a few hundred on top of that. And renting large televisions? Well, theres a reason some booths
just buy them and then give them away to conference-goers as raffle prizes at the end of the show--its cheaper! And I
hope you dont need internet access for your game: thatll be another thousand. Then theres carpet rentalnothing
comes for free you know. And insurance. And drayage, if you have anything big. Oh, yeah, then theres travel, lodging,
food, and the actual task of manning the booth. Oh, and the cost of, you know, actually making a concise playable
demo version of your game.
There was a solid argument to be made that, for a long time, trade shows simply werent worth the money or time for
indies. Youd simply get lost amid the much larger booths.
But picture the current indie developer landscape from the perspective of the gaming journalist. Now the indie scene
has grown so mammoth that some journalists get dozens, if not hundreds, of emails a day about various games. They
simply dont have time to sift through a hundred presskit() pages (which, by the way, are pretty important to set up as
its a current standard method of conveying your games info to the press).
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Going Indie
14
Journalists ARE still paid to walk through trade show expo halls though. They need to be there for the big announcements and big games, but theyll wander the indie sections too. Being in the right place when that happens is exactly
how Tower of Guns showed up on Penny Arcade, Destructoid, Joystiq, Kotaku, HardcoreGamer, Rock, Paper, Shotgun
and on a slew of other sites.
And heres a secret: it actually doesnt need to be super costly. There are a lot of great opportunities for indies at tradeshows if you look closely. Showcases, ambassador programs, contests, deals with partners to show in their booth, etc.
For example, I cant speak highly enough of the Indie MEGABOOTHs work. I worked with them for PAX East and they
helped me negotiate rentals, secure sponsors, and figure out paperwork. They hacked away at the otherwise prohibitive costs of showing a game. Its largely to their credit that I was able to have a full booth with four playable stations
of Tower of Guns, a large flat panel HD TV for showing the trailer and mirroring gameplay, and Alienware sponsored
computers, mice, headsets and keyboards. The MEGABOOTH offered tech support, provided me with volunteers to
help run the booth, and even scheduled press to come around and see the game. In the end, I showed Tower of Guns
at five different tradeshowsthat was five opportunities for the press to see the gameand I actually paid very minimal amounts for it (travel, mostly). Of course, I also stayed on friends couches, built signage out of PVC pipe by hand,
shared hotel rooms, volunteered a lot, and did a lot of deal shopping. The point is, you can do these things on a budget.
You dont even have to do a lot of detective work, you just have to keep your eyes open. Oh, and be on Twitter.
Jeff Vogel of Spiderweb Software once said, Twitter is a loaded gun pointed at your career. Thats absolutely true. Ive
seen people become blacklisted, seen entire projects pick up hate campaigns against them, and seen games removed
from Steam entirely. You can destroy an entire teams hard work with a single insensitive tweet taken the wrong way.
This is especially true if youre outspoken or thoughtless. If so, you probably should reconsider being the public face of
your company. But you should still be on Twitter...just dont talk. Listen.
Twitter is more than just people complaining about things. Theres a global conversation going on about indie development on twitter: What are people talking about? Where should you sell your game? What bundling sites are going to
rip you off? When do submissions for certain showcases open? How is Youtube screwing up now? What are the currently hot-button issues to step carefully around? Its also a fantastic way to reach fans, to tell them about promotions
of your game, answer their questions, or simply remind them that the person who made that game they like is a real
person. While having a public identity is a scary part of being an indie developer, its also one of the only advantages
indie developers have over bigger budget titles.
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Going Indie
15
Essentially, much of what Ive been talking about tradeshows, getting your game featured on platforms, interacting
on Twitter is marketing.
Ive never paid a single dime for traditional advertising for Tower of Gunsalthough I might in the future just so I can
learn a little bit about how it works. Instead Ive relied on word of mouth, twitch streamers, YouTube, joint promotional events with other developers, participating on forums, pay-what-you-want bundles, giveaways, joining in charity
events, etc. The simple fact of the matter is that there are many, many, good games out there. No one will have heard
of yours, no matter how good it is, unless you show them why they should give it a try.
When is it done?
Heres a quick way to incur the wrath of the internet: release your game, start working on the next.
The final part to making a game, and one that often goes forgotten, is support. No one makes a perfect game, particularly for PC where there are endless hardware and driver combinations to thwart any rollout. Since launching Tower of
Guns, Ive rolled out at least six bug patches, each with some minor content updates. Ive responded to questions on
the forums diligently and interacted with fans as regularly as I can, and the one thing that comes up repeatedly is the
customers surprise at that support. Its amazing to me that a developer simply answering a question on the forums or
helping someone run the game properly is interpreted as unusual these days. While it IS a large time investment, it is
also appreciated by the customers who perhaps will become repeat customers of future games I make.
But these days, more than ever, releasing the game into the wild is just the first step. For single player games that
road is shorter than for multiplayer games which require constant nurturing to grow. But even a straightforward single
player game like Tower of Guns required bug fixes, price monitoring, sale and bundling schedules, and a forum presence. Given that you wont receive any income from your game for 30-60 days after shipping anyways, depending on
the platform, you certainly should plan on reserving funds to support yourself during any post-launch maintenance.
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Going Indie
16
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Going Indie
17
About Me
Joe Mirabello started out as an game artist working on such games as
Titan Quest, Titan Quest Immortal Throne, and Kingdoms of Amalur (as
well as the occasional side-gig helping out an indie). Along the way he
picked up a lot of technical chops and has worn many, many, many different hats. After the last studio he worked for, 38 Studios, met with a
very catastrophic demise, Joe decided that he wanted to explore working on his own games for a little while. Tower of Guns is his first solo
endeavor.
Joe Mirabello
www.towerofguns.com
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18
Morgan Yon
www.morgan-yon.com
19
Ruan Jia
www.ruanjia.com
Wings
20
Creating Wings
This tutorial is intended to artists who would like to improve their low poly asset production workflow. It will cover
some parts in the making of a low poly model starting from scratch. I will talk briefly about the importance of the
camera view, the size of the model in the screen, how to get the most of your mesh based on the animation and some
common mistakes. For this project I had the limit of 600 hundred triangles and a 512x256 texture for both wings.
Detail density is really important and sometimes it does not receive the deserved attention. If you dont have enough,
your asset may look too simple; but if you go too far, it may look noisy and confusing. A good way to plan it is by considering how your asset is going to be displayed. Things like the camera distance/angle and the actual texture size you
have available to work with.
This project was made for Dota 2, a game that has a top down camera angle most of the time. The character usually
covers less than 10% of the screen, although at times it can be displayed at a closer view. Therefore, it is important to
create details that work on both situations.
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Wings
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Second situation mentioned where you can see the character in a closer view.
For the distant camera it is good to focus
on simple and recognizable shapes, this
can be achieved by value contrast, specular, saturation it is important to keep this
readability inside the game environment
amd in-game tests are necessary during
the production.
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Wings
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Feathers
For the high poly model I tend to use ZBrush and start with its
basic shapes, but the same results can be achieved with other
similar programs. I started the feathers with a sphere, got to
the blade shape using the Move and Trim Dynamic brushes.
I then used the ZRemesher to get a better edge flow (top mesh
on the next image).
Then I used mostly the Slash2 and Clay buildup brushes to create the barbs (for the cuts on the barbs, two strokes with the
Slash2 in opposite directions and an alpha mask were enough).
In some of the feathers I used the MAHcut mech B (http://
mahstudios.com/) with lazymouse on to create the rachis (the
middle part of the feather).
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Wings
References are really important and they help to create a connection with something that player will easily recognize,
but it is even more important to not copy straight from it. As the name suggests, it should be only a reference. The
amount of detail present in those references would be impossible to recreate with this projects limitations.
I like to simplify the reference to its main shapes and then reproduce most of it with volumes in the high poly. They
might look exaggerated in volume when compared to the references but after they are translated to the bakes they
turn out less intense.
When doing a repetitive process, like adding a hundred feathers to the wings, it is really easy to tunnel
vision on the details and ignore the big picture.
This is one of the reasons I sketched the wings on
an intermediary single mesh which helped me to picture the feathers placement and the overall thickness. I also blocked in the main shapes and tested in
game to see if they were visible from afar.
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Wings
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To create the high poly mesh, I used this intermediary mesh (number 1) as a guide and started layering the feathers
over it, replacing the previous volume. For each new feather I made some slight changes on the size, main shape and
barbs. I also considered the adjacent feathers when making the changes to keep a constant flow.
My lowpoly workflow looks a little strange to people used to a straight forward process in which you have a defined
order to work and animations are the last one to be done. I work more like I am prototyping the asset and I keep jumping from one stage to the other, trying to work everything in parallel and using placeholders whenever needed. I try to
let the project dictates what is the most important to be worked on.
For this project I was worried about the effect the animations would have. I was expecting a lot of mesh and texture
deformation, so I decided to jump to the animations early and create at least one idle cycle.
So I went in the opposite direction of a regular workflow: I finished the lowpoly only after I had the animations and I
knew all the extreme poses. Sometimes the animation requires different extreme poses than it was planned and that
happened on this project. Animating with an intermediary low poly mesh saved me from wasting a lot of work when I
decided to change its topology. In a more straight forward production I would be wasting all the UVs and texture work
by doing that. Working this way gives me a better picture of the entire project and allows me to spot some problems
before they get bigger. It also allows me to switch between areas whenever I get tired, renewing my motivation.
(if you are not going to animate the mesh, consider sending the mesh to the animator for some feedback before finishing it)
UV Layout
The first rules when talking about seams are usually to hide them and use as few as possible. Ive seen a lot of projects where people use less than 50% of the texture size just because they didnt want to create a new UV island.
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Usually a seam is considered a bad thing that you are forced to use, but avoiding it is not always the best answer. The
seam we are going to discuss was created to allow more resolution on the most important area of the mesh.
I know that excessive number of UV islands can have an impact on performance, but one extra cut may allow a much
better usage of the texture size. What I am trying to say is that a seam is not always a bad thing, it can also be useful.
When you have limited texture space, getting more resolution is extremely important.
I wanted to make the outside of the wings have more resolution and be the biggest possible in the UVs, since it was going to be the the most visible in game; but I was having a hard time achieving that due to the texture being constrained
to a rectangular shape, so I decided to split that island in two parts.
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Wings
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27
Mesh with the texture applied. (300 triangles and 512 x 256 pixels for the texture. Diffuse + Alpha + Specular)
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Wings
28
Diffuse Texture
For the textures I usually try to keep it simple and I use the bakes as a shortcut. They help me block out the texture and
work as a guide for my color masks. I started with a flat grey color, occlusion, the green channel of the bent normals, a
value gradient based on the up axis and a cavity map generated from the normal map.
I wanted to give a metallic effect to the diffuse, so I used NDo and generated a new occlusion and the diffuse from the
normal map; I layered them over my flat gray as multiply and overlay respectively.
Then I painted the values and added some details to help distinguish both styles of the feathers. Using one of the bakes
as a reference makes it a lot easier during the process of masking the flat grays for the values.
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Wings
29
I like to use a lot of mask on my layers as it makes it easier to edit and recognize in Photoshops layer panel.
I made some darker details on the feathers and since I used the same size of the island border explained on the previous topic, I could measure the distance of the details and match the painting on the seam directly in Photoshop.
The colors were mostly flat colors using the same masks I used on the values. They were placed over the values as
color layer bleeding.
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Wings
30
For the specular map I used a similar process where I layered the
occlusion, cavity map and the values with some slight adjustments.
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Wings
31
The alpha was created using as a base a random bake from Xnormal with 0 on edge padding, which gave me the contour from the high poly. I just had to mask the part that I didnt want to be black, painted some extra details on the
bards and it was done.
Conclusion
I just wanted to emphasize how important it is to consider the way your assets are going to appear in game and how
much attention it should attract. It needs to be consistent with the environment and the concept must take in consideration the size on the screen and the angle it will be displayed. This may sound a little obvious, but testing it in game
is extremely necessary and should be done often during the production and not just when it is finished. The project
on a clean canvas works different than when in game, and it is really easy to zoom in on the model and end up adding
tons of detail that get lost on the textures or become noise later.
Also I would like to point out the importance of having some basic knowledge about areas that are not your specialty.
This will make you much more valuable for the team and you will be able to spot and avoid problems on the pipeline
before they get bigger. Try to be flexible and allow yourself to prototype the assets. It is really frustrating when you finish a model and discover that the silhouette is not working on the camera angle, or that you need to redo the lowpoly
because the animations changed. Try to focus on the big picture before really committing to finish the asset and allow
yourself to make mistakes instead of trying to fix something that started wrong.
About Me
I am a brazilian self-taught generalist artist with a passion for games and
for learning new things. Working with games started as a hobby more
than 15 years ago doing maps for Quake, and it took me years to discover that I could make a living doing it. In the mean time, I graduated as
an Architect and Urban planner, and worked with traditional modeling
and animations for television.
I owe a lot of what I know to the Polycount community and will be always grateful.
Thiago Vidotto
w w w . t v i d o t t o . c o m
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Andrei Cristea
www.undoz.com
33
Martin Teichmann
www.martinteichmann.com
World FX
34
World Interaction
FX
Ali Mayyasi
FX techniques used on Destiny By:
In this article, I will talk about the setup and FX techniques used on Destiny for player-world interaction. These FX
were intended to believably ground the players actions in the world, enhancing immersion. As players move around
the environment, their feet kick up dust, leave footsteps, shake foliage, and ripple water. Similarly, grenade bounces,
detonations, supers, and hover vehicles all affect the environment.
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Overview
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World FX
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Virtual Materials
The FX team narrowed down the list of surface materials requiring unique visuals, and ended up with something like
this: Flesh, Sand, Dirt, Snow, Water, as well as a general Default. Flesh was used for players and combatants receiving
melee or bullet hits, both primary interactions in an FPS. Sand was used heavily for lunar regolith and Martian deserts.
Water was used abundantly on Earth and Venus. The Default was used as a catch-all, as well as for any hard surfaces
that didnt need any kick-up, like concrete, rock, or metal.
The other departments generated similar lists, after which we setup data files representing each of the desired materials. Then it was up to the Environment Art team to disseminate these materials throughout the virtual world. As part
of their process, Environment artists create renderable geometry as well as lower-resolution collision geometry. They
then create and assign shaders to the renderable geometry. They tag each shader with an appropriate material from
the established material library. At that point, when the environment asset is placed in the game world, it can be collided with, and its material looked up at runtime.
Player Actions
The Design team defined all the player impacts: walk, land, hover, slide, body fall, grind, melee, bounce, bullet, and
detonate. Programatically, each impact fires a raycast against the virtual world, and knows what environmental geometry it collided with. The geometrys shader is then checked for its previously mentioned material tag. Each action is
configured with a list of material -> Result table, which triggered the result of the detected material.
In the case of player foot impacts, the player rig was given markers on each foot. Each of the players movement animations was tagged with trigger events at the exact frame where each foot contacts the floor. The marker was used as the
source of the above mentioned programatic raycast. Player melee was setup similarly, raycasting out from the players
hand marker at a specific frame of the melee animation.
Desired Responses
Gameplay FX should always complement and enhance the gameplay experience and communicate information like:
Did I take damage? Did I cause damage? What is the damage type? Where did an attack come from? Gameplay FX
also communicates an actions anticipation and follow-through, which is critical in fast-paced action-packed games.
Anticipation and follow-through can also be thought of as charge-up and aftermath. A grenade usually flares-up, gives
a quick short explosion, and leaves lingering dust and settling debris. The color of the explosion typically communicates
the damage type of the grenade. Additionally, lingering scorch marks on the ground also communicates the damage
type of the explosion. Its easy to miss the quick explosion flash in high intensity combat, but these lingering elements
communicate that an action of a certain type just happened here.
FX responses typically involve the following elements: Particles, Lights, Lens Flares, Screen effects, Controller Rumble,
Camera Shake, Decals, Wind Impulses, and Water Ripples
I worked closely with the FX team to build a library of efficient, sharable elements for many of the above responses.
Grenade detonations for example, can have different sizes (small, medium, large, extra-large), and different damage
types (solar, void, arc..)
Particles
We used traditional camera facing billboard particles to fake kick-up dust. We also used particle meshes for kick-up debris. To stay memory efficient, we made heavy use of shader variants to tint the same sand kick-up particles differently
for each planet. For example, Earth and Venus sand particles defaulted to a yellowish color, but they were tinted red
on Mars and white on the Moon. This really helped cut maintenance and memory cost for the sand kick-up content.
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Rocket launcher sand detonation particles. A common core explosion and surface specific kick-up.
Decals
Decals are basically shaders that project on world geometry. For impacts, we dynamically spawn decals positioned at
the point the programatic raycast hit the world collision geometry. Similar to particles, a different shader is used based
on the detected material type. Sand footstep decals were the most complicated to nail, due to sands fluid nature. I had
to put in a lot of texture variety for the decals to look natural. At first I prototyped the different elements as separate
decals stacked up. I used a main depression element, a displacement element, and small kick-up elements. Once I was
happy with the look, I baked down the layers into a small set of variants in order to reduce the texture memory cost on
the GPU as well as the rendering overdraw. We also used parallax occlusion mapping to fake depth. Bullet and detonation decals were typically comprised of a common shared scorch element, and a damage-type specific glow element.
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Wind Impulses
On next gen consoles, we used wind particles to shake foliage and grass. Each detonation played invisible wind
particles that were rendered to a separate buffer. These wind particles were horizontally aligned and encoded a two
dimensional wind direction (X in the red channel and Y in the green channel). This wind buffer was sampled by foliage
geometry to affect their vertex shader, pushing them out of the way. Each foliage mesh had stiffness painted into it as
vertex color, effectively weighting how much wind each vertex can receive, resulting in realistic bending of the upper
leaf elements while the base stayed grounded.
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Water Ripples
Similarly, next gen consoles benefited from special ripple particles. These ripple particles that were invisible, horizontally aligned, and rendered to a dedicated buffer. They encode ripple frequency and displacement amplitude. The
ripple buffer is sampled by water shader each frame, so the water always ripples and distorts with the different impulses. Additionally when characters run through the water, we spawn v-shaped ripple particles that orient along the
characters velocity, creating nice v-shaped water wake.
Conclusion
As a technical artist, I had to coordinate this effort across multiple departments, implement all the data setup for each
action, and maintain all the material-to-interaction mappings for each interaction. Ultimately, interactive impact functionality involved the collaboration of many departments:
About Me
Ali Mayyasi
w w w. ps i o n i c p i xe l s . co m
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Brian Sum
www.briansum.com
41
Rasmus Berggreen
www.rasberg.blogspot.com
Pattern Drafting
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Pattern Drafting
Using ZBrush to Create Patterns for Marvelous Designer By: Andrei Cristea
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The Blockout
The following steps can be reproduced in any 3D modeling package. I personally prefer using ZBrush since it has all
the tools I need to generate a quick blockout model without worrying about topology, and a good UV unwrapping
tool that supports large polycounts. I usually start by masking out the area of the garment from my body mesh, and
extract it to a Dynamesh Subtool. When converting the model to Dynamesh I have to keep the tessellation high
enough to allow marking and cutting out the seams. Afterwards, I start modeling the apparel. In the beginning I use
the Move and Trim brushes to cut away the extremities of the mesh and then I switch to the Clay, Move, Inflate, Pinch
and Smooth brushes to build out the main shapes. My main focus is on the general volume and the primary forms. At
the same time I have to make sure that my model fits well on my reference body mesh, and the design looks similar
to my concept art. As a final touch I give a slight hint of the seam placement so I can easily trace them in the following
stage. I dont spend any time figuring out the details since I am not going to reuse this model again.
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The Cut
After finishing the blockout, I have to prepare the model for unwrapping. The problem I found with UV Master is that
its seam painting algorithm doesnt separate the mesh where it doesnt consider it necessary. For this reason I have to
cut out the model manually to brute force it. I start by painting out the seams onto my model (1), and then I generate
Polygroups from Polypaint (2). Afterwards I hide the Polygroups of the marked seams and any other parts that I dont
need (ex. the end of the sleeves, or the collar if the geometry is capped), and delete the hidden geometry (3) . At the
end of this stage my model is single sided, composed only by individual panels, and ready for UV mapping.
The Pattern
If everything was done right in the previous stages, then all thats left to do is to unwrap the model using UV Master
and save the Flattened UV layout. All the preparation work was done for this image. The initial flattened output from
ZBrush can be hard to read, so I take an extra step in Photoshop to rearrange the pattern and make it easier to reference in Marvelous Designer. As long as I didnt resize the individual islands I should be fine.
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The Fitting
Now that I have my custom base pattern drafted, I import the layout image into Marvelous Designer and trace each
section of the garment. Minor shape adjustments are needed to obtain a better fit, but from here on I have a solid
foundation to work on and flesh out my design. I try not to lose myself in details and focus on the big areas. To be
able to make quick adjustments without slowing down the simulation I keep my patterns as simple as possible with
as little or no layering. I always save a copy of this stage in case I over-complicate my design and I have to start over
with a new approach.
Once my base fitting is done, I start working towards my final design. In this particular example I split up the upper
sleeves, layered the shoulder areas, and created a couple of interior seams to obtain a more interesting fold pattern. I
only create details like piping, stitches, zippers, buttons, and buckles when I need them to affect the fabric simulation
in one way or another. In most cases these are placeholders that I rebuild in the final ZBrush pass.
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The Export
Before jumping back to ZBrush, I like to run a few simulations with different fabric settings, layering setups
and fittings. By doing so, once I am in ZBrush I have the
option to mix between different areas of the simulation
to achieve something that is more eye pleasing. This
is done by storing projections in Morph Targets and
blending between them. Below there is an example of
two raw exports which were used for the final model.
The Retopology
For the retopology stage I prefer to have the imported MD model unwelded and single sided. First, I clone the model
and separate each area group into its own Subtool. Then I use ZRemesher at fairly low settings (1) and Panel Loops to
add thickness to my geometry (2). In the end I Subdivide the model a few times (3) and Project the details back onto
my new topology (4).
The Detailing
Now onto the most enjoyable part of the process. This is where most of the love goes and where you can add a personal touch to the model. In this particular case I tweaked the overall proportions in order to bring the rhythm of the
shapes closer to what I originally intended. Then I remodeled the accessories and the stiffer parts of the garment. Once
I had everything in place, I did a secondary modeling pass to achieve a better distribution of the secondary forms, and
finally, I added a layer of micro details consisting of memory folds, scratches, wear and damage.
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Conclusion
As you can see, the workflow is very simple and could have been summarized into one phrase, but I wanted to give
you a glimpse of the entire process so you can foresee what to expect when using Marvelous Designer, and how much
work is put into every stage. I think that a lot of the frustration comes from expecting a one click solution, but like
anything else, the quality of the final result is relative to the amount time put into it and how carefully you approach
every step of the process. Afterall, its just another tool to add to your arsenal and you are the one deciding when
it makes sense to use it or not. On this particular character I chose to model the rest of the clothing directly inside
ZBrush since I considered it being more time efficient.
About Me
Andrei Cristea
w w w . u n d o z . c o m
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www.artstation.com/artist/vitorugo
49
Caroline Gariba
www.artstation.com/artist/carolinegariba
The Lodge
50
Mountain Lodge
When I was a kid I used to go up to northern Sweden with my family and ski for a week or two. We used to stay in one
of those wooden lodges and I remember I thought there something special about it. I always felt at home in this warm
and cosy house and I wanted to stay there forever. I said to myself that one day I will build my own dream lodge. 15
years later I still dont have enough money to build a lodge like this but with my experience in 3d art I decided that I
could at least build a virtual one and make it into my future dream house.
In this breakdown I will go through how I achieved the final result in my project mountain lodge that was created using the latest version of CryENGINE. Im not going to go into too much detail on the content creation since its a pretty
large project that includes a lot of different workflows, tools and techniques. This breakdown is mainly going to be an
overview on how I was thinking about planning, structure, design, lighting, and final execution. I hope that this article
can inspire and give you some ideas when you start working on a new project.
Getting Started
Since I knew I wanted to create a realistic home, the first thing I did was gather as much relevant reference as possible,
both on mood, lighting, structure and assets. There is always plenty of good reference material and I think its very
important to really take some time trying to find something you like. Houzz.com is a really good website for interior
design and has a lot of good references on buildings and assets. During this stage, my general ideas of what I wanted
to create became much more defined. It helped me figure out which objects I needed to create to achieve the final
result. Once I was done looking for reference I decided I was going to create an interior environment with three main
rooms and an exterior with mountains in the background.
Ive mainly been working on damaged/dirty environments before so I wanted this one to be clean and tidy, like one of
those photographs you see in an IKEA catalogue. I decided to go for a rustic contemporary style. The rustic interiors
often have good variations of materials that I thought would look great with the new PBR in CryENGINE. I wanted the
lodge to be based somewhere in Montana or Canada, where you can find amazing scenery with big mountains next to
a blueish clear lake.
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Since I was going to build this environment in my spare time I didnt really pick a time frame for when it needed to be
finished. I wanted the quality to be as good as possible so I didnt want to rush things just to get it done. I also knew
that I wanted to try new workflows and tools to get better, which makes it even harder to know exactly how long
things are going to take. In this case I was more planning on what I was going to do next, instead of how long it was
going to take. I always find it much easier to get a rough blockout into CryENGINE as soon as possible. Since the engine
lets you drop into game really quick, its much easier to run around and get a sense of scale and proportion in game
instead of looking at the structure in 3ds Max. I tried to get the whitebox as simple as possible but still get the main
features in. This is where I play around with layout to get something that I think will look believable and could work in
reality. This is also the stage when Im trying to get the first lighting pass done which will help when starting to place
assets and tweak materials. Once I had something that I liked I started with the first prop, just to get something in
there at the level of quality I wanted. As you can see the there isnt much difference between the first rough blockout
and the final environment.
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Structure
When creating a complex and big project like this with many assets and materials, I think its very important that you
have a nice folder structure and keep everything nice and tidy. I always try to name and structure my projects files as
if someone else could pick it up by anytime and continue working. From my professional experience this is something
that happens all the time. By this I mean everything from naming folders on your computer, objects in your 3ds Max
scene, layers in your Photoshop file etc. It may take some time to setup everything at first but it will definitely speed up
your workflow when you dont need to spend time trying to find one of your 26 overlay layers in Photoshop.
Creating an environment from scratch also means that you have to pick which assets that want to have in the scene,
turning yourself into an interior designer. I put a lot of effort into choosing which kind of style and design I wanted for
each object by looking at references and first blocking it out. Even though I was creating a realistic environment with
objects that could exists in reality, I still had to make some design decisions that would fit in the scene. If you would just
create an object exactly how it looks in reality you can bump into some issues since the way that you see an environment in a game engine is not the same way that you see reality.
For example sometimes you might have to scale up smaller details, like bolts, studs, and seems, to be a little bit bigger
than normal. If not they would simply disappear and create bad AA once the object is rendered in the engine. Also
you might have to compromise on your design if you want to stay modular, optimize your UV-layout or mirroring your
object to create more variations. All the assets were created by first making a high-poly mesh and then baked all the
information to a low-poly version that was used in CryENGINE. Some of the assets have a few more triangles than
whats normall necessary for a game environment , just because of the detailed close up-shots.
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What I think is great about the rustic style is that its using a lot of different materials and trying to mix them together.
Everything from brass, copper, wood, leather and stone. I thought this will be a great combination for showing off the
PBR technique inside CryENGINE but also create a nice contrast within each object. Since the scene contains a lot of
props it can easily feel noisy and chaotic. Thats something I had in mind when I created the design for each asset. I
tried to make them as clean as possible to avoid an overall noisiness. Even though there is a lot of unique assets in the
scene I try to be as smart as possible by reusing objects, textures and materials. I always had in mind that this would
be an environment that could be used in a game. So I tried to optimize each asset as much as possible.
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I personally think material definition is one of the most important things for an asset to feel realistic. You can create
the most awesome realistic looking high-poly and perfectly baked low-poly but if you dont put some effort into the
texture and material, the object is never going to feel real and believable. After I was happy with the high-poly of an
object, I always tried to render it with materials in Keyshot. Keyshot is an awesome tool if you quickly want to throw
some materials on your object and render it. I exported my highpoly using a Keyshot plugin for 3ds max. Keeping your
objects separate will make it easier to assign materials in Keyshot. I always find it much easier to get a comprehension
of the objects form and design if there are some materials on it. Keyshot has a pretty large library with materials that
you can tweak very easily.
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When I was happy with my result I exported the asset from Keyshot back to 3ds Max. All my materials I assigned are
getting imported into 3ds Max. I created my low poly and rendered the maps with a cage in 3ds max. I then baked
a color map from the assigned materials together with normal map, ambient occlusion and heightmap. By baking a
color map I could make sure the colors are the same as the ones that I assigned In KeyShot.
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HighPoly in KeyShot
LowPoly in CryEngine
I was keen on doing a high poly for all my objects and textures. I know there are plenty of tools to generate a normal
or heightmap from a diffuse, but since this project was a way for me to develop myself I wanted to go with a more
handcrafted workflow.
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When I was creating my tileable textures I tried to tweak them in the engine using a sphere with the final lighting. Having all the materials next to each other made it easier to compare them and to make sure they all fit together. I also
added a sphere with full gloss and spec to see how my cube map looks in reflection. I was using the standard values
for PBR-materials when creating the textures. All textures have an Albedo and Normal map with gloss in the alpha
channel. Since there is often just one specular value for a tileable texture, I could instead set this value in CryENGINE
and save some texture memory and draw calls.
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For some objects in my scene I was using tessellation/displacement map to make them look more organic and realistic. One example is the fireplace stones that are used in some areas of the interior. Instead of creating a mesh with a
lot of triangles to form the shape of the fireplace, I used the baked heightmap from my stone texture to simulate the
tessellation.
The base mesh itself is pretty simple. I added some extra splits in my mesh, trying to keep the faces square, just so the
tessellation would be smooth and even. Its also important that there are no splits in the UVs, that will create some
artifacts in the mesh were the splits are. I also added extra support loops on the edges to get more resolution around
the corners. In CryENGINEs material editor you have options where you can tweak the tessellation. Using tessellation
is of course more expensive than just using a normal map, and it only works in high settings, but as you can see the final
result looked much better than just using a normal map. I also used the same method for some exterior trees and rocks
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To create the landscape terrain I used World Machine. I first sculpted the basic shapes in CryENGINE and then exported the heightmap into World Machine. I simulated some erosions to get a more organic look that is almost impossible
to create manually in the engine. I did some final tweaking in Zbrush before importing the terrain back into CryENGINE
again. I also exported a color map from World Machine that I used as a base layer in CryENGINE when painting out
the terrain materials.
When creating the vegetation I wanted to see how close I could get a realistic look by modelling a highpoly manually,
instead of just using a photo texture with an alpha. By doing it this way I was also getting a better normal map which
plays a big part for vegetation. You want to make sure you have some angle variations in your normal map to get the
vegetation to look more realistic in game.
For the fir branches I started by creating the twigs with the branches tool in 3ds Max. The branch tools lets you create
different shapes really quick using a box as a start. I made a few variations and applied a texture. I also created three
needles with different colors and gradient.
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To paint the needles on the twigs I was using the object painter in 3ds Max. I added the needles to be painted randomly
on the selected twig. In the object painter you can control size, ramp, rotation, distance, etc to be able to achieve
something you like.
I did a few smaller twigs for variation. I created a main branch and did the same procedure as with the needles. but
instead this time I painted the twigs on the main branch. When I had all the twigs roughly in place I started to bend and
rotate them to get some variation.
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I made some more branches and rendered everything down to a plane. Since I had everything setup in 3ds Max I could
tweak the colors and materials to render out a gloss map and translucency map.
With the low poly plane, I separated the branches and then used the twist and bend modifier. I did a few different
sizes of the tree again using the object painter to paint the branches on the trunk.
I was using this method of creating foliage for pretty much for all my vegetation in the scene. Its might be a little bit
time consuming making high polys for your vegetation but the final result often gets better with a proper baked normal map. I was looking at references for the kinds of vegetation that normally grows in this kind of area and created a
library with grass, flowers, bushes and shrubs to get enough variation to make the place look believable.
I placed a few man made assets in the outdoor area to create a few interesting points and also add some contrast into
the vista. I wanted the landscape to feel massive and to be a place that the viewer wants to explore. By adding a road
that disappears in the distance the viewer would be dragged into the scene, making them wonder whats behind the
trees. I wanted to create some depth in my background by having the road in the foreground, the water in the middle
and the mountains in the background. I also added some distance fog using the time of day in CryENGINE to make the
vista feel more believable and for some more depth
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If you been working on a project for endless amount of time, and put a lot of effort in it, I think its important to present
it in a nice way. Its always hard trying to wrap up your project. Is this enough? Can I do more? What will people think?
Etc. Many times I see people that have done awesome stuff but rushed the last presentation just because they are tired
of it or want to get it out as soon as possible. I think if you spend some extra time on the presentation, people will see
that you have put a lot of effort into it and hopefully its going to get more attention. I wanted to show my environment in a nice package with images from CryEngine and video capture to show the environment as a whole. One of
my main goals with the project was to stay consistent in quality. Everything from modelling, lighting, composition and
presentation. I think no matter what your skill level is, if you try to push everything to the same quality, the final result
will be much more solid. I also think that they all depend on each other. If you only focus on one thing, the other stuff
will drag the overall impression down.
Conclusion
I must say I have learned plenty of things during this project. Both when it comes to workflow and what my strengths
and weaknesses are working on an big environment like this. When you work on a project for a longer time I think
its important that you have a lot of patience and stay dedicated to be able to finish it. I was working with the project
on and off on my spare time during last year but it wasnt until the last month that I really pushed to get it finished. I
must admit theres been a couple of times that Ive wanted to throw the project and computer out of the window just
because I was so sick and tired of it. I think a good thing is to break up your project into smaller pieces that will later
come together and become the final environment. If you always look at all the stuff that is left to do, its easy the get
scared and lose interest.
Finally I must say Im really proud of what I managed to achieve. There was a lot of hard work and challenges that has
helped me become a better artist. I also want to take the opportunity to say thanks for all the people that gave me
feedback during the progress. Now I am really looking forward to start something new. If you want to know more details about the project and my workflow, dont hesitate to contact me. Ill happily try to answer all your questions and
share my knowledge.
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About Me
I grew up in a little small village in the deep forest of Sweden. Im currently working at DICE in Stockholm as an environment artist. Ive been
in the industry for about 3 years now and I am enjoying every single day.
I remember when I was younger I got 3 big boxes full with Lego. Since I
didnt get any manuals with it, I had to come up with different layouts
and designs myself. I remember building small islands with houses and
roads, occupying the whole living room floor. When I got older I started
to develop an interest in photography and video editing. At high school
we had an introductory course in 3D and since Ive always had an interest in video games I thought it was really awesome to be able to create
your own ideas on the computer. After getting my degree at the University, I started working at a smaller company as an artist doing mobile
games. Then I got an offer to come to Crytek in the UK and I said Yes
without hesitation.
Im trying to always expand my knowledge in the field by trying different
workflows, learn from people and push myself to do my best. My goal
is to create inspiring environments that people want to explore and remember for a long time. Hopefully I will meet some of you in the future
that share the same passion for making video games.
Joakim Stigsson
w w w. j o a k i m st i g s s o n . s e
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Joshua Wu
www.artstation.com/artist/joshuawu
65
Liz Kirby
www.kirbyhasaportfolio.com
Hard Surface
66
Hard Surface
Every new technique, every trick is critical to getting better. -Shaddy Safadi
This article is primarily intended for those concept artists who are looking for new ways to create their designs. If
you are designing lots of hard surface props and looking to expand your portfolio with 3D work or you are looking to
improve your workflow by adding 3D elements to your art, keep reading. If you are a 3D modeler who is looking to
speed up or even completely change your hard surface modeling pipeline, this article is going to be useful for you as
well. Throughout the text you will find randomly placed protips that can help improve your workflow if you are already
familiar with Fusion . This way you can quickly extract the most valuable technical information from the article, the rest
of it mostly focuses on theory.
Protip: Assign Materials to bodies to help with the design process. Assigning different materials to bodies will help
you change the look of the model which in return will help you improve the visual complexity of the design. The default Visual mode that has shadows and visible edges is helpful but extremely deceptive and will make you think you
have a really complex model when in reality you dont. Get used to changing visual modes and assigning different
materials to train your eye see past the lines.
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weapons, vehicles, various mechanisms and props, etc. and hard surface objects can have organic shapes, for example cars, modern medical equipment, designer furniture and even procedural architecture. Technically the thin line
between organic and hard surface modeling is blurry and is merely a matter of opinion. So hopefully this should give
you an idea whether or not you should give this software a shot.
You can see that most of the shapes were built using t-splines and sketch lines. I find both most useful in model mode
when you are trying to get complex shapes.
How is it really useful for designing concept art, that belongs to a completely different industry ? The latest technological advancements in gaming and the movie industry, mainly the new hardware capabilities have been pushing the
quality and fidelity of designs, demanding highly detailed concept art that would satisfy the ever-hungry eye of the
consumer. Our monitor resolutions also keep increasing, now able to display seemingly infinite amount of detail.
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This is when the regular approach to creating concept models began to deteriorate and artists started looking for ways
of improving their workflow, making it more efficient and adaptive. Fusion 360 is a great solution for the problem. It
offers a fast and intuitive way of combining organic modeling with the precision and incredible amount of detail of
solid modeling exactly because it uses NURBS. Models that come out of Fusion can be ultra detailed and unbelievably
complex while offering small size and extremely fast rendering times ( especially in Keyshot). Not only that but parts
done in Fusion 360 are perfect for creating IMM brushes for Zbrush.
Protip: Hollow out your bodies for 3d printing. Select the target body and find the Shell command in the Modify
menu. It will remove material from the interior of the body creating a cavity inside. You can specify the desired wall
thickness as well.
Not every CG studio has embraced the fact that using 3D software for concept art is a truly revolutionary ( or maybe
evolutionary?) step of fusing 2D and 3D that leads to a more efficient PLM (product lifecycle management). In other
industries CAD and CAM have been tightly integrated into every step of production of a product, while for most games
and movies the concept stages are still done using exclusively Photoshop. Indeed it used to be faster to create a design
and its iterations in 2D programs. But when the industry is demanding higher fidelity and non-draft quality concept
art and we have software like Fusion 360 to produce the said premium quality hard surface concepts within a similar
timeframe I think we need to use it as much as we can.
Because modeling hard surface for concept art in gaming and movies mainly refers to industrial design and man made
objects, it is only natural to use the same modeling tools that are used in real life for engineering and manufacturing
of the same objects. This can be compared to how character artists are using Marvelous Designer ( a software used for
designing and simulating clothes), because it offers a real world approach to design process of clothing, from sketches
to using seams and actual material properties
No Universal Solution
Of course the CG industry is yet to establish a universal approach to designing hard surface parts that will perfectly fit
all workflows. A number of software packages such as Autodesk 3ds Max, Modo and even Zbrush offer great solutions
for that and so does Autodesk Fusion 360, but most 3D artists will prefer polygon modeling to NURBS modeling in Fusion as it best fits the rules dictated by the animation, gaming and movie industry. However no such limitations exist
in the world of concept art. I have chosen Fusion 360 to help me with bringing my concept designs to life because in
my workflow I couldnt care less about the polycounts or UVs when texturing. All I care about is an engaging design
that looks fairly real and hopefully interesting and charismatic.
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Fusion has a powerful set of tools aimed at tasks ranging from sketching to filleting, chamfering and performing
boolean operations. Pretty much anything that can be done during the process of fabrication in real life can be done in
Fusion and even taken beyond that. Things like cutting, chiseling, welding, machining are not a problem. For example
creating a thread on a cylindrical surface is a only a matter of a couple of clicks.
Creating a thread. In model mode, select the Thread tool from the create menu, choose the cylindrical surface you
want to apply it to and set the desired parameters of the thread.
A lot of times, simple things like filleting / chamfering your edges is what makes the difference in the final look of your
prop when your are rendering it. (see below). The cylinder on the left looks like it is not really connected to the block
compared to the cylinder on the right that looks like it has been welded on it. Things like that add to the visual complexity to the design as well as sell the manufactured look.
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Of course the trick for designing cool hard surface props is not only knowing how to use fillets and chamfers or any
other program tools. Great hard surface design starts way before you open a 3D program. When I start a new design I
spend at least a day looking for the references to help me put the idea together, and a lot of time it includes looking for
cutaways of things or simply reading about the subject in order to be able to understand how it works.
Protip: Best way to transfer your model from Fusion to Keyshot. Best way to do this is to export it in .step or .iges
format. After that, when importing it to Keyshot make sure to check the accurate tesselation option and import
NURBS data option. The most important thing is to set the tesselation quality slider as high as possible. The highest
value is 1 and it is what I recommend but depending on the model you may have to adjust it a little. Sometimes high
values of tesselation can break the model.
Once I have a general idea I will start breaking the design in my head into components, thinking of how they fit together and how they work with each other. For example, when you look at rifles you rarely think about what is inside,but
if you do - you study how the mechanism works and it can give you some new ideas on how to alter it to fit into your
design or to make something new. Concept artists are not engineers of course, but we can get as close to the real engineering as possible. This in return will help improve the designs, make them believable (see figure below)
Knowledge of how things work in real life usually inspires the way I design in Fusion. This influences shapes, joints,
necessary cuts and additions.
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This shape of the lower part allows for a 90 degree rotation without limiting the movement or parts touching each
other.
Protip: Converting the project into .obj for import into Zbrush. Save your project as .stl, selecting desired surface
deviation and refinement level ( higher levels will produce more triangles per face) Reopen the .stl file in Meshlab
(free) or any similar software. Preview it to make sure it looks the way you want it then save as obj. This way you
wont have to save each body of the project separately.
Conclusion
About Me
Kirill Chepizhko
w w w. k i r i l l m a d e t h i s . c o m
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Andrei Pervukhin
www.pervandr.deviantart.com
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Edon Guraziu
www.edonguraziu.blogspot.com
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Regular to Lead
About leading the environment department for Risen 3 by: Sascha Henrichs
A brief Summary
I have been into environment art since 1998 and work at Piranha Bytes, a small company in Germany, . The games we
forge here are single player RPGs in a medieval fantasy setting: Gothic 1, 2 and 3 and Risen 1, 2 and 3 plus Addons. I
worked on all of them and saw the whole genre of the 3D open world RPG come to life in this period of time. Since
the very beginning I was an environment artist and did all kinds of level things. From object modeling and texturing
to object placing/staging, lighting, event placing, inventing/concepting of locations, modeling landscapes (yes, in the
early years we modeled every bloody landscape by hand, height maps were introduced in our company with Risen
2), creating Speedtrees and whatnot. Since our company was and is relatively small, we also had a small environment
team. Therefore the tasks were always very diverse and everyone had to carry a lot of responsibility.
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After some successful years in developing - around 2001 or 2002 - I took my first attempt in taking over the lead position of our art department and failed. So why did I fail? To be honest, I simply didnt know how to organize myself, let
alone my team. I didnt create a schedule, I talked too little and buried my head into my own artist tasks like I always
did before. I didnt ask others for help or got external information on what I could do to be more successful as a leader.
I was also not self confident enough to report to the management at eye level. In the end I still recognized myself as a
regular artist. I made my artist stuff, which I was good at, gave some short time goals to others, but had no eye for the
big picture. I had no idea about what to have in mind as a lead. Fortunately though, I was able to see that something
was wrong and although I still didnt know how to improve the situation, I made the early enough decision to quit my
position as a lead. This position was not mine. Not yet.
So, how did it happen, that I went for department lead again? When Risen 2 (in which I wasnt the lead) was in its last
days of content development in autumn 2011, we ran into some serious trouble with one of our game levels - The
ghost island. We recognized a major flaw in the planning. The level was just forgotten. And suddenly we had to finish a
whole level from scratch in 10 working days, having nearly no art to reuse for this level. A level that would have caused
work for over a month for ~3-4 people. New textures, new architecture, some new props, also one new cave. Everyone
in the team was knee deep into some urgent last minute shit and no one really had time for it. So in the end it was up
to 3 of us environment artists to make this level and we were pumped to accept the challenge. Since I was the senior
of this small tag team, it was mandatory for me to do the administrative work and insist on communication. This was
the starting point of getting into leadership again. And this time it felt right. We made a plan for how we could solve
this task in the given amount of time and I created a schedule.
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This is one of the tropical islands Risen 3 featured. Kila was inhabited by pirates along with indios.
Though the stress factor might not be that intense in the first few months, you may be busy getting comfortable with
the project and your department. Its useful to take this time and get an eye for the big picture. How many resources
do you have, and what are the individual skills of these artists. Being aware of your department will help you estimating workloads and identifying risks. Also leave your precious assets and textures for your colleagues and step back.
Become aware of the kind of product are you going to ship and focus on relevant tasks. I can only speak for our open
world game development, so what we did was cut the bigger project locations into sections and discuss their importance and priority. This affects when you work on each section. Then dissect the sectors again and assign the subtasks
to the artists. You know your people and therefore you assign e.g. the architectural modeling to someone who likes it,
or who needs to learn it and the vegetation stuff or whatever to another artist.
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You want to create the best working environment. Besides simple task assigning and discussing project related stuff,
meetings are a perfect tool to deliver trust and respect from lead to artist and vice versa. You get the chance to display your understanding of the project and how you cope with it and your appreciation towards the work of your colleagues. By adressing single artists or small tag teams personally, youll find them being respected and recognized.
Show, that you report to the management on behalf of the whole department. Here and there youll share some non
crucial insider information. A high level of trust is a great way to gain loyalty.
Also make it clear that you will try to shield the department from any possible threat, distraction or sanction from the
management or publisher towards your department. So, e.g. art related feedback from outside will only be forwarded
when you consider it relevant. You are in charge and your ass will be responsible when there are delays, because of
endless art directing iterations. Concerning sanctions, you are also responsible for your department. E.g. if a coworker constantly comes too late to work, it is on your shoulders to get things in line again. Your boss should never
bother your co worker personally. In fact, when your boss approaches your buddy personally it should only be necessary when he failed big time (And this should only happen after your own ass got kicked before).
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A tropical storm on Kila. Unfortunately it was not featured in the final product.
So how did we handle our To-Dos? Schedules are tight most of the time and you need your people to finish on time.
You want your department to be the best performing in the company so you need to be clear on your schedules. When
you hold your meetings for the milestones, discuss every single to-do with your colleagues. Ask them how much time
they need for every single task and write it down. You should be able to estimate, if their suggestions are realistic, if
you are unsure add some extra time if necessary. Be clear that these estimations are mandatory. It also lies in your
hand to help them keep their time table. You will be required to ask about the progress every now and then. Perhaps
make some corrections in the schedule or the priorities when things get out of control. Whatever you do, keep yourself
informed about what your department is working on. Sometimes it will glide out of your hands and situations begin
to stagnate. Whenever this happens something is wrong. It might be missing art direction for the department on a
particular thing, pervasive exhaustion, or missing guidance from the people you report to. Perhaps it is only you who is
exhausted and over your own paralysation the whole department is dragged down. Or you are just uninspired.
Often this happens in the later days of a project. Whenever this happens, it helps a lot to change a thing or two. It is
best to avoid something like this in the first place by throwing in some interesting bits every now and then. This could
be an education friday where you give a hands on lecture to your colleagues. Perhaps on a topic that has nothing to
do with your project. Or go to a pub after work. Establish some kind of department sub-culture, decorate your room
with your colleagues, have some quality time.
We gave our airsoft collection some love with serious christmas decoration stuff!
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You can put together a package of to-dos where two colleagues can simultaneously work together. These small teams
who work on one sub system and who can organize themselves are usually highly performant and well motivated.
Also you can show your appreciation when allowing your colleagues to work their on own designs and ideas for the
project, when they are not colliding with the main schedule.
Every artist regularly gets his ego kicked. And If you have a sensitive one like me, I can tell that it will not be solidified
easily but constantly. You will be hurt and you have to get over it. You want the critique to be reasonable and friendly
when articulated. This is exactly how your fellow artists in your department also want to be treated. You want your
artists to be self confident and motivated. Be fair and friendly with your critique. Also before articulating any premature nonsense about your coworkers art, think twice. Sometimes their ideas are not too different from yours. Dont
give too much critique when not necessary. Ask yourself if your colleague isnt right with their perception, that in this
particular case you think a green sky is better than a red one. When you feel that the situation is more about who is
right and who is not, and not about the sky color, just let off and make a concession.
Outsourcing
You will always have people who are better in scene dressing and some who are better in technical modeling, some
are more sculptors and some are better in making textures. Keep this in mind and use these insights for scheduling
and outsourcing preferences. If you have no dedicated hard surface modeler, you need to arrange more time in the
schedule for that kind of stuff. Its as simple as that. Also try to assign individual matching tasks that satisfy your artists. Not only to make them happy, but also to get better quality through motivated artists.
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It might be a good idea to outsource highly detailed assets and other potentially time consuming stuff. Let the gameplay relevant stuff stay inside the company. Try to outsource big connected chunks of work that are easy to manage
and that do not much depend on gameplay. I.e. You dont want your heightmap needs to be outsourced, it is simply
not practical. Also you do not want to outsource special kind of topics like lava landscape stuff. This is highly bound to
shader tech which typically can only be done on-site.
The last location Skull Island was a challenge. We decided to create unique assets for it, to create a special looking
lava landscape
Especially when outsourcing to bigger companies, plan to have enough time for detailed outsourcing management
tasks. The descriptions of your assignments have to be 100% clear. Big outsourcing companies act differently than your
local freelancer. Communicating with a company might need more time. You also might not get the quality you agreed
on in the first place. Some companies give out top notch test assets to get the contract and then let the intern do the
rest of the assets. Then you have to intervene to get your ducks in line. This is all very time consuming.
When working with asian companies you might recognize language and cultural barriers. Everything has to be explained very detailed in documents and concepts. There might be a different language of art and it might take some
time to get them on track for your project.
The best starting situation for your lead position is to be a regular in this company for quite a bit of time. You will have
plenty of time to observe your companys internal problems, you will learn about deficiencies of the management and
difficult personalities but you can also strengthen your impact and credibility by proactive and high quality work. You
will have a better view on these aspects when not involved in management tasks yourself. The management creed is
a special social caste with special needs. Often they act reasonable and things perfectly work out, because this is what
they do. Make things work. However, sometimes the management also can be faultless and above any criticism. Here
it is not usually helpful to insist stubbornly on your opinion. Do not try to change obviously bad decisions from higher
management levels. Speak out but do not start a fight. Find a workaround. Often this will seriously hurt but you are
working for a higher cause and this will be respected in the long run.
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The Dark Tower on Skull Island was essentially built out of three sculpted stone assets
On the other hand there are situations where you absolutely must not give in. This is when you deal the schedules for
your department. Usually the meetings for the schedules are held at a very early time in the project and then receive
some updates throughout a project. However take your time to write down a most accurate plan of things to do and
lay down a realistic time plan for the whole project. You will always forget some aspects, but these will be fit in later in
the project. Anyway, when the project lead wants a bigger project than your department is capable of delivering, it is
in your hands to veto. No one will save you here but yourself. Make clear that your department has a certain amount
of manpower and that this cannot be stretched to fantastic heights. Do not trade in quality for a content monster,
trade in the high quantity for a good project quality and a sane schedule. Either the project has to be cut down to a
reasonable size or the manpower needs to be increased. When you give in to early, you might have a terrible time all
along the project or you will fail completely, also damaging your credibility.
Remember: Graphics are a BIG selling point. If you deliver poor quality but you managed to hold the impossible deadline, the holding of the impossible deadline wont be the thing that you will be remembered for. The poor
quality will be remembered. So hold a reasonable deadline with the best possible quality.
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Concerning the communication towards the management, it might be helpful to establish some kind of monthly round
up of your department todos, dones and vision, put them in a short email and send them around the companies
mailing lists. This way the management and everybody else in the company is steadily informed about the current
status of the environment department throughout the whole project. Also honestly mention delays along with things
that went surprisingly good. I did this for our project and the feedback was exceptionally positive and also led to a trust
benefit going out from the project management.
Learn to Teach
There are people who like to teach and there are those who dont. Being delighted by teaching seems to be a natural
perk for some people. Either you chose it in your character screen when starting your life, or not. But even when you
like to give advice and teach, there is plenty to learn for you too. Not only in the field you are teaching but also concerning the teaching itself. Giving lectures can help you quite a bit. It might be the way you are explaining, or the way
you are acting. Do you speak too fast, are you boring etc. Whatever it will be, you can improve it by giving lectures
besides your regular job. If you are lucky to live near a town with a school for game development, do not hesitate and
apply as a lecturer there. Most of the time the schools are glad to get teachers that come from the industry itself. In
my time being a lecturer since 2006 I learned a ton about how I appear to people and how I act in front of people. Ask
for feedback on your lectures and also talk to other teachers about the lectures and how to improve. It will also help
you being a mentor to your colleagues at your company.
It might be helpful to monitor your own role in the department. It happens that you let your buddies down because
you are too busy creating content for yourself and forget about your lead position. People who have no lead will go
astray. Their productivity will stagnate and no one will be satisfied. Then its time to leave your assets alone and lead
again. Feel for the different moods that might come up, and think about how could you change the situation by changing your own behaviour.
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To help get the attention, it is useful to drop a bomb from time to time in form of a very cool asset or level design. An
asset that is top notch and that the others can compare to. It is good to have some kind of rivalry going on about who
can make the coolest art. Also its good to be an example of dedication. Spend some extra hours when suitable and
motivate the others. Do not come too late to work, if you do, the others will follow your example faster than you think.
Make clear that you are more interested in the project than in pleasantries, therefore be more of a mentor than a
friend. However, when you look out for new artists, try to find friends for your buddies. I am soft skill focused when
searching for artists, because one psycho can poison the whole departments atmosphere.
Conclusion
And the last paragraph in my mind, I now should come to an end, even
though I could write endlessly on this whole topic. Hopefully this long
read was somehow applicable for you and perhaps gave you an idea.
Feel free to contact me via email.
About Me
Sascha Henrichs is an environment artist, born 1975 in Duisburg, Germany. Since 1998 he has worked at Piranha Bytes and on all published
productions from the company. 2007 he also started lecturing and now
regularly gives lessons in different schools all over germany.
Sascha Henrichs
www.saschahenrichs.blogspot.com
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Sven Juhlin
www.daybreakcg.com
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www.somniostudios.com
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Sci-Fi Corridor
Introduction
For this article, I wanted to create a series of three interior spaces and talk a bit around some design ideas for each one
while using Max and Vray to concept them out. Even though Ill be using Vray to do pre-rendered images of the scenes,
Im hoping that the concepts I talk about can easily translate to any other medium - such as real-time game work. Ultimately the principles of design are the same regardless of implementation - though work for video games does have
the added multiplier of the viewer being able to control the game.
The point of this article isnt to teach you how to model using subdivision surfaces or how to get the best quality render
out of Vray - there are plenty of very well written articles by far more capable people on how to achieve those things
in this fine publication. For this piece, I am more interested in talking about the thought process that goes behind a
work largely independent of tool considerations or technical restraints to get right down to the essence of designing a
sci-fi room. Ultimately, the goal of an artist is to ensure their designs look as if they were not created by an artist but
rather engineered for a purpose.
In science fiction few things are as ubiquitous as the corridor - almost every work of fiction in this genre has one. There
are a few things I specifically wanted to incorporate into these works. One of them is using cloth and soft bodied surfaces as an integral component of the works. In actual spacecraft interior cloth is ubiquitous. In places such as the ISS, the
Soyuz spacecraft, and the no longer existence Mir space station, every nook and cranny of a space was used for storage.
So lets get started. There are already some decision I made before I began. I set the aspect ratio of the compositions
to be 2.35:1 - which corresponds to a common cinematic ratio used in motion pictures. I love composing scenes to this
aspect ratio and when working in a series I tend to prefer to keep all aspect ratios the same. It also creates interesting
design challenges when you are forced to adhere to a consistent aspect ratios.
For this first piece I was inspired mainly by the interiors of a C130 Hercules and C-5 Galaxy. Both aircrafts are large,
cargo planes, with the C130 being extremely versatile. I want to keep things functional and believable. Wherever possible I try to avoid details and elements that are strictly ornamental in scenes like this. Also, have a photo reference up
when designing and always pull inspiration from real life - your designs will be more grounded and believable.
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I knew bags would be a large motif in this scene so I immediately started blocking out the room with them in mind.
I quickly made a proxy bags just to have an element I can play around with in 3ds Max. I also take some elements already modeled from previous projects and drop them in to have more elements to play around with. Things are very
sloppy at this point with meshes colliding into each other, normals smoothing errors, etc. - but that is all fine as I am
only interested in extracting an interesting composition at this point.
Once I get something I find interesting, I start dropping in lights. Throughout the whole process modeling and lighting will be inextricably linked. I constantly do test renders to see how the composition is taking shape as lighting best
informs what is working and what isnt. One thing I wanted to experiment with was disorientation and zero gravity. I
did not want there to be a true up or down in the space but rather have some a M.C. Escher quality to it - with conflicting planes of movement. I wanted ladders to go up to the same point but from different directions as in a zero gravity
space such things are possible and can help create an interesting feeling of disorientation.
To help create an impression of zero gravity, I add a dutch angle to the camera. It also tends to add more dynamism
to the scene by making sure that the vertical parallel lines are not flush with the edges of the frame. Its a relatively
subtle effect that goes a long way to add more interest to the composition while helping reinforce the backstory of
the setting.
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To create the cloth elements in these scenes, I used Marvelous Designer. Its an extremely powerful and versatile cloth
sim originally created for fashion design - you can apply it toward almost any subject matter is soft bodied. You can
make anything from a full character outfit to a duffle bag or beach ball. Apart from the storage bags, I also use Marvelous Designer to create some cloth covering bulkheads - such as the frames around the main door on the left and for
the subsequent scenes in this tutorial.
I only create 3 different bag variants for the scene. To save some time and to increase the mileage of existing assets,
I just rotate them around in the scene to create the impression that they are unique. I imagined the crew of this ship
would store various things in them - food supplies, tools, clothing, etc. Every square inch of the spacecraft would be
maximized for efficiency like in real life.
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One thing I try to avoid incorporating into my designs is the random 45 degree angle. By random, I mean a shape that
is purely ornamental. Every element in a scene should serve some sort of purpose apart from itself; minimize noise
and getting down to the essence of a design by distilling it down to its purest form.
I start to place the bags into the scene - piling them up against the sides of the walls, similar to how such bags would
be stored in my aircraft reference. You can tell already how good reuse of a few assets has a lot of mileage. With such
rapid concepting work, you want to expedite the process wherever you can - as long as the design, the mood, and the
story of scene is communicated then you have done your job as an artist.
Originally, I was planning on putting some sort of storage canisters in the center of the space, but later realized there
was an opportunity to put something more interesting there, so I started to concept out a quick spacecraft idea. Just
like how vehicles are stored inside a C130 Hercules, I imagined that vehicles could also be stored in this space.
When modeling out the hard surface areas, I keep the geometry rather messy. I want to prototype these rooms rather
quickly, so Im not terribly concerned with keeping proper mesh topology. As long as the smoothed result looks fine,
then pretty much anything goes. In a full production environment, such ways of working are probably not as acceptable - especially if animations and deformation is a concern.
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You always want your designs to help reinforce the story and setting of the environment. Since this is a zero-G space,
I wanted the door to be a design that could be operated from two different sides. I put the locking mechanism in the
lower right corner where it could be reached from both access ladders. A large hydraulic arm would life it open and
make room for people to climb up into it from the ladders. I put some warning symbols on it to reinforce the idea that
it is a crush hazard.
In terms of modeling, the scene is quickly approaching completion - I started doing the final material pass on the elements. Orange materials are used to help draw interest to certain points in the composition - mainly the door on the
left and spacecraft. I wanted the spacecraft to be industrial in nature, so I put a very bright color on it along with some
warning stripes for added visibility. I add some text on the bags and door to create some secondary and tertiary detail
reads and to help ground the elements in some sort of functionality.
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The project has entered its final stages at this point. I do last minute adjustments to materials and lighting. I like very
specific points of light sources and I only use a small handful of physical lights in the scene. I let the GI and bounce
lighting extra most of the forms in the scene and only put lights where I want specific attention drawn.
The final render is created in an .EXR format - which is a raw, high dynamic range image format that allows a very wide
range of values. From this format, I generate several different exposures of the final render and composite them in
photoshop. I do some fine color balancing and curve adjustments in photoshop to make sure all the right forms are
extracted and to emphasize certain areas where I want the viewers attention to go.
For the next scene, I wanted to explore a more claustrophobic feeling with a tighter corridor. I got heavily inspired by
the movie Gravity and used screenshots from that film for lighting and modeling reference. I immediately just start
throwing down elements - cylinders, spheres, tubes, etc. I also take some components from other scenes and throw
them in here. An advantage of concepting in 3D is that you can change perspective and field of view very easily. For
this tighter scene I used a wider FOV - around 25 degrees - to help bring in more of the space into the frame and to
make the perspective more dramatic. Im playing around with round shapes - hatches, lids, canisters - to contrast the
mostly square shaped motif of the prior image. I also wanted the scale to be tighter than the previous concept - a
space only a single person would be able to traverse at a time. For the focal point I wanted to have a large, pressure
sealed hatch.
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As with the previous scene I wanted to incorporate cloth into the design. Functionally, I imagined this space would get
rather cramped with storage - movement would be difficult and you would probably bump against things traveling
down this corridor. I figured some of the walls would be padded to protect against injury or concussion in the event
of an emergency with the crew of this ship needing to move quickly. Visually it adds a nice contrast between the hard
surface elements such as the metal frames and doors.
By now, I see something interesting already. I set the main door shape on the right third of the frame to create a better
composition. The ladder on the lower left creates a good diagonal line to draw the attention of the viewer to the focal
point of the door. It also helps reinforce the perspective and scale of the scene by giving an indication of roughly how
large a human would be in this space. I also take some of the bags modeled for the previous scene and drop them in
as placeholders so I can continue to compose the shot.
I take the blockout mesh and start
cutting some shapes into it that
would comprise the cloth sections. Using Marvelous Designer
again, I take the cut outs from the
mesh and recreate them in the
software. Alternatively, I could
have simply used a tessellated
version of the cut out meshes in
MD directly. Once I get a good result in Marvelous Designer, I drop
them back into Max and finesse
the elements. I set my camera angle and aspect ratio so I know the
bounds of the composition and
what perspective is doing to the
scene.
I adjust the composition again to keep the focal point on the right third of the frame. I want a bit more perspective in
the scene to help sell the space and scale so I increase the FOV a bit. At this point, Im pretty happy with the overall
layout of the scene and will be modeling accordingly from this viewpoint. To help speed up the concepting process, I
really only worry about geometry that is visible in the frame.
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At this point the scene is quickly coming together. I start working in some materials and textures - mainly around the
door frame. Narratively, I want to reinforce the doors importance. I put giant red and white warning strips to indicate
that there is a danger present when this door operates since it swings open. Fictionally, I wanted this scene to take
place in a ship that is a joint American-Korean space incitative. To tell some of this backstory, I put bilingual signage
on certain objects to help communicate the idea that the crew probably knows one , if not both, of the languages. Its
always a good idea to add secondary reads like that in a scene, to create interest and depth - and to reward audiences
that take a slightly longer time to view a scene.
Im pretty satisfied with the side walls of the scene so I turn my attention back to the main focal point - the pressure
door. To add a bit more interest to the scene, I make it half open - to partially reveal the adjacent room. Also, to add
some more supporting lines, I make some floating tubes that lead their way into the partially open passage. I got inspired for this particular detail by looking at pictures of the interior of the old Russian MIR space station, which was a
mess of tubes circulating all around.
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Most of the scene is illuminated by the 6 small light fixtures flanking the frame of the door. There is another light source
out of frame, above the door, that adds a blue hue to the scene. As in most of my work, I try to keep my light sources
localized and minimal - letting the bounce lighting in the GI do most of the work. Again, I looked at scenes from the
movie Gravity as inspiration for the lighting and mood.
For the final piece, I wanted to play around with scale a bit more - make something far larger than the previous three
rooms. I took the theme of the first room and decided to apply it to a space that was a lot bigger in size - a room that
is around 200 feet in diameter. I used a spaceship I had already modeled as the focal point of this scene. Fictionally,
I wanted this room to be a sort of mechanic hangar where these types of spacecraft would dock and operate out of.
I started modeling the scene with a series of concentric circle shapes that would lead the eye of the viewer to the
spacecraft. As with the previous scenes, things are kept simple and messy to allow easy changes of composition and
elements. I like bold and repeating shapes and wanted the motif of this scene to be the circular ribs flanking the edges
of the tubular shape of the space. The goal here is to make high level decisions on composition and overall design. I go
through a few different layouts quickly before deciding on a direction I want to explore.
VERTEX
Sci-Fi Corridor
95
I like bold and contrasting colors. I found some reference images of interesting funnel stacks from power plants that
had a red and white stripe pattern on them. Investing the shape and making it a cylindrical room with a similar paint
scheme seemed very interesting to me. I imagined such a paint scheme would serve a logical function of helping
pilots maneuver in this tight space as a reference point for position and speed. The numbers painted on the sides of
the walls indicate specific positions a pilot should aim for when docking. The control room on the top would have a
hangar operator that would help guide the giant craft into proper position.
Also, at this point I set the final camera position and art the space accordingly from this vantage point. To respect the
rule of thirds, I set the focal subject (the spacecraft) on the left third of the image. All the elements should be reinforcing the focal subject and leading the eyes to it. The surrounding of a viewer - whether in a 2D image or in a real time
game environment - should also reinforce where you want the viewer to look or proceed.
Some of the subject matter I am referencing are industrial locations such as refineries and powerplanets. The walkway on the sides of the space are there mainly to reinforce the scale of the scene, but also to add more eye leading
lines in the composition back toward the spacecraft. To add some more interest to the scene, I start modeling some
stairways and additional catwalks.
As the geometry becomes developed, I introduce some more lights into the scene and start to play with the color
palette. As with the previous scenes, I always do regular renders to see how the overall images is taking shape. Watch
where highlights are appearing, where shadows fall, if ambient occlusion is causing a shape to pop well, etc. All this
information will help inform you where to put your attention and maximize efficiency and speed.
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Sci-Fi Corridor
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Fictionally, I wanted to set this scene as if the spacecraft had just recently docked after finishing its daily work. The airlock door has closed and the atmosphere has been re-introduced into the environment. This reintroduction of atmosphere - combined with the temperature change - creates a misty fog in the scene as water condenses with the change
in humidity. I achieved this misty effect by rendering out a Zdepth pass in V-ray. I also colorized this fog layer to add
some more hue variation to the composition. This Zdepth render can then be layers on top of the .EXR render to create
that foggy atmosphere - in this case I used a Hard Light blending mode on a layer that had 75% opacity. I also add some
more patching cloud texture to this layer to more sensation of condensation to the space.
At this point, I start a deeper material
and lighting pass. I pick out which surfaces are highly reflective/metallic and
try to contrast them against the more
matte cloth elements. I also start doing
basic UV unwraps of surfaces and started working on diffuse textures. I want to
keep things relatively clean and simple
to make sure the elements read well. I
add some more walkways and stairs on
the left of the image to create further
foreground elements to help add depth
to the scene.
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Sci-Fi Corridor
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By now, all the major elements are in the scene - its at this point where I added further elements to help sell the
scale as well as make sure the lighting is taking the eyes of the viewer where I want them to go. I wanted another
foreground element in the scene so I added a giant arm suspended from the ceiling. This arm would grip and hold the
craft in place. This arm was inspired mainly from giant straddle carriers that are a common sight at seaports around
the world.
For the final render, I warmed up the tones and added some more secondary details - such as some warning stripes on
the ceiling and decals on walls. I do some more curves adjustments and color balancing and add some subtle vignetting to draw attention back into the center of the composition. The final color palette is warmer with some greener
hues with the intention that it would communicate the idea of humidity a bit better than the cooler colors of prior
renders.
Conclusion
About Me
Paul Peppera
w w w. p e p e ra a r t . c o m
VERTEX
98
Frederic Daoust
www.artstation.com/artist/fredericdaoust23
99
Kimmo Kaunela
www.artstation.com/artist/kimmokaunela
Houdini Cables
100
Well, I am not sure what compelled me to do a Cable tool in Houdini, but suddenly it just clicked in my head that I knew
how to make all the parts, so I just sat down and did it because of that simple reason. Ive used Houdini for a couple of
years and really like the procedural nature of the program since it can cut down tons of time on repetitive work. Also,
I think it is way more fun to do a little tool for generating the art I want than actually sitting and doing the same thing
over and over again. The image above shows just some of what the Cable tool can do, and I imagine I will polish it more
over time. Right now what you do is putting out a curve (or spline depending on what you call it) and from that single
curve it generates cables.
There are easy controllers for how many sub cables it should generate and if it should use hangers or fall right on the
ground. You have min-max settings for cable width and tension and you can define Holder geo if you want. The tool
uses pre-rolled wire simulations so cables collide against against geo and each other. But since it is pre-rolled you dont
have to press play and wait for it.
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Houdini Cables
101
However, if you have tons of cables, you will have to press a refresh button from time to time. The curves can be imported from other programs and if your program supports Houdini Engine you could just make a Digital Asset out of it
and use this tool in one of those programs. Maya, Max, Cinema 4D, Unity and soon Unreal supports Houdini Engine.
One of the things it does is that it procedurally UV-maps the deformed curves. How I did that is what I will describe
here because going through the rest would probably eat the entire magazine. This being Houdini, you can do this a
million different ways, but this is how I did it.
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Houdini Cables
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The Cross Section starts with a Circle SOP set to Polygon mode and another UV Texture SOP also set to point mode.
After that, an Attribute SOP. Rename the Point attribute name of UV to UV2, otherwise the attribute will collide
with the previous setup UV attribute. Finish off with another Measure SOP. This will measure the circumference of our
circle. An important thing here is that your BackBone UVs are in the U direction and that your Cross Section is in the
V direction.
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Houdini Cables
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At this point, we should have Cable in the 3D Viewport and some ugly looking UVs, like seen on the images. Since
we put both the UV Texture SOPs before to be point UVs, both the regular UV attribute from the BackBone and the
renamed UV2 from the Cross Section, have survived going through the Sweep SOP. That means that we can now use
a VOPSOP to split up the UVs and combine them back together.
VOPSOP Trickery
After the Sweep SOP, put down a VOPSOP node, dive into it (by double click or select and press I) and create two Parameter nodes, one for the UV attribute and one for the UV2 attribute. The type of these needs to be set to Vector.
After each of the Parameter nodes, split the float3 with a Vector to Float node, combining them back together with
a Float to Vector but using the U values from both (which will be the fval1 on the previous nodes), as the new U and
V values (fval1 and 2). Connect the Vector to Float into a Add Attribute node, where the Attribute is set to uv
(needs to be lowercase) and that should make the UVs map correctly along the Cable.
During the writing of this, Houdini 14 was released and in H14 a Bind Export has to be used instead of the Add Attribute. The reason to set up a Measure SOPs for the perimeter, on both the Cross Section and the Back Bone, is that
if you are later Copy Stamping several Cables with different length and width, this will ensure that they get the same
UV values, which we will see more in detail later.
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Put down a UV-Transform SOP and we are going to edit the translate and scale. By adding some expressions, this will become procedural and react to the width and length of the incoming curve.
For the translate:
X: -$XMIN
Y: -$YMIN
Z: 0
For the scale:
X: prim(../Measure_Curve, 0, perimeter, 0) / ( prim(../Measure_Circle, 0, perimeter, 0) )
Y: 1 / $SIZEY
Z: 1
You might wonder why we are working with XYZ in UV space, but thats just how it is. XY is UV in the UV-Transform
SOP. So -$XMIN is actually the U minimum. If U min is 0.5 and we put -$XMIN it will move it by -0.5, snapping it to 0.
The same goes for -$YMIN.
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The translate part is perhaps a bit more complicated. The X value is using our previously set up perimeter measurements, dividing the Length (the first Perimeter we set up) with the Width (the 2nd Perimeter). This will ensure that the
U value is as long as it needs to be based off the length and width of the cable, meaning that there are several cables
that will all look right. The Y value is just a simple 1 / $SIZEY, ensuring that it will fit within the 0-1 space. This setup will
give different pixel density, depending on the width of your cable. That is because we are using the 1 / $SIZY. I set it up
like this because textures for cables often want to use the 0-1 in circumference of the cable, but if you prefer not to
do that, you can use the perimeter we measured to scale that.
Conclusion
It is now done, but you can put down a UV_Quickshade SOP if you wish to
see the result in viewport. Or, apply a material with the correct texture.
Since Houdini is procedural, you can now go back to the original Curve
SOP and edit it. Everything will be automatically updated. You can also do
as I did in the main image at the beginning- spawn several Curves, with
Copy Stamping, feed them different width and length, simulate them as
wires, etc. and then just feed the Curves into this setup and they will be
procedurally UV-mapped.
This way, Houdini, saves you time and allows you to open up for new
things you might never even have considered before. To get more insight
to Houdini and procedural thinking for games, there is a great article
on gamastura.com called Go Procedural - A Better Way to Make Better
Games.
About Me
Magnus Larsson
www.MagnusL3D.com
VERTEX
106
Sung Choi
www.sung-choi.com
107
Joe Tuscany
www.artstation.com/artist/crazyhorse
Marvelous Designer
108
Marvelous Designer
Marvelous Designer is a cloth simulation and garment designing program. Its greatest strength lies in its ability to help
artists quickly iterate on designs and eliminate some of the more challenging aspects of constructing realistic clothing
in 3D. While Marvelous Designer is a very powerful program, that is capable of producing incredible results, it is not
designed to produce 100% finished products. Rather, it is at its best when paired with Zbrush and other 3D tools.
As mentioned before, Marvelous Designer is best used as a starting point for sculpting. While Marvelous Designer is
capable of exporting quad meshes, they are not ideal for sculpting and adding additional details to on their own, and
they require some cleanup before theyre fully useable. Marvelous Designer really shines in its ability to eliminate the
most difficult parts of creating clothing laying out and sculpting realistic panels, seams, and folds.
Marvelous Designer does this in a way that should be intuitive for most experienced 3D artists: By starting with a lowresolution triangulated simulation, the artist lays out the general shapes and arrangement of the garment and iteratively increases the resolution to run the simulation in greater detail. This allows you to work in smaller and smaller
detail, arranging folds and seams as they go.
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Marvelous Designer
109
Creating Patterns
In designing clothing patterns from scratch, it helps to think of the process in terms of how various 2D shapes can be
bent and folded to create 3D shapes. In this way, the process of creating clothes in Marvelous Designer is very much
like creating a 3D model from its UV map. In fact, many of the same shapes you would commonly see associated with
distorted cylinders (such as sleeves for a jacket) and other similar shapes in a UV map are used in Marvelous Designer
to create panels for clothing.
The similarity between UV island shapes and clothing panel shapes is no coincidence; these shapes are the most efficient way of converting a 3D shape to two dimensions and vice versa.
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Marvelous Designer
110
Sewing panels together is as easy as selecting the Segment Sewing tool and clicking on two edges to sew them together, though its possible to have more complex connections. The Edit Sewing tool lets you select, delete, and switch
where different seams connect to each other. Reversing sewing (Right click>Reverse Sewing or Ctrl+B) is helpful when
working with panels that connect to multiple other panels, such as the tops of sleeves.
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Marvelous Designer
111
The Free Sewing tool allows you to connect sub-sections of a single line in your pattern to sub-sections of another line.
This can be helpful for partially unzipped zippers and for adding bunching to certain seams.
Properly arranging your garment patterns in 3D space is critical to getting a good fit and simulation. Changing your
Gizmo coordinate system (Preferences>Gizmo) to your preferred behavior will make this task easier. In addition, doing an initial simulation with no gravity will keep your garments from falling away from the avatar before they have a
chance to wrap around and fit to it (Object Browser>Scene tab>Simulation Property>Gravity).
In addition to adjusting the gravity value to help with your garment arrangement, deactivating and freezing panels,
helps to save time when potentially problematic areas need to be simulated for the first time. Deactivating a panel
removes it from the simulation and keeps it from interacting with or affecting other panels. Freezing panels keeps
them from moving during the simulation, but other panels will still sew to and collide with frozen panels. Freezing and
deactivating panels can be done by right clicking on them in the 3D window.
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Marvelous Designer
112
There are multiple ways to join different panels together in Marvelous Designer. There is, of course, the more realistic
method whereby two edges are laid over each other and then stitched together to form sandwiched layers. This can
lead to attractive results, but its extremely time-consuming and difficult to manage with more complex garments and
seam layouts.
By contrast, its also possible to simply weld the edges of two panels together with little consideration for where the
panels would realistically be joined. Even though this is a much less realistic method of working with seams, it can end
up looking very similar to the realistic alternative after a small amount of cleanup in your chosen sculpting software. It
is also much less time consuming to both arrange and simulate than more realistic seams.
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Marvelous Designer
113
Interior shapes are the backbone for making garments have believable bunching, elastic, folds, interior stitching, and
theyre the easiest way to add features like quilting and patches. By creating interior shapes in panels of clothing, you
can easily add details (that would otherwise be impossible (or at least time consuming and difficult) using only regular
stitching and panel construction.
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Marvelous Designer
114
Interior shapes make it easy to add bunching for elastic and draw strings without having to actually make panels for
each small piece and layer.
Interior shapes are also good for adding structured folds and creases that are not possible otherwise without sculpting.
In this example, the interior shapes form the basis for the folds, and then the simulation adds additional shapes and
wrinkles around them.
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Marvelous Designer
115
One of the best applications of interior shapes is creating seams that panels can be sewn to. In this case, an exterior
pocket can be easily sewn to the outside of a jacket where an interior shape has been drawn on a panel.
Another way to take advantage of interior shapes is to create holes and darts. Holes have various applications, especially if youre working with garments that will have things like space suit valves of stitched tears. Darts are useful for
reshaping flat panels into complex curves like you might see on dresses and fitted jackets.
VERTEX
Marvelous Designer
116
Using multiple materials for your garments is a great way to get different levels of detail and wrinkling in the same way
that you might want to use different specular or gloss values for material definition. In addition to adding visual interest, using multiple materials also allows you to add structure to areas that would otherwise be saggy or shapeless. The
best areas to use thicker or thinner materials are in stiff collars, zippers, inner linings, and patches. In this example, only
the materials have been swapped; no other changes were made, including to the dimensions of the panels.
Layering is a key component of many types of clothing, but it can be difficult to affectively create layered clothing in
Marvelous Designer. There are a couple of different applications of layers, namely for creating things like patches and
thick garments like stuffed jackets. When working with layered to garments, you may run into situations where different layers fight to be on top of each other, similar to z-fighting. The best way to fix this is to adjust which layer a given
piece is assigned to. Higher numbered layers should try to push themselves outwards from the avatar.
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Marvelous Designer
117
Working with layers drastically increases the number of collision calculations necessary for good final results, so there
are a couple of different options for decreasing CPU load in these situations. Using lower resolution for interior panels
is a good option in many cases, especially if the internal panels wont be visible in the final product. As you can see in
the above example, the results are indistinguishable as long as there isnt a huge disparity in resolution that could lead
to lower layers showing faceting.
Buttons, zippers, and other attachments can be simulated by breaking them down to their most basic shapes and
using those as additional panels and internal shapes. In the above examples, snaps are simulated with ring-shaped
internal shapes and zippers can be simulated by using a stiff cloth preset and a long, thin panel.
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Marvelous Designer
118
With many types of garments, you may occasionally see polygonal faceting on pressure points such as shoulders and
elbows. To minimize cleanup later on, it can be helpful to subdivide these areas while leaving other areas at lower resolution to maximize performance. In this example, the smaller facets on the right will smooth out much more cleanly
and easily during sculpting than the larger facets on the left.
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Marvelous Designer
119
Conclusion
As you can see from this brief overview of Marvelous Designers key tools
and features, its a very indepth and powerful program. Despite its depth,
however, creating realistic and convincing cloth has never been easier.
Expect that within the next few years, knowledge of Marvelous Designer
and similar programs will be essential parts of the character artists
toolkit.
About Me
Xavier Coelho-Kostolny
w w w . x a v i e r c k . c o m
VERTEX
120
Antonis Karidis
www.artstation.com/artist/roen911
121
Drew Hill
www.artstation.com/artist/drewhill
2.5D Texturing
122
2.5D TEXTURING
We have all seen those street artists that can create works of art on the ground, giving the illusion of 3 dimensional
depth and those skewed advertisements on sports fields, that when focused on by the Television cameras, read perfectly, yet from any other angle appear visually broken. We know its because they are only intended to work from a
specific viewing angle.
The technique I am going to share focuses on achieving a painterly aesthetic used in conjunction with a fixed camera
perspective. Ill elaborate a little about my texturing techniques during this, but it shouldnt really be deemed as a
Hand-Painted Texturing tutorial. It is more about the 2.5D texturing principal on the whole; something I learnt whilst
working within a fantastic team as an artist on Diablo III: Reaper of Souls. I would like to pay it forward by sharing this
with the VERTEX art community.
The majority of this procedure can be accomplished in 3DS Max / Maya and Photoshop. However, I like to include 3D
Coat for the ability to paint directly onto the geometry enabling me to visualize the results instantly. In Diablo, due to
having the camera position fixed at 45 degrees to the grid (Fig. 1), we are able to obtain greater depth in our textures,
often referred to as 2.5D Texturing.
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2.5D Texturing
123
Fig.1
2.5D Explained
Fig.2
Fig.2
Fig.2
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2.5D Texturing
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Scene Preparation
To begin creating a diorama scene like this, I import the core geometry on a per-material basis (no props etc) in to 3DCoat. This step can also be achieved in Photoshop, but you would be required to export the textures frequently in
order to read how they look under game camera circumstances.
Once 3D Coat has initiated, as the models have their UVs laid out, I begin by selecting the Paint directly over UVd
model option. I fill all the diffuse textures white and then begin sketching very rough structural information into my
textures indicating where I want my main elements to sit within the scene. Also during this step, I will suggest where
I want my 2.5D angles to fall on my textures.
It is important to lock down the camera angle throughout this sketching process. If you find yourself zoomed in to too
far while painting details, the easier it becomes for your viewing angle to break. In those circumstances, usually later
on in the process, I get into the habit of regularly pulling the camera out to enable me to evaluate the overall look.
Once complete, I export the textures and use them as guides in Photoshop.
Fig.3
Painting
Once in Photoshop, I overlay my sketched textures for reference. I also create a few guidelines at 45 degrees as
visual aids. Again, I rough in the 2D shapes and ensure the
texture tiles accordingly (Fig. 4). Once Im happy, Ill go in
and start introducing depth to the textures by painting the
angles along a 45 degree vector. (Fig.5)
Due to the in-game camera being some distance away, I
keep any high frequency detail to a minimum in order to
maintain a better overall read of the medium / low frequency details. Should I feel the need to include small details, I try and keep them within a similar value range to
their surrounding pixels.
This reduces unwanted contrast and prevents them from
fighting for visual attention with the larger details. When
all my angles are defined, I then start to push and pull
some elements to really emphasize the depth that I want
to achieve. (Fig. 6)
Fig.4
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2.5D Texturing
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Fig.5
Fig.6
I wont talk too much about values here, but on the traditional value scale of Black = 10 White = 1, I mostly stay between 3 and 8. I only ever delve into the 1, 2 and 9 range for the brightest accent details, and the darkest of shadows
respectively. As a base, I always like to start with a mid-grey value and then slowly introduce a layer of broad shadows
and highlights, adding on extra layers of refinement one after the other until Im content with how the contrast is
reading. (Fig.7)
After this step, I like to throw in a handful of other hues in
order to get some variation going on in my diffuse. Having
a texture with the same uniform hue throughout can appear very flat and consequently a little boring. It doesnt
need to be anything of great contrast, but rather a very
subtle variation of colors.
So much of this texture painting is about laying down
darks next to lights in order to define the shapes. Take
advantage of the fact that you are using textures instead
of geometry, so dont feel constrained to just painting flat,
extruded-like forms. Tilt, buckle, and break the details to
create a more natural, painterly aesthetic. The older and
more worn the material, the more likely it will be to have
undulating details. Remember, it is an important part of
our role as game artists to be able to substantiate our
games narrative and to provide a level of instant deep
context. Adding character and story related details to our
textures really helps support the whole narrative for our
games while adding a layer of charm.
Fig.7
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At this point of the process, I am always going back and forth between Photoshop and 3D-Coat checking the texture in
situation from the game camera angle to ensure that its reading ok. Once Im happy with it in Photoshop, Ill finalize
it in 3D-coat and tighten up any wayward angles by painting in some deft amendments.
A typical video game texture may start off looking like the one in Fig.8, but by applying the techniques outlined above
you can really achieve that extra layer of the depth. (Fig.9)
Fig.8 2D
Fig.9 2.5D
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2.5D Texturing
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Geometry Tips!
A useful tip to include, that really helps
sell the overall illusion is, when butting
these textures next to adjacent surfaces,
try adding cheap, basic cuts to the geometry (Fig. 11).
The idea being that you want to affect
the surfaces silhouette slightly and give
it some extra character. Add some topology around a couple of the features
and pull them out a little, being careful
not to cause too much UV distortion.
When the two surfaces are together, it
can trick the player into thinking that
there is more going on in the scene than
just texture work. (Fig.12)
Fig.11
Fig.13
Fig.12
Fig.14
Wireframe on Flat Shaded
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2.5D Texturing
128
Props
With regards to props, for this scene I have used the 2.5D method as I dont need to re-use them elsewhere. For a full
game environment, if you want maximum re-usability from your props, then Id recommend texturing them the traditional way so that they can be positioned in any orientation. To make them stand out a little from the background, I
create a top to bottom (white to black) Ambient Occlusion gradient which helps them pop a little, while still grounding
them to the scene. (Fig.16) From then on in, its just a case of refining and iterating until Im happy with the overall
scene.
Texture Example
Fig.15
Fig.16
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Conclusion
I hope this article offers a valuable insight in to the 2.5D texturing process and offers some inspiration towards your
future art projects. Whether youre making a top-down AAA PC game, a tablet game, or just a hobbyist with the
intention of creating hand-painted visuals, I feel that this process can really help you achieve that painterly direction.
About Me
Matt McDaid
w w w. a r t s t a t i o n . c o m / a r t i s t / m a t t m c d a i d
VERTEX
130
Ilya Kuvshinov
www.artstation.com/artist/kr0npr1nz
131
www.artstation.com/artist/thrax
Booleans
132
Booleans
Have you ever thought to yourself, There has to be a faster way to make hard-surface models with all those complicated cuts and bevels!? Well, there is! Its called Boolean based modeling. When most hear this, they nod and smile, but
this isnt your grandmas booleans! Its what I would like to consider a new era of boolean based modeling. As the years
have progressed, more and more programs are embracing boolean based methods of modeling and I think you should,
too! Once I explain how Booleans are meant to be worked with, modeling with Booleans will be fun and explorative!
A Boolean, by definition, is an algorithm that has many operating sets: ADD or SUB. Originally, Booleans were introduced in NURBS based modeling used in CAD design. In the program that I use, Autodesk Fusion 360, they will be
called Combine, Cut, and Intersect. Each operation produces a different result. For the Addition operation, it joins the
two bodies for you to merge and chamfer or fillet in between them. You can keep cutting out more shapes using a Cut
operation which is excellent for taking out chunks with boolean shapes that are premade or custom. You can use them
to cut or add intricate shapes into the body in an extremely fast manner. Last, but not least, there is the Intersection,
which takes the active selected bodies volume to slice everything from the outside or inside of that object and the body
remaining inside stays intact. Each of these boolean operations usually have multiple options to reverse the selection
process.
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Booleans
133
When doing these operations, you are putting on serious computational stress. This is a killer in your boolean workflow. You want to keep the object as clean as possible. What I am saying is you really want to create your model with
the least amount of moves. Whenever an operation that would be an add, subtract, or intersection is initiated, the
computer has to calculate between the cuts youve made, visible or otherwise . The more cuts, additions and subtractions, the heavier the load that the object will put out. The amount of effort on the CPU/GPU involved to mathematically calculate a cylinder with 0 booleans as opposed to a cylinder with 6 booleans is substantially less.
Comparatively body A puts less stress on the graphics load than body B does
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Booleans
134
If you arent careful, at the end of your project, the Boolean object will tend to look faceted and pock marked. Sometimes it ends up having weird normals, pinches, seams and marks that conflict with your overall flow and cleanliness
of the model. The reasoning for this is that when its time to export the selected object, you want it to look as clean as
possible. With every program or modeling method, there are upsides and downsides. Sometimes, when you merge or
filet between objects that have been booleans combined together. You can get the dreaded star pinches and n-sided
edges. If you have a lot of overlapping stared corners, it causes a lot of issues later on. Its best to avoid this as much
as possible
This is why you can keep cutting into them without having to worry about keeping a good polyflow and just focus on your forms and shapes.
You can punch holes through the most complex of models with ease in a single operation.
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Booleans
135
Instead of tweaking verts and cutting polygons till the cows come home, its more about obtaining the shape that
you want in the least amount of cuts and filets. When booleaning, less is more! The less cuts the cleaner the overall
result will show in Fusion. This follows over to other programs you end up exporting the body out to. Booleans are
perfect, but there are cons. The cons of booleans is that they are not flexible. In traditional polygonal modeling, you
have the option to push and pull vertices and edges if you are unsatisfied with the shape of the poly object. Booleans
do not contain actual movable/editable vertices. They contain what I would call planes with edges that act like a hinge
If you want the plane (face) to be rotated at an acute angle or anything in between, you can also extend and shorten
the plane similar to an extrusion. If you are making a major cut/Boolean and it ends up the wrong shape and is too
small, there is very little you can do outside of making the hole bigger or smaller, especially if you are past the point
of doing an undo.
This doesnt exactly apply to doing boolean operations in Maya or max. There are polygons in those programs. Fusion is planes, not polys. Personally, if I am booleaning in poly based programs, I like to keep the objects polycount
that im using for booleans as low as I can get and just boolean with that. The great part about booleaning with polys
is that you do have that flexibility to adjust that inner shape you punched out. In Fusion, there are no deformers to
bend or warp the bodies. It is critical that you plan your moves ahead of time when it comes to creating shapes with
booleans.
Slicing the block to get the
curve form I need because
there are no deformers in fusion.
If I want a curved body, I have to cut the curve of the body shape I want. Just like the above photo shows, I cannot take
a solid rectangle and bend it with a deformer to the shape that is wanted. Whether its going to be used for VFX/Movies, Gaming, or Commercials/Personal work. It will benefit you to have cleaner shapes to bake maps off of or retopo
or just to clean up and use as is. It is important to understand and actually try and experiment for yourself how these
Booleans behave and interact when you start cutting, slicing, filleting. A good thing to note is that this program tries
to make operations that would function in the real world, so it is important to try and think realistically.
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Protip: it is extremely helpful to use planes from the bodies to begin putting down your sketches for slicing the body
in half or to begin another body using the plane to assist your accuracy of your boolean.
When creating a Boolean object, its best to approach the object as if it was a solid block of metal and your modeling
tools are the bits in the milling machine. Notice in the photo on the previous page, when making those slices, which is
the named process in Fusion, I treated them just as described. You are trying to emulate the manufacturing process.
Booleans have more options than just subtractive modeling. When it comes to dealing with booleans, it is an additive
and subtractive process. Knowing that, you can take two or more objects and add then blend between two or more
separate bodies using a loft method to create very unique and hard to model shapes.
I am lofting between two different bodies to create a body that blends in between the two to create a singular unified
and blended body.
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When modeling using Booleans, it is important to start extremely basic with your shapes and move up to more and
more complex cuts. Think of it in zbrush terms. You want to start with your blocky basemesh and after you nail out
all those shapes, you start adding all the features. Whatever you want to build will come from a huge mass that you
either create out of the standard bodies or from curves/sketches that generate a block mass to cut into. When I start
out modeling, I will start out with a giant chunk. Its usually bigger than what is needed and it gets cut and trimmed
down to size or added onto, if need be. If I need more control and accuracy, Ill use curves or sketches.
These are what I would consider the most effective methods of cutting into Booleans to shape. If you are going to
build the mass from curves, which most of the time I prefer, there are rules that will make the the body it outputs
easier to make changes to and handle. When drawing sketches or using curves, it is important to place as few curve
points as necessary. This allows you to edit the shape on a more detailed level and speeds up the workflow.
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Blocking in shapes and using the sketches/curves to trim down or add to sections.
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From this point, you can use sketches/curves to trim down the body or you can start booleaning and combining more
bodies to get the shape and volume that is desired. You can do this by selecting multiple bodies, combining them, and
filleting between them. This creates those nice tig welded areas that end up catching light in your final render. Bodies
that intersect and were combined are now a single object (body), allowing you to fillet and chamfer between those
edges that would, otherwise, take up a ton of time welding verts and polys to patch everything up, and then applying
some edge loops to get this desired effect. In Fusion, this process is almost instantaneous. You can chamfer it as well.
Its really up to personal preference.
It is very tempting to chamfer and fillet all of your objects early on. This is understandable because it makes the model
look amazing. The problem with this is, that when you fillet you are creating a rounded edge that is mathematically
generated. Now that the fillet is set, you really cant work that edge anymore besides pulling it to create a sharper
fillet and even then it might not agree and function. In fact, in Fusion, this makes modeling around multiple fillets a
big inconvenience. So, its best to hold off and chamfer all your edges until you absolutely need a curve to define the
shape of that body. Personally I like to add chamfers and then worry about the filets later. That way you dont have to
look at unrealistically sharp, unchamfered edges that dont catch light.
Chamfers are a little more forgiving. It creates a flat face between the 2 faces adjoining edge. you can adjust width
and angle to your liking. This cant be done with fillets when Fusions history is turned off. So be aware. You can however filet the chamfered edges much later on giving it a real sophisticated look that has all those edges catching light
in a realistic way.
When im this far into the model is when i start to add a nice amount of chamfers.
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You can start adding a filet here and there to Define a big shapes outline. Its important that your model catches light
realistically so you can get a feeling for how the chamfers and bevels will read. You want them to read properly and not
a ton of randomly sized chamfers and fillets. When doing any boolean operation you can boolean with any complexity of object. If you are planning to add it further on, when the object is very much worked over. It is best to use it as
boolean when it is already filleted and chamfered to your liking. My reasoning behind this is that you dont want to
spend all your time filleting and chamfering all those tight and hard to reach corners after its tightly inside a crevice.
This in itself is extremely time consuming to filet after booleaning on a complex object.
To make all those offsets rings on the inside i usually use sketches to build on the planes to use as not only guides, but
to use them as slice templates to slice the object in half. The amazing thing about this is there is no patching or welding
when you slice or cut. This cuts the down-time of patching polys to speed up your workflow immensely. When doing
this it should always on clean edges. The edges that I would consider clean, are the edges that have not been fileted at
the corners of the body.
When it comes to offsetting edges its best to leave the filet till the end.
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It is important to note that when using booleans that have issues to cut other objects/bodys that it will cause a problem that will compound later on in your body/file. This ranges from export issues to polys exploding in some areas
come time to export or just a good ol fashioned crash.
Stamps..what are stamps? They are the amalgamation of all your booleaning knowledge into you guessed it ...a
stamp. This stamp is perfect for when you blocked in the main forms and you really want to start punching in complex
details immediately with fantastic results. This is what I consider booleans strongest selling point. These prefabricated (by you) boolean shapes known as Stamps is used to either combine, subtract or intersect into the model. This
will help speed up your modeling workflow by leaps and bounds.
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At this time in the model I have been just merging other bodies, filleting between them, stamping with pre made shapes.
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Exporting
When using Booleans the one thing you want to keep in mind coming into a program such as Fusion is, how are you
going to deal with the body after you are finished creating it. Exporting your boolean out with proper normals to the
other programs is very important. While this type of modeling is invaluable, it does not work well come time to use
in a gaming engine or to be used in production for movies/vfx. Its triangulated and extremely ugly. Be that as i may,
there is 2 exporting methods I personally have experimented with great success.
.STL Just do it
There is stl. I love stl format. It usually has the least amount of issues when you export and you can set the density
of mesh. There are multiple settings and a slider so you can get really specific with poly densit. This is awesome for
quick cleanup for baking.. Its only downside is that you can only export one .stl at a time and with a scene with a lot
of pieces that could take a long time. It comes out triangulated, but if set to a low enough resolution and the body is
just chamfers clean up is pretty easy. For anything more complex that has been filleted to the nth degree, thats where
your retopo programs come in handy i.e. topogun, 3dcoat, maya, and Zbrush to name a few.
Getting the file ready for export as .STL
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When importing into max with stl, make sure to select quick weld on the import options and dont touch anything
else. This is the best way to make sure your normals look as good when you were working on the boolean. I have found
that anything else and you end up having weird facing normals that will ruin the look you are going for. You want to
take this beautiful boolean from one program and preserve its normals and facing angles through program to program.
Maya imports the stl format fine, the problem is that there is no option to do Maxs quick-weld option on the import
menu, resulting in weird pinched looking normals. Oddly enough if you go through max to maya it ends up looking
great!
There is Iges which is great, but it comes with a few caveats. First off it doesnt seem to import well with Maya but does
just fine for keyshot and Max . Also when they are imported into 3ds Max. It comes in its own IGES format and must
be removed from that group by literally clicking and deleting the iges group until its just bodies in the browser. Then
you can apply an edit poly modifier added onto it to get it ready for clean up or uvs. Now its ready for obj export.
Otherwise, IGES format is amazing if you have a ton of pieces in your boolean set that you need exported out asap as
a single file as opposed to piece by piece, file by file like in stl.
This is all the iges data now converted to an obj. This geo is great to retopo and bake.
When importing into max with stl. Make sure to select quick weld on the import options and
dont touch anything else. This is the best way to make sure your normals look as good as
when you were working on the boolean in Fusion. I have found that anything else and you end
up having weird facing normals that will ruin the clean machined look you are going for. You
want to take this beautiful boolean from one program and preserve its normals and facing angles through program to program. Maya imports the .stl format fine. The problem is that there
is no option to do Maxs quick-weld option on the import menu.
This is how you import .stl files cleanly that preserve all the normals information
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Conclusion
About Me
Hunter Rosenberg
w w w . h r o s e n b e r g . c o m
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Maciej Kuciara
www.facebook.com/showtimebook
147
Rafael Grassetti
www.grassetti.wordpress.com
The Raider
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I do a lot of boring, repetitious work for pay. Especially back then for the Elder Scrolls hair styles, beards, jewelry, etc.
Every once in a while, I try to make an image just for myself. This idea came from the 2013 Tomb Raider Reborn contest,
to create an iconic Lara Croft image in time for the launch of the new game. I never planned to submit it because it
broke the rules right from the start it used the old Lara outfit and not the new one. The idea just jumped at me when
I read about the contest and had a passing thought like, I wonder what I would do if I was entering the contest, and
bang...there it was. That doesnt happen too often, so you have to catch it when it does.
Getting Started
I started with a pen sketch on paper. I always steal a stack of copy machine paper and leave it near my work station
ready to catch ideas. Later, at home, I traced the sketch in Photoshop on my Wacom and then colored it. The colors
naturally grew out of the lighting idea and the lighting idea came from my habit of trying to integrate the lighting inside
the image and if possible even make it a main feature of the image. In my opinion, this improves logic, makes the
image more self-contained and more interesting, and the elements more integrated. Interesting lighting is beautiful
lighting. In this case, the flash of the guns is pretty much the only source of light, which I think works well aesthetically.
It also increases the drama, emphasizing the violence of the explosions and freezing the moment as if with a camera
flash.
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Adding Details
Below, I worked out some more details. I gave her a pleated skirt (obviously because Im a perv), some generic background made from an interesting photo of trees I googled. I strengthened her hair blowing backwards since I imagined the monster exhaling forcefully, maybe roaring in pain. This also happens to flip the skirt up. Hey, internal logic
is everything! But, the perspective is still wrong, giving the monster head a twisted badly constructed feel. In fact, I
only made it worse with my efforts. I think it was around this time that I decided I would eventually build the whole
thing in 3D, even if just roughly, to make sure I got that damned perspective. Blocking things out in 3D also helps with
lighting.
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I tried moving the eye down and changing the direction of the burn scar, but I dont think it improved anything, rather
the opposite. So
Adding 3D
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Then, I thought that instead of spending a week sketching and painting and re-painting detail in Photoshop, continuously guesstimating shading, color and shape, I decided to spend a couple days sculpting the simple Maya shape in a
3D sculpting software.
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I took the scene into Zbrush and started adding details. This is always easier to do in 3D than by painting and for several reasons, 1: youre only thinking about one thing, the shape. 2: you can use symmetry and only need to model half
the model. 3: coloring is a separate pass, making it possible to focus on it separately. 4: lighting is also separate, and
automated, and therefore always better than what we can imagine and paint. 5: Experimenting is quicker and easier,
allowing for easier flow of ideas in shorter time. At this stage, I started thinking that maybe in addition to a 2D final
image, I might also be able to make a 3D print out of it.
I added the character, refined the pose, detailed the gun, sculpted anatomy and started the hair. I made some simple
fallen-down sock shapes because I had now decided to make the character a Japanese school girl. It was the best I
could come up with, to fit with the pleated skirt. Perhaps I should have made her a super-hi-tech sci-fi assassin in a
tight cyber suit instead but Im so bored with those I could cry. Or, perhaps a medieval fantasy theme, complete with
illogical non-functional female armor? Also incredibly boring to me. (Sorry if thats your thing.) I added more scales to
the monster. Also note the edits to the area that would be just above the upper lip on a human adding some more
interest instead of a boring straight line, which is what it was before.
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Here Ive sculpted the socks (from image-googled reference), finished the hair in a kind of stylized cartoony way, made
the tongue pointier, and detailed the gun further. I also made shoes for her, but they cant be seen from this angle.
The above is a hardware rendering from inside Zbrush, using Wax Preview and a skin shader downloaded from the
internet. Here Ive also been doing some painting, particularly effective is the painting using different automated
masking options, such as Detail, Curvature, Occlusion etc that take advantage of all the hard sculpting work that
has already been done. This worked sort of like Ambient Occlusion to really bring out the shapes, darkening grooves
and highlighting scales.
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More like this. Then I collapsed the layers, raised the resolution and zoomed in to paint colors and cleaner details.
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Next, I had to raise the resolution and the only way to do that after the fact is by painting. I probably should have kept
the Zbrush and Maya renders higher res, but the computer was struggling and I dont mind painting. I had to make lots
of little adjustments anyway, in Photoshop. It only took about 2 days. The final painting is on the left, on the right is
the image before I began.
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Heres the final high res image, notice I cropped the eye out. I felt that the skin of the monster was just too samey
and boring, when it occupied almost 70% of the image area.
Conclusion
About Me
Steven Stahlberg
www.patreon.com/Stahlberg
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Khyzyl Saleem
www.artstation.com/artist/khyzylsaleem
161
Vince Rizzi
www.artstation.com/artist/vincerizzi
Silhouette Modelling
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Silhouette Modelling
Intro
With ZBrush getting better at creation of geometry, a lot of people, especially beginners, tend to forget simple and
effective modeling methods which are easy to use. By creating basic shapes, its easier to follow concepts and iterate
them upon request. I do use dynamesh when concepting in 3d, in cases where shapes are not clear from the start,
but working with already designed concepts, consisting of complex and clean shapes, I would definitely not chose
dynamesh as my most preferred approach. There is time and space for all these methods, but this procedure suits me
best for working on client projects with a given concept. When improvising I usually use a mix between this method
and dynamesh.
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I call it Silhouette Modelling as it starts with the objects most prominent silhouette. I always preferred it over other
classical poly modelling methods such as box modelling and edge by edge modelling. Box Modelling usually is a backwards thought process- you take a box and subdivide it to deform it into shape. Edge by edge starts with the topology
in mind, making it easier to create certain shapes, but I dont want to worry too much about topology at the early
shape definition stages. I concentrate on the big shapes instead of taking care of topology and edge flow. I will now
show it on one of the characters created for the Microsoft & Moon Studios Game Ori and the Blind Forest.
This is one of the concepts for Ori by Johannes Figlhuber, which got changed during the process and iterated upon in
3d, so the result will not follow this concept entirely. I picked Ori as he is a pretty simple character to demonstrate the
approach. The game is based on easy readable silhouettes, so it is a perfect fit for this demo. I use this technique for
almost anything, be it on the models I created for Halo, Crysis or even for complex-stylized-looks like Settlers.
I usually start with drawing out my model parts
from their most important angle. This is the
sideview for pieces such as the torso, head, ears,
tail and leg. I start with the angle that has the majority of pieces in it, so I have a lot of the landmarks set early on.
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The next step would be to create pieces that cannot be captured from the side. In case of this model, this would be the
arm and possibly the antlers. But in this example I will ignore these details to keep the visualisation of the workflow
clean and simple.
Now, it is time to establish the 90 angles from our initial silhouettes to add some depth to the whole model. While
Topology slightly starts to take a role here now, this stage is still very simple and things are easy to change. At this stage
I play a lot with the silhouette of things to make them match the concept but also work good in 3d. Often times, things
can get lost in translation from two dimensions into the third.
This is pretty much the core to the method, from there on it is only about adding more geometry to support the shapes
After this is done, I start adding most, if not all back sides and make sure all parts are at least 4 sided. This way I make
sure that the silhouette keeps up at all possible angles. While being abstract still, the model starts to take shape in all
dimension and can be viewed from pretty much any angle.
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This makes it easy to tune things if needed. This is also the stage where I start taking care of the distances between
edges so I get a nice and even topology later on.
Once you have everything set up to be 4 sided, tools like flow connect or set flow make the creation of in-betweens a
lot easier
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Final Mesh
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Conclusion
Every method has its upsides and downsides, but with new approaches being introduced, old and established ones get neglected more and
more, even though they still have a lot of substance. Beginners starting in our field only see the latest stuff and follow those approaches,
without ever learning how simple it is to create clean meshes in a very
fast way.
Dynamesh, as great as it is, is not the best workflow when it is about
following a concept, iterating from it and making it work in 3d. It is
always simpler to have a handful of polygons to define a certain shape
and then subdividing it to make it smooth, rather than having to push
and pull around thousands of polygons and smoothing out possible
bumps one will create in that process.
About Me
Steffen Unger
www.artstation.com/artist/airbornstudios
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Layna Lazar
www.artstation.com/artist/lazar
169
Markus Neidel
www.artstation.com/artist/markus
Voxel House
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Voxel House
Introduction
My projects typically revolve around some central idea that I want to explore. Here, that central idea is a particular
content driven approach to modular tilesets that Ive had on my mind for a while. This project could have been created
as a Python script in Maya or a node graph in Houdini. However, since I dont want my final presentation material to be
a dull narrated youtube clip set in a grey-boxed Maya scene, I created an interactive web demo instead.
As a tech artist, the width of my skill set is crucial; Im not a master artist nor a proper coder, but Ive got a slice of both
in me. Im most comfortable in the very intersection of art and tech; of procedure and craftsmanship. A web demo is
the perfect medium to display those skills.
The core concept is this: the tiles are places in the corners between blocks, not in the center of the blocks. The tiles
are defined by the blocks that surround them: a tile adjacent to one block in the corner would be 1,0,0,0,0,0,0; a tile
representing a straight wall would be 1,1,1,1,0,0,0,0.
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Since each corner is surrounded by 8 possible blocks, each of which can be of the 2 possible states of existence or
non-existence, the number of possible tiles are 2^8= 256. That is way more blocks than I want to model, so I wrote a
script to figure out which of these tiles were truly unique, and which tiles were just rotations of other tiles. The script
told me that I had to model 67 unique tiles - a much more manageable number.
I could have excluded flipped version of other tiles as well, which would have brought the number down even further.
However, I decided to keep those so that I could make some asymmetrically tiling features. The drain pipes you see
in concave corners of the building is one example of that.
Being the tech artist that I am, I often spend more time on my workflow than on my actual work. Even accounting for
rotational permutations, this project still involved a large amount of 3D meshes to manually create and keep track of.
The modular nature of the project also made it important to continuously see and evaluate the models in their proper
context outside of Maya. The export process had to be quick and easy and I decided to write a small python script to
help me out. First, the script merges all my meshes into one piece. Second, a bounding box for each tile proceeds to
cut out its particular slice of this merged mesh using Mayas boolean operation. All the cutout pieces inherit the name
and transform from their bounding box and are exported together as an fbx.
Not only did this make the export process a one-button solution, it also meant that I didnt have to keep my Maya
scene that tidy. It didnt matter what meshes were named, how they were parented or whether they were properly
merged or not. I adapted my Maya script to allow several variations of the same tile type. My Unity script then chose
randomly from that pool of variation where it existed. In the image below, you can see that some of the bounding
boxes are bigger than the others. Those are for tiles that have vertices that stretch outside their allotted volume.
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Ambient Occulusion
Lighting is crucial to convey 3D shapes and a good sense of space. Due to the technical limitations in the free version
of Unity, I didnt have access to either real time shadows or ssao - nor could I write my own, since free Unity does not
allow render targets. The solution was found in the blocky nature of this project. Each block was made to represent a
voxel in a 3D texture. While Unity does not allow me to draw render targets on the GPU, it does allow me to manipulate
textures from script on the CPU. (This is of course much slower per pixel, but more than fast enough for my purposes.)
Simply sampling that pixel in the general direction of the normal gives me a decent ambient occlusion approximation.
I tried to multiply this AO on top of my unlit color texture, but the result was too dark and boring. I decided on an approach that took advantage on my newly acquired experience in 3D textures: Instead of just making pixels darker, the
AO lerps the pixel towards a 3D LUT that makes it bluer and less saturated. The result gives me a great variation in hue
without too harsh a variation in value. This lighting model gave me the soft and tranquil feeling I was aiming for in this
project.
Special Pieces
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When you launch the demo, it will auto generate a random structure for you. By design, that structure does not contain any loose or suspended blocks.
I know that a seasoned tool-user will try to break the tool straight away by seeing how it might treat these type of
abnormal structures. I decided to show off by making these tiles extra special, displaying features such as arcs, passages, and pillars.
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Floating Pieces
Art Choices
Picking a style is a fun and important part of any project. The style should highlight the features relevant to a particular
project. In this project, I wanted a style that would emphasize blockiness and modularity rather than hiding it.
The clear green lines outline the terraces, the walls are plain and have lines of darker brick marking each floor, the
windows are evenly spaced, and the dirt at the bottom is smooth and sedimented in straight lines. Corners are heavily
beveled to emphasize that the tiles fit together seamlessly. The terraces are supposed to look like cozy secret spaces
where you could enjoy a slow brunch on a quiet Sunday morning. Overall, the piece is peaceful and friendly - a homage
to the tranquility of bourgeois life, if you will.
Animation
It should be fun and responsive to interact with the piece. I created an animated effect for adding and removing blocks.
The effect is a simple combination of a vertex shader that pushes the vertices out along their normals and a pixel
shader that breaks up the surface over time. A nice twist is that I was able to use the 3D texture created for the AO to
constrain the vertices along the edge of the effect - this is what creates the bulge along the middle seen in the picture.
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Conclusion
The final result is like a tool, but not. Its an interactive piece of art that
runs in your browser. It can be evaluated for its technical aspects, its
potential as a level editor tool, its shader work, its execution and finish, or just as a fun thing to play around with. My hope is that it can
appeal to developers and laymen alike.
In a way, a web demo like this is simply a mischievous way to trick people into looking at your art longer than they otherwise would.
About Me
Im Oskar Stlberg. I grew up in the university town of Uppsala, Sweden. I have two brothers. The three of us share a love for math, science,
and problem solving. I do, however, beat them at drawing, so it was
obvious to me from a young age that I had to do something related to
that. After secondary school, I spent two incredibly stressful, yet fruitful years at The Game Assembly learning all the basics of game art.
Ubisoft Massive picked me up as a technical artist and thats where
Ive been since. I like creating things that are beautiful, interactive, and
responsive. I value elegant solutions. I am the most comfortable in the
very intersection between tech and art and Im always on the lookout
for new intersections as such.
Oskar Stlberg
w w w . o s k a r s t a l b e r g . c o m
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Dmitriy Barbashin
www.artstation.com/artist/dmitriy_barbashin
177
www.artstation.com/artist/azure
Matte Painting
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Matte Painting
Introduction
During the development of Alien: Isolation, we faced many interesting technical challenges. One of them was that in a
game focused on highly detailed, small interior environments, we really needed to have areas where the player is able
to see outside of the Sevastopol space station, which the game takes place on. Being able to see the exterior of the
station and the vast emptiness of space outside was key in contextualizing the players location in the world, as well as
signposting and foreshadowing the players journey through Sevastopol.
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There was no way we could model, texture, and light pieces of architecture which were in some cases up to 0.5km tall
in real world scale using the same technology and methods we were using to build the rest of the game. We needed
a solution to render detailed distant backgrounds and cheaply.
The solution we settled on was to use digital matte paintings a technique often used in the Visual Effects industry to
extend the backgrounds of shots in film and TV. Our approach was to composite a digital image generated offline (rendered using VRay from highly detailed scenes, and then painted over by a concept artist) into the game at runtime.
An example of a matte painting used to depict a distant background in film VFX (Cloud Atlas, 2012).
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Process Breakdown
Our process for the production of each matte painting would broadly break down into several stages:
The scene is rendered at high resolution using a high-end offline renderer, in our case VRay
The composited renders are passed on to a concept artist to do final paintover and detailing
The final matte paintings are projected back from the original camera, onto low-res geometry to be used in the
game
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Paintover
Proxy Geometry
The process of creating a render from VRay and then working up to the final matte painting in Photoshop was relatively straightforward, but when it came to correctly rendering the final projected matte paintings in-game, there
were several obstacles to overcome.
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So our goal was to project a single, visually coherent painting onto arbitrary geometry from a camera. Our first approach to the projection was to simply align the UV coordinates in 0-1 space relative to their position in the cameras
screen-space using the Camera Map modifier in 3DS Max. This approach caused a number of artefacts.
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These issues manifested as all kinds of triangular stretching artifacts which appeared when the texture was applied to
the geometry, especially on faces where their normals were near perpendicular to the camera view angle and/or with
high FOV cameras, as illustrated below:
Test Scene
What we quickly realized was that the traditional quadrilateral UV interpolation was not suitable for what we were
trying to do.
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Result
Desired Result
Using quadrilateral texcoord interpolation, we get the typical diagonal seams this is exacerbated by using sparsely
tessellated geometry. If we take our desired result from the previous diagram, youll see that what we want is for our
UV interpolation to be linear in the screen-space of the camera. However, this means that the UV interpolation will be
non-linear in world-space:
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What we see here is a typical and well known situation where quadrilateral texcoord interpolation breaks down. What
we need to do here is use projective interpolation - which is the inverse of the math transform which we commonly
use to map a 3D scene onto a 2D image. In short, the fix was to do the inverse of world-view-projection for our UVs on
a per-pixel basis in our shader, based on the camera which was being used to project the texture.
In our final implementation, we used a standalone script in 3DS Max to bake the projection matrix of the camera into
the constants of the shader which would be used on the geometry. The final shader doesnt actually use the UV coordinates from the model at all (we didnt even export UV coords to the final models to save on memory). Instead, the
shader uses the stored projection matrix from the camera to reconstruct projected vertex positions in object-space.
This means that the geometry can be edited and the projection will update in real-time; because we store the projected vertex positions in object-space, that also means that we are free to move and reposition the matte paintings
(in-game geometry) at runtime.
Lets take a quick look at the math behind perspective projection. We will start with a simplifying assumption about
the camera and then extend our solution to work for all cases. Suppose that the camera is located at the origin, facing
along the Z axis. We want to project a given point P onto a virtual screen situated somewhere in front of that virtual
camera. Let us also assume that the screen is one unit away from the camera. It is a rectangle 2 * a units wide, and 2
* b units tall, where a and b depend on the field of view: a = tan(horizontal fov / 2) b = tan(vertical fov / 2).
Our goal is to find the coordinates of point P, which lies at the intersection of the virtual screen and a line from the
origin towards P. From Thales theorem, we get:
P.x = P.x / P.z
P.y = P.y / P.z
P.z = 1
We can discard the z coordinate, as it will always be 1, but we are going to use x and y to calculate the projected
texture coordinates. The x coordinate of all visible points will be between -a and a, whereas the y coordinate will be
between -b and b. Assuming that the texture origin is in the lower left corner, the u and v coordinates will be:
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Another problem we encountered was that the geometry that was overlapping from the POV of the camera would
cause the far geometry to receive the projection for the object in front of it. This is fine when viewed from the exact
same position the matte painting was projected from, but as the viewer moves further away from that point, the artifacts become more obvious:
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In offline rendering, you would typically separate each layer of parallax into a separate image/layer, but in realtime
rendering we have to be mindful of texture memory constraints so this isnt a viable approach:
The ideal solution would be to support multiple projections in one texture, with manual or automatic packing. Unfortunately, due to game production pressures, we couldnt justify the time to create a proper workflow to support that.
Also, the amount of wasted or unused pixels in the texture is likely to be quite large. Therefore, our solution was to
use regular UV mapping for some parts of the mesh (usually anything which did not produce the kind of UV artifacting
which required us to use projective UV interpolation).
So, our matte painting shader was split into two in-game shaders which are identical, except that one uses regular UVs
with quadrilateral interpolation and one uses our previously discussed projective approach. These will be referred
to as the Projection Shader and the UV Shader (in real world terms we used an ubershader approach with multiple
discreet features). What we would do here is render our overlapping parallax layers out in two separate images; we
would then composite them in such a way that the objects in each painting are not overlapping (in this case by moving
only the Red teapot into unused space on the image):
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Now, using the same approach as our very first initial render, we do a camera-space projection for the object UVs (in
our case using the Camera Map modifier in 3DS Max) and then manually offset the UVs to align to the correct part of
the texture by eye :
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This results in an image which doesnt have incorrect projection artifacts when viewed from an angle that is quite different to the original cameras position and orientation:
However, using the UV Shader does reintroduce the triangular seams we had before we added perspective UV interpolation to the Projection Shader, as were using quadrilateral UV interpolation again. Luckily, those interpolation
artifacts dont appear universally across all pieces of geometry, so our approach was to use the Projection Shader as
infrequently as possible and only where UV interpolation artifacts were obviously present, and to try to use the UV
Shader as the dominant method.
This worked very well for us and allowed us to get the same quality with one matte painting texture as we would,
in one particular case, have otherwise needed up to 11 separate paintings to eliminate the same parallax artifacts.
In some cases though (below), if either the shot presented too severe perspective distortion issues or there wasnt
enough unused space on the texture sheet we did also split different depth layers up into separate paintings:
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Top: Artist-delivered matte painting with several overlapping layers. Bottom: Final texture used in the game. Note that
the bottom-left and bottom-right segments of the final texture remain in the same place as they are projected using
the Projection Shader, all other depth layers in the image have been repositioned to fit on the same texture page with
no overlapping so that they can use the UV Shader.
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Ingame screenshot.
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Conclusion
In summary, this approach allowed us to use extremely cheap lowpoly geometry, shaded using an extremely cheap
shader (yet, unfortunately, using quite a high resolution DXT1 texture, usually 1024x2048 or above on last-gen) to provide very convincing distant vistas in the game. We provided the game with richly detailed backdrops for a reasonably
minimal realtime performance cost and I would strongly recommend the approach to anyone looking to fulfill similar
goals on any time frame, budget, or platform. The development time for each matte painting was reasonably minimal,
averaging around a week for offline geometry/shading/lighting setup and rendering, a day or two for concept art paintover and a couple of hours for in-game implementation.
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The development time for each matte painting was reasonably minimal, averaging around a week for offline geometry/shading/lighting setup and rendering, a day or two for concept art paintover and a couple of hours for in-game
implementation.
About Me
Tomasz Stachowiak
About Me
Im a Technical Artist at Creative Assembly and have been working in
games for around 5 years. I am 26 years old and currently live in Brighton, UK.
Mark Sneddon
Ive always been a huge fan of science fiction, so the chance to work on
an Alien game was a dream come true for me. I worked on Alien: Isolation for around 3.5 years mostly on PBR materials\shading development,
art tools, matte paintings, and performance optimisation.
Alien: Isolation, Alien, Aliens, Alien 3 TM & 2014 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved. Twentieth Century Fox, Alien, Aliens, Alien 3 and their associated logos are registered trademarks or trademarks of Twentieth
Century Fox Film Corporation.
Alien: Isolation game software, excluding Twentieth Century Fox elements SEGA. Developed by The Creative Assembly Limited. Creative Assembly and the Creative Assembly logo are either registered trade marks or trade marks of The
Creative Assembly Limited. SEGA and the SEGA logo are either registered trade marks or trade marks of SEGA Corporation. All rights reserved.
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Gilberto Magno
www.artstation.com/artist/gilbertomagno
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Cathleen McAllister
www.artstation.com/artist/catconcepts
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Introduction
In this tutorial, I will describe my approach for creating highpoly models that are used as source meshes for ingame
bakes. I will show you how I handle creating highpoly assets from the initial design to the final model. In addition, I
will go into detail on a few key techniques that will help you to quickly add detail to your models and become more
efficient when working. Specifically, you will learn how to Spline-deform, UV-deform and use Zbrush to cut holes into
your meshes and fill them with detailpieces.
Mindset
Being an artist in a game team usually means that I have to deal with tight deadlines and can`t afford to waste time
at any stage in the process. I always need to be aware of how much time I have to finish a task. As a rule of thumb for
estimating how long it takes to finish an asset, I usually multiply my initial estimate by the factor of 1,5 in an established
production environment (defined art-style, working pipeline, no technical challenges to be expected) or by the factor
of 2,5 when working in a new production environment (art-style / design not set in stone, pipeline not fully in place,
technical challenges to be expected) as there are always challenges that will come up during production. A good mindset when giving time estimates is to underpromise and overdeliver.
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Game development is, by nature, an iterative process. Consequently, I need to be flexible and work in a way that allows me to react to changes quickly. Whenever I create something, I try to do it in a nondestructive way and set up
my work so that I can modify it easily later on.
Lastly, I want to be able to hit a certain level of detail and quality without spending a lot of time while doing so. This is
where experience and technique is important. You want to focus on working smarter, not harder. I will explain several
useful techniques later on that help with this.
To summarize, here is what you should focus on when creating any game asset:
- Underpromise and overdeliver when giving time estimations
- Be flexible and work non destructively so that you can react to changes quickly
- Work smarter, not harder by learning some tricks and techniques
Modularity: When designing an asset, I`ll make sure to use as much modularity within it as possible. This saves me a
lot of time as I only need to add detail to each module once. I work with references so that each module automatically updates when changing it. In addition, modules will save me modeling-, baking- and texturing time later on in
production.
The following image shows a breakdown of the individual modules used on this asset. Notice how simple the general
shapes are. It is not very time consuming for me to model these shapes as they are simple and thus I can iterate on
them very fast as I will rely on my detail library to add interesting design elements later on. At this stage, I am purely
focusing on the basic shapes and I am going from big shapes to small shapes until I have something that reads well
from various distances. I am focusing on the silhouette and the general shape language and readability without getting caught up in any detail work.
Symmetry: Symmetry is another powerful design technique that allows me to quickly achieve results without having
to model many unique parts. I try to make use of it as much as possible given that the design of the asset allows it.
Keep in mind that you can always make individual symmetrized elements unique by adding floaters or giving them
their own unique texture space in the final lowpoly.
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When working from preexisting concepts, I usually talk to my art director and concept artist before starting to model
it and ask if I can simplify elements or add modularity and symmetry. As long as the general look and feel of the asset
stays the same, people are usually pretty open and allow you to change things to make your life a little easier. Time is
money so I always try to make sure to be as efficient as I can - if slightly changing the look of the asset it will save me a
great deal of work I wont hesitate to suggest that and get approval.
Flexibility: When modeling, I want to be able to modify my mesh quickly so that I can iterate fast. This means that I try
to keep the control cage as light as possible. I try to avoid control edges and dense tesselation as much as I can so that
I can modify the major shapes without having to deal with a lot of geometry.
There are various ways of achieving this. Most modeling tools today support open subdiv which allows you to crease
your edges giving them weight/hardness without having to use support edges. If you are on an older version of 3d
Studio Max, you can also use different smoothing groups on your geometry with two turbosmooth modifiers on top.
Whenever two different smoothing groups meet is where you will have a hard edge in your highpoly.
In the following image, notice how light the control cages are on the left side and how you can still achieve hard edges
in the highpoly using opensubdiv or two turbosmooth modifiers.
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In order to get the most out of your library, make sure to stick to the following rules for your library pieces:
- Evenly tesselate each detail piece so that it will support deformation without showing any pinching or artifacts.
Each detail piece should be able to deform into extreme angles like circles or spirals without showing any pinching
or mesh artifacts.
- Create a beginning, middle and end piece for pieces that can vary in size. Think about creating a starting piece, a
tiling middle piece and then an end piece for pieces that will not always be used tiling with themselves, like a hand
rail.
- Make sure to design tiling pieces and patterns when you can in order to allow them to be used in as many
situations as possible. Each detailpiece should be generic enough that you can change the length / height easily.
- Add unique detail pieces to your library as well. If you add these to your library, other people can try to use them
in different locations and use the to quickly kitbash a new asset.
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Deforming library pieces and using them on the model: There are many techniques that I use to deform my detail
pieces. The most basic one is using a Bend modifier in combination with an FFD modifier. First, I select the flat piece
detail geometry. Then, I apply an FFD modifier and give it some vertical deformation by moving the control points in the
FFD modifier up. After that, I apply the Bend modifier to get the radial deformation. Once I am happy with the shape,
I apply turbosmooth modifiers to subdivide it. I am using the previously described technique using smoothing groups
to create hard edges on the geometry.
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Almost all of the circular-shaped detail pieces on my mesh have been created this way. Having an FFD modifier on the
mesh before applying the bend modifier is great as this allows you to modify the angle of your detail piece lateron and
it helps you to easily line it up with other objects. If you are working in 3d Studio max, check out the Bend of Brothers
maxscript. This script makes deforming assets super quick and is quite user friendly. There is a great tutorial for it here.
Using Paths to deform your geometry: Another way that I use to deform geometry is using splines. Splines are quite
powerful and give you a very precise deformation. Almost all 3d authoring tools have a spline deformation function
and you should be able to replicate the results by following these simple steps. On my mesh, I want to add a handlebar
that follows the curvature of a specific edge. First, I create an edge loop on the target geometry that represents the
curvature that I want the detail geometry to follow .
Since I want to use a spline deformer to deform the handlebar, I need to convert the selected edge into a spline. With the
edge on my object selected, I click the Create Shape from Selection button under Edit Edges in the Editable Polygon
modifier. This opens up a dialogue bar that asks me if I want to
create a Smooth or Linear shape type. In this case, I choose
Smooth as I want to create a spline based on the smoothed
version of the selected edge loop. If I would select Linear, it
would create an exact copy of the edge selection, including the
hard transitions between the vertices which I want to avoid.
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After clicking OK, the spline will be created in the exact location of the selected edge loop. I make sure to reset X-Form
on the spline, otherwise the next step will not work correctly. I select the handlebar mesh and apply a Path Deform
WSM modifier to it. In the modifier, I click on Pick Path and select the spline that I have just created.
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Using UV`s to deform your geometry: One of my favorite ways of deforming detail geometry is using UV coordinates.
Here is an overview of the process:
1. Unwrap the area of your highpoly mesh that you want to add detail to
2. Convert the UV coordinates into geometry using the slideknit script.
3. Arrange the detailgeometry on top of the uv geometry and apply a skin wrap modifier using the UV`s as a control
surface
4. Morph the UV coordinates back into their original shape which will deform the detail geometry into the same shape
Step One: First, I need to select an area on the highpoly that I want to add my detail geometry onto. For this example,
I chose the front face of the following piece. I create a UV Layout for this area by using a quick planar map and aligning
the UV`s. I make sure the final UV layout has a rectangular outline so that it matches the outline of the detail geometry
that I want to deform.
Next, I detach the area that I have just unwrapped and turbosmooth the new mesh. I am doing this for two reasons.
Firstly, the turbosmoothed shape is the shape that I want to morph the detail geometry into. Secondly, I need the UV
geometry to be dense enough so that it has enough points used for derforming the detail geometry. Turbosmoothing gives me that density. If the UV geometry is not dense enough, the final deformation would result in artifacts and
would not give you a smooth result.
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Step Two: First, you need to install the Slideknit script. Once its downloaded, place it in the following folder: C:\
Program Files\Autodesk\3ds Max 2015\UI_ln\MacroScripts. Run it once by selecting MAXScript - Run Script and then
select the SlideTools-SlideKnit.mcr from the folder above. This will make the script appear in the Main UI under the
SlideTools category. Either assign a hotkey or create a button in your UI for the script.
With the turbosmoothed and unwrapped geometry selected, I run the slideknit script which brings up the SlideKnit
Script Dialogue. As I have used UV Channel 1 to unwrap my mesh, I will use it in the first box. The second box - UV
scale - allows you to scale the newly created piece of geometry. If you unwrap your geometry in the 0-1 area, a value
of 100.0 usually works pretty well. Next, I click on Unwrap selected to create the Deformer Piece based on the UV
Geometry. I make sure that the newly created piece roughly matches the scale of the highpoly in order to avoid too
much scaling when morphing pieces. If you ever encounter too much scaling, then play around with the UV Scale value
in the SlideKnit script until you get geometry that matches in scale.
Step Three: Once I have created the UV geometry, all I need to do is move the detail geometry on top of the UV geometry and align their outlines. I do this by scaling the detail geometry to roughly match the shape of the uv geometry.
Once they are in the same ballpark, I apply a FFD modifier and match their outlines. I then collapse the FFD modifier
and Reset X-Form on my detail geometry to get rid of the scale values on it. This is important, as any other values other
than 100 will give you errors in the following steps.
I make sure that the two pieces are close to each other and then select the detail geometry. I need to apply a Skin
Wrap modifier to it.
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Checking in with the art director: Up to this point, everything on my mesh can be changed easily as most of my pieces
are built using modifiers or have been deformed in a non destructive way. The control cage of each module is very light
which means I can easily change the major shapes.
Before moving forward, with adding additional small scale detail, I make sure to talk to my art director and get him or
her to sign off on the mesh in its current state. All of the remaining work will be done in Zbrush on dynameshed subtools which means the design of the asset needs to be locked down to prevent major rework later on.
Using dynamesh to create evenly tessellated objects: At this stage, I will bring every object into Zbrush and dynamesh
it so that I have an evenly tesselated basemesh to work with. Dynameshing gives me the flexibility of not having to
worry about poly distribution as I polymodel. Once I run dynamesh, it will create an evenly tesselated object for me. In
order to make sure that each dynameshed object is dense enough for me to sculpt on, I use Dynamesh Master with a
resolution of around 3-4 million polygons depending on the size of the object.
Using alphas and brushes to add detail: Comparable to the detail mesh library, I have a big library of Zbrush alphas
generated from various meshes. These vary from fairly small and generic geometric shapes like triangles or circular
indents to more custom alphas like exhaust turbines or air intakes.
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Creating a custom alpha for Zbrush is really easy. First, I create my geometric shape in 3d Studio max. I make sure
that the shape is embedded into a flat surface so that I get an alpha with a flat background when generating it later in
Zbrush. On the left, you can see how simple the geometry actually is and on the right you can see the turbosmoothed
version.
Next, I need to bring in the highpoly geometry for the alpha created earlier. Once I have it in the viewport, I scale it
up until the geometry fills the entire screen. The easiest way to do this is importing the obj, placing it in the viewport
and then scaling it using the Scale button on the right side of your screen. After that, I to click on the Alpha button on
the left side of the screen and select Grab doc on the lower right side of the Alpha menu. This saves the viewport as
an Alpha image into your alpha palette. If you want to save the alpha, use the Export button in your Alpha palette to
save it or just create a new brush for the alpha and save that.
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To paint with this brush, I either use the Drag Dot stroke mode if I want to keep the size the same across the mesh or
by using the Drag Rect stroke mode if I need to be more precise in placing the alphas. You can achieve great results
by just using alphas and Zadding / Zsubtracting them onto your mesh. The advantage of doing your detail this way instead of with floating pieces of geometry is that when you bake down the texture onto your mesh you will not have to
deal with shadow artifacts from floaters in your ambient occlusion bake. In addition, if you want to use a height map
for tesselation or parallax occlusion mapping, you will not have to adjust the height value of your details for correct
displacement.
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Carving out areas of your highpoly: Often times, I want to carve specific detail pieces into the highpoly mesh on a
curved surface. Polygon modelling this would be very time consuming. A quicker way to do it is to create a piece of
geometry that matches the outline of your detail piece and subtract that piece from your highpoly mesh in Zbrush.
Using this technique, I don`t have to deal with any pinching or other types of artifacts on the highpoly geometry. In
the long run, this saves me a lot of modeling time.
In the following image, you can see the basic setup for this operation. I have the highpoly mesh (grey, front transparent for visibility) and the detail object (red) as well as the outline object (blue). I position the detail object with the
carving object on the highpoly mesh at the location where I want it to be carved into the mesh. I used the spline deformer technique described earlier to position it and make it follow the curvature of my highpoly mesh.
Next, I export all objects to Zbrush individually and append them to the same subtool. I position the highpoly mesh
on top of the carving object and hide the detail object in the SubTool palette for now. I select the carving object and
make sure the second button from the left is enabled in the SubTool palette. This tells Zbrush to subtract the carving
object from the highpoly when dynameshing.
With these settings, I select the highpoly and merge it down onto the carving object. All I need to do now is run dynamesh with the desired settings and the new mesh will have a hole subtracted where my carving object used to be.
As I want to refine the edge some more, I mask it and run Polish on this area to get a nicer bevel on the edge. I can
see the final result by unhiding my detail geometry.
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Panel lines: To add panel lines to my mesh, I use the MAHCUT brushes. I specifically like the MAHcut Mech A brush.
This brush is great as it creates a sharp outline for the panel lines which is what I want. Since I am working on symmetrical objects, I can use the Radial Symmetry feature on those brushes to achieve some nice looking results in certain
areas. From this point on, all I do is further add detail using alphas, the MAHcut brushes and the described carving
technique until I am happy with the level of detail on my object.
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I`ve now given you an overview of my general approach and workflow when it comes to creating highpoly models. To
summarize, here are the individual steps that I went through
Creating the basic highpoly modules.
In this first step, I focused on creating the main modules for my asset. I tried creating an interesting silhouette for each
module and just focused on simple, readable shapes. Try to keep the control surfaces simple by using Open Subdiv,
the 2x turbosmooth modifier technique or similar workflows Make use of Symmetry to save time if the design of the
asset allows it.
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About Me
Simon Fuchs
w w w . s i m o n f u c h s . n e t
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Sam Burton
www.artstation.com/artist/sleepfight
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Alexey Egorov
www.artstation.com/artist/air-66
Art Direction
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Art Direction
What separates personal work from professional work? A lot of people would answer that question by saying something along the lines of professionals get paid, personal work is a hobby, and to an extent, thats true. But my question
is, why do they have to be different? Ive noticed that people always seem to specify the type of work they do. Student
work, professional work, personal work, freelance work, etc. Why cant it just be work?
I dont really have a problem with this. I just find it interesting that we break each one into its own category: depending on the location, time in our lives, and whether we get paid or not. My answer to the question is that you can define
them differently by when you did them, but there shouldnt be anything different about the work itself. Personal should
be of the same quality and demand the same focus that your professional work does. It can take longer or be of a different style or even be in a different medium, but they should both be treated with the same amount of respect. Here
are things that I do to try to maintain that equality.
Throughout my career, Ive always enjoyed doing personal artwork while Im at home. I have seen plenty of other artists do this and an equal amount have little interest in it. Personally, I need it. It helps keep me sane, refreshes me on
techniques that I may be rusty on, lets me try new techniques before I bring them into the professional arena, lets me
take home some things I have learned at work to try on a project of my own, but most of all is very fun and satisfying.
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But it isnt always easy. For every one project Ive finished,
I probably have another 10 sitting unfinished on my hard
drive. Hundreds of sketches and ideas just sitting around
that have barely scratched the surface, or were scratched
just deep enough to let me get a taste and know that I
didnt want to go any further.
In my professional work, I always finish on time and usually finish pretty strong. Yet, when I just started doing personal work, sometimes I found myself falling into the trap
of feeling unfocused or just unsure of what the next step
should be. Other times, I just gave up. It was depressing
after a while when you dont produce anything worth
that time investment.
But why was that? I was doing the same things for my
professional work as I did in my personal work, yet there
was a disconnect that made one more difficult than the
other.
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Alright, now we know what were looking for and we need to actually find it. Were going to make reference and mood
boards for every project were going to make from now on. And, were going to look at them. A lot. Make sure that the
images you are putting in them reflect the terms you chose above. Reference and mood boards are very common and
really simple to make. Find images that fit what you want your final product to look like, or inspire you to get there
and put them on a giant photoshop document. Lots of artists do these, but a lot of artists that do these forget they
have them after the first few days of working on a project. You made it for a reason! Look at it! If you have to print
it out and put it on your wall next to your monitors, do that, but have them up otherwise they arent worth making.
Reference Board
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Lastly, and while were on the topic of having things to look at for our projects, lets talk about putting things in your
office space. You should strive to make your office space a place you like to be in.
I know this sounds silly, but it can really affect your ability to focus. Think of your desk at work or school. Now think
of your desk at home. Do they look the same? How different are they? Why? I have a cloned machine that matches
exactly what I have at work. This way, I know that whatever quality Im working on at work can be done at home. I do
however have one difference. Ive found that distractions can really effect me at home so I only work on one monitor.
Its a 30 monitor, so it has some extra real estate and I can have both photoshop and Zbrush or Maya next to each
other and its really not that bad. At work, there are people all around me working and it makes it easy to get into the
zone. At home, its just me. It might not work for you, but it works better for me when I dont have Facebook sitting on
the second monitor half the time.
As for the workspace itself, I have some things that I like to have handy at all times. As a character artist, I find that I am
always needing to be reminded of human proportions and anatomy. What I like to do is have some of those fundamentals around. Pinned, framed or taped to my walls as well as having statues and some quality reference books nearby.
But dont make it too sterile, I also have fun statues and posters from movies and games. This is your space and you
should enjoy it. Next, invest in a nice chair. Trust me, youll be sitting in it a lot more if you like it. Have some sketchpads
and pens around. Yes, I know you can type words into notepad, or in Photoshop, but nothing matches the real thing.
And, you can take it with you to the bathroom and take it to the couch when youre tired of sitting at the desk.
Home Setup
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Alright, weve got ourselves set up with our terms, our boards, and our desk and workplace is exactly how we want it.
NOW ready to get to work! Now that weve got everything set up, I wanted to bring up something that is a pet peeve
of mine. Personal work is not all about speed. Yes, being a fast artist is an asset. But its not the only asset. Ive seen
a lot of people post images and say this is xx minutes and thats great for a speed exercise. But when we are at our
real jobs, thats not how it works. Since we are trying to emulate a work environment, we should probably not care as
much about how long it took to make something and just focus on making quality work.
With most of my personal projects, I try not to keep a timeline. Other times I will participate in a contest or give myself
a deadline. Deadline or no deadline, we should still be able to pull back and look critically about our work. Heres some
easy things I do to help me keep a fresh eye on work at home:
Take a Break
Paint Overs
Like I mentioned above, we are aiming to be our own art directors and we should do the same things an art director
would do for us. So what is one typical job of an art director? Paint overs. Its pretty simple, take a screenshot of your
model and paint on top of it in photoshop. You can go the extreme of what you think the final should be and do a full
on final painting, or you can just give yourself call outs and notes. Once you do this, save it and put it in that file with
the reference boards. Paint overs are a way to jot down notes to yourself as well. You dont have to fix all the problems
there, its just a way to think about it from a different angle.
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Just because you are working at home and dont have co-workers or bosses to give you notes doesnt mean you cant
ask other people you know! Get out there on a forum or Facebook and post your work. Ask for feedback. Prepare for
some ruthlessly, brutal and honest feedback. The internet does strange things to people and they will tell you exactly
what they think. Usually but not in a malicious way, most are truly trying to help. Dont get offended. If youre not to
the point where you want to show it to someone, send it to friends for feedback. This surprisingly took me a long time
to do. I dont like people seeing my work when it isnt finished. Im afraid they will think Im a fraud because when Im
showing it to them, it sucks, and I know it sucks, and I know they will think it sucks. But find some friends that can give
you a velvet punch and some solid feedback. It will help you a LOT!
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Challenge Yourself
At work, every project comes with its own challenges. Work at home should, too. Sure, sometimes you just want to
do a study, or sculpt your favorite thing, but even within that you should be able to find a way to make it more interesting and to push yourself. With Silver Surfer, I wanted to try to redesign a character like we do at work. I specifically
chose a character that hadnt ever been re-designed and was a challenge. Along with that, I wanted to put into practice some things about hard surface character design that I felt I had gotten from my work on Avengers and Iron Man
3. When I look at it now, I still see things I would change, but overall Im pleased with it because I know how much
thought I put into it and it was a big challenge.
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Do Something New
Go outside, go travel, go see something. Go read an amazing book or see a film you know nothing about. Go experience something new. I went on a walking tour of LA and learned about Art Deco buildings and how and why they
were made. I thought I would hate it, but it was amazing! I went to Europe on my honeymoon and saw the beauty
of Paris, the incredible history and strife of the Irish, and the Dutch just being really cool to everyone in Amsterdam.
Each place made me think of 50 new thoughts or ideas to add to my list of things I find interesting (in my sketchpad).
I will choose a random highly rated audiobook and listen to it on a long car ride or even while working (Night Circus,
Ready Player One, Boneshaker to name a few). In the age of the internet and pinterest where everyone is re-pinning
pins of pins and looking at the same artwork, go find something new. Keep it to yourself and make those ideas yours.
Thats it. Its that simple. Okay, maybe not. You still have to do the actual work! But, hopefully, this can put you on a
path thats better and more focused that you are right now. Some of these options might not work for you,and thats
okay! They are just suggestions that work for me. At the end of the day, its more important that you find your own
ways to create a focus, be comfortable, and push yourself to the same limits that you do at work.
About Me
My name is Josh Herman and Im a character sculptor for Marvel Studios. Ive been working in the entertainment industry for 5 years and
have worked in all types of media from film, to games, to collectibles on
titles like: The Avengers, Guardians of the Galaxy, Uncharted 3: Drakes
Deception and many others.
Im a massive comic book and movie nerd, but enjoy games even more.
If its considered nerdy, I probably like it. I also love teaching and have
taught a lot of classes and workshops such as CGworkshops, CDA, Stan
Winston School, and Gnomon and I plan to continue that as long as I
can.
Josh Herman
www.PolyGroupAcademy.com
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Ali Zafati
www.artstation.com/artist/zaliti
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Andrey Tkachenko
www.artstation.com/artist/atdesign
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Intro
In this article, Im going to write a little about the post Marvelous Designer workflow and a few techniques that can be
useful in getting your cloth sim into Zbrush for additional work. Beyond that, I will be giving a brief overview of pattern
layout in MD with UVs in mind, and finally what can be achieved with a few displacement maps, taking advantage of
those UVs in Zbrush.
Other artists have written some top information on MD in this edition of vertex, so I will avoid the basics. I will mention
just one or two things that I usually do while creating simulations, before we get on to the main body of the article, just
to give you more options with your setup when creating in the software. I often work in real world CM measurements
for characters. I find that scaling avatars up 130% before import gives me better crease definition at reasonable particle
distances. MDs scale is fixed and it will essentially treat a larger avatar as a bigger object. I also adjust the simulation
thickness of my fabric to 1mm from 3mm unless I am creating something particularly heavy such as thick leather. I
adjust the avatars skin offset to 1mm from 3mm also, (Avatar> Avatar Properties> skin offset) as this will help when
morphing in extra garment layers or anything else that interacts with the cloth surface. I always smooth anything that
I import to MD to interact with the cloth. At the lowest particle distances, the cloth can pick up on any lower poly geo
and mimic the facets as it drapes over the surface. I think that the real trick to MD is knowing when to cut and run, getting a feel for how far you can go with the program before its better to move on. I have lost more time trying to keep
complex multi layered garments under control than I can count, and prefer to avoid complex stitching now in favor of
doing any hemming effects and extra detail in Zbrush after laying down a few internal lines as a guide and to alter the
pattern as though there were a stitch there. Anyway, onwards.
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Body
Final garment with displacement applied. Extra equipment modelled in Max and Zbrush
Im going to start assuming that you have already created a garment in MD to a standard that you are happy with or
have selected a pre-made pattern from an in-house library of base templates. Most concepts will have something interacting with the garment, such as straps, webbing, additional garments, or protective clothing. MDs morph target
feature will allow you to simulate in objects that may trap or alter the creasing of your garment and offer a cleaner
workflow for additional garments rather than creating, layering, and simulating all in one scene which can make the
scene very sluggish very quickly.
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Im going to use a Dropleg harness as an example for bringing in straps and webbing to interact with your garment.
I model out the basic webbing pattern in max over the basemesh that I am using as an avatar. Because the cloth will
need room to simulate under this geo, I tend to keep an offset of about 10 mm from the avatar surface. The modeling
can be as rough or as polished as you like at this stage, its really just there to create creasing. Once the webbing geo is
created, its attached to a copy of the avatar. This, in turn, is cloned and the webbing geo is pushed out. I tend to bring
in an OBJ of the basic garment at this point. Its important that the pushed geo doesnt intersect with the garment that
its going to be used with. This should leave you with two meshes to export as avatars, one with the webbing in the
correct position, and one altered to make a good starting base for the morph
From basemesh, to basic webbing model, then to pushed and scaled webbing. Making sure that these parts are
smoothed will ensure no faceting artifacts in the simulation.
To set up the morph, import first the pushed mesh into MD and load as avatar. Adjust the skin offset as mentioned
previously in the property editor (this adjustment will carry through to the morph target when loaded). Next, import
the avatar with the webbing in the intended final position, but load this as a morph target. Double check that your scale
settings are using the same units between both avatars, (I always use centimeters) and hit ok. This will begin the morph
process, depending on particle distance this could take some time. Better get a coffee.
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It may take a few goes to get your fabric not to intersect with the avatars it constricts. This is just a case of
going back into your 3d package and adjusting the target mesh a little, exporting that back out and repeating the morph process.
Personally, I keep the particle distance low for morphing and wont step back up to anything high after
the morph is complete, as this tends to allow the cloth
a chance to intersect with the avatar and becomes
quite a mess. Major garment intersections with the avatar can be fixed by adjusting the target mesh in your
favorite 3d package and repeating the morph process
until you achieve the desired result. Finally, re-import
the morph target as an avatar. MD will remember the
pre morph avatar if you save at this point. Leaving a
morph target in place can cause export crashes later
on.
A note on the belt loops: after the belt was morphed into place the loop patterns were selected and reset to 3D arrangement, (right click on selected pattern in 3d view for menu, or Ctrl-f) these were then positioned close to the garment before re-simulation so that the fabric didnt distort too far in the stitching phase of the sim. Once completed,
the pins holding up the trousers were removed and the garment simulated again to give the look that the garment
hangs off the belt. More often than not, I find that this morphing technique is useful for adding additional garments
to your scene. It just requires a little pre planning. As an example, I will add a kneepad to the trousers from a separately created MD project file. Rather than either creating the garment in the same scene as the trousers and hoping
to simulate over them, or creating the kneepad in a separate scene then again bringing the garment in to simulate. I
prefer to bring in the garment as a morph target as this gives cleaner, more precise cloth trapping and keeps your main
scene uncomplicated. When generating the kneepad, I use the same base human avatar as used in the trouser scene.
However, I give the mesh a 10mm push knowing that this garment will sit on top of the other one. It gives space for
the underlying fabric to sit without intersections. I, then, generate the kneepad as standard.
Kneepad additional internal lines are added at points of stitching and a little pressure is used to simulate padding.
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Its worth noting that as this garment is final, I have rearranged the pattern into a reasonable UV layout for
later use. I tend to draw out a square pattern and fit
the garment pieces as tightly into that as possible. MD
will take the outermost points and square them off to
create your UV boundaries. MDs free, perfectly relaxed
high poly UVs are a great little bonus. The kneepad is
exported, decimated in Zbrush, and then used in the
same morph process as mentioned before ie; attached
to the avatar mesh, cloned, and pushed appropriately
before importing both generated avatars into MD for
morphing.
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UV layout/export sets for Trousers, I will also grab a snapshot of the layout to help use as a guide later for additional
details in Photoshop.
To get the parts into Zbrush, I make sure the weld tolerance is set all the way up at 0.01 ..(wow) before import. Once I
have all the meshes in, there are two options for clean up ready to sculpt, depending on whether you have quadrangular and want the High poly UVs intact.
The imported garment in Zbrush, showing the layer separation and the all important weld tollerance
The first method assumes that you dont want the UVs. Duplicate the mesh, ZRemesh with freeze borders checked,
subdivide and Project against the original subtool that you have duplicated, repeat until you have captured the detail
of the simulation delete the lower subdivisions, then panel loop. I generally use/alter the following settings:
Polish : 0
Loops : 5
Bevel : 20
And most importantly elevation: - (minus) 100
Elevation decides which way along the normal direction to push the thickness, 100 is out 100 is in. I find that in helps
a lot to get a clean look to your edges. Thickness is obviously subjective, depending on the fabric that you are wanting to replicate and if you have Zbrushs scale correct. Once panel looped, if the interior of the garment is not visible,
I tend to delete the internal polygroup. This reduces point count and avoids complications in the mesh from pulling
through back faces while sculpting.
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Panel looping the imported garment pieces to achieve crisp edges and a readable thickness to the cloth
I will avoid going over the basics of cloth sculpting here, as the major creases have already been provided through MD.
Generally, with an MD over-sculpt, you are adding wear, memory creases, and stitching to the garment, giving it a bit of
life. Depending on the look you are going for, you may even just sharpen up whats already there for a clean, graphic
style. I tend to do a first pass getting in some of the interaction at seams, which can be tricky to generate in MD using
the elastic feature, and adding/adjusting creasing what was lacking in the original simulation. I prefer to use a standard
brush with alpha 37 at a mid teens intensity and a clay brush with a very low intensity, building up some edges, and
deepening other depressions. I often increase the volumes in trapped areas with the move brush, too. Places, such as
between the kneepad straps, really benefit from a bit of exaggeration just to give a more interesting silhouette. Once
thats completed, I cheat a bit, creating memory creasing with an adjusted crumpled paper alpha which I then smooth
out or work into, depending on the area and the look that I want. Finally, I will add stitching using a stitch IMM brush
that I picked up on the internet a while back. Using an IMM allows you to keep point counts sensible on the garment
being stitched and can be polypainted to create a stitch mask for later texturing.
Before and after of the extra detail sculpted into the garment
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The second method assumes that you do require the UV sets that MD provides, opening up possibilities to create
details via displacement maps. Simply import the quadrangulate mesh as before and panel loop as above. Subdivide
as necessary to capture the detail in any applied displacement. This method isnt as sculpt friendly as completely remeshing, but I would assume that if you are making use of the UVs then sculpting will at best be to add detail rather
than to make drastic form changes. This method is excellent where you have the target engine map resolution to
show accurate stitching and fabric surface patterns.
Displacement used in Zbrush to capture stitch and weave details Zbrush flips vertically the UVs of the imported mesh
so be sure to do the same with any displacement maps used.
To generate a template to work with in Ps, I grab a UV snapshot of the MD mesh from max, showing only the border
edges. This gives me something to line up the screen grab previously obtained from the MD 2D pattern view. Alternatively, you could subdivide the mesh a few times in Zbrush, drop back down the subdivisions and bake out a displacement in Zbrush. This will give you a decent enough greyscale image to use as a guide, but is a little less precise than
compositing the UV and pattern view snapshots together. I use a combination of custom pattern fill layers for weave
and fabric detail, and vector paths for stitching, which I stroke with one of a selection of stitch brushes that I have
acquired here and there.
Once completed, I place the displacement maps to the relevant meshes in Zbrush and sculpt additional details into
the cloth, such as depressions and gather points caused by the stitching, and memory creases. One of the main advantages of using displacement for stitching and weave detail, is that its non-destructive. Until applied to the mesh, it
can be sculpted into/under without distorting or damaging the detail, allowing you to bed the stitching into the fabric.
If the stitch isnt reading well then you can easily adjust the size and spacing in Photoshop.
It does negate the possibility of large sculptural changes to your garment, and your workflow may not require an
extreme level of micro detail in the high poly. Once I am happy that the detail is reading well and I have sculpted
everything that I want, the final step is to bake the displacement information down, creating additional subdivisions
if necessary, to hold the details. To make sure that I have a mask for things such as stitches, I create a colored version
of the displacement map, apply as a texture, and create polypaint from texture in the polypaint dropdown of the tool
pallet. This will allow me to bake out vertex color for selection masks during texturing.
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1) The mesh imported from MD, panel looped and subdivided. 2) Displacement map placed. 3) Displacement and additional sculpt work. 4) Sculpt work alone, displacement turned off. 5) Displacement applied to mesh, colored map
applied and baked to polypaint.
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Displacement maps arent just useful for realistic characters. The trousers and pendant on this collectable piece were
made in MD, then sculpted over in Zbrush with the detail added via displacement.
Conclusion
I hope this gives you a good overview of the techniques that you can apply to your MD exports as they transition to
finalized high poly models. Let your art style be the guide as to how far you take the MD stage, and at what point you
pull it into Zbrush for finishing. Thanks for reading.
About Me
Seth Nash
w w w . s e t h n a s h . c o m
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Georgi Simeonov
www.artstation.com/artist/calader
245
Efflam Mercier
www.artstation.com/artist/efflam
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Storytelling
Introduction
Personally, I see vehicles as storytellers. Just think about it; the main character fills up 20 percent of the screen, the rest
is environment and it doesnt matter what sort of game you play. There will be always some sort of vehicles in there.
What really comes up a lot is that most games copy the same vehicles all over the game and just give them different
color textures. That way it doesnt feel like youre crossing the same vehicle over and over again. Vehicles should tell
stories as well, just like characters, weapons and environments do. I wont explain modeling tips, because basically,
everybody can model; it just depends how much you practice and the time you want to put into it.
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If you want a vehicle that you can only use once, yeah go ahead. Imagine the awkward double gas tanks you end up
with then. Thats not what you want in the long run. A car has two sides and you should use this in your advantage.
This could sound strange, but lets take two easy props as examples:
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Its like making a furniture asset and deleting the backsides - that sucks because then youre never able to use the model in different situations. So, lets take the ammo boxes now: by making both sides unique, you can make one model
and get two models for it in return by just rotating it 180 degrees. Super handy for these caliber boxes - knowing you
can bake those almost completely flat.
Adding attachments on these models makes it even harder to spot the fact that its one and the same model. Make
sure that both sides get the same amount of attention if it comes to details. So if this works for assets, why wouldnt it
work for vehicles? Lets take this TATA truck as a quick example.
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We all know that most cars get used for the same function in games: (explosive) cover, and thats okay, but come on
lets be honest. Shooting random places on vehicles shouldnt make the car explode. Yeah, lets shoot the tires, that
will make the car explode! Thats why I added jerry cans - it breaks the symmetry for the vehicle and adds an extra
function to it. By placing the jerry cans only at one place of the vehicle, we create a different shape and function for
both sides. It suddenly becomes something players have to pay attention to before they start firing wild bullets. Thats
something I found awkward in games: Placing a gas truck in an environment and suddenly the tank is the only thing
that can catch on fire. Well, if thats your gameplay design, you should have it for all your vehicles. A mistake I made,
with this design, is that the gas tank is on the same side as the jerry cans. It would have been interesting to have some
fire opportunities on both sides, but in completely different places and heights. Another quick example is the bumper
at the back. One side is bent and some tires are added as a shock bumper - again all to break up symmetry patterns.
For the front, I just placed something on the middle of the symmetry line. That way, the symmetry in the front is a bit
less noticeable - same for the two staircases at the front of the vehicle. Next to this, its good to keep in mind that you
dont put your detail in one straight horizontal line. You add details to break up patterns, so you should try to exaggerate with this. We can take the TATA truck again as an example. The splines attached to the flags are slightly bent.
Lets take this tank as another example. The tires are in such a shape and are placed so that they feel interesting - the
one in the middle and the back are both rotated 35 degrees in X and Y axis, so it breaks up the pattern, and even more
importantly, adds something to the silhouette instead of just being a local extrusion of the body. To go even further
with this idea, I started adding sandbags in the tires that were completely horizontal so that these felt more like an
extension of the vehicle; while rotated ones are empty, to really catch depth into them. Something else you will notice
is one of the antennas is bent, again - to break up patterns.
Personality
If you make a vehicle, you always ask yourself the question: Is it going to be animated? First person or third person?
Is it just a prop to take cover at? I like to get these questions answered right away. Whats so good about vehicles is
that they are completely symmetrical and have a lot of blank spaces. All the time you save with this, you can spend
coming up with an original design and filling it up with details. Jerry Cans, Boxes, backpacks, sacks, Warning Triangles,
Water Barrels, Ammo Boxes, Cables, Ropes, Spa retires, Reserve pieces , Communications pieces, Broken Car Glass
etc. Okay, maybe its not always easy to find unique ideas, but a good idea is to search for vehicle dioramas. Hobby
people put a lot of work into making their piece memorable. Everybody can go to a store and buy a vehicle assembly
box, but making it stand out is something different, so keep an eye on such a piece.
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Pay close attention to the wide range of props they use to give vehicles some story and the color palette they use for
props in contrast against the de-saturated models.
A mistake a lot of people make is going for a fully organic detailed model (backpacks, Sacks, Clothes, etc.) or a total
hard surface model (Radios - hand tools, crates) etc. Thats not something you want. You want to break up your hard
surface model with some organic details. Just dont overdo it. You should try to aim for a 70 - 30. The nice thing about
organic pieces, like cloths and bags, is the wide range of colors you can go for. This breaks up the pattern.
Different Functions
If you make iterations of vehicles, you should ask yourself if you want to change the function of the vehicles. If I put
these three next to each other, you will get the idea that they all have a different function.
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Again, it should be clear that all three of them have a different function. Making different vehicles is really awesome.
For example, I could have made another LMV with half of a truck covered underneath a cloth and an anti aircraft on
the other half - that way I wouldve gotten function for the vehicle. Afterwards, we wouldve been able to take off the
anti aircraft gun and use it as an asset in the game. The limit is just your own imagination. Lets go back to the renders
now. Picture one has a gigantic fuel tank, so it could be used as a potential fire target. Picture two could serve as a
gigantic cover piece or progression blocker, while picture three could have a refill function. The difference between
the first and second picture feels small, but tells a whole different story. The last version maybe feels like a lot of extra
work and feels distant from the two other versions, but thats not true.
I just made one complete LMTV truck and sliced the hood in the middle. I emptied the truck and added a combination
of hard surface and organic props. I finished it off with different height levels, so they look completely different unlike
the first two. And, thats it. Again, I added something to the front or back. In this case both, (there are four extra reserve tires at the back.) to change the complete look. Just to make sure these things work, I always make sure I make
everything from the base vehicle: interior, bottom, etc. Otherwise, trying these things would have been a big risk. For
the front part of the body, you have to make a new lowpoly mesh, of course, but thats it. For the rest, youre able to
get away with the same mesh. We can take another example for generalizing this idea. A city can have hundreds of
different car types, but its a wise decision to build a few of them that are unqiue/typical for that region. Just by retexturing or adding some extra assets to it, you can recreate different vehicles with different functions.
Vehicle Iterations
But, what if we want to make iterations on
these models; just to make the world feel
more alive and less repetitive. Does this take
a lot of time? NO, NOT ALL! Its all about removing and adding details to the former silhouette.
Lets take the Supply tank as an example
again. You still want to make sure that the
player recognizes that model and links it with
restocking ammo. What gives it that specific
silhouette is the cloth shape, so thats something we dont want to ruin. In the next picture, you see a good and bad example.
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Number two is a good example - we remove the cloth, but because of the frame underneath it, we still got the same
silhouette in there. It doesnt take a lot time to switch between these iterations: you just remove/add pieces. Example
number three is not so good. With this one, the wrapped up version, you lose a big chunk of recognition, but at the
same time its just a different interpretation. You can solve this by using a consistent color for the cloths.
Knowing that military vehicles always use a grayish/solid color palette, you can use a bright color for the cloth. That
way players will still recognize this tank and the functions that comes with it. Next, you can break up patterns by moving small props to different positions. As long as you dont break up the silhouette its all okay.
It gets Easier
The first time you do this, it will take some time. The main reason is the fact that you have to make everything from
scratch, but once youre done making your first iterations, it can be handy to save the props/assets you used as details, as a kit-bash kit. What I do to make sure I have enough props, with different sizes and silhouettes props, is I make
at least four iterations of every props. For example:
(4) Backpacks - (4) Pieces cloths - (4) Ammo Crates - (4) Boxes - (4) Radios - (4) Weapons - (4) Cans - (4) Work tools - (4)
Pieces of beverages and food etc.
To make sure this works well, I always make sure that all these assets have unique sides. That way, using the same
prop and rotating it 90 or 180 makes it look a bit different. Next to that, I add some silhouette breakers (small props)
that just have some unique shapes that break up patterns - these are, of course, unique for every vehicle.
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On this beetle, you can see how four organic pieces break up the roof. I just bent and squeezed some of the rolled
up cloth to make it look interesting. Thats only with backpacks. In the next example, you see a wider use of different
props. I always make sure every asset feels flat so that its easy to stack different props onto each other. Baking gets really easy afterwards. Sometimes, I even add extra props to fill up gaps, so I can bake it easier and with a smaller tricount
budget. Its not because its Next Gen you should model every bolt on a crate youre going to add to your vehicle;
instead you should add more crates with the same quality like you would have done before.
(Check VERTEX 1 - Tor Frick article to get more information about this)
Dont forget that all these props that you make are not a waste of time after youve finished your vehicle. They can be
used as environmental props, so dont go into tunnel vision mode and search for really specific vehicle props. You want
to find/design props that can be used over the complete game world afterwards. The bulletproof vest hanging on the
car seat is a bad example of this. It would have been better if I had put a suitcase on the seat instead. For the rest, I am
pretty sure the props can be reused all over the map. The key is just making a wide variaton of props so that dressing
up the vehicle is not a lot of work and you can bring the idea over to the team. That way its also easy for them to see
what props they could use for the environment.
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Civilian/Common Vehicles ?
We have taken some military vehicles as examples, but lets go for some civilian cars now. When I get a random/
normal car assigned, I always go for a combination of clichs and ask myself the same questions over and over again.
- In which environment can I find this vehicle?
- Who would be using it?
- What are the characteristics of this vehicle?
Lets make some examples here. Starting with SUVs, I ask myself the question, who will use this vehicle? FBI/SWAT
etc. This is followed by combining it with a clich: Black SUVs with tinted black glass. Great, we have a design, but
what if we reverse this idea. What SUVs dont have tinted glass/arent black or get used by the FBI? Then, you can go
for an embassy car and add a flag on the hood. That way you have a different iteration of the same car. To make a
different iteration function for it, just go for a different silhouette again. Open the trunk and add some ammo crates,
for example. And, voila, you have another vehicle iteration and another function for it. Lets go for another example
to make it clearer. BMV wagon: Ask the question, what are the characteristics of this vehicle? Super shiny vehicle.
Followed by combining it with a clich: Used by rich people. Again, lets revert this idea. A BMW that doesnt get used
by rich people and can be all dirty. Well, in Eastern countries, you have a lot of beige BMW taxis. Knowing that Mexico
is one of the overseas subsidiaries, we can start working with this idea in mind. Knowing the drug stories, you could
convert your vehicle into a family escape car, filled with precious goods. To make if feel like a Mexican car, you can add
some red/green/yellow festival flags on it and make the overall look dirty. And, voila, we have a unique car design.
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Lets Recap
Lets take one more example where we can combine a lot of techniques we used over the previous steps. The first thing
people always link a pickup truck, with a heavy nose shape, with is America. So, again, go the opposite way with it:
Get away from the patriarchal idea and turn into a rebel car by making the nose as light as possible. That way you can
still add a truck front bumper to it afterwards and use it as a modular piece again. Another characteristic of a pickup
truck is, of course, the tailgate. So, I opened it completely. I used the extension it gave the model to add some extra
assets. Here, I broke the symmetry by adding some jerry cans (those gave an extra explosive/fire opportunity to the
vehicle). I added some more props into the trunk, where one side had completely vertical or horizontal props, while
the other side had some rotated wooden pallets to break up the pattern. I finished the trunk by mounting a machinegun on top of it which adds a lot to the silhouette by letting the ammunition swing a little bit around car shape. To
add some more story and depth, to front of the model, I made a gigantic crack in the window. That way players would
be interested to look in the inside of the vehicle. The inside was finished up by cutting out a piece of the dashboard
and steering wheel so that I could add some airbags. By making these separate objects you would still be able to close
those shapes.
Just to make it even clearer, I made another very quick version of the same vehicle which shows how quickly you are
able to turn a vehicle in another storytelling product. Take a closer look at what happened in the change of the silhouette. I could have gone way further with making a new vehicle out if it. Adding different wheel rims can make a
big difference. Most of the time, you make a separate UV map for these, so you wouldnt lose time adjusting the full
texture of the vehicle.
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Trainmaker:
Making correct tire tracks can take some time. A good script for this is trainmaker 1.5. Which can be found at this link
here. http://www.scriptspot.com/3ds-max/scripts/trainmaker
Working with this script is super easy. Lets go over some basic steps. You start with making your track piece by applying an Xform modifier. Then, you start with making a spline that will form the shape that the track will be moving
on. Model one piece of the track and put the axis at the rotation center. Finish it off with an Xform, just to be sure.
After, run the Trainmaker script and from that point on, it could be that you have to tweak some values. Its a very
clear script to use, so enjoy it.
No Blockouts:
I am to lazy to make blockouts for professional and for my freetime projects. Is this a bad thing? Yes, but it just doesnt
work for me to block my meshes out. I see concept art as a sort of blockout, you have to make that design better. To
comfort myself, I always start working on a really interesting area of a vehicle/detailed part. That way youre pumped
to keep working on it and you can figure out the style youre going for. So, I start on one speficic area of a vehicle and
make that one as Alpha as possible. I can bring over my design to the team and show them the vision of the vehicle,
instead of having to say, This is just a blockout. Imagine details being in there. Instead of wastingmy time for this,
I put it in, getting the correct shape.
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StarterTip:
If you want to start getting into vehicles, dont rush. Start with understanding flow and elegancy. You dont even have
to start with SUBD models. Not at all. Just make some fast studies everyday of just car bodies. Aim for 2500 triangles
and try to catch the characteristics from that vehicle because thats something a lot of people miss. Start with this and
this will get you further than working on a highpoly car for more than four months. Heres an example of some of my
old studies from 3 years ago.
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Pro optimizer:
Sometimes you spend a lot of time in sculpting something really detailed and you would like to keep this for presenting your SubD model to the industry. But, working with a non-decimated sculpt is not always possible. This is what I
do to fix this: I export my sculpt to a detailed version. Import it into Max and the first second its in there, I apply a pro
optimizer modifier and put it on 10%. That way, I can run my model in a smooth way. At the end, I am able to turn the
modifier off and render my presentation shot in full glory.
Patterns:
If you dont want to waste too much time on patterns, you can always rely on Photoshop and Zbrush. You just search
for a non-perspective texture , convert it to a bump texture, and use it as an alpha mask in Zbrush. Now, apply that
texture as an alpha with a drag rect brush in Zbrush. Some quick examples you can use this for are: tire tracks, cracked
glass, etc.
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Conclusion
Hopefully now, you have a slightly different vision about vehicles. They can be equally interesting as characters or environments. Its really easy to make a vehicle, render it and
put it on your portfolio, but most people will go: oooh another vehicle. You dont want that - especially for a specific
job naming as this. Its all about the level of personality you
give them. Every vehicle I made is like a child to me. I try
to give it personality, a face, so people see it as something
more than an empty chassis with wheels. In the next shot,
you even see a funny example of this. I just combined two
old vehicles and got a new one.
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About Me
Matthias Develtere
w w w. d e v e l t e r e m a t t h i a s .w o r d p r e s s . c o m
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David Lojaya
www.artstation.com/artist/david_lojaya
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Christine Gourvest
www.artstation.com/artist/christinegourvest
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Challenge
Introduction
Games, amongst other things, are incredible teachers. When making a game, we are inherently asking the player to
step into an alternate universe, learn its rules, practice conquering challenges, and master the challenges presented.
This process, even if completely isolated from any other extraneous rewards systems, can be an extremely rewarding
experience for the player. Almost any design accomplishes exactly this to some extent without much effort; however,
the best designs are able to continually introduce new and sometimes more complex challenges to the player without
adding too much frustration to the players experience.
Complexity can play a major role in
determining the duration between
the introduction of a new mechanic or challenge and the mastery
of it. This generally comes at the
expense of accessibility, so most
game designers decide to separate
and slow the introduction of new
challenges to the player until they
believe they have been given adequate time to practice and even
master them.
Introducing a new mechanic too
soon may lead to frustration as
many games tend to build challenges based upon the past experiences of the player.
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Its important to understand the difference between something that is challenging and something that is punishing.
Generally speaking, a punishing game is not very fun and frustrating whereas a challenging game can be a lot of fun;
punishment feels unfair while challenges are almost always fair. In punishing games, the player is often left with the
feeling that they are unequipped with the knowledge of how to deal with the situations the game offers. On the other
hand, challenging gameplay can test either or both the mental and physical response of the player, but is fair and obvious regarding its expectations of the player.
Most importantly, the line between a challenging experience and a punishing experience is often drawn at whether
the player was provided with enough information in order to act appropriately in response. This highlights the importance of clearly showing, or signaling, to the player of the challenge that awaits them. For example, if a very visually
heavily armored enemy approaches to the player, the player can expect that the enemy will take a much greater beating than his previous foes.
Note that its very important that any signals provided to the player be as unambiguous as possible, so the player
can easily predict a cause and effect relationship between their actions and the response of the challenge. Following
unambiguous signaling, the player requires clear feedback when they have attempted to interact with a challenge
success or failure. With clear feedback, the player can understand whether they should continue with their course of
action (which they performed based off the signaling presented to them) or attempt to change their methods in order
to succeed.
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Toolbox
Unambiguous signaling and clear feedback are always incredibly important, but their importance becomes even greater when introducing a new challenge to the player since they will not have prior experience with the exact challenge
being presented. The good news is that the toolbox for signaling and feedback is vast with nearly limitless options. In
the limited examples below, Ill focus on enemy AI in a first-person shooter, though this can be applied to any challenge.
In the first example for signaling, assume the intention is to introduce a new enemy AI to the player:
Signaling Example
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Feedback Example
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Building an Example
Now that weve covered the multitude of ways to provide signaling and feedback to the player, lets take a pretty basic
enemy seen in a lot of first-person shooters, and demonstrate the ways in which we can introduce new challenges to
the player. In this example, our enemy mainly fights from cover, occasionally popping out to shoot at the player with
a mid-range weapon. The base challenge were asking the player to master is both of dexterity and intellect: shoot the
enemy as he is emerging from cover and avoid getting hit once he starts firing. It is this base challenge that will remain
and act as the foundation for which all other new challenges will be added.
This base challenge should keep the player occupied and happy for a short while, but soon the player will get close to
mastering that challenge after a few iterations of practice. Now that the player is primed and waiting for something
new, we can introduce something new: the enemy will now start throwing grenades at the player in an effort to flush
them out from their cover. This new challenge adds on to the basic cover shooting challenge and requires the player
to practice their mobility and combat positioning tactics. After the player has had a chance to practice against this
upgraded enemy, we can slowly add additional elements to increase the challenge, such as quicker reactions to the
players actions, the ability to throw back player grenades, and the ability to flank the player.
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With all of these new elements added to the fight, we can ensure that the player will be constantly learning and being challenged, which will undoubtedly lead to the player having fun! It is incredibly important to note, however, that
unambiguous signaling and clear feedback must be utilized for each new layer that is added to avoid frustration.
Importance of Rewards
It would be irresponsible to not at least briefly mention the importance of adequately rewarding the player for overcoming each new challenge. While conquering challenges can be an incredibly rewarding experience on its own, it
should not be left in isolation under most circumstances. Coupling the successful completion of an encounter with an
adequate reward reinforces the concept of the player succeeding. Ideally, rewards can scale with the players performance and challenge level, though this may not always be possible.
Conclusion
Games need to continually challenge the player in new ways to hold their interest for long; however, its important to
identify a good pace of introduction, unambiguous signals, and clear feedback when presenting new challenges to the
player to avoid the slippery slope leading to a frustrating experience. While the process of creating and tuning these
elements can be difficult and time-consuming, its almost certainly worth the effort.
About Me
My name is Drew Rechner and Im in Game Design currently working at Ubisoft Massive. Previously, I worked on Section 8, Section 8:
Prejudice, and Aliens: Colonial Marines while at TimeGate Studios. I
have a strong passion for designing and implementing combat and AI
systems for games. In addition to my professional career, I remade Baldurs Gate as a mod for Neverwinter Nights 2 and am currently in the
process of remaking Baldurs Gate II: Shadows of Amn for Neverwinter Nights 2. Outside of games, I love playing football (soccer), lifting
weights, traveling, hiking, cooking, eating new and interesting food,
drinking good beers, making cocktails, and generally spending time
with my amazing wife.
Drew Rechner
w w w. l i n ke d i n . c o m / i n / d r e w r e c h n e r
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Nestor Carpintero
www.artstation.com/artist/nestorcarpintero
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www.karakter.de
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Set Dressing
Introduction
(fig.01)
Successful set dressing an environment should be more than just filling a room with great looking props. When you
set dress, your props should be used to emphasize the story of your environment. When done well, these stories will
help sell your scene and add to its realism and believability. There are many considerations to be taken while trying to
sell believable environments. Thought, preparation, planning, and constant adjustment will all have to be used. In this
article, we will take a top down look at the steps I take when approaching the task of set dressing an environment. I will
use the above image (fig.01) as an example for many of the sections, but these steps and thought processes are used
when I approach any new environment.
Prop Creation
Once your environment is decided on and blocked out, its ready for set dressing. The next step is creating the props
that will be used. Its hard to place props and complete a scene if you dont have anything to place! For me, starting
with an initial asset list to help decide what needs to be made is a good first step. I tend to use lots of photography,
movie, TV, and other media reference to help inform the asset list, keeping in mind my initial concept and theming. Set
dressing works smoother when I can add more than one prop in the scene at a time. Spending time to create multiple
props before placing them will lead to a clear idea of where things should go and should lead to less wasted time adjusting large amounts of props in the later stages of set dressing. For our example (fig. 01), I used movies, such as Alien,
2001, and other classic scifi movies, as well as reference and inspiration, for building out my asset list.
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(fig .02)
When actually creating a prop, its important to understand where and how itll be used. Things like, how much detail
it will need, how much time you should spend on it, and roughly its distance from the character/camera and the angle
it is seen should be noted. Once you have this information, you can make a better decision on how to approach its
creation. Its common to find yourself overengineering a prop, whether it be for a game, a movie, or a personal piece.
(fig. 03)
Doing this not only adds up to wasted time during the creation process, but can very well lead to
massive amounts of wasted time during rendering (for prerendered environments) or optimization (for game environments).
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In my example scene (fig. 01), and seen closer above (fig .03), you can see that most of these props wouldnt stand up
under close scrutiny and could not be used as hero props. Most have dirty geo, stretched, missing, or repeating
textures, and even floater textures for logos and details. However, I knew how they would be used in the scene, so
I was able to model them quickly and efficiently. To clarify, Im not saying to make bad looking props. Im saying you
should know how they will be used and seen, and to then use your best judgment to efficiently make them look great.
Understanding the distinction of when something is good enough comes with experience, planning, and practice. This
concept is a great way to speed up your professional and personal workflows.
Now that we have some of our props created, its time to decide where and how to place them. This tends to be one
of the most time consuming processes when creating an environment, but its also one of the most important steps.
Once again, reference from everyday life, movies, and photography is useful when deciding where to place your objects. Observing how clutter naturally tends to build in offices, living rooms, or restaurants is helpful for deciding how
to dress your scene. You should avoid too much randomness and repetition. Instead, focus on placing props where
they naturally would end up. Papers, notes, and books on and around desks. Cups, plates, and trash near eating areas.
Keeping a real world logic to the placement of props will help keep the viewer invested in your environment. We dont
want to just naturally dress our scene, however. We want to try to dress it in an ideal way.
What that means is, we want it to be as interesting and pleasing to view as possible. When done well, we can use this
step to really help sell the realism and interest of our environments. Using well made photography and movie reference can be a great way to get a sense to how this can be done right. Remember, we have spent a lot of effort to compose our shot, using the ideal lighting, camera angle, and setting to create a compelling image. Using that same effort,
while placing our props, can be just as important. Tell a story with your props. Avoid just haphazardly slapping props
all over your environment. Take some time to think about why this prop would be in that area. How did it get there?
Who left it there? Is it out of place or is it put where it should be? Thinking about these things will lead to more natural
feeling to your scene but also add that subtle feeling of realism. If done well, it will help the viewer accept that space
as believable because on some level they will understand how the space was being used.
(fig. 04)
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(fig. 05)
This example shows how duplicating a lot of the same props can cause issues in your scene. In this case: it was easy to
duplicate the beer cans around to fill the scene. The side-effect is that now it looks like a slobbish alcoholic lives here,
which is not the intent of the image. Remember, your props tell a story.
Overall Composition
Lets recap: we have the general theme of our area, weve spent some time researching props and filling out a bit of
a prop library to start using, and weve started to place them throughout the scene, keeping in mind the most natural
and interesting places for them to be. What now? Never forget the importance of our overall scene composition. The
overall scene composition should always be a high consideration when building, lighting, and set dressing your scene.
Every placement decision should be a little piece working towards that end. Its fairly easy to start filling up every
surface with props and detail, but this can quickly get out of control. Even if the structure (the walls, windows, doors,
and other initial layout) of the scene is planned and laid out well, overclutter can easily lead to a flatter looking image
or a confusing composition. Its important to have unused areas and areas for the viewers eye to rest. This means
having some surfaces with less or no props on them at all or some areas with props with less visual weight to them.
Visual Weight
(fig. 06)
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(Compare our can to the interesting shapes and color contrasts to common beer cans today)
(fig. 07)
Basically, this prop demands attention. Because it demands attention, we need to be careful where we place it, and be
sure that its working towards our overall compositional goal. Lets compare that to a prop with less visual weight: the
cans of beer. The shape is just a cylinder it has very little complexity to it. The colors are very similar to many already
used in the rest of the scene: light shades of grey and tan. Even the texture is fairly low contrast overall. WIth these
cans, I can group many of them and they still dont have the visual weight that the single bonsai has. I wanted them
to be less interesting because I knew I would be using many of them throughout the scene. If I wanted the cans to have
more of a visual weight and impact, I could have chosen something more interesting, like some beer cans found today.
(fig. 07) Training your eye to see and use the discrepancy in prop weight will become invaluable when you start making
your decisions on your overall composition.
The last thing I want to talk about is a more subtle thing to consider while selling believability and storytelling with your
props. I call these the tertiary world building details, mostly because I dont know what else to call it. These dont normally add to the overall read of your environment or even help with the composition. These are much more of a polish step and are best used once youve already put in the effort to nailing the other aspects of creating a scene. Some
examples of these: Have period/genre relevant book titles in the shelves. Have a chess board or other kind of game?
Look at famous games played and recreate an actual turn opposed to randomly placing pieces. Use labels and business
titles that people recognize or that give a nod to the overall story you are telling. Have paperwork, receipts, computer
screens, etc, all be related and connected. Many small details like this were used to an extreme, in the example image
(fig 01), partly because it was an homage to classic scifi, but also because these small details add a recognition and
believability to the overall feeling of the scene.
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Conclusion
(fig. 08)
As with any guideline, trying to be put on art or creativity, these will not always be correct. There are always exceptions to the rule. It is, however, still very important to take time to stop and analyze these options. You want to be sure
that you are making the best possible choices for whatever the goal of your environment is and avoid falling into easy
mistakes. So, before you place that next beer can prop, be sure to ask yourself: Who left this here?
About Me
Devon Fay
w w w. a r t s t a t i o n . c o m / a r t i s t / m a l i b u b o b
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Mohammed Mukhtar
www.artstation.com/artist/mohzart
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Stephen Todd
www.artstation.com/artist/stephentodd
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Introduction
Technical Animations goal is to advance animation, animation systems, and animation pipelines. We are also tasked
with making animators work shine through our own knowledge and expertise of development practices, systems and
software. Inspired by Ali Mayyasis great article back in issue 1 of Vertex (The Glue, Life as a Technical Artist), I will layout in a similar fashion the day to day of Technical Animation within the Games Industry.
Character Pipeline
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Tools
Most animators want to focus entirely on their craft, rather than become involved in the technical side of game development. This is important to bear in mind when developing any type of tool or pipeline that an animator will use
frequently - the technical knowledge of the end user cannot be assumed. Its also important that our tools and code
are understandable to any other user that may want to extend, modify, or reuse parts of them. Think Intuitive and
Robust when designing any tool and you cant go far wrong.
Animation Tools: While most DCCs contain a fair amount of animation tools, it is essential to
be able to offer animators bespoke tools to help with their workflow or pipeline needs. This
can range from animation exporters, character loaders, asset browsers, to anything that can
improve the animators workflow. While the tools may vary in scope and use, it is important to
keep an unified look between tools for both readability and ease of use. It is also a good practice
to put all reusable code into libraries, meaning that other Technical Animators/Artists can easily
write new tools without having to rewrite code. Python packages are perfect for this. Recommended reading : Mark Lutzs : Learning Python
Deformers: As mentioned previously, deformers can be great way of achieving deformation not possible with only
joints and skinning. If a deformer does not exist in a DCC, we can usually write one as a plugin. Advances are currently
underway regarding DCC specific deformers. Fabric Engine is a standalone development framework that allows Tech
Animators/Artists to develop cross DCC solutions using their Splice API - this includes deformers. A combination of this
and the previously mentioned point cache practices will significantly increase the quality of deformations and simulations we can achieve within a game engine.
Conclusion
While this article in no way covers everything that comes our way, I feel
that anyone interested in getting into Technical Animation can use this
article as an insight as to what we do. Some people specialize completely
in one of these areas while others choose to be more generalized. I hope
that my article complements Ali Mayyasis in Vertex 1, and also highlights
the differences between Technical Animation and Technical Art.
About Me
Matthew Lee
w w w. m a t t h e w l e e a n i m a t o r. b l o g s p o t . c o m
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www.artstation.com/artist/mvhaitsma
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Simon Barle
www.artstation.com/artist/simonbarle
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Iron Bull
Introduction
Here, I will be going through some of my methods and techniques tackling a highly customizable character while being
on tight time-frame. I wrote this with the intermediate artist in mind, so basically having some knowledge of modeling,
texturing, and general art terminology is highly recommended. I will be taking you through my process of work in
Maya, Zbrush, Photoshop etc., but you can certainly tailor it towards whichever software you prefer. When working in
the gaming industry, the process of workflow changes a lot depending on the project, team structure, the limitations
of technology, the time-frame, and a whole array of other things. The way to be successful is trying to learn and adapt
to your environment, while maintaining focus on your final objective.
Set Up
For this particular character, I worked very closely with the concept artist and it was extremely rewarding. The general
idea was to make a heavier armor set. As this was another outfit of an already established character, it made things
easier. Designing a character while building it at same time however, made it a bit trickier.
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After getting a few rough concepts, I started getting the bigger shapes done in Maya. I was very curious about what
kind of functionality it would be possible to get out of it. Making armor work on a proper human is one thing, but having the limitations of the joints/rig/animation for in-game use is entirely different matter, especially if there is a lot of
armor that needs to go on there. With that in mind, the character needed to have a lot of geometry added for each
progression to give the player that big payoff.
As you can see on here - the leg armor plates look great on concept, but when implemented onto game mesh they do
break quite a bit. This is with having plates both stacking on top of each other and behind each other. As there was
no possibility to add extra joints there, we had to come up with a solution/design that would work better. So what we
decided to do instead was to have the top part being all leather with a smaller metal plate and a larger metal part on
the low end where there wouldnt be much deformation, as it would be skinned to the femur bone/ thigh. Also, just
moving it slightly lower helped a lot. These changes ended up working extremely well without the need of adding any
extra joints or animations, yet maintaining the original idea. I come from an animation/skinning background and that
is extremely helpful. But even with that in mind, it could be quite tricky to predict how some of the shapes will behave
in certain poses/animations. Making sure the functionality of the armor and its progressions work at an early stage is
extremely important because changes at a later stage will mostly likely be very costly, both in design and time. Make
sure to have a nice Tech Artist handy for those early quick tests!
Modeling Process
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When doing this piece, to minimize downtime, it was important to separate workload into parts. I would rough in, for
instance, legs and check with TA that it was working then pass it off to a concept artist for detail work and tweaks, while
I work on torso and shoulders. Once that part was done I would get back to it and pass off another one. Its a bit of
juggling work, but keeps everyone in the loop and does ensure a consistent result. Plus, its a lot of fun and makes you
feel like you truly working in a team environment with good ideas flowing.
Whenever I rough things in, I often do it in Maya first (depending on the character). On this character, a lot of the armor
is mirrored to save texture space. The parts that are mirrored, I did in exploded state, with groups that were instanced
(a good tip here is to keep it always at full values if possible). So for keyframe0, it was in exploded state and then at
keyframe1, brought everything back into proper position. That way I can, with minimum effort, keep up the modifications on one part carrying over to the other side. Plus, when making high fidelity detail later on, I could make sure
that some of the scratches and bumps were not too obviously mirrored. By doing this, I could always have it perfectly
centered, as the group original position would be dead on center in both scale and rotation. This is something I came
up with, on the fly, while making this specific character. I quickly realized later on, when making low res, that this would
be extremely useful.
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As I am actually key-framing groups and not the geometry itself, I can build my lowpoly in the center/mirrored. Then
once its done, I would move it over to the keyed group for that part and go to keyframe1 and will have it positioned
in correct place. This made my in-game mesh building process extremely fast and precise. I always recommend having your layers nice and neat to keep track of all this. In this case, I had a layer for each progression and named them
accordingly.
Having everything visible is good for seeing how things work in relation to each other, but could make you miss some
detail behind or underneath. Hiding parts manually each time is too time consuming and definitely has a higher
chance of error attached to it, rather than just switching a layer on/off.
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This is how the model looked right after I imported all the subtools into Zbrush. As you can see, it has a lot of detail
already. All the pieces are there and now I just have to tessellate things up and make them feel representative of
whatever material and level of wear that is required. I do assign various shaders to different parts so I can get a sense
of material better. The more accurate representation you can get, the better it is for your final product. When it comes
to metal parts, I wanted the metal feel like it has been hammered to give it its shape/wear. This aspect I actually did
exaggerate somewhat for a fine armor like this one just from knowing that quite a bit of detail work like this gets lost
after making it into game. On top of this, I added scratches and tear on edges. This is a fairly new armor you craft, so
I did keep it fairly clean.
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Once the high res is done, its time to move on to in game model. Here, I will go somewhat more into detail about the
process, as there seems to be quite a few people out there who make high res stuff in Zbrush, but find it hard to know
what to do next, in order to get that mesh into an in game environment. In order to build my low poly mesh, I will
require getting those zbrush subtools into maya as reference. For that, I usually dont decimate my meshes, but rather
go down to appropriate subdivision level and export it out. This depends a bit on how your original mesh is made. If
you capture the shapes you need, with a low amount of geometry, yet keep the polygon sizes somewhat consistent,
then that should be no problem. Another tip here is to hide parts you dont need and export only visible areas for
that subtool (if say an object is mirrored). Avoiding pre calculation and then decimation for a complex character (all
those subtools) is not a huge timesaver, but a timesaver never the less. Still, if you are fairly new to this process, then
decimation master is there to help you out. Once you have all your reference subtools imported into maya, you could
ether start your lowpoly from scratch or your base subdivision level from zbrush. I usually make three folders when
exporting things out from Zbrush. One for high res trace, one for reference - that is usually the subdivision level 3-4,
and the other for base meshes (because they can change quite a bit from the original you imported into Zbrush). First
off, you need to make your ref object Live.
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Using your base subdivision level as a start for low poly model has various advantages, keeping UVs if you have already
done those in advance for say polypaint purpose and easy bake over. You also can already see how the geometry follows the ref shape. For some, that makes things easier. So it becomes not so much creating as correcting. I would recommend using tweak mode for some of this process.
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If you are creating your lowpoly from scratch, then Quad Draw Tool is your friend.
Its fun, easy, and a fast way to build your geometry around your reference. At times, I do assign different shaders to
reference object vs lowpoly to get better visualization or I have 2 view-ports active, one being the just the lowpoly I
am creating and the other with them both in the view. It usually does take quite a bit of time to make a good low res
that follows high res well and keeps good edge flow. Keep in mind that this will become your final model from this
point on. So, take your time and make sure you get those shapes in. This process doesnt have a whole lot of shortcuts.
You just have to power through it all and the more you build the more you learn about how to make things more efficient and clean. Hopefully, this is where you notice that minor things, like two belts being closer together or an armor
piece attached a bit differently, would have saved you a lot of extra work. Those things make practically no difference
for the final model, but make quite a bit of difference budget/time wise. Its still important to make those choices of
asymmetry and randomness, but its good to know what kind of cost is attached to it and where you would benefit
most in having it. Once you have all of your high res geometry covered with low res to support shape and functionality, its time to do uv.s.
Its a good thing to start off with getting everything UV mapped at the same ratio. However, after completion, I often
go through the model and check where I might need to have extra detail and upscale that UV part somewhat. Then I
reduce other parts in less need of UV space. The scale changes I do are still fairly minor because you still want things
to feel like they belong, but it does help. I, then, scale everything to roughly the area of where my UVs would go. After
that, I move all the large parts in first, followed by the medium, and lastly small UV islands. Tracing could be quite a
tricky process. We usually use Xnormal for most of this, but on occasion I did use maya. Almost no tracing is perfect
right away. You might need to play with how deep the tracing values are, flip normals or alter your low res mesh to
produce a better result. When it came to the texture process, we found ourselves sort of midway into PBR on this
project. It being released on both current and last gen. This made us do some compromising. Moving on to full PBR,
things will become a lot more straight forward for a lot of studios. I am not going to go over this too much, as in this
case textures were made quite specific for our shaders and the frostbite. I did, however, want to point out that a lot of
textures were made for each character and quite a few of them had various masks for specific materials (metal/cloth/
leather), tintable areas etc. Those were later pushed into the RGBA layers of the tgas and eventually picked out by
shaders in engine. This was mainly done to cut the costs. Also, having very heavy customization even on the texture
side, we had to have a lot of areas gray in the diffuse to achive the maximum tinting options. This went hand in hand
with some of those masks I mentioned earlier.
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As always, I did find the use of quixels dDo (http://quixel.se) to be very helpful in my texture process. Lets get back to
this model and some numbers. The most basic base for this model was around 10.5k tris and that combined together
with all the progressions minus the back-faces was around 26.4k consisting of three parts (body, arms, legs). Textures
used were 4096x4096 for base and another 4096x4096 for bitpack, that got compressed later on for in-game use. UVs
are stacked neatly to make the most of it. These are some of the textures and various masks just for the bitpack.
Then, there is the second bitpack, both bases and nude textures along with texture for the helm and misc items. Here
is a shot with a couple of examples. Once all of that is done, its time to start a new character!
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Conclusion
I hope that this tutorial had some useful points for anyone who is interested in character art creation. I started it with
the idea of keeping it small and just to give some pointers, but ended up touching on quite a broad array of things. My
main advice is, however, to always be aware of how you can improve your work-flow. Ask yourself if there is something you could have done better/faster and try to do it on your next asset. I feel like there is still tons more to cover,
but it will have to do for now. I must also mention that it was a blast making this asset and contributing to the Dragon
Age universe as a whole. I did manage to refine a lot of my own processes in art creation, as well as having privilege
of learning a bunch of new things in a variety of fields. The whole team did an awesome job and I am super thankful
for sharing that experience.
About Me
Im currently a Senior Character Artist at BioWare. I have been working here for roughly three years now, most of which was on Dragon Age
Inquisition. Now, I am working on another exiting IP here. I have always
had a great passion for movies and games. I never actually thought I
would end up working in this field. I was shooting for some sort of safe
and technical job, but things worked out quite differently.
From a very young age, Ive been into all sorts of art drawing, sculpting,
woodwork, etc. But after I found 3D, I was totally hooked and have been
doing that nonstop pretty much from that point on. I love both modeling
and animation. I started out as animator in the industry, but later on, my
career path changed over to modeling. I have been in the game industry
for about 13 years now and Im still loving it. I hope you guys found this
an interesting read.
Patrik Karlsson
www.patrikmadkarlsson.com
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Joshua Lynch
www.artstation.com/artist/joshlynch
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www.artstation.com/artist/c780162
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Concept Illustration
Benjamin Last
Introduction to a Concept Illustration Workflow :
Introduction
This following workflow will highlight, albeit briefly, my design process when creating realistic hero images for spacecraft concepts created by me at Karakter Design Studio for Edge Case Games Fractured Space using both Adobe Photoshop and Modo. This workflow is essentially the same workflow I use everyday, altered to the days working requirements, whether its for designing vehicles, environments, characters, or props. This walk through will detail the latter
stages of my typical workflow, usually starting with reference gathering and thumbnail sketching and gradually working
my way through to the final hero image.
Before I get into the sketching phase, I need to understand and immerse myself in the brief. Whether I have set it for
a personal project or if a client has given me a proposal, script, or gameplay idea, my first point of call is to familiarize
myself with the related material, delve into the depths and surround myself with reference. Collecting images online
along with field trips to photograph relevant subject matter goes a long way in helping familiarize myself with the subject matter and, therefore, generating more believable designs. It also provides much needed images that I later use as
textures in Photoshop to provide a realistic touch and save time.
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Every time I approach a brief to design something be it vehicles, environments, characters, or props; I always begin
with a sketch. Whether its in a sketchbook, on loose paper, on the back of a napkin, or digitally; I always like to quickly
translate my thoughts into images. These initial sketches are here to establish a variety of forms, silhouettes and design themes. I was looking for a strong contrast between positive and negative forms, wanting to subset details into
the negative spaces between large panels to establish a sense of scale for this larger ship. For this design, I moved
quickly (due to project time constraints) into 3D after establishing a unique silhouette in the sketching phase.
I begin building a block-out in Modo, roughly establishing design dimensions and any other criteria that have been
communicated through the brief for this particular ship. This provides a rough structure to either start painting or to
continue modeling. In this case, the project dictated a more refined 3D model, so I worked the model (along with Mike
Hill) into a more finished design. Establishing a harmony between the positive and negative shapes was important, allowing for details to be subset behind the larger exterior bodies. Utilizing Modos Instance generators, large amounts
of detail can be generated relatively quickly, giving a sense of scale to an object almost a kilometer in length. Once
the design is realised, I render it out with a simple grey shader, along with a simple lighting setup. This provides me
with a clean base which I can paint and manipulate in Photoshop without having to strictly adhere to a fully polished
3D render.
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I return to Modo briefly before continuing in Photoshop. Having saved off my render camera, I decided to do a basic
color breakup and re-render another pass with a stronger spotlight to emphasize the front of the spacecraft. This could
be done in Photoshop, but with a larger rendering, I decided to complete this step in Modo to save time. An Alpha pass
was also created to allow easy removal of the spacecraft from the background. Once again, this can be done with a
selection tool in Photoshop. With this layered in Photoshop, I continue to use the path tool to create detailed selections
with a mixture of the overlay and multiply layers to paint further material breakups.
I continue to manipulate the current layers through level adjustments, brightness, and contrast as well as painting in
shadows and shadow cores to establish a stronger lighting setup. These changes are performed on another set of adjustment layers so that I can alter the transparency to varying lighting effects at a later stage. I wanted the eye to be
drawn to the lower front of the ship, gradually working its way towards the back of the ship to the darkened-off areas. I
place a theoretical bounce light in the bottom left of the image, possibly suggesting reflected light from a nearby moon.
The rim light on the rear of the craft helps to push the silhouette from the background.
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I continue in this image to paint a rim light in areas to pop the silhouette further from the background. I paint a simple
gradient, which I will later fill with star field. I want this image to have a lot of contrast and feel cinematic rather than
a design rendering, making all features highly visible. I start using reference images of oil rigs at night and overlaying
these over the inner parts of the ship to suggest internal lighting. With the ships large drivers at the front being a
unique design element, I want to put a sense of emphasis on this to develop a visual hierarchy within the image. I also
paint in smaller locator lights in red to not only further emphasize a sense of scale but also to provide more subtle
information on the shapes that are in darkness.
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I continue working slowly across the image, placing various photo textures to give quick details to the image. As there is
a sufficient amount of detail in the subset areas of the model, I can focus placing and painting details in the foreground.
Simple photographs of crates and industrial wall fittings work well to provide the look of large panels and surface
details. Going back and looking into my reference of aircraft and container ships, I try best to match similar means of
construction before switching between overlay and darken modes to see which gives me the best results, and finally
painting in any remaining details on top of the photo-texture. Using the median adjustment helps to remove some
of the jpeg artifacts and pixelation that can occur when using photographs for textures, helping to preserve a more
painterly effect. For a ship this large, using repeated elements helps to maintain its sense of scale.
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Finishing Touches
I found the need to add smaller spacecraft to the image to break up the stillness of a single ship in frame. These ships
once again assist in further cementing the scale of the larger spacecraft. Smaller engine flares are placed to add a
sense of direction to the smaller ships, as if they were a fighter escort for this larger lumbering vessel. I find these
elements necessary to add an underlying sense of story to an image. Finally, with almost any finished image, I add a
final adjustment layer to harmonize the colors in the image. I apply the unsharp filter to regain some harder edges
lost in the painting. I find the filter adds a nice grain to the image, although I recommend using it sparingly. The final
step involves adding some chromatic aberration to give the image a film quality, some minor tweaks with the levels
and voila!
Conclusion
The methods shown here can be adapted to your own personal workflow. Whether you are working from an extremely detailed 3D model
or a simple block out, the layers of overpaint and the use of photo textures will help you achieve a realistic hero image to place your design in
the world it inhabits.
About Me
Benjamin Last
w w w . b e n j a m i n l a s t . c o m
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Sung Choi
www.artstation.com/artist/sungchoi
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Dorje Bellbrook
www.artstation.com/artist/dorje
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Content is King
Blizzard has been trying to generate enough content to keep their huge player base busy for over ten years - some
argue the strain is showing.
Introduction
Nothing beats content, right? You can have clumsy controls, muddled menus, a nonsensical narrative; but as long as
the content is amazing players can forgive almost anything. We are fast approaching the twentieth anniversary of
Bill Gates article Content is King. It proved seminal and contentious (if not a wholly original sentiment, as Sumner
Redstone fans might haughtily point out). It has been bunked, debunked, and rebunked.
Gates focus was not primarily on gaming or virtual worlds, but the principle translates extremely well. Once your
worlds infrastructure is in place, you need content. Lots of content. No, even more content than that. Lots more. I
know you just patched it in, but your loudest players just finished it and consider it terribly passe.
It can take weeks to create something that takes minutes to complete. This awkward, inescapably lopsided equation
is undoubtedly one of the reasons that there has been so much recent focus on replayable content and player generated content/experiences in sandbox worlds. Its a familiar challenge, but I wanted to talk about content from a slightly
different angle.
Minecraft is an Anecdote Generation Engine par excellence - players create their own experiences and content
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I have a modest three years of design experience in the MMO space. Very early on, I encountered something odd. I
started forgetting what it was like to be a player. Like all too many things in life, this was entirely unthinkable right up
until the moment it happened. After more than ten years of exploring virtual worlds, with an almost unseemly fervor,
I was so confident that I appreciated the nuances of player psychology that I didnt even bother to codify them for the
sake of professional reference.
With my designer hat on, giving the players choice felt important, if not obligatory. There are so many ways in which
you can slice an audience by age, play style, region, favorite faction, class, Taylor Swift song, whatever. Serious efforts
are made to ensure that as many slices as possible found each piece of new content interesting and valuable.
Heres a deadly sentence. I heard it uttered, and uttered it myself. Well, its optional. They dont HAVE to do it. This
is disingenuous at best. As designers, we are careful to assign various values to content, along various axes. This gem
drops 4% of the time. This sword costs a hundred tokens. This buff lasts for thirty seconds.
Bungie painstakingly handcrafted a ton of content, then cleverly asked players to visit and revisit it over and over, in
slightly different ways.
Optional is in the eye of the beholder. Tons of options feel great as a designer, but sometimes overwhelming as a
player. Pick one of these three paths? Okay. If I do one, are the others locked out? No? Then Im absolutely going to do
all three. Not because I want to. Not because its fun, per se. Because it is rewarded in some way and I like to feel as
though I have wrung every last gold piece (or whatever) from this shiny new content. Lets not even get started on alts.
Content has considerable and easily underestimated value just by existing. A lot of the time the players experiencing
it are not just invested, they are inhabitants. They greatly value the status they have gained within this world. A chunk
of this status depends upon consuming as much content as possible and falling behind the curve can have hugely
detrimental effect on efficency.
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Terraria can add tons of content without incurring huge production costs.
New content particularly anything that requires multiple people is white hot at launch, but cools very rapidly.
Theres a very human desire to be part of the conversation, be an early adopter. Were all phenomenally good at normalizing new information and experiences. As I mentioned earlier, its unthinkable until its not.
Its another way in which the traditional subscription MMO model (and, yes, this basically means World of Warcraft)
feels like its breaking all the rules. Handmade content is unsustainable. Its like planning an elaborate feast for months
and months, sourcing mouthwatering ingredients from all over the world, sweating over each dish, throwing out
anything that isnt perfect, and serving it up only to have the diners picking their teeth and asking whats for pudding
before youve made it back to the kitchen.
Its a puzzle without a neat solution so far. World of Warcraft has momentum and tremendous resources to play with,
but leaves players twiddling their thumbs for months at a time. Destiny asks players to experience and re-experience
the same static, handmade world over and over in slightly different ways. Indie titles like Terraria can churn out a phenomenal amount of new content, partly because their (beautiful) game is 2D and relatively lo-fi. The dream of UGC
(user-generated content) draws nearer and nearer, with Minecraft mods a notable success in that area, but remains
elusive for most games.
Conclusion
Content is king. Optional content isnt. I love MMOs dearly - they are
absolutely the most satisfying genre I have ever experienced - but I dont
think they have reached a thousandth of their potential yet. I dont know
what the future holds, whether well ever be able to get players involved
in content creation in a genuine, meaningful, and lasting way, but Im
excited to find out.
About Me
Tom Mayo worked as a magazine journalist for six years, then went on to
serve at the SyFy Channel, EA, Realtime Worlds, Jagex, Activision, then
Jagex again. He has a dead mans eye, fought Buffys stunt double, and
once tried to make Sigourney Weaver laugh. It didnt work.
Tom Mayo
w w w. d ra ke l a za r u s .w o rd p r e s s . c o m
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Leonid Kolyagin
www.artstation.com/artist/leonidkolyagin
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Darek Zabrocki
www.artstation.com/artist/zabrocki
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Photogrammetry
Introduction
Photogrammetry is a simple concept that uses photography to auto-generate 3D Geometry and a base texture map
to create PBR Materials for either real-time or 3D engines such as Vray, etc. Im happy to share some of my experiences with photogrammetry, and hopefully to help people get started with that and help enlarge this community and
improve the existent workflows using these techniques. Time has always been a valuable resource in any production.
Photogrammetry can help you speed up your workflow and maintain the good quality of your assets. Individual mid
sized assets takes an average of 4 hours of work, and another 3 to 4 hours of computer processing. In this breakdown,
we will go over the process of how to photoscan a section of an exterior environment naturally lit, and how to isolate
and process an individual asset using Agisoft, Maya, Zbrush, and Photoshop.
The Process
The first step of the process is to go out and properly take pictures, the basic concept behind having a good photoscan
asset is to understand that Agisoft Photoscan will generate a 3D Geometry based on the angles that you have taken
your pictures, so the Capture process is extremely important, and maybe the most important step of all.
Try to shoot with overcast lighting when outdoors, or diffused lighting indoors/in a studio, to avoid directional lighting.
Using a DSLR or Mirrorless Camera + 50mm Lens to take pictures and manually make sure to acquire as much data as
possible - trying to not under or over expose any of the pictures using a 32bit file format so we can tweak it later and
recover some of the data obtained.
Use a polarizing filter to reduce reflections from glossy/reflective surfaces
Try to keep your ISO as low as possible to avoid noise
Use small aperture/ High F-Number
Use slow shutter speeds to balance the aperture and make sure the picture is not over or under exposed/ for shutter
speeds slower than 1/40 the use of tripod is recommended so the photos doesnt get blurred
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Lock exposure by shooting in manual mode or by using AEL (auto exposure lock) on camera.
If shooting in JPEG, make sure white balance is locked in as well, otherwise auto WB may give you different colored
photos in the set. With RAW, this doesnt matter, can be easily adjusted when processing.
Use a gray card to make it easy to calibrate white balance, or a macbeth/xrite color checker to calibrate both WB and
exposure - take one shot with gray card/color chart next to object at the start of the set, then remove. Could write
more about how to calibrate later.
Images from the Agisoft User Manual to help understanding the camera placement through your scene, and what to
do or not to do.
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Keep in mind that the flatter the image looks, the better the results will be from Agisoft. It will also help getting a better
texture map a couple steps ahead. Now that we have all the JPEGS processed, drag and drop all images into Agisoft to
create a new Chunk on your left workspace box.
Right click on your chunk and go to Process>Align Photos, set its Accuracy to High for better results, and under
advanced you can use Point Limit from 40.000 to 60.000. It will vary depending on how large is the environment
scanned.
Right click in Chunk and go to Process>Build Dense Cloud set up Quality to High or Ultra High. The results between these two different options doesnt look relevant now but it does make some difference later in the process. I
recommend trying a Low or Lowest quality first to make sure the Dense Cloud looks good and shows fidelity with the
asset originally scanned. Once you know it looks good, you can process in High or Ultra high.
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Once you have a good Dense cloud solve you can build your mesh under Workflow>Build Mesh and set the Dense
cloud to be your Source Data and the density of the mesh you want to create. (Medium is enough sometimes.)
Now that you have your mesh built youre able to export it as a FBX file under the File>Export Model. Now you have a
FBX with your Mesh built from your captured pictures ready to be imported to Maya or any other 3D package. Export
a OBJ from your original FBX to Zbrush for cleanup purposes (Remember to keep the mesh in its original Translation,
Rotation and scale). You can import or use GoZ from your 3d package to bring the mesh to Zbrush. Once you have it
there, duplicate your subtool and convert the duplicated subtool to Dynamesh with a low subdiv to unwrap its UV.
Now that you have a mesh with no holes, you can increase your sub division until you have enough projected the this
Subtool on top of the Original Mesh and still carry all its details. Now you should have a clean geo with proper UVs
that still contains all the details from the original mesh. The holes that were filled from your Dynamesh are still flat.
Use your zbrush techniques to bring some details to those areas, but dont displace the Geometry too much in or out,
otherwise Agisoft will have some errors during the texture process.
Export your new mesh from Zbrush into
Maya to make sure its in the same place that
the Original mesh is. (If you didnt move it
around in Zbrush or in Maya when you first
brought it into Maya it should still be in the
same place.) Relax its UVs and make sure
you cover most out of your 0,1 UV space and
have the least amount of distortion possible.
Now export the new mesh again and lets go
to the final step into Agisoft.
In Agisoft, with your earlier project loaded
up, go under the menu Tools>Import>Import
mesh and leave the values of Shift to zero.
To create the texture, you can go under
Workflow>Build textures and set Mapping
mode to Keep uv, blending mode to Mosaic, and set the resolution of your map to
whatever you want. If your pictures have
some color variation due to the light shifting
when they were captured, advanced and
Enable color correction.
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To export your texture, go to Tools>Export>Export Texture. Now youre ready to use that texture to generate
your Albedo, Gloss/Rough, Specular in Photoshop, Bitmap2Material or any other software you want.
Conclusion
About Me
Guilherme Rambelli
w w w. a r t s t a t i o n . c o m / a r t i s t / g r a m b e l l i
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Efflam Mercier
www.artstation.com/artist/efflam
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Glauco Longhi
www.artstation.com/artist/glaucolonghi
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Making of Atom-Eater
3D Concept Design by : Vitaly Bulgarov
Introduction
I had a great pleasure to contribute an article to Ryan Hawkins Vertex 3 this year and one of the goals I had in mind was
to maximize the educational impact for it by trying to cover topics that are usually left behind the screen and hopefully
go beyond describing the pipeline and toolset. I was particularly interested in sharing my thinking about the concept
design process that starts in your head way before you turn on your computer. Thats why I chose to write an article
about creating a personal design piece for which I also released a time-lapse video recently. Since the video ( link here
https://youtu.be/Yi6Rg4RaIR4 ) visually covers the actual steps taken to create this piece, I can focus the attention of
this article towards either the things that were left behind the screen or describe more specifically the steps that arent
visually self-explanatory. So lets get started!
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Black Phoenix Project is an ongoing concept design exploration, centered around a fictional robotics corporation,
that develops its products in a not so distant future. Its a playground for both experimental entertainment design
ideas as well as for more grounded in reality concepts. With the Atom-Eater, I wanted to expand its line of robotic
designs with more agile prototypes that use synthetic muscle actuators and overall feel more organic than the blocky
early Black Phoenix robots.
The Idea
It all starts with an idea. I know its a clich thing to say, but realizing the importance that you need a clear idea first
will help you to avoid getting into the trap of creating something flashy that has no depth or meaning beyond its flashy
look. This is one of the reasons why you can find it a bit easier to work for a client with a clear goal/direction in mind
than to do your personal work when you can do anything you want but dont really know what it is that you exactly
want to do. Every idea worth pursuing should have a hook. A hook is, at the same time, an attribute of an idea and
a story-telling instrument that should be easy to explain and is something that will make a concept either fresh or fun
or visionary or all of it together.
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A good habit to develop is asking yourself whats the hook? and why is this worth exploring?. It all goes back to the
good old form follows function or good design needs to solve a problem, but with the entertainment design field,
it doesnt have to be so black and white. If I see something in nature that I find fascinating, either visually or functionally, that alone can be enough to inspire my daily tasks as a concept designer and help to unfold design possibilities as
I move through the process. The same thing happened with the Atom-Eater design. I was fascinated by an animal
called ant-eater and how its seemingly gimmicky anatomy actually makes perfect sense when you find out about the
environment it deals with as well as goals it needs to achieve to survive. Inspired by that, I decided to create a robotic
design that would be heavily inspired by ant eaters anatomy. Deciding on that was one of the first important steps in
concept design process which already helped me to move forward with that. At the same time, there was a need to decide what this thing would actually do and why this design would need this kind of body structure to perform its tasks.
Thats when I thought about the other idea I had, which was to explore a futuristic, quadruped, robotic platform that
could be used for such applications as cleaning up radioactive or toxic waste. Also, after a few years of following as
well as doing work in the robotics field, I realized that a modular robot with an open platform (meaning it can be
equipped with tools depending on the tasks it needs to perform) would be a much more desirable product in the future which is an appealing idea even for a sci-fi theme. Thats how a basic foundation for the Atom-eater concept
was formed. It would be an open platform, four-legged robot with anatomy similar to an ant-eater and it could be
a radioactive disposal cleaning robot, that could use its elongated head and sensors to reach hard-to-reach locations,
hence Atom-Eater. I knew exactly how it would look like at the end, but it established the boundaries within which
the final design could unfold and that was enough for me to know that I could work on it in a way that would minimize
the potential waste along the way. By waste, I mean any 3D part that is modeled and then deleted, something that
is usually an expensive thing to do for a 3D concept artist.
The reason why I wanted to spend some time talking about all this front-end thinking is that any concept worth exploring is usually a product of not just pulling the vertices time, but the time spent beforehand on the idea itself. Thats
where taking notes is a critical tool. You can use any media/format for it that you want. I constantly write down notes
for either ideas on the current projects or future project or non-existing project in a Word document or on my phone if
Im not in front of my computer. I would sincerely recommend this habit to everyone as it will save you time when you
actually get to modeling stage.
I find it very difficult to maintain a proper balance between staying creative and focused all at the same time. It intuitively feels contradictory to one another. Thats why there are a few of tricks Im using when trying to stay on target, get
things done quickly yet stay open for design opportunities that arise as I move through the modeling process. Most of
these tools are coming from basic time management techniques. Once the overall foundation for the Atom-Eater idea
was established I spent some time writing a list of items I wanted the design to include. This is the time when the real
concepting is happening, but its just still in my head. Writing it down (whether its on paper or a document) makes it
tangible and gives it energy. I would write things like:
-
Cybernetic muscles
Hard mechanical feet
Head-side flexible robotic arms with mechanical claws/hands
Partially exposed hydraulics in legs
Multiple mechanical eye openings looking in different directions
Soft pad lower leg protection
Soft skin material that protects internal mechanics
Since I already knew its body would be based on an ant eater, there were no questions about the overall proportions,
flow of the head, body, and the tail. Giving each part a challenging, but realistic deadline for its completion was the key
to moving ahead through each part and stage without getting stuck trying to get that one part perfect. Usually my philosophy is captured by this law of forced efficiency: There is never enough time to do everything, but there is always
time to do the most important thing. This leads to a critical step which is defining what would be the most important
elements of the design and how much time you want to spend (or have to spend) on the whole concept. After that,
its a matter of committing to getting it done within that time frame. I found out that it is easier to stay focused and
at the same time be creative when I divide the chunk of work I have to do in smaller portions, all the way to smaller
actionable steps and then for a given time frame focus only on that area avoiding the temptation to jump throughout
the design trying to refine it evenly everywhere. This also means that before Id start working Id budget such technical
steps like how much time I want to spend on retopology of a part (Zremeshing), etc.
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That way by the time I finish writing the design item-list it would turn into a detailed plan with each item having a
deadline. Even if it ends up taking more time than I planned, it would be much better to work in defined passes using
the plan as a road map, going from part to part, making consistent progress than taking a risk of getting stuck on one
part trying to get it right and ending up spending all the time just on that. I believe that any work tends to fill up
the time available for its completion. To take advantage of that, I try to spend my first 25-30% of all the time I have
for the entire concept on the three most important areas/elements of the design. That way I would still have time to
make consistent progress on the rest of the design. But knowing that the most important parts of it are already done
would make you more relaxed and less pressured by the passing time and upcoming deadline, therefore letting you
be more creative. Its an interesting balance that can first feel awkward, tricky, and mechanical, but when becoming a
habit can help to take on big projects with a challenging deadline without feeling stressed out which is important for
getting the creative juice going.
After writing down the initial idea and describing the visual targets of the design, its time to actually create the thing
in 3D. Here are the further stages I went through: Building a 3D blockout from a primitive in ZBrush using Dynamesh
feature
Subdividing the blockout 1-2 times for initial refinement pass of the big shapes in ZBrush with no attention to details yet. Basically, its just quick indicating where the future details are going to be placed and what direction the
flow will have.
Adding initial details using pre-modeled kitbash parts assigned to IMM brushes
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Whats really great about this approach is that you can use ZBrush Transpose tool to bend the parts to make sure they
flow along the organic surface.
Exporting the models from ZBrush into a polygonal modeling software (in this case Softimage XSI) . Finishing off the
surfaces and finalizing the integration between the parts using mostly SUBD-based poly-modelling tools. This was the
longest stage consisting of these substeps: Taking advantage of Zremeshed geometry and cutting body surfaces in
separate parts
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Separating meshes per material and assigning material groups
Look-Dev in Keyshot
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The pipeline and used software varies from project to project. For example, I started using CAD modeling software,
Moi3D, more and more not just for industrial design projects, but also for entertainment designs when I need hardedge mechanical parts with a very realistic machined-style look. But for this concept (mostly because of its organic
style) it was enough for me to rely on older tools that I have been using for years: Zbrush and Softimage XSI. In terms
of modeling techniques, these are the approaches I used for creating Atom-Eater:
-
Digital Sculpting
SUBD Poly modeling
Non-SUBD Poly modeling
Sculpting was done in Zbrush using its awesome Dynamesh feature. The power of it is that you can get a nice organic
shape that establishes overall flow of the future design in minutes by just using Move brush and Standard brush starting from a sphere (or in this case from a cylinder) and using Shift to smooth the form along the way.
For SUBD (quad-based topology with supporting edges) and Non-Subd Poly modeling technique, I used Softimage XSI,
but you can use any other 3D modeling software youre comfortable with like 3D Max, Modo, Maya, etc. Most of the
work was done using SUBD-based topology to allow subdividing the mesh before rendering to get smoother surfaces
and micro-fillets from supporting edges. For concept work, you dont need to do that unless you need the specific
look that SUBD modeling can give you. With this design, I needed that organic flow with tight transitions and surface
tension that is difficult for me to achieve using any other approach.
Non-SUBD Poly modeling was also done in XSI as it is a very fast way to fake the machined look that is hard to get
with subd-based approach. Some of the mechanical parts and also Atom-Eaters feet were modeled that way. The biggest advantage of this approach is that you can disregard the topology and basically Boolean your way out. What I
like about XSI Booleans operations is that you can apply those on objects that have n-gons and open edges (holes) in
it and still make it Boolean while keeping the history live, so you can change the position of the operands to change
the output of final Boolean.
Zbrush IMM brushes were very helpful in terms of accelerating the design/modeling process. Right after I finished a
rough 3d block-out, I started applying Insert brushes with assigned pre-modeled mechanical parts. That helped me
to populate the models with mechanical details very fast while placing the parts correctly along the normal of the
surface, which is something ZBrush IMM brushes are very good at. You can find out more about mechanical parts I
created here: www.3dkitbashstore.com
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ZBrush:
Another super helpful Zbrush feature I used for this project was ZRemesher. The zremeshed blockout of the AtomEaters body became a great quad-based base for further SUBD-based modeling in Softimage XSI. I would zremesh a
section of the Atom-Eater, for example head, then I would bring it to XSI, relax the topology, re-arrange the flow of the
edgeloops in some areas using XSIs slide along the surface with Proportional Modeling On (similar to Soft Selection).
That patch of geometry would become a foundation which I would refine using polygonal modeling tools, add thickness to it, as well as seams and other details.
Non-SUBD modelling:
30deg auto-smooth. When modeling using Booleans and N-gons in a polygonal software, one thing youll start noticing will be artifacts that are the result of surface shading continuity throughout a coarse topology. One of the ways to
fix that is to apply to a lower angle threshold value to a normal angle autosmooth in order to break that continuity in
a curved or non-straight surface. In XSI, its in Geometry Approximation panel Discontinuity Angle of Polygon Mesh.
In 3D max, the modifier is called Smooth. And in Maya, the command is called Set Normal Angle. Usually when I use a
non-subd approach, I just set a 30deg. Angle value from the start.
Split edges or Separate polygons for non-SUBD geometry. If a lower degree auto-smooth doesnt help to fix the problem you can always just disconnect the surface or edges to abrupt the surface continuity and get rid of the artifacts.
SUBD Modeling:
Relax Tool. I use Relax tool quite a bit when building smooth surfaces with a lot of polygons in it. The thing is you dont
want to spend too much time tweaking a lot of vertices by hand because of how time consuming it is to make nice
transitions by hand when dealing with heavy geo. The general rule is, if you have to pull more than four vertices into a
specific configuration, that usually means there is already a redundant step.
The beauty of SUBD modeling is in what happens when you subdivide the geo, so let the computer do the math and
try to keep mesh as simple as possible and only add geo when and where its needed. You can subdivide geometry and
add more details, but before you do, make sure youre happy with the overall form and how the surface flows because
as soon as you subdivide it and add a few details on top, it will be difficult to change topology on the fly because of
how many new polygons were created in subdivision.
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Adjacent Selection. Another tool I use a lot is adjacent selection, especially adjacent selection from polygons to edges.
This helps me to quickly select the edges without actually clicking at them. So I recommend applying Adjacent Selection commands to hotkeys that are easily accessible. Im using it every time I need to add supporting edges to newly
extruded polygons since the edges adjacent to those polygons are the ones that need to be tessellated with parallel
edgeloops.
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Post-work:
I almost always tweak the Keyshot renders in Photoshop even if its just a quick brightness/contrast adjustment. I also
like tweaking levels and color balance to create a more specific mood that fits the image.
I get asked quite often about what 3d modeling software I am going to switch to since Softimage XSI was discontinued.
So I thought Id take an opportunity to response here. My answer is, I still use XSI and am going to continue using XSI
until I find a better alternative, which is not the case at the moment. Ive been using it for a long time which made me
learn a lot of subtleties on how to make the best use of it and be quite efficient when it comes to polygonal modeling.
Ive tried to use Max, Maya and Modo and I wasnt 100% happy with it at the time I tried it which was a few years ago.
I am sure these programs will be getting exponentially better in years to come and I wouldnt be surprised if a whole
new modeling software will appear that will be so good Ill switch to it right away. At the moment, Im using a combination of these modelling tools:
-
I am very happy about the combo of these three programs and still feel there is a TON of things for me to learn about
each of them including the already discontinued Softimage XSI. That being said, Im keeping an eye on anything new
that comes out, including latest versions of 3D Max and Modo which get more and more powerful so I wont be surprised if I try another polygonal modeling very soon.
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Conclusion
If there would be a last tip/advice that could also be a conclusion, Id suggest trying to really master not just the software/toolset youre using but
also the entire process from the very vague initial idea in your head to
how you follow through it until the process becomes fully transparent to
you. Asking the right questions and being honest with yourself will help
to define what to focus on. I believe every artist is unique in how he/she
thinks. So setting up the design/modeling/rendering process to your own
preference until you feel fully comfortable with it is the key to unlocking
the creative potential. I hope you enjoyed reading this article and found
a few helpful ideas in it.
About Me
Vitaly Bulgarov
w w w . v i t a l y b u l g a r o v . c o m
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Well, folks, we have done it again. We finished yet another addition to the library. Thanks to all of our supporters
and those who contributed their time to create content for the book. I would also like to thank friends and family.
All of this would not be possible if it was not for you, the entertainment communities, letting us know that there is a
valid need for something like this out there. By sharing our workflows, tips, and tricks with one another, it can only
make our industries stronger and the content we create that much better. It is also important to know that all the
content created by the artists was done entirely in their own spare time, set aside from their jobs and social lives, to
contribute to VERTEX. None of the artists and contributors asked for any financial compensation for their time and
effort spent putting this together.
I really hope you enjoy all the content that is in the book and we have done the best that we can in such a limited
time and with limited resources. However, if you do spot something, please share it with us via email on our website.
VERTEX 3 took a little longer than we wanted to finish due to our artists getting busy with life. We appreciate your
patience and thank you for allowing us to take our time on the books.
To all of our readers, I would like to thank you for downloading this and/or spreading it to friends and co-workers.
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Thanks for yet another awesome book, VERTEX 4 TO BE CONTINUED...
Ryan Hawkins
Editor
ryan@artbypapercut.com
VERTEX