BOBBINS OF BELGIUMA.M, QUEEN SAREE oF BLEW BOBBINS OF BELGIUM ‘A BOOK OF BELGIAN LACE, LACE- WORKERS, LACE-SCHOOLS AND LACE-VILLAGES, Br CHARLOTTE KELLOGG OF th Common mand Aathr of FUNK & WAGNALIS COMPANY 1920APPENDIX. 281 ting strand in sort of embrace. When all the contours of the drawing have been traced, {he second part ofthe work begins, the exeeation ofthe points that are til in the spaces. ‘Al the points oF stitches of neeile lace are loops, simple or twisted, formed by a nese carrying single thread. (The worker Holds the teeile with the base instead of the point, for- veard) "The fst row of loops is atached to the threads ofthe outlining strand. Arriving atthe extremity of the spate she is working, the lae- rmaker begins second row of loops ronning in the opposite direction, attaching each loop to the corresponding lop of the Best row. ‘At the end ff this row she fastens it to the outing stand by one oF two stitches and stars on the third row, repeating this operation wat her space is completly covered. ‘The points of stches most Frequently em ployed are’ 1. Theplat (sketch d), oF stitch which forms the dat woven parts, which ean he more oF less tightly dean, nd serves forall the opaque parts of the lace. Tt is made by imple loope, each row being consolidated by means of a stretched thread as illus trated in the sketch se BOBBINS OF BELGIUM 4. Sich forte pot a sartace 6 Stich oe884 BOBBINS OF BELGIUM ces having been covered the lee 7 the pat covered by the buttonhole stitch. When the‘APPENDIX: 285 rode is well made, the buttonhole stitches fot low closely, touching side by side 1, Gas mesh sith to needle Tace ie ichness ana brilianey (ll ngs, te), ate aso Varieties of bodes, and are made for the most part inthe buttonfle stich ‘The bars forming the base of Verse lace sre rade in this way. “The execution of the brodes is the Binal work 286 BOBBINS OF BELGIUM in needle lace, After they are fnshed the lace ti is detached from the nerlying pattern by ‘ting the thread between the blac paper and supporting cloth, the fine thread which in the begining attached the outinng strand, There remains only to join the separate deals of the fatten by a very fine stitch called the point “The varieties of needle toes are 1. Venize (fond or bise composed of brider or bars). 1 Retcetls (Venize lace of geometric design snd made withost brodes or otlining te Tit cords) Rose Point (Venise with « design of fine branches and tenis). 4. Brusuels Point or Needle Point (very Sine Ince in which & gauze mesh replaces the tare employed in Venis).‘APPENDIX. A ted of threads mA oid brit 20° ROBBINS OF BELGIUM. crossed by the threads of the woof, she places pin, and now the two woo! threads caught By this pin lend ack to the opposite side, She tarne her cushion according to the diction of the brad she is executing, eo thatthe threads fore fg the warp always fall vertically. “The fundamental stitch in these laces and that hich fora the greatest part of the braids Is the point de tol, or tile (sketch 1.). Certain ‘open attches are also emplayed, the most com mon beng the gril or lft (sete). ‘The diferent vatities of bobbin faces made with ut threads, or in repeated pieces are ‘Bruges (the Mowers are snitea by brides oF ‘bars that are braided with four threads (etch n), 1B. Duchesse (made only with fine shread, loosely worked and prodcing 9 not par” ticularly pleasing reel) 4 Rosline (an imitation with bobbins of Rose Point. Brodes, or raised. outlines ‘made with the needle, give it rele). 4 Flanders (jn this lee the ase of brides or ‘ars js replaced by net mesh base exe- cated with a needle), 4, Applicstion (he flowers, exected tke ‘hore of Brages are sewed upon tll) 2. Lace made with uncet or” continuous295 Vaan th repeating the same operation tll the length of Ines ae st ale i she, sway about foot fg The patterns are 206 BOBBINS OF BELGIUM ‘The bobin laces made with coninsoustheead comprise Cluny and 1. Laces with a mesh tase: 1. Valenciennes, 2. Bint, 3. Malines, 4 Point de Paris, 5 Point deli Chany ‘The varieties in Group ® may try be called woven lace, becatse they contain a veritable ts que in which, tho the threads are combined in such a way 36 10 produce more or let open ‘ets, the opaque parts are woven regularly that i as linen woven. "The pattern of the tmesh of each ofthese laces is diferent Valenciennes (sketch ¢) Binche (sketch rand 5), ‘Matines (sketch), Point de Paris (sketch). Point de Lite (sketch), Fartber, Maines, Chansilly, Point de Lil, snd Point de Paris are characterized ly the pres nce of the Bourdon, or heavy thread, slightly twisted, oatlining ll the details ofthe design (Gramiant, or Chantly lace, is wsually made fof Black silk thread. "The mesh isthe sameAPPENDIX an 298 ROBBINS OF BELGIUM that of Pont de Lill. Iai dhe toile i replaced ‘occupy on the cushion of the worker: They are by the geile, which adds greatly tothe lightness held vertically with the sxivage atthe lef, ofthe effect ‘Mees of “enw tl!” patr, wed in Bike Ie ie necessary to mention with these lees Torchon, the most common ofall, which ha Hie antistie alte, and has entered more and more ito the domain of the machine.” Torchon base (sketch). N. B—To be understood technical, all these laces made with continous thread shold be con sidered from the point of view ofthe place theyAPPENDIX 290 300 BOBBINS OF BELGIUM Pot de Lil ehAPPENDIX, 301 S08 BOBBINS OF BELGIUM. Group 4.—Clany lee demand great ingen iy in exceuton. ‘The most simple are made en- ‘iely hy braing in such a way a8 to produce an lect of interlacing (sketchy). The braids ste 2 Chany pers formed of four theads; when the interlacing is more important they hecomemorecompliated, At = Toros te times the braids group theives to form the Bat ‘rlace or tole whi ater wil reoive again ato braids ‘They unite and port, sometimes dividing Jato strands (brides) of two threads according to the lines of the design. This design should beAPPENDIX 4 Interpreted Tochon ptern Complete 303 304 BOBBINS OF BELGIUM sbsolutely precise. And sine in it the fature fenplosment of each thread must be constantly foreseen, its quite imposible to. compose 4 Cluny lace pater without « knowledge of the rechnigue ofthat lace (sketchy) ‘Sometimes the general name guipore is given ta Cluny, as well ae to all Ices made with one tinuous thread which have ota mesh base