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THE

"NILE

TRIBUTARIES

OF ABYSSINIA,
AND THE

SWOKD HUNTERS OF THE HAMRAN ARABS.

BY

SIR

SAMUEL W. BAKER,

M.A. F.R.G.S.

t\

GOLD MEDALLIST OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY;

GRANDE MEDAILLK D'OR DE LA SOCI^TE DE GEOGRAPHIE DE PARIS
AUTHOR OF THE "ALBERT N'YANZA GREAT BASIN OF THE NILE," "EIGHT YEARS'
WANDERINGS IN CEYLON," " THE RIFLE AND THE HOUND IN CEYLON,"
;

ETC. ETC.

OF THE

UNIVERSITY

MACMILLAN AND

CO.

1867.

(The Eight o/ Translation

is reserved.)

001

DEDICATE THIS BOOK,

WITH SPECIAL PERMISSION,

His |icmal pgljmss Iptei

(Jtrfomrtr,

PEINCE OF WALES,
AS THE FIRST OF

ENGLAND'S KOYAL RACE

WHO HAS

SAILED UPON THE WATERS OF

THE NILE;
THE LAKE SOURCES OF WHICH MIGHTY RIVER ARE HONOUPtED

BY THE NAMES OF

HIS

AUGUST PAEENTS.

PEEFACE.

THE work

entitled

"

The Albert N'yanza Great Basin

of the Nile," published in 1866, has given an account

of the equatorial lake system, from which the Egyptian
river derives its source.

It has

been determined by

the joint explorations of Speke, Grant, and myself,

of the equatorial districts supplies

that the

rainfall

two vast

lakes, the Victoria

cient

volume

and the Albert, of

to support the Nile throughout its entire

course of thirty degrees of latitude.

stream, fed

suffi-

by

Thus the parent

never-failing reservoirs, supplied

by the

ten months' rainfall of the equator, rolls steadily on

way through

arid sands

and burning

teaches the Delta of Lower Egypt.

I 2

deserts until

its

it

PREFACE.

viii

It

would

at first sight appear that, the discoveiy of

the lake sources of the Nile had completely solved the

mystery of

ages,

and that the

pended upon the

of

fertility

Egypt de-

rainfall of the equator concentrated

in the lakes Victoria

and Albert

but the exploration

of the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia divides the Nile

system into two proportions, and unravels the entire

mystery of the

river,

by assigning

to each its

due share

in ministering to the prosperity of Egypt.

The
of

lake-sources of Central Africa support the life

Egypt, by supplying a stream, throughout

seasons,

that has

sufficient

volume

support the

to

exhaustion of evaporation and absorption

stream,

if

unaided, could never overflow

all

its

but this

banks, and

Egypt, thus deprived of the annual inundation, would

simply

exist,

and cultivation would be confined to the

close vicinity of the river.

The inundation, which by

its

annual deposit of

mud

has actually created the Delta of Lower Egypt, upon

the overflow of which the

fertility of

Egypt depends,

has an origin entirely separate from the lake-sources of

Central Africa, and the supply of water
exclusively from Abyssinia.

is

derived

PREFACE.

The two grand

ix

affluents of Abyssinia are, the

Nile and the Atbara,

Blue

which join the main stream

respectively in N.lat. 15 30'

and 17

although streams of extreme

37'.

These

rivers,

grandeur during the

period of the Abyssinian rains, from the middle of

June

until

September, are reduced during the dry

months

to

utter

coming

so

shallow as to be unnavigable, and the

insignificance;

Atbara perfectly dry.

At

of Abyssinia having ceased,

the

Blue Nile be-

that time, the water supply

Egypt depends

solely

upon

the equatorial lakes, and the affluents of the White

Nile, until the rainy season shall again

have flooded
V

the two great Abyssinian arteries.

That flood occurs

suddenly about the 20th June, and the grand rush of

water pouring down the Blue Nile and the Atbara
into

and

the parent
is

channel,

the cause of

Not only

is

its

inundates Lower Egypt,

extreme

fertility.

the inundation the effect of the Abys-

sinian rains, but the deposit of

mud

that has formed

<*:

the Delta, and which

is

rising waters, is also

due to the Abyssinian streams,

more

annually precipitated by the

especially to the river Atbara, which,

the Bahr

el

Aswat (Black Kiver)

known

as

carries a larger pro-

PREFACE.

portion of soil than any other tributary of the Nile

above

therefore, to the Atbara,

the wealth and

It

may

Egypt

Egypt be

fertility of

thus be stated

other rivers,

all

The

must

attributed.

equatorial lakes

feed

but the Abyssinian rivers cause the inun-

dation.

This being a concise

I

shall

which

summary

of the Nile system,

describe twelve months' exploration, during

examined every individual

river that is tribu-

tary to the Nile from Abyssinia, including the Atbara,

Settite,

Eoyan, Salaam, Angrab, Rahad, Binder, and

the Blue Nile.

The

interest attached to these portions

of Africa differs entirely from that of the

regions, as the

capable
either
is

White Nile

whole of Upper Egypt and Abyssinia

of development,

Mohammedan

and

is

or Christian

inhabited

by

is

no prospect of

The exploration
occupied the

first

races

while Central Africa

peopled by a hopeless race of savages, for

there

is

whom

civilization.

of the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia

twelve months

towards the Nile sources.

During

of

my

this time, I

journey

had the

opportunity of learning Arabic and of studying the

character of the people

both necessary acquirements,

PREPACK
which led to
"

my

Albert N'yanza.

ultimate success in

"

As

that title are aware, I

the entire journey by

xi

reaching the

the readers of the work of

was accompanied throughout

my wife,

who, with extraordinary

hardihood and devotion, shared every difficulty with

which African travel

is beset.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

I.

ABOVE THE CATARACT.

Sterility

Arrival at Korosko

Nubian Desert

Nature's

The

Bombs

The

Pyramids

Delicious Draught

Eocks of the Desert

Dry ness of the Atmosphere

Visit of the Ladies

nor's Friendship

Save

me

Moorahd

The perished RegiGazelles

Arrival at Berber

Halleem gives Advice The Nile

The Pillars of Sand The Gover-

Halleem Effendi's Garden

rising

of

Distance from Korosko

Arrival at the Nile

of the Desert

Yolcanic

The Crows

The Camel's Grave

Stony Sea

ment

Twenty-six Days from Cairo

from

my Friends

CHAPTER

Page

25.

II.

The Cairo Dragoman Mahomet Mahomet forsakes his Pistols

The Route to the Atbara The Dry Bed of the River The
Dome Palm Preparation of the Fruit Pools of the Atbara
Collection of Birds

and Beasts

Charms

Collodabad

of the Desert

Suffering of

Hippopotamus kills the Arab

Men

-Daring

Feat of the Fish-Eagle

Hippopotamus-shooting Hippopotami
Delight of the Arabs Fishing Catch a Tartar Lose
my Turtle Soup Gazelle Shooting The Speed of the Gazelle
Preparation of Water-skins Tanning the Hides Shoot a

bagged

Crocodile

Atbara

The River comes down

Change in the Season

The mighty- Stream of the

Page 26

54.

CONTENTS.

xiv

CHAPTER

III.

WILD ASSES OF THE DESERT.

My First and Last

dowa Arabs

for

Appetite

The

Gozerajup

The Wells

for Cotton Cultivation

The Barren

raw Meat

First Rain

Women

Arrive at Cassala

The Bishareen Arabs

The Haden-

Limits of the Desert

of Soojal up

Antelopes
Capabilities
The Arab's Prayer

Arab Migrations

Difficulty in fording the River

Gash

Hospitality of the Greek Merchant.

Page

CHAPTER

5571.

IV.

ROUTE FROM CASSALA TO SOUAKIM.

Souakim

Facilities of the Port of

quest of Nubia

Fortifications of Cassala

Cruel Taxation

Extreme Cheapness

Con-

of Corn

Arab Bread Military Position of

Prepare to start from. Cassala Mahomet's

Cultivation of Cereals

The Base

Cassala

Family Tree

Mahomet meets

Relations

We

Stalking the Ariel

Bagged the

Game

Change of Scenery

The Source

of the Delta

cross the

Egypt

The Parent
Page

CHAPTER

Gash

Descent of Vultures
of

7291

V.

THE STORM.
Cotton. Farm of

Monster

Malem

Discover Gold
a

The

Hygeen
Mimosa

of the

Sting

Georgis

The Public Enemy

HeavyAction of the Camel

Easy-goer, suitable for a

We

charge a Kittar

The Desert

Patriarch

Shoot a

Lady
Bush

El Baggar

selects

Hooked Thorns
The Scorpion's

Sudden Deluge A Regiment of Scorpions

The Migration of Camels A Milk Diet

the Atbara

Exodus

Ferocious Crocodiles

Resistance of a Crocodile's Scales

Valley of

The Arab

Pay e 32

111.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

xv

VI.

SHEIK ACHMET ABOU SINN.

The Arab Welcome

Hint

Abou

The Arab Pomade

to Octogenarians

The

Perfumery

Arab Tribes of Nubia

Sinn's Advice

The

Fatal Mixture

Coiffure

The Arab Lady's

of the World

The Arab Woman's Head-dress " The Dust became Lice through
The Arab Charms The Rabat or Arab Kiltall Egypt"
Arab Weddings No Divorce Court Anointing with Oil
Nomadic Habits of the Arabs Unchanging Customs of theArabs The Hand of God Religion of the Arabs.
Page

CHAPTER

112131.

VII.

THE DEPARTURE.
First-class

vouac

Hygeens Travelling Arrangements The Evening BiThe Junction of the 'Settite River Sheik Atalan

Wat Said Abyssinian Frontier Ismael Pasha

Mek Nimmur The Enemy of Egypt Arrival
Reception

The
I

of

Position

Cattle Fly

Sofi

Peculiarities of the Seasons

become a Householder

ment

My

Elements

at

"

Florian, the

Baby

"

An

burnt alive
at

Sofi

The

German Settler
The New Camp

Arrangement of our Establish-

African Elysium

Work

No

Pipe

The

Page 132154.

CHAPTER

VIII.

THE PLAGUES OF EGYPT.

Go

"

Half Mourning " Child of the Fever

The Arab M.D.
Arab Fondness for Relics The Pest Spots of the World The

into

Dangers of Holy Shrines Arrival of the IJoly Body The

Faky's Grave Arab Doctoring Delights of Arab Surgery

CONTENTS.

xvi

The Pig and the Koran

Arabs The Arab Shields

Sword Hunters of the Hamran

Hints for carrying the Sword

Keenness of the Edge Arab Swordsmanship The Aggageers

Elephant-hunting with the Sword Disabled by his own
Maria Theresa

Sword
the

Bank

Failure

Capabilities of the Soil

Baskets and Matting

"

You Ignoramus

Bacheet

The Baboons and

Game on

the East

Tanning of Leather
is

too attentive

Ferocity of the

Seroot

"

Oh

Fly

Native

Bacheet

Cross the

The Impromptu Raft

Stalking Giraffes Within
First Rush of the Herd
The Retreat of the
Death of the Giraffes Passage of the River The

Atbara

The

Range
Giraffes
Giraffe

Sentry

Difficult

River

across

Hunt

Seroot

for the Tetel

Fly takes
Floating
O

Men

and Cargo Scare the

devour the Giraffe Arab Music

Buoy

The Lions

Crocodiles

The

Stalk

Giraffe Steaks

Possession

Meat

Great

The drowned Elephant

Crocodile

for

Arrange to cross the River

Page 155

CHAPTER

204.

IX.

FORM A RAFT WITH THE SPONGING BATH.

Achmet

tempted by Satan Mahomet's

End of the Rainy Season The Seroot Fly
Relative absconds
"
The "Till"
That
Preparations for Fishing
disappears

The Impromptu Ferry

was a Monster!"

is

The "Bayard"

Masara the Slave

the Peninsula to Settite

Shoot

Jungle Cooking
Fishing in the Atbara

badly

Another Monster
us

The Coor

Bacheet lands

Wild Vegetables

Catch a Baggar

Fish salting

CHAPTER

Cross

A miserable Night
A Good Run

Him The

Baboons

visit

Wat

Said

Death of Atalan

The Arbour. Page 205

230.

X.

A FEW NOTES AT EH^TILLA.

Fire the Valley

Audacity

of

Arrival

the

of

Buzzard

Birds

Seized by a CrocodileThe Abomination of Thorns

CONTENTS.
Boa

The Baboons hunt

*

Constrictor

its

Horse- dealing

Sherif el Ibrahim

Sheik Achmet
tages of a

Wat

el

at

at

Mahomet
Advan-

Mansfield Parkyns

Negur

"Sweet Name"

Rush

Recall of

Arrival at the Settite

Elephants destroy the Crops

An

Good

The Hippo challenges Bacheet

Invitation to Shoot

Shot

Masses of

Berries

for

Cunning of the Crocodile Method of seizing

Arrive
Arab Saddles and Bits

small Birds

Prey

xvii

the Carcase

Elephants at Night

an Elephant

Kill

Page 231-256.

CHAPTER XL
THE FORD.
Girls carried

away by the Rapids An Amphibious Arab Girl

The Corpse recovered The Sheik lays

Search for the Body

down

Law

the

"The Fact

is

simply

The Duties

Sheik's Idea of

Impossible

of His

"The

Eour Wives

Matrimony
The Maimed, the Halt, and the Blind The Arab Fakeers
or Priests
"All the Same with a little Difference" The Cure
for Frendeet

Arrival at Katariif

The Market Day

Scenes at

Custoni of scarifying the Cheeks The Galla Slave

Purchase her Freedom Singular Misunderstanding Mahomet's Explanation Mek Nimmur invades the Frontier
the Fair

Mek Mmmur's

Tactics

Mmmur sends me his

Arm The
root

Aggageers

Florian's

Insecurity

Country Mek
Rodur Sherrif 's Withered
of

the

Compliments
Mixture for Bullets

Hunter

Arrive at Geera

We make

Arrow-

Follow a Herd of

Track up the Elephants A Tremendous Crash A

The Forehead Shot The Half-pound ExShell
Recover
plosive
my old wounded Elephant Fraternise
with the Sword Hunters
Page 257295.

Elephants

Critical Position

CHAPTER

XII.

OLD NEPTUNE JOINS THE PARTY.

The Arab Centaurs

Gun-bearers

Wild Arab Horsemanship

Off goes the Gun, and

its

Discipline of the

Master

Ombrega

CONTENTS.

xviii

(Mother of the Thorn)

Leopard springs into the Camp The

The Forehead Shot

offThe

carried

Dog

Bull Elephant

The Mountain Chain of Abyssinia A Hunt after a

Herd of Baboons The Prisoners A Course after a Tetel
The Cry of Buffaloes "We hunt and capture The Baboons

fails

The Valley of the

take Leave

The

Mahomet

Island Canip

The Bull

Settite

hears the Lions

Bas6

Page

CHAPTER

Buffalo

Tales of the

296317.

XIII.

THE LIONS FIND THE BUFFALO.

We

seek an Introduction

The

Bull Elephant

Fight,

We

Sword

find

Shot

the

fairly

kicks

Hand

in

Herd

Trident

leads

the

The

The Charge of the Phalanx

slashes the Sinew

Old Moosa

The

the

of the

Beauty

Forehead

My

"Baby"
The Boar

Neptune and

Sorcerer
Settite

Blood

tastes

Party

Abou Do

wounds Richarn
his

Abou Do's Blade

Jali

proved

viciously

The Start of the Sword Hunters

The "Baby" Screams at him The

Borders

of

the

The Hippopotamus Hunter The Hippo is harpooned

Cheer for Old Neptune Death of the Hippopotamus

River

Habits of the Animal

Character of Hippopotami
of the Hippopotamus

CHAPTER

Thigh

is

broken

Abou Do

Jungle Surgery
determine to desert A

terity

342.

XIV.

A FOREBODING OF
Jali's

Activity

Page 318

EVIL.

saves Jali

Extraordinary Dex-

We lose our best Man My

Tokrooris

required The Sick

Diplomacy
him " cried old Moosa We become
staunch Friends Abou Do's Weaknesses The Baobab The
Crop of Gum Arabic The Rhinoceros Now for a ."Tally Ho !"
The Hunt Close to their Tails" A Horse a Horse my
are dosed

" Embrace

little

is

Kingdom

for a

Horse

!"

The

last

Moment

Difficulty of

Hunt-

CONTESTS.
ing

Power

Rhinoceros Snare

Food

Attractive

Horns of the Rhinoceros

of Scent

the Rhinoceros

xix

for

Elephants

Peculiarity or

Barrake poisons herself

by a Lion

Florian killed

Gloomy Prediction

343371.

Page

CHAPTER XV.
ANTELOPES ON THE SETTITE.

The Camp

Swimming
The Escape

(A. Strepsicervs)

The Lion

The Lion Hunt

The Arabs'

Death of the Bull

Buffalo
for

The Nellut

making
Nearly

The Mehede'het An-

Eire

Caught

Eire

clears

the

The Camp in
Crocodile-harpooning The ugly

Discretion the better Part of Valour

Country

Nearly burnt out

Danger
fixed

The Bull

Sauve qui Peutf

telope

little

Rivers with a Horse

The Arab Plan

Tit-bit

Fish linked to Reptiles

Trionis Kilotica

at Delladilla

Scenes on the River's Margin

Statue

Harpooning the Hippopotamus The Harpoon

The Lances are blunted
to fight

The Hippo determines

Hor Mehetape

Geological Features

Unpleasant Report of

the Spies

Page

CHAPTER
ABOU DO

IS

372401.

XVI.
GREEDY.

Departure of the Aggageers Game returning from the River A

The Death The
stalk the Rhinoceros
Bull Rhinoceros

We

Aggageers poach upon

faces the Lion
Bait for the Lions

like the

my Manor

We

Noor

Lion

start

Vis a vis with a

Lion

Game

Highly exciting

The dying Lioness

ficulty in tracking the

Their Prize dies

Fresh

Lions

Taher

Curious Shot

Tokrooris don't

Camp DifCamp
the Wounded

Brought into

The Lion

Surprise

My

visits

Tetel faces

our

Wonderful Courage of the Horse Lions' Claws worn

as a Charm
We commence Soap -boiling Savon a la Bete
Fero:e We bury Poor Barrakd
Page 402 427.
Lion

xx

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

XVII.

WE REACH THE ROYAN.

The Francolin Partridge We watch for Game
The Banks of the Royan We find a
Bull Elephant Helter Skelter The Elephant at bay Rodur
with the withered Arm The Sword wins the Day The
nimble Base* dine cheaply The great Whirlpool The Royan

Hor Mai Gubba

Out with the Aggageers

Junction with the Settite

run

Egyptians invaded

Settite

The

Narrow Escape

Mek

Coeur de Lion

jSTimmur

I part with

Rifle bursts

my dear

Maria Theresa

The Ghost

"My

The "Lay of the Last Minstrel

JSTimmur The Reception The Poisonous

of the departed Fiddler

Introduction to

Stream

Mek

Unfortunate Contretemps
Pharaoh's Lean Kine.

Gentleman

CHAPTER

Raw

Mnimur
.

behaves

like

Page 428463.

XVIII.

A CAMEL FALLS, AND

Arabs consume the

decline

The Troop on a
We march from the

Camels

Mineral Wealth of Abyssinia

The Abyssinian Minstrel Richard

Interesting Route

Present to

Bacheet has to

Our Arabs

country

Obliged to threaten the

to proceed

Foray

Bull Rhinoceros

Mmmur's

DIES.

Arrival at the Bahr Salaam

Flesh

The Junction

of the Angrab
Four Lucky Hits A Fall over a Cliff We
Narrow Escape The Hysena enters the
save the Camel
Tent
Hippotragus Bakerii The Base of the Abyssinian

Character

of the

Torrents

Good Sport

Alps

Delightful Country

Aggahr takes

the

Lead

Follow a Herd of Elephants

at the Feet of Elephants

Fall

Benighted on our Return to

Well"

Camp

"All's

Well that Ends

Page

464482.

CONTENI^.

'

CHAPTER

xxi

XIX.

SEND A PARTY TO RECONNOITRE.

View from the Peak The

Rhinoceros attacks
The Bullet saves him ArriThe Rhinoceros Hunt Ridden to Bay
val of the Horses
Arrival of Birds of Prey
Habits of Vultures The Marabou

Ahead

of the Camels

The Maarif

the Horse

Stork

^Abou Seen

Sight, not Scent, directs the Vulture

Route

"Last but not Least"

the Atbara

Last

View

to

Nahoot Guddabi

of the Atbara

Arrive at

The Atbara ExploraPage 483

tion completed

500.

CHAPTER XX.
ARRIVAL AT METEMMA, OR GALLABAT.
Poisonous Water

The Trade of Abyssinia We encounter MisThe Missionaries' Medi-

The Theological Blacksmith

sionaries

cine-Chest

Jemma, Sheik of the Tokrooris

attack Gallabat

Settlement of the Tokrooris

The Egyptians
Industry of the

Weapons, Type, and Character The Colonisation

by Tokrooris Honey Wine of Abyssinia All Drunk Last
Night Distance from an Act of Parliament We leave GalTokrooris

A Row with the Tokrooris Tokroori Champion insists

on fighting A Real Flat-Xosed African Nigger Death of
Aggahr and Gazelle Eorced March to the Rahad The River

labat

Rahad

Page

CHAPTER

501523.

XXI.

FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY ON THE BANKS OF THE RAHAD.

Journey along the Rahad Rich Country We cross over to the

Dinder Ferocity of Crocodiles in that River Character of the

Dinder

Activity of the

Species

Peculiarity of

African Elephant

Form
C

Distinction

of

African and Indian Elephants

CONTENTS.

xxii

Destruction of

Elephant's Foot a

Forests

servation of Flesh and Fat for the

for a

March

Luxury

Pre-

Preparation of Bread

The Bos Caffer The most Formidable Animals

Wild Countries Sundry Hints Bullets for Large

Journey

Rifles for

Game

Antelopes of Central Africa and Abyssinia.

Page

CHAPTER

524546.

XXII.

WE LEAVE THE

CINDER.

Character of Abyssinian Rivers Borassus

Rufaar and the Arab Sheik The Blue Nile The

Curious Hunting Party

JEthiopicus

very gentlemanly Faky

The

toum

British

Regularly

Lion

The

" sold "

Arrival at Khar-

Zoological

themselves to Tea

Collection

intercede for

The

Mek

Ostriches

invite

Nimmur

King Theodore's Ultimatum Climate of the SouThe Sageer, or Waterof the Soudan

dan

Productions

wheel

Irrigation of

Suggestions for the

should not Science create a Delta?

Uncontrolled Action of the Nile

Series of

Egypt Why
Weirs upon the Nile

to Civilization

Ancient Works

The

Benefits to

Egypt and

of Irrigation in Ceylon

In-

Population of Egypt Capabilities for producing

The Great Sahara The Race of Life Prepare to

dustrious

Cotton

discover the

White Nile Source

....

Page 547

575.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
From

Original Sketches by SIR S.

W. BAKER.
PAGE

PORTRAITS

Frontispiece

GAZELLE-STALKING IN THE DESERT

16

THE DESERT JOURNEY

99

THE SEROOT FLY

185

FIRST RUSH OF THE GIRAFFES

190

THE BAYARD

213

THE COOR

225

THE BAGGAR

229

323

QUARREL OVER A HIPPOPOTAMUS

ARABS ATTACKING THE ELEPHANT WITH THE SWORD

254
.

TAKER SHERIFF LEADS

THE RHINOCEROS HUNT.

36 i

HEAD OF THE BLACK RHINOCEROS

THE RHINOCEROSES HAVE

IT

365

ALL THEIR OWN WAY

387

HARPOONING THE CROCODILE

393

HARPOONING THE HIPPOPOTAMUS

395

THE FIGHT WITH THE BULL HIPPO

397

GAME RETURNING FROM THE RIVER

403

THE DYING LIONESS

416

CLOSE QUARTERS WITH THE LION

420

THE WHIRLPOOL AT THE ROYAN JUNCTION

440

THE SWORD WINS THE DAY

438

HEAD OF MEHEDEHET.

469

(R. Ellipsiprymna)

UNPROVOKED ATTACK OF A RHINOCEROS UPON THE HORSE

THE RHINOCEROS RIDDEN TO BAY

488
491

OF THE

UNIVERSITY

OF THE

UNIVERSITY
OF

THE

NILE TRIBUTARIES OF ABYSSINIA,

AND THE

SWOED HUOTEBS OF THE HAMRAX AKABS.

CHAPTER

I.

ABOVE THE CATARACT.

AViTHOUT troubling the public with a description of
that portion of the Nile to

the north

of the

first

with a detailed account of the Egyptian

ruins, that have been visited by a thousand tourists,
cataract, or

commence by a few

I will

written
Cairo

at

of

close

the

boat

my

journal,

from

voyage

"May
Fahr.

the

extracts from

8,

186 1.

No

a stifling heat.

The thermometer 104

air.

Becalmed,

we have been

the entire day below the ruins of Philse.

the most imposing

monuments

their peculiar situation

mands

lying

These are

of the Nile,

owing to
upon a rocky island that com-

the passage of the river above the cataract.

The banks

of the

stream are here

ranges of hills from 100 to

250

feet

hemmed

in

by

high; these are

STERILITY.
destitute of

[CHAP.

i.

being composed of enormous masses of red granite, piled block upon block,
entirely

soil,

the rude masonry of Nature that has walled in the

The hollows between the

river.

with a yellow sand, which,

has, in
valleys.

by the wind,

drifted

many instances, completely

Upon either side of the

choked

are

hills

filled

the narrow

Nile are vestiges

The land appears as though it

bore the curse of Heaven
misery, barrenness, and
of

ancient

forts.

the heat of a furnace are

its features.

The glowing

devoid of a trace of vegetation, reflect the

sun with an intensity that must be felt to be under-

rocks,

stood.

The miserable people wha dwell

upon the
the

in villages

banks snatch every sandbank from

stream, and immediately plant their

river's

retiring

scanty garden with melons, gourds,

lentils,

&c. this

being their only resource for cultivation. Not an inch

of available soil is lost ; but day by day, as the river

rows of vegetables are sown upon the

newly-acquired land. At Assouan, the sandbanks are
purely sand brought down by the cataracts, therefore
decreases, fresh

soil

must be added

They dig

to enable the people to cultivate.

earth from the ruins of the ancient

town

they boat across the river and spread upon the

sandbank, by which excessive labour they secure suffi-

this

cient

mould

to support their crops.

In the vicinity of Philae the very barrenness of the

The iron-like sterility of
scenery possesses a charm.
the granite rocks, naked except in spots where the
wind has sheeted them with sand ; the groves of palms

CHAP.

ARRIVAL AT KOROSKO.

T.]

unexpectedly into view in this desert

wilderness, as a sudden bend of the river discovers a

springing

village

the ever blue and never clouded sky above,

and, the only blessing of this blighted land, the Nile,

between

silently flowing

its

stern walls of rocks to-

wards the distant land of Lower Egypt, form a total

that produces a scene to be met with nowhere but

upon the

In this miserable spot

Nile.

the unfor-

tunate inhabitants are taxed equally with those of

about fivepence annually for each

the richer districts

date palm.
"

good breeze, but tremendous heat.

Although the floor and the curtains of the cabin are
continually wetted, and the Venetian blinds are closed,

May

the

9.

stood at 105

4 P.M.,

thermometer, at

in

the

shade; and, upon deck, 137 in the sun. This day

The
we passed the ruins of several small temples.
generally rocky, with intervals of ten or

is

country

twelve miles of desert plains.

"May

Fine

10.

the

breeze,

boat

sailing

well.

The henna grows in

on the left bank of the river.

Passed several small temples.

considerable quantities

The

leaf resembles that of the myrtle

the blossom

has a powerful fragrance

it
grows like a feather,
about eighteen inches long, forming a cluster of small
yellow flowers. The day pleasantly cool ; thermo;

meter, 95.

"May
lat.

At

11.

22 50' N.

A.M.

we

arrived

the halting-place for

Lower Egypt with merchandise

B 2

at

Korosko

all vessels

for the Soudan."

from

TWENTY-SIX DAYS FROM CAIRO.

At

[CHAP.

i.

wretched spot the Nile is dreary beyond

description, as a vast desert, unenlivened by cultivathis

forms

tion,

its

borders, through

river rolls towards

of a tropical sun.

which the melancholy

Lower Egypt in the

From whence came

cloudless glare
this extraordi-

nary stream that could flow through these burning

sandy deserts, unaided by tributary channels ? That

was the mysterious question as we stepped upon the

shore now, to commence our land journey in search
of the distant sources.

bank, and sat

We
to this

down beneath

climbed the steep sandy

a solitary sycamore.

had been twenty-six days sailing from Cairo

The boat returned, and left us on the
point.

bank of the

east

We

Nile,

with the great Nubian desert

before us.

Korosko

Arab

huts,

is

not rich in supplies.

few miserable

with the usual fringe of dusty date palms,

compose the village the muddy river is the frontier

on the west, the burning desert on the east. Thus
hemmed in, Korosko is a narrow strip of a few yards
;

width on the margin of the Nile, with only one

deeming feature

in its wretchedness

of the old sycamore beneath which

I

we

the green shade

sat.

had a firman from the Viceroy, a cook, and a

goman.

Thus,

my

re-

dra-

impedimenta were not numerous.

The firman was an order

to all

Egyptian officials for

the cook was dirty and incapable and the
assistance
interpreter was nearly ignorant of English, although a
;

professed polyglot.

With

was before me, and thus

this small beginning, Africa

I

commenced the

search for

CHAP,

THE NUBIAN DESERT.

i.]

Absurd

the Nile sources.

a correct

commencement.

not have

commanded a

as this

may

was

it

appear,

Ignorant of Arabic, I could

who would have

large party,

been at the mercy of the interpreter or dragoman

thus, the first qualification necessary to success

knowledge of the language.

After a delay of some days,
from the

was a

obtained sixteen camels

had taken the precaution to provide

sheik.

water-barrels, in addition to the usual goat skins

and,

with a trustworthy guide, we quitted Korosko on the

16th May, 1861, and launched into the desert.

The route from Korosko

cuts off the chord of an arc

bend of the
length.

across the

made by

This chord

Nile.

Throughout

is

this barren

the great westerly

about 230 miles in

desert there

water, except at the half-way station,

moorra, bitter)

this,

although

Nubian desert

salt

is

no

Moorahd (from
and bitter, is

During the hot season in which

we unfortunately travelled, the heat was intense, the
thermometer ranging from 106 to 114 Fahr. in the
camels.

relished

by

shade.

The parching

blast of the

simoom was

of such

exhausting power, that the water rapidly evaporated

from the closed water-skins. It was, therefore, necessary to save the supply

by a forced march

of seven

which period we were to accomplish the distance, and to reach Abou Hammed, on the southern
bend of the welcome Nile.
days, in

During the cool months,

February, the desert journey

from November
is

not disagreeable

until
;

but

the vast area of glowing sand exposed to the scorching

NATURE'S PYRAMIDS.

[CHAP.

i.

sun of summer, in addition to the withering breath of

the simoom, renders the forced march of 230 miles in

seven days, at two and a half miles per hour, the most
fatiguing journey that can be endured.

Farewell to the Nile

We

turned our backs upon

commenced the

the life-giving river, and our caravan

silent desert

march.

few hours from Korosko the misery of the scene

surpassed description.
Glowing like a furnace, the
vast extent of yellow sand stretched to the horizon.

Eows

of broken

flat plain.

hills, all

of volcanic origin, broke the

Conical tumuli of volcanic slag here and

there rose to the height of several hundred feet, and in

the far distance resembled the

Egypt

were

doubtless they

ancient and

pyramids of Lower
the models for that

everlasting architecture

basalt jutted out

hills

of black

from the barren base of sand, and

the molten air quivered on the overheated surface of

the fearful desert.

the water-skins

114

137

Fahr. in the shade under

in the sun.

Noiselessly the

spongy tread of the camels crept along the sand the

only sound was the rattle of some loosely secured
baggage of their packs. The Arab camel drivers followed silently at intervals, and hour by hour we
struck deeper into the solitude of the Nubian desert.

"We entered a dead level plain of orange-coloured

the surface
sand, surrounded by pyramidical hills
:

was strewn with

objects resembling

cannon shot and

grape of all sizes from a 32-pounder downwards the

spot looked like the old battle-field of some infernal

VOLCANIC BOMBS.

CHAP. L]

not a vestige of
The slow
barren, withering desolation.
vegetation
rocking step of the camels was most irksome, and
despite the heat, I dismounted to examine the Satanic
region

rocks glowing with, heat

bombs and cannon

shot.

Many

them were

of

as

round as though cast in a mould, others were

With some diffiegg-shaped, and all were hollow.

perfectly

and found them

culty I broke them,

bright red sand

they were, in

that had been formed

to a great height

by the

fact,

to

bombs

volcanic

ejection of molten lava

from active volcanoes

become globular in

contain a

these

had

having cooled before

they reached the earth, they retained their forms as
hard spherical bodies, precisely resembling cannon

The

shot.

falling, and,

was brown, and appeared

exterior

rich in iron.

perfect spheres,

to be

The smaller specimens were the more

as they had cooled quickly, but many

had evidently reached the earth

when only half solidified, and had collapsed upon
The sandy plain was covered with such
falling.
of the heavier masses

vestiges of volcanic

lay

as

action,

imperishable relics

and the
of a

infernal

hail-storm such as

Sodom and Gomorrah.

Passing through this wretched solitude we

may have

bombs

destroyed

upon a scene

of surpassing desolation.

entered

Far as the

eye could reach were waves like a stormy sea, grey

but no
waves in the burning heat
drop of water it appeared as though a sudden curse
had turned a raging sea to stone. The simoom blew
*

cold-looking

over this horrible

wilderness,

and drifted the hot

THE STONY

SEA.

[CHAP.

i.

sand into the crevices of the rocks, and the camels

drooped their heads before the suffocating wind

but still the caravan noiselessly crept along over the

rocky undulations, until the stormy sea was passed

once more we were upon a boundless plain of sand
:

and pebbles.
Here every now and then we discovered withered
melons (Cucumis colocynthis)
the leaves had long
since disappeared, and the shrivelled stalks were
;

brittle as glass.

had a season of
were

fruits

that even the desert

They proved
life,

however short
So intensely

bitter.

but the desert

white interior of these melons, that

sembled

quinine in

the fingers,

Arabs use

taste

became a

it

this

white powder.

fine
;

and allowed

in a cup of milk,

exactly re-

it

when rubbed between

medicinally

was the dry

bitter

small piece placed

to

stand for a few

hours, renders the draught a strong aperient.

sun

The

The

that relentless persecutor of the desert traveller

sank behind the western

for night

arrived

mometer 78

hills,

and the long wished

delicious night

cool,

Fahr. a difference of 36

the ther-

between the

shade of day.

The guide commanded the caravan, he was the

desert pilot, and no one dared question his directions

he ordered a halt for two hours

was the usual stage and

halting-place-

rest.

by the

This
side

of a perpendicular rock, the base of which was strewn

thick with

camel's

produced a blazing

dung
fire,

this

excellent

fuel

soon

the coffee began to boil, and

CHAP,

THE CAMEL'S GRAVE.

i.]

were roasting for a hasty dinner.

fowls

short

snatch of sleep upon the sand, and the voice of the

The camels had not been
guide again disturbed us.
unloaded, but had lain

down

to rest with their packs,

and had thus eaten

their feed of dhurra

vulgare) from a mat.

In a few minutes

(Sorghum

we

started,

once more the silent and monotonous desert march

night I preferred walking to the

uneasy motion of the camel ; the air was most inand the
vigorating after the intense heat of the day,

In the

cool

prostration caused

charm by
limited

The

by the simoom.

desert

had a

night, as the horizon of its nakedness

was

the rocks assumed fantastic shapes in the

bright moonlight, and the profound stillness produced

an

the supernatural in that wild and myste-

effect of

rious

solitude

afreet,

and

all

Arab

the

the

in

belief

demon enemies

natural consequence of a wandering

wilderness, where nature

is

the genii

man, was a

of
life

and

in this desert

hostile to all living beings.

In forty-six hours and forty-five minutes' actual

marching from Korosko we reached Moorahd, "the
bitter well."

This

and

is

known

a mournful spot, well

thirsty camel,

to the tired

the hope of reaching which has

urged him fainting on his weary way to drink one

this is the camel's grave.
draught before he dies
;

Situated

half

Hammed,

the well of

way

between

Moorahd

and

Abou

an extinct

crater,

Korosko
is

in

surrounded upon all sides but one by precipitous cliffs

about 300 feet high.
The bottom is a dead flat, and

THE CROWS OF MOORAHD.

10

[CHAP.

forms a valley of sand about 250 yards wide.

bosom of a

crater, salt

and

bitter water is

i.

In this

found at a

To this our
depth of only six feet from the surface.
tired camels frantically rushed upon
being unloaded.
The valley was a " valley

of dry bones."

able skeletons of camels lay in all

Innumer-

directions

ships of the desert thus stranded on

their

the

voyage.

Withered heaps of parched skin and bone lay here and

there, in the distinct forms in which the camels had
gasped their

last

the dry desert air had converted

the hide into a

coffin.

there were no

worms

There were no

flies here,

thus

to devour the carcases, but the

usual sextons were the crows, although sometimes too

few to perform their

the overhanging

cliffs

worked camels taken

down exhausted on

These were perched upon

but no sooner had our over-

office.
;

their

long draught and laid

the sand, than

by common conhigh places, and

they descended from their

walked round and round each tired beast.
sent

As many wretched animals simply crawl

to

this

spot to die, the crows, from long experience and con-

form a pretty correct diagnosis

upon the case of a sick camel they had evidently
paid a professional visit to my caravan, and were
stant practice, can

of one parespecially attentive in studying the case

camel that was in a very weakly condition

and had stretched itself full length upon the sand ;

ticular

nor would they leave it until it was driven forward.

The heat of Moorahd was terrific there was no
;

shade of any kind, and the narrow valley surrounded

CHAP,

A DELICIOUS DRAUGHT.

i.]

by glowing rocks formed a natural

11

The

oven.

intense

dryness of the overheated atmosphere was such, that

our water-skins

many

of

nearly

empty

the

that

appeared

full

were

precious supply had evaporated

through the porous leather, and the skins were simply

distended by the expanded air within.

Fortunately I

had taken about 108 gallons from Korosko, and I possessed a grand reserve in my two barrels which could
these were invaluable as a resource

when

the supply in the skins should be exhausted.

My

not waste

Arab camel-men were supposed

their

own

private supply

to be provided with

but, as they

had calculated

from

my stock, in which they were diswere

on exceedingly short allowance,
appointed, they
and were suffering much from thirst. During our

upon

stealing

forced

march of three days and a

half, it

had been im-

possible to perform the usual toilette, therefore, as water

was

washing had been out of the question. Moorahd had been looked forward to as the spot of six
life,

hours' rest,

where we could indulge in the luxury of

a bath on a limited scale after the heat

the journey.

and

fatigue of

Accordingly, about two quarts of water

were measured into a large Turkish copper basin

the

although the heat was unendurable, was the only

dressing room, and the two quarts of water, with a

tent,

due proportion of soap, having washed two people,

was about to be thrown away, when the Arab guide,

who had been

awaiting his opportunity, snatched the

basin from the servant, and in the agony of thirst

drank nearly the whole of

its

contents, handing the

ROCKS OF THE DESERT.

12

[CHAP.

i.

residue to a brother Arab, with the hearty ejaculation,

"
"

El hambd

(Thank God !).

My wife was seriously ill from the fatigue and intense heat, but there can be no halt in the desert; dead
el

lUah

or alive, with the caravan

you must

travel, as the party

depends upon the supply of water. A few extracts

verbatim from my journal will describe the journey
:

"

May

6.30.

20.

12.30

Started at

Off again at 7.30 P.M.

till

P.M.

and halted

2.45 A.M.

at

About four

miles from Moorahd, grey granite takes the place of

the volcanic slag and schist that formed the rocks to

The

that point.

by a range
side of
slate is

desert

now

is

a vast plain, bounded

of rugged hills on the south.

On

the north

Moorahd, at a distance of about eight miles,

met with this continues for about three miles
;

of the route, but

of impure quality, with the ex-

it is

ception of one vein, of a beautiful blue colour.

A few^

miserable stunted thorny mimosas are here to be seen

scattered irregularly, as though lost in this horrible
desert.
"

Many

years ago,

when

the Egyptian troops

first

conquered Nubia, a regiment was destroyed by thirst

The men, being upon a limited

allowance of water, suffered from extreme thirst, and
in crossing this desert.

deceived

by the appearance

they insisted on being

It was in vain
banks by the Arab guide.

resembled a beautiful
taken to

its

of a mirage that exactly

that the guide assured

and he refused

lake,

them that the lake was

to lose the precious time

from his course.

Words

led to

unreal,

by wandering
blows, and he was

CHAP,

THE PERISHED REGIMENT.

i.]

13

by the soldiers, whose lives depended upon his

The whole regiment turned from the track
guidance.
and rushed towards the welcome waters.
Thirsty and
killed

burning sands they hurried

faint over the

and heavier

their footsteps

became

heavier

and hotter

hotter

pushed into the desert

farther and farther from the lost track where
as deeper they

their breath,

the

pilot

spirits of

them

lay in

his

the desert,

blood

and

the mocking

still

the afreets of the mirage, led

and the lake glistening in the sunshine

tempted them to bathe in its cool waters, close to
on,

At length

their eyes but never at their lips.

vanished

delusion

the

lake

fatal

had

turned

the
to

Eaging thirst and horrible despair

lost
the pathless desert and the murdered guide
lost
all lost
Not a man ever left the desert, but
burning sand

they

were

subsequently

discovered,

parched

and

withered corpses, by the Arabs sent upon the search.

"May

21.

1.45 P.M.

till

Saw two

Started at 5.45 A.M.

7 P.M.

again, at

till

8.45

9.30 P.M.,

again, at

till

4 A.M.

gazelles, the first living creatures, except the

crows at Moorahd, that

we have

seen since

we

left

must be a supply of water in the

mountains known only to these animals.
Thermo-

Korosko

meter,

there

111

Fahr. in shade;

water in the leather bottle that

at

night,

78.

The

I repaired is deliciously

In sewing leather bottles or skins for

holding water, no thread should be used, but a leathern
cool.

N.B.

thong, which should be dry

it will

then swell when

wetted, and the seam will be watertight.

ARRIVAL AT T#E NILE.

14

"May

22.

2.15 P.M.

till

7.15

till

Hammed, thank Heaven

"

Yesterday evening
chain of rugged

till

9.30

i.

again, at

Bested to dine, and started

P.M.

8.30 P.M.

at

again

Started at 5.30 A.M.

[CHAP.

Abou

4.25 A.M. reaching

we

passed through a second

hills of
grey granite,

about 600 feet high,

and descended through a pass to an extensive plain, in

which rose abruptly, like huge pyramids, four granite
hills,

at great distances apart.

resemble

artificial

difficult to

So exactly do they

pyramids at a distance, that

believe they are natural objects.

it is

feel

persuaded that the ancient Egyptians took their designs

monuments and buildings from the hills themselves,

for

and raised in the plains of Lower Egypt

artificial

pyramids in imitation of the granite hills of this form.

Their temples were in form like many of the granite

and were thoroughly encased with stone. The

extraordinary massiveness of these works suggests that
ranges,

Nature assisted the design

the stone columns

are

and the buildings are

the two common features of

imitations of the date palms,

copies of the rocky hills

Egyptian scenery.
"

Throughout the route from Korosko, the skeletons

of camels number about eight per mile, with the
exception of the last march on either side of the
watering-place Moorahd, on which there are double
that number, as the animals have become exhausted

In the steep pass through

where the heat is intense, and the sand

as they approach the well.

the

hills,

deep,

the

mortality

is

dreadful;

in

some places

CHAP.

DISTANCE FROM KOROSKO.

i.].

15

counted six and eight in a heap; and this difficult

mass of bones, as every weak
portion of the route is a

animal gives in at the trying place.

"
So dreadful a desert is this between Korosko and

Abou Hammed,
be closed

of foreign

that Said Pasha ordered the route to

was re-opened upon the application

consuls, as the most direct road to the

but

it

Our Bishareen Arabs

Soudan.

are first-rate walkers,

they have performed the entire journey on foot.

Their water and provisions were all exhausted
as

yesterday,

two

my

of

but fortunately
water-casks

had guarded the key

thus I had a supply

when every water-skin was empty, and on

the last

amongst the men,

In the hot
the still more thirsty camels.
months, a camel cannot march longer than three

day
and

divided

my

sacred

stock

days without drinking, unless at the cost of great

suffering.

"Having

(Abou Hammed) at 4.25 this

had the luxury of a bath. The

arrived here

morning, 23d May, 1

very sight of the Nile was delightful, after the parched

The small village is
desolation of the last seven days.
utterly destitute of everything,

and the

.extends to the very margin of the Nile.

sterile desert

The journey

having occupied ninety-two hours of actual marching

across the desert, gives 230 miles as the distance from
Korosko, at the loaded-camel rate of two and a half
miles per hour.

The average duration

of daily

march

has been upwards of thirteen hours, including a day's

halt at Moorahd.

My camels have

arrived in tolerable

GAZELLES OF THE DESERT.

16

[CHAP.

condition, as their loads did not exceed 400 Ibs. each

the usual load

"

is

500

Ibs.

Rested both

May 24-

A caravan

men and beasts.

of about thirty camels arrived, having lost three

during
the route.
"
25.
Started at 5 A.M.
The route is along

May

the margin of the Nile, to which the desert extends.

fringe of stunted bushes,

and groves of the coarse

and inelegant dome palm, mark the banks of the

by a thicket of about half a mile in width.

many
and
"

and succeeded

gazelles,

killing

him

with a

so wild that it

saw

in stalking a fine buck,

rifle.

Marched ten

May 26.

river

hours.

was impossible

Saw

to shoot.

but

gazelles,

Thermometer,

110Fahr.
"

May

Marched

27.

when we were

minutes,

In the evening
the party in meat.

ill.

"

May

28.

Marched

of the river,

and

hours

two

gazelles,

fifteen hours, to

is

very

which kept

make up

for

Shot a buck on the route.

The march

of yesterday cut off an angle

and we made a

straight course through

the desert, avoiding a bend of the stream.

this

forty-five

obliged to halt, as F.

I shot

the delay of yesterday.

"

May 29.

four

morning we met the Nile again

At

7.30

the same cha-

racter of country as before, the river full of rocks,

and

forming a succession of rapids the entire distance from

Abou Hammed.
sible,

and

simoom

is

Navigation at this season is imposThe

most dangerous even at flood time.

is fearful,

and the heat

is

so intense that it

ciiAi\

DRYNESS OF THE ATMOSPHERE.

i.]

was impossible
leather covers,

woodwork

All

\J

draw the gun cases out of their

which it was necessary to cut open.
to

is

warped

ivory knife-handles

are

paper breaks when crunched in the hand, and

the very marrow seems to be dried out of the bones by

split

this horrible

simoom.

of our camels fell

Shot two buck gazelles

die.

to

saw many, but they

w ild.

"May
duces

down

are very

an

The extreme dryness of the air

extraordinary amount of electricity

30.

the hair, and in

plaid laid
it,

One

all

for a

upon a blanket
is

in

Scotch

few hours adheres to

and upon being roughly withdrawn

sheet of flame

woollen materials.

in-

at

night a

produced, accompanied by tolerably

loud reports.
"

May 31.

After an early march of three hours and

twenty minutes, we arrived at the town of Berber, on

We

have been fifty-seven hours

minutes actual marching from Abou Hammed,

the Nile, at 9.35 A.M.

and five

which, at two and a half miles per hour, equals 143

miles.

We have thus marched 373 miles from Korosko

to Berber in fifteen days

tonous Nubian desert.

the entire route

is

the

Our camels have averaged

twenty-five miles per day, with loads of 400

Ibs.,

cost of ninety piastres (about 19s.) each, for the

distance.

mono-

at a

whole

This rate, with the addition of the guide's

expenses, equals about 5s. 6d. per 100 Ibs. for carriage

throughout 373 miles of burning desert. Although

this frightful country appears to be cut off from all

communication with the world, the extremely low rate

c

ARRTAIL AT BERBER.

18

of transport charges affords

[CHAP.

i.

com-

great facility for

merce."

Berber

is

a large town, and in appearance

is

similar

Lower Egypt, consisting of the

usual dusty, unpaved streets, and flat-roofed houses of

to the Nile towns of

sun-baked bricks.
Mudir, and

is

We

troops.

It is the seat of a

Governor or

generally the quarters for about 1,500

were very kindly received by Halleem

Effendi, the ex-governor,

who

at once gave us permis-

sion to pitch the tents in his garden, close to the Nile,

on the southern outskirt of the town.

After fifteen

days of desert marching, the sight of a well-cultivated

garden was an Eden in our eyes. About eight acres

on the margin of the river, were thickly

planted with lofty date groves, and shady citron and
lemon-trees, beneath which we revelled in luxury on
of land,

our Persian rugs, and enjoyed complete rest after the

Countless birds were
fatigue of our long journey.
(

chirping and singing in the trees above us; innumerable ring-doves were cooing in the shady palms
and
the sudden change from the dead sterility of the
;

and of life, produced an

desert to the scene of verdure

extraordinary effect upon the

What

caused

should this charming

teeming with vegetation and with life, be found

this curious transition?

oasis,

spirits.

Why

in the yellow, sandy desert

* Since that

Water had worked

date, 31 May, 1861, the epidemic or cattle plague

an immense number of camels, and the charges of transport rose in 1864 and 1865 to a rate that completely paralysed the

carried off

trade of

Upper Egypt.

CHAP,

this

HALLEEM EFFENDPS GARDEN.

i.]

change

19

the spirit of the Nile, more potent than

any genii of the Arabian

fables,

desert into a fruitful garden.

former governor, had,

many

had transformed the

Halleem EfFendi, the

years ago, planted this

by numerous water-wheels and we

now enjoyed the fruits, and thanked Heaven for its
and
greatest blessings in that burning land, shade
garden, irrigated

cool water.

tents were soon arranged, the camels were paid

The

and discharged, and in the cool of the evening

we were visited by the Governor and suite.
for

The firman having been

officially

presented

by

the

dragoman upon our arrival in the morning, the

Governor had called with much civility to inquire
and

into bur projects

to offer assistance.

shortly seated on carpets outside the tent,

and

pipes

We

were

and

after

and the usual preliminary compli-

coffee,

dragoman explained, that the main object

of our journey, was the search for the sources of the
ments,

my

Nile, or, as

he described

"
it,

the head of the river."

Both the Governor and Halleem EfFendi, with many

officers who had accompanied them, were Turks, but, in
spite of the gravity

and

solidity for

which the Turk

is

renowned, their faces relaxed into a variety of expres" The

sions at this (to them) absurd announcement.

head of the Nile

they

"

they exclaimed,

know where

it is ?"

"
impossible.

Do

inquired the Governor of the

and upon an explanation being given,

we did not know where it was, we had pro-

dragoman;
that,

as

posed to discover

it,

the Turks merely shook their

C 2

UALLEEM G17ES ADVICE.

20

tlieir

heads, sipped

coifee,

[CHAP.

and took extra whiffs

i.

at

their long pipes, until at

length the white-haired old

He

Halleem Effendi spoke.

advice as follows

errand

"
:

gave good and parental

Don't go upon so absurd an

nobody knows anything about the

ther will any one discover

know

its

the source of the Atbara,

the source of the great Nile

We

source.

how

Nile, nei-

do not even

we know

should

A great

portion of the

Atbara flows through the Pasha of Egypt's dominions ;

the firman in your possession with his signature, will
insure

you

territory,

respect, so long as

but

if

cross his frontier

you

the hands of savages.

of the negroes

you remain within

you

The White Nile

wild ferocious races,

his

will be in

the country

is

who have

neither

knowledge of God nor respect for the Pasha, and you

must travel with a powerful armed force the climate
;

is

deadly

search for

how

what

could you penetrate such a region to

is useless,

But how would

delicate, to

it

even should you attain

it ?

be possible for a lady, young and

endure what would

kill

the strongest

man

Travel along the Atbara river into the Taka country,

there

is

much

to be seen that is unexplored

but give

up the mad scheme of the Nile source."

There was some sense in old Halleem Effendfs
advice,

it

was the

age, but as I
salis."

was not

He was

and cautious wisdom of old

cool

so elderly I took

it

cum grano

a charming old gentleman, the perfect

beau ideal of the true old

style of Turk,

mens

all

of which remain

spoken in

"

sincerity,

and

but few speci-

that he had

said

I resolved to collect as

was

much

CHAP,

THE NILE

i.]

RISING.

21

information as possible from the grey-headed authorities before I

should commence the expedition.

deeply impressed with one

pense with an interpreter
therefore

succeed,

fact,
it

was

that until I could dis-

would be impossible

to

determined to learn Arabic as

speedily as possible.

week's rest in the garden of Halleem Eiferidi

prepared us for the journey.

the Atbara river and the

I resolved

Abyssinian

to explore
affluents,

commencing the White Nile voyage. The

Governor promised me two Turkish soldiers as attend-

prior to

ants,

and

arranged to send

my

heavy baggage by

boat to Khartoum, and secure the advantage of travelling light

has not

a comfort that no one can appreciate

felt

the daily delay in loading a long string of

Both

camels.

who

my

wife and I had suffered from a short

attack of fever brought on

the simoom, which at

The Nile was slowly

height.
still

low

by the prostrating effect of

this season (June) was at its

occasionally

it fell

one night, but again rose

rising,

although

it

was

about eighteen inches in

this

proved that, although

the rains had commenced, they were not constant, as
the steady and. rapid increase of the river had not
;

taken place. The authorities assured me that the

Blue Nile was now rising at Khartoum, which ac-

counted for the increase of the river at Berber.

The garden of Halleem Effendi was attended by a

number of fine powerful slaves from the White Nile,
whose stout frames and glossy skins were undeniable
witness of their master's care.

charmingly pretty

VISIT

22

OF THE LADIES.

[CHAP.

i.

slave girl paid us daily visits, with presents of fruit

from her kind master and numerous mistresses, who,

with the usual Turkish compliments as a preliminary
message, requested permission to visit the English lady.
In the cool hour of evening a bevy of ladies ap-

proached through the dark groves of citron

trees, so

gaily dressed in silks of the brightest dyes of yellow,

blue,

and

scarlet,

that no bouquet of flowers could

have been more gaudy. They were attended by numerous slaves, and the head servant politely requested

me

withdraw during the interview. Thus turned

out of my tent I was compelled to patience and solito

tude beneath a neighbouring date palm.

The result of the interview with my wife was most
satisfactory

replied

to,

the usual

womanish questions had been

We

and hosts of compliments exchanged.

were then rich in

all

excited their curiosity,

blished so great an

kinds of European

and a few

amount

little

trifles

that

presents esta-

of confidence that they

gave the individual history of each member of the

family from childhood, that would have filled a column
of the

Times with

Some

and marriages.
were very young and pretty,

births, deaths,

of these ladies

and of course exercised a certain influence over

their

on the following morning, we were

inundated with visitors, as the male members of the

husbands

thus,

family came to thank us for the manner in which their

ladies

had been received

and

fruit, flowers,

and the

general produce of the garden were presented us in

profusion,

However

pleasant,

there

were

draw-

CHAP,

THE PILLARS OF SAND.

i.]

backs to our Garden of Eden

Paradise

not the dust that

was dust

there

we

23
in our

see in

Europe upon
unwatered roads, that simply fills the eyes, but sudden
clouds raised by whirlwinds in the desert which fairly
;

choked the ears and

June

is

when thus

nostrils

when

attacked.

phenomena are most

At that time the rains have commenced in

the season

prevalent.

these

the south and are extending towards the north

the

cold and heavier air of the southern rain-clouds sweeps

down upon

the overheated atmosphere of the desert,

and produces sudden violent

when

and whirlwinds

squalls

time the sky

least expected, as at that

is

cloud-

less.

The
curious,

effect

as

of

their

these

desert

force

is

whirlwinds

sufficient

to

raise

columns of sand and dust several thousand

most

is

feet

dense

high

these are not the evanescent creations of a changing

wind, but they frequently exist for

travel forward, or

more usually

many

and

in circles, resembling

in the distance solid pillars of sand.

stition invests these

hours,

The Arab super-

appearances with the supernatural,

and the mysterious sand-column of the desert wan"

Gin"
dering in its burning solitude, is an evil spirit, a
I have
("genii" plural, of the Arabian Nights).
frequently seen many such columns at the same time

in the boundless
in

various

whirlwind

desert,

directions
:

this

travelling

mind

or waltzing

the wilful choice of each

vagrancy of character

proof to the Arab

bolical origin.

at

all

is

an undoubted

of their independent

and

dia-

THE GOVERNOR'S FRIENDSHIP.

24

The Abyssinian

Bruce,

traveller,

[CHAP.

i.

appears to have

entertained a peculiar dread of the dangers of such

sand columns, but on this point his fear was exaggeCases may have occurred where caravans have
rated.

been suffocated by whirlwinds of sand, but these are

rare exceptions, and the usual effects of the dust
storm are the unroofing of thatched huts, the destruction of a few date palms, and the disagreeable amount
of sand that not only half chokes both

but buries

all

objects

that

ground some inches deep in

The wind

at this season

man and

beast,

be lying on the

may

dust.

(June) was changeable,

and strong blasts from the south were the harbingers

We had no time
of the approaching rainy season.

and we accordingly arranged to start. I discharged my dirty cook, and engaged a man who was
to lose,

brought by a coffee-house keeper, by

highly recommended
deception, I led

him

but,

as

before the

whom

he was

a precaution against

Mudir

or Governor, to

be registered before our departure. To my astonishment, and to his infinite disgust, he was immediately
recognised as an old offender, who had formerly been
imprisoned for theft
friendship,

and

The Governor,

his interest in

my

to prove his

welfare,

immedi-

ately sent the police to capture the coffee-house keeper

who had recommended

the cook.

No

sooner was the

unlucky surety brought to the Divan, than he was

condemned

to receive

false character.

in spite

of

my

200

lashes for having given a

The sentence was

literally carried

remonstrance, and the police

out

were

CHAP,

SAFE ME FROM

i.j

make

ordered to

MY

FRIENDS.

the case public to prevent a recur-

The Governor assured me that

rence.

25

as I held a

firman from the Viceroy he could not do otherwise,

and that
"

must believe him

me from my

Save

proved.

friends,"

to be

my

truest friend.

was an adage quickly

could not procure a cook, neither

any

other attendants, as every one was afraid to guarantee

a character, lest he might come in for his share of the

200 lashes

The Governor came

to

my rescue,

and sent immedi-

ately the promised Turkish soldiers,

in the double capacity of escort

men

were

of

totally

Achmet was a hardy,

and

who were

to act

servants.

They

characters.

opposite

powerful,

Hadji

dare-devil-looking

Turk, while Hadji Velli was the perfection of polite-

and

ness,

cured

me

as gentle as a lamb.

My new

allies pro-

three donkeys in addition to the necessary

baggage camels, and we started from the pleasant

garden of Halleem Effendi on the evening of the
10th of June for the junction of the Atbara river
with the Nile.

CHAPTEE
"

II.

'Mongst tliem were several Englishmen of pith,

Sixteen

named Thompson and nineteen named Smith."

DON

MAHOMET,

Aclimet, and All, are equivalent to Smith,

and Thompson.

Brown,

JUAN.

Accordingly,

of

few

my

dragoman was Mahomet, and my

and subsequently I
principal guide was Achmet
had a number of Alis. Mahomet was a regular Cairo
attendants,

my

dragoman, a

but

native of Dongola, almost black,

exceedingly tenacious regarding his shade of colour,

which he declared

to be light brown.

He

spoke very

bad English, was excessively conceited, and irascible

No pasha was so bumptious or overto a degree.
bearing to his inferiors, but to

me and

to his mistress

while in Cairo he had the gentleness of the dove, and

had engaged him at 5l. per month to accompany

me to the White Nile. Men change with circumclimate affects the health and temper the
stances
I

and well-fed dog is amiable, but he would be

the man in luxury
vicious when thin and hungry
and the man in need are not equally angelic. Now
sleek

Mahomet was one

tomed

to the

of those

civilized

dragomen who are accus-

expeditions

of

the

British

CHAP.

THE CAIRO DRAGOMAN.

IT.]

27

tourist to the first or second cataract, in a Nile boat

and

replete with conveniences

the

dragoman

the minnows,

who

rules the vessel, purchases daily a

sufficiently to support

The

clears his

him

filled

until the following Nile

short three months' harvest, from

until February,

fills

Under such circumstances

angelic.

upon which he

he returns to Cairo with his pockets

profit, until

vember

upon which

monarch supreme, a whale among

is

host of unnecessary supplies,

season.

luxuries,

But times

Mahomet had

left

his granary for the year.

the

temper

had changed
the

No-

comfortable

be

should

luxurious

the

boat at

Nile

Korosko, and he had crossed the burning desert upon

a jolting camel
he had left the well-known route
;

where the dragoman was supreme, and he found

among people who treated him

common servant. " A change came

himself

in the light of

o'er

of his

and

dream

;"

Mahomet was no

the spirit

longer a great man,

temper changed with circumstances in fact,

Mahomet became unbearable, and still he was absohis

was the tongue of the expediwe should accomplish Arabic. To him

lutely necessary, as he

tion until

was an absurdity he had

from the first, and he now became

the very idea of exploration

never believed in

it

impressed with the fact that he was positively committed to an undertaking that would end most likely
in his death, if not in terrible difficulties ; he deter-

mined, under the circumstances, to

disagreeable

as

possible

amiable resolution

to

all

make himself

parties.

Mahomet adopted

With

as

this

a physical in-

MAHOMET.

28

[CHAP. n.

firmity in the shape of deafness

was more

no one

in reality,

acute in hearing, but as there are no bells

where there are no houses, he of course could not

answer such a summons, and he was compelled to
attend to the call

Mahomet

"

No

of his

contemplation of his

feet,

own

emphasis
"

Again no response.
"
don't you answer ?
effect a

like

Mahomet

reply, although the individual

sitting within a few

an additional

"

own name

was

apparently absorbed in the

"
Mahomet " with

boots.

upon the second

Mahomet, you

syllable.

rascal,

why

This energetic address would

change in his position

the mild and lamb-

dragoman of Cairo would suddenly

start

from the

own hair from his head in handfuls,

Mahomet Mahomet Mahomet always

ground, tear his

"

and shout,

Mahomet!

back in Cairo,

n Mahomet!
this brute

dragoman would then beat

with his

fists,

in a

To comfort him

Mahomet
his

head

thrash

him

Mahomet
his

!"

own head

him

pummel him

best

The

irascible

unmercifully

rage.

could only exclaim,

you know him

wish he were dead, or

paroxysm of
I

"

Well done,

well

he deserves

punch

it

don't

"

This advice, acting upon the natural

perversity of his disposition, generally soothed him,
This man was
and he ceased punching his head.
spare

entirely out of his place, if not out of his mind, at

certain

moments, and

having

upon

one

occasion

smashed a basin by throwing it in the face of the

cook, and upon another occasion narrowly escaped
homicide,

by throwing an axe

at a

man's head, which

CHAP,

MAHOMET FORSAKES HIS

ii.]

missed by an inch,

lie

PISTOLS.

29

became a notorious character

in the little expedition.

We left

Berber in the evening at sunset we were

mounted upon donkeys, while our Turkish attendants
;

rode upon excellent dromedaries that belonged to their

As

regiment of irregular cavalry.

to start,

Mahomet was

the last

usual,

when ready

he had piled a huge

mass of bags and various luggage upon

that almost obscured the animal, and he

his

donkey,

sat

mounted

upon this pinnacle dressed in gorgeous clothes, with a

brace of handsome pistols in his belt, and

his

gun

Upon my remonstrating
slung across his shoulders.
with him upon the cruelty of thus overloading the
immediately, he drew his pistols

and dismounting
from his belt and

dashed them upon the ground

his

donkey, he flew into a

fit

of rage,

gun shared the

and leaving his weapons upon the sand, he

sullenly walked behind his donkey, which he drove
same

fate,

forward with the caravan.

We

pushed forward at the usual rapid amble of the

donkeys, and accompanied by Hadji Achmet upon
his dromedary, with the coffee-pot, &c. and a large
Persian rug

slung behind the

saddle,

we

distanced the slower caravan under the

quickly

charge

Hadji Velli and the sullen Mahomet.

There was no difficulty in the route, as the

of

sterile

and pebbles was bounded by a fringe of

bush and mimosa that marked the course of the Nile

desert of sand

There was no object to

attract particular attention, and no sound but that of

to

which our way lay

parallel.

THE ROUTE TO THE ATBJRA.

30

[CHAP. n.

homeward by the Arab boys,

and the sharp cry of the desert sand grouse as they
arrived in flocks to drink in the welcome river.
The

the bleating goats driven

of these birds

extremely rapid, and is more

than
the grouse ; they inhabit
pigeon
the desert, but they travel great distances both
night
flight

is

like that of the

and morning

As they approach

a day.
"

to water, as they invariably drink twice

Chuckow,

the river they utter the cry

chuckow," in a loud clear note,

and im-

they return upon their long

There are several varieties of the

mediately after drinking

flight to the desert.

sand grouse.

have met with

dry, tough, and worthless

"We

slept

but they are

as

game.
desert about

the

in

three,

miles from

five

Berber, and on the following day, after a scorching

march of about twenty miles, we arrived at the junction of the Atbara river with the Nile.

Throughout

the route the barren sand stretched to the horizon on

the

left,

the

soil

while on the right, within a mile of the Nile,

was

amount

sufficiently rich

of vegetation

Asclepias gigantea.
in Ceylon, where

chiefly

The

it is

to

support a

dwarf mimosas and the

latter I

had frequently seen

used medicinally by the native

was ignored, except

duce of a beautiful silky down which
doctors

but here

certain

it

for the prois

used

for

stuffing cushions and pillows.

This vegetable silk is

contained in a soft pod or bladder about the size of an
orange.

Both the leaves and the stem of

this plant

emit a highly poisonous milk, that exudes from the

bark when cut or bruised ; the least drop of this will

CHAP,

THE DRY BED OF THE RI7ER.

ii.]

cause total blindness,

if

31

in contact with the eye.

have seen several instances of acute ophthalmia that

have terminated in loss of sight from the accidental
rubbing of the eye with the hand when engaged in
The wood is
cutting firewood from the asclepias.
extremely

light,

and

is

and used by the Arabs

swimming,

shunned by all other animals,

is nevertheless
greedily devoured by goats, who eat
unharmed.

the plant cause

it

as a support while

Although the poisonous qualities of

in lieu of cork.

it

frequently tied into faggots

It

it

to be

was about two

arrived at the steep

hours after

sunset

bank of the Atbara

when we

river.

Push-

ing through the fringe of young dome palms that

formed a thick covert upon the margin, we cautiously
descended the bank for about twenty-five feet, as the
bright glare of the river's bed deceived

resemblance to water.

We

me by

the

found a broad surface of

white sand, which at that season formed the dry bed

of the river.
Crossing this arid bottom of about 400
yards in width,

by a bed
water.

we unsaddled on

the opposite side,

of water melons planted near a small pool of

A few

tired donkeys,

of these

we chopped

and we shared

in pieces for our

in the cool

and welcome

luxury ourselves that was most refreshing after the

Long before our camels
fatigue of the day's journey.
arrived,

we had drunk our

coffee

and were sound

upon the sandy bed of the Atbara.

At daybreak on the following morning, while

asleep

the camels were beiog

loaded, I strolled to a small

THE DOME PALM.

32

pool in the sand, tempted

[CHAP. n.

by a couple of wild geese

these were sufficiently unsophisticated as to allow

to approach within shot,

and

and secured our breakfast

saddled,

me

bagged them both,

they were the common
I

Egyptian geese, which are not very delicate

The donkeys being

we

eating.

at once started with

our attendant, Hadji Achinet, at about five miles per

The route
hour, in advance of our slower caravan.

was upon the

margin, due east, through a sandy

mimosas which fringed the river's
about a quarter of a mile on either side ;
river's

copse of thorny
course for

beyond this all was desert.

The Atbara had a curious appearance
in no
part was it less than 400 yards in width, while in
;

many

places this breadth

was much exceeded.

The

banks were from twenty-five to thirty feet deep

these had evidently been overflowed during floods,
:

but at the present time the river was dead not only
partially dry, but so glaring was the sandy bed, that
the reflection of the sun was almost unbearable.
;

Great numbers of the dome palm (Hyph&ne Thethese trees are of

laica, Mart.) grew upon the banks
;

great service to the

Arab

tribes,

who

at this season of

drought forsake the deserts and flock upon the margin

of the Atbara.

The

leaves of the

dome supply them

with excellent material for mats and ropes, while the

The dome
fruit is used both for man and beast.

palm resembles the palmyra

of

its

in the

fan-shaped leaves, but there

peculiarity in

the growth

is

form and texture

a distinguishing

instead of the straight

CHAP,

PREPARATION OF THE FRUIT.

ii.]

33

stem of the palmyra, the dome palm spreads

into branches, each of which invariably represents the

single

The

Y.

letter

fruit

grows in dense

num-

clusters,

bering several hundred, of the size of a small orange,

but of an irregular oval shape ; these are of a rich

brown

and bear a natural polish as though

So hard is the fruit and uninviting to

colour,

varnished.

the teeth, that a deal board would be equally prac-

mastication

ticable for

tween

stones,

the Arabs

by which rough

pound them be-

process

they detach

the edible portion in the form of a resinous powder.

The rind of the nut which produces

about

an inch

of

quarter

thick

this
;

powder

this

is

coating

covers a strong shell which contains a nut of vegetable ivory,

When

larger than a full-sized walnut.

the resinous powder

eaten raw, or

with milk

little

it

is

boiled into

is

it is

detached,

either

a delicious porridge,

this has a strong flavour of gingerbread.

The vegetable ivory nuts

are then soaked in water

for about twenty-four hours,

heaped in large

piles

upon a

and thoroughly steamed

after which,
fire

they are

until nearly dry,

them

this process renders

be reduced by pounding in a
heavy mortar. Thus broken into small pieces they
somewhat resemble half-roasted chestnuts, and in this
sufficiently tractable to

state

they form excellent food for

dome palm is
when in times
corn has failed.

cattle.

The

useful

the chief support of the desert Arabs

of drought

At

and

scarcity the supply of

this season (June) there

was not

a blade of even the withered grass of the desert

oases.

34

POOLS OF THE ATBARA.

Our donkeys

lived

[CHAP. n.

dhurra

the

upon

exclusively

(Sorglium Egyptiaca) that we carried with us, and

the camels required a daily supply of corn in
addition to the dry twigs and bushes that formed

dusty food.

their

The margin of the

miserable and uninviting

entirely

leafless

in

trees

was

the trees arid bushes were

from the intense heat, as are the

The only shade

by the evergreen dome palms never-

England during winter.

was afforded
theless,

river

the Arabs occupied the banks at intervals

of three or four miles, wherever a pool of water in

some deep bend of the dried

river's

bed

an

offered

such places were Arab villages or

camps, of the usual mat tents formed of the dome

attraction

in

leaves.

palm

Many

pools

depth.

great

were

of

considerable

and of

size

In flood-time a tremendous torrent

sweeps down the course of the Atbara, and the

sudden bends of the river are hollowed out by the
force of the stream to a depth of

below the level of the bed.

feet

holes

become

Accordingly, these

reservoirs of water

otherwise exhausted.

twenty or thirty

when

In such asylums

the river
all

is

the usual

inhabitants of this large river are crowded together

comparatively narrow space. Although these

pools vary in size, from only a few hundred yards
to a mile in length, they are positively full of life;
in

huge

fish,

crocodiles of

immense

size,

turtles,

and

casionally hippopotami, consort together in close

unwished-for proximity.

The animals

oc-

and

of the desert

CHAP,

COLLECTION OF BIRDS.

ii.]

gazelles,

hyenas, and wild asses

35

are

compelled to

crowded drinking-places, occupied by

of the Arabs, equally with the timid

resort to these

the

flocks

beasts
cooler

The birds that during the

months would wander free throughout the
of

the

country, are

chase.

now

collected in vast

margin of the exhausted river;

numbers along the

innumerable doves,

varying in species, throng the trees and seek the

dome palms

thousands of desert grouse

arrive morning and evening to drink and to depart;
shade of the

while birds in multitudes, of lovely plumage, escape

from the burning desert, and colonize the poor but

welcome bushes that fringe the Atbara river.

The heat was

intense.

As we

margin of the Atbara, and

travelled along the

with the suffering

animals the exhaustion of the climate, I acknowfelt

ledged the grandeur of the Nile that could overcome

the absorption of such thirsty sands, and the evaporation

caused by the burning atmosphere of Nubia.

For nearly 1,200 miles from the junction of the

Atbara with the parent stream to the Mediterranean,
not one streamlet joined the mysterious river, neither
one drop of rain ruffled its waters, unless a rare
thunder-shower, as
the

Arabs

as

a curious phenomenon, startled

they

travelled

Nevertheless the Nile overcame

along
its

the

desert.

enemies, while

the Atbara shrank to a skeleton, bare and exhausted,

reduced to a few pools that lay like blotches along

the broad surface of glowing sand.

Notwithstanding

the

overpowering
D 2

sun,

there

CHARMS OF THE DESERT.

36

were certain
season

it

water, as

was unnecessary

it

the

at

traveller

this

to carry a large supply of

could be obtained at intervals of a few

There was an indescribable delight in the

miles.

cool

to

advantages

[CHAP. n.

night, when,

weather,

we could

in the

perfect

rest in the

certainty

of

fine

open air with the clear

There were no mos-

sky above us.

quitoes, neither were there any of the insect plagues
bright starlit

of the tropics;

was too dry for the gnat

and the moment of sunset was the signal for

tribe,

the

air

perfect enjoyment, free

As

African travel.

from the usual drawbacks of

the river's pools were the only

drinking places for birds and game, the gun supplied

not only my own party, but I had much to give
to the

away

Arabs in exchange

meal of the dome nuts, &c.

for goat's milk, the

Gazelles were exceedingly

numerous, but shy, and so difficult to approach that

At this season
they required most careful stalking.
of intense heat they drank twice a day
at about an

hour

after sunrise,

and half an hour before

The great comfort

of travelling along

of the river in a desert country

is

sunset.

the

bank

the perfect free-

as a continual supply of water enables the ex-

dom,

plorer to rest at his leisure in

where
features

game

is

of the

plentiful,

country

or

invite

any attractive spot

where the natural
investigation.

We

some days' journey, at a

spot named Collodabad, where an angle of the river
had left a deep pool of about a mile in length

accordingly halted, after

this

was the

largest

sheet

of

water that

we had

CHAP,

seen

SUFFERING OF

ii.]

throughout

the

MEN AND

course

BEASTS.

the

of

37

Atbara.

number of Arabs had congregated at this spot with

their flocks and herds
the total absence of verdure
;

had reduced the animals to extreme leanness, as the

goats gathered their scanty sustenance from the
seed-pods of the mimosas, which were shaken
the

to

by the Arab

flocks

expectant

long

hooked

oily,

and resembled

These seeds

poles.

linseed,

boys,

down
with

were

extremely
but the rank flavour

was disagreeable and acrid.

This spot was seven days' march from the Nile
junction, or about

160

extremely monotonous, as
in the scenery;

the

it

was the interminable

streak

solitary

The journey had been

there had been no change

miles.

of

vegetation

in

desert,

the

with

belt

of

mimosas and dome palms, about a mile and a half

in width, that marked the course of the river.
I

had daily shot gazelles, geese, pigeons, desert grouse,

&c. but no larger game.
I was informed that at
this spot, Collodabad, I should
first

be introduced for the

time to the hippopotamus.

Owing

to

the

total

absence of nourishing food,

the cattle produced a scanty supply of milk; thus

the Arabs,

who depended

chiefly

upon

their

flocks

were in great distress, and men

and beasts mutually suffered extreme hardship. The
Arabs that occupy the desert north of the Atbara

for their subsistence,

was among a large concourse

these people that we pitched our tents on the

are the Bishareens

of

it

banks of the river at Collodabad.

COLLODABAD.

38

[CHAP. n.

This being the principal watering-place along the

deserted bed of the Atbara, the neighbourhood

swarmed

literally

with

sand

doves,

other birds, in addition to

Early in the morning

many

and

grouse,

geese and pelicans.

procured an Arab guide

to search for the reported hippopotami.

My

tents

were among a grove of dome palms on the margin

thus I had a clear view of the bed for
of the river
;

This

a distance of about half a mile on either side.

portion

of

the

Atbara

width, the banks were

cular depth

was about

500

about thirty feet

yards

in

perpendi-

and the bend of the river had caused

formation of the deep hollow on the opposite

side, which now formed the pool, while every other
the

part was dry.

This pool occupied about one-third

the breadth of the river, bounded

by the sand upon

and by a perpendicular cliff upon the

other, upon which grew a fringe of green bushes
These were the only succulent
similar to willows.
one

side,

leaves that I

had seen

since I left Berber.

"We descended the steep sandy bank in a spot

that the Arabs had broken down to reach the water,
and, after trudging across about 400 yards of deep
sand,

we reached

the pool

the extreme and narrowest end of

here for the

first

time I saw the peculiar

four-toed print of the hippopotamus's foot.

bed

had been planted here by the Arabs in

the moist sand near the water, but the fruit had

of melons

been entirely robbed by the hippopotami.

is

exactly adapted for the

mouth

melon

of this animal, as

CHAP.

HIPPOPOTAMUS KILLS THE ARAB.

ii.J

39

crunch the largest at one squeeze, and

revel in the juice.
Not contented with the simple
could

lie

hippopotamus had
The Arab wished to

fruits of the garden, a large bull

recently killed the proprietor.

drive

it

from his plantation, but was immediately

by the hippo, who caught him in its mouth

and killed him by one crunch. This little incident

attacked

had rendered the hippo exceedingly daring, and it

had upon several occasions charged out of the water,

when

the people had driven their goats to drink;

therefore

would be the more

it

satisfactory to obtain

a shot, and to supply the hungry Arabs with meat

at the expense of their

At

the pool, thus

fresh

all

the tracks upon the margin were

and undisturbed

crocodiles that

while

many

there were the huge

had recently returned

of great size were

sand in the distance

as

enemy.
no one had descended to

this early hour, 6 A.M.,

still

marks of

to the water,

lying upon the

these slowly crept into the pool

The Arabs had dug small holes

we approached.

the sand within a few yards of the water

these were

the artificial drinking-places for their goats

that would have been snapped

in

and

up by the

sheep,

crocodiles

had they ventured to drink in the pool of crowded

I walked for about a mile and a half
monsters.
along

the

sand

without

seeing

potami, except their numerous tracks

gin.

of hippo-

sign

upon the mar-

There was no wind, and the surface of the

water was unruffled

thus I could see every creature

that rose in the pool either

to breathe

or

to

bask

DARING FEAT OF THE FISH-EAGLE.

40

[CHAP.

11.

morning sunshine. The number and size of

fish, turtles, and crocodiles were extraordinary

in the

the

many

beautiful

their

for

in

morning
disturbed

pairs,

cry

alarm

of

grouse in

from

gazelles approached

as

draught

wild

geese, generally

the

wary crocodiles by
we drew near, and the

many thousands had

of

flocks

sides

all

together, and were

their

desert

gathered

circling in a rapid flight above

the water, wishing, but afraid, to descend and drink.

Having a shot gun with me

at one

discharge,

fired

and

killed six

wounded

but one of the

birds

having fallen into the water at a distance of about

120 yards, it was immediately seized by a whitethroated

fish

which

eagle,

swooped down upon

the

fire-arms,

known
I

to the

had

bird,

utterly disregarding

of the desert.

killed several

wild geese for breakfast in

the absence of the hippopotami,

heard

the

loud

peculiar

animals in

my

rear

tree,

sound of a gun was un-

thus the

game

upon a

The Bishareen Arabs have

the report of the gun.

no

perched

when

snorting

suddenly

neigh

of these

we had passed them unper-

they had been beneath the surface. After

a quick walk of about half a mile, during which
time the cry of the hippos had been several times
ceived. as

repeated,

observed

six

of

these

curious

animals

There
standing in the water about shoulder-deep.
was no cover, therefore I could only advance upon
the sand without a chance of stalking them

this

caused them to retreat to deeper water, but upon

CHAP,

my

HIPPOPOTAMUS SHOOTING.

ii.]

heads

about eighty yards, they raised

up, and snorted an impudent

arrival within

their

well

Ceylon No. 10 double

at the temple of
rifle, and, taking a steady aim
one that appeared to be the largest, the ball cracked
Never had there been
loudly upon the skull.

had

challenge.

a commotion

such

report of the

old

my

the pool

in

the water, and, falling backwards,

of violent struggles
side,

the

but the sixth hippo leaped half out of

like stones,

one

At

heads sank and disappeared

five

rifle,

now

as

with

all

now upon

commenced a

its

back

series

then upon

four legs frantically paddling,

and foam

and

then waltzing
round and round with its huge jaws wide open,
of the
raising a swell in the hitherto calm surface
raising a cloud

water.

of spray

quick

with the left-hand

shot

barrel

produced no effect, as the movements of the animal

were too rapid to allow a steady aim at the fore-

head

accordingly took

double

rifle

No.

24,

my

and,

trusty

obtain a close

shot,

between

eyes, near

crown

At the

report of the

appeared

the

little

Fletcher*

running knee-deep

the water to
the

little

fired

of

into

exactly

the

head.

Fletcher the hippo dis-

the tiny waves raised

by the commotion

broke upon the sand, but the game was gone.

This being my first vis-d-vis with a hippo,
* This
excellent

and handy

rifle

of Gloucester, and accompanied

me

was made by Thomas Fletcher,

like a faithful

dog throughout
journey of nearly five years to the Albert N'yanza, and returned with me to England as good as new.

my

HIPPOPOTAMI BAGGED.

42

was not certain whether

he was gone, but where

upon the

speculating

rush of water, and I

could claim the victory

case,

saw

[CHAP. n.

However, while I was

I heard a tremendous

five

hippopotami tearing
through a portion of the pool
that was not deep enough to cover them above the
shoulder ; this was the affair of about half a minute,
along in

trot

full

as they quickly reached deep water,

hundred and

at about a

The

of five

fact

counted six

in the

and disappeared

yards distance.

fifty

hippos in

retreat

onset was

conclusive that

waltzing friend was either dead or

after I

disabled; I

had

my
ac-

cordingly lost no time in following the direction of

Hardly had

the herd.

I arrived at the spot

where

they had disappeared, when first one and then

another head popped up and again sank, until one
more hardy than the rest, ventured to appear within
yards, and

fifty

the No.
the

10

crashed

waltzing
of

and
a

paddling
stunned hippo in
to

the

water,
I

shore

through his head,

struggling

steamer
its

that

Once more

as before.

and again

commenced

this

time,

like

the

however,

the

convulsive efforts came so close

I

killed

it

directly in shallow

by a forehead shot with the

concluded from this result that

little

my

Fletcher.

first

hippo
be lying dead in deep water.
The Arabs, having heard the shots fired, had begun

must

to

bellow

to

also

gather

towards the spot,

and, upon

my men

shouting that a hippo was killed, crowds came running to the place with their knives and ropes, while

CHAP.

DELIGHT OF THE ARABS.

ii.J

others returned to their

encampment

43
to fetch camels

In half an hour

and mat bags

to convey the flesh.

at least three

hundred Arabs were on the spot

the

hippo had been hauled to shore by ropes, and, by the

united efforts of the crowd, the heavy carcase had

been rolled to the edge of the water. Here the attack

commenced ; no pack of hungry hyaenas could have

gave them permission to take

and in an instant a hundred knives were

been more savage.

the
at

No

flesh,

work

they fought

over the spoil

like

wolves.

sooner was the carcase flayed, than the struggle

commenced

the meat

for

the people were a mass

some stood thigh-deep in the reeking

wrestling for the fat, while many hacked

of blood, as
intestines

hands for coveted portions that were

as a bonne louche.
I left the savage

at each other's

striven for

crowd in

their ferocious

enjoyment of

and blood,

flesh

and ^returned to camp for breakfast, my Turk, Hadji

Achmet, carrying some hippopotamus steaks.
That morning my wife and I breakfasted upon
our first hippo, an animal that was destined to be
our general food throughout our journey

among

the

Abyssinian tributaries of the Nile.

After breakfast

we

search

strolled

down

to

the

pool

to

for

the

hippopotamus No. 1. This we at once found dead,

as it had risen to the surface, and was floating
like the back of a turtle a few inches above the
water.

The Arabs had been

division of
their

new

their spoil that

prize

accordingly,

so

intent

they had not

upon the

upon the
observed

signal being

44

FISHING.

given, a general rush took place,

[CHAP. n.

and

in half an hour

a similar scene was enacted to that of hippo No.

The
full

of

entire

Arab camp was

joy at

commotion and

in

unlooked-for

this

2.

arrival

of

flesh.

Camels laden with meat and hide toiled along the

sandy bed of the river the women raised their long
;

and

cry of delight

shrill

and we were looked upon

having brought them a

as general benefactors for

supply of good food in this season of distress.

In the afternoon I arranged my tackle, and
strolled down to the pool to fish.
There was a
in procuring bait
a worm was never
heard of in the burning deserts of Nubia, neither
had I a net to catch small fish; I was, therefore,
difficulty

obliged

with

bait

to

of

pieces

hippopotamus.

Fishing in such a pool as that of the Atbara was

exciting,

sufficiently

late

upon what

tion; but

the

as

was impossible

it

creature might

Arabs who

particular in guarding

me

accept

accompanied

to specu-

the

invita-

me, were

against the position I

had

taken under a willow-bush close to the water, as

they explained, that most probably a crocodile would
take me instead of the bait; they declared that
accidents had frequently happened
sat

upon the bank

either to drink

when

with their hands,

or even while watching their goats.

fished at a

few

people had

I accordingly

from the margin, and

landed a species of perch

feet distant

presently I had a bite

about two pounds weight; this was the "boulti,"

one of the best Nile fish mentioned by the traveller

CHAP,

CATCH A TARTAR.

ii.]

45

had caught a respectable

but hitherto no monster had paid me

Bruce.

In a short time

dish of

fish,

the slightest

changed my
and
fitted
a
bait,
upon
powerful hook,
upon trebletwisted wire, I fastened an enticing strip of a boulti.

The

attention

accordingly

was about four ounces, and glistened like

the water was tolerably clear, but not too

bait

silver

bright,

and with such an

My

thing heavy.
for live bait,

and

float

this

attraction I expected some-

was a

large-sized pike-float

civilized

sign

a few minutes in the wild waters

when, bob

and away

it

went

of the

Atbara,

had a very large

had been only

with nearly three hundred yards of line that

had been specially made for monsters down went

reel,

the top of

my

rod as though a grindstone was sus-

pended on it, and, as I recovered its position, away

went the line, and the reel revolved, not with the
sudden dash of a

spirited fish, but

with the steady

horse.
What on

determined pull of a trotting

In a few minutes about
earth have I got hold of?
a hundred yards of line were out, and as the crea-

but slowly, travelling down the

"
"
centre of the channel, I determined to cry
halt

was

ture

steadily,

if possible,

my

as

my

tackle

was extremely

rod was a single bamboo.

strong,

and

Accordingly, I put

which was replied to by a

sullen tug, a shake, and again my rod was pulled
on a powerful

suddenly
after

the

slack

line,

down

strain,

to

roughest
as

the

water's edge.

handling,

my unknown

At
to

began
friend had

length,
reel

in

doubled

MY

LOSE

46

TURTLE SOUP.

[CHAP. n.

upon me, and upon once more putting severe

pressure upon him or her, as it might be, I per-

in

ceived a great

about twenty
The tackle would bear any-

yards from the rod.

and

thing,

water

the

in

swirl

strained

so

heavily upon

sary that I soon reduced our distance

adver-

my

but the water

was exceedingly deep, the bank precipitous, and he

was still invisible. At length, after much tugging
began to show
eagerly
to
acinto
the
water
examine
new
my
gazed

and counter-tugging,
I

quaintance,

when

he

made out something

below, in

shape between a coach-wheel and a sponging-bath ;

in a few more moments I brought to the surface

enormous

an

old lady
I

who won an

had him was

hooked.

well

turtle,

felt

like

elephant in a lottery

certain,

the
that

but what was I to do with

hundred pounds'
weight, and the bank was steep and covered with
bushes thus it was impossible to land the monster,

my

prize

It

was

at the least a

now tugged and dived with

that

of the grindstone that his

first

the determination

pull

had suggested.

attempted the gaff, but the trusty weapon

that had landed many a fish in Scotland broke in

Once

the hard shell of the

My

Arab now came

turtle,

to

terminated the struggle.

my

and

assistance,

was
and

helpless.

at once

Seizing the line with both

remonstrance (which,
being in English, he did not understand), he quickly
hauled our turtle to the surface, and held it, strughands, utterly regardless of

gling and gnashing

its

all

jaws, close to the steep bank.

CHAP.

GAZELLE SHOOTING.

ii.J

47

In a few moments the line slackened, and the turtle

The

disappeared.

was over

fight

The sharp horny

jaws had bitten through treble- twisted brass wire

though cut by shears. My visions of

turtle soup had faded.
The heavy fish were not in the humour to take, I

as

clean as

therefore shot one with a

rifle

as

it

came

to the surface

to blow, and, the water in this spot being shallow,

brought

it

to shore

it

was a

and forty pounds

than a crown piece, and
thirty

species of carp,

we

between

the scales were rather larger

hard that they would have

so

with a harpoon. It proved to

be useless for the table, being of an oily nature that
been

difficult to pierce

was only acceptable

to the Arabs.

In the evening I went out stalking in the desert,

and returned with five fine buck gazelles. These
beautiful creatures so exactly resemble the colour of

the sandy deserts which they inhabit, that they are

most

difficult to distinguish,

ness

renders

and

their extreme shy-

upon foot very uncertain. I

accordingly employed an Arab to lead a camel, under
cover of which I could generally manage to approach
stalking

within a hundred yards.

sixty to seventy pounds,

and

cular

development.

gazelles in

No

buck
is

gazelle weighs

from

the perfection of mus-

person

who

has seen the

confinement in a temperate climate can

form an idea of the beauty of the animal in its native

desert.
Born in the scorching sun, nursed on the
burning sand of the treeless and shadowless wilderness, the gazelle is

among

the antelope tribe as the

THE SPEED OF THE GAZELLE.

48

Arab horse

is

its

among

[CHAP

brethren, the high-bred

The skin

superlative beauty of the race.

and

as sleek

is

as satin, of a colour difficult to describe, as

11.

it

varies

between the lightest mauve and yellowish brown the

the legs, from the knee downbelly is snow-white
;

and are

though carved
from ivory the hoof is beautifully shaped, and tapers
to a sharp point the head of the buck is ornamented
by gracefully- curved ammlated horns, perfectly black,
wards, are also white,

as fine as

and generally from nine to twelve inches long in the

bend the eye is the well-known perfection the full,
;

large, soft,

and jet-black eye of the

Although

gazelle.

the desert appears incapable of supporting animal

there are in the undulating surface

sandy ravines, in which are

tufts

of a herbage so

coarse that, as a source of nourishment,

valueless to a domestic animal

life,'

numerous shallow

it

nevertheless,

would be

upon this

dry and wiry substance the delicate gazelles subsist ;

and, although they never fatten, they are exceedingly
fleshy

from

and
fat,

in

excellent

Entirely free

and nevertheless a mass of muscle and

sinew, the gazelle

Proud of

condition.

its

is

the fastest of the antelope tribe.

strength,

and confident in

its agility, it

will generally Abound perpendicularly four or five feet

from the ground several times before

it starts

speed, as though to test the quality of

before the race.

its

at full

sinews

The Arabs course them with grey-

hounds, and sometimes they are caught by running

several dogs at the

same time but

the folly of the gazelle,

who

this result is

from

at first distances his

CHAP,

PREPARATION OF WATER-SKINS.

ii.]

pursuers like the wind

and

halts

49

but, secure in its speed,

it

by boundthe meantime the grey-

faces the dogs, exhausting itself

ing exultingly in the air

in

hounds are closing up, and diminishing the chance

As a

of escape.

of the gazelle,

notwithstanding this absurdity

has the best of the race, and the

rule,

it

greyhounds return crestfallen and beaten. Altogether

it is the most beautiful
specimen of game that exists,
far too lovely
for the

and harmless

mere love of

upon the

rifle,

is

no protection

throughout our desert march

and
at

am

we

sorry to confess that I

stalking

these

wary

hunted and killed

But when dinner depends

sport.

beauty

to be

upon gazelles,
became very expert

The

animals.

little

accordingly,

lived

flesh,

although tolerably good, has a slight flavour of musk

this is not peculiar to the gazelle, as the odour is
common to most of the small varieties of antelopes.
;

Having a good supply of meat,

busily engaged in cutting
it

for

future

festoons

use

of flesh

the

it

all

into strips

bushes were

of gazelles

hands were

and drying

covered with

and hippopotami, and

the skins of the former were prepared for

girbas, or water-sacks.

purpose

is

The

making

flaying process for this

a delicate operation, as the knife must be

so dexterously used that no false cut should injure the

hide.

The animal

incision is then
to the

tail,

is

hung up by the hind

made along

legs

an

the inside of both thighs

and with some trouble the skin

is

drawn

body towards the head, precisely as a stocking

might be drawn from the leg by this operation the
off the

TANNING THE HIDES.

50

[CHAP. n.

skin forms a seamless bag, open at both ends.

form a

must be buried

girba, the skin

about twenty hours

the hair

it

is

easily detached.

is

To

in the earth for

then washed in water, and

Thus rendered

clean, it is

tanned by soaking for several days in a mixture of the

bark of a mimosa and water from this it is daily
;

withdrawn, and stretched out with pegs upon the

ground it is then well scrubbed with a rough stone,

and fresh mimosa bark well bruised, with water, is
;

rubbed in by the friction. About four days are sufficient to tan the thin skin of a gazelle, which is much
valued for

its

toughness and durability

at the hind quarters

of the neck

is

the aperture

sewn together, and the opening

is

closed,

when

required,

by

tying.

good water-skin should be porous, to allow the water

to exude sufficiently to moisten the exterior, thus
the action of the air upon the exposed surface causes
evaporation, and

imparts to the water within the

The Arabs usually prepare

tanned skins with an empyreumatical oil made

skin a delicious coolness.

their

from a variety of substances, the best of which is that

from the sesame grain this has a powerful smell, and:
;

renders the water so disagreeable that few Europeans

could drink

This

it.

oil is black,

and much resembles

has the effect of preserving the

In
leather, and of rendering it perfectly water-tight.

tar in appearance

desert

travelling

it

each person should have his

private water-skin slung

purpose none
that will

upon

his

dromedary

for this

good as a small-sized gazelle

contain about two gallons.
is

so

own
skirt

CHAP,

SHOOT A CROCODILE.

ii.]

On 23d June we were

51

by a

suffocated

nearly

whirlwind that buried everything within the tents

several inches in dust

the heat was intense

the sky was spotless, but the

my

and went down

rifle

as usual

simoom was more

powering than I had yet experienced.

took

over-

I accordingly

to the

pool, as

any

movement, even in the burning sun, was preferable

and

to inaction in that sultry heat

diles

into

dust.

The

croco-

had dragged the skeletons of the hippopotami

the water several huge heads appeared and then
;

vanished from the surface, and the ribs of the carcase

that projected, trembled and jerked as the jaws of the
crocodiles

were at

very large

size

bottom

work

beneath.

one

shot

of

through the head, but it sank to the

expected to find it on the following morn-

when

ing floating upon the surface

have distended the body.
I also shot a large single bull

the gas should

hippopotamus

late in

the evening, which was alone at tie extremity of the

pool; he sank at the forehead shot, and, as he never

was dead, and that

him on the morrow with the crocodile.

rose again, I concluded that he

I should find

Tired with the heat, I trudged

homeward over the hot

and fatiguing sand of the river's bed.

The cool night arrived, and at about half-past
eight I was lying half asleep upon my bed by the
margin of the

river,

when

I fancied that I

heard a

rumbling like distant thunder I had not heard such

a sound for months, but a low uninterrupted roll ap:

peared to increase in volume, although far distant.

E 2

THE RI7ER COMES DOWN.

52

Hardly had
tively

raised

when a

my

head to

few minutes they rushed into

river

We

listen

in the darkness,

the river

"

many

from the

feet,

and in a

camp, shouting to
"
El Bahr El Bahr
(the

my

!)

were up in an instant, and

Mahomet,

more atten-

confusion of voices arose

Arabs' camp, with a sound of

my men

[CHAP. n.

my

interpreter,

in a state of intense confusion, explained

that the river was coming down, and that the sup-

posed distant thunder was the roar of approaching

water.

Many

of the people were asleep on the clean sand

awakened by
the Arabs, who rushed down the steep bank to save
the skulls of my two hippopotami that were exposed
on the

to dry.

river's

bed

these were quickly

Hardly had they descended, when the sound

of the river in the darkness beneath, told us that the

water had arrived, and the men, dripping with wet,

had just sufficient time to drag their heavy burdens

up the bank.
All was darkness and confusion
talking and no

night/'

On

everybody was

one listening, but the great event

had occurred, the

the

river

had arrived "like a

thief in

the morning of the 24th June,

stood on the banks of the noble Atbara river, at the

break of day. The wonder of the desert yesterday

there was a barren sheet of glaring sand, with a fringe
!

of withered bush

and

trees

upon

its

borders, that cut

For days we had

journeyed along the exhausted bed all Nature, even
the yellow

expanse

of

desert.

CHAP.

THE MIGHTY STREAM OF THE ATBARA.

IT.]

was most poor no bush could

no tree could throw a shade
crisp

in Nature's poverty,

boast a leaf

upon the stems of the mimosas, the

with the

upon the burst bark, sprung

dried

sap

crackled

gums

53

withering heat of the simoom.

In one night there

was a mysterious change wonders of the mighty

an army of water was hastening to the wasted
Nile
!

river

was no drop of

there

rain,

on the horizon to give hope,

sultry

and

dust

desolation

fifteen to

of

all

Bamboos and

kinds, were hurried

"Where were

to-day

yesterday,

width and

in

through
with trash

reeds,

along the

muddy

waters.

the crowded inhabitants of the pool

all

feet in depth, flowed

twenty

the dreary desert

had been dry and

some 500 yards

magnificent stream,

from

all

no thunder-cloud

The prison doors were broken, the prisoners were

released, and rejoiced in the mighty stream of the
Atbara.

The

this

Although
work,

1861, was

24th June,

memorable

was actually the beginning of

I felt that,

had obtained a
mystery, and

by
clue

day.

my

the experience of this night I

one

to

of

portion

the

Nile

"

coming events cast their

shadows before them," this sudden creation of a
river was but the shadow of the great cause.

The

rains

One

of

that,

as

were pouring in Abyssinia

sources of the Nile !

although

my
I

Turks, Hadji Achmet, was

ill

these

were

therefore,

was necessary to wait.

journal, 26th June

longed to travel, it

I extract verbatim

from

my

CHANGE IN THE SEASON.

54
"

The

river has

still

risen

[CHAP. n.

the weather

is cooler,

and

the withered trees and bushes are giving signs of burst-

ing into

This season

leaf.

of this country.

The

may

be termed the spring

simoom

of April,

May,
and June, burns everything as though parched by fire,
and not even a withered leaf hangs to a bough, but
frightful

the trees wear a wintry appearance in the midst of

intense heat.

The wild geese have

paired, the birds

are building their nests, and, although not even a drop

of

dew has

fallen, all

Nature seems to be aware of an

approaching change, as the south wind blowing cool

from the wet quarter is the harbinger of rain. Already

some of the mimosas begin to afford a shade, under

which the gazelles

the does are

now

be surely found at mid-day ;

in fawn, and the young will be

may

dropped when this now withered land

with herbage.

shall be green

"

Busy, packing for a start to-morrow; 1 send Hadji

Velli back to Berber in charge of the two hippos'
heads to the care of the good old Halleem Effendi.

No

time for shooting to-day. I took out all the

six tusks
hippo's teeth, of which he possesses 40,

^,

and fourteen molars in each jaw.

The bones

hippopotamus, like those of the elephant, are

and without marrow/'

of the
solid,

CHAPTEE

III.

WILD ASSES OF THE DESERT.

THE journey

along the margin of the Atbara was

similar to the entire route from Berber, a vast desert,

with the narrow band of trees that marked the course

of the river

the only change was the magical growth

which burst hourly from the swollen

buds of the mimosas this could be accounted for by
of the leaves,

the sudden arrival of the river, as the water percolated

rapidly through the sand and nourished the famishing
roots.

The tracks of wild

had been

asses

frequent, but

had not seen the animals, as their drinkinghour was at night, after which they travelled far into
hitherto I

however, on the morning of the 29th

June, shortly after the start at about 6 A.M. we perthe

desert

ceived three of these beautiful creatures on our

an

ass,

a female, and a

a mile distant

when

left

They were about half

observed, and upon our

foal.

first

approach to within half that distance they halted

and faced about ; they were evidently on their return
to the desert

from the

river.

Those who have seen

MY

56

FIRST

AND

LAST.

[CHAP. in.

have no conception of
the beauty of the wild and original animal. Far from
the passive and subdued appearance of the English
donkeys in their

ass,

civilized state

the animal in

activity

its

and courage

native desert
;

there

is

is

the perfection of

a high-bred tone in the

deportment, a high-actioned step when it trots freely

over the rocks and sand, with the speed of a horse

when
is

it

more

gallops over the boundless desert.

difficult of

approach

No

animal

and, although they are

captured by the Arabs, those taken are

invariably the foals, which are ridden down by fast
The colour
dromedaries, while the mothers escape.
frequently

of the wild ass

is

a reddish cream, tinged with the

shade most prevalent of the ground that it inhabits,

thus it much resembles the sand of the desert. I

wished to obtain a specimen, and accordingly I exerted

my utmost knowledge of stalking to obtain a shot at
After at least an hour and a half I suc-

the male.

ceeded in obtaining a long shot with a single rifle,

which passed through the shoulder, and I secured my
first

and

last

that I saw

my

donkey.

It

was with extreme

beautiful prize in the last gasp,

resolved never to

fire

another shot at one of

regret

and

its race.

This fine specimen was in excellent condition, although

the miserable pasturage of the desert is confined to the

wiry herbage already mentioned of this the stomach

was full, chewed into morsels like chopped reeds. The
height of this male ass was about 13 3 or 14 hands;
;

the shoulder was far more sloping than that of the

domestic

ass,

the hoofs were remarkable for their size

APPETITE FOR

CHAP, in.]

RAW MEAT.

57

of a horse
they were wide, firm, and as broad as those
I skinned this animal carefully, and the
of 1 5 hands.

Arabs divided the

Achmet
At

flesh

selected a choice

the close of our

among them, while Hadji

piece for our own dinner.

march that evening, the morsel

wild ass was cooked in the form of

flavour resembled beef, but

On

it

"

rissoles

:"

of

the

was extremely tough.

the following day, 30th June,

we reached Goze-

permanent village on the south bank of

By dead reckoning we had marched 246

rajup, a large

the river.

miles from Berber.

This spot was therefore about 220

miles from the junction of the Atbara with the Nile.

we remained

Here

for

few

days

An

donkeys and to engage fresh camels.

my

to

rest

the

extract from

journal will give a general idea of this miserable

country:
"

July
breakfast,

went out early to get something

and shot a hare and seven pigeons. On
I

3.

for

my

an Arab immediately skinned the

hare, and pulling out the liver, lungs, and kidneys, he
The Arabs invariably eat
ate them raw and bloody.
return to camp,

the lungs, liver, kidneys, and the thorax

gazelles, &c.

of sheep,

while they are engaged in skinning the

which they crack the leg bones between

and suck out the raw marrow."

beasts, after

stones,

Bishareen Arab wears his hair in hundreds of

minute

plaits

mounted by a
about the

size

which hang down to

his shoulders, sur-

bushy topknot upon the crown,

of a large breakfast cup, from the base

circular

of which the plaits descend.

When

in full dress the

THE BISHAREEN ARABS.

'

58

plaits are carefully

[CHAP.

m.

combed out with an ivory skewer

about eighteen inches in length after this operation,

the head appears like a huge black mop surmounted
;

by a

fellow

mop

of a small

size.

this

Through

of hair he carries his skewer, which

is

mass

generally orna-

mented, and which answers the double purpose of

comb and

general scratcher.

The men have remarkably

women

fine

the largest Arab tribe of Nubia.

of

Like

Upper Egypt they pay taxes

these are gathered

by

parties

the opportunity of visiting

but the

The Bishareen

not generally pretty.

are

features,

all

is

the Arabs

the Viceroy

to

of soldiers,

who

take

them during the drought,

at which time they can be certainly found near the

but at any other season it would be as easy

to collect tribute from the gazelles of the desert as
river

from the wandering Bishareens. The appearance of

Turkish soldiers is anything but agreeable to the
Arabs, therefore

my

escort of

Turks was generally

"
" cold
received with the
shoulder
upon our arrival

at

an

Arab

camp,

and no

supplies

coming in the shape of milk, &c.

were

until

coorbatch (hippopotamus whip) of Hadji

the

forth-

long

Achmet had

cracked several times across the shoulders of the village

appeared to me extremely
brutal, but I was given to understand that I was
utterly ignorant of the Arab character, and that he

headman.

knew
was

At

this

found by experience that Hadji Achmet

even where milk was abundant, the Arabs

best.

correct

first

invariably declared that they had not a drop, that the

GOZERAJUP.

CHAP, in.]

goats were dry, or had strayed

59

away and some

;

excuses were offered until the temper

became exhausted, and the coorbatch

of the

paltry

Turk

assisted in the

argument. A magician's rod could not have produced

The
a greater miracle than the hippopotamus whip.
goats were no longer dry, and in a few minutes large

gourds of milk were brought, and liberally paid for,

while I was ridiculed by the Turk, Hadji Achmet, for
so foolishly throwing away money to the "Arab dogs."

Our route was

We

to change.

had

hitherto fol-

lowed the course of the Atbara, but we were now to

leave that river on our right, while

we

should travel

about ninety miles to Cassala, the capital of

S.E.

the Taka country, on the confines of Abyssinia, the

great depot

upon that

frontier for

Egyptian troops,

military stores, &c.

Having procured

fresh camels, Ave started

on 5th

This portion of the desert was rich in agates

July.

and numerous specimens of bloodstone.

Exactly oppo-

the village of Gozerajup are curious natural land-

site

marks,

four pyramidical hills of granite that can be

seen from

many

country.

One

and

miles' distance in this perfectly level

of these hills

is

about 500 feet high,

composed entirely of naked blocks of grey

granite piled one upon the other some of these stand
perpendicularly in single masses from 30 to 50 feet
is

and from a distance might be taken for giants

climbing the hill side. The pinnacle has a peculiar
conical cap, which appears to have been placed there

high,

by

design, but

upon

closer inspection it is

found to be

THE FIRST RAIN.

[CHAP. in.

no stone of such immense

natural, as

size

could have

been placed in such a position.

For the

first

two hours' march from

this

landmark,

the country was covered with scrubby bush

abounding

and guinea-fowl.

in gazelles

saw the secretary

"

Devil's

horse."

Here, for the

known

bird,

A pair

first

time,

to the Arabs as the

of these magnificent birds

were actively employed in their useful avocation in

hunting reptiles, which they chased with wonderful
Great numbers of wild asses passed us during
the march towards evening they were on their way
speed.

from the desert to the Atbara

upon the

river,

Veritable thunder

west.

some miles distant

we now heard

for

time in Africa, and a cloud rose with great

rapidity from the horizon. A cloud was a wonder that
we had not enjoyed for months, but as this increased
the

first

both in
cool

size

density,

we were

wind,

wonder

and

rain

when down

it

led

accompanied by a gust of
to

expect a

still

greater

Hardly had we halted for the night,

came in torrents, accompanied by a

heavy thunder-storm.

On

the following morning,

experienced the disadvantage of rain

the ground was

so slippery that the camels could not march,

were obliged to defer our

we

start until the

and we

sun had dried

the surface.

We
to

an

south

had now arrived

explorer.

of

most interesting point

From Cairo to within a few miles
at the

Gozerajup stretched the

unbroken desert

through which we had toiled from

which had so firmly impressed

its

Korosko,
dreariness

and

upon

LIMITS OF THE DESERT.

CHAP, in.]

the

mind

pected

but

that nothing

we had

desert

61

had been

ex-

learned to be content in a world of

hot sand, rocks, and pebbles

but we had arrived

upon the limit ; the curious landmark of Gozerajup

was an everlasting beacon that marked the frontier
of the Nubian

desert

it

was a giant warder, that

seemed to guard the living south from the dreadful

skeleton of nature on the north
the desert had
;

ceased

was a curious and happy coincidence that our

arrival upon the limits of the desert should have
It

been celebrated by the first shower of rain we no

longer travelled upon sand and stones, but we stood
:

upon a

fertile

the recent

loam, rendered soapy and adhesive by

The country was

shower.

utterly barren

at that season, as the extreme heat of the sun

and

simoon perishes all vegetation so thoroughly that it

becomes as crisp as glass the dried grass breaks
;

in the wind,

and

is

carried

away

in

dust, leaving

the earth so utterly naked and bare that

it

is

ren-

dered a complete desert.

In the rainy season, the whole of this
country,
from the south to Gozerajup, is covered with excellent
pasturage, and, far from resembling a desert,

it

be-

comes a mass of bright green herbage.

The Arabs
and their flocks are driven from the south by the

and by the heavy rains, and Gozerajup offers a

thousands of camels
paradise to both men and beasts
flies

with their young, hundreds of thousands of goats,

sheep, and cattle, are accompanied by the Arabs and

THE HADENDOWA ARABS.

62

who encamp on

their families,

[CHAP, in

the happy pastures

during the season of plenty.

"We had

now

Bishareens, and

the

Hadendowa

tribe,

and,

passed the limits occupied by

we had

entered upon the country of

These are an exceedingly bad

with their neighbours, the

Arabs.

together

Hallonga Arabs, they fought

the Egyptians,

the

until

finally

determinedly against

conquered

during the

reign of the famous

Mehemet

provinces of Nubia

submitted unconditionally, and

Ali

Pasha,

when

the

became a portion of Upper Egypt.

Upon arrival at Soojalup we came upon the prin-

encampment of the Hadendowa during the dry

Within a few miles of this spot the scene
season.
cipal

had changed

instead of the bare earth

vegetation, the country

denuded of

was covered with jungle,

already nearly green, while vast plains of grass, enlivened by beautiful herds of antelopes, proved not

but the presence of

moisture.
Although there was no stream, nor any
appearance of a river's bed, Soojalup was well supplied
with water throughout the hottest season by numerous
only the

wells.

fertility

This spot

G-ozerajup,

and

is

route to Cassala.

passed

of the

is

soil,

about forty miles distant from

the

first

watering-place upon the

As we approached

several large

the wells,

villages surrounded

we

by fenced

gardens of cotton, and tobacco, both of which throve

Every village possessed a series of
exceedingly.
wells,
cattle:

with a simple contrivance for watering their

Adjoining the mouth of each well was a basin

THE WELLS OF SOOJALUP.

CHAP, in.]

formed of

the

of

level

clay,

basins

diameter, and two feet deep.

of

some of the

We

feet.

wells,

halted

and a

and emptied into the clay

the latter were circular,

a rope

pieces of stick, the water

by

raised from the wells

high above the

the animals from

With

drinking.

leathern bag distended

was

sufficiently

ground to prevent
while

it

treading

raised

63

about nine feet in

measured the depth

and found a uniformity of forty

at Soojalup for the night

here

time I saw the beautiful antelope known,

by the Arabs as the Ariel (Gazelle Dama). This
is a species of gazelle, being similar in form and in
for the first

shape of the horns, but as large as a fallow deer

the colour also nearly resembles that of the gazelle,
:

with the

of the

exception

rump,

which

is

milk-,

white.

These animals had no water nearer than the Atbara

they could obtain a stealthy supply from
the cattle basins of the Arabs during the night ;
they were so wild, from being constantly disturbed
river, unless

and hunted by the Arab dogs, that I found it impossible to stalk them upon the evening of our
arrival.
The jungles literally swarmed with guineafowl
to

shot nine in

a few minutes, and returned

camp with dinner for

my

species of guinea-fowl that I

that with the blue

are

blessing

they generally

to

to

whole party. The only

have seen in Africa is

comb and

the traveller,

be

met

These birds

wattles.

with

as

not only

from

the

are

desert

frontier throughout the fertile portions of the South,

ANTELOPES.

64

[CHAP. in.

but they are extremely good eating, and far superior to the domestic guinea-fowl of
In this
Europe.
Soojalup,

spot,

had

have killed

could

wished to expend

shot

my

number,

any

but this most

necessary ammunition required much nursing during

a long exploration.
I had a good supply, four
hundred-weight, of the most useful sizes, No. 6 for
general shooting, and B

No.

of

birds.

10,

On

several

for

and

wells,

for

firing

&c.

B. for geese,

dense

into

the following morning

we

left

Soojalup

the size

route were

new

it

was

varieties

increased our distance from the north.

two from

bag

small

Arab camps
with immense herds of goats, sheep, and
miles on our

exceedingly interesting to observe the

we

of

flocks

Antelopes were very numerous, and

cattle.

as

also a

I shot

camel (G. Dorcas), they were about

of a fine roebuck;
the horns were like

my

those of the gazelle, but the animals were larger and

darker in colour, with a distinguishing mark in a

jet black stripe longitudinally dividing the white of
the

belly

from

the

reddish colour

of

the

flank.

These antelopes were exceedingly wild, and without

the aid of a camel it would have been impossible to
I had exchanged my donkey for
approach them.

Hadji Achmet's dromedary

thus mounted I

could

within ninety or
one hundred yards, by allowing the animal to feed

generally succeed in

upon the various bushes,

it

to

stalking

as

though

for the purpose of leading it

ceived the antelopes, and

by

to

had mounted

graze.

carefully

This de-

ascertaining

CAPABILITIES FOR COTTON CULTIVATION.

CHAP, in.]

the correct

which

owing

failed,

obtained several shots, some

wind,

65

to the unsteadiness of

my

steed,

which had a strong objection to the rifle.

The entire country from Gozerajup to Cassala
dead
large

upon which there

flat,

is

is

not one tree sufficiently

shade a full-sized tent

to

of

there

is

no

real

timber in the country, but the vast level extent of soil

is a series of open plains and low bush of thorny

mimosa

there

is

no drainage upon

this perfect level,

thus during the rainy season, the soakage actually

and forms deep holes throughout the

country, which then becomes an impracticable slough,
Upon this fertile tract of
bearing grass and jungle.
melts the

soil,

might be cultivated to a large extent, and

sent to Berber, vid the Atbara, from Gozerajup, during

land, cotton

the season of flood.

is

for

At the present

to the

restricted

supply required by

manufacture

the

of

their

cloths.

woven by themselves, the weaver

excavated

the

in

time, the growth

ground before

the

These

sitting in a

his

Arabs

rude

are

hole

loom,

shaded by a rough thatch about ten feet square, supThere is a uniformity in dress
ported upon poles.
throughout

all

toga of the
occasion

the Nubian tribes of Arabs, the simple

Eomans

may

this is

worn

in

ways, as
suggest, very similar to the Scotch plaid.
;

many

The quality of cotton produced is the same as that of

Lower Egypt, and the cloths manufactured by the
The toga
Arabs, although coarse, are remarkably soft.
or tope

is

generally ornamented with a few red stripes

at either extremity,

and

is

terminated by a fringe.

4R4B MIGRATIONS.

[CHAP. in.

As we approached within about

twenty-five miles

66

of Cassala, I remarked that the country on our left

was

in

many

hitherto been

flooded

places

encamped

who had

the Arabs,

in this neighbourhood during

the dry season were migrating to other localities in

the neighbourhood of Soojalup and Gozerajup, with

their vast herds of camels

and

As

goats.

rain

had

not fallen in sufficient quantity to account for the

flood, I was informed that it was due to the river
Gash,

or

Mareb, which,

flowing

from

Abyssinia,

passed beneath the walls of Cassala, and then divided

into innumerable ramifications
it was
eventually
;

lost,

and disappeared in the porous

flooded a large

counted for

extent of

the

soil, after

country.
wells

never-failing

having

This cause acof

Soojalup

doubtless a substratum of clay prevented the total

escape of the
forty feet

water, which remained at a depth of

from the

The

surface.

large tract of country

thus annually flooded by the river Gash

extremely

fruitful,

Hadendowa and
season,

who

the

is

resort

of both

the

and

Unfortunately, in these climates, fertility

generally combined with unhealthiness, and

for fevers

in

of the rainy season

No

and other maladies.

the flooded

seized with a sudden

sitated a halt
sit

the

the Hallonga Arabs during the dry

commencement

arrived

is

rendered

cultivate large quantities of dhurra,

other grain.
of soil

and

is

attack,

my

we

wife was

which neces-

no longer
In the evening, several hundreds

upon the march,

upon her camel.

the signal

sooner had

country than

and severe

is

as she could

THE ARAB'S PRAYER.

CHAP, in.]

and encamped around our fire.

was shortly after sunset, and it was interesting
watch the extreme rapidity with which these

of Arabs
It

to

67

arrived,

swarthy sons of the desert pitched their camp a

hundred fires were quickly blazing the women pre;

pared the food, children sat in clusters round the

were wet from paddling through the

puddled ground, from which they were retreating.
No sooner was the bustle of arrangement comas

blaze,

all

than a grey old

pleted,

responding to his

formed in

present,

there

was

every

stepped forward, and,

man

line, three or

of the hundreds

fires,

or

turned to the

east,

in

by the

of a child

by the cry

At once

four deep.

total silence, disturbed only

ling of the
faces

call,

man

crack-

and with

of profound

attitudes

devotion, the wild but fervent followers of

Mahomet

repeated their evening prayer.

The

flickering red light of the fire illumined the

bronze faces of the congregation, and as I stood before

the front line

of devotees, I

respect for their faith,

made

and

took off

my

cap in

at the close of their prayer

salaam to their venerable Faky (priest)

he returned the salutation with the cold dignity of an
I

Arab.

my

In this part the coorbatch of the Turk was

unnecessary, and
I

ordered

Faky

we

shortly obtained supplies of milk.

the dragoman

Mahomet

to

the

that I was a doctor, and that I had the best

medicines at the service of the sick,

In a short time I had

gratis.

whom

inform

many

with advice
applicants, to

served out a quantity of Holloway's

F 2

pills.

THE BARREN WOMEN.

68

[CHAP. in.

These are most useful to an explorer, as possessing

unmistakable purgative properties, they create an
undeniable

him

effect

upon the

of their value.

They

patient,

which

satisfies

are also extremely conve-

be carried by the pound in a tin

box, and served out in infinitesimal doses from one to

nient, as they

may

I
ten at a time, according to the age of the patients.
had a large medicine chest, with all necessary drugs,

but

was

sorely troubled

by the Arab women, many

whom

were barren, who insisted upon my supplying them with some medicine that would remove
of

this stigma,

and render them

deny them

fruitful.

It

was

in vain

gave them usually a small

dose of ipecacuanha, with the comforting word to an
Arab, "Inshallah," "if it please God." At the same
to

time

On

I therefore

explained that the medicine was of

little

value.

the following morning, during the march,

We

had already passed

named Abre, and the country was a

wife had a renewal of fever.

a large village
forest of small

my

trees,

delicious shade.

which, being in

Under a

tree,

leaf,

threw a

upon a comfortable

bed of dry sand, we were obliged to lay her for

several hours, until the paroxysm passed, and she
could remount her dromedary.

extreme

difficulty,

This she did with

and we hurried towards

Cassala,

from which town we were only a few miles distant.

For the last fifty or sixty miles we had seen the
Cassala mountain
horizon.

It

now

at first a blue

speck above the

rose in all the beauty of a

smooth

a.ud bare block of granite, about 3,500 feet above the

CHAP, in.]

DIFFICULTY IN FORDING THE RIFER GASH.

level of the country,

69

with the town of Cassala at the

and the roaring torrent Gash flowing at our feet.

When we reached the end of the day's march it
base,

was between 5 and

The walled town was

P.M.

almost washed by the river, which was at least 500

However, our guides assured us that

was fordable, although dangerous, on account of

yards wide.
it

Camels are most stupid

the strength of the current.

and nervous animals in water

that ridden by my
was
better
wife
than the generality.
I
fortunately
with
sent two Arabs,
poles, ahead of my camel, and
carefully led the way.

we forded

After considerable difficulty,

the river safely; the water was nowhere

.above four feet deep, and, in most places,

did not

it

but the great rapidity of the stream

would have rendered it impossible for the men to
exceed three

without the assistance of poles.

One of our
camels lost its footing, and was carried helplessly
cross

down

the river for

some hundred yards,

until

it

stranded upon a bank.

The sun had sunk when we entered

a walled town, surrounded

Cassala.

It is

by a ditch and flanking

towers, and containing about 8,000 inhabitants, exclusive of troops.

The houses and walls were of

unburnt brick, smeared with clay and cow-dung.

As

we rode through the dusty

Mahomet with my firman to

off

streets,

the

Mudir

I
;

sent

and, not

finding a suitable place inside the town, I returned

outside the walls, where I ordered the tents to be

pitched in a convenient spot

among some wild

fig-

ARRIVE AT CASSALA.

70

Hardly were

trees.

tlie

tents pitched, tlian

by an

returned, accompanied

[CHAP.

officer

Mahomet

and ten

soldiers

Mudir

as a guard, with a polite message from the

who

or governor,

and raised

firman,

claration that he

as

had,

kissed the potent

to his forehead, with the de-

it

was

usual,

"

my servant,

and that

all

required should be immediately attended to."

we were

after,

whom was

called

the

army

m.

upon by
doctor,

that I

Shortly

several Greeks, one of

Signor Georgis,

who,

with, great kindness, offered to supply all our wants.

weak and exhausted, therean undisturbed night's rest was all that was

wife was dreadfully

My
fore

required, with the independence of our

Cassala
in

is

rich in hysenas,

own

tent.

and the night was passed

discordant howling of these disgusting but

the

useful animals

they are the scavengers of the country,

devouring every species of filth, and clearing all carrion

Without the hyaenas and vultures,
from the earth.
the neighbourhood of a Nubian village would be unbearable

it

unburied

all

is

the idle custom of the people to leave

animals that

die.

Thus,

among

the

and herds, the casualties would create

a pestilence were it not for the birds and beasts of

numerous

flocks

prey.

On

the following morning the fever had yielded to

quinine,

and we were enabled

to receive a

round of

visits

the governor and suite, Elias Bey, the doctor

and a

friend, and, lastly,

Malem

Georgis, an elderly

Greek merchant, who, with great

hospitality, insisted

upon our quitting the

sultry tent

and sharing 'his.

CHAP, in.]

own
a

HOSPITALITY OF THE GREEK MERCHANT.

roof.

most

We,

therefore,

comfortable

Turk,

Hadji

Berber

we

to start afresh

of Abyssinia.

house

Achmet,
discharged

from

became
for

returned

liis

some
on

our camels,

guests
days.

his

way

Jl
in

Our
to

and prepared

this point for the Nile tributaries

CHAPTER

IV.

ROUTE FROM CASSALA TO SOUAKIM.

BY

dead reckoning, Cassala is ninety-three miles S.S.E.

We
of Gozerajup, or about 340 miles from Berber.

had ridden about 710 miles from Korosko, 630 miles

of which had been through scorching deserts during
the hottest season.

We

were, therefore, thankful to

exchange the intense heat of the tent for a solid roof,

and to rest for a short time in the picturesque country
of Taka.

The

direct route to Cassala, the capital of Taka,

should be from Suez to Souakim, on the

from thence, in sixteen

Red

Sea,

and

by camel. Thus, were

there a line from Suez to Souakim by steamers, similar
to that already established to Jedda, Cassala would be
days-,

only twenty-two days' journey from Cairo.

sent,

the Arrival of steamers at Souakim

is

uncertain, therefore the trade of the country

At

pre-

entirely
is

para-

by the apathy of the Egyptian Government.

The Abdul Azziz Company run their steamers regu-

lysed

larly

from Suez to Jedda

Souakim

as a port of

and, although they advertise

call,

there

is

no dependence

THE SEROOT
"

And

it

shall

hiss for the fly that

come
is

to

in the

FLY.

Seepage 185.

pass in that day, that the Lord shall

uttermost part of the rivers of Egypt."

ISAIAH

vii.

18.

FACILITIES OF

P. iv.]

THE PORT OF SOUAKIM.

?3

be placed upon the announcement therefore, all

icrchants are afraid not only of delay, but of high
;

arehouse
ily

The

charges at Souakim.

latter port

is

four days' steaming from Suez, and, being the

lost

central depot for all merchandise both to

and

)m Upper Egypt, it would become a point of great

importance were regular means of transport established.

Cotton of excellent quality might be grown to an

dimited amount in the provinces of Upper Egypt,

Souakim

at a trifling cost

quantity

of

tnd could be delivered at

of
is

transport.

large

collected throughout this

arabic

gum

country, which sells in

Cassala at 20 piastres (4& 2d.) the cantar of lOOlbs.

There

are

mimosas

three

varieties,

produced

from

various

gathered in the province of Kordofan, but I subsequently met with large

;

the finest quality

is

Senna

quantities of this species in the Base country.

but the low price hardly

There are several
pays for the cost of collection.
that with extremely narrow and sharpvarieties

grows wild in the

deserts,

grows in sandy situaThe bush seldom

tions where few plants would exist.
exceeds three feet in height, and is generally below
pointed leaves

that standard

is

preferred.

but

it

in a pale green foliage,

to the
is

hungry camel.

is

It

exceedingly thick, and rich

which

is

a strong temptation

Curiously, this purgative plant

the animal's bonne bouche, and

is

considered most

nourishing as fodder.

The exports

of the

Soudan are limited

to

gum

FORTIFICATION OF CASSALA.

74

arable, ivory, hides, senna,

is

the produce of Abyssinia.

rally collected

and

bees'

These

[CHAP.

wax

the latter

articles are

by

gene-

who

travelling native traders,

to the larger merchants resident in Cassala

iv.

sell

and Khar-

toum, the two principal towns of the Soudan.

The

bazaar in Cassala was poor, as the principal articles

were those of low

adapted to the wants of the

price,

who flock to the

make their purchases

as a small

London,

Arabs,

capital

to

of cloths, perfumery for the

women, copper cooking pots, &c.

The fortifications of the town, although
against cannon,

pregnable.

baked

are considered

The walls

are

of

useless

by the Arabs as imsolid mud and sun-

bricks, carefully loop-holed for musketry, while

a deep fosse, by which

it is

surrounded,

is

a safeguard

against a sudden surprise.

These engineering precautions were rendered necessary

by the

ferocity of the Arabs,

who

fought the

Egyptians with great determination for some years

before they were finally subdued.
Although the

weapons of all the Arab tribes are the simple sword

and lance, they defended their country against the
were completely
defeated by a scarcity of water, against which there
The Egyptians turned the
could be no resistance.

regular troops of

Egypt

until they

course of the river Gash, and entirely shut off the

supply from one portion of the country, while they

This was effected by an immense
inundated another.

dam, formed of the stems of the dome palms, as a

double row of piles, while the interior was rendered

CHAP,

CONQUEST OF NUBU.

iv.]

by a

water-tight

75

of matting

lining

up with

filled

sand.

Cassala was built about twenty years before I visited

Taka had been conquered and anThe general annexation of the

nexed to Egypt.
Soudan and the submission of the numerous Arab
the country, after

Viceroy have been the

tribes to the

first

steps neces-

sary to the improvement of the country.

Although

the Egyptians are hard masters, and do not trouble

themselves about the future well-being of the

quered races,
annexation,

it

all

must be remembered that

the tribes were at

con-

prior to the

war among them-

There was neither government nor law thus

At prethe whole country was closed to Europeans.
selves.

no more danger in travelling in Upper

Egypt than in crossing Hyde Park after dark, provided
At the time of
the traveller be just and courteous.
sent, there is

Cassala

in

1861, the Arab tribes were

separately governed

by

their

my

visit

who were

to

own

chiefs

or sheiks,

responsible to the Egyptian authorities for

the taxes due from their people

the entire tribes of

all

since that period,

denominations have been placed

under the authority of that grand old Arab patriarch

Achmet Abou Sinn, to be hereafter mentioned. The
Sheik Moosa, of the

Haddendowa

tribe,

was

in prison

during our stay in that country, for some breach of

discipline in his dealings with the Egyptian Government.

The

iron

hand

marvellous change

of despotism has produced a

among

the Arabs,

who

are

ren-

dered utterly powerless by the system of government

CRUEL TAXATION.

76

[CHAP.

TV.

adopted by the Egyptians; unfortunately, this iron

age has the effect of paralysing

The

principal

annexation,

is

gaining an

all

object of Turks

to increase their

additional

number

industry.

and Egyptians in

power of taxation by
of

Thus,

subjects.

although many advantages have accrued to the Arab

provinces of Nubia through Egyptian rule, there exists

an amount of mistrust between the governed and the

Not only are the camels, cattle, and sheep
governing.
subjected to a tax, but every attempt at cultivation

is

thwarted by the authorities, who impose a fine or

tax upon the superficial area of the cultivated land.

Thus, no one will cultivate more than

necessary, as
acres of

he dreads the

is

absolutely

difficulties that

the broad

waving crops would

entail

upon

his family.

The bond fide tax is a bagatelle to the amounts

squeezed from him by the extortionate soldiery, who
are the agents

employed by the sheik

these

must

have their share of the plunder, in excess of the

amount to be delivered to their employer; he, also,

must have

his plunder before

he parts with the bags

of dollars to the governor of the province.

Thus the

should he
ground down
refuse to pay the necessary "baksheesh" or present
to the tax-collectors, some false charge is trumped
unfortunate

cultivator

is

up against him, and he is thrown into prison. As a

in
green field is an attraction to a flight of locusts
their

desolating

voyage,

so is a luxuriant

farm in

the Soudan a point for the tax-collectors of

Egypt.

Upper

have frequently ridden several days' journey

CHAP,

EXTREME CHEAPNESS OF CORN.

iv.]

through a succession of empty

77
deserted

villages,

by

the inhabitants upon the report of the soldiers' ap-

proach ; the women and children, goats and cattle,

camels and asses, have all been removed into the
wilderness for refuge, while their crops of corn have

been

left

standing for the plunderers,

and thrash the

too idle to reap

who would be

grain.

Notwithstanding the misrule that fetters the steps

of

Nature has bestowed such great

improvement,

capabilities

of production in the fertile soil of this

country, that the yield of a small surface

lurra is fifteen piastres per

for

500

Ibs.

The average

unknown.

is

poverty

more than

requirements of the population, and

sufficient for the

;tual

is

"

price of

rachel," or about 3s. 2 d.

upon the spot where

it is

The

grown.

(Sorghum andropogon) is the grain most comthere are great

Lonly used throughout the Soudan
ieties of this plant, of which the most common are

[hurra

ie

The land

white and the red.

is

not only favoured

Nature by its fertility, but the intense heat of

immer is the laoourer's great assistant. As before

)y

described,

all

vegetation

entirely disappears

glaring sun, or becomes so dry that

fire

thus

the

soil

is

perfectly

it is

swept

clean

and

in
off
fit

the

by
for

immediate cultivation upon the arrival of the rains.

The tool generally used is similar to the Dutch hoe.

With

this simple

implement, the surface

to the depth of about

two

inches,

is

scratched

and the seeds of the

dhurra are dibbled in about three feet apart, in rows

from four to

five

feet

in

width.

Two

seeds

are

CULTIVATION OF CEREALS.

78

[CHAP.

iv.

dropped into each hole. A few days after the first

shower they rise above the ground, and when about
whole population turn out of their
villages at break of day to weed the dhurra fields.
Sown in July, it is harvested in February and March.
six inches high, the

Eight months are thus required for the cultivation

of this cereal in the intense heat of Nubia.
For the

months the growth is extremely rapid,

and the stem attains a height of six or seven feet.

first

three

"When

at

on the rich

perfection

soil

of the

Taka

country, the plant averages a height of ten feet, the

circumference of the stem being about four inches.

The crown

is

sugar cane

the blossom

a feather very similar to that of the

falls,

and the feather becomes

a head of dhurra, weighing about two pounds. Each

I took the
grain is about the size of hemp-seed.
trouble of counting the corns contained in an averagesized head, the result being

4,848.

The process

of

harvesting and thrashing are remarkably simple, as

the heads are simply detached from the straw and

beaten out in

The dried straw

piles.

is.

a substitute

for sticks in forming the walls of the village huts;

these are plastered with clay and cow-dung, which

form the Arab's lath and

The

the women.

among

work

plaister.

province

of

There are no circular hand-mills,

as

millers'

exclusively the

is

Oriental nations

but the

com

is

ground upon

a simple,

flat stone,

of either gneiss or granite, about

two

feet

in length,

by fourteen inches width.

face

of this

is

The

roughed by beating with a sharp-

ARAB BREAD.

IP. iv.]

pointed piece

of harder

stone,

79
sucli

as

or

quartz

and the grain is reduced to flour by

great labour and repeated grinding or rubbing with
The flour is mixed with water
a stone rolling-pin.
hornblende,

and allowed to ferment

is

it

then

made

into thin

pancakes upon an earthenware flat portable hearth.

This species of leavened bread is known to the

Arabs as the

It is

kisra.

not very palatable, but

it

extremely well suited to Arab cookery, as it can be

rolled up like a pancake and dipped in the general

is

meat and gravy very conveniently, in the

absence of spoons and forks.
No man will condedish of

scend to grind the corn, and even the Arab

have

such

of the

conditions of

husband,

woman

an objection to

if possible,

this

labour,

that

one

matrimony enforced upon the

provides the wife with a slave

to prepare the flour.

we had a large stock of biscuits, but

dragoman Mahomet had, in a curious fit

Hitherto

our

women

as

of

them among the camel-drivers,

we were now reduced to the Arab kisras. Although
amiability, dispensed

not as palatable as wheaten bread, the flour of dhurra

is

exceedingly nourishing,

containing,

according to

Professor Johnston's analysis, 11-^ per cent, of gluten,

\\ per cent, more than English wheaten flour.

Thus men and beasts thrive, especially horses, which

or

acquire an excellent condition.

The neighbourhood of Cassala is well adapted

for the
presence of a large town and military station,
as the fertile

soil

produces the necessary supplies^

MILITARY POSITION OF CASSALA.

80

[CHAP.

while the river Gash affords excellent water.

rainy season

down many

this

should

be

filtered,

clear

and wholesome water

Cassala

cellent

is

brings

localities

for
;

preservation

entirely dry,

procured from

is

wild and mountainous,

healthy rainy season

for the

is

The south and

wells in the sandy bed.

of

it

In the

impurities from the torrents of Abyssinia,

but in the heat of summer the river

and

as

iv.

stations

hill

south-east

affording

ex-

during the un-

but such sanitary arrangements

of troops are about as much

heeded by the Egyptian Government as by our own,

and regiments

are left

unwholesome climates

in

to

take their chance, although the means of safety are

at hand.

The Taka country being the extreme

Egypt,

made by

constant raids are

frontier of

the Egyptians

upon their neighbours the hostile Base, through

which country the river Gash or Mareb descends.
I was anxious to procure all the information possible
concerning the

Base, as

it

would be necessary to

traverse the greater portion in exploring the Settite

river,

which

and which

is

is

the principal tributary of the Atbara,

in fact the

main and parent stream,

I heard but one

although bearing a different name,
it was a wild and independent
opinion of the Base,

country, inhabited

by a

ferocious race,

was against every man, and who

enemies of

all

whose hand

in return were the

by whom they were surrounded

Egyptians, Abyssinians, Arabs, and

Mek Nimmur

nevertheless, secure in their mountainous stronghold,

CHAP,

TUE BASE.

iv.]

they defied

all

81

The Base

adversaries.

is

a portion

of Abyssinia, but the origin of the tribe that occupies

this ineradicable hornet's nest is

unknown.

Whether

they are the remnant of the original Ethiopians, who

possessed the country prior to the conquests of the
Abyssinians, or whether they are descended from the
woolly-haired- tribes of the south banks of the Blue
is

Nile,

equally a mystery

are of the

all

we know

is

that they

same type as the inhabitants of Fazogle,

of the upper portion of the Blue Kiver;

they are

exceedingly black, with woolly hair, resembling in

that respect the negro, but without the flat nose or

No

given on either
should the Base meet the Arabs, with whom

prognathous jaw.
side,

war

quarter

is

In spite of the overwhelming

superiority of their adversaries, the Base cannot be
positively subdued ; armed with the lance as their
to the knife.

is

only weapon, but depending upon extreme agility

and the natural difficulties of their mountain passes,
the attack of the Base
are

spies

leopard,

success

ever

and
or

their
always by stealth
prowling about unseen like the

their

defeat

is

onset
are

is

alike

invariably

followed

surprise

by a rapid

retreat to their mountains.

As

nothing to be obtained by the plunder

of the Base but women and children as slaves, the
there

country

is

is

generally avoided, unless visited for the

express purpose of a slave razzia.

Cultivation being

extremely limited, the greater portion of the country

is perfectly wild, and is never visited even by the

PREPARE TO START FROM

82

CASSALA.

[CHAP. iv.

Base themselves unless for the purpose of hunting.

Several beautiful rivers descend from the mountain
ranges, which ultimately flow into the Atbara

unlike the latter river, are never dry

these,

thus, with a

constant supply of water, in a country of forest and

herbage, the Base abounds in elephants, rhinoceros,

hippopotami,

giraffes,

buffaloes,

lions,

and

leopards,

numbers of the antelope tribe.

Cassala, thus situated on the confines of the Taka

great

an important military point in the event

of war between Egypt and Abyssinia, as the Base

country,

is

would be invaluable

as allies to the Egyptians; their

country commands the very heart of Abyssinia, and

their knowledge of the roads would be an incalculable

advantage to an invading force.

On the 14th July I had concluded my arrangethere had been some diffiments for the start ;
procuring camels, but the all-powerful
firman- was a never-failing talisman, and, as the

culty

in

Arabs had declined to

let their

animals for

Governor despatched a number of

soldiers

hire,

the

and seized

the required number, including their owners.

I en-

gaged two wild young Arabs of eighteen and twenty

years of age, named Bacheet and Wat Gamma, the
"

Son of the Moon/'

being interpreted signifies
This in no way suggests lunacy, but the young Arab

latter

had happened to enter this world on the day of the

new moon, which was considered to be a particularly
fortunate and brilliant

the climax of

his

omen

at his birth.

Whether

good fortune had arrived

at the

CHAP,

MAHOMET'S FAMILY

iv.]

moment he
so,

my

entered

service, I

was a cloud over

there

TREE.

83

know

not, but, if

his happiness in his sub-

Mahomet, the dragoman, who rejoiced in

the opportunity of bullying the two inferiors.
Wat

jection to

Gamma

was a

,quiet, steady,

well-conducted lad,

who

bore oppression mildly; but the younger, Bacheet, was

young Arab, who, although an

peculiar way, was almost incapable

a fiery, wild

excellent

boy in his
tamed and domesticated.

of being

Mahomet would have

which

I confess I

at once perceived that

a determined rebel to control,

did not regret.

the lads were engaged

high in this part of the world,

and a half

at one

Wages were not

month and

dollar per

their keep.

Mahomet, who was a great man, suffered from the

same complaint to which great men are (in those
countries) particularly subject

wherever he went, he

was attacked with claimants of relationship he was

overwhelmed with professions of friendship from
;

people

who

family; in

claimed to be connexions of some of his

fact,

if all

the ramifications of his race

were correctly represented by the claimants of relationship, Mahomet's family tree would have shaded
the Nubian desert.

We

all

its feeble

link;

was

have our
point,

as

foibles

the strongest fort has

the chain snaps at

family pride was Mahomet's

his tender point

its

weak

weakest

link.

This

and Mahomet, the great and

the imperious, yielded to the gentle scratching of his

ear if a stranger claimed
lineage.

connexion with his ancient

Of course he had no
G 2

family,

with

the

MAHOMET MEETS

84

RELATIONS.

exception of his wife and two children,

left

The lady

in Cairo.

whom

an admission to the domestic

was

[CHAP.

whom

iv.

he had

he had honoured by

Mahomets

the

circle of

from a broken arm when we started

suffering

from Egypt, as she had cooked the dinner badly, and

"
the gaddah," or large wooden bowl, had been thrown
at her
as

by the naturally indignant husband, precisely

he had thrown the axe at one man and the basin

at another,

while

in

could

that

contretemps

these were

several relations

one borrowed money of him

stole his pipe

the third,

should separate them

little

hardly disturb the dignity

Mahomet met

of so great a man.
at Cassala

our service.;

now

who

another

declared that nothing

that

"by

the blessing of

God"

they had met, determined to accompany him

through all the difficulties of our expedition, provided
that
love,

Mahomet would only permit him to serve for

I gave Mahomet some little
without wages.

advice upon this point, reminding

piastres,
I

that, although

party were only worth a few

the spoons and forks were silver, therefore
the

clothes of

the

him

should hold

him

responsible for the honesty of his

This reflection upon the family gave great

offence, and he assured me that Achmet, our quondam

friend.

acquaintance, was so near a relation that he was

I

"

assisted

Mother's

him

in

brother's

"

the

Eh,

Mahomet?"

well,

Mahomet; mind he

thrash

him

genealogical

cousin's

Yes,

sar,

distinction,

mother's

sister's

it!"

that's

son

"Very

don't steal the spoons, and

"
"
if he doesn't do his work
Yes, sar/*
!

WE

CITAP. IV.]

replied

Mahomet

"

CROSS THE GASH.

lie all

same

like

one brother, he

one good man will do his business quietly, if not,

master lick him."
The new relation not understanding

was

English,

perfectly

satisfied

with the

and from that moment

success of his introduction,

he became one of the party.

One more addition,
and our arrangements were completed
the Governor
:

of Cassala

was determined that we should not

start

without a representative of the Government, in the

he accordingly gave us a
shape of a soldier guide
black man, a corporal in one of the Nubian regi;

ments,

who was

renowned

so

as

a sportsman that

"

he went by the name of

El Baggar
(the cow,)
on account of his having killed several of the oryx
antelope,

known

cow of the
The

as

"

El Baggar et Wahash

"

(the

desert.)

rains

had

fairly

thunder-shower generally

commenced,
fell

as

at about 2

a
P.M.

heavy

On

was passed in transporting

the river Gash to the point from

the 15th, the entire day

our baggage across

which we had started upon our arrival at Cassala

this we accomplished with much
difficulty, with the

hundred men supplied by the

whom we had received much

assistance of about a

Governor,
attention

from

and

We

camped for the

night upon the margin of the river, and marched
on the following morning at daybreak due west
politeness.

towards the Atbara,

The country was a great improvement upon that

we had hitherto passed; the trees were larger, and

STALKING TIIH ARIEL.

86
vast plains of

young

stretched

bush,'

to

[CHAP.

iv.

interspersed with green

grass,

The

the horizon.

soil

was an

exceedingly rich loam, most tenacious when wetted

far as the eye could reach to the north and west
;

of Cassala

was the dead

level

plain,

while to the

south and east arose a broken chain of mountains.

We

had

not

many

proceeded

miles,

when

the

numerous tracks of antelopes upon the soil, moistened

by the shower of yesterday, proved that we had
arrived in a sporting country

a herd of about
stalk these

from

my

wary

party,

fifty

ariels

antelopes I

we saw
To
Dama).

shortly after,
(Gazelle

was obliged

who continued on

to separate

their direct route.

Riding upon my camel, I tried every conceivable

dodge without success. I could not approach them
nearer than about 300 yards.
off

at

once, but

made

They did not

gallop

rush for a few hundred

and then faced about to gaze at the approachAfter having exhausted my patience to
ing camel.
no purpose, I tried another plan
instead of adpaces,

vancing against the wind as before, I made a great

No sooner was I
circuit and gave them the wind.

good cover behind a mimosa bush than I dismounted from my camel, and, leading it until within
in

view of the shy herd, I tied it to a tree, keeping

behind the animal so as to be well concealed. I
through the bushes unobserved, leaving the camel as a gazing point to

succeeded

in

retreating

Running at my best speed

the same point from which I had commenced my

attract their attention.

to

CHAP,

BAGGED THE GAME.

iv.]

circuit,

87

and keeping under cover of

the

bushes, I thus obtained the correct wind,

up from bush

to

scattered

and stalked

bush behind the herd, who were

was quietly
had succeeded

curiously watching the tied camel, that

gazing on a mimosa.

In this

way

150 yards of the beautiful herd,

when a sudden fright seized them, and they rushed

in getting within

an opposite direction of the camel, so as to

pass about 120 yards on my left; as they came by
off in

in full speed, I singled

out a superb animal, and

tried the first barrel of the little Fletcher

heard the crack of the

ball,

rifle.

and almost immediately

afterwards the herd passed on, leaving one lagging

behind at a slow canter; this was my wounded

who

ariel,

glade.

shortly halted,

Having no

and

laid

took

dog, I

down
the

in an open

greatest

pre-

wounded antelope is almost

once disturbed when it has laid

caution in stalking, as a
certain to escape

down.

if

There was a small withered stem of a tree

not thicker than a man's thigh; this grew within

thirty yards of the antelope; my only chance of
approach was to take
object of

cover.

line

direct for this slight

The wind was

crept along the ground.

had succeeded

within a few yards of the tree,

the

antelope,

favourable,

and bounded

but there was no chance for

off
it

and

in arriving

when up jumped
as

though unhurt;
at this distance, and

with a shot through the spine.

Having done the needful with my beautiful prize,
and extracted the interior, I returned for my camel

I rolled it over

DESCENT OF VULTURES.

[CHAP.

that had so well assisted in the stalk.

iv.

Hardly had

animal to the body of the ariel, when I

heard a rushing sound like a strong wind, and down

I led the

came a vulture with

its

from an

immense height

eagerness

to

time that

be

the

wings

first

the

in

had fastened the

of the camel,

many

collapsed,

ariel

falling

prey, in its

direct to its

race.

By

the

across the back

vultures were sitting

upon the

ground at a few yards' distance, while others were'

before I had shot the ariel,
arriving every minute
;

not a vulture had been in sight

retreated from the spot

had quite

my

lost

the instant that I

a flock of ravenous beaks

were tearing at the offal.

In the constant doubling
stalk,

necessary during

The

way.

the

level plain to

the horizon, covered with scattered mimosas offered

no object

as

as the heat

exercise

my
my
we

a guide.

was

intense,

unfortunately

wife's camel.

was exceedingly thirsty,

and I had been taking rapid
I

my water-skin

However unpleasant

pocket compass would give

had been steering due west

turned to

my

left

was slung upon

when

N.W. should bring me

had continued on their

left

across
route.

me
;

the situation,

the direction, as

therefore, as I

my

party, a course

their tracks,

The

position

Cassala mountain agreed with this course

with

had

if

they

of the

therefore,

remounting my dromedary,
slung
behind the saddle, I hastened to rejoin our caravan.
After about half an hour I heard a shot fired not far
the

ariel

in advance, and I shortly joined the party,

who had

CHAP,

CHJNGE OF SCENERY.

iv.]

fired a

gun

me

to give

89

the direction.

long and.

deep pull at the water-skin was the first salutation.

We halted that night near a small pond formed

by the recent heavy rain. Fortunately the sky was

there was abundance of fuel, and pots were
clear
;

shortly

boiling

an excellent stew of

and burnt onions.

The

ariel

venison

latter delicious bulbs are the

Upper Egypt I have lived for days upon

nothing but raw onions and sun-dried rusks. Nothing
is so
but
good a substitute for meat as an onion
blessing of

if

to

raw,

it

should be cut into thin

slices,

and allowed

soak for half an hour in water, which should be

poured

off:

the onion thus loses

its

pungency, and

becomes mild and agreeable

with the accompaniment of a little oil and vinegar it forms an excellent
;

salad.

The following day's march led us through the

same dead level of grassy plains and mimosas, enlivened with numerous herds of ariels and large
black-striped gazelle

(Dorcas), one of which I suc-

ceeded in shooting for

my

people.

After nine hours'

journey we arrived at the valley of the Atbara, in

all sixteen hours' actual
marching from Cassala.
There was an extraordinary change in the appearance of the river between Gozerajup and this
There was no longer the vast sandy desert
.spot.
with the river flowing through its sterile course on
.a level with the surface of the
country, but after
traversing
.miles

an

apparently perfect

of rich alluvial

soil,

flat

of

forty-five

we had suddenly

arrived

THE SOURCE OF THE DELTA.

[CHAP.

iv.

upon the edge of a deep valley, between five and six

miles wide, at the bottom of which, about 200 feet
below the general

level

On

river Atbara.

of the country, flowed the

the opposite side

of the valley,

the same vast table lands continued to the western

horizon.

We

commenced the descent towards the

river

the valley was a succession of gullies and ravines,

of landslips

and watercourses

the entire hollow of

miles in width, had evidently been the

How many

river.

ages

had the

work of the

rains

and the

stream been at work to scoop out from the flat

Here was
table land this deep and broad valley ?
the giant labourer that had shovelled the rich loam

upon the
flats of

delta of

fertile

soil

Lower Egypt

Upon

these vast

there can be no drainage except

The deep valley is therefore the

through soakage.
receptacle not only for the water that oozes from
but subterranean channels bursting as landsprings from all parts of the walls of the valley,

its sides,

wash down the more

continually waste

soluble portions of earth,

away the

daily during the rainy season

soil.
;

and

Landslips occur

streams of rich

mud

pour down the valley's slopes, and as the river flows

beneath in a swollen torrent, the friable banks topple

down

the

into

stream and dissolve.

The Atbara

becomes the thickness of pea-soup, as its muddy

waters steadily perform the duty they have fulfilled
from age to

upon our

age.

arrival

Thus was the great river at work

on its bank at the bottom of the

CHAP,

THE PARENT OF EGYPT.

iv.]

valley.
river)

The Arab name, "Bahr el Aswat" (black

it was the black mother
was well bestowed
;

of Egypt,

still

carrying to her offspring the nourish-

ment that had

At

be,

was

first

this point

menced
and

91

life

the

my

formed the Delta.

of interest,

the journey had com-

the deserts were passed,

all

was

fertility

wherever the sources of the Nile might

Atbara
first

ivas

the

parent of Egypt

impression, to be proved hereafter.

This

CHAPTER

V.

THE STORM.

VIOLENT thunderstorm,

with

of rain,

deluge

broke upon our camp upon the banks of the Atbara,

"We
fortunately just after the tents were pitched.
thus had an

example of the extraordinary

of the heavy rain

away the

tearing

of the

soil

were swollen to

Trifling watercourses

valley.

rents

in

effects

banks of earth became loosened and

and the rush of

fell

torin,

mud and

water upon all sides

swept forward into the river with a rapidity which
of

destruction

the

threatened

the

such a tempest endure for a few days.

of

hours

than in

was

all
its

over.

passage

through

deeper.

proportionately

The

river

the

could

country,

In a couple
was narrower

desert,

but

The name of the

was

village

on the opposite bank was Goorashee, with which a

means of communication had been established by
a ferry-boat belonging to our friend and late host,

Malem

Georgis,

He had much

the

Greek

merchant

of

Cassala.

trouble in obtaining permission from

the authorities to introduce this novelty, which was

JS

OF
CALIF'
CHAP,

COTTON FARM OF MALEM GEORGIS.

v.]

93

looked upon as an innovation, as such a convenience

had never before

prietor

The

existed.

had likewise

established

enterprising

pro-

farm at

cotton

which

appeared to succeed admirably,

and was an undeniable example of what could be
Goorashee,

produced in this fertile country were the spirit of

Notwithstanding the adimprovement awakened.
vantage of the ferry-boat, many of the Arabs preferred

to

swim

camels

their

across

paying a trifle to- the ferryman.

cannot or will not swim unless it

the

river

to

camel either

is

supported by
thus the passage of the broad river
Atbara (at this spot about 300 yards wide) is an
Two water-skins are inaffair of great difficulty.
inflated skins

and attached to the camel by a band passed

a girth beneath the belly.
Thus arranged, a

flated,

like

man

sits

upon

its

the side as guides.

at a rapid rate

at

least half

gain the
arrival,

two swim by
The current of the Atbara runs

back, while one or

thus the camel

a mile

generally carried

the river before

it

can

few days before our

had been snatched from the back of

opposite

man

down

is

bank.

camel while crossing, and was carried off by a

Another man had been taken during the
crocodile.

his

last

week while swimming the

river

upon a

log.

It

was supposed that these accidents were due to the

same crocodile, who was accustomed to bask upon a
mud bank at the foot of the cotton plantation. On
the day following our arrival at the Atbara,
that

our

camel-drivers

we found

had absconded during the

FEROCIOUS CROCODILES.

94

night with their camels;

had

been

forced

There was no

Cassala.
for

some days, therefore

the
I

river

the

by

possibility
I

endeavour to

to

men who

these were the

serve

to

[CHAP. v.

sent

Governor
of

proceeding

El Baggar across

engage

while

camels,

devoted myself to a search for the crocodile.

shortly discovered that

it

to charge one particular

of

was unfair

in the extreme

animal with the death of

the two Arabs, as several large crocodiles were lying

upon the

mud

lying asleep high and dry

was blowing
ing,

A smaller

in various places.

one was

upon the bank; the wind

strong, so that,

by

carefully approach-

a good shot within thirty yards, and

I secured

on the spot by a bullet through the head,

placed about an inch above the eyes.
After some time, the large crocodiles who had
killed it

taken to the water at the report of the gun, again

appeared, and crawled slowly out of the muddy river
to their basking-places

usually sleeps with

its

upon the bank. A

mouth wide open, I

crocodile
therefore

waited until the immense jaws of the nearest were

well

showing a grand row of glittering

crept carefully towards it through the

expanded,

when

teeth,

Gamma

followed in great eagerness.

In a short time I

arrived within about forty yards of the beast, as

upon

flat

mud bank

torrents that

had

it

lay

formed by one of the numerous

carried

storm of yesterday.

Wat

Bacheet and

garden of thickly-planted cotton.

down

the

soil

during the

,The cover ceased, and

it

was

impossible to approach nearer without alarming the

CHAP,

SHOOT A MONSTER.

v.]

crocodile

was a

it

apparently nine-

fine specimen,

teen or twenty feet in length, and I took a steady

shot with the

little

Fletcher

rifle

at the temple, ex-

head with

actly in front of the point of union of the

The jaws clashed

the spine.

together,

and a con-

vulsive start followed

me

to

shot

by a twitching of the tail led

suppose that sudden death had succeeded the

but,

sessed

knowing the peculiar tenacity of

by the

pos-

I fired another shot at the

crocodile,

shoulder, as the

life

huge body lay

so close to the river's

edge that the slightest struggle would cause it to

To my surprise, this shot, far from prodisappear.

ducing a

quietus,

rise

gave

ordinary convulsive struggles.

to

series

of extra-

One moment

upon its back, lashed out right and left with

and ended by toppling over into the river.
This was too
followed

by

much

his

it

its tail,

for the excitable Bacheet,

Wat Gamma,

friend,

rolled

with

who,

more

courage than discretion, rushed into the river, and

endeavoured

to

catch

the

by the tail.
them back, these two Arab

Before I had time to call

crocodile

water-dogs were up to their necks in the river,

screaming out -directions to each other while they
were feeling for the body of the monster with their
feet.

shore,

of the

yards

At length I succeeded in calling them to

and we almost immediately saw the body
appear belly upwards, about fifty
the stream
the forepaws were above

crocodile

down

the water, but, after rolling round several times,

it

once more disappeared, rapidly carried away by the

THE PUBLIC ENEMY.

96

This

torrent.

muddy

was

Arabs,

for

enough

quite

who had been watching

[CHAP.

v.

the

the event from the

opposite bank of the river, and the

report quickly
that
two
crocodiles
were
spread
killed, one of which

they declared to be the public enemy that had

taken the men at the ferry, but upon what evidence
cannot understand.

forward to a dinner of crocodile

to

search for

for

ourselves.

the

first

a shot

my

Although

Arabs looked

flesh, I

was obliged

something of rather milder flavour

I waited for about an hour while

crocodile

was being divided, when

gun and succeeded

in

killing

three

took
geese

antelope no larger than a hare,

species
known by the Arabs as the Dik-dik (Nanotragus

and a

of

This

Hemprichianiis).

little

creature inhabits thick

England, I have seen

a good specimen in the Zoological Gardens of the

my

Since

bush.

return to

Kegent's Park.

Upon my

musk from

redolent of

and

the

arrival at the tents, I found the

people

were

the

flesh

of the
for

quarrelling

camp

crocodile,

musk

the

which they had extracted, and which are

much prized by the Arab women, who wear them
glands,

strung like beads upon a necklace.

crocodile possesses four of such

in

size

according to

the age

glands
of

they

the reptile,

vary
but they are generally about as large as a hazel
nut,

when

groin,

dried.

and two

the forelegs.

Two

glands are situated in the

in the throat, a little in advance of

I

have noticed two species of croco-

FIRST RUSH OF THE GIRAFFES.

Seepage

190.

CHAP,

RESISTANCE OF A CROCODILE'S SCALES.

v.]

diles

throughout

White

the

all

the rivers of Abyssinia, and in

One

Nile.

97

of these

is

brown

of a dark

and much shorter and thicker in proportion

than the other, which grows to an immense length,
colour,

and

generally of a pale greenish yellow.

is

Through-

out the Atbara, crocodiles are extremely mischievous

and bold

this

can be accounted for by the constant

presence of Arabs and their flocks, which the croco-

have ceased to

diles

fear,

exact a heavy

as they

tribute in their frequent passages of the river.

Arabs

assert

species is

that

the

dark-colaured

more to be dreaded than the

The common
will stop

is

thick-bodied

other.

belief that the scales

a bullet

The

very erroneous.

of a crocodile
If a

rifle

is

loaded with the moderate charge of two and a half

drachms, it will throw an ounce ball through the
scales of the hardest portion of the

back

but were

the scales struck obliquely, the bullet might possibly

glance from the surface, as in like

ricochet from the
is

so

difficult

manner

of water.

surface

it

The

would

crocodile

to kill outright, that people are apt

to imagine that the scales have resisted their bullets.

The on]y

shots that will produce instant

death are

those that strike the brain or the spine

through the
neck.
shot through the shoulder is fatal, but

as

the

appear:

-r

float.

body immediately.,
iWpoitr^^Tsurf^e

sinls^

ju&atil

by, u

The body of a

crocodile

ir

an$y/<J0$s

DISCOVER GOLD.

98
to

eighteen

hours before

while that

of

it

[CHAP. v.

will

to

rise

the

sur-

the

hippopotamus will never

remain longer than two hours beneath the water, and
will generally rise in an hour and a half after
face,

death.

This difference in time depends upon the

depth and temperature in deep holes of the river of

from thirty to fifty feet, the water is much cooler
;

near the bottom, thus the gas is not generated in

the body so quickly as in shallow and warmer water.

The

crocodile

stomach

is

not a

grass-feeder,

therefore

the

comparatively small, and the contents do

is

not generate the amount of gas, that so quickly distends the huge stomach of the hippopotamus ; thus
the body of the former requires a longer period before
it

will rise to the surface.

In the evening we crossed with our baggage and

people to the opposite side of the river, and pitched
small
our tents at the village of Goorashee.

down

watercourse had brought

a large

quantity of

Thinking it probable that gold might

exist in the same locality, I washed some earth in a

black sand.

copper basin, and quickly discovered a few specks of

Gold is found in small quantities
the precious metal.
in the sand of the Atbara

Nile there

mines of

Government.

Egyptian
perience

are

have no

at Fazogle

this

on the Blue

metal worked by the

From my

doubt that

subsequent

valuable

minerals

exist in large quantities throughout the lofty

of Abyssinian

mountains from

derive their sources.

ex-

which these

chain
rivers

CHAP.

BEAFr ACTION OF THE CAMEL.

v.J

and once more we were ready

Our factotum, El Baggar, had collected

The camels
to start.

99

number

arrived,

and riding dromehe had brought for

of both baggage-camels

"hygeens;" the latter

approval, as we had suffered much from the extreme
There is the same
roughness of our late camels.
daries or

between a good hygeen or dromedary and

a baggage-camel as between the thoroughbred and
and it appears absurd in the eyes
the cart-horse
difference

of the Arabs that a

any position should ride

Apart from all ideas of etiquette,

a baggage- camel.
the motion

of

of the latter

Of

warning.

man

all

animal

is

rider

with

cut

sharp

creature

lose

the

break into

to

sufficient

species of fatigue, the back-breaking

monotonous swing of a heavy camel

should the

quite

is

the worst

patience,

and

coorbatch

that

trot,

the

and,

administer
induces

torture

the

of the

a pleasant tickling compared to the sensation

of having your spine driven by a sledge-hammer

rack

is

from below, half a foot deeper into the skull. The

human frame may be inured to almost anything;
thus the Arabs,

who have always been accustomed

to this kind of exercise, hardly feel the motion,

the

portion

of

the body most

riding a rough c&mel

subject

upon two bare

to pain

pieces of

and
in

wood

service,

becomes naturally adapted for such rough

as monkeys become hardened from constantly

sitting

upon rough

for a saddle,

mence almost
accompany

substances.

The

children com-

as soon as they are born, as they

must

their mothers in their annual migrations

EL SAGGAR SELECTS A HYGEEN.

100

and no sooner can the young Arab

on, than he

which he

while he

clings,

protection to the
thus,

and hold

bumps upon

the bare back of

Nature quickly arranges a horny

of the

by the thickening

nerves,

an Arab's opinion of the action of a

never be accepted without a

riding hygeen should

What

trial.

personal

astride

placed behind his fathers saddle, to

is

the jolting camel.

skin

sit

[CHAP. v.

appears

delightful

him

to

be torture to you, as a strong breeze and a

rough sea may be charming to a sailor but worse

may

than death to a landsman.

I

was determined not

to

now

accept the camels

hygeens until I had seen them tried;

I accordingly ordered our black soldier El Baggar
to saddle the most easy-actioned animal for my
as

offered

but

wife,

wished to see him put

variety of paces before she

should

it

through a

accept

The

it.

who from

long practice was as

hard as the heel of a boot, disdained a saddle the

delighted El Baggar,

animal knelt, was mounted, and

full

trot,

performing a

action,

and

fit

he started at

about

of

circle

diameter as though in a circus.

" Warranted

an exhibition

off

fifty

never saw such

quiet to ride,

for a lady I"

yards

of easy

This had been the cha-

rampant brute, who now,

erect, went tearing round the

racter received with the

with head and

i

circle,

tail

screaming

and

roaring

like

a wild

beast,

throwing his forelegs forward, and stepping at least

Where was El Baggar ?
three feet high in his trot.
A.: disjointed-looking black figure was sometimes on

CHAP,

THE EASY-GOER, SUITABLE FOR A LADY!

v.]

101

the back of this easy-going camel, sometimes a foot

high in the air arms, head, legs, hands appeared

like a confused mass of dislocations ; the woolly hair
of this unearthly individual, that had been carefully
;

trained in long
to the tobacco

narrow

stiff

known

as

"negro-head," alternately
as though under the in-

started upright en masse,

and then

fluence of electricity,
his shoulders
"

he or

dose

precisely similar

curls,

as suddenly

fell

had the dark individual been a

it

"

upon
black

could not have been more thoroughly

This object so thoroughly disguised by rapidity of movement was El Baggar happy, delighted
El Baggar
As he came rapidly round towards us

shaken.

flourishing his coorbatch,

him, "Is that

I called to

a nice hygeen for the Sit (lady), El Baggar?

is

it

He was

almost incapable of a reply.

"V-e-r-y e-e-a-a-s-y," replied the trustworthy autho-

very easy

ity,

?"'

the

"j-j-j-just

"All

right,

that

the

thin-n-n-g for
will

do,"

jockey pulled up his steed.

S-i-i-i-t-t-t."

answered,

and the

"Are the other camels

better or worse than that ?" I asked.

"

Much

worse,"

replied El Baggar, "the others are rather rough, but

this is an easy goer, and will suit the lady well."

was impossible

hygeen ; an
Arab prizes his riding animal too much, and invariably refuses to let it to a stranger, but generally
It

to

hire

good

imposes upon him by substituting some lightly-built

I accordcamel, that he thinks will pass muster.
ingly chose for

among

my

wife a steady-going animal from

the baggage-camels,

trusting

to

be able to

HOOKED THORNS OF THE MIMOSA.

102

obtain a hygeen from the

great Sheik

who was encamped upon

the

to take along the valley of the

to leave Goorashee

[CHAP. v.

Abou

Sinn,

we were about
Atbara we arranged
road

on the following day.

Upon arriving at the highest point of the valley,

we found ourselves upon the vast table-land that
At this seastretches from the Atbara to the Nile.
son the entire surface had a faint tint of green, as
the

young shoots of

showers of rain
tract of fertile

so

had replied to the late

perfect a level was this great
grass

country, that within a

valley of the Atbara there

mile

was neither furrow nor

water-course, but the escape of the rainfall

As

simple soakage.

mimosas,

all

The thorns

of the

usual, the land

of which were

now

was by

was dotted with

bursting into

of the different varieties of these

leaf.

trees

an extraordinary freak of Nature, as she appears

to have exhausted all her art in producing an appaThe mimosas
rently useless arrangement of defence.
are

that are most

common

in the

Soudan provinces

mere bushes, seldom exceeding sixteen

are

feet in height

towards the top like mushrooms,

but the branches commence within two feet of the
these spread out

they are armed with thorns in the shape

of fish-hooks, which they resemble in sharpness and

ground

strength.
is

thick jungle composed of such bushes

perfectly impenetrable

phants,

rhinoceros,

clothes of a
either they

and

man become

any animals but elebuffaloes, and should the

to

entangled in such thorns,

must give way,

or he

must remain a

WE CHARGE A

.CHAP, v.]

The mimosa

prisoner.

Arabs as the Kittar,

and

is

KITTAR-BUSH.

that

is

103

known among

one of the worst

is

the

species,

which caught Absafrom the well-known

probably similar to that

lom by the hair;

this differs

"

Wait-a-bit," of South Africa, as no milder nickname

could be applied than " Dead-stop." Were the clothes

of strong material,

it

would be

perfectly impossible

to break through a kittar-bush.

magnificent specimen of a kittar, with a wide-

spreading head in the young glory of green

leaf,

it
tempted my hungry camel during our march
was determined to procure a mouthful, and I was
;

equally determined that

should keep to the straight

path, and avoid the attraction of the green food.
it

After some strong remonstrance upon

perverse beast shook

its

my

ugly head, gave a

part, the
roar,

and

started off in full trot straight at the thorny bush.

had not the

slightest control over the animal,

and

charged the bush with the

intention of rushing either through or beneath it.

mad

in a few seconds

my

disgust

it

perceived

that

the

To

wide-spreading

branches were only just sufficiently high to permit

the back of the camel to pass underneath. There

was no time
the bush

arms, and
half

for further consideration;

head doubled up between my

next moment I was on my back

I held

the

stunned

my

of other

my

by the

upon the ground,

hind,

we charged

my

fall.
rifle,

The camel-saddle lay

that had been slung be-

coffee-pot, the water-skin burst,

impedimenta lay around me

and a host

in all directions

THE SCORPION'S STING.

104

worst of

my

all,

[CHAP. v.

beautiful gold repeater lay at

distance from me, rendered entirely useless.

as nearly

but

ther,

some

was

naked as

I could

my

was gone, with the exception

shirt

some shreds that adhered

course, streaming

be

to

a few rags held toge-

arms.

my

of

of

I was,

much more

with blood, and looked

had been clawed by a leopard, than as

having simply charged a bush. The camel had fallen
down with the shock after I had been swept off
as though I

by the thorny branches.

marks of the scratching.

To

this

day

have the

Unless a riding-camel is perfectly trained,

the most tiresome animal to ride after the

path,

and

it

is

is

first

every bush tempts it from the

a perpetual fight between the rider

green leaves appear

and

it

his beast throughout the journey.

We

shortly halted for the night, as I

unmistakable

signs

had noticed

of an approaching storm.

We

quickly pitched the tents, grubbed up the root and

stem of a decayed mimosa, and lighted a fire, by
the side of which our people sat in a

had the

begun

pi]e

Mahomet's new

relative,

had been bitten by a

to

think

this

to

blaze,

circle.

Hardly

when a cry from

Achmet, informed us that he

scorpion.

Mahomet appeared
until

suddenly
he screamed out likewise, and springing from the
ground, he began to stamp and wring his hands in
great agony

highly

entertaining,

he had himself been bitten,

and we

found that a whole nest of scorpions were in the

in their
rotten wood lately thrown upon the fire
;

CHAP.

SUDDEN DELUGE.

v.J

105

from the heat they stung all whom they met.

There was no time to prepare food the thunder
flight

already roared above us, and in a few minutes the

so

sky, lately

was

clear,

black as ink.

as

already prepared for the

storm,

was

piled within the tent

had been

slack

left

and we were ready

we were

that

in

and the baggage

the

of the tents

ropes

allow for the

to

had

for the rain.

contraction,

was fortunate

It

descended with an

order; a rain

accompaniment of thunder and lightning, of a

volume unknown to the inhabitants of cooler climates

for several hours there

was almost an unin-

most deafening peals, with

lightning so vivid that our tent was completely
lighted up in the darkness of the night, and its
terrupted roar

of the

misery displayed.

Not only was the

through the roof so that

rain

pouring

we were wet through

as

we

crouched upon our angareps (stretchers), but the

legs of our bedstead stood in more than six inches
of water.

Being as wet as

could be, I resolved

to enjoy the scene outside the tent;

it

was curious

in the extreme.

Flash after flash of sharp forked

lightning played

upon the surface of a boundless

lake

there

was not a

foot of land visible, but the

numerous dark bushes projecting from the surface

of the water destroyed

the illusion of depth that

the scene would otherwise

rain

ceased,

several

but

inches

the

deep,

entire

have

country

and when

The

suggested.

was flooded

the more

lightning flashed as the storm rolled

away,

distant
I

saw

A REGIMENT OF SCORPIONS.

106

[CHAP.

v.

the

camels lying like statues built into the lake.

On

the following morning the whole of this great

mass of water had been absorbed by the soil, which

had become so adhesive and slippery that it was
impossible

for

the

move

camels to

we

therefore

waited for some hours, until the intense heat of the

sun had dried the surface

sufficiently to

allow the

animals to proceed.

Upon

volance between the

ment

of scorpions

we found beneath

the tent,

striking

crown and the walls a

the
regi-

the flood had doubtless destroyed

great numbers within

their holes, but these, having

been disturbed by the deluge, had found an asylum

by crawling up the tent walls with great difficulty
:

we

lighted a

fire,

and committed them

all

to the

Mahomet made

a great fuss about his hand,

which was certainly much, swollen, but not worse

flames.

than that of Achmet,

who

did not complain,

al-

though during the night he had been again bitten

on the leg by one of these venomous insects, that

had crawled from the water upon

his clothes.

During our journey that morning parallel with the

valley of the Atbara, I had an excellent opportunity of
watching the

effect of the storm.

We

rode along the

abrupt margin of the table-land, where

it

broke sud-

denly into the deep valley from the sides of this the
water was oozing in all directions, creating little ava;

lanches of earth, which

fell

from too much moisture.

was

as they lost their solidity

This wonderfully rich

rolling gradually towards

Lower Egypt.

soil

From the

CHAP,

VALLEY OF THE ATBABA

v.]

heights above the river

we had

107

a beautiful view of the

stream, which at this distance, reflecting the bright sunlight,

did not appear like the thick liquid

knew

it

mud

that

we

The valley was of the same general

character that we had remarked at Goorashee, but
to be.

more abrupt

a mass of landslips, deep ravines, shaded

the immediate neighbourhood of

by mimosas, while
the

Atbara was

clothed with

the

foliage.

brightest green
In this part, the valley was about three miles

in width,

and two hundred

feet deep.

The commencement of the rainy season was a warning to

all

the Arabs of this country,

who were

ing for their annual migration to the

bank of the

desert on the west

prepar-

sandy and firm

river, at

Gozerajup

that region, so barren and desolate during the hot

season,

would shortly be covered with a

about eighteen inches high.

the rains

fell

with

less

At

violence,

delicate grass

that favoured spot

and

it

formed a

nucleus for the general gathering of the people with

their flocks.

We
when

were travelling south at the very season

I saw
the natives were migrating north.

would be impossible for us to continue

our journey during the wet season, as the camels had
plainly that

it

the greatest difficulty in carrying their loads even now,

at the

commencement

soil; this
toes,

that

their feet sank deep into the

formed adhesive clods upon their spongy

almost

travelled south, the

disabled

more

them.

violent

The

farther

would the

rains be-

come, and a long tropical experience warned

,

we

me

that

THE MIGRATION OF CAMELS.

108

[CHAP. v.

the rainy season was the signal for fevers.

from

camels of the Arabs were being driven

country

we had

All the

the

met many herds travelling

march was through crowds

already

northward, but this day's

of these animals, principally females with their young,

many

thousands of which were on the road.

Some

of

the young foals were so small that they could not

endure the march ; these were slung in nets upon the

backs of camels, while the mother followed behind.

"We revelled in milk, as we had not been able

like

since

it

procure

we

Cassala.

the milk of the camel

drink pure, but

to

left

use for mixing with

curdles

it is

it

Some

think

it

to

persons disis

excellent

does not answer in general

coffee,

with which

extremely rich,

and

is

it

immediately

considered

by the

Arabs to be more nourishing than that of the cow.

To persons

commend

of delicate health I should invariably re-

boiled milk in preference

to plain

and

should the digestion be so extremely weak that liquid

milk disagrees with the stomach, they should allow it
to

become

thick,

similar to curds

and whey

this

should be then beaten together, with the admixture of

and cayenne pepper it then assumes the

The Arabs
thickness of cream, and is very palatable.

little salt

generally prepare

it

in this manner

it

considered to be more wholesome, but in

is

not only

its

thickened

upon a journey. With an

apology to European medical men, I would suggest
that they should try the Arab system whenever they
state it is easier to carry

prescribe a milk diet for a delicate patient.

The

first

CHAP,

'A

v.]

MILK

operation of curdling, which

DIET.
is

109

a severe trial to a

weak

performed in hot climates by the atmosphere, as in temperate climates by the admixture of

rennet, &c. ; thus the most difficult work of the
stomach,

is

stomach

is

spared the

effected

by a

act of its performance.

first

nessed almost marvellous results from a

now

given as
Milk,

it

is

have witmilk diet

advised.

drunk warm

if

and

foreign agency,

climates, will affect

from

the

animal

in hot

persons in the same manner

many

as a powerful dose of senna

and

salts.

Our party

appeared to be proof against such an accident, as they

drank enough to have stocked a moderate-sized dairy.

was most good-naturedly supplied

This

gratis

by

the Arabs.
It

was the season of

in good

humour

rejoicing

every one appeared

the distended udders of thousands

The burning
nine months had scorched the earth, was

of camels were an assurance of plenty.

sun that for

veiled

by passing clouds

for water,

the cattle that had panted

and whose food was withered straw, were

filled

with juicy fodder

sisted

upon the dried and

now

the camels that had subleafless

twigs and branches,

upon the succulent tops of the mimosas.

Throngs of women and children mounted upon camels,
feasted

by the

gaudy saddle hood, ornamented with cowrie-shells, accompanied the march

protected

peculiar

thousands of sheep and goats, driven by Arab boys,

were straggling in all directions
baggage-camels,
;

heavily

blocked

laden

up

with

the

way

the
;

quaint

and

fine

household

goods,

bronzed figures of

THE ARAB EXODUS.

10

Arabs, with sword and shield,

[CHAP. v.

and white topes or

guided their milk-white dromedaries through

the confused throng with the usual placid dignity of
plaids,

their race, simply passing

"
"

by with the usual

greeting,

Peace be with you."

Salaam aleikum,"
It was the Exodus
all were
hurrying towards the
;

promised land
honey," where
only from

the

"

land

men and

the

flowing with

milk and

would be secure not

beasts

of the south, but from that

fevers

deadly enemy to camels and cattle, the fly

terrible insect drove all before it.

this

were right in migrating to the north, it was

a logical conclusion that we were wrong in going to
If all

the south during the rainy season

however,

we now

heard from the Arabs that we were within a couple

of hours' march from the camp of the great Sheik

Achmet Abou
At

duction.
halted,

Sinn, to

and pitched

letter,

and

I sent

letter of intro-

my

and announced

we

among some shady

to Abou Sinn _with

Mahomet

firman.
in

arrangements in the tent,

people,

had a

the tents

was busily engaged

person.

the expiration of about that time

mimosas, while
the

whom

making sundry necessary

when Mahomet

the arrival

of the

great

returned,
sheik

in

He was
and

attended by several of his principal

as he approached through the bright

green mimosas, mounted upon a beautiful snow-white

hygeen, I was exceedingly struck with his venerable

and

dignified appearance.

Upon

forward to meet him, and to

camel

near arrival I went

assist

him from

his

but his animal knelt immediately at his com-

CHAP,

THE DESERT PATRIARCH.

v.]

mand, and
a

lie

dismounted with the ease and agility of

man of twenty.
He was the most

magnificent specimen of an Arab

that I have ever seen.

Although upwards of eighty

years of age, he was as erect as a lance, and did not
appear more than between fifty and sixty he was of
;

about six feet three inches high,

with immensely broad shoulders and chest ; a remark-

Herculean

stature,

ably arched nose

eyes like an eagle, beneath large,

shaggy, but perfectly white eyebrows

a snow-white

beard of great thickness descended below the middle

of his breast.

He wore

a large white turban, and a

white cashmere abbai or long robe, from the throat

As a desert patriarch he was superb,
to the ankles.
the very perfection of
paint, if

we would

all

that the imagination could

personify

Abraham

at the

head of

This grand old Arab with the greatest

politeness insisted upon our immediately accompany-

his people.

ing

him

to his camp,

as he

could not allow us to

remain in his country as strangers. He would hear of

no excuses, but he at once gave orders to Mahomet to

have the baggage repacked and the tents removed,

while we were requested to mount two superb white
hygeens, with saddle-cloths
skins, that

he

of blue

Persian sheephad immediately accoutred when he

Mahomet of our miserable camels. The

tent was struck, and we joined our venerable host with

heard from

a line of wild and splendidly-mounted attendants,

who followed us towards the sheik's encampment.

CHAPTER

VI.

SHEIK ACHMET ABOU SINN.

AMONG

whom we now
some of whom

the retinue of the aged sheik,

accompanied, were ten of his sons,

appeared to be quite as old as their father.
ridden about two miles,

by a crowd
swords and

We

had

when we were suddenly met

mounted men, armed with the usual

of

shields

upon hygeens, and

many were on

drew up in

all

horses,

others

lines parallel

with

These were Abou Sinn's people, who

had assembled to give us the honorary welcome as
our approach.

guests

of their

chief;

this etiquette

of the

Arabs

consists in galloping singly at full speed across the

line of advance, the rider flourishing the

his head,

and

horse upon

its

sword over

same moment reining up his

haunches so as to bring it to a sudden
at the

This having been performed by about a hundred

halt.

riders

upon both horses and hygeens, they

fell

into

behind our party, and, thus escorted, we shortly

In all countries
arrived at the Arab encampment.

line

the

warmth

exhibited

by

of

noise

public
the

welcome

appears /to be

whole neighbourhood had

CHAP,

THE ARAB WELCOME.

vi.]

congregated to meet us
wild

shrill

cry that

drums were

beat,

crowds of

women

raised the

sounded alike for joy or sorrow,

men dashed about with drawn

is

swords and engaged in mimic

of din

113

and in the midst

fight,

and confusion we halted and dismounted. With

manner

peculiar grace of

wife to

dismount,

the old sheik assisted

and led her

to

an

my

open shed

arranged with angareps (stretchers) covered with

Persian carpets and cushions, so as to form a divan.
Sherbet, pipes,

and Mahomet,
interchange

of

and
as

coffee

were shortly handed to

dragoman, translated the customary

compliments

that our unexpected arrival

the blessing of a

the

crescent

life

is

in

new moon,"
the

sheik assured

among them was

the depth

expression no one can understand

perienced

desert,

who

of

we were

us

"like

which

has not ex-

where the

first

greeted with such enthusiasm.

long conversation

us,

faint

After a

led to an excellent

mat

had been vacated by one of his sons, and

shortly afterwards an admirable dinner of several
dishes was sent to us, while with extreme good taste

tent that

we were

undisturbed by visitors until the followOur men had been regaled with a fat
ing morning.
sheep, presented by the sheik, and all slept conleft

tentedly.

At

sunrise

we were

visited

by Abou

Sinn.

It

appeared that, after our conversation of the preceding

evening, he had inquired of Mahomet concerning my
future plans and intentions

he

now came

specially

to implore us not to proceed south at this season of

i

ABO U SINKS' AD71CK

114

[CHAP. vi.

would be perfectly impossible to travel

described the country as a mass of mud, rendered

the year, as
lie

it

animal could move

deep by the rains that no

so

"

that the fly called the

"

seroot

had appeared, and

that no domestic animal except a goat could survive

attack; he

its

declared that to continue our route

would be mere insanity and he concluded by giving

us a most hospitable invitation to join his people on
;

their road to the healthy country at Gozerajup,

become

to

travelling

his guests for three or four

would be

feasible in the

time he promised to

an

escort

of his

elephant hunters,
us.

me

assist

This was an

disliked to

at

until

which

explorations

by

own people who were celebrated

and knew the entire country before
programme,

alluring

thanking him for his kindness,

I

south,

my

in

months

and

retrace

my

explained

steps,

which

but

after

how much
should do

by returning to Gozerajup and that as I had heard

of a German who was living at the village of Sofi, on
;

the Atbara, I should prefer to pass the season of the

rains at that place, where I could gather information,

and be ready on the spot to start for the neighbouring

Base country, when the change of season should
permit.
plan,

After some hesitation, he consented to this

and promised not only

to

mount us on our

journey, but to send with us an escort

by one

of his grandsons.

Sofi

commanded

was about seventy-

eight miles distant.

Abou Sinn had arranged to move northwards on

the following day, we therefore agreed to pass one

CHAP,

vi.]

day

in

ARAB TRIBES OF NUBIA.

camp, and to leave for Sofi the next

The ground upon which the Arab encamp-

his

morning.

ment was

was a tolerably flat

upon the slope of the Atbara

shelf

115

situated

surface, like a

valley,

about

thirty or forty feet below the rich table lands;

surface of this

was

by the constant
denuded of the loam that

perfectly firm, as

had been entirely

formed the upper stratum.

rains

it

had

the

formed a

This

charming place for the encampment of a large party,

as the ground was perfectly clean, a mixture of quartz
pebbles upon

Numerous

a hard white sandstone.

mimosas afforded a shade, beneath which the Arabs

sat in groups, and at the bottom of the valley flowed
the Atbara.

This tribe, which was peculiarly that of

Abou

Sinn,

and from which he had sprung, was the Shookeriyah,

one of the most powerful among the numerous tribes
of

Upper Egypt.

From Korosko
the

Bedouins,

until

we had

to this point

already passed

Hadendowas, Hallongas,

Bishareens,

entered

we had

the

On

Shookeriyahs.

the

west of our present position were the Jalyns, and to

the south, near Sofi, were the Dabainas.
Many of the
tribes

claim a right to the

title

of

Bedouins,

descended from that race.

The customs

Arabs

and the

are

appearance
the hair

both men

nearly similar,
is

as

of all the

distinction

confined to a peculiarity in

in

dressing

matter of great importance among

and women. It would be tedious to describe

this is a

the minutiae of the various coiffures, but the great

I

A HINT TO OCTOGENARIANS.

16

[CHAP. vi.

desire with all tribes, except the Jalyn, is to

vast quantity of hair arranged in their

man

can be made to adhere.

fat as

as

Thus, should a

wish to get himself up as a great dandy, he

would put
his

upon

at least half a

head

coarse locks

of

plaid

left

this

fat

his

somewhat resembled

it

He would

thick

over his

pound of butter or other

would be worked up with

a friend, until

by

a cauliflower.

cotton

shoulder,

then arrange his tope or

cloth, and throw one end

while slung from

shoulder, his circular shield

back

peculiar

and not only smeared, but covered with

fashion,

much

own

have a

would

the

same
his

hang upon

suspended by a strap over the right shoulder

would hang his long two-edged broadsword.
;

Fat

is

the great desideratum of an Arab

as I have described, should be a

rubs his body with

i.e.

his one

oil

his head,

mass of grease

or other ointment

garment or

he

his clothes,

tope, is covered with grease,

and internally he swallows as much as he can procure.

The great Sheik Abou Sinn, who is upwards of
eighty, as upright as a dart, a perfect Hercules, and
whose children and grandchildren are like the sand of
the sea-shore, has always consumed daily throughout
his life

two

rottolis

(pounds) of melted butter.

short time before I left the country, he married a

new young

may

wife about fourteen years of age.

This

be a hint to octogenarians.

The

fat

most esteemed

of the sheep.

which

renders

for dressing the hair is that

This undergoes a curious preparation

it

similar

in

appearance

to

cold

CHAP,

THE ARAB POMADE.

vi.]

117

upon the raw fat being taken from the

animal it is chewed in the mouth by an Arab for
about two hours, being frequently taken out for
cream

examination during that time, until

the

desired

enable a

is

It

in masticating fat

This species of pomade,

perfectly white,

may

sufficient

to

to appear in full dress, several persons

must be employed
time.

To prepare

consistency.

man

has assumed

it

the

same

when properly made,

and exceedingly

be imagined that

at

light

when exposed

and

to a

frothy.

burning

sun, the beauty of the head-dress quickly disappears,

but the
is

oil

then runs

down

the neck and back, which

considered quite correct, especially

when

the tope

becomes thoroughly greased the man is then perfectly

We had seen an amusing example of this
anointed.
when on the march from Berber to Gozerajup. The
;

Turk, Hadji Achmet, had pressed into our service, as

who had

a guide for a few miles, a dandy

just been

arranged as a cauliflower, with at least half-a-pound

of white fat

upon

his head.

As we were

travelling

of four miles an hour in an intense heat,

upwards
during which he was obliged to run, the fat ran
quicker than he did, and at the end of a couple of
hours both the dandy and his pomade were exhausted ;
the poor fellow had to return to his friends with the
total loss of personal appearance

and half a pound of

butter.

Not only
but great
especially

are the Arabs particular in their pomade,

attention

by

the

is

bestowed

women.

upon perfumery,

Various

perfumes are

THE ARAB LADY'S PERFUMERY.

1J8

[CHAP.

vi.

brought from Cairo by the travelling native merchants,

among which,

those most in

demand

are oil of roses,

of sandal-wood, an essence from the blossom of a

oil

species of mimosa,

essence of musk,

and the

oil

of

The women have a peculiar method of

scenting their bodies and clothes by an operation that
is considered to be one of the necessaries of life, and

cloves.

which

is

repeated at regular intervals.

the tent, or hut, as

is

it

may

In the floor of

chance to be, a small hole

excavated sufficiently large to contain a common-

sized

champagne

glo wing embers,

the

woman

is

fire

of charcoal, or of simply

made within

the hole, into which

about to be scented, throws a handful of

various drugs

she then takes off the cloth or tope

which forms her

while

fumes,

bottle

dress,

she

and crouches naked over the

arranges her robe

to

fall

as

mantle from her neck to the ground like a tent.

When this arrangement is concluded she is perfectly
happy, as none of the precious fumes can escape, all
being retained beneath the robe, precisely as if she

wore a

which would be a
x

an incense-burner beneath

crinoline with
far

it,

more simple way of performing

She now begins to perspire freely in

the hot-air bath, and the pores of the skin being thus

the operation.

opened and moist, the

the burning perfumes

By

volatile oil
is

the time that the

process

is

from the smoke of

immediately absorbed.
fire

has expired, the scenting

completed, and both her person and robe

redolent

of

with which

they are so
thoroughly impregnated that I have frequently smelt

are

incense,

THE FATAL MIXTURE.

CHAP. vi.J

women

a party of
distance,

when

the wind has been blowing from their

adapted for those

air,

but

it

is

19

strongly at full a hundred yards'

Of course

direction.

this

who

kind of perfumery

and

live in tents

considered

by the

is

have a

ladies to

peculiar attraction for the other sex, as valerian

As

to ensnare the genus felis.

the

only

in the open

men

is

said

are said to

be allured by this particular combination of sweet

smells,

and

nasal organs,

to fall victims to the delicacy of their

it

will be necessary to give the receipt

made up

for the fatal mixture, to be

according to taste

cense, sandal-wood,

in proportions

Ginger, cloves, cinnamon, frankin-

myrrh, a species of sea-weed that

brought from the Eed Sea, and lastly, what I

mistook for shells, but which I subsequently disis

covered to be the horny disc that closes the aperture

when a shell-fish withdraws itself within its shell ;
these are also brought from the

Eed

which

Sea, in

they abound throughout the shores of Nubia and

In addition to the charm of sweet perAbyssinia.
fumes, the

women who

can afford the luxury, suspend

from their necks a few pieces of the dried glands

of the musk cat, which is a native of the country
such an addition completes the toilette, when the

coiffure

has been carefully arranged.

Hair-dressing

and savage,

civilized

negro

in

all
is

parts

similar

world,

that

by

both

savage

the various arrange-

Arabs are marked by

have never changed for

their woolly heads.

peculiarities,

the

a branch of science

tribes are distinguished

ments of

of

TUE COIFFURE OF THE WOULD.

]20

thousands of years, and

may

[CHAP.

vi.

be yet seen depicted

upon the walls of Egyptian temples in the precise

forms as worn at present, while in modern times the
of art has

perfection

Chancellor.

been in the wig of a Lord

Although

latter

this

example of

the

result of science is not the actual Lair of the wearer,

adds an imposing glow of wisdom to the general

appearance, and may have originated as a necessity

it

where a deficiency of sagacity had

existed,

and where

the absence of years required the fictitious crown of

grey old age.

amount
affair,

of learning without the wig,

he

theless,

is

civilized

generally bestow
;

is

a very different

an imperfect shadow of himself.

among

their hair

and the same

barrister in his wig,

much

nations,

the

men do

women, who

performed by
climes, and in every stage of

is

generally

in all countries

civilization,

upon the perfection of the

greatest pains

not

anxiety upon the fashion of

the labour in this branch of art

the

Never-

and

bestow the
coiffure, the

various arrangements of which might, I should imagine,

In some countries they

be estimated by the million.

are not even contented with the natural colour of the

hair, either if black or blonde,

that turns

Somauli tribe

only noticed this among the

and that of the Nuehr, who are one of

red.

it
;

but they use a pigment

the wildest savages of the White Nile, until I returned

found the custom was becoming

general among the civilized, and that ladies were
to England,

where

adopting the lovely tint of the British fox.

Arab women do not indulge

in fashions

The

strictly con-

THE BAYARD.

THE COOR.

See pa%e 213.

CHAP,

THE ARAB WOMAN'S HEAD-DRESS.

vi.]

sorvative in their
imitate,

manners and customs, they never

but they simply vie with each other in the

superlativeness of their

of the hair

own

style

a most elaborate

is

thus the dressing

affair,

a considerable portion of their time.

Arab woman

possible for an

is

will generally

which occupies
It is quite

to arrange her

she therefore employs an assistant, who,

art,

121

if

own

im-

hair,

clever in the

occupy about three days before

satisfactorily concluded.

First,

combed with a long skewer-like

the hair

pin, then,

it

must be

when

well-

becomes possible to use an exceedingly

coarse wooden comb.
When the hair is reduced to
divided,

it

by the latter process, a vigorous hunt

which occupies about an hour, according

reasonable order
takes place,

amount

to the

the hair

of

game preserved

the sport concluded,

rubbed with a mixture of

is

of roses,

oil

myrrh, and sandal-wood dust mixed with a powder of

cloves and cassia. When well greased and rendered

somewhat

stiff

plaited into at

these plaits

is

On

then smeared with a mixture of sandal-

wood dust and

flour.

by the solids thus introduced, it is

each of
least two hundred fine plaits
water or paste of dhurra
day of the operation, each tiny

either

the last

gum

opened by the long hair-pin or

Scented and
skewer, and the head is ravissante.

plait

is

carefully

manner, with a well-greased tope or

robe, the Arab lady's toilette is complete, her head is
frizzled in this

then a

little

larger than the largest sized English

mop,
and her perfume is something between the aroma of a
perfumer's shop and the monkey-house at the Zoological

"

122

THE DVST BECAME LICE THROUGH ALL WYPT

Gardens. This

considered

is

"

very killing," and

[CH. vi.

have

been quite of that opinion when a crowd of women

have visited my wife in our tent, with the ther-

mometer

95, and they have kindly consented to

It is hardly
to remain as one of the party.
at

me

allow

necessary to add, that the operation of hair-dressing

is

not often performed, but that the

for

effect is

permanent
about a week, during which time the game becomes

so excessively lively, that the creatures require stirring

up with the long

unruly

hair-pin or skewer whenever too

from

this appears to be constantly necessary

employment of the ruling sceptre during

A levee of Arab women in the tent was
conversation.
the vigorous

we dreaded

therefore a disagreeable invasion, as

fugitives

the

fortunately, they appeared to cling to the

followers of

Mahomet

The plague of

in preference to Christians.

brought upon the Egyptians by

Moses has certainly adhered to the country ever since,
if

"

lice

in the

"
is

lice

the proper translation of the

Old Testament

it

is

my own

Hebrew word

opinion that the

upon the population were not

Exod. viii. 16, "The dust became

insects thus inflicted

but

lice,

lice

ticks.

all

Egypt;"
"Smote dust ... it became
through

Now

Exod.

again,

the louse that infects the

few

sand,

it

17,

man and beast."

human Body and hair

lice in

has no connexion whatever with "dust," and

to a

viii.

if

subject

hours' exposure to the dry heat of the burning

would

shrivel

and die

but the tick

is

an

inhabitant of the dust, a dry horny insect without any

apparent moisture in

its

composition

it

lives in

hot

CHAP,

THE ARAB CHARMS.

vi.]

sand and dust, where

123

cannot possibly obtain nourishment, until some wretched animal should lie down

upon the

spot,

it

and become covered with these

horrible

have frequently seen dry desert places so

infested with ticks, that the ground was perfectly
vermin.

with them, and

alive

to

it

would have been impossible

have rested on the earth

in such spots, the passage

Exodus has frequently occurred to me as bearing

reference to these vermin, which are the greatest
in

enemies to

from the

man and

beast.

size of a grain of

they will distend to the

It is well

known

sand in their natural

size

of a

that
state,

nut after

hazel

having preyed for some days upon the blood of an

animal.
The Arabs are invariably infested with lice,
not only in their hair, but upon their bodies and
clothes;

the

arm

even the small charms or

spells

worn upon

in neatly-sewn leathern packets, are full of

these vermin.

Such

spells are generally verses copied

who receives
some small gratuity in exchange; the men wear
several of such talismans upon the arm above the
elbow, but the women wear a large bunch of charms,
from the Koran by the Faky, or

priest,

as a sort of chateleirie, suspended beneath their clothes

round the

Although the tope or robe, loosely

but gracefully arranged around the body, appears to be
the whole of the costume, the women wear beneath
waist.

garment a thin blue cotton cloth tightly bound

round the loins, which descends to a little above the
this

knee

beneath

this,

garment, the raMt

next to the skin,

the latter

is

is

the last

the only clothing of

THE ElBAT OR ARAB

124

KILT.

[CHAP. vi.

and may be either perfectly simple or

adorned with beads and cowrie shells according to the

young

girls,

fancy of the wearer

it is

perfectly effective as a dress,

and admirably adapted to the climate.

The raht is a fringe of fine dark brown or reddish
twine, fastened to a belt, and

On

either side are

two long

worn round the

tassels, that are

waist.

generally

ornamented with beads or cowries, and dangle nearly

to the ankles, while the raMt itself should descend
to a little above the

a Highland

knee,

Nothing can be

kilt.

than

or rather shorter

more

prettier or

simple than this dress, which, although short, is of

such thickly hanging fringe, that it perfectly answers
the purpose for which

Arab

are

girls

marry

intended.

the

Many

of the

remarkably good-looking, with

fine

They generally

age of thirteen or fourteen, but fre-

quently at twelve,

raMt

is

they become mothers.

figures until
at

it

or even earlier.

Until married,

Throughout the Arab

tribes of Upper Egypt, chastity is a necessity, as an
operation is performed at the early age of from three
the

is

their sole garment.

to five years that thoroughly protects all females,

and

which renders them physically proof against incontinency.

There

The

is

affair

but

love-making among the Arabs.

of matrimony usually commences by a
little

present to the father of the

is

followed

girl,

which,

if

accepted,

a similar advance to the girl herself,

by
and the arrangement

is

completed.

All the friends

of both parties are called together for the

wedding

CHAP.

ARAB WEDDINGS.

vi. J

125

and guns are fired off, if possessed.

There
much feasting, and the unfortunate bridegroom

pistols
is

undergoes the ordeal of whipping by the relations

Sometimes

of his bride, in order to test his courage.

this

exceedingly severe, being inflicted

with the coorbatch or whip of hippopotamus hide,

punishment

which

is

cracked vigorously about his ribs and back.

is

happy husband wishes to be considered a

man worth having, he must receive the chastisement

If

the

with an expression of enjoyment; in which case the

crowds of women in admiration again raise their
thrilling

cry.

over, the bride

After the rejoicings of the

is

day are

led in the evening to the residence

of her husband, while a beating of drums and strum-

ming

of guitars (rhababas) are kept

up

for

some hours

during the night, with the usual discordant idea of

singing.

no divorce court among the Arabs. They

are not sufficiently advanced in civilization to accept
a pecuniary fine as the price of a wife's dishonour
There

is

but a stroke of the husband's sword, or a stab with

the knife,

generally the ready

remedy

for infidelity.

Mahometans, the women are never

neither do they adopt the excessive reserve

Although
veiled

is

strictly

assumed by the Turks and Egyptians. The Arab

women are generally idle and one of the conditions
;

of accepting a suitor

is,

that a female slave

provided for the special use of the wife.

woman

is

to be

No Arab

engage herself as a domestic servant ;

thus, so long as their present customs shall remain
will

NO DIFOECE

126

COURT.

[CHAP. vi.

Alunchanged, slaves are creatures of necessity.

though the law of Mahomet limits the number of

wives for each

women do

man

to four at

one time, the Arab

not appear to restrict their husbands to

this allowance,

and the slaves of the establishment

occupy the position of concubines.

The customs of the Arabs in almost every detail
have remained unchanged. Thus, in dress, in their

nomadic
ix.

oil (Eccles.

Let thy
always white, and
thy head lack no ointment"), they retain the

garments be

8,

let

with

habits, food, the anointing

"

and

habits

present

is

which are

but the

exact picture

Old Testament.

historically recorded in the

a resemblance to

that prepared

which was forbidden

those periods

of

The perfumery of the women already

altar,

and the

formalities of the distant past,

described, bears

by Moses

to be used

by the

for

the

people.

"

Take thou also unto thee principal spices, of pure

myrrh 500 shekels, and of sweet cinnamon half so
much, even 250 shekels and of sweet calamus 250
shekels, and of cassia 500 shekels, after the shekel
;

of the sanctuary, and of

shalt

make an

oil

oil

olive a bin;

of holy ointment,

and thou

an ointment

composed after the art of the apothecary it

be an holy anointing oil." Exod. xxx. 23-25.

shall

The manner
hibited

by

of anointing

by the

ancients

is

ex-

the Arabs at the present day, who, as I

have already described, make use of so large a quantity of grease at one application that, when melted,
it

runs

down

over their persons

and

clothes.

In

CHAP,

ANOINTING WITH

vi.]

"It

Ps. cxxxiii. 2,

the

like

is

OIL.

127

ointment

precious

upon the head, that ran down upon the beard, even
Aaron's beard, that went down to the skirts of his
garments."

In

hot climates,

all

or other fat

oil

is

necessary to

the skin as a protection from the sun, where the body

is

naked or very thinly clad. I have frequently

both Arabs and the negro tribes of Africa
great discomfort when for some days the supply

either

seen
suffer

of grease has been exhausted

the skin has become

and peculiarly unsightly,

has been obtained, and the

coarse, rough, almost scaly,

until the

much-loved

fat

general appearance of smoothness has been at once

restored

by an
"

Ps. civ. 1 5,

active smearing.

And

oil

describes the effect that

fying, as

it is

to

make

The expression in
his face

to

shine,"

was then considered beauti-

at the present time.

The Arabs generally adhere

strictly to their ancient

customs, independently of the

comparatively recent

laws established by Mahomet.

Thus, concubinage

not considered a breach of morality

neither

is

is
it

regarded by the legitimate wives with jealousy. They

attach great importance to the laws of Moses, and
to the customs of their forefathers; neither can they

understand the reason for a change of habit in any

respect where necessity has not suggested the reform.

The Arabs
life

is

are creatures of necessity; their

compulsory,

as the

nomadic

existence of their flocks

and herds depends upon the pasturage. Thus, with

the change of seasons they must change their

NOMADIC HABITS OF THE ARABS.

28

according to the presence of fodder for their

localities,
cattle.

[CHAP. vi.

Driven to and

fro

by the

accidents of climate,

the Arab has been compelled to become a wanderer,

and

precisely as the wild beasts of the country are

driven from place to place either by the arrival of the

fly,

the lack of pasturage, or

even so must the flocks of

in a country where

of necessity,

and

total

by the want of water,

the Arab obey the law
the burning

absence of rain for nine months of the

year, convert the green pastures into a

The Arabs and

life.

sandy

desert.

must follow the example

and live as wild and wandering

their herds

of the wild beasts,

sun

In the absence of a fixed home, without a

even a village that is permanent, there can

be no change of custom. There is no stimulus to comcity, or

petition in the style of architecture that

only for a few months

is

to endure

no municipal laws suggest

The Arab

deficiencies that originate improvements.

cannot halt in one spot longer than the pasturage

.will support his flocks
therefore his necessity is food
;

The

object of his life being fodder,

he must wander in search of the ever-changing supply.
His wants must be few, as the constant changes of

for his beasts.

encampment

necessitate

the

transport

of

all

his

thus he reduces to a minimum

household goods
the domestic furniture and utensils.
No desires for
;

strange

and

fresh

objects

excite

provement, or alter his original habits

his impedimenta, not increase them.

few necessary

articles

he

is

mind

his

contented.

to

im-

he must limit

Thus with a

Mats

for his

CHAP,

UNCHANGING CUSTOMS OF THE ARABS.

vi.]

tent,

29

ropes manufactured with the hair of his goatvS

and camels,

for

pots

carrying fat

water-jars

and

earthenware-pots or gourd-shells for containing milk

and sheep-skin bags

These are the requirements of the
Their patterns have never changed, but the

leather water-skins for the desert,

for his clothes.

Arabs.

water-jar of to-day
to the well

is

of the

by the women

The conversation

trifling

carried

of thousands of years ago.

of the Arabs

of the Old Testament.

with every

same form that was

in the exact style

is

The name of God

incident in

is

coupled

and they believe

life,

in the continual action of Divine special interference.

Should a famine

afflict

the country,

in the stern language of the Bible

is

it

"

expressed

The Lord has

"
upon the land ;" or, The Lord
a famine, and it came upon the land."

sent a grievous famine

called

for

Should their

an

affliction

cattle fall

sick,

is

it

by Divine command

considered to be

or should the flocks

prosper and multiply particularly during one season,

the

prosperity

is

attributed

to

interference.

special

Nothing can happen in the usual routine of daily

life without a direct connexion with the hand of
God, according to the Arab's

belief.

This striking similarity to the descriptions of the

Old Testament is exceedingly interesting to a traveller

when

residing

people.

With

changed

tribes

these

curious

the Bible in one hand,

before the eyes, there

of the sacred record

illustration

the present

among

and

is

a thrilling

the past becomes

the veil of three thousand years

original

and these un-

is raised,

THE HAND OF

130

and the living picture

is

GOD.

[CHAP.

vi.

a witness to the exactness

At the same

of the historical description.

time, there

thrown upon many obscure passages in

is
the Old Testament by the experience of the present
a light

customs and figures of speech of the Arabs which

are precisely those that were practised at the periods
I do not attempt to enter upon a theodescribed.
;

logical treatise,

therefore

it

is

unnecessary to allude

specially to these particular points.

The sudden and

desolating arrival of a flight of locusts, the plague, or

any other unforeseen calamity, is attributed to the

anger of God, and is believed to be an infliction of
punishment upon the people thus visited, precisely as
the plagues of Egypt were specially inflicted upon
Pharaoh and the Egyptians.
Should the present history of the country be written
by an Arab scribe, the style of the description would
be purely that of the Old Testament, and the various
calamities or the good fortunes that have in. the course
of nature

both the tribes and individuals,

befallen

would be recounted

as

either

special visitations

of

Divine wrath, or blessings for good deeds performed.

If in a

dream a

particular course of action

the Arab believes that

him.

The Arab

God

is

suggested,

has spoken and directed

scribe or historian

would describe

event as the "voice of the Lord" ("kallam el

Allah"), having spoken unto the person; or, that
the

God appeared to him in a dream and "said" &c.

Thus much allowance would be necessary on the part
of a

European reader

for

the figurative ideas

and

CHAP,

RELIGION OF THE ARABS.

vi.]

of the

expressions

As

people.

131

the Arabs are mi-

theological opinions which they now

hold are the same as those which prevailed in remote
ages, with the simple addition of their belief in

changed,

the

Mahomet

as the Prophet.

There

is

a fascination in the unchangeable features

There are the vast Pyramids

of the Nile regions.

that have defied time

was cradled

in

the river upon which Moses

infancy

the

same

sandy deserts

through which he led his people and the wateringThe wild

places where their flocks were led to drink.
;

and wandering

tribes of

Arabs who thousands of years

ago dug out the wells in the wilderness, are represented by their descendants unchanged, who now

draw water from the deep wells

of their forefathers

with the skins that have never altered their fashion.

The Arabs, gathering with

their

goats and sheep

around the wells to-day, recall the recollection of that

"
Jacob went on his journey,
distant time when

and came into the land of the people of the east.

And he looked, and behold a well in the field and,
lo, there were three flocks of sheep lying by it, for
;

out of that well they watered the flocks ; and a great

And thither were
stone was upon the well's mouth.
all

the flocks gathered

and they

rolled the stone

from

the well's mouth, and watered the sheep, and put the
stone again upon the well's
picture of that scene

daily

life

in the

mouth

would be an

Nubian

deserts,

the mirror of the past.

K 2

in his place."
illustration of

The
Arab

where the present

is

CHAPTER

VII.

THE DEPARTURE.

ON

the morning of the 25th July, 1861,

number

arrived at our tent with a

in their whitest apparel, accompanied

escort

and

to

Dabaina

tribe,

over to

the

Atalan

who was

Sheik Ali,

grandsons,

Wat

Abou Sinn

of his followers,

to

by one of

command

his

our

accompany us to the frontier of the

at which spot we were to be handed
of

care
Said,

the

sheik

of

those

who would conduct

Arabs,

us to

Sofi.

There were two superb hygeens duly equipped for

my wife and myself; they were snow-white, without speck or blemish, and as clean and silk-like as
could

good grooming

beautiful creatures I

accomplish.

One

of

subsequently measured,

these

seven

and a half .inches to the top of the hump

The baggagethis was much above the average.
feet three

camels were

left to

the charge of the servants, and

we were requested to mount immediately, as the

Sheik Abou Sinn was determined to accompany us
for

some distance

was himself

to

as a

mark

march with

of courtesy, although he

his people

on that day in

CHAP,

FIRST-CLASS IIYGEEXS.

vii.]

133

the opposite direction towards Gozerajup.

Escorted by

our grand old host, with a great number of mounted

attendants, we left the hospitable camp, and followed
the margin of the Atbara valley towards the south,
until, at the distance of

about two miles,

Abou Sinn

took leave, and returned with his people.

We now
active

enjoyed the contrast between the light

of

step

first-class

the

of

action

swinging

camels

Travelling was for the

ridden.

and the heavy

we had hitherto

hygeens,

first

time a pleasure

was a delightful movement in the elasticity of

the hygeens, who ambled at about five miles and a
there

an hour,

half

continue for

Having no

they can
without fatigue.

as their natural pace;

nine

hours

ten

or

this

and the

care for the luggage,

coffee-pot

being slung upon the saddle of an attendant,

also carried our carpet,

we were

perfectly independent,

we were

as

halting,

prepared with the usual luxuries upon

the carpet to recline upon beneath a shady

could afford to travel at

the

arrival

the

day's

of

the

journey.

should be arranged
there

the

coffee.

Thus we

rapid rate,

and await

and a cup of good Turkish

tree,

is

first

no

baggage-camels at the end of

In this manner the march
in these wild countries,

where

upon the path beyond

The
inviting shade that suggests a halt.
resting-place

day's journey should

who

be

about

twenty -four miles,

loaded camel seldom exceeds two miles and a half

per hour

at this rate

nearly ten hours would be

consumed upon the road

daily,

during which time

TRAVELLING ARRANGEMENTS.

134

[CHAP. vn.

the traveller would be exposed to the intense heat

of the sun,

and

to the

inseparable from

fatigue

servant mounted upon a

long and slow march.
good hygeen should accompany him with the coffee

apparatus and a cold roast fowl and biscuits

the

ever necessary carpet should form the cover to his

when

saddle, to be ready

required;

he then rides

advance of the caravan.

This simple arrangement insures comfort, and lessens the ennui of the

far in

journey

the baggage-camels are left

in

charge

of

responsible servants, to be brought forward at their

usual pace,
selected

for

until

the

arrive

they shall
halt

by the

at

traveller.

the place

The usual

hour of starting is about 5.30 A.M. The entire day's

journey can be accomplished in something under five
hours upon hygeens, instead of the ten hours' dreary

pace of the caravan

made

thus, the final halt

at about 10.30 A.M. at

would be

which time the

traveller

would be ready for breakfast. The carpet would be

upon a branch of this
spread under a shady tree
his water-skin should be suspended, and the day's
;

he can write up his journal and enjoy

After breakhis pipe while coffee is being prepared.
fast he can take his gun or rifle and explore the

work

over,

neighbourhood, until the baggage-camels shall arrive

in the evening, by which time, if he is a sportsman,

he will have procured something

the entire party.
firewood,

and

caravan,

without

The servants

all will

for the dinner of

will

have collected

be ready for the arrival of the

the

confusion

and bustle of

THE EVENING BIFOUAC.

CHAP. VIL]

general scramble, inseparable from

135

work

tlie

to

be

suddenly performed when camels must be unloaded,

fuel collected, fires lighted, the meals prepared, beds

made, &c.

&c.

chance of

little

at the

all

same moment, with the

Nothing keeps the camel-

to eat.

and attendants in such good humour as a

successful rifle.
While they are on their long and
drivers

slow march, they speculate upon the good luck that

may attend the master's gun, and upon arrival at
the general bivouac in the evening, they are always

on the

alert to skin

and divide the antelopes, pluck

We

the guinea-fowls, &c. &c.

delightful

manner

for several

hundred miles

now

travelled in this

were great numbers of

guinea-fowl throughout the country, which was the
same everlasting flat and rich table-land, extending
;

there

to the

south,

with green mimosas; while upon our

broken valley of the Atbara.

The only drawback

At about

2 P.M. daily

to the journey

we were

and dotted

left

was the

was the

rain.

subjected to a violent

storm, which generally lasted until the evening,

and

although our guides invariably hurried forward on

the march to the neighbourhood of some deserted

whose

had

migrated north, our

baggage and servants upon the road were exposed
huts,

to the storm,

and miserable.

occupants

and arrived

late in the evening,

There could be no doubt that the

season for travelling was past.

south had proved

we were

wet

by

Every day's journey

the increased vegetation that

invading the rainy zone, and that, although

THE JUNCTION OF THE SETTITE EIVEE.

]36

[CHAP. vn.

the northern deserts possessed their horrors of sandy

desolation, they at the

same time afforded that great

advantage to the traveller, a dry climate.

In a few rapid marches we arrived at Tomat, the

commencement

of the

head-quarters

This

"Wat Said.

and the principal

of the Dabainas,
of

sheik

was

that

lovely

tribe,

spot,

Atalan

where

the

country appeared like green velvet, as the delicate

young grass was about two inches above the ground.

The Arab camp was situated upon a series of knolls

about a hundred and fifty feet above the Atbara,

upon the hard ground denuded by the rains, as this

formed a portion of the valley. At this spot, the
valley on the west

bank of the

river

was about two

miles broad, and exhibited the usual features of in-

numerable
like

knolls, ravines,

and

landslips, in succession,

broken terraces from the high level table-land,

sloping

down

irregularly to the water's

edge.

On

was the most important

the land on the east bank

the opposite side of the river

feature of the country

was considerably higher than upon the

west,

and a

long tongue formed a bluff cliff that divided the

Atbara valley from the sister valley of the Settite,
which, corresponding exactly in character and apparent dimensions, joined that of the Atbara from
the S.E., forming an angle like the letter V, in a

sudden bend of the

the

eastern

bank

river.

Through the valley of

flowed the grand river

Settite,

which here formed a junction with the Atbara.

Looking down upon the beautifully wooded banks

SHEIK ATALAN WAT SAID.

CHAP, vu.]

of the two rivers at this interesting point,

bright green

was a

grass,

space of several acres that formed

fine level

Arab head-quarters.

the

This

covered with the usual mat

moments our camels knelt

at

rode

and ascended a steep incline

upon the summit of which

leisurely across a ravine,

of

we

was

surface
tents,

before that of

which we dismounted.

nearly

and in a few

crowd of

the sheik,
inquisitive

Arabs surrounded us upon seeing so large a party

of hygeens, and the firman having been delivered
guide, Sheik Ali,

by our

we were

by Sheik Atalan Wat

visited

in the prime of

almost immediately,

He was

Said.

man

of an intelligent countenance,

life,

and he received us with much

politeness,

immediately

ordering a fat sheep to be brought and slaughtered

for our

acceptance.

The usual welcome upon the arrival of a traveller,

who

well

received

in

an Arab

camp, is the
sacrifice of a fat sheep, that should be slaughtered
at the door of his hut or tent, so that the blood
is

flows to the threshold.

This custom has evidently

some connexion with the ancient

Should an important

expedition

the

of sacrifice.

rites

be undertaken,

entrance

of

the

calf is slaughtered

at

and every individual

steps over the body as the party

starts

upon the

camp,

enterprise.

plans, he

begged us to remain
through the rainy season at Tomat, as it was the

Upon

learning

my

head-quarters of a party of Egyptian irregular troops,

who would

assist

me

in every way.

This was no

ABYSSINIAN FRONTIER.

138
great
I

as

temptation,

most wished

that I

to

was bound
whence

Sinn, from

proper, but

morning.

[CHAP. vn.

they were the people whom

avoid
I therefore explained
;

to
I

Sofi

by the advice of Abou

could easily return

if I

thought
wished to proceed on the following
He promised to act as our guide, and
I

that hygeens should be waiting at the tent-door at

sunrise.

After our interview, I strolled

to the

and shot some guinea-fowl.

river's side

The

down

Settite

the river

is

excellence, as

par

it is

the principal stream of Abyssinia, in which country

it

bears the

name

Above the

of "Taccazzy."

junction,

the Atbara does not exceed two hundred yards in

width.

Both

rivers

have scooped out

deep

broad valleys throughout their course

firmed

supply of

my

first

impression

of

the

and

this fact consoil

having been brought down by the Atbara to the

The country on the opposite or eastern bank
Nile.
of the

Atbara

is

contested

ground

in

reality

it

forms the western frontier of Abyssinia, of which

the Atbara river is the boundary, but since the
annexation of the Nubian provinces to Egypt there
has been no safety for life or property upon the line
of frontier

thus

a large tract of country actually

forming a portion of Abyssinia

is

uninhabited.

Upon my return to the camp, I was informed by

the Sheik Wat Said that a detachment of troops was
stationed at Tom at expressly to protect the Egyptian
frontier from the raids of Mek Nimmur, who was in
the habit of crossing the Atbara and pillaging the Arab

CHAP,

ISMAEL PASHA BURNT ALIVE.

vii.]

139

during the dry season, when the river was

This Mek Nimmur was a son of the
fordable.
villages

celebrated

Mek Nimmur,

the chief of Shendy, a district

upon the west bank of the Nile between Berber and

Khartoum.
When the Egyptian forces, under the

command

of Ismael Pasha, the son of the Viceroy

Mehemet

Ali Pasha, arrived at Shendy, at the time of

the conquest of Nubia, he called the great Sheik

(from Melek, signifying king)

demanded the following

Pasha

tribute for the

1,000

oxen;

1,000

also

and

Nimmur before

him, and

for

army, as

supplies

1,000 young

of

camels,

camel-loads

to these

as slaves

girls

sheep,

each

and straw

each

demands expressed by

It is said that

demands with much

his

goats,

of corn

1,000, with a variety of other

the same figure.

Mek

Mek Nimmur

courtesy,

replied

"Your

arith-

metic exhibits a charming simplicity, as the only

In a short time the
figure appears to be 1,000."
supplies began to arrive
corn, .assembled

at

cattle, goats, sheep,

strings of camels laden with

Shendy in the Egyptian camp;

came in from all sides fodder for
;

the Egyptian cavalry, to the amount of 1,000 camelloads,

was brought

to head-quarters,

and piled in a

huge wall that encircled the tent of the General

In the dead of night, while he slept,
Ismael Pasha.

was heard, and flames burst out

of the dry and combustible fodder the

the crackling of

upon

all sides

Arabs had

fire

fired the

straw in

all directions,

and a roar

of flame in a fatal ring surrounded the Pasha's tent,

which caught the

fire.

There was no escape

In the

KEK NIMMUR

140

Arabs

the

confusion,

fell

[CHAP. VIT.

upon the

massacred a considerable number.

Mek Nimmur
and herds

and

After this success,

succeeded in retiring with his people

which place we
was about twelve miles from Tomat.

to Sofi,

were bound

troops,

this

on the Atbara,

to

The body of Ismael Pasha was found beneath those of

some of his women, all of whom that were within the
inclosure

had perished.

After this calamity the Egyptians recovered Shendy,

and in revenge they collected a number of the inhabitants of all ages and both sexes. These were penned
together like cattle in a zareeba or kraal, and were
surrounded with dhurra-straw, which was fired in a
similar

manner

Thus were

to that

these

which destroyed the Pasha.

unfortunate

creatures

destroyed

en masse, while the remaining portion of the popula-

new

tion fled to the

settlement of their chief at Sofi.

few years preceding my arrival, the

Egyptians had attacked and utterly destroyed the old
town of Sofi. Mek Nimmur had retired across the

Within the

last

Atbara, and had taken refuge in Abyssinia, where he

had been welcomed by the king of that country as

the enemy of the Turks, and had been presented with
a considerable territory at the western base of the high

When I arrived on the Atbara in

1861, the original Mek Nimmur was dead, and his
son, who also was called Mek Nimmur, reigned in his
"
Nimmur " signifies in Arabic " leopard,"
stead.
"
Mek Nimmur " is the " Leopard King."
thus
This man was constantly at war with the Egyptians,

mountain range.

CHAP,

THE ENEMY OF EGYPT.

viz.]

and such Arabs who were friendly

head-quarters

principal

were

141

to

about

His

Egypt.

seventy

miles

from Tomat, at a village named Mai Gubba, from

which country he made successful razzias upon the

Egyptian

territory,

which compelled a vigilant look

out during the dry season.

During the rains there

was no danger, as the river was immensely deep, and
impassable from the total absence of boats.

The uninhabited country exactly opposite Tomat

was said to abound with large game, such as elephants,

giraffes,

&c.

as

there

were no enemies to

disturb them.

At break

of day, 29th July, the grandson of

Sinn, Sheik Ali,

parting

who had been

the same time Atalan

us

Wat

his people, while at

Said arrived with a large

own Arabs and Egyptian

retinue of his
escort

our guide, paid us his

and returned with

visit,

to

Two

Son*.

Abou

splendid

soldiers to

hygeens were

already saddled for us, one of which was specially

intended for

my

wife

this

was the most thorough-

bred looking animal I have ever seen ; both were

milk-white, but there was a delicacy in the latter
that

was unequalled.

although the

ribs

This

was rather

were so well

animal appeared rather

fleshy,

it

covered

was

small,

and

that

the

in the hardest

condition,

and was shaped in the depth of brisket and

width of

loins

like

greyhound

the

legs

were

remarkably fine, and as clean as ivory. The Sheik

Atalan was charmed at our admiration of his muchprized hygeen, and to prove

its

speed and easy action

ARRIVAL AT

142

we were no

sooner

mounted than

about ten miles an hour,

the

my

assuring

down

water-courses,

rough

led the

lie

and

up the

at

hill

sides,

wife that she might sip a cup of coffee

rode, without spilling

although an exaggeration, this

way

the steep slopes, across

on the back of the animal she

a drop

[CHAP. vn.

SOFT.

is

the usual

by which an Arab describes the easy

It was a beautiful sight
a first-rate hygeen.

figure of speech

action of

with

which the

hygeen glided along over the numerous

inequalities

to

watch

the

extraordinary

ease

slightest discomfort to

ground without the

the numerous escort became a long and
the rider
of the

irregular line of stragglers, until at length lost in the

distance, with the exception of three or

who,

four,

well-mounted, were proud of keeping their position.

Emerging from the uneven valley of the Atbara, we

upon the high and level table-land above ;

here the speed increased, and in the exhilaration of
arrived

the pace in the cool morning

air,

with

nature

all

glowing in the fresh green of a Nubian spring,

we

only regretted the shortness of the journey to Sofi,

which we reached before the heat of the day had

"We were met by the sheik of the

and by a German who had been a resident of

commenced.
village,

Sofi

for

some years;

he

Europeans, especially those

was

delighted

who were

his

own

we

should dismount at his house.

to

see

conversant with

language, and he very politely insisted that

camels knelt at the door of a

Accordingly our

little

circular

stone

building about twelve feet in diameter, with a roof

CHAP,

THE RECEPTION.

vii.]

431

thatched according to Arab fashion.

was the model of an Arab

of masonry instead of

This dwelling

hut, but the walls

mud and

sticks,

were

and two small

windows formed an innovation upon the Arab style,

which had much astonished the natives, who are
contented with the light afforded by the doorway.
We were shortly sitting in the only stone building
the

in

country,

among

a crowd

of

Arabs,

who,

according to their annoying custom, had thronged to

the hut upon our arrival, and not only had filled the

room, but were sitting in a mob at the doorway,

while masses of mop-like heads were peering over
the shoulders of the front rank, excluding both light

and

air

frizzled

even the windows were blocked with highly

heads, while all were talking at the same

time.

Coffee having been

handed

to the principal people,

while our tents were being pitched outside the village,

we

at length silenced the

crowd

our

new

acquaintance explained in Arabic the object of our arrival,

;

and our intention of passing the rainy season at Sofi,

and of exploring the various rivers of Abyssinia at
Atalan

the earliest opportunity.

every assistance

when

the time

Wat

Said promised

should arrive

described the country as abounding with large

of

all

kinds, and he agreed

to furnish

me

he

game

with guides

and hunters at the commencement of the hunting

season

in the

mean time he ordered

the sheik of the

Hassan bel Kader, to pay us every

After the departure of Atalan and

village,

attention.

his

people,

POSITION OF SOFL

144

amid the usual

yelling of the

examine

and

Florian,

Sofi,

we

strolled

position the slope of

[CHAP. vn.

women, we had time

to

by the German,
through the village. At this
the valley towards the river was
accompanied

exceedingly gradual upon the west bank, until within

a hundred and

fifty

ground rapidly

fell,

cliff

yards of the Atbara,

and terminated

when

the

an abrupt

in

of white sandstone.

The miserable

little

village

of

modern

com-

Sofi

prised about thirty straw huts, but the situation

was

worthy of a more important settlement. A plateau

of hard sandy soil of about twenty acres was bordered

upon

either side

by two deep ravines that formed a

natural protection, while below the steep

cliff,

within

two hundred paces in front of the village, flowed the

for mounted men there was only one
river Atbara
;

approach, that which

land.

spot

we had taken from

the main-

There could not have been a more inviting

adopted for a resting-place during the

rains.

Although the soi] was thoroughly denuded of loam,

and nothing remained but the original substratum of
sandstone and pebbles, the grass was at this season

about three inches high throughout the entire valley

of the Atbara, the trees were in full leaf, and the
vivid green, contrasting with the snow-white sandstone

produced the effect of an ornamental park.

My tents were pitched upon a level piece of ground,
outside the village, about a hundred paces from the

rocks,

where the grass had been so closely nibbled by

the goats that it formed a natural lawn, and was
river,

THE BAGGAR.

See page 2^9.

FLORIAN THE GERMAN SETTLER.

.CHAP, vii.]

perfection for a

camp

drains were

145

dug around the

tent walls,

and everything was arranged

manency.

I agreed

for a per-

with the sheik for the erection

of a comfortable hut for ourselves, a kitchen adjoining,

and a hut
too

time

for the servants, as the

for a

severe

we

heavy storms were

under canvas

life

sat in our tent,

in

the

mean

and had a quiet chat with

Florian the German.

He was

a sallow, sickly-looking man,

who with

a large bony frame had been reduced from constant

hard work and frequent sickness to little but skin

and sinew

he was a mason,

who had

left

Germany

with the Austrian Mission to Khartoum, but finding

the work too laborious in such a climate, he and' a
friend,

who was

a carpenter, had declared for inde-

pendence, and they had left the Mission.

They were both enterprising fellows, and sportsmen,
therefore they

had purchased

and had commenced

life

as

and ammunition,
at the same
hunters
rifles

time they employed their leisure hours in earning

money by

the

work

of their hands in various ways.

Florian, being a stonemason,

hut of stone

he was a

fair

had of course

built his

blacksmith and carpenter,

and was well provided with tools but his principal

occupation was whipmaking, from the hides of hip;

popotami.

As

coorbatches were required throughout

the country there was an extensive

camel-whips, which were far

native manufacture

demand

superior

to

for his

those

of

these he sold to the Arabs at

about two shillings each.

He had

lately

met with

THE CATTLE

146

FLY.

[CHAP. YIL

a serous accident by the bursting of one of

tlie

wretched guns that formed his sporting battery this

had blown away his thumb from the wrist joint, and
;

had

so shattered his

hand that

it

would most

likely

have suffered amputation had he enjoyed the advanbut with the

tage of European surgical assistance
;

simple aid of his

young black lad, Eicharn,

who

cut

dangling thumb and flesh with his knife, he

had preserved his hand, minus one portion.
off the

Florian had had considerable experience in some

parts of the country that I

me much

gave

was about

to visit,

and he

valuable information that was of great

my

assistance in directing

of the rainy season

first

operations.

The

close

would be about the middle of

September, but travelling would be impossible until

November, as the fly would not quit the country
until the grass should

become dry, therefore the Arabs

would not return with

their camels until that period.

appeared that this peculiar fly, which tortured

domestic animals, invaded the country shortly after

It
all

the

commencement

of the rains,

when

the grass was.

about two feet high ; a few had already been seen, but
Sofi was a favoured spot, that was generally exempt

from
the
grass

which clung more particularly to

and rich table-lands, where the quality of

this plague,
flat

was

totally different to that

pebbly and denuded

The

soil

produced upon the

of the sandstone slopes of

was exceedingly
fine, and would not exceed a height of about two feet,
while that of the table-lands would exceed nine feet,.

the valley.

grass of the slopes

PECULIARITIES OF THE SEASONS.

CIIAI-. vii.]

and become impassable,

until sufficiently dry to be

In November, the entire

cleared

by fire.
would become

14/

burning of which

vast prairie

dried

of

country

straw,

the

would then render travelling and

hunting possible.
Florian had hunted for some distance along the
Settite river with his companions, and had killed
I
hippopotami during the last season.
therefore agreed that he should accompany me until
fifty-three

have

I should

which

sufficiently explored

that river, after

proposed to examine the rivers Salaam and

which great tributaries of the Atbara

nothing definite was known, except that they joined
Angrab, of

that river about fifty miles south of Sofi.

Florian

during

the

described

dry

the

country as very healthy

but extremely dangerous

season,

during the rains, especially in the

when, on the cessation of

month

of October,

sun evaporated the

moisture from the sodden ground and rank vegetation.
I accordingly determined to arrange our winter
rain, the

quarters as comfortably as possible at Sofi, for three

months, during which holiday I should have ample

time for gaining information and completing my

arrangements for the future.

now

of daily occurrence

they had

at about 2 P.M., but they

hour of their arrival to

night, 29th July,

Violent storms were

first

commenced

had gradually altered the

This
between 3 and 4.

we were

visited at about 11 P.M.

with the most tremendous tempest that we had yet

Forexperienced, which lasted until the morning.
L 2

THE NEPT CAMP.

148

[CHAP. vn.

tunately the tent was well secured with four powerful

storm-ropes fastened from the top of the pole, and

pinned about twenty-five

yards from

the

iron bars driven deep into the hard ground

base to
;

but the

night was passed in the discomforts of a deluge that,

driven

by the

hurricane, swept through the tent, which

threatened every minute to desert us in shreds.

On

storm had passed away,

and the small tent had done likewise, having been

the following morning the

blown down and carried many yards from the spot

where it had been pitched. Mahomet, who was the
occupant, had found himself suddenly enveloped in

wet canvas, from which he had emerged, like a frog

in the storm.
There was no time to be lost in com-

my

permanent camp ; I therefore sent for the

sheik of the village, and proceeded to purchase a

pleting

house.

accompanied him through the narrow lanes

and was quickly shown a remarkably neat

house, which I succeeded in purchasing from the
owner for the sum of ten piastres (two shillings).
of Sofi,

This did not seem an extravagant outlay for a neat

dwelling with a sound roof; neither were there any
legal expenses in the form of conveyance, as in that

happy and
veyance

is

practical

land the simple form of con-

the transportation of the house (the roof),

upon the shoulders of about

thirty meE,

and thus

it

conveyed to any spot that the purchaser may consider desirable.

Accordingly, our mansion was at

is

once seized by a crowd of Arabs, and carried

off in

triumph, while the sticks that formed the wall were

CHAP,

vii.]

BECOME A HOUSEHOLDER.

quickly arranged upon the

site I

149

had chosen

for our

camp. In the short space of about three hours I

found myself the proprietor of an eligible freehold
residence, situated upon an eminence in park-like
grounds,

commanding extensive and romantic views

of the beautifully-wooded valley of the Atbara, within

a minute's walk of the neighbouring village of

perfect immunity from

all

Sofi,

poor-rates, tithes, taxes,

and other public burthens, not more than 2,000 miles

from a church, with the advantage of a post-town
at the easy distance of seventy leagues.

The manor

comprised the right of shooting throughout the parishes

of Abyssinia and Soudan, plentifully stocked with
elephants, lions, rhinoceros, giraffes, buffaloes, hippo-

potami, leopards,

and a great variety of

antelopes,

while the right of fishing extended throughout the

Atbara and neighbouring rivers, that were well stocked

with fish ranging from five to a hundred and fifty

pounds

also

with turtles and crocodiles.

The mansion comprised

entrance-hall, dining-room,

drawing-room, lady's boudoir, library, breakfast-room,

bedroom and dressing-room (with the great advantage

of their combination in one circular room fourteen
feet in diameter).
style,

The

architecture

was of an ancient

from the original design of a pill-box surmounted

by a candle extinguisher.
Thus might my estate have been described by an
English estate agent and auctioneer, with a better
foundation of fact than
ments.

many newspaper

advertise-

ARRANGEMENT OF OUR ESTABLISHMENT.

50

[CHAP. VH.

purchased two additional huts, one of which was

erected at the back (if a circle has a back) of our
I

mansion, as the kitchen, while the other at a greater

We

distance formed the "servants' hall."

all

worked

hard for several days in beautifying our house and

In the lovely short grass that resembled
grounds.
green velvet, we cut walks to the edge of a declivity,
and surrounded the house with a path of snow-white
sand,

resembling coarsely pounded

sugar

we

this

obtained from some decomposed sandstone rock which

crumbled upon the

slightest pressure.

We

collected

curiously-shaped blocks of rock, and masses of

wood

that were imbedded in the sandstone

fossil

these

we

formed into borders for our walks, and opposite to our

front door (there was no back door) we arranged a
half-circle or "carriage drive," of

extreme edge of the declivity

large rocks ; one of

day, as I

carried

which

it

white sand to the

which we bordered with

I believe

may remain

to the spot to

form a

my vanity was touched by the fact that

two Arabs to raise it from the ground.
.

to this

seat,

it

and

required

made a

split bamboos, and two garden seats

opposite the entrance of the house, and we collected
a number of wild plants and bulbs which we planted

rustic table of

in

little

beds;

we

also

sowed the seeds of

different

gourds that were to climb upon our roof.

In the course of a week

a

camp

as

Eobinson

we had formed

Crusoe

himself

as pretty

could have

but he, poor unfortunate, had only his man

;
Friday to assist him, while in our arrangements there

coveted

151

were

many charms and

indescribable

that could only be effected

by a

little

comforts

lady's hand.

Not

only were our walks covered with snow-white sand

and the borders ornamented with beautiful agates that

we had

collected in the neighbourhood, but the interior

of our house was the perfection of neatness

the floor

was covered with white sand beaten firmly together to

the depth of about six inches, the surface was swept

and replaced with

fresh material daily

the travelling-

bedsteads, with their bright green mosquito curtains,

stood on either side, affording a clear space in the

centre of the circle, while exactly opposite the door
stood the gun-rack, with as goodly array of weapons

sportsman could desire

Fletcher double rifle, No. 24.

as the heart of a

My little
One

double,

rifle,

Two

double

rifles,

One double

rifle,

No. 10, by Tatham.

No. 10, by Reilly.

No. 10, by Beattie (one of

my

old Ceylon tools.)

One double gun, No.

One double gun, No.

Beattie.

10,

by

10,

by Purdey, belonging

to

Mr. Oswell, of South African celebrity.

One

single

rifle,

No.

One

single

rifle,

No. 14, by Beattie.

One

single

shell,

rifle,

by Holland

named by

8,

by Manton.

that carried a half-pound explosive

of

the Arabs

Bond
"

Street;

Jenna

el

this

Mootfah

was nick"

(child of

a cannon), and for the sake of brevity I called

it

the "Baby."

My

revolver and a brace of double-barrelled pistols

AN AFRICAN

152

[CHAP. vn.

ELYSIUM.

the wall, which, although the exterior of

hung upon

the house was straw,

we had

lined with the bright

coloured canvas of the tent.

Suspended by loops
ornamental baskets worked by the Arabs,

were

little

that

contained

host

of useful

articles,

such

as

and the remaining surface

was hung with hunting knives, fishing lines, and a

needles, thread, &c.

&c.

A
belonging to the chase.
stood
travelling table, with maps and a few books,
against the wall, and one more article completed
variety of instruments

an exceedingly neat toilette table, the

base of which was a flat-topped portmanteau, conour furniture,

by a cunning device

cealed

of chintz

covered with the usual arrangement of brushes,

this,

mirror,

and

threw an

scent-bottles, &c.,

zation over the establishment, which

by the presence
and

of an

bed.

In the draught of

filter

in

porous jar
it

civili-

was increased

air

that,

be fitted underneath a

circular, could

flat

air of

immense sponging-bath,

being

as

and muslin

next the door stood our

wooden frame, beneath which was a

that received and cooled the clear water

fell.

Our camp was a

perfect

model

we had

a view

of about five miles in extent along the valley of the

Atbara, and

my

it

was

my

daily

amusement

telescope the uninhabited country

posite side of the river,

we used

to sit

with

upon the op-

and watch the wild animals

as they grazed in perfect security.

that time I did not

to scan

smoke

I regret that at

in the cool of the evening

by the bamboo

table outside the door

CHAP.

NO PIPE!

vii.J

153

of our house, and drink our coffee in perfect content-

ment amidst the

beautiful scene of a tropical sunset

and the deep shadows

"

long

chibbook

home

a Paradise

happy

at Sofi

of rest

the
but a pipe
of the Turk would have made our

"

in the valley

we were

Nevertheless

thoroughly

was a delightful calm, and a sense

estrangement from the cares of the

there

a total

world, and an enchanting contrast in the soft green

verdure of the landscape before us to the many hundred weary miles of burning desert through which
we had toiled from Lower Egypt. In those barren
tracts, the

eye had become so accustomed to

sterility

and yellow sand, that it had appeared impossible to

change the scene, and Africa afforded no prospect
beyond the blank hitherto shown upon the chart of
the interior we were now in a land of rich pastures,
;

and apparently in another world, after the toil of a

hard life
it was the haven of a
pilgrim, rest
While we were enjoying a few months' repose,
!

the elements were hard at work.

and generally

out exception,

Every day, withseveral

for

hours of

the night, the lightning flashed and thunder roared

with

little

intermission,

while

the

poured in

rain

such torrents, that the entire country became perfectly impassable, with the exception of the hard

The rich loam of

ground of the Atbara valley.
the table-land had risen like leavened dough, and
was knee-deep
this

surface

a few weeks

in

adhesive

grew

with

it

reached

mud

such
a

height

the

grass

rapidity

of

upon

that

nine

in

or ten

THE ELEMENTS AT WORK.

154

The

feet.

countless
greatest
soil
its

of

mud

rushed

watercourses,
activity

Egypt;

maximum.

in

and

in

which
hurrying

the

torrents

[CHAP. vii.

down

were now in

away

glorious

the

Atbara

the
their

fertile

was

at

CHAPTER

VIII.

THE PLAGUES OF EGYPT.

TIME glided away smoothly
the storms

the

of

nothing to do, and suffered

of their herds,

teased

by the

with the
less,

was

in

few

goats

were

these

so

that they produced but a small

Florian,

practice as

full

ourselves

isolated

for nine

who was
physician,

upon the

seriously

ill

and we conof

our

wife

was

healthiness

camp, when suddenly

by a severe attack of

my

gastric fever,

which

days rendered her recovery almost hopeless.

At length
fair

of

appeared at the same time

and every one was suffering more

especially

prostrated

and

scarcity

great

had

flies,

gratulated
little

flies

Fever

supply.

were

north

the

or

the absence

The only animals that had not been sent

milk.
to

much from

was

there

as

The Arabs had

season.

rainy

amidst

our camp

at

the fever gave

way

to careful attendance,

Arab patients and Florian were also in a

way towards recovery. The plagues of Egypt

were

my

upon us

billions,

in

the

addition

common
to

the

house-flies

were

cattle-tormentor.

in

Our

GO INTO HALF MOURNING.

156

vm.

[CHAP.

donkeys would not graze, but stood day and night

in the dense smoke of fires, made of sticks and
green grass, for protection.
The plague of boils broke out,

was attacked more

and every one

Then came a

or less severely.

plague of which Moses must have been ignorant,

or he would surely have inflicted it upon Pharaoh.
This was a species of

which

itch,

and both sexes equally

it

affected all ages

attacked

all

The

the body, but principally the extremities.

was beyond description

tation

small

vesicles

above the skin, containing a watery

upon

called "coorash,"

this malady,

belief

attributed

the

irri-

rose

The

w hich they
r

and the whole country was

The popular

of

which,

fluid,

bursting, appeared to spread the disease.

Arabs had no control over

ing.

parts

scratch-

disease to

the water of the Atbara at this particular season

although a horrible plague, I do not believe it to

have any connexion with the well-known itch or
"scabies" of Europe.

adopted a remedy that I had found a specific for

mange in dogs, and this treatment became equally
I

successful

in

cases

of

coorash.

with

Gunpowder,

one fourth of sulphur, made into

a soft paste with water, and then formed into an
ointment with fat this should be rubbed over the

the

addition

of

whole body.
of a
still

The

boot

well-cleaned

more

went

striking

into

half

upon a black man

effect

but

is

upon a white man

it

that
it

is

quickly cures the malady.

mourning by

this

process,

and

"

CHAP,

viii.]

CHILD OT THE FE7ER."

157

deep mourning had it been

was only attacked from the feet to a

should have adopted

necessary

Florian was in a dreadful

little

above the knees.

state,

and the vigorous and peculiar action of

his

arms at once explained the origin of the term,

"Scotch fiddle," the musical instrument commonly
attributed to the north of Great Britain.

The Arabs
ing

wretchedly ignorant of the heal-

are

and they

art,

At

suffer accordingly.

least fifty

per cent, of the population in Sofi had a permanent

enlargement of the spleen, which could be felt with

a slight pressure of the hand, frequently as large

an orange

as

was

this

"

called

and was the

(child of the fever),

Jenna

el

Wirde"

result of constant

attacks of fever in successive rainy seasons.

Faith

Arab

the

is

drug that

whatever

his

confusion

supposed to cure the

complaint

may

This minister

to his Faky, or priest.

with

is

of

he applies
not troubled

be,
is

neither

book-learning,

are

the shelves of his library bending beneath weighty

treatises

upon the various maladies of human nature

but he possesses the key to

man

that will apply to

book the Koran.

his

This

medicine chest,

sudorifics,

styptics,

is

all

learning, the

all

cases,

in that one holy

his complete pharmacopoeia

combining
narcotics,

purgatives,

emetics,

and

the most profound M.D. could prescribe.

"multum

in

his patients.

talis-

blisters,
all

With

that
this

parvo" stock-in-trade the Faky receives

No.

1 arrives,

a barren

woman who

re-

quests some medicine that will promote the blessing

THE ARAB

158

No.

of childbirth.

youth, but from

No.

useless.

[CHAP. vin.

man who was

excessive

3,

2,

H.I).

strong in his

has

dissipation

man deformed

become

who

from, his birth,

wishes to become straight as other men.

No. 4, a
blind child.
No. 5, a dying old woman, carried

on a

and sundry other impossible

others of a more simple character.
litter;

The Faky produces

his book, the holy

cases,

with

Koran, and

with a pen formed of a reed he proceeds to write

a prescription
not to be made up by an apothecary,
as such dangerous people do not exist, but the pre;

scription itself is to be sivalloived!

Upon

a smooth

board, like a slate, he rubs sufficient lime to produce

a perfectly white surface

upon this he writes in
large characters, with thick glutinous ink, a verse or
;

verses from the Koran, that he considers applicable

to the case

this completed,

quotation, and converts

addition

of

perfect faith
fee

by the

according

course
or that

it

little

into

it

water;

this

in

tage possessed

which

no good
the

any way superior

it

by the system

may

result

is

patient returns

before,"

well

by the

swallowed

in

is

effects a cure,

to the prescriptions
;

the only advan-

complete innocence,

If
perhaps claim a superiority.
attained by the first holy dose,

and the prescription

as

is

holy

who in return pays a

demand of the Faky.
Of

of a thorough-bred English doctor

IT)

potation

cannot be supposed that this

it is

off the

patient,

the

to

he washes

with
is

known

undiminished

repeated as
to

the

confidence,

"the draught

physic-drinkers

of

ARAB FONDNESS FOR

CHAP. vin. j

RELICS.

159

England, and in like manner attended with the bill.

The Fakeers make a considerable amount by this
simple practice, and they add to their small earnings

by the sale of verses of the Koran

As few people can read or write,
the

of mystery in

art of writing

as talismans.

there

air

which much en-

upon which

hances the value of a scrap of paper

is

an

is

written a verse from the Koran.

few piastres
the purchase of such

expended in
talismans, which are carefully and very neatly sewn
into small envelops of leather, and are worn by
are

all

willingly

people, being

The Arabs

handed down from father to

are especially fond of relics

thus,

the return from a pilgrimage to Mecca, the

or pilgrim,
religious

is

upon

' '

hadji,"

have purchased from some

the sacred shrine either a few

certain to

Faky

square inches

son.

of

of

cloth,

or

some such

belonged to the prophet Mahomet.

This

that

trifle,

is

exhibited

to his friends and strangers as a wonderful spell

against some particular malady, and it is handed
about and received with extreme reverence by the

assembled crowd.

when

once formed one of a

a pilgrim returned to his native village

circle
:

we

number upon the ground, while

bosom a leather envelop, suspended

sat in a considerable

he drew from his

from his neck, from which he produced a piece of

extremely greasy woollen

cloth,

square, 1;he original colour of

been

impossible

to

guess.

about three inches

which
This

it

would have

was a piece

of

Mahomet's garment, but what portion he could not

THE PEST SPOTS OF THE WORLD.

160

[CHAP. vni.

The pilgrim had paid largely for this blessed

and it was passed round our circle from hand

say.
relic,

to hand, after
prietor,

who

having
raised

it

been kissed by the pro-

first

the

to

crown of

his

head,

and then wiped

Each person who received it went
both his eyes.
through a similar performance, and as ophthalmia and
which he touched with the

cloth,

other diseases of the eyes were extremely prevalent,

several of

the

had eyes that had not the

party

brightness of the gazelle's

nevertheless, these were

supposed to become brighter after having been wiped

by the holy cloth. How many eyes this same piece

of cloth had wiped it would be impossible to say,
but such facts are
holy

relics,

that

sufficient

to prove the danger of

inoculators of

are

all

manner of

contagious diseases.
I

in

believe

holy

We

of the world.

shrines

as

the

pest

spots

generally have experienced

in

Western Europe that all violent epidemics arrive

The great breadth of the Atlantic
from the East.
boundary would naturally protect us from the West,
but

infectious

small-pox, &c.

disorders,

may

be

such

as

generally

plague,

cholera,

tracked

throughout their gradations from their original nests

those
;

nests are in the East, where the heat of the climate

acting

upon the

filth

of

semi-savage communities

engenders pestilence.

The holy

places

of both

Christians

and

Maho-

metans are the receptacles for the masses of people

of all nations and classes who have arrived from

THE DANGERS OF HOLY SHRINES.

<;HAP. vin.]

all

of the compass

points

the

such people are of poor estate

on foot from immense

toiled

and

hunger

fatigue,

that

of

weak

any epidemic.

scarcity

of

of

many, who have

distances, suffering from

own remote

countries, but

state that courts the

Thus crowded

provisions,

together,

a want of

of cleanliness

possibility

number

and bringing with them not

only the diseases of their

arriving in

greater

16!

been unwashed for weeks or months

with a

and

water,

with clothes

attack

na

that

have

in a

camp

of dirty pilgrims, without an attempt at drainage,

an accumulation of filth takes place that generates
cholera

either

or typhus

the

latter,

in

its

most

"

plague."
malignant form, appears as the dreaded
of
Should "such an epidemic attack the mass
pilgrims
debilitated

by the want

of nourishing food,

and

ex-

hausted by their fatiguing march, it runs riot like

a fire among combustibles, and the loss of life is
terrific.

The survivors

radiate

from

this

common

centre,

to their respective homes,

to

seeds of the

upon their return

which they carry the

pestilence to

germinate upon new soils in different countries.

Doubtless the clothes of the dead furnish materials
for innumerable holy relics as vestiges of the

robe

of

the

Prophet

the pilgrims throughout

these

are

ward-

disseminated by

all countries,

pregnant with

being brought into personal contact

with hosts of true believers, Pandora's box could
disease;

and,

not be more
-

Not only

fatal.

are relics

upon a pocket

scale

conveyed

ARRIVAL OF THE HOLY BODY.

162

[CHAP.

vm.

and reverenced by the Arabs, but the

body of any Faky, who in lifetime was considered
extra holy, is brought from a great distance to be

by

pilgrims,

some particular

interred in

a tree

is

thus the
typhus,

is

a rarity, a plank for a coffin

wrapped in

miles,

is

is

unknown

Faky, who may have

reverend

In this form he
dred

In countries where

spot.

cloths

and packed

transported, perhaps,

slung

mometer above 130

upon

in a mat.

some hun-

camel, with the

Fahr. in the

sun,

died of

ther-

and he

is

conveyed to the village that is so fortunate as to

be honoured with his remains. It may be readily
imagined that with a favourable wind, the inhabitants are
his
Sofi,

warned of

arrival.

his approach

Happily, long

some time before

before

we

arrived

at

the village had been blessed

a celebrated

by the death of
Faky, a holy man who would have been

described as a second Isaiah were the annals of the

country duly chronicled.

This great

as he

was termed, had

village

on the borders of the

departed

hard cam el -journey from Sofi

"man
this

of God,"

life

at

about eight days

but from some as-

Nile,
;

mingled no doubt with jobbery, the

inhabitants of Sofi had laid claim to his body, and

sumed

right,

he had arrived upon a camel horizontally, and had

been buried about fifty yards from our present
His grave was beneath a clump of mimosas
that shaded the spot, and formed the most procamp.

minent object in the foreground of our landscape.

Thither every Friday the

women

of the village con-

THE FAKTS GRAVE.

CHAP, vni.]

163

gregated, with offerings of a few handfuls of dliurra

in

small

gourd-shells,

while

grave,

which

they ate

the

they laid
holy

earth

upon the
in

small

they scraped like rabbits, from a

hole they had burrowed towards the venerated corpse ;
this hole was about two feet deep from continual
pinches,

which

and must have been very near the Faky.

Although bamboos did not grow in Sofi, great

scratching,

numbers were brought down by the river during

the rains
these were eagerly collected by the
;

Arabs, and the grave of the

with

selected

upon which were hung

The people could
banners.

specimens,

small pieces of rag-like

not explain

Faky was ornamented

why

they were thus ornamented, but I

imagine the custom had originated from the necessity

of scaring the wild animals that might have ex-

humed

the body.

Although

the

grave

of

this

considered a sacred spot, the

revered

women had

Faky was
a curious

custom that we should not consider an honour to

they met in parties beneath the shade of the mimosas that covered the
the sanctity of the place

grave, for the express purpose of freeing each other's

heads from vermin;

the creatures thus caught, in-

stead of being killed, were turned loose

upon the

Faky.

Although the Arabs in places remote from the

immediate action of the Egyptian authorities are
generally lawless, they
their

own

sheiks,

and

are

extremely

especially

to

obedient

to

the fakeers

ARAB DOCTORING.

164

thus

it

important to secure such

is

My

people as friends.

me many

gained

[CHAP.

success

heads

friends, as I studiously avoided the

wished them

kindness

the

to receive

as

as he
titles

services,

acts

simple

obligation,

by curing him

of

of a fever;

chanced to combine in his own person

of both sheik and faky, I had acquired

a great ascendancy in the village, as

had

my

thus I had placed the Sheik Hassan bel

Kader under an
and

of the

a physician had

as

acceptance of any present in return for

which

vm.

more

proved

than

efficacious

my
the

medicines
talismans.

"

Physician, cure thyself/' applied to the Faky, who

found three grains of my tartar emetic more powerful

than a whole chapter of the Koran.

'We frequently had medical

contents of

my

large medicine-chest were

with wonder by a curious crowd

piece

examined

the simple effect

powder was a source of

of mixing a seidlitz

ment

and the

discussions,

astonish-

but a few drops of sulphuric acid upon a

of

cotton

strong

cloth,

which

it

destroyed

immediately, was a miracle that invested the medicine-chest with

The Arab

character for

specific

all

diseases.

style of doctoring is rather rough.

If a

horse or other animal has inflammation, they hobble

the legs and throw it upon the ground, after which

a number

operation
until

it

is

relieved

attacked with

fever,

of

made

to

drink,

kick

it

in

the

belly

man

(by death).

Should a

his

prescribe a system

of diet, in addition to
is

men

as

friends

the

Koran of the Faky

hot as

he can swallow

be

he
it,

DELIGHTS OF ARJB SURGERY.

CHAP. VIIL]

about

Young

dogs, as a cure for distemper, are

melted

of

quart

sheep's

the roof of a house to the ground

ten

One night we were

feet.

we suddenly heard
illumined

the

by

165
or

fat

butter.

thrown from

a height of about

when

sitting at dinner,

a great noise, and the air was

of a hut on fire.
In the

blaze

midst of the tumult I heard the unmistakable cries

of dogs, and thinking that they were unable to escape

from the
proached,

ran towards

fire,

one

first

and

As

the spot.

then

another

apran

dog

screaming from the flames, until a regular pack of

about twenty scorched animals appeared in quick
succession, all half

informed that

mad

with fright and

was

fire.

hydrophobia was

very prevalent in
the country, and that the certain preventive from
that frightful

malady was

the village pass through

old hut

which,

thrown

had been

filled

to

the

make
fire.

all

the dogs of

Accordingly an

with straw and

fired

after

brought by its owner and

into the flames.
Upon another occasion I

each

dog was

heard a great yelling and commotion, and I found

Mahomet's " mother's brother's cousin's
sister's
mother's son," Achmet, struggling on the ground, and
nearly overpowered

by a number

of Arabs,

who were

determined to operate upon a large boil in his groin,

which they had condemned to be squeezed, although,
it

was not

in a state that admitted of such treatment.

The patient was

biting

sides in self-defence,

and

hardly be persuaded to

and kicking

liberally

on

all

his obstinate surgeons could

desist.

THE PIG AND THE KORAN.

166
is

Syphilis

common throughout

[CHAP.

vm.

the country, a,nd

there are several varieties of food that are supposed to

is

A sheep is killed,

a cure.

effect

cooked with the

baked in a pot

fat,

and the

entire flesh

being cut into small pieces and

pounds of butter or other

and in that state are poured

several

grease are then boiled,

baked meat

into the jars containing the

the patient

then shut up by himself in a hut with this large

quantity of fat food, with which he is to gorge himself

is

until the

whole

same

for the

is

Another supposed cure

consumed.
is

disease,

a pig dressed in a similar

manner, which meat, although forbidden by the Koran,

may be taken medicinally. The flesh of the crocodile
is

eaten greedily, being supposed to promote desire.

There are few animals that the Arabs of the Nubian

provinces will
eaten

by

refuse

the wild boar

invariably

the Arab hunters, although in direct opposi-

tion to the rules of the Koran.

what

is

their

Faky would say

"

Oh

if

once asked them

he were aware of such a

"

"

they replied, we have already

asked his permission, as we are sometimes severely

transgression

pressed for food in the jungles

the

Koran

in your

he says,

hand and no pig, you

'

If

you have

are forbidden

you have the pig in your hand

and no Koran, you had better eat what God has given

to eat pork

but

if

"

you/
This

is

a charming example of simplicity in theomight perhaps be followed with

logical discussion that

we might cease to
advantage in graver questions
strain at the gnats and swallow our pigs.
;

CHAP,

SWORD HUNTERS OF THE HAMRAN ARABS.

viii.]

had an audience of a party of hunters

16J

whom

had long wished to meet. Before my arrival at Sofi

I had heard of a particular tribe of Arabs that inhabited the country south of Cassala, between that

town and the Basd country

these were the Hamrans,

who were described as the most extraordinary Nimrods, who hunted and killed all wild animals, from the
antelope to the elephant, with no other

the sword

the lion and the rhinoceros

fore the invincible sabres of these

whom

as an old elephant-hunter T

salaam, and

humbly
From the manner

confess

my

weapon than
fell alike

be-

mighty hunters, to
wished to make my

inferiority.

had been

in which their exploits

hitherto explained to me, I could not understand

how

an elephant with the sword,

unless the animal should be mobbed by a crowd of
it

could be possible to

men and hacked

kill

to death, but I

was assured that the

most savage elephant had no chance upon good riding

ground against four aggageers (as the hunters with
the sword are designated).
I had determined to
engage a party of these hunters to accompany
throughout
at

the

excellent

my

proper

me

exploration of the Abyssinian rivers

when

season,

opportunity

of

have

an

combining sport with an

examination of the country.

come known, and the

should

My

intentions

visit of the

had be-

hunters was the

consequence.

The Hamran Arabs

are

distinguished

other tribes by an extra length of hair,

down

from the

worn parted

the centre, and arranged in long curls

other-

THE ARAB SHIELDS.

168
wise, there is

others,

vm.

no perceptible difference in their ap-

pearance from other Arabs.

all

[CHAP.

They

are armed, as are

with swords and shields; the

latter are

and are generally formed of rhinoceros hide.

There are two forms of shields used by the various
circular,

tribes of

Arabs

one

is

a narrow oval, about four feet

in length, of either bull's or buffalo's hide, stiffened

by a strong
other

stick

is circular,

which passes down the centre the

about two feet in diameter, with a
;

projection in the centre as a protection for the hand.

When

upon the ground, the shield somewhat

resembles an immensely broad-brimmed hat, with a
laid flat

low crown terminating in a point.

In the inside of
the crown is a strong bar of leather as a grip for
the hand, while the outside

is

generally guarded
a strip of the scaly hide of a crocodile.

by

The skins most prized for shields are those of the

those of the buffalo and:
giraffe and the rhinoceros
;

but they are

considered inferior to the former, while the hide of
elephant are likewise in general use,

the hippopotamus

is

The hide of the

too thick

and heavy.

wonderfully tough, and

combines the great advantage of extreme lightness

with strength.
shields

they are

giraffe is

The Arabs never

made

and the gashes upon

for

many

ornament their

rough and actual

service,

are proofs of the necessity

of such a protection for the owner.

Although there are two patterns of shields among

the Arabs, there is no difference in the form of their
swords, which simply vary in size according to the

CHAP,

HINTS.

viii.]

FOR CARRYING THE SWORD.

The blade

strength of the wearer.

is

1GD

long and straight,

having no
other guard for the hand than the plain bar, which
at right angles with the hilt forms the cross.
I
believe this form was adopted after the Crusades,
two-edged, with a simple cross

when

the long, straight, cross-handled blades of the

Christian knights

that

handle,

All these blades are

established the fashion.

manufactured

at

Sollingen,

and

are

for the trade of the interior.

Egypt

and

differ in quality

temper.

The Arabs

price,

but

down through many

wear

exported

to

Of course they

the^r are of excellent

are extremely proud of a good

sword, and a blade of great value

principal people

behind them

an impression

left

generations.

is

carefully

handed

The sheiks and

The

silver-hilted swords.

scab-

bards are usually formed of two thin strips of elastic

but soft wood, covered with leather. No Arab would
accept a metal scabbard, as

edge of his weapon.

The

it

would destroy the keen

greatest care

is

taken in

While on the march, the

weapon slung on the pommel of

sharpening the swords.

Arab

carries

his saddle,

his

from which

it

passes beneath his thigh.

There are two projecting pieces of leather, about

twelve inches apart, upon the scabbard, between

which the thigh of the horseman fits, and thus

prevents the sword from slipping from its place.
Carried in this position,

at

full

speed there

is

an

absence of that absurd dangling and jumping of the

sword that is exhibited in our British cavalry, and
the

weapon seems

to

form a portion of the

rider.

KEENNESS OF THE EDGE.

170

The

action of an

first

[CHAP. vin.

Arab when he dismounts

at a

upon the march, and sits beneath a tree, is to

draw his sword and after trying both edges with
his thumb, he carefully strops the blade to and fro

halt

his shield until a satisfactory proof of the edge

upon
is

made by shaving

it

returned

is

swords

these
feet

the

in

seven-eighths
of

the

to

the hair off his arm, after which

the

sheath,

that of

a. fair

of

length

the

guard to

average size

measured
is

blade,

and

one

the

hilt,

from the

breadth

in

have

extremity,

five

three

inch and
top

and a half

Thus the sword complete would be about

three feet five or six inches.
Such a weapon
inches.

possesses

as

immense

sharp

as

as

power,

razor.

the

But the

edge is nearly
Arabs have not

the

slightest knowledge of swordsmanship ; they

never parry with the blade, but trust entirely to the
shield, and content themselves with slashing either

at their adversary or at the animal that he rides

one good cut delivered by a powerful arm would

sever a man at the waist like a carrot.
The Arabs
are not very powerful

men

they are extremely light

and active, and generally average about five feet eight
inches in height.
But their swords are far too heavy

and although they can deliver a

they cannot recover the sword sufficiently

for their strength

severe cut,

quick to parry, therefore they are contented with the

shield

as their

only guard.

swordsman they would be

If opposed to a

good

perfectly at his mercy, as

a feint at the head causes them to raise the shield

ARAB SWORDSMANSHIP.

CHAP, vinj

this prevents

them from seeing the

171

would

point, that

immediately pass through the body.

Notwithstanding

their

deficiency

in

the

they are wonderful fellows to

the sword,

art

cut

of

and

and when the sharp edge of the heavy weapon

touches an enemy, the effect is terrible.
slash,

The elephant-hunters, or aggageers, exhibited their

swords, which differed in no respect from those usually

worn

but they were bound with cord very closely

from the guard for about nine inches along the blade,
;

to enable

them

to be grasped

the hilt was held by the

by the

right hand, while

weapon was thus

a two-handed sword.
The scabbards

converted into

left

the

were strengthened by an extra covering, formed of

the skin of the elephant's ear.

In a long conversation with these men, I found

a corroboration of all that I had previously heard of
their exploits,

and they described the various methods

of killing the elephant with the sword.

who
foot,

Those hunters

could not afford to purchase horses hunted on

in

parties

method was

not exceeding two persons.

Their

an elephant, so
as to arrive at their game between the hours of
10 A.M. and noon, at which time the animal is either
asleep,

to follow the tracks of

or extremely listless^

and easy

to approach.

Should they discover the animal asleep, one of the

hunters would creep stealthily towards the head, and
with one blow sever the trunk while stretched upon
the ground

upon

in

which

case, the elephant

would

start

his feet, while the hunters escaped in the con-

THE AGGAGEERS.

172

moment.

of the

fusion

[CHAP.

vm.

The trunk severed would

cause a haemorrhage sufficient to insure the death of

On

the elephant within about an hour.

the other

hand, should the animal be awake upon their arrival,

it would be impossible to approach the trunk ; in such
a case, they would creep

up from behind, and give a

tremendous cut at the back sinew of the hind

disable the elephant at once,

leg,

Such a blow would

about a foot above the heel.

and would render com-

paratively easy a second cut to the remaining leg

the arteries being divided, the animal would quickly

These were the methods adopted by

bleed to death.

poor hunters, until, by the sale of ivory, they could

purchase horses for the higher branch of the art.

Provided with horses, the party of hunters should

not exceed four.
They start before daybreak, and
ride

the

slowly throughout

country in

search

of

generally keeping along the course of a

elephants,

come upon the tracks where a herd

elephant may have drunk during the night.

river until they

or a single

When

once upon the tracks, they follow fast towards

the retreating game.

miles distant

but

it

The elephants may be twenty

matters

little

to the aggageers.

At length they

discover them, and the hunt begins.

The

to single out the bull with the largest

first

tusks

step

is

this is the

commencement

of the fight.

After

a short hunt, the elephant turns upon his pursuers,

who

and

from his headlong charge until

he gives up the pursuit he at length turns to bay
scatter

fly

when again

pressed by the hunters.

It is the

duty

CHAP,

viii.]

of one

ELEPHANT HUNTING WITH THE SWORD.

man

in

to ride

particular

up

1J3

close to the

head of the elephant, and thus to absorb

its

atten-

This insures a desperate charge.

The greatest coolness and dexterity are then required
by the hunter, who now, the hunted, must so adapt

tion

upon

himself.

speed of his horse to the pace of the elephant,

that the enraged beast gains in the race until it

.the

almost reaches the

tail

In the mean time, two hunters

the race continues.

gallop

up behind the

whose attention

is

In this manner

of the horse.

elephant, unseen

by the animal,

completely directed to the horse

With extreme agility, when

almost within his grasp.
close to the heels of the elephant, one of the hunters,
while at

full

speed, springs to the ground with his

companion seizes the bridle, and

with one dexterous two-handed blow he severs the

drawn sword,

as his

He

immediately jumps out of the way

and remounts his horse but if the blow is successful,

back sinew.

becomes disabled by the first pressure of

the enormous weight of the
foot upon the ground

-the elephant
its

animal dislocates the

,The hunter

who has

diately turns,

joint,

and

it is

rendered helpless.

hitherto led the elephant

and riding

to within a

few

imme-

feet of the

he induces the animal to attempt another

This, clumsily made, affords an easy opporcharge.
tunity for the aggageers behind to slash the sinew

trunk,

of

and the immense brute

the remaining leg,

reduced to a stand-still

it

dies of loss of blood in

a short time, thus positively killed by one

two strokes of the sword

is

man

with

DISABLED BY HIS

174

This extraordinary hunting

lative danger,

who

attended with super-

is

I felt inclined to

and make a low bow

me, when

and the

ness of their hearts

fall

take off

victims

my

cap

the gallant and swarthy

to

sat before

vm.

[CHAP.

and the hunters frequently

to their intrepidity.

fellows

OWN SWORD.

knew

the tough-

activity of their limbs.

One

of

own

sword, that had severed the knee-cap and bitten

them was disabled

deep into the

by a cut from

for life

joint, leaving a scar

his

that appeared as

though the leg had been nearly off he had missed his
blow at the elephant, owing to the high and tough
dried grass that had partially stopped the sword, and
;

in springing

upon one

side, to

avoid the animal that

had turned upon him, he fell over his own sharp blade,
which cut through the bone, and he lay helpless he
;

was saved by one of his comrades, who immediately

rushed in from behind, and with a desperate cut
severed the back sinew of the elephant.
to these fine fellows,

who

manner recounted

their

course,

felt

in a

As

I listened

modest and unassuming

matters

adventures as

exceedingly small.

whole

My

of
life

had been passed in wild sports from early manhood, and I had imagined that I understood as

much
were

as

most people

men who,

of

this

subject

but here

without the aid of the best

rifles

and deadly projectiles, went straight at their game,

and faced the lion in his den with shield and sabre.
There
heart

is

was

fraternised

freemasonry among hunters, and

drawn towards these aggageers.

upon the

spot,

and

looked

my

We

forward

CHAP,

MARIA THERESA.

viij.]

175

with intense pleasure to the day when

become

allies in action.

have been rewarded by

we might

this alliance in being now-

able to speak of the deeds of

others that far excel

own, and of bearing testimony to the wonderful

my

courage and dexterity of these Nimrods, instead of

continually relating anecdotes of dangers in the

first

which cannot be more disagreeable to the

person,

reader than to the narrator.

"Without
passed in

inflicting
Sofi,

from

extracts

it

my

of five

description

will be necessary to

journal, to convey

months

make

a few

an idea of the

which the time was occupied.

"August 7, 1861. There is plenty of game on the

manner

in

other side of the river, but nothing

no means of

are

strong,

and about two hundred yards

name

this

there

crossing, as the stream is exceedingly

felled a tree for a canoe,

of the

upon

of timber,

but there

is

in width.

We

nothing worthy

and the wood

is

extremely

heavy.
"

There are several varieties of wild spinach, and a

plant that makes a good salad, known by the Arabs as
'

Regly

also wild onions as large as a

man's

fist,

but uneatable.

counted seventy-six giraffes on the

This magnificent sight is
opposite side of the river.
most tantalizing. The sheik made his appearance

"August

8.

to-day with a present of butter and honey, and some

money in exchange for dollars that I had given

him.
The Austrian dollar of Maria Theresa is the
small

GREAT FAILURE.

176

[CHAP.

vm.

only large coin current in this country the effigy of

the empress, with a very low dress and a profusion of
bust, is, I believe, the charm that suits the Arab taste.
;

So particular are these people, that they

reject the coin

after careful examination, unless they can distinctly

count seven dots that form the star upon the coronet.

No

clean

money

must be

will pass current in this country

all

and gummy, otherwise they are

this may be accounted for, as the Arabs
rejected
have no method of detecting false money
thus they
coins

dirty

are afraid to accept

"August

coin.

Great failure!

16.

canoe, but although

wood was

any new
it

was

"We

launched the

carefully hollowed out, the

heavy that it would only carry one

person, and even then it threatened to become a
bathing-machine thus nine days' hard work are lost.
so

Florian

is

shall set to

in

despair,

work

but

instanter,

Nil desperandum

and make a

raft.

'
!

Counted

twenty-eight giraffes on the opposite side of the

river.

"August 17. I set to work at daybreak to make

a raft of bamboo and inflated skins. There is a wood
ambatch (Anemone mirabilis) that is brought
down by the river from the upper country; this is
called

lighter than cork,

pieces for

day

my

raft.

and

have obtained four large

Mahomet has been very saucy toI

he has been offensively impertinent for a long

time, so this morning I punched his head.

"August

18.

Launched the

raft;

it

carries four

persons safely, but the current is too strong, and it

In the afternoon I shot
therefore unmanageable.

is

'a

CHAP,

THE BABOONS AND THE CROCODILE.

viii.]

on the other side of the river (about

two hundred yards) with the little Fletcher rifle,
large crocodile

and

after

bank

it

"

The

struggling for some time upon the steep

rolled into the water.

on the opposite bank are

of the dog-faced baboons (Cynocephalus)

large tamarind trees

generally full

in the evening, at their drin king-hour.

watched a

large crocodile creep slily out of the water,

waiting

among

and

lie

in

the rocks at the usual drinking-place

before they arrived, but the baboons were too wide

awake
the

to be taken in so easily.

first

several

to discover the

and

wise

enemy

experienced

young fellow was

he had accompanied
old

hands,

to

the

extremity of a bough that at a considerable height

from this post they had a bird'soverhung the river
;

eye view, and reconnoitred before one of the numerous

party descended to

drink.

The, sharp eyes of the

once detected the

young one
matched in colour so well with the
at

probably a
late.

man would

crocodile,

who

rocks, that

most

not have noticed

it

until too

At once the young one commenced shaking the

bough and screaming with

all his

might

to attract the

attention of the crocodile, and to induce

it

to

move.

In this he was immediately joined by the whole party,

who yelled in chorus, while the large old males bel-

lowed defiance, and descended to the lowest branches

within eight or ten feet of the crocodile. It was of no
use the pretender never stirred, and I watched it
until dark

for

it

remained

sti]l

in the

same

some unfortunate baboon whose

place, waiting

thirst

might pro-

THE DROWNED ELEPHANT.

178

[CHAP.

vm.

but not one was sufficiently foolish,

although the perpendicular banks prevented them from

voke his fate

drinking except at that particular spot.

"
The birds in this country moult twice during the

and those of the most

brilliant colours

exchange
or
Several
for
a
sober
brown.
hues
grey
gaudy
the swallow also sings,
varieties sing beautifully
year,

their

although in

have never heard

Europe
more than its well-known

"One

of the

mimosas

it

attempt

twitter.

yields an excellent fibre for

rope-making, in which my people are busily engaged

the bark is as tough as leather, and forms an
;

admirable material for the manufacture of sacks.

business

is

carried to a considerable extent

Arabs, as there
size to contain

pounds of

is

a large

demand

two hundred and

gum

by the

for sacks of sufficient

fifty or three

arabic (half a camel load).

sack slung upon each side can

This

hundred

Thus one

be packed easily to

the animal.
"

August

river to-day

19.
;

this is the second that has passed within

the last few days;

drowned

dead elephant floated down the

they have been most probably

in attempting to cross

tributary to

the Atbara.

becoming known, the

As

some powerful torrent

usual,

upon the

fact

entire village rushed out, and,

crowd of men plunged into

the river about a quarter of a mile below Sofi, and
despite the crocodiles, a

swimming out they intercepted the swollen carcase,

which was quickly covered with people
they were
;

carried several miles

down

the river before they could

GAME ON THE EAST SANK.

CHAP. VIIL]

by ropes fastened
Afterwards, there was a general

tow the body

swimmers.

to

"

tusks,

to

shore,

over the division of the spoil

and the

179

the

quarrel

the skin, in sections,

were brought home in triumph.

The country being now bright

are distinctly visible

green, the antelopes

on the opposite

Three tetel

side.

(Antelopus Bubalis) graze regularly together in the

same place daily. This antelope is a variety of the
hartebeest of South Africa
colour,
"

and

One

fruit in

is

about the

a reddish-chestnut

it is

size of

an Alderney cow.

of the mimosas (Acacia Arabica) produces a

appearance resembling a tamarind

this is a

powerful astringent and a valuable medicine in cases of

it is generally used by the Arabs
fever and diarrhoea
;

for preparing hides

when dry and broken

it is

rich in

a hard gum, which appears to be almost pure tannin.

"
and damp weather
Close, hot,
August 20.

violent rain about sixteen hours out of the twentyfour.

When

the hot season sets

almost

boil.

This morning I counted 154 giraffes in

in,

the country will

one herd on the other side of the river; there were

many

more, but they passed each other so rapidly that

I could not reckon the entire troop.

"August
literally

21.

counted

no game upon

103

giraffes.

There

is

this side (west) of the Atbara,

as the country for twelve hours' journey from Sofi is

thronged with Arabs during the dry season.

"

All

my

people are more or less

ill

am

not very

well myself; but I have staved off an attack of fever

by preventive measures.

CAPABILITIES OF THE SOIL.

180

vm.

Such a magnificent sunset I have

From all quarters were gathering storms

25.

"August
never seen

[CHAP.

of the blackest description, each cloud emitting light-

ning without intermission, and as the sun touched the

horizon upon the only clear point,
fire

it

illumined like a

the pitch-black clouds, producing the most extra-

ordinary effect of vivid colouring,

lightning,

combined with

and a rainbow.

"

Kain in torrents throughout the night. It

impossible to walk on the flat table-land,
soil

is

so saturated,

that

is

now

as

the

clings to the feet like

it

birdlime, in masses that will pull the shoes off unless

they

fit

tight.

All this immense tract of rich land

would grow any amount of

cotton, or wheat,

as in

country the rains fall with great regularity this

might be sent to Berber by boats during the season

this

of flood.
"

August 27.

My antelope

skins are just completed

Each skin required a

and are thoroughly tanned.

double handful of the 'garra,' or fruit of the acacia

arabica.

The process

is

simple

thoroughly wetted, the garra

is

the

pounded

skin

being

into a paste

rubbed into the hide with a rough piece of

sandstone, until it becomes perfectly clean, and free
this

is

from impurities;

it

is

then wrapped

up

with

quantity of the paste, and is deposited in a trough

It
and kept in the shade for twenty-four hours.

should undergo a similar rubbing daily, and be kept

in the trough to soak in the garra for four or five
days.

After this process

it

should be Veil rubbed

CHAP,

TANNING OF LEATHER.

viii.]

with

181

required to keep soft and pliable when

If soaked in milk after tanning, the leather
if

fat,

wetted.

become waterproof. The large tanned ox-hides

used by the Arabs as coverlets are perfectly waterwill

and are simply prepared with milk. These are

made in Abyssinia, and can be purchased at from ten
proof,

to

piastres

The

a dollar each.

Arabs thoroughly

appreciate the value of leather, as they are entirely

dependent upon such material for coverlets, waterThe sac de voyage

sacks, travelling bags, &c. &c.
is

drawn

a simple skin of either goat or sheep

the animal as a stocking

drawn from the

is

leg

off

this

very neatly ornamented, and arranged with loops

which close the mouth, secured by a padlock. Very
is

large sacks capable of containing three

of corn, are

made

in the

hundred pounds

same manner by drawing

entire the skins of the larger antelopes

ttel

is

is

that of the

considered the most valuable for this purpose.

The hide
and

off

of the wild ass

is

the finest of

all leather,

so close in the grain that before tanning,

when

dry and hardened in the sun, it resembles horn in

I have made excellent mocassins with
transparency.
this

skin,

which are admirable

"August 28.

Sofi being

if

kept wetted.

upon the

frontier, the

are merely nominal, accordingly there

is

laws

an interesting

Should any man commit

mixture in the society.
a crime in Abyssinia, he takes refuge over the border;
thus, criminals of the blackest character are at large.

One

fellow

who has

paid us daily visits killed his

brother with a knife a few months since.

have

NATIVE BASKETS AND MATTING.

]82

gentleman from the

excluded this

[CHAP. vin.

of

select circle

our acquaintance.

"The Arab women

very clever in basketwork and matting they carry their milk in baskets
that are so closely fitted as to be completely

dome

the

the

curiously
are

these

arranged
to cover

which are

steads,

the

of

into

of

leaves

fine

In

strips.

matting required for their

coarse

manufacture

they

tents,

shred

palm,

to

addition

made

are

these

water-tight;

are

fine

sleeping mats,
coloured patterns ;

very

various

in

the

native bed-

angareps, or

frameworks

simple

upon

legs,

covered with a network of raw hide worked in a

soft

after

state,

of a

which

hardens to

it

dry.

No bed

climate

than

drum when thoroughly

comfortable

warm

for

the tightness

angarep with a simple mat covering;

fully
is

and

elastic,

from

permitted

Arab women

putting

grass

that
large

is

have

been

have

soles to

leather cover of a

son can walk

native

is

beauti-

employed the

make me a hunting cap of

dome palm, to my old pattern.

28.

new

below.

free ventilation

cool, as

always

more

the

to

basket-work of

"August

is

it

is

my

shoes,

having cut up the

gun-case for material.

barefooted

armed with

resembles a

this

thorns.

vetch,

as a horse-bean

in

bears

the

in

busily employed

A
a

No

per-

as

the

country,

peculiar species,
circular

exterior of

the

pod

pod

as
is

armed with long and sharp spikes like the head of

these pods when ripe are exan ancient mace
;

CHAP,

BACHEET IS TOO ATTENTIVE.

viii.]

183

ceedingly hard, and falling to the ground in great

numbers, the spikes will pierce the sole of any shoe
unless of a stout substance.

very ill with fever. The

mosquitoes are so troublesome that the Arabs cannot sleep in their huts, but are forced to arrange
Florian

"August 29.

is

platforms about six feet high, upon which the whole

they are awakened by a sudden

thunderstorm, and are compelled to rush into their

family rest until

huts

this has

been the case nightly for some time

past.

"

I find that

my new

the whole village has been trying on

woman has just

me to-day, thick

hunting-cap, that an Arab

this was brought to

completed
with butter and dirt from their greasy pates.
;

is

yesterday Florian was ill and required

his servant tried the degree of heat by

trifle

some tea

This

plunging his dirty black finger to the bottom:

"
Shortly after our wild Arab lad, Bacheet, was
engaged,

we

him

drilled

as table servant.

The

flies

were very troublesome, and continually committed

suicide

by drowning themselves

in

the tea.

One

morning during breakfast there were many cases of

temporary insanity/ and my
fdo de se, or
'

wife's tea-cup

to

was

be attentive,

finger

and
7

victims

full of

out

picked

thumb

'
!

the

Now,

Bacheet wishing,
bodies with his

my

good

fellow,

Bacheet,
exclaimed,
you really must not put
your dirty fingers in the tea you should take them
out with the tea-spoon.
Look here/ and I perI

"

184

OH BACHEET! YOU IGNORAMUS!"

JCHAP.

vm.

formed the operation, and safely landed several flies

that were still kicking.
But mind, Bacheet/ I
'

continued,

be sure that

'

clean

it is

On

saucers to prevent accidents

ment Bacheet, who was

the

to

with

the cups

but to our astonish-

in waiting,

a tea-spoon from the table, wiped

the corner of

first,

the following morn-

we covered up

breakfast

at

ing

you wipe the tea-spoon

'that

it

and

table-cloth,

suddenly took
carefully with

down

stooping

beneath the bed, most carefully saved from drowning, with the tea-spoon, several flies that were in
the last

extremity

by no means

within a vessel

adapted for a spoon.

Perfectly satisfied with the
result, he
carefully rewiped the tea-spoon upon
the table-cloth, and replaced
6

Oh

Bacheet

ordinary and

was no help

Bacheet

for

it

species

This peculiar

an

fly

is

orange-coloured

rings

animals are worried almost

countless

that drives

'

However, there
the boy thought he was doing

September

by the

extra-

you ignoramus, you

impossible animal

the right thing exactly.

"
The
1.
to death

in its proper position.

it

flies,

the camels

about the

is

from

terrific

by

that

the country.

of a wasp, with

size

with

body,

the proboscis

especially

and white

black
is

it

double,

and

appears to be disproportioned, being two-thirds the

"When

length of the entire insect.

an animal, or man,
ously,

like the

deep into the

it

prick

flesh,

at

this fly attacks

pierces the skin

of

the

red-hot

same

instantane-

needle

time

driven

the insect

CHAP,

FEROCITY OF THE SEROOT FIT.

viii.]

exerts every muscle of

wings as

its

it

depth.
diately,

and continues

time

this is

numbers,

body by buzzing with

its

buries the instrument to

The blood

flow

to

damp

kinds

of

nights

are

of

the

rainy

vermin.
cool

and

flies

in great

their

eggs

heat of

summer

which

breeds

hot

season

season,

the

During

greatest

a considerable

would lay

of which

upon the wound.

" I much
prefer the intense
the

for

an attraction to other

many

its

wound imme-

from the

starts

185

delightful,

there

is

to
all

the

not one

drop of dew, and we live entirely in the open

air beneath the shade of a tree in the day, and
under a roof of glittering stars at night. The guns
never rust, although lying upon the ground, and we
are as independent as the antelopes of the desert,

bush affording a home within

its

any

limit of shadow.

During the rainy season hunting and travelling

would be equally impossible the rifles would con;

The mud

most places kneedeep, and a malignant fever would shortly settle

The rains cease early in September,
the hunter.
stantly miss

after

bath

fire.

which we are
until

the

is

in

expect a complete vapourof October, by which time

to

end

have evaporated the moisture

from the sodden earth ; that interval will be the

the

fiery

sun will

most unhealthy
"

As

season.

can depend upon three

months' periodical rain, from the middle of June
until

this fertile country

September, there

is

no

reason for unproduc-

CROSS THE ATBARA.

186
tiveness

would produce a

it

[CHAP.

revenue

large

if

vm.
in

industrious hands.
"

For many days past we have

seen large herds of giraffes and many antelopes on
the opposite side of the river, about two miles
2.

September

on the

distant,

the

valley

on

hazards

level

across

the

river.

and

hunters

hippopotami

swim

although the
harder soil of

descending a short distance

and

flats,

sheik of the village

could

the

prefer

descend,

was tempted

at

all

Accordingly preparaThe
for a start.

immediately made

were

tions

to

table-land,

me by

giraffes tantalized

the

not

This day a herd of twenty-eight

the valley slopes.

below

the

appeared

antelopes

the Atbara, into which

of

apparently dared

giraffes

remained

but

borders

by

like otters,

were

several of the Arabs

profession

these

fellows

and, despite the crocodiles,

they seemed as much at home in the water as on

"We prepared an impromptu raft. My angarep
land.
(bedstead)

were

was

inflated,

quickly

and

inverted

lashed,

six

water-skins

three on either side.

shallow packing-case, lined with

tin,

containing

A
my

guns, was fastened in the centre of the angarep, and

two tow-lines were attached to the front part of

the

raft,

by which swimmers were

the river.

Two men were

to

to

draw

it

across

hang on behind, and,

keep it straight in the rapid current.

"The Arabs were full of mettle, as their minds

if possible,

were

fixed

people,

upon

including

giraffe

my

venison.

wife,

number of

climbed upon the mos-

CHAP,

THE IMPROMPTU RAFT.

viii.]

obtain

to

platforms,

quito

187

view

good

of

the

and we quickly carried our raft to

There was not much delay
the edge of the river.
projected hunt,

in the launch.

stepped carefully into

shaped case and

either side,

and

my

was ready

down, with a rifle on

ammunition at the bottom of

us

away

at

a great

pace,

much trouble, as we
round when we should have
upon

logs

fine style,

we went

The
car-

and the whirlpools

several times waltzed

preferred

a straight

towing swimmers being well mounted

of light

and

Off

of an

in case

nearly five miles an hour,

caused us

course, but the

thus,

for a swim.

current, running at

ried

coffin-

squatted

the tin-lined waterproof case

upset, I

my

after

ambatch-wood,

some

difficulty

swam across in
we arrived at the

opposite bank, and scrambled through thick bushes,

upon our hands and knees, to the summit.
"

For about two miles breadth on

river the valley

gullies

is

rough broken ground,

and ravines sixty or seventy

torrents, bare sandstone

of

this side of the

rocks,

grassy knolls, and long strips of

feet

bushy

mimosa

fall

of

deep, beds
crags,

fine

covert, form-

ing a most perfect locality for shooting.

"

had observed by the

telescope that the giraffes

were standing as usual upon an elevated position,

from whence they could keep a good look-out. I
knew it would be useless to ascend the slope direct,
as their long necks give these animals

similar to that of the

fore,

although

we had

man
the

an advantage

at the mast-head; there-

wind

in our favour,

we

STALKING GIRAFFES.

188

should have been observed.

to

make

a great circuit

[CHAP.

vm.

determined

I therefore

of about five

miles,

and

thus to approach them from above, with the advanof the

tage
the

It was
ground for stalking.
of uneven country
by clambering

broken

perfection

broken

wading shoulder-deep through muddy

gullies, sliding down the steep ravines, and winding
through narrow bottoms of high grass and mimosas
for

cliffs,

nellut

many

superb

(Ant.

Bubalis),

we

(Ant.
at

of the high table-land,

had

first

noticed

disturbed

and

strepsiceros),

upon the verge

with

which

of

the

neck of

one of these splendid animals about half a mile

tant

upon

my

left,

little

telescope.

I distinguished the tall

tetel

length arrived at the point

the giraffes

Almost immediately

we

during which

about two hours,

below^-the t^ble-land

dis;

it

was feeding on the bushes, and I quickly discovered

I was
several others near the leader of the herd.
not far enough advanced in the circuit that I had
intended to bring me exactly above them, therefore I
turned sharp to
half circle,
herd, as I

and

my

right, intending to

to arrive

was now

to

windward

and upon

herd had fed down

two hundred yards

having moved from

a short

on the leeward side of the

completed, but I had marked

point of cover,

make

this I fortunately

thick

arrival I

bush as

my

found that the

wind, and that I was within

of

the great bull sentinel that,

former position, was now

standing directly before me. I laid down quietly behind the bush with my two followers, and anxiously
his

WITHIN RANGE.

.CIIAP. viii.]

watched

189

the

great leader, momentarily expecting

would get my wind. It was shortly joined
by two others, and I perceived the heads of several
lower down the incline, that were now feedgiraffes

that

it

ing on their

was teasing them, and

fly

birds were

The

to the higher ground.

way

seroot

remarked that several

about their heads, sometimes

fluttering

perching upon their noses and catching the fly that

attacked their nostrils, while the giraffes appeared
relieved

their

by

attentions

these were

a peculiar

that attacks the domestic

animals,

and not only relieves them of vermin, but

the flesh, and establishes dangerous sores.

eats into

of

species

bird

puff

of wind now gently fanned the back of my neck

it was cool and delightful, but no sooner did I feel

the refreshing breeze than I

our

afterwards, the

heads

the

direct to

scent

still

three

higher

great black

eyes

in

knew

giraffes.

grand
the

upon the

would convey
A few seconds

it

obelisks

threw

their

and

fixing

their

air,

spot from

which the

danger came, they remained as motionless as though

From their great height they
carved from stone.
could see over the bush behind which

we were

lying

at some paces distant, and although I do not think

they could distinguish us to be men, they could
see enough to convince them of hidden enemies.

"The

attitude of fixed attention

and

surprise

of

the three giraffes was sufficient warning for the rest of

the herd,

who immediately

filed

up from the lower

ground, and joined their comrades.

All

now

halted,

190

THE FIRST RUSH OF THE HERD.

and gazed

stedfastly

superb tableau

our

in

direction,

[CHAP. vin.

forming a

their beautiful mottled skins glanc-

ing like the summer coat of a thorough-bred horse.,

the orange-coloured statues standing out in high
relief from a back-ground of dark-green mimosas.
"
This beautiful picture soon changed I knew that
;

chance of a close

my

shot

was

as

hopeless,

they

would presently make a

rush, and be off; thus I

determined to get the first start. I had previously
studied the ground, and I concluded that they

would push forward at right angles with my

tion, as they had thus ascended the hill, and

posithat,

on reaching the higher ground, they would turn to

the right, in order to reach an immense tract of
high grass, as level as a billiard-table, from which
no danger could approach them unobserved.
"

with a gentle movement of

I accordingly

directed

my

sudden rush forward at

herd

shambling

full

along

whisking their long

me, and

follow

people to

tails

tremendous

me

two hundred

pace,

above their hind-quarters,

and taking exactly the direction

they offered

made a

Off went the

speed.

at

my hand

had anticipated,

a shoulder shot at a

yards' distance.

into a deep hole concealed

little

within

Unfortunately, I

by the high

grass,

fell

and

resumed the hunt they had

increased their distance, but I observed the leader

by the time

that

turned sharp to the right, through some low mimosa

bush, to

made

make

direct

for

the open

a short cut obliquely at

my

table-land.

best speed,

and

THE RETREAT OF THE

CHAP. VIIL]

only halted

by

when

my

altering

saw that

GIRAFFES.

should lose ground

short,

Stopping

position.

191

was

they filed by me at
speed, within about one hundred
I had my old Ceylon No. 1

exactly opposite the herd

right angles in full

as

and eighty yards.

double rifle, and I took a steady shot at a large
the satisfactory sound of the
dark-coloured bull
:

ball

upon

his hide

was followed almost immediately

by his blundering forward for about twenty yards,

and falling heavily in the low bush. I heard the
crack

of

the

ball

my

of

left-hand

barrel

another fine beast, but no effects followed.

me

quickly gave

and

the

single

singled out a fine

on his knees to the

upon

Bacheet

2-ounce Manton

dark-coloured bull,

rifle,

who

but recovering, hobbled off disabled, apart from the herd, with a foreshoulder.
leg broken just below the
Eeloading
fell

shot,

immediately, I ran up to the spot, where I found

my first giraffe lying dead, with the ball clean

through both shoulders the second was standing

about one hundred paces distant upon my approach
he attempted to move, but immediately fell, and
;

was

despatched

by

my

eager

Arabs.

followed

no purpose, through
the herd
deep clammy ground and high grass, and I returned
for about a mile to

to our game.

"

These were

my

and

admired them

me

with a hunter's pride and

but mingled with a feeling of pity for

as they lay before

satisfaction,

first giraffes,

such beautiful and utterly helpless creatures.

The

DEATH OF THE

192

GIRAFFES.

[CHAP,

vm.

although from sixteen to twenty feet in height,

perfectly defenceless, and can only trust to the

giraffe,
is

swiftness of

its

of vision, for

animal

this

and the extraordinary power

means of protection. The eye of

pace,

its

most beautiful exaggeration of

the

is

that of the gazelle, while the colour of the reddish-

orange hide, mottled with darker spots, changes the

tints of the skin with the differing rays of light,
according to the muscular movement of the body.
No one who has merely seen the giraffe in a cold

can form the least idea of

climate

native land.

its

it

By

of the animals,

one

beauty in
the time that we had skinned

it

was nearly

its

six o'clock,

and

to hurry forward to reach the river

was necessary

we

arranged some thorny

boughs over the bodies, to which we intended to
return on the following morning.
before

"

night;

When

therefore

about half

way

to the river, as

we were

through grass about four feet high, three

tetel bounded from a ravine, and, passing directly
before us, gave me a splendid shot at about sixty

passing

The Ceylon

yards.

No.

10

struck

the

foremost

through the shoulder, and it fell dead after running

a few yards. This was also my first tetel (AnteBubalis)

lope

red coat

was

was in splendid condition, the

satin, and the animal would weigh

it

like

about five hundred pounds live weight.

"

had made very

three out of

successful shots, having

four at large

game

lighted the Arabs, and was very

bagged

this perfectly de-

satisfactory to myself,

I
S

PASSAGE OF THE RIVER.

CHAP. VIIL]

was quite aware that

us I

my men

1<K3

would be only too

accompany me upon future

willing to
"

excursions.

was quite dark before we reached the river

we had been much delayed by repeated falls into
deep holes, and over hidden stones thus I was well
It

the

having crossed

manner

similar

more

myself once

find

to

satisfied

as

after

darkness, in a

river, in

pitchy

before.

Every person in

had had a good view of the

two giraffes had been seen to

village

as

home

at

the

stalk, therefore,
fall,

Arabs

the

were waiting on the bank in expectation of meat.

"

September

crossed the river

twenty men, some swimming with

and others supported by logs of
skins,

about

with

inflated

ambatch.
a

to

This morning

3.

this is

diers to cross

of

which

to

pole

attached

number

swimmers were holding on

four

inflated

an excellent plan
river,

as

were

girbas

for assisting sol-

they can land together

in parties, instead of singly,

with their

guns dry,

should the opposite bank be occupied by an enemy.

I

sat in

my

gun-case,

with the two

used yesterday, in addition to the

heaps

of

clothes

swimmers formed
dent, I

my

had taken

pletely at

in

my
off

sandals

cargo

my

ammunition within an

in his car

my

and

rifles

little

belonging

that

Fletcher
to

I
;

the

while in case of acci-

belt

and

inflated

shoes,

and

tied

skin.

Neptune
drawn by dolphins was not more comhome than I in my gun-case, towed by

fish-like

hippopotami hunters.

several strong

whirlpools,

After pirouetting

during which time

THE GIRAFFE SENTRY.

J91

[CHAP. vin.

crowd of women on the Son side of the

from
"

crocodiles,

We

were

river,

Allah 'and the Prophet to protect us

screaming to

we

at length arrived.

took a direct course towards the animals I

had shot on the previous evening, meeting with no

game except a

large

(Cynocephali) until
,

dog -faced baboons

of

troop

we reached

the body of the tetel

(Antelope Bubalis), which lay undisturbed ; leaving

people to flay it carefully, so that the skin should
serve as a water

or

we continued our

corn sack,

path towards the dead giraffes.

"I had not proceeded far, before

saw, at about

a mile distant, a motionless figure, as though carved

from

red

granite

this

felt

sure

was a

acting as sentry for another party that

view

in

dead

therefore

giraffes,

sent

my men

servant Bicharn,*

who was

a good

a couple of additional men,

the

giraffe.

by

while, accompanied

It

was impossible

giraffe

was not yet

on towards- the
Florian's black

sportsman, and

endeavoured to stalk
to obtain a favourable

wind, without exposing ourselves upon

flat

ground,

where we should have been immediately perceived;

I therefore arranged that my men should make a
long circuit and drive the

giraffe,

endeavour

This

to

intercept

it.

while

plan failed

would
;

but

shortly after the attempt, I observed a herd of about

* This faithful
black, a native of the

White Nile

regions, sub-

sequently became my servant, and for four years accompanied us

honestly and courageously through all our difficulties to the Albert
N'yanza.

A DIFFICULT

CHAP, vni.]

STALK.

105

a hundred of these splendid creatures, browsing on

the mimosas about half a mile distant.
For upwards
of three hours I employed every artifice

a shot, but to no purpose, as upon

my

to

obtain

approach to

within a quarter of a mile, they invariably

chose

open ground, leaving a sentry posted behind the

herd, while

two or three kept

No

advance.

animal

is

look-out well

in

so difficult to approach as the

however, by great patience and caution, I

succeeded in reaching a long and deep ravine, by
which I hoped to arrive within a close shot, as
giraffe

many

herd were

of the

table-ground,

from which

standing upon the

this

natural trench

level

sud-

denly descended. I believe I should have arrived

within fifty yards of the herd by this admirable
approach, had it not been for the unlucky chance
that brought

me

with two

vis-a-vis

to

my

that

by

attention of the giraffes.

galloping off attracted the

To add

tetel,

misfortune, after a long and tedious

crawl on hands and knees up the narrow and steep

extremity of the gully, just as

raised

my

head

above the edge of the table-land, expecting to see

the giraffes within fifty paces, I found three gazelles
of me, while three

feeding within ten yards

nificent giraffes

and
"

fifty

magwere standing about one hundred

yards distant.

Off bounded the gazelles the instant that

we were

they of course gave the alarm immediately,

and away went the giraffes, but I took a quick shot
at the great leader as he turned to the right, and
perceived

THE SEROOT FLY TAKES POSSESSION.

196

he staggered a few paces and

vm.

[CHAP.

headlong into the

bush.
Hurrah! for the Ceylon No. 10! however,
neither the second barrel, nor a shot with the Manton
fell

was a glorious sight

to see the herd of upwards of a hundred of these
superb animals close up at the alarm of the shots, and
2 -ounce, produced any

away in
mimosa bush

pelt

a dense

effect.

It

body through the dark green

that hardly reached to their shoulders

but pursuit was

My giraffe was not quite

dead, and, the throat having been cut by the Arabs
and Eicharn, we attempted to flay our game this
useless.

The

was

was

seroot

in
simply impossible.
fly
swarms about the carcase, thousands were buzzing
about our ears and biting like bull-dogs the blood
:

was streaming from our necks, and, as I wore no

I never
sleeves, my naked arms suffered terribly.
although we had
could not take possession
it

saw such an extraordinary

killed our giraffe,

we

sight

was no wonder that camels and

all

domestic animals

were killed by this horrible plague, the only wonder

was the possibility of wild animals resisting the

The long

attack.

tails of

the giraffes are admirable

they would be of little service

determined and bloodthirsty enemy
against such a
as the seroot.
They were now like a swarm of

fly-whippers,

bees,

but

and we

immediately

by lighting
windward of the

scourge,
to

briskly,

we

piled

made war upon

the

few

feet

several fires within a

giraffe

when

the sticks blazed

green grass upon the tops, and

a
the enemy.
quickly produced smoke that vanquished

CHAP,

was now about 3

It

had been
I

GIRAFFE STEAKS.

vmj

197

and intensely hot

P.M.

in constant exereise since 6 A.M. therefore

determined upon luncheon under the shade of a

welcome mimosa, upon which

my

water-skin to

We

cool.

had already hung

cut some long thin

and lighted a

of flesh from the giraffe,

strips

wood

of dry babanoose
species

wood

of

is

burns like a torch

colour and grain

it

it is

This

expressly for cooking.

is

intensely

similar to

festoons of giraffe flesh were

and

inflammable,

exceedingly

and

hard,

lignum

in

The

vitse.

hung upon forked

driven into the ground to leeward of the

fire

sticks,

while

fire,

thrown upon the embers by my

men, who, while the food was roasting, employed
themselves in skinning the animal, and in eating the
others were simply

flesh

The meat was quickly

raw.

roasted,

and was

the best I have ever tasted, fully corroborating the

had frequently heard of giraffe meat from

It would be natural to suppose
the Arab hunters.
praises I

that the long legs of this animal

perfection

of

marrow

bones,

but

would furnish the

these

are

appointment, as the bones of the giraffe are

like those of the

elephant and hippopotamus

dissolid,

the

long tendons of the legs are exceedingly prized by

the Arabs in lieu of thread for sewing leather, also
for guitar strings.

"After luncheon,

and

strolled

down

took

my

to the spot

little

Fletcher

from whence

rifle,

had

fired the shot, as I

wished to measure the distance,

but no sooner had

arrived at the

place than

A HUNT FOR THE

198

TETEL.

[CHAP. vin.

observed at about a quarter of a mile below me,

was standing on the

one of the numerous knolls, evidently

in the valley, a fine tetel

summit

of

it

driven from the high grass

it

very carefully until

by the
arrived

flies.

within

stalked

about

hundred yards, and just as I reached the stem of

a tree that I had resolved upon as my covering-point,
the tetel got my wind, and immediately bounded off,
receiving the bullet in the

moment.

feet,

and went

it,

just as

it

missed

it,

at

people,

Eicharn,

my

same

the

and

fell,

suddenly sprang to
rate

ran
its

upon three

as I fired a quick shot

disappeared in the thick bushes.

it

my

but

it

at a surprising

off

I believed I

legs.

for

few bounds

After a

forward to secure

right hip

Whistling

was now joined by Bacheet and

men remaining with the giraffe.

miles we followed on the track through

other

For about four

the broken valley of the Atbara, during which

we

several times disturbed the tetel, but could not obtain

a good shot, on account of the high grass and thick

bushes.

moment

Several times I tried a snap shot, as for a

I caught sight of its red hide galloping

through the bush, but as it ran down wind I had

no chance of getting close to my game. At length,
after

following

presently heard

ravine

made

a short cut,

this

down

grassy ravine,

pelting through the bushes

it

a bend to the right, therefore,

I

of the tetel as

me

rapidly

arrived just
it

in time to

the

by taking

catch

sight

passed over an open space below

time the

little

Fletcher bagged him.

On

CHAP,

FLOATING MEAT ACROSS A R1FER.

viii.]

examination
I

had

fired

found that

fired five shots,

had struck

it

199
four times.

but as three of those had been

almost at random, when the animal was in

full

speed through the bushes, one had missed, and the

others were badly placed.

"Fortunately this long hunt had been in the

still more
direction of Sofi, to which we were near
;

met

shortly

wards the

we

after

fortunately,

my

first

village,

marked

had

the

spot,

we

party of Arabs returning to-

heavily laden with* giraffe's

and the hide of one that

had

killed

It appeared that during the night, lions

had completely devoured one of the

flesh,

yesterday.

and hyaenas
giraffes,

not

even leaving a vestige of skin or bone, but the

immediate neighbourhood of the spot where it lay,

had been trampled

who had left their
robbery

the hide

into

mud by

footprints

and bones

as

the savage crowd

witnesses

to

the

had evidently been

dragged away piecemeal.

"

On

arrival at the river

we

w^ere all

busy in pre-

paring for the passage with so large a quantity of

The water-skins for the raft were quickly
meat.
inflated, and I learnt from the Arabs an excellent
contrivance for carrying a quantity of flesh across

a river, without

its

becoming sodden.

The skin

of

was nearly as capacious as that of an

Alderney cow this had been drawn off in the usual
The Arabs immanner, so as to form a sack.
the

tetel

mediately

mouth

proceeded

of a bag,

and

to

tie

up the neck

like

the

to secure the apertures at the

200

BUOY FOR MEN AND CARGO.

[CHAP. viu.

when

was con-

knees in like manner

cluded, the skin

became an immense

being at the aperture

10

No.

shoulders of the

gone

completely

by inserting a stone into

much

through

them through.

by the hand from the

it

was impossible

These stones were inserted

from the inside of the sack

they were then grasped

and pulled forward,

outside,

while a tight ligature was

made behind each

which

the

stopped

effectually

the

either hole, of a size so

larger than the aperture, that

to squeeze

The

was dexterously performed

this

mouth

thus the two holes in the hide

tetel,

stopping

required

sack, the

at the hind-quarters.

left

had

bullet

this operation

holes.

stone,

The skin of

was thus converted into a waterproof bag,

which was packed a quantity of flesh sufficient

the tetel
into
to

fill

two-thirds of

mouth were

then

capacity

carefully

Thus

secured by tying.

drawn

filled

the power

the inflation completed, this

of flotation

The skin

This plan

men

is

not only can the

so

great, that about a

when we launched

it

and

to

in the

well worthy of the attention of

troops,

without bullocks

was

to the legs of the tetel,

each other's shoulders,

military

tied.

looked like an exaggerated water-skin

men hung on

river.

and

carefully packed, one of the

was suddenly twisted round and

dozen

together,

by blowing through the tube formed by

the skin of the limb

thus

the edges of the

was untied, and the whole skin was

foreleg ligatures
inflated

its

when on

in the

men

service,

absence

are seldom

of boats or rafts

be thus safely conveyed across

CHAP.

SCARE THE CROCODILES.

viii.J

201

the river, but the ammunition can be packed within

and

the skins, wrapped up in straw,

will be

kept

perfectly dry.
"

The Arabs were much

was perfectly dark when we had comour preparations, and they feared that the

night, as

pleted

smell

afraid of crocodiles this

it

of

large a

so

the hide of

especially

would

towed,

attract
fired

accordingly I

raw

of

quantity

must be

the giraffe, which

these

beasts
shots

several

to

more

flesh,

the

party

alarm them,

to

usual

men plunged into the

yelling of the women on

the opposite

Fires

had been lighted

us,

and the

to direct

river amidst

safely across.
"
The sport

upon the Abyssinian

had been most satisfactory, and
the

my

opportunity to change

first

and

all

the
side.

passed

side of the river

I

resolved

upon

quarters, and, to

form an encampment upon that bank of the Atbara

until the proper season should arrive for travelling.
I

had

three

killed

two excursions.
been

able

to

and

giraffes

two

who was

Florian,

accompany me

in only

tetel
ill,

although

had not
he

had

been shooting in this neighbourhood for two years

he had never killed a giraffe.
This want of success

was owing

were not

to the inferiority of his weapons, that

adapted to

shooting

at a

range

morning about

fifty

Arabs

correct

exceeding a hundred yards.

"On

the

following

crossed

the

river

the

flesh

of

with the intention

the giraffe,

of

bringing
but they returned crest-

THE LIONS DEVOUR THE GIRAFFE.

02
in

fallen

as

evening,

I therefore

vm.

and

lions

and nothing was

resolved not to shoot again until

my new camp

should be settled in

side

the

again

had been before them,

hysenas
left,

the

[CHAP.

of the river, as

animals

of these beautiful

on the other

was a wasteful expenditure

it

unless

the

flesh

could

be preserved.
"
I

The rainy season was drawing

longed to quit the dulness of

"September
eighteen

feet,

The

12.

now

to be

has
of

last

week.

seen

daily,

decreased during the

diles are

Sofi.

river

amount

the

as

a close, and

to

fallen

nearly

has

rain

Immense

much
croco-

basking upon the

One monster in particular, who

muddy banks.
well known to the Arabs as having devoured
woman a few months ago, invariably sleeps upon

is

a
a

small island up the river.

"This evening
of

east side

counted seven -elephants on the

the river on the table-lands.

"

To-day the Arabs kept one of their holy feasts

accordingly, a sheep was slaughtered as a sacrifice,

with an accompaniment of music and singing,

i.e.

howling to several guitars.

"The Arab system

Should

demanded,

friend
or

of

an

offering

be dangerously

should

they slaughter an ox

any

if

calamity

they possess

or goat in the absence of a larger

owner of the beast

to

the

assembled

sells

party,

ill,

is

peculiar.

or

rain

befall
it,

be

them,

or a sheep

animal, but the

the meat in small portions

and

the

whole

affair

of

ARAB

CHAP, viu.]

resolves

sacrifice

into a

itself

203

MUSIC.
feast

thus having

themselves with good meat, they feel satisfied that they have made a religious sacrifice, and

filled

they

the

expect

beneficial

and singing that

music

simply abominable.

The guitar

results.

the

attend

occasion are

although beloved

Music,

dancing by both the savage and

like

civilized, varies in

character according to the civilization of the race;

that which
discord

is

the

to

uneducated

agreeable to the

nerves

refined

is

educated.

the

of

ear,

The untuned ear of the savage, can no more enjoy

the tones of civilized music than his palate would
relish

the

cuisine.

As the stomach

raw meat and

animal, so does

his

and

music

most common
large

gourd,

stretched

to

that

turtle

skin,

that

from the
coarse

equally

The guitar

the

of either

prefers the

other.

all

of

an untaiined

his

dc

chef

hot

taken

prefer

made

is

or

ear

Arab

of the

liver

reeking

discordant

a French

dishes of

elaborate

over

of

of

shell

this

large

a
is

fish

being preferred
through this, two sticks are fixed
about two feet three inches in length ; the ends
;

of

these

are fastened to a cross piece

are secured the

strings

these

are

upon which

stretched

over

a bridge similar to those of a violin, and are either

tightened or relaxed by rings of

upon the

cross

by the hand, and

of

an

the strain

these

piece
retain

their

upon the strings.

Arab more than

to

sit

waxed rag

fastened

are

turned

rings

position

in

spite

Nothing delights
idly in his hut and

ARRANGE TO CROSS THE

204

strum

this

RIVER.

[cifAp.

vm.

wretched instrument from morning until

night."

was thoroughly tired

mined to move my party
on the uninhabited side
I

ceased,

therefore

tent at night,

some

mimosas

prepared for a

we

and

of

Sofi,

and

across the river to

the

rains

had

deter-

camp
almost

should be able to live in the

to

by
move.

form a shady nook beneath

day;

accordingly

we

busily

CHAPTER

IX.

FORM A RAFT WITH THE SPONGING BATH.

ON

the 15 tli September the entire male population

of Sofi turned out to assist us in crossing the river, as

I

had promised them a

certain

sum should

the

move

be effected, without the loss or destruction of baggage.

had arranged a very superior raft to that I had

formerly used, as I now had eight inflated skins atI

tached to the bedstead, upon which

circular

lashed our large

sponging bath, which, being three feet eight

inches in diameter,

and of the best

description,

would

be perfectly safe for my wife, and dry and commodious

In a very short time the whole of
for the luggage.
our effects were carried to the water's edge, and the

The rifles were the

passage of the river commenced.
first to cross with Bacheet, while the water-tight iron
box that contained the gunpowder was towed like a
Four hippopotami hunters
pinnace behind the raft.
were harnessed as tug steamers, while a change of

swimmers waited

to

relieve

them

every alternate

answered admirably, and would

The
easily support about three .hundred pounds.
power of flotation of the sponging bath alone, I had

voyage.

The

raft

THE IMPROMPTU FERRY.

206

would

proved

hundred

support

[CHAP. ix.

and

ninety

pounds, thus the only danger in crossing, was the

chance

of

dash

making a

crocodile

either

at

the inflated skins in mistake for the body of a man,

swimmers themselves.

or at the
saries

were safely transported, with the

personal

before

baggage,

number

of

the

summit

feet

above the river

here

went down

arrival.

My

wife

and

the

grass

of a beautiful plateau on

soil

we

some mimosas of dense

order, I

cleared

quickly

of a craggy sandstone
;

tents

myself, with

crossed

We

Arabs.

from the hard pebbly

to

All the usual neces-

cliff,

about eighty

pitched the tents, close

foliage,

and

all

being in

to the river to receive the next

now came

across

the ferry, and

means of transport succeeded,

that by the evening, the whole of our stores and
baggage had been delivered without the slightest
so perfectly

had

this

damage, with the exception of a very heavy load

had caused the sponging-bath to ship

The only
a sea during a strong squall of wind.
person who had shown the least nervousness in
trusting his precious body to my ferry-boat, was
of corn, that

Mahomet

the

dragoman, who, having been simply

accustomed to the grand vessels of the Nile, was

not prepared to risk himself in a voyage across the
Atbara in a sponging-bath. He put off the desperate

attempt until the

last

moment, when every other

party had crossed

he hoped
that a wreck would take place before his turn should
arrive, and thus spare him the painful necessity, but

person of

my

I believe

CHAP,

ACHMET

ix.]

when

at length the

IS

TEMPTED BY SATAN.

moment

awful

assisted carefully into the bath

by

207

arrived,

he was

his servant

Achmet

and a number of Arabs, all of whom were delighted

at his imbecility.
Perched nervously in the centre
of the bath, and holding on tight

was towed across with

while

his travelling

Achmet remained

last

either side, he

bag of

clothes,

in charge of his best clothes

and sundry other personal

the

by

effects,

cargo across the

that were to form

It

ferry.

appeared that

Achmet, the dearly beloved and affectionate relative

of Mahomet, who had engaged to serve him for simple
money, was suddenly tempted by
Satan, and seeing that Mahomet and the entire party
were divided from him and the property in his charge,

love

instead

by a

river

of

two hundred yards wide, about

deep, with a powerful current, he

to bolt with the valuables

made up

and

fled

much

Achmet turned

east,

towards the west.

by the

frightened

his

mind

therefore while

in a nervous state in the ferry-bath,

towards the

forty feet

Mahomet,
was being towed

in another direction

Mahomet having been

nautical effort he

had been

forced to make, was in an exceedingly bad temper

upon the

arrival

on the opposite bank, and having

at length succeeded in climbing

in shoes that

were about four

up the

steep ascent,

sizes too large for

him,
he arrived on the lofty plateau of our camp, and
doubtless would like ourselves have been charmed

with the view of the noble river rushing between

the cliffs of white sandstone, had he only seen Achmet
his fond relative

with his

effects

on the opposite bank.

MAHOMErS RELATIFE

208

Mahomet

ABSCONDS.

strained his eyes, but

optical delusion

neither

blank was no

the

Achmet nor

[CHAP. ix.

his effects

weiv

there.

The Arabs, who hated the unfortunate Ma-

homet

for

overbearing conduct, now

with the suggestion that Achmet had

his

comforted him

general

run away, and that his only chance was to re-cross

the river and give chase.
Mahomet would not have
ventured upon another voyage to the other side and
back again, for the world, and as to giving chase in
boots

(highlows)

strings,

that

four

sizes

would have

too

been

big,

as

and without
absurd

as

to

employ a donkey to catch a horse. Mahomet could

do nothing but rush frantically to the very edge of
the cliff, and scream and gesticulate to a crowd of

Arab women who had passed the day beneath the

shady trees by the Faky's grave, watching our passage
of the Atbara.
Beating his own head and tearing his
hair were always the safety valves of

but as hair

is

not of that

Mahomet's

mushroom growth

rage,

that re-

appears in a night, he had patches upon his cranium

as bald as a

pumpkin

attendant upon losses

tore a

from the constant plucking,

of temper; he now not only

shell,

few extra locks from his head, but he shouted

out a tirade of abuse towards the far-distant Achmet,

calling

him a

"

son of a dog," cursing his father, and

paying a few compliments to the memory of his

mother, which if only half were founded upon fact

were sad blots upon the morality of the family to

which Mahomet himself belonged, through his close
relationship to Achmet, whom he had declared to

CHAP

END OF THE KAINY SEASON.

ix.]

be his

mother's brother's

cousin's

209

sister's

mother's

son.

A heavy

shower of rain

fell

shortly after our

camp

was completed, when fortunately the baggage was

under cover

and

season,

this

proved to be the

from

moment

that

last rain of the

burning sun

the

sodden country, and rapidly dried up

The grass
not only the soil but all vegetation.
within a few days of the cessation of the rain
ruled the

assumed a tinge of yellow, and by the end of

October there was not a green spot to relieve the
eye from the golden blaze of the landscape, except
the patches of grass and reeds that sprang from

mud

banks of the retiring river. The climate

was exceedingly unhealthy, but we were fortunately
the

the

to

exceptions

of

inhabitants

Sofi

were

and although the

rule,

general

all

sufferers,

our

camp

had no

who

invalids, with the exception of Mahomet,

had upon one occasion so gorged himself

with half-putrid
It

sequence.

our

fish,

would

explorations

in

that he

be

nearly died

impossible

Base

the

until

should be sufficiently dry to burn

varieties

that

soil

of

ever since

it

stony

three barbed

the

plant

upon the

slopes

to

in

con-

commence
the

there were

grass

two

and hollows of the

Atbara valley had been a pest

as the head formed
had ripened

the

darts, these detached themselves from

with

such

facility,

the

that

slightest

touch was sufficient to dislodge them

they immediately pierced the clothes, from which they could
;

THE SEROOT FLY DISAPPEARS.

210

[CHAP. ix.

not be withdrawn, as the barbed heads broke

remained.
grass as

off

and

was simply impossible to walk in this

became ripe, without special protection

It
it

tanned some gazelle skins, with which

wife constructed stocking gaiters, to be drawn

I accordingly

my

over the foot and

thus fortified

'tied

above and below the knee

could defy the grass, and indulge in

shooting and exploring the neighbourhood until the

The high
grass upon the table-lands, although yellow, would
not be sufficiently inflammable until the end of Noseason should arrive for firing the country.

vember.

The numerous water-courses that drained the

lands during the rainy season, were

now

table-

No

dry.

sooner had the grass turned yellow, than the pest of

the

country, the seroot

presence

of this

insect

may

10th July to 10th October.

giraffes also left the

disappeared

fly,

thus the

be dated from

As

about

the fly vanished, the

By

neighbourhood.

a few days

exploration, I found that the point of land from the

junction of the Settite river with the Atbara, formed

a narrow peninsula which was no wider than eight

thus the herds
encampment

miles across from our

of

game

retreating from the south before the attacks

of the seroot, found themselves driven into

de-sac

the

of land between

the

cul-

broad

upon
strip
and deep rivers the Settite and Atbara, which in the

rainy season they dared not cross.

All this country

being uninhabited, there were several varieties of game

at all seasons, but the three rainy months insure a

THE

CHAP, ix.]

" TILL."

good supply of elephants and

21

giraffes

these retreat

about thirty miles farther south, when permitted by

the cessation of the flies to return to their favourite
haunts.

My

camp was

was protected
left

in a very

in

front

commanding

position, as

it

by the Atbara, and on the

by a perpendicular ravine about eighty

feet deep,

bottom of which flowed the rivulet called by

"
"
the Arabs the
Till
this joined the river immeat the

diately below our plateau.

On

and rugged

with rocks of the whitest

incline covered

our right was a steep

sandstone, through which ran veins of rich iron ore

from four to

feet

five

width.

in

siderable quantity of fossil

wood

found a con-

in the sandstone,

and

had previously discovered on the Sofi side of the

river, the fossil stem of a tree about twelve feet long
I

the

grain appeared

to

be exceedingly

close,

but

could not determine the class to which the tree had

belonged.

As

the Atbara had fallen to the level of the small

tributary, the Till, that stream

and the

fish that

inhabited

its

during the rainy season, were

parent

number

river.

At

the

mouth

was nearly exhausted,

deep and shady waters

now

fast retiring to the

of the

stream were a

of rocks, that, as the water of the Atbara

retreated, daily increased in size

these were evidently

blocks that had been detached from the

walled in the

Till.

As we were now

cliffs

that

entirely de-

pendent upon the rod and the rifle for the support
of our party, I determined to try for a fish, as I felt
P 2

PREPARATIONS FOR FISHING.

212

quite certain that

would

be

some big fellows

waiting

to

in the

the

receive

[CHAP. ix.

main

small

fry

river

that

were hurrying away from the exhausted waters of

the

Till.

had a good supply of tackle, and I chose a beautifully straight and tapering bamboo that had been
I

brought down by the river floods. I cut off the large

brass ring from a game-bag, which I lashed to the
end of my rod ; and having well secured my largest

upwards of 200 yards of the

winch, that carried

strongest line, I arranged to fish with a live bait

a set of treble hooks.

upon

Jn one of the rocks at the

water's edge, was a circular hole about three feet in

diameter and five or six feet deep

like

an

artificial

of natural boring

well,

by

but

it

this

appeared

was simply the

effect

the joint exertions of the strong-

current combined with hard sand and gravel.

This

had perhaps years ago settled in some slight hollow in

the rock, and had gradually worked out a deep well

by perpetual revolutions. I emptied this natural baitbox of its contents of sand and rounded pebbles, and
having thoroughly cleaned and supplied
water, I caught a large

number

it

with fresh

of excellent baits

by

emptying a hole in the Till these I consigned to my

some
aquarium. The baits were of various kinds
;

were small "boulti"

greater

(a species of perch),

number were young

fish of

but the

the Silurus species

these were excellent, as they were exceedingly tough

in the skin,

and

so

hardy in

constitution, that they

rather enjoyed the fun of fishing.

chose a

little

"THAT WAS A MONSTER!''

CHAP, ix.j

213

fellow about four inches in length to begin with,

and

hook under the back

fin.

delicately inserted

the

Gently dropping my alluring and lively little friend

in a deep channel between the rocks and the mouth
of the

interest, as

watched

Till,

carried

my

by the stream

corner of a large rock

with great

float

large

swept past the

it

the

that
open river
corner was the very place where, if I had been a big
fish, I should have concealed myself for a sudden rush
into

The

upon an unwary youngster.

large green float

sailed leisurely along, simply indicating,

by its uneasy
and now it
movement, that the bait was playing
passed the point of the rock and hurried round the
;

corner in the sharper current towards the open river.

Off

it

went

Down

dipped the tip of the rod with a

rush so sudden that the

don't

"

know

line

where, and broke

caught somewhere,

Well, that was a monster

recovered

was not

my

lost,

inglorious line

as

"
!

exclaimed, as

fortunately the float

had been carried away at

the main line
a few yards of this

as the hooks

the fastening to
I cut off,

it

had

partially lost its

strength from

frequent immersion.
I replaced the lost

the stoutest

my

hooks by a

gimp and

swivels,

still

larger set, with

and once more

I tried

fortune with a bait exactly resembling the

In a short time

had a brisk

run,

a fish of about twelve pounds

known by

the

blackish green

first

and quickly landed

this was a species

Arabs as the " bayard

back, the brightest

"
;

silver

it

has a

sides

and

THE "BAYARD?

214

with very peculiar back

belly,

[CHAP. ix.

fins,

that nearest to

the tail being a simple piece of flesh free from rays.

This fish has four long barbules in the upper jaw, and
two in the lower the air-bladder, when dried, forms
:

a superior quality of isinglass, and the flesh of this

I have frequently seen the bayard
fish is excellent,
I
sixty or seventy pounds' weight, therefore

was not

recommenced

fishing.

of

proud

my

Nothing large

catch,

and

could be tempted, and I only suc-

ceeded in landing two others of the same kind, one of

about nine pounds, the smaller about six. I resolved

upon

my

next

returned to

The

life

use a

much

larger bait,

camp with my fish for dinner.

at our new camp was charmingly

we were upon Abyssinian territory

country was uninhabited, we considered it

pendent
the

trial to

own.

Sofi that,

and

inde-

but, as

as our

had previously arranged with the sheik of

whenever the rifle should be successful and

could spare meat, I would hoist the English flag

upon my flagstaff thus I could at any time summon
I

a crowd of hungry visitors,

swim the

who were

ever ready to

and defy the crocodiles in the hope of

We were exceedingly comfortable,
obtaining flesh.
river

having a large stock of supplies

servants

we had

in addition to our

acquired a treasure in a nice old

woman, whom we had hired from the sheik at

a dollar per month to grind the corn. Masara (Sarah)

slave

was a dear

old creature, the

specimen of a good slave

most willing and obliging

and she was one of those

bright exceptions of the negro race that

would have

NASARA THE

CHAP. ix.J

SLAVE.

21 5

driven Exeter Hall frantic with enthusiasm.

old Masara

She had now

Poor

hands of a

fallen into the

kind mistress, and as we were improving in Arabic,

my wife used to converse with her upon the past and
present

had never been suggested to her

Masara had a weighty care her daily

the future

simple mind.

bread was provided

she require

it

money

had none, neither did

husband she could not have had, as a

slave has none, but

who purchase

she

is

common

the

property of

all

but poor Masara had a daughter, a

charmingly pretty girl of about seventeen, the offspring
of one of the old woman's Arab masters.
Sometimes
this girl

her

came

and we arranged the

and had her towed across

to see her mother,

bath on the inflated skins,

This was Masara's greatest happiness,

but her constant apprehension ; the nightmare of her

for a

life

few days.

was the

sold
possibility that her daughter should be

and parted from

The

her.

girl

was her only and

all

absorbing thought, the sole object of her affection

she was the motfn in her mother's long night of
:

were dark and hopeless.

The hearts of slaves are crushed and hardened by

slavery;

without her,

all

the constant pressure of the yoke

have

still

nevertheless

some

those holy feelings of affection that nature

has implanted in the

human mind

it is

the tearing

asunder of those tender chains that renders slavery

the horrible curse that

reduced to
"blessings

the

it

position

enjoyed

by

memories and obtuse

really

of

the

feelings.

is

human

animals,

brute

beings are

without the

creation

short

CROSS THE PENINSULA TO SETTITE.

Mahomet,

Masara,

[CHAT. ix.

Wat Gamma, and

Bacheet,

formed the establishment of Ehetilla, which was the

Arab name of our

sportsman, and was

when

me

shooting

Bacheet was an inveterate

locality.

my

constant and sole attendant

his great

desire wa,s to

accompany

when he promised

in elephant-hunting,

to carry

a trusty gun-bearer, and he

one of

my

vowed

that no animal should ever frighten him.

my

spare

rifles as

few extracts from

journal written at that

time will convey a tolerable idea of the place and

our employments.
"

September 23.

Started for the Settite river.

In

about four hours' good marching N.N.E. through a

country of grass and mimosa bush that forms the high
land between that river and the Atbara, I reached the

from the junction. The river is

about 250 yards wide, and flows through a broken
valley of innumerable hillocks and deep ravines of
Settite about a mile

about five miles in width, precisely similar in character to

that of the Atbara

denuded by the

rains,

and

was no

air stirring

like a burning-glass.

We

the

soil

having been

carried

of the river towards the Nile.

there

away by the floods

The heat was intense
;

a cloudless sky and a sun

saw

several nellut (Tauro-

tragus strepsiceros), but these superb antelopes were

too wild to

drew

near,

allow a close

approach.

and we had nothing

to eat,

The

evening-

when

nately I espied a fine black-striped gazelle

fortu-

(Gazella

Dorcas), and with tne greatest caution I stalked it to

within about a hundred paces, and made a successful

JUNGLE COOKING.

CHAP, ix.]

shot with the Fletcher

Thus provided, we

217

and secured our dinner.

rifle,

selected a steep sugarloaf-shaped

upon the peak of which we intended

hill,

We

night.

therefore cleared

away the

to pass the

grass, spread

fires, and prepared

for a bivouac.
Having a gridiron, and pepper and
salt, I made a grand dinner of liver and kidneys,

boughs upon the ground, lighted

my men

while

ate a great portion of the gazelle raw,

and cooked the remainder in

ner by simply laying
until

warmed

their usual careless

upon the

it

fire for

There

half through.

is

man-

a few seconds

nothing like a

a frying-pan is
good gridiron for rough cooking
good if you have fat, but without it, the pan is utterly
useless.
With a gridiron and a couple of iron skewers
;

man

is

independent
with
grilled
pepper and

the liver cut in strips and

are sublime,

if

simply arranged upon the skewer in

alternate pieces of liver

and kidney cut

and rubbed with

walnuts,

but kabobs

salt is excellent,

laid

garlic,

onions,

salt.

The skewers thus

either

upon the glowing

cayenne, black pepper, and

arranged should be

chopped

as small as

embers, or across the gridiron.

"

Not a man

closed his eyes that night

the dinner disagreed with

them

not that

but the mosquitoes

Lying on the ground, the smoke of the fires did not
protect us, we were beneath it, as were the mosquitoes
likewise

in fact the fires

added

our misery, as
thousands of flying
to

they brought new plagues in

bugs, with beetles of all sizes and kinds

coming

stupefied

in

the

smoke,

these, be-

tumbled clumsily

^ MISERABLE NIGHT.

218

[CHAP. ix.

upon me, entangling themselves in my long beard

and whiskers, crawling over my body, down my neck,
and up my sleeping drawers, until I was swarming
with them the bugs upon being handled squashed
;

lumps of

like

unbearable.

and emitted a perfume that was

The night seemed endless it was passed
butter,

in alternately walking to
left

and

with a towel, covering

case,

and gasping

for air

fro,

my

flapping right

and

head with a pillow-

through the button-hole, in

an atmosphere insufferably

sultry.

"

At length morning dawned, thank Heaven

I
made a cup of strong coffee, ate a morsel of dhurra
!

and

along the high ground parallel

with the course of the Settite river up stream.
"
After walking for upwards of four hours over

bread,

started

ground covered with tracks of giraffes, elephants,

and antelopes about a fortnight old, I saw four
tetel

(Antelope JBubalis), but I was unfortunate in

high grass. We had

been marching south-east, and as I intended to return to camp, we now turned sharp to the west.

my

shot at a long range

in

The country was beautiful, composed of alternate

At length I
glades, copses, and low mimosa forest.
espied the towering head of a giraffe at about half-

a mile distant

he was in the mimosa

forest,

and was

already speculating upon our party, which he had

quickly observed.

Leaving

my men

his attention, I succeeded in

in this spot to fix

making a good

within one hundred and twenty yards of him.

exactly facing me, and I waited for

him

stalk to

He was

to turn

and

SHOOT BADLY.

CHAP, ix.]

219

expose the flank, but he suddenly turned so quickly that

I

and he received the bullet in

lost the opportunity,

his

back as he started, at

moment

speed; for the

full

he reeled crippled among the mimosas, but, recoverI could not fire the left hand barrel
ing, he made off.

on account of the numerous trees and bushes.

men, and followed

my

his track,

upon

yards
but as this was directly in an op-

posite direction to that of

give
"

up the hunt.*
About an hour
the

of

barrels

we

although

my camp

later

little

hit

a
at

Fletcher,

was forced

tetel
full

to

with both

gallop

but

followed the blood-track for some dis-

we did not

tance,

hundred

a few

for

I called

recover

At

it

this

season

the

most places from seven to ten feet high,

and being trodden by numerous old tracks of animals it is difficult to find a wounded beast without
is

grass

in

The luck was against me

the assistance of a dog.

to-day

could

only

shoot

well

everything, but to bag nothing,

I killed

less night.

to

enough

owing

to a

hit

sleep-

a guinea-fowl to secure dinner

upon my return, and we at length reached the welcome Atbara within two miles of my head-quarters.

My men

made

a rush to the river, and threw them-

selves into the water,

as

all

were more or

less ex-

hausted by the intense heat of the long day's work

after a restless night.
I took a good drink through

my

gazelle

from

my
*

We

shank

neck

for

wear suspended
that purpose, and I went on

bone,

which

found the remains of the

giraffe a

few days

later.

FISHING IN THE ATBARA.

220
alone,

selves.

bathing party to refresh them-

my

leaving

reached the tent a

more than ten

after

burning sun.

[CHAI>. ix.

after four P.M.

little

hours' continual walking in the

almost red hot, but

felt

and clean linen being ready, thanks

preparation of my wife, I was quickly

down with

sat

"

my

to the careful

and

refreshed,

a lion's appetite to good curry and

and a cup of black

rice,

bath

my

coffee.

September 25. Having nothing to eat, I took

fishing-rod and strolled down to the river, and

chose

from

pound

for a live bait

aquarium a

my

of about half a

fish

dropped

this in

the river

about twenty yards beyond the mouth of the Till,

and allowed it to swim naturally down the stream
so

as to pass across the Till junction,

the deep channel between the rocks.

minutes

had no run

had twice

charming

when

just as

For about ten

the

that follows the

line,

to the soundness of

my

heavy

tackle,

rock,

tremendous .rush

with the

attack of a

my

had reached the

it

favourite turning-point at the extremity of a

away dashed

same

tried the

would admire

water without success, nothing

bait

and descend

fish.

Trusting

struck hard and

fixed my new acquaintance thoroughly, but off he

dashed down the stream for about fifty yards at

one rush, making for a

two
race.

rocks, through

narrow

which the stream ran

Should he pass

this channel, I

cut the line across the rock

the butt, I

held

channel between

like a mill-

knew he would

therefore, giving

him by main

force,

him

and by the

CHAP,

A GOOD RUN.

ix.]

great swirl in the water I

him

the surface

to

my

him,

saw that

but just as

221

was bringing

expected to see

having already appeared, away he

float

darted in another direction, taking sixty or 'seventy

I at once observed
yards of line without a check.
that he must

pass

for landing a

heavy

shallow sandbank

fish,

as he reached this spot,

therefore

and

favourable

checked him

followed

him down

the bank, reeling up line as I ran parallel with his

Now came

course.

the tug

of

war

knew my

hooks were good and the line sound, therefore I

was determined not to let him escape beyond the
favourable ground
that after

a great

much

and

put a strain upon him,

struggling brought to the surface

followed by a pair of broad

shovel- head,

silvery sides,

as I

Bacheet

water.

led

now

him gradually

cleverly

secured

and dragged him in triumph

gills,
This was a splendid bayard, at least
weight.
"
I

laid

covered

it

my

more

shallow

him by the
to

the shore.

forty pounds'

upon some green reeds, and

with the same cool material. I

prize

carefully

then replaced

into

my

bait

by a

lively fish,

and once

In a very short time I had

another run, and landed a small fish of about nine
tried the river.

pounds of the same

fish

of that size, I

Not wishing to catch

put on a large bait, and threw
species.

about forty yards into the river, well up the

stream, and allowed the float to sweep the water

it

in a half circle, thus taking the chance of different

ANOTHER MONSTER.

222

For about half an hour

distances from the shore.

nothing moved

was

just preparing to

when out rushed my

position,

I believe I

[CHAP. ix.

and

line,

alter

my

striking hard,

old

fixed the

gentleman himself, for I

had no control over him whatever holding him was
;

out

the

of

question

cntting them

hands,

was obliged

the

flew

line

through

the blood flowed,

till

own way this

when he suddenly

to let the fish take his

he did for about eighty

my

and

yar.ds,

This unexpected halt was a great calamity,

stopped.

having no check-wheel,
and the slack bends of the line caught the handle
the reel over-ran

for

itself,

forward, and

just as he again rushed

that nearly pulled the rod from

gone
off

found one of

"After
evening,

this

bad

large hooks broken short

my

the confounded reel

my

with a jerk
hands he was

The

fish

was a monster

had no run

luck, I

when putting on

until

the

a large bait, and fishing

between the stream and

at the tail of a rock

still

once more had a grand rush, and hooked

water,
a big one. There were no rocks down stream, all
I

was

play and clear water, and away he went

at racing pace straight for the middle of the river.
fair

To check the

pace,

grasped the line with the

and pressed it between

my fingers so as to act as a break, and compel him
but he pulled like a horse,
to labour for every yard
stuff

of

my

loose

trousers,

and

nearly

making

cut

straight

yards without a

through

running
halt.

the
for

thick
at

now put

cotton

least

cloth,

hundred

so severe a strain

EACHEET LANDS HIM.

CHAP, ix.]

223

upon him, that my strong bamboo bent nearly double,

and the fish presently so far yielded to the pressure,
that I could enforce his running in half circles instead
of straight away.

kept gaining line, until I at

length led him into a shallow bay, and after a great
fight, Bacheet embraced him by falling upon him,

and clutching the monster with hands and knees

he then tugged to the shore a magnificent fish of

upwards of sixty pounds. For about twenty minutes
he had fought against such a strain as I had never
before used

upon a

fish,

hooks of such a large

hardly possible
by a crocodile.

for

that had

the

rod,

longer

My

size

them
reel

had now adopted

and thickness that it was
but

to

unless snapped

break,

was

so loosened from the

lasted

struggle

few minutes

must have been vanquished.

measured three

This fish

feet eight inches to the root

of the

tail,

and two

the

head measured one foot ten inches in circum-

ference

it

feet three

inches in girth of shoulders,

was the same

species

as

already caught.
"
This closed the sport for the day.

those

We

had

called all

hands to carry the fish to camp, and hoisted the

flag, which was quickly followed by the arrival of
a number of men from Sofi, to receive all that we
could spare.
these

we

The

salted

largest fish

and dried

we

cut into thin strips,

the head

made

delicious

soup, with a tea-spoonful of curry powder.

"September 26. The weather is now intensely

hot, and the short spear grass is drying so rapidly

THE BABOONS

224
that

in

VISIT US.

some stony places

it

[CHAP. ix.

can

be

The

fired.

birds appear to build their nests at various seasons.

that built

Many
work

that

among

takes

others

entire

months ago

three

is

possession

again at

black Mina,

of

species

of

are

tree,

which

it

completely covers with nests coarsely constructed of

sticks.

few days ago

verted into colonies of

found several trees con-

many hundred

dwellings.

"I never allow either the monkeys or baboons to

be disturbed thus they have no fear of our party, but
:

with perfect confidence they approach within thirty

or forty yards of the tents, sitting

upon the rocks and

and curiously watching all that takes place in

I have only seen one species of monkey
the camp.
trees,

in this neighbourhood

with white whiskers.

handsome dark grey animal

The baboons are also of one
a

species, the great dog-faced

to a very large size,

grow

ape (Cynocephalus)

and old Masara

these

fully expects

and become the wife of an old baboon,

they are allowed to become so bold.

to be carried off
if

"

This afternoon I took a

stroll

with the

rifle,

but

saw nothing except a young crocodile about six feet

long this was on the dry summit of a hill, far from
;

water.

I shot it

and took the

skin.

can only con-

clude that the small stream in which he had wandered

from the river bed had become dry, and the creature had lost its way in searching for other water.
"

A.

September 27.
M. and made a

seeing nothing but

started

circuit
tetel

from the tent at 6

of about eighteen

and

gazelles, but

miles,
I

had

CHAP,

no

THE COOK

ix.]

Hot and disgusted

luck.

took the rod,

I

hooked,

225
I

returned home, and

hoping for better luck in the

but

a small

lost,

and

fish,

river.

began to

think that the fates were against me by land and

water, when I suddenly had a tremendous run, and

about one hundred and

yards rushed

fifty

reel

without the possibility

The

river

of

the

stopping

the

off

fish.

was very low thus I followed along the

bank, holding hard, and after about half an hour
of difference of opinion, the fish began to show
;

and

itself,

coaxed

the

into

it

shallows

here

it

managed by Bacheet, who lugged it

out by the tail.
It was an ugly monster, of about
fifty pounds, a species of silurus, known
by the
was

cleverly

'

Arabs as the
of Europe

by having a

and,

land for

if

many

of musk, but
of Sofi,
"

back to

the

it

small

this

species

delicate branches

morning
of

leopard,
feet

of red

to the flag.

came suddenly
that had just

in length

it

the

was disturbed, and

immediately in the high

September

This

tail.

head

off

snake when
it

a fringe,

and lay upon the ground

the animal was commencing a meal

bitten

near the body

sight of
"

the

who immediately answered

was neatly

like

was gladly accepted by the sheik

killed a snake about five

the

fin,

silurus

kept moist, it would exist upon the

hours like an eel.
It smelt strongly

While shooting

upon a

off

dorsal

had lungs resembling

coral,

from the

differed

it

extended along

that
fish

coor /

28.

-The

heat

is

lost

grass.

most oppressive

WILD VEGETABLES.

226

[CHAP. ix.

even the nights are hot, until about 2 A.M. at which

hour a cool breeze springs up. The wind now blows

from the south until about

suddenly to the north,

and then

two points during the

me

P.M.

when

changes

between these

varies

of the day

rest

it

this leads

hope that the north wind will shortly

to

set in.

September, as in England, is the autumn of this

land; the wild fruits are ripe, some of which are
not unpleasant, but they are generally too sweet, they
lack the acidity that would be agreeable in this

burning climate. There is an orange-coloured berry

that has a pleasant flavour, but it is extremely oily ;
has a peculiarly disagreeable

this

system, if eaten in
of

any quantity.

effect

wild vegetables grow

excellent

dance throughout this country

upon the

Several varieties
in

beans, three kinds of

spinach, the juicy, brittle plant cultivated in

Egypt,

and known

as

abun-

great

'

regie

;'

and

Lower

lastly,

that

waker/ well known

main-stay of Arab cookery,
in Ceylon and India under the names of 'Barmian'
'

This grows to the height of thirteen or fourteen feet in the rich soil of the table-

and

lands

Bandikai/

the

Arabs gather the pods

in thin slices

and cut them

these are dried in the sun and then

The harvest of
packed in large sacks for market.
waker is most important, as no Arab dish would
be perfect without the admixture of this agreeable
vegetable.

The dried waker

between two stones

this, if

rubbed into powder

boiled with a little gravy,
is

produces a gelatinous and highly-flavoured soup.

DEATH OF ATALAN WAT

CHAP, ix.]

"

by whom

Said,

22J

We

September 29.

Wat

SAID.

have just heard that Atalan

we were so well received, is

The Arabs have a disagreeable custom

dead!

of

paying honours to a guest by keeping the anniversary of the death of any relatives whose decease

known

should be

to

them

Said paid a visit to Sheik

celebrated

latter

with

thus,

when Atalan Wat

Achmet Abou

much pomp

the anniversary

The unfortu-

of his (Atalans) late father's death.

nate guest,

who happened

Sinn, the

to arrive in

Abou

Sinn's

upon which his father

had died on the preceding year, was met by a
the

camp upon

exact day

mourning crowd, with the beating of drums, the

howling of women, and the loud weeping and
sorrowful condoling of the men.
This scene affected
Atalan

Wa

Said to such a degree, that, being rather

he immediately sickened with fever, and

died in three days.
In this country any grief of
mind will insure an attack of fever, when all are
unwell,

more

or less

predisposed during the unhealthy sea-

son from the commencement of July until the end

of October.
"

This afternoon I took the rod, and having caught

a beautiful silver-sided fish of about a pound weight,
I placed it

the back

upon

upon a large

fin.

striking,

single

hook fastened under

In about an hour
I

had a run, but

pulled the bait out of

the

fish's

mouth, as the point of the hook had not touched

I had wound up slowly for about thirty
the jaw.
yards, hoping that the^big fellow

Q 2

would follow

his

CATCH A BAGGAR.

223
prize, as I

lost

his attack

my
I

it

it

it

in

same

the

towards me.

immediately,

swallow

be

fish

large

and

by

found

but having readjusted the hook,

killed,

again cast

played

to

upon a bait of a pound weight.

was

bait

knew him

[CHAP. ix.

and slowly

direction,

had him

determined

before I should strike.

He

allow

to

took

him

Without a

it

to

halt,

about a hundred yards of line were taken at the

he then
first rush towards the middle of the river
;

stopped, and I waited for about a minute,

him with a

fixed

To

jerk that bent

my

and then

bamboo

like a

he replied by a splendid challenge

in one jump he flew about six feet above the water,
and showed himself to be one of the most beautiful

fly-rod.

fish I

this

had ever seen

antediluvian brutes

not one of those nondescript

that

you

expect to

catch

in

these extraordinary rivers, but in colour he appeared

like a clean

He

run salmon.

gave tremendous play,

his

and shaking
himself from the hook then

the

strong and elastic bamboo, and his deep body

several times leaping out of the water,

head furiously to free

darting away with eighty or a hundred yards of
fresh line, until he at last was forced to yield to
;

stranded upon the fatal shallows.

"

he
Bacheet was a charming lad to land a fish
was always quiet and thoughtful, and never got in
:

time he closely approached

him from behind, slipped both his hands along his

the

way

side,

of the line

and hooked

this

his

fingers

into the broad gills

thus he dragged him, splashing through the shallows,

CHAP,

FISH SALTING.

ix.]

What

to the sand bank.

The colour was that

The back

weight.

with seven rays

and small

I cut

small.

where

scales

fifty

were

pounds'

the head was well shaped,

rubies

away

my

the eyes were bright red,

and the teeth were very

line, as the hook was deeply

having washed this beautiful

assisted Bacheet to carry it to the camp,

swallowed
fish,

and the

he

resembled that of a perch,

the second dorsal fin towards the

like

What was

fin

in proportion

and shone

he was about

had fourteen rays;

tail

a beauty

of a salmon,

not larger in proportion

221)

it

and

was

after

upon a clean mat

laid

at

the tent

This species of fish is conArabs to be the best in the river,

door for admiration.

sidered

by the

'

'

It
El Baggar (the cow).
is a species of perch, and we found it excellent
I made an exact sketch
quite equal to a fine trout.
of it on the spot, after which the greater portion
it

is

therefore

called

was cut up and salted; it was then smoked for

about four hours. The latter process is necessary to
prevent the
sufficiently

"

flies

from blowing

dry to

the*

before

it

becomes

resist their attacks.

For several days

with

it,

varying

passed

success

time in fishing,
must attend all

my

that

extreme verge of the

bank were dense bushes of the nabbuk, about
fishermen.

Upon

the

river's
fifteen

but so thickly massed with green foliage

cut out a tunnel with my hunting knife,

feet high,

that

and completed a capacious arbour, thoroughly proIn this it was far more
tected from the sun.

THE ARBOUR.

230
agreeable to

pass

the day than

[CHAP. ix.

at

the

camp

ac-

we

arranged the ground with mats and

carpets, and my wife converted the thorny bower
into an African drawing-room, where she could sit
cordingly

with her work and enjoy the view of the river at her
feet, and moreover watch the fishing."

CHAPTER

X.

A FEW NOTES AT EH^TILLA,

I

WILL not

secutively,

follow the

of

con-

the journal

but merely pounce from

upon such passages

of our
"

dates

time

to

time

as will complete the description

at Ehetilla.

life

October

where the

4-

went out

Till joins the

Atbara

disappeared, and the bed

there are

many

fishing in the usual place,

is

large rocks

the

now

little

stream has

perfectly dry, but

and sandbanks in the

I
which are excellent places for heavy fish.
had only three runs, but I landed them all. The first

river,

was a beautiful baggar about

forty pounds, from

which

time a long interval elapsed before I had another.

placed a bait of about a pound upon

and

my

treble hook,

being a fine lively fellow, was likely to entice a monster.

I was kept waiting for a considerable

this,

time,

mendous

but at

rush.

last

he came with the usual

gave him about

before I fixed him,

fifty

yards of line

and the struggle then commenced

as usual with the baggar,

by

his springing out of the

water, and showing his superb form and

was a magnificent

tre-

fish,

size.

and his strength was so

This
great,

FIRE THE PALLET.

232
that

in his violent rushes

my

check him,

not

would take sixty or

without rny permission.

I
as the line burnt and cut

seventy yards of line

could

lie

[CHAP. x.

such a degree that I was forced to

fingers to

only way of working him was to

project the butt of rod in the usual manner; this
let it go,

and

was a very

At

fish.

my

feeble break

last,

after

upon the rush of such a

about half an hour of alternate

him

bullying and coaxing, I got

and Bacheet attempted

he

required the

quickly ran
struggling,

manage him

to

assistance

down from

of

shallows,
this

time

Wat Gamma, who

the camp,

and

after

much

an enormous baggar of between seventy

and eighty pounds was hauled

two delighted Arabs.
"

into the

to the shore

never enjoyed the landing of a

on the present

occasion,

and

flag hoisted for a signal,

had just caught

The two
people.
I

fish

by the

more than

immediately had the

and sent the

largest that

as a present to Florian

and

his

they lay upon the green

reeds, glittering in silvery scales, were a sight to
fish as

gladden the eyes of a fisherman, as their joint weight

was above one hundred and twenty pounds. I caught
another fish in the evening something over twenty
pounds, an ugly and useless creature, the coor, that I
despised, although it is a determined enemy while
in play.
"

October 10.

the valley.

many

The

Set

fire

river

is

to

the low spear grass of

now very

low, exposing in

places large beds of shingle, and rocks hitherto

ARRIVAL OF BIRDS.

CHAP, x.]

The water

concealed.

level is

233

now about

below the dried sedges and trash

thirty feet

by the high
floods upon the
overhanging boughs. The bed of
the Atbara, and that of the Settite, are composed of
rounded pebbles of
Large

all

sizes,

left

and masses of

iron ore.

oysters, resembling the pearl oysters of Ceylon,

are very numerous,

and, from their internal appear-

with large protuberances of pearl matter,

ance,

should

imagine

would

they

most

probably yield

pearls.

"The wild animals have now

diate neighbourhood

imme-

deserted this

the only creatures that are to

be seen in numbers are the apes and monkeys these

throng the sides of the river, eating the tamarinds
:

from the few large trees, and collecting gum from

the mimosas.
These hungry animals gather the
tamarinds before they ripen, and I fear they will
nothing is more
agreeable, in this hot climate, than the acidity of
tamarind water.
I remarked a few days ago, when
not

leave

handful

us

for

walking along the dry sandy bed of the Till about

five miles from the river, that the monkeys had
been digging wells in the sand for water.
"

Many

changes are

now

taking place in the arrival

and departure of various birds according to their

migrations immense numbers of buzzards and hawks
;

have

and

arrived,

alarm.

Ducks

ably, every

Among

day

the

keep

my

fowls

fly in large flocks

;

in

perpetual

up stream invari-

storks of different kinds are arriving.

new comers

is

beautiful little bird,

SEIZED

234
in

and shape

size

bluish

black,

The

lips.

BY A

CROCODILE.

like

[CHAP,

but of

canary,

with an ivory white

has become scarce

animals, and

there

is

no

a deep

and yellow

bill

beasts of prey are hungry,

as the

game

for

tame

safety

our goats will not feed, as they are

constantly on the look-out for danger, starting at

the least sound in the bushes, and running to the
tents for security

thus their supply of milk

is

much

reduced.

"The Sheik

of

Hassan bel Kader,

Sofi,

across the river with a present of fowls

had

his

tied

upon

drowning.

This

hunter, and

upon a
lower.

man

head
is

to

prevent

swam

these he

them from

a celebrated hippopotamus

look forward to accompanying

him

harpooning expedition, when the river is

His father was killed by a bull hippo that

the infuriated animal caught

he had harpooned
the unfortunate hunter in his jaws, and with one
;

nip disembowelled him 'before his son's eyes.

dents

are

constantly

occurring

in

this

Acci-

dangerous

in the water
sport, as the hunters are so continually

that they are exposed, like baits, to the attacks of

During the

crocodiles.

party was killed

river

supported

last season

one of the sheik's

men were swimming the

by inflated skins, when one was
;

several

suddenly seized by a crocodile. Retaining his hold

upon the support, his comrades had time to clutch

him by the
crocodile

hair,

and beneath the arms, thus the

could not drag the buoyant skins beneath

the surface.

Once he was dragged from

their grasp,

AUDACITY OF THE BUZZARD.

CHAP, x.]

but holding to

his

and was

surface,

who clung

to

him

tight,

as

leg.

In this

inflated

skin,

235

he regained the

by his friends,
him, while he implored them to hold
the crocodile still held him by the
again supported

the hunters assisted him, at the

way

same time they struck downwards with

determined brute, until they at

the

at

their spears

drove

last

gaining the shore, they

found that the flesh of the leg from the knee down-

from

it

wards

its

hold.

Upon

had been stripped from the bone, and the

poor fellow shortly died.

"
October 11. The Arabs have murdered one of
the Egyptian soldiers, about five miles from Sofi.

my

people are more or less

are in excellent health;

ill,

All

but we, thank Heaven,

in fact I have never been

better than in this country, although I

am

constantly

in hard exercise in the burning sun.

"

October 15.

to the

grass in

blaze over
diately

locusts

all

directions,

great

these hover

and other

Buzzards

are

so

person's- special

breeze,

therefore I set

numbers of
in the

insects that

The

smoke

imme-

to

catch

and
the

escape from the heat.

exceedingly bold,

is

fire

fly-catchers

duty to protect the

when an animal

fire

which spread into a

miles of country.

many

attracts

buzzards

fine

being cut up,

that

strips

at

is

it

one

of flesh

which time

and swoop down upon their

prey, clutching a piece of meat with their claws, if
left unguarded for a moment.
Upon one occasion,

many

scores

the cook

had

collect,

just cleaned a fish of about a

pound

THE ABOMINATION OF THORNS.

236

[CHAP. x.

and a half weight, which he laid upon the ground

while he stooped to blow up the fire
in an instant
a large buzzard darted upon it, and carried it off.
;

"

may have some

Africa

rather a trying country

charms, but

mud

when

grass has
is

grass, the

flies,

we

and the

those entertainments are over, and the

ripened, every variety of herb

more or

bayonets,

the rainy weather

in

have the impenetrable high

certainly is

it

armed with

less

knives,

spikes,

and bush

lances, swords, daggers,

needles,

pins,

fish-hooks,

and every abomination in the

which render a leather suit indis-

hay-forks, harpoons,

shape of points,
pensable

My

to a sportsman, even

knickerbockers are

Arab cotton
fruit

made

in this

hot climate.

of the coarse but sfrong

have dyed brown with the

of the Acacia Arabica
but after a walk of a
cloth, that I

am

one mass of horrible points from

the spear grass, for about a foot from the upper
the barbed points having penepart of my gaiters

few minutes,

and

trated, break off,

as a

"

my

trousers are as comfortable

hedgehog's skin turned inside

woolly side

out,

with the

in."

long for the time when the

will be dry enough to burn, when
I

entire

country

fire 'will

make

a clean sweep of these nuisances.

"October 17.

The sheik and

to the Settite to

sow tobacco

the

seed

several Arabs

they

simply

went
cast

sandy loam left by the reit is

without even scratching the soil

upon

"the

ceding river,
thus left to take

its

chance.

accompanied him

BOA CONSTRICTOR.

CHAP. x.J

and

the Settite,

to

herd of about
river a

fifty

237

came

upon the tracks of a

elephants that had crossed the

As we were walking
we came upon a fine boa

few days previous.

through the high grass

and not wishing

constrictor (python),

thought

to

fire,

as I

might disturb elephants in the neighbour-

made a

cut at

with

my heavy hunting
four
about
feet from the tail,
knife, nearly severing
but it escaped in the high grass.

hood, I

"

October 18.

roaring close

Mahomet
"The

lion paid us

the

to

it

tent

a visit

at intervals,

last night,

frightening

out of his wits.

seroot

has

fly

immense dragon

flies

greedily attacking

all

"October 19.

entirely

are

now

and

disappeared,
arrive <?,

and are

other flying insects.

Troops

of

baboons

are

now

exceedingly numerous, as the country being entirely

dried up,

and the

they are forced to the river for water,

shady banks covered with berry-bearing

shrubs induce them to remain.

to

ing

watch

these

majestically along,
ages, the

mothers

great

male

very amusbaboons stalking

It

is

followed by a large herd of

carrying

their

little

ones

all

upon

with a regular jockey seat

riding most comfortably, while at other times they
their

backs, the

latter

monotony of the position by sprawling

length and holding on by their mother's

relieve the

at

full

back

Suddenly a sharp-eyed young ape discovers a bush well covered with berries, and his
hair.

greedy munching being quickly observed, a general

THE BABOONS HUNT FOR BERRIES.

238

rush of youngsters takes place, and

ensues

the best places

for

ends

in

male,

who

great

uproar,

on the hind

he

has

escaped,

by

his

he

shortly

this

great

another by the hair, bites

quarters

he

as

just

thinks

back a would-be

drags

deserter

and shakes him thoroughly, and thus

tail,

enjoying

squabbling

the

among
boys
when down comes a

cuffs one, pulls

another

disputes

much

[CHAP. x.

restores

by

order,

under

sitting

the

berries

by

bush

the

and

These

himself.

further

all

preventing

quietly

baboons

have a great variety of expressions that may pera few of these I

haps represent their vocabulary
:

begin to understand, such as their notes of alarm,

and the cry to attract attention
thus, when I am
;

sitting alone

beneath the shade of a

their habits, they are at first not

quite certain

may be, and they give

me to move and show

kind of a creature I
cry to induce

liar

more
"

watch

tree to

what

a pecu-

myself

distinctly.

October 20.

lion

was roaring throughout the

night not far from the tent on his way towards the
at every roar he was answered by
river to drink
the deep angry cry of the baboons, who challenged
:

him immediately from

high rocks and trees.
large feet

no

found

upon the bank of the

possibility

time, as

their secure positions

they

of finding these
retire

to the

on the

the tracks of his

river,

but there

is

animals in the day

high grass

upon the

table-lands.

" The

banks of the Atbara are now swarming

MASSES OF SMALL BIRDS.

CHAP, x.]

239

with small birds that throng the bushes

of

weight of a large

water's

bends

down

by

growing

willow),

the

flock

boughs until they touch the water

the

kiss

no

birds get

edge
the

this

These

stream.

the

slender
their

is

as their beaks for

opportunity for drinking,

stant

(a species

an

unfortunate

in-

little

the large fish and the crocodiles

rest,

when they attempt to

and hawks pursue them

grab at them

drink, while

the falcons

at all

and in every
can obtain

direction.

rest,

Nothing

is

as nothing

fat,

and beasts

the innumerable birds

no peace to the weaker kinds

the
alderman of the city of London would

of prey give
fattest

become a

by a
"

times

hunted

if

skeleton,

for

two hours daily

hyaena.

This evening I took a walk, accompanied by my wife, and Bacheet with a spare

October 23.

gun, to try for a shot at guinea-fowl.

strolling along the

margin of the

heard a great shrieking of

side,

fetch

been

were

in

the

their
filling

spot from which

their

attacked

tempted

to

About a

water.

water-skins,

seize

back, avoided

it,

girba (water-skin),

of a

brown

woman.

when

by
a

large

woman,

and the

the

were

when we

the opposite

people of Sofi

dozen

women had

when suddenly they

who atcrocodile,
but

animal

she,

springing

swallowed

her

being full of water and

resembled the body of a
rushed out of the river,

that,

exterior,

The women

the crocodile

river,

women on

We

made

second dash at them,

CUNNING OF THE CROCODILE.

240

and

another water-skin

seized

[CHAP. x.

that

woman had

dropped in her flight.

They believe this to be
same monster that took a woman a few
the'

months
the

as

Few

ago.

creatures are

watch

crocodile..

so

them

and wary

sly

they attack the dense flocks of small birds

bushes

throng the

birds are perfectly

from the

fly

the

at

as

continually

water's

that

These

edge.

aware of the danger, and they

if

attack,

The

possible.

crocodile

then quietly and innocently lies upon the surface,

as though it had appeared quite by an accident
it thus attracts the attention of
the birds, and it
;

sails

slowly

to

posed

away

to

considerable

The

view.

their

by the

deceiver,

moved,

and

they

birds,

believe

that

the

again

flock

to

ex-

distance,

thus

beguiled

danger
the

re-

is

bush,

and

once more dip their thirsty beaks into the stream.

Thus

absorbed

in

slaking

not

observe

that

their

the

surface.

sudden

their

thirst,
is

enemy
splash,

no

they

do

longer

on

followed

by

huge pair of jaws beneath the bush that engulfs

some dozens of victims, is the signal unexpecof

the

tedly

given

thus

slily- dived,

and

water to his victims.

repeat this manoeuvre
a feigned retreat,

crocodile's

return,

hastened
I

who has

under cover

of

have seen the crocodiles

they deceive by
and then attack from below.
constantly

"
is

In like manner the crocodile perceives, while it

floating on the surface in mid-stream, or from

the opposite side of the river, a

woman

filling

her

HEAD OF BLACK RHTNOCEROS.

METHOD OF SEIZING

CHAP, x.]

ITS PREY.

241

an animal drinking, &c. &c.

Sinking immediately, it swims perhaps a hundred yards nearer,
and again appearing for an instant upon the surgirba, or

by

assures

it

face,

look

stealthy

the position

of

itself

more

once

it

reaches the exact spot above which

animal

neath

Seeing

generally makes

it

water,

be.

may

sometimes seizing

of

its

prey

sinks,

and

person or

the

through the
rush from be-

distinctly
its

fatal

with

its

and

jaws,

at

other times striking the object into the water with

its

The

which

after

tail,

it

but

generally

for a considerable

it

keeps

deep hole beneath a

where

it

crocodile

no

it

eats
is

tached

"

the

flesh

way

off.

away, and

jaws in some
a

root of

The tongue

the

entire

tree,

the

of

creature

same name

length

lower jaw
membrane from the
of

the

de-

is
it

is

gullet

along the length of jaw.

Having burnt

October 24:grass,

its

be called by the

like a thickened

of high

the

or

rock,

throughout

to about half

time in

it

unlike that of any other

so

from

carries

at leisure.

it

can hardly

portion

more

and carried

crocodile does not attempt to swallow a large

prey at once,

that

seized

is

discovered

and wild cucumbers

off

a large surface

a quantity of gourds

the latter are bright crimson,

covered with long fleshy prickles, with black horny

these are eaten by the baboons, but not by
tips
;

Arabs.

the

cups and

"I

The gourds

ladles,

are

only serviceable for

manufactured from their

find a good pair of

shells.

Highland shooting shoes of

HORSE DEALING.

242
great value

they have

the soles were exceedingly thick, and

now, the intensely hard and

sandstone which grinds through all

resisted, until

coarse-grained
leather.

[CHAP. x.

My

are

soles

length worn out,

at

and

have repaired them with the tanned hide of giraffe.

Much of the sandstone is white, and soft and friable

but this appears to have been decomposed by time

and exposure,

make
"

as the generality

is

hard,

and would

excellent grindstones.

Three elephant-hunters arrived to-

October #5.

day with horses for sale. I purchased three a bay

and two greys. They are all of Abyssinian breed, and
are handsome animals, although none exceed fourteen
hands and a

half.

The

prices were high

part of the world, where dollars are scarce

for
;

this

but to

me, they appeared to be absurdly cheap. The bay

horse was a regular strong-built cob ; for him I paid
nineteen dollars about 4 including a native saddle

and

bridle

for the greys, I paid fifteen

and

and thirteen

The bay
I named Tetel (hartebeest), the greys Aggahr* and
Tetel was a trained hunter, as was Aggahr
Gazelle.
dollars, saddles

bridles also included.

was quite inexperienced, but remarkably handsome. None of these horses had ever

likewise.

Gazelle

been shod, but their hoofs were beautifully shaped,

and as hard as ivory. The saddles had no stuffing

on the

seats,

but were simple wooden frames, with

high backs and pommels, the various pieces being

*

Aggahr

is

the designation of a hunter with the sword.

ARAB SADDLES AND

CHAP, x.]

sewn together with raw

covered* with

simple

iron

hide,

rings,

The

sufficiently

large

The

243

and the front and back

skin.

crocodile

stirrups

were

admit the

to

according to Arab fashion

of the rider,

great toe

BITS.

were dreadfully severe ;

but perhaps not unnecessarily, as the sword allows
Each
only one bridle-hand to a pulling horse.
in

these

parts.

bits

horse was furnished with a leather nose-bag, and a

long leathern thong as a picket strap. All these
horses and saddlery I had purchased for forty-seven
dollars,

or

Fortunately, both

91. I Os.

my

wife and

were well provided with the best English saddles,

bridles, &c. or the
big toe stirrup would have been
I

'

'

an awkward
"

necessity.

October 26.

We

our camp this morning for

a few days' reconnaissance of the country, accompanied by Florian, prior to commencing our regular
left

Nine miles S.E. of Ehetilla we passed

through a village called "Wat el Negur, after which
we continued along a great tract of table-land, on
expedition.

the eastern side of the Atbara valley, bounded by a

mimosa

forest

about four miles 'on the

large quantities of dhurra

east.

(Sorghum vulgare)

are

Very

grown

now

higher than a man's

head when mounted upon a camel. Far as the eye
can reach, the great table-lands extend on either

upon

side

this fertile soil

it is

the broad valley of the Atbara.

The cotton

that was planted many years ago by the inhabitants

who have vanished, still flourishes, although choked

with grass

six

or seven feet high.

K 2

At

4 P.M.

we

ARRIVE AT SUERIF EL IBRAHIM.

244

[CHAP. x.

reached a large village, Sherif el Ibrahim, twenty-eight

miles S.E. from Sofi by the route upon the east bank
of the Atbara,

which cuts

a bend in the river.

off

species of dhurra, as sweet as the sugar-cane,

grows

being regularly sown and culcalled ankoleep.

This is generally

here in abundance,
tivated

it

is

chewed in the mouth

as a cane

by the women, and, when

but

dried,

it is

it

also peeled

boiled with

is

milk to give it sweetness. A grain called dochan,

a species of millet, is likewise cultivated to a considerable extent

when

ripe,

would grow cotton and sugar

October 28.

somewhat resembles

The whole of

the head of the bulrush.

"

it

this country

to perfection.

slept at the village,

Having

we went

and Florian shot a hippopotamus. The

natives, having skinned it. rushed at the carcase with

to the river,

knives and axes, and fought over it like a pack of

wolves; neither did they leave the spot until they
had severed each bone, and walked off with every
morsel, of this
"
October 31.

Sherif

el

immense

beast.

Having passed a couple

we started for
way, we arrived at a

Ibrahim,

about half

granite rock,

of days at

the Settite.

When

curious plateau of

with a pool of water in the centre.

Formerly a large village occupied this position, named

Gerr^rat; but it was destroyed in a raid by the
Egyptians, as being one of Mek Nimmur's strongholds.

The rock

is

flat

surface of about five acres,

large detached fragments of granite ;

pear this are several pools of water, which form the

covered with

AURIK1L AT THE SETTITR

CHAP, x.]

source of

the

digitata) grows

pool

at Ehetilla.

camp

and

fasted,

our

(Adansonia

the blocks of granite

its

by the

enormous boughs we break4

again started at

Settite river at 7.30, at a spot

dark we had some

bounds

that

Till,

large homera-tree

among

in the shade of

tHe

rivulet,

245

reaching the

P.M.

named

Geera.

difficulty in finding our

the rugged slopes of the valley to the river.

In the

way down

We

had

not taken beds, as these incumbrances were unneces-

when

sary

made

in light marching

AVe therefore

order.

separate bivouacs, Florian and his people about

a hundred yards distant, while a rug laid upon the

ground was

sufficient for

my

wife.

comfortable in a similar manner.

all

made myself

Lions were roaring

night.

"

On

the following morning

we took

a long stroll

along the wild and rugged valley of the Settite, that

was precisely similar to that of the Atbara. The river,

although low, was a noble stream, and the water was

at this season beautifully clear as it ran over a bed

The pass between the cliffs of Geera

was exceedingly lovely. At that point the river did
not exceed 200 yards in width, and it flowed through
of clean pebbles.

cliffs

abrupt
fine

of beautiful rose-coloured limestone

and pure was the surface of the

so

stone, that in

resembled artificially-smoothed marble ; in

other places, the cliffs, equally abrupt, were of milk-

places

it

This was the

white limestone of similar quality.

spot
left

in

which

had found limestone

Lower Egypt.

The name

since I

first

had

Geera/ in Arabic,

RECALL OF MAHOMET.

246

[CHAP. x.

was an important vilMek Nimmur, but it had been

signifies lime.

this

Formerly

belonging to
destroyed by the Egyptians, and the renowned

lage

Nimmur was

obliged to

Mek

back to the strongholds

fall

of the mountains.

"I

started off a

entire
village

three

man

Mahomet and my

to recall

camp from Ehetilla to Wat el Negur, as

was only seven hours' march from Geera
points, Sherif

el

Ibrahim, Geera, and

Negur formed almost an

equilateral

that

the

Wat

el

We

triangle.

reached the latter village on the following day, and

found that Mahomet and a string of camels from

The country was now

thickly populated on the west bank of the Atbara,
as the Arabs and their flocks had returned after the
Sofi

had already

arrived.

disappearance of the serroot

Mahomet had had

fly.

an accident, having fallen from his camel and broken

no bones, but he had smashed the stock of my single barrel

rifle

this

was

in

two

pieces

mended

it,

and

became stronger than ever. The wood had broken

short off in the neck of the stock, I therefore bored

it

a hole about three inches deep up the centre of either

piece, so that it

one of them

was hollowed

I inserted

like a

marrow bone

in

a piece of an iron ramrod,

drew the other piece over the iron

manner, and gently tapped the shoulder-

red-hot, I then
in a similar

plate

until
I

together.

boxes two
into

the

had driven the broken

then

strong

joint

firmly

took off from a couple of old

brass

wood on each

hasps
side

these

of the

let

neatly

broken stock,

CHAP, x.]

SHEIK ACHMET WAT EL NEGUR.

and secured them by screws,

so

that they fitted exactly.

247

filing off all projections,

work by

I finished the

stretching a piece of well-soaked crocodile's skin over

when drawn

the joint, which,

When

together.

dried

this

sewed strongly
became as hard as

tight, I
it

and very much stronger; the extreme contraction held the work together like a vice, and my
horn,

was

rifle

countries

perfectly

should

restored.

always

wild

traveller in

sundry treasures

preserve

that will become invaluable, such as strips of crocodile skin, the hide of the

which should

iguana, &c.

be kept in the tool-box for cases of need.

The
tool-box should not exceed two feet six inches in
length and one foot in depth, but
the very best implements that

an

extra

supply of gimlets,

borers

of

every

iron

at

least

description,

two dozen

it

should contain

can be made, with

awls,

tools

also
files

centre-bits,

of

for

and

boring

different

sorts

should be included."

"Wat

and

Wat

el

el

Negur was
as

his

name and

excellent

Sheik Achmet

polite sheik of the Jalyn tribe.

same race
east

Negur was governed by a most

title

being of the

Mek Nimmur,

bank of the Atbara.

he dared to occupy the

Sheik Achmet was a wise

man, he was a friend of the Egyptian authorities,

to whom he paid tribute as though it were his
greatest

pleasure;

he

also

paid

tribute

Nimmur, with whom he was upon the

to

Mek

best of terms;

therefore, in the constant fights that took place

the borders, the cattle and people of Sheik

upon

Achmet

MANSFIELD PARKYNS.

248

were

contending parties, while

others were sufferers.
This was exactly

all

the spot for

I

by the

respected

those of

my head-quarters,

wished to

on

be

and through him

as, like

Sheik Achmet,

terms with everybody,

should be able to obtain an

good

Mek Nimmur, whom

introduction to

wished to

[CHAP. x.

as

visit,

I particularly

had heard that there never

was such a brigand.

Accordingly, I pitched the
tents and formed a camp upon the bank of the
river, about two hundred yards below the village

Wat

of

and

el

Negur, and in a short time Sheik Achmet

became the greatest friends.

is
nothing more delightful when

There

in a strange country, a thousand miles

travelling

away from

the

track of the wildest tourist, than to come upon the

of

footprint

of his sole

minds and

not the actual mark

upon the sand, which the dust quickly

but

obscures,

countryman
to

find

imprinted
of

recollections

the

deeply

upon the

people,

the

character of a former traveller, that

favourable intoduction.

Wat

Many

insures

good

you a

years before I visited

Negur, Mr. Mansfield Parkyns, who has certainly written the best book on Abyssinia that I
have ever read, passed through this country, having
el

visited

He

Mek Nimmur,

was, I believe, the only European that had ever

been in

Mek Nimmur's

footsteps

been

Parkyns had
a

"

the father of the present Mek.

sweet

followed

left

name

;"

territory,

until

neither

my

had

arrival.

behind him what the Arabs

and as

happened

to

his

Mr.
call

have his

ADVANTAGES OF A

CHAP, x.]

"

SWEET NAME"

249

book, "Life in Abyssinia/' with me, I showed

it

to

the sheik as his production, and explained the illus&c.

trations,

at

the

same

time I told him that

Mr. Parkyns had described his visit to Mek Nimmur,

of' whom he had spoken very highly,
and that I
wished to have an opportunity of telling the great
chief in person

been

how much

appreciated.

good reception had

Sheik Achmet im-

his

The good

mediately promised to present

me

to

Mek Nimmur,

and wished particularly to know- whether I intended

to write a book like Mr. Parkyns upon my return.
Should T do so, he requested me to mention Ms
promised at once to do this
favour; thus I have the greatest pleasure in

name.

ing that
best

the

Wat

Sheik Achmet

and most

ever met in Africa;

el

agreeable

he

Negur

fellows

certify-

one of

is

that

does not keep

trifling

an

have
hotel,

would strongly recommend it to all travellers,

but his welcome is given gratis, with the warmest

or I

hospitality.

The country
above
several

Wat

el

for several miles

Negur was

upon the table-land

highly cultivated, and

thousand acres were planted with dhurra,

that was at this season in full grain, and nearly ripe.

Much

sesame was grown for the manufacture of

cotton was

was a

also cultivated,

There was
.as

little rest for

and the neighbourhood

example of the wonderful

the entire country that was allowed to
fair

oil

capabilities of
lie

in idleness.

the inhabitants at this time,

the nights were spent in watching their extensive

ELEPHANTS DESTROY THE CROPS.

250
plantations,

elephants.

[CHAP. x.

and

endeavouring to scare away the

These animals, with extreme cunning,

invaded the dhurra crops at different positions every

night,

and retreated before morning

to great distances

in the thick thorny jungles of the Settite.

Our
as

was welcomed with general enthusiasm,

the Arabs were unprovided with fire-arms, and
arrival

the celebrated aggageers or sword-hunters were useless,

as the

elephants only appeared at night, and were

far too

cunning to give them a chance.

a particular range

of

almost

There was

impenetrable thorny

covert in the neighbourhood of Geera, well

as

the

asylum

for

these

animals,

to

known

which

retreated, after

having satiated themselves

hours' feeding

upon the crops of corn.

by

they
a few

I promised

to assist in protecting the plantations, although the

Arabs assured

me

that,

in spite of our

elephants would return every night.

Wishing to judge personally of

rode up to the dhurra

fields,

and

for

rifles,

the

the

damage,
a few hours

I
I

through which I could ride with

ease, as the plants were arranged like hops.
Many acres were absolutely destroyed, as the

examined the

crops,

elephants had not

only carefully stripped off the

heavy heads of corn, but had trampled down and
had consumed.
wilfully broken much more than they

The Arabs knew nothing about guns, or their effect

upon elephants, and I felt quite sure that a few
nights with the heavy
them from the fields.

rifles

would very soon

scare

AN INVITATION

CHAP, x.]

I return to

"

my

November

TO SHOOT.

251

journal.

In the middle of

7.

by the Arabs, who begged me

disturbed

was

last night T

to get

and shoot the elephants that were already in

This I refused to do, as I will not

plantations.

a shot until they

call in their

the fields quiet.

up
the
fire

watchers, and leave

few nights ago there was a

perfect uproar from a score

of watchers,

that pre-

vented the elephants from coming at the very time

that the people had induced me to pass the whole
night in the
shall

fields.

call in all

have arranged that the sheik

and that they

these watchers,

accompany me to-morrow

night.

shall

then post

will

myself in the centre of the plantations, dividing the

men

into

many parties at
me and report

quietly to

elephants

may have

"This morning

insists

to

points,

the

position

return

that

the

taken.

purchased a kid for two piastres

The

(fivepence.)

all

sheik

is

exceedingly

upon sending me daily

civil,

supplies of milk

and

and

vegetables.

"This afternoon, accompanied by

my wife,

I accepted

an invitation to shoot a savage old bull hippopotamus that had been sufficiently impertinent to chase

He

several of the natives.

lived in a deep

portion of the river, about two

accordingly

rode to

The

hippo at home.

wide at
a deep

the spot,

this place, in

pool.

In

and broad

miles distant.

We

and found the old

was about 250 yards

an acute bend that had formed

the

river

centre

of this

was a mud

THE HIPPO CHALLENGES BACHEET.

252

[CHAP. x.

bank, just below the surface; upon this shallow bed

the hippo was reposing.

Upon

exceedingly saucy, snorting at

perceiving us he was

my

a most absurd manner,

ing himself in

and behav-

party,

by shaking

head and leaping-half way out of the water.

his

This plunging demonstration was intended to frighten

I had previously given Bacheet a pistol, and had
us.

him

ordered

follow on

to

Wat

the ford at

el

the opposite

Negur.

now

bank from

hallooed to

him

to fire several shots at the hippo, in order to drive

if

him,

possible,

towards me, as

behind a rock in
the

descended

the bed

I lay

of the

in

Bacheet

river.

perpendicular bank

almost

ambush

to

the

water's edge, and after having chaffed the hippo considerably, he fired a shot with the pistol,
far

to

which was

more dangerous to us on the opposite side than

The hippo, who was a wicked solithe animal.

tary

old

returned

bull,

the

have his own way,

by charging towards Bacheet

accustomed
insult

to

with a tremendous snorting, that sent him scrambling up the steep bank in a panic, amidst a roar

from the people on my side concealed

In this peal of merriment I thought
in the bushes.
of laughter

of

could distinguish a voice closely resembling that

my

wife.

However,

longed to be brought

worthy of

his

steel,

Bacheet,

who had always

face to face with

had

bolted,

some

and he now stood

on the top of the bank,

above the river, and fired the second

safe in his elevated position

thirty

feet

foe

barrel in bold defiance at the hippopotamus.

A GOOD

CHAP. x.J

"As

253

SHOT.

the hippo had gained

confidence, I

showed

myself above the rock, and called to him, according

to

Arab custom,

'

'

Ha"sinth

HS-sinth

He, thinking

no doubt that he might as well hunt me away, gave

a loud snort, sank, and quickly re-appeared about
a hundred yards from

me; but

positively refused to approach.

nearer than this he

I therefore called to

Bacheet to shout from the other side to attract his

attention,

and

he

as

turned

his

took a

little

Fletcher

head,

steady shot behind the ear with the

rifle.

This happened to be one of those fortunate

shots

that

consoles

you

for

many

misses,

and the

hippo turned upon his back and rolled

about in tremendous struggles, lashing the still and

saucy old

deep pool into waves, until he at length disappeared.

We knew that he was settled thus my people
;

started

off*

towards the

short time a

camels,

axes,

and

in a marvellously

crowd of Arabs arrived with

frantic

ropes,

village,

knives,

sary for an onslaught upon

and everything necesthe hippo, who,

up

to

had not appeared upon the surface.

In
about one hour and a half from the time he received

this time,

the bullet,

we

discovered his carcase floating about two

hundred yards lower down the river. Several heads

of large crocodiles appeared and vanished suddenly
within a few feet of the floating carcase, therefore
the Arabs considered it prudent to wait until the

stream

should

strand

* Hasinth

is

the

body upon

the pebbly

the Arabic for Hippopotamus.

A RUSH AT THE

254

CARCASE.

[CHAP. x.

about half a mile below the pool. Upon

arrival at that point, there was a general rush, and
shallows

the excited crowd secured the hippo

and hauled

it

to

the shore.

as the skin without the

bull,

feet three inches.

sheik,

and a

large

It

by many ropes,
was a very fine

head measured twelve

had two haunches kept for the

quantity of fat, which is highly

and deservedly prized by the Arabs, as it is the

most delicate of any animal. Those portions secured,
with a reserve of meat for ourselves, the usual disscene

gusting

of

violence

"In the evening

fields for

elephants.

crowd

commenced, the

falling upon the carcase like

maddened

hyaenas.

resolved to watch the dhurra

At about

P.M. I arrived in

men carrying spare guns,

among whom was Bacheet, who had at length an

the plantations, with three

I enopportunity for which he had long yearned.

trusted to him the 'Baby,' which he promised to

put into
fire

my

my

hands the very moment that

second barrel.

carried

I should

my own

Ceylon

We had not been half

No. 10, made by Beattie.
an hour in the dhurra fields before we met a couple
Arab watchers, who informed us that a herd of
elephants was already in the plantation; we accordof

In about a quarter of an
distinctly heard the cracking of the dhurra

ingly followed our guides.

hour we

stems, as the elephants browsed, and trampled

beneath their

them

feet.

"Taking the proper position of the wind,

led

our party cautiously in the direction of the sound,

ELEPHANTS AT NIGHT.

CHAP, x.j

and in about

five

255

minutes I came in view of the

and dusky forms of the herd.

The
moon was bright, and I counted nine elephants
slate-coloured

they had trampled a space of about

square into a barren level, and they

yards

fifty

now

were

One

slowly moving foward, feeding as they went.

was

unfortunately,

elephant,

from

separated

the

herd, and was about forty yards in the rear; this

fellow I was afraid would render our approach
%

difficult.

my

Cautioning

to keep close to

me

men, especially Bacheet,

with the spare

rifles,

crept

along the alleys formed by the tall rows of dhurra,

and after carefully stalking against the wind, I felt
sure that

would be necessary to

it

the single

kill

elephant before I should be able to attack the herd.

Accordingly, I

crept

nearer

and

well

nearer,

con-

cealed in the favourable crop of high and sheltering

I

until

stems,

hindmost

was

within

As

animal.

fifteen

of

yards

the

had never shot one of

the African species I was determined to follow the

therefore
Ceylon plan, and get as near as possible
I continued to creep from row to row of dhurra,
;

until

elephant

touched
it either

at

length

the

in

row.

the

very
could

with

me

shot, and,
fell.

next

at

my rifle, but just

obtained my wind, or it

it

of the men.

towards

stood

It quickly
;

in the

by the

turned

its

same instant

flash

of

the

of

tail

easily

at this

the

have

moment,

heard the rustle

head half round

I took the

rifle,

temple

saw that

Jumping forward past the huge body,

it

I fired

KILL

256
the

left-hand

AN

ELEPHANT.

at

an

barrel

vanced from the herd

came the moment

had ad-

that

elephant

fell

it

[CHAP. x.

immediately

Now

grand rush, as they stumbled

in confusion over the last fallen elephant, and jammed
together in

for a

dense mass with their immense ears

outspread, forming a picture of intense astonishment

"Where were

my

spare guns

Here was a grand

them right and left

opportunity to run in and floor

"
Not a man was in sight, everybody had bolted

and

advance of the dead elephant calling

for my guns in vain.
At length one of my fellows
came up, but it was too late, the fallen elephant in
I stood in

the herd had risen from the ground, and they had
hustled off at a great pace, and were gone

Where was

only bagged one elephant.

Bacheet

the would-be Nimrod,

months had been

three

place

the

high

elephants' retreat.

whole
the

party

gallant

village,

dhurra

by a

little

Bacheet

crest-fallen

He was
when

and long-

the last

of

the

admonish the

to

treatment,

with

completely

man

his hiding-

assured

physical

returned

and

last

when he had promised

was obliged

the

for

appear, and he only ventured from

in

had

the valiant

fretting in inactivity,

ing for the moment of action,

to be my trusty gun-bearer!
to

who

all

us

to

subdued.

and
the

On

day not a vestige remained of the

the Arabs had not only
elephant, except the offal
cut off the flesh, but they had hacked the skull and

the

following

the bones in pieces,

down

for soup.

and carried them

off to boil

CHAPTER XL
/

THE FORD.

Two months had

elapsed since the last drop of rain

had closed the wet

and the

river

had

season.

It

fallen to so

was 15th November,

low an ebb that the

stream was reduced to a breadth of about eighty

yards of bright and clear water, rushing in places

with great rapidity through the centre of its broad

and stony bed, while in sudden bends of the channel it widened into still, and exceedingly deep pools.

We

were encamped exactly upon the verge of a

perpendicular cliff, from which there was a rugged
path to the dry channel some thirty feet below,
which shelved rapidly towards the centre occupied

In this spot were powerful rapids,

above which to our left was a ford, at this time

by the

stream.

about waist-deep, upon a bed of rock that divided

the lower rapids from a broad and silent pool above
:

across

this

passed

to

the

ford
collect

their

bushes on the opposite

and a marabou

women

stork,

of

of

faggots
I

side.

and
s

the village

had shot a

was

daily

wood from

the

crocodile,

carefully plucking

GIRLS CARRIED

258

AWAY BY THE

RAPIDS.

the plume of beautiful feathers from

FCHAP. xi.

tail

tlie

of

tlie

surrounded by a number of Arabs, when I

observed a throng of women, each laden with a

bird,

bundle of wood, crossing the ford in single file from

the opposite bank.
Among them were two young
of about fifteen,

girls

and

remarked that

instead of marching in a line with the

wading hand-in-hand
head of the rapids.

these,

women, were

in dangerous proximity to the

few seconds

later,

I noticed

that they were inclining their bodies up stream, and

were evidently struggling with the current. Hardly
had I poioted out the danger to the men around

me, when the

girls

clung to each other, and striving

they tottered down the stream

towards the rapids, which rushed with such violence
that the waves were about two feet high.
With
their

against

fate

praiseworthy speed the Arabs started to their

and dashed
river,
girls

down

descent

the

feet,

towards the

deep
but before they had reached half way, the
uttered a shriek, lost their footing, and in

another instant they threw their arms wildly above

their heads, and

were hurried away in the foam of

the rapids.

One disappeared immediately

was

as

visible,

surface

she

the other

her long black hair floated on the

also

sank.

yards below the spot,

Presently,

about twenty

a pair of naked arms pro-

truded high above the surface, with ivory bracelets

upon the wrists, and twice the hands clapped together as though imploring help
peared.

The water was by

this

again she disap-

time

full

of men,

AN AMPHIBIOUS ARAB

CHAP. XL]

who had rushed

GIRL.

259

but they had foolishly jumped in at the spot where they had first
seen the girls, who were of course by this time
carried

far

farther

down

peared

to

the rescue;

the

away by

Once

torrent.

more,

the river, the hands and bracelets ap-

again they wildly clapped together, and in

the clear water

we

beneath.

she

Still,

diately

she

surface,

and

could plainly see the dark hair

sank again, but almost immehead and shoulders abov^e the

rose

thrice

she

again

clapped

her hands

for aid.

This
this

was her

last

effort

men had

time several

she

disappeared.

wisely run

1)ank below the tail of the rapids,

along

By
the

and having formed

a line across a very narrow portion of the stream,

one of them suddenly clutched an object beneath
the water, and in another

moment he

of the girl in his arms.

Of course she was dead?

or a
I

fit

subject for the Eoyal

supposed

held the body

Humane

Society?

So

when, to our intense astonishment, she

no sooner was brought to the shore than she gave

herself a shake, threw back her long hair, wrung
out and arranged her dripping rahat, and walked
leisurely back to the ford, which she crossed with
the assistance of the Arab

What

was composed of

she

she was the

offspring

and hippopotamus,
crocodile

who had saved

know

I cannot say

of a cross between

her.
;

whether

mermaid

hatched from the egg of a

not, but a more wonderfully amor

phibious being I have rarely seen.

s 2

SEARCH FOR THE BODY.

260

[CHAP. xi.

During this painful scene, in which one girl had

been entirely lost, the mother of her who was saved

had rushed

to

meet her child

as

she landed from

but instead of clasping her to her heart,

as we had expected, she gave her a maternal wel-

the ford

come by beating her most unmercifully with her

fists,

bestowing such lusty blows upon her back that

we could distinctly hear them at a distance of fifty

yards ; this punishment, we were given to underserved her perfectly right,

stand,

having been

for

venture

near

the

melancholy death-howl was

now

raised

foolish

women
river

to

enough

in the village, while the

in

search of the missing

The

rapids.

men

by

all

the

explored the

On

body.

the

fol-

lowing morning the sheik appeared at my tent,

with a number of Arabs who had been unsuccessful,

and he

means

begged

if

me,

possible,

to

suggest some

for the discovery of the girl, as her remains

should be properly interred.

I proposed that they should procure a log of
heavy
wood, as near as possible the size of the girl, and that
this should

be thrown into the rapids, in the exact

spot where she had disappeared;

this, being nearly

be
the same weight, would
equally acted upon by
would
form
a guide which they
the stream, and

should

follow

until

it

should lead them

'to

some

whirlpool formed by a backwater

deep eddy,
should the pilot log remain in such a spot, they
would most probably find the body in the same
or

place.

The men immediately procured

log,

and

THE CORPSE RECOVERED.

CHAP, xi.]

261

with the sheik himself to carry out the exIn the afternoon, we heard a terrible
periment.
set

off

howling and crying, and a crowd of

men and women

whom

returned to the village, some of

paid us a

they had found the body. The log had guided

them about two miles distant, and had remained
visit

in

stationary

the
the

a backwater near

bull hippopotamus

in this

where
still

had shot

pool,

close

to

they almost immediately discovered the

bank,

girl floating slightly

No

beneath the surface.

croco-

had injured the body, but the fish had destroyed

a portion of the face it was already so far advanced
dile

in decomposition, that

was necessary

to

bury it
upon the margin of the river, at the spot where it
was discovered. The people came to thank me for
it

having originated the idea, and the very agreeable

sheik spent the evening with us with a number ol
his people

had

this

was

his

become

visits.

thoroughly
At such times

while he sat upon a

greatest

accustomed

we

mat

would

tell

never

tired,

sat

daily

a half-circle

he then invariably requested that we

him stories about England. Of these he

and with the

of the

Arabs

assistance of

We

knew

explain his errors.

Mahomet we

the great amuse-

being the mistakes that they

readily perceived were

preter.

his

upon the ground,

who formed

established a regular entertainment

ment

to

and we

upon an angarep,

stretched

with a number of his men,

around us

delight,

made by Mahomet

sufficient

as inter-

Arabic to check and to

THE SHEIK LAYS DOWN THE LAW.

262

The death

[CHAP. xi.

of the girl gave rise to a conversation

upon drowning this turned upon the subject of the

and ended in a discussion upon the
girl herself,
:

value

women

of

the

originating

question

in

lament on the part of the sheik that a nice young

drowned instead of a useless old
girl had been

The sheik

woman.

"that a

force,

down

laid

woman was

the law

of no

use

with great

when

she

ceased to be young, unless she was a good strong

could grind corn, and carry water from

who

person

"

the river

by

unanimously,

supported

was seconded, and

in this assertion he

crowd

the

of

Arabs

present.

Now

the Arab
to request

women, when they called upon my wife,

her to show her hands they would then
;

the soft

feel

"

was always a common practice among

it

Ah

she

palms,

and exclaim in astonishment,

never

has

duty of a wife unless she

the

possess slaves.

is

rich

Sheik Achmet requested

him some account

England

"

corn

ground

that being

enough to

me

to give

of our domestic arrangements in

did this as briefly as possible, explaining

how

ladies received our devoted attentions, extolling

their

beauty and virtue, and in fact giving him an

idea that England was paradise, and that the ladies

were

angels.

described the

variety

of colours

that instead of all being dark, some were exceedingly

that we had many
that others had red hair
fair
;

bright black eyes, and some

and at the

close

of

my

irresistible

descriptions,

dark blue

believe the

"

CHAP. XL]

and

sheik

THE FACT

his

"

chilly

How

disposed to

felt

party

mediately to the

SIMPLY IMPOSSIBLE."

IS

shores

of

263

emigrate im-

Great

Britain
"

"

far off is

Well,"
your country ?
said the sheik, with a sigh, "that must be a very

they asked,

how could you possibly come

charming country
away from all your beautiful wives ? True, you have
brought one with you she is, of course, the youngest
;

and most lovely

home

perhaps those you have

"

left

at

was obliged to explain,

that we are contented with one wife, and that, even
are the old ones

were people disposed to marry two, or more, they

would be punished with imprisonment.
This an-

nouncement was received with a general expression

of indignation; the sheik and his party, who a few
minutes ago were disposed to emigrate, and
upon our shores, would now at the most
ventured upon a return

ticket.

of disapprobation, there
disbelief
"

absurd

When
be

my

the fact

What

she

is

satisfied

murmurs

was a decided expression of

statement.

"Why,"

said

is

is

he to do when she becomes old

old,

and the beauty must

does not fade like the

remains the same for

many

woman

fade.

years, but^she changes

have young wives to replace the old

the Prophet allow

it ?

Had

The

therefore as he

in a few years, Nature has arranged that the

shall

the

young, if very lovely, perhaps, he mightwith her, but even the young must

some day grow

man

last

have

simply impossible ! How can a

be contented with one wife ? It is ridiculous,

sheik,

man

in

After some

settle

man

does not

not our forefathers

many

THE SHEIK'S IDEA OF MATRIMONY.

264

wives

and

we have but one

shall

Your wife

[CHAP. xi.

Look

at your-

young, and" (here the sheik

"
indulged in compliments), but in ten years she will
not be the same as now ; will you not then let

self.

is

her have a nice house

old,

all to herself,

when

while you take a fresh young wife

was obliged

to

she grows

"
?

explain to the sheik that,

our ladies never looked old

first,

secondly, they improved

with age and thirdly, that we were supposed to

love our wives with greater ardour as they advanced
;

This was received with an ominous shake

in years.

"Mash-

of the head, coupled with the exclamation,

allah

!"

moment

woman
1

a few remarks

for

"

tinued,

by the whole

repeated

You men

are selfish

which you
constancy and love ;'
that

multiplicity of husbands,
to love

her

how can

'

"

party.

on polygamy
not

would

it

in

give

-I

con-

return,

demanded a

your wife

if

you expect from the

will

not be impossible

she love you

Ah

This was the

if

"

you

insist

"

he replied, our women

are different to yours, they would not love anybody ;
look at your wife, she has travelled with you far

upon other wives

away from

her

stronger than

own
man's

country,
;

because you are with her

she
;

is

and

her

afraid

but our

heart

is

of nothing,

women

prefer to

be far away from their husbands, and are only happy

when they have nothing whatever to do. You don't
understand our women, they are ignorant creatures,

and when

their

but to work.

youth is past are good for nothing

You have explained your customs;
I

RHINOCEROS DISPERSING THE PARTY.

Seepage 387.

THE DUTIES OF HIS FOUR WIVES.

CHAP. XL]

women

your

are adored

265

by the men, and you

with one wife, either young or old

will explain our customs.
I have four wives
satisfied

has become

one

old,

here they

upon the sand with

water

bread

that

youngest, and

"
(he

now marked

the

corn

four strokes

carries

makes

this

does not do much, as she

my

as one

"This one

his stick).

grinds

the last

now

have replaced her with a young

are

all

are

favourite

and

if

the

is

they

the

neglect

a taste of this!" (shaking a

"
Now, that's the
long and tolerably thick stick.)
their work, they ^get

difference

between our establishments

adapted
your country, and ours
our
for
own."
for

yours is well
the best plan

is

would not contradict the sheik

the

English

was not the garment for the scorching

Soudan, and English ideas were equally unsuited to
the climate and requirements of the people.
The
great-coat

girls

were utterly ignorant, and the Arabs had never

heard of a

woman who

could read and write

they
were generally pretty when young, but they rapidly
;

grew old after childbirth. Numbers of young girls

and women were accustomed to bathe perfectly
naked in the river just before our tent I employed
them to catch small fish for baits ; and for hours
;

they would amuse themselves in this way, screaming

with excitement and fun, and chasing the small
fry

with

figures

their

long cloths

in

lieu

of nets

their

were generally well shaped, but both

men

and women

fell

off in

the development of the legs.

THE MAIMED, THE HALT, AND TEE BUND.

266

[CHAP. xi.

Very few had well-shaped calves, but remarkably

thin and cleanly formed ankles, with very delicately
shaped feet. The men were constantly bathing in
the clear waters of the Atbara, and were perfectly
naked, although close to the

accustomed to

women

this daily scene, as

we soon became
we do at Brighton
;

and other English bathing-towns.

Our

agreeable

ways

at "Wat el

life
;

the

people

Negur was anything but

dis-

we had
game

acquired great fame in several

that I shot I divided among the

they also took an interest in the

fishing, as

they generally had a large share of all that I caught

my wife was very kind to all the children, and to

women, who came from great distances to see

her and my character as a physician having been
spread far and wide, we became very celebrated
the

Of course

people.

maimed, the

much

with

halt,

was besieged daily by the

and the blind, and the poor people,
I

gratitude,

would

insist

upon bringing

fowls and milk in return for our attention to their

wants.

These I would never accept, but on

occasions,

upon

my

refusal,

the

women would

the legs of a bundle of chickens,

many
untie

and allow them

to escape in our camp, rather than be compelled to

return with their offering.

Even the

fakeers (priests)

were our great friends, although we were Christians,

and in my broken Arabic, with the assistance of

Mahomet,

At

first

used to touch upon theological subjects.

they expressed surprise that such clever
I

people as the English should worship idols

made

of

THE ARAB FAKEERS OR

CHAP. xi.J

PRIESTS.

267

wood, or other substances, by the hands of man. I

explained to them their error, as we were Protestants

who had protested against the practice

of bowing down before the figure of Christ, or any
other form
that we simply worshipped God through
Christ, believing Him to be both Saviour and MeI recalled to their recollection that Mahomet
diator.
in England,

and they themselves believed in

of

greatest

the

all

in

therefore

prophets,

the

as

Christ,

reality

so very wide a gulf between their

creed and our own ; both acknowledging the same

there

was not

God; both

believing in Christ, although differing in

the degree of that belief.

Mahomet

I allowed that

was a most wonderful man, and that, if a cause is

to be valued by its effect, he was as much entitled
to

the

name

of

Moses, the

as

prophet

these simple yet stedfast Arabs,

schisms, spoke
religion,

My

more with reverence

than

brothers," I

creatures,

created us

believing

and

all

with

in

the hosts

of heaven;

races,

are

acrimony of debate.
"

the

one

we

and we,

are all God's

Spirit

great

who made

our world,

striving

held the faith

to the great spirit

reply,

things,

we

call

the

would

dust that

and in

who

as

and uncorrupted by

of their forefathers untarnished

"

law-

Our arguments never became overheated,

giver.

of

first

this

who

atom of

a tiny star amongst

differing

in

colours

through our short

but

weary pilgrimage to the same high point; to the

same mountain-top, where we trust to meet when
the journey shall be accomplished.

That mountain

" ALL

268
is

steep,

or

path,
are

THE SANE WITH A LITTLE DIFFERENCE."

the

there

are

Shall

us to the top.

is

but one

there

and mine

Your path

many ?

but with

different,

desert

is

country

God's help they will lead

we quarrel over the well

upon the thirsty way ? or shall we drink

and be thankful for the cool waters, and
the

reach

upon the
the same

end

desert
sun,

by the

cooled

journey's end,

and

Drink from

we

thirst

exhausted

same

my

together,

the

by

night,

until

we

that

together,
strive

scorched

same

we

to

when

water-skin

and together thank

Mahometan,

[CH. xi.

by

simoom,

sleep

at

the

God, Christian

have

reached

our

home."

The good fakeers

tions, and they came
"

all

rejoiced in such simple explana-

to the conclusion that

the same with a

little difference,"

the best of friends with

a cure of their
that

all

the people.

Mahometan

souls,

thus

we were
we were

If not exactly

they acknowledged

held the key to their bowels, which were

entirely dependent

upon

my

of applicants daily thronged

will,

my

when

the crowd

medicine chest, and

dispensed jalap, calomel, opium, and tartar emetic.

Upon one occasion a woman brought me a child of
I

about fifteen months

with a broken thigh ; she

had fallen asleep upon her camel, and had allowed
I set the thigh,
the child to fall from her arms.

and secured

it

with

old,

gum

bandages, as the mimosas

afforded the requisite material.

About twenty yards

of old linen in bandages three inches broad, soaked

in thick

gum-water, will form the best of splints

THE CURE FOR FRENDEET.

CHAP. XL]

when

dry and hard, which in that

There was one
will do in about an hour.

becomes

it

climate

269

it

was obliged to leave entirely in the

hands of the Arabs, this was called "frendeet;" it
complaint that

was almost the

certain effect of drinking the water

that in the rainy

season

accumulated in pools

is

upon the surface of the rich table-lands, especially

the latter is a
between the Atbara and Katariff
;

market-town about sixty miles from Wat el Negur,

on the west bank of the river. Frendeet commences
with a swelling of one of the limbs, generally acthis is caused by a
companied with intense pain
;

worm

of several feet in length, but no thicker than

pack-thread.

The Arab cure

is

to plaster the limb

with cow-dung, which is their common application

for almost all complaints.
They then proceed to
make what they term "doors/' through which the

worm
able

will be able to escape

to find one

exit,

but, should it not be

they make a great number,

by the pleasant and simple operation of pricking the

skin in many places with a red-hot lance.
In
about a week after these means of escape are provided, one of the wounds will inflame, and assume
the character of a small boil, from which the head
of the

worm

will issue.

fastened

either

which

daily

in

the

is

course

to a small

This

is

reed

then

seized,

or piece of wood,

and most gently wound round,

of

about a

week,

and

the entire

until,

worm

will be extracted, unless broken during the operation,

in which case severe inflammation will ensue.

ARRIVAL AT KATARIFF.

2/0

[CHAP.

XL

was the 22d November, and the time was ap-

It

when

throughout the entire

we
country would be sufficiently dry to be fired
accordingly prepared for our expedition, and it was

proaching

the

grass

necessary to go to Katariff to engage men, and to

procure a slave in the place of old Masara, whose

owner would not

we were about

to visit.

the wild countries

her

in

We

therefore

mounted our

two days we reached Katariff, rather

than sixty miles distant. The journey was exand

horses,
less

trust

in

ceedingly uninteresting, as the route lay across the

monotonous flats of rich table-land, without a single
the long line
object to attract the attention, except
of villages

which at intervals

of

about six miles

During the dry weather (the present

a drop of water in this
season) there was not
Thus the cattle
country, except in wells far apart.

lined the way.

twenty miles of the Atbara were driven

within

every alternate day, that great distance to the river,

as the wells would not supply the large herds of the

although the animals could support life by

drinking every alternate day, the cows were dry

Arabs

this

upon the day of fasting;

amount of suffering.

Upon
ceived

arrival at Katariff

we were

by a Greek merchant,

nephew

of the good old

received

much

proved

certain

hospitably re-

Michel

Georgis,

man from whom we had

attention while at Cassala.

The town

composed simply of the usual

"
the market, or
straw huts of the Arabs
Soog,"

was a miserable

place,

THE NAEKET DAY.

CHAP, xi.]

was bi-weekly.
of

held here

is

most

known by

sheds,

the

"

journal.

Long rows

original.

open sheds, about six

these

also

the

"

Soog Abou Sinn."

extract an entry from my

name
I

was

Katariff

27 1

feet high,

of thatched

form a

squat with

dealers

The bazaar

street;

their

in

various

wares exposed on the ground before them. In one,

are Manchester goods, the calicoes are printed in

England, with the name of the Greek merchant to

whom

they are consigned

in another,

is

a curious

collection of small wares, as

though samples of larger

they are the dealer's whole

but in reality
stock of sundries, which he deals out to numerous
quantities,

purchasers in minute
cloves,

ginger,

orris root,

chills,

ing the

steels

shells,

lips,

all

of

files,

razers,

Mingled with

of

for colour-

cowrie

henna, glass beads,

Other

stalls

and other hard-

German manufacture, and

rubbishing kind.
stall,

antimony

for striking fire, &c. &c.

contain sword-blades,
ware,

cardamoms, pepper, turmeric,

like patchouli,

and

eyes

paras and half piastres,

sandal-wood, musk, a species

saffron,

moss that smells

lots, for

of the

most

these, in the

same

are looking-glasses, three inches square, framed

in coloured paper

contain

slippers, sandals, &c.

camel ropes and

scriptions that

bells,

Other sheds

saddlery of

all

are in general use, shoes, &c.

de-

but

the most numerous stalls are those devoted to red

pepper, beads, and perfumery."

Beyond the main

of miscellaneous

street of straw booths are

vendors

goods, squatting under temporary

SCENES AT THE FAIR.

2/2

CHAP. xj.

fan-shaped straw screens, which are rented at the

beneath
rate of five paras per day (about a farthing)
;

may be seen vendors of butter and other grease,

contained in a large jar by their side, while upon
these

a stone before

them

are arranged balls of fat,

Each morsel

are sold at five paras a lump.

is

which
about

supposed to be the
smallest quantity required for one dressing of the
hair.
Other screens are occupied by dealers in
the size of a cricket ball

ropes,

gum

mats,

leathern

this is

bags,

girbas

or

water-skins,

sacks, beans, waker, salt, sugar, coffee, &c. &c.

Itinerant smiths

repairing

spears,

are at work,
&c.

knife-blades,

making

with small boys working the

formed of simple leather bags that open

and close by the pressure of two sticks. The object

bellows,

that

draws a crowd around him

is

a professional

wonderfully witty, no doubt, as being

mounted upon a camel from which he addresses his
story-teller,

audience, he provokes roars of merriment;

yes,

his small

overhanging brow, large mouth, with thin and

and deeply dimpled cheeks,

combined with an unlimited amount of brass, comtightly compressed

lips

pleted a picture of professional shrewdness.

Camels,

cattle,

The

sale.

and donkeys are

average

price

for

exposed for
baggage camel

also

a hygeen, from thirty to sixty

is twelve dollars;
a fat ox, from six to ten dollars (the doUar
dollars
;

at four shillings).

Katariff

is

on the direct merchants' route from

Cassala to Khartoum.

The charge

for transport is

CUSTOM OF SCARIFYING THE CHEEKS.

CHAP, xi.]

a camel loaded

accordingly low;

with six cantars

(600 Ibs.) from this spot to Cassala, can be hired for

one dollar, and from thence to Souakim, on the Red
Sea, for five

dollars;

thus

all

produce

is

delivered

from Katariff to the shipping port, at a charge of

Cotton might
four shillings per hundred pounds.

any extent on

be grown to

this

magnificent

soil,

and would pay the planter a large profit, were regular

steam communication established at a reasonable rate
.between Souakim and Suez.

There

a fine grey limestone in the neighbourhood of Katariff. The collection of people is exceedis

ingly interesting upon a market day, as Arabs of

and some few Abyssinians, concenfrom distant points. Many of the Arab women
Tokrooris,

tribes,

trate

all

would be exceedingly pretty were their beauty not

destroyed by their custom of gashing the cheeks in
three

wounds upon

upon

this is inflicted

Scars are considered ornamental,

infancy.

of the

either side

women

their

much

are

disfigured

arms and backs

during

and some

by such marks

even the men, without

upon their cheeks. The inKordofan and Darfur, who are generally

exception, are scarified

habitants of
prized

with

as

are

slaves,

scars,

simple

invariably

but

by

marked, not only

cicatrices

above the natural surface by means of

into

the

wounds;

considered

these

raised
salt

high
rubbed

unsightly deformities

are

The
be great personal attractions.
are full of absurd superstitions ; should

to

Arab women
a woman be

in

an interesting condition, she

T

will

THE GALLA SLAVE.

274
creep under the
that the act of
legs will

animal.

[CHAP. xi.

body of a strong camel, believing

passing between the fore and hind

endue her child with the strength of the

Young infants are scored with a razor

down

longitudinally

and

back

the

to

abdomen,

improve their constitutions.

I

natives of Darfur

engaged six strong Tokrooris

who

agreed to

accompany me

for

five

months.

These people are a tribe of Mahometan negroes, of

whom

I shall

speak more hereafter

they are gene-

and courageous, and

rally very powerful

I preferred

a few men* of this race to a party entirely composed

Our great

of Arabs.

woman

slave

difficulty

was

to

grind the corn and to

to

procure

make

the

bread for the people.

No

proprietor

would

let his

upon such a journey, and

slave

on hire to go

was impossible to start

without one the only resource was to purchase the
freedom of some woman, and to engage her as a serit

vant for the

Even

trip.

this

was

difficult, as slaves

were scarce and in great demand

however, at last
I heard of a man who had a Galla slave who was
:

clever at

make

making

had been her duty to

in the bazaar upon market days.

bread, as

cakes for sale

it

After some delays I succeeded in obtaining an interview with both the master and slave at the same

time

the former was an Arab, hard at dealing, but,

as I did not wish to drive a bargain, I agreed to

the price, thirty-five dollars,

woman was

Barrake

7/.

she was

The name

of the

about twenty- two

PURCHASE HER FREEDOM.

CHAP, xi.]

brown

years of age,
rather

tall,

2J5

in complexion, fat,

and altogether she was a

and strong

fine powerful-

woman, but decidedly not pretty; her

looking

hair

hundreds of long narrow

curls, so thickly smeared with castor oil that the
in addigrease had covered her naked shoulders
tion to this, as she had been recently under the

was elaborately dressed

in

hands of the hairdresser, there was an amount of

fat and other nastiness upon her head that gave
her the appearance of being nearly grey.
I

now counted

out thirty-five

which

dollars,

placed in two piles upon the table, and .through the

medium of Mahomet I explained to her that she

was no .longer a
her freedom;

at the

amount that

sum had purchased

same time, as it was a large

slave,

as that

had paid,

main with us

expected she would re-

as a servant until our journey should

be over, at which time she should receive a certain

sum

money, as wages
met did not agree with

this

slave,

therefore he slightly

lation,

which

frightened

Same

like

me

it

in the trans-

The woman looked

conclusion

tell to

me

"Then have

"
!

im-

told

her.

replied the indig-

the kindness to repeat

what you said to her," I replied.

that slave woman same like master's word

in English

I tell

I tell

of address to a

Mahomet what he had

master

nant Mahomet.
to
"

altered

uneasy at the

mediately asked
"

style

I at once detected.

and

Maho-

at the usual rate.

in

her master one very good master, she Barrake

one very bad

woman

all

that good dollars master

T 2

SINGULAR MISUNDERSTANDING.

276
pay, too

much money

master's

she's

dog
hard

if
all

slave

work

good bread,

night, master

early morning, late in

day,

Now

bad woman.

she belong to master like a

make plenty

not

she

for such' a

[CHAP, xi.

take a big stick, break her head."

This was the substance of a translation of

dress

with

tinged

Mahomet's colouring,

ad-

my

as

being

more adapted for the ears of a slave My wife was

present, and being much annoyed, we both assured
!

the

woman

upon

that

Mahomet was wrong, and

his explaining to her literally that

lishman could hold a slave

that the

I insisted

"

money

110

Enghad paid

rendered her entirely free ; that she would not even

be compelled GO remain with us, but she could do
.

as she thought proper

that both her mistress and I

should be exceedingly kind to her, and we would

subsequently find her a good situation in Cairo in
;

the

mean time

she would receive good

clothes

and

Mahomet, much against his will, was

The effect was magical
obliged to translate literally.
the woman, who had looked frightened and unhappy,
This,

wages."

suddenly beamed with smiles, and without any warning she ran towards me, and in an instant I found
myself embraced in her loving arms; she pressed
me to her bosom, and smothered me with castor
oily kisses, while her greasy ringlets

face

and neck.

have lasted
" Caffa
proper,

How

I cannot tell,
"

Caffa

hung upon my
would

long this entertainment

(enough

but

was obliged

enough

!)

as

it

to cry

looked im-

and the perfumery was too rich; fortunately

MAHOMET'S EXPLANATION.

CHAP, xi.]

2/7

wife was present, but she did not appear to enjoy it more than I did my snow-white blouse was

my

soiled

and greasy, and

a disagreeable

for the rest of the

of smells, castor

compound

musk, sandal- wood, burnt

Mahomet and Barrake

who
Mahomet

only people
1

Ha

fault

"
!

You

is

one of your

is

shells,

this

enjoyed
"

exclaimed,

tallow,

and Barrake.
were the

herself, I believe,

really

this

event.

little
is

your own

upon speaking kindly, and

insisted

ing her that she

oil,

was

day

not a slave,

ivives

"
!

now she

tell-

thinks that she

This was the real fact

the

unfortunate Barrake had deceived herself; never hav-

ing been

free,

she could not understand the use of

freedom unless she was to be a wife.

derstood

my

course she

address

little

was disappointed

as
;

but,

dan, poor Barrake, although free,

rights

of a

proposal,
as

cannot be pressed

breach of promise

She had un-

and of

an action
in

the

for

Sou-

had not the happy

free-born Englishwoman,

who can

heal

her broken heart with a pecuniary plaster, and console

herself with

We
vants

damages

were ready to
complete,

six

for the loss of a lover.

having our party of serTokrooris Moosa, Abdoolahi,

start,

Abderachman, Hassan, Adow, and Hadji

Ali,

with

Mahomet, Wat Gamma, Bacheet, Mahomet secundus

total, eleven men and the
(a groom), and Barrake
;

cook.

When

half

whole country
denly made a

Wat el Negur, we found the

in alarm, Mek Nimmur having sudHe had. crossed the Atbara,
foray.

way

to

MEK NIMMUR

2J8

INFADES THE FRONTIER.

[CHAP. xi.

and plundered the district, and driven off large numbers of cattle and camels, after having killed a considerable

number

No doubt

of people.

the reports

were somewhat exaggerated, but the inhabitants of

the district were flying from their villages, with their

and were flocking to Katariff. We arrived at

Wat el Negur on the 3d of December, and we now felt

herds,

the advantage of our friendship with the good Sheik

Achmet, who, being a friend of

Mek Nimmur, had

during our absence ; these would

otherwise have been plundered, as the robbers had
saved our

effects

paid him a visit;

he had removed our tents and

baggage to his own house

had he thus protected our

Not only
but he had taken

for protection.
effects,

the opportunity of delivering the polite message to

Mek Nimmur

that I had entrusted to his charge

expressing a wish to pay

him

a visit as a countryman

and friend of Mr. Mansfield Parky ns, who had

for-

merly been so well received by his father.

In a few days the whole country was up. Troops
of the Dabaina Arabs, under the command of Mah-

moud Wat

Said

(who had now assumed the

chief-

tainship of the tribe after the death of his brother

Atalan), gathered on the frontier, while about 2,000

Egyptian regulars
attacked
united.
killed,
tains.

Mek

marched

against

Gellabat,

and

the Abyssinians and Tokrooris, who had

Several hundreds of the Tokrooris were

and the Abyssinians retreated

to the

moun-

Large bodies of Egyptian irregulars threatened

Nimmur's country, but the wily Mek was too

MEK NIMMUR'S

CHAP, xi.]

much
and,

they paid

Government from
as spies,

enemy's

tribute

his friends

the

to

Egyptian
they acted

their frontier villages,

and kept Mek Nimmur au courant of the

movements.
The Hamran Arabs, those
with

hunters

mighty

2J9

The Jalyn Arabs were

for them.

although

TACTICS.

and

Ishmaelites,

the

sword,

were

nominally

although

thorough

subject

to

Egypt; they were well known as secret friends to

Mek Nimmur, and it was believed that they conveyed information of the localities where the Dabaina
and Shookeryha Arabs had collected their herds.

Upon

Mek Nimmur had

these

unexpectedly,

a knack of pouncing

when he was supposed

to be a

hundred

miles in an opposite direction.

The dry weather had introduced a season of anarThe At bar a was

chy along the whole frontier.
fordable

in

many

places,

and

it

no longer formed

Mek

the impassable barrier that necessitated peace.

Nimmur

(the

ability of his

Leopard King) showed the cunning and

namesake by pouncing upon his prey

without a moment's warning, and retreating with

This frontier warfare, skilfully conequal dexterity.

Mek Nimmur, was most

ducted by

advantageous to

Theodorus, the King of Abyssinia, as the defence of

the boundary was maintained against Egypt by a
constant

guerilla warfare.

expeditions
against

on a large

retreated

to

had

scale

Mek Nimmur by

the Soudan

Upon
the

several

been

organized
Governor-General of

but they had invariably

the

inaccessible

occasions,

failed,

mountains,

as he

where

he

INSECURITY OF THE COUNTRY.

280.

had beaten them with

wreaked

[CHAP. xi.

and they had simply

loss,

vengeance by burning the deserted

villages of straw huts in the low lands, that a few
dollars

their

would quickly

rebuild.

Mek Nimmur was

most unpleasant neighbour to the Egyptian Government, and accordingly he was a great friend of the

King Theodoras

he was, in

fact,

a shield that pro-

tected the heart of Abyssinia.

As
at

Var

have already described, the Base were always

and as Mek Nimmur and
with everybody
;

were constantly fighting with the

Egyptians, the passage of the Atbara to the east
bank was the commencement of a territory where

the Abyssinians

the sword and lance represented the only law.

Hamran Arabs dared

not venture with their flocks

farther east than Geera,

Wat

The

on the

Settite,

about twenty-

Negur. From the point of

junction' of the Settite with the Atbara, opposite
Tomat to Geera, they were now encamped with
five miles

their

from

el

herds upon the borders of the river for the

I sent a

messenger to their sheik, Owat,

accompanied by Mahomet, with the firman of the
Viceroy, and I requested him to supply me with
dry season.

and guides to accompany me into the Base and Mek Nimmur's country.
My intention was to thoroughly examine all the
elephant-hunters

(aggageers)

great rivers of Abyssinia that were tributaries to the

Nile.

These were the

Settite,

Eoyan, Angrab, Salaam,

Kahad, Dinder, and the Blue

Nile.

If possible,

should traverse the Galla country, and crossing the

CHAP,

NEK NIMMUR SENDS ME HIS COMPLIMENTS.

xr.]

Blue Nile,

But

Nile.

281

should endeavour to reach the White

this

as

impracticable,

proper season for

idea I subsequently found

latter

would have interfered with the

it

my

up the White

projected journey

Nile in search of the sources.

During the absence of Mahomet, I received a very

polite message from Mek Nimmur, accompanied by
a present of twenty pounds of

with an invi-

coffee,

pay him a visit. His country lay between

the Settite river and the Bahr Salaam
thus with-

tation to

out his invitation

might have found

to traverse his territory

returned

my

salaams,

so far, all

it

went

difficult

well.

and sent word that we

in-

hunt through the Base country, after

which we should have the honour of passing a few

tended

to

days with him on our road to the river Salaam, at

which place we intended to hunt elephants and
rhinoceros.

Mahomet
party

returned,

Hamran

of

by

accompanied

whom was

nephew

of Sheik

Sheik -Abou

Owat

as

his

Do

Koussoul,

name

he

generally

went by the

"Abou Do/'

He was

long,

large

Arabs, including several hunters,

one of

too

splendid

in full

the

was

abbreviation

fellow,

little

with a light active figure, but

his face was
exceedingly well developed muscles
his eyes were like those of a
strikingly handsome

.above six feet

one,

giraffe, but the sudden glance of an eagle lighted

them up with a flash during the excitement of con-

versation,

which showed

little

of the giraffe's gentle

RODUR SHERRIF S WITHERED ARM.

J

282

Abou Do was

character.

party,

the others were of middle

exception

not

the only tall

of a

above

muscular,

little

feet

five

and

in

fellow

four

Jali,

of the

with the

who was

but wonderfully

inches,

expression

man

height,

named

[CHAP. xi.

regular

daredevil.

There were two parties of hunters, one under Abou

Do, and the other consisting of four brothers Sherrif.

The latter were the most celebrated aggageers among
the renowned tribe of the

grandfather

had

been

Hamran

mighty

their father

and

Mmrods, and the

broadswords wielded by their strong arms, had descended to the

men who now

of the ancient blades.

upheld the prestige

The eldest was Taher Sher-

second brother, Eoder Sherrif, was a very

small, active-looking man, with a withered left arm.

rif;

his

An

elephant had at one time killed his horse, and

on the same occasion had driven its sharp tusk

through the arm of the

completely splitting

rider,

the limb, and splintering the bone from the elbow-

an extent, that by degrees

the fragments had sloughed away, and the arm had
become shrivelled and withered. It now resembled

joint to the wrist to such

a mass

of dried leather,

without the

slightest

twisted into a deformity,

shape of

an arm;

this

was

about fourteen inches in length from the shoulder

the stiff and crippled hand, with contracted fingers,

resembled the claw of a vulture.

In spite of his maimed condition, Eoder Sherrif

was the most celebrated leader

in the elephant hunt.

His was the dangerous post to ride

close

to

the

THE AGGAGEERS.

CHAP, xi.]

head

the

of

lead the

to

while the aggageers attacked

provoke

the

elephant in pursuit,

from behind;

it

it

was

duty that he had met

of this

in the performance

and

animal

infuriated

and then

charge,

283

with the accident, as his horse had fallen over some

hidden obstacle, and was immediately caught. Being

an exceedingly light weight he had continued to
this important position in the hunt,

occupy
rigid

the

of

fingers

hand served

left

as

and the
a hook,

upon which he could hang the reins.

My battery of rifles was now laid upon a mat
they were in beautiful condition,
and they excited the admiration of the entire party.
The perfection of workmanship did not appear to

examination

for

them

interest

much

so

as

they thrust their fingers

they at

two

that

My

men

fell

kabeer,"

of a

by the

the

introduced,

rifle

in

is

true,

it

particular.

el

Jenna

el
is

Their delight

they

Mootfah

"

Mootfah
the

child

was made

exhibition of the half-pound explosive

which were duly explained. I

was an old elephant hunter, but

effects of

told

them that

that

(it

muzzle, until

was a " Jenna

"Sahe,

cannon).

they replied

easily

with that
it

"Baby," when, finding

be

very big cannon).

perfect
shell,

love

explained that

of

(child

in

the bores

of

size

down each

the

to

could

fingers

once

at

came

last

the

did not hunt for the sake of the ivory, as

wished to explore the

country

to

discover the

cause of the Nile inundations, therefore I wished to

examine carefully the various Abyssinian rivers; but

MIXTURE FOR BULLETS.

284

[CHAP. xi.

had heard they were wonderful sportsmen, I

should like them to join my party, and we could

as

both hunt and explore together.

knew every nook and

they

country as far as
that in the latter

replied that

They

corner

of

the

entire

Mek Nimmur's and the Base, hut

country we must be prepared to

they made a practice of showing no quarter

to the Base, because they received none from them
fight, as

thus

we

my

to

should require

which

rifles,

who were

the Base,

on the

7th of December.

was busily engaged

the bullet at the same time that

weight, but great caution

the

in

making

with an admixture of one

quicksilver to twelve of lead.

manufacture, as

pointed

bullets for the journey,

pound of

strong party.

explained were odds against

and we
without fire-arms

arranged to start together

In the interval

it

This hardens

must be observed

mercury, being

the

increases

heavier

in the

than

the lead, will sink to the bottom, unless stirred with

a red-hot iron

when mixed.

The admixture must

take place in small quantities, otherwise the quick-

exposed to a great heat.

Thus the molten lead should be kept upon the fire

silver

will

evaporate

if

in a large reservoir, while a portion of quicksilver

should be added regularly to every ladleful taken

for

immediate

use.

This should be well stirred before

poured into the mould. Bullets formed of this

mixture of metals are far superior to any others.
it is

My
pleted.

preparations for the journey were soon com-

We

had passed a most agreeable time

at

WE MAKE ARROWROOT.

CHAP, xi.]

Wat

el

much

shooting, I gained

having

made

Although

Negur.

much

had not had

experience in the country,

extensive

several

285

the

in

journeys

neighbourhood, and our constant conversations with

the

had somewhat improved

sheik

my

Arabic.

had discovered several plants hitherto unknown to

me, among others, a peculiar bulb, from which I

had prepared

excellent

This

arrowroot.

produced
several tubers resembling sweet potatoes, but exceedit was known by the Arabs
ingly long and thin
;

as "baboon."

I pierced

with a nail a sheet of tin

from the lining of a packing case, and quickly improvised a grater, upon which I reduced the bulb
This I washed in water, and

to pulp.

through cotton
several

cloth, it

The

hours.

when

was allowed

clear

strained

to settle

for

water was then poured

and the thick sediment, when dried in the sun,

became arrowroot of the best quality. The Arabs
off,

had no idea of

this preparation,

but simply roasted

the roots on the embers.

On

the 17th of August, 1861, accompanied

German

Florian,

we

from

started

Wat

by the

el

Negur,
and said good-bye to our very kind friend, Sheik
Achmet, who insisted upon presenting us with a
strong

but

exceedingly

light

suitable for camel travelling,

skin, that

we

angarep

(bedstead),

and an excellent water-

should be constantly reminded of him,

night and day.

Florian
suffered

weak

condition,

much from

fever

throughout

was

in

as

he

the

had
rainy

FLORIAN S HUNTER.
1

283

He

season.

bad

started under disadvantageous

he had purchased

stances, as

The

bargain.

tioners,

had

Arabs,

its

who

are

that could

circum-

that was

a horse

sharp

dealt hardly with him, as they

him a wretched brute

of

[CHAP. xi.

make no

practi-

had sold
other use

Of course they had imposed

legs than to kick.

upon poor Florian a long history of how this horse

in a giraffe hunt had been the first at the death, &c.
&c., and he, the deceived, had promised to shoot a
hippopotamus to give them in barter. This he had
already done, and he had exchanged a river horse,
worth twenty dollars, for a terrestrial horse, worth

twenty

piastres.

had never mounted a horse

Florian

as his shooting

now

had always been on

explained to

us,

in his lifetime,
foot.

This he

although the confession .was

quite unnecessary, as his

first

was made upon the wrong

attempt at mounting

side.

Throughout his journey to Geera on the Settite,

there was a constant difference of opinion between

him and
a heavy

his
fall.

new

purchase, until

Upon

we suddenly heard

looking back, I perceived Florian

on his stomach upon the ground,

lying before the horse, who was quietly looking at

like a spread eagle,

his

new

master.

torrent of

abuse

On

another occasion,

expressed

in

heard a

German, and

upon

turning round I found him clinging to the neck of

his animal, having lost both stirrups, while his rifle

had

fallen

beast,

to the ground.

whom

He was now

cursing his

he accused of wilful murder, for having

CHAP, xi.]

by a kick

replied

with a

would

stick.

find

it

ARRIVE AT GEERA.

287

to a slight tap lie

had administered

could not help suggesting that he

awkward should he be

obliged

escape from an elephant upon that animal

and

to

in

rough
be
where
would
ground,
good riding
and he declared that nothing should

difficult

essential

tempt him

hunt or to escape from any

on horseback, as he would rather trust to

beast

either to

his legs.

we bivouacked upon the

which had much changed in

arrival at Geera,

Upon

sandy bed of the

river,

Although much
superior to the Atbara, the stream was confined to a
deep channel about 120 yards wide, in the centre of
since

appearance

the

now dry bed

our

of

last

visit.

rounded

pebbles and

sand.

Exactly opposite were extensive encampments of the

Hamran Arabs, who were congregated in thousands

and the Atbara junction. Their

limit for pasturage was about six miles up stream
from Geera, beyond which point they dare not trust

between

this point

their flocks

We
by

on account of their enemies, the Base.

were immediately

number

Do, from

visited,

upon our

arrival,

of Arabs, including the Sheik

Abou

whom

T purchased two good milk

goats
us
accompany
upon our journey. I had already
procured one at Wat el Negur in exchange for

to

few

strips

of

hippopotamus

hide

for

making

whips.

Lions were roaring all night close to our sleeping place ; there were many of these animals in

FOLLOW A HEED OF ELEPHANTS.

288

this neighbourhood,

[CHAP. xi.

they were attracted by the

as

flocks of the Arabs.

On

the following morning,

Arabs
been

with a

arrived

that

report

an hours

with

my

men, accompanied

arrived

shortly

immediately started

sleeping-place.

had

elephants

drinking in the river within half

march of our

several

at daybreak,

by

Florian,

upon the tracks of the

and

we

herd.

had three Hamran Arabs as trackers, one of whom,

Talier Noor,

had engaged

accompany us through-

to

out the expedition.

For about eight

miles

we

through high-dried

grass

and

we

at

the

followed

spoor

thorny bush, until

length arrived at dense jungle of kittar,

the most formidable of

the hooked thorn mimosas.

Here the tracks appeared

wander

some elephants
having travelled straight ahead, while others had
While engaged in
strayed to the right and left.
to

determining the path of the herd, we observed four

giraffes at about half a mile distant, but they had
For
already perceived us, and were in full flight.
about two hours
tracks

we

travelled

upon the

circuitous

elephants to no purpose, when we

of the

suddenly were startled by the shrill trumpet of

one of these animals in the thick thorns, a few

hundred

yards to our

intensely hard
distinguish

crossed
fore

and

the

left.

and dry that

new

recrossed

tracks
in

all

The
it

ground was so
was impossible to

from

the

directions.

old,

which

there-

decided to walk carefully along the outskirts

TRACK UP THE ELEPHANTS.

CHAP. XL]

the jungle, trusting to

of

trance

by the

their

broken boughs.

fresh

hour we had

find

thus examined

289
place

of en-

In about an

two or three

miles,

without discovering a clue to their recent path, when

we turned round a clump of bushes, and suddenly

came
the

in view of

edge of

two grand elephants, standing at

the dense

thorns

having our wind,

they vanished instantly into the thick jungle. We

could not follow them, as their course was down

wind

we

made

therefore

a circuit to leeward for

about a mile, and, finding that the elephants had

not crossed in that direction, we felt sure that we

must come upon them with the wind

should they

was

still

be within the thorny jungle

was

certain, as it

With the

in our favour
;

this

their favourite retreat.

greatest labour I led the way, creeping

frequently upon

my

hands and knees to avoid the

hooks of the kittar bush, and occasionally listening

for a sound.
At length, after upwards of an hour
passed in this slow and fatiguing advance, I distinctly heard

followed

the flap of an elephant's ear, shortly

by the deep

guttural sigh of one of those

animals, within a few paces, but

screen

waited

of

jungle that

for

some

could

minutes, but

sound could be heard

the

so dense
see

was the

nothing.

not

We

the slightest

elephants

were aware

of danger, and

they were, like ourselves, listening

attentively for the first intimation of an enemy.

This was a highly exciting moment

should they
charge, there would not be a possibility of escape,
;

A TREMENDOUS

290
the

as

meat

[CHAP. xi.

hooked thorns rendered any sudden moveIn another moment,

almost impracticable.

was a tremendous crash

there

like

CRASH.

the

whirlwind,

crackling jungle.

and, with a sound

dashed

herd

through

rushed forward, as

certain whether they were

in

the

was un-

advance or retreat;
nose

upon a kittar
thorn, and tearing my way, with naked arms,
through what, in cold blood, would have appeared
sample of

leaving a small

impossible.
across

my

my

caught sight of two elephants leading

path, with the herd following in a dense
I

mass behind them.

elephant, simply

Firing

in

a shot

at the

endeavour

the

to

repeated with the left-hand

herd,

head

of

his

companion;

this

leading

check

the

at

the

barrel

him, and

staggered

threw the main body into confusion

they immediately closed up in a dense mass, and bore everything before them, but the herd exhibited merely
:

an

impenetrable

array

head

hind

wedged

quarters

was impossible to obtain

I was within fifteen
or shoulder shot.

.together so firmly that

of
it

paces of them, and so compactly were they packed,

that

with

all

their

immense strength they could

not at once force so extensive a front through

tough and powerful

For about half a minute

branches of the

checked,

might

they

dense

were

their

determination

to

kittar.

absolutely

and they bored forward with

in

the

open

all

their

road

through the matted thorns ; the elastic boughs,

bent from their position, sprang back with dan-

A CRITICAL POSITION.

CHAP, xi.]

and would

gerous force,

291

have fractured

the

any one who came within their sweep.

large elephant was on the left flank, and
of

instant this turned obliquely to the left

and

seized the opportunity,

an

shell,

explosive

trusting that

ten drachms

pound

verely,

the

in

of the

powder and a

strongest

the elephant

hand by

and

my

turned

sharp

cocked,

it

half-

round,

we both

however,

my

double

rifles,

This was done

Ali.

and, with

my

into

quickly pushed

baffled

herd

immense

ears

an elephant from the

its

down upon us with a scream

charged

rage.
"

was

Tokroori, Hadji

time, as

"

or myself;

seized one of

just in

One

of

us

she

must

have,

if

This was the

downright charge of an African

had seen, and instinctively I fol-

first

elephant that I

lowed
shot.

old

Ceylon plan of waiting for a close

She lowered her head when within about

my

yards,

and

fired

low for the centre of the

forehead, exactly in the swelling above the

the trunk.
dead,

the

flank,

the "Baby," loaded with

of

recoil

Eeilly No. 10, that

six

back

spun me round like a top it was

to say which was staggered the most se-

recovered,

miss

I quickly

shell,

difficult

of

an

for

"Baby," with

fired the

far

very

would penetrate beneath the opposite

it

The

shoulder.

aimed

skull

She collapsed

to

the

shot,

root of

and

with a heavy shock, upon the ground.

same moment,

the

thorny barrier

gave

fell

At

way

before the pressure of the herd, and the elephants

THE FOREHEAD SHOT.

292

the -thick jungle, through which

in

disappeared

[CHAP. xi.

it

was impossible to follow them.

I had suffered terribly from the hooked

thorns,

and the men

capital

my

for

trial

Tokrooris,

had been a

This

likewise.

who had behaved remark-

ably well,

and had gained much confidence by

successful

forehead

full

charge

but

shot
I

at

must

my

elephant when

the

confess

that

this

is

in

the

only instance in which I have succeeded in killing

an African elephant by the front shot, although
I

have

tried

steadily

the

experiment

upon sub-

sequent occasions.
Florian had
shot, as

not had an opportunity of firing a

had been in his way, and he could not

pass on one side owing to the thorns.

We
as

had very

we were

low.

I felt

not be far

little

time to examine the elephant,

from home, and the sun was already

convinced that the other elephant could

far

off,

after

"
having received the
Baby's"

half-pound shell carefully directed, and I resolved to

return on the
following morning with many people
and camels to divide the flesh. It was dark
by the

time

we

arrived

at

the

tents,

and the news

im-

mediately spread through the Arab camp that two

elephants had been killed.

On

the following
morning
arrival at the dead
elephant,
of that

bushes

we

started,

we

followed the tracks

wounded by the "Baby/'

guided

and,

upon

The blood upon the

us in a few minutes to the

where the dead elephant lay dead,

at

spot

about 300

THE HALF-POUND EXPLOSI7E SHELL.

CHAP, xi.]

The whole day passed in flaying

and cutting off the flesh, which

yards distance.
the two animals,

was packed in large

camels were loaded.
of the

effect

293

gum
I

with which the

sacks,

was curious

half-pound shell

it

examine the

to

had entered the

flank on the right side, breaking the rib

upon which

it had then passed through the

had exploded
stomach and the lower portion of the lungs, both
it

and breaking one

had lodged beneath

of which were terribly shattered,

of the fore-ribs on the left side,

it

This was

the skin of the shoulder.

irresistible

work,

and the elephant had evidently dropped in a few

minutes after having received the

The elephant

killed

by the

shell.
rifle

Reilly

No.

10,

with a conical bullet of quicksilver and lead, propelled by seven drachms of powder, had entered the
exact centre of the forehead of elephant No.

1,

and,

passing completely through the brain and the back

part of the skull,

we found

it

handy

they weighed

in the

These No. 10 Beillys*

spine, between the shoulders.

were wonderfully powerful

sticking fast

rifles,

and

exceedingly

fourteen pounds,

and were

admirably adapted for dangerous game. I measured

that
both the elephants accurately with a tape
killed by the "Baby" was nine feet six inches from
:

the forefoot to the shoulder, the other was eight feet

three inches.
*

They

Street,

are

It is a

now

in

common

mistake that twice the

England at Mr.

having accompanied

me

Keilly's,

No. 215, Oxford

my

expedition, and

throughout

they have never been out of order.

RECOVER

294

NY

OLD WOUNDED ELEPHANT.

circumference of the foot

there

is

[CHAP. xi.

the height of an elephant

no such rule that can be depended upon,

is

as their feet vary in size without

relative pro-

any

portion to the height of the animal.

most interesting

had occurred

fact

when

found the larger elephant, killed by the "Baby," I

noticed an old wound unhealed and full of matter
the bowels were

in the front of the left shoulder;

shot

and

through,

were

Florian suggested that

I

had wounded

course

the

of

at

silver

and

Wat

bullet

length discovered

it

green in various places.

must be an elephant that

el

most

Negur

we

carefully,

we

at

unmistakeable bullet of quickalmost uninjured, in the fleshy

lead,

imbedded in an unhealed wound.

Thus, by a curious chance, upon my

with African elephants by daylight,
the identical elephant that I had

Negur

until

my

part of the thigh,

el

tracked the

first

interview

had

wounded

killed
at

Wat

forty-three days ago in the dhurra planta-

twenty-eight miles distant Both these elephants

It was the custom of these active
were females.

tion,

creatures to invade the dhurra fields from this great

distance,

and

to return to these almost impenetrable

thorny jungles, where they were safe from the attack

of the aggageers, but not from the rifles.

On our return to
the women yelled

camp, the rejoicings were great;

as usual, and I delighted the

Hamrans by dividing the meat, and presenting them

with the hides for shields.
I gave Abou Do, and
all

the hunters, and

my

camel drivers, large quantities

CHAP. xi.J

FRATERNIZE WITH THE SWORD HUNTERS.

of fat

and

brother hunter

295

found that I was accredited as a

by the knights

acknowledged that

their

of the sword,

weapons were

the thick jungles of Tooleet, the

name

where we had killed the elephants.

who

useless

in

of the place

CHAPTEK

XII.

OLD NEPTUNE JOINS THE PARTY.

WE

started from

Geera, on

the

23d

of December,

The Hamran sword-hunters

with our party complete.
were Abou Do, Jali, and Sulieman.
My chief
was Taher Noor, who, although a
hunter, was not a professional aggahr, and
tracker

good
I was

accompanied by the father of Abou Do, who was

"
a renowned
howarti," or harpooner of hippopotami.
This magnificent old
himself;

he

grizzled locks

and massive

man might have

about

six

hung upon

his

stood

curls,

feet

been Neptune
two,

shoulders

and
in

his

thick

while his deep bronze features

could not have been excelled in beauty of outline.

.A more
the old

classical

figure

Abou Do with

have never beheld than

his

harpoon,

as

he

first

breasted the torrent, and then landed dripping from

the waves to join our party from the Arab camp

on the opposite side of the river.
In addition to

my
with-

to

had engaged nine camels, each

a separate driver, of the Hamrans, who were

Tokrooris,

accompany us throughout the

expedition.

These

THE ARAB CENTAURS.

CHAP, xiij

297

engage themselves with their

at one and a half dollars
(six

people were glad to

included

camels

shillings)

We

had not

sufficient

but four carried

and

horses

man and

month, for

per

beast

baggage to load

a large

supply of

as

five

one.

camels,

corn for our

people.

Hardly were we mounted and

fairly started,

than

our aggageers was dis-

the monkey-like agility of

played in a variety of antics, that were far more

suited to performance in a circus than to a party
of steady and experienced
reserve

the

strength

of

hunters,

their

who wished

horses

to

a trying

for

'

journey.

Abou Do was mounted on

horse, a grey

looking beast

a beautiful Abyssinian

Sulieman rode a rough and

while

little

Jali,

who was

inferior-

the pet of

the party, rode a grey mare, not exceeding fourteen

hands in height, which matched her rider exactly

Never was there a more
in fire, spirit, and speed.
perfect picture of a wild

Arab horseman than

Jali

Hardly was he in the saddle, than

away flew the mare over the loose shingles that
formed the ,dry bed of the river, scattering the
on

his

mare.

rounded pebbles in the

air

from her

flinty hoofs,

while her rider in the vigour of delight threw him-

almost under her belly while at full speed, and

picked up stones from the ground, which he flung,
Never were
and again caught as they descended.
self

more complete Centaurs than these Hamran

Arabs
the horse and man appeared to be one

there

WILD ARAB HORSEMANSHIP.

298

and that of the most

animal,

[CHAP. xn.

elastic

that

nature,

could twist and turn with the suppleness of a snake;

the fact of their being separate beings was proved

by the

sword while the horse was in

and

drawn

rider springing to the earth with his

difficult

ground,

full

gallop over rough

and clutching the mane, he

again vaulted into the saddle with the agility of a

monkey, without once checking the speed. The fact

had suddenly altered the

from a sedate and proud
character of these Arabs
being on horseback

of

bearing, they had become the wildest examples of

excited by
the most savage disciples of Nimrod
enthusiasm, they shook their naked blades aloft till
;

the steel trembled in

dashed

over

rocks,

their

and away they

grasp,

through

thorny

across

bush,

up and down steep inclinations, engaging

a mimic hunt, and going through the various

ravines,

in

acts supposed to occur

elephant.

must

my

admiration for

to

doubt

horses for

their

my

had only one

in

the attack of a furious

acknowledge that, in
their wonderful dexterity,

prudence.

had three

and,

if

the

of

began

excellent

Hamran

wife and myself; the

for each

spite

hunters

commencement

were an example of their usual style of horsemanship, I felt sure that a dozen horses would not be
sufficient

for the

not

moment

the

mad

work
to

before us.
offer

However,

advice,

as

it

was

they were

with excitement and delight.

raised their loud and shrill yell at
and
our party of about twenty-five persons,
parting,

simply

The women

CHAP,

DISCIPLINE OF THE GUN-BEARERS

xii.]

299

with nine camels, six horses, and two donkeys, ex-

German

with his kicking

giraffe-hunter, and attendants, ascended the broken
slope that formed the bread valley of the Settite
of the

clusive

Florian,

river.

There was very

as

was

it

their

little

game

in the neighbourhood,

and

completely overrun by the Arabs

flocks

and we were

miles E.S.E. before

we

march about

to

fifty

should arrive in the happy

hunting-grounds of the Base country, where we

were led to expect great results. Previous to leaving

Wat

el

had thoroughly drilled my Tokrooris

duties as gun-bearers, which had established

Negur

in their

well

discipline

with the elephants.

favourite

use

that

rifles,

each

man

in

exemplified
I

the

recent affair

had entrusted to them

and had instructed them in

paid

regard to the

particular

my

their
rifle

he carried, and, as several were of the same

they had marked them with small pieces

of rag tied round the
This esprit
trigger guards.
de corps was most beneficial to the preservation

pattern,

of the arms,

which were kept in admirable

order.

"

Mahomet, the dragoman, rode

carried

my

my

short double-barrelled

spare horse,
rifle,

his back, in the place of his pistols

and

slung across

and gun, which

he had wilfully thrown upon the desert when leaving

Berber.
As the horse was restive, and he had placed
the

hammers upon the

caps,

his

shirt

caught in

the lock, and one barrel suddenly exploded, which,

with an elephant-charge of six drachms of powder,

OFF GOES THE GUN, AND ITS MASTER!

SCO

was rather

within a

startling,

few

inches

and narrowly escaped the back of

ear,

Florian

possessed

single-barrel

[CHAP. xn.

of

his

skull.

which

rifle,

his

he

him through many

this weapon had become so fond
years of sports
of shooting, that it was constantly going off on its
declared

have accompanied

to

own

account, to the great danger of the bystanders,

we

and no sooner were

than

went

off

taneous feu
Its

well

off

on our journey,

abominable instrument in a sponde joi, in the very midst of us

this

master was accordingly off likewise, as his horse

gave the accustomed kick, that was invariably the

deed of separation. However, we cantered on ahead
of the dangerous party, and joined
until

we

the aggageers,

at length reached the table-land above the

Settite valley.

Hardly were we

noticed in the distance a flock of sheep

attended by some Arab boys.

Quixote

charged

the

started

aggageers

off

sheep,
in

full

frightened flock scattered in

all

lance

in

whom

while at
his

we

and goats

Suddenly, as
hand,

Don
the

and as the

gallop,

directions, in a

moments they were overtaken by the

of

than

arrived,

few

hunters, each

snatched a kid, or a goat, from the ground

full speed,

horse,

without

and placed
either

it

halting

upon the neck of

or

dismounting.

This was a very independent proceeding

but, as
the flock belonged to their own tribe, they laughed
;

had immediately
this was the Arab

at the question of property that I

raised,

and assured me that

custom of insuring

their

breakfast, as

we should

OMBREGA (MOTHER OF THE THORN}.

CHAP,

xii.]

kill

no game during that day.

mistaken, as I killed sufficient

301

In this they were

guinea-fowl to render

the party independent of other food.

In a day's march through a

beautiful

country,

sometimes upon the high table-land to cut off a bend

in the river, at other times

upon the margin of the

stream in the romantic valley, broken into countless

hills

and ravines covered with mimosas, we arrived

at Ombre'ga (mother of the thorn), about twenty-four

miles from Geera.

In that country, although unin-

habited from fear of the Base, every locality upon

the borders of the river has a name.
Ombrega, is

a beautiful situation, where white sandstone

cliffs

of

about two hundred feet perpendicular height, wall in

the river, which, even at this dry season, was a noble
stream, impassable
it

was

fordable.

bivouacked

(Rliamnus

in

except

at

certain places,

where

Having descended the valley we

the shade of thick nabbuk trees

lotus),

whose evergreen

forms a

foliage

pleasing exception to the general barrenness of the

mimosas during the season of drought;

We soon
arranged a resting-place, and cleared away the grass
that produced the

the

name

thorn

of Ombrega,

and

which had given

in a short time

rise to

we were

We were within
comfortably settled for the night.
the horses were
fifty yards of the river
luxuriating
in the green grass that grew upon its banks, and
the camels were hobbled,

to

prevent

them from

wandering from the protection of the camp fires, as we

were now in the wilderness, where the Base by
day,

LEOPARD SPRINGS INTO TUE CAMP.

302

[CHAP. xn.

and leopard by night, were hostile

The goats, upon which we deto man and beast.
and the lion

pended
care

for our supply of milk,

these were

picketed

were objects of especial

to

pegs

driven in the

ground close to the fires, and men were ordered to

We had three greyhounds
sleep on either side.
belonging to the Arabs, and it was arranged that, in
addition to these guards, a watch should be kept

by

night.

The dense shade of the nabbuk had been chosen

by the Arabs

as a screen to the camp-fires, that

otherwise attract the Base,

about the country

who might

but, as a rule,

might

be prowling

however pleasant

be the shade during the day,"the thick jungle,

and even the overhanging boughs of a tree, should be

may

Snakes and noxious insects genemany of these inhabit

rally come forth after dark
the boughs of trees, and may drop upon the bed of
avoided at night.

the unwary sleeper

beasts of prey invariably inhabit

the thick jungles, in which they

may

creep unper-

ceived to within springing distance of an object in

the camp.

We

were

fast asleep a little after midnight,

we were awakened by

when

the loud barking of the dogs,

and by a confusion in the camp.

the instant, I heard the

dogs, far

Jumping up on

away

jungles, barking in different directions.

in

the dark

One

of the

was gone A leopard had sprung into the camp,

and had torn a goat from its fastening, although tied
The
to a peg, between two men, close to a large fire.
goats

THE DOG CARRIED

CHAP, xii.j

OFF.

303

dogs had given cliasc but, as usual in sucli cases,

they were so alarmed as to be almost useless. We
;

quickly collected firebrands, and searched the jungles,

and shortly we arrived where a dog was barking

Near

violently.

we heard

this spot

the moaning of

some animal among the bushes, and upon a search

with

we

firebrands

discovered

upon the ground, with

leopard.

the

throat

its

helpless

goat,

lacerated

sudden cry from the dog

at a

and the barking ceased.

The goat was carried to the camp, where

by the

few yards

distance,

We

died.

but the

it

shortly

succeeded in recalling two of the dogs

third, that

was the

best,

was missing, having

We searched for the

been struck by the leopard.
body in vain, and concluded that it had been
carried

On

off.

the following day,

we

discovered fresh tracks

No

time was lost in starting,

and, upon crossing the river, we found that a large
herd had been drinking, and had retreated by a pecuof elephants at sunrise.

This

liar ravine.

which rose

like

through the sandstone rocks,

walls for about a hundred feet upon
cleft

formed an alley about twenty yards,

broad, the bottom consisting of snow-white sand that,
either

side,

in the rainy season, formed the bed of a torrent from

the upper country.

about

fifty

same

locality

trampled in

This herd must have comprised

elephants, that
for several

all

directions,

the higher land were

must have been

days, as

and the

uprooted in

in the

the ground was.

mimosas upon
great numbers

THE BULL ELEPHANT.

304

[CHAP. xn.

but after following upon the tracks for several hours

with great difficulty, owing to the intricacy of their

windings upon the dry and hard ground, we met

with a sign fatal to success, the footprints of two
In

men.

short

time

we met

men them-

the

two elephant-hunters who had followed the

herd on foot, with the sword as their only weapon
ves,

they had found the elephants, which had obtained

wind and had

their

retreated.

The Sheik Abou Do was

furious

the

at

auda-

two Hamrans, who had dared to dishunting-grounds, and he immediately

city of these

our

turb

ordered them to return to Geera.

In addition to the tracks of the herd,

seen that of a large single bull

now
we

carefully followed,

convinced

felt

and,

that

elephant;

after

many

was

still

he

we had
this we

windings,
within the

broken ground that formed the Settite valley.

some hours' most difficult tracking, Taher

who was
upon

all

After

Noor,

leading the

way, suddenly sank gently

This

movement was immediately,

fours.

by the whole party, and I

quickly distinguished a large grey mass about sixty

but

quietly

imitated

yards distant among the bushes, which, being quite

leafless, screened the form of the bull elephant, as
seen through a veil of treble gauze.
that

we

a party.
the

should
I

the

in a close approach with so large

therefore proposed that

way with

close to

fail

I felt quite sure

the Ceylon No.

elephant,

10,

while one

should lead

and creep quite

of the aggageers

THE FOREHEAD SHOT

CHAP. XIL]

FAILS.

305

should attempt to sabre the back sinew.

was

pered, that the sword

Jali whis-

high and
thick grass in which he was standing, surrounded

by thorns
me, and I

accordingly I

Florian

With

follow

to

difficulty,

upon

avoided the hooked thorns that

would otherwise

have

wind

the

told

forward.

crept

hands and knees,

and, with

useless in the

fastened

favourable,

my

upon
I

at

clothes,

length

suc-

ceeded in passing through the intervening jungle,

and arrived at a small plot of grass that was sufhigh to reach the shoulder of, the elephant.
This open space was about fifteen yards in diaficiently

meter, and was surrounded

He was

jungle.

ingly

for

upon

all

sides

a splendid bull, and stood tempt-

forehead

shot,

according

was exactly facing me

practice, as he

yards distance.

by thick

to

Ceylon

at about ten

Having been fortunate with the

front shot at Geera, I determined to try the effect;

aimed low, and crack went the old Ceylon No.

10 rifle, with seven drachms of powder and a ball

of quicksilver
in

the high

immediately
instead

and

obscured the

grass
after,

of falling,

For an instant the "smoke

lead.

effect,

but almost

heard a tremendous rush, and,

as

had expected,

saw the

elephant crash headlong through the thorny jungle.

No one was behind me, as Florian had misunder-

arrangement that he was to endeavour

I began to
to obtain a quick shot should I fail.
believe in what I had frequently heard asserted,

stood the

that the

forehead shot so

fatal

to

the Indian ele-

THE MOUNTAIN CHAIN OF ABYSSINIA.

306

had no

[CHAP. xn.

upon the African species, exI had taken so steady an

cept by mere chance.
aim at the convexity at the root of the trunk,

pliant

effect

that every advantage had been given to the bullet

but the

rifle

Ceylon had been almost

that in

had completely

tain at an elephant,

impossible to follow

quite

jungle of hooked thorns.

camp we saw
and

loes,

varieties

of

cer-

It

was

the animal through

the

On

failed.

way toward the

our

of rhinoceros,

tracks

buffa-

giraffes,

none of the

antelopes," but

animals themselves.

On

the

following

morning we

times fording the river to

was duo

course

avoid

After the

east.

started,

the

several

bends

our

three hours'

first

ride through a beautiful country bordering the Set-

which we several times descended, we

came in clear view of the magnificent range of

tite

valley,

mountains,
cerned

that

dis-

was the great range of Abyssinia, some

which exceed 10,000 feet. The country

we now
it

from Geera could hardlyJ be

this

points of

that

that

traversed was so

was devoid of

even the

totally

all footprints

sand by the

river's

of

side,

uninhabited

human

beings

that like

the

snow confessed every print, was free from all traces

of man.
The Base were evidently absent from our
neighbourhood.

We

had several times disturbed antelopes during

the early portion of the march, and we had just
ascended from the rugged slopes of the , valley, when
we observed a troop of about a hundred baboons, who

A HUNT AFTER A HERD OF BABOONS.

CHAP, xii.]

were gathering
us,

seeing

arable from the

gum

307

mimosas

they immediately waddled

"

off,

upon

Would

the lady like to have a girrit (baboon) ?" exclaimed

the ever-excited Jali
tive,

being answered in the affirma-

away dashed the

pursued, went off

was rough, being

finding

of broken

full

and

the

gallop

themselves

The ground

at their best speed.

with mimosas,

scantily

w ho,

full

astonished apes,

the

after

three hunters in

hollows,

covered

stupid

baboons,

instead of turning to the right into the rugged and

steep valley of the Settite,

where they would have

been secure from the aggageers, kept a straight course

before the horses.

the very

backs

It

was a curious hunt

young baboons were riding on

these

now going

were

holding

on to their maternal

absurdly

human

but, in a

followed the Arabs,

at

their mothers'

while

at

best

their

few minutes, as we

we were

all

the

in

full speed,

pace,

and looking

steeds,

the herd, and with great dexterity two

gageers,

some of

of the aglike

stooped

closely

midst of

falcons

from their saddles, and seized each a half-grown ape

by the back of the neck, and hoisted them upon
the necks of the horses.

Instead of biting, as I had

expected, the astonished captives sat

astride of the

and clung tenaciously with both arms to the

necks of their steeds, screaming with fear. The hunt

horses,

was

over,

and we halted

to

secure

the prisoners.

Dismounting, to my surprise the Arabs immediately

stripped from a mimosa several thongs of bark, and

having tied the baboons by the

X 2

neck,

they gave

THE PRISONERS.

308

them

merciless

[CHAP. xn.

with

whipping

coorbatches of hippopotamus hide.

that

their
It

powerful

was

in vain

remonstrated against this harsh treatment

they persisted

in

the punishment,

would

declared that the baboons

otherwise

bite,

but

they

if

well

whipped they would become "miskeen" (humble).

At length my wife insisted upon mercy, and the
unfortunate captives wore an expression of counten-

ance like prisoners about to be led to execution, and

they looked imploringly at our

which they

faces, in

evidently discovered some sympathy with their

fate.

They were quickly placed on horseback before their

captors, and once more we continued our journey,
highly amused with the

We

little entr'acte.

had hardly ridden half a

mile,

when

per-

ceived a fine bull tetel (Antelope Bubalis) standing

near a bush a few hundred yards distant.
Motion-

ing to the party to

the

little

Fletcher

halt,

rifle

dismounted, and with

endeavoured to obtain a

When

within about a hundred and seventy

yards, he observed our party, and I was obliged to
shot.

take the

shot,

although

could

have

approached
unseen to a closer distance, had his attention not

been attracted by the noise of the horses. He threw

his head up preparatory to
starting off, and he was
just
fell

upon the move

as I

touched the

trigger.

He

like a stone to the shot,

he regained his feet

but almost immediately

and bounded off, receiving a

bullet

rom the

in

speed he rushed away across the party of

full

second

barrel

without

flinch

A COURSE AFTER A

CHAP, xii.]

TETEL.

3C9

about three hundred yards distant. Out

dashed Abou Do from the ranks on his active grey
horse, and away he flew after the wounded tetel
aggageers

naked sword

his long hair floating in the wind, his

and

in hand,

heels digging

his

into the

flanks

of

though armed with spurs in the last

It was a beautiful course
of a race.
Abou

his horse,
finish

as

Do hunted

greyhound

the

tdtel

and taking advantage of the double, he cut

turned,
off the

a cunning

like

angle

followed

at

succeeding by the manoeuvre, he again

tremendous speed

over the numerous

inequalities of the ground, gaining in the race until

he was within twenty yards of the tetel, when we

lost sight of both game and hunter in the thick
bushes.

that

By

time

that

was brought

had

meet

to

my

regained

me,

and

horse,

followed

and the aggathe unwilling apes, were

geers encumbered with

to the spot, towards

already hastening.

which

Upon

my

arrival,

yellow grass beneath a large

and Abou Do wiping

wife,

found, in

tree,

the

tetel

high
dead,

his bloody sword, surrounded

by the foremost of the

party.

He had hamstrung

the animal so delicately, that the keen edge of the

blade was not injured

bullets

against the bone.

had passed through the

tdtel

the

My

two

first

was

having entered above the shoulder this

had dropped the animal for a moment the second

too high,

was through the

now

tied

the

and employed themselves in careform a sack from

skinning the te'tel so as to

iboons to trees,
illy

flank.

The Arabs

THE CRY OF BUFFALOES.

310

[CHAP. xn.

they had about half finished the operation,

when we were disturbed by a peculiar sound at a

the hide

distance

considerable

we knew

repeated,

an

in

of buffaloes.

to take charge of the game,

by Florian we went

In

was neglected, the aggageers

and leaving my wife with a

their horses,

men

few

which, being

jungle,

to be the cry

instant the tetel

mounted

the

accompanied
This

in search of the buffaloes.

covered with grass about

was reduced to such extreme

part of the country was

nine feet high, that

like

the

that

dryness

into

we brushed through

as

glass

stems broke

several

was open, composed of thorny mimosas

intervals

able

that a horse

speed,

if

We

at such

accustomed to the country.

it

had proceeded

wide

could be ridden at consider-

was the perfection of ground

and the chances were in favour of the

gether

pieces

The jungle

it.

Alto-

for shooting,
rifle.

carefully about half a mile

when

heard a rustling in the grass, and I shortly perceived

a bull buffalo standing alone beneath a tree, close to

the sandy bed of a dried stream, about a hundred

yards distant between us and the animal

had been

entirely destroyed

large herd.

my

at the

the grass

by the trampling

of a

took aim at the shoulder with one of

No. 10 Eeilly

ward

shot,

rifles,

and

and the
fell

buffalo rushed for-

about a hundred paces

beyond in the bush. At the report of the shot, the

herd that we had not observed, which had been lying

upon the sandy bed of the stream, rushed past us

with a sound like thunder, in a cloud of dust raised

CHAP, xii.]

J1UST

AND CAPTURE.

311

several hundreds of large animals in full gallop.

by
I

WE

could hardly see

them

and

distinctly,

waited for

a good chance, when presently a mighty bull separated from the rest, and gave me a fair shoulder shot.
I fired

but

made

and missed the shoulder

too forward,

little

still

shot

better

by mistake,

Keilly bullet broke the spine through the neck,

dropped him dead.

Florian,

as the

and

poor fellow, had not

the necessary tools for the work, and one of his light

guns produced no

Now

effect.

came the time

for

dashed Jali on his fiery mare,

the aggageers.

Away

closely followed

by Abou Do and Suleiman, who

in

a few instants were obscured in the cloud of dust

raised

by the

mount

retreating buffaloes.

horse that had been

my

As soon
led

as I could

behind me, I

followed at full speed, and spurring hard, I shortly

came
the

in sight of the three

not only in

aggageers,

but actually among the rear buffaloes of

Suddenly, Jali almost disappeared from the

dust,

the herd.

saddle as he leaned forward with a jerk, and seized

a fine

young buffalo by the tail.

Do and Suleiman sprang from
arrived just
fine

little

in

time to

assist

bull of about twelve

In a

moment Abou
and

their

horses,

them

in securing a

hands high, whose

horns were six or seven inches long.

pretty fight
we had with the young Hercules. The Arabs stuck

him

to

like

struggles,
ing,

we

bull-dogs,

in

spite

of his

tremendous

and Florian, with other men, shortly

secured

him by

lashing his

legs

arriv-

together

with our belts until impromptu ropes could be made

THE BABOONS TAKE LEAVE.

312
with mimosa

"bark.

we had

my

left

wife

now

[CHAP. xn.

returned to the spot where

and the

tetel.

found her

standing about fifty yards from the spot with a double

rifle cocked, awaiting an expected charge from one
of the buffaloes that, separated from the herd,

had

Mahomet had
happened to rush in her direction.
been in an awful fright, and was now standing secure
behind his mistress. I rode through the grass with
the hope of getting a shot, but the animal had dis-

We

appeared.

returned to the dead

our captive baboons

we had

them.

left

absence, and,

had escaped

te'tel

and to

but times had changed since

One had taken advantage of our
;

having bitten through his tether, he

the other had used force instead of

cunning, and, in attempting to tear

away from

con-

had strangled himself with the slip-knot

finement,

of the rope.

The aggageers now came up with the young bufThis was a great prize, as zoological specimens
falo.
were much sought after at Cassala by an agent from
Italy,

who had given

hunters, to

whom

contracts

I willingly

My

for a supply.

gave

my

share in the

animal, left one of their party with several of

my

people to obtain the assistance of the camel-drivers,

who were

not far distant in the rear; these were to

bring the flesh of the animals, and to drive the young

bull on the march.

We now pushed
at the spot

we were

to

on ahead, and at 5

on the margin
encamp for some time.

P.M.

we

arrived

of the Settite river at

which

THE VALLEY OF THE

CHAP. XIL]

313

SETTITE.

In this position, the valley of

the

Settite

had

instead of the rugged and

changed its character
broken slopes on either side of the river, ascending
:

gradually to the high table-lands, the east bank of

the river was low, and extended, in a perfect flat

an abrupt
the base had many ages ago formed
range of hills
the margin of the stream, which had washed this
enormous mass of soil towards the Atbara river, to
for

about

eight

miles,

to

the

foot

of

be

by the Nile

carried

Egypt.
flowed

for

in

deposit

Lower

During the rainy season, the river overits banks, and attained a width
in many

and seven hundred yards.

places of

six

was

and, having imbibed

rich,

a periodical overflow,

much

The

soil

moisture from

gave birth to thick jungles

of nabbuk (Rhamnus lotus), together with luxuriant
grass, which being beautifully green while all other
leaves

and

herbage

afforded pasturage
of wild animals.

it

were

parched

and

withered,

and shade that attracted a number

For many miles on

either

side,

was

fringed with dense groves of the

green nabbuk, but upon the east bank, an island
had been formed of about three hundred acres this
the

river

was a

perfect oasis of verdure,

covered with large

nabbuk

trees, about thirty feet high, and forming a

mixture of the densest coverts, with small open glades

of rich but low herbage.

To reach

this island,

upon
which we were to encamp, it was necessary to cross
the arm of the river, that was now dry, with the exception of deep pools, in one of which

we

perceived a

THE BULL BUFFALO.

314
large

the

buffalo

bull

As

hill.

stalked

this

drinking,

we descended

as

just

would be

[CHAP. xn.

close to

to within ninety yards, and

the larder, I
fired a

Eeilly

No. 10 into his back, as his head inclined to the

For the moment he

water.

fell

upon

his

knees,

but recovering immediately, he rushed up the steep

bank of the

island,

my

receiving

left-hand

barrel

between the shoulders, and he disappeared in the

dense covert of green nabbuk on the margin.
As

we were

to

he was close

camp within a few yards of the spot,

to home
therefore, having crossed the
;

we

carefully followed the blood tracks through

the jungle ; but, after having pushed our way for
river,

about twenty paces through the dense covert, I came

to the wise conclusion that

following a

wounded

it

buffalo,

was not the place for

and that we should

him dead on the next morning. A few yards

upon our right hand was a beautiful open glade,

find

commanding a view
by the largest nabbuk

of the

river,

and surrounded

trees that afforded a

delightful

shade in the midst of the thick covert.

This was

a spot that in former years had been used by the

aggageers as a camp, and we accordingly dismounted,

and turned the horses

grass.

to graze

Each horse was secured

leathern thong, as the lions

upon the welcome

to a

peg by a long

in this

neighbourhood
were extremely dangerous, having the advantage of

and opaque jungle.

"We employed ourselves until the camels should

thick

arrive,

in cutting

thorn branches, and constructing

THE ISLAND CAMP.

CHAP, xn.l

315

to protect our

zareeba, or fenced camp,

animals

during the night from the attack of wild beasts.

I also hollowed out a thick green bush to form

an arbour, as a retreat during the heat of the day,

and in a short space of time we were prepared for
The river
the reception of the camels and effects.

up immense

had

cast

had

collected,

and,

stores

of dry

wood;

this

we

by the time the camels arrived

with the remainder of our party after dark, huge

fires were blazing high in air, the light of which

had guided them

direct to our

heavily laden with meat, which

camp.
is

They were

the Arab's great

source of happiness, therefore in a few minutes the

party was busily employed in cutting the

flesh into long thin strips to dry
these were hung

whole

over the

surrounding trees, while the

fires were heaped with tit-bits of all descriptions.
I had chosen a
remarkably snug position for ourselves
in

festoons

the two

angareps (stretchers) were neatly arranged

in the middle of a small open space free from over-

hanging boughs near these blazed a large fire, upon

which were roasting a row of marrow- bones of
;

buffalo

and

tetel,

while the table was spread with

a clean cloth, and arranged for dinner.

The woman
regret that she

Barrake',

who had

discovered with

was not a wife but a

servant,

had

got over the disappointment, and was now making

dhurra cakes upon the doka this is a round earthen:

ware tray about eighteen inches in diameter, which,

supported upon three stones or lumps of earth, over

MAHOMET HEARS THE

316
a

of glowing

fire

LIONS.

embers, forms

[CHAP. xn.

a hearth.

of liver, well peppered with cayenne

and

Slices

salt,

on the gridiron, and we were preparing to

when a terrific roar within a hundred and
grilling

were
dine,
fifty

yards informed us that a lion was also thinking of

confusion of tremendous roars proceeding

from several lions followed the first round, and my
"
There is no danger
aggageers quietly remarked,
dinner.

for the

horses

wounded

to-night, the lions

buffalo

have found your

"
!

Such a magnificent chorus of bass voices

never heard

had

the jungle cracked, as with repeated

roars they dragged the carcase of the buffalo through

the thorns to the spot where they intended to devour

it.

to

That which was music to our ears was discord

came

to

What

for

country

Mahomet, who with terror in his face

"
us and exclaimed
Master, what's that ?

of

that

the night

master and the missus come to this bad

That's one bad kind will eat the missus in
!

Perhaps he come and eat Mahomet

This after-thought

was

too

much

for

him,

"
!

and

Bacheet immediately comforted him by telling the

most horrible tales of death and destruction that

had

been wrought by lions, until

Mahomet were completely unhinged.

the

nerves

of

This was a signal for story-telling, when suddenly

the aggageers changed the conversation by a few tales
of the Base

natives,

which

so thoroughly

eclipsed

the dangers of wild beasts, that in a short time the

entire

party would almost have welcomed

a lion,

TALES OF THE BASE.

CHAP. xii.J

3J 7

to protect them
provided he would only have agreed
from the Base*. In this very spot where we were

then camped,

a party of Arab hunters

had,

two

been surprised at night and killed

by the Base, who still boasted of the swords that
The
they possessed as spoils from that occasion.

years previous,

Base knew this spot as the favourite resting-place

of the Hamran hunting-parties, and they might be
not far distant now,

as

we were

in

the heart of

This intelligence was a regular damper

to the spirits of some of the party.
Mahomet quietly

their country.

retired

and

sat

down by

Barrake, the ex-slave

woman,
keep awake every

having expressed a resolution to

hour that he should be compelled to remain in that
horrible country.

The

lions roared louder

and louder,

but no one appeared to notice such small thunder

thoughts were fixed upon the Basd, so thoroughly

had the aggageers succeeded in frightening not only
Mahomet, but also our Tokrooris.

all

CHAPTER

XIII.

THE LIONS FIND THE BUFFALO.

EARLY on

the following morning the lions were

hundred yards of the

roaring, apparently within a

camp.

I accordingly took a Rcilly No.

and accompanied by

rifle,

still

my

to see these glorious animals,

10,

double

who was anxious

and who carried my

wife,

Fletcher No. 24, I skirted the outside of the

little

jungle on the high bank, on the narrow arm of the

river.
"We were not long in finding traces of the

lions.

broad

dried stream

sandy bed of the

where the buffalo had been

track

showed

in

the

dragged across to the thick and impervious green

bushes, exactly beneath us on the margin of the

hind quarter of the buffalo, much gnawed,

lay within seven or eight paces of us, among the
bushes that had been trampled down, and the dung
river.

of numerous lions lay upon the open ground near

the

place

of

their

concealment.

Tokrooris with us, carrying spare

We
rifles,

had
and

two
I

felt

sure that the lions were within the bushes of dense

nabbuk, which concealed them as perfectly as though

WE SEEK AN

CHAP, xin.]

behind a

closed

or four

three

INTRODUCTION.

curtain.

We

yards of this

suddenly we heard

approached

effective

the cracking of

lions feasted in their

den

319

close to us

screen,

within

when

bones, as the

they would

not show themselves, nor was there any

possibility

of obtaining a shot ; therefore, after ascending the high

bank, and waiting for some time in the hope that

one might emerge to drag away the exposed portion

of the buffalo, we returned to camp.

The aggageers had already returned from a reconnaisance of the country, as they had started
before

daybreak

search

in

of

elephants;

they

re-

ported the fresh tracks of a herd, and they begged

me

no time in accompanying them, as the

There
elephants might retreat to a great distance.
was no need for this advice
in a. few minutes my
to lose

horse

Tetel

was

saddled,

and

my

six

Tokrooris

and Bacheet, with spare rifles, were in attendance.

Bacheet, who had so ingloriously failed in his first
at

essay

by the

Wat

girls

el

Negur, had been so

of the

village for his

laughed at

want of pluck,

that he had declared himself ready to face the devil

rather than the ridicule of the fair sex

him
in

justice,

moments

he subsequently became a

and, to do

first-rate lad

of danger.

The aggageers were quickly mounted. It was a

sight most grateful to a sportsman to witness the
start

slung

of these superb hunters,

from

the

saddle-bow,

everyday occasion, now

left

who with

the sabres

though upon an
the camp with these
as

THE START OF THE SWORD HUNTERS.

320

simple weapons,

to

meet the mightiest

creation in hand-to-hand

the

hoofs clattered as

and

forded

the

river

current,

while

manes of the

horses,

rapid

and

horses'

the shingly beach,

through

the

on foot clung to

the

shoulder-deep,

those

xm.

animal of

The

conflict.

we descended

[CHAP.

the stirrup-leathers, to

to

steady themselves over the loose stones beneath.

Shortly after our arrival upon the opposite side,

we came upon numerous

(A. Strepsiceros) and
fire

at

antelopes

of the

tetel (A. Bubalis).

would not

we were

these tempting animals as

nellut

seeking

nobler game.

Tracking was very difficult ; as there was a total

absence of rain, it was next to impossible to distinguish the tracks of two days' date from those

most recent upon the hard and parched soil

the
only positive clue was the fresh dung of the elephants, and this being deposited at long intervals
;

The

rendered the search extremely tedious.

part

in

of the

we

many
Upon

at length arrived at a large area of sand

when
acres

the

river

was

was backed by a

arrival at this spot,

peared to

toil,

river

in the bend of the stream, that

flowed

greater

and, after

day passed
backwards and forwards several

fording the
times,

useless

know

the

was evidently over-

full

this

surface

forest of large

aggageers,

of

trees.

who

ap-

every inch of the country, declared

that, unless the elephants

had gone

far

away, they
must be close at hand, within the forest. We were
speculating

upon the direction of the wind, when

THE BULL ELEPHANT.

CHAP, xin.]

we were

surprised

the

by

clared

be the covert

to

minutes

later,

of the

bull

fine

sudden trumpet of an

from the

elephant, that proceeded

32J

forest already de-

few

elephant marched

ma-

herd.

In

from the jungle upon the large area of

sand, and proudly stalked direct towards the river.

jestically

At

a high

we were

time

that

stationed under

bank of sand that

had

been

cover of

left

by the

we imsweeping round an angle

mediately dismounted, and remained well concealed.
retiring river in

The question of attack was quickly settled the elephant was quietly stalking towards the water, which
;

was about three hundred paces distant from the

this intervening space was heavy dry sand,
jungle
that had been thrown up by the stream in the
:

sudden bend of the

river,

which, turning from this

swept beneath a perpendiof conglomerate rock formed of rounded

point at a right angle,

cular

cliff

pebbles cemented together.

I

proposed that

we should endeavour

to stalk the

by creeping along the edge of the

elephant,

river,

under cover of a sand-bank about three feet high,

and that, should the rifles fail, the aggageers should

come on

at full gallop,

the jungle

we

and cut

off his retreat

from

should then have a chance for the

swords.

Ali,

the

my
"

wind

the

way, followed by Hadji

head Tokroori, with a rifle, while I carried

Accordingly,

Baby."
fair,

led

Florian accompanied us.

we advanced

Having the

quickly for about half the

322

THE "BABY" SCREAMS AT HIM.

distance, at

which time we were within a hundred

and

fifty

had commenced

the water, and

at
110

who had

yards of the elephant,

crept cautiously

had decreased
afforded very

towards him

We

the sand-bank

Not a

shelter.

xm.

just arrived

drinking.

to a height of about
little

[CIIAP.

two

feet,

and

nor bush

tree

grew upon the surface of the barren sand, which was

we sank nearly to the ankles

Still we crept forward, as the

so deep that

at every

footstep.

elephant

alternately drank, and then spouted the water in a

but just as we had

yards, he happened to

shower over his colossal form

arrived

about

within

turn his head

perceived us.

in

He

his determination
I

our direction,

for

and

immediately
his enormous ears, gave

cocked

and

a short trumpet,

fifty

an instant he wavered in

whether to attack or

fly

but as

rushed towards him with a shout, he turned towards

the jungle, and I immediately fired a steady shot at

the shoulder with the

"

As

Baby."

with a half-pound
drachms of powder, nearly threw
recoil of the rifle,

but

saw the mark upon

usual, the fearful

shell

the elephant's

in an excellent line, although rather high.

efFect of the shot

wras

towards the jungle;

three aggageers

and twelve

me backwards

to send

him

shoulder

The only

off at great

speed
but at the same moment the

came galloping

across the sand lika

greyhounds in a course, and, judiciously keeping^

parallel with the jungle, they cut off his retreat >
and, turning towards the elephant, they confronted
liim,

sword in hand.

At once the

furious

beast

THE

CHAP, xni.]

FIGHT, SW OBD IN HAND.

very gallant, but

of leading

and

foolish, part of

the elephant by the

aggageers

at

the same

and

one

flight of

method,

all

man
the

moment sprang from

their

sand

they

in

foot

upon

Instead

the hunt.

to their usual

horse, according

saddles,

enemy; but now came the

straight at the

charged

323

the

heavy

attacked the elephant with their swords.

In the

of sport,

way

magnificent, or
torial

exhibition

surpassed
rage,

so

this

never saw anything so

absurdly dangerous.

Eoman

the

in

No

gladia-

arena could

have

The elephant was mad with

fight.

and nevertheless he seemed to know that the

was

object of the hunters

to get

behind him.

This

he avoided with great dexterity, turning as it were

upon a pivot with extreme quickness, and charging

and then at another of his

at one,

headlong,

first

assailants,

while he blew clouds of sand in the air

with his trunk, and screamed with fury.

monkeys, nevertheless
behind him. In the
forsaken their horses,

The depth of the

elephant, and was

Nimble as

aggageers could not get

the

of excitement they

folly

who had escaped from

loose
so

had

the spot.

sand was in favour of the

much

against the

men

that

they avoided his charges with extreme difficulty. It

was only by the determined pluck of all three, that
they alternately saved each other,- as two invariably
dashed in at the flanks when the elephant charged
the third, upon which the
relinquished the chase,
pursuers.

During

this

wary animal immediately

and turned round upon his

time, I had been labouring

Y 2

ABOU DO'S BLADE TASTES BLOOD.

324

[CHAP.

through the heavy sand, and shortly after

at the fight, the elephant charged

xm.

I arrived

directly through

the aggageers, receiving a shoulder shot from one of

my

Reilly

No. 10

and

rifles,

at

the same

time

from the sword of Abou Do, who, with great

dexterity and speed, had closed in behind him, just

slash

in time to reach the leg.

Unfortunately, he could

not deliver the cut in the right place, as the elephant,

with increased speed, completely distanced the agga-

he charged across the deep sand, and reached

the jungle.
We were shortly upon his tracks, and
geers

running about a quarter of a mile, he fell dead

in a dry watercourse.
His tusks were, like the gene-

after

of Abyssinian elephants, exceedingly short,

but of good thickness.
Some of our men, who had followed the runaway

rality

horses,

shortly

returned, and

our fight with the bull, they

reported that, during

had heard other

ele-

phants trumpeting in the dense nabbuk jungle

near the river.
A portion of thick forest of about

two hundred

acres,

upon

this side of the river,

was

a tempting covert for elephants, and the aggageers,

who were

perfectly cognisant with the habits of the

animals, positively declared that the herd

within this jungle.

we proposed to
which, as it made a

Accordingly,

skirt the

margin of the

bend

right

at

must be

angles,

river,

commanded two

sides of

reaching the jungle by the river side,

we again heard the trumpet of an elephant, and
about a quarter of a mile distant we observed a
square.

Upon

CHAP,

WE FIND THE HERD.

xiii.]

of twelve

herd

animals

of these

325
shoulder-deep in

the river, which they were in the act of crossing to

the opposite side, to secure themselves in an almost

The aggageers
impenetrable jungle of thorny nabbuk.
advised that we should return to the ford that we
had already crossed, and, by repassing the river, we
should most probably meet the elephants, as they

would not leave the thick jungle until the night.

Having
the

confidence

implicit
I

country,

followed

in

their

their

knowledge of
directions, and we

and arrived upon a dry

bed, banked by a dense thicket

shortly recrossed the ford,

portion of the river's

of nabbuk.
Jali

now

took the

management

of

affairs.

We

dismounted, and sent the horses to a considerable

all

distance lest they should

elephants.

on our

We

right,

by some

noise

disturb the

shortly heard a cracking in the jungle

and

Jali

assured us, that, as he had

expected, the elephants were slowly advancing along

the jungle on the

bank of the

pass exactly before us.

bed of the

river,

sounded closer

The

strip of

as

thick

We

river, and,

waited patiently in the

and the cracking

the herd

thorny

they would

in

the jungle

evidently

approached.

that

fringed the

covert

margin was in no place wider than half a mile

beyond that, the country was open and park-like, but
at

this

season

it

was covered with parched grass

from eight to ten feet high; the elephants would,

therefore, most probably remain in the jungle until
driven out.

Mil LEADS THE

326

PARTY.

[CHAP.

xm.

In about a quarter of an hour, we heard by the

noise in the jungle, about a hundred yards from the
river, that the

elephants were directly opposite to us.

instructed

accordingly

to

Jali

creep quietly by

himself into the bush and to bring

of their position

me

information

to this he at once agreed.

In three or four minutes he returned

he declared

impossible to use the sword, as the jungle was so

dense that it would check the blow, but that I could

it

use the

rifle,

as the

elephants were close to

us

he

had seen three standing together, between us and

I told Jali to lead me
the main body of the herd.
direct to the spot, and, followed

aggageers, with

of

my

my

dependable

by Florian and the

gun-bearers, I kept within a foot

little

guide,

who

crept gently into

and quite impenetrable, except in such places where elephants and

other heavy animals had trodden numerous alleys.

the jungle

this

was intensely

thick,

narrow passages we
advanced, until Jali stepped quietly on one

Along one

of these

stealthily
side,

and

immediately observed two

elephants looming through the thick bushes about
One offered a temple shot,
eight paces from me.

pointed with his ringer

which

floored it

quickly took with

on the

spot.

Eeilly

No. 10, and

The smoke hung

so thickly,

that I could not see sufficiently distinctly to

second barrel

turned
bullet,

before

the

fire

my

elephant had

remaining
but Florian, with a three-ounce steel-tipped
by a curious shot at the hind quarters, injured
;

the hip joint to such an extent that

we

could more

THE FOREHEAD SHOT FAIRLY PRO FED.

CHAP, xin.]

327

In a few moments
than equal the elephant in speed.
we found ourselves in a small open glade in the
middle of the jungle, close to the stern of the elephant

we were

following.

had taken a

fresh

rifle,

with

and hardly had I made the

exchange, when the elephant turned suddenly, and
Determined to try fairly the forehead shot,
charged.
both barrels loaded,

ground, and fired a Reilly No. 10, quicksilver and lead bullet, exactly in the centre, when
I

kept

my

make her

to

stagger backwards, when,

she again rushed on.

fired

the

first

my

effect

remaining

barrel

Checked in

shot.

forward,

was touch-and-go

Tin's

lower

little

her rush,

was

another

in

her immense ears thrown

moment, with

The only

four yards.

certainly within

but

than

she backed

towards the dense jungle, throwing her trunk about

and trumpeting with rage.
Snatching the Ceylon
No. 10 from one of my trusty Tokrooris (Hassan), I
ran straight at her, took a most deliberate aim at the
The only effect was a
forehead, and once more fired.
decisive charge

but before

Jali rushed in, and, with one

fired

blow of

my

last

barrel,

his sharp sword,

She was utterly helpless in

I had fired three
Bravo Jali

severed the back sinew.

the same instant.

beautifully correct

shots with

No. 10 bullets, and

seven drachms of powder in each charge

these were

so nearly together that they occupied a space in her

forehead of about three inches, and

all

had

failed to

There could no longer be any doubt that the

forehead shot at an African elephant could not be
kill

THE CHARGE OF THE PILLLANX.

28

relied upon, although, so fatal

the

increased

this

danger

[CHAP. xin.

to the Indian species

as in

tenfold,

Ceylon

had generally made certain of an elephant by steadily

waiting until it was close upon me.
I now reloaded my rifles, and the aggageers quitted
the jungle to remount their horses, as they expected
the herd had broken cover on the other eide of the

jungle
and,

if

which case they intended to give chase,

possible, to turn them back into the covert,
in

We

and drive them towards the guns.

accordingly
took our stand in the small open glade, and I lent
Florian one of my double rifles, as he was only provided with one single-barrelled elephant gun.
I did

not wish to
hinting

to

awkward
furiated

destroy the prestige

the

it

by
would be rather

us to receive the charge

for

as

herd,

but inwardly

come

aggageers

that

of the

the

I rather

so direct

foreheads

rifles,

of the

in-

were invulnerable

hoped that they would not

upon our position

the

as

aggageers

wished.

About

a quarter

of an

when we suddenly heard

excitement on

the

hour passed

a chorus of wild

by

suspense,
cries of

other side of the jungle, raised

by the aggageers who had headed the

In
driving them back towards us.
a tremendous

in

crashing in

herd,

and were

a few minutes

the jungle,

accompanied

the occasional shrill scream of a savage elephant,

and the continued shouts of the mounted aggageers,

assured us that they were bearing down exactly upon
our direction

they were

apparently followed even

CHAP,

Mr "BABY"

xiii.]

KICKS VICIOUSLY.

320

through the dense jungle by the wild and reckless

Arabs.

them

my men

called

close

and told

together,

and hand me the guns quickly

to stand fast,

and we eagerly awaited the onset that rushed towards

On they came, tearing everything
us like a storm.
For a moment the jungle quivered and
a second later, and, headed by an immense

before them.

crashed

the

elephant,

herd thundered

came

great leader

with right and

No. 10 as fast as

made

it reel

turned

left

into

The shock

an instant, and fortunately

My

my

second

made

a quick

two

fine

elephants,

and

stone-dead.

was pushed

from a Reilly

forehead

herd, likewise.

at the temples of

them both

for

At

The

us.

me, and was received

could pull the triggers.

beautifully handed,
left

at

in the

backwards

and the

it,

direct

down upon

this

moment

hand by Hadji Ali

rifle

right

was
and

dropping

the

"

"Baby

just in time

who had

to take the shoulder of the last of the herd,

already charged headlong after his comrades, and was

"
Bang went the Baby ;"
disappearing in the jungle.
!

round

spun like a weathercock, with the blood pouring from my nose, as the recoil had driven the sharp
I

top of the

hammer deep

into the bridge.

My

not only screamed, but kicked viciously.

I

knew

that

"

"

Baby

However,

must be bagged, as the

had been aimed directly behind the

the elephant

half-pound shell
shoulder.

Tn a few minutes the aggageers arrived

bleeding from countless scratches,

as,

they were

although naked,

with the exception of short drawers, they had forced

ABOU DO SLASHES THE SINEW.

,330

tlieir

way on

[CHAP.

horseback through the thorny path

the herd in rushing through the jungle.

by
had blood upon

cleft

Abou Do

They had found the

his sword.

xm.

ele-

phants commencing a retreat to the interior of the

country, and they had arrived just in time to turn

Following them at full speed, Abou Do had

succeeded in overtaking and slashing the sinew of an
them.

elephant just as

it

was entering the

aggageers had secured one,

jungle.

in addition to Florian's

elephant that had been slashed by

hunted

Thus the

Jali.

"We now

"Baby's" elephant, which was almost

immediately discovered lying dead within a hundred
and fifty yards of the place where it had received
for the

The

the shot.

and

it

had entered

shell

close to the shoulder,

was extraordinary that an animal should have

been able to travel so great a distance with a wound

through the lungs by a shell that had exploded within
the body.

We

had done pretty

well.

had been fortunate

in bagging four from this herd, in addition to the

single bull in the

morning

in the

by

total,

and the aggageers one

One had escaped that

killed one,
.phants.

shoulder,

five.

Florian had

total,

had

seven

ele-

wounded

and two that had been wounded

Florian.

aggageers were delighted, and they determined to search for the wounded elephants on the

The

the evening was advancing,

following day,

as

we were about

five

measuring-tape in a

miles from camp.

game-bag that

Having
was always

and

my
car-

THE BOAR WOUNDS

CHAP, XIIL]

lied

by Abdoolahi,
elephants that had

RICIL1RN.

331

measured accurately one of the

fallen with the legs stretched out,
I

so that the height to the shoulder could be exactly

taken
feet

From

one inch

foot to shoulder in a direct line, nine

circumference of foot, four feet eight

The elephant lying by her

inches.

side

but the legs being doubled up,

measure her; these were females.

larger,

We now

us

for

waiting

waterside,

the jungle, and found

left

and

in

the

we

bed

rode

of

the

towards

was

still

could not

our horses

river

our

by the
well

camp

with the day's work. Upon entering an

open plain of low withered grass we perceived a
boar, who upon our approach showed no signs of

satisfied

but insolently erected his tail and scrutinised

Florian dismounted and fired a shot,
our party.

fear,

which passed through

flying

off

at

chase

on

horseback,

full

his

speed.

and

flank,

and sent the boar

Abou Do
after

and

run

of

gave
a few

hundred yards we overtook the boar, which turned

resolutely to bay.

In a short time the whole party arrived, and, as

Florian had wounded the animal, his servant Eichavn
considered that he should give the coup de grace

but upon his advancing with his drawn knife, the

boar charged desperately, and inflicted a serious

wound

across

the

palm

of

his

hand, which was

completely divided to the bone by a gash with the

Abou

Do

immediately rode to the

rescue, and with a blow of his sword divided the

sharp

tusk.

OLD MOOSA THE SORCERER.

332

[CHAP. xni.

spine behind the shoulder, and nearly cut the boar

in half.

By

Kicharn was disabled for

this accident

some days.
our arrival at the camp, there were great
rejoicings among our people at the result of the

Upon

day's

Old Moosa, the

sport.

of the

half priest,

elephants

was

we

rather

beyond

in

should

fortune-teller,

our

in

absence

number

the

foretelling

of

His method of conjuring

kill.

and, although

mystery
might be simple to an
or spirit-rapper
he had never-

perplexing,

my

had

Tokrooris,

himself

employed

half

understanding,

English spiritualist
theless satisfied both

it

himself and others,

therefore

the party had been anxiously waiting our return to

Of

hear the result.

and of course he

course, old

preserved his

thereby
expected

to

find

following morning,

That night the

Moosa was wrong,

for
escape, and

had a loophole

wounded

our
if

dead,

by the

had

elephants

on the

flights of vultures.

serenaded us with con-

lions again

stant roaring, as they

The aggageers

reputation.

still

some bones

to

gnaw

of the buffalo's remains.

At daybreak the next morning, the aggageers in

high glee mounted their horses, and with a long
retinue

of camels,

knives,

together

the

flesh,

and men provided with axes and

with large

they quitted the

numerous elephants.

As

sacks to contain

gum
camp

to

had no

disgusting work, I took two of

my

Ali and Hassan, and, accompanied

cut

up the

taste

for this

Tokrooris, Hadji

by old Abou Do,

NEPTUNE AND HIS TRIDENT.

CHAP. XIIL]

333

we

the father of the sheik, with his harpoon,

started

of hippopotami.
along the margin of the river in quest

hippopotamus and crocodile

inches
hunting, is a piece of soft steel about eleven
blade or point of about threelong, with a narrow
and a single but
quarters of an inch in width,

The

for

harpoon

powerful barb.
nificant

twenty

To
a

weapon

this short

strong

feet in length,

a buoy or

float, .as

and apparently

rope

is

secured,

at the extremity of

large as a child's head,

insig-

about

which

is

formed of

an extremely light wood called ambatch (Anemone

mirabilis), that

is

about half the

specific gravity of

The extreme end of the short harpoon is fixed

the point of a bamboo about ten feet long,

cork.

in

around which the rope is twisted, while the buoy

end is carried in the left hand.

The old Abou Do being resolved upon work, had

divested himself of his tope or toga before starting,

according to the general custom of the aggageers,

who usually wear a simple piece of leather wound

round

the

loins

when

hunting, but,

believe in

respect for our party, they had provided themselves

with a garment resembling bathing drawers, such

as are

worn

countries;

had

in France,

Germany, and other

but the old Abou Do,

like

civilized

the English,

any such innovation, and he accordingly

and a
appeared with nothing on but his harpoon
more superb old Neptune I never beheld. He carried
resisted

this

weapon

in his hand, as the trident with

the old sea-god ruled the monsters of the deep

which
;

and

THE BEAUTY OF THE

334

SETTITE.

[CHAP.

xm.

Arab patriarch of threescore years and

as the tall

with his long grey locks flowing Over his brawny

shoulders, stepped as lightly as a goat from rock

ten,

to

rock

along the rough margin

him

followed

the

river,

in admiration.

The country was very beautiful

twenty miles of
of about

of

we were within

lofty mountains, while at a distance

were

miles

or forty

thirty-five

The

peaks of the Abyssinian Alps.

the

high

entire land

was

and adapted for huntThrough this wild and lovely

richly wooded, although open,

ing upon horseback.

country the river Settite flowed in an ever-changing
course.
At times the bed was several hundred

yards wide, with the stream, contracted at this season,

flowing gently over rounded pebbles the water was
;

at clear as glass

in other

huge masses of

places

rock impeded the flow of water, and caused dangerous

rapids
hills,

perpendicular

walled
it

then, as the river passed through a range of

it

cliffs

of sandstone

within a narrow

calmed

its

through which
issuing from these

fury in a deep

and broad

again commenced a gentle

sands and pebbles. At that season the

from which

it

have been perfection

rapids,

for salmon,

shallows, deep and

silent pools of

turnal rambles
beautiful

river

would

and quiet

in the latter places of

retreated after their noc-

upon terra firma.

river were

pool,

course over

being a series of

rocky gorges,

unknown depth

security the hippopotami

basalt

channel,

rushed with great impetuosity

straits it

and of

generally

The banks

of this

thickly clothed with

CHAP, xiii

BORDERS OF THE RIFER.

nabbuk

bright green

innumerable

were

forced

water within
long

guinea-fowl,

Herds

partridge.

among

trees, that

to

of

the

many

river

miles

that

leopards inhabited

and the black

francolin

of

varieties

antelopes

thick

the

formed a shelter for

to

many

drink,

the

as

only
but these never remained
as

nabbuk,
covert

the

and

lions
to

expressly

spring

upon the unwary animal whose thirst prompted a

Wherever there was a sandtoo heedless advance.
bank

basked in the morning

some of these were of enormous size.

in the river, a crocodile

sunshine

Hippopotami had trodden a path along the margin

of the river, as these animals came out to feed shortly

and travelled from pool to pool. Whereever a plot of tangled and succulent herbage grew
among the shady nabbuks, there were the marks of
after dark,

the harrow-like teeth, that had torn and rooted

up

the rank grass like an agricultural implement.

After walking about two miles,

we

noticed a herd

of hippopotami, in a pool below a rapid

this

was

surrounded by rocks, except upon one side, where

the rush of water had thrown up a bank of pebbles

and sand.

Our

old

Neptune did not condescend

bestow the slightest attention when I pointed

but
out these animals
they were too wide awake

to

he immediately

him

quitted

the

river's

bed,

and

we

behind the fringe of bushes

upon the border, from which we carefully examined
the water.
About half a mile below this spot, as

followed

quietly

we clambered over

the

intervening rocks

through

THE HIPPOPOTAMUS HUNTER.

336

[CHAP.

xm.

a gorge which formed a powerful rapid, I observed,

in a small pool just below the rapid,, an immense

head of a hippopotamus close

rock that formed a wall to the
above the

surface.

Abou Do, who had not

perpendicular

river,

about six feet

to

pointed out the hippo to old

seen it.
At once the gravity

of the old Arab disappeared, and the energy of the

hunter was exhibited as he motioned us to remain,

while he ran nimbly behind the thick screen of bushes

hundred and

yards below the spot

where the hippo was unconsciously basking, with his
for about a

fifty

ugly head above the surface. Plunging into the rapid

torrent, the veteran hunter was carried some distance

down

the stream, but breasting the powerful current,

he landed upon the rocks on the opposite side, and

retiring to some distance from the river, he quickly

advanced towards the spot beneath which the hippopotamus was lying. I had a fine view of the scene,

was lying concealed exactly opposite the hippo,

who had disappeared beneath the water. Abou Do
as I

now

approached the ledge of rock beneath

had expected to see the head of the

stealthily

which he

sinewy arm was raised, with the

harpoon ready to strike, as he carefully advanced.
At length he reached the edge of the perpendicular

animal

rock

his long

the hippo

hibiting

surprise,

had vanished, but far from exthe old Arab remained standing

No
unchanged in attitude.
figure of bronze could have been more rigid than
on the sharp

ledge,

that of the old river-king,

as he

stood erect

upon

'

'k.;i:i:

THE HIPPO

CHAP, xiii.]

HARPOONED.

IS

the rock with the left foot advanced, and the harpoon

poised in his ready right hand above his head, while

in the left he held the loose coils of rope attached
to the

For about three minutes he

ambatch buoy.

gazing intently into the clear

stood like a statue,

and deep water beneath

for the reappearance

the water was

arm

still

his feet.

of the

watched eagerly

hippo

the

surface

when suddenly

barren,

the right

of the statue descended like lightning,

shot

harpoon

What

the speed of an arrow.

to the

summons

of open jaws

the

into

perpendicularly

of

and the
with

pool

answered

river-fiend

In an instant an enormous pair

appeared,

followed

by the ungainly

head and form of the furious hippopotamus,

who,

springing half out of the water, lashed the river into

foam, and, disdaining the concealment of the

he

pool,

With

charged

straight

power

extraordinary

scending stream

the

up
he

violent

deep

rapids.

the

breasted,

de-

gaining a footing in the rapids,

about five feet deep, he ploughed his way against
the

broken waves,

spray upon
shallows
the

he

buoyant

surface, until

all

sides,

tore
float

he

them

sending

and

upon

showers

in

of

broader

gaining

through the water, with

'hopping behind him along the

along

landed from the

full gallop along the

river,

started at

dry shingly bed, and at length

disappeared in the thorny

nabbuk

jungle.

never

could have imagined that so unwieldy

an animal could have exhibited such speed no man
I

would have had a chance of

z

escape,

and

it

was

4 CHEER FOR OLD NEPTUNE.

338

fortunate for our old

Neptune that

the high ledge of rock, for

upon

if

[CHAP. XIIT.

was secure

lie

he had been in

the path of the infuriated beast, there would

have

been an end of Abou Do.

The old man plunged

quitted by the hippo, and

into the deep pool just

landed upon our side

moment
him a

waved

while in the enthusiasm of the

my

cap above

my

head, and gave

British cheer as he reached the shore.

usually stern features relaxed into a grim

delight

His

smile of

was one of those moments when the

this

rewards him for any risks.

I congratulated him upon his
but much
dexterity
remained to be done. I proposed to cross the river,
gratified pride of the hunter

and

to

potamus,

follow
as

would catch

upon

the

imagined

tracks

that

the

of

the

hippo-

buoy and rope

and that we should

in the thick jungle,

him entangled in the bush but the old hunter

gently laid his hand upon my arm, and pointed up
find

the

bed

of the

river,

would certainly return

to the

that

the

hippo

water after a

short

explaining

interval.

In a few minutes

we

half a mile,

the

jungle,

and

later,

observed

at

distance of nearly

hippo emerge from

descend at full trot to the bed of
the

the river,
in

making direct for the

which we had noticed the herd

first

rocky pool

of hippopotami.

Accompanied by the old howarti (hippo hunter),

we walked quickly towards the spot he explained
:

to

we

me

that I

must

shoot the

harpooned hippo,

as

should not be able to secure him in the usual

CHAP,

DEATH OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS.

xiii.]

method by

339

men were

ropes, as nearly all our

absent

from camp, disposing of the dead elephants.

Upon reaching the pool, which was about a hundred and thirty yards in diameter,

we were imme-

by the hippo, who snorted and roared

we approached, but quickly dived, and the buoy-

diately greeted
as

ran along the surface, directing his course

in the same manner as the cork of a trimmer with

ant

float

Several times he appeared,

a pike upon the hook.

but, as he invariably faced

a favourable shot;

round the

pool,

therefore sent

and

vanced to the opposite

tion* of the hippo,

him.

shot

he,
side,

swimming the

me

ad-

atten-

a good chance, and I fired

behind the

at

ear,

rifle.

alive,

about

As

seventy

usual with

he disappeared

The crack

beneath the water at the shot.

told

river,

and attracted the

yards, with a single-barrelled

hippopotami, whether dead or

ball

the old hunter

who immediately turned towards

This afforded

steady

could not obtain

us,

of the

and the absence of any splash from the

me that he was hit the ambatch

bullet
float

remained perfectly stationary upon the surface.

I
watched it for some minutes it never moved seve;

ral

heads of hippopotami appeared and vanished in

different directions, but the float

the

spot

where

the

grand

was

old

still

bull

it

marked

lay

dead

beneath.

thought must be
likewise dead and, taking the time by my watch,
I retired to the shade of a tree with Hassan, while
I

shot

another hippo,

that

Z 2

CHARACTER OF HIPPOPOTAMI.

310

[CHAP. xin.

Hadji All and the old hunter returned to camp for

assistance in

In a

little

men and

knives,

&c.

more than an hour and a

half,

two

objects, like the backs of turtles appeared above the

surface

these were

short time afterwards the

less of crocodiles,

was towed

two hippos.

the flanks of the

they

swam

men

arrived, and, regard-

towards the bodies.

One

by the rope attached

was
secured by a longto the harpoon, the other
line, and dragged to the bank of clean pebbles.
directly to the shore

measured the bull that was harpooned it was fourteen feet two inches from the upper lip to the extremity
I

of the tail

the head was three feet one inch from the

front of the ear to the edge of the lip in a straight

The harpoon was sticking in the nape of the

neck, having penetrated about two and a half inches
beneath the hide this is about an inch and three-

line.

upon the back of the neck of a bull

hippopotamus. It was a magnificent specimen, with
quarters

thick

the largest tusks I have ever seen

my

in

old

bulls

vicious, especially

when

solitary

quently

the skull

is

now

hall in England.

Although the hippopotamus

the

known them

are
in

is

generally harmless,

sometimes

the water.

charge

a boat,

extremely
I

have

and

fre-

have

myself narrowly escaped being upset in a canoe by

the attack of one of these creatures, without the
slightest provocation.

The females

are extremely shy

and harmless, and they are most affectionate mothers :

the only instances that I have known of the female

CHAP.

HABITS OF THE ANIMAL.

XITI.]

341

attacking a man, have been those in which her calf

had been

stolen.

To the Arabs they

are extremely

valuable, yielding, in addition to a large quantity of

about two hundred pounds of fat,

a hide that will produce about two hundred

excellent flesh,

ind

coorbatches, or camel whips.

useful creatures to waste

have never shot these

every morsel of the flesh

has been stored either by the natives or for our

use

own

and whenever we have had a good supply of

antelope or giraffe meat, I have avoided firing a shot

at the hippo.

Elephant

flesh is

exceedingly strong

and disagreeable, partaking highly of the peculiar

smell of the animal.
We had now a good supply
of meat from the two hippopotami, which delighted
our

people.

The old Abou Do claimed the

that he had harpooned, as his

own

and he took the greatest pains

bull

private property,

in dividing the hide

longitudinally, in strips of the width of three fingers,

which he cut with great dexterity.

the

hippopotamus is amphibious, he
the
requires a large and constant supply of air
lungs are of enormous size, and he invariably in-

Although

them

flates

minutes

water

the air
fills

is

before

diving.

From

five

to

eight

the time that he usually remains under

he then comes to the surface, and expends

he again rewithin his lungs by blowing
;

the lungs almost instantaneously, and

if

fright-

In places where they

ened, he sinks immediately.
have become extremely shy from being hunted, or
fired at, they seldom expose the head above the

ACTITITT OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS.

342

[CHAP.

xm.

but merely protrude the nose to breathe

through the nostrils ; it is then impossible to shoot
them. Their food consists of aquatic plants, and
surface,

grasses

of

visit the

many

descriptions.

margin of the

river,

Not only do they

but they wander at

night to great distances from the water

if

attracted

by good pasturage, and, although clumsy and ungainly in appearance, they clamber

up

steep banks

and precipitous ravines with astonishing power and

In places where they are perfectly undisease.
turbed,, they not only enjoy themselves in the sun-

shine

by basking

half asleep

the water, but they

shady

trees,

when

surface of

upon the

upon the shore beneath the

I have seen
upon the river's bank
lie

by our sudden arrival during

the march, take a leap from a bank about twenty
them,

disturbed

feet perpendicular

depth into the water below, with

a splash that has created waves in the quiet pool,

as though a paddle-steamer had passed by.
The
Arabs attached no .value to the tusks ; these are far

more valuable than elephant

by

dentists in

teeth,

for

Europe
which they

for the

are

they do not change colour.

the remaining

ivory,

manufacture of

false

admirably adapted, as

Not wishing

hippopotami that

my men

and are used

were

to destroy

still

within

and old Abou Do busily

engaged in arranging the meat, and I walked quietly
homeward.
the pool, I

left

CHAPTER

XIV.

A FOREBODING OF

HAD been

EVIL.

some hours in the camp, but none

of the aggageers had returned, neither had we reI

for

of our

ceived any tidings

had

us

left

at

daybreak

people and camels that

to

search

for

dead

the

Fearing that some mishap might have

occurred in a collision with the Base, I anxiously
looked out for some sign of the party. At about
elephants.

P.M.

several

up the bed of the

men, some mounted, and others upon
I

observed

far

river
foot,

while one led a camel with a curious-looking load.

Upon a nearer approach I could distinguish some

upon the camel's back, that was steadied

by two men, one of whom walked on either side.
I had a foreboding that something was wrong, and
large object

in a few

minutes

upon a make-shift
the Sheik

litter, carried

man

lying

the camel, while

by
Abou Do and Suleiman accompanied

party upon horseback

mare.

clearly perceived a

a third led Jali's

little

the

grey

JAIVS THIGH

344

upon
plucky and
upon the

[CHAP. xiv.

bank

arrived beneath the high

They soon
river

TS BROKEN.

which
active

garep, which I

lay,

ally,

We

litter.

had

Poor

stood.

as

little

dead

thought,

by four men,

raised

my

Jali,

him gently upon

laid

of the

my

an-

so that

we

him gradually from the kneeling camel,

and we carried him to the camp, about thirty yards
could lower

He was

distant.

of peppermint

faint,

(the

and

only

poured some essence

spirit

possessed)

down

which quickly revived him. His thigh

was broken about eight inches above the knee, but
his

throat,

was a simple

it

fortunately

Abou Do now

fracture.

explained the cause of the accident.

While the party of camel-men and others were engaged in cutting up the dead elephants, the three
aggageers

had found the track of a

escaped wounded.

bull that

had

In that country, where there was

no drop of water upon the east bank of the Settite

for

river

distance

Gash,

of

sixty

an elephant

or
if

seventy miles to

wounded was

the

afraid to

one of our escaped elephants had therefore returned to the thick jungle,
and was tracked by the aggageers to a position
trust itself to the interior

within two
elephants.
geers,

or

As

utterly

hundred yards of the dead

there were no guns, two of the aggathree

reckless

of consequences, resolved to

narrow passages formed by the

large game, and to take their chance with the eleJali, as usual, was the first
phant, sword in hand.

ride

through the

to lead,

and upon

his little grey

mare he advanced

ABOU DO SAFES JAIL

CHAP, xiv.]

345

with the greatest difficulty through the entangled

to
thorns, broken by the passage of heavy game
;

the right and left of the passage

to

move.

Suleiman

Abou

Do had

followed

Jali.

it

arriving

which was

few yards of the

elephant,

the thick thorns,

Abou Do

but

dismounted,

wisely

Upon

was impossible
within

invisible in

crept forward on

foot,

standing with ears cocked, evidently

As Jali followed on his light
waiting for the attack.
grey mare, the elephant immediately perceived the

and discovered

it

white colour, and at once charged forward. Escape

was next to impossible Jali turned his mare sharp
:

round, and she bounded

the mare

but caught in the thorns,

off,

throwing her rider in the path of the

elephant that was within a few feet behind, in full
chase. The mare recovered herself in an instant, and
fell,

rushed away

the elephant,

occupied by the white

colour of the animal, neglected the man,

upon

whom

he trod in the pursuit, thus breaking his thigh. Abou

Do, who had been between the elephant and Jali,

had wisely jumped

into the thick thorns, and, as the

he again sprang out behind,

and followed with his drawn sword, but too late
elephant passed him,

to

save Jali,

Jumping over

as

it

Jali's

deliver a tremendous
elephant, that

was the

affair

of

an

instant.

body, he was just in time

cut

at the

must otherwise have

hind leg

to

of the

killed bo'th horses

most probably Suleiman also, as the three were

caught in a cul de sac in a passage that had no
outlet, and were at the elephant's mercy.

.and

EXTRAORDINARY DEXTERITY.

S46

Abou Do seldom

failed

it

was a

[CHAP. xiv.

difficult feat to

narrow jungle passage

speed, but the blow was

strike correctly in the

the elephant in full

given, and the back sinew was divided.

tent with the

of the

success

cut,

witli

fairly

Not con-

he immediately

repeated the stroke upon the other leg, as he feared

that the elephant, although disabled from rapid

mo-

might turn and trample Jali. The extraordinary dexterity and courage required to effect this
can hardly be appreciated by those who have never

tion,

but the extreme agility,

hunted a wild elephant
pluck, and audacity of these Hamran sword- hunters
;

surpass

all

feats that I

I set Jali's

have ever witnessed.

broken thigh, and employed myself

making splints
fortunately my
I
and
selected
some pieces
hand,
:

had been

was

tool-chest

wood

of dry

in

at

that

on the bank by the retiring river. I

made two splints, one with a crutch to fit beneath
left

the arm, this I carried to about three inches beyond

the foot,

bandage

and cut a V-shaped notch to secure the

the other was a common short splint about

eighteen inches long.

sixty yards

My

wife quickly

made about

of bandages, while Barrake,

prepared thick

gum

water, from

gum

the maid,

arabic, that the

mimosas produced in unlimited quantity.

the long splint under the arm, and keeping
the

outside

straight,

the

thigh, with the

I lashed the foot

Y-shaped notch
of

the

of

splint

leg

Fixing
it

upon

perfectly

and ankle securely

to the

then strapped the upper portion

with bandages passed around the
I

JUNGLE SURGERY.

CHAP, xiv.]

until
patient's chest,

347

he was swathed from beneath

the arms to the hips, thus securing the splint to his

body.

The

thigh,

and

from the fork to

entire leg

the ankle, I carefully secured to the long splint with

three rows of bandages, the

first plain,

and the

last

two layers were soaked in thick gum-water. When

these became dry and hard, they formed a case like
an armour of pasteboard previous to bandaging the
limb in splints, I had bathed it for some hours with
;

cold applications.

On

the following morning I expected to find

patient in great pain

plained very

little.

my

but, on the contrary, he comHis pulse was good, and there

gave him some

and the only anxiety that he excooling medicine
pressed was the wish to get well immediately, so as

was very

swelling or heat.

little

to continue the expedition.

The Arabs thought that

man

could

mend

the leg of

though it were the broken stock of a gun,

that would be serviceable immediately when repaired.
As these people never use spirituous liquors, they
a

are

as

very

little

to inflammation,

subject

recover quickly from

and they

wounds that would be

serious

attended to Jali for four days. He

was a very grateful, but unruly patient, as he had
never been accustomed to remain quiet.
At the

to Europeans.

end of that time we

an angarep comfortably upon a camel, upon which he was transported to Geera, in company with a long string of
arranged

camels, heavily laden with dried

of hide for shields, with

meat and squares

large bundles of hippopo-

WE LOSE OUR BEST NAN.

348

tamus

skin

various

making, together with the

the chase.
Last, but not least,

for

whip

of

spoils

[CHAP. xiv.

were numerous leathern pots of fat that had been

boiled down from elephants and hippopotami.

The camels were

with

of corn

supplies

return

to

our

for

soon as possible

as

people and

horses.

Another elephant-hunter was to be sent to us in

the place of Jali
but I felt that we had lost our
;

best

man.*

Although
spirits

up

my

had been

people

to this time,

in

the

highest

a gloom had been thrown

over the party by two causes

and

Jali's accident,

the fresh footmarks of the Base that had been dis-

covered upon the sand by the margin of the river.

The aggageers

feared

nothing, and

if

the Base had

been legions of demons they would have faced them,

sword in hand, with the greatest pleasure. But my
Tokrooris,
so

who were brave

cowed by the

in

some

respects,

had been

horrible stories recounted of these

common

enemies at the nightly camp-fires by the

liamran Arabs, that they were seized with a panic,

and resolved

to

desert

en

masse,

and return

to

had originally engaged them, and

which place they had left their families.
This desertion having been planned, they came

Katariff,

at

to

me

where

in a body, just as the camels

and

Jali

were

about to depart, and commenced a series of absurd

excuses for their intended desertion.

The

old grey-

headed Moosa, by whose fortune-telling and sorcery

* I heard from Jali six weeks
later; he was then well, and offered
to rejoin us shortly, but I declined to risk the strength of his leg.

Ml'

CHAP, xiv.]

TOKROORIS DETERMINE TO DESERT.

349

the party were invariably guided, had foretold

evil.

This had confirmed them in their determination to

They were not a bad

return home.

most of their

but, like

they required peculiar

class,

If natives are driven,

management,

hate their master, and turn sulky

to

lose

them, they

They

are

under

As

unreasonable.
entirely

subject
of

influence

the

and

respect,

exceedingly

set of fellows,

if

will

you give

they

in

never obey.

sudden

to

which

they invariably

impulses,

are

utterly

the expedition depends for success

upon the union of the party,

it

is

highly

necessary to obtain so complete a control over every

individual,

that the leader

shall

be regarded with

and his authority in al] matters

To gain such a complete
supreme.

positive reverence,
as

accepted

ascendancy is a work of time, and is no easy matter,

as an extreme amount of tact and judgment is necessary, combined with great kindness and common
with, at

sense,

times,

great

severity.

should be avoided as long as possible.

In this instance, the desertion of

The

my

latter

Tokrooris

would have been a great blow to my expedition,

it was necessary to have a division of
parties.
had

now

Tokrooris,

Jaleens,

and

Hamran

as
1

Arabs.

Thus they would never unite together, and I was

certain to have some upon my side in a difficulty.
Should

lose

would have the

The whole

me and my

of

the

Tokrooris,

the

Hamran

Arabs

entire preponderance.

my

Tokrooris formed in line before

wife, just as the camels

were about to

350

4.

leave

LITTLE DIPLOMACY IS REqUIRED.

man had

each

[CHAP. xiv.

bundle prepared for

his little

Old Moosa was the spokeshe said that they were all very sorry; that

on a journey.

starting

man,

they regretted exceedingly the necessity of leaving

us, but some of them were sick, and they would

burden

only be a

the

to

expedition

one

that

them was bound upon a pilgrimage to Mecca,

and that God would punish him should he neglect
others had not left any money
this great duty
of

with their families in Katariff, that would

absence.

their

in

of wages,

against

good

fellows,

this

the

pro"

replied

to

hear

all

My

very sorry
comes upon me so suddenly
those
"
stand upon one side
(several inthis,

sick,

"Who

left).

to

Katariff,

difficulty.)

who looked remarkably

valids,

at

am

especially as it

are

had given them an advance

when they engaged

vide

who

(I

starve

healthy,

stepped to

wishes to go to Mecca?"

Abder-

achman stepped forward (a huge specimen of a

"
El Jamoos,"
Tokroori, who went by the nickname of
"

the

or

buffalo.)

his family, as I
his

brought.

?"

No

placed the note

dressed,

then

money

and

it

send

it

deduct

to

from

one came forward.

within

and gave

called

weighed

will

wishes to remit

During the
and
which
Mahomet
called for pen
paper,
I immediately commenced writing, and

wages

pause,

Who

for

to

my

an

which

one of the camel-drivers.

medicine-chest,

several three-grain

called the invalids,

envelop,

and

doses

insisted

and

adI

having

of tartar emetic,

upon

their taking

THE SICK ARE DOSED.

CHAP, xiv.]

the medicine

before

they

others
I

would not

now

for

"Now, my good

for three

Mixed with
and

that

day,

little

knew

that

and that the

without them.

start

addressed

again

they might

which

road,

water, the doses were swallowed,

invalids were safe

or

started,

become seriously ill upon the

days' march was uninhabited.
the

351

would-be deserters

my

fellows, there shall be

no misunder-

how

standing between us, and I will explain to you

the case stands.

You engaged

yourselves to

me

for

the whole journey, and you received an advance of

for

wages to

provide

absence.

You have

families
filled

during your
yourselves with

meat, and you have become lazy;

you have been

your
lately

frightened by the footprints of the Base

thus you

To save yourselves from

imaginary danger, you would forsake my wife and
myself, and leave us to a fate which you yourwish to leave the country.

would

selves

kindness

is

this is the return for

without

This

avoid.

hesitation

your

my

gratitude

confidence,

advanced you money.

for

when

Go

Return to Katariff to your families!

I know that
all the excuses you have made are false.
Those who
declare

God)

themselves
shall

upon your

be

to

sick.

arrival

be

sick,

You

will

at Katariff.

Inshallah

be

all

(please

welcomed

In the letter I have

written to the Governor, inclosing your names, I have

requested

him

ance Jive

hundred

desertion

and

to give each

lashes

man upon

with

to imprison

him

the

his appear-

coorbatch, for

until

my

return."

EMBRACE HIM! CRIED pLD MOOSA.

3,32

Check-mate

and in

their great

a word.
fusion, I

as I

My

[CHAP. xiv.

poor Tokrooris were in a corner,

dilemma they could not answer

Taking advantage of this moment of concalled forward "the buffalo" Abderachman,

had heard that he

"

pilgrimage to Mecca.

had contemplated a

really

I continued,

Abderachman,"

"you are the only man who has spoken the truth.
and may God protect you on the
Go to Mecca
!

journey

should not wish to prevent you from

performing your duty as a Mahometan.'

Never were people more dumbfounded with surthey retreated, and formed a knot in conprise
;

and in about ten minutes they returned

to me, old Moosa and Hadji All both leading the
They had given
pilgrim Abderachman by the hands.
sultation,

in

and

thanked
his

once

Abderachman, the

me

"

said

succumbed

unwashed

Embrace him

and

Poor

without the

in

an

maid

the

to

by the

actually kissed

gratitude

party,

for

good-bye.
Moosa and Hadji Ali

the

the

my permission, and with tears

as the camels were about to start, he

eyes,

formerly

of

buffalo

thick lips
fellow
slightest

"

in
at

cried

old

instant, as I

had

was

Barrake,
of

this

Abderachman
was

humbug

sincere

therefore,

although he was an odoriferous savage, I could not

him by

hand and wishing him a

prosperous journey, assuring him that I would watch
help shaking

the

over his comrades like a father, while in

my

service-,

In a few instants these curious people were led by

a sudden and new impulse my farewell had per;

WE BECOME STAUNCH

CHAP, xiv.]

Moosa and Hadji

old
"

fectly delighted

FRIENDS.

353

whose

Ali,

hearts were won.

Say good-bye to the Sit !" (the

but I assured
lady) they shouted to Abderachman
them that it was not necessary to go through the
;

whole operation to which I had been subjected, and

that she would be contented if he only kissed her
This he did with the natural grace of a
hand.

was

and

savage,

away crying by his comwho embraced him with tears, and they

panions,

parted with the

Now

to

led

hard-hearted

often school themselves

as they can,

for

say that the

scene

other

was

it

of

brothers.

and

civilized

affection

anybody,

was

who would have

friends, and we were

who

or as

little

to feel nothing,

appear absurd to
affecting, but somehow or
it

may

and in the course of

people,

half-an-hour,

deserted had become staunch

those

all,

metans and Christians,

black and white,

wishing

the

Maho-

pilgrim

God

speed upon his perilous journey to Mecca.

The camels started, and, if the scene was affecting,
the invalids began to be more affected by the tartar
emetic
plot

this

was the third

act of the comedy.

had been thoroughly ventilated: the

exhibited

whom

the

perfect

fidelity

of

my

The

last

Tokrooris,

act

in

subsequently reposed much confidence.

In the afternoon of that day, the brothers Sheriff

arrived

these were the

most renowned of

all

the

Hamrans, of whom I have

already spoken they were well mounted, and, having
met our caravan of camels on the route,
heavily
sword-hunters

of the

A A

4BOU

354

laden with dried

DO'S WEAKNESSES,

flesh,

[CHAP. xiv.

and thus seen proofs of our

I am
they now offered to join our party.
sorry to be obliged to confess, that my ally, Abou
Do, although a perfect Nimrod in sport, an Apollo

success,

and a gentleman in manner,

was a mean, covetous, and grasping fellow, and
Taher Sheriff was a more
withal absurdly jealous.
in personal appearance,

celebrated hunter, having

least

twenty 'years

although
as

the

was

latter

Taher and

judgment that

He was

in

his
is

had the experience of at

excess of Abou Do, and

brothers,

and

brave

as

wanted

he

essential to

dexterous
the

cool

a first-rate sportsman.

himself aware of his

inferiority

to

Taher

though too proud to admit it but, to avoid

competition, he declined to allow the Sheriffs to
Sheriff,

join our party, declaring that,

fresh alliance, he

return

home.

and

his

upon the
comrade Suleiman would
if I

insisted

his

Notwithstanding

objections,

arranged for the present that, as Jali was hors de

combat, Taher Sheriff's party should join us until

hunter in his place, otherwise our party would be incomplete. To prevent

the

arrival

of a fresh

complications, the greedy

of

Abou Do

selected his share

the ivory, carefully choosing the best

and most

and he presented Taher's party with

a small quantity of meat that would render them

perfect

tusks,

independent

my

of

his hospitality.

at

once

ordered

people to give them a large supply of both meat

my own store, and they encamped hi

and corn from

a quarter of our

circle.

THE BAOBAB.

CHAP, xiv.]

355

The following day was the new

1862

party,

year, January 1st,

with
the
four
brothers
Sheriff and our
and,

we formed

aggageers and

we

powerful body of

hunters

two camels, both

in

started

search of

*of

With

myself, all well mounted.

gunbearers, and
water,

six

four

which carried

elephants.

was unwell, and remained in camp.

In this dry climate it was only necessary

Florian

to ride

along the margin of the river to look for fresh tracks,

as the animals were compelled to visit the Settite to
drink,

and of course there was no

covering their traces.

It appeared*

elephants had been frightened

difficulty in dis-

however, that the

away from the neighas we rode for about

bourhood by the recent attack,

ten miles without seeing any fresh marks.
therefore struck inland, on the east

home by

intending to return

was exactly

like

bank of the

a circuit.

We
river,

The country

an English park, with no larger

Every now and then there

a gigantic homera (Adansonia

timber than thorn

trees.

was an exception

in

digitata), or baobab

towering over the heads

of the low mimosas, could be seen from a great distance.

Having

dismounted to

these,

steered direct for one,

rest

the

horses

we

halted,

beneath the

and

shade.

This tree was about forty feet in circumference, and

the spongy trunk Avas formed into a ladder by pegs
of hard wood driven into its side by the Base hunters,

who had
honey.

thus ascended the slippery stem in search of

Bees are very fond of these trees, as they arc'

generally more or less hollow, and well adapted for

A A 2

THE CROP OF GUM ARABIC.

356

The Adansonia

hives.

me

always reminds
is

and

height,

although a

digitata,

of a gigantic fungus
in

disproportioned

its

immense

its

branches are few in number, and as

its

The wood
and

firmer in substance than cork,

culent as

tree,

the stem

thickness to

massive in character as the stem.

much

[CHAP. xiv.

In Kordofan,

carrot.

not

is

as suc-

is

where water

is

exceedingly scarce, the Adansonia is frequently used

as a reservoir; one of these huge hollow trees is
cleaned out and

with water during the short

The fruit was ripe at the time we

rainy season.
halted,

and

after

we succeeded

filled

many

The sub-acid

in

attempts, by throwing sticks,

procuring a

considerable

number.

flavour of the seeds, enveloped in a dry

yellow powder within the large

shell,

was exceed-

ingly refreshing.

The immediate neighbourhood was a

tion of

arabic bearing mimosas.

the

in perfection,

now

gum
gum was
before

us in

and the

beautiful

perfect exhibi-

At

this

season

finest quality

was

amber-coloured masses

upon the stems and branches, varying from the size

of a nutmeg to that of an orange.
So great was the
quantity,

and

so excellent were the specimens, that,

leaving our horses tied to trees, both the Arabs and

myself gathered a large collection. This gum, although

as hard as ice on the exterior, was limpid in the
centre, resembling melted amber, and as clear as

though refined by some artificial process. The trees

were perfectly denuded of leaves from the extreme
drought,

and the beautiful

balls

of frosted

yellow

THE RHINOCEROS.

CHAP, xiv.]

gum

recalled the

idea of the

357

the trees in the garden of the wonderful

"

Arabian Nights."

and pleasant

to the taste

valuable

quality,

in

forsaken,

this

gum was

This

there

upon

precious jewels

lamp

of the

exceedingly sweet

but, although of the

was no hand

to

beautiful

although

most

gather

country

it

it

during the rainy season, or was

consumed by the baboons and antelopes. The aggageers took off from their saddles the skins of tanned
dissolved

either

antelope leather,
the

that formed

the only covering to

and with these they made bundles

"When we remounted, every man was well

wooden

of gum.

seats,

laden.

We

were thus leisurely returning home through

alternate plains and low open forest of mimosa, when
Taher

who was

Sheriff,

reined

up

his

horse,

leading the party, suddenly

and pointed to a thick bush,

beneath which was a large grey, but shapeless, mass.

He

"
whispered, as I drew near,

of the horn), their

name

Tatham

by Suleiman,

gurrin" (mother
I imfor the rhinoceros.

and with the short No. 10

mediately dismounted,
rifle I

Oom

advanced as near as

as I

had sent

all

my

I could, followed

gun-bearers direct

home by the river when we had commenced our

circuit.
As I drew near, I discovered two rhinoceros
asleep

beneath a thick mass of bushes

they were

lying like pigs, close together, so that at a distance

I

had been unable

was an awkward place

fairly,

any exact form. It

were to take the wind

to distinguish

should have to

if I
fire

through the thick bush,

XOW FOR A

358

"

TALLY HO I "

[CHAP xiv.

which would be useless; therefore I was compelled

to advance with the wind direct from me to them.

The aggageers remained about a hundred yards

tant, while I told Suleiman to return, and hold
horse

readiness

in

with his own.

dis-

my

then walked

quietly to within about thirty yards of the rhinoceros,

but so curiously were they lying that it was useless

In their happy dreams they must
to attempt a shot.

have been suddenly disturbed by the scent of an

enemy, for, without the least warning, they suddenly
sprang to their feet with astonishing quickness, and
with a loud and sharp whiff, whiff, whiff! one of

them charged

straight at me.

barrel in his throat,

I fired

was

as it

my

useless to

right-hand

aim

at the

head protected by two horns at the nose. This turned

him, but had no other effect, and the two animals
thundered

Now

for a

scattered
in full

off together at a

"

tally ho

"
!

tremendous pace.

Our stock

gum was

of

on the ground, and away went the aggageers

speed after the two rhinoceros. Without

waiting to reload, I quickly remounted my horse

Tetel, and, with Sulieman in company, I spurred hard
to

overtake the

flying

Arabs.

strong cob, but not very fast

Tetel

however, I believe he

never went so well as upon that day,

had a

was a good

for,

although

an Abyssinian
which worked

horse, I

decided result.

The ground was awkward for riding

as it was an open forest of mimosas,

at full speed,

like

pair of English spurs,

missionaries,

but

with a

which, although wide apart, were very

more

difficult to

THE H UNT.

CHAP, xiv.]

avoid,
these,

owing to the low crowns of spreading branches

being armed with fish-hook thorns, would have
;

been serious on a

collision.

until in about a mile

Here

359

we

kept the party in view,

arrived

again applied the

spurs,

upon open ground.

and by degrees I

crept up, always gaining, until I at length joined the

aggageers.

The two
Here was a sight to drive a hunter wild
rhinoceros were running neck and neck, like a pair of
I

horses in harness, but bounding along at tremendous

This
speed within ten yards of the leading Hamran.
was Taher Sheriff, who, with his sword drawn, and his

long hair flying wildly behind him, urged his horse

forward in the race, amidst a cloud of dust raised by
the two huge but active beasts, that tried every sinew
of the horses.
Rodur Sheriff, with the withered arm,

with the reins hung upon the hawk-like

claw that was all that remained of a hand, but,

was second

with his naked sword grasped in his right, he kept

close
to his brother, ready to second his blow.

Abou Do was

third

his hair flying in the

heels dashing against the

which he shouted in

of

flanks

wind

his

his

horse,

his excitement to urge

him

to

to

the front, while he leant forward with his long sword,

in the wild energy of the
to

reach

for the

the
spurs

game
!

and

moment,

against
as

all

these,

as

though hoping

possibility.

vigorously

Now
applied,

screwed an extra stride out of Tetel, I soon found

myself
swords.

in

the

ruck

of

men, horses, and

There were seven of

us,

drawn

and passing Abou

CLOSE TO THEIR TAILS.

360

[CHAP. xiv.

Do, whose face wore an expression of agony at finding

that his horse was failing, I quickly obtained a place

between the two brothers, Taher and Eodur

Sheriff.

There had been a jealousy between the two parties of

aggageers, and each was striving to outdo the other ;
thus

Abou Do was driven almost

of Taher's horse, while

superiority

was the renowned hunter of the

that his sword
I

close

first

the rhinoceros on
the

into

shoulder

madness at the
the latter,

tribe,

should be the

tried to pass

fire

to

was determined
to

my

my

who

taste
left,

blood.

so as to

remaining barrel

was impossible to overtake the animals, who bounded along with undiwith

my

right hand, but

it

With the

minished speed.

greatest exertion of

man

and horses we could only retain our position within

about three or four yards of their tails just out of
reach of the swords.
The only chance in the race

was

to hold the

pace until

the rhinoceros should

begin to flag. The horses were pressed to the utmost;

but we had already run about two miles, and the

game showed no

signs of giving

On

in.

they

flew,

sometimes over open ground, then through low

bush, which tried the horses severely then through
;

strips of
tail off,

arrived

open forest, until at length the party began to

and only a select few kept their places.
We
at the

summit of a

ridge,

ground sloped in a gentle inclination

towards the river
thick thorny

nabbuk

at

from which the

for about a mile

the foot of this incline

jungle, for

covert the rhinoceros pressed at

was

which impenetrable
their utmost speed,

GAME RETURNING FROM THE

RIVER.

A HORSE! MY KINGDOM FOR A HORSE.

CHAF. xiv.]

Never was there better ground

the earth was sandy, but
race

as

we saw

must terminate

exertions to close with

we

Suleiman's horse gave in

the unflagging game.

twenty minutes at a killing pace.

although not a fast horse, was good for a disand he now proved his power of endurance, as

had been
Tdtel,

tance,
I

and

firm,

the winning post in the jungle that

we redoubled our

of a

for the finish

the hunt,

361

for about

two stone heavier than any of

Only four of the seven remained and we

was riding

the party.

at least

swept down the incline, Taher

His
and Abou Do the last
!

not the rider

Sheriff

springing to the ground while at

for,

and, preferring his

and, for the

was of no

own

legs,

his tired horse,

an antelope,
thought he would

he ran

like

hundred yards I
and win the honour of

first

really pass us,

leading,

horse was done, but

sword in hand, he forsook

full speed,

still

use, the pace

was too

first

blow.

It

severe, and, although

running wonderfully, he was obliged to give

way

to

Only three now followed the rhinoceros

I had
Taher Sheriff, his brother Eodur, and myself.
the horses.

been obliged to give the second place to Kodur, as he

was a mere monkey in weight but I was a close
;

third.

The excitement was

jungle,

and the rhinoceros began

flagging,

as the dust puffed

we neared

intense
to

up before

show

the

signs of

their nostrils,

and, with noses close to the ground, they snorted as

they
horse

still
!

galloped on.

a horse

my

Oh

for a fresh horse

kingdom

for

a horse

"

A
We

"
!

were within two hundred yards of the jungle

but

THE LAST MOMENT.'

362
the horses were

done.

all

[CHAP. xiv.

Tetel reeled as I

him forward, Kodur pushed ahead we were

the dense thorns, and the rhinoceros broke
;

they were done

for-r-r-a-a-r-d, Taher

trot

close

"

Now,

"
!

into

Taher, for-r-a-a-r~r-d

Away

urged

close to

he went

to the very heels of the beasts

he was

but his horse

could do no more than his present pace still he gained

upon the nearest he leaned forward with his sword
;

raised for the

blow

would be reached

another moment, and the jungle

One

effort

flashed in the sunshine, as

more, and the sword

the rearmost

rhinoceros

disappeared in the thick screen of thorns, with a gash

about a foot long upon his hind-quarters. Taher Sheriff

shook his bloody sword in triumph above his head

but the rhinoceros was gone. We were fairly beaten,
;

outpaced

regularly

but

believe

another

two

hundred yards would have given us the victory.

"Bravo, Taher," I shouted. He had ridden splenand

blow had been marvellously delivered

at an extremely long reach, as he was nearly out of
didly,

his saddle
to

his

when he sprang forward

attain a cut at the last

reach the hamstring, as

the proper position.

We

to enable the blade

moment.

his

He

could not

horse could not

gain

immediately dismounted ; the horses were

thoroughly done, and I at once loosened the girths
all

and contemplated my steed Tetel, who, with head

lowered, and legs wide apart, was a tolerable example of the

effects of

shortly arrived,

and

pace.

as the

The other aggageers

rival

Abou Do

joined

<

DIFFICULTY OF HUNTING.

HAF. xiv.]

63

wiped the blood off his

sword without making a remark this was a bitter
Taher

us,

Sheriff quietly

moment

for the discomfited

Although we had
so

Abou Do.

never enjoyed a hunt

either before or since ; it was a magnificent

much

failed, I

more magnificent was the idea that

a man, with no weapon but the sword, could attack
and generally vanquish every huge animal of crea-

run,

and

tion.

still

felt

adopt the sabre, with a

the

common

my

inclined to discard all

rifles,

horse

first-class

and

instead

to

of

horses of this country, that were totally

unfit for such

style

of

hunting,

when

carrying

nearly fifteen stone.

Taher Sheriff explained that at all times the rhinoceros was the most difficult animal to sabre, on
account of his extraordinary swiftness, and, although
he had killed many with the sword, it was always
a long and fatiguing hunt

after

at

the close

of

which, the animal becoming tired, generally turned

to

in

bay,

which

one

case

hunter

while another galloped

attention,

severed the hamstring.

The

up

occupied

his

behind,

and

rhinoceros,

unlike the

can go very well upon three legs, which

enhances the danger, as one cut will not utterly
disable him.

elephant,

There
sinia
in

only one species of this animal in Abysthis is the two-horned black rhinoceros, known
is

South

Africa

as

the

keitloa.

This

animal

is

generally five feet six inches to five feet eight inches

high at the shoulder, and, although so bulky and

POWER OF

364

SCENT.

[CHAP. xiv.

extremely active, as our long and

fruitless hunt had exemplified.
The skin is about
is

it

heavily built,

half the thickness of that of the hippopotamus, but

of extreme toughness and closeness of texture

dried and polished

Indian species
Africa

of rhinoceros, the

from

free

is

resembles horn.

it

Unlike the

black variety of

and the hide

folds,

when

fits

smoothly
on the body like that of the buffalo. This twohorned black species is exceedingly vicious it is
one of the very few animals that will generally
;

assume the offensive

considers

it

be enemies, and, although

sight or hearing,

of scent, that

is

creatures

not acute

to

in either

possesses so wonderful a

power

will detect a stranger at a distance

it

hundred yards should the wind be

or six

of five

it

it

all

favourable.

have observed that a rhinoceros will generally

charge down upon the object that it smells, but
I

does not see

thus,

when

the

animal

is

concealed

either in high grass or thick jungle, should

man who may

will

rush

down

it

scent

be passing unseen to windward, it

furiously upon the object it has

winded, with three loud whiffs, resembling a jet of

As it is most difficult
steam from a safety-valve.

and next

to impossible

to

kill

rhinoceros

when

charging, on account of the protection to the brain

afforded

thick

by

jungle

when on
but to

the
is

horns,

an unexpected

particularly

unpleasant

horseback, as there is

rush

headlong through

charge

in

especially

no means of escape
all

obstacles,

when

HORNS OF THE RHINOCEROS.

CHAP. xiv.J

365

the rider will most likely share the fate that befell
the unfortunate Jali.

The horns of the black Abyssinian species seldom

exceed two feet in length, and are generally much
they are not fitted upon the bone, like the
horns of all other animals, but are merely rooted
upon the thick skin, of which they appear to be a
shorter

Although the horn of a rhinoceros is

a weapon of immense power, it has no solid founda-

continuation.

tion, but,

when

rated from

by a

its

slight

of an

picked

off.

is

killed, it

can be sepa-

hold upon the second day after death,

blow with a cane.

shallow cup,

exceedingly
heart

the animal

artichoke

The

The base forms an

and much resembles the

when

the leaves have been

teeth are very peculiar, as the

mo-

have a projecting cutting edge on the exterior

thus the jaws when closed form a pair of
side

lars

shears,

as the projecting

lower rows overlap

edges

of

this is a favourable

upper and

the

arrangement

of nature to enable the animal to clip off twigs and the

branches upon which

it feeds,

as,

although

absolutely refuse grass, the rhinoceros

wood

is

it

does not

decidedly a

There are particular bushes which form

a great attraction, among these is a dwarf mimosa
with a reddish bark this tree grows in thick masses,
eater.

which the rhinoceros

clips so closely that it frequently

resembles a quickset hedge that has been cut by the

woodman's

shears.

These animals are generally seen

in pairs, or the male, female,

is

very affectionate, and

and

calf;

the mother

exceedingly watchful

and

PECULIARITY OF THE RHINOCEROS.

366

[CHAP.'XIV.

Although so large an animal, the cry is.

very insignificant, and is not unlike the harsh shrill
sound of a penny trumpet. The drinking hour is
savage.

about

two hours

or

8 P.M.

which

after sunset, at

time the rhinoceros arrives at the river from his

daily retreat, which

the

He

interior.

made by

paths

same route

is

usually about four miles in

approaches the water by regular

himself, but not always by the

and, after drinking, he generally retires

spot beneath

to a particular

a tree that has

been

upon regular occasions in such places large

heaps of dung accumulate. The hunters take advantage of this peculiarity of the rhinoceros, and they
visited

set traps in the

path to his private retreat

so extremely wary,

and

fifteen

but he

so acute is the animal's

of scent, that the greatest art

the snare.

is

is

power

necessary in setting

circular hole about

inches in diameter

is

dug

two

feet

deep and

in the middle of

his run, near the tree that has been daily visited

upon

this hole is placed a

ranged with
strong elastic

meet

at

the

vast

wood,

hoop of tough

number
which,

and

centre,

nave,

if

lengthened

ar-

of sharp spikes of a

fastened

overlap

would the spokes of a wheel

wood

to

each

the

in the absence

sufficiently.

We

will

rim,

other

as

of the

simplify

the hoop by calling it a wheel without a centre,

the spokes sharpened and overlapping in the middle.

This instrument being fitted neatly above the hole,

a running noose of the strongest rope is laid in a
circle

upon the wheel

the

other extremity of the

RHINOCEROS SNARE.

CHAP, xiv.]

been

and deeply notched

This
prevent the rope from slipping.

for

felled

end to

at one

trunk of a tree that has

the

fastened to

is

rope

367

that

purpose,

which weighs about

five or six

hundredweight,
then buried horizontally in the ground, and the
entire trap is covered with earth and carefully con-

log,
is

the surface

smoothed with a branch

cealed

stead

of the hand, as the scent of a

would

is

at once be detected

by the

human touch

snare.

When

rhinoceros.

completed, a quantity of the animal's dung

from the heap upon the

in-

is

swept

If the trap is undis-

covered, the rhinoceros steps

which

his

sinks

leg

into

upon the hoop, through

the hole, and upon his

attempt to extricate his foot, the noose draws tight

as the spiked hoop fixing tightly
over the legs
into the skin prevents the noose from slipping over
;

Once caught, his first effort to escape

drags the heavy log from the trench, and as the

the

foot.

animal rushes furiously away, this acts as a

and,
roots

catching in the jungle

by
of

trees,

it

quickly

following morning the

On

him.

fatigues

hunters

drag,,

and the protruding

discover the

the

rhino-

by the track of the log that has ploughed

along the ground, and the animal is killed by lances,
or by the sword.
The hide of a rhinoceros will produce

ceros

seven shields
as

simple

these are worth about

hide before

sold in Abyssinia for

for the

manufacture

two
;

dollars each,

the

horn

is

about two dollars per pound,

manufacture of sword-hilts, which are much

esteemed

if

of this material.

BARRAKE POISONS HERSELF.

368

our return to camp,

Upon

was

Barrake'

found that the

woman

She had insisted upon eating a

ill.

of

large] quantity

[CHAP, xiv.

the

fruit

of

the

hegleek

tree

(Balanites dEgyptiaca), which abounded in this neighThis tree is larger than the generality
bourhood.

about thirty feet in height

the ashes of the
and eighteen inches in diameter
burnt wood are extremely rich in potash, and the
in

that country, being

and shape of a date,

sometimes pounded and used by the Arabs in
which

fruit,
is

size

of soap for washing their clothes.

This

exceedingly pleasant, but in a raw state

it

lieu
is

about the

is

irritating

effect

upon

the

bowels,

fruit

has an

and should be

Barrake had been cautioned

used in small quantities.

by the Arabs and ourselves, but she had taken a

fancy that she was determined to gratify; therefore
she had eaten the forbidden fruit from morning until

and a grievous attack of diarrhoea was the

consequence.
My wife had boiled the fruit with

night,

wild honey, and had made a most delicious preserve ;

in this state it was not unwholesome.
She had likewise preserved the fruit of the nabbuk in a similar

manner

the latter resembles minute apples in ap-

pearance, with something of the medlar in flavour;

enormous quantities were produced upon the banks

of the river, which falling when ripe, were greedily
eaten

by

monkeys.
fruit

too

of

wild

guinea-fowl,

hogs,

antelopes,

Elephants are particularly fond of

the

hegleek,

insignificant

for

which,

the

and
the

although apparently
of such mighty

attention

ATTRACTIVE FOOD FOR ELEPHANTS.

CHAP, xiv.]

369

they nevertheless enjoy beyond any other

and they industriously gather them one by

animals,
food,

At

one.

the

season

when

the

fruit

is

the

ripe,

hegleek tree is a certain attraction to elephants, who

shake the branches and pick up the fallen berries

with their trunks

as a

itself,

more

frequently they overturn the tree

manner of

direct

feeding.

Florian was quite incapable of hunting, as he

in a

weak

and had

state of health,

for

was

some months

been suffering from chronic dysentery. I had several

times cured him, but, as Barrake' insisted upon eating
so

fruit,

he had a weakness for the strongest black

which, instead of drinking, like the natives,

in minute cups, he swallowed wholesale in large
coffee,

basins,

day; this was actual poison

complaint, and he was completely ruined in
He had excellent servants, Ri charn, whom

several times a

with his

health.

I subsequently

man

in

my

who was my

engaged,

only faithful

journey up the White Nile, and two

good Dongalowas.

At

this time, his old

companion, Johann Schmidt,

the carpenter, arrived, having undertaken a contract

to

provide, for

number

the

of animals.

Italian

Zoological

Gardens,

proposed that the

two old friends should continue together, while I
I

therefore

would hunt by myself, with the aggageers, towards

the east and south.
This arrangement was agreed

In the following season,

man, Johann

Schmidt,

as

B B

to,

and we parted.

engaged this excellent

my

lieutenant

for

the

FLORIAN KILLED BY A

370

LION.

[CHAP. xiv.

White Nile expedition, on the banks of which

now

he

river

with the cross

lies,

that

fatal

erected

over his grave.

Poor Florian at length recovered from his comHe had wounded

plaint, but was killed by a lion.
an

elephant,

found dead

on the following morning he

a lion had eaten a portion during the

which

While he was engaged with

night.

his

men

in

extracting the tusks, one of his hunters (a Tokroori)

followed the track of the lion on the sand, and found

the animal lying beneath a bush
barrelled

once

at

rifle,

and wounded

returned

to

his

he

in

it

fired a single-

the

thigh.

He

who accompanied

master,

was found lying

Florian
under the same bush, licking the wound.
the lion immediately crouched
fired, and missed

him

to

the

and

spot,

the

lion

for

spring

Florian fired

his

the ball merely grazed the lion,

remaining barrel,
who almost in the

same instant bounded forward, and struck him upon

the head with a fearful blow of the paw, at the
same time

it

seized

him by the

The Tokroori hunter, instead

throat.

of flying from the

danger, placed the muzzle of his

ear, and blew its brains out on
master.

rifle

the

to the lion's

body

of his

The unfortunate Florian had been struck

dead, and great difficulty was found

in

extracting

the claws of the lion, which had penetrated the

skull.
Florian, although a determined hunter, was

and withal badly armed

encounters with dangerous game I had frequently

an exceedingly bad
for

shot,

GLOOMY PREDICTION.

CHAP, xiv.]

37 1

prophesied some calamity from the experience I had

had in a few days' shooting in his society, and most

unhappily
This

my

was

Germans,

gloomy prediction was

the fate of two good

fulfilled.

and

who had been my companions

sterling
in

this

where degrees of rank are entirely

I
forgotten, provided a man be honest and true.
constantly look back to the European acquaintances
wild country,

and

friends that I

nearly

all

of

made during

whom

are dead

my

sojourn in Africa,

a merciful Providence

guided us through many dangers and difficulties,

and shielded us from all harm, during nearly five
Thanks be to God.
years of constant exposure.

Our camels returned from Geera with

corn,

accom-

panied by an Abyssinian hunter, who was declared

by Abou Do to be a good man, and dexterous with

We

moved our camp,

said

adieu to Florian and Johann, and penetrated

deeper into the Base.

still

the sword.

accordingly

B B 3

CHAPTER XV.
ANTELOPES ON THE SETTITE.

OUR

along the banks of the

river, which \ve several times forded to avoid the
course

bends.
river's

as

lay

usual

Great numbers of antelopes were upon the

bed, having descended to drink; by making
I

circuit,

cut

one

off

party upon

their

retreat,

and made two good shots with the Fletcher No. 24,
bagging two tetel (Antelope Bubalis) at considerable
I also shot

ranges.

an

ariel (G.

Daina), and, upon

arriving at a deep pool in the river, I shot a

bull

hippopotamus, as a present for Taher Sheriff and his

We decided upon encamping at a spot
brothers.

known
forest
first

to

the Arabs

as

Delladilk

upon the margin of the

the

shot

bull

river

when

this

was the

where

had

the

aggageers
The
trees
were
foot.
him
with
larger
upon
fought
in this locality than elsewhere, as a great portion
of

elephant,

country was

the

the rainy season, and

flooded

much

by the
rich soil

river

during

had been de-

with excessive moisture, had produced

a forest of fine timber, with an undergrowth of

posited

this,

THE CAMP AT DELLADILLA.

CHAP, xv.]

We

thick nabbuk.

upon a charming spot

fixed

a camp, beneath a large

fruit,

from

suspended

but single

for

that bore a peculiar

tree

branches

the

by a strong
a cord; each fruit was about

like

fibre,

373

eighteen inches in length,

six

by

in

diameter;

it

was perfectly worthless, but extremely ornamental.

We had arrived beneath this tree, and were still
on horseback;

wife had just suggested that

my

it

would be unpleasant should one of the large fruit

fall upon our heads if we
camped under the branches,

when suddenly
yards

of the

a lioness glided

moment

us,

within three

and almost immediately

horses,

appeared in the thick thorns

the

by

before given

my

dis-

unfortunately, I had

rifle

to a servant, prior

to

I searched the bushes in

dismounting.
every
direction, but to no purpose.
This spot was so favourably situated that I deter-

mined

to remain for

some time,

as T could explore

the country on horseback to a great distance upon

We

immediately set to work to construct

our new camp, and by the evening our people had
all sides.

cleared

a circle

of fifty

yards diameter

this

was

swept perfectly clean, and the ground being hard,

though free from stones, the surface was as even
as a paved
tected

with

floor.

The

strong

which the kittar

is

entire

fence

circle

of

was well pro-

thorn

admirably adapted

bushes,
;

the

for

head

being mushroom-shaped, the entire tree is cut down,

and the stem being drawn towards the inside of
the camp, the thick and wide-spreading thorny crest

TRIOXIS XILOTICA.

374

twelve

covers about

a fence
is

thus

feet

arranged

within the

was

camp

is

constructed,

quickly

or three large trees

beneath the shade of

This

pitched.

of the exterior frontage

Two

quite impervious.

[CHAP. xv.

we never

this,

inhabited, but

and

grew

our tent
it

served

an ordinary room, and a protection to the luggage,

The horses were well secured within a
cams, &c.
O
as

'

double

circle

about at

of

thorns,

liberty,

and

the

as they were

wandered

goats

too

animals to venture from the camp

afraid
:

of wild

altogether this

was the most agreeable spot we had ever occupied

even the night-fires would be perfectly concealed
;

within the dense shade of the nabbuk jungle, thus

neither

man

sence.

"We

nor beast would be aware of our prewere about a hundred paces distant

late in the evening

from the margin of the river
I took my rod, and fished in the deep bend beneath
;

cliff

fish,

caught only one

about twelve pounds, but I landed

of conglomerate pebbles.

a baggar,

three large

turtles

these creatures

were most de-

termined in taking the bait

they varied in size
from fifty to about ninety pounds, and were the
;

same

which inhabits the Nile (Trionis

From one of them we took upwards of

species as that

Nilotica).

a hundred eggs, which

we converted

into omelettes,

but they were rather strong in flavour.

Although

this species of turtle

in appearance, having

is

head very

unprepossessing
like

that of a

snake, with a dark green shell spotted/ with yellow,

it

produces excellent soup

the

body

is

exceedingly

FISH LINKED TO REPTILES.

CHAP. xv.J

flat,

it

and the projecting edges of the

shell are soft

runs extremely fast upon the shore, and

of the

gestive

beat the

that

tortoise

is

sug-

hare in the

Throughout the Nile and its tributaries there are varieties of fish and reptiles closely
connected, and the link can be distinctly traced in
well-known

the

race.

progression

of

There

development.

is

fish

with a hard bony frame, or shell, that includes the

head, and extends over more than half the body

two long and moveable spikes beneath the

fins, upon which it can raise itself as upon legs

this has

fore

when upon

the

land

when

makes a noise something

this

appears to be

first

like the

closely

this fish

caught,

of a cat

mewing

linked to

the

tortoise.

The Lepidosiren Annectens, found in the White Nile,

is a link between the fish and the
frog; and certain

mud

remain alive throughout

a dry season in the sun-baked earth, and reappear
with the following rains, exhibit a close affinity to
varieties of

fish that

reptiles.

On

the

explore

the

morning

our arrival,

after

started

to

country with the aggageers, and rode

about forty miles.

From

this point, hills

of basalt

and granite commenced, connected by rugged undulations of white quartz, huge blocks of which
were scattered upon the surface
I found thin veins of galena.
All

the

rocks

were

igneous

in

many

we had

of these

left

the

sandstone that had marked the course of the Atbara

and the valley of the

Settite

as far

as

Ombre'ga,

SCENES ON THE RIFER'S MARGIN.

376

and

[CHAP. xv.

was extremely puzzled to account for the

presence of the pure white and rose-coloured limeI

we had found only

stone that

in one place

Geera.

As we were now among the hills and mountains,

the country was extremely beautiful at the farthest
;

point of that day's excursion

we were

close to the

high range from which, in the rainy season, innumerable torrents pour into the Settite some of these
;

gorges were ornamented with the dark foliage of

large tamarind trees, while upon rocks that did not

appear to

offer

any sustenance, the unsightly yet

mighty baobab* grasped with its gnarled roots the

blocks of granite, and formed a peculiar object in
the wild and rugged scenery.
this

Through

romantic

wilderness,

the

flowed in a clear and beautiful stream,

contracted between
at

yards,

cliffs

to a width

sometimes

of a hundred

others stretching to three times that dis-

The hippopotami were

tance.

Settite

in

great

numbers

many were lying beneath the shady trees upon the

banks, and splashed into the water as we appeared
others were basking in large herds
upon the shal;

lows

while the young calves, supported upon the

backs of their mothers, sailed about upon their ani-

mated

rafts in perfect
security.

The Base had been

we discovered their
and we arrived at some

here recently, as

footprints upon

the

tobacco planta-

sand,

tions
*

was

that they

The

largest

had formed upon the sandbanks of

Baobab (Adansonia digitata) that I have measured,

and one inch in circumference.

fifty-one feet

THE NELLUT

CHAP, xv.]

the

river.

nation

to

STREPSICEROS}.

(A.

The aggageers expressed their determisabre them should we happen to meet,

and were much displeased

at

my

immediately placing
a veto upon their bloody intentions, with a reservation for necessity in self-defence.

The Base were

far too

wide awake, and, although

seen once during the day

by

my

people, they dis-

their spies had doubtless

appeared like monkeys
reported our movements ever since we had entered
;

they had
retreated to their fastnesses among the mountains.
During the day's march we had seen a large
their

country,

fearing the

and,

firearms,

quantity of game, but I had not wished to shoot

until on our return towards the camp.
We were

from home, when a nellut (A.

I was
Strepsiceros) bounded away from a ravine.
riding Tetel, whom I had taught to stand fire, in
four miles

about

which he was remarkably steady. I made a quick

shot with the little Fletcher from the saddle, but,
the

as

nellut

ran straight

struck the haunch

the

wounded

nellut

antelopes

and

away went

me, the

bullet

the aggageers after

animal, like greyhounds, and in a few

hundred yards the

The

before

the

is

word
the

male

finished the hunt.

handsomest of

all

the

large

about thirteen hands high,

is

carries a pair of beautiful spiral horns,

upwards

of three feet in length

the colour of the hide is
a, dark
mouse-grey, ornamented with white stripes
;

down

the flanks, and

a white

from the shoulder to the

tail.

Kne along the back

The female is with-

SWIMMING RIVERS WITH A HORSE.

378

out horns, but

in

is

other

respects

[CHAP. XT.

similar to

the

These beautiful animals do not inhabit the

male.

the other varieties of antelopes, but are

plains like

generally found in deep

Africa

is

it

known

wooded

ravines.

In South

as the koodoo.

The aggageers quickly flayed and quartered the

game, which was arranged upon the horses, and thus
was carried

it

our camp, at which we

to

arrived

late in the evening.

On

the following morning, at

a

starting,

little

before sunrise,

my
we

usual hour of
crossed

a deep

portion of the river, through which the horses were

obliged to

was
ful

swim

on

this occasion I rode

Aggahr, who

In that very charming and usebook by Mr. Francis Galton, " The Art of Travel,"
best hunter.

my

advice

given for crossing a deep

to the tail of the swimming horse
is

agree

the

by the
upon

man

safety of the

heels of the horse,

the

length

of

the

and

is

river,

by holding

in this I cannot

much endangered

his security

animal's

tail.

depends
In rivers

abounding in crocodiles, which generally follow an

animal before they seize, the man hanging on to the
tail of the horse is a most
alluring bait, and he

would

certainly be taken, should one of these

hor-

monsters be attracted to the party. I have

always found great comfort in crossing a river by

rible

simply holding to the mane, just in front of the

saddle, with my left hand, with the bridle grasped
as loosely as possible, so that the horse does not feel

the bit

in this position

on the

off side, the

animal

THE

CHAP, xv.]

does not

feel

LION.

any hindrance

379

the

man

direct his horse, but his presence gives

he can speak to
with one arm by its

as

it

not only can

it

confidence,

coaxingly while

swimming

side.
Upon landing, he at once
controls the horse by the reins within his left grasp.

become exceedingly scared in swimming a rapid river, and will frequently lose their
presence of mind, and swim with the current, in which
horses

Many

case they

the

man

may

miss the favourable landing place

holds by the

if

he has no control over

tail,

the horse upon landing, and,

if

wild or vicious, the

animal will probably kick up its heels and bolt away,

In swimleaving the unfortunate proprietor helpless.

ming a river with the horse, the powder, &c. should

be made into a parcel with your outer garment, and
tied

into

then lead your horse gently

upon the head
the water, and for a moment allow it to drink,
;

to prevent all shyness

continue to lead

it

until

you

your depth, when, by holding with your left

hand to the mane, both horse and man w ill cross
lose

with perfect

We

ease.

had crossed the

and,

river,

as

we

passed

through an opening in the belt of jungle on the banks,

and entered upon a plain interspersed with clumps
of bush,

we

distance,

two hundred yards'

whose shaggy yellow

perceived, at about

magnificent

lion,

a colossal appearance, as he stalked

along the flat sandy ground towards the

mane gave him

quietly

The aggageers whispered,

and instinctively the swords

place of his daily retreat.

" El
Assut

"
!

(the lion),

THE LION HUNT.

380

flashed from their sheaths.

were at

[CHAP,

xv

In an instant, the horses

speed sweeping over the level ground.

The lion had not observed us; but, upon hearing
full

sound of the hoofs, he halted and raised his

the

head, regarding us for

we

moment with wonder,

as

decreased our distance, when, thinking

retreat advisable, he bounded off, followed by the
rapidly

excited

hunters,

as

hard as

the

horses

could be

Having obtained a good start, we had

gained upon him, and we kept up the pace until we
pressed.

at length arrived within about eighty yards of the

lion,

who, although he appeared to

like a cat, did not equal the

was a

beautiful sight.

fly

easily along

speed of the horses.

It

Aggahr was an exceedingly

having formerly belonged to one of

the Hamran hunters, he thoroughly understood his

fast horse, and,

work.
stride

His gallop was perfection, and his long steady

was

as easy to himself as to his rider

was no necessity

to guide him,

as he

there

followed an

animal like a greyhound, and sailed between the

stems of the numerous trees, carefully avoiding their
trunks, and choosing his route where the branches
allowed ample room for the rider to pass beneath.
In about five minutes we had run the lion straight
across the plain, through several open strips of mimosas,

and we were now within a few yards, but unfortunately,

just as Taher and Abou Do dashed forward in the
endeavour to ride upon either
precipitous ravine,

flank,

and disappeared

he sprang down a

in the thick thorns.

This ravine formed a broad bottom, which, covered

THE ESCAPE.

CHAP, xv.]

381

with dense green nabbuk, continued for a great disI was much
tance, and effectually saved the lion.
disappointed, as

we should have had

a glorious fight,

an opportunity of witnessThe
ing an attack upon the lion with the sword.
aggageers were equally annoyed, and they explained

and

had long sought

for

should have

that they

been

certain

to

kill

him.

Their plan was to ride upon either flank, at a few

yards' distance,

when he would have charged one

man, who would have dashed away, while the other

hunter would have slashed the lion through the back
good hunter
should be able to protect himself by a back-handed
blow with his sword, should the lion attack the horse

with his sword.

that, a

but that, the great danger in a lion hunt

when the animal took refuge in a solitary bush,

from behind
arose,

They declared

and turned

to bay.

In such instances, the hunters

surrounded the bush, and rode direct towards him,

sprang out upon some man or
horse ; he was then cut down immediately by the
sabre of the next hunter.
The aggageers declared

when he

generally

event of an actual fight, the death of

the lion was certain, although one or more men or

that, in the

horses might be wounded,

or perhaps killed.

The morning gallop had warmed our nags

their bath in the cool river,
leisurely

towards the

which we rode

and we now continued

stream,

for several miles.

upon the margin of

We had determined

to set fire to the grass, as, although

it

after

upon poorer

soil

had almost disappeared through the withering of the

THE BULL BUFFALO.

332
roots,

upon

fertile

it

ground

and not only concealed

[CHAP. xv.

was almost nine

feet high,

the game, but prevented us

from riding. We accordingly rode towards a spot

where bright yellow herbage invited the fire-stick
but hardly had we arrived, than we noticed a solitary
;

bull buffalo (Bos Coffer), feeding within about a hun-

dred and

immediately dismounted, and,

him
to
towards
within fifty paces, I shot him
creeping
through the neck with one of my Eeilly No. 10 rifles.
fifty yards.

had hoped to drop him dead* by the shot, instead of

which he galloped off, of course followed by the aggaI

geers,

with the exception of one, who held

my

horse.

Quickly mounted, we joined in the hunt, and in about

three minutes we ran the buffaloo to bay in a thicket
of thorns on the margin of the river.

These thorns

were just thick enough to conceal him at times, but

to afford us a glance of his figure as he moved from
There was a glade which cut through
and divided the jungle, and I wished the aggageers to

his position.

drive him,

if possible,

across this,

when

should have

To my astonisha good opportunity of shooting.

ment one of the most daring hunters jumped off his
horse with his drawn sword, and, telling
out, he coolly entered the jungle

attack of the buffalo.

his life for

I insisted

had been the

upon

to look

alone to court the

would not allow him

an animal that

wound, therefore

me

his return,

ging Abou Do to hold my bridle when

fire, I rode with him carefully along the

to risk
first

to

and begI

should

skirts

of

the jungle along the glade, keeping a good look-out

DEATH OF THE

CHAP, xv.]

among

BULL.

the thorns for the buffalo.

a short

383

Presently

grunt within twenty yards of

us,

heard

and

quickly perceived the buffalo standing broadside on,

with his head turned to the wind that brought down
the scent of the people on the other side.
I

had

handy

my

little

little

Fletcher No. 24 in

hand

that

weapon that almost formed an extra bone

of myself, and, whispering to

bridle close to the bit, as

under

my

Abou Do

to hold

my

Aggahr was not very steady

took a clean shot direct at the centre of

fire, I

the shoulder.

The

ball

smacked

as

though

it

had

Aggahr gave a start, and for

the moment both Abou Do and myself were prepared
for a rush
but the buffalo had never flinched, and he

struck an iron target,

remained standing as though immoveable. Abou Do

"
whispered, You missed him, I heard the bullet strike
the tree

;" I

shook

my

head, and quickly re-loaded

it

was impossible to miss at that distance, and I knew

that I had fired steadily.
Hardly had I rammed the
bullet

down, when, with a sudden thump, down

fell

the buffalo upon his side, and, rolling over upon his
back, he gave a few tremendous struggles, and lay
-dead.

Great caution should be invariably used in approaching a fallen buffalo and

all

other dangerous animals,

as they are apt to recover sufficiently,

enemy, to make a

last

effort

to

upon seeing the

attack, which is

generally more serious than any other phase of the

hunt.

We

Mm to test

accordingly pitched a few large stones at

the reality of death, and then walked

up

THE ARABS' TIT

384

BIT.

[CH^P. xv.

and examined him.

The Keilly No. 10 had gone

quite through the neck, but had missed a vital part.
The little Fletcher had made a clean and minute hole
exactly through the shoulder, and upon opening the

body we found the

ball sticking in the ribs

on the

opposite side, having passed through the very centre

of the lungs.

The aggageers now

carefully flayed

it,

and divided

the tough hide into portions accurately measured for

One man galloped back

shields.

to direct the

two

water-camels that were following in our tracks, while

others

cut

up the

disgusting feast

and prepared the usual

buffalo,

by cutting up the reeking paunch,

over which they squeezed the contents of the gallbladder,

On

and consumed the whole, raw and steaming.*

the arrival of the camels they were quickly loaded,

and we proceeded to fire the grass on our return to

The Arabs always obtained their fire by the
camp.
friction of two pieces of wood
accordingly, they set
;

to work.

piece of dry

nabbuk was

as thick as the little finger.

and

it

was

selected about

notch was cut in

this,

upon the ground, with

this was fitted the sharp

laid horizontally

the notch uppermost

into

point of a similar piece of wood, about eighteen inches

long,

which,

being held

perpendicularly with both

hands, was worked between the palms like a

drill,

with as great a pressure as possible, from the top to

* All these
Arabs, in like

manner with the Abyssinians,

ject to the attacks of intestinal

eating raw fleth.

are sub*

worms, induced by their habit of

CHAP, xv.]

THE ARAB PLAN FOR MAKING

FIRE.

585

the bottom, as the hands descended with the motion

After about two

of rubbing or rolling the stick.

minutes of great labour, the notch began to smoke,

a brown dust, like ground coffee, fell from the singed
wood, and this charred substance, after increased
emitted a

tion,

fric-

denser smoke, and commenced

still

smouldering the fire was produced. A rag was torn

from the thorn-brushed drawers of one of the party,
;

which the

in

with the breath

grass,

was

fire
;

it

was then placed in a wisp of dry

and rapidly turned

in the air until the flame

A burning-glass

burst forth.

wrapped and fanned

carefully

should be always carried

in these countries, where a cloudless sky insures an

Although in Arab hands the making of fire

appears exceedingly simple, I have never been able
I have worked at the two sticks until
to effect it.
effect.

they have been smoking and I have been steaming,

with my hands blistered, but I have never got beyond
the

smoke

the

playing
looks

there
fiddle,

produce

by

this

are the cotton-tree

to the river,

and

a peculiar knack which,

like

must be acquired, although

It

very easy.
fire

is

is

it

not every wood that will

those most inflammable

method

We now descended

and the nabbuk.

fired the grass

the north

wind was

and the flames extended over miles of country

within an hour.
brisk,

We

returned towards the

we saw numerous

antelopes

On

camp.
;

and,

ordered one of the hunters to lead

the

way

dismounting,

my

horse while

attempted to stalk a fine buck mehedehet (Reduncv

c c

THE MEIIEDEIIAT ANTELOPE.

386

were several in

There

Ellipsypri'nina).

[CHAP. xv.

the

herd,

but there was a buck with a fine head a few yards

in advance
they were standing upon an undulation
;

on

backed

ground

open

marked a small bush

by high

creeping unobserved towards

had

point of cover, and,

my

as

grass.

this,

arrived unseen

and twenty yards of the

Fletcher 24 I made a good

within about a hundred

With

buck.

shoulder-shot

dead

the

the buck gave a few bounds and

on in astonishment, and

the does looked

made

an

barrel, bringing

to be a

lucky

equally

with

shot

down what

but

dee,

fell

the

left-hand

had mistaken

I at first

be a young

discovered

is

an antelope of great beauty

it

to

buck.

The Mehedehet
it

resembles the red deer in colour, but' the coat

is

it
stands about thirteen hands in
rougher
height, with a pair of long slightly-curved annulated
of the male would be about
The live weight
horns.
o

still

five

hundred pounds

the

(Tragelaphus Strepsiceros),

much

is

devoid of horns, and

resembles the female of the

India.

This antelope

is

the

"

the nellut

like

female,

Sambur deer

water-buck

"

of

of South

Africa.

On
entire
still

of

arrival

the

camp,

resolved

to

fire

the

country on the following day, and to push

farther

the

at

up the

mountains,

course of the Settite to the foot

and

to return to

this

camp

in

about a fortnight, by which time the animals that

had been scared away by the fire would have

SAUVE QUI PEUI

CHAP, xv.j

387

Accordingly, on the following morning,

accompanied by a few of the aggageers, I started
returned.

upon the south bank of the river, and rode for

some distance into the interior, to the ground that

was

We

entirely covered with high withered grass.

were passing through a mass of kittar thorn-bush,

almost hidden by the immensely high grass, when,
as I was ahead of the party, I came suddenly upon
the tracks of rhinoceros

ably recent that

the

As

we were

for the

Mahomet No.

men, and

still

not far from

had wished

was accompanied by

horse-keeper,

ground

these were so unmistake-

sure

felt

animals themselves.

the grass, I

my

my

2.

to fire

and

Tokrooris,
It

was

difficult

more unfavourable

for

the horses, as large disjointed masses of stone were

concealed in the high grass.

We

w^ere

just speculating

the rhinoceros, and

pleasant

when

it

thinking

as to

the

position

of

how uncommonly un-

would be should he obtain

our

wind,

We

heard the sharp

whistling snort, with a tremendous rush through the
and at the same
high grass and thorns close to us
whiff!

whiff!

whiff!

moment two

of these determined brutes were

upon

never saw such a scrimmage ;

charge.
sauve qui pent ! There was no time for more than
us in

full

one look behind.

flanks,

my
my

dug the spurs into Aggahr's

and clasping him round the neck, I ducked
I

head down to his shoulder, well protected with

strong hunting cap, and I kept the spurs going

as hard as

could ply them,

c c 2

blindly

trusting to

NEARLY CAUGHT.

388

Providence and
trees,

my

good

horse, over big rocks, fallen

and grass ten

thick kittar thorns,

with the two infernal animals in

few

feet

heard

behind

me.

to

me,

but

close

whiffing

[CHAP. xv.

high,

chase only a

full

abominable

their

did

so

feet

horse

my

also,

and the good old hunter flew over obstacles that

I should have thought impossible, and he dashed
hooked thorn bushes and doubled

straight under the

like

The

hare.

were

a-ggageers

all

Mahomet No. 2 was knocked over by a

the
all the men were sprawling upon
their

guns, and the party was

Having

had gone
that the
Aggahr's head round, and
it was perfectly impossible
that the horse
for

strongest

seldom
in a

and

tore,

thorn,

coarsest

but simply
I

on,

and seeing
I

brought
but

tried to give chase,

was only a wonder

it

in

ground so difficult
clothes were of
the

my
Arab

lost a

cotton

thread

was nearly naked.

reduced to shreds

rhinoceros

entirely discomfited.

straight

had escaped

Although

riding.

rocks with

passed the kittar thorn, I turned,

beasts

scattered

cloth,

which

when caught
blouse

was

as I wore sleeves only half

way

from the shoulder to the

elbow,

My
my

naked arms

were streaming with blood

fortunately my hunting
a
chin
with
secured
was
strap, and still more
cap
;

fortunately

had grasped the

horse's neck, other-

must have been dragged out of the saddle by

All the men were cut and
the hooked thorns.
wise

some having fallen upon their heads among

the rocks, and others had hurt their legs in

bruised,

FIRE CLEARS THE COUNTRY.

CHAP, xv.]

endeavours

389

Mahomet No.

in

their

the

more frightened than hurt,

he had been knocked down by the shoulder

as

to

escape.

2,

was

horse-keeper,

and not by the horn of the

animal had not noticed him

as

rhinoceros,

its

to

the

attention

the

was

absorbed by the horse.

I

determined to

set

fire

whole country
hill towards the

and descending the

immediately,

river to obtain a favourable wind, I

line,

bed,

put

my men

in

extending over about a mile along the river's

^nd they

With a loud

the

fired

roar,

grass

in

different places.

the flame leapt high in air and

rushed forward with astonishing velocity

the grass
was as inflammable as tinder, and the strong north
;

wind drove the long

line of

fire

spreading in every

direction through the country.

We now

crossed

to

to avoid the flames,

On

camp.

wounded

a tetel, but lost

it

of the

river

returned towards the

a long shot and badly

in thick thorns

shortly

a nellut (A. Strepsiceros), and bagged

with the Fletcher

We

we
made

and

the way, I

after, I stalked

it

the other side

rifle.

arrived early in camp, and on the following

we moved

miles

sixteen

farther

up stream,
and camped under a tamarind tree by the side of
No European had ever been farther than
the river.
day

and that spot had only

been visited by Johann Schmidt and Florian. In
the previous year, my aggageers had sabred some
our last

of the

camp

Base

Delladilla,

at

this

very

camping-place;

they

DISCRETION THE BETTER PART OF VALOUR,

390

me

[en.

xv.

keep a vigilant watch

during the night, as they would be very likely to
attack us in revenge, unless they had been scared by
accordingly requested

the

rifles

and by the

to

size of

They advised
as it would

our party.

me not to remain long in this spot,

be very dangerous for my wife to be left almost
alone during the day, when we were hunting, and
that the Base would be certain to espy us from the

probably attack and

carry her off when they were assured of our deShe was not very nervous about this, but
parture.

and would most

mountains,

she immediately called the dragoman, Mahomet,

knew

the use of a

would stand by her

my
fight
if

absence

gun, and she asked

in case they

the Base

No, Missus

the Base come, Missus fight

Mahomet not come

him

by black

killed

all

the

fellers

if

he

were attacked in

the faithful servant replied,

him

who

"

Mahomet

Mahomet not fight

Mahomet run away

way from Cairo to get

Mahomet will run

Inshallah!" (please God).

This frank avowal of his military tactics was very

There was a high

reassuring.

hill

of basalt, some-

thing resembling a pyramid, within a quarter of a

I accordingly ordered some of my men
mile of us
;

every day to ascend this look-out station, and I

resolved to burn the high grass at once, so as to
destroy

all

cover for the concealment of an enemy.

That evening

very nearly burnt our camp; I had

several times ordered the

men

to clear

away

the dry

grass for about thirty yards from our resting-place

THE CAMP IN DANGER.

CHAP. xv.J

had neglected

39 J

We

had been joined

a few days before by a party of about a dozen Hamraii
Arabs, who were hippopotami hunters thus we musthis they

to obey.

tered very strong,

of about

half an

grass as I

had

and

it

would have been the work

hour to

have cleared

away

the

desired.

The wind w as
r

and blew directly towards our

camp, which was backed by the river. I accordingly
took a fire-stick, and I told my people to look sharp,
as they

brisk,

would not

away the

clear

the foot of the basalt

hill,

and

grass.

walked to

fired the grass in several

In an instant the wind swept the flame and

smoke towards the camp. All was confusion
the

places.

Arabs had piled the camel-saddles and all their com

and effects in the high grass about twenty yards from
the tent there was no time to remove all these things
;

therefore, unless they could clear

to stop the fire before

it

away the

grass so as

should reach the spot, they

would be punished for their laziness by losing their

The fire travelled quicker than I had exproperty.
pected, and, by the time I had hastened to the tent, 1
found the entire party working frantically the Arabs
were slashing down the grass with their swords, and
;

sweeping it away with their shields, while my Tokrooris were beating it down with long sticks and tearing

it

from

its

withered and fortunately tinder-rotten

roots, in desperate haste.

we
us

The flames rushed

on,

and

already felt the heat, as volumes of smoke enveloped

;

thought

(about 2 Gibs.)

it

advisable to carry the gunpowder,

down

to the river, together with the

XEARLY BURNT

392
rifles

while

various articles

The

fire

OUT.

[CHAP. xv.

and Mahomet dragged the

of luggage to the same place of safety.

my

wife

now approached

within about sixty yards,

and dragging out the iron pins, I let the tent fall to
The Arabs had swept a line like a highthe ground.
road perfectly clean, and they were still tearing away
the grass, when they were suddenly obliged to rush

back as the flames arrived.

Almost instantaneously the smoke blew over us, but

the fire had expired upon meeting the cleared ground.

now gave them

little

lecture

upon obedience

to

and from that day, their first act upon halting

the night was to clear away the grass, lest I should

orders
for

repeat

the

entertainment.

In

countries

that

are

covered with dry grass, it should be an invariable

rule to clear the ground around the camp before night

hostile natives will frequently fire the grass to

ward

of a party, or careless servants

may

wind-

leave their

upon the ground, which fanned by the wind

would quickly create a blaze. That night the moun-

pipes

tain

afforded

a beautiful

ascended the steep

sides,

appearance as the flames

and ran

flickering

up the

deep gullies with a brilliant light.

We were standing outside the tent admiring the

which perfectly illuminated the neighbourhood,

when suddenly an apparition of a lion and lioness

scene,

stood for a instant before us at about fifteen yards

distance,

and then disappeared over the

blackened

ground before I had- time to snatch a rifle from the

No doubt they had been disturbed from the
tent.

CROCODILE HARPOONING.

CIIAF. xv.]

mountain by the

fire,

and had mistaken

393
their

way

in

the country so recently changed from high grass to

black ashes.

In

this locality I considered it advisable

keep a vigilant watch during the night, and the

Arabs were told off for that purpose.
to

little

before sunrise I accompanied the howartis,

There
hippopotamus hunters, for a day's sport.
were numbers of hippos in this part of the river, and

or

we were not long before we found

a herd.

The hunters

harpoon them, but they

succeeded in stalking a crocodile after a most peculiar
This large beast was lying upon a sandbank
fashion.

failed in several attempts to

on the opposite margin of the

river, close to a

bed of

rushes.

The

howartis, having studied the wind, ascended for

about a quarter of a mile, and then swam across the

The two men reached the
river, harpoon in hand.
opposite bank, beneath which they alternately
or

swam down the

the crocodile

of the steep

was

waded

stream towards the spot upon which

lying.

bank,

or

Thus advancing under cover

floating

with the stream in

deep places, and crawling like crocodiles across the

shallows, the two hunters at length arrived at the
bank of rushes, on the other side of which the

monster was basking asleep upon the sand. They

were now about waist-deep, and they kept close
to the rushes with their harpoons raised, ready to
cast the

come

in

moment they should

view of the

pass the rush bed and

crocodile.

Thus

steadily ad-

vancing, they had just arrived at the corner within

THE UGLY LITTLE STATUE.

394

[CHAP. xv.

about eight yards of the crocodile, when the creature

in an instant
either saw them, or obtained their wind
;

it

rushed to the water

at the

same moment, the two

harpoons were launched with great rapidity by the

One glanced obliquely from the scales the
hunters.
;

other stuck fairly in the tough hide, and the iron,

detached from

ambatch

float,

bamboo, held fast, while the

running on the surface of the water,
the

marked the course

of the reptile beneath.

The hunters chose a convenieDt

place,

and recrossed

the stream to our side, apparently not heeding the

more

crocodiles

than

we should

fear

pike

when

They would not waste their

bathing in England.
time by securing the crocodile at present, as they
wished to
the

a hippopotamus

kill

and they would

position,

We

later.

hippopotami

accordingly
;

the float would

be- certain

our

continued

mark

to find it

search

for

these animals appeared to be on the

qui vivc, and, as the hunters once more failed in an

attempt, T made a clean shot behind the ear of one,

and

killed

dead.

it

At length we

arrived at a large

sandbanks covered with

pool in which were several
rushes, and many rocky islands.
Among these rocks

was a herd

of hippopotami, consisting of an old bull

and several cows

a youog hippo was standing, like

on a protruding rock, while

another infant stood upon its mother's back that
an ugly

little

statue,

listlessly floated

on the water.

This was an admirable place for the hunters.

desired

me

to lie

down, and they crept

They

into the jungle

HARPOONING THE HIPPOPOTAMUS.

CHAP. xv.J

out of view of the river

I presently

395

observed them

dry bed about two hundred

paces above the spot where the hippos were basking
behind the rocks. They entered the river, and swam
stealthily descending the

down

the

centre of

stream towards the rock.

the

This was highly exciting

the hippos were quite
unconscious of the approaching danger, as, steadily
and rapidly the hunters floated down the strong
:

current;

they neared the rock, and both heads dis-

in
appeared as they purposely sank out of view
a few seconds later they reappeared at the edge of
;

It
upon which the young hippo stood.
would be difficult to say which started first, the

the rock

astonished

into the water, or the har-

young hippo

poons from

the

the affair of a

hands of

moment

the

ho wart is

It

was

the hunters dived directly

they had hurled their harpoons, and, swimming for

some distance under water, they came to the surface,

and hastened to the shore

an infuriated hippoOne harpoon had missed ;

lest

potamus should follow them.

the other had fixed the bull of the herd, at which it
had been surely aimed. This was grand sport
The
!

bull

was

in the greatest fury,

and

rose to the surface,

snorting and blowing in his impotent rage

the

ambatch

float

was exceedingly

large,

but as

and

this

accompanied his movements, he tried to

escape from his imaginary persecutor, and dived con-

naturally

stantly, only to

to

find his pertinacious attendant close

him upon regaining the

last

long

surface.

the howartis were

in

This was not to

earnest,

and they

THE HARPOON

396
at

once

called

[CHAP. xv.

men

two of the

party, who, with

their

Abou Do and Suleiman, were

aggageers,
these

FIXED.

near at hand

arrived with the long ropes that form a

portion of the outfit for hippo hunting.

The whole party now halted on the edge of the

river, while two men swam across with one end of
the long rope.

gaining the opposite bank, I

observed that a second rope was made fast to the

Upon

middle of the main

line

thus upon

our side

we

held the ends of two ropes, while on the opposite

had only one accordingly, the point of

junction of the two ropes in the centre formed an
acute angle.
The object of this was soon practically

side they

Two men upon

explained.

a rope, and one of

people

these walked

Upon both

before the other.

now

our side

about ten yards

the river the

sides of

now advanced, dragging

each held

the rope on the sur-

face of the water until they reached the

ambach

float

was swimming to and fro, according to the

movements of the hippopotamus below. By a dex-

that

terous jerk

the

of

main

line,

placed between the two ropes, and

secured

in

the

acute

angle

the
it

float

was now

was immediately

by bringing together

the ends of these ropes on our side.

The men on
line,

and our men hauled in

was held
sure,

we

fast

bank now dropped their

upon the ambatch float that

the opposite

between the

ropes.

Thus

cleverly

made

quickly brought a strain upon the hippo, and,

although I have had some experience in handling big

fish, I never knew one pull so lustily as the amphi-

THE HIPPO DETERMINES TO

CHAP. xv.J

bious

animal that

we now

FIGHT.

397

coaxed and

alternately

He

sprang out of the water, gnashed his

huge jaws, snorted with tremendous rage, and lashed
he then dived, and foolishly
the river into foam

bullied.

us

approached

beneath

the

We

water.

quickly

gathered in the slack line, and took a round turn

upon a large rock, within a few feet of the river.

The hippo now

rose to the surface, about ten yards

from the hunters, and, jumping half out of the water,

he snapped his great jaws together, endeavouring to
catch the rope, but at the same instant two harpoons
Disdaining retreat, and
maddened with rage, the furious animal charged from

were launched into his

side.

a footing,

the depths of the river, and, gaining

reared his bulky form from the surface,

he

came boldly

upon the sandbank, and attacked the hunters openmouthed. He little knew his enemy they were not
;

the

men

to fear a pair of gaping jaws,

armed with a

deadly array of tusks, but half a dozen lances were

hurled at him,

some entering

his

distance of five or six paces, at the

mouth from

same time several

men threw

handfuls of sand into his enormous eyes.

This baffled him more than the lances he crunched
;

the shafts between his powerful jaws like straws, but

he was beaten by the sand, and, shaking his huge

head, he retreated to the river.
During his sally

upon the

shore,

two of the hunters had secured the

ropes of the harpoons that had been fastened in his

body

just before his charge

he was

now

fixed

by

three of these deadly instruments, but suddenly one

THE LANCES ARE BLUNTED.

[CHAP. xv.

rope gave way, having been bitten through

enraged

beast,

who was

still

beneath

the

by the
water.

Immediately after this he appeared on the surface,

and, without a moment's hesitation, he once more
charged furiously from the water straight at the
hunters, with his huge mouth open to such an extent
that he could have accommodated two inside passen-

Suleiman was wild with delight, and springing

forward lance in hand, he drove it against the head of

gers.

the formidable animal, but without

same time, Abou

Do met

effect.

At

the

the hippo sword in hand,

reminding me of Perseus slaying the sea-monster that

would devour Andromeda, but the sword made a
harmless gash, and the lance, already blunted against
once
the rocks, refused to penetrate the tough hide
;

more handfuls of sand were pelted upon

his face,

and

again repulsed by this blinding attack, he was forced

to retire to his deep hole and wash it from his eyes.
Six times during the fight the valiant bull hippo
quitted his watery fortress, and charged resolutely at
his pursuers

he had broken several of their lances in

had been hurled, and, falling

upon the rocks, they were blunted, and would not
The fight had continued for three hours,
penetrate.

his jaws, other lances

and the sun was about to

set,

accordingly the hunters

begged me to give him the coup de grace, as they

had hauled him close to the shore, and they feared he
would sever the rope with his teeth. I waited for a

good opportunity, when he boldly raised his head from

water about three yards from the rifle, and a bullet

HOR NKHETAPK

CHAP, xv.]

399

from the little Fletcher between the eyes closed tlielast

This spot was not far from the pyramidical hill
act.
beneath which

had fixed our camp, to which

returned after an amusing

The next morning,

clay's sport.

started to the mountains to

had proposed for

explore the limit that I

my

expe-

The Arabs had informed me

dition on the Settite.

that a river of some importance descended from the

mountains, and joined the main stream about twelve

The aggageers were seriously

expecting an attack from the Base, and they advised
me not to remain much longer in this spot. The
miles from our camp.

route was highly interesting

of

south-east

about five miles to the

camp we entered the

the

hilly

and

to the east rose the peaked

mountainous country
head of Allatakoora, about seven thousand feet from
;

'

the base, while S.S.E. was the lofty table-mountain,

known by
fertile

We

the Arabs as Boorkotan.

which were

valleys, all of

free

rode through

from

grass,

as

had spread throughout the country

at times we entered deep gorges between the hills,
the various

fires

which were

either

granite,

we

arrived

Hor Mdhetape,

at

the Arabs had reported.

during the

rains,

tributaries

to

the

was

it

and

at

no time did

of ten or twelve

basalt,

the

feet.

the stream that

Although a powerful torrent

insignificant as one of the

Settite,

-exceed twenty-five yards.

dry,

or

In about three hours and a

latter predominating.

half

quartz,

as

At
it

the breadth

this season it

did not

was nearly

appear to exceed a depth

As we had

arrived at

this

GEOLOGICAL FEATURES.

400

[CHAP. xv.

some distance above the junction, we continued

along the margin of the stream for about two miles
The Hor (a ravine)
until we reached the Settlte.
point,

Mehetape was the limit of

merely a rapid mountain
effect of

which would be

among

the

sudden

rise

my

exploration

torrent,

trifling

the

it

was

individual

but we were

now

mountains whose

drainage caused the

of the Atbara river and the Nile.
Far as

the eye could reach to the south and east, the range

extended in a confused mass of peaks of great altitude,

from the sharp granite head of one thousand, to flat

topped basalt

hills

of five or six thousand feet,

and

other conical points far exceeding, and perhaps double,

that altitude.

was very beautiful in this spot, as it

emerged from the gorge between the mountains, and
it lay in a rough stony valley about two hundred feet

The

Settite

below our path as we ascended from the junction of

In

the Hor, to better riding ground.

many

places,

our route lay over broken stones, which sloped at an

inclination of about thirty degrees throughout the
entire distance to the river

below

these were formed

of decomposed basalt rocks that had apparently been

washed from decaying

At

season.

hills

by the

torrents of the rainy

other parts of the route,

we

crossed above

similar debris of basalt that lay at an angle of about

sixty degrees, from a height of perhaps

feet to

the

water's edge,

and reminded me of the

rubbish shot from the side of a mountain

a tunnel.

two hundred

The whole of the

when boring

basalt in this portion of

UNPLEASANT REPORT OF THE

CHAP, xv.]

the country was a dark slate colour

it

was almost black

of pieces I

SPIES.

401

some places
upon breaking a great number

found small crystals of

in

olivine.

Much

of the granite was a deep red, but the exterior coating

was

in all cases decomposed,

exhibiting a

marked

and crumbled

at a

blow

contrast to the hard-faced granite

Lower Egypt. We
march a few nellut

blocks in the rainless climate of

saw but

and

little

tetel,

game during

the

and the smaller antelopes, but no larger

animals.

We

returned to

camp

found the howartis

late in the evening,

had secured the crocodile

yesterday, but the whole party

to the

camp

and

was anxious

of

to return

at Delladilla, as unpleasant reports

were

brought into camp by our spies, who had seen parties

of the Base in several directions.

J)

CHAPTER
ABOU DO

XVI.

GREEDY.

IS

me some

ABOU Do and Suleiman had

lately given

trouble, especially the former,

whose covetous nature

had induced him

to take

much more than

his share of

the hides of buffaloes and other animals that I had shot

all

of

which

had given

to

my

head camel-man and

Taher Noor, to divide among his people and

This conduct was the more improper,
the Tokrooris.

tracker,

had become perfectly useless as

they had ridden so recklessly upon

since the aggageers

elephant hunters

unnecessary occasions, that

all

and, with the exception of

capable of hunting.

Abou

My three,

Do's, they

proposed that

were in-

having been well cared

were in excellent condition.

for,

their horses were lamed,

should lend him

Abou Do

my

horses,

coolly

which

had a long journey before

disagreement, and I ordered him and

of course refused, as I

me

this led to

camp, and to return to Geera.

During the time they had been with me, I had shot

his people to leave

my

great numbers of animals, including large antelopes >

and about
buffaloes, hippopotami, elephants, &c.
;

CHAP, xvi.]

DEPARTURE OF THE AGGAGEERS.

403

twenty camel-loads of dried flesh, hides, fat, &c. had

been transported to Geera as the Arabs' share of the

They had also the largest share of ivory, and

altogether they had never made so successful a hunting
spoils.

expedition.

It

was time

to part

their horses being

used up, they began to be discontented, therefore I

had concluded that it would be advisable to separate,
to avoid a graver misunderstanding.
I

warned them not

to disturb

my

hunting-grounds

hunt during their journey, but they

ride straight home, which they could accom-

by

attempting to

were to

plish in four days,

without baggage camels.

they promised to do, and

we

This

parted.

was now without aggageers, as Taher Sheriff's

party had disagreed with Abou Do some time before,
I

and they were hunting on their own account on the

banks of the river Eoyan, which I intended to visit
after I should have thoroughly explored the Settite.

made up

my mind to have one more day in the

neighbourhood of my present camp, and then to return
I

to

our old

quarters

at Delladilla,

previous

to our

journey to the Epyan junction.

Within three hundred yards of the camp was a
regular game path, by which the animals arrived at
the river to drink every morning from seven to nine.
I

had shot several

t^tel

and

ariel

by simply waiting
behind a rock at this place, and, as this was my last
day, I once more concealed myself, and was shortly
rewarded by the arrival of several herds, including
nellut (A. Strcpsiceros)

tetel (A. Bubalis), ariel (G.

D D 2

GAME RETURNING FROM THE

404

the black

Dama),
small

two

this country.

and,

had seen very few

now had a good chance,

ostriches.
I

[CHAP. xvi.

striped gazelle (G. Dorcas), the

(Galotragus Montanus)

oterop

these,

RIFER.

among

ostriches in

as the herd

of animals returned from drinking

by charging at full
speed up the steep bank from the water, and they
passed

about

headed by the ostriches.

I

from

ninety yards

Having

was suddenly tempted

my
the

hiding-place,

little

Fletcher,

and

to fire a right

left,

so

bag an ostrich with one barrel, and a tetel with

the other.
Both fell for an instant the tetel dead,
as to

shot through the neck

fine

but

my

ostrich, that

was a

cock bird, immediately recovered, and went

off

with his wife as hard as their long legs could carry

I had evidently
I was exceedingly disgusted
them.
;

far behind, not

fired too

having allowed

However, to make

for the rapidity of their speed.

amends,

snatched a spare

and knocked over another

the herd.

up the tracks of the

this was impossible.
with

my

single-rifle

tetel that

For about an hour

tracker,

ostrich,

sufficiently

from Hassan,

was the

last of

attempted to follow

but among the rocky

I therefore

hills

mounted Aggahr, and

Taher Noor, and the Tokrooris as

gunbearers, I crossed the river and rode straight into

the interior of the country.

clear, as

the

fire

This was

had consumed the

the surface perfectly black.

Upon

now thoroughly

grass,

and had

left

the ashes, the track

of every animal could be seen distinctly.

I

had ridden about four

by two camels with

miles, followed, as usual,

water, ropes, &c.

when we observed

A BULL RHINOCEROS.

CHAP. XVT.]

in

open

perfectly

yards from us,

tunately, there

windward

to

about

place,

a rhinoceros

was

little

405
three

standing

hundred
For-

alone.

or no wind, or, as

we were

would instantly have perThe moment that I saw him, I backed my

ceived us.

of him, he

horse and motioned to

people to retreat out of

my

which they did immediately.

Dismounting, I
gave them the horse, and, accompanied only by Taher
Noor, who carried one of my spare rifles, I took a
sight,

Reilly No. 10,

and we made a

the wind, and to arrive

circuit so as to obtain

upon the

lee side

of the rhi-

This was quickly accomplished, but upon

arrival at the spot, he was gone.
The black ashes
noceros.

of the recent
as

fire

showed

and

were very close

knew that he had walked slowly off, and

though printed in

together, I

his foot-marks as clearly

ink,

as these

had not been disturbed, otherwise he would

have started quickly. He had gone down wind it
that he

would,
tracks.
circuit,

therefore,

be impossible to follow upon

Our only resource was

to

his

make another

when, should his tracks not have crossed the

we should be sure that he was to windward.

Accordingly, we described half a circle of about five

arc,

hundred yards. No tracks had crossed our path the

ground was stony and full of hollows, in which grew
a few scattered mimosas, while the surface of the
;

earth

was covered

in

masses of basalt rock.

many

We

places with dark

brown

carefully stepped

over

uneven ground, lest some falling stone might

give the alarm, and we momentarily expected to be
this

WE STALK THE RHINOCEROS.

406

view of the enemy

in

as

we

[CHAP. xvr.

arrived at the edge of

Sure enough, as I glanced

a sudden inclination covered with scorched

each successive hollow.

down

mimosas,

perceived

him standing on

the slope be-

neath a tree within five-and-thirty paces

close

and

enough,

The

shoulder.

this

was

took a steady shot behind the

instant

that

fired,

he

whisked

and looked upon all sides for the

I had taken the precaution to
cause of his wound.
kneel down immediately after firing, and I now
sharply round,

crouched close to a rock about two feet high, with

which

my

my

brown blouse matched

skin-covered hunting-cap.

For a few moments

an enemy, during which

remained like a block of stone, but with my finger

he sought upon
T

exactly, as well as

all sides for

on the trigger ready for the left-hand barrel should he

Taher Noor was lying on the ground behind
charge.
a stone about five yards from me, and the rhinoceros,
having failed to discover us, walked slowly past me

within less than ten yards, and gained the summit

of the

where the ground was level. As

reloaded quickly, and followed behind

inclination,

he passed, I
him.
I saw that he was grievously wounded, as he

walked slowly, and upon

mimosa he laid down.
.the tree,

and

I sent

arrival at a thickly-spreading

We now

advanced towards

Taher Noor round to the other

side in order to divert his attention should he be able

This he quickly proved by springing up as

advanced ; accordingly, I halted until Taher Noor

to rise.
I

had taken

his

stand about eighty paces beyond the

THE DEATH.

CHAP. xvi. J

407

The rhinoceros now turned and faced him

tree.

gave me the opportunity that I had expected,

and I ran quickly to within thirty yards, just in
this

time to obtain a good shoulder shot, as hearing my

Whiff! whiff! and
footsteps he turned towards me.

he charged vigorously upon the shot

but just as I
prepared to fire the remaining barrel, he ran round
and round in a narrow circle, uttering a short, shrill
cry,

and

fell

heavily upon his side.

but he was already dead.

at him,

threw a stone

Taher Noor

re-

turned for the people, who shortly arrived with the

camels.
I found that the last bullet of quicksilver

and lead from

my

Eeilly No. 10 had passed com-

pletely through the body, just behind the shoulder.

The

first

shot was also a mortal wound, having broken

and passed through the

posterior portion of the lungs the bullet was sticking
under the skin on the opposite flank. The hide of
one rib upon either

side,

the rhinoceros

is

exceedingly easy to detach from the

body, as the quality

rates

from the

is

so hard

and

stiff

that

it

sepa-

flesh like the peel of a ripe orange.

In a couple of hours, the hide had been detached

in sections for shields, and sufficient flesh was loaded

upon the camel, together with the vicious-looking

head, which was secured by ropes upon the saddle.
We were en route for the camp, when we suddenly

came upon
which,

we

fresh

elephant tracks,

discovered, after about

upon following
an hour's march,

the spoor of horses on the same path.

truth flashed

upon me

that, although

At once

the

Abou Do had

THE AGOAG MRS POACH UPON MY MANOR.

408

[CH. xvi.

promised to return direct home, lie was somewhere

in the neighbourhood, and he and his two companions

were disturbing the country by hunting.

once

I at

gave up the idea of following the elephants, as, in

all probability, these aggageers had pursued them

some hours

my

horse's

Settite

In a very bad humour

ago.

head

and

took

As we

river.

the

direction

descended from

ground, after the ride of

about four miles,

turned

the

for

the

we

hilly

arrived

upon an extensive plain, upon which I noticed a

number of antelopes galloping as though disturbed
;

few moments

camel,

later I

observed three horsemen, a

and several men

on

foot,

steering

in

the

same direction

as ourselves for the river, but arriv-

ing from

high

the

seen the elephants.

and

ground upon which we had

These were soon distinguished,

rode towards them with

my

people

they

were the aggageers, with some of the hippopotami

hunters.

among them, they looked

ex-

ceedingly sheepish, as they were caught in the

act.

Upon

our arrival

most

Suspended

carefully

upon

one

side

of

the

network of ropes, was a fine young

rhinoceros which they had caught, having hunted
camel,

the

in

mother

until

Schmidt had

she

offered

animal of this

forsook

forty

species, for the

calf,

when

had hardly directed

I

calf.

Johann

for

any young

Italian

menageries,

dollars

therefore to the aggageers this

value.

the

was a prize of great

my

attention to the

noticed a rope that was forcibly placed

THEIR PRIZE DIES.

CHAP, xvi.]

409

under the throat to support the heavy head, the

weight of which bearing upon the cord was evidently

The tongue

producing strangulation.

was

protruding,

and the

tail

of the animal

and curled

stiffened

convulsively above the back, while

twitching of

the hind legs, that presently stretched to their full

extent, persuaded

As

me

that the rhinoceros

was

in his

my

looked intently at the animal, while

Tokrooris abused Abou Do for having deceived

us,

I told

last gasp.

the aggageers that they had not gained

much by their hunt, as

For a moment Abou Do

was

the rhinoceros

dead.

smiled grimly, and, quite

unconscious ef the real fact, Suleiman replied, "It

worth forty dollars to us." "Forty dollars for a

"
who is fool
dead rhinoceros calf!" I exclaimed;

is

enough to give

"
it ?

Abou Do glanced

at the rhinoceros

his expression

he jumped from his horse, and, assisted

by the other aggageers, he made the camel kneel
as quickly as possible, and they hastened to unstrap

changed

the unfortunate

and

little beast,

which upon being released

upon its side, convulsively stretched out its

and lay a strangled rhinoceros. The aggageers

laid

limbs,

gazed with dismay at their departed prize, and,

with superstitious fear, they remounted their horses
without uttering a word, and rode away
they attributed the sudden death of the animal to the effect
;

of

My

my

"evil eye."

Tokrooris

We

turned towards

were delighted, and

talking and laughing together

upon the

our camp.

heard them
subject,

and

TAHER NOOR FACES THE

410

"

remarking upon the extremely

LION.

[CHAP. xvi.

"

bad eye

of

tlieir

master.

On

the rising of the sun next day

we had

struck

our camp, and were upon the march to Delladilla.

On

the

shot a splendid buck mehedehet (R.

way

JEllipsyprimna), and

we

arrived at our old quarters,

finding no change except that elephants had visited

and our cleanly-swept circus

was covered with the dung of a large herd. As this

them

our absence,

in

spot generally abounded with game, I took a singlebarrelled small

while

rifle,

in pitching the

men were engaged

and arranging the camp, and

tent

with Taher Noor as

the

my

strolled

only companion,

through the forest, expecting to obtain a shot at a

nellut within a quarter of a mile.
I had walked
about that

distance,

small green glade,

and had just entered upon a

when

perceived,

length upon the sand, a large

mediately sprang
a

received

bullet

up,

and

from

my

who

lion,

at

the

rifle

lying at

as

full

almost im-

same

moment

he

bounded

beneath a bush and crouched among some withered

was unloaded, when to

grass.

my

astonishment,

Taher Noor immediately drew his sword, and. with

his shield in his left hand, he advanced boldly towards
the

wounded

just

as

lion.

this

springing

reckless

distance of

reloaded as quickly as possible,

Hamran had
the lion, who

away and declined the

thick
shot.

thorns,

Taher

it

fight

arrived

positively slunk

retreating

disappeared before

Noor explained, that

within

into the

could obtain a
his

object

in

WE START FRESH

CHAP, xvi.]

GAME.

41

its attenadvancing towards the lion was to attract

tion; he had expected that it would have remained
in a crouching position until I should have reloaded
;

but he ran the extreme risk of a charge, in which

case he would have fared badly with simple sword

and

Being close to the

shield.

in addition

to

tent, I returned, and,

single barrelled

my

rifle,

took

my

two Keilly No. 10, with Hassan and Hadji All.

In company with Taher Noor we searched throughout the bushes for the
success.

wounded

now determined

to

lion,

make a

but without

hoping
that we might succeed in starting some other animal
that

would give us a better chance.

was sandy but

in

two

sides

by the

river,

land by a ravine

was bounded upon

and separated from the main

the

as

and,

walking,

The ground

we made no sound

therefore

firm,

cast,

the

forest

fire

that

had cleared the

country of grass had spared this portion, which was

an asylum for all kinds of game, as it afforded

We had not continued our
pasturage and cover.
stroll for five

by the

when we suddenly came upon two bull

who were lying beneath a thick bush on

lion,

buffaloes,

the

minutes beyond the spot lately occupied

edge of a small glade

arrived,,

and started

off.

they sprang up as we
made a quick shot as

they galloped across the narrow space, and dropped

one apparently dead with a Eeilly No. 10.
My
Tokrooris were just preparing to run in and cut
the
that

throat,

as

good Mussulmans, when the

was not twenty yards

distant,

buffalo,

suddenly sprang

A CURIOUS SHOT.

412
to his feet

and faced

[CHAP. xvi.

In another moment, with

us.

he determined upon a charge, but

hardly was he in his first bound, when I fired the
short

grunt,

remaining barrel aimed at the point of the nose, as

this was elevated to such a
degree that it would

have been useless to have

fell

stone dead at

we threw some

the shot;

find the

of the body,

marks of the

first

bullet

clods

was no mistake.

of earth at him, but this time there

Upon an examination

He

fired at the forehead.

we

that

could

only

had passed

through the neck; there was no other hole in the

skin, neither was there a sign upon the head or horns
that he had been shot
issuing from the nose,

had entered the

we

probe, and
bullet

and we found that the

bullet

nostril;

inserted a ramrod as

cut to the extremity and found the

spine,

which was shattered

to

As a souvenir

of

portion of the neck.

very curious shot,

men now

My

preserved the skull.

flayed the buffalo and took a portion of

the meat, but

as

blood

imbedded in the

pieces in a
this

at length I noticed

ordered them to leave the carcase

a bait for lions, with which this neighbourhood

abounded, although it was exceedingly difficult to

see them, as they were concealed in the dense covert
of

nabbuk bush.

left

the

through the jungle towards the

buffalo,
river.

and

strolled

As

was

surely walking through alternate narrow glades

lei-

and

thick jungle, I heard a noise that sounded like the deep

snort of the hippopotamus

bank of the

river,

approached the steep

and crept carefully

to the

edge,

CHAP, xvi.]

11

AIT FOR THE LIONS.

expecting to see the hippo as

413

peered over the brink.

Instead of the hippopotamus, a fine lion and lioness

were lying on the sand about sixty yards to my left,

At the same instant they
at the foot of the bank.
obtained our wind, and sprang up the high bank into
the thick jungle, without giving

me

a better chance

than a quick shot through a bush as they were

dis-

appearing.
I

now

returned home, determined to circumvent the

lions if possible in this

very

we were serenaded by

night

mals in

all directions,

difficult

That

country.

the roaring of these ani-

one of them having visited our

camp, around which we discovered his footprints on

I accordingly took Taher
the following morning.
Noor, with Hadji Ali and Hassan, two of
Tokrooris,
left

and went

straight to

the carcase of the buffalo.

nothing remained

my

trusty

the spot where I

As

not even a bone

I
:

had

had expected,
the ground was

much

trampled, and tracks of lions were upon the

sand

but the body of the buffalo had been dragged

into the thorny jungle.

to

get a

track left

shot,

was determined,

therefore I

by the

followed

if possible,

carefully

the

which had formed a path

Unfortunately the lions had

carcase,

in the withered grass.

dragged the buffalo down wind, therefore, after I had

arrived within the thick nabbuk and high grass, I

came
to

to the conclusion that

make

my

only chance would be

a long circuit, and to creep

up wind through

the thorns, until I should be advised by

my

nose, of

the position of the carcase, which would by this tim3

HIGHLY EXCITING.

414

[CHAP. xvi.

be in a state of putrefaction, and the lions would most

probably be with the body. Accordingly, I struck

my

off to

and continuing

left,

straight forward for

some hundred yards, I again struck

jungle, and came round to the wind.

into the thick

pended on extreme caution, therefore

three

men

rifles,

as I carried

rifle

to

my

was extremely

behind

my

me

accurate, therefore I

for this close work,

advised

with the spare

This
single-barrelled Beattie.

close

keep

Success de-

when

had chosen

it

expected to get a shot

at the eye or forehead of a lion crouching in the bush*

Softly

and with

closely

by

beneath

difficulty I crept forward, followed

my men

through the high withered grass,

dense green nabbuk bushes
peering

the

through the thick covert, with the nerves tuned up to

full pitch,

and the

emergency.

We

on the trigger ready for any

had thus advanced for about half
finger

an hour, during w^hich

I frequently applied

to within a foot of the

when

ground to catch the

nose
scent,

wind brought the unmistakedecomposing flesh. For the moment I

a sudden puff of

able smell of

halted, and, looking

that

my

we were near

round to

my

to the carcase,

to be ready with the

rifles.

men,

made

a sign

and that they were

Again

crept gently

forward, bending, and sometimes crawling, beneath

the thorns to

avoid the slightest noise.

As

I ap-

proached, the scent became stronger, until I at length

This was
felt that I must be close to the cause.

Fully prepared for a quick shot, I

A tremendous roar in the dense
stealthily crept on.

highly exciting.

MY

CHAP, xvi.]

TOKROORIS DON'T LIKE THE LIOX.

415

me

my

thorns within a few feet of

rifle

to

my

shoulder

suddenly brought

almost in the same instant I

observed the three-quarter figure of either a lion or a

me, on the other side

lioness within three yards of

of the bush, under

which

foliage concealed the head,

touched the shoulder with

and

upon the

bullet

centre of

the shoulder.

had been creeping

but

my
fired

could almost have

Much depended

rifle.

the

exactly through

Another tremendous roar

and a crash in the bushes

as the animal

made

was succeeded immediately by a

forward,

the

bound

similar roar,

and

as another lion took the exact position of the last,

stood" wondering at the report of the

for the cause of the intrusion.

rifle,

and seeking

This was a grand lion

with a shaggy mane but I was unloaded, keeping

my eyes fixed on the beast, while I stretched my hand
;

back

for a spare rifle

the lion remained standing, but

gazing up wind with his head raised, snuffing in the

enemy. No rifle was put in

looked back for an instant, and saw

my
my

Tokrooris faltering, about five yards behind me.

air for a scent of the

hand.

looked daggers at them, gnashing my teeth and shaking

my fist. They saw the lion, and Taher Noor snatching
a

rifle

from Hadji

Ali,

was just about

Hassan, ashamed, ran forward

the same

moment

to bring

it,

when

the lion disappeared at

Never was such a

fine

chance lost

I made a
through the indecision of the gun-bearers
vow never to carry a single-barrelled rifle again when
!

hunting large game.

If I

had had

my

dear

little

Fletcher 24, 1 should have nailed the lion to a certainty.

THE DYING

4 16

LIONESS.

[CHAP. xvi.

However, there was not mucli time

for reflection

Some remains

of the

upon my right, and I expected

most probably crouching in the

to find

where was the

lion

first

buffalo lay

the lion,

somewhere near
of

my

Having reloaded, I took one

No. 10 rifles, and listened attentively

Reilly

us.

Presently I heard within a few yards a

for a sound.

low growl.

thorns

Taher Noor drew his sword, and, with

his shield before him,

he searched for the

crept forward towards the

A loud

lion,

while I

sound, which was again

accompanied by a rush in the

jungle, showed us a glimpse of the lion, as he bounded
but I had no ckance
off within ten or twelve yards
repeated.

roar,

Again the low growl was repeated, and upon

quietly creeping towards the spot, I saw a splendid

to

fire.

animal crouched upon the ground among the withered

and broken grass. The lioness lay dying, with the
bullet

wound

in the shoulder.

rage, she bit her

Occasionally, in her

own paw violently, and then struck and

clawed the ground. A pool of blood lay by her side. She

was about ten yards from us, and I instructed my men
to throw a clod of earth at her (there were no stones),
to prove whether she could rise, while I stood ready

with the

and

rifle.

She merely replied with a dull

roar,

head.

terminated her misery by a ball through the

She was a beautiful animal the patch of the

bullet

was sticking

in

the

wound

she

was shot

through both shoulders, and as we were not far from

the tent, I determined to have her brought to camp
upon a camel as an offering to my wife. Accordingly

BROUGHT INTO CAMP.

CHAP, xvi.]

Tokrooris, while I

my

I left

41 7

went with Taher Noor

to

fetch a camel.

On

our road through the thick jungle, I was startled

by a rush close to me for the moment I thought it
was a lion, but almost at the same instant I saw a,
:

fine

nellut dashing

away

before me,

and

I killed it

immediately with a bullet through the back of the

neck.

This was great luck, and

two shots

camels, as in

had

we now

required two

and a

killed a lioness

nellut (A. Strepsiceros).

We

remained for some time at our delightful cam})

at Delladilla. Every day, from sunrise to sunset, I was
either

on foot or in the saddle, without

upon Sundays, which

rest,

except

at

home,
generally passed
with the relaxation of fishing in the beautiful river
Settite.
There was an immense quantity of largo

had made a mixed bag of elephants,

hippopotami, buffaloes, rhinoceros, giraffes, and great
numbers of the large antelopes.
Lions, although
game, and

there
numerous, were exceedingly difficult to bag
was no chance but the extreme risk of creeping
;

through

the

thickest

Upon two

jungle.

or three

had shot them by crawling into their

and
very dens, where they had dragged their prey
I must acknowledge
that they were much more
occasions

frightened
generally

of

me

obtained

factory shot at

than
a

close

them over with a

was of them.

most

difficult

quarters

mortal

and

sometimes

had

unsatisI

rolled

wound, and they

appeared to die in impenetrable jungle; but at

E E

disall

DIFFICULTY IN TRACKING THE LIONS.

418

times fortune was on

my

[CHAP. xvi.

On

side.

moonlight nights
I generally lay in wait for these animals with great
sometimes I shot hippopotami, and used a
patience
;

hind-quarter as a bait for lions, while I watched in

but the
ambush at about twenty yards distance
;

hyaenas

appeared

generally

like

evil

and

spirits,

dragged away the bait before the lions had a chance.

I never fired at these scavengers, as they are most
useful creatures, and are contemptible as game.
My

Arabs had made their fortune, as

had given them all

the meat of the various animals, which they dried and
I

transported to Geera, together with

fat, hides,

&c.

It

enumerate the happy huntingdays passed throughout this country. We were never
a moment
ill for
although the thermometer was

would be wearying

to

during the day, the country was

seldom below 88
healthy, as

was intensely

it

from malaria

at

dry,

and therefore

free

night the thermometer averaged

70, which was a delightful temperature for those

who exist in the open air.

As our camp was full of

meat, either dried or in

the process of drying in festoons upon the trees,

had been a great

who

constantly

attraction

prowled

during the night.

to the beasts of

around

One night

in

we

prey,

our thorn

fence

particular, a

lion

attempted to enter, but had been repulsed by the

Tokrooris, who pelted him with firebrands
my
;

people

but as

woke me up and begged me to shoot him,

it was perfectly impossible to fire
correctly

through the hedge

of

thorns,

refused to be dis-

THE LION VISITS OUR CAMP.

CHAP, xvi.]

but

turbed,

hunt

promised to

for

419

him on the

Throughout the entire night the

lion prowled around the camp, growling and utterNot one of my
ing his peculiar guttural sigh.
people slept, as they declared he would bound into
following

the
the

clay.

camp and take somebody, unless they kept up

watch-fires and drove him away with brands.

The next day,

before sunrise, I

Hassan and

called

Hadji Ali, whom I lectured severely upon their

cowardice on a former occasion, and I received their
I entrusted them
promise to follow me to death.
with my two Eeillys No. 10
and with my little
;

Fletcher in hand, I determined to spend the whole

day

in

searching
as

lions,

felt

every thicket of the forest for

convinced that the animal that

had disturbed us during the night, was concealed

somewhere within the neighbouring jungle.

The whole day passed

fruitlessly

had crept

having
through the thickest thorns in vain
abundance of meat, I had refused, the most tempting
shots at buffaloes and large antelopes, as I had
;

devoted myself exclusively to

disappointed, as the evening

was much

lions.

had arrived without a

shot having been fired, and as the sun had nearly

set,

wandered

slowly

towards

through alternate open glades of a

hemmed
carelessly

in

on

all

carrying

sides

my

by

rifle

home.

thick

upon

Passing

few yards width,

jungle,

my

shoulder,

was
as

pushed my way through the opposing thorns, when

a sudden roar, just before me, at once brought the
I

E E 2

420

PIS

rifle

full

upon

riS

WITH A

and

cock,

LION.

[CHAP. xvi.

saw a magnificent

lion

standing in the middle of the glade, about ten yards

me

from

he had been lying on the ground, and had

started to his feet

upon hearing me approach through

For an instant he stood in an attitude

the jungle.
of attention,

we were hardly

as

same moment

took

visible

but at the

quick but sure

with

shot

He

gave a convulsive bound,

but rolled over backwards before he could recover
the

little

Fletcher.

was a glorious
sight. I had advanced a few steps into the glade, and
Hassan had quickly handed me a spare rifle, while

himself, I fired the left-hand barrel.

Taher Noor stood by

me sword

It

in hand.

in the greatest fury, with his shaggy

in the

air,

roared with death-like

mouthed he endeavoured

to charge

The

mane

bristled

growls, as

upon us

lion

openbut he
.

dragged his hind-quarters upon the ground, and I

saw immediately that the little Fletcher had broken
his spine.

In his tremendous exertions to attack,

he rolled over and over, gnashing his horrible jaws,

and tearing holes in the sandy ground at each blow

tremendous paws that would have crushed

a man's skull like an egg-shell.
Seeing that he wasof his

hors de combat, I took

dusk,

and the

thick bush,

it

coolly, as it

was already
a dark and

having rolled into

thought it would be advisable to defer
lion

the final attack, as he would be dead before morning.

We

were not ten minutes' walk from the camp, at

which we quickly arrived, and my men greatly

rejoiced at the discomfiture of their enemy, as they

A SURPRISE.

CHAP, xvi.]

421

were convinced that he was the same lion that had

attempted to enter the zareeba.

On

the following morning, before sunrise,

with nearly

all

my

horse

Tetel,

and

courage,

started

people and a powerful camel, with

home

the intention of bringing the lion

my

who had

entire.

frequently

rode

shown great

wished to prove whether he w^ould

advance to the body of a

lion.

which we supposed to
have been the scene of the encounter, we were rather
arrival near the spot

Upon

locality

was nothing

as there

puzzled,

one place exactly

was

to

the

distinguish

resembled another,

as

and sandy, interspersed with

thick jungle of green nabbuk
we accordingly spread
the country

flat

out to beat for the

out

"
:

There he

to the spot,
.

Presently Hadji Ali cried

lion.

dead

"

and

immediately rode
A tremendous
together with the people.
lies,

roar greeted us, as the lion started to his fore-feet,

and with

his

beautiful

erect,

and

his

great

he gave a succession of deep

This was
and challenged us to fight.

hazel eyes flashing

short roars,

mane

fire,

a grand picture
he looked like a true lord of the
forest, but I pitied the poor brute, as he was helpless,
;

and although the spirit was game to the

strength was paralysed by a broken back.
It

the
its

was a glorious opportunity

last,

for the horse.

his

At

unexpected roar, the camel had bolted with

rider
the horse had for a moment started on one

side,

first

and the men had scattered

h;ul reined Tetel up,

and

now

but in an instant

rode straight towards

TETEL FACES THE WOUNDED LION.

422

who

the lion,

paces distant.

encounter about twenty

halted exactly opposite the noble

courted the
I

looking beast,

who,

upon
and
neck,
spoke

in

advance of the

and growled deeply,

the horse.

now

retreat.

"

Bravo

old boy

"

I said,

encouraging him by caressing his neck with

I touched his flank
gently with my heel
;

just feel

my

fixing

patted Tetel on the

him coaxingly he gazed intently

his mane and snorted, but showed

to

at the lion, erected

no signs of

me

seeing

party, increased his rage,

his glance

[CHAP. xvi.

hand upon the

rein,

my

hand,

I let

and with a

and

"

him

Come

along, old lad," Tetel slowly, but resolutely advanced

step

by

step towards the infuriated lion, that greeted

him with continued

The horse

growls.

several times

snorted loudly, and stared fixedly at the terrible face

before

him

but as

constantly patted and coaxed

him, he did not refuse to advance.

when within about

six yards

from the

would have made a magnificent

checked him
This

lion.

picture, as the horse,

with astounding courage, faced the lion at bay both

animals kept their eyes fixed upon each other, the
one beaming with rage, the other with cool determi;

This was enough I dropped the reins upon

neck
it
was a signal that Tetel perfectly

nation.
his

understood, and he stood firm as a rock, for he

that I

was about

to

fire.

knew

took aim at the head of

the glorious but distressed lion, and a bullet from the

little

Fletcher dropped

now

him

dead.

Tetel never flinched

dismounted, and having patted and

coaxed the horse, I led him up to the body of the

at a shot.

WONDERFUL COURAGE OF THE HORSE.

CHAP, xvi.]

and then gave

lion, \vhich I also patted,

the horse to smell.

hand to

snorted once or twice, and

hold of the reins, and

my

I released

He

my

423

him

left

as-

entirely

free, he slowly lowered his head, and sniffed the mane

he then turned a few paces upon
of the dead lion
:

and commenced eating the withered grass

beneath the nabbuk bushes. My Arabs were perfectly
one

side,

delighted with this extraordinary instance of courage

exhibited

was

by the

horse.

disabled, but T6tel

had known that the beast

had advanced boldly towards

the angry jaws of a lion that appeared about to spring.

The camel was now brought

we endeavoured

folded, while
its

As

back.

the camel knelt,

of eight men,

exertions

the ponderous

to the spot

and blind-

to secure the lion

it

upon

required the united

including myself, to

animal, and

to

secure

it

raise

the

across

saddle.

Although so active and

cat-like in its

movements, a

full-grown lion weighs about five hundred and

Having secured

pounds.

camp

entered

the coup
the

d'ccil

inclosure

it,

was
with

we

shortly

beautiful,

the

fifty

in

arrived

as the

camel

shaggy head and

massive paws of the dead lion hanging upon one flank,

while the tail nearly descended to the ground upon
the opposite side.
wife, to

whom

It

was

laid at full length before

my

the claws were dedicated as a trophy to

be worn around the neck as a talisman.

Not only

are

by the Arabs, but the moustache of

leather
carefully preserved and sewn in a

the claws prized

the lion

is

envelop, to

be worn as an amulet

such a charm

is

LIONS' CLAWS

424

WORN AS A CHARM.

[CHAP. xvi.

supposed to protect the wearer from the attacks of

wild animals.
In

all

probability, this

was the

lion that

was

in the

habit of visiting our camp, as from that date, although

we

the roars of such animals were our nightly music,

were never afterwards visited so

closely.

As game was plentiful, the lions were exceedingly

fat, and we preserved a large quantity of this for our

When

lamps.

for burning, as

We

it

was boiled down

it

was well adapted

it

remained nearly

liquid.

had a large supply of various kinds of

including that of elephants, hippopotami,

rhinoceros

therefore I

lions,

fat,

and

but our stock of soap was exhausted,

determined to convert a quantity of our

grease into that very necessary article.

Soap-boiling

is

not so easy as .may be imagined

requires not only

much

attention, but the quality is

dependent upon the proper mixture of the

Sixty parts of potash and forty of lime
the proportions for

nor potash, but

common

T shortly

it

soap.

alkalis.

are, I believe,

had neither lime

procured both.

The hegleek-

(Saldnites Egyptiacct) was extremely rich in

potash therefore I burned a large quantity, and made

tree

a strong ley with the ashes

boiling.

this I concentrated

There was no lime-stone

by

but the river pro-

duced a plentiful supply of large oyster-shells, that,

burned, would yield excellent lime. Accordingly

if

constructed a kiln, with the assistance of the white

The country was infested with these creatures,

which had erected their dwellings in all directions
ants.

WE COMMENCE SOAP

CHAP, xvi.]

BOILING.

425

these were cones from six to ten feet high, formed of

so thoroughly

<-lay

tion of the insects,

I selected

brick.

top, -exactly as

My

cemented by a glutinous preparathat it was harder than sun-baked

an egg-shaped

we

and cut

hill,

off the

take off the slice from an egg.

Tokrooris then worked hard, and with a hoe and

their lances, they hollowed

it

out to the base, in spite

of the attacks of the ants, which punished the legs

of the intruders considerably.

now made

a draught-

hole from the outside base, at right-angles with the

bottom of the hollow cone.

loaded

it

My

kiln

with wood, upon which

was

perfect.

T piled

about six

bushels of oyster-shells, which I then covered with

fuel,

and kept

it

This

burning for twenty-four hours.

produced excellent lime, and I commenced my soapWe possessed an immense copper pot of
boiling.

Egyptian manufacture, in addition to a large and

"
teshti."
These would
deep copper basin called a

down

boiled

of lime,
boiling,
fire,

The ley having been

great strength, I added a quantity

about ten gallons.

contain

as

to

and the necessary fat. It required ten hours

combined with careful management of the
it would
frequently ascend like foam, and

overflow the edge of the utensils.

having been constantly stirred,
Before

with

it

my

became

formed

it

it

into cakes

of about forty pounds of

of a very sporting description,

Jeroce."

turned to soap.

and

balls

hands, and the result of the manufacture

was a weight
-soap,

cold, I

However, at length,

We

most excellent

"Savon d

la bete

thus washed with rhinoceros soap

our

-SAVON A LA BETE FEROCE.

426

[CHAP. xvi.

lamp was trimmed with oil of lions our butter for

cooking purposes was the fat of hippopotami, while
;

made from

our pomade was

and

marrow

the

of buffaloes

antelopes, scented with the blossoms of mimosas.

We were

entirely independent, as our whole party

subsisted

upon the produce of the

We

now

were

members

destined

of the party.

rifle.

be deprived of two

Mahomet had become simply

and he was

unbearable,

to

rod. and the

had

so impertinent that I

was

obliged to take a thin cane from one of the Arabs

and administer a

little

spirit possessed the

man, and he bolted

physical

men who were

of the camel

An

advice.
off

evil

with some

returning to Geera with

dried meat.*

Our great
eating the
*

loss

was Barrake.

fruit of

Some months

She had persisted in

the hegleek,

afterwards he found his

although she had

way

to

Khartoum, where

he was imprisoned by the Governor for having deserted.

He

sub-

sequently engaged himself as a soldier in a slave-hunting expedition on the White Nile ; and some years later, on our return
from the Albert N'yanza we met him in Shooa on 3 north latitude.

He had
and

repented

hardships and discipline had effected a

he returned. I forgave him,

change
and took him with us to Khartoum, where we left him a sadder
like the prodigal son,

He had met many near relations during his

whom had stolen some souvenir of their cousin,
him almost naked. He also met Achmet his " mother's

but a wiser man.

long journey,

and

left

all

of

brother's cousin's sister's mother's son,"

Gondokoro

who turned up

after

some

he had joined an expedition,

;
and like all other blackguards, he had chosen the White Nile
He was the proprietor of twenty slaves, he
regions for his career.

years at

had

assisted in the

as a slave-hunter

murder of a number of unfortunate negroes, and

he was a prosperous and respectable individual.

CHAP. XYI.]

WE BURY POOR BARRAKK

from dysentery upon several occasions.

was at length attacked with congestion of the

427

She

suffered

My

liver.

wife took the greatest care of her, and for weeks

she had given her the entire produce of the goats,

hoping that milk would keep up her strength

she died after great suffering, and
creature,

and moved our 'camp.

we

but

buried the poor

CHAPTER

XVII.

WE REACH THE ROY AN.

HAVING explored

the Settite into the

gorge of the

mountain chain of Abyssinia, we now turned due

south from our camp of Delladilla, and at a distance
of twelve miles

we

reached the river

intervening country was the high and

of rich

soil,

and Atbara
trees

of

Roy an.
flat

The

table-land

that characterises the course of the Settite

rivers

this land

considerable

Roy an was through

size^

was covered with hegleek

and the descent to the

a valley, torn and washed by the

appearance to that of the Settite, but

upon a small scale, as the entire width did not exceed

rains, similar in

a mile.

Descending the rugged ground, we arrived at the

margin of the river. At this season (February) the

bed was perfectly dry sand, about ninety yards from
bank, and the high-water mark upon the
perpendicular sides was a little above nine feet deep.

bank

to

was extremely rapid thus the Royan

during the rainy season must be a most frightful
The

inclination

torrent, that supplies a large

body of water

to the

HOR MAI GUBBA.

CHAP, xvii.]

429

but winch runs dry almost immediately upon

Scttite,

the cessation of the rains.

We

descended the bank in a spot that had been

broken down by elephants, and continued our course

up stream along the sandy bed, which formed an

The surface was imprinted with the
excellent road.
footsteps of every variety of game, and numerous
deep had been dug in the sand
by the antelopes and baboons to procure water. Great
numbers of the oterop, a small reddish-brown antelope
holes about

two

feet

without horns (Calotragus Montanus) were drinking

at these little watering-places, and did not appear to
heed us. We disturbed many nellut and tetel upon
the banks, and after having marched about four miles

along the river's bed,

forest

of

Gubba.

halted at a beautiful open

at

the junction

This was a considerable

the

tributary to

through

trees

large

we

Eoyan

white

perpendicular

at

sandstone

this
cliff,

The word Gubba

is

fore the torrent

was the Nabbuk

it

spot

it

in.

Abyssinian for the Nabbuk, thereriver

this flowed

Mai Gubba, which

is

twenty-five

miles distant.

of the largest trees that

we had

had cut

was walled

Mek Nimmur, from which we

as

is

about eighty feet

quarters of

and

which

torrent,

thus upon either side

past the village of

Hor Mai

of

We

we had

camped

the head-

in

were not
a forest

as yet seen in Africa,

observed the fresh tracks of horses on

the sand, some of

my

Arabs went in search of the

aggageers of Taher Sherrif s party

pected to meet at this point.

whom

they had ex-

While they were gone,

THE FRANCOLIN PARTRIDGE.

430
took a few

men

[CHAP. xvn.

low jungle within the

forest, for francolin partridge, numbers of which I
I went up
had seen running through the covert.
I

to beat the

the dry bed of the river at the junction of the

Gubba, while they drove

compelled to
beautiful

fire

as fast as I could load,

birds flew across the

bird than the francolin

delicate

and

is

the flesh

is

to

and shortly

after

stationed on

my

was

as these

no better game
white, and of a

My

camp they arrived with

shot five

flavour.

rich

attracted the aggageers,

ravine.

There

brace almost immediately.

most

towards me, and

Hor

shots

had

return

my

Arabs, as they had been

the opposite side of the

Eoyan

in

a,

forest

within a quarter of a mile of us.

Taher Sherrif was

delighted to see us free from the

company

Do.

His party had

of

killed several elephants,

Abou

and had

captured two young ones also, two young rhinoceros,

three giraifes, and several young antelopes
these were
to be sold to Johann Schmidt, who had contracted to
;

supply the Italian agent at Cassala. I agreed to have a

long day's hunt with Taher Sherrif; we were to start
before sunrise, as he wished to ride to a spot about

twenty-five miles distant, up the course of the

Eoyan

that was a favourite resort for elephants.

That evening we had a delicious dinner of francolin

This species is rather larger than the
partridges.
French partridge it is dark brown, mottled with black
feathers, with a red mark around the eye, and double
:

spurs.

There was a small but deep pool of water in the

WE WATCH FOR

CHAP, xvii.j

GAME.

431

beneath the high bank about two

hundred paces from our canip ; this was a mere hole

bed of the

river,

about twenty feet square, and I expected that

large game might come to drink during the night.

of

Accordingly, I determined to watch for elephants, as

numerous throughout the bed of

the river.
My wife and two gun-bearers accompanied
me, and we sat behind an immense tree that grew
tracks were

their

on the bank, exactly above the drinking place. I

watched for hours, until I fell asleep, as did my men

my wife alone was awake, and

my sleeve attracted my attention.

likewise

tug at

sudden

The moon

and she had heard a noise upon the

branches of the tree above us there were no leaves,

was

bright,

some large animal upon

Tokrooris had awoke, and they

therefore I quickly observed

a thick bough.
declared

it

My

to be a baboon.

possible, as the

baboon

just preparing to

fire,

is

knew

this to

be im-

never solitary, and

when down jumped

was

a large

leopard within a few feet of us, and vanished before

I

had time

to

shoot.

It

must have

winded

our

and quietly ascended the tree to reconnoitre.

Nothing but hyaenas came to the pool, therefore we

party,

returned to camp.

According to

agreement, I went to the agga5 A.M., with Hadji Ali and Hassan,

camp .at
both mounted on
geers'

my

my

two. horses,

Aggahr and

Gazelle,

Taher Sherrif requested me not

to shoot at anything, as the shots might alarm and

while I rode Tetel.

scare

away elephants;

therefore I merely carried

my

OUT WITH THE AGGAGEERS.

432
little

Fletcher,

hunted in
horses

to his

in

Base,

who

The aggageers mounted

their

man

the

of meeting

case

this country.

each

[CHAP. XVH.

carried an

empty water-skin slung

saddle, to be filled at the river should

necessary to quit

upward course

banks.

its

We

be

started along the

of the Royan.

For seven hours we rode, sometimes

bed of the river between

through borders of

we

it

fine

along the

overhanging rocks, or
forest-trees
at other times
lofty

cut off a bend of the stream, and rode for some

miles through beautiful country diversified with

hills,

and abounding in enormous baobab-trees (Adansonia

At length we entered the mountains at
digitata).
Here the views were
the foot of the great chain.

The Royan was no longer a stream of

ninety or a hundred yards in width, but it was reduced to a simple mountain torrent about forty yards
superb.

across,

blocked in

while at others

it

many

places

by masses

had formed broad

of rock,

pools, all of

which

were now perfectly dry, and exhibited a bed of glaring

sand.
Numerous mountain ravines joined the main
channel, and as the inclination was extremely rapid,
there could be

little

doubt that the violent storms of

the rainy reason, descending from the great chain of

mountains, would, by

concentrating in

the Royan,

suddenly give birth to an impetuous torrent, that

would materially affect the volume of the Settite.

The entire country bore witness to the effect of violent
rains, as the surface

We

was torn and water-worn.

had ridden nearly thirty

miles,

having seen

THE BANKS OF THE ROYAN.

CHAP, xvn.]

433

large quantities of game, including antelopes, buffaloes,

and rhinoceros, none of which we had

we were in search of elephants. This

giraffes,

hunted,

as

was the country where the aggagcers had expected,

without

fail,

to find their game.

They now turned away from the Koyan, and

de-

scended a sandy valley at the foot of the mountains,

the bottom of which appeared to have been overflowed

Here were large

during the wet season.

strips

of

and numerous sandy watercourses, along the

dry bed of which we quickly discovered the deep
tracks of elephants.
They had been digging fresh

forest,

holes in the sand in search' of water, in which

basins

we found

a good

and rested the horses

supply

for half

welcome

we dismounted,

an hour, while the

hunters followed up the tracks on the bed of the

stream.

Upon

their return,

they reported the

ele-

phants as having wandered off upon the rocky ground,

We acthat rendered further tracking impossible.cordingly remounted,

and,

upon

arrival at the spot

where they had lost the tracks, we continued along

the bed of the stream.
We had ridden about a mile,

and were beginning

to

despair,

when suddenly we

turned a sharp angle in the watercourse, and Taher

Sherrif,

who was

leading, immediately reined in his

and backed him towards the party. I followed

example, and we were at once concealed by the

horse,
his

sharp bend of the river.

He now

was drinking from a hole

the sand, not far round the corner.

bull elephant
in

whispered, that a

F F

it

had scooped
Without the

WE FIND A BULL ELEPHANT.

434
slightest

into

[CHAP. xvn.

the hunters at once

confusion,

fell

quietly

respective places, Taher Sherrif leading,

followed closely in the line, with my Tokrooris

their

while I

bringing up

the

rear

we were

a party of seven

horses.

Upon

turning the corner,

was

elephant, that

still

we

at once perceived the

was a

It

drinking.

fine bull

the enormous ears were thrown forward, as the head

was lowered

in

the

through the trunk

the

act

up the water

of drawing

these shaded the eyes, and, with

wind favourable, we advanced

we were

the sand to within twenty yards before

ceived.

upon

noiselessly

The elephant then threw up

its

per-

head, and,

with the ears flapping forward, it raised its trunk

for an instant, and then slowly, but easily, ascended
the steep bank, and retreated.
halted

for

about a minute to

The aggageers now

confer together, and

then followed in their original order up the crumbled

We were now on most unfavourable ground
bank.
;

the fire that had cleared the country we had hitherto

traversed had been stopped by the bed of the torrent.

We

were thus plunged at once into withered grass

above our heads, unless we stood in the stirrups the
;

ground was strewed with fragments

gether it was ill-adapted for riding.
Sherrif broke into a trot, followed
as the elephant

was not

in sight.

of rock,

and

alto-

However, Taher

by the

We

entire party,

ascended a

hill,

and when near the summit, we perceived the elephant

It was looking behind
about eighty yards ahead.
during

its

retreat,

by swinging

its

huge head from

1IELTER SKELTER.

CHAP, xvii.]

435

and upon seeing us approach, it turned

"
Be ready, and take
suddenly round and halted.
"
care of the rocks
said Taher Sherrif, as I rode forside to side,

ward by

when

of caution,
its

Hardly had he uttered these words

his side.

the bull gave a vicious jerk with

head, and .with a shrill scream

upon us with the greatest

helter shelter, through the
in

all

down
went,

which whistled

grass,

ears, over the hidden rocks,

my

charged

Away we

fury.

dry

it

at

full gallop,

with the elephant tearing after us for about a hundred

and eighty yards

.sure-footed horse,

upon the

tremendous pace. Tetel was a

and, being unshod, he never slipped

at a

Thus, as

stones.

directions, the elephant

it

and

scattered in different

all

became confused, and

relin-

had been very near me at one

such ground I was not sorry when

quished the chase

time,

we

in

it

We now

gave up the hunt.

quickly united, and

again followed the elephant, that had once more retreated.

view.

Advancing

we

at a canter,

shortly

came

in

seeing the horses, the bull deliberately

Upon

entered a stronghold composed of rocky and uneven

ground, in the

clefts

grew thinly a few

of which,

the thickness of a man's

leafless trees,

turned boldly towards

us,

leg.

It

then

and stood determinedly

at

bay.

Now came the

dos3 to me and
elephant, as

we
"

rocky ground
the fight as

it

tug of war
said,

shall

Taher Sherrif came

"You had
have great

better

F F 2

the

in

this

difficulty

this I declined, as I

had been commence

shoot

1,

wished to end

with the sword

THE ELEPHANT AT

436

and

BAY.

[CHAP,

xvn

proposed that lie should endeavour to drive the

animal to more favourable ground. " Never mind/'
I

"

replied Taher,

Inshallah

He now

beat us."

advised

(please

me

to

and to look sharp

as possible,

move

of the

keep as

close to

like a statue

beyond a quick and

that were watching all

a muscle

eyes,

shall not

him

for a charge.

The elephant stood facing us

not

God) he

it

did

restless action

Taher

sides.

youngest brother Ibrahim now

separated, and each took
opposite sides of the
elephant, and then joined each other about twenty
I accompanied them, until Taher
yards behind it

and

Sherrif

his

me

advised

left flank.

same distance upon the

Tokrooris kept apart from the scene,

to keep about the

My

were not required. In front of the elephant

were two aggageers, one of whom was the renowned
as they

Kodur

Sherrif,

with the withered arm.

ready for action, Eodur now

head of the cunning old
awaiting an opportunity to

All

being
rode slowly towards the

bull,

make

who was
certain of

quietly

some one

who might give him a good chance.

Rodur Sherrif rode a bay mare, that, having been
thoroughly trained to these encounters, was perfect at
Slowly and coolly she advanced towards
her wary antagonist, until within about eight or nine
the creature never
yards of the elephant's head
her work.

moved, and the mise en scene was beautiful not a

word was spoken, and we kept our places amidst
;

utter

stillness,

snort

from

which was
the

mare,

at

who

length

broken

by

gazed

intently

at

CHAP. XVIL]

RODUR WITH THE WITHERED ARM.

the elephant, as though watching for the

437

moment

of

attack.

One more pace forward, and Rodur

his

with

mare,

me

exclaimed.

saw the white of the eye

"
Look out. Rodur
he's coming
O

"
':

away over

9.

With

dashed upon him

Round went

upon

upon those of the

fixed

eyes

For an instant

elephant.

nearest to

his

sat coolly

like

shrill

the

scream,

an avalanche

the mare as though

elephant

upon a

and

pivot,

rocks and stones, flying like a gazelle, with

the monkey-like form of

Rodur Sherrif leaning

little

forward, and looking over his

left

shoulder as

the

elephant rushed after him.

thought he must be caught. Had

the mare stumbled, all were lost but she gained in
the race after a few quick bounding strides, and

For a moment

Rodur,

still

looking behind him, kept his distance so

close to the elephant, that its outstretched

within a few feet of the mare's

trunk was

tail.

Taher Sherrif and his brother Ibrahim swept down

like falcons in the rear.
In full speed they dexterously avoided the trees, until they arrived upon open

ground, .when they dashed up

quarters of the furious elephant, who,

excitement, heeded nothing but

the

mare, that were almost within

to

the tail of the elephant,

to

close

the

hind-

maddened with
Rodur and

its grasp.

When

his

close

Taher Sherrif s sword

flashed from its sheath, as grasping his trusty blade he

nimbly to the ground, while Ibrahim caught the

reins of his horse
two or three bounds on foot, with
leapt

THE SWORD WINS THE DAY.

438

[CHAP. xvn.

the sword clutched in both hands, and he was close

a bright glance shone like
behind the elephant
lightning, as the sun struck upon the descending
this was followed by a dull crack, as the sword
steel
;

cut through skin and sinews, and settled deep in the

At

the

halted dead short in

the

bone, about twelve inches above the

next

stride,

the elephant

foot.

tremendous charge.
Taher had jumped
quickly on one side, and had vaulted into the saddle
with his naked sword in hand. At the same moment,
midst of

its

who had

Rodur,

led the chase, turned sharp round,

and again faced the elephant

as before

stooping

quickly from the saddle, he picked up from the

ground a handful of dirt, which he threw into the face

more attempted
was impossible the foot was

of the vicious-looking animal, that once

upon him. It
dislocated, and turned up in front like an old shoe.
In an instant Taher was once more on foot, and again
the sharp sword slashed the remaining leg.
The

to rush

great bull elephant could not

move

the

first

cut

with the sword had utterly disabled it ; the second

was its death blow ; the arteries of the leg were
divided,

wounds.

and the blood

I

spouted in jets from the

wished to terminate its misery by a

bullet behind the ear, but Taher Sherrif begged

not to

fire,

as the elephant

me

would quickly bleed to

death without pain, and an unnecessary shot might

attract the Base, who would steal the flesh and ivory

during

our

absence.

We

were

obliged

to

return

immediately to our far distant camp, and the hunters

CHAP, xvn.]

THE NIMBLE BAKE DIXE CHEAPLY.

resolved to

accompany

their camels to the spot

We

the following day.

439

turned our horses'

rode direct towards home, which

upon
heads, and

we did not reach

having ridden upwards of sixty

until nearly midnight,

miles during the day.

The hunting of Taher Sherrif and his brothers

was superlatively beautiful with an immense amount
;

was a

of dash, there

mode

their

decide

which

manner

in

that far excelled the impetu-

of attack,

ous and reckless onset of

to

sportsman-like

cool,

Abou Do

was

it

difficult

admire the most, whether the

to

and courage of him who led the elephant,

or the extraordinary skill and activity of the aggahr
coolness

who dealt
On the

the fatal blow.

following day, the hunters started to the

dead elephant with camels and sacks, but they rethe nimble
turned at night thoroughly disgusted
;

Base had been before them, most probably attracted

to the

by the cloud

carcase
in

gathered

the

air.

had

of vultures that

remained but the

Nothing

bones and skull of the elephant, the flesh and the

The

ivory had been stolen.

ber of

men were

aggageers

tracks of a great

num-

upon the ground, and the

left

were fortunate to return without an

at-

tack from overwhelming numbers.

After hunting and

this

neighbourhood,

of the

Boy an

exploring

for

some days

determined to follow the bed

to its junction with the

started at daybreak,

the sandy bed,

in

and

hemmed

after a long

in

Settite.

We

march along

by high banks, or by

THE GREAT WHIRLPOOL.

440

junction

of

cliffs

precipitous

this

was a

The

Royan was extremely

arrived

and

curious

during the rainy season.

it

we

sandstone,

[CHAP. xvir.

at

frightful

the
spot

entire course of the

rapid, but at this

entered a rocky pass between two

extremity,

hills,

and leapt

grand falls into a circular basin

This pecuof about four hundred yards diameter.

in a succession of

liar

basin

with trees

was surrounded by high cliffs, covered

to the left was an island formed by a

rock about sixty feet high

at the foot

was a deep

and narrow gorge through which the Settite river

made its exit from the circle. This large river entered the basin through a rocky gap, at right angles

with the rush of water from the great falls of the

Koyari, and as both streams issued from gorges

which accelerated their velocity to the highest deformed a tremendous whirlpool

gree, their junction
:

thus, the basin

which was now dry, with the excep-

tion of the single contracted stream of the Settite,

was

in

the

season a most frightful scene of

rainy

giddy waters. The sides of this basin were, for

about fifty feet from the bottom, sheeted with white

had been

sand that

there

left

force of the revolving waters

servoir

had

by the

centrifugal

the funnel-shaped re-

greatest depth beneath the

its

mass of

rock that formed a barrier before the mouth of the

exit.

From

upon the

rock,

imate depth

We

the appearance of the high-water

it

was easy

when

pitched our

the

to ascertain the approx-

flood

camp on

mark

was

at its

maximum.

the slope above the basin,

THE ROYilN JUNCTION WITH THE

CHAP,

xvn

and

for several

days

In

all

many

441

explored the bed of the river,

which was exceedingly interesting

when

SETTITE.

at this

dry season,
the secrets of its depths were exposed.
places, the rocks that choked its bed for

a depth of thirty and forty feet in the narrow

passes, had been worked into caverns by the constant
In one portion of

of the rolling pebbles.

attrition

the river, the bottom was almost smooth, as though

had been paved with

it

flagstones

this

was formed

by a calcareous sediment from the water, which had

hardened into stone
in some places this natural
;

pavement had been broken up

the force of the current, where

into large slabs

it

by
had been under-

This cement appeared to be the same that

mined.

had formed the banks of conglomerate, which in

some places walled in the river for a depth of ten
or fifteen feet, with a concrete of rounded pebbles of
all

from a nutmeg to a thirty-two pound shot.

fired the grass on the west bank of the Eoyan,

sizes,

and the blaze extended with such

a few hours
cleared.

On

many

miles

rapidity, that in

of country

were entirely

the following morning, the country looked

as though covered with a pall of black velvet.

To

my

astonishment there were the fresh tracks

of a rhinoceros within

camp
the

bed

this

of

a quarter of a mile of the

animal must have concealed

the

wandered forth

itself

in

Eoyan during the fire, and had

I followed
when it had passed.

up

the tracks with Bacheet and two of

In

less

my

than half a mile from the spot,

Tokrooris.
I

found

it

A BULL RHINOCEROS.

442

down behind

lying
of

an

a Keilly No.

10

a bush, and, creeping under cover

shot

ant-hill, I

it

[CHAP. xvn.

through the shoulder with

immediately galloped off, but
it

run of a couple of hundred yards

after

down

laid

it

on the edge of thick thorny jungle that bordered

the margin of the Eoyan.

would shortly die, but

and walked slowly into the .thorns.

tation
rose,

in the expec-

I waited,

that

it

suddenly
Determined

it

pushed through the bushes,

intending to reach the dry bed of the Royan and
shoot the rhinoceros as it crossed from the narrow

to cut off its retreat, I

which

belt of jungle, into

it

had retreated

but

had hardly reached half way, when I heard a sound

in the bush upon my right, and I saw the wounded
beast coming straight for our position, but evidently

unconscious of our presence, as

we were

to leeward.

immediately crouched down, as did my men likewise, lest the animal should observe us.
Slowly, but
I

surely, it

came on exactly towards

at last so near as to be unpleasant

me, and

until it

us,

was

looked behind

saw by the expression of

my men

that

they were thinking of retreat. I merely shook my

fist and frowned at them to give them confidence,

and

waited patiently for

my

opportunity.

It

was

becoming too ridiculous the rhinoceros was within

five or six yards, and was slowly but steadily ad;

vancing direct upon

made,

I raised

my

whistled sharply
up,

and

seeing

rifle

in

At

us.

the next step that he

gently to

an instant

nothing

in

my
it

front,

shoulder,

tossed
as

my

its

and
head

clothes

BACHEET HAS TO RUX.

CHAP, xvn.]

matched with the

the

to
It

fell

and

left,

as

leafless bushes,
I

it

443
turned

its

immediately pulled the

head

trigger.

though smitten by a sledge hammer, and

s

on the ground.
Bacheet sprang
forward, and with an Arab sword he cut the hamit

lay

struggling

To the astonishment

string of one leg.

the rhinoceros

jumped

quickly round and

up,

and on three

charged Bacheet,

of us

legs

who

it

all,

sprang
skipped

into the bushes, while I ran alongside the rhinoceros

as it attempted to follow him, and, with the Fletcher

No.

through the shoulder, by placing

the muzzle within a yard of the animal.
It fell
I

24,

dead to

fired

this shot,

cap of the good

ceros

is

temple,

which was another feather in the

little rifle.

The

very curiously shaped

skull of the rhinoI

had

fired for the

and had struck the exact point at which

had aimed, but, instead of hitting the brain, the

bullet had smashed the joint of the jaw, in which
it stuck fast.
I never have been able to understand
I

why

that powerful

had been some

rifle

was thus

baffled, unless there

error in the charge of powder.

This

they had been bitten off

close to the head
by another of the same species,
while fighting; this mutilation is by no means

rhinoceros

had no

ears,

uncommon.

From

this

point I

traversed

the

country in

all

upon one occasion I took a large supply

of water, and penetrated into the very heart of the
Base, half way between the Settite and the river
directions

Gash or Mareb, near the base of the mountain chain

EGYPTIANS INVADED NIMMURS COUNTRY.

414

CHAP. [xvn.

but, although the redoubtable natives were occasion-

they were as shy as wild animals, and

we could not approach them.
ally

seen,

Having explored the entire country, and enjoyed

myself thoroughly, I was now determined to pay our
promised visit to Mek Nimmur. Since our departure
from the Egyptian
invaded by a large

territory,
force,

as

usual

orders

sent

Mek

Soudan.

of the

retreated to

Mai Gubba and a number

country had been

according to

from the Governor-General

Nimmur

his

mountains, but

the

of his villages were utterly

destroyed by the Egyptians.

He

would, under these

circumstances, be doubly suspicious of strangers.

camel-men had constantly brought me the

news on their return from Geera with corn,* and they

My

considered that

it

was unsafe

Mek Nimmur
me to be a spy

to visit

he might believe
he was a great
Egyptians

after his defeat, as

from

the

friend

of

Theodorus, the King of Abyssinia, and as at that

time he was on good terms with the English, I

saw no reason

We
among

to avoid his country.

arrived at Ombrega, but, instead

the thick jungle as formerly,

of camping

we bivouacked

under four splendid tamarind trees that formed a

clump among the rocks on the left bank of the river,

and which shaded a portion of

was a delightful resting-place.
*

Among

its

We

sandy bed this

were now only

other news, I was glad to hear that

could walk without

difficulty.

my

patient Jali

OUR ARABS DECLINE TO PROCEED.

CHAP, xvii.]

445

one day from Geera, and we sent a messenger to the

sheik of the Hamrans, who shortly returned with a
about seventeen as a corn-grinder in the
she was hired from her owner at
place of Barrake
a dollar per month.

young

girl of

My

camel-men had determined not

Mek Nimmur's

country,

as

they feared that their

camels might be stolen by his people

came

to

me

to proceed to

they therefore

one evening, and coolly declared that they

should return to Geera, as

Mek Nimmur.

It

w as
r

reminded them that

it

would be

folly to

tempt
and

in vain that I protested,

had engaged them

to

accom-

pany me throughout the exploration. They were afraid

of losing their camels, and nothing would satisfy them ;
they declared that they required no wages, as the meat
and hide &c. they had received were sufficient for their

but through Mek Nimmur's country they

were determined not to go. Taher Noor was the only
man who was willing, but he had no camel. We had
services,

constructed

fence of thorns around our camp, in

which the camels were now reposing, and, as the argument had .become hot, the Arabs expressed their determination of starting homewards that very instant, and
we were to be left alone, unless they could persuade
other

men

of their tribe to join us with their animals.

Accordingly, they at once proceeded to saddle their

Without saying ancamels for an immediate start.
other word, I quietly took

cocked both barrels as

exit

from the camp.

my

I sat

little

Fletcher

rifle,

and

within ten yards of the

The men were

just ready to

OBLIGED TO THREATEN THE CAMELS.

446
depart,

bye," I said

my

give

arrive at Geera

you

"

Good

salaams to the sheik

when

and several had mounted

"

but the

[CHAP. xvn.

their camels.

first

camel that passes

the gate of the zareeba (camp) I shall shoot through

They had heard the sharp click of the

and they remembered the firing of the grass on a

the head."
locks,

former occasion

when

not a camel moved.

now came
to

shoot

had nearly burnt the camp

My Tokrooris and Taher Noor
I

forward as mediators, and begged

the

camels.

replied to this

As

demand

had the

rifle

and

conditionally, that the

:

Arabs

this led

agreed to become responsible for

the value of the camels should they be stolen in

The

Nimniur's country.

On March
we were

1 6th,

not

pointed, I

should dismount and unsaddle immediately

to a parley,

me

affair

was

Mek

settled.

the day following this argument, as

evening beneath our trees in

suddenly heard the rattle of loose

sitting in the

the river's bed, I

and immediately after, a man on a white hygecn

appeared from the jungle on our side of the river,
stones,

followed quickly by a string of Arabs,

who

silently followed in single

They had not noticed

us, as

file

we were

all

well mounted,

towards the ford.

close to the high

rocky bank upon their left, in the deep shade of the

tamarind trees. I counted twenty-three their shields
;

and swords were slung upon their hygeens, and, as

their clothes were beautifully clean, they had evidently
morning from their homes.
The leader had reached the ford without observing
us, as in this wild spot he had expected no one, and

started that

THE TROOP ON A FORAY.

CHAP, xvn.]

447

when

the whole party were astonished and startled

"

Salaam aleisuddenly addressed them with a loud

kum" (peace be with you). At first they did not
re-ply, but as I advanced alone, their leader also advanced from his party, and we met half way. These
were a troop of Mek Nimmur's people on a foray. I
quickly explained

come and drink

who

coffee

him

was, and I invited

to

beneath the shade in our camp.

Taher Noor now joined

us,

and confidence having been

established, the leader ordered his party to cross the

ford

and

to unsaddle

on the opposite side of the

was rather
(cap),

me

to our camp.

At

suspicious, but a present of a

new

while he accompanied

and a few

articles of trifling value,

river,

first

he

tarboosh

quickly reas-

sured him, and he promised to be our guide to Mek

Nimmur in about a couple of days, upon his return from

a marauding expedition on the frontier

his party
had appointed to unite with a stronger force, and to
;

make

a razzia

upon the

cattle of the

Dabaina Arabs.

During the night, the marauding party and their

leader departed.

There was no game at Ombrega, therefore

ployed the interval of two days in cleaning
rifles,

and

in

preparing for a fresh

that of the Settite and

The

short

cylinder,

em-

all

the

expedition, as

Eoyan had been completed.

Tatham No. 10

rifle

instead of the original

carried
spherical

neavy

ball.

had only fired two shots with this rifle, and the
recoil had been so tremendous, owing to the heavy
weight of the projectile, that I had mistrusted the

NARROW ESCAPE THE

448

weapon
off all

angel

when

therefore,

RIFLE BURSTS.

moment

the

the guns preparatory to

a

whispered

agreed to

fire this

particular

rifle

by

be fastened to a

blew

It

tree.

all

shattered into fragments

shoulder-plate.

was small
cylindrical

manner,

in

to

proportion

projectile.

such sportsmen

who

to

five

the

killed

of

the

This

may

that

were proved with the

be a warning to
adapt new-fashioned projectiles

spherical bullet,

this

I fired that

weight

which in weight and

friction bears

to the

should

showed great

had received

drachms, which

rifles,

rifle

had

to old-fashioned

no proportion

gun should
The
pieces

must have been

The charge was

spot.

a long fishing-

nothing remained but the

a mysterious presentiment of this

rifle in the usual

good
and I

and the stock was

locks were blown entirely away,

thick end near the

fire

my

warning,

the trigger, while the

line attached to

on the

arrived to

cleaning,

providential

[CHAP. xvn.

heavy cylinder; nevertheless,

not have burst, and the metal

inferiority,

by blowing

into fragments

instead of splitting.

The leader of Mek Nimmur's party returned, as

I extract from
he had promised, to be our guide.

my
"

journal, verbatim,

March

my

19, 1862.

notes upon that date.

Started at 1.30

P.M.,

and halted

no water for about thirty miles,

thus we had watered all the animals at their usual hour
at 5 P.M.

(noon),

There

and they

morrow evening.
Settite valley,

is

will

accordingly endure until to-

Upon

ascending the slope of the

the country

is

an immense plain of

CHAP, xvii.]

WE MARCH FROM THE

fertile

about two hundred feet above the

soil,

SETTITE.

449
river.

While on the march, I espied a camel wandering

without an owner; this was immediately secured as
a lawful prize by our guide.

Mahomet

is

scoundrel

he

and

height,

he

about

thin

as

as

and

so crafty-looking,

were to lock him up

and

so wiry
I

man

a live

out-and-out

ten

feet

five

name

fellow's

an

doubtlessly,

is,

is

This

in

inches

can be

he

is

eel-like, that if I

should secure the key-hole,

as he looks capable of squeezing through anything.

We

on the

slept

11

March

we reached

plain.

Started at 5 A.M., and in three hours

20.

chain of lofty

the

bound the

plain.

this point,

we

wooded

In a march of four hours from

arrived at a hor, or ravine,

halted beneath

that

hills

a large

tamarind

tree,

when we

and pitched

the tent according to the instructions of our guide,

The

plain from the Settite to the base of the hilly

we had

range that
miles

wide by forty

table-land

in

this

cotton cultivation.

is

crossed,
in

length,
it

country,

Were

about twenty-two

is

and
well

the route

like

all

the

adapted for

secure through

the Base country, loaded camels might reach Cassala

in six days,

country
the
at

first

is

and from thence

uninhabited.

hill,

On

to Souakim.

arrival at the base of

a grove of tamarinds shades a spring,

which we watered our

horses,

impregnated with natron, which is

out this country, and appears in

an

All this

efflorescence

but the water

common

many

is

throughplaces

on the surface of the ground.

G G

as

From

INTERESTING ROUTE.

450

the spring at the

ascended a rugged

among
the

ravines,

mass

both

of

that

similar to

hills,

we

some miles

for

winding

pass,

the

of

and crossing elevated shoulders of

summit, we passed a rich
rose-coloured and white limestone,

Upon

range.

base

eastern

[CHAP. XVH.

the

we had

seen

Geera

at

was

this

surrounded by basalt, and the presence of limestone

entirely mystifies

my

of geology.

ideas

quantities of very beautiful spar lay

in

all

directions

and veined
cornelian

like

some of

this

an agate

Immense

upon the

was

surface

perfectly white,

believe

it

was white

other fragments, of sizes equalling sixty

seventy pounds weight, were beautifully green,

or

suggesting the presence of copper.

exquisite bloodstone, the size

exceedingly numerous.

descended to a rich

with

grass,

Large masses of
of a man's head, were

Having crossed the hills, we

and park-like valley, covered

and ornamented with

dhurra was

cultivated,

and

fine timber.

several

Much
were

villages

had been plundered by the Egyptians

This country must be
during the recent attack.

passed, that

exceedingly unhealthy

during the rainy season, as

the

rich,

soil

rounded

is

by

extremely
hills,

and

the

tamarind-tree,

thirty-five miles south,

Our camp was

10

at

sur-

valleys,

would become swamps.

the Settite river, at Ombrega,

beneath

the

From

our halting-place
this spot, is about

to

east."

in a favourable locality, well shaded

by large trees, on the margin of a small stream this

was nearly dry at this season, and the water was
;

MINERAL WEALTH OF ABYSSINIA.

CHAP, xvii.]

451

I
extremely bad, having a strong taste of copper.
had remarked throughout the neighbourhood unmis-

takable evidences of the presence of this metal

surface of the rocks

was

in

many

the

places bright green,

like malachite, and, upon an exploration of the bed

of the stream, I found veins of a green substance in

the perpendicular

cliffs

that had been cut through

by

These green veins passed through a bed

the torrent.

of reddish, hard rock, glistening with minute crystals,

There is no
have been copper.
doubt that much might be done were the mineral

which

I believe to

wealth of this country thoroughly investigated.

The day following our arrival, was passed in receiving

visits

men

the head

of people,

as

from a number of Abyssinians, and

There was a mixture
of Mek Nimmur.

many

of the Jaleen

Arabs who had

committed some crime in the Egyptian territory, had

fled across the country and joined the exiled chief of
their tribe.

Altogether, the society in this district

was not crdme

territory

de

la

was an asylum

adjoining

excitement

countries,

and

as

creme,

Mek Mimmur s

for all the blackguards of the

who

were

lawlessness

of

by the

attracted

continual

border

The troop that we had seen at Ombrega

returned with a hundred and two head of camels,
warfare.

that they had stolen from the west bank of the Atbara.

Mounted upon hygeens, Mek Nimmur's

irregulars

thought nothing of marching sixty miles in one day,

thus their attack and retreat were equally sudden and
unexpected.

G G 2

PRESENT TO MEK NIMMUR.

452
I

size

[CHAP. xvn.

had a quantity of rhinoceros hide in pieces of the

these were much prized in
required for shields
;

fighting country, and I presented them to a

number of head men who had honoured us with a
this

begged them to guide two of my people to

the presence of Mek Nimmur, with a preliminary
This they promised to perform. Accordmessage.
visit.

ingly, I sent

Taher Noor and Bacheet on horseback,

with a most polite message, accompanied with my

card in an envelop, and a small parcel, carefully

wrapped

in four or five different papers

this contained

a very beautiful Persian lance-head, of polished steel

inlaid with gold, that I had formerly purchased at
Constantinople,

During
visitors,

their

the

absence,

Abyssinians

we were inundated with

in their tight

pantaloons
In
with
the
Arabs.
contrasting strongly
loosely-clad
about an hour, my messengers returned, accompanied

by two men on horseback, with a hospitable message

from Mek Nimmur, and an invitation to pay him a
I had some trifling present
visit at his own residence.
ready for everybody of note, and, as Taher Noor and

my

people had already explained

cerning us,

Mek Nimmur's

all

they

suspicions

knew

had

con-

entirely

vanished.

As we were conversing with Mek Ninmmr's messengers through the medium of Taher Noor, who

knew

their language, our attention

the arrival of a tremendous swell,

thought must be

Mek Nimmur

was

who

himself.

attracted

by

at a distance I

snow-white

THE ABYSSINIAN MINSTREL.

CHAP. xvn.J

453

mule carried an equally snow-white person, whose

tight white pantaloons looked as though he had forgotten his trowsers, and had mounted in his drawers.

He
a

carried a large umbrella to shade his complexion

of

pair

handsome

silver-mounted

were

pistols

arranged upon his saddle, and a silver-hilted curved

sword, of the peculiar Abyssinian form,
side.

This

grand personage

attendant, also

hung by

his

was followed by an

mounted upon a mule, while

several

accompanied them, one of whom carried his lance and shield.

Upon a near approach,

men on
he
us,

foot

immediately dismounted, and advanced towards

bowing in a most foppish manner, while his

attendant followed
violin,

fiddle

him on

foot

with an enormous

which he immediately handed to him. This

was very peculiar in shape, being a square, with

an exceedingly long neck extending from one corner

upon this was stretched a solitary string, and the bow

was very short and much bent. This was an AbysHe was a professional minstrel of
sinian Paganini.
the highest grade,
to

who had been

welcome us on our

sent

by Mek Nimmur

arrival.

These musicians are very similar to the minstrels of

ancient times; they attend at public rejoicings, and
at births, deaths,

and marriages of great personages,

upon which occasions they extemporize

their songs

hunting in the Base

country formed his theme, and for at least an hour
he sang of my deeds, in an extremely loud and dis-

according to circumstances.

My

agreeable voice, while he accompanied himself

upon

RICHARD C(EUR DE LION.

454
his fiddle,

[CHAP. xvn.

which he held downwards

like a

violin-

during the whole of his song he continued in

movement, marching with a sliding step to the front,
cello

and gliding
if

to the right

and

left

in a

manner

that,

The

intended to be graceful, was extremely comic.

substance of this minstrelsy

by Taher Noor, .who

was explained

to

me

listened eagerly to the words,

which he translated with evident

satisfaction.

was an absurd

course, like all minstrels, he

Of

flatterer,

and, having gathered a few facts for his theme, he

wandered

description of

He

from

slightly

sang of

my
me

the

truth

in

his

poetical

deeds.

as

had been Eichard Cceur

though

de Lion, and recounted, before an admiring throng of

listeners, how "I had wandered with a young wife

my own

from
Base

how

how

had

them

slain

in single

elephants and lions were struck

and kids by
the hunt,

my

my

that I had, on

the terrible

distant country to fight

hands

that during

combat

down

my

and

lambs

like

absence in

wife had been carried off by the Base

my

return to

my

pillaged camp, gal-

loped off in chase, and, overtaking the enemy, hundreds had fallen by
liberated

my

rifle

and recovered the

and sword, and

lady,

who

now

had
had

arrived safe with her lord in the country of the great

Mek

Niminur," &c. &c. &c.

very pretty, no doubt, and as true as

most poetical and musical descriptions, but I felt
certain that there must be something to pay for this
This was

all

flattering entertainment

if

you are considered

to be

PART WITH MY DEAR MARIA THERESA.

CHAP. xvn.J /

a great man, a present

is

invariably expected in pro-

portion to your importance.

Noor that

"What!"

Taher

said

Impossible

Noor,

suggested to Taher

must give him

"

couple

couple

a musician of his standing

to receive thirty

and

455

is

of

dollars.

of dollars?

accustomed

forty dollars from great people,

and honourable a song."

I began
This was somewhat startling

for so beautiful

to reflect

upon the price of a box at Her Majesty's Theatre in

London but there I was not the hero of the opera
;

combined the whole

minstrel

this

simple manner
all in

one

therefore I
fiddler.

few

most

he was Verdi, Costa, and orchestra

he was a thorough Macaulay as historian,

had

pay the composer as well as the

compromised the matter, and gave him a

dollars, as I

to

understood that he was

mur's private minstrel, but

dear

in a

affair

Maria Theresa *

Mek Nim-

never parted with

with so

much

my

regret as

upon
incommode
him
not
to
begged
oo
himself by paying us another visit, or, should he be
obliged to do so, I trusted he would not think it
that occasion,
7

and

necessary to bring his violin.

The minstrel
and

retired in the

same order that he had

watched his retreating figure with

unpleasant reflections, that were suggested by doubts
as to whether I had paid him too little or too much
arrived,

Taher Noor thought that he was underpaid

my own

opinion was, that I had brought a curse upon myself

*

The Austrian

country.

dollar, that is the

only large current coin in that

THE GHOST OF THE DEPARTED FIDDLER.

456

London

equal to a succession of

[CHAP. xvn.

a,s

organ-grinders,

fully expected that other minstrels,

of the Austrian dollars,

my

sing of

In

the

great deeds.

afternoon,

we

could perceive

were

near,

tical

minstrel,

the

tree,

we were convinced

drew

beneath

sitting

when we thought we
our musical friend returning. As he

shade of our tamarind

that

it

was the iden-

who had most probably been

there he
message from Mek Nimmur

with a
in

upon hearing
would pay us a visit, and

sent

was,

snow-white

on the

raiment,

with the mounted

snow-white

mule,

attendant and the violin as before.

He

dismounted upon arrival opposite the camp, and

but we
approached with his usual foppish bow
;

looked on in astonishment
it

was another minstrel

sing an ode in our praise.

indirect

appeal

to

I felt

he play anything

begged him not

wife had a headache

"my

that this was an

Maria Theresa, and

declared against music.

could

was not our Paganini,

who was determined to
it

else

once

at

to sing

disliked the fiddle-

instead

"
?

and

ex-

pressed a variety of polite excuses, but to no pur-

pose

fiddle,

he insisted upon singing; if I "disliked the

he would sing without an accompaniment,

but he could not think of insulting so great a man

as myself by returning without an ode to comme-

morate our
I

arrival."

was determined that he should not sing

he

was determined that he would, therefore I desired

him to leave my camp this he agreed to do, pro;

THE " LAY OF THE LAST MINSTREL."

CHAP, xvii.]

videcl

would allow him

sing to

my

Tokrooris, in

457

and

to cross the stream,

my

praise,

beneath a neigh-

bouring tree about fifty yards distant.

his mule with his violin, to ford the

He remounted
muddy

stream,

and he descended the steep bank, followed by his

attendant on foot, who drove the unwilling mule.
the brink of the dirty brook, that

arrival at

Upon

was about three

feet

fused to enter the

sunk

fore-feet

deep, the mule positively re-

and stood firm with

water,

deep

in

mud.

the

its

The attendant

attempted to push it on behind, at the same time

he gave it a sharp blow with his sheathed sword
"
In
this changed the scene to the
opera comicjue."
;

one instant, the mule gave so vigorous and unexpected a kick into the bowels of the attendant, that
he

upon his back,

the same moment the
fell

heels

uppermost,

minstrel, in

his

while

at

snow-white

was precipitated head foremost into the

muddy brook, and for the moment disappearing, the

garments,

could be seen floating on the surface.

second later, a wretched-looking object, covered

violin

alone

with slime and

filth,

emerged from the slough

this

was Paganini the second who, after securing his

fiddle, that had stranded on a mud-bank, scrambled
!

up the steep

my

people

amidst the roars of laughter of

of ourselves ; while the perverse

slope,

and

mule, having turned harmony into

up

its

heels

and galloped

praise of liberty, as the

The discomfited

fiddler

off,

"Lay
was

discord,

kicked

braying an ode in
of the last Minstrel."

wiped

down by my

MY INTRODUCTION

458

Tokrooris,

of

who

laughter

occasionally burst into renewed

during the

home completely out

my

[CHAP. xvu.

operation

the

fits

mule was

and the minstrel remounted, and returned

caught,

On

MEK NIMMUR.

TO

of tune.

the following morning, at sunrise, I mounted

horse, ancl,

accompanied by Taher Noor and Ba-

rode to pay my respects to Mek Nimmur.

Our route lay parallel to the stream, and, after a
I

cheet,

ride

of about

two miles through a

fine,

park-like

country, bounded by the Abyssinian Alps about fifteen miles distant, I observed a crowd of people

around

large

tamarind

near

tree,

which

were

standing a number of horses, mules, and dromedaries.

meet

This was

the

Mek Nimmur.

opened,

and, having

by Taher Noor

spot

which

upon

Upon my

was

to

approach, the crowd

was introduced

dismounted,

to the great chief.

He was

man

and exceedingly dirty in appearance.

He sat upon an angarep, surrounded by his people
lying on either side upon his seat were two brace
of about

fifty,

and within a few yards stood his horse

ready saddled. He was prepared for fight or flight,
as were also his ruffianly-looking followers, who were
of pistols,

composed of Abyssinians and

I

commenced

Jaleens.

the conversation

shown by

by

referring to the

my countryman,
Mr. Mansfield Parkyns, and I assured him that such
kind attentions were never forgotten by an Englishman, therefore I had determined to visit him, although

hospitality

his father to

the Egyptian authorities

had cautioned me not

to

THE RECEPTION.

CHAP. xvn.J

trust myself within his territory.

I

was bound towards an unknown

the sources of the

some

White

459
I

explained that

point, in search of

which might occupy

Nile,

years, but that I

wished to perfect the exploration by the examination of all the Abyssinian Nile
affluents and I concluded by asking for his assistance
;

in

He

my

journey to the Bahr Angrab and the Salaam.

replied very politely,

information

if I

Egyptian

was obliged

could

make

authorities,

cross the

local

he said that the Egyptians gave him no

peace, that he
that,

and gave me much

to fight in self-defence

overtures on his part to

he would

never

engage

but
the
to

Atbara, provided they observed a similar

condition.

promised to represent his offer to the

Governor-General on my arrival at Khartoum.
He
I

agreed to give

me

a guide to the rivers

Angrab and

Salaam, that were not far distant, and he at once

pointed out to

me

the two dark gorges, about twelve

and sixteen miles distant, in the chain of precipitous

mountains from which they flowed. He described
the country upon the other side of the mountains to

be the elevated plateau of Abyssinia, and he advised

me to visit the king before my departure from his
territory

as

me

my

this I could

not conveniently accomplish,

route lay in an opposite direction.

for a telescope, so that he

He begged

should be able to see

the approach of the Turks (Egyptians) from a great

distance, as he explained that he

had

spies

upon

all

the mountain tops, so that no stranger could enter his

country without his knowledge.

He

confessed that

THE POISONOUS STREAM.

460

my

movements while

[CHAP. xvn.

in the Base country

had been

watched by his spies, until he had felt assured that

he
I laughed at the idea
I had no sinister motive.
replied, that we were most fortunate to have escaped
;

an attack from the natives, as they were far worse

than wild beasts, and he immediately pointed out
several Base slaves

who were

present in the crowd,

who had been captured when

peared to be the

in

appearance.

they ap-

as the woolly-headed natives

bank of the Blue

of the south

peculiar

same

children

He

Nile,

and not

cautioned

me

at all

against

bathing in the stream, or drinking the water in the

neighbourhood of our camp, as it was extremely

poisonous, and would produce an irritation of the
skin.

I told

him

that I had discovered copper, and

that I attributed the poisonous quality of the water

to the presence of that mineral.

This announcement

was received with a general expression of approbation.

"

That

is

very curious," he

in this country are ignorant,

"
said,

that

we who

live

and that you, a stranger,

should at once explain the cause of the poison."

He

once agreed to the suggestion, as he said, that

during the rains, when the torrents were full, the

at

water was not unwholesome, but in the dry weather,

when the supply was scanty, and the stream feeble,
the strength of the poison was necessarily increased.
He assured me that, although the pasturage was excellent, all cattle that

became

drank in that hor or stream,

as thin as skeletons.

Mek Nimmur had

been ignorant of the existence of

UNFORTUNATE CONTRETEMPS.

CHAP, xvn.]

he informed

copper,

but'

common

in the

if I

me

that

461

gold

dust was

sand of most of the ravines, and that,

would remain in his country, I might discover

considerable quantities.

informed him that

had

already discovered the existence of both gold and lead.

He

me

requested

to

give

him every information

respecting the lead, as he should prefer

it

to gold, as

he could manufacture bullets to shoot the Turks

(as

the Egyptians are called by the neighbouring tribes).

After a long and satisfactory conversation, I made my

salaam, and retired.

the camp, I

Immediately on my arrival at
despatched Wat Gamma on horseback with

Taher Noor, in charge of a pair of beautiful doublebarrelled pistols, with the name of Tatham as the
manufacturer
message,
present

these were loaded, and I sent a polite

begging Mek Nimmur' s acceptance of the

they were accompanied by a supply of

ammunition.

Wat Gamma returned with the

had burst! Mek Nimmur had requested

In the evening
pistols;

him

they

to fire at a mark,

and one barrel of each

pistol

had given way thus, the double rifle and the pistols
"
of the same name,
Tatham," had all failed
I was afraid that
fortunately no one was injured.
;

this

would lead

much annoyed

some complication, and I was

had never used these pistols, but

to
I

had considered that they were first-rate thus I had

given them to Mek Nimmur as a valuable present,
I

and they had proved their utter worthlessness.

I
immediately mounted my horse, and with my revolver

NIMMUR BEHA7ES LIKE A GENTLEMAN.

432
in

my

hand,

bslt,
I

and

single Beattie

my beautiful

galloped off to

Mek femmur

in the same spot, watching

[CHAP. xvir.

rifle

in

my

he was seated

the harvest

of dhurra,

which were being thrashed by a

number of Abyssinians. The instant that I arrived,

enormous

went

piles of

and explained

straight to him,

my

regret

and

disappointment at the failure of the pistols, and I

begged him to take his choice between my rifle and

He behaved

he had
remarkably well
begged my messenger to leave the broken pistols with
him, and not to mention the circumstance to me, as
revolver.

he

felt

more annoyed

sure that I should feel even

than himself;

he

now

declined

my

offer,

as he said

should require the weapons during my proposed

journey up the White Nile, and he could not deprive
I

me

He was

of their use.

afraid of the revolver, as

was too complicated, but I tore from my note-book

a small piece of paper, which I requested one of his

it

stick

people to
distant.

upon a

elicited

general

that he might be allowed to

fired

and

applause,

from a

fire

the rock,

Mek Nimmur

Abyssinian,

who he

and he requested

to be a celebrated shot,

a similar mark upon

rifle,

to hit the paper exactly.

called one of his people, an

declared

ninety yards

took a steady shot with the single

and was fortunate enough

This

about

rock

the

rifle.

placed

and the Abyssinian

and struck the

stone,

in a

good
crowd
The
the
below
]ine, about six inches
paper.
which I at once
with
the
were in raptures
rifle,

insisted

rest,

upon Mek Nimmur

accepting.

then

made

PHARAOH'S LEAN

CHAP, xvn.]

my

mounted

salaam, and

my

KINE.

463

horse amidst general

expressions of approval.

On

Mek Nimmur

the following morning,

two camel-loads

of

corn

sent us

a large

gourd of honey,
and four cows that

weighing about fifty pounds

must have been a detachment of Pharaoh's lean kine,
;

with a polite message that I was to select the fattest.

These cattle were specimens of the poisonous qualities
of

water

the

but,

although

substance of the present,

my

in

disappointed

the

people were delighted

with the acquisition, and they immediately selected

a cow
but, just as they were licking their lips at
;

the prospect of fresh meat, which they

for

had not tasted

some days, the cow broke away and made

off

loss,

my men

followed in hot pursuit, and two of the

Tokrooris

across

country.

In despair at the

overtook her, and held on to her

although dragged

for

some

tail like

distance, at

through thorns and ruts, until the other

bull-dogs,
full

men

gallop

arrived

and overpowered the thin, but wiry animal. When

slaughtered, there was a great squabble between my

men and
the meat.

the Abyssinians,

who endeavoured

to steal

CHAPTEE

XVIII.

A CAMEL FALLS, AND

I

EXTRACT a few notes from

"

March

25, 1862.

this
feet)

is

about twelve

Mek Nimmur's

strong-

upon a lofty table mountain, due south of

spot, from which great elevation (about 5,000
is

the granite mountain of Cassala

plainly visible.
"
March 27.

We

started for the

Mek Nimmur,

and said good-bye

his position on our march
to

an

my journal

Mai Gubba

miles E.N.E. of our camp.

hold

DIES.

said to be

is

Bahr Salaam,
as

we

passed

he had given us a guide

awful-looking scoundrel.
"

We

had hardly marched two

miles,

when one

of

baggage-camels suddenly fell down to die ; the

Arabs immediately cut its throat with a sword, and
the

Bacheet, having detached one ear as a witness of

death, galloped

back to borrow a fresh

its

camel of

Mek Nimmur, which

delay.

he very kindly sent without

AVe were obliged to bivouac on the spot for

the night,
<

amel,

as the

Arabs required the

which was cut into thin

flesh of their

strips.

As they

ARABS CONSUME THE

CHAP, xvin.]

were

in

employed

skinning

is

route,

Ma

the

copper.
"

March

Ma

country, parallel
all

hors, flowing

ate

large

or hor,

with our

this district is rich in

Started at 5 A.M. course

28.

two

crossed

Serdi

they

it,

465

The stream,

quantities raw and quivering.

that flows through this

RAW FLESH.

S.

W.

We

from N.N.W. and joining

running stream of deep

and clear water, twelve miles from our bivouac of last
the

Serdi

evening

range of
this

also a beautiful

it

springs from a

about ten miles distant.

The whole of

this stream is never

hills

country

well watered

is

dry

by mountain streams,

the trees are no longer the thorny mimosas, but as

but sufficiently moist, it

gives birth to a different kind of vegetation, and the
trees are mostly free from thorns, although at this
the land

is

not only

fertile,

season devoid of foliage.

by extensive

cultivation,

The country is ornamented

and numerous villages.
We

halted at 5 P.M. having marched

The
by

fertile

of this country

soil

rain during the

feet

season,

thoroughly melted

and in the intense heat

becomes a mass of gaping crevices

deep, that render hunting on horseback

of the drought

many

wet

is

twenty-one miles.

it

most dangerous. Fortunately, as we halted, I observed

a herd of tetel, and three ostriches the latter made
:

but I succeeded in stalking the tdtel,

and shot two, right and left, one of which escaped, but

off immediately,

the other became the prize of

"

March

river

29.

Salaam

at

my

Tokrooris.

Started at 5.30 A.M. and reached the

8

A.M.

the total distance from our

H H

ARRI7AL AT THE SAHR SALAAM.

466

camp

in

Mek Nimmur's

S.W. The Bahr Salaam

country

is

to the Settite, but smaller

is

[CHAP.

xvm.

thirty-five miles

precisely similar in character

has scooped through the

rich lands a deep valley, like the latter river, and has
transported the fertile loam to the Atbara, to increase
the rich store of

The Salaam

Nile.
it

mud
is

it

which that

about two hundred yards wide

flows through perpendicular

of rock, in

and

many

fifty feet

crystal,

cliffs

places from

above

river delivers to the

bed

its

eighty to

the water

and of excellent quality

a hundred
as clear as

is

even now, a strong

running over the rounded
;

though contracted stream is

pebbles that form its bed, similar to that of the

We

descended a

difficult

Settite.

path, and continued along

the dry portion of the river's bed up stream.

we

that form walls

While

were searching for a spot to encamp, I saw a fine

mehedehet (A. Redunca Ellipsiprymna) by the

water side I stalked him carefully from behind a bed

bull

of high rushes, and shot

Fletcher

rifle

him

across the river with the

he went on, although crippled, but the

him by a bullet through the

We camped on the bank of the river.
neck.
"
March 30. I went out to explore the country,
left-hand barrel settled

and, steering due east, I arrived at the river Angrab or

Angarep, three miles from the Salaam from a high

rock I could trace its course from the mountain gorge
;

to this spot, the stream flowing

river or

mountain torrent

is

N,W.

This noble

about a hundred and

fifty

yards wide, although the breadth varies according to

the character of the country through which

it

passes

CHAP, xvni.]

CHARACTER OF THE TORRENTS.

467

in most places,

it

sometimes

walled within a channel of only forty

it is

.or fifty yards,

rushes through frightful precipices

and

in such places the

although
at least a hundred feet perpendicular height, bear the

marks of

floods

cliffs,

that have actually overtopped the

and have torn away the earth, and left masses

of bamboos and withered reeds clinging to the branches

rocks,

of trees, which, growing on

still

followed the circuit-

some

miles, until, after a

dipped in the swollen torrent.

ous course

of the river for

higher rocks, have

most fatiguing exploration among precipices and deep

ravines, I arrived at the junction of the Salaam river.

On

the way, I came upon a fine bull nellut (A. Strep-

siceros)

beneath a shady nabbuk by the

river's side

could only obtain an oblique shot, as his hind

quarters were towards me the bullet passed through
I

the ribs, and reached the shoulder upon the opposite

This nellut had the finest horns that I had yet

obtained ; they measured four feet in the curve, three
side.

and a half in a straight line, with a

spread of two feet seven inches from point to point.

feet one inch

upon the high grassy

these animals climb up the most difficult places

I found tracks of hippopotami

hills

during the night, when they ascend from the river to

I was not far from the tent when
seek for pasturage.
I arrived at the junction of the

An grab

with the Bahr

Salaam, but the rivers were both sunk in stupendous

was impossible to descend. The

Angrab was an extraordinary sight

that it
precipices, so

mouth
it

of the river

was not wider than about

H H

fifteen yards,

although

THE JUNCTION OF THE ANGRAB.

468

[CHAP.

xvm.

the river averaged a width of at least a hundred and

fifty yards.

The

exit of the water

lofty walls of basalt rock,

which

was between two

which overhung the stream,

in the rainy season not only forced its

way

for

about a hundred yards through this narrow cleft, but

it had left proof of inundations that had
leapt over the

summit of the

when the rush

obstruction,

of water

had

been too great for the area of the contracted passage.

Altogether, the two rivers Salaam and Angrab are
interesting examples of the destructive effect of water,

that has during the course of ages cut through, and

hollowed out in the solid rock, a succession of the most

and caverns, in which the maddened

torrents, rushing from the lofty chain of mountains,
boil along until they meet the Atbara, and assist to

horrible precipices

No

flood the Nile.

dous torrents, the

one could explore these tremen-

Settite,

Boy an, Angrab,

Salaam, and

Atbara, without at once comprehending their effect

upon the waters

of the Nile.

The magnificent chain of

mountains from which they flow, is not a simple line

of abrupt sides, but the precipitous slopes are the
walls of a vast plateau, that receives a prodigious rainfall

in June, July, August, until the middle of Septem-

ber, the entire drainage of

which

is

carried

the above-named channels to inundate

Not being

away by
Lower Egypt."

able to cross the river at the point of junc-

tion with the Salaam, I continued along the margin,

of the precipice that overhangs the latter river, until

should find a place by which

the camel, as this animal had
I

we

could descend with

made

a great circuit to

GOOD SPORT.

CHAP. xvm.[

avoid the

difficulties of

469

the Angrab.

We were at length

and were continuing our route

united,

the river, over undulations of withered grass

three

feet

interspersed

high,

above the

perceived

surface,

with

with

parallel

trees,

about

when

long horns of a
I knew that he must

the

meheddhet (R. Ellipsiprymna).

be lying down, and, as he was about a hundred and
fifty

yards distant, I stalked him carefully from tree

to tree

presently

observed three other

pairs

of

two were extremely large

but, unfortunately, an animal with smaller horns was
I could do no
lying between me and the largest.
horns at various distances

more than creep quietly from point to point, until the

smaller animal should start and alarm the larger.
This

it

did

when

the large bull,

is

was about a hundred yards from

and both mdheddhets sprang up, and, as
I

with this

usual

moments seeking

species,

for the

they

danger.

stood

My

for

a few

clothes

and

hunting cap matched so well with the bark of the tree

behind which I was kneeling, that I was unobserved,
and, taking a rest against the stem with the

little

Fletcher, I fired both barrels, the right at the

most

Both animals simply sprang for an

instant upon their hind legs, and fell.
This was
capital; but at the report of the rifle, up jumped two
distant

bull.

which appeared the facsimiles of

those I had just shot
having missed their companions, and seeing no one, they stood motionless and
other m^hedehets,

gazed in
I

had

all

left

directions.

my

people far behind

when

had com-

FOUR LUCKY HITS.

470

menced the

reloaded behind the tree

I

xvm.

had no spare rifle. I

with all haste. I had capped

stalk, therefore

the nipples, and, as

[CHAP.

looked out from

my

covering

same spot the larger,

with superb horns, was about a hundred and twenty
yards distant. Again I took a rest, and fired. He
point, I

saw them

still

in the

sprang away as though untouched for the first three

or four bounds, when he leapt convulsively in the air,

and

much

This was too

backwards.

fell

for

the

remaining animal, that was standing about a hundred

yards distant he bounded off; but the last barrel of
the

little

him through

Fletcher caught

full gallop,

and he

fell

the neck at

of a heap, stone dead.

all

These were the prettiest shots T ever recollect to

have made, in a very long experience I had bagged
four with the same rifle, in as many shots, as quickly
;

as I could load

My

and

fire.

Tokroori, Abdoolahi,

watching the shots from

up

who had been

a distance,

in hot excitement with one of

intently

came rushing

my

sharp hunt-

ing knives, and, springing forward to hamstring one

of the animals, that

was

made

cut, and,

downward

cut his

own

still

struggling, he foolishly

missing his blow, he

leg terribly across the shin, the knife

flying out of his

hand

as

it

struck against the bone;

he was rendered helpless immediately.

I tied up
the wound with my handkerchief, and, having at
length loaded the camel with as much meat as we
could cut off the animals, Abdoolahi was assisted upon
its

back

my men

carried the

two

finest heads.

It

A FALL OVER A

CHAP, xviii.]

CLIFF.

47 i

was very late, and we now sought for a path by

which we could descend to the river.

At length we

descended

that

track,

discovered

immediately

antelope-

dangerous

obliquely,

by

skirting

an

with a perpendicular
below, that fell for about

exceedingly steep side of a

precipice

hill,

My

seventy feet sheer to the river.

horse Tetel was

having taken off

led him to the bottom

as sure-footed as a goat, therefore,

my

shoes to avoid slipping, I

Taher Noor called to the camel-driver not

safely.

Although warned, this fellow

persisted in leading the heavily-laden animal down,
the slippery and dangerous path.
Hardly had he

to attempt to follow.

and

few

gone
it

paces,

down

shot

when

the camel's

slipped,

the rapid incline, and disappeared

over the edge of the precipice.

and, hastening

feet

up the

heard the camel roar,

path, I looked over the

cliff,

holding to a rope that Taher Noor fastened to a tree.

I perceived that

the animal was fortunately caught

upon a narrow ledge of rock, and was prevented from

falling to the bottom by a tough bush that grew
from a

cleft

this alone supported it in mid-air.

My

Arabs were wild and stupid. Abdoolahi had held on

like a leech, and, as we were well provided with strong
ropes,

we soon hauled him

up, but the Arabs

de-

clared their camel to be dead, as no power on earth

could save
that

we

it.

Having examined the

cliff,

could assist the camel, unless

broken some bones by the

orders to the Arabs,

fall

who obeyed

it

I felt sure

had already

accordingly, I gave
implicitly, as they

WE SAFE THE

472

CAMEL.

were so heart-broken at the

had

animal, that they

We

selves.

to the bush,

the load of

after

of

some

their

losing

them-

confidence in

all

a rope

he unfastened

difficulty,

rock below,

about ten feet square,

which formed a shelf a few inches above the

of the

The camel being

water.

the load and

its

saddle,

and

as I

bundles
camel,

had established a
should

we had

the

Arabs

being made

immensely

of

strong,

that several

rule,

to

extra

accompany the waterThe camel was now

supply.

invariably

a large

passed round the body beneath

secured by a rope
the forelegs,

these,

were

hide,

antelope's

level

relieved of both

ordered

fasten together all their ropes

twisted

xvm.

which he threw piece by piece to

flesh,

platform of

idea

down Taher Noor by

lowered

and

lost

[CHAP.

and

the

of

cloths

wrapped around the cord

the Arabs

to prevent

it

were

from cutting

the skin.

This being arranged, I took a double turn

of the rope round a tree, as thick as a man's thigh,

we

stood,

Taher Noor,

I told

that grew in a cleft of the rock where

and throwing the honey axe

him

to

shelf

by the

to

away the bushes that supported the

camel, and I would lower it gently down to the
cut

water's edge.

In a few minutes the

bushes were cut away, and the camel, roaring with

Taher Noor held on to
fright, swung in mid-air.
the rope, while I slacked off the line from the

and lowered both man and beast

The camel was unhurt,

delighted; two other men now

about seventy-feet below.

and the Arabs

w^ere

tree,

safely to the shelf,

NARROW ESCAPE.

CHAP, xviii.]

473

We

threw them down a quantity of

dry wood to make a fire, and, as they were well
descended.

off for

meat,

we

them

left

prisoners

upon the ledge

of rock with the profoundly deep river before them,

walled in by abrupt precipices upon either side.*

It

was nearly dark, and, having

to

the

camp among dangerous

my men

ahead of

home

ravines,

to discover a ford,

as the

we very

rode

and

fast

to reach

increase the

nearly ended our days together,

bank of a precipice gave way while we were

skirting the edge.

sprang forward
fall

felt

and saved

it

sinking, but the horse

himself, as I heard

the

beneath.

That night we received a very audacious visit.

was asleep in my tent, when I was suddenly

awakened by a

slight pull at

the signal

my
my

always given by
was wrong on such occasions,
;

my way

Tetel was as sure-footed and as nimble as

a cat, but

mass

find

before complete darkness should

danger.

to

sleeve,

wife

which was

if

anything
never replied until

my little Fletcher, which always

me beneath my mat. She now whispered

had gently grasped

slept with

that a hyaena had been within the tent, but, that

had just bolted

that they detect

As a

out,

the

as these animals are so

slightest

movement

or

it

wary
noise.

never shot at hyaenas, but, as I feared

rule,
it might eat our saddles, I laid in bed with the rifle
to my shoulder, pointed towards the tent door
*

On

the following morning, the camel was safely floated across

the river, supported by the inflated skins of the rnehedehets.

THE HYAENA ENTERS THE

474

TENT.

[CHAP. xvni.

In
through which the moon was shining brightly.
a few minutes, a grey-looking object stood like an
apparition

at the entrance, peering into the tent to

see

were right before

if

all

entered.

it

touched

the trigger, and the hysena fell dead, with the bullet
This was a regular veteran, as
through its head.
his

body was covered with old

scars

from continual

with other hyaenas. This was the first time

that one of these animals had taken such a liberty ;
conflicts

they were generally contented with eating the bones

that were left from our dinner outside the tent door,

which they cleared away regularly every night.

We remained in this beautiful country from

March 29th

until April 14th, during

which time

an hour in camp, from sunrise

seldom remained
to sunset; I was always in the saddle or on foot.
for

Two

of

Ali and Hassan,

best Tokrooris, Hadji

my

usually acccompanied

me on

horseback, while Taher

Noor and a couple of Arabs rode upon camels with

a good supply of water. In this manner I traversed
the entire country, into the base of the great
tain

chain,

and thence down

the

course

mounof

the

Atbara junction. This district was

entirely composed of the most fertile soil, through
which the great rivers Angrab and Salaam had cut

river towards the

their

in

way

Settite.

The

a similar manner to the Atbara and

Salaam,

after

the

junction

the

of

Angrab, was equal in appearance to the Atbara, but

the inclination of this great mountain torrent
rapid,

that

it

quickly

becomes

exhausted

at

is

so

the

HIPPOTRAGUS EAKERII.

CHAP, xvm.]

4/5

essation of rain in the lofty mountains that

form

Both the Angrab and the Salaam are

two main channels

source.

its

short rivers, but, as they are the

for the

reception of the

mountain

area,

drainage of a vast

entire

they bring down most violent

floods,

main

artery.

that materially affect the volume of the

The whole of

this

beyond any that

most glorious sport.

was

lopes,

several

tremely

new

country

abounded

had hitherto

Among

On

had

occasions on the Settite,

rare.

and

seen,

the varieties

that

species

in

game
I

had

of ante-

seen

where

upon
was ex-

it

the high open plains above the

was very numerous, but so wild and wary that it was impossible
to approach nearer than from 350 to 500 yards.

valley of the Salaam, this antelope

This

magnificent

animal,

the

of

largest

antelopes of Abyssinia and Central Africa,

all

the

known

is

to the Arabs as the Maarif

It is

(Hippotragus Bakerii).
a variety of the sable antelope of South Africa

The colour is mouse-grey,

(Hippotragus Niger).
with a black stripe across the shoulders, and black
and white

lines

across

the nose

and

cheeks.

The

height at the shoulder would exceed fourteen hands,

and the neck

black mane.

and

is

ornamented with a thick and

The shoulders

are

peculiarly massive,

are extremely high at the withers

the horns

are very powerful, and, like those of the roan

sable antelope, they are annulated,

and the

and bend gracefully

Both the male and female are provided

backwards.

with horns

stiff

those of the former are exceedingly thick,

THE BASE OF THE ABYSSINIAN

476

and the points frequently extend

ALPS.

[CHAP.

xvm.

so far as to reach

the shoulders.

The Maarif invariably inhabits open plains, upon

which it can see an enemy at a great distance, thus
it

most

the

is

difficult

of

all

animals

to

stalk.

Nothing can be more beautiful than a herd of these

superb animals, but the only successful method of
hunting would be to course them with greyhounds
my dogs were dead, thus I depended entirely upon

the

was

rifle.

the aggageers,

also deprived

whom

had

of the assistance of

the Eoyan.

left at

Ehinoceros and giraffes were very numerous throughout this country but the ground was most unfavour;

The

able for riding.

surface resembled a beautiful

composed of a succession of undulations, interspersed with thornless trees, and watered by streamlets

park,

at intervals of five or eight miles, while the

magnificent

south

Alps of Abyssinia bounded the view to the

but there was no enjoyment in this country

The rainy season converted this rich

and the dry season baked it

on horseback.

loam

into a pudding,

into a pie-crust.

and hollow
not

and

there

The

entire surface

was

loose, flaky,

was not a yard of ground that was

split into deep crevices, that were regular pitfalls

unsound was the general character of the

so

country, that a horse sank above his fetlocks at every

I usually rode
footstep.
during the day when ex-

ploring

but whenever

shot,

it

was necessary

to

was impossible to follow an animal

on horseback. I had on several occa-

dismount, as
successfully

it

DELIGHTFUL COUNTRY.

CHAP, xvni.]

sions attempted to ride

ground

aggageers,

down

had not the

who

477

a giraffe, but

chance

upon such

thus the

invariably hunt the giraffe

by riding

slightest

at full speed until they can hamstring

sword, never visit this country.

it

with the

This accounted for

the presence of so large a number of animals, as they

were never disturbed by these untiring hunters.

Our camp was pitched

at the junction of a torrent,

which, flowing from the higher ground, joined the

river

Salaam in a succession of

waterfalls.

At

this

season, a gentle stream, as clear as glass, rippled over

a rocky bed about twenty yards wide, and the holes

in the flat surface above the fall formed natural basins
of the purest water.

I frequently strolled for

some

miles along the bed of the stream, that afforded excellent pasturage for the horses in a sweet, green grass,

that was not only an attraction to antelopes and buffaloes (Bos Caffer),

but formed a covert for incredible

numbers of the beautiful francolin

which

partridge,

might have been shot in hundreds as they rose from

the cool herbage that afforded both food and concealment.

was returning

bed of the stream,

which

when

had bagged

late

after

one evening along the

a day's shooting,

several antelopes

during

and wild

boar,

observed at a distance a dark mass in the

bright yellow grass, which I quickly distinguished as

a herd of elephants. It was just dusk, and having

endeavoured to meet them as they came to drink, but
determined to track them up on
I started at daybreak, with
the following morning.

without success,

FOLLOW A HERD OF ELEPHANTS.

4/8

horses and gun-bearers.

my

all

miles

we

[CHAP.

xvm.

For about sixteen

tracked up the 'herd to within a short dis-

tance of the base of the mountain range.

During the
march, we had seen large quantities of giraffes, and
The country, that
all the varieties of large antelopes.

had consisted of a vast

undulations

plain,

were devoid of

the bottom of one of these undulations,

number

we

to rapid

the trees were generally small, and, at

this season of intense dryness,

At

now changed

of skeleton

discovered

withered grass,

that

trees,

leaves.

among a
no shade,

afforded

standing in the high

that entirely concealed all but the

the

elephants,

upper portion of their heads

themselves by tearing

upon the succulent

and feeding
ordered Taher Noor and

up the

roots.

they were amusing

trees,

Bacheet each to take a horse and

with

rifle,

and

to lead

hunter Aggahr, about a

hundred yards behind me, while I advanced towards
the elephants on foot. At the sound of the first shot
them,

together

my

they were to mount, and to bring

my

horse and spare

guns as rapidly as possible. Unfortunately, the herd

was alarmed by a large bull giraffe that was asleep in
the grass, which started up within thirty yards of us,

and dashed

off in terror

through the mass of elephants.

Their attention was roused, and they

moved

off to

my

which change of position immediately gave them

our wind. There was no time to lose, as the herd was

left,

in retreat

and, as they were passing across

at about two hundred paces distance, I ran

my path,
at my best

speed, stumbling through the broken pie-crust, and

AGGAHR TAKES THE

CHAP, xviii.]

LEAD.

479

sinking in the yawning crevices, the sides of which

were perfectly

rotten, until I arrived within shot of

about twenty-five elephants.

was

just on the point

of firing at the temple of a large animal that

when

within about ten yards,

charged straight at me.

of a Eeilly No. 10, I
it

by a forehead

nearly upon me.

As

suddenly turned, and

it

"With the right-hand barrel

was fortunate enough

when

shot,

was

so

close

that

to turn
it

was

swerved, I fired the remaining

barrel exactly through the centre of the shoulder ; this
it

dropped and killed the elephant as though

it

had been

shot through the brain.

The

difficulties of

the ground were such, that the

horses were not led as quickly as I

had expected

thus I had to reload, which I had just completed

when Aggahr was brought by Taher Noor.

the

ing into

saddle,

at

Springonce gave chase. The

gallant old horse flew along through the high grass,

and rotten ground. The

herd was about three hundred yards ahead, but the
regardless

of the crevices

long steady stride of Aggahr quickly shortened the

distance, and in a few minutes I was riding alongside the

elephants, that were shambling along at a

great pace.

determined to head them, and drive

them back towards

pected that

my

people, in

we might be

which case

able to surround them.

exI

touched Aggahr with the spur, and he shot ahead

of the leading elephants, when I turned sharp to
the right

exactly

before

their

shout to check their advance

and gave a
the same instant.

path,
in

FALL AT THE FEET OF THE ELEPHANTS.

480

xvm.

[CHAP.

Aggahr turned a complete sommersault within a few

yards of their

having put his fore-leg into a

rolled over almost beneath the

feet,

deep crevice, and I

The
elephants with the heavy rifle in my hand.
horse recovered quicker than I, and, galloping off,
he vanished

in

the

high grass, leaving

confused from the

fall

instead of crushing

me

me

rather

head.

The herd,

as they ought to

have done,

upon

my

took fright, and bolted off at their best pace. My

eyes were dancing with the fall the mounted gunbearers were nowhere, as Gazelle would not face the
;

elephants,

and Tetel was

had

saddle

vanished

far behind.

with

Aggahr,

My
and,

English
as the

Arab saddles were simple rings for

stirrups
the accommodation of the big toe, they were unserof

viceable.

the

Had

the aggageers been with me, I should

have had great sport with this herd but, with the
exception of Taher Noor, the men were bad horse;

men, and even he was afraid of the ground, which

was

frightfully dangerous.

We

discovered that the bullet had passed through

the great artery of the heart, which had caused the

instantaneous death of the elephant I had shot.

We
and

were now at

I feared that

most

Aggahr would be

lost,

from camp,

and would

devoured by a lion during the night

should lose not only my good old hunter,

likely be

thus I

but

least seventeen miles

my

English saddle.

passed several hours in

searching for

him

prevent him

from straying to the south, we

in all directions, and, in order to

fired

HEAD OF MEHEDEHET

(REDUNCA ELLIPS[PRYMNA).
See page 469.

BENIGHTED ON OUR RETURN TO CAMP.

CHAP, xvin.]

the grass in
fire

all

directions

between the camp

the north

as

slowly,

we

481

thus had a line

and ourselves

wind had

burnt

this

the

carried

of

blaze

We

rode along the

bottom of a watercourse, and reached the Salaam

rapidly in the other direction.

thus avoiding the

river,

we neared

the

some hours before

but,

camp, night had

We

set in.

had

we had got to windward, and

and tediously we toiled along the crumbling

beaten the
slowly
soil,

fire

fire,

as

stumbling among the crevices, that were nearly

invisible in the moonlight.

Thus we crept onwards;

had found riding imwere

practicable, therefore the horses

as

difficulty,

they constantly

knees in the numerous

led,

with

up to their
was difficult to

slipped

fissures.

It

we were

recognise our position in the moonlight, and

doubtful

w hether we had not missed our

r

the camp..
o'clock,

My

me

watch told

much

to

was past nine

hours in hard work

that

and we had been sixteen

route

it

We halted to confer
without the slightest rest.
about the direction of the camp, when suddenly I
heard the report of a gun to our right; we immediately turned,

sound

and hastened towards the welcome

I

presently

heard a distant shout.

As we

approached, this was repeated, and as I hurried forward, I recognised my own name shouted in an
agonised voice.
after giving

ran on alone at

a loud shrill whistle

my

upon

best speed,

my

fingers.

This was quickly replied to, and I repeated the wellknown signal, until in about ten minutes I met my
I

"ALES WELL THAT ENDS

482

WELL."

who had been wandering about

wife,

half distracted for hours, searching for

direction, as

camp with

[CHAP.

the

me

xvm.

country
in every

horse Aggahr had returned to the

my

the bridle broken, and the

empty saddle
she had naturally

by the boughs of trees

concluded that some accident had happened. She
had immediately armed herself with the little Fletcher
scratched

that had

been

elephants

with

this,

and

swords

with

camp, being too small for

and several of the Arabs armed

in

left

had been

she

lances,

hunting

throughout this wild country during the night in a

state of terrible anxiety.

had

was fortunate that she

fired the shot to direct our attention,

we might have
"

seen.

All's

passed

well that

three miles from

and we

tion,

each

other

ends well

:"

otherwise

without being
we were about

camp, but the distance appeared

short to everybody, as

fire

It

we now knew

the true direc-

at length perceived the glare of a large

that our people had lighted as a beacon.

Aggahr, must have found his way

without difficulty, as he had arrived a little before

The

sunset.

horse,

This curious instinct, that enables a horse to

find the direction to

and

pathless country,

the Arabs,

who had

its last

halting-place in a wild

was thoroughly appreciated by

comforted

me

with the assurance,

that no Abyssinian horse would lose his

spot where he had last passed the night,

from

his rider.

way
if

to the

separated

CHAPTER

XIX.

SEND A PARTY TO RECONNOITRE.

I

HAD thoroughly explored

the Salaam and Angrab

I

it

the beautiful country of

was the llth of

April,

and

intended to push on to Gallabat, the frontier market

town of Abyssinia.

We

that had been supplied

had no guide,

as the fellow

by Mek Nimmur had absconded

the day after our arrival at the Salaam, but during the

march he had pointed out a blue outline of a distant

mountain in the south, that was called Nahoot
This was an un-

Guddabi, or the saddle of Guddabi.

mistakeable landmark, as

Arab saddle

it

exactly resembled

at the foot of this

Tokroori village of Guddabi, the

an

mountain was the

first

habitation, at a

distance of about fifty miles from the

Bahr Salaam.

Although, from the experience I had had in this neighbourhood, I had little doubt of the supply of water on
the road, I sent three of

my

Tokroori s upon as

camels with water-skins, to reconnoitre before

move

On

should

the camp.
the second day they returned, and reported the

existence of several small streams,

el

many

need excellent water.

all

of which pro-

AHEAD OF THE CAMELS.

484

We

[CHAP. xix.

started on the following afternoon, and, with

Hassan as our guide, and Taher Noor upon a camel,

my wife and I cantered ahead of the main body, over
a high ridge of stony, and accordingly firm ground.
Upon arrival at the summit, we had a lovely view of

we commenced

the surrounding country, and

a gentle

descent into a vast plain sparsely covered with small

In the extensive prospect before

trees.

the dark

us,

green veins of foliage in the otherwise yellow surface

of withered grass marked out distinctly the course of

"We

small rivulets.

hurried

blackened ashes, where the

it,

on,

fire

sometimes

had swept

all

over
before

at other times through withered grass, that

had

been saved from destruction through the intervention

At 7.30 P.M. we arrived at an excelof some ravine.
lent halting place,

of water, shaded

beautiful but small stream

by a

by a

dome palms

fringe of

this

was

by dead reckoning seventeen miles from our ]ast camp.

It had been pleasant travelling, as the moon was full ;

we had

ridden

fast,

therefore

the camels for some hours

we

carpet on the ground, and lay

stocks

of the

was

it

useless to expect

accordingly spread the

down

rifles for pillows,

as

to sleep, with the

we had

frequently

done on former occasions.

On

the following morning I sent a couple of

on camels

to

reconnoitre

men

the

country in advance,
towards Guddabi, and to return with the report of the
This country abounded with large
game, especially with the beautiful antelope already

supply of water.

described, the maarif

they were as usual extremely

THE MAARIF.

CHAP, xix.]

but

wild,

485

succeeded in breaking the hip of a fine

and, separating him from the

ran the wounded antelope until I was thoroughly
exhausted in the intense heat of the sun, but I lost it
bull at a long range

herd, I

in the thick

we heard
at

bush not far from our camp.

daybreak

upon searching
found the remains of a maarif, which I

imagine must have been

I

mounted

two of

That night

a lion roaring close to us, and

my

my wounded

my horse Tetel,

bull.

and, with Taher

Noor and

and Hassan,

Tokrooris, Hadji Ali

rode

towards a pyramidical hill about three miles distant,

which I intended to ascend in order to obtain a panoramic view of the country.
This hill was about three

hundred

feet high, and, as the fire

had swept away a

portion of the grass for several miles around, I should

obtain a clear view of

be in the neighbourhood.

all

living animals that

Upon

the hill I dismounted, and led

my

inclination of broken basalt that

From

summit.

might

arrival at the base of

horse

had

up the

fallen

steep

from the

the top of the peak I had a superb

panorama of the country, the mountain Nahoot GubI had

dabi bearing 8.W. about thirty miles distant.
a complete l)ird's-eye view of great extent, and
diately

distinguished,

buffaloes,

were

leafless,

would be
I

tetel,

to camp.

boars.

at once discovered

it

At

positions,

imme-

giraffes,

this season the trees

thus any animal upon the low ground

extract from

hunt, as

and

in various

my

from this elevated point.

journal the account of this day's

was written immediately upon

my

return

VIEW FROM THE PEAK.

486
"

[CHAP. xix.

had been observing the country

for

some time

high station, when I suddenly perceived two

rhinoceros emerge from a ravine
they walked slowly

from

my

through a patch of high grass, and skirted the base of

the hill upon which we were standing presently they
:

winded something, and they trotted back and stood

concealed in the patch of grass.

good view of them from

on the same level

them

I sent

if I

off,

directing

hill,

as I

was

tie

ride

them

accordingly,

to lead Tetel

from

to a tree at the foot of

might observe
This he did, and we

afraid the rhinoceros

the horse upon the sky

saw him

him

him

the peak, and to secure

the

knew

in their covert,

could not shoot them on foot

man

had a

therefore determined to send

other horses, and to

my

to the tent for

down,

present position, I

my

that I should not be able to see

if

Although

the horse

line.

by the

bridle to the branch of

a tree below us, while he ran quickly towards the

camp. In the mean time I watched the rhinoceros

both animals laid down in the yellow grass, resembling
;

masses of stone.
before

position,

They had not been long in this

we noticed two pigs wandering

through the grass directly to windward, towards the

in an instant these
animals
sleeping rhinoceros
;

winded the
all

directions,

concealed

and starting up, they looked in

but could not see them, as they were

intruders,

by the high

turbed,

the

walked

slowly

listening;

grass.

rhinoceros
forward,

Having been thus

moved

dis-

their

quarters,

and

occasionally

halting,

and

one was about a hundred yards in ad-

CHAP, xix.]

THE RHINOCEROS ATTACKS THE HORSE.

487

vance of the other.

They were taking a direction

the hill that would lead them directly

at the base of

upon the spot where Tetel was

observed this to Taher Noor, as

tied to the tree.

I feared

they would

'

Oh, no/ he replied, they will lie

down and sleep beneath the first tree, as they are
However,
seeking for shade the sun is like fire/
the horse.

kill

continued their advance, and, upon reaching

some rising ground, the leading rhinoceros halted, and
still

they

I felt sure that

was now about

he had a clear view of the horse, that

hundred yards distant, tied to the

A ridge descended from the hill, parallel with
tree.
the course the animals were taking
upon this, I ran
five

as quickly as the stony slope permitted, keeping

upon the leading rhinoceros,

eye fixed

head
I

raised,

now

felt

was advancing

who with

my
his

directly towards the horse.

convinced that he intended to attack

it,

Tetel did not observe the rhinoceros, but was quietly

I ran as fast as I was
standing beneath the tree.
able, and reached the bottom of the hill just as the

wilful brute

now

was within

fifty

yards of the horse, which

time saw the approaching danger ;

the rhinoceros had been advancing steadily at a walk,
for the

but he

first

now lowered

his

head, and charged at the

horse at full speed.

"

was about two hundred yards distant, and for

the moment I was afraid of shooting the horse, but
I

one of the Eeilly No. 10 rifles ; the bullet,

missing the rhinoceros, dashed the sand and stones
I fired

into his face, as

it

struck the ground exactly before

Tin:

48S

BULLET SAFES HIM.

when he appeared

Ins nose,

The horse

fortunate Tetel.

and, breaking the bridle,

and most

at the shot,

and

to be just into the un-

in the

same instant

reared,

dashed away in the direc-

it

tion of the camp, while

[CHAP. xix.

the

astonished

rhinoceros,

likely half blinded

by the sand

threw up his head, turned

round, and trotted back upon the track by which
of rock,

splinters

He

he had arrived.

passed

me

had run forward

yards' distance, as I

which he trotted with

head

his

the cause of his discomfiture.

against his hide, as I fired
his shoulder

he

he cocked his

towards

charged

Crack

my

went a

by

seeking for
bullet

remaining barrel at
and for a few yards

tail,

shot

to a bush,

raised,

but

and ran round

his course,

changed

the

hundred

at about a

he

suddenly

several times in

he then halted, and reeling to and fro,

he retreated very slowly, and laid down about a
a small circle

hundred yards off. Well done, Keilly I knew that

he had his quietus, but I was determined to bag his
companion, who in alarm had now joined him, and
!

stood looking in

but

all

we were
the

Presently,

quarters for the source of danger

concealed

well

wounded

behind

rhinoceros

the

stood

bush.

up,

and

walking very slowly, followed by his comrade, he

crossed a portion of rising ground at the base of the
hill,

off

and both animals disappeared.

Hassan,

of Tetel,

who

while

view

if

not,

once started

could run like an antelope, in search

despatched another

summit of the peak

in

I at

to

man

to

see if the rhinoceros

the

were

knew they must be among the

ARRIVAL OF THE HORSES.

CHAP, xix.j

small

and bushes*

trees

489

at the foot of

the

hill.

thus waited for a long time, until at length the two

Aggahr and

greys,

from the camp.

Gazelle, arrived with

my messenger
Arab

tightened the girths of the

saddle upon Aggahr, and I had just mounted, cursing

all

Arab

stirrups, that are

when my

big toe,

only

made

eyes were gladdened

me upon

naked

for the

by the

sight

T6tel,

but from

the exact direction the rhinoceros had taken.

'Quick!

of Hassan cantering towards

'

quick

he

'

come along
and the other

cried,

lying dead close by,

a tree not far

"
I

little

One
is

rhinoceros

is

standing beneath

off.'
*

immediately jumped on Tetel, and, taking the

Fletcher rifle, as lighter and handier than the

heavy No.

10, I ordered

mount the other

horses,

Taher Noor and Hassan to

and

to follow

me with

spare

found the rhinoceros lying dead about two

hundred yards from the spot where he had received
rifles.

the shot, and

immediately perceived the companion,

that was standing beneath a small tree.
The ground
was firm and stony, all the grass had been burnt off,
I

except in a few small patches

the trees were not so

thick together as to form a regular jungle.

"The

rhinoceros saw us directly, and he valiantly

stood and faced

of* him.

Te'tel

shooting horse
face the
this

position,

round a

as I rode

up within

worth his weight

is
:

devil.

me

he stands
I

like

was unable

therefore

half-circle, as I

to

fifty

gold

yards
as

and would

a rock,

take

ordered the

knew

in

shot

men

the rhinoceros

in

to ride

would

THE RHINOCEROS HUNT.

490

[CHAP. xix.

turn towards the white horses, and thus expose his

this he did immediately, and firing well,
flank
;

exactly at the shoulder, I

dropped him as though

Taher Noor shouted,

stone dead.

'

Samme

durrupto P
the rhinoceros lay kicking upon the
(well shot)
Not a bit
ground, and I thought he was bagged.
the No. 24 bullet had not force to break
of it
;

the massive shoulder-bone, but had merely paralysed

it for the moment
up he jumped, and started off
;

in

full

gallop.

started, then

Now

obliquely

for
;

a hunt

up the

he

hill

he chose a regular rhino-

and scudded away, Tetel answering to

and
the spur
closing with him
through the trees
down
the
hill
now
over the loose rocks, where he
ceros path,'

gained considerably upon the horse.

'Easy down
the hill, gently over the stones, Tetel/ and I took

a pull at the reins until

reached the level ground

I saw the
beneath, which was firm and first-rate.

rhinoceros pelting

a hundred and twenty

away about

yards ahead, and spurring hard, I shot up to him at

full speed until within twenty yards, when round he

came with astonishing quickness, and charged straight

I was prepared for this, as was my
at the horse.
horse also

we avoided him by

a quick turn, and

again renewed the chase, and regained our position

within a few yards of the game.
Thus the hunt

continued for about a mile and a

half,

the rhinoceros

occasionally charging, but always cleverly avoided

the

horse.

hunted

like

Tetel

seemed to

a greyhound.

the

by
and

fun,
enjoy
Nevertheless I had not

RIDDEN TO BAY.

CHAP, xix.]

491

been able to pass the rhinoceros, who had thundered

along at a tremendous pace whenever I had athowever, the pace began to tell
upon his wounded shoulder he evidently went lame,
and, as 1 observed at some distance before us the

tempted to

close

commencement
I

felt sure

that

In this

still.'

of the dark-coloured

ground,

would shortly be a case of 'stand

1 was correct, and, upon
reaching

it

the deep and crumbling

made

rotten

soil,

he turned sharp round,

a clumsy charge that I easily avoided, and he

stood

panting

at

bay.

Taher

Noor was

this was a very timid horse and

Gazelle

useless

as a

hunter, but, as

it

riding

was

utterly

reared and plunged

upon seeing the

rhinoceros, that animal immediately

turned towards

it

with the intention of charging.

Riding Tetel close to his flank, I fired both barrels
of the

little

Fletcher into the shoulder

the shots, and, stretching

he

fell

to

out his legs convulsively,

he died immediately."
This was a capital termination to the hunt

as I

had expected the death of my good horse Tetel, when

the first rhinoceros had so nearly horned him.
The
sun was

like a furnace, therefore I rode straight to

camp, and sent

As

flesh.

found a

around

it,

men and

camels for the hides and

passed the body of the

first

rhinoceros,

regiment of vultures already collected

while fresh arrivals took place every

minute, as they gathered from

all

quarters

they had

already torn out the eyes, and dragged a portion of

flesh

from the bullet- wound in the shoulder

but the

ARRIVAL OF BIRDS OF PREY.

492

[CHAP. xix.

tough hide of the rhinoceros was proof against their

A number of Marabou storks had
greedy beaks.
and were standing proudly among the

also arrived,

crowd of

vultures, preparing to perform the duty of

when

sextons,

the

become

should

skin

sufficiently

had
Throughout
traversed, these birds were in enormous numbers.
A question has been frequently discussed whether
decomposed.

the vulture

the countries that I

all

directed to his prey

is

by the sense of

have paid much

attention to their habits, and, although there can be
smell, or

by keenness

no question that
convinced that
their

their
all

of vision

power of scent
of prey

birds

is

are

great, I feel

attracted

to

food principally by their acutenesss of sight.

were blind,

If a vulture

it

would starve

but were

up with some foreign substance

power of smell, it would not materially

the nostrils plugged

to destroy its

with

interfere

its

usual

mode

of hunting.

Scent

always stronger near the surface of the ground

is

thus

hyaenas, lions, and other beasts of prey will scent a

carcase from a great

leeward

distance, provided they are to

but the same animals would be unaware of

the presence of the body

if

they were but a short

distance to windward.
birds of

prey trusted to their nostrils, they

would keep as near the ground as possible, like the
If

which

carrion crow,

sudden

animal,

believe

is

the exception that

an astonishing sight to witness

arrival of vultures at the death of an

proves the rule.

the

when

It is

a few

moments

before not a bird has

HABITS OF CULTURES.

CHAP, xix.]

493

been in sight in the cloudless sky. I have frequently

lain down beneath a bush after having shot an animal,
to watch the arrival of the various species of birds
in regular succession

following order

No.

individual

and

black

the

1,

they invariably appear in the

and white crow

most industrious

is

this

generally to be seen either perched

is

or upon trees

I believe

knowing

in seeking for his food,

upon rocks

he trusts much to his sense of

never far from the ground, at the same

time he keeps a vigilant look out with a very sharp
smell, as he

is

pair of eyes.

No. 2

known

is

the

for its

common

buzzard

extreme daring,

is

this bird, so

well

omnipresent,

and

trusts generally to sight, as it will stoop at a piece of

red cloth in mistake for flesh

thus proving that

it

depends more upon vision than smell.

No

is

the red-faced small vulture.

No. 4

is

No.

the

5,

the large bare-throated vulture.

Marabou

stork,

sometimes accompanied

by the adjutant.

When

employed

in

watching the habits of these

make

the

experiment of
concealing a dead animal beneath a dense bush. This
I have frequently done ; in which case the vultures
birds,

it

is

never find
if so,

interesting

it

to

unless they have witnessed

they will already

its

death

have pounced in their descent

while you have been engaged in concealing the body

they will then upon near approach discover it by the
:

smell.

But,

if

an animal

is

killed

in 'thick grass,

THE MARABOU STORK.

494

[CHAP, xix

eight or ten feet high, the vultures will seldom dis-

cover

it.

have frequently knoVn the bodies of

large animals, such as elephants

and

buffaloes, to

lie

days beneath the shade of the dense nabbuk

bushes, unattended by a single vulture
whereas, if
for

visible,

they would have been

visited

by

these birds

in thousands.

Vultures and the Marabou stork

altitudes.

own

I believe that

particular

fly at

enormous

every species keeps to

elevation,

its

and that the atmosphere

contains regular strata of birds of prey, who, invisible

to the

human

eye at their enormous height, are con-

wide-spread wings, and

watching with telescopic sight the

upon

stantly resting

soaring in circles,

At

world beneath.

their

that great elevation they are in

an exceedingly cool temperature, therefore they require no water but some birds that make long flights
;

over arid deserts, such as the Marabou stork, and the

bustard, are provided with water-sacks

the former in

an external bag a little below the throat, the latter

in an internal sack, both of which carry a large
supply. As the birds of prey that I have enumerated,
invariably appear at a carcase in their regular succesI

sion,

ferent

can only suggest that they travel from

distances

or

altitudes.

Thus,

the

stork would be farthest from the earth;

dif-

Marabou
the large

bare-necked vulture would be the next below him,

followed by the red-faced vulture, the buzzard, and
From
the crow that is generally about the surface.
their

immense

elevation, the birds of prey possess

an

CHAP, xix.] SIGHT,

NOT

SCENT, DIRECTS

extraordinary field of vision

invisible

from the

THE VULTURE.

495

and, although they are

earth, there

can be no doubt that

they are perpetually hunting in circles within sight of

each other.
Thus, should one bird discover some

upon the surface of the earth below, his

sudden pounce would be at once observed and imitated

object

by every vulture

in

Should

succession.

one vul-

ture nearest the earth perceive a body, or even should

he notice the buzzards collecting at a given point, he

would at once become aware of a prey; his rush
towards the spot would act like a telegraphic signal
to others, that would be rapidly communicated to
every vulture at successive airy stations.
If an animal be skinned, the red surface will attract
the vultures in an instant

and not

this proves that their sight,

been attracted by an object

have frequently watched them

their scent, has

that suggests blood.

when

have shot an animal, and

commenced

my

people have

At

the process of skinning.

bird has been in sight, as I have lain on

first,

my

not a

back and

gazed into the spotless blue sky but hardly has the
skin been half withdrawn, than specks have appeared
;

in the heavens, rapidly increasing.

been
bushes

heard
;

several

times

"

has.

Caw, caw,"

from the neighbouring

the buzzards have swept

down

my

close to

people, and have snatched a morsel of clotted blood

from the ground.

winged

The

specks have increased

creatures, at the great height resembling

to

flies,

when presently a rushing sound behind me, like a

whirlwind, has been followed by the pounce of a red-

ABOU

496

SEEN-^" LAST

BUT NOT

LEAST."

[CHAP. xix.

faced vulture, that has fallen from the heavens in

haste with closed wings to the bloody feast, followed

quickly by

come

The sky has be-

of his brethren.

many

with black specks in the far-distant blue,

with wings hurrying from all quarters. At length a
coronet of steady, soaring vultures, forms a wide circle
alive

far above, as they hesitate to descend, but continue to

revolve around the object of attraction.

bare-necked vulture suddenly appears.

The great
The animal

has been skinned, and the required flesh secured by

the men ; we withdraw a hundred paces from the
A general rush and descent takes place hunscene.
;

dreds of hungry

beaks are tearing at the offal.

great bare-necked vulture claims respect

crowd
sky,

but another form has appeared

and rapidly descends.

A pair

among

The
the

in the blue

of long, ungainly

hanging down beneath the enormous wings, now

touch the ground, and Abou Seen (father of the teeth
legs,

or beak, the Arab

and he

name

for the

Marabou) has arrived,

stalks proudly towards the crowds, pecking his

way with

his long bill through the struggling vul-

tures,

and swallowing the

Abou

Seen, last but not least, had arrived from the

lion's

share of the repast.

highest region, while others had the advantage of the

very numerous through the Nile

tributaries of Abyssinia, and may generally be seen

start.

This bird

is

perched upon the rocks of the water-side, watching

for small fish, or any reptile that may chance to

come within

his

reach.

The well-known

are situated in a plume beneath the

tail.

feathers

ROUTE TO NAHOOT GUDDABL

CHAP, xix.]

On

we

14th April

left

our

camp

497

in the afternoon,

and, after marching nine miles, during which

we passed

two small streams, flowing,

from this

point,

west to the Atbara,

like all others,

we

slept

by a

large pool in a

A waterfall

third stream of considerable size.

flowed

over a row of perpendicular basalt columns that sur-

rounded a deep basin, resembling

On

cially arranged.

before sunrise,
prairies, until

ebony

the following morning

we

artifi-

started

and rode over the usual pathless burnt

we reached the base of Nahoot Guddabi,

the mountain for which

miles

piles of

farther,

we

we had been

arrived at

village, in the heart of the

steering.

Eight

a Tokroori

Metemma,

mountains, twenty-seven

miles from our last resting-place, and fifty-one miles

from our camp on the Salaam

river.

From

this point

to the river Salaam,

the entire country slopes per-

ceptibly to the west

the drainage being carried to

by numerous streams. The country that

we had now entered, was inhabited exclusively by

the Atbara

Tokrooris, although belonging to Abyssinia.

They
meet us upon our arrival at the village,
and immediately fraternised with those of our people
that belonged to their tribe, from whom they quickly

came out

to

They brought us a he-goat,

The latter we had
together with milk and honey.
revelled in for some months past, as the countries
learnt all about us.

in

we

abounded with a supply

but the milk was a
the rocks and hollow trees

through which

travelled,

luxury, as our goats

was a regular old

were nearly dry.

The he-goat

patriarch of the flock, and, for those

K K

ARRIFE AT THE ATBARA.

498

who

are fond of savoury food,

temptation, but as
its

it

might have been a

it

exhaled a perfume that rendered

presence unbearable,

we were

obliged to

over as a present to our Tokrooris

up

their noses at the offer.

rounded

us,

[CHAP. xix.

A.

hand

even they turned

crowd of natives

and the account of our

it

sur-

was related

travels

with the usual excitement, amidst the ejaculations of

the hearers, when they heard that we had been in the
country of the Base, and had trusted ourselves in the

power of Mek

On

Mmmur.

the following morning

we were

sun-

off before

and marched rapidly over a good path through

low forest, at the foot of a range of hills and after a

rise,

twenty miles, during which we had passed

several small villages, and many brooks that flowed

journey of

from the mountains, we arrived at our old

Atbara

river, at

mountains.
noble

At

the sharp angle as

this place it

whose

Atbara,

was

course

it

friend, the

issues

from the

The

in its infancy.

we

had tracked

for

hundreds of weary miles, and whose tributaries we

had

so

carefully

mountain

examined,

was

second-class

torrent, about equal to the

Eoyan, and not

to be named in comparison with the Salaam or
Angrab. The power of the Atbara depended entirely
upon the western drainage of the Abyssinian Alps
:

of itself

it

was

arteries of the

insignificant, until aided

The junction
character
and the

mountain chain.

Salaam at once changed

or Taccazzy completed

its

by the

grea,t

of the
Settite

importance as the great

river of Abyssinia, that has washed clown the fertile
its

LAST riEW OF THE ATBAEA.

CHAP, xix.]

soil

499

of those regions, to create the Delta of

Egypt; and
posits,

by animal de-

to perpetuate that Delta

that are

Lower

now forming a new Egypt beneath

of the Mediterranean. We had seen the

Atbara a bed of glaring sand a mere continuation of
the waters

the burning desert that surrounded

by a

its

monument

belt of withered trees, like a

to the

memory

course, fringed

We

of a dead river.

sacred

had seen the

sudden rush of waters when, in the still night, the

mysterious stream had invaded the dry bed, and
swept all before it like an awakened giant; we knew
at that

moment

"

the rains were falling in Abyssinia,"

although the sky above us was without a cloud. We

had subsequently witnessed that tremendous rainfall,

and seen the Atbara

at its grandest flood.

We

had

traced each river, and crossed each tiny stream that fed
the mighty Atbara from the mountain chain, and

we

now, after our long journey, forded the Atbara in its

infancy, hardly knee-deep over its rocky bed of about
sixty yards width,

and camped

in the little village

of Toganai, on the rising ground upon the opposite

side.

It

was evening, and we

upon an angarep
that surrounded us, and looked

among the lovely hills

down upon the Atbara

sat

for the last time, as the

sank behind the rugged mountain

(the elephant's head).

Once more

of

Eas

el

sun
Feel

thought of that

wonderful river Nile, that could flow for ever through

the exhausting deserts of sand, while the Atbara,
during the summer months, shrank to a dry skeleton,
although the powerful affluents, the Salaam and the

K K

500
Settite,

THE ATBABA EXPLORATION COMPLETED.

never ceased to flow

[CHAP. xix.

every drop, of their

waters was evaporated by the air, and absorbed by the

desert sand in the bed of the Atbara, two hundred
miles above

its

junction with the Nile

The

Atbara exploration was completed

and I
looked forward to the fresh enterprise of new rivers

and lower

latitudes, that should unravel the

of the Nile

mystery

CHAPTER XX.
ARRIVAL AT METEMMA, OR GALLABAT.

WE

left

the village of Toganai at 5 A.M. and, after

a rapid march of sixteen miles,

Metemma,

we came

in

view of

or Gallabat, in the bottom of a valley sur-

rounded by hills, and backed on the east by the range

of mountains of which Nahoot Guddabi formed the
extremity of a spur. As we descended the valley,
we perceived great crowds of people in and about the
town, which, in appearance, was merely a repetition
of Katariff.
It was market-day, and as we descended
the hill

and arrived

in the scene below, with our nine

camels heavily laden with the heads and horns of a

multitude of different beasts, from the gaping jaws

of hippopotami
to the vicious-looking heads of
rhinoceros and buffalo, while the skins of lions

and

masses of

the

various antelopes were

piled

above

much-prized hide of the rhinoceros, we were beset by

crowds of people who were curious to know whence
so strange

a party

had

appeared.

We

formed a

regular procession through the market, our Tokrooris

feeling quite at

Upon

home among

so

many

of their brethren.

arrival at the extremity of the valley,

we were

POISONOUS WATER.

502

[CHAP. xx.

horribly disgusted at the appearance of the water.

stream of about two inches in depth trickled

trifling

over a bed of sand, shaded by a grove of

The

trees.

putrefying bodies of about half a dozen donkeys, three

or four camels, and the remains of a number of horses,
lay in and about the margin of the water.

Never-

had scraped small holes in the sand,

and thus they were satisfied with this

theless, the natives

as

filters,

poisonous fluid

in

some of these

holes, the

women

were \vashing their filthy clothes. I immediately determined to follow up stream, until I should arrive
at some clear spot above these horrible impurities, that
were

Ascending the
rising ground, I found on the summit, at about half
a mile distant, an immense sycamore (F^cus sycamosufficient to create a pestilence.

whose

and wide - spreading branches

afforded a tempting shade.
Not far from this spot, I
found the bed of a dry torrent that flowed into the
rus),

green

poisoned stream of Gallabat.

ordered

my men

to

dig a deep hole in the sand, which fortunately discovered clear and good-flavoured water.
imme-

We

From

diately pitched tents close to the sycamore.

this elevation,

Gallabat,

about a hundred and

we had a

fifty feet

above

beautiful view of the amphitheatre

and mountains, while the crowded town lay

The Atbara was
below, as in the bottom of a basin.
of hills

not far distant, in the ravine between the

as
its

it

had made a sharp angle

at Toganai,

hill

ranges,

and altered

direction to the north.

Our

arrival

had made some

stir

in Gallabat,

and

THE TRADE OF ABYSSINIA.

CHAP, xx.]

many

503

people had followed us, and stared with

the

at

curiosity

collection

our visitors was an

Among

of

hunting

Abyssinian

much

trophies.

merchant,

whose acquaintance I had formerly made at

Cassala he was an agreeable and well-informed man,

Jusef,

who had been

and English

to Paris

tolerably.

and London, and spoke French

I accompanied him for a stroll

through the market, and was introduced by him to a

number

of the principal Abyssinian merchants.

principal trade of

Gallabat,

which

is

the

The

market-

commerce between Abyssinia and the

Egyptian provinces, is in cotton, coffee, bees'-wax, and

place for

all

Coffee

hides.

is

brought

in

large quantities

by the

Abyssinian merchants, who buy cotton in exchange,

for the manufacture of clothes according to their own

bought a quantity of excellent coffee at

the rate of two dollars for thirty-five pounds, equal
fashion.

to

about 2fc

lines

Sheds were arranged in

were occupied by the coffee-merchants

these

with their

a pound.

stores,

while a great stock of cotton in

some thousand, were piled

Not far from the mass
in rows in an open space.
of goods, was a confusion of camels, asses, and mules
I now met
that had formed the means of transport.

bales,

to the

number

of

an Italian merchant, with

whom

subsequently be-

came intimately acquainted, Signor Angelo Bolognesi

he had arrived from Khartoum to purchase
We were delighted to meet
coffee and bees'-wax.
a civilized European after so long an absence.

some

months we had had

little

intercourse

For
with

WE ENCOUNTER

504

MISSIONARIES.

any human beings beyond the

[CHAP. xx.

hunters

had

that

composed our party, in countries that were so wild

and savage, that the print of a naked foot upon r
sand had instinctively
cock.

brought the rifle upon full

Our European society was quickly increased
:

two German missionaries had

arrived,

an establishment that had been

set

en route

on foot

in

heart of Abyssinia, under the very nose of the

Theodore, who regarded

for

the

King

an unsavoury
from
fever, having foolsuffering
located
in
themselves
a
hut
close to the foul
ishly
stench of dead animals on the margin of the polluted
odour.

missionaries as

Both were

stream, the water of which they drank.

One

of these

preachers was a blacksmith, whose iron constitution

had

entirely given way,

and the

little

strength that

remained, he exhausted in endless quotations of texts

from the Bible, which he considered applicable to

every trifling event or expression. I regretted that I

could not agree with him in the propriety of invading
Abyssinia with Bible extracts, as the natives attached
as great importance to their
Christianity, as

own

particular form of

any other of the numerous

sects that

unhappily divide that beautiful religion into schisms

any fresh dogma introduced by strangers might de-

stroy the union of the Abyssinian Church,

and would

be not only a source of annoyance to the priesthood,

but would most probably influence them and the king

against

all

Europeans.

The blacksmith assured me

that, the special mission

upon which he was employed, was the conversion of

HORNS OF THE MAARIF ANTELOPE.

Seepage 485.

OF THE

UNIVERSITY
OF

THE THEOLOGICAL BLACKSMITH.

CHAP, xx.]

the Abyssinian Jews.

Jews

in England, that
at

experiment

suggested that

home,

505

we had

a few

might

offer a fair field for

an

before

we commenced

so

distant a country as Abyssinia

but

at

could not per-

suade the blacksmith, whose head was as hard as his

anvil he had fully persuaded himself that the word
;

God

of
the

own

(according to his

hammer with which,

translation of

was

it)

selon son metier, he

was

to

drive his views of the truth into the thick skulls of

If he

the people.

hammer

could twist iron, and

ploughshare into a sword, or reverse the form,

why

should he be unable

their

opinions

argument

but

effect

was perfectly

It

to

in

change

useless

to

continue the

prophesied trouble, as the king was

already discontented,

would not improve

stick to his trade,

and an

his

influx of missionaries

humour.

advised

which would obtain

more

respect than preaching.

word

of

God must be preached

He

him

him

for

in all countries

but,

nevertheless,

he had preached

the

that

the Apostle Paul had encountered dangers and

culties,

far

"

replied, that

to

diffi-

to,

and

converted the heathen," &c.

Whenever

have met an exceedingly ignorant mis-

sionary, he has invariably

Apostle Paul.

compared himself to the

In half an hour I found, that I was

conversing with

Whether

smith.

St.

Paul in the person of the black-

this excellent apostle is

among

the

captives in Abyssinia at the present moment, I do not

know

but, if so, their

memory

of the Bible will be

continually refreshed by quotations, which

fly

from

THE MISSIONARIES' MEDICINE

506

the tongue of

tlie

went

[CHAP. xx.

smith like sparks from his anvil.

His companion was very

I

CHEST.

ill,

and incapable of moving.

to see the poor fellow

upon

several occasions,

and found him

suffering from dysentery and diseased

These excellent but misguided people had a
first-rate medicine-chest, filled with useful drugs and

liver.

deadly poisons,

that

had been provided

for

them

cheaply, by the agent for their society at Cairo, who

had purchased the stock-in-trade of a defunct doctor.

This had been given to the missionaries, together with

the caution that many of the bottles were not labelled,

and that some contained

Thus provided with

a medicine-chest that they did not comprehend, and
with a number of Bibles printed in the Tigre lanpoison.

guage which they did not understand, they were prepared to convert the Jews, who could not read. The
Bibles were to be distributed as the word of God, like
"

seed thrown upon the wayside

"
;

and the medicines,

were to be kept locked up in the chest, as

their distribution might have been fatal to the poor
These worthy and well-meaning missionaries
Jews.
I trust,

were prepared to operate mentally and physically

upon the Abyssinians, to open their minds as well as
their

bowels

but as their

were out of order,

examination of their

own

(not

their

minds)

them by an
medicine-chest, which they had

was obliged

to assist

regarded with such dread and suspicion, that, although

dangerously ill, they had not dared to attempt a
This medicine-chest accompanied them like a
dose.
pet dog suspected of hydrophobia, which they did not

JEMMA SHEIK OF THE TOKROORIS.

CHAP, xx.]

507

and were yet afraid to touch. I

the poisons, and weighed out some doses, that

like to part with,

labelled

in a few days considerably relieved

time

advised the missionaries to

locality,

On
to

and

them

move

at the

same

to a healthier

to avoid the putrid water.

the day following our arrival, I paid a visit

the Sheik of Gallabat

were most people.

Jemma.

They were

too

He was

as

ill,

much accustomed

to the use of the

filthy water to trouble themselves

about a pure supply

thus, a frightful

amount of

was prevalent among all classes. The Sheik

Jemma was a Tokroori, and as these people hate the
sickness

Turks or Egyptians, although fanatical Mussulmans,

he was exceedingly cold when he read my firman,
that

had produced

demand

as a passport.

for assistance in

men and

He

replied to

camels, that

"

my
this

was Abyssinia, and the firman of the Viceroy of

Egypt was a bad introduction, as the Egyptians forced
them to pay tribute at the point of the bayonet,
a]

though they had no right to enter this country

;"

they paid* taxes willingly to the King of Abyssinia,

as he had the right to exact them.
I explained that,
that, as I

had

travelled through the dominions of the Viceroy, I

had

was an Englishman, and no Turk, but

been favoured with the sign-manual of his excellency

Said Pasha, and I narrated in a few words the object
of our expedition.

He

paid very little attention, and

could send him some goat's

merely asked me, if

milk, as he was very

a request,

were

as

there

ill.

was astonished

great

at such

numbers of these

THE EGYPTIANS ATTACK GALLABAT.

508

[CHAP. xx.

animals in the neighbourhood but he explained that,

his doctor had ordered him to drink the milk of a
;

black goat, and he had heard that I had two of

that-

promised him a supply, and he agreed

me in engaging camels and fresh men, as I

colour.

to assist

had formerly arranged with

my

people that their term

of service should expire upon our arrival at Gallabat

or

Metemma

The

latter

name merely

"
signifies

the

many places are designated by the same

word, it creates much confusion.
The Sheik Jemma was the successor of Hamed, who
capital

;"

as

The Egyptians had

captured Hamed three years previously, during which
time he had been imprisoned in Cairo. Upon his

formerly governed the Tokrooris,

release,

he wrote to

Jemma (who had

tempore) to prepare for his arrival

no intention of vacating
an impertinent message.

governed pro
but Jemma had

his seat, and he replied

Hamed

to the Governor-General of the

by

immediately applied

Soudan

for assistance,

declaring himself to be the subject of Egypt.

Having

obtained a powerful force, he advanced upon Gallabat

and attacked Jemma, who came out to meet him.

This happened about three months before our arrival.
In a pitched battle, the Tokrooris were defeated with
great loss, and Jemma, with the greater portion of the
population, sought the

king of Abyssinia.
sheiks before him,

assistance

of Theodore,

the

Theodore summoned the rival

and decided

that, as

Hamed had

appealed to Egypt for assistance, he should lose his

Accordseat, and remain a prisoner in Abyssinia.

SETTLEMENT OF THE TOKROOR7S.

CHAP, xx.]

Jemma was

ingly,

town

.of

Gallabat,

The Tokrooris
converted

declared to be the governor of the

and the sheik over

are

hibits the

in their

own

the

after

Northern Africa by the Arabs.

by a sultan

Tokrooris.

all

natives of Darfur,

Mahometanism

to

509

men

entrance of white

conquest of

who
;

were

are governed

They

country,

that

strictly pro-

thus Darfur re-

mains impenetrable to civilization. That country is

extremely arid and unfruitful thus, as the pilgrims
;

journeyed towards Mecca from their own inhospitable

soil, they passed through a land flowing with milk

and honey, with excellent pasturage and

in the

district

of Gallabat.

As

first

fertile

soil,

settlements of

man have always

been caused by some local attraction and advantage, so the Tokroori pilgrims, on their
return from Mecca, originally rested from the fatigues
of their journey in the neighbourhood of Gallabat, as

a country preferable to their own.

The establishment

of a few settlers formed a nucleus, and, as successive

pilgrimages to

Mecca were annually undertaken from

Darfur, the colony rapidly increased by the settlement

of the returned pilgrims.

blishment of a
the

new

numbers of

tribe

settlers

Thus commenced the

upon foreign
increased

to

soil,

esta-

and, as

an important

amount, permission was granted by the King of Abyssinia that

ritory,

they should occupy this portion of his

upon payment of taxes

Tokrooris are a

as his subjects.

ter-

The

powerful race, exceedingly black,

and of the negro type, but differing from all negroes
that

fine,

have hitherto known, as they are particu-

INDUSTRY OF THE TOKROORIS.

.510

larly industrious.

are

They

great

[CHAP. xx.

drunkards,

very

quarrelsome, and are bad servants, as, although they

will work hard for themselves, they will do as little

they can for their master. They are seldom unemployed and, while the Arab may be seen lazily

-as

stretched under the shade of a tree, the Tokroori will

be spinning cotton, or working at something that will

Even during the march, I have
earn a few piastres.
frequently seen

my men

gather the cotton from some

deserted bush, and immediately improvise a spindle,

through a piece of camel-dung, with

which they would spin the wool into thread, as they
walked with the caravan.
My Tokrooris had never

l^y sticking a reed

been

idle

during the time they had been in

my

service,

but they were at work in the camp during every spare

minute, either employed in making sandals from elephant's or buffalo's hide, or whips and bracelets from

the rhinoceros

Upon

skin,

which

they cleverly polished.

they had at least

our arrival at Gallabat,

camel-load of
factured.

On

all

kinds of articles they had manu-

the

following morning I had fouikl

them

sitting in the market-place,

stalls,

at

which they were

phies of their expedition

having established

selling all the various trofat,

hides, whips, sandals,

bracelets, &c.

The

district

inhabited by the Tokrooris

is

about

forty miles in length, including a population of about

twenty thousand.

Throughout the country, they have

cultivated cotton to a considerable extent, notwith-

standing the double taxes enforced by both Abys-

WEAPONS, TYPE, AND CHARACTER.

CHAP xx.]

sinians

and Egyptians, and

with extreme neatness.

511
are kept

their gardens

Although of the negro type,

the Tokrooris have not the

flat

nose

the lips are

full,

but not to be compared with those of the negroes of

West Africa

men

neither

the

is

jaw prognathous.

are extremely independent in manner.

armed with lances of various patterns

weapon

are

their favourite

it

can neither be withdrawn nor

pushed completely through the body, but,

there

flesh,

diimbane

They

a horrible instrument barbed with a dia-

is

bolical intention, as

the

The

it

must remain.

it

is

This

is

if

once in

called the

usually carried with two other lances

The Tokrooris despise

with plain heads.

shields

therefore, in spite of their superior personal strength,

they would be no match for the Arabs.

There is a curious weapon, the trombash, that

is

used by these people, somewhat resembling the Ausit is a piece of flat, hard wood,
tralian boomerang
;

about two feet in length, the end of which turns

sharply at an angle of about 30.
They throw this

with great dexterity, and inflict severe wounds with

the hard and sharp edge but, unlike the boomerang,
;

weapon does not return to the thrower.

The women are very powerful, but exceedingly

the

plain.

They

are

good workers, and

seen either spinning or weaving

remarkably clean, and are rarely

The greater portion

market of Gallabat
is

is

may be

constantly

they keep their huts

idle.

of the cotton exhibited in the

produced by the Tokrooris

uncleaned, and simply packed in

mat

bales of

it

THE COLONIZATION BY TOKROORIS.

512

hundred pounds weight, which

[CHAP, xx-

at that date, April,

1862, sold for one dollar each.

Much might
Were
people.

be done to improve these peculiar

the frontiers of Abyssinia positively

new

determined, and security insured to the

settlers,

the whole of that magnificent country through which

we had

and Gallabat

travelled between the Settite

might be peopled and cultivated. In many countries,

both soil and climate may be favourable for the
but such natural advantages
may be neutralised either by the absence of population,
cultivation of cotton

or

by the indolence

The Tokroori

of the natives.

a most industrious labourer

is

and, were he assured of

protection and moderate taxation, he

would quickly

change the character of those

lands, that are

now

uninhabited,

except

fertile

by wild

animals.

If the

emigration of Tokrooris from Darfur were encouraged,

and advantages offered to settlers, by grants of land
for a short

term exempt from taxation,

time to bear a certain rate per

acre, a

at a future

multitude of

emigrants would quit their own inhospitable country,

and would people the beautiful waste lands of the

These countries would produce an important supply of cotton, that might be

delivered at Souakim at an exceedingly low rate, and
Settite

and the Salaam.

find a market in England.

rooris benefit

by the change,

Not only would the Tokbut, should

it

be decided

that the Abyssinian frontier, instead of extending to

the Atbara river, should be confined to the ridge of

the

great

mountain

chain,

the revenues of

Upper

HONEY WINE OF

CHAP, xx.]

ABYSSINIA.

513

Egypt might be enormously increased by the

esta-

blishment of a Tokroori colony, as proposed.

I paid all my Tokrooris their
wages, and I gave
them an entertainment after their own taste, by pur.

chasing several enormous bowls of honey wine.

The

Abyssinians are celebrated for this drink, which

known

as

"

tetch."

It is

made

of various strengths;

that of good quality should contain, in ten parts,

of honey and eight of water

is

two

but, for a light wine,

one of honey, and nine of water is very agreeable.

There is a plant of an intoxicating quality known by
the Abyssinians as "jershooa," the leaves of which
are

added to the tetch while in a

state of fermentation

a strong infusion of these leaves will render the tetch

exceedingly heady, but without this admixture the

honey wine

is

by no means powerful.

In our subse-

quent journey in Central Africa, I frequently made

the tetch by a mixture of honey and water, flavoured
with wild thyme and powdered ginger

fermentation

was quickly produced by the addition of yeast from

the native beer, and the wine, after six or eight days,
became excellent, but never very strong, as we could
not procure the leaves of the jershooa.
My Arabs and Tokrooris enjoyed themselves amazingly,

and

until

late

at

night they were playing

rababas (guitars) and howling in thorough happiness

but on the following morning at sunrise I was disturbed by Wat Gamma, who complained that, during
the night some person had stolen three dollars, that had
for

some months been

carefully

L L

sewn up in

his clothes

ALL DRUNK LAST NIGHT.

514

[CHAP. xx.

he exhibited the garment that bore the unmistakeable

impression of the dollars, and the freshly-cut ends of

had been ripped open very

was magistrate, and in all cases

the thread proved that

Of course

recently.
I

was guided by

it

my own

code of laws, being at some

thousand miles from an Act of Parliament.

Wat Gamma had

no suspicion of any person in parbut his money had evidently been stolen.

ticular,

"

Who

were

all

was drunk

last night

drunk," replied the

drunk, and

who was

I inquired.

"
plaintiff.

the least drunk

This entailed a discussion

now

"
?

among

Who
"
?

"

We

was very

I inquired.

the people

who had

appeared that most of them had

been very drunk ;" others only a little drunk and
one old white-headed Arab camel-driver had been
assembled.

It

"

perfectly sober, as he never drank anything but water.

This was old Mini, a splendid specimen of a fine

partriarchal

Arab

joined the party.

he declared that he had

Wat Gamma had

even

riot

left his

garment
he
which
up
upon
usually slept this
was in the same spot where the camel-drivers lived, and
where old Mini declared he was fast asleep during the
in the mat,

rolled

drinking bout
suspicions, but to express

them would

have defeated the chance of discovery.

I therefore

had

my

usual rule in cases of theft. I counted

adopted

my

people

nine camel-men, five Tokrooris, Taher Noor,

and Bacheet; in

all

sixteen,

Three dollars were sixty

without

piastres,

sixteen equalled three piastres

my

Wat Gamma.

sixty divided

and thirty

paras.

by
Thus

THE THIEF DISCOVERED.

CHAP. xx. J

515

condemned the whole party to make up the loss, by

each paying his share of the amount stolen, unless the
I

thief could be discovered.

This plan was generally successful, as the thief was

the only man contented with the arrangement. Every
innocent

man became

mined not

to

pay a

a detective, as he was deter-

fine for another's theft.

A tremen-

dous row took place, every one was talking and no one
from my court of
listening, and the crowd went away
justice,

determined to search the

the bottom.

affair to

In about half an hour they all returned, with the

exception of old Mini they had searched everywhere,
;

and had found three

dollars concealed in the stuffing

of a camel's saddle, that belonged to Mini.

the sober man,

were drinking.

who had been

I

He was

asleep while the others

considered the case proved

and

Mini, having confessed, requested that I would flog

him rather than deliver him to the Tokroori authorities,

who would imprison him and take away

told him that I would not disgrace his

his camel.
tribe

by

flog-

ging one of their oldest men, but that I should take

him before the Sheik of Gallabat, and fine him the

amount that he had

stolen.

and Mini handed over

to

This I immediately did,

Jemma with great reluctance,

three dollars for the poor-box of Gallabat, or the private

pocket of the sheik, as the case may be.

On my return to camp I visited the establish-

ments of the various slave merchants

these

were

arranged under large tents formed of matting, and

contained many young girls of extreme beauty,
L L 2

VENUSES OF THE GALLA.

516

[CHAP. xx.

ranging from nine to seventeen years of age. These

lovely captives, of a rich brown tint, with delicately

formed

and eyes

features,

those of the gazelle,

like

were natives of the Galla, on the borders of Abyssinia, from which country they were brought by
the Abyssinian traders to be

harems.

Although

the Turkish

sold for

beautiful, these

are useless.

girls

they quickly fade away and die

unless kindly treated.
They are the Venuses of that
country, and not only are their faces and figures per-

for

hard labour

but they become extremely attached to those

fection,

who show them

wives.

faithful

kindness, and they ma'ke good and

There

is

something peculiarly cap-

tivating in the natural grace

and

softness of these

young beauties, whose hearts quickly respond to

those warmer feelings of love that are seldom known

among

the sterner and coarser tribes.

are peculiarly elegant

feet are

exquisitely

and graceful

delicate

the hands and

nose

the

Their forms

is

generally
nostrils
the
and
large
slightly aquiline,
finely shaped ;.
;

black and glossy, reaching to about themiddle of the back, but rather coarse in texture..

the hair

These
call

is

although natives of Galla, invariably

themselves Abyssinians, and are generally known

under

girls,

that

denomination.

They

are

exceedingly-

proud and high-spirited, and are remarkably quick

at learning.

At Khartoum,

several of the Europeans-

of high standing have married these charming ladies,,

who have
great

invariably

affection

rewarded

and devotion.

their

The

husbands

price

of one

byof"

WE LEA7E

CHAP, xx.]

GALLABAT.

these beauties of nature at Gallabat

517

was from twenty-

five to
forty dollars.

On

the 24th April

we were

refreshed

by a shower

of rain, and in a few days the grass sprang from the

There was an unpleasant

ground several inches high.

dampness in the air, and, although the rainy season

would not commence until June, showers would occasionally

fall

among

the mountains

throughout the

month, of May. I accordingly purchased a number of

large tanned ox-hides, that are rendered waterproof by
a preparation with milk. These skins cost the trifling

sum

of nine piastres each

(not

two

and

shillings),

were subsequently of great value during our White

Nile

expedition,

as

coverlets

during

the

night's

bivouac, &c.

The

horse- fair

was a disappointment. At

this season

the entire country in the neighbourhood of Gallabat

was subject

an epidemic, fatal to these animals

T had
therefore there were no good horses present.
to

nothing to detain

me

at this place, after

cured fresh camels, therefore

we

parted excellent friends.

paid

all

my

having propeople,

and

To the Arabs and Tok-

gave all the hides of rhinoceros, elephants, &c.

did not require, and, with our loads considerably

rooris I

that I

lightened,

we

April, 1862,

started from Gallabat, 12.30 P.M., 28th

and marched due west towards the

river

and well wooded, the

rocks were generally sandstone, and after a march of
Rahad.

The country was

three hours

we

hilly

halted at a Tokroori village.

never

witnessed more unprovoked insolence than was exhi-

A ROJF WITH THE TOKROORIS.

518
bited

by

Turk,

to

these people.

whom

their

[CHAP. xx.

They considered me to be a
natural hatred had been in-

by the chastisement they had lately received

from the Egyptians. It was in vain that my two lads,
creased

Gamma

and Baeheet, assured them that I was an

Englishman they had never heard of such a country as
England in their opinion, a white man must be a

"Wat

Not contented with refusing all supplies, they

assembled in large numbers and commenced a quarrel
Turk.

with

my

men, several of

had hired

whom

accompany us
men, being newly engaged and
I

of

little

to

service

true Tokrooris
altercation

were Tokrooris that

to

Khartoum.

These

entirely strange, were

but, having joined in the quarrel, like

who

grew

are always ready for a row, the

so hot that it

became rather

serious.

The natives determined that we should not remain

in

their village, and, having expressed a threat to turn

us,

out,

they assembled around us in a large crowd with

their lances

and trombashes.

My wife

was

sitting

by

me upon

an angarep, when the people closed around

my men, and one very tall specimen of a Tokroori
came forward, and, snatching a knife from its sheath

worn upon the arm of my servant, he challenged him to fight. As Tokrooris are always more or
that was

under the influence of drink, their fights are generally the effect of some sudden impulse. It was neces-

less

sary to do something, as the crowd were determined

upon a row this was now commenced by their

leader, who was eyeing me from head to foot with
;

most determined insolence, holding the knife in his

CHAP, xx.]

TOKROORI CHAMPION INSISTS ON FIGHTING. 519

hand that he had taken from

from

rose quietly

my

my

seat, and,

man.

approaching him to

within a convenient distance for striking,

I

begged him very politely to

selves, as

He

we should

I therefore

leave

if

necessary,

my people to

them-

depart on the following morning.

replied with great impertinence,

and

insisted

upon

I accommodated him
fighting one or all of .our party.
without a moment's delay, as, stepping half a pace
backwards, I came in with a left and right as fast as a

rapid double-hit could be delivered, with both blows

impudent mouth. In an instant he was on

back, with his heels in the air and, as I prepared

upon
his

his

to operate

upon

his backer, or

upon any bystander who

fighting, the crowd gave

might have a penchant for

way, and immediately devoted themselves to their
companion, who lay upon the ground in stupid
astonishment, with his fingers down his throat search-

fallen

were fixed upon my hands

to discover the weapon with which he had been
wounded. His friends began to wipe the blood from
ing for a tooth

his face

and

his eyes

clothes,

and at

the village appeared for the

To

first

time.

astonishment he was extremely

my

sudden reaction had taken

their row,

this juncture, the sheik of

place, the Tokrooris

and were apparently

me

not to

kill

satisfied.

civil

had had

The sheik

his people

by hitting them,
at once die
would
as they were mere chickens, who
I begged him
if I were to strike them with my fist."
begged
"

to keep his

order

"

chickens

"

in better order,

and at once to

them away from our immediate neighbourhood.

^ REAL FLAT-NOSED AFRICAN NIGGER.

520

[CHAP. xx.

Tn a few minutes the sheik drove the crowd away,

The sheik
picked up their man and led him off.
then begged us to accept a hut for the night, and he

who

paid us every attention.

On the following morning,
sunrise

left

shortly after

the natives very civilly assisted to load our

and among the most

camels,

we

active,

was

my

fighting

mouth

friend of yesterday, who, with his nose and

swollen into one, had been rapidly converted from

all

a well-featured Tokroori into

flat-nosed African nigger,

real

thick-lipped,

with prognathous jaw, that

would have delighted the Ethnological

Society.

hard during the night. Our

"April
course was due west, along the banks of a hor, from
It rained

29.

which the natives procure water by sinking wells

about twelve feet deep in the sandy bed, which is dry
in the hot season.
is

At 11

bad.

the

last

village

Throughout
A.M.

this country the

we reached Koumele;

between

Gallabat

The natives say that, there

the road, and their accounts of the

Kahad.

vague and contradictory that

this

and the
is

water
is

river

no water on

distance are so

cannot rely upon

the information.
"

of

my

could

procure only one water-skin,

old stock were serviceable

to water

all

I therefore

and none
arranged

the animals, and push on throughout the

by which plan I hoped to arrive by a forced

march at the Eahad on the following morning, without

night,

exhausting both men and beasts by a long journey

through an unknown distance in the heat of the sun.

DEATH OF AGGAHR AND GAZELLE.

CHAP, xx.]

521

Hardly were the horses watered at a well in the dry

bed of the stream, when Aggahr was taken ill with inflammation.

I left

orders to bring

two men

him on

if

to attend

upon him, with

better on the following

day

on our journey, but we had not proceeded

a quarter of a mile when Gazelle, that I was riding, was
with the
also seized with illness, and fell down

we

started

greatest difficulty I led the horse back again to the

good old hunter Aggahr died in great

agony a few minutes after our return, and Gazelle died

My

village.

during the night

the natives declared this to be the

horse sickness that was

season.

The

annually prevalent at this

disease appeared to be inflammation of

the bowels, which I attributed to the sudden change of

months past they had lived principally upon

dry grass, but within the past few days they had
greedily eaten the young herbage that had appeared
food

for

after a

few showers

with

this,

may have

been poison-

ous plants that they had swallowed unawares.

now only one horse, Tetel, that was ridden by
I therefore

determined to

start

We had
my

wife

on foot on the follow-

ing morning, and to set the pace at four miles an hour,

so as to reach the Eahad by a forced march in one
rapid stretch, and thus to eke out our scanty supply of
water.

Accordingly

we

started,

and marched

rate for ten hours, including a halt

rest for one

hour and a

the country

was a dead

covered with mimosa

miles,

half.

steering due west for

half-way, to

Throughout the distance,

flat

forest.

when

at that

of the usual rich

We

soil,

marched thirty-four
a distant hill, which in

FORCED MARCH TO THE RAHAD.

522

[CHAP. xx.

the morning had been a faint blue streak upon the

horizon.

"

our arrival at the

Upon

hill

we found

that the

was some miles beyond, while a fine rugged

mountain that we had seen for two days previous,
river,

rose about fifteen miles south of this point,

an unmistakeable landmark
tain

is

Hallowa.

We

the

name

and formed

of this

moun-

had marched with such rapidity

across ,this stretch of thirty-four miles, that our

men

were completely exhausted from thirst, as they had

foolishly drunk their share of water at the middle of
the journey, instead of reserving
distress.

down

Upon

arrival

at

the

the

it for

moment

of

Eahad they rushed

the steep bank, and plunged into the clear water

of the river.
"

in

The Eahad does not exceed eighty or ninety yards

The rain that had recently fallen in the
breadth.

mountain had sent a considerable stream down the

hitherto dry bed, although the bottom

covered.
fifty-five

was not

entirely

By dead reckoning, this point of the river is

miles due west from Gallabat or Metemma
;

throughout this distance we had seen no game, neither

the tracks of any animals except giraffes. We were
rather hard

and

up

for provisions, therefore I took

my

rod,

tried for a fish in a deep pool 1}elow the spot

where we had pitched the

tent.

I only

but I fortunately landed a handsome

had one run,

little

baggar

about twelve pounds weight, which afforded us a good

dinner.

The

river

miles from the

Dinder

Eahad

is

between

fifty

and sixty

at this point, but towards the

THE RIVEU EAEAD.

CHAP, xx.]

523

north the two rivers approximate closely, and keep

The banks of the Eahad
a course almost parallel.
are

in

many

places

feet

forty-five

perpendicular,

above

the

and are about

This

bed.

river

flows

through rich alluvial soil ; the country is a vast

level plain, with so trifling a fall that the current of
the river

is

gentle

the course

is

and although, when bank

full,

a considerable volume,

is

tributary to

any

of Gallabat,"

it

river that T

extremely circuitous,
the

Rahad

possesses

inferior as a Nile

very
have visited to the

east

CHAPTER

XXI.

FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY ON THE BANKS

OF THE RAHAD.

WE

daily followed the banks of the Rahacl, the

tony of which

I will

not

inflict

upon the

public.

monoThis

country was a vast tract of wonderfully fertile prairie,

that nearly formed an island, surrounded by the
it was
Rahad, Blue Nile, Great Nile, and Atbara
;

peopled by various tribes of Arabs, who cultivated

a considerable extent upon the banks of the Rahad,
which, for upwards of a hundred miles to the north,

were bordered with

villages at short intervals.

and tobacco were produced

largely,

Cotton

and we daily met

droves of camels laden with these goods, en route for

the Abyssinian market.
We had now fairly quitted

Abyssinian territory, and upon our arrival at the

Rahad we were upon the soil of Upper Egypt. I was
much struck with the extraordinary size and condition
of the

was

cattle.

Corn (dhurra) was

so plentiful that it

be purchased in any quantity for eight piastres

the rachel, or about Is. 8d. for 500 pounds ; pumpkins
to

were in great quantities, with a description of gourd with

JOURNEY ALONG THE RAHAD.

CHAP, xxi.j

525

an exceedingly strong shell, which is grown especial] y

for bowls and other utensils camel loads of these gourd;

basins packed in conical crates were also journeying

on the road towards Gallabat.

of the

Eahad the banks

Throughout the course

are high, and,

when

full,

the

would average forty feet in depth, with a gentle

stream, the course free from rocks and shoals, and ad-

river

mirably adapted for small steamers.

The entire country would be a mine of wealth were
it

planted with cotton, which could be transported

by camels

We

to Katariff,

travelled for

and thence

direct to Souakim.

upwards of a hundred miles along

the river, through the unvarying scene of

soil

flat alluvial

the south bank was generally covered with low

The Arabs were always

jungle.

marked contrast

civil,

and formed a

were mostly
of the Eoofar tribe.
Although there had been a
considerable volume of water in the river at the point

where we had
about

fifty

to the Tokrooris; they

first

met

it,

the bed was perfectly dry

miles farther north,

proving the great

The Arabs obtained

power of absorption by the sand.

water from deep pools in the river, similar
the

Atbara, but

importance

to

on a small

scale,

to those in

of not sufficient

contain hippopotami, which

season retired to the river Dinder.

at

this

Wherever we

slept

we were

these
besieged by gaping crowds of Arabs
people were quite unaccustomed to strangers, as the
route we had chosen along the banks of the Rahad

was

entirely out of the line adopted

by the native

merchants and traders of Khaitoum, who travelled vid

RICH COUNTRY.

526

Abou Harraz and

[CHAP. xxi.

These Arabs

Katariff to Gallabat.

were, as usual, perfectly wild, and ignorant of every-

My

thing that did not immediately concern them.

compass had always been a source of wonder to the

natives, and I was asked whether by looking into it I
could distinguish the "market days" of the different
villages

me

My own

for information

Tokrooris continually referred to

on various

topics, and, if I declined

begged me to examine my
moondera (mirror), as they termed the compass, and see
what it would say. This country swarmed with Arabs,
to reply, they invariably

and abounded in supplies

seven dollars each

large fowls were a

oxen were

superb, fat

penny

and

eggs were at the rate of nine for a penny farthing.

"We arrived at a large village, Sherrem, on May 11,

having marched 118 miles in a straight line along
the course of the Eahad.
I

had become

The heat was extreme, but

so thoroughly

that I did not feel

it

so

much

accustomed to the sun

as

men, whose heads

my

were covered with a thin cap of cotton (the tageea).

My camel-men had expected to find their families at a
village

that

we had passed about

six

miles

from

Sherrem, and they had been

we
men were

but on arrival

town
at

;"

the

rejoicing in anticipation,
found it deserted, " family out of

but upon arrival

their people, who had mi-

quite dejected

Sherrem they found

all

We

waited at
grated for water, as the liver was dry.
Sherrem for a couple of days to rest the men, whose
feet

were

ing

soil.

much

swollen with marching on the burn-

Although frequent showers had

fallen

at

WE

CHAP. XXL]

CROSS OVER TO THE DINDER.

527

we had

quickly entered the dry country upon

steering north, where neither dew nor rain had moistGallabat,

ened the ground for many months. The country was

treeless on the north bank of the Rahad, and the rich
alluvial soil

many

was

miles.

from a single stone or pebble for

Although for 118 miles we had travelled
free

along the course of the Rahad, throughout this distance

only one small brook furrowed the level surface and

added

waters during the rainy season to the river ;

the earth absorbed the entire rainfall.
Our camels
its

mad by

were nearly driven

throughout the

On

flies

which swarmed

fertile districts.

the 15th of

village

the

May we

arrived at Kook, a small

on the banks of the Rahad, and on the follow-

ing morning

we

started to

the west for the river

The country was the usual rich soil, but

covered with high grass and bush it was uninhabited,

Binder.

except by wandering Arabs and their

flocks,

that

migrate at the commencement of the rainy season,

when this land becomes a mere swamp, and swarms

with the seroot

slept

fly.

on the road.

At

6.30 P.M.

we

halted,

and

This was the main route to

Sennaar, from which place,

strings of camels

were

passing to the Rahad, to purchase corn.

On

16th

May, we started by moonlight

and at 7.30 A.M. we arrived

due west,

which,

at this point,

village of

We
at

this

at 4.30 A.M.

at the river

Dinder,

was eighteen miles from the

Kook, on the Rahad.

joined a

camp

season

throng

of

the

the

Kunana
banks of

Arabs,
the

who

Dinder.

528

FEROCITY OF CROCODILES IN THAT RIFER.

This river
larger

similar in character to the Kahad, but

is

the average breadth

ten yards

about a hundred and

is

the banks are about fifty feet high,

the immediate vicinity

nabbuk and thorny

of

[CHAP. xxi.

is

and

covered with thick jungle

acacias,

with a great quantity

of the acacia arabica, that produces the garra, already

described as valuable for tanning leather.

made

pounded and boiled, to which

added a few rusty nails, and allowed it to stand

ink with this

I

fruit,

The Binder was ex-

for about twenty-four hours.

ceedingly deep in
the bed was

many

dry,

with

places,

the

although in others-

exception

of

most

stream that flowed through a narrow channel

in the sand, about an inch in depth.
The Arabstrifling

assured

me

that the

in

crocodiles

river

this

were

more dangerous than in any other, and their flocksof goats and sheep were attended by a great number
of boys, to prevent the animals from descending to

the

water to drink, except in such places as had

been prepared for them by digging small holes in

the sand.
large

size

I
;

saw many of these

and,

as I strolled

creatures, of

along the

very
banks of

the river, I found a herd of hippopotami, of which

I shot two, to the great delight of

my

people, who-

had been much disappointed in the absence of gameWe had

throughout our journey from Gallabat.
travelled

seen so

much

as

200

a gazelle,

miles

without

having
had
we
neither
passed

game, except, upon one occaI had been told that

those of a few giraffes.

any tracks of
sion,

of

upwards

large

CHARACTER OF THE BINDER.

CHAP. xxi.J

529

the Dincler country was rich in game, but,

at this

was swarming with Arabs, and was so

much disturbed, that everything had left the coun-

season,

it

and the

try,

and

night,

merely drank during the

retreated to distant and impenetrable
elephants

At night we heard

jungles.

a lion roar, but

this, in-

stead of being our constant nightingale, as upon the

Settite river,

was now an uncommon sound.

inaneless lion

is

The

found on the banks of the Binder

game, in the neighbourhood of that river and the Eahad, were a few

all that I saw,

in the shape of

The stream of the

hippopotami and crocodiles.
Dinder is obstructed with many snags and trunks
of

fallen

that would

trees

.rapid navigation

be

serious

obstacles

to

these are the large stems of the

soont (Acacia Ardbica), that, growing close to the

-edge,

have fallen into the river when the banks have

given way.

was astonished

at the absence of ele-

phants in such favourable ground

walked along the margin

.a

track of any date.

ainimals

some miles

for

of the river without seeing

Throughout

this country, these

are so continually hunted,

that they have

^become exceedingly wary, and there can be little

doubt that their numbers are much reduced. Even

in the beautiful shooting country comprised between

the river Gash and Gallabat, although we had excellent sport, I had been disappointed in the number of
elephants, which I had expected to find in herds of

many hundreds,
largest

number

instead of forty or

fifty,

which was the

that I had seen together.

M M

The habits

ACTIVITY OF THE AFRICAX ELEPHANT.

530
of

all

[CHAP. xxi.

animals generally depend upon the nature of

Thus, as these countries

the localities they inhabit.

were subject to long drought and scarcity of water,

the elephants were, in some places, contented with
drinking every alternate day.

Where they were much

hunted by the aggageers, they would seldom drink

twice

consecutively in the same river

but,

after

a long draught in the Settite, they would march from

twenty-five to thirty miles, and remain for a day

between that river and the Mareb or Gash, to which

they would hurry on the following night. At other
times, these wily animals would drink in the Settite,

and

retire to the south

cornfields,

feeding upon

Mek Nimnmr's

they would hurry forward to the river

Salaam, about thirty miles distant, and from thence,

in a similar manner, either to the Atbara on one side,
or into the Abyssinian mountains, where, at

all

times,

I have frethey could procure a supply of water.

quently discovered fresh grains of dhurra in their

dung, at a great distance from the nearest cornfield

when
it

the rapid digestion of the elephant

must be allowed that the

fresh

is

considered,

dung found

in the

morning bore witness to the theft of corn duringthe past night thus the elephant had inarched many
;

miles after feeding.

In the " Eifle and

Hound

in

Ceylon/' published in 1854, I gave a detailed de~

scription of the elephants of that country, which,,

although peculiar in the general absence of tusks,

are the same as the Indian species.

Although the elephant

is

found throughout

many

DISTINCTION OF SPECIES.

CHAP. xxi.J

countries,

extending over an

531

enormous

area,

there

only two species at present in existence, the

Indian and the African; these are totally different
are

and are distinguished by peculiarities

The most striking difference is in the shape

in their habits,

of form.

of the head

and

The head of the Indian

spine.

the forehead,

species is perfectly distinct';

in the natural position of inaction.,

and above the

trunk there
shield

is

is

when held

perpendicular

the root of the

slight convexity at

a depression, in shape like a herald's

a bullet in the lower portion of that shield

will reach the brain in a direct line.

The head

of

completely convex from the

commencement of the trunk to the back of the skull,

the African elephant

and the brain

Indian

of the
quality,

is

is

much lower than

situated

species

and the cases

the bone

is

of

in that

denser

for the reception of the tusks

are so closely parallel, that there is barely

room

for

a bullet to find a chance of penetrating to the brain

it

must be delivered in the exact

centre,

and ex-

tremely low, in the very root of the trunk; even

then it will frequently pass above the brain, as the

animal generally carries his head high, and thrown

differ
slightly back. The teeth of the African elephant
materially from those of the Indian,
lesser

mmber

by containing a

of laminae or plates, the surfaces

of

which, instead of exhibiting strait and parallel lines

like those of the Indian, are

shaped in slight curves,

which increase the power of grinding. The ears of

the African species are enormous, and when thrown

M M

PECULIARITY OF FORM.

532

[CHAP. xxr.

back, they completely cover the shoulders

also

Indian species.
vances in

in shape

different

entirely

When

they are

from those of the

an African

bull elephant ad-

charge with his ears cocked, his head

full

measures about fourteen feet from the

of one ear

tip'

to that of the other, in a direct line across the fore-

head.
.'mat,

tree,

have frequently cut off the ear to form a

upon which I have slept beneath the shade of a
I

while

The back
convex

people divided the animal.

my

of the Indian elephant

of the African

that

is

is

exceedingly

exactly the reverse,

and the concavity behind the shoulders is succeeded by

a peculiarity in the sudden rise of the spine above the

The two

hips.

species are not only distinct in certain

peculiarities of form,

but they

The Indian elephant

dislikes the sun,

retreats to thick

shady

differ

in their habits.

and invariably

forests at sunrise

but

have

constantly found the African species enjoying themselves in the burning sun in the hottest hours of the

day,

among

plains of withered

grass,

many

miles

from a jungle. The African is more active than the

Indian, and not only is faster in his movements,

more capable of enduring long marches, as

proved by the great distances through which it travels
but

is

to seek its food in

countries,
I

the

cannot see

bulls

much

the
are

native's cornfields.

all

the

females.

in character

between

fiercer

difference

than

In

Indian and the African species;

it

is

the fashion

some people to assert that, the elephant is an

innocent and harmless creature, that like the giraffe,

for

CHAP, xxi.]
is

it

AFRICAN AND INDIAN ELEPHANTS.

almost a sin to destroy.

533

can only say that,

during eight years' experience in Ceylon, and nearly

five years' in Africa, I have found that elephants
are

the

most

animals

formidable

with which

The African species is

sportsman has to contend.
far more dangerous than the Indian, as the forehead
shot can never be trusted

therefore the hunter

await the charge with a conviction that,

must

his bullet

will fail to kill.

The African elephant

about a foot higher than

is

The bulls of
average of the Indian species.
the former are about ten feet six inches at the
the

shoulder;

nine feet

females

the

between nine

are

Of course there

six.

are

many

feet

and

bulls that

exceed this height, and I have seen some few of

both species that might equal twelve feet, but those
are the exceptional Goliahs.

The tusks

of

vary

elephants

considerably,

there appears to be no rule to determine

and

for their

size

a single

tusk of a bull

quality.

and

a reason

In Abyssinia and Taka,

elephant seldom exceeds

forty pounds, nor do they average

more than twenty-

but in Central Africa they average about forty,

and I have seen them upwards of one hundred and

five,

fifty

pounds.

fortune

was

The

to bag,

slightly

largest that I

have had the good

was eighty pounds, the fellow-tusk

below seventy.

Elephants invariably

one tusk in preference, as we use the right

hand; thus it is difficult to obtain an exact pair, as
use

the

Hadam

(or

servant),

as

the

Arabs

call

the

534

DESTRUCTION OF FORESTS.

working tusk,

is

is

elephant

generally

much

more decided

Indian, and the

[CHAP. xxi.

worn.

The African

tree-feeder

than

the

committed by a large

destruction

herd of such animals when feeding in a mimosa

they deliberately march
forward, and uproot or break down every tree that

forest

is

excites

extraordinary

their

The mimosas

appetite.

from sixteen to twenty

they are

tap-root,

of the

easily

high, and, having

overturned

roots,

and used

as

no

by the tusks

which are driven

elephants,

beneath the

feet

are generally

crowbars

like

levers,

in

which

rough labour they are frequently broken. Upon the

overthrow of a tree, the elephants eat the roots

and

leaves,

and

strip

the bark from the branches

by grasping them with their rough trunks.

The African elephant is equally docile
Indian,

when

we have no

domesticated, but

animals

their

only

the

account

tamed one of these

of a negro tribe that has ever

sagacious

as

maxim

is

"kill

and

Although the flesh of the elephant is extremely

coarse, the foot and trunk are excellent, if properly

eat."

cooked.

hole should be

four feet deep,

and two

dug

in the earth, about

feet six inches in diameter,

the sides of which should be perpendicular; in this

should be lighted, and kept burning for

four or five hours with a continual supply of wood,

a large

fire

so that the walls

of

the

blaze,

become

the

foot

red-hot.

should

At
be

the expiration

laid

upon the

glowing embers, and the hole should be covered

closely with thick pieces of green wood laid parallel

ELEPHANTS' FOOT, A LUXURY.

CHAP. XXL]

535

together to form a ceiling; this should be

covered

with wet grass, and the whole should be plastered

with mud, and stamped tightly down to retain the
heat.

Upon

the mud, a quantity of earth should be

and the oven should not be opened

heaped,

At

or more.

thirty hours,

the

expiration

time, the foot will be perfectly baked,

for

of that

and the

sole

and expose a delicate subwith a little oil and vinegar, together

will separate like a shoe,

stance that,

with an allowance of pepper and salt,

dish that will feed about fifty men.

The Arabs
as

is

it

have frequently
of the animal for cooking, but it should
I

be taken from the body without delay;

a few hours,

The

boiling

care,

as

it

it

as, if left for

partakes of the peculiar smell of the

which no amount of boiling

elephant,

a delicious

are particularly fond of elephant's flesh,

generally fat and juicy.

used the fat

is

will overcome.

of fat for preservation requires

much

should attain so great a heat that a few

water thrown upon the surface will hiss

and evaporate, as though cast upon molten metal it
drops

of

should then be strained, and

when

tolerably cool,

should be poured into vessels, and secured.

is

is killed,

No salt
When

thoroughly boiled.
the flesh should be properly dried

necessary, provided

an animal

it

it is

before boiling down, otherwise the fat will not melt

thoroughly, as

it

will

contained in the body.

as well as possible

be combined with the water

The

fat should

from the meat

it

be separated
should then

be hung in long strips upon a line and exposed in

535 PRESERVATION OF FLESH FOE THE MARCH.

the

sun to dry

cut into

when

nearly dried,

should be

it

two inches in length, and

over a brisk fire, and kept

pieces of about

placed in a large vessel

As the

constantly stirred.

[CHAP, xxi,

boils

fat

out from the

meat, the residue should be taken out with a pierced

ladle

this,

when

This

in leather bags.

should be carefully preserved

cool,

a supply of which

is

most valuable,

can be served out to each

when

there

is

man

no time to halt

out bread, and

it

is

"

by the Arabs

called

is

reveet,"

a quantity

as

during a long march

it can be eaten with-

With

extremely nourishing.

good supply of reveet

in

store,

the

need

traveller

Dried meat should

not be nervous about his dinner.

the best is that of

be kept in large quantities
the giraffe and hippopotamus, but there is some care
also

required in preparing the

first quality.

It

should be

cut from portions of the animals as free as possible

from sinews, and should be arranged in long thin

strips of the diameter of about an inch and a quarter ;
these

ribbon-like

shade.

When

down, and

nearly

laid

should be

morsels

dry,

upon a

flat

hung

they should
rock,

be

in

the

taken

upon which they

should be well beaten with a stone, or club of hard

wood

this breaks the fibre

after which,

they should

be hung up and thoroughly dried, care being taken

If many
that the flesh is not exposed to the sun.
flies

are present, the flesh should be protected

smoke

by the

of fires lighted to windward.

When meat

is

thus carefully prepared,

used in various ways, and

is

it

can be

exceedingly palatable

if

xxi.]

PREPARATION OF BREAD FOR A JOURNEY. 537

pounded into small pieces

like

coarse

sawdust,

it

forms an admirable material for curry and rice. The

Arabs make a first-class disli of melach, by mixing
a

quantity

pounded dried meat with

of

a thick

porridge of clhurra meal, floating in a soup of bar'

mian (waker), with

onions,

salt,

and red peppers;

an admirable thing if the party is pressed

time (if not too hot), as a large quantity can be

this is
for

with great expedition.

As the Arabs are
nomadic, they have a few simple but effective areaten

rangements for food

fortnight
are

during the

preparatory to an expedition, the

women

engaged in manufacturing a supply of

This is made in several methods
there is

busily

abrey.

the sour, and the sweet abrey; the

of

For

journey.

highly-fermented

intensely acid

this is

former

is

made

dhurra paste that has turned

formed into thin wafers, about

upon the doka or hearth,

the sun until the abrey has become

sixteen inches in diameter,

and dried in
perfectly

with

the

crisp

the

hands,

wafers

and packed

then

are
in

broken

bags.

up

There

is

no drink more refreshing than water poured over a

handful of sour abrey, and allowed to stand for
an hour

half

it

becomes pleasantly

superior to lemonade.

The residue

is

acid,

eaten

and

is

by the

Arabs, thus the abrey supplies both meat and drink.

The

finest quality

affair
is

of sweet abrey

is

a very delicate

the flour of dhurra must be well sifted

it

then mixed with milk instead of water, and, with-

out fermenting,

it is

formed into thin wafers similar

THE SOS GAFFER.

538

[CHAP. xxi.

eaten with ice-creams in this country, but

extremely large ; tliese are dried in the sun, and

to those

crushed like

months

the

sour abrey

will

keep for
A handful

they

kept dry in a leathern bag.

of sweet abrey steeped in a bowl of hot milk, with,
a

little

if

honey,

be more

is

a luxurious breakfast; nothing can

and

delicious,

it

can

be

prepared

in

few minutes during the short halt upon a journey.

With a good supply of abrey and dried meat, the
commissariat arrangements are wonderfully simplified,
and a party can march a great distance without much

heavy baggage to impede

The flesh that is the
is

their

movements.

adapted for drying

that of the buffalo (Bos Coffer) which is exceed-

ingly tough

and

Bos Coffer

the

There are two species of

in Abyssinia and Central Africa,
coarse.

which,

similar

horns

that which

of

in

South Africa

least

general appearance, differ in the

resembles the true

has

that unite in front, and completely

head as with a shield

convex horns

massive

very

Bos Gaffer

cover the fore-

the other variety has mas-

but perfectly flat horns of great breadth, that

do not quite unite over the os front is, although

sive,

nearly so

the flatness of the horns continues in a

rough surface, somewhat resembling the bark of a

the horns then become
tree, for about twelve inches
;

round, and curve gracefully inwards,

the

convex

species.

Buffaloes

are

like

those of

very dangerous

and determined animals but, although more accidents

;

occur in hunting these than

any other variety of

THE MOST FORMIDABLE ANIMALS.

CHAP, xxi.]

539

cannot admit that they are such formidable

opponents as the elephant and" black rhinoceros

game,

much more numerous than

they are so

the latter,

more frequently encountered; hence

that they are

the casualties.

A buffalo
and

six

can always be killed with a No. 10

drachms of powder when charging,

rifle

if

the

hunter will only wait coolly until it is so close that

he cannot miss the forehead ; but the same rifle will
fail

against an African elephant, or a black rhinoceros,

as the horns of the latter animal effectually protect

brain

the

from

a front shot.

have killed

some

hundreds of buffaloes, and, although in many cases

they have been unpleasantly near, the rifle has always

won

the day.

There cannot be a more convenient

than No. 10 for a double

will

throw a conical

rifle,

projectile

for large

game.

size

This

of three ounces, with

seven drachms of powder.

a luxury, I
rifles

Although a breechloader is
would not have more than a pair of such

in an expedition in a wild country, as they

require

more

care in a

damp

would

climate than the servants

bestow upon them, and the ammuThis should be

nition would be a great drawback.

would be

likely to

divided into packets of ten cartridges each, which

should be rolled up in flannel, and hermetically sealed

Thus arranged, they would

damp, and might be carried conve-

in separate tin canisters.

be impervious to
But I should decidedly provide myself with
niently.
four double-barrelled muzzle-loading No. 10's as my
regular battery

that, if first class,

would never get out

RIFLES FOR WILD COUNTRIES.

540
of order.

[CHAP. xxi.

Nothing gives such confidence to the gun-

bearers as the fact of their

rifles

being good slayers,

and they quickly learn to take a pride in their weapons,
and to strive in the race to hand the spare rifles. Dust
storms, such as I have constantly witnessed in Africa,

would be

terrible

enemies

to

hard sand, by grating in the

breechloaders, as the

joints,

would wear away

the metal, and destroy the exactness of the

small handy

double

rifle,

fittings.

such as

my

little

Fletcher 24, not exceeding eight pounds and a half,

is

very necessary, as it should seldom be out of the hand.

Such a rifle should be a breechloader, as the advantage of loading quickly while on horseback
culable.

Hunting-knives

should

be of

is

soft

incalsteel,

similar to butchers' knives; but one principal knife

be worn daily should be of harder steel, with

the back of the blade roughed and case-hardened
like a butcher's steel, for sharpening other knives
to

when

required.

All boxes for rough travelling should be

strong metal, japanned.

made

of

These are a great comfort, as

they are proof both against insects and weather, and

can be towed with their contents across a river.
Travelling

is

now

so generally understood, that

it

hardly necessary to give any instructions for the

exploration of wild countries ; but a few hints may be

is

acceptable
essential,

upon points

tend

much

that, although not absolutely

to the comfort of the traveller.

couple of large carriage umbrellas with double lining,

with small rings fixed to the extremities of the ribs,

SUNDRY

CHAP, xxi.]

and a spike similar

handle

the

into

HINTS.

541

to that of a fishing-rod to screw

form an instantaneous

this will

from sun or rain during a halt on the march, as

a few strings from the rings will secure it from the
shelter

pegged to the ground. Waterproof calico

sheeting should be taken in large quantities, and a
wind,

if

tarpaulin to protect the baggage during the night's

No

bivouac.

vulcanised Indian-rubber should be em-

ployed in tropical climates

useless.

meat

is

it

rots,

and becomes

quart syringe for injecting brine into fresh

very necessary. In hot climates, the centre of

the joint will decompose before the salt can penetrate

to the interior, but an injecting syringe will thoroughly

A few

preserve the meat in a few minutes.

powerful

fox-traps are useful for catching night-game in countries

where there

is

no large game

for the rifle

also

'

wire

is

useful for

making

springs.

Several sticks of Indian-ink are convenient, as sufficient can be rubbed

up

in a

few moments to write up

the note-book during the march. All journals and

note-books should be of tinted paper, green, as the
glare of white paper in the intense sunlight of the

open sky

and

is

flint

most trying to the eyes. Burning glasses

and steels are very necessary.
Lucifer

matches are dangerous, as they

may

ignite

and de-

stroy your baggage in dry weather, and become utterly

useless in the

damp.

A large

supply of quicksilver should be taken for

the admixture with lead for hardening bullets, in addition to that required for the artificial horizon

the

BULLETS FOR LARGE GAME.

542
effect of tliis

metal

is

far greater

[CHAP. xxi.

than a mixture of

tin,

as the specific gravity of the bullet is increased.

Throughout a long experience in wild sports, although

admire the velocity of conical projectiles, I always

have retained

where

my

opinion that, in jungle countries,

in the absence of

disable your

game on the

blood-track that

two-groove

modern

is

dogs you require either to

spot, or to

easily followed, the old-fashioned

belted ball will bag

bullets

produce a distinct

more game than

but on the other hand, the

facility of

loading a conical bullet already formed into a cartridge

a pointed projectile

is

old belted ball, unless

nothing compared to that of the

on the principle of Purday's

it is

high velocity expanding

fection

The shock produced by

a great advantage.

is

bullet, which,

for deer-shooting,

would be

although per-

useless

against

thick-skinned animals, such as buffalo and rhinoceros.

In Africa, the variety of game

sible to tell,

when

loading, at

is

such, that

rifle

impos-

what animal the

will be fired, therefore it is necessary to be

it is

My little

suitable for all comers.

bullet

armed with

Fletcher was

the Enfield bore, No. 24, and, although a most trusty

weapon, the bullets generally failed to penetrate the

skull of hippopotami, except in places where the bone

was

thin, such as

Although

behind the

I killed great

ear,

and beneath the

eyes.

numbers of animals with the

Enfield bullet, the success was due to tolerably correct

shooting,

as I generally lost the larger antelopes if

wounded by

that projectile in any place but the neck,

head, or shoulder; the

wound

did not bleed freely,

ANTELOPES OF CENTRAL AFRICA.

CHAP, xxi.]

therefore

was next

it

up the
of wounded

to impossible to follow

thus a large proportion

blood-track;

543

animals escaped.
I saw,

and

shot, thirteen varieties of antelopes while

Upon arrival at Khartoum, I met Herr von

Heuglin, who commanded the expedition in search of
Dr. Vogel; he was an industrious naturalist, who had

in Africa.

been

many

years in the Soudan and in Abyssinia.

"We compared notes of all we had seen and done, and

he very kindly supplied me with a list of all the antelopes that he

had been able

Abyssinia and the Soudan

to trace as existing in

he

now

included

my

maarif, which he had never met with, and which he

agreed was a new species. In the following list, which

an exact copy of that which he had arranged, those

marked with an asterisk are species that I have
is

myself shot

du genre " ANTILOPE," observees enEgyptc,

Nubie, au Soudan orientale et en Abissinie.

Catalogue des esp&ces

dans

la

A.
G.

GAZELLA, Blains.

Dorcas*

1.

Spec.

2.

G. ardbica* Ehr.

3.

G.

Lcevipes,

Arab. Ghasal.

A le

Sund.

cote de la

Arab.

Mer

rouge.

Abou Horabet

(Nubie, Taka

Sennaar, Kordofan).

en Tigreh Choquen (Bogos).

Arab. Adra, Ledra (Kiel, Bajouda, Berber,

4.

5.

G.

6.

G. Soemmeringii, Eiipp.

spec. (?

?)

Dama* Licht.

Sennaar, Kordofan).

Arab.

Om

Oreba.

(Taka, Massowa, Gedaref, Berber, Sennaar).

Tigruh, Arab

ANTELOPES OF CENTRAL AFRICA,

544
7.

minces et

Abou Harab.

Arab.

G. Leptoceros.

[CHAP. xxi.

Gazelle a longues comes,

Taka,

Sennaar,

Arab. Otrab and El Mor.

Amhar.

Berber,

(Bajouda,

parallelles

Kordofan).

CALOTRAGUS, Luad.

B.

montanus*

8.

C.

9.

C. Saltatrix, Forst.

Fiego.

Eiipp.

Sennaar, Abissinie, Taka, Galabat.

C.

10

Amhar. Sasa

XANOTRAGUS, Wagn.
Arab.

Hemprichianus* Ehr.

JV.

(Abissinie).

Om

Abissinie, ori-

dig dig.

entale et occidentale, Taka, Kordofan.

CEPHALOLOPHUS, H. Smith.

D.
11.

Madaqua. Amnar. Midakoua, Galabat, Barka, Abissinie.

Deus especes inconues du Eleuve blanc, nominees par
13.

C.

12 and

les

Djenkes,

"Amok."
EEDUNCA.

E.

Eleotragus, Sclirb.

14.

7?.

15.

R. Behor, Eiipp.

Babr

Djenkeh, Bor.

el

Amnar. Behor (Abissinie

Abiad.

centrale,

Kor-

dofan).
16.

R. Kull, nov.

17.

R.

leucotis,

spec.

Djenke, Koul (Bahr

Peters et Licht.

Djenk.

el

Abiad).

Banr

Adjel.

el abiad,

Saubat.

Djenke, Ouil. Bahr

Bahr el Abiad.

18.

R. Wuily nov.

19.

72. Lechee* Gray.

R. megaceros* Heuglin.

20.-

Abok.
21.

spec.

Djenke, Bor.

22.

Kobus Maria,

Abiad, Saubat.

Djenke,

Gray.

Saubat, Bahr el Abiad and Bahr Crhazal.

R. Defassa,* Eiipp.

el

el

Bahr

Arab.
el

Om

Hetehet.

Amhar. Do fasa.

Salame, Galabat, Kordofan, Bahr

Abiad, Dender, Abissinie, occidentale et centrale.

R. ellipsiprymna, Ogilby.

Djenk, Bor.

Bahr

el

Abiad.

AND

CHAP, xxi.]

//.

545

HIPPOTRAGUS, Sund.

F.
23.

ABYSSINIA.

Abou

Arab.

niger, Harris.

Kordofan meridi-

Maarif.

onale, fleuve Blanc (Chilouk).

24.

//.

Abou Maarif

Arab.

nov. spec.

Bdkerii*

laam, Galabat, Dender, fleuve Bleu.

25.

//.

Damma.

Arab. Bei'sa et

Beisa, Eiipp.

Bahr

el

Sa-

Sennaar meridionale.
Souakim, Mas-

sowa, Danakil, Somauli, Kordofan.

26.

Ehr.

Arab. Ouahoh

Addax, Licht.

Arab. Akach.

II. ensicornis,

el

bagr.

Nubie, Berber,

Kordofan.
27.

//.

Bajouda, Egypte occi-

dentale (Oasis de Siouali).

G.

TAUROTRAGUS, Wagn.

28.

T. Orcas, Pall. (Antilope Canna).

29.

T. gigas, nov. spec.

Djenke, Goualgoual.

Bahr

Abiad.

Chez

les pleuplades Atoats,

au Bahr

el

Abiad.

H.
30.

TRAGELAPHUS, Blains.
Arab. Nellet, Miremreh.

Tr. strepsiceros (Pallas).

Garona.

Amhar. Agazen.

Abissinie, Sennaar,

Tigreh,

Homran,

Galabat, Kordofan.
31.

Tr. sylvaticus, Sprerm.

32.

Tr.

Bahr

Ber.

B. mauritanica,

BUBALIS.

Sund, (Antilope Bubalis,

Tetel; Tigreh, Tori.

dofan,

34.

Abiad.

Eiipp. Amhar. Dekoula, Arab. Houch, Djenke,

Taka, Abissinie, Bahr Abiad.

I.

33.

el

Dekula*

Cuvier).

Arab.

Taka, Homran, Barka, Galabat, Kor-

Bahr Abiad.

B. Caama, Cuv.

Djenke, Awalwon.

Arab. Tetel.

Bahr

Abiad, Kordofan meridional.

35.

B. Senegalensis, H. Smith.

36.

B. Tiang, nov.

spec.

Bahr

el

Abiad.

Djenke, Tian.

Ghazal.
37.

B. Tian-rieL nov. spec.

Bahr

el

N N

Abiad.

Bahr Abiad, Bahr

ANTELOPES OF CENTRAL AFRICA.

546

[CHAP. xxi.

SPECIES INCERT2E.
" Soada" au Oualkait et Mareb
(Taurotragns 1).
" Uorolo" an
Godjam, Agow (Hippotragus).

" OuoademU"
" El

Mor"

Mareb, Oualkait (Hippotragus).

Sennaar, Fazogle (Nanotragus ?).

Kordofan (Eedunca ?).

Kordofan (Gazella ?).

El Khondieh."
"

Om

"

M ffamra"

Khat."

Kordofan, Bajouda (Gazella?).

CHAPTEE
WE LEAVE THE

XXII.
D1KDEK.

FOR some days we continued our journey

along the

banks of the Dinder, and as the monotonous river

turned towards the junction with the Blue Nile, a few
miles distant,

we made

country, to cross the

on the Blue

Nile.

a direct cut across the

Eahad and

We passed

arrive at

numerous

flat

Abou Harraz
villages

and

extensive plantations of dhurra that were deserted

by

the Arabs, as the soldiers had arrived to collect the taxes.

measured the depths of the wells, seventy-five feet

and a half, from the surface to the bottom the alluI

whole distance, until

the water was discovered resting upon hard sand, full
vial soil appeared to continue the

During the march over a

portion of the country that had been cleared by burnof small particles of mica.

we met a remarkably curious hunting-party. A

number of the common black and white stork were
ing,

and

insects,

but

mounted upon the back of each stork was a

large

hunting for

grasshoppers

other

copper-coloured flycatcher, which, p^prched like a rider

on

his horse,

kept a bright look-out for insects, which

N N 2

CURIOUS HUNTING PARTY.

548

from

elevated

its

it

position

xxn.

[CHAP.

could easily discover

upon the ground. I watched them for some time

whenever the storks perceived a grasshopper or other
winged insect, they chased them on foot, but if they
:

missed their game, the flycatchers darted from their

backs and flew after the insects like falcons, catching
them in their beaks, and then returning to their steeds
to look out for another opportunity.

On

the evening of the 23rd

Kahad
still

close to its junction

dry, although the

for this,

from the

arrived

with the Blue Nile

Dinder was

fact of the

Kahad's bed, which from

course,

May we

its

rising.

.at

the-

it

was

accounted

extreme length of the

extraordinary tortuous

must absorb a vast amount of water

in the dry

sand, before the advancing stream can reach the Nile.

Both the Kahad and Dinder

rise in the

mountains of

Abyssinia, at no great distance from each other, and

during the rains, they convey a large volume of water

to the Blue Nile.
Upon arrival at Abou Harraz, four
miles

to

the north

of the

Eahad

junction,

we had

marched, by careful dead reckoning, two hundred and

We were now about a
eighty miles from Gallabat.
1

hundred and

fifteen

miles from Khartoum, and

we

stood upon the banks of the magnificent Blue Nile

the last of the Abyssinian affluents.

About

six miles

of the river,
is

is

above this spot, on the south bank

the large town of

Wat Medene, which

the principal trading place upon the river.

Harraz was a miserable

us the turning point

spot,

Abou

and was only important

upon the road

to Katariff front

CHAP, xxii.]

CHARACTER OF ABYSSINIAN RIPERS.

Khartoum.

The

entire

is

on

north and east

the

The

Atbara,

country upon both sides of

one vast unbroken level of rich

the river

549

sides

entire surface

is

which

bounded by the

of this

might be cultivated with cotton.

soil,

fertile

All that

is

country
required

to insure productiveness, is a regular supply of water,

which might be artificially arranged without much

The character of all the Abyssinian rivers
difficulty.
is

to rise

and

fall

suddenly, thus, at one season there

an abundance of water, to be followed by a scarcity

but in all the fertile provinces adjacent to the Settite

is

and the upper portion of the Atbara, the periodical

rains can be absolutely depended upon, from June to
the middle of September

thus, they are peculiarly

adapted for cotton, as a dry season is insured for

As we advance to the north, and
gathering the crop.
reach

Abou

we had
inches,

left

Harraz,

we

leave the rainy zone.

When

had sprung several

the recent showers but as we had

Gallabat, the grass

owing to

proceeded rapidly towards the north, we had entered

upon vast dusty plains devoid of a green blade ; the
rainy season between Abou Harraz and Khartoum,
consisted of

mere occasional storms,

that,

descending

with great violence, quickly passed away. Nothing

would be more simple than to form a succession of
weirs across the

Kahad and Dinder,

that

would enable

the entire country to be irrigated at any season of the

year,

but there

is

not an engineering work of any

description throughout

Upper Egypt, beyond the sageer

or water-wheel of the Nile.

Opposite

Abou Harraz,

BORASSUS ^ETHIOPICUS.

550

[CHAP.

xxn.

the Blue Nile was a grand river, about five hundred

yards in width the banks upon the north side were

the usual perpendicular cliffs of alluvial soil, but per;

fectly bare of trees

while on the south, the banks

were ornamented with nabbuk bushes and beauti-

palms the latter are a peculiar species known

by the Arabs as "dolape" (Borassus JEtliiopicus)
the stem is long and of considerable thickness, but in

ful

about the centre of

its

its

length

it

swells to nearly half

diameter in excess, and after a few feet of extra

thickness,

which

is

shaped
is

palm
it is

it

continues

its original size to

by a handsome

crowned

like those of the palmyra.

about the

fume

of apricots

crest

The

size of a cocoa-nut,

of a bright yellow, with an

it

is

the summit,
of leaves

fruit of this

and when

ripe

exceedingly rich per-

very stringy, and, although

by the natives, it is beyond the teeth of

European. The Arabs cut it into slices, and boil

eaten

a
it

Subwith water until they obtain a strong syrup.

sequently I found this palm in great quantities near
the equator.

At Abou Harraz
endeavoured

to

Khartoum, thus

discharged my camels, and

engage a boat to convey us to
I

to avoid the dusty

and uninteresting

upwards of a hundred miles along its flat

and melancholy banks; but there was not a vessel

ride of

of

any kind

to be

miserable, dirty

seen upon the river, except one

affair, for

which the owner demanded

fourteen hundred piastres for a passage.

"We accord-

RUFAAR AND THE ARAB

CHAP, xxii.]

march

as-

started,

551
to

intending

rapidly as possible.

"June

"We packed the camels in the

1862.

2,

and

morning

and

camels,

ingly procured

SHEIK.

them

started

off

to

P.M. as the natives declared it

followed at 2.30

half a day's journey

we

but

We

Kufaar.

was

did not arrive until

8.30 P.M.

having marched about twenty-one miles.

The town

is

considerable,

and

is

of our old friend, the great Sheik

the head-quarters

Achmet Abou Sinn

home.

He

received us very kindly, and lodged us in his

own

he

is

now

absent, but his son Ali

is

at

house within a large inclosed court, with a well of

good water in the centre. Having read my firman,

he paid us the usual compliments, but he lacked the

calm dignity and ease of manner of his grand old

He

father.

sat

upon the divan, occasionally

stiffly

the monotony

of

his

position by lifting
and
spitting beneath it.
up the cover of the cushions,
Not having a handkerchief, but only the limited

relieving

natural advantages of a finger and thumb, a cold in

him much

the head gave

marks

upon

the

wall

trouble,

exhibited

and unpleasant
hieroglyphics

of

adapted to the receptionroom of an Arab chieftain. In about an hour he

recent date, that were

ill

of
departed, and shortly after, a dinner was brought
four dishes.

No.

was an Arab

minus the potatoes

the mutton was fat
;

no Irish element

and rather dry

it
;

Irish stew, but alas

was very good, nevertheless, as

No. 2 was an Arab stew, with

was very hot with red pepper,

No. 3 was a good quick fry of small

it

THE BLUE

552
pieces of

and No.

mutton
4

in butter

was an

NILE.

and

[CHAP. xxn.

(very good)

garlic

excellent dish of the usual melach,

already described.

The wind had within the

few days changed

last

and we had been subjected to dust storms

sudden whirlwinds similar to those we had

to south,

and

experienced at this season on the preceding year,

when about

to start

from Berber.

"We

left

Kufaar,

and continued our march along the banks of the

Blue Nile, towards Khartoum. It was intensely hot
whenever we felt a breeze it was accompanied with
;

a suffocating dust, but the sight of the broad river

was

cool

and

During the dry season the

refreshing.

water of the Blue Nile

is

clear, as its

reflects the colour of the blue

but at that time

lation,

and

in

many

about three

places

it

is

it

sky
is

hence the appel-

extremely

fordable

which renders

feet,

broad surface

it

at

shallow,

depth of

unnavigable for

toum

which, laden with corn, supply Kharfrom the fertile provinces of the south. The

river

had now begun

large

boats,

low, and the

torrents

of

It

was

at this

was

still

was influenced by the

when

same time

into
last

the

year

that we had noticed the sudden

and equally sudden

at a time

it

Abyssinia brought impurities

at Berber,

increase

although

water was muddy, as the swelling

main channel.

when

to rise,

fall

of the Nile, that

fluctuations of the Blue Nile,

the Atbara was dry.

From Abou Harraz throughout the

toum there is no object of interest;

route to Kharit

is

the same

THE VEEY GENTLEMANLY FAKY.

CHAP, xxii.]

vast

flat,

with the

mingles

journey to the

and

behind,

desert

north,

enter

barren plains,

we

upon

in

fertility

until

and once more,

the

leave

we

lands

fertile

The

sterility.

as

it

glare

of

and the heat of the summer's sun

Bacheet had a slight coup de soleil ;

Tokrooris, whose woolly heads were shaved, and

were

my

rapidly

decreasing

553

fearful.

simply covered with a thin skull-cap, suffered severely, as we marched throughout the burning hours
of the day.
as

pitable,

The Arabs were generally very inhosthis was the route frequented by all

native merchants, where strangers were of dai]y oc-

currence

but towards

we

arrived

at

inhabited by a large

body of Fakeers, or
we were met by the prin-

village

As we entered,
Faky, who received us with marked

priests.

cipal

evening

attention,

and with a charming courtesy of manner that quite

won

our hearts

at our arrival,
heat,

he expressed himself as delighted

hoped we were not fatigued by the
;

and trusted that we would

rest

for

a few

minutes before we departed to the enchanting village

"just beyond those trees," as he pointed to a clump
of green nabbuk on the yellow plain, about a mile
distant

there,

he assured

us,

we

could obtain

all

kinds of supplies, together with shade, and a lovely

view of the river. We were delighted with this

very gentlemanly Faky, and, saying adieu with regret, we hurried on to the promising village "just

beyond those trees."

For fourteen miles we travelled hungry and

tired

EUG ULARLY

554

"

SOLD:'

beyond the alluring clump of

[CHAP. xxii.

trees,

along the wild

desert of hot sand without a habitation

the only

portion of truth in the Faky's description

was the

"lovely view of the river," that certainly accompanied us throughout our journey. We were regu"
"
sold
larly
by the cunning Faky, who, not wishing
to be

incommoded with our

party,

had got

rid

of

At length we
where we had much difficulty

us in a most gentlemanly manner.

arrived at a village,

in procuring provisions for ourselves

On

and

people.

the llth June, having slept at the village of

Abou Dome, we started at

we reached the bank of
Khartoum.

sunrise,

the

and at

river,

A.M.

to

opposite

We

were delighted with the view, as

the morning sun shone upon the capital of the
the groves of date trees shaded
Soudan provinces
;

the numerous buildings, contrasting exquisitely their

dark green foliage with the many coloured houses

on the extreme margin of the beautiful river ; long
lines of vessels

and we

felt

and masts gave

that

of utterly wild

once more,

life,

we had

life

to

the

after twelve

scene,

months

arrived in civilization.

We

had outridden our camels,

through a shallow arm of the

therefore
river,

we

rode

and arrived

upon an extensive sandbank that had been converted

from

this point, a large

ferry-boat plied regularly to the

town on the south

into a garden of melons

bank.

In a few minutes

we found

ourselves

on

board, with our sole remaining horse, Tetel, also the

donkeys that we had

purchased in Berber before

ARRIVAL AT KHARTOUM.

CHAP, xxn.]

555

As we gained

our expedition, and our attendants.

of the river, that was about

the centre
broad,

we were

greeted

by the

old friends, the hippopotami,

800 yards

snort of three of our

who had been

attracted

to the neighbourhood

We

landed at
bank,

steep

by the garden of water-melons.

Khartoum, and, having climbed up the

we

inquired the

way

to

the

British

Consulate.

The

between the view of Khartoum at

difference

the distance of a mile, with the sun shining

the

Nile

river

bright

in

the

foreground,

upon

to

the

appearance of the town upon close inspection, was

about equal to the scenery of a theatre as regarded
from the boxes or from the stage ; even that painful exposure of

an optical

compared

with the

nuisances,

when we

illusion

would be

trifling

Khartoum

the
imposture
sense of sight had been deceived by distance, but
the sense of smell was outraged by innumerable

miserable town.

dusty lanes,
bricks,

that

of

set

the filthy and

After winding through some narrow

hemmed
had

foot within

in

fallen

by high walls
in

gaps in

of sunbaked

several places,

exposing gardens of prickly pears and date palms,

we at length arrived at a large open place, that,
if

more strongly than the landing

Around this square, which was full of holes

possible, smelt

spot.

where the
were

the

mud had
better

been excavated for brickmaking,

class

Belgravia of Khartoum.

mud

of

houses

this

was the

In the centre of a long

wall, ventilated by certain attempts at frame-

THE BRITISH

556

LION.

[CHAP. xxn.

windows, guarded by rougli wooden bars, we

perceived a large archway with closed doors; above
less

this

entrance

was a

shield,

my

gladdened

English eyes
lion and the unicorn
Not

with

a device

was the

there

that

British

such a lion as

had

been accustomed to meet in his native jungles, a

yellow cowardly fellow, that had often slunk away

from the very prey from which I had driven him,

but a real red British lion, that although thin and
ragged in the unhealthy climate of Khartoum, looked
as though he was pluck to the backbone.
This was the
lion

English Consulate.

and unicorn

veneration,

for a

regarded our

few moments with feelings of

and as Mr. Petherick the

was then absent on the White Nile

consul,

in search of

who
Speke

and Grant, had very kindly begged me to occupy

some rooms in the Consulate, we entered a large courtyard, and were immediately received

that came to meet us

an impromptu race

by two

these birds entertained us

as hard as they could go

by
round the

court yard, as though performing in a circus.

this little divertissement

the right, and were

steps into a large

ostriches

was

finished,

When

we turned

to

shown by a servant up a flight of

airy room that was to be our resi-

dence, which, being well protected from the sun, was

cool

and

Khartoum

agreeable.

Mr. Petherick had started from

in the preceding March,

and had expected

meet Speke and Grant in the upper portion of the

Nile regions, on their road from Zanzibar, but there

to

are insurmountable difficulties in those wild countries,

THE ZOOLOGICAL COLLECTION.

CHAP, xxii.]

and
in

met with unforeseen

his expedition

55J

accidents, that,

spite of the exertions of both himself,

his very

devoted wife, Dr. Murie, and two or three Europeans,

drove them from their intended path.
Shortly after
our arrival at the Consulate, a vessel returned from his
party with unfavourable accounts
too late in the season,

owing

they had started

some

to

difficulties in

procuring boats, and the change of the wind to the

south, with violent rain, had caused great suffering,

and had retarded

their progress.

This same boat had

brought two leopards that were to be sent to England

these animals were led into the courtyard, and, having
been secured by chains, they formed a valuable addi:

tion to the managerie,

which consisted of two wild

two leopards, one hyaena, two

boars,

eynoceplialus or dog-faced baboon,

by taking an

especial fancy to

and a

ostriches,

who won my

me, because

heart

had a

beard like his master.

Although
I

confess

Zoological

turned

to

take a great interest in wild animals,.

have an

Gardens should
I

loose.

Secretary

of that

do

all

not

sleep

the wild

believe

that

the

in

be

beasts

even

the

Society would volunteer

learned

to sleep with the lions

to

objection

but as the leopards at the

Khartoum Consulate constantly broke their .chains,
;

and attacked the dogs and a cow, and as the hysena

occasionally got loose, and the wild boars destroyed
their
rooris

mud

wall,

during

and nearly

the

night,

scored leg of pork with

killed one

by
their

carving
tusks,

of

my

him
the

Tok-

like

fact

a,

of

OSTRICHES INVITE THEMSELVES TO TEA.

558

[CHAP, xxir

sleeping in the open air in the verandah, with the

simple protection of a mosquito-netting, was

pleasant excitement, and was a piquante

ment

that

prevented

reaction

full of

entertain-

ennui

of

after

twelve months passed in constant watchfulness. The

shield over the Consulate door, with the lion and
the unicorn, was but a sign of the

within

life

the grand picture outside the showman's

wagon may

exemplify the nature of his exhibition.

myself

when

with

extremely

the

these

invited

ostriches

as

creatures,

enjoyed

especially

themselves to

tea,

and

water-melons and the greater

portion of the bread from the table a few moments

swallowed our

before

enjoy

slices of

we were
life

seated

amazingly

these

birds

appeared to

one kind of food was as sweet

they attacked a basket of white porcelain beads that had been returned by Mr. Petherick's
as another

men,

and swallowed them in

great

numbers in

mistake for dhurra, until they were driven off; they

were the scavengers of the courtyard, that con-

sumed the dung

with

all

of the camels

and

horses, together

other impurities.

For some months we resided at Khartoum, as it

was necessary to make extensive preparations for the

White Nile expedition, and to await the

the north wind, which would enable us to

arrival of
start early

Although the north and south winds

blow alternately for six months, and the former comin December.

mences in October,

it

does not extend

many

southward until the beginning of December.

degrees

This

is

CHAP, xxn.]

/ INTERCEDE FOR

MEK NIMMUR.

559

a great drawback to White Nile exploration, as when

near the north side of the equator, the dry season

November, and closes in February

thus, the departure from Khartoum should take place

commences

by

in

a steamer in the latter part of September;

would enable the

traveller to leave

before

shortly

54',

secure

three

Gondokoro,

November;

tlia

lat.

N.

he would then

months of favourable weather

for

an

advance inland.

Having promised Mek Nimmur that

would lay

his proposals for peace before the Governor- General of

the Soudan, I called

upon Moosa Pasha

divan, and delivered the message

at the public

but he would not

any intercession, as he assured me that Mek

Nimmur was incorrigible, and there would be no ,real

listen to

peace until his death, which would be very speedy

He expressed
should he chance to fall into his hands.
great surprise at our having escaped from his territory,
and he declared his intention of attacking him after he

should have given the Abyssinians a lesson, for

whom

he was preparing an expedition in reply to an insolent

letter that he had received from King Theodore.
The

King

of Abyssinia

of frontier.

had written

him upon a question

the document was a

to

The substance of

declaration that, the Egyptians

had no right

to

Khar-

toum, and that the natural boundary of Abyssinia was

the junction of the Blue and White Niles as far north

Shendy (Mek Nimmur' s

from that point, in a direct

line, to the Atbara, but

that, as the desert afforded

no landmark, he should

as

original country)

and

KING THEODORE'S ULTIMATUM.

560

[CHAP.

xxu.

send his people to dig a ditcli from the Nile to the

Atbara, and he requested that the Egyptians would
keep upon the north border. Moosa Pasha declared
that the king was mad, and that, were it not for the
protection given to Abyssinia by the English, the

Egyptians would have eaten

it

ago, but that

up long

the Christian powers would certainly interfere should

they attempt to annex the country.

The Egyptians seldom had less than twenty thou-

sand troops in the Soudan provinces the principal

Casstations were Khartoum, Cassala, and Dongola.
;

sala

from

Ked

was

close to the Abyssinian frontier,

and within

twenty days' march of Souakim, on the

fifteen to

Sea, to which, reinforcements could be despatched

in five days from Cairo.

Khartoum had the advan-

tage of the Blue Nile, that was navigable for steamers.

and sailing vessels as far south as Fazogle, from which
spot,

as well as

invaded

from Gallabat, Abyssinia could be

while swarms of Arabs, including the cele-

brated Hamrans, the Beni Amer, Hallongas, Haden-

dowas, Shookeriahs, and Dabainas, could be slipped

like

greyhounds across the

entirely at the

Moosa Pasha
thousand

men

mercy

Abyssinia is

frontier.

of Egypt.

subsequently

with

started

to drive the Abyssinians

from

several

Gallabat,.

which position they had occupied in force with the

avowed intention of marching upon Khartoum but
;

upon

the approach of the Egyptians, they

rapidly

showing

across
fight.

the

mountains,

without

The Egyptians would

fell

not

back

sign

of

follow

CLIMATE OF THE SOUDAN.

CHAP. xxit.J

561

them, as they feared the intervention of the European

powers.

Khartoum, from llth

June until early in October, the heat was very oppressive, the thermometer seldom below 95 Fahr. in
our

Upon

first arrival

in

the shade, and frequently 100, while the nights were

In the winter, the temperature was agreeBut the

able, the shade 80, the night 62 Fahr.

82 Fahr.

north wind was exceedingly dangerous, as the sudden gusts checked the perspiration,
chilliness of the

and produced various maladies, more especially fever.

I had been extremely fortunate, as, although exposed

work

to hard

sun, I

for

more than a year

had remarkably good

in the burning

health, as

had

my

wife

with the exception of one severe attack

while at Sofi.
Throughout the countries we had
likewise,

the temperature was high, averaging about

visited,

the shade from

end of September
but the nights were generally about 70
with the exception of the winter months, from
90

in

May

until the

November
generally
as

until

fell

February,

to 85

when

the

thermometer

Fahr. in the day, and sometimes

low as 58 at between 2 and 5 A.M.

not repeat a minute description of Khartoum that has already been given in the "Albert
"
it is a wretchedly unhealthy town, conN'yan^a
I shall

taining about thirty thousand inhabitants, exclusive

of troops.
In spite of its unhealthiness and low situation,

on a level with the river at the junction of the

Blue and White Niles,

it is

the general emporium for

o o

PRODUCTIONS OF THE SOUDAN.

562

[CHAP.

XXH.

the trade of the Soudan, from which the productions

Lower Egypt, i. e.
senna, gum arabic, and bees'-wax.
ivory, hides,
During my experience of Khartoum it was the hotbed
of the country are transported to

of the slave-trade.

It will be

ports

from the Soudan are

There

is

remarked that the exnatural productions.

all

nothing to exhibit the industry or capacity of

he natives ; the ivory is the produce of violence and

robbery

cxen

gum

the hides are the simple sun-dried skins of

the senna grows wild upon the desert

the

arabic exudes spontaneously from the bushes of

the jungle; and the bees'-wax

is

the produce of the

only industrious creatures in that detestable country.

When we regard the general aspect of the Soudan,
it

is

and

extreme wretchedness
scanty, thus

upon

entirely

the rainfall

the country

irrigation.

is

is

uncertain

a desert, dependent

Although cultivation is sim-

ply impossible without a supply of water, one of the

most onerous taxes is that upon the sageer or waterwheel,

with which the

borders of the Nile.

It

fields

are

irrigated

on the

would appear natural

that,

premium should be offered for the

such means of irrigation, which would

instead of a tax, a
erection

of

increase the revenue

by extending cultivation, the

produce of which might bear an impost. With all the
talent and industry of the native Egyptians, who must
naturally depend upon the waters of the Nile for their
existence,

it

is

extraordinary that for thousands of

years they have adhered to their original simple form

of mechanical irrigation, without improvement.

THE SAGEER OR WATER-WLLEEL.

CIIAP. xxii.J

If

any one

will take the trouble to

of the sagecr or water-wheel,

most puny

it

563

watch the action

must

strike

him

as a

obtain a great result, that would

effort to

at once suggest an extension of the principle.

The

merely a wheel of about twenty feet

diameter, which is furnished with numerous earthensageer

is

ware jars upon

its

exterior circumference, that,

upon
revolving, perform the action of a dredger, but draw
to the surface, water instead of mud. The wheel, being
turned by oxen, delivers the water into a trough which
passes into a reservoir, roughly fashioned with clay,

from which, small channels of about ten inches in

width,

radiate

The

through the plantation.

fields,

divided into squares like a chess-board, are thus

gated by a succession of minute aqueducts.

of this principle

is

volume of water

is

the reservoir.

irri-

The root

certain steady

required, from which the arteries

shall flow throughout a large area of

dry ground thus,

the reservoir insures a regular supply to each separate
;

channel.

In any civilized country, the existence of which

depended upon the

artificial

supply of water in the

engineering principle would

suggest a saving of labour in irrigation that, instead
of raising the water in small quantities into reservoirs,

absence of rain, the

first

the river should raise

its

own

waters to the required

level.

Having
the

visited every tributary of the Nile during

explorations

of nearly

five

years,

have been

struck with the extraordinary fact that, although an

oo2

UNCONTROLLED ACTION OF THE

564

enormous amount of wealth

NILE.

[CHAP.

xxn.

conveyed to Egypt by

is

the annual inundations of the river, the force of the

stream
rial,

is

From time immemo-

entirely uncontrolled.

the rise of the Nile has been watched with intense

but no attempt has been

made to insure a supply of water to Egypt during all

interest at the usual season,

seasons.

The mystery of the Nile has been

dispelled;

we

have proved that the equatorial lakes supply the

main stream, but that, the inundations are caused by
the sudden rush of waters from the torrents of Abys-

August, and September and that the

washed down by the floods of the Atbara is at the

sinia in July,
soil

present moment silting up the mouths of the Nile, and

thus slowly, but steadily, forming a delta beneath the

waters of the Mediterranean, on the same principle
that created the fertile Delta of

water and
perform,

the

mud

of

the

the water to irrigate

Egypt.

Both the

Nile have duties to

;

the deposit to fer-

but these duties are not regularly performed,

sometimes the rush of the inundation is overwhelming,
tilize

at

others

it

is

insufficient

immense proportion

of

the

times an

while at

all

fertilizing

mud

is

not

only wasted by a deposit beneath the sea, but naThe Nile is a

vigation is impeded by the silt.

powerful horse without harness, but, with a bridle

in its mouth, the fertility of Egypt might be increased
to a vast extent.

As

the supply of water raised

received in a reservoir,

by the

sageer

is

from which the irrigating

SUGGESTIONS FOR IRRIGATION.

CHAP, xxii.]

565

channels radiate through the plantations, so should

formed throughout the varying

levels of Egypt, from Khartoum to the Mediterranean,
great reservoirs be

comprising a distance of sixteen degrees of latitude,

with a fall of fifteen hundred feet. The advantage
of this great difference in altitude between the Nile
in

latitude

amount

raise

of

of

series

15

its

30',

and the

by

irrigation,

sea,

the

would enable any

establishment

dams

or weirs across the Nile, that

level

to

the

required

degree,

at

of

would
certain

from which the water would be led by canals

these would form reservoirs,
into natural depressions
points,

from which the water might be led upon a vast

scale, in

a similar

manner

to the insignificant

mud

basins that at the present day form the reservoirs for

the feeble water-wheels.

level

The

increase of the river's

would depend upon the height of the dams

but, as

stone

is

engineering difficulties would be

Mehemet

plentiful throughout the Nile, the

trifling,

Ali Pasha acknowledged the principle,

by

the erection of the barrage between Cairo and Alexandria, which,

by simply

raising the level of the river,

enabled the people to extend their channels for irrigation ; but this was the crude idea, that has not

been carried out upon a scale commensurate with the

requirements of Egypt. The ancient Egyptians made
use of the lake Mareotis as a reservoir for the Nile
waters for the irrigation of a large extent of Lower

Egypt, by taking advantage of a high Nile to secure

a supply for the remainder of the year
but, great
;

FORMATION OF A DELTA BY

566

SCIENCE.

[CHAP.

XXH.

as were the

works of those industrious people, they

appear to have ignored the first principle of irriga-

tion,

by neglecting

Egypt remains

to raise the level of the river.

same position that nature

in the

originally allotted to her

the life-giving stream that

through a thousand miles of burning sands,

suddenly rises in July, and floods thr Delta which it

flows

has formed by a deposit, during perhaps hundreds of

thousands of similar inundations
and it wastes a
;

superabundance of
Mediterranean.

fertilizing

mud

in the waters of the

As nature has thus formed, and

is

forming a delta, why should not science create

a delta, with the powerful means at our disposal ?

still

Why

should not the

mud

up the Mediterranean, be
vast area of deserts, that

of the Nile, that

now

silts

directed to the barren but

by such a

deposit

would be-

Egypt ? This, work might be

accomplished by simple means the waters of the Nile,

come a

fertile

portion of

that

now

rush impetuously at

overwhelming

certain seasons with

violence, while at other seasons they are

exhausted, might be so controlled that they should

never be in excess, neither would they be reduced to a

minimum in the dry season ; but the enormous volume

of water heavily charged with soil, that now rushes

uselessly into the sea, might be led throughout the

Nubia and Libya, to transform them into

cotton fields that would render England independent

deserts of

of America,

There

is

no

fiction in

this idea

it

is

merely the simple and commonplace fact, that with a

fall of fifteen hundred feet in a thousand miles, with a

A SERIES OF WEIRS UPON THE

CHAP, xxii.]

river that supplies

mud

NILE.

56/

an unlimited quantity of water and

at a particular season, a supply could be afforded

to a prodigious area, that

would be

fertilized

not only

but by the annual deposit of soil from

the water, allowed to remain upon the surface.
This

by

irrigation,

suggestion might be carried out by gradations

great

work might be commenced by a

above the

first

the

single

dam

cataract at Assouan, at a spot where

walled in by granite hills at that place,

the water could be raised to an exceedingly high level,
the river

is

that would

As

command an immense

tract of country.

dams might
that would not

the system became developed, similar

be constructed at convenient intervals,

only bring into cultivation the neighbouring deserts,

but would facilitate the navigation of the river, that

now impeded, and frequently closed, by

rous cataracts. By raising the level of the
is

the

nume-

Nile sixty

dam, the cataracts would no longer exist,

as the rocks which at present form the obstructions,

feet at every

would be buried

in the depths of the river.

At

the

positions of the several dams, sluice gates and canals

would conduct the shipping

stream.

Were

last cataracts,

either

up

or

down

the

this principle carried out as far as the

near Khartoum, the Soudan would no

longer remain a desert

the Nile would become not

only the cultivator of those immense tracts that are

now utterly worthless, but it would be the navigable

channel of Egypt for the extraordinary distance of

twenty-seven degrees of

latitude

Mediterranean to Gondokoro, N.

lat.

direct
4

54'.

from

the

THE BENEFITS TO CUTLIZATION.

568

The

benefits,

of Africa

although,

we

xxn.

not only to Egypt, but to civilization,

would be incalculable
interior

[CHAP.

those remote countries in the

are

so

difficult

that,

hope that at some future

cling to the

time the inhabitants

of access,

may become

enlightened,

it

will

be simply impossible to alter their present condition,

we change the natural^conditions under which

they exist. From a combination of adverse circumunless

from the

stances, they are excluded

the geographical position of those

civilized

world

desert-locked and

remote countries shuts them out from personal communication with strangers
the hardy explorer and
:

the missionary creep through the difficulties of dis-

tance in their onward paths, but seldom return

European merchant

the

rarely seen, and trade resolves

is

robbery and piracy upon the White Nile,

and other countries, where distance and difficulty of

itself into

access have excluded all

lance.

Nevertheless,

laws and political surveil-

throughout

that

desert,

and

neglected wilderness, the Nile has flowed for ages, and

the people upon its banks are as wild and uncivilized
at the present

were raised in

day as they were when the pyramids

Lower Egypt. The Nile is a blessing

the time will arrive when

only half appreciated
people will look in amazement upon a mighty Egypt,
;

whose waving crops

horizon,

now

extend, far beyond

upon those sandy and

only the camel

nature.

shall

Men

can

will look

thirsty deserts

contend with

down from some

the

where

exhausted
lofty point

upon a network of canals and reservoirs, spreading

ANCIENT IRRIGATION IN CEYLON.

CHAP, xxii.]

throughout a land teeming with

how

was, that, for so

it

many

569

fertility,

and wonder

ages, the

majesty of

Not only the

the Nile had been concealed.

sources

of that wonderful river have been a mystery from

the earliest history of the world, but the resources

and the power of the mighty Nile are

and misunderstood.
In
first

all rainless

countries, artificial

law of nature,

it

is

still

mysterious

irrigation is the

self-preservation

but,

in countries where the rainfall can be depended

even

upon

with tolerable certainty, irrigation should never be

neglected one dry season in a tropical country may
;

produce a famine, the results of which

as instanced lately

ficial irrigation

be

terrible,

by the unfortunate calamity in

The remains of the

Orissa.

may

beautiful system of arti-

that was employed

by the ancients

in

Ceylon, attest the degree of civilization to which they

had attained

in that island, the

waters of various

were conducted into valleys that were

rivers

verted into lakes, by

dams

con-

of solid

masonry that
closed the extremity, from which the water was conducted by artificial channels throughout the land.
In those days, Ceylon was the most fertile country
of

the

vast

east

cities

her power equalled

her prosperity

teeming with a dense population stood

and the

upon the borders of the great

people revelled in wealth and

plenty.

were destroyed in

the wonderful works

civil

warfare

reservoirs,

of irrigation shared in the destruction

dried

up

dams

The

the

country

famine swallowed up the population

and

INDUSTRIOUS POPULATION OF EGYPT.

570

[CHAP,

xxn,

grandeur and prosperity of that extraordinary

country collapsed and withered in the scorching sun,
when the supply of water was withdrawn.
the

At
lie

moment, ten thousand square miles

thorny jungles, where formerly a sea

the present

desolate in

of

waving

are dead, the glory

people

had been the

is

of

but in
people,

the

surface

departed.

fruit of irrigation.

might be restored
annihilation

on

floated

rice-crops

the

This glory

All this prosperity

Egypt there has been no

and the Nile invites a

renewal of the system formerly adopted in Ceylon

an industrious population crowded upon a

limited space of fertile soil, and yearning for an
there

is

increase of surface.

At the commencement

of this

work, we saw the Egyptians boating the earth from

the crumbling ruins, and transporting it with arduous
labour to spread upon the barren sandbanks of the

they were striving

for every foot of land thus offered by the exhausted
Nile, left

by the

retreating river

and turning into gardens what in other

countries would have been unworthy of cultivation.
waters,

Were

a system

of irrigation

upon the
principle that I have proposed, the advantages would
be enormous. The silt deposited in the Mediterranean,

now

that

up

established

chokes the mouths of the Nile, and blocks

harbours, would be precipitated

upon the broad

by the time that

would have been fil-

area of newly-irrigated lands, and,

the water arrived at the sea,

tered

in

its

and have become incapable

The great difficulty of
deposit.

passage,

of forming a fresh

it

CAPABILITIES FOR

CHAP. xxii.J

the

Suez canal will be the

by the Nile

trance

the

PROD UCING

mud

COTTON.

57 1

up of the en-

silting

would be prevented were

this

deposited in the upper country.

During the

war

civil

in America,

her capabilities by producing a large

Egypt proved
amount of cotton

of most excellent quality, that assisted us materially

in

the great dearth of that article

large fortunes were realized

but,

although

by the extension

of this

branch of agriculture, the Egyptians suffered con-

The area

siderably in consequence.

was too

of

fertile

soil

an unusual surface was de-

limited, and, as

voted to the growth of cotton, there was a deficiency

in the production of corn
and Egypt, instead of ex;

porting as

was forced

heretofore,

quantities of

Were

grain.

creased to a vast extent

the

to

import large

area of

in-

Egypt

by the proposed system

-of

would be space sufficient for both

cotton to any amount required.
The

irrigation, there

grain

and

desert

soil,

that

is

now

utterly worthless,

come of

great

increased

produce would

value

and

the

would be-

taxes

upon

not only cover the

the
first

outlay of the irrigation works, but would increase

the revenue in the ratio proportionate to the increased
surface of fertility.
irrigate

dam

across the Atbara

would

the entire country from Gozeragup to Ber-

and the
upwards of 200 miles
same system upon the Nile would carry the waters
throughout the deserts between Khartoum and Don-

ber, a distance of

and from thence to Lower Egypt. The Nubian

desert, from Korosko to Abou Hamed, would become a

gola,

THE GREAT SAHARA.

572

garden, the whole of that

xxn.

[CHAP.

country inclosed within

sterile

the great western bend of the Nile towards Dongola

would be embraced

in the system of

now

the barren sands that

give birth to the bitter

melon of the desert (Cucumis

forth

bring
f

the

receives no rainfall

it

is

only water, and the

sand will combine with the richer

could

beneath, and

soil

England would become a

become productive.

of

simply because

desert,
it

give

would

colocynthis),

and heavy crops

water-melon,

The great Sahara

grain.

and

irrigation,

desert,

he deprived of rain for three or four years

the vegetation would wither and be carried away
it

by the wind, together with the

the

friable portions of

soil,

lighter

and more

which, reduced to dust,

wou!4 leave the coarser and more sandy

expqseci upon the surface

particles

but the renewal of rain

would revivify the country.

The deserts of Egypt
have never known rain, except in the form of an
unexpected shower, that has passed away as suddenly
as it arrived
even that slight blessing awakens
;

and green things

ever-ready nature,

the yellow
*

The

of

surface

the ground,

Nubian

N.

lat.,

bottom of the Mediterranean, but

have been upheaved to their present

discovered in the

upon

that cause the

great deserts of Northern Africa to about the 17

are supposed to have formed the

to

appear

level.

The

volcanic

bombs

by their spherical form,

by active volcanos had fallen from a
that had rapidly cooled them ; in the same
Desert, suggest

that the molten lava ejected

great height into water,

manner

that lead shot

is

manufactured

at the present day.

in the

Nubian Desert were

volcanic islands in a sea

active at a period

It is

now in existence
when they formed

therefore highly probable that the extinct craters

similar to Stromboli, &c. &s.

THE RACE OF

CHAP, xxii.]

wonder how

traveller to

after the exposure for so

LIFE.

their seeds could germinate

many months

Give water to these thirsty

will reply with gratitude.
sand.

This

the

is

alter the

will

man

rendered
soil

way

if

he

is

give

and they

the engineer

hard conditions of nature, that have

good works as the sterile

Let man have hope
im-

as barren of
lives.

prove the present, that his

;

in the burning

deserts,

to civilize a country

upon which he

a future

573

him

mind may look forward

to

a horse that will answer to the spur

to run in the race of life

give

him a

soil

that

and tempt him to industry give him the

means of communication with his fellow-men, that he
will yield

may

own

see his

channels for
receipt

by comparison provide
the transport of his produce, and for the
inferiority

of foreign manufactures, that will engender

commerce

and then, when he has advanced

the scale of humanity, you

him the
till

principles

then, can

may

endeavour to teach

of Christianity.

we hope

for

so far in

Then, and not

We

moral progress.

must

begin with the development of the physical capabilities

of a country before we can expect from its inhabitants

mental vigour to receive and understand the

truths of our religion.
I have met with many Chrissufficient

tian

missionaries, of various

who have
upon

fruitlessly

and

conflicting creeds,

sown the seed of

the barren soil of Africa

Christianity

but their labours were

ill-timed, they were too early in the field, the soil is

unprepared; the missionary, however earnest, must

wait until there be

some foundation

for

super-

PREPARATIONS FOR DISCOVERY.

574

[CHAP.

xxn.

Eaise the level of the waters, and change

the character of the surrounding deserts
this will
structure.

also raise the intellectual condition of the inhabitants

by an improvement

in the natural conditions of their

country

The

had

first

We

portion of our task was completed.

visited all the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia, in-

cluding the great Blue Nile that had been traced to

its source

us

The

by Bruce.

to penetrate the

south, to discover the

Grant were on

difficult

unknown

lay before

still

regions in the distant

White Nile

Speke and

source.*

from Zanzibar, cutting their

ground towards Gondokoro.

their road

way upon untrodden

Petherick's expedition to assist

misfortune,

task

and we trusted

them had met with

to be able to reach the

equator, and perhaps to meet our Zanzibar explorers

somewhere about the sources of the

Nile.

we had worked hard throughout all

immense extent of country, we were

both strong and

well,

and the

rest of

some months

Although
seasons, over an

at

Khartoum had

only served to inspire us with new vigour for the

commencement

of the

work

before us.

By

the

7th

December, 1862, our preparations were completed;

three vessels were laden with large quantities of
stores

400 bushels of corn, twenty-nine transport

The account

White Nile

voyage, with the happy meeting

of Captains Speke and Grant, and the subsequent discovery of the
"Albert JSTyanza," has been already given in the work of that
title.

of the

CHAP. xxii.J

FAREWELL TO CIVILIZATION.

575

animals, including camels, donkeys, and horses (among

the latter was

formed

my

old hunter Tetel).

Ninety-six souls

whole party, including forty well-armed

On the
men, with Joliann Schmidt and Eicharn.
18th December we sailed from Khartoum upon the

my

AVhite Nile towards

its

unknown

and bade

sources,

farewell to the last vestige of law, government,

civilization.

find

in

my

journal, the

written at our departure upon this

"God
fear."

grant us

success;

if

He

last

and

words

uncertain task,

guides,

have no

INDEX.

PP

INDEX.
fairly quitted by the
on arrival at Kahad river,
524 protected from Egyptians by
the English, 560
at the mercy of

termined, 512

traveller

ABDEKACHMAN, Tokroori

servant,

in-

tended pilgrimage of, to Mecca, 850,

352
of,
gratitude and affection
;

352.

Abdoolahi, Tokroori attendant, accident

to, caused by rashness while riding
a camel, and narrow escape of, 471.
Abdul Azziz Company, steamers of, 72.
father of Abou Do Koussoul,
singular and picturesque appearance
of,
296, 333
hippopotamus hurpooued by, 336 fit seq.
Abou Dome, village on the route to
Khartoum, 554.
Abou Do Roussoul, nephew of Sheik

Abou Do,
'

Owat, Hamran Arab, splendid appearance of, 281 joins Sir S. Baker's
jealousy of,
hunting party, 281
354 covetousness of, 402 dismissed
from the party, ib. ; breaks a promise, 407, 408
caught in the act,
;

408

disappointed in his prize, 409.

arrival at, 14
bath
at, 15; start from, 16; route from,
along the Nile, ib.
Abou Harraz, village on the banks of
the Blue Nile, miserable appearance
;

Abou Hammed,

Egypt, ib.
Acacia Arabica, Soorit, fruit of, used
fallen trees of, obfor tanning, 180
structions on the Dinder river, 529.
Achniet, relative of Mahomet the
dragoman, chosen by him as servant,
84 bitten by a scorpion, 104 theft
last heard of,
by, and flight of, 207
;

426, note.

Adansonia

homera

diyitata,

355

tree,

gi-

halt beneath, for

gantic size

of,

shelter, ib.

hollow
fruit of, 356
sometimes used as a re-

trunk

of,

servoir for water,

ib.

Agates found in the desert, 59.

Aggageers, 167 famed elephant swordhunters, 171
party of, join Sir S.
Baker, 281 appearance of, on starting
lor the hunt, 297, 319
bloody intentions of, towards the Base tribe, 377 ;
their wonderful knowledge of the
lame the horses by
country, 320
reckless riding, 402 (see Ilamran
;

Arabs).

large village passed by the

halt near, on account
explorers, 68
of Lady Baker's renewed attack of

Aggahr, name given to one of Sir S.

Baker's horses, purchase of, 242 ;
accident with, while hunting, 480
alarm of Lady
search for, 480, 481
Baker, caused by return of, without
death of, 521.
his rider, 482
Ali, son of Sheik Achmet Abou Sinn,
reception of Sir S. Baker by, at Rui'aar, 551
unpleasant manners of, ib.

fever, ib.

Allatakoora

547

arrival

ib.

turning
point on the road from Katariff to
Khartoum, ib. attempt to obtain a
boat at, to sail up Blue Nile, 550 ;
of,

at,

start from, 551.

Abre,

Abrey, food used by nomadic

537 fine quality of, 538.

Arabs,

Abyssinia, mountain ranges of, 306,

334, 400, 476 ; rivers of, 280 ; peculiar character of all rivers of, 549 ;

"market

of,

524.

Abyssinian Alps, 334, 476.

Abyssinian territory, frontier

of,

unde-

hill,

great height

of,

399.

Ainbatch wood (Anemone mirabilis),

extreme lightness of, 176, 333 ; raft
made of, 176
float or buoy of,
fastened to the harpoon for hippo;

potamus hunting, 333.

Amulets, moustaches of lions worn as,
supposed protection from wild animals, 423.

P P 2

INDEX.

580
Ancient

forts, vestiges
side of the Nile, 2.

of,

on either

Augarep, Arab bedstead, present of,

from Achmet Wat el Negur, 285
comfort of, in a warm climate, 182.

river, tributary of the Nile,

intention of Sir S. Baker to explore,
obtained from Mek
assistance
280
Ninimur in exploring, 459 arrival
at, 466
tracing the course of, from a
high rock, 466 junction of, with the

Angrab
;

Salaam, 467 extraordinary appearance of, at the mouth, ib.

example
of the destructive effect of water on
rocks, 468 effect of, on Nile, ib.
Animals, of the desert, their places of
resort in times of drought, 34, 35 ;
caution to be remembered after shoothabits of, all depend on
ing, 383
the nature of the localities they
;

inhabit, 530.

ness, 30, 31.

Assouan, difficulty and excessive labour

in cultivating the soil of, 2.
Atbara river, tributary of the Nile,
start for the junction of, with the
route from Berber to, 29,
Nile, 25
30 arrival at the junction of, with
"
the Nile, 31
crossing the dry bed
ib.
on
the
route
start
of,
along
32
the margin of,
appearance
and breadth of, ib. ; banks of,
dome palms, ib. ;
studded with
deep pools of water left in the
sharp bends of, asylums for all
animals, 34
comparison of, with
the Nile, 35 sudden and wonderful
change in, caused by coming down
of the river, 51, 52
dry bed of,
filled in one night with a mighty
stream, 53
departure from the
course of, 59 return to the valley
of descent
commencement
of, 89
to, 90
changed appearance of, ib. ;
occurrence of landslips on the banks
;

Ankoleep, species of dhurra or corn,

sweetness of, 244.
Annexation, principal object of, 76.
Antelopes, many vaiieties of, 64, 543 ;

manner

30 medicinally used in Ceylon, ib. ;

vegetable silk obtained from, ib. ;
poisonous qualities of, causing blind-

of stalking,

64,

87

86,

shooting of one, of a fine species,

377 of another species, 386 skins,
of, how tanned and used, 180, 181 ;
thirteen varieties of, seen by Sir S.
Baker, 543 ; catalogue of different
;

of,

ib.

called,

Arabs, banks of the river occupied by,

34 appetite of, for raw meat, 57, 384 ;
uniformity of dress among the tribes,
and encampment of
arival
65
several hundreds round Sir S. Baker's
fires, 67
evening prayers of, ib. ; apdeib.
plications of, for medicine,
fence of their country by, against
Egyptians, 74 ease with which they
ride camels, 99 annual migrations of,
adherence of, to
107, 109, et seq.
ancient customs, 127 strong religious
nomadic habits of,
feeling of, 129
128 daily habits of, illustrate Old
Testament, 129 et seq. few requirer
ments of, 129 eagerness of, to see new
faith in the Faky's or
arrivals, 143
love for relics,
priest's power, 157
un159
doctoring by, 164, 165
honour to a
pleasant way of showing
of scarifying the
guest, 227 ; custom
cheeks, 273 ; hunting of (see Hamran
;

or
91

Black
its

154

reached,

of,

river,

dangers of crossing,,

crocodiles, 93

from

species, ib.

"Bahr el
why so
maximum height

Arab name

Aswat,"

crossing,

on an

187
crossing,
start from,
in sponging bath, 206
last return to, at the sharp
216
angle, where it issues from the

impromptu

raft, 186,

mountains, 498; insignificant appearance of, in its infancy, ib.

power
of, entirely dependent upon drainage
;

of Abyssinia,

which

ib.

different aspects in

469

last sight of, ib. ;

exploration of, completed, 500.
Attendants, difficulty of procuring, 25 ;
two Turkish, sent by Governor of
Berber, 25 three procured at Cassala,
82, 85 ; difficulty of managing native, 349.

seen,

B.

Arabs}.

BABONOOSE WOOD, inflammability

of,

197.

Baboons, sharpness of, in avoiding a

bold visits from,
177
crocodile,
224 a herd of, hunting for berries,
237 capture of, by Hamran hunters, 307 whipped by the hunters, 308.
;

from
girl, extraordinary escape of,
drowning, 258 et seq.
Arabic language, necessity to the explorer of knowing, 21.

Arab

Ariel (Gazelle Dama), first sight of, at

shooting of, 86 et seq.
Soojalup, 63
Arrowroot, manufacture of, 285.
Asclepias gigantea plant, character of,
;

"Baby"

rifle,

Arab

nick-name

for,

delight of the Arab hunters on

329.
seeing, 283 ; elephant killed by,
Bacheet, young Arab servant procured
waits at table,* 183 ;
at Cassala, 82
his love of, sport, 216; skill of, in

151

INDEX.

stands the duties expected of her,

277 illness of, from eating fruit of
the Hegleek tree, 368 ; death of, 427.
Basalt rocks, appearance of, on the

landing fish, 223, 228 turns coward,

ridiculed by the fair sex,
252, 256
;

319.

name given to the finest

species of fish in the Atbara, 229

Baggar,

Settite
400
river,
extraordinary
appearance of, at the mouth of
destructive effect
the Angrab, 468
of water seen on, ib.
perpendicular
column of, with a waterfall,
;

and landing, 228

catching

581

et seq.

salting, 229.

Baker, Sir Samuel, his intention to examine the Nile tributaries, 280 ;
slight attack of fever, 21
unpleasant situation of, having lost his way
while stalking, 88 fire-arms carried
151
from
by,
advantages to,
alliance with the Hamran swordhunters, 175 ; his discussions with
the sheik on women, &c. 262 et
with Fakeers, 267
his fame
seq.
as a physician, 266, 268
his jungle
his "eligible freehold
surgery, 346
his hunting with
residence," 149
the aggageers (see Hunting)
submits to
Arab embraces, 277 ;
352
threatens the deserting camelmen, 446 ; good health of, 418 ;
providential escape of, while cleansends his card to
ing rifles, 448
Mek Nimmur, 452
supposed
feats of, the subject of
song, 454
saves a camel that had fallen over a
narrow escape of,
precipice, 472
while riding Aggahr, 480 ; his discussions with missionaries at Gallaadministers justice
bat, 504 et seq.
in a case of robbery, 514, 515
accepts a challenge from an insolent
native Tokroori, 519
pleasure of,
on seeing the "British Lion,"
556 ; observations of, on the resources of the Nile as an irrigator of

497.

Base

444.

Basket-work, cleverness of Arab

Egypt, 562 et seq.

Baker, Lady, illness of, at Moorahd,
12
attacked by fever, 21
illness
of, caused by arrival in the flooded
a riding camel chosen
country, 66
for, by El Baggar, 100
dangerous
attack of gastric fever at Sofi, 155
crosses the Atbara in a sponging
assistance of, in camp
bath, 206
arrangements and decorations, 151
kindness of, to the Arab women and.
children, 266
prepares for an attack of a buffalo, 312 kindness of,
to the slave women, 215, 427
fear
of danger to, from the Base, 390
hysena seen by, in the tent at night,
473 great alarm of, on seeing Aggahr return to the tent without his
:

rider, 481, 482.

Bamboos, on the banks of the Angrab,

467.^
Barrake, slave woman purchased by Sir
Samuel Baker, 274
engagement
276 ; singularly misunderwith,
:

women

in, 182.

territory of,

unknown, 81
by

of,

made on the

general opinion of
Egyptians, 80
the ferocity of, ib.
hostility of, to
81
all surrounding countries, 80,
slaves, the only plunder obtained
valuable as allies to the
from, 81
terror inspired by,
Egyptians, 82
their fear of fire301, 316, 348
rumours of expected
arms, 377
attacks from, 399, 401
hunting in
enthe country of (see Hunting)
joyment of exploring the country,

origin

tribe,

inroads

Bathing of Arab women, mode

265.

of,

Bayard, fishing for, 213, 214.

Bazaar at Katariff, Manchester and
German goods sold at, 271 amusing
;

scenes

at,

272.

Bedouins, 115 many tribes claim to

be descended from, ib.
for the hollow
Bees, fondness of,
trunks of homera trees, 355.
;

"Belgravia" of Khartoum, 555.

Berber, town on the Nile, arrival at,
17; description of, 18; kind reception given by the governor or Mudir of, 18
hospitality of Halleem
;

surEffendi, former governor, ib.

rounded by well-cultivated gardens,
ib.
water of the Nile made use of
visit from the
for irrigation at, 19
;

governor

of,

ib.

departure from, at

sunset, 29.
Birds, brilliant colours

of, change, 178;

224 migrations of,
swarms of, on bushes beside
233
Atbara river, 239 way of drinking,

nest-building

of,

ib.

constant pursuit of small,

by

falcons and hawks, ib.

Birds of prey (see Vultures).
Bishareen Arabs, desert north of Atbara occupied by, 37 ; fire-arms unknown to, 40
peculiar mode of
wearing their hair, 57 taxes paid by,
58 ; dislike of, to Turkish soldiers,
ib.
difficulty of procuring supplies;

from, how overcome, 58, 59.

jungle should
Bivouac, evening, 135
be avoided for, at night, 302 ; cover
;

lets

used

for, of ox-hides, 517.

582

INDEX.

Blood-stones found in the desert, 59;

large masses of, on the hills on the
route from Ombre ga, 450.

Bine Nile, junction of Dinder with,

547 of Rahad with, 548 arrival at
the banks of, ib.
grand appearance
;

Abou Harraz, 550 ;

opposite
clearness of the water, reason of the
name, 552
unnavigable in many
of,

places,
a, 554.

ib.

ferry across to

Khartoum,
n,

237.
a,

331

Eicharn

wounded by

a, 332.
Boat, difficulty of procuring, on the
Nile, 550.
Bolognesi (Signor Angelo), Italian merchant, meeting with, at Gallabat,
503.
Boorkatan, table mountain, description
of interesting country near, 399.
Boulti, species of perch caught at Col-

lodobad, 44 ; mention made

use
Bruce, the traveller, ib.

of,

by

of,

bait, 212.
Boxes, for rough travelling

as

should be

of japanned metal, 540.

Breech-loaders, luxury of, 539
why
not well suited for damp climates, ib.
Brace, Abyssinian traveller, dread entertained by, of sand columns, 24
Blue Nile traced to its source bv,
573.
;

hunt and capture of, 310 e.fr

value of a young one taken
as
a zoological specimen,
alive,
312
carcas-j
shooting of, 382 ;

Buffaloes,
;

used
of,
et seq. ;

413
lions,
not suited for
some hundreds killed
drying, 538
by Sir S. Baker, 539 not so formidable as elephants or rhinoceros, ib.
284
different
Bullets, making of,
kinds of, 542.
as

bait

flesh

for

of,

Buoy

death

one

of

in

the

support required for, in

one drowned,
swimming, 69, 93
69 theft of, 93, 94
difficulty of
procuring, 82 unpleasantness of, for
riding, compared with dromedaries,
99
ease with which Arabs ride, ib. ;
migration of, in rainy season, 108
milk of, ib.
flight of one from a
421
one hundred and two
lion,
;

Mek Nimmur's

by

foraging

451
narrow escape of one,
from a fall, 472 torture of, by flies,
on a march, 527.
Camel-drivers abscond with camels, 93
party,

Boar, encounter with

seq.

17

desert,

stolen

"Boa constrictor (python), escape of

14

desert,

for floating cargo across the river,

of a tetel's skin, 200.

Burning-glass, use of, to a traveller,
385, 541.
Butter, enormous consumption of, by
Sheik Abou Sinn, 116 ; for cooking
purposes, what made of, 426.
Buzzards, attracted by fire, boldness of,
235.

et

seq.

enter

refusal to

Mck Nim-

mur's territory, 445 forced submission of, 446

robbery by one, 514.
Camp, purchase of a new permanent,
at Son, 148; furniture of, 151, 152;
conveniences of, 149 et seq.
pleasant
life in, 214, 216
danger to, from
;

firing the grass, 391.

Canoe, failure in launching, 176.
Carriage, expenses of, 17, 272.

Cassala, capital of Taka country, situation of, 59;

depot for Egyptian
troops,

and military

route from

supplies,

Atbara river

ib.

60

to,

et

arrival at, 69 ; respect paid by

;
the governor of, to the firman, 70 ;
visit
hospitality experienced at, ib.
from Elias Bey, the governor, 'ib. ;
possibility of a more direct route to,
fortifications of,
72 bazaar in, 74
useless against cannon, ib.
neighbourhood of, well adapted for a military station, 79, 80 start from, 82.
Cassala
mountain, appearance and
height of, 68.
Catalogue des especes du genre antilope,
seq.

543

et seq.

Centaurs,likenessof Arab hunters to, 297.

Ceylon, plan of shooting in, 291 ;
habits of elephants in, 530
former
;

irrigation

of,

compared

to present,

569 et seq.
Ceylon rifles," giraffes shot with, 192, 196.
" Chick
Tokroori, 519.
ens,
Chimbane, deadly instrument of war
used by the Tokrooris, or Mahoni-

metan negroes,

511.

Church, Abyssinian, danger of disunion

by introduction of

fresh doctrine
the natives, 504.
Civilization, pleasure of returning to,
in,

among

after wild life, 554

dependent on
the physical condition of a country,

C.

CAIRO, boat voyage from, 1 extracts

from journal written during voyage
;

from, 1 et seq.
Camels, feeding of, 9
at Moorahd, 9

"camel's grave

skeletons

of,

"

in the

568

et seq.

beautiful colours of, at Geera, 245.

Coffee, camel's milk unsuited for, 108 ;
Cliffs,

luxury of, when halting, 133 largely

exchanged by Abyssinian merchants
;

INDEX.
at Gallabat for cotton, 503

583

cheapness

Darfur, inhabitants of, prized as slaves,

273 Tokrooris, natives of, 509 why

Coin, current among the Arabs, 176

Austrian dollar of Maria Theresa tho

unimpenetrable to civilization, ib.

fruitfulness of, ib.
emigration from,
should be encouraged, 512.
Delladilla, forest on the margin of the

of, ib.

favourite, 175, 176.

Collodobad, deepest and largest pool of

water 011 the Atbara, at, 36 halt at,
ib.
distress of Arabs congregated at,
from scarcity of food, 37 ; hippopotami
reported to be first seen at, ib. search
for, and shooting of two, 38 et seq.
savage delight of the Arabs over their
carcases, 43 ; and gratitude to Sir S.
Baker for the supply of food, 44.
Commissariat, arrangement of, for the
;

march, 538.
Compass, found useful to Sir S. Baker,
88 desire of the Tokrooris to contheir name for, ib.
sult, 526
Conical projectiles, velocity of, 542 fa;

cility of loading with, ib.

disadvan-

tages of, to the hunter, ib.

Consulate, English, at Khartoum, arrival at, 556 ; menagerie of wild beasts
in,

557

Coor

fish,

et seq.
of,

225.

Florian, 145.

evidences of the presence

water poisoned by, 460.

Corn, 524

(see

of,

Dhurrd).

450.

Crocodiles, warning against, while fishing, by Arabs, 44

shooting, 51, 94,
men killed by, when crossing
et seq.
the river, 93, 234 ; flesh of, used as
;

224
239

one found

party of

cunning

far

women

of,

240

from water,

attacked by,
peculiar

mode

most dangerous
of stalking, 393
kind found in the Binder river, 528.
;

Ciicumis colocynthis, withered melons,

medicinal use of,
bitter taste of, 8
;

by Arabs,

at,

372,

from, sixteen miles further up, ib. ;

return to, 410
abundance of game
;

found

at,

ib.

shot at, 411

418

death

and lions
healthiness of,

buffaloes

et seq.

Barrake

of

at,

427

camp removed from, ib. et seq.

Delta of Lower Egypt, how formed,
499.

Desert country, suffering of animals in,

9 et seq. ; comfort of travelling by
the bank of a river in, 36.
" Devil's
horse," Arab's name for secretary bird, 60.
grain, use ofr for camel's food,
9
price of, 77 ; sowing of, 78 ;
bread of, 79 analysis of, by Professor Johnstone, ib. ; capabilities of
the country for cultivation of, 77.

Dhurra

Dik-dik, very small antelope, 96.

Dinder river, tributary of tho ISTilo,
Sir S. Baker's intention to explore,
280 ; course of, parallel with the

Kahad, 523 arrival at, 527 ; banks

thronged with Kussana Arabs,
527 ; similarity of, to Kahad, 528
trees in the vicinity of, ib. dangerous
crocodiles found in, ib.
maneless
lion found on the banks of, 529
of,

Cotton, capabilities of country for cultivation of, 65, 73, 180, 249, 512,
525, 571 ; use of, by Arabs, 65
in the
weaving of, by Arabs, ib.
market of Gallabat, produced by
how the supply of,
Tokrooris, 511
might be increased by irrigation,
571
by emigration of Tokrooris
from Darfur, 512.

food, 96

encampment

373; pleasantness of, for a camp, 374,

417 furthest spot visited by Europeans, 389; encampment removed

Cornelian, white, abundance of, seen on

the hills passed on the route from

Ombrega,

Settite river,

Coorbatch, Arab whip of hippopotamus

hide, used for camels, 99 ; use of, in
love-making and matrimony, 125 ;

Copper,
451

description

made by

ib.

P.

obstructions on, to rapid navigation,

ib.
monotony of the journey along
the banks, 528, 547.
Dochail, grain, species of millet, cultivation of, 244.
Dogs, one carried off by a leopard,
303; Arabs' cure for distemper in, 165.
Dome palms, found on the banks
the Atbara river, 32 ; description of,
and uses of, ib. ; preparation of food
;

from fruit of, 33 Arabs chiefly supported by the fruit of, in times of
only shade on the route
scarcity, ib.
along the margin of the river afforded
;

by, 34.

Dongalowas, Florian's attendants, 369.

Dragoman (see Mahomet).
Drainage, entire want of, in flat country
between Goozerajup and Cassala, 65 ;
of the mountains, the cause of tho
sudden rise of Nile and Atbara,
400.

DABAINAS, Arab tribe, 115 intended

razzia upon, by Mek Nimmur's men,
;

447.

Dromedary,
gef.n).

riding

camel

(see

H y-

584

INDEX,
E.

hunting them, 172 dangers of huntdead carcases of, found

174
drowned, 178
eagerness of the
people over a dead one, 178 cunning
of, 250
damage done by, to dhurra
fields, ib. difficulty of tracking, 320 ;
herds of, near the Dinder, never
found so large as were expected, 529 ;
;

ing,

EGGS, omelettes of
ness

turtle's,

374

cheap-

in the
country near the ftahad
river, 526.
of,

Egypt, a new, formed beneath the

Mediterranean, by deposits washed
down by the Settite river, 499, 564 ;
revenues of Upper, might be increased by establishment of Tokroori
arrival on the soil of
colonies, 512

Upper, at Rahad river, 524 irrigaand magnificent

of, 565 et seq.

disdescription of, 531 et seq.

tinguishing features of Indian and
ib.
measurements of; 532 ;
African,
;
ear of, used as a mat, ib.
harmlessness of, a mistaken idea, 533 African

possible results to, of irrigation, 568,

571.

most dangerous,
sword when shot

tion

Egyptians, conquest of Arab tribes by,

74 ; indifference of, to future wellbeing of conquered races, 75 changes
in their government of
conquered
Arab tribes since Sir S. Baker's visit
to the country, ib.
government of,
why mistrusted by the Arabs, 76
taxes, how raised, ib. ; warfare with
Mek Nimmur, 278 et seq. 459, 461 ;
called "Turks," by the
neighbourMai Gubba, heading tribes, 461
of
Mek
quarters
Nimmur, destroyed
;

by, 444.

Egyptian troops, destroyed by thirst in

crossing the Nubian desert, 12, 13
soldier murdered by an Arab, 235
twenty thousand generally kept in
the Soudan, 560 principal stations
;
;

of, ib.

one killed by
shot in
failed, 327
the forehead proved not fatal to
encounter with, by
African, ib.
aggageers, without fire-arms, 344 ;
Jali's leg broken by one, 345
flesh
foot
of, disagreeable for food, 341
and trunk of, excellent as food, 534 ;
how to make use of the fat of, 535 ;
tusks of, why difficult to obtain an
ib.

exact pair, 533.

Elias Bey, governor of Cassala, firman
kissed by, 70 visit from, ib.
Emigration of Tokrooris from Darfur,
advantages of encouraging, 512.
Encampment, in the garden of Halleem
on the
Effendi, outside Berber, 18
banks of Atbara at Collodobad, 37 ;
at Cassala among wild fig-trees, 69; on
;

the Atbara at Goorashee, 98 at Sofi,

with a new camp, 149 removal of,
to the high plateau on the opposite
;

Ehetilla, Arab name for the

Sir S. Baker's encampment,

spot of
opposite
deSofi, on the Atbara river, 216
scription of encampment at, 206 ;
crossing the river to reach, 205 et seq. ;
;

charmingly independent life

at,

216

shooting and fishing at, extracts

from journal describing, 216 et seq. ;
move from, to Wat el Negur, 248.
El Baggar, black servant given by
Governor of Cassala, renown of, as a
his selection of a
sportsman, 85
riding camel for Lady Baker, 100.
in
hair
and woollen maElectricity,
terials, produced by heat and dryness of the air, curious effect of, 17.
;

Elephants, hunting by aggageers, 172

et seq.
at Wat
el
Negur, 254
et seq.
in Tooleet jungle, 289
of a bull, at Ombrega, 304, 305
close and dangerous figh't with a
bull, by aggageers, sword in hand,
323 discovery of a herd of, 325
one killed by the "Baby" rifle,
329
seven killed by Sir S. Baker's
hunting party in one day, 330
hunters chased by one, 435 dangerous encounter with one, 437 et seq.
shooting, 478 et seq.; horses used in
:

at Ehetilla, 206, 211

at Wat
Negur, 248 on an island in the
Settite river, 313,315
at Delladilla,
in the Base country, 372 et seq.',
under tamarind trees, at Ombrega,
444
in Mek Nimmur's territory,
450 on the banks of the Salaam

bank

el

river, 466.

England, power of, in protecting the

Abyssinian territory, 560.
Etiquette, Arab, 112.
European acquaintances made by Sir
S. Baker in Africa almost all dead,
371
goods sold at bazaar, at Katariff, 271
pleasure of meeting with,
;

at Gallabat, 503.

Exodus, yearly, Arabs' enjoyment

Expedition to explore the Nile tributaries

ment

and Base country, commence4

launch into the Nubian

of,.

route across the desert, 6,

halt at Moorahd, 11 dreadful

desert, 5

route from Korosko to

15; sight of the Nile,

of,

110.

et seq.

Abou Hammed, 16

Abou Hammed,
ib.

start

from

route along the

margin of the Nile, ib. ; arrival at
the town of Berber, 17 ; hospitable
;

INDEX.
the

by

reception

and

governor

Halleem Effeudi, 18 ct seq. a week's

rest in the gardens, 21 ; visit to Lady
Baker of Turkish ladies, 22 start from
;

Berber to Atbara river, 25 trouble

with the dragoman, and amusing
scenes in consequence, 28 et seq. arrival at junction of the Atbara with the
Nile, 30
crossing the dry bed of the
;

Atbara, 31
appearance of the river,
32 ; start on the ronte along the
margin, ib. ; intense beat during the
comfort of travelling
march, 35
along the banks of a river in the
arrival at the large pool
desert, 36
ib.
of Collodobad,
encampment
at Collodobad, 37 ; hippopotamusshooting at Collodobad, 41 et seq. ;
fishing 44 et seq. ; shooting gazelles,
47, 49
nearly suffocated by a whirl;

51

wind,

crocodile-shooting,

ib.

sudden change on the Atbara, 52 et

start from
Collodobad, 54
seq.
route along the margin of Atbara
;

continued, 55 et seq.
pyramidical
59
at
Gozerajup,
change
of route, Atbara river left, 59; arrival at limits of Nubian desert, 61 arrival at Soojalup, 62
fertility of the
abundance of game,
country, ib.
halt in the flooded country,
ib. 63
on account of illness of Lady Baker,
66 ; visit of crowds of Arabs round
the camp fires, 67
Sir S. Baker gets
fame as a physician, 68 arrival at Cassala, 69
hospitality of Malcm Georgis, a Greek merchant, 70 ; residence
at Cassala, ib.
description of, and
;

hills

informacountry near, 73 et seq.

tion acquired concerning Base tribe,
;

their

rumoured

ferocity,

80,

81

from Cas^ala, crossing the Gash

inarch to rejoin the Atriver, 85
start

bara,

ib. et seq.

arrival at valley of
descent to the river,
;

Atbara, 89
90
encampment on the banks, 92
violent deluge of rain, ib. ; crocodile
shooting, 95 et seq.
encampment at
Goorashee, 98 procuring hygeens or
;

start from
riding camels, 100 et seq.
Goorashee, 102 halt on account of a
104
discovery of
coming storm,
continuation of
scorpions, 104, 106
march along Atbara river, 106 et
;

seq.

commencement

of rainy season,

on the country, ib.

meeting with natives migrating to
107

its effect

arrival at the camp

the north, ib.
of Sheik Abou Sinn, the great Arab
visit from the sheik,
patriarch, 110
110 et seq.
an Arab welcome, 113
et seq.
arrival at head-quarters of
Sheik Atalan Wat Said, and hospi;

585

table reception by, 136, 137; information obtained about Mek Nimmur,
the Leopard King, 138
arrival at
the junction of the Settite with the
escorted to Sofi, by
Atbara, 136
Atalan Wat Said, 141 meeting with
Florian the German,
142
permanent encampment at Sofi, 149 et
with
Hamran
Arab
seq. ; meeting
sword-hunters, or aggageers, 167 ;
engagement with some, to join the
hunting party, ib. et seq. exploits of
the sword-hunters, 171, 173 et seq.;
extracts from journal describing Sir
S. Baker's life at Sofi, 175 et seq.
;

cross to opposite side of river, and

encampment at Ehetilla, 205, 206,
et seq.
life
at Ehetilla, extracts
;

from

journal,

descriptive

216

of,

excursion from Ehetilla for

shooting, 216 et seq.
fishing near
the mouth of the Till, 220 et seq. ;
et seq.

Wat

remove to

Negnr, 248

el

pre-

parations made for hunting expedition in the Base country, 274, 284 ;
purchase and engagement of a slave
of
274
woman,
engagement
Tokrooris or Mahometan negroes,
274 discussions with Sheik Wat el
;

Negur on women, 262

et seq.

with

Fakeers, 267
shooting and hunting
with the Arab sword-hunters, 288 et
seq.
encampment on an island in the
Settite river, 313, 315
hunting of
;

elephants, buffaloes, rhinoceros, lions,

in the Base country, 288 et seq. (see

Hunting]

hippopotamus harpoon-

335

ing,

et

Delladilla

seq.

encampment

at

start along

372;

forest,

the upward course of the Royan,

432
encampment at Ombrega, 444 ;
;

arrival

Mek Nimmur's ter-

and stay in

ritory, 451 et seq.

to the camp, 453

visit of minstrels
arrival at Salaam

and Angrab rivers, 465, 466 shooting in the country round, 467 et seq.
march again to the Atbara, 497 reach
it where it issues from the hills, 498
last look of it from Toganai village,
499
exploration of Atbara comleave the village of Topleted, 500
and
arrive at Gallabat, marketganai
town, 501
encampment at, and
meeting with Europeans, 502, 503 ;
a stroll through the market, 503
march from Gallabat to the river
Rahad, 517 et seq. death of two
horses at Roumele, 521
exhausting
march from Roumele to Rahad river,
and monotony of the country on the
extreme thirst of the
route, ib.
men, 522 reach the banks of the
route along the banks,
Rahad, ib.
;

586

INDEX.

monotony of, 524 et scq. start from

Kahad to the Dinder, 527 march
;

along the hanks of the Dinder, 528

arrive at Abou Harraz, on the 131 ue
Nile, 548 ; unsuccessful attempt to
procure a boat to sail to Khartoum,
550 route along the Nile to Khartoum, fearful heat of, 553 inhospitality of the Arabs met with, ib.
cunning of a Faky, ib.
hospitable
reception at Rufaar, head quarters of
Sheik Abou Sinn, 551 arrival at Abou
Dome, and view of Khartoum, 554
the Blue Nile, ib.
ferry across
;

Fish eagle, daring feat of a, 40.

Fishing at Collodobad, 44 et seq.
difficulty of procuring bait for, in the
excitement of, in the Atdesert, 44
bara pools, 44
near the mouth of
the Till, 213; exciting run, 221 et
;

scq.

come

142

of,
;

welstone house belonging

settled at Sofi,

why

145

46 means of living, ib.

valuable
information
given by,
regarding
seasons, 146, 147
agrees to accompany the hunting expedition,
147; illness of, at Sofi, 155; horso
1

for baggar, 229, 231.

German settler at Sofi,

143

to,

pleasure of returning to civilization,

ib. ;
residence in the British conobservations on
sulate, ib. et scq.
the rivers by the explorer, 563 d scq.

Florian,

purchased by, 286 first attempt at

severe illness of, 369;
mounting, ib.
death of, killed by a lion, 370.
Fowls, cheapness of, 526
presents of,
;

brought by the

F.

Fox
FAITIT,

the

Arab's

cure for

all

com-

plaints, 157.

Fakeer, Faky, or priest, numerous applications to, for all maladies, 157
the only ArabM.D., ib.
the Koran
;

his

complete pharmacopeia, 157,

158 reverence for the dead body of
1G2
a,
grave of a Faky at Son, ib.
;

theological discussions of Sir

with," 267
religious belief
instance of cunning and
of, ib. ;
inhospitality of a, 553.
Falcons, small birds constantly pursued
by, 239.
et seq.

S.

extent

266.

traps, usefulness of, to the traveller

in catching night game, 541.

Francolin partridges, five brace shot,
excellence of, as game, ib. ;
430
might be shot in hundreds near the
'

Salaam, 477.
Frendeet, painful disease, caused by
drinking the water accumulated in
pools during the rainy season, 269.

Baker

Family

women of Sofi,

G.

tree, Mahomet's,
of, 83.

incalculable

Fat, great desideratum of Arabs, 116

used for head-dressing, 117
effect
upon, of a journey in the desert, ib.
necessary for the skin in hot cliof elephants, how to
mates, 127
"use, 535.
mines
of
Fazogle,
gold worked at, by
;

GALENA, veins

found, 375.
Galla, extreme beauty of native women
of, 516 ; sold for Turkish harems, ib.
Gallabat, frontier market-town of Abyssinia, 483 ; arrival at, 501 ; curiosity
of the natives, ib. ; market at, ib. ;
disgusting appearance of the water

502 visit from Jusef, Abyssinian

merchant, 503 principal trade of,
ib.
meeting with Signor Bolognesi,
ib.
Italian merchant,
with two
German missionaries, 504 ; visit to
at,

Egyptian Government,

Feasts, holy, of Arabs, 202.

Ferry across the Atbara, 92; across
the Blue Nile at Khartoum, 554.

Fever, slight attacks of, 21, 66, 68 ;

severe attack of, Lady Baker at Son,
155 ; cured by quinine, 70 ; causes
of, 66, 227, 561.
of
Fight, dangerous sword-in-hand,
aggageers, with an elephant, 323 ;
with native Tokrooris, 518.

Fig-trees, wild, at Cassala, 69.

Firing the grass, difficulty of, 385

98.

of,

the Sheik, 507.

Galton (Mr. Francis), advice given by,
for crossing a deep river with a
horse, 378.

Game

(see

Hunting)

scarcity

of,

on

the route along Rah ad and Dinder

rivers, 528 ; different bullets required
for,

Game

542.

paths made by animals going to

drink, 403.

Gardens of Halleem Effendi, on tho

outskirts of

Berber,

18

artificial

tho
on the

irrigation of, 19 ; camp in, ib. ; departure from, 25.

Garra, fruit of the Acacia Arabica, use

Firman, procured from the Viceroy, 4

kissed by Elias Bey, 70
a neverfailing talisman, 82 ; not respected

in tanning, 180 ; ink made from,

528.
ish, or Hareb river, course of, 66 ;
country near Cassala flooded by, ib. ;

camp endangered by, 391

bank of the Royan, 441.

of,

by Jeinma, a Tokrooii

sheik, 507.

INJ)F.X.

69
course of,
turned by Egyptians, 74 reerossing
water of, should be filtered
of, 85
difficulty of fording,

during rainy season, 80.

Gazelles, two seen on the route from
Moorahd to Abou Hammed, 13
habits and
stalking of buck, 47
beauty of, 48; difference between,
and those confined in temperate
;

regions,

ib.

food

coarse

ib.

of,

support in the desert,

49 skins of, used for girbas, 49.
Gazelle, name of one of Sir S. Baker's
horses, purchase of, 242 death of, 521.
Geera, cliffs of, appearance of the Settite river between, 245
arrival at,
flesh of, chief
;

287

Base country,

start from, for the

296.

587

four pyramidical hills of granite opposite to, 59.

Granite, pyramidical hills of, at GozeCassala, mountain of, 68 ;
rajup, 59
hills of, 375.
;

two species of, 209 impossible

walk over when ripe, 210, 236 ;
enormous height of, in the jungle,
310
firing of, 384 et seq., 441 ;
should always be cleared away round

Grass,

to

camp when

the

dry, 392.

Grave, camel's, at Moorahd, 9

Faky's,
162 ctsiq. ; of Johann Schmidt, 370.
;

Greeks, hospitality of, at Cassala, 70.

use
in
of,
coursing
Greyhounds,
gazelles, 48.

Guddabi, nearest viliage to the Salaam,

483 country round, ib.
Guide, desert, unquestioned authority
;

Geese (wild), on the Atbara river, 32

shooting of, 40, 96
pairing of, 54.

settler at Soft, delight of,

at
seeing Europeans, 142 missionaries
at Gallabat, 504
goods, sold at
Katariff market, 271.
TimGerrarat, stronghold of Mek
;

mur, destruction

244

of,

8.

of,

German,

curious

Guinea-fowl, abundance

of,

135; jun-

gles full of, 63.

Guitars, generally made of turtle-shell,
203.
Gum-arabic, varieties of, from mimosa
tree, 73; beautiful appearance of, 35 6.

situation of, ib.

Giraffes, flocks of, seen, 175, 179 ; difficult stalking of, 188 et seq. 195;
statue-like appearshooting of, 191

H.

ance

of,

190

beauty

192

of,

re-

treat of a herd, 191 ; extraordinary

power of vision the defence of, 192
;

steaks

of,

197; flesh

devoured by

of,

lions, 202.
Girbas, water-sacks, preparation of, 49
one swallowed by a crocodile in mistake for a woman, 239.
Glands of the crocodile, ornaments of,
;

worn by women, 96; musk found in, ib.

one killed
Goats, purchase of, 287
by a leopard, 302 eat the poisonous
plant, Asclcpias yigantea, 31.
God, Arab's reverence for, 129, 130.
Gold, found in the sand of the Atbara,
98 mines for, at Fazogle, ib.
dust,
common in the sand in the ravines,
;

II AD AM,

working tusk

for

Hadendowa Arabs, character of, 62 ;

conquest of, by Mehemet Ali Pasha,
chief of, imib.
country of, ib.
;

prisoned by Egyptians, 75.

Hadji Achmet, Turkish servant, provided by the Governor of Berber, 25 ;

sent back to Berber, 71.
Hadji Velli, Turkish servant, provided
by the Governor of Berber, 25
;

return

of,

Hailstones,

to Berber, 54.

remains

of,

Nubian

in

desert, 6.

of Arabs, Bishareen's mode of

dressing, 57 ; distinction of tribes,
chiefly known by mode of dressing,

Hair

115

461.

Goorashce, ferry to, 92 cotton farm of

Malein Georgis at, 93 encampment
at, 98 ; gold found in Atbara river at,

Arab name

of an elephant, 533.

of,

etseq.

120

women,
Hallonga

pomade

for,

117

dyeing

elaborate dressing, by Arab

121.
tribe, allies of Hadendowa

Gourds, use of shells of, for cups and

camel-loads met on
ladles, 241, 525
the road to Gallabat, ib.

tribe in the war with Egyptians, 62.

Hallowa mountain, unmistakable lanlmark, 522.
Halt in the desert, 8.

Government of conquered

Hamed, former Sheik

ib.

Egyptians, 75.
Governor of Berber'
surprise of,
expedition,

tribes

by

visit from,

19

on hearing the object of

ib.

friendship

of,

how

-large
arrival at, 57 ;

dore's decision in consequence, ib.

Arabs, aggageers, or elephant
distinsword-hunters, 167 et scq.

Hamran

proved, 24.
Gozerajup,

of Galabat, imprisonment of, by Egyptians, 508

battle with Jemma, ib.
appeal of,
Theoto Egypt, for assistance, ib.

permanent
description

village,
of,

ib.

guishing

features

of,

167,

168

588

INDEX.

weapons
with Sir

of,
S.

to Sir S.

175

169, 170

interview

Baker, 171

Baker of

of,

advantages

alliance

with,

party of, join the hunting expedition, 281

splendid appearance of
some, ib. extraordinary feats of, 173
hunting with, 296 et seq. (see
;

Hunting and Aggageers. )

;

Hawks,

birds constantly pur-

sued by, 239.

Heat, suffering from, 5
terrific, at
Moorahd, 10 on the route along the
margin of the Atabara, 35 on the
route from Abou Harraz to Khartoum,
653
evaporation of water from
water-skins caused by, 5
effect of,
;

on paper, &c. &c. 17.

Hegleek tree (Balanites jEgyptiaca],
368

fruit of,

soap,

Henna

hunters, 521.

harpooner of hippopotami,

Howarti,

renown of, 295 exploit of, 338,

Hunting knives, 540.
Hunting party, meeting with a curious,
;

Harpoon, dexterous use of, by Abou

Do, 296 description of, 333 hippopotamus-hunting with, 336 et seq..
395 et seq.
small

advance of a mare in face of an

lamed by reckless
elephant, 436
curious
riding of aggageers, 402
instinct of, 482
epidemic among,
517; death of Sir S. Baker's two

burnt wood

used as

of,

547.

Hunting, a boar, 331 buffaloes, 310,

311
elephants, 254 et seq., 288
et seq., 304,
322 et seq., 434 et seq.,
478 et seq.
lions, difficulty of, 238,
410 et seq., 419 et seq.
hippopotami,
39 et seq., 251 et seq.
rhinoceros,
S57 etseq., 387, 405 et seq., 486 et
;

seq. (see

Stalking.)

Hyaenas, Cassala rich

in clearing

plant, its character,

3.

Herr Von, expedition of, in

search of Dr. Vogel, 543 catalogue
by, 543 et seq.
Hippopotamus, search for, at Collodomen killed by, 39, 234
bad, 39, 40
shooting of, by Sir S. Baker, 41
et seq.
shooting of large bull, 51
a good shot at, 253
number killed
;

made

of, for use of Lady Baker,

pleasure of riding, when well
trained, 133
beauty of those pro-

exhibition

100

vided by Sheik Atalan Wat Said, 141,

142.

harpooning of, by
Abou
et neq.
harpooning
character and habits
of, 394 et seq.
teeth of, 54
value
of, 340 et seq.
of tusks of, 342
wonderful speed of,

I.

in escaping hunters, 337, 342.

(Dutch) use of, a similar implement
in Soudan, 77.
Holloway's pills, why of value to the

Hoe

traveller, 67.

shrines, pest spots of the world,

infectious disorders generally traced

Holy
to,

usefulness

Hygeen, dromedary or riding camel,

147
Do, 336

Florian,

160

70

away carrion,

165.

ib.

Heuglin,

by

in,

ib.
bold
nocturnal visit of one, 473.
Hydrophobia, Arab precaution against,

of,

et seq.

Honey, abundance

of,

Indian-rubber,

hollow trees, 497.

Hor Mai Gubba, or

and

means by which
improved in Egypt, 564

Irrigation,

calculable benefit of,

carried out, 568 et seq.
of civilization, 672.

in

from garra
it

might be

et seq.

in-

if
;

properly
great source

covered with nabbuk bushes,

Settite river,

313, 315

encampment on,
camp removed from, 371.

Ismael

Nabbuk

river,

tributary of the

torrent,

useless

vulcanized,

tropical climates, 541.

Ink, made by Sir S. Baker,
plant, 528.

on the

digitata).

in rocks

sticks of, convenient for

traveller, 541.

Island,

Homera tree (see Adansonia

mountain

INDIAN INK,

Royan, 429 encampment near, ib.

Horns, annulated, of the buck gazelle,
48
of rhinoceros, great protection
to the animal, 364
of nellut, finest
of buffalo, 538.
obtained, 467
Horsemanship, Arab, wonderful excite;

of
Pasha, son
Mehemet Ali Pasha,

the Viceroy
extortionate
demand
from
Sheik
Mek
of,
death
Nimmur, 139 how met, ib.
of, by burning, as revenge, 139 et seq.
Itch, epidemic of, at Sofi, Sir S. Baker's
successful treatment of, 156.
;

ment

297, 298.

of,

J.

purchase of three, cheapness

saddles and bits of, 243
of, 242
swimming across a river, 378 chase
of rhinoceros by, 359 et seq.
brave
advance of one, towards a lion, 422

Horses,

JALEEN ARABS,
territory,

flight of,

and

from Egyptian
with Mek

alliance

Nimmur,
Hamran Arab sword-hunter,
451.

Jali,

ac-

INDEX.
companies Sir S. Baker's expedition
into the Base, 297
wonderful horsemanship of, 297, 298
elephant
killed by, with a sword, 327
leg of,
;

broken by an elephant, 344

to

ill,

made

Florian, arrival of, 369 ; object of,

in joining the hunting party, ib. ;

engagement of, by Sir S. Baker, for

White Nile expedition, 369 grave
of, on the banks of the White Nile,
:

370.

Johnstone, Professor, analysis of dhurra

corn by, 79.
Jungles, swarming with guinea-fowl
at Soojalup, 63
cooking in, 217
thick at Tooleet, 295
should be
;

for

302

bivouac,

night

enormous height of grass

hunting in (see Hunting).

in,

310;

visit of, to Lady Baker at

converBerber, 22 ; dresses of, ib.
sation of, ib.
influence of, over their

LADIES,

ib.

husbands,

Landmarks, natural, 59, 483, 522.

Language, ignorance of Arabic, makes
a small party desirable, 5
determination of Sir S. Baker to learn,
;

21

;
Tigre, Bibles printed in, 506.
Lead, Mek Niinmur's preference of, to

gold, 461.

Leather, bottles of, for water, directions

about, 13 ; manner of tanning, 180
et seq.

Leopard, snake killed by a, 225 carries

off a goat and a dog at Ombrega,
302
at
the
unpleasantness of,
English Consulate at Khartoum, 557.
;

Lice, 122, 123.

making

first seen at Geera, 245 ;

beautiful colours of the cliffs on the

Limestone,

Katariff,

KATARIFF, arrival at, to procure men

and a slave, 270 hospitable reception
bazaar at,
at, by Michel Georgis, ib.
scenes at the market of, 272.
271
Khartoum, exhausting march to, 553
different appearance of, on a nearer
view, 555
meeting with Herr Von
Heuglin at, 543 stay at, preparing
for the White
Nile
expedition,
;

unhealthiness of,
from, in search of the
;

561

sail

White Nile

shells, for

soap, 424.

Settite river,

K.

558

river, 527.

Lime, procured from oyster

Abyssinian merchant, meeting

with, at GaUabat, 503.

Jusef,

Wirde"

(child of the fever)

frequency of, as a disease among
people of Sofi, 157.
Johann Schmidt, old companion of

avoided

the Soudan, ib.

description of, 4 ;
departure from, 5.
Kunana Arabs, camp of, on the Binder

Baker, for
347 ; returns

drink

Jershooa, intoxicating
from, 513.
el

merchandise for

for all vessels with

Sir S.

gratitude of,
his attention while
to Geera, ib.

" Jenna

et seq.

589

ib.

273

grey found near

fine

beautiful colours

of,

found on the way from Ombrega to

Mek Nimmur's

district, 450.
to Sir S. Baker's tent,
237 ; danger of, to horses in a jungle,
314 ; sudden appearance of a lioness
close to the camp, 373 ; roaring of,

Lion, visit of

a,

over a dead buffalo, 316

Florian
feeding on carcase
;
tracking of, near
Delladilla, 413 et seq.
escape of,
through indecision of Tokroori gunlioness killed, 416 ;
bearers, 415
difficulty of bagging, 417 ; continued
hunting of, 419 et seq. fury of, on
;

killed by a, 370
of buffalo, 414

source, 573.
Kisra, bread made in Arabia, grinding
of corn for, 78
preparation of, 79.
Kittar bush, nickname of, 103 conse;

quences of a charge through, 104,

290
impervious as a fence round
disastrous rush
encampment, 374
through, in flight from a rhinoceros,
;

387, 388.

Kook, small village on the banks of the

Rahad, arrival at, 527.
Koran, supposed power of, in cases of
illness, 358; use made of, by Fakeers,
ib.
pork forbidden by, as food, 166.
Kordofan, finest gum arabic found in,

being attacked, 420 grand appearance of, in the jungle, 421

fear of
men, 417 one carried to Lady Baker
fat of, used for
in the camp, 423
lamps, 424 ; parts of, valued as
;

amulets, 423.
Lucifer matches,

danger

of,

in dry,

tropical weather, 541.

M.

73 inhabitants of, prized as slaves,

273 scarcity of water in, 356.
;

Korosko, arrival

at,

halting-place

MAARIFF (Hippotragus

Bakerii) largest
of all the antelopes of Abyssinia and
Central Africa, description of, 475 ;
agreed to be a new species by Herr

INDEX.

590
Von

most
Heuglin, 543
animals to stalk, 476

all

difficult of

racter of, 26; influence of hardships on

his temper, 27 feigns deafness, 28
his paroxysms of rage, 28, 29 family
pride of, 83, 84 his wife, ib. bitten
by a scorpion, 104 fear of crossing
the river, 206 fury at his relative's
;

209
275

208

illness

dangerous

of,

interprets for Sir S. Baker,

his terror of the lions, 316

his terror of the Base, 317, 390

reassuring avowal to Lady Baker of
his military tactics, 390
deserts the
impertinence of, ib.
party, 426
Mai Gubba, head-quarters of Mek
Nimmur, 141 ; destruction of, by
;

Egyptian troops, 444.

.Malein Georgis, Greek

merchant

at

C'assala, hospitality of, 71

ferryboat across Atbara river, belonging
farm
at
cotton
92
of,
to,
;
Goorashee,
;

93.

Manchester, goods from, sold at Katariff bazaar, 271.

Marabou stork, plucking of, 257 feed
;

with vultures, 492 peculiarities of,

494 very numerous beside the Nile
;

tributaries, 496.

March, proper arrangement of, 133 et

scq.
pleasures of, 134 exhausting,
from Roumele to Eahad river, 522
food suitable for, 536 et seq.
Mareotis, Lake, made use of by ancient
Egyptians as a reservoir, 565.
Maria Theresa, favourite coin among
Arabs, 175 regret of Sir S. Baker in
parting with one, 455.
of
Market, of Katariff, 270 et seq.
;

Gallabat, 501.

ib.
friendship of, with Theodore,
king of Abyssinia, 280, 444 villages
belonging to, destroyed by Egypretreats to the mountains,
tians, ib.
ib.
meeting with a party of his men
on a foray, 446 encampment on the
;

450, 451 ; lawlessness of

the society there, how caused, 451 ;
civilities of, to Sir S. Baker, 452,
district of,

conversation with, and request

to Sir S. Baker, 459
desire of,
to be at peace with Egyptian governcautions Sir S. Baker
ment, ib.
against drinking the water in the
district, 460
present sent to, failure

459

of,

of, on the
departure from the
territory of,
proposals of, rejected by Moosa Pasha, 559.
found
in Nubian
Melons, withered,
medicinal
desert, bitter taste of, 8
use of, by Arabs, ib. ; bed of, de-

461

of,

occasion,

polite behaviour

462

464

stroyed by hippopotamus, 38.

Menagerie, at the English consulate at
Khartoum, 557 et seq.

Metemma

(see Gallabat), signification

of term, 508.
Michel
Greek merchant,
Georgis,
nephew of Malem Georgis, hospitable
reception by, at Katariff, 270.
Migration of birds, 233 ; of people,
110; a village deserted in consequence of, 526.
Milk, abundance of camels', 108 Arab
way of preparing and using, excellent
;

on delicate patients, 108;

carried by women, in baskets, 182.
Mimosas, appearance of, 102 magical
growth of the buds of, how accounted
55
hooked thorns of, 102
for,
effect of,

Masara (Sarah) a slave hired at Sofi,

214 good character of, 215 affec;

tion for her daughter, ib.

Serdi stream, 465.
Mat, elephant's ear used as, 532.

Ma

Matrimony among Arabs,

ducted, 124

Mahomet, the dragoman, peculiar cha-

flight,

obtain an introduction to, 248

sudden invasion by, 278 several tribes
warlike tactics of,
friendly to, 279
ib.
situation of his territory, 281 ;
invitation sent by, to Sir S. Baker,

of,

how

536

con-

kittar bush, the worst species of,

103; use of fibre and bark, 178;
fruit of, 179.

pre-

Mini, old Arab camel-driver, robbery

of dollars by, 514 ; how discovered,

et seq.

Meat, dried, usefulness

serving, 541.

Mehemet Ali Pasha, conquest by, of

Hadendowa Arab tribe, 62 erection
;

by, of barrage between Cairo and

Alexandria, 565.
Mek Nimmur, chief of Sliendy, meaning
Ismael Pasha's
of name, 139, 140
139
extortionate demand from,
;

of, 140 ; territory given to,

by king of Abyssinia, ib.
Mek Nimmur, son of Mek Nimmur,
chief of Shendy, continual raids made

revenge

by, against the Egyptian frontier,

138, 141 ; desire of Sir S. Baker to

51 4 et seq.

Miua, species of bird, black, colonies

of,

224.

Minerals, gold in the sand of Atbara,

98
gold mines at Fazogle, ib.
large quantities of valuable, to be
;

found through Abyssinian mountains,

451 lead found in the ravines, 461.
;

Minstrels, visits from, while encamping

in Mek Nimmur's territory, 453,
456 ; subject of their song, 454
payment expected by, 455.
;

Mirage, Egyptian troops destroyed by

591
following

a,

Nubian

in the

departure from, 6 ; return to, 15 ;

course of, through
of, 21
the desert, marked by fringes of
clue obtained to the
bushes, 29
4

desert,

Missionaries,

two German, met

at Gal-

504; opinion regarding the

inexpediency of present work of, in
labat,

Abyssinia,
506.

ib. et seq.

mystery of, 53, 564 tributaries of,

280 connexion between varieties of
fish and reptiles in, 375
sudden rise
of, caused
by mountain drainage,
400
effect on, of other river torno attempt made to
rents, 468, 475
secure a supply of water from, for all
method in which the
seasons, 564
land might be irrigated by, 565 ct
;

illness of one,

Moorahd, sufferings of men and camels

on the route to, 9, 10 bitterness of
water at, 5
description of the
mournful appearance of, 9; "camel's
grave" at, ib. crows attracted to,
;

10 ; heat of, ib. et seq.

dreadful
route from, to Abou Hammed, 12,
;

seq.

possible future blessing

of,

to

the country, 568.

13.

Moosa, an old fortune-teller, his power

of frightening the Tokrooris, 348.

rosko, 5

ib.

hills

England's

acknowledges

as a protector, 560

of Arabs, 128

food

Nubia, Arab tribes of, 115.

Nubian desert, route across, from Ko-

overtures by, 559

declares his intention of giving Abyssinians a les-

power

Nomadic habits
suited for, 537.

Moosa Pasha, Governor-General of the

Soudan, rejection of Mek Nimmur's

son,

slow rising

13.

starts to

solitude

ib.

in,

Moorahd,

of,

route

ib. et seq.

volcanic
to

through,

wave -like ap-

charm of the night

pearance of, 7
in, 9
Egyptian troops lost in, by
farthest
following a mirage, 12, 13
limit of, reached and passed, 61
frontier of, marked by the landmark
of Gozerajup, ib.
dreariness of, 60
present daily life in, a mirror of the
;

drive the Abyssinians from Gallabat,

ib.

Mosquitos and other insects, miserable

night caused by, 217.
love
Music, character of Arab, 203
at Mek Nhnmur's encampof, ib.
ment, 453 et seq.
Musk, obtained from crocodiles, 96
in favour with Arab women, 119.
Mystery of the Nile, a clue obtained
to, 53
dispelled, 564.
;

past, 131.

0.

OLD TESTAMENT,

similarity of descriptions in, to present life among the

129
Arabs, 126,
great interest of,
studying while searching in the East,

N.

NABHUK BUSHES
arbour

(Rhamnus

230

of,

jungles

lotus),

of,

how

produced in the Settite valley, 313

an island covered with, 313 ; fruit
of, useful preserved, 368.
;

Nahoot

Guddabi, mountain, unmistakable landmark, 483.

Nails, rusty, used in making ink,
528.

Names, common,
Natron,

water

impregnated

with,

449.
(A. Strepsiceros\ a kind of
horns
antelope, killing of, 377, 467
of, finest seen, 467.
Night, in the desert, charms of, 9, 36
;

thunderstorm during, 105 alarm by

sudden rising of the Atbara during,
51 et seq.
a miserable, 217
tem;

of,

185, 561.
;

mencement

crystals

of,

found in basalt,

Ombrega, name, "mother of the thorn,"

301 ; beautiful situation of, ib.
bivouac at, ib. camp robbed during
the night by a leopard, 302
second
arrival at, and bivouac under tamarind trees, 444 ; meeting with party
;

Mek Nimmur's men on

a foray at,

446 et seq.
Onions, best substitute for meat, mode
of cooking, 89.
ill
Ostriches, attempt to shoot, 404
the English Consulate at Khartoum,
;

556.

Owat, Sheik

of the

Hamran

tribe,

281.

Oysters, numerous in beds of Atbara

and Settite rivers, 233 lime inado
from shells of, 424.
;

on the banks of, 1 vestiges

of ancient forts on either side, 2
appearance of, at Korosko, 4 com-

Nile, hills

el seq.

Olivine,
401.

of

in Arabia, 26.

Nellut

perature

130

of search for sources

of,

Oxen,

trices of,
|

526.

Ox-hides, purchase
bivouac, 517.

of, for

coverlets for

INDEX.

592

as a Nile tributary, 523 ;

banks of, 524
of the
ib. \
near,
plentifulness of corn
country round, a mine of wealth, if

p.

riority

of,

monotony
PALMS, on the banks of the Nile, 550.
of simoom, 17
Paper, effect on,

shonld be tinted, for use in tropical

climates, 541.

Par-

Francolin

(see

Partridges
tridges).

Patriarch, a desert
Abou Sinn).

Sheik Achmet

(see

Perfumery, Arab women's love

peculiar
Petherick,

mode

of,

117;

planted with cotton, 525 exhausting

march along the banks of, 526 ; flies
torture the camels, 527.
;

Arab

Rabat,

worn by women,

kilt,

124.

Rains, commencement of, 21 ; sources

of the Nile, 53 ; first experience of,
disadvanwith thunderstorm, 60
deluge
tages of, to the traveller, ib.
of, 105
migration of people and
;

of using, 118.

Mr., English Consul at

Khartoum, absence of, in search of

Speke and Grant, 556.

Philae ruins, peculiar situation of, 1
misery of the land in the vicinity of,

2.

Pigeons, shooting at Gozerajup, 57.

486 ;
Pigs, two rhinoceros disturbed by,
forbidden to be eaten by the Khoran,
166.

camels caused by, 107 etseq.

daily
tremendous
storms of, 135, 153
on
the
effect
147
of,
deluge of,
time of ceasing, 185
soil, 153, 180
last of the season, 209 ; absolute de pendence may be placed on the periodical return of, 549.
;

Rapids, on Settite river, accident to

two Arab

Pilgrimages of Tokvooris to Mecca,

the cause of their settlement at
Gallabat, 509.
"
chibbook," of the Turks, want
Pipe,
of, as a camp luxury, 153.
Pistols, bursting of a pair, sent as a
to Mek Nimmur, 461.

present
frequent apPlague, causes of, 161
pearance of, among pilgrims, ib.
Poisonous, plant (Asclepias gigantea),
30 quality of water, 460.
Polygamy, Wat el Negur's discussion
;

on, 263

et seq.

Pomade, Arab,

117.

Pools, of Atbara river, largest at Collodobad, 36 ; asylums for all animals

in time of drought, 34 ; danger of
drinking the water left in, 269.
Prayers, evening, of the Arab, 67.
Priesthood, fears of being influenced
against all Europeans, by their dislike to the missionaries, 504.

Pyramids, designs for, taken from

in the desert, 14.

Python

(see

Boa

extraordigirls on, 258

nary escape of one, 259.
el
Ras
head,"
Feel, "elephant's
mountain, 499.
Regly plant, salad of, 175.

Reilly

great power of, 293.

Arab fondness for, 159 danger

rifle,

Relics,
of,

160 etseq.

strong feeling for, among

Arabs, 129
unchanged belief regarding, of Arabs, 131 ; discussions
on, with Fakeers, 267.
Reservoirs for the Nile water, advan-

Religion,

tages of being formed throughout

Egypt, 565.
Reveet, food obtained from elephants,
usefulness of, during a long march,
536.
Revenues of Upper Egypt, how might
be increased, 512.
Rhinoceros, descriptions of the varieties of, 364 et seq. ; teeth of, peculiar,
horns of, protection to the
365
animal, 364
exciting chase after,
;

hills

Constrictor.)

seven huntsmen fairly

359 et seq.
beaten by, 362
enjoyment of the
;

run,
Q.

et seq.

363,

manner

of trap-

ping, 366 et seq. ; dangerous proximity to, and flight from two, 387
et seq.
tracking and encounter with,
405 et seq. detaching the hide, 407
;

QUICKSILVER, use of, in making bullets, 284

large supply of, necessary
;

to African traveller, 541.

Quinine, cure of fever by, 70.

B,

shooting, 442, 486, et seq.

Richarn, Florian's black servant, 194
wounded by a boar, 331.
" Rifle and Hound
in Ceylon," description of habits of elephants given in,
530.
Rifles, carried by Sir S. Baker, 151
;

RAHAD RIVER,

exhausting march to,

eagerness of the men for drink on
fishing in, ib. ; infereaching, 522
;

cleaning of, 447 providential escape

of Sir S. Baker from an accident, by
blowing up of one, 448.
;

INDEX.
Rivers of Abyssinia explored by Sir S.
Baker, 280 ; character of all, 549.
Robbery by Achmet, the dragoman's
"relative," 207
by Mini, the camel
;

driver, of Wat Gamma's dollars, 514 ;

Sir S. Baker's plan of discovering,

515.

Rocks, varieties and appearance of,

one still reof basalt, 400
376
maining placed as a seat by Sir S.
;

Baker, 150.
Roofal tribe, civility

525.

Gazelle and

Aggahr near, 521.

Route from Korosko to Abou Hammed closed by order of Said Pasha,
15
reopened on application by
;

ib.

foreign consuls,
ib.

sufferings

time occupied

14.

of,

river,

Sinn, 551

kind reception

at, ib.

S.

SACRIFICES of Arabs, peculiarity of,

202 relics of the ancient rite, 137.
;

Saddles of Arabs, 242, 243.

Sageer, water-wheel of the Nile, 549
tax on, 562 ; insufficiency of, for the

work required, 563.

Sahara, why a desert, 572.
Said Pasha, ordered route
Korosko and Abou

between

Hammed

to be

closed, 15.
river,

Sesame grain,
Settite

river,

oil

made from,

tributary of

50.

the Nile,

280 course through Base country,

80 junction with the Atbara, 136
principal stream of Abyssinia, 138
excursion of Sir S. Baker to, from
Ehetilla, 216 et seq. ; bivouac near,
245
beauty of the country near,
334 ; beautiful appearance of, at the
pass between the cliffs of Geera, 245 ;
appearance of, where joined by the
Hor Mehetape, 400 ; effect of, on the
Nile, 468; creates the Delta of
Lower Egypt, 499 ; a new Egypt
;

created

by deposits from,

ib.

Sheik AchmetAbou Sinn, the great Arab

patriarch in authority over all the
other denominations of Arabs, 75 ;
visit of, to Sir S. Baker, 110; magnificent appearance of, 111 ; hospitality of, ib. ; his encampment in the
desert, 112 et seq. ; his reception of
Sir S. Baker, 113 ; his retinue, 112;

advice given by, 114; enormous

consumption of butter by, 116; his
ten sons, 112 his last marriage, 116;
departure from the encampment of,
132 et seq.
Sheik Achmet "Wat el Negur, chief ot
"Wat el Negur, wise policy of, 247
;

particular request of, to Sir S. Baker,

249
hospitality and character of,
visits of, to the camp, 261
disib.
cussions with, and opinions of, about
&c.
&c.
262
et
women, England,
seq.
duties of the four wives of, 265 ;
that
on
Sir
S.
hearing
surprise of,
;

Salaam

tributary of the Nile,

280 ; assistance given by Mek Nimmur in exploring, 459 arrival at,
465 ; similarity of, to the Settite,
466 ; encampment on the bank of,
destructive effect of water
ib. ;
seen on the rocky banks of, 468 ;
effect' of, on the Nile, ib.
;

"Salaam aleikum," Arab

salutation,

110.

Sand-banks, only means of cultivation

at Assouan, 2.
Sand columns, causes and curious
Arab superstitions
effects of, 23
connected with, ib.
exaggerated
dread entertained of, by Bruce, 24.
Sand-grouse, cry of in the desert, 30
;

worthlessness

Secretary bird, Arab name for, 60.

camel's
Senna, where grown, 73;
"bonne bouche," ib.
torture of,
Serootfly, ferocity of, 184
196 giraffes attacked by, 189 disappearance of, 210

tributary of the Nile,

arrival at, 428
description of, 429,
432
encampment near, ib. ; description of effect of rain on country
its junction with the
near, 432
Settite, frightful scene at, in rainy
440
weather,
rapid course of, ib. ;
effect of, on the Nile, 468.
Rufaar, head-quarters of Sheik Abou

Royan

between Gallabat
and river Rahad, arrival at, 520
death of
scarcity of water at, ib.

in,

the cheeks, custom of,

Scarifying
among Arabs, 273.
Scorpions, bite of, 104 discovery 01
a nest of, under the camp, brought
out by rain, 106.
Seasons, alternations of, 146, 147, 561 ;
proper for travelling, 135, 559.

of,

last village

Roumele,

593

of,

as game,

ib.

Baker had only one

tects

Mek

Avife, 263
proBaker's property from
taken
leave
278
Nimmur,
;
of,
;

Sir S.

285.

Sheik Ali, grandson of Sheik Abou

Sinn, sent as guide to Sir S. Baker,
132.

Sheik Atalan Wat Said, chief of the

Dabainas tribe, 136
reception by,
137 ; ivitation of, ib. escort of, to
Sofi, 141
promises of assistance
from, 143; death of, how caused,
;

227.

Q Q

INDEX.

594

Sheik Hassan bel Kader, chief of Sofi,

cured of fever, by Sir S. Baker, 164
celebrated hippopotamus hunter, 234.
Sheik Jemuia, cliief of Gallabat, illness
a
from impure water, 507
of,
his coldness on reading
Tokroori, ib
;

the firman, reasons for, ib.

requests
goat's milk, ib.
promises to assist in
camels
and
fresh
men,
procuring
;

way in which he became sheik,

by help of Theodore, king of Abysdeclared by Theodore,
sinia, ib.
508

sheik over all Tokrooris, 509.

Sheik Moosa, of the Haddendowas, imprisonment of, 75.

Sherrem, large village on the Rahad,
meeting of the men with their famirest at, for two days,
lies at, 526
;

ib.

'.

Sherif el Ibrahim, large village, excursion to, 244

productiveness of land
;

ib.

near,
Sherrifs, four

433, et seq.
Shields, Arab, made of
rhinoceros skins, 168.

giraffe

and

German

met

settler

extracts from journal, descriptive of life at, 175 et seq. ; laws

of, 181 ; resolve to leave, 204.
;

Soojalup, first watering place on the

route to Cassala, arrival at, 62
description of country round, ib.
contrivance for watering cattle at,
63; Ariel (Gazelle Dama) first seen
;

at, 63
jungles round,
with guinea fowl, ib.

swarming

departure
from, 64.
Soorit (see Acacia Arabica), 529.
Souakim, route to Cassala by way of,
72
present uncertainty of steamers
merchants afraid of
arriving at, ib.
;

delay and high warehouse charges

value of direct steam comat, 73
munication between, and Suez, 273.
Soudan, exports of, 73, 74, 562 prinannexation of, to
cipal towns of, 74
fertility of,
Egypt, necessary, 75
77
cheapness of grain in, ib. goorders
Mek Kimof,
vernor-general
mur's territory to be invaded, 444
Egyptian troops in, 560 aspect of
;

wretchedness, 562.

immense quantities of beautiful,

on the hills, on the route from Om-

Spar,

brega, 450.

Spinach, wild, 175.

Ariel (G.
Stalking, wild asses, 55
nellut
Dama), 86
antelopes, 64
;

Shoes, necessity for strong, on account

of the thorny grass, 182
pair of
Highland shooting, of great value,
242.
Shookeriyahs, one of the most powerful
tribes of Upper Egypt, from which
;

Sheik AbouSinn descended, 115.

Signer Georgis, Greek army doctor, at
kindness to Sir S.
Cassala, his
Baker, 70.

tetel (A.
377
ubalis), 218, 308 giraffes, 188, 194
(see Hunting).
Storks, curious hunting party met, of
common black and white, 547.
Sulieman, one of the aggageers (swordhunters) of the party, 296.
Sunstroke, slight attack of, Bacheet, on
the march from Rataan to Khartoum,

(A.

Strepsiceros),

553.

Silk, vegetable, procured

giyantea plant, 30.

in

149

of,

142

at,

famous brothers, Hamran

hunters, accompany the hunting expedition, 282, 355.
Sherrif, Roder, one of four famous
brother hunters, maimed condition
feats of, 359 etseq., 437.
of, 282
Sherrif, Taher, one of four famous
brother hunters, feats of, 359, 362,

Simoom

walk

Nubian

from Asclepias

desert, 7

damage

done by, 17, 54.

Slaves, obtained by plunder of the Base
country, 81 ; Masara or Sarah, one
hired 'at Sofi, 214 ; purchase of
Barrake, 274

considered necessary
inhabitants of

by Arab women, 125

Swords, principal weapon used by aggageers, 167 ; value of, to Arabs, 169
description of, 170 manner of huntdanger of, to the
ing with, 171
hunter himself, 174 elephant killed

Kordofan prized as, 273 proprietor's

care of, 274 beauty of those brought
from Galla, 516.
lime necessary for,
So.ipmaking, 424
how obtained, 424 fruit of hegleek
tree used by Arabs as, 368.
Son, arrival at. 142
description of,
144
residence at,
during rainy
season, 152 et seq.
permanent camp
bought at, 148
description of an
;

when

shot failed, 327.

Sycamore (Ficus sycamorus), tempting

by

one,

shade

of,

Syphilis,

502.

common

country, 166.
Syringe, necessity
541.

of,

throughout

the

to the traveller,

"eligible freehold" within a minute's

TACCAZZY, Abyssinian name

for Settite

river, 138.

Taher Koor, game -tracker accompanying the hunting expedition, 288, 296.

Taka country,

situation

of,

59

pic-

INDEX.
turesqueness

72

of,

productions

six servants engaged, to accompany

Sir S. Baker's hunting expedition,
274 ; start with him, 296 ; seized
with panic, desire to desert, 348 etseq. ;
checkmated by Sir S. Baker, 352 ;

of,

73.

Tamarind

baboons occupying,
trees,
177; bivouac under, at Ombrega, 444.
Tarpaulin, necessity of, to travellers,
541.
Tarboosh (cap) presented to one of Mek

country inhabited exclusively by,

497 wonder of some, 011 hearing of
the exploits in the Base country,
498 natives of Darfur, 509 appearance of, 509, 511
taxes paid by,
507 industry of, 510 weapons of,
how
bad as servants, 510
511
settled at Gallabat, 509
cotton produced by, 511 women of the tribe,
ib.
much might be done for improvement of, 512 permission gran ted
to, by Theodore, to settle in his terfarewell entertainment
ritory, 509
;

Nimmur's men,

447.
Tatham, all fire-arms with the name,
burst, 461.
Taxes, equal on rich and poor districts,
3 ; bad effect of, in preventing cultivation of land, 76 ; injustice of taxcollectors, ib. ; paid by Tokrooris to
the King of Abyssinia, 507, 509:

Nile, 562.

Temperature, of the different spots

in the desert, 5, 6, 17.
visited, 561
Temples, ruins of, on the banks of the
;

3.

Tetch, intoxicating drink of the Arabs,

given to, 513; Sir S. Baker parts

with the servants, 517 ; unprovoked
insolence of natives of a Tokroori
a fight with, ib.
village, 518 et seq.
Tomat, head-quarters of Atalan Wat
;

513.

species of antelope, hide of,

valuable as leather, 181; shooting,
men and cargo floated
192, 198
across the river by means of the
waterproof skin of a, 200 bull killed
by Abou Do, the aggageer, 308.
Tetel, name of trained hunter pur-

Tetel,

Said, interesting appearance

Tool-box, contents

chased by Sir S. Baker, 242 brave

advance of, in face of a lion, 422.
Theodore, King of Abyssinia, advan;

tages to, of Mek Nimmur's frontier

warfare, 279
friendship of, with
Mek Nimmur, 280, 444 ; dislike of,
to missionaries, 504
grants permission to the Tokrooris to settle in his
;

countiy, 509
places Sheik Jemma
in power, in opposition to Egyptian
government, 508 et seq.
quarrels
with Moosa Pasha, "and is threatened

of,

136.

necessary to a

Tracking of elephants, 288 et seq.,

304, 320 et seq. of rhinoceros, 405
of elephants, 433.
of lions, 414
Travelling, hints for comfort in, 539

et seq. ; articles useful for, in tropical

climates, 541.
Turtle, struggle with a, while fishing
in Atbara pool, 45 ; appearance of,
in water, 46 ; guitar made of shell,
203 ; omelette made of eggs of, 374 :

soup of, ib.

Turkish soldiers

procured as escorts

at Berber, 25.

of,

traveller, 247.

by him, 559

onerous, on the water-wheel of the

Nile,

595

Tusks, absence of. in Ceylon elephants,

530 difficult to obtain an exact pair
;

of,

533.

et seq.

Thorns, caused by grass drying, sufferkittar bush, 103

ing from, 236
name "mother of the thorn," 301.
Thunder, first time heard in Africa, 60,
effects of a storm of, 92 halt caused
by, 104 etseq,
Tick,
'ick, insect inhabiting sand and dust,
supposed connexion of, with the
;

U.

UMBRELLAS

(carriage), description
necessary for travelling, 540.

of,

Egyptian plague of

122.

lice,

Till, rivulet, tributary of Atbara, exhaustion of, by the fall of the Atbara,
and retirement of fish from, 211
source of, 245.
;

236

Tobacco, sowing of,

of, 376
production
of the Rahad, 524.
;

of,

plantations

on the banks

camp

for

VALLEY of dry bones"

at Moorahd, 10.

Vegetables, wild, great abundance of,

226.
Vogel, Dr. search For, by Herr Von
Heuglin, 543.
Volcanic bombs, resembling cannon shot,
in the Nubian desert, 6, 7.
hills in Nubian desert, 6.
Vultures, sudden descent of, 88
question, whether attracted by vision or

Volcanic

a night at, 499

evening scene, last view of Atbara
river from, ib.
start from, '501.
Tokrooris, tribe of Mahometan negroes,

Toganai,

V.
"

different species of, 493

interesting experiments in watching,

smell, 492

493

et seq.

INDEX.

596
W.

151,

not high, 83.

Waker, wild vegetable, in great use
among Arabs, soup of, 226 well
known in India and Ceylon, under
different names, ib.
Wat el Negur, village, 243 reasons
;

desirable
for
encampment,
of the Sheik of, 247;
capabilities of the country round, for

why
248

wisdom

249

cultivation,
at,

254

ct seq.
of,

for

to the hun er ,
539, 540 ; of Hamran Arab
sword -hunters, 168 et seq.

Weapons, most useful

WAGES

262

elephant-hunting

pleasant life at, 266

discussions with the Sheik

et seq.

etseq.

the

preparations

made

at,

284 ;
the Base

hunting expedition,

from, to explore
eountoy, 285.
"Water, evaporation of, from skins, by
blast of simoom, 5 ; scarcity of, at
Moorahd, 11 after washing, drunk by
constant supply of, how
Arabs, ib.
to ensure, 36
length of time camels
start

can endure without, 448-; poisonous nature of, from copper, in Mek
Nimmur's district, 460 destructive
effect of, on solid rocks, 468 impurity
of, at Gallabat, 502
great sickness,
;

inconsequence of impure, 507.

over perpendicular
columns, appearance of, 497.

Waterfall

basalt

"Water-jar, of Arabs, similarity of, to

to those in use a thousand years

Weaving, Arab method

of,

65.

Weirs, across Eahad and Binder rivers,

for
549
irrigation, necessity of,
across the Nile, advantages of form-

ing, 565.

Arab, customs connected

227
magnificence of
that given by Sheik Abou Sinn to

Welcome,
with,

137,

Sir S. Baker/ 113.

Wells of Arabs, 131

insufficient for

the cattle, 270.

Whirlwinds in the desert, sand columns
raised by, 23 nearly suffocated by
one, 51.
White ants, use made of a hill of,
424.
White Nile, resolution to explore, 574
;

preparations for exploring completed,

ib.
start towards the source of, ib.
Wild asses, first .sight of, 55 ; habits
and beauty of, 56 difficulty of cap;

turing, ib. ; first and last killed by

Sir S. Baker, ib. ; rissoles of the
flesh, 57.

Willow, species of, on the banks of

Atbara river, 239.
AVire useful to the traveller for springs,
541.
Wives, Wat el Negur's discussion and

opinions on, 262 et seq.

Arab, corn ground by, 78*;
dislike of all, to the work, 79 their
love for perfumery, 118; uncleandress and
ness of, 122 et seq.

Women,

ago, 129.

Waterproof sheeting,

of

use

in tra-

velling, 541.

Wat Gamma, young Arab

attendant,

procured at Cassala, origin of his

name, 82 consternation of, at the
failure of the present to Mek Nimmur,
461
robbed of his dollars, 533.
;

Wat Medene,

large town, and principal

trading place, on the banks of the
Blue Nile, 548.

R.

CLAY, SOX,

marriage
appearance of, 124, 265
125
adherence of, to ancient
of,
Wat
265
127
of,
customs,
bathing
el Negur's discussion on, 262 et seq.
ignorance of,
superstitions of 273
265
plainness and industry of
;

Tokroori, 511.

AND TAYLOR, PRINTERS, LONDON.

SEP

DiSC.
1387

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