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Wandering in Norfolk
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Rising seas drown and bury but they can also scour and
exhume. John Lorimer was a beach comber. One of his combing
haunts was the coastal sands at Holme next the Sea, north-east
of Hunstanton, thirty odd miles west of Cromer. In spring 1998
John found a Bronze Age axe head. Then, on a return search and
to his surprise, he came across a large, apparently up-turned
tree trunk sticking out of the low tidal waters. It looked very
odd and out of place. Later visits revealed yet more buried
post-shaped tree trunks. It gradually became apparent that the
emerging posts formed a circle, nearly seven metres in diameter,
around the large, central up-turned tree trunk. The ever-keen,
ever-helpful Castle Museum in Norwich agreed to take a look
at this curious beach find.
The Museum asked one of the countys archaeologists,
Edwin Rose, to meet John and examine the strange circle of
wooden posts. Edwins initial thought was that the posts might
be Anglo-Saxon fish traps, but he wasnt sure. So he contacted
English Heritage who decided to carry out a full excavation
beginning in 1999.
Samples of the wood sent to Sheffield University established
that the structure was of Early Bronze Age, dating back about
4,000 years ago. The posts were dug into what originally
would have been salt marshes surrounded by sand dunes and
mudflats. Stone axes had been used to fell and shape the timber.
In total, 55 oak posts, 3 metres long, were sunk a metre into
what were then marsh silts forming a circle around the very
large inverted base of the centrally placed tree trunk.
The people who built the circle were farmers. They grew
wheat and barley, and grazed sheep and cattle. They lived in
wooden round houses with walls made of wattle and daub, and
roofs of timber thatched with reeds.
Over the centuries, the area where they had built the circle
changed from salt marsh to waterlogged wetland. The Bronze
Age farmers moved further inland. The 55 wooden posts and
pivotal tree trunk became buried under layers of peat. Boggy
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Wandering in Norfolk
peats are anaerobic. They lack oxygen and this helps preserve
anything organic, including wooden posts, which finds itself
buried beneath the decaying vegetation.
The sea though, was never very far away. Water levels, then
as now, carried on rising. The sea encroached further inland,
washing away the dunes, flooding the peats and burying the
posts beneath the sea-borne sands. The North Sea, ever-restless,
continued to wear and tear at the low-lying coast, stripping and
washing away the layers of peat until 4,000 years later, in 1998,
the posts surfaced once more.
Archaeologists are not entirely sure what the circle was for.
One possibility is that it was constructed after the death of an
important tribesperson. The dead body would have been placed
on the flat surface of the central, up-turned tree stump. Birds
and other scavengers would pick the bones clean. Eventually,
the skeleton would be removed and taken for a final burial
elsewhere.
When the press got hold of the story of the find and the
dig, they quickly dubbed the timber circle Seahenge. Like
Stonehenge, the structure is circular and possibly had something
to do with burying the dead, but thats where the similarities
end. Seahenge is a wooden construction. It is relatively small in
scale. It is a few centuries younger than its stone cousin.
These differences werent enough to put off New Age pagans,
including Rollo Maughfling, self-proclaimed Archdruid of
Stonehenge and Glastonbury. The druids and pagans claimed
that the henge was theirs by spiritual right and that moving
the timbers would destroy the circles power and significance.
They wanted the posts left where they were, on the beach. A
number of local people also objected to the plan to excavate the
henge and remove it to a museum. It was good for tourism,
they said.
However, the North Norfolk Coast is also an internationally
recognised nature reserve, rich in birdlife. The naturalists were
worried that increased visitor numbers would be bad for the
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Wandering in Norfolk
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sea. The itinerant rocks now found themselves set free and
abandoned far from their home in the gravels of North Norfolk,
on the beaches of Sheringham and Cromer, and the spits of
Blakeney and Scolt. Most had hitched rides on the greatest of
the Quaternary Ice Sheets, the 450,000 year old and fittingly
named Anglian. We now call these alien pebbles of Caledonian
granite, Highland gneisses and Scandinavian plutonics erratics,
or even more formally, allochthyonous rocks. (See Plate 21) They
are vastly outnumbered by the pebbles of flint that have been
released locally from the underlying chalk by ice and water.
Perhaps the most distinctive, the most rare, and to my eye
most beautiful of these very occasional, far travelled strangers
is the polished, silvery blue-black rock known as larvikite. It
is packed with shimmering, schillerising crystals of feldspar,
bleached grey, white and light sandy brown by sun and sea.
Larvikite is only found in Norway near the town of Larvik
south of Oslo.
Larvikite is an igneous rock. It formed from molten magma
deep under the Earths crust. There it cooled very slowly
allowing big, glittering crystals of feldspar to grow. All of this
took place nearly 300 million years ago beneath a new mountain
range that was being pushed up along an ancient continental
edge. The chain ran from what is now North West Ireland across
the Central Highlands of Scotland over to Norway.
Over the hundreds of millions of years since, the mountains
of North West Ireland, Scotland and Norway have been worn
down by ice, wind and rain to reveal their igneous roots,
including the Scandinavian rock we call larvikite. During the
Quaternary Ice Ages, frost-shattered fragments of the larvikite
peaks fell into the ice below. They were carried away, out across
the frozen wastes of the North Sea Basin. When the ice sheets
eventually melted, a few, just a precious few of these larvikite
rocks found themselves dumped far from home, cast amongst
the sands and boulder clays or tumbling along in the glacial
meltwaters or left to roll in the waves of the deepening North
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Wandering in Norfolk
the massive weight of ice that depressed its mountains and glens
as it lay under the Devensian Ice Sheets. All of which means
that sea levels around the coasts of southern England and East
Anglia are rising millimetre by millimetre, year on year.
Without protection the silty, boulder clay cliffs of Sheringham
are easy prey to the clawing waves of the North Sea. In bad
winters, the sea can claim many metres of any land left exposed,
naked and without defences.
Sheringham town rests between two small hills. To the east
is the Beeston Bump as denoted on OS maps or Beeston Hill as
many Sheringhamians prefer to call it. And to the west is the
higher Skelding Hill rising 170 feet above the beach and the sea.
It is capped by an observation hut which was once a former
coast guard station but is now a look-out post maintained by
the local coastal watch group. Sloping off south and west of the
hill are the greens of Sheringham Golf Club.
The town is protected from coastal erosion by a concrete
sea wall which also serves as a promenade. To beef up these
defences, 20,000 tons of Norwegian larvikite have been
shipped across the North Sea and massed on the beach against
the seawall. Each block of rock armour as the Environment
Agency calls them, weighs 8.5 tons.
So Sheringham is safe behind its walls of concrete and its
rock defences. And even though I failed to find any Norwegian
erratics, I am surrounded by thousands of tons of Scandinavian
larvikite. The older blocks have weathered a pale sandy-white
and pale grey, although the feldspar crystals still sparkle in the
sunlight. Of course I am not alone in my love of the shimmering
silvery blue rock. You can see it along any high street. It is
the polished rock face of choice for many shops and banks,
especially banks, inside and out. Caf counters, pubs and bars
all love it. In fact in 2008, so great was the petrological pride of
Norwegians, they voted larvikite their national rock. Of course,
they might be the only country in the world to have a national
rock. Does the UK have one? If so, what could it possibly be?
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Wandering in Norfolk
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