RP007A: COCOON COAT

MARKING THE MATERIAL (corner points)

1.1 Once you have cut each pattern piece in the corresponding
material, start to mark your corner points. Mark each corner
point of all the pattern pieces with chalk on the WRONG SIDE of
your material. Tip: This will allow you to match up your material
pattern pieces at a later date. It will also give you a point at which
to stop sewing your seams when joining panels together. This
produces cleaner more accurate garments especially when
joining multiple or complex seams.

CENTER BACK

1.2 Transfer all top stitching lines on the pattern pieces to the
material. Tip: You can make this process easier by using a
TRACING WHEEL. You can do this by laying your paper pattern
pieces on top of your material, then tracing the lines with the
tracing wheel. Once you have removed the paper pattern, mark
the material with chalk along the faint dotted lines left by the
tracing wheel.
EL
G WHE
TRACIN

CHALK

DIFFICULTY

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INTERFACING:
1.3 Interface all panels, as indicated, on paper pattern pieces. If
your material is particularly thick or heavy use a lighter interfacing. Vilene is a good exampe of iron-on interfacing, Using a hot
iron (no steam,) press heavily and iron the interfacing to the
wrong side of your material. Check that it is attached firmly and
does not peel off when cool.

CENTER BACK

INTERFACING MARKED AS BLUE CIRCULAR FILL

ON ALL PATTERN PIECES.

COAT SHELL CONSTRUCTION:

2.1 Start by adding pleats to back panel B. Use arrows to fold 2.3 Once top stitched, attach panel A (back yoke) to pleated
the material. Fold in the direction of arrow from point to point. panel B, matching all notches and corner points.
Press whole pleat from top to bottom with an iron and temporarily secure pleat with hand tacking. Machine stitch roughly 3-4cm
from the top down each pleat. This acts as a decorative stitch
and will permanently secure each pleat. DO THE SAME FOR
LINING PANEL I.

KCAB

BACK

BACK

PLEAT

PLEAT

PLEAT

Press open seam and clip seam allowance to corner points.

B
2.5 Join panel AB to panel C, matching all notches.

CENTER BACK & FOLD LINE

2.2 Top stitch panel A in decorative thread, as indicated on

paper pattern.

CENTRE BACK

2.6 Join bottom seams together to form cocoon shape.

B
C

3.3 Attach panels F together at centre back press open seams

and snip to corner points.
3.4 Attach panels F to panel G, matching notches. Press open
seams and snip to corner points.
3.4 Attach remaining collar panel E to F panels, as in sec 3.2.
Match notches, press open seams and snip corner points.

C
CE

NT
ER

BA

CK

Press open seams and

snip to corner points.

C
E

F
POCKETS:
4.1 Fold panel S along fold line, right sides facing together.
Stitch seams together to form a pocket. Press open seams snip
corner points and turn right side out.

FOLD LINE

FOLD LINE

2.7 Connect shoulder seams together to form the coat shell.

FOLD LINE

4.2 Once turned inside out, top stich with decorative thread the
originally marked lines.

FOLD LINE

COLLAR CONSTRUCTION:
3.1 Attach panel D to panel E, matching notches. Press open
seams and snip to corner points.
3.6 Attach panel S to Q1 with right sides facing, as in diagram
below.

RI

Q1

GH

E B

TS

ID

3.2 Attach panels DE to coat shell, right sides facing together.

Press open seams and cut to points.

Q1

WRONG SIDE

3.7 Interface pocket opening on wrong side of coat shell, see

paper pattern for size, shape and positioning.

C
E

A
3.8 With right sides facing attach SQ1 to the bottom edge of the
pocket opening. Stitch from point to point. Attach Q2 to the top
edge of the pocket opening.

SIDE SEAM SEAM ALLOWANCE

Q2

3.11 You will have two small triangular pieces of material that
are left over from cutting the slit in your coat shell. You will need
to neatly fold these back on themselves, then press lightly with
an iron to create a neat fold line.

Q2
Q1

WRONG SIDE/ INSIDE

Q2
Q1

Q2

3.9 On the wrong side of the coat shell, carefully cut along pink
dotted lines all the way up each corner point. Make sure you do
not cut past previously stitched lines. See diagram.
SIDE SEAM SEAM ALLOWANCE

Q2

Q1

Q2
Q1

3.12 Fold panel Q2 down over Panel Q1, match seams and pin together.

Q2
WRONG SIDE/ INSIDE
WRONG SIDE/ INSIDE
3.13 On the right side of the coat shell, fold the coat shell back at the pocket
outline edge. This will expose the triangular flaps and pocket bag (Q1 Q2) seam
allowance. See diagram below.

Q2

Q2

s
Q1

WRONG SIDE/ INSIDE

RIGHT SIDE

Q1

Q1

TRIANGL
TO EXPOSE
FOLDED BACK WANCE
COAT SHELL
G SEAM ALLO
BA
ET
CK
PO
AND

3.10 Pull panels Q1 and Q2, through the pocket hole, to the
wrong side or inside of the coat shell. Leave panel S on the
outside of the coat shell.
Press all seams open.

E FLAPS

Q2

Q2

3.14 Stitch Q1 Q2 and flaps together along seam allowance.

4.3 Join underarm seams together on each sleeve, stitch as marked in diagram,
press open seams and snip to corner points. Do the same for panels L and M

Q1

4.4 Place sleeve inside

coat armhole, right sides
facing, matching notches.
Be aware that FRONT of
sleeve needs to match
FRONT of coat shell.
3.15 On the right side of your coat, top stitch your pocket flap to the coat shell.
This will finish your pocket.

4.5 Machine stitch around

the underside of the arm
hole from notch to notch.
This will secure your sleeve.
The sleeve head needs to
be eased into the armhole
on the coat.
4.6 Using a small running
stitch, hand sew the sleeve
head from notch to notch.
Make sure your stitches are
within the seam allowance.

RIGHT SIDE
SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION:
4.1 Attach panel J to panel K, matching notches. Attach panel L (lining) to the
remaining panel K.

X2

K
J

4.7 Pull the loose end of your running stitch so that the sleeve head gathers
slightly from notch to notch. Carefully ease the sleeve head to fit the armhole by
controlling the amount of gather the running stitch creates. It is advised to press
and shape the sleeve head, curling it over your fingers. There should be no
visible pleating around any part of the armhole /sleeve head.

X2
4.2 Topstitch panel K with decorative thread as marked on paper pattern.

K
J

Tip: Most ease

should be made in
the cap of the
sleeve,
gathering
and forming it to sit
on
top
of
the
shoulder. Take a
look at another coat
to see in detail how
the cap sits on the
shoulder.
Once the sleeve has
been eased in and
sits evenly, pin and
machine sew the
remainer
of
the
armhole.

LINING CONSTRUCTION:
5.1 Attach panel H to panel I, sew shoulders and side seams and join the
bottom seam to form a cocoon shape. Press open seams and snip to corner
points.

FINISHING SLEEVES:
6.1 With right sides facing, slip sleeve lining over coat sleeve. Match notches
and seams along cuff of garment and pin all the way around the cuff.

6.2 Machine stitch all the way around bottom edge or cuff of sleeve. Press open
seams and snip curved edges.

5.2 Attach panel HI to panels F, matching notches. Press open seams and snip
to corner points.

H F

6.4 Turn sleeve right side out and

push sleeve lining inside the coat
sleeve. Press cuff with an iron, to
create a crisp edge.

6.5 Attach coat lining to coat, right sides facing, matching seams and notches.
Stitch all the way round the collar and revere, leaving a 30cm gap near the base
of the garment. Press open all seams.
COAT SHELL LAYER

6.7 Attach sleeve lining to coat lining at the armhole, matching all notches and
seams.

LINING LAYER

6.8 Carefully tuck seam allowance of gap inside coat and press with an iron to
achieve a crisp smooth edge. Hand sew using invisible stitch to close gap.

6.9 To finish the coat, use a decorative thread and top stitch originally marked
lines on the collar and revere. Tip: It is recommended to pad stitch the coat,
collar and revere facings together before topstitching. This will keep the lining
and coat in place while top stitching. Otherwise, the lining and coat may move,
causing mis-alignment of panels.

PAD STITCH COLLAR, REVERE AND CUFFS

6.6 Turn the coat right side out by pulling the coat and lining through the gap in
the base of the coat that has been left unsewn.

FIN