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Deep Water Soloing in Dalmatia

Deep water soloing over the years has become one very popular way for
dalmatian climbers to do a good training without sweating due to high
temperatures in the summer time. Here in Dalmatia we are blessed to
have who-knows-how-many locations for practicing this way of climbing
since this is a country with 1000 islands and interesting thing is that
almost every island has vertical or overhanging cliffs on its south side.
Very important thing to say about Dalmatian deep water soloing is that
we have very friendly sea with practicly no danger from it. We have red
so many articles from all over the world, especially Mallorca and Dorset,
and main problem for people over there are jellyfish which may become
very dangerous for climbers or any humans. Adriatic sea doesnt have so
many jellyfish, and the one we do have are so rear and not so dangerous. We do not have dangerous sharks or any other life treating danger
living in the Adriatic.
Short history of DWS in Croatia

First tracks of deep water solo in Croatia started in mid 90s in Split
town region, local area called Sustipan, where Dalmatian climbers came
and saw overhanging cliffs and immediately started to climb. Interesting
thing is that traditionally we climbed barefooted, without chalk. Because
of this, you needed some period of adaptation, specially for your feets
who would become bloody very often. It was brutal! Only beginners
were wearing climbing shoes until they adopted. Its so funny to remember those days. After Big up production movie Psihobloc DWS started
to become must-do-thing here, and it started to develop in lots of ways.
First we have realized that without climbing shoes we are limited with
hard routes. So we started to use them and it was a relief! The hardest routes in the region were instantly repeated(we are talking about
grades up to 7b+) and we were ready for new, harder and higher places.
Today we have climbers who are practicing only deep water soloing during the summer. They are opening new routes, exploring and developing new areas, preparing topos and waiting for strong climbers to come
again. Today we are climbing with chalk so we are even preparing bolts
under the specific lines, just above the sea surface so climbers can swim
to it, get out and dry, put some chalk and go. It is a different story and
we find it much more challenging this way.
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2005. best world climbers came to Croatia and went to Kornati archipelago (the best DWS area in Dalmatia). They spend couple of days
climbing in National park and they succeeded to climb the hardest DWS
route in the world until then, Ring of fire 8b+. This event has been recorded and distributed all over the world known as climbing movie DEPTHCHARGE. This was the spark that started DWS revolution in Croatia.
2006. we have been visited by World champion Tomas Mrazek who also
tried deep water solo for the first time.
Here we bring you some of the most popular Deep Water Solo areas
here in Dalmatia.
Locations for DWS in Dalmatia

1.
2.
2.
3.

Sustipan - Split area


Katalinka - Split area
Kasjuni - Split area
Ciovo

4. Hvar
5. Vis
6. Kornati Archipelago
- National Park

Sector Big Ciovo

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EUROPE

SPLIT AREA
SUSTIPAN

SUSTIPAN is the oldest DWS area in Croatia.


It is located in Split, near the city center. Cliffs
are mainly 6-10m high and the routes are
usually overhanging (or very overhanging)
with large holds. Right now there are about
20 routes up to 7c. For DWS on Sustipan you
don't necessarily need a boat because it is
possible to reach the cliffs from the neighboring beach.
How to get to Sustipan DWS area?
Sustipan is placed on the West side of main
harbour of city of Split. To get there you dont
need a boat, you can get there by the foot for
just 10 minutes from the center.
From main promenade you just follow the
road which lead to the west side of the harbour. There is ACY marina you will pass by,
and you will get to beautiful park called Sustipan. Once this was cemetery but today is
great place to chill out. You can find here
some slack liners in the summer!. The crag
is just below the park
and you can get there
easily, by the pool and
passing by the caff on
the beach.
It is the oldest and most
popular DWS area in
Split and there is not to
many potential for new
lines, the best has been
already climbed.

CROATIA

DALMATIA

SPLIT

Tomas Mrazek, Project, Sustipan


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I.Franceschi, Psihotest 6a, Sustipan, Split

Sustipan, Split

Sustipan, Split

Sector A

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Sector B

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I.Supic, Skalinada 6a, Ciovo

Sector A

1. Melita, 6c+, 9m, FA: J.Purko


2. Project, 9m
3. Psiho test, 6a, 9m, FA:
I.Franceschi
4. Meje blues livo, 6a+, 8m, FA:
S.Mateic
5. Meje blues, 6a+, 8m, FA:
S.Mateic
6. Meje blues desno, 6a+, 8m,
FA: S.Mateic
7. Roll the dice, 6c+, 9m, FA:
I.Franceschi
8. Norijev problem, 6c, 9m, FA:
I.Franceschi
A. Dalmatina, 6b+, 100m, FA:
I.Franceschi

Sector B

1. Laganica, 5c, 7m, FA: D.Piccini


2. As, 6a, 7m, FA: D.Piccini
3. Srecica, 6b+, 7m, FA: D.Piccini
4. Golubinjak, 6a, 7m, FA: I.Franceschi
5. Nesrecica, 6c, 7m, FA: D.Piccini
6. Zabluda, 7a, 7m, FA: I.Franceschi
7. Skuzaj Dani, 6c+, 7m, FA: B.Koracak
8. Grmi camuga i beraci pamuka, 7a, 7m, FA: I.Mihalj
9. Waka waka, 7b, 7m, FA; L.Trumbic
10. Cosa nostra/Sopranosi, 7a+,9m, FA: B.Koracak
11. Svadbeni uspon, 7c, 9m, FA: L.Trumbic
12. Hrvatska, 7a+, 8m, FA: I.Franceschi
13. Za stari tocak, 7a, 9m, FA: I.Franceschi
14. Los prsuto, 7a, 9m, FA: T.Mrazek
15. Witness the fatness, 6c+, FA: D.Supe
A. Norijeva precka, 7a, 20m, Traverse, FA: I.Franceschi
B. Ten years after, 7b, 20m, Travesre, FA: I.Franceschi
A.+B. Adrenalina, 7b+, 40m, Traverse, FA: D.Piccini

Sector A

Sector B

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SPLIT
KATALINKA

KATALINKA area is very small deep water solo area with just a dozen
routes, but very popular since its very easy to reach it from the city
harbour. The wall is not high, so its very nice for beginners with easy
grades too.
How to get there?
Katalinka is placed on the east side of the main city harbour so It is easiest to explain how to reach it from there. To get here you wont need
the boat, its reachable by foot, only ten minutes of walking from the
Split center. You just walk from the ferry station towards east, follow
the road which slightly goes uphill until you dont find yourself on the
bridge where from you can see main city beach, Bacvice. That hill you
are standing on is Katalinka, where on its south side lies our wall for
deep water solo.
Potential is not something this wall offers. All good lines has been
climbed and there is no room for more.
Note
Not every part of this wall is possible to climb due to very shal-

low water or very large boulders


inside of the water. Check the
depth before climbing!
Warning! During the morning
tides the sea depth is getting
shallow.
KATALINKA

1. Nekakvo lagano vino, 5b, 4m


2. Winesweeper, 5c, 4m
3. Gays&wines, 5c, 5m
4. Rupe vina, 4c, 4m
5. Adijabata vinskog plina, 5b, 4m
6. Klingon blood wine, 6a+, 6m
7. Solo for Matea, 6a, 7m
8. Ko rano rani vise vina grabi, 6b+/c, 9m
9. Lose vino, 6b+, 9m
10. Kutjevacka Grasevina, 6b, 9m
11. Skenderbeg, 6b+, 9m, FA: B.Koracak
12. Pijani brod, 7a, 9m
13. Loyhka vini, 6b, 9m
14. Wine leaching, 6a+, 5m
15. Bacchus, 6a+, 8m
16. Warm up the wine, 4c, 4m
A. Dalmacijavino, 6c, 20m, Traverse

Katalinka

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SPLIT

KASJUNI

KASJUNI area is very nice and popular city beach few km west from
Sustipan. It lies below Santine stine, very popular sport climbing area.
The wall itself is very friendly for beginners in deep water solo. Not too
high, lots of holds and very good structure of the rock and easy grades.
We definitely recommend this place!
APPROACH
The wall is very easy to approach from the road which goes West at Marjan peninsula. It is possible to reach the wall by swimming from Kasjuni
beach, or walk on the top of the wall from the main road, on the junction for Kasjuni beach down to the South following dirt road for just few
minutes. The wall lies spreading between the beach and Vila Dalmacija,
which is known in the history as Titos Vila, area where is forbidden to
swim.
Note
Not every part of this wall is possible to climb due to very shallow water
or very large boulders inside of the water.
Check the depth before climbing!

KASJUNI

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Stup, 5a, 4m, FA: D.Piccini


Plata, 5c, 7m, FA: D.Piccini
Brid, 6a, 7m, FA: D.Piccini
Pukotina, 5c, 7m, FA: D.Piccini
Kaktus, 5b, 5m, FA: D.Piccini

6. Veranda, 5a, 6m, FA: D.Piccini


7. Dalmatinka, 5b, 10m, FA: D.Piccini
8. Project, 10m
9. entada, 6b, 10m, FA: D.Piccini
10. Bunika, 5c, 10m, FA: D.Piccini

Kasjuni

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T.Piccini, Veranda 5a, Kasjuni

DWS at Kasjuni Area

V.Piccini, Skalinada 6a, Ciovo

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CIOVO

CIOVO is very close to Split area with a great DWS potential. Development of DWS started 2005. and there are just about 110 routes (5c-7c)
to climb there. Routes are usually much higher (up to 20m) than on
Sustipan area and climbing is more serious and dangerous. Certain sectors are impossible to climb without chalk! Possibilities for hard routes is
enormous!
There is 12 sectors so far and interesting thing about them is that
every one is different from the other by the height, rock formation, holds and color, so you feel like visiting completely different
area. There is a big number of projects here on Ciovo and we cant
wait for some strong climbers to come and climb some of those!
How to reach Ciovo?
Al do it is very probably the best deep water solo area in the region, it is
very hard to reach it without a boat and even if you get on the south side
of the island, the distance between sectors is to large to swim. By car
you can get to Gospa od Prizidnice, monastery which lies on the south
side of the island just by the vertical cliffs of Ciovo and you can have
there great day of swimming in the crystal clear sea with beautiful colors.

Sector Granit, Ciovo

Note!
Our company Avantura d.o.o. is organizing deep water solo
trips. Please do contact us for details!
SPLIT AREA

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Sector CRVENE STINE

SECTOR CRVENE STINE

1. Time out, 6c, 8m, FA: S.Whittall


2. Be strong, 7a+, 8m, FA: S.Whittall
3. Be sure, 7a, 8m, FA: S.Whittall
4. Up up and away, 6c+, 8m, FA: S.Whittall
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5. Into the blue, 6c, 8m, FA: S.Whittall


6. Dave Jones Locker want you!, 6c, 8m, FA: S.Whittall
7. Fish food, 5c, 8m, FA: S.Wwhittall

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Sector TRIANGLE

SECTOR TRIANGLE

1. Blue Fin tuna, 5b, FA: S.Whittall


2. Hot tuna, 5b, FA: S.Whittall
3. Sword fish, 6b, FA: S.Whittall
4. Skyhook, 6b, FA: S.Whittall
5. Magic moments, 5a, FA: S.Whittall
6. Moment of madness, 7a, FA: S.Whittall
7. Dont stop, 6c+, FA: S.Whittall
8. No money, no honey, 7a+, FA: S.Whittall
9. Puno zuji, malo meda daje, 7b+, FA: S.Whittall
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10. Dangerous but fun, 7a, FA: S.Whittall


11. Happy hour, 6a-6b, FA: S.Whittall
12. One step beyond, 6b, FA: S.Whittall
13. One way ticket, project
14. Dont look down, 6b+, FA: S.Whittall
15. Warm up routes
16. Warm up routes
A approach to route 13. and 14.

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Sector MALI PREVJES

SECTOR MALI PREVJES

1. Black fish, 5a, FA: S.Whittall


2. Dead fish, 5a, FA: S.Whittall
3. No fish!, 6a, FA: S.Whittall
4. Project
5. To be or not 2be, 7a+, FA: S.Whittall
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6. Be happy be free, 7b, FA: S.Whittall


7. No escape, 7b, FA: S.Whittall
8. Where eagles dare, 6a, FA: S.Whittall
9. On a mission from God, 7a+, FA: S.Whittall
10. Free fall, 7a+, FA: S.Whittall
11. Project
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Sector ORANGE

SECTOR ORANGE

1.
2.
3.
4.

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Steves crack, 7a+, 13m, FA: S.Whittall


Poluga, 6c+, 10m, FA: S.Whittall
Project
Sun is Fun, 5b, 8m FA: D.Piccini

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5. Run to sun, 6b+, 11m FA: D.Piccini, no logical end, the holds are dissapearing
6. Project
7. Project

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Sector GRANIT

SECTOR GRANIT

1. Friskina, 5b, 9m, FA: B.Koracak


2. Zizic, 6a, 9m, FA: D.Piccini
3. Korner, 6a+, 13m, FA: D.Piccini
4. Lokalac, 7b/b+, 13m, FA: D:Piccini *
5. Project, 17m *
6. Letterbox, 7a, 17m, FA: S.Whittall
7. Paklena naranca, 6b, 20m, FA: D.Piccini
8. Pirka, 7a, 9m FA: D.Piccini
9. Project, 9m
10. Parabolica, 7c, 9m, FA: D.Piccini 2012. *
11. Psihobloc, 7c, 9m, FA: L.Kivela (First 7c) 2010. *
12. Lusija, 6c, 9m, FA: D.Piccini *

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13. Mindja, 7b+/c, 10m, FA: L.Kivela *


+ 2nd part, Project, 18m
14. Kriya, 7a, 13m, FA: B.Koracak *
15. Ruski rulet, 7b, 13m, FA: B.Koracak (First 7b) *
16. Project
17. Tariguz, 6c, 13m , FA: B.Koracak *
18. Cobra crack, project, 12m *
19. Brabonjak, 6a, 6m, FA: D.Piccini
A. The cure for panic, 7a+, 25m, Traverse, FA: D.Piccini *
Nice climbing, crimps mostly, great moving. The routes with * mark have bolts
placed at the bottom of some routes, so you can get out, get dry and use chalk.

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I.Lisica, Tariguz 6c, Ciovo

Sector Sustipan, Ciovo

Sector Granit, Ciovo

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Sector SHARP

SECTOR SHARP

1. Shuriken, 6a+, 9m, FA: D.Piccini


2. UV faktor, 6b, 9m, FA: D.Piccini
3. Dalmos, 6a+, 9m, FA: D.Piccini
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S.Whittall, Paklena naranca 6b, Ciovo


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T.Piccini, Cupko 5c, Ciovo

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D.Piccini, Melita 6c+, Sustipan

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Sector NB

SECTOR NB

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
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Easy, 5a, 6m, FA: D.Piccini


Kljun, 6a, 8m, FA: D.Piccini
Barkarjol, 6a, 7m, FA: B.Koracak
Robinson, 6a, 6m, FA: D.Piccini
Game Over, 6a+, 6m, FA: D.Supe
G.O., 6b,5m FA: S.Malenica
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Sector SUSTIPAN

SEKTOR SUSTIPAN

1. Skuzaj Boro, 6a,12m, FA: D.Piccini


2. Morska bolest, 6a+, 11m, FA: B.Koracak
3. Zvijezda, 6a+, 11m, FA: B.Koracak
4. Skalinada, 6a, 11m, FA: D.Piccini
5. Project, 18m
6. Varijanta zecine, 6c+, 15m, FA: L.Trumbic
7. Zecina, 6a+, 15m, FA: B.Koracak
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8. Altophobia, 5b, 13m, FA: N.Bajic


9. Easy ride, 5c, 12m, FA: D.Piccini
10. Cupko, 5c, 11m, FA: D.Supe
A. Panika, 6b+, 60m, Traverse, FA: N.Bajic
Very popular sector because of big number of very good holds and jams. The
height is also nice, up to 20m. All routes has been climbed without chalk.
Good warm up sector!
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Sector WHITE

SECTOR WHITE

1.
2.
3.
4.
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Dinamika, 6b-c, FA: I.Savin (broken hold after FA) Project


Ready-Cool, Project
Daddy-Cool, Project
Krs, 6a+, 12m, FA: D.Piccini
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5. Lupocet, 6a, 12m, FA: D.Piccini


6. La plata, project, 15m
7. Living on the edge, Project
The left project - most atractive one - has got a bolt at the bottom of the route.
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Sector SUPLJA STINA

SECTOR SUPLJA STINA

1. Krik naglas, 6a+, 12m, FA: R.Webb


2. The only way is up, 6c+/7a, 10m, FA: D.Piccini
+ ext, Project, 18m
3. Project, 18m
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4. Glupaca, 6a+, 10m, FA: D.Piccini


+ ext, Project,
5. Project,
6. Project,
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T.Zlodre, Kriya 7a, Ciovo


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R.Webb, Paklena naranca 6b, Ciovo


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Sector DVICA

SECTOR DVICA

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
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Project, 16m *
Project, 12m *
Project, 10m *
Project, 18m *
Tasmanijska neman, 6b,13m, FA: Rick Webb *
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6. Project, 19m
7. Livada, 5a, 10m, FA: D.Piccini
8. Project, 7m
9. Natko ti si car, 6b, 5m, FA: D.Piccini
Very demanding and hard sector. Easiest routes has been climbed, only the hard projects left. The rock is very sharp.
Four projects have bolts placed at the bottom of the routes!
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Sector BIG

SECTOR BIG

1. Project,
2. Project,
3. Project, 7b+? *
4. Morski pas, 6a,12m, FA: D.Piccini
5. Project,
6. Plankton, 6a, 12m, FA: R.Webb
7. Project, *
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Deep water solo trips


Contact us:
info@avantura.biz
++385915295990,
++385915062163

8. Project, 7a?, *
9. Jukebox, 7b, 9m, FA: D.Piccini *
+ext, project
10. Project, ? 15m *
11. Golupcici, 6a, 12m, FA: J.Zekan *
12. Project, *
Great sector, the highest one! Many routes, easy ones, too. The 3 hardest
projects have bolts placed at the bottom of the routes!

www.avantura.biz

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D.Piccini, Psihobloc, 7c, Ciovo

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Hvar ISLAND

Very popular tourist destination in Dalmatia is Hvar island, the most sunniest island in Adriatic sea, 300 sunny days in a year is a good invitation
for you to come and check it out why. In climbing way this is also very
popular destination for sport climbing, but DWS too. The best location is
Sveta Nedilja, very small but very beautiful area famous among local red
wine production.

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HVAR ISLAND - SV.NEDJELJA


SUPLJA STINA - CLIFFBASE
Hvar is also well known DWS area with the hardest routes up to 8a (traverse 100m). Few years ago in May 2004. deep water solo festival happened on this location. You can reach cliffs without a boat.
How to reach Hvar?
Once you get to the island with ferry from Split, you need to drive one
hour to the south side of the island until you reach Sveta Nedilja. You
go to the coast and park your car there. Some 20min. of walking along
shore towards West will take you to the Suplja stina, amazing location
along the sea. Middle part of Suplja stina offer grandiose possibilities of
DWS. There are about 20 known DWS lines, up to 20m, grade from 5a
to 7a. But here, DWS can be much more, play in fantastic rock structure
area, full of grips, colors with deep blue beneath. You can even zig-zag,
travers or just sea bolder few meters above the sea.
NOTE
This area is on private property. For visiting you need to call
Miroslav 00385 91 764 8182. Daily ticket price 3 EUR.
www.cliffbase.com; cliffbase@cliffbase.com

HVAR, SV.NEDJELJA, SUPLJA STINA, CLIFFBASE

Sport climbing routes


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Deep water solo


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I.Franceschi, Sustipan

S.Malenica, Project, Ciovo


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Vis ISLAND

DALMATIA

Vis island has a really big potential for rock climbing in


global, but also for deep water
solo. Mainly on its south side
you can reach cliffs great for
DWS and mostly unclimbed so
far.
How to reach Vis?
It is easy to get on the island
of Vis. From Split harbour you have ferry that will take you there. But it
is not easy to reach cliffs without a boat. It is a pity since such a great
potential can be reached by very small number of climbers.
So far we have three interesting places for deep water solo in Vis region
marked on the map of the island: Stiniva, Zelena spilja, Bisevo.
Viska Stiniva is amazing spot. Nature has created beautiful spot which
is worth visiting. The hidden beach is absolutely unbelievable and it is
surrounded with vertical cliffs. Stiniva is reachable by car/on foot. It is

placed on the south side of the island. Not to many lines here to climb
but what is there is very attractive. So far there has been climbed just
three lines.
Zelena spilja is very small island belong to Viski skoji archipelago. In
the middle of the island there is a cave with a little hole in the middle
where the sunlight goes through and creates green light inside of the
cave. The DWS routes here are easy, with possibility for some harder
lines. Height is very friendly, up to 13 metres. The rock is very sharp.
Bisevo island has become famous for its Blue Cave, very popular and
touristy place. Definitely worth visiting! This island doesnt give us to
many potential for climbing, but if you find yourself by the boat in the
close distance, we surely recommend to come here. One of the walls
is in Porat, the small cove on west side of the island famous among its
sandy beach.
STINIVA

1. Tsunami, 6a, 10m, FA: D.Piccini


2. Paradise city, 6c, 11m, FA: D.Piccini
3. Bodul, 7a, 13m, FA: D.Piccini

STINIVA

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D.Jurisic, Melita, 6c+, Sustipan, Split


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L.Kivela, Mindja, 7b+/c, Ciovo

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ZELENA SPILJA

1. Viska pogaca, 5a, 9m, FA: D.Piccini


2. Plovac, 5c, 10m, FA: D.Piccini
3. Klin, 5c, 11m, FA: D.Piccini
4. Dalmata, 6a+, 12m, FA: D.Piccini

5. Fortuna, 6b, 13m, FA: D.Piccini


6. Project, 16m
7. Crvenokosa, 6a, 11m, FA: D.Piccini
8. Rogacica, 5a, 11m, FA: D.Piccini

Zelena spilja
BISEVO

1. Project, 12m
2. Zlatna pirueta, 5a, 13m, FA: D.Piccini

H.Lacic, Za stari toak 7a, Sustipan


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Kornati ISLANDS

KORNATI (National park) It is amazing and awesome! This region is


located north from Split, close to Sibenik and Zadar town. 90 islands on
one small area where almost every island present attraction to climbers
with its south side. Vertical, overhanging cliffs, lots of holes, caves above
the sea gives opportunity to climb the way you prefer. Different heights
of islands are optional too. The most impressive one, called Mana island, will leave you breathless. At year 2005. as we sad before, the best
world climbers visited this region and climbed 50 routes on different
locations with hardest one Ring of fire, 8b+. Over the years Croatian
climbers have done some routes but we do not have any tracks or topos.
You cannot access this area without a boat, and you have to pay daily
ticket for visiting National Park.

I.Lisica, Ruski rulet 7b, Ciovo

66

dalmatiaclimbing.com

dalmatiaclimbing.com

67

Contact:
info@dalmatiaclimbing.com
+385915295990; +385915052163
Partners:
We have been outdoors for a long time and we have lots of partners we
are working with. Here are some :
www.marulianus.hr
www.avantura.biz
www.dalmatina.net
Publications:

AVANTURA

ADVENTURES
organize
adventure day trips
in Dalmatia!
Check out our website for
details!

www.avantura.biz

cover page picture: D.Piccini, Psihobloc, 7c, Ciovo

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