Documenti di Didattica
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2 2006
ABSTRACT
Linen fabrics were cationized using 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride in
alkaline medium. The cationized linen fabrics were dyed independently, with different dyestuffs,
namely reactive, direct and acid dyes in absence of salt (no-salt dyed). Factors affecting the nosalt dyeing process of cationized linen fabrics were investigated. These factors included dye
concentration, pH of the dyeing bath, dyeing temperature and time as well as the chemical nature
of the dyes used. The dyed samples were monitored for color strength (K/S) after soaping and
after DMF extraction as well as fastness properties. It was found that for all dyestuffs used, the
magnitude of K/S of the dyed samples depends on the nature of the dyes and the conditions used
in each case. It was also seen that for no-salt dyeing of cationized linen fabrics, the maximum
K/S was achieved at dye shade 2.5 % (ows) and dye baths pH 7-9, at 60C for 20 minutes. In
addition to this, the color strength was much higher in case of cationized and no-salt dyed samples
compared with the uncationized and traditionally salt-dyed linen fabrics; meanwhile, the overall
fastness properties were comparable. Microscopic examination of the cationized and no-salt dyed
linen fabrics showed an excellent dye penetration and no evidence for the ring dye phenomena
was observed.
Keywords: Acid dye, Cationization, Cellulose, Linen fabric, No-salt dyeing, Reactive dye, direct
dye
1.
Introduction
2.
Experimental
2.1
Materials
2.2
Function groups
Vinyl sulphone
Monochlorotriazine
Bi- functional
Oxazine
Diazo
Diazo
Triazo
Phthalocyanine
Monoazo
Monoazo
45
B- Direct dyes
Linen fabric samples were introduced in an aqueous
solution containing the direct dye with continuous
stirring. During 30 minutes, the required amount of
salt was added in three doses and the temperature
was raised gradually to 95C. The dyeing process
was continued for another 30 minutes. The samples
were then washed in an aqueous solution containing
3 g/l soap (Egyptol) at 100C for 15 minutes.
Finally, the samples were washed with cold water
and dried at ambient conditions. The unexhausted
dyeing molecules were extracted by treating the
samples with an aqueous solution containing
DMF/water 50/50 at 100C for 15 minutes.
2.6
3.
3.1
Alkaline
solution:
L-Histidine
monohydrochloride monohydrate (0.5 g/l),
sodium chloride (5 g/l), sodium di- hydrogen
phosphate (5 g/l) were dissolved in a litre of
46
35
30
25
K/S
20
15
10
0
0
0.5
1.5
2.5
3.5
Fig. 1. Effect of reactive dye concentration on K/S of no-salt dyed and conventionally dyed linen fabrics
47
35
30
K/S
25
20
15
10
0
0
0.5
1.5
2.5
3.5
Fig. 2. Effect of direct dye concentration on K/S of no-salt dyed and conventionally dyed linen fabrics
Similar results were obtained when the cationized
linen fabrics were dyed with different concentration
of acid dyes (Alphanol Fast Turquoise Blue GGL,
C.I: Acid Blue 189). It should be noted here that the
bleached uncationized linen fabrics had no affinity
for acid dyes under our experimental conditions
used. Therefore, our study will focus on no-salt
dyeing of cationized linen fabrics with acid dyes.
Figure 3 shows that increasing the dye concentration
from 0.5 % to 2.5 % (ows) was accompanied by
increasing K/S values of cationized and no-salt acid
dyed linen samples from 16.78 to 27.73 after
40
K/S after soaping
35
30
K/S
25
20
15
10
5
0
0
0.5
1.5
2.5
3.5
Fig. 3. Effect of acid dye concentration on K/S of no-salt dyed linen fabrics
48
3.2
Table 2 shows also the effect of pH on K/S of precationized and no-salt dyed linen fabrics with acid
dyes (Alphanol Fast Turquoise Blue; Acid Blue
198). Results obtained are in accordance with the
results of reactive dyes and direct dyes discussed
above.
3.2.1 Effect of pH
Cationized linen fabrics were dyed using 2.5 %
(ows) reactive dye, Sunzol Brilliant Red BB (C.I:
Reactive Red 21) at different pH's. Acidic pH was
adjusted using 5 % aqueous acetic acid solution,
whereas alkaline pH was adjusted using 1.0 %
aqueous NaOH solution. The so obtained dyed
samples were evaluated for K/S after soaping and
after DMF extraction. Results obtained are set out in
Table 2.
Table 2. No-salt dyeing of cationized linen fabrics with reactive, direct and acid dyes: Effect of process
parameters
K/S
Process parameter
Reactive dye
(a)
Soaping
DMF
Soaping
DMF
Soaping
DMF
16.78
16.54
22.11
21.09
26.16
26.01
23.79
23.70
24.62
24.57
27.17
27.10
23.6
22.77
24.60
24.58
27.48
27.40
11
15.83
15.17
21.32
21.86
23.10
23.01
14
3.41
3.04
5.85
2.96
16.33
16.05
25
15.83
13.66
13.14
12.12
22.46
20.82
40
21.13
19.91
22.68
22.60
26.83
26.80
50
21.73
21.37
22.68
23.41
26.99
26.95
60
23.62
23.60
24.64
24.60
27.70
27.70
70
23.61
23.37
24.44
24.23
27.71
27.70
80
23.67
23.62
24.31
24.30
27.69
27.66
90
23.60
23.60
24.46
24.40
27.72
27.70
20.16
19.1
13.53
13.42
21.68
21.60
10
21.17
20.30
20.20
19.82
26.94
26.93
20
23.68
23.55
24.64
24.64
27.72
27.70
30
23.68
23.57
24.62
24.60
27.73
27.71
40
23.59
23.55
24.65
24.63
27.70
27.69
50
23.59
23.50
24.62
24.61
27.71
27.70
60
23.60
23.59
24.64
24.60
27.72
27.70
pH
Temperature (C)
Time (min)
(a)
(b)
(c)
50
3.3
Table 3. Effect of reactive dye chemistry on K/S of no-salt dyed linen fabrics
and conventionally dyed linen fabrics
K/S
Dye names and its C.I
(a)
Reactive groups
Conventionally
dyeing
After
After
soaping DMF
After
DMF
Vinyl sulphone
10.80
10.62
23.70
23.67
122.90
Monochlorotriazine
15.80
14.46
24.34
23.34
61.41
Bi-functional
7.80
7.89
23.59
23.10
192.80
% Change in K/S values were calculated from those values obtained after DMF extraction as follows:
% Change of K/S
51
percentage
change
Reactive groups
Oxazine
Conventionally
dyeing
After
After
soaping DMF
12.97
2.25
After
soaping
24.97
After
DMF
24.78
1001.3
Diazo
20.63
1.75
27.82
27.03
1444.5
Diazo
14.04
1.40
22.08
21.10
1407.1
Triazo
9.43
0.73
22.81
21.89
2898.6
% Change in K/S values were calculated from those values obtained after DMF extraction as follows:
% Change of K/S
52
Table 5. Effect of acid dye chemistry on K/S of no-salt dyed linen fabrics
3.4
Reactive group
After DMF
Phthalocyanine
27.90
27.57
Monoazo
20.59
20.52
Monoazo
14.35
14.03
53
Rubbing
fastness
Wet
Dry
Washing fastness
Dye names and its C.I
Sunzol Brilliant Red BB
(Reactive Red 21)
Sunfunvion Blue HEGN
(Reactive BL. 198)
Reactobond Red 6BX
(C.I: Reactive R. 255)
Functional groups
Vinyl sulphone
Monochlorotriazine
Bi-functional
K/S
23.7
(10.8)
23.3
(15.8)
23.1
(7.8)
St. L
St. W
Chang
4
(4)
4
(3)
4-5
(4-5)
3-4
(4)
5
(4)
5
(5)
4
(4)
4-5
(4)
4
(4)
3-4
(4)
3-4
(3)
3-4
(3-4)
4
(4)
4-5
(3-4)
4
(4)
St. L
4
(4)
3
(2)
3
(3)
Aci
St
(
(
3
(3
Values in brackets represent the fastness properties of the conventionally dyed linen fabrics
St L = Staining on linen, St. W = Staining on wool, Chang = changing
54
Table 7. Colour strength and fastness properties of no-salt direct dyed linen fabrics vis--vis conve
Dye names and its C.I
Functional
groups
Diamin Supra Blue FFRL
(Direct Blue 108)
Red Scarlet 4BS
(Direct Red 16)
Orange S
(Direct Orange 10)
Black EX 150%
(Direct Black 1)
Oxazine
Diazo
Diazo
Trisazo
Rubbing
fastness
Washing fastness
K/S
24.9
(12.9)
27.8
(20.6)
22.1
(14.1)
22.8
(9.4)
St. L
St. W
Chang
Wet
Dry
3
(2)
3
(4)
4
(4)
3
(2)
4
(2-3)
4
(3)
3
(3)
3
(2)
4
(3)
4
(4)
4
(4)
3
(2)
3
(3)
3
(3)
4
(4)
2-3
(3)
4-5
(4)
4
(4)
4
(4)
4-3
(4)
Values in brackets represent the fastness properties of conventionally dyed linen fabric
St L = Staining on linen, St. W = Staining on wool, Chang = changing
St. L
3
(1)
3-4
(2-3)
4
(3-4)
2-3
(1-2)
Acidic
St. W
3
(1-2)
4
(3)
4
(3)
3
(1-2)
Table 6. Colour strength and fastness properties of no-salt reactive dyed linen fabrics vis--vis conve
Dye names
Alphanol Fast Turquoise Blue
GGL (Acid blue 198)
Fast Red EG
(Acid Red 1)
Fast yellow GW
(Acid Yellow 61)
Functional
groups
Washing fastness
K/S
St. L
Rubbing
fastness
St. W
Chang
Wet
Dry
St. L
Acidi
St. W
Phthalocyanine
27.9
2-3
Monoazo
20.6
4-5
4-5
Monoazo
14.4
4-5
55
Table 8. Colour strength and fastness properties of no-salt acid dyed linen fabric
3.5
A study was made to investigate the fiber crosssection of bleached linen fabrics, cationized,
conventionally dyed bleached fabrics and no-salt
dyed of cationized linen fabrics. Figures 4a, b, c and
d show the fiber cross-section of these fabrics
respectively dyed using the reactive dye Sunzol
Brilliant Red BB (C.I: Reactive Red 21).
Figure 4a shows a typical hexagonal cell structure of
linen fiber cross-section whereas figure 4b shows
the same hexagonal cell structure of the fiber crosssection but with some degree of swelling due to the
effect of NaOH (50 g/l) used during the
cationization reaction. Figure 4c shows the cross-
Fig. 4d. Cross-section of cationized and no-salt reactive dyed linen fabrics
56
4.
[7]
Conclusion
[8]
[9]
[10]
[11]
[12]
[13]
[14]
[15]
[16]
[17]
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