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insideVOGUE
MAY 2016

Regulars
35 EDITORS LETTER
38 VOGUE NOTICES
Behind the scenes of the issue
40 VOGUE.CO.UK
The best of our website
128 CHECKLIST
Thoughts have turned to summer
244 STOCKISTS
BACK PAGE MINDS EYE
Designer Duro Olowu covets
vintage and vinyl

In Vogue

WHAT TO
BUY NOW

51 WHATS NEW
The people, places, ideas and
trends to watch now

Page 79

59 ESCAPE ARTISTS
The fashion world would be a less
magical place without haute couture,
argues Sarah Harris
71 WHATS THE SECRET OF COOL?
Model and actress Camille Rowe
divulges the answer to Julia Hobbs
EVENT
76 JOIN THE PARTY
The Vogue Festival is back and,
being our centenary, itll be a bigger
celebration than ever

Futuristic
synthetics collide
with artisanal threads
to create summers
optimistic pairings

Vogue Shops

MOONAGE DAYDREAM,
PAGE 146

COVER STORY
79 WHAT TO BUY NOW
Summers fashion blueprint

View
COVER LOOK

91 MEET THE MAKERS

Craft is finding a place in the luxury
market, discovers Hannah Nathanson
Kate Moss wears vest and jacket,
both vintage Rolling Stones tour
costumes. Get the look: make-up
by Charlotte Tilbury. Face: Filmstar
Killer Cheekbones. Eyes: Colour
Chameleon Eyeshadow Pencil
in Amber Haze; Full Fat Lashes
Mascara. Lips: Kissing Lipstick
in Nude Kate. Hair by Krastase:
Discipline Mousse Curl Idal;
Lift Vertige Root-Uplifting Gel.
Hair: Sam McKnight. Make-up:
Charlotte Tilbury. Archivist: Isobel
Work. Set design: Andy Hillman.
Production: North Six Europe.
Digital artwork: D Touch.
Fashion editor: Kate Moss.
Photographer: Craig McDean

96 FIRST BLUSH
English roses are blooming on the
catwalks, in galleries and as far afield
as Hollywood. By Hermione Eyre
101 THE BEAT GOES ON
Oral poet and rapper Kate Tempest has
turned to prose for her latest project
EVENT
107 THE 100 CLUB
The opening night of Vogues
National Portrait Gallery exhibition
was the ideal moment to remember
the past, and imagine the future

Spy
113 LOOKING FOR TRIBAL
This season, designers turned
to Africa for inspiration
114 SIX WAYS TO SUMMER
Holidaymakers wardrobes
deconstructed
118 CHAIN REACTION
The anklet has come full circle,
writes Carol Woolton
123 LEAD TIME
Already wardrobe-planning
beyond summer? Naomi Smart
cherry picks the pre-collections
FASHION TRAVEL
126 SEVILLE
Vogues sketches of Spain >30
23

insideVOGUE
Seductive underwear speeds trusty
sportswear into the next season to
create wardrobe champions
EARTH ANGEL, PAGE 170

SUBTITLE 03
Features
132 COVER STORY
ON WITH THE SHOW
Kate Moss gathers the Rolling
Stones most memorable tour
costumes, while Bella Freud a
lifelong fan remembers the bands
irrepressible panache. Photographs
by Craig McDean
182 FIRST IN LINE
The finalists (and winner) of the
BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund
award in numbers. By Ellie Pithers
188 THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY
Leaving Londons YBA scene for
New York was one of the best things
painter Cecily Brown has done,
she tells Caroline Roux
192 COVER STORY
JOHNNY COME LATELY
Can Mulberrys new creative director
restore the famous British brand to its
former glory, asks Sarah Harris

THE ONE THAT

GOT AWAY

Fashion

Page 188

231 FUCHSIA TRADING

Bold investments for the new season

146 MOONAGE DAYDREAM

Futuristic materials and artisan
techniques conjure an ethereal,
otherworldly vibe. Photographs
by Colin Dodgson
160 CLASSIC SEQUENCE
Old favourites, new interpretations.
Photographed by Lachlan Bailey

COVER STORY
232 THE NEW PAGEBOY
Fresh, devil-may-care, boyish,
extravagant the haircut for
now is all these things and
more to Julia Hobbs

170 EARTH ANGEL

Lingerie and sportswear are a
heavenly summer combination.
Photographs by Harley Weir

Beauty

234 BACK TO THE BRONZE AGE

Tanning products are better
than theyve ever been.
By Lauren Murdoch-Smith

COVER STORY
196 DEPECHE MODE
The Parisian designers storming
the barricades of the French fashion
establishment. By Ellie Pithers.
Photographs by Angelo Pennetta

207 VOGUE BODY SPECIAL

IN ASSOCIATION WITH SELFRIDGES
GET SET
to achieve your best body ever,
with the ultimate guide to looking good
and feeling great this summer

SUBSCRIBE TO
30

COVER STORY
239 A BRAVE FACE
At her lowest ebb, Funmi Fetto found
solace in a surprising place: make-up
242 BEAUTY UPDATE
Hot off the beauty press

Turn to page 62 for our fantastic subscription offer, plus free gift

LE VOLUME DE CHANEL - DIMENSIONS DE CHANEL

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CHANEL .COM

Editors letter

Left: Osman
Yousefzada, one
of the finalists in
the BFC/Vogue
Designer Fashion
Fund (page 182)

Stone fox:
Kate Moss models
costumes from the
Rolling Stones
archive for Craig
McDean (page 132)

Jump BACK
hen we heard that there
was to be a new Rolling
Stones exhibition at the
Saatchi Gallery, the question was, what
could we organise around it? Enter
Kate Moss, the perfect person to style
a shoot using the bands incredible
collection of stage costumes (On
with the Show, page 132). It didnt
take a huge leap of the imagination to
envisage the epitome of rock-chick
style working with vintage pieces from
the greatest rock performers of our
time. The original plan was for her to
style another model in them, but once
she saw the treasure she was keen to put
herself in the story. When we looked
at the individual pieces a nostalgic
glitter-fest of jumpsuits, leather, sequins
and velvet it was clear that they
could easily have come straight from
Kates own wardrobe. In fact, it was

CRAIG McDEAN; TUNG WALSH; SHAUN JAMES COX

extraordinary how influential they

have been on fashion and how many
designers through the decades have
worked on them, as was explained by
the very helpful Isobel Work, costume
designer and archivist for the band.
Craig McDeans shoot is loosely
inspired by the time the Stones spent
at Villa Nellcte seen in Exile, a
book of photographs which is one of
the best examples of capturing a
moment in time, the moment being
the recording of Exile on Main St
in the South of France. For me, the
icing on this particular storys cake is
Bella Freuds accompanying article,
which so perfectly evokes the heady
glamour of Stones style.
Congratulations to all the shortlisted
designers in the BFC/Vogue Designer
Fashion Fund profiled in this issue
(First in Line, page 182). It is hard

Above: the judges

of this years
Fashion Fund
award, from left,
Joan Burstein,
Susanne TideFrater, Mary Homer,
Lisa Armstrong,
Caroline Rush,
Alexandra
Shulman, Victoria
Beckham, Sarah
Manley, Samantha
Cameron and
Ian Lewis

to grow an admired and profitable

fashion business, and Mother of Pearl,
Osman, Prism and Emilia Wickstead
are all proof of persistence, imagination
and complete dedication. This years
winner, Sophia Webster, carries on the
tradition of great shoe design in
Britain. I dont know quite what it is
about this country that encourages
such imaginative creations think
Manolo Blahnik, Nicholas Kirkwood,
Sandra Choi, Charlotte Olympia
Dellal but, pun entirely intended,
Sophia certainly knows how to put the
very best foot forward, and all the
judges had faith that she will march
on to even greater success.

35

VOGUEnotices
ALL ABOUT THIS MONTHS ISSUE

The Rolling
Stones at
Ahoy, in
Rotterdam,
1973

Box of tricks
Colin Dodgson (below) returned to Oxnard, the
Californian beach town where he grew up, to
photograph his inaugural story for Vogue (Moonage
Daydream, page 146). Mid-shoot, the seasons first
El Nio storm hit. It was serendipity, he recalls,
because when we ran to the harbour to find shelter,
we also found a tackle box full of flies that looked just
like the Loewe necklace we had with us. So I laid our
model Rianne beside the box, now with the Loewe
necklace inside it, and began shooting from a moored
boat. The result is my new favourite photograph.

Rolling with the STONES

Isobel Work is costume archivist for the legendary
rocknroll band. She tells Vogue about life on the road

38

All four of the Stones have

incredibly youthful figures, not far
off the sizes that they were in their
teens. The clothes we have from the
Sixties are very small trousers with
27in waists and finely cut jackets
and its remarkable that they have
added only two inches to these
measurements 50 years on.
Many stylists contribute to the
wardrobe today. We work closely with
designers such as Hedi Slimane for
Keith, and the late LWren Scott was
designing all of Micks costumes her
team continue to produce jackets in
her style. William Gilchrist has worked
with us since A Bigger Bang in 2005,
and he dresses the rest of the band.
Since 2011 we have been bringing
together an archive of the bands
belongings from the past 50 years.
For the Vogue shoot, I sent photos
to senior contributing fashion editor
Kate Phelan, who telephoned Mick
to discuss them, then selected about
30 costumes. The archive forms a
wonderful time capsule of great
designers of the period, such as
Mr Fish, Granny Takes a Trip,
Hung On You and Tommy Nutter.
I am always asked if we have the white
Mr Fish costume that Mick wore in
Hyde Park all those years ago, but we
do not. Perhaps one day it will surface
again in the hands of a collector

GET YOUR COAT

Classic Sequence, on page 160, is Verity Parkers first
fashion story in her new capacity as Vogues associate
fashion editor, and her mind is already focused on what
to wear this (English) summer. One of the black leather
jackets from the Louis Vuitton show. Although, secretly,
says Verity (below), I love this summers lingerie-inspired
pieces Im just not brave enough to wear them.

JUSTIN LOSTUTTER; RORY PAYNE; GETTY

have been travelling with the

Rolling Stones since their Bridges
to Babylon tour in 1997. There is
never any fixed costume for their
shows: every night is a changing
palette [Kate Moss models some of
the bands looks
selected by Work,
left, in On With the
Show on page 132].
A main consideration
is how much abuse
the clothes have to
endure. Mick will
swing an expensive
cape above his head,
tear off a shirt or fling
a hat into the wings
clothes are as much
props as costumes. So everything has
to be made using materials that will
take some thrashing.
Charlie will often choose his top
and socks according to the colour of
a local sports team or even the flag
of a country: he is a lover of beautiful
tailoring and fine fabrics and has
the most impeccable personal
wardrobe of anyone I know. But, as a
drummer, he is not able to wear these
clothes on stage, and often wears a
simple pair of jeans and a colourful
T-shirt. Keith is the least predictable
from show to show and will wear
what he pleases.

VOGUE.co.uk
GET AHEAD WITH WHATS HAPPENING ON VOGUE ONLINE

BACK TO
CALIFORNIA
The first wave
of 2016 festival
fashion comes
straight from
California
this month,
as Coachella
takes place on
consecutive
April weekends.
Consider this the
starting point for
planning your
festival wardrobe
well bring you
the trends set to
dominate the fields
this summer, the
shopping list thatll
get you ready for
Glastonbury and
beyond, plus Miss
Vogues edit of the
ultimate beauty
must-haves.

PEOPLE & PARTIES

Stargazing
If red-carpet fashion is
your guilty pleasure, then
our Daily Style Directory
should be your first online
stop of the day. Collating all
the sartorial talking points
from the world of celebrity,
the series also showcases
the weeks 10 best-dressed
stars in its Friday edition.
Coming up, look out for
the Metropolitan Museum
of Arts annual Met Ball
on May 2, which attracts a
guest list rivalled only by
the Oscars for star power
and fairytale gowns.

CLOSET SECRETS OF A STYLE QUEEN

As Vogue dissects the style of
Camille Rowe this month (Whats
the Secret of Cool?, page 71), Vogue
Video takes you inside her NYC
apartment for the latest in our series
of Inside the Wardrobe films. Once
youve watched Rowe delve through
her collection of to-die-for vintage
pieces, slogan tees and jackets
for every occasion, revisit our
archive of wardrobe films, featuring
Suki Waterhouse, Lily Allen, Caroline
de Maigret and Olivia Palermo.

From left: Alicia

Vikander in Louis
Vuitton, Emila
Clarke in Victoria
Beckham, Kate
Winslet in Antonio
Berardi, Dakota
Johnson in
Dior, and Olga
Kurylenko in Ralph
& Russo. All at this
years Baftas

BEAUTY

Belle-lettres

Whatever your preferred social-media channel, be sure to get the latest news from Vogue first by following us on Instagram,
Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, Google+ and Youtube. Just search for BRITISH VOGUE and MISS VOGUE and join the club.

GETTY; JASON LLOYD-EVANS;

PAUL BOWDEN

Can you decipher the ingredients label on your

moisturiser? Do you know your AHAs from your
BHAs? If youre not yet fluent in beauty speak, relax
and let our week-by-week Skincare Alphabet break it
down. Once youre up to speed, tune into our Vogue
Beauty School episodes to learn the tricks of the trade,
from how to master winged eyeliner and the perfect
red lip to the most effective way to cleanse.

HORTENSIA COLLECTION VOIE LACTE RING

LART DE LA JOAILLERIE DEPUIS 1780

174 New Bond Street Harrods, The Fine Jewellery Room Selfridges, The Wonder Room
For all enquiries: 0207 495 6303

ALEXANDRA SHULMAN
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
CREATIVE DIRECTOR JAIME PERLMAN
DEPUTY EDITOR EMILY SHEFFIELD MANAGING EDITOR FRANCES BENTLEY
FASHION DIRECTOR LUCINDA CHAMBERS
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ACTING EXECUTIVE FASHION EDITOR LAURA INGHAM
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FASHION ASSISTANTS FLORENCE ARNOLD, BEATRIZ DE COSSIO, KATIE FRANKLIN
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inVOGUE
COME RAIN OR SHINE
Stow the black handbag and turn up the heat
with Chlos rainbow version instead, 1,490

Whats

NEW
THE PEOPLE, PLACES, IDEAS
AND TRENDS TO WATCH NOW

Model Judy Dent

with Fela Kuti and
his band, Vogue
October 1961

Edited by JULIA HOBBS

All that
JAZZ
handful of jazz-infused
pursuits are reaching
a crescendo. Don
Cheadle writes, directs and
stars in the film Miles Ahead
(out April 22), a love letter
to pioneering jazzman Miles
Davis. Hit double-time later
in the year with Whiplash
director Damien Chazelles
second musical offering, La La
Land ( July 15) an all-singing
romance between a jazz pianist
(Ryan Gosling) and fledgling
actress (Emma Stone). In the
meantime, remind yourself of
the retro charm of rising star
Leon Bridgess gospel blues (the
singer is in Britain on April
7 and 9). And where better
to toast the scene than over a
Bayou cocktail at the Oriole in
Smithfield to the soundtrack
of its jazzed-up roster of nightly
swing and blues. LMcG

BRIAN DUFFY; DAVID BAILEY

Above: Don Cheadle in Miles Ahead.

Below: the Oriole, Smithfield Market

MEXICO

ARGENTINA

MONTANA

RANCH LINES
Meet your next
shameless Netflix
indulgence:
Ashton Kutcher
saddles up for
his role as a
Colorado rancher
in comedy The
Ranch, on April 1.
Follow his lead
and head to La
Bamba de Areco,
a 19th-century
estancia in the
Argentine Pampas
for a helping of
gaucho culture

and traditional
asado (barbecue);
ride out through
the Yucatan
jungle at Mexicos
Hacienda
Uayamon, a
luxuriously restored
plantation built in
1700; or take to
the modern-day
Wild West at
Montanas Ranch
at Rock Creek
home to a Silver
Dollar Saloon and
more than 5,000
acres of pristine
wilderness.
Hayley Maitland
51

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inVOGUE
Patch update
igid denim gets the
high-fashion stamp of
approval (literally) for
summer. Think comic-book
graphics or floral appliqu the
new high-jinks jeans by Gucci,
Rag & Bone and MiH are all
about that crucial badge of
honour. Wear them at night with
a metallic sports jacket.

r
FAN CLUB
Remember the
joy of being a
fan? This oldschool annual is a
mash-up of onepage fanzines,
says Vogue
contributing editor
Bay Garnett, who
launches Fanpages
this month with
co-editor Kira
Jolliffe. Stow it in
your grown-up
backpack.

GUCCI

EACH X OTHER

MIH JEANS
JEANS, 425

Fanpages (Idea, 35) is available

at Dover Street Market

NIGEL SHAFRAN; BAY GARNETT; PIXELATE.BIZ

Virtual insanity
From Ridley Scotts immersive recreation
of the Martian landscape to a simulated
journey through wildest Kenya, virtual-reality
installations trumped the silver-screen
offerings at Sundance Film Festival earlier
this year. Hollywood studios and major
directors are now working on cinematic,
360-degree experiences, says Wired
assistant editor Oliver Franklin-Wallis. The
biggest names in Silicon Valley consider
VR to be the future not just of video
games or film, but of a whole new genre of
entertainment. Experience the revolution

by trading your Ray-Bans for an Oculus Rift

this summer. The newly released headset
transports users from vertiginous mountain
ridges to the Arctic tundra without having
to move an inch. Not yet ready to plunge
headfirst into a fantasy world? Dip a toe into
the matrix by downloading the Vrse app
its iPhone-friendly selection of mesmerising
virtual-reality films will have you dancing
a rumba on the
Matt Damon
streets of Havana
in The
or soaring over the Martian
Manhattan skyline
in no time.
Hayley Maitland

53

inVOGUE
The most street
of all streetwear
pieces has
undergone a PR
makeover

Hanne
Gaby
Odiele
in New
York.
Left: Eva
Chen

GIRLS in
the HOOD

54

Isabella Emmack
at Milan
Fashion Week

JOSH OLINS; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; GETTY

CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE

FENTY PUMA BY RIHANNA A/W 16

n the brief history of 21st-century British fashion,

few articles of clothing have attracted such
contentious debate as the hoodie. We the people
in suits often see hoodies as aggressive, the uniform
of a rebel army of young gangsters, David Cameron
said in 2006. Fast forward to s/s 16 and make
that a rebel army of young models. This most
street of all streetwear pieces has undergone a
PR makeover thanks to Chanels haute hoodie
(spotted at the Paris couture shows), Rihannas
supersized styles for Fenty Puma, and the
meteoric rise of London skate brand Palace.
By the late Noughties we came to associate the
jersey zip-up with computer programmers-cummillionaires who had no need to grow out of
adolescent style for the office. These days its also
Justin Bieber, Kanye and a slew of models who
forgo formal outerwear in favour of a skater
sweater handy for hiding, while simultaneously
saying, Look at me! Invest in a plush version
by Aries or boutique menswear label Unused
to pare down Marques Almeidas full-length
floral dress (or be brave and wear your
hoodie alone with thigh-high boots).
No matter how polished the layers
beneath, though, the hoodie will
always suggest mischief at play.
Wear it with a purposeful air
of disobedience. Q

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VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE

inVOGUE

Escape
ARTISTS
DOES HAUTE COUTURE HAVE
A PLACE IN TODAYS VOLATILE
WORLD? ABSOLUTELY,
SAYS SARAH HARRIS

CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE

JASON
MITCHELL SAMS
GUTTERLLOYD-EVANS;
CREDIT

59

DIOR HAUTE COUTURE

ubert de Givenchy called

it right when he once
said that, to him, haute
couture means perfection. At a
time when everything else is
seemingly falling apart
plummeting oil prices, the
global economy theres
always haute couture for
escapism. Now more than ever,
the expectation of what couture
should be or perhaps more
accurately what you want it to be is
forever whirring, as the shows play
out in an uncharacteristically quiet
Paris, where taxis are on strike and
the effects of Novembers terrorist
attacks are still ricocheting
through every arrondissement.
Surely what we want haute
couture to be is modern, of-themoment clothes as fantastical
as they are believable, and so
exquisitely engineered, crafted
and decorated they make you
ache with desire. Then, after
theyve made their debut
under the bright lights inside
some of Pariss grandest
buildings, we might imagine
these pieces floating off,
happily ever after, into
the fabulous lifestyles of
the fabulous women who
occupy this world.
And they are fabulous.
From the Asian clients who
sit demurely in pastel
taffeta to the Americans,
almost always in Chanel
suits, to the Russians,
swathed in showy greytipped sable, carrying tiny
Himalayan crocodile Birkins,
fingers weighed down with gaudy golfball-sized Colombian emeralds. They
peacock up and down the front row to >

inVOGUE
Giambattista
Valli surveys the
dresses before
his spring 2016
couture show

season, and it absolutely affected my

perception of the quality of this seasons
haute couture, says Polish couture
client Joanna Przetakiewicz.
One glitch is that haute couture
hasnt evolved with the shifting fashion
landscape. More and more, much of
ready-to-wear now looks like couture,
and thats because the more commercial
ideas, which once occupied the readyto-wear arena, are now filed into the
pre-collections. Consequently, readyto-wear has flexed its creative muscle
and punched out another term to add
to the fashion lexicon demi-couture
extravagantly decorated clothes that
sit within the realms of ready-to-wear

GIORGIO
ARMANI PRIVE

SCHIAPARELLI
HAUTE COUTURE

GAULTIER PARIS

ELIE SAAB
HAUTE COUTURE

DIOR HAUTE COUTURE

ARMANI PRIVE

LILAC

60

by hand and took eight seamstresses

eight days to complete). Valentino
isnt alone. Gucci currently boasts
an emerald pliss silk chiffon ankleskimmer for 14,260, and Dolce
& Gabbana offers a broderie
anglaise dress for 11,750.

and which are mostly identified by a

hefty five-figure price tag and
appliqu. Its one of the reasons
Przetakiewicz didnt order anything
this season. The experience of having
a dress made only for you at an atelier
with 100 years of history is truly
magical, but lately haute couture has
lost its lustre and ready-to-wear has
taken some of it for its own gain.
Their image gets really close too
close and I dont see much sense in
spending far larger amounts only
because it has an haute couture label
in it, despite all the hours that
it entailed, she shrugs. Current
demi-couture delights include a
lovely appliqud silk organza gown
by Valentino for 14,400 (the silk
petals were painted and applied

ATELIER VERSACE

Lately haute
couture has lost
its lustre and
ready-to-wear has
taken some of it for
its own gain

ashion loves to concoct

a new term. From demicouture to athleisure (a
category of clothes that you
could if forced do exercise
in, but you choose not to) to
athevening (athletic-looking
eveningwear that, no, you cant
do sports in, but wearing it
makes you look like the sporty
type). Im not certain that
the worlds of athevening and
couture should ever collide,
but they did at Versace
Atelier. The Rio Olympics
are fast approaching, so if
ever there was a moment for
Donatella Versace to explore the
concept of hot suntanned bodies
with athletic-looking design, its
now. She took the baton and
ran with it. From stirrup ski
pants and sporty jacket
combos to sinuous gowns with
gaping portholes; so many cutouts, plunges, slits and slashes,
in fact, that were it not for
the Swarovski-crystal ropes
holding them together, they
looked like they could slip right off.
Of course, thats all part of the >

SCHOHAJA; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS

make doubly sure everyone has seen

them, leaving nothing but a trail
of Guerlain Mitsouko in their wake.
And then theres the Middle Eastern
royalty and European aristocracy
jostling alongside expensive-looking
newcomers from emerging markets
such as Brazil. Every one an exotic
creature but shes a dwindling breed.
Its been estimated that there are 4,000
couture customers in the world,
compared with coutures heyday during
the Fifties, when some 20,000 clients
ordered their wardrobes from these
shows. It matters. A drop in attendance
does have a ripple effect in the
desirability of these clothes. I noticed
substantially fewer wealthy clients this

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inVOGUE

CHANEL HAUTE
COUTURE

BOMBERS

MAISON MARGIELA ARTISANAL

BY JOHN GALLIANO

CHANEL

GAULTIER PARIS

appeal here. You couldnt do Pilates in

it, but youd need a Pilates-honed
body before youd even consider
wearing athevening.
On the topic of unlikely alliances,
one might wonder what haute couture
has to do with an ecosystem and, in
turn, what an ecosystem has to do
with a lavish multimillion-pound
production, but at Chanel, Karl
Lagerfeld persuaded us all otherwise.
He transformed the Grand Palais into
an energy-efficient zone where a
wooden-slatted modernist house,
which looked like some kind of
abstinence retreat, was positioned
on a sprawling manicured lawn,
complete with lily pond
and even swarming
midges (flown in for the
fanfare? Just maybe).
It was a celebration
of nature, which
brought forward a
bucolic
springtime
wardrobe. The focus
was on the Chanel
skirt suit, because aside
from a few frothy dresses
made of tufted shredded
cotton (which looked like
feathers prised from a day-old
chick) I doubt anyone wishes to
see anything other than the
Chanel suit on a Chanel haute
couture runway. Most were
midi-length (which Coco
Chanel herself would very
much approve of: she deemed
knees to be the ugliest part of
a womans body). In keeping
with his back-to-nature theme,
shaved woodchips were woven
into signature boucl suits,
adorned here and there with
twinkling bug brooches a bee, as
though to highlight their plight. His
calming Zen palette drifted through
the entire beige spectrum, from biscuit
and putty through to clotted cream
and ivory. Not a hint of lilac.

Eighty per cent of the Armani

Priv collection was lilac, or a watery
shade of mauve. As the week
developed, so too did the chalky pastel,
popping up at Giambattista Valli,
Elie Saab, Gaultier, Dior and
Schiaparelli. Trends do emerge
at these shows the haute
sneaker was born on these
runways, remember. Also
sighted: the bomber jacket.
It was literally everywhere:
at Chanel, blooming in
silk petal appliqu; beaded
at Atelier Versace; in
orange mink at Gaultier; at
Maison Margiela, oversized
and disguised beneath what
looked like a heap of laundry
(albeit
brocade
laundry).
Everywhere. At least the bomber
feels la mode. Regardless of
how you feel about powdery
lavender (opinions run from pretty
to putrid, but it went down
very well with three Korean beauties
on Armanis front row, who
excitedly snapped their favourite
pieces on their iPhones), its
rarely a hue thats synonymous
with modernity.
Neither, you might think,
is a bridal gown that a
bride can barely walk in, as
witnessed at Ralph &
Russo, the couture
house that two years
ago became the first
British label to be invited
to show at Paris Couture Week
in a century. Isabeli Fontana
towing a 10ft train down the
runway was like watching a very welldressed Iron Man challenge. It might
as well have been a truck. Turning 180
degrees was also impossible: at least
without the assistance of six >
63

JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; OLIVIER SAILLANT

CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE

For his Chanel

show at the
Grand Palais,
Karl Lagerfeld
built an
eco-house
complete with
garden, right,
to complement
his natureinspired
couture offering

inVOGUE

DIOR HAUTE COUTURE

handlers to lift, manoeuvre and

rearrange said train. But no matter,
showgoers, including Uma Thurman
and Rita Ora, revelled in the spectacle
and gasped with glee. The huge
numbers that make up the gown must
be one of the most impressive sets of
statistics of the couture season: 2,710ft
of tulle and 151ft of organza (each
sleeve comprised 72ft), more than 50
embroiderers clocked up 6,000
accumulated hours. At time of writing,
the gown has garnered a lot of interest
and a sale is apparently imminent.
Ralph & Russo is a thriving business:
in 2014, the privately held company
was valued at an undisclosed ninefigure sum. The Australian-born,
London-based design pair, Tamara
Ralph and Michael Russo, has dressed
everyone from Angelina Jolie to
Beyonc to Gwyneth Paltrow. It was
sensational, said a British personal
stylist before hurrying after her client
to congratulate the designers backstage.
We buy a dozen couture pieces a year,
she continued, highlighting those
shes intending to order here: a petal
strewn ballerina-length ball gown, a
silver shawl-collared double satin robe

with elegantly tulip-draped skirt, and

a belted cobalt blue peplum skirt suit
that was more Dior than, well, Dior.
Dior is a house that one might
expect to see ruffled, and yet it was
resolutely unruffled.
Since Raf Simons Dior is a house that
exited last October, one might expect to
proceedings
have
been left in the see ruffled, yet it was
capable hands of resolutely unruffled
an in-house design
team, headed up by Swiss studio
directors Serge Ruffieux, 41, and Lucie
Meier, 32. They worked under Simonss
direction for many years and so his
ideas on modernity were still evident
although it was Monsieur Dior himself,
and his fixation on the spontaneous,
relaxed Parisienne, coupled with their

own ideas of coutures new realism that

was said to be the trigger. It worked.
Staged in a mirrored box in the
sprawling gardens of the Muse Rodin,
the show proved that the bar jacket a
design that spans eight decades and
still looks good is the gift that keeps
on giving. It was reinterpreted several
times over, in crisp white, in oversized
camel, even extended to a cocktail dress.
Elsewhere, fit-and-flare dresses were
delightfully askew, tops seemed twisted
on torsos, others were casually shrugged
off, as though getting dressed was an
afterthought rather than the highlight
of the day (in a good way). Even sleeves
were purposefully pushed up. These
were clothes intended for the superwealthy with a point of view, not the
idle rich. Even so, one longstanding
Dior couture customer said it wouldnt
be a collection that she orders from. I
liked it, she considered. But theres
no value here. I buy couture as an
investment and when a house is in
limbo it doesnt feel like somewhere
you want to invest large amounts of
money. I will wait to see what happens
here next season.
And so to Valentino, where Pierpaolo
Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri took
their cue from the Spanish couturier
Mariano Fortuny, and each of the
goddess gowns that emerged was more
beautifully crafted than the one before.
From velvet togas with antique
burnished gold impressions to
featherweight tulle, caped gowns and
grand kimono-style coats with oriental
embroideries and trimmed in mink, it
was an astounding feat of craftsmanship.
In a word? Perfection.
Q

WARD IVAN RAFIK FOR DIOR

RALPH & RUSSO HAUTE COUTURE

It took more than

50 embroiderers
6,000 hours to make
Ralph & Russos
bridal gown

PRADA.COM

The New Fragrance

inVOGUE
Camille wears a
fringed Saint Laurent
biker jacket with a
turtleneck by Marco
de Vincenzo and
Anthony Vaccarello
jeans. Right: in pink
Bella Freud trousers
and matching scarf
with a Saint Laurent
cardigan. Sittings
editor: Nura Khan.
Photographer:
Laura Coulson

Whats the
secret of

COOL?
MEET CAMILLE ROWE, THE
GIRL MAKING HIGH FASHION
EASY AGAIN. BY JULIA HOBBS

HAIR: KARIN BIGLER. MAKE-UP: CELIA BURTON. THANKS TO THE ROYAL OAK, E2

he blink-and-you-miss-it pace
of the fashion industry is well
documented. Most designers
now send out four fresh collections a
year to satisfy our thirst for new things
to wear. Shockwaves ripple through
the blogosphere with every incoming
hit, be it Louis Vuittons monogrammed
biker, Burberrys personalised backpack,
or Chlos souvenir jacket. Within
moments these white-hot runway
pieces become celebrities, and the
battle to own them begins.
So where does this leave the woman
who loves to shop but wants to keep
a sense of individuality and ease to
her wardrobe? Meet Camille Rowe
the 26-year-old model, actress and
Instagram star inadvertently leading
the return to rational, hype-free
style. Crucially, she looks like shes
having fun, rather than co-opting the
strained poses of street-style queens.
Rowe makes no secret of just how
much she loves to shop. This girl
falls for a star buy like the rest of us
(recent purchases include those Gucci
loafers, the perfect plane shoe, and
Saint Laurents grungy knitwear), but
theyre interspersed with well-worn finds.
Id guess 85 per cent of my wardrobe is >
71

inVOGUE
Camille in
a Gucci beret
and ribbed
top by Frame.
Left: on
Columbia Road
in a Coach coat
and vintage flares

HOW TO DO
A CAMILLE
Love that designer
piece as if its a oneoff vintage find. Not
because its a thing
Shop your way to
good karma by making
a donation to the
Red Cross after a
Net-a-Porter spree
Hold back on the
trimmings for a fresh
take on catwalk buys
Carry yourself with
a sense of occasion.
Dressing up isnt just
about going out now
Wear the same thing
time and again its a
waste to rock it once

Kicking back
in pleated
Sonia Rykiel

72

Bowl flea market make

any outfit her own. Try
on every ill-fitting vintage
piece until you find the
perfect one. I own 25 pairs
of 501s, which were all the result of trial
and error. The same goes for spotting a
good sequined minidress, best worn
one size up for a looser, laid-back feel.
It is kind of annoying when one-off
vintage finds become a thing, Rowe
continues, but then Hedi Slimane,
Clare Waight Keller and Alessandro
Michele are so good at re-crafting
those ultimate vintage pieces youre
always trying to find. When she does
splash out on expensive pieces, Rowe
says the trick is to let them be a part of
your everyday look her second
fashion rule. I would wear Vetements
starry booties with an oversized band
tee. It feels easier that way.
Rowe states a convincing case for
ditching clothing and accessorising
with nudity, her third fashion
commandment. Theres a holiday
mood to most things I wear, she says,
referring to the 200 oversized vintage
T-shirts collected mostly from Kelly
Cole in LA, which she likes to wear

on their own year-round. The aim is

to look like youre (sort of ) still in the
process of getting dressed.
The body confidence of this atypical
model is contagious. Its a French thing
to know what works beauty-wise and
stick to it. Ive basically always had the
same haircut a dishevelled midlength tumble of lemon-juice-blonde
hair. Added to her sun-kissed
complexion, an insistence on the bare
minimum of make-up means she never
looks done in the pictures she posts.
I pose, of course! But I prefer a scene
a flea market, or bathroom moment
at a dance party. I can never imagine
making myself up to take a selfie.
Rowes sense of occasion is also set
apart from that of the hyped-up style
trail. Even if its Tuesday night and
Im just at a friends place, Ill dress up
to stay in, she says. Theres something
very modern about making an effort
to hang out somewhere private.
Heres to an easy fashion life. Stay
in line for those special purchases,
schedule a day sifting through the
vintage pieces you already own, and
crack a smile for that all-important
snap. Remember: shopping is fun. Q

LAURA COULSON

vintage, she says, surveying the

rail of plush leather jackets and
mini shifts for the Vogue shoot.
As the child of a Parisian
filmmaker and a Californian
hippy, Rowes glam-rockmeets-surfer style straddles
both cultures. She was raised in
Paris but moved to New York in
2011, and is now based between
Highland Park in Los Angeles
and New Yorks Chinatown.
This is a girl who never stays
still. Despite her French roots,
she radiates a sunny, offbeat
Californian vibe even on the East
Coast she still surfs at Rockaway Beach.
So how do we begin to tap her look?
Her number one rule is not just to find
inspiration on the catwalk but to seek
authentic ideas elsewhere, particularly
offline. I tend to invest in designer
clothes that reference a favourite film
or a music scene, rather than a current
trend. Right now I love Diors white
scalloped bloomers, because they
remind me of photographer David
Hamilton in his Age of Innocence era.
There are a handful of fashion pieces
that will always be cool, she adds, and
they neednt be designer. Disco-ready
platform sandals, for instance, are key
in her wardrobe. Also classic high-waist
Wranglers, a close-cut denim jacket
and a shaggy fur. Ive got every single
colour of faux-fur coat. My closet looks
like it has the whole cast of The Muppets
in it, she laughs. Vintage items picked
up for less than 50 from the Rose

R EGE N T ST R E ET
BROM P T ON CRO S S

SL OA N E S QUA R E

M A RY L E B ON E H IGH ST R E ET

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VOGUEshops
What
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NOW

PLAY BY
THE RULES

Photographs by LAURENCE ELLIS

PRESENTING THE BLUEPRINT

FOR YOUR NEW-SEASON
WARDROBE. SUMMER CALLS
FOR CONTRASTING TEXTURES,
APRES-SPORT LAYERS AND
A STREETWISE POISE

The broderie-anglaise blouse

Double the cream: recalibrate a romantic
summer staple with unexpectedly tasteful
crpe sweat pants and glistening skate shoes

Broderie-anglaise
blouse, 199,
Claudie Pierlot.
Crpe trousers,
235, Elizabeth &
James, at Net-aPorter.com. Leather
skate shoes, 145,
Russell & Bromley.
Hair: Philippe
Tholimet. Make-up:
Ninni Nummela.
Nails: Kim Treacy.
Model: Marland
Backus. Fashion
editor: Nura Khan

79

Twill bomber jacket,

495, Gucci, at Net-aPorter.com. Tweed
miniskirt, 230, Carven

The summer bomber

LAURENCE ELLIS

Slacken tweeds stiff grip with an easy

ivory twill jacket unzipped to the clavicle

80

VOGUEshops

The workaday backpack

Seek out supple leathers and minimal hardware.
Hands-free has never looked so slick

Silk blouse, 355,

Isabel Marant.
Tracksuit trousers,
175, Joseph.
Leather rucksack,
295, Longchamp.
Skate shoes, as before

81

Ribbed wool sweater,

265, Theory. Cropped
flares, from a selection,
Coach. Leather platforms,
470, Carven. Faux-leather
and canvas tote, 36, Zara

The bright trouser

Take colour in your stride:

chilli-pepper red lags up an
optimistic resolve when worn with
black patent platform creepers

82

VOGUEshops

The personality tee

LAURENCE ELLIS

Wheres the fun in keeping shtum?

Springs best logo T-shirts spell it out

Cotton T-shirt, 150,

Victoria Victoria
Beckham. Wool
midi-skirt, 345, Tibi

83

The lingerie skirt

Cotton sweater, 410,

Philosophy by Lorenzo
Serafini. Wool and lace
skirt, 245, Theory.
Suede sandals, 355,
Stuart Weitzman for
Russell & Bromley

84

LAURENCE ELLIS

Push the underwear-asouterwear envelope by pairing

with jolie-laide crochet

Contrast-stitch shirt,
120. Contast-stitch
miniskirt, 110. Both
Whistles. Organic-silk
mules, 55, H&M.
Studded leather bag,
345, Sandro

VOGUEshops

The office slipper

Bat away outmoded workwear

injunctions. Yes, you can wear slippers,
so long as theyre in nifty black satin

85

VOGUEshops
Viscose dress,
360, Sportmax.
Leather ankle
boots, 345, Tibi.
For stockists, all
pages, see Vogue
Information

The white ankle boot

LAURENCE ELLIS

Colgate-white boots are your new

sartorial smile. Make them pop
against a monochrome backdrop

86

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THE SHILLA 20-21 APRIL 2016

THE MOST SIGNIFICANT CONFERENCE FOR THE INDUSTRY
Hosted and curated by Suzy Menkes, International Vogue Editor, the Cond Nast
International Luxury Conference is the premier event for business and creative leaders
from the fashion and luxury industry. 500 attendees from over 30 countries will gather
in Seoul, the hottest new luxury hub, for two days of learning, networking and discovery.
Find out more at CNILuxury.com.
SPEAKERS INCLUDE:
AIMEE KIM

SOPHIE HACKFORD

PARTNER, MCKINSEY & CO.

JUDITH CLARK

ANGELICA CHEUNG

PROFESSOR OF FASHION AND

MUSEOLOGY, UNIVERSITY OF THE
ARTS LONDON

EDITOR IN CHIEF, VOGUE CHINA

DIRECTOR, WIRED CONSULTING

AND WIRED EDUCATION

STEPHEN JONES
FOUNDER, STEPHEN JONES
MILLINERY

ANYA HINDMARCH

KIM YOUNG-SEONG

FOUNDER, ANYA HINDMARCH

HEAD OF FABRICS RESEARCH,

CHANEL

STEPHEN WEBSTER

MARIE-CLAIRE DAVEU

FOUNDER AND CREATIVE

DIRECTOR, STEPHEN WEBSTER

CLAUDIO CAL
GLOBAL COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR, GIORGIO ARMANI

ERWAN RAMBOURG

CHIEF SUSTAINABILITY OFFICER AND

HEAD OF INTERNATIONAL INSTITUTIONAL AFFAIRS, KERING

MD AND HEAD OF CONSUMER AND

RETAIL EQUITY RESEARCH, HSBC

NADJA SWAROVSKI

EVA CHEN

MEMBER OF THE EXECUTIVE

BOARD, SWAROVSKI

HEAD OF FASHION PARTNERSHIPS,

INSTAGRAM

STEVE JUNG
CREATIVE DIRECTOR AND
DESIGNER, STEVE J & YONI P

STUART VEVERS
EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR,
COACH INC.

NICOLA FORMICHETTI
ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, DIESEL

SUNG-JOO KIM

OLIVIER ROUSTEING

FOUNDER, CHAIRPERSON AND

CHIEF VISIONARY OFFICER,
MCM AND SUNGJOO GROUP

GIAN GIACOMO FERRARIS

CEO, GIANNI VERSACE

CREATIVE DIRECTOR, BALMAIN

JAMES LIMA
FILM DIRECTOR

RUPERT SANDERSON

SUZY MENKES

FOUNDER, RUPERT SANDERSON

INTERNATIONAL VOGUE EDITOR,

COND NAST INTERNATIONAL

JASON WU
SANGHOON PARK

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR,
WOMENSWEAR, BOSS

DIRECTOR, ID HOSPITAL

WIM PIJBES

JOHN HOOKS

SEOHYUN LEE

GENERAL DIRECTOR,
RIJKSMUSEUM

CEO, PACIFIC GLOBAL MANAGEMENT

PRESIDENT AND CEO,

SAMSUNG C&T

YONI PAI
CREATIVE DIRECTOR AND
DESIGNER, STEVE J & YONI P

JOOWON PARK
DIRECTOR, DIVISION 0914, SIMONE

SEE THE FULL SPEAKER LIST AND FIND OUT MORE AT:

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CO-LEAD PARTNERS

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MAJOR SPONSORS

EVENT SPONSORS

VOGUEview

On floor: stoneware vase,

330, Iva Polachova, at
Thenewcraftsmen.com.
Sycamore dish, 460.
Oak table, 580. Both
Willelworthy.co.uk.
Glass jug, 175, Jochen Holz,
at Thenewcraftsmen.com.
Marmoreal board, 194,
Max Lamb. Magnifying
glass, 92, Skultuna. Both
at Makersandbrothers.com.
On table: stool, 93,
James Carroll, at
Makersandbrothers.com.
Glass jug, 175, Jochen Holz,
as before. Glass cylinder,
175, Edmond Byrne, at
Thenewcraftsmen.com.
Jug, 59, Arran Street East,
at Makersandbrothers.com.
On wall: quilt, 685, Forestand-Found. Styling: Rachel
Lucas-Craig. Photograph:
Marius W Hansen

Meet the g
MAKERS
Craft is gaining a currency thats
winning it a place alongside luxury
brands. Hannah Nathanson talks to
the new generation of artisans

etting hold of spoon carver and

clog-making apprentice JoJo
Wood is nigh-on impossible.
The 21-year-old daughter of worldrenowned craftsman Robin Wood, she
lives and works in a remote yurt in
Herefordshire. She doesnt check her
mobile when carving her intricately
shaped spoons, sometimes out of wood
that she finds right on her doorstep
I listen to the birdsong; theres not a
road for miles, so its very quiet and

when she does need to make a call, she

climbs a nearby hill to get reception.
Its a very different lifestyle from that
of her millennial peers, baptised as
digital natives and constantly in screen
contact: Its very simple and peaceful.
My friends think Im a bit weird, says
Wood, who ties up her auburn curls in
a messy bun and wears red-leather
clogs she inherited from her mother
when she works. Although shes not
completely cut off from the virtual >
91

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VOGUEview
Craft works
London Craft Week (May 3 to 7),
now in its second year, showcases
the worlds best craftsmanship.
From intricate jewellery-making to
calligraphy on a giant scale, Vogue
rounds up LCW events not to be
missed (Londoncraftweek.com)

KRISTIN PERERS; AMBER ROWLANDS

BACKSTAGE PASS

world her spoons, which cost up to

150 and are carved out of English
cherry, birch and willow woods, are sold
online she still feels much healthier
than being plugged in 24 hours a day.
Young makers like Wood are
helping craft to dust off its fusty
image. It used to be something
people did as a hobby at the weekend,
she says. Now a craftsperson is much
more respected. And their one-off
products, which combine heritage
skills with alluring design, are helping
to give craft a new luxury tag.
Just as it is the expert workmanship
that goes into an Herms Birkin that
makes it one of the most coveted
luxury items, so discerning collectors
Shaker makers:
are now poring over the smoothness
clockwise from
of a marbled wooden bowl, the finesse
top left, chair
of finely blown glass, or the braiding
maker Yinka Ilori;
spoon carver JoJo
techniques used to make a handWood; indigo dyer
embroidered cushion.
Katherine May
Katherine May, a 33-year-old indigo
dyer, who grows her own indigo plants
on an allotment in east London, is
one of more than 100 makers stocked
at the New Craftsmen in Mayfair. The
immaculately curated shop, housed in
a 19th-century former breeches factory,
was opened three years ago as a highend platform for craft. Mays patchwork
silk-hemp cushions, coloured using
flower- and plant-based dyes, are
displayed alongside monogrammed
breadboards and throws
woven from mohair and Every chair has
merino. Each item at the
New Craftsmen comes a story people
with a maker card, want to share that
telling the story behind
the product. Its this unique narrative
and provenance that connects the buyer
with the maker, and sets craft above the
humdrum of mass-production.
Yinka Ilori, a 28-year-old chair
maker who works from a studio in east
London, uses Nigerian parables passed
down by his parents to create a new
narrative through each piece: Every
chair has a story, he says. Furniture
evokes different conversations people
want to share that. Ilori spends up to

Take a behind-thescenes tour of the

Royal Opera House
(May 3 and 5),
ending up on the
buildings top floor,
which is dedicated
to theatrical crafts
from lighting to
prop-making
and dyeing.

five weeks working on his brightly

coloured chairs, which are made using
upcycled furniture and upholstered
with fabric from his mothers collection
of hand-woven prints. Although he
says he has never really considered
them artworks, his designs are in the
Vitra Design Museum in Germany
and the Guggenheim in Spain.
While London is a base for most
young makers, many feel connected to
nature through their craft. Woodworker
Max Bainbridge and his quilter
girlfriend, Abigail Booth, both 25, set
up furniture business Forest-andFound in their back garden in
Walthamstow. They work from a
cabin, which they built with reclaimed
wood. While Bainbridge carves
smooth red-oak bowls and walnut
chopping boards from Forestry
Commission wood, Booth forages for
dye in Epping Forest. She charges up
to 1,000 for her hand-stitched quilts,
which can take months to make.
The skill, time and creativity that go
into such pieces are helping craft earn a
new niche in the luxury market. But
for many young craftspeople its the
pure joy of making that drives them.
Its incredibly satisfying, producing
something with your own two hands
that is a physical, tangible object, says
JoJo Wood. And that will probably
last longer than I will.
Q

WRITINGS ON THE WALL

Chinese calligrapher Wang Dongling
performs a large-scale piece of
calligraphic art at the British Museum
(3-5pm, May 6), using his entire body
to control his brush.

PRIME CUT
Join knifemaker
Ben Edmonds
and Mark Hix
(left) at the
Tramshed on
May 5 for a
masterclass
in the forgotten
art of carving.
Edmonds will
also show
how to make
a bespoke knife.

DESIGNER DINNER
Chef Skye Gyngell hosts a white
porcelain dinner at Spring restaurant
(7.30pm, May 3) with ceramicists
Cristina Vezzini, Billy Lloyd and Valria
Nascimento, who created the 5,200
porcelain petals on Springs walls.

93

ROB & GEORGINA HAVE BEEN A COUPLE FOR 4 YEARS

THEKOOPLES.COM

Rose-tinted
spectacles:
clockwise from
left, Jean
Campbell, Vogue
October 2013;
Elizabeth and
Mary Linley (circa
1772) by Thomas
Gainsborough;
Lily James in
Erdem at the
London premiere
of Pride and
Prejudice and
Zombies; Reese
Witherspoon and
Frances OConnor
in The Importance
of Being Earnest
(2002)

First BLUSH
With pale complexions celebrated everywhere from
the catwalk to a new exhibition, its going to be
a good year for English Roses, says Hermione Eyre
ever was there such a thorny
Tradition, rebellion: it is what we
compliment as being called do best. Ladylike behaviour has
an English Rose. It implies many virtues, not least the opportunity
poise, bloom, innocence and even for sending oneself up. English Rose
goodness. But it can also connote a has long been placed in arch cultural
slightly drippy, virginal femininity. quotation marks. In PG Wodehouse it
Actresses fear the tag will limit them; is often the men who blush like roses,
witness Lily Jamess recently expressed while the women are amazonian. The
wish to swap corsets for a
model Jean Campbell
tracksuit and no bra.
The English the perfect English Rose
Elton John reclaimed
in the Louis Vuitton
the phrase at the funeral of Rose has now campaign is in fact
Diana, Princess of Wales
put down Scottish, daughter of the
(Goodbye,
Englands
Earl of Cawdor.
roots in
rose/ May you ever grow
Now a new show at the
in our hearts), yet today
Hollywood Bowes Museum about
what unites those called
the English Rose in art
English Roses seems to be a burning broadens the stereotype by showcasing
desire to shake off the tag and go punk. artists (a rare 17th-century self-portrait
Take Ruth Bell, the Kentish model by Mary Beale) and sportswomen (a
currently starring for Saint Laurent, fresh-faced female archer in William
whose classic dewy complexion is Powell Friths The Fair Toxophilites)
offset by a severe buzzcut.
as well as actresses and singers

96

(Gainsboroughs
portraits of the
magnificent Mrs
Siddons, and the
Linley sisters, from
the musical family known as the Nest
of Nightingales). Most, controversially,
are brunettes. But classic flesh tones
are everywhere, from yellowy English
pink, made from buckthorn berries,
to Van Dycks ethereal lead white
and Reynoldss carmine, which has
faded, leaving his sitters with a paler
bloom than he or Nature intended.
Although the phrase is a latecomer,
first popularised in the comic opera
Merrie England in 1902, we
can apply it, post hoc, to
English women as early as
the 15th-century Rose
of Raby, Cecily Neville,
mother of Edward IV and
Richard III. Her name
evokes Oscar Wildes fragrant
creation Cecily Cardew, a girl
whose innocence verges on camp.
You are like a pink rose, Cousin
Cecily, wrote Wilde, in order that
actresses from Dorothy Tutin to Reese
Witherspoon might blush. Of course,
the English Rose has now put down
roots in Hollywood. And over time it
is surely evolving into a rose of many
colours, while keeping its qualities of
sweetness and candour.
Q
English Rose: Feminine Beauty from Van
Dyck to Sargent is at the Bowes Museum
in Durham from May 14 to September 25

BRUCE WEBER; DULWICH PICTURE GALLERY; PAUL BOWDEN; ALL STAR; WENN

VOGUEview

JENNIFER STAPLE-CLARK
FOUNDER OF UNITE FOR SIGHT

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VOGUEview

The beat
GOES ON
Spoken-word poet Kate Tempests
parables of city life have laid the
foundations for a startling debut novel.
By Louisa McGillicuddy

oet, writer and rapper

Kate Tempest is focused.
Brutally focused. In her
music producers south London
studio she is running, back and
forth, between recording sessions
on the ground floor and this
Vogue shoot on the terrace upstairs.
Shes only just arrived home
after an eight-month-long world
tour for Everybody Down, the
debut solo album that earned
her a Mercury nomination in
2014, and is already immersed
in its yet-to-be-titled follow-up.
On
paper,
gritty
social
commentary from a spoken-word
poet a genre that still conjures
images of posturing students in
sombre turtlenecks shouldnt
have mass appeal. But Tempest
can draw all manner of audiences,
from well-heeled theatregoers
to thousand-strong crowds at
Glastonbury
down
to
the
assembled bodies of a squat party.
Ive been to her live shows (once
spotting Tempests fellow south
London native Naomi Campbell
among the pews), and seen people
in the audience swaying along to
her tempo, bursting into tears,
lining up after the curtain call for
the chance to speak to her.
For all Tempests emotional
intimacy on stage, in person theres
a disconnect. Sitting opposite one
another rather formally at her
producers kitchen table, beats
reverberating from the studio >

Poetry please:
Tempest found
fame in 2012
with her epic
poem Brand
New Ancients.
Photograph:
John Spinks

101

VOGUEview

Tempests way of
coping was to rap at
strangers on buses,
bouncers, riot police
with bright blue eyes that flit about
during our conversation. Theres not
a scrap of make-up on her indeed,
she refuses any hair, make-up or
styling for this story.
Tempest clearly struggles with the
self-promotion that comes with a
rising profile. Its a strange thing to
accept that youre suddenly becoming
someone who exists in the third
person, she says slowly, fiddling with
rings on fingers wrapped around a
mug of tea. I think its important for
me to say, I also exist as an image
of a successful woman. And I can
look like that in a pair of tracksuit
bottoms. When she hits a
passionate point, her voice clear
and resolutely accented slips into
the rhythm of her performances.
The effect is just as entrancing when
sitting a few inches away. Because,
on stage, Kate Tempest is hypnotic.
Reciting narrative poems such as the
75-minute-long Brand New Ancients
by heart, she has all the theatricality
of an evangelical preacher. Clutching
herself, gesticulating in the air, her
words tumble out like incantations.
Established masters of her craft such
as Benjamin Zephaniah, Billy Bragg
and John Cooper Clarke have long
championed her, and the literary
establishment (Carol Ann Duffy,
Jeanette Winterson, Ali Smith) has
since fallen for her, too. I read Brand
New Ancients as a text before I realised
it was a performance, says the artist
Cornelia Parker. It read as a contemporary anthem it blew me away.
Tempests poetry has its roots in
south London, where she was born,
grew up and still lives, but always
unravels into something universal.
The call-to-arms urgency with
102

which she writes about the issues

affecting her generation from social
prejudice and unemployment to
modern love and selfies has
earned her comparisons to the Beat
poets. Its one that she clearly
welcomes, having in the past
appropriated Allen Ginsbergs famous
opening line of Howl, I saw the best
minds of my generation destroyed by
madness, for her own contemporary
satire: I saw the best minds of my
generation destroyed by payment
plans. For all her earnestness,
Tempest has a pleasingly dry sense of
humour. (She had her long-term
partners name, India, tattooed on
her arm, and when they broke up
she reflected in one poem: Now
I wear your name in capitals
across my right arm/ And people
think I found myself in Goa.)
Tempest was born in Brockley,
the youngest of five siblings.
Her father was a labourer who
later retrained as a criminal
lawyer, her mother a teacher.
Kate is candid, in person and in
her work, about the bullying
and frustration she experienced
at school: Growing up, I was
denied anything other than
this worthless identity that was
inflicted upon me because I didnt fit
the traditional idea of beauty, of
femininity, she says matter-of-factly.
I was this young gay misfit.
Performing became a kind of
therapy. She started rapping at anyone
who would listen strangers on the
bus, bouncers, riot police. At 16, she
left school and began entering MC
battles in the record shops of Soho.
After periods at the Brit School and
Goldsmiths, she segued on to the
spoken-word circuit and, in 2012,
her epic orchestral-backed poem
Brand New Ancients won her the
prestigious Ted Hughes Prize for new
poetry. At 26, she was the youngest
ever recipient in its history. Shes
been on the road, preaching doom
and gloom, as she puts it, almost
constantly since. If anything, Ive got
more nervous, she says of her success.
Its interesting, spending years playing
to nobody. The minute you get a
chance, you realise how important it is
that you dont waste a minute of it.
And so Tempest has written a novel.
The Bricks that Built the Houses was
scribbled in notebooks during her
time on tour, and follows the
intertwining lives of a group of
characters that have cropped up in

Top: Kate Tempest performing

at 2015s Best Kept Secret Festival.
Below: her Mercury Prize-nominated
debut album Everybody Down

The Bricks that

Built the Houses
is published by
Bloomsbury at
14.99

her works over the past five years.

Whatever was happening in my own
life influenced who these characters
were becoming, she explains. Do her
friends ever mind the autobiographical
nature of her work? Of course not,
she snaps, before softening. Its not
like Im saying, So-and-so picks his
nose. Its just the way I cope with
the onslaught of life, she adds,
tucking a tendril of strawberry-blonde
hair behind her ear.
Following a marathon session
reading James Joyce, her first draft
went out to her publishers almost as
a stream of consciousness. My editor
was like, Were going to have to have
a chat about speech she recalls
with a conspiratorial smile. The
end result, however, is coherently
structured and just as vivid as her
poems. This is a landmark in finishing
stuff that Ive been trying to say for a
long time, she says, relaxing at last
with the end of our hour together in
sight. Now I can move on.
Q

GETTY

below, there seems to be no question

that flusters her sangfroid during our
discussion about the latest addition
to her hyphenated career: novelist
(more of which later).
In person, Tempest is careful with
her words, almost on guard, happy to
sit in silence rather than waffle
through a pause. Though 30 years old
she is incredibly fresh-faced (once
rapping on a track that she still
gets away with a childs bus pass),

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DARREN GERRISH; NICK HARVEY

VOGUEevent

Lottie Moss
with Nick
Knights
portrait
of her
sister, Kate

Edie Campbell.
Right: Dakota
Johnson and
Derek Blasberg

The 100 club

THE PARTY FAITHFUL WERE OUT IN FORCE
TO CELEBRATE VOGUES CENTENARY SHOW

Juergen Teller and Olympia Campbell.

Below: Mario Testino with his
2008 portrait of Kate Moss

n February, the National Portrait Gallery opened its doors

for Vogue 100: A Century of Style. This celebration was in
turn marked by the best sort of Vogue party hosted by
Alexandra Shulman and Leon Max, it jostled with a cast
including Peter Lindbergh, Juergen Teller (in a fluoro-pink
beanie), Christopher Bailey, Erdem Moralioglu, Christopher
Kane, Antony Gormley, Penelope Tree, Eva Herzigova, Karlie
Kloss, Jourdan Dunn and Jerry Hall, who posed for photos
alongside one of her career-defining moments Norman
Parkinsons 1976 image of her, statuesque in a red swimsuit.
As partygoers caroused from room to room, there was
plenty of space for nostalgia. Surrounded by his good-looking
team, Mario Testino gazed at one of his many shots of Kate
Moss, while Johnnie Shand Kydd forensically admired Vogues
early years and Nick Knight was visibly moved by his extensive
contribution to the show. Moved too was Dakota Johnson,
shimmering in a lam Marc Jacobs gown, who let out a gasp of
surprise as she saw Alasdair McLellans cover portrait of her.
Later in the evening, the party retired to dinner in the
Victorian galleries, at a long table decorated with red roses and
overlooked by marble busts. And with that many designers in
attendance, the talk was inevitably of not just what had been
but what was to come looking forward to the next century. SF

Yana and Leon

Max. Below: Jerry
Hall. Below right:
Christopher Bailey

Erin OConnor,
Peter Lindbergh
and Alexandra
Shulman

The dinner
table in the
Victorian
galleries

Left: Federico Marchetti and Alison

Loehnis. Above: Diego Della Valle
and Jonathan Newhouse

107

SPRING
break
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Photographs by Janneke van der Hagen
Styling by Joanna Schlenzka

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Annetta trainers,
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SUEDE BAG,
1,495

HAVVA LEATHER
SANDALS, 250

H&M SILK DRESS, 60

6WAYS
J CREW
SILK TROUSERS,
198

MARC CAIN
WOOL/
CASHMERE
SWEATER,
165

THE HOLIDAY WARDROBES OF

THE WOMEN WERE FOLLOWING NOW,
DECONSTRUCTED BY NAOMI SMART
DODO BAR OR
COTTON WRAP DRESS,
220, AT MATCHES
FASHION.COM

DAVID WEBB
GOLD,
DIAMOND
AND ENAMEL
RING, FROM
15,100

MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION

BELTED SWIMSUIT, 425

PROENZA SCHOULER
LEATHER BAG, 920, AT
MATCHESFASHION.COM

DECK SIDE
INSTA-INSPO Sabine Getty
DONT BOARD WITHOUT A wash of
Mediterranean white in everything from
swimsuits to Moroccan-style slippers
WEAR IT HERE Anchor next to Tuscanys Hotel
Il Pellicano. Order the lime lobster spaghetti
by Michelin-starred chef Sebastiano Lombardi
TAKE A SNAP Lying on the candy-yellow
striped sunloungers, like former guest
Slim Aarons
114

HERMES
LEATHER AND WICKER
BRACELET, 490

SANAYI 313
EMBROIDERED
LINEN SLIPPERS,
FROM 790

JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; PIXELATE.BIZ

Summer

ELINA LINARDAKI
JEWELLED LEATHER
SANDALS, 129

VOGUEspy

MAX MARA
COTTON
SWEATER,
280

MONSOORI
BROCADE
TROUSERS,
920

ARAKS
BIKINI TOP, 150, AT
HARVEY NICHOLS

ISABEL MARANT
ROPE SANDALS,
335

PACIFIC WAVE
INSTA-INSPO Pernille Teisbaek
CHILLING IN The gap-year look: anything
tie-dye, metallic or psychedelic goes
WEAR IT HERE Waiting for the surf
to break near cactus-clad boutique
Hotel Escondido in Mexico
START THE EVENING Sipping tamarind
frozen margaritas after volunteering at
artist retreat Casa Wabi foundation,
designed by architect Tadao Ando

MISSONI
BIKINI
BOTTOMS,
330

GOLDEN GOOSE
DELUXE LEATHER
SNEAKERS, 300

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
EMBROIDERED COTTON AND
LEATHER TOTE, 795, AT HARRODS

SHOUROUK
BEADED BRACELET,
FROM 100

MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH

LEATHER SANDALS, FROM
300, AT MILLE

FARAONE
MENNELLA
GOLD HOOPS,
4,768

HUNZA G
SWIMSUIT,
100

BALLY
LEATHER
BELT, 295

ISLAND DIVE
INSTA-INSPO Alexa Chung
BEACH-BAG ESSENTIALS Neat on-the-go
gingham and ribbon-tied swimwear, picture
perfect for that underwater shellfie
WEAR IT HERE Off the white-sanded shore of
Zanzibars &Beyond Mnemba Island lodge
IDEAL HOLIDAY COMPANIONS
A pod of dolphins

COACH COTTON SKIRT, 425

VIOLET LAKE
BIKINI TOP, 70.
BOTTOMS, 70
SOLID & STRIPED
COTTON SHORTS,
100, AT SELFRIDGES

OLIVER PEOPLES
THE ROW
SUNGLASSES,
214, AT HARRODS

PENELOPE CHILVERS
SATIN ESPADRILLES, 129

FRENCH
MARKET
INSTA-INSPO Jeanne Damas
POPPING OUT IN Jane Birkininspired ribbed mini and buckle
belt. Dont forget your basket
WEAR IT HERE Monday morning
at Nice antiques market, before
lunch at La Colombe dOr
LOOK FOR Hand-blown Biot
glasswear, Chanel costume
jewellery and Sixties postcards

MILLY
VISCOSE
MINIDRESS,
265

SENSI STUDIO
STRAW TOTE,
FROM 290

115

www.johnfrieda.co.uk

Together, we can give brunettes their time in the sun.

Never before. A John Frieda in-shower treatment tailor-made for brunettes. Go one
shade lighter, for a natural sunkissed glow. In one wash. Its a good time to be a brunette.

Me & John & Brilliant Brunette Visibly Brighter

. Together we can.

AC

E
EL

T,

CHOPARD
ROSE-GOLD, ONYX AND
DIAMOND BRACELET, 2,050

87 5

O LD

VALENTINO

AN D M OTH ER- O

F- P

EA

RL

BR

VOGUEspy

AR

L
PE

SG

DE BEERS
DIAMOND
BRACELET,
1,700

FREEDOM
ANKLET, 8.50,
AT TOPSHOP

VA
N
BULGARI
PINK-GOLD
BRACELET,
FROM 1,240

CL

EE

&

HERMES GOLD
BRACELET,2,400

OTZAR
GOLD AND SAPPHIRE
ANKLE BRACELET,
FROM 5,140

THEO FENNELL
GOLD BRACELET, 1,200
BEE GODDESS
GOLD AND
DIAMOND
BRACELET,
2,995, AT
HARRODS

CHAIN reaction
CAROL WOOLTON CHARTS THE ADVANCE OF
THE ANKLE BRACELET, FROM RUNWAY TO STREET

TIFFANY
ROSE-GOLD
NECKLACES,
FROM 770 EACH

118

RAPHAELE
CANOT
DIAMOND
NECKLACE,
1,380, AT DOVER
STREET MARKET

JOHN RAWLINGS; JASON LLOYD-EVANS

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION

SYDNEY EVAN
GOLD AND
RUBY BANGLE,
FROM 1,150

CALVIN KLEIN
COLLECTION

et ready for a jewellery moment prompted by

the anklets (worn threaded through trainer heeltabs) on Calvin Kleins s/s 16 catwalk. Jewelleryloving women have decorated their ankles for
centuries myth has it that there is even an ankletwearing etiquette: a married woman who loops hers
on the right, for example, is supposedly open to the
idea of a love affair. This season, both left and right
are layered with chains, strings and charms that tinkle
with every step. A gold Infinity necklace by Tiffany
can be wrapped beautifully around ankles twice, while
Sydney Evan will make its ruby-tipped bracelets for
the ankles to order. For a tougher, chunkier look,
try an Herms Anchor chain, a Spartacus chain by
Cartier or one of Delphine Hervieus bicycle chains
set with black diamonds, sapphires and turquoise.
Prefer a dainty, bohemian look? Try Bee Goddesss
Star bracelet, or a delicate bracelet chain by De Beers
or Bulgari for size. Just add trainers.
Q

STEPHEN WEBSTER
GOLD AND DIAMOND
BRACELET, 1,400

HERMES ROSE-GOLD
BRACELET, 9,860

P H O T O G R A P H Y: MA X O P P E N H E I M

VOGUEspy
EMPORIO ARMANI
PATENT-LEATHER
FLATS, 200
PRADA
VELVET AND
LEATHER
BAG, 1,190

JW ANDERSON
EMBELLISHED
TROUSERS, 695

Pradas plush velvet

Pionnire (inspired
by a hunters game
bag and army
belt-straps) is the
new word in cool

CAROLINA
HERRERA
SILK DRESS,
2,090

Lead
TIME

The zip is
it so says
Jonathan
Anderson

ALREADY THINKING AHEAD TO AUTUMN?

NAOMI SMART TAKES A FIRST LOOK AT
THE PRE-COLLECTIONS

LOUIS VUITTON
BRASS AND
PALLADIUM
NECKLACE,
1,000

BURBERRY
WOOL/SILK
JACKET, 1,496

SEA NEW YORK

COTTON JUMPSUIT, 450
NATHALIE TRAD
RESIN CLUTCH, 1,000

Military details
will stand and
deliver on style

MONO MODE

Flaunt sun-kissed
shoulders well
into autumn with
Preens LBD

CHANEL
LEATHER AND
GROSGRAIN
MULES, 760

PIXELATE.BIZ

PREEN
JEWELLED CREPE
DRESS, 1,702

Presenting Chanels latest

twist on its two-tone
classic complete with
snake-wrapped pearl

JOSEPH
DUCHESSE-SATIN
SKIRT, 295

123

VOGUEspy
Sabine Gettys
Memphis-inspired
collection of
zigzag chokers,
cuffs and wave
earrings, Candy
Call, sing for
themselves

Biscuit and
caramel tones
are big for
autumn/winter.
But, for now,
cut with a stripe
of sunny yellow

MARNI WOOL
COAT, 1,620

GUCCI
SILK/LUREX
SKIRT, 1,100

SABINE G
TOPAZ CUFF,
10,000

VICTORIA BECKHAM
SEERSUCKER TOP, 550

ELECTRO POP

MARY KATRANTZOU
CREPE DRESS, 330, AT
MATCHESFASHION.COM

STELLA M CCARTNEY
COTTON TOP, 415

ETRO
CREPE SKIRT,
685

CELINE
FELT AND LEATHER
SHOPPER, FROM 1,100

The statement
earring still
reigns supreme.
Collect and layer
Diors modern
heirlooms

RUPERT
SANDERSON
VELVET HEELS,
395

DIOR
CRYSTAL
EARRING,
FROM 350

DIOR
CRYSTAL
EARRING,
FROM 350

VERSACE
CANVAS AND
LEATHER BELT,
300

124

PIXELATE.BIZ

Autumnal
tones of burnt
red are an
unexpected
delight

FASHIONtravel

STAY

SEVILLE
For Marchs Country Life
shoot, above left, the Vogue team
travelled to the heart of Andalucia.
By Philippa Durell

Set in the Andalucian hilltop

town of Carmona, 15 minutes from
the centre of Seville, Casa Palacio de
Carmona is a 15th-century palace.
Restored to a charmingly rustic state,
the property has a distinctly Moorish
feel, with deep orange courtyards
and ogee arches separating the varied
salons. The dynamic owner, Felipe,
will happily rustle up local cuisine on
request, along with a bottle from the
ample wine cellar. Casadecarmona.com

The Feria de Sevilla occurs

shortly after the Semana
Santa, or Easter Holy
Week this year it runs
from April 12 to 17. The
fiesta consists of horsedrawn carriages carrying
Sevilles grandest citizens
daily through the city to
meet with the bullfighters
at La Real Maestranza.
Fairgrounds and festivities
line the Guadalquivir River
for six days and nights.

EAT
What to eat in Seville? Tapas, of course.
On the recommendation of sevillanos, we can
confirm the montadito piripi (little ham sandwiches)
at Bodeguita Romero are unrivalled, closely followed
by the selection at two other tapas specialists:
El Rinconcillo and La Fresquita.

BUY

PACK
MARC CAIN
WOVEN LEATHER
MULES, 149
MILLY CREPE
DRESS, 385

VERSACE
METAL EARRINGS, 294

126

For traditional
flamenco dresses,
ponchos and
tasselled shawls visit
Pol Nez and
Rocio Peralta, the
two best stores in
the city and the
only places to get
your Feria outfit.

ALASDAIR McLELLAN; ALAMY; SEVILLETAPASTOURS.COM

DO

VOGUEchecklist
This month we celebrate long weekends, the seasonal swimwear
overhaul and new collections from two of Britains most prized brands
Edited by VIRGINIA CHADWYCK-HEALEY

Floral
notes
A perennial favourite with
the Vogue team, Liberty
Londons iconic floral
prints now adorn three
of our summer essentials,
adding a fresh twist to your
holiday wardrobe.

DOLCE & GABBANA

BIKINI, 330,
DOLCEGABBANA.COM

MIGUELINA
SWIMSUIT, 160,
MIGUELINA.COM

DANA LEVY
LIBERTY-PRINT
COTTON HAIR
WRAP, 78,
DANALEVY.CO.UK

LIBERTY LONDON
CANVAS AND
LEATHER TOTE, 395,
LIBERTY.CO.UK

ASOS SWIMSUIT,
28, ASOS.COM

SPLASH HITS
UGG LIBERTY-PRINT
COTTON ESPADRILLES, 95,
UGGAUSTRALIA.CO.UK

TOMMY HILFIGER
SWIMSUIT, 70,
TOMMY.COM

MELISSA ODABASH
BIKINI, 186,
ODABASH.COM

Were feeling that springtime yearning to update our swimwear

and dive into a new style for this years beach excursions. From
sporty one-pieces to fruity bikinis, your search starts here...

VALENTINO
LEATHER SHOES, 645,
VALENTINO.COM

A
CHANGE
IN
TEMPO

Spring is the ideal time to invest in some

colourful wrist candy. Tiffanys chic
new East West watches feature
interchangeable straps.

Highs & lows

VALENTINO LEATHER SANDALS, 905, VALENTINO.COM

128

With embellishment set to be

an enduring trend this season,
Valentino has options to tempt both
fans of flats and those who love the
high life. Of course, you could just
add both to your basket

TIFFANY & CO WATCH WITH LEATHER

STRAP, 2,850, TIFFANY.CO.UK

ARCHIVE BY ALEXA
AT MARKS & SPENCER
SHIRT, 35, MARKSAND
SPENCER.COM

MAKING WAVES
We love this striking
beach statement,
complete with frills,
stripes and flair,
from Paris-based
Mes Demoiselles.

Alexas archive adventure

MES DEMOISELLES
COTTON TIERED DRESS, 180,
MESDEMOISELLESPARIS.COM

Marks & Spencer has invited Vogue contributing editor Alexa Chung to design
a collection of 30 pieces, which she has reinterpreted from the brands past lines.
Archive By Alexa reflects her signature style and includes tea dresses, pleated
skirts and trench coats. We predict the Harry blouse, above, will be an instant hit.

LEVIS
COTTON OVERCOAT,
105, LEVI.COM

DESMOND & DEMPSEY

COTTON PYJAMAS, 95,
DESMONDANDDEMPSEY.COM

Fashion-packed weekends
Ensure your next minibreak is stylish from start to finish with
our selection of the most elegant holiday accoutrements. And if
youre heading to Rome, theres a chic treat in store

PATRICK DEMARCHELIER; PIXELATE.BIZ

J CREW SUNGLASSES,
118, JCREW.COM

FENDI
LEATHER BAG,
4,680, FENDI.COM

FENDIS
SUITE
DREAMS

PERRIER-JOUET
BELLE EPOQUE ROSE, 200,
AT HARVEYNICHOLS.COM

DR SEBAGH SUPREME
BODY CREAM, 130,
DRSEBAGH.COM

Romes newly opened

Palazzo Fendi takes
fashionable
accommodation to a
new level. There are
seven suites to
choose from, each as
stunning as the next.
From 400 a night.
Fendiprivate
suites.com

129

www.sensai-cosmetics.com

SILKY DESIGN ROUGE

Amplify your beauty
with the red glow of silk

Red that flatters the beauty of your complexion.

Red that enhances the brilliance of your eyes.
Discover the red that is made for you.

Skin enriched with the moisture of Silk

Exclusively at Harrods
The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor

HARLEY WEIR. STYLED BY JANE HOW. HAIR: MALCOLM EDWARDS. MAKE-UP: MARK CARRASQUILLO. MODEL: AGNES NIESKE ABMA

vogue

Silk and lace slip dress

with shorts, 1,815,
Alberta Ferretti.
Leather cowboy boots,
1,860, Vetements, at
Matchesfashion.com

free SPIRIT
With a summer of music festivals approaching, where better to look for
style inspiration than inside the Rolling Stones wardrobe? Kate Moss slips into
the bands original Ossie Clark jumpsuits and crushed velvet flares. Dreaming
of Coachella? Theres a spellbinding mix of textures happening in fashion now,
from handicraft tie-dye tops to light-reflecting synthetics, outlandish clashes to
summer classics. Cue white jeans (with frayed hems), oatmeal linen tailoring
(sleeves pushed up) and a mannish white shirt (seductively unbuttoned). On that
note, ensure your underpinnings are up to standard. The seasons eyelash-lace-edged
camisoles, slips and corset tops are certainly worthy of exposure.
131

On with the

SHOW
As a new Rolling Stones exhibition opens, Kate Moss brings
to life some of the bands most unforgettable costumes, while
enduring fan Bella Freud remembers the sound and style of the
raucously sexual group who captured the imagination of millions
Photographs by Craig McDean. Styling by Kate Moss
132

Gimme shelter
Opposite: Kate Moss
flies the Britannia-flag
cape designed by
Chrissie Walsh and worn
by Mick Jagger during
the bands European
Tour of June 1982.
Linen hotpants, from
a selection, Isabel
Marant. Suede and
leather boots, 1,150,
Rodarte, at Selfridges

Sparks will fly

This page: Kate comes
elegantly undone in
a laced and studded
jumpsuit by Ossie Clark,
one of many from Micks
collection. They are
so bloody comfortable,
says the singer. Bianca
and I would even wear
them off stage we had
them in every colour.
Hair: Sam McKnight.
Make-up: Charlotte
Tilbury. Nails: Anatole
Rainey. Archivist: Isobel
Work. Set design: Andy
Hillman. Production:
North Six Europe.
Digital artwork: D Touch

133

Jumpin
Jack Flash
Ossie Clarks all-in-ones
had flare. This
crushed-velvet version
was worn by Mick on
stage in 1973. Some
of them are beautiful,
and some of them are
more hilarious than
beautiful, but I loved
them all, he says.
The back of this
cropped bolero from
an early Stones tour
is emblazoned
with the bands
instantly recognisable
tongue-and-lips logo.
Leather platform
sandals, 620,
Saint Laurent by
Hedi Slimane, at
Net-a-Porter.com.
Diamond necklace,
3,850, Annina Vogel,
at Liberty

134

CRAIG McDEAN

135

136

Rip this joint

Opposite: in a look that
warrants enough admirers
to fill a stadium, Kate
partners embellished
hotpants with Micks Leo
star-sign emblazoned tee and
Mr Fish shirt. He wore both
on the bands 1969 tour of
America including the
fateful show at Altamont.
Studded suede hotpants,
to order, Zadig & Voltaire
This page: Ossie Clark
jumpsuit, as before

CRAIG McDEAN

138

CRAIG McDEAN

All the things one might try to disguise, Mick

launted. So much for it not being polite to stare
you couldnt take your eyes off him, and his
body language directed you where to look
139

Between the
buttons
Mick had several
military tunics but
bought this one the
only remaining example
in the Rolling Stones
archive from Robert
Orbach at John Stephen
on Carnaby Street for
about 4. The frontman
wore it for a performance
on Ready Steady Go! on
October 7 1966. The
next morning, says
Orbach, there was
a line of about a hundred
people wanting to buy
it We sold everything in
the shop by lunchtime.
Linen hotpants, from a
selection, Isabel Marant

140

CRAIG McDEAN

COLIN JONES/TOPFOTO.CO.UK; GETTY; LLOYD GOODMAN; MICHAEL BRITO; REX FEATURES

hen I was
a child I
was fiercely
obsessed with
animal rights
and saving the
environment. My crusade kept me focused,
my moral compass relentlessly pointing in
what I believed was the direction of Good.
By the age of 12 all my passion transferred
itself from wildlife to wild men, specifically
the Rolling Stones, which wasnt nearly
so straightforward.
As I metamorphosed into adolescence,
the Stones made me feel strong they
were both empowering and destabilising,
a disconcerting sensation for a 13-year-old.
At the time, the mid-Seventies, my family
structure was unravelling. My mother and
stepfather suddenly split up, and I fastened
my attention on to the Rolling Stones,
especially their style and the way they
presented themselves. I remember seeing a
picture of a jumpsuit Ossie Clark had made
for Mick Jagger: white, with circular rows of
white studs around the crotch area. What
the Stones did was to adopt the clothes of
the establishment and make them irreverent
and threatening. Suddenly these gentlemanly
suits became a raucously sexual kind of veneer
over their wildness. Mick Jagger in a poloneck
sweater and jacket looked the opposite of
respectable, yet you couldnt find fault with
what he was wearing it was what a university
professor would wear, although a lot tighter
and, somehow, the wrong things put
together: a velvet jacket with a poloneck.
In conventional circles, a man would have
combined such a jacket with a shirt and tie.
Instead, Mick mixed it like the jazz
musicians did, like Miles Davis.
The music of the Stones and the lyrics of
their songs were my Hail Marys. I took
strength and solace from
considering what they meant.
I spent a lot of time thinking
about the differences between
how Mick looked and how Keith
looked. As a teenage fan of a
certain band, you spent a lot of
time thinking about who you
liked best. Bill Wyman never
featured in this for me because
he was never cool; he looked
like someone who dressed up for
the part. Charlie Watts looked
great and was very attractive, but there
was something about him that was so selfcontained you could never catch his eye. So
went the musings of a 13-year-old.
Mick and Keith, though, werent like
anybody else. They were both shocking in
different ways. Mick was almost like Nureyev;

Right: Mick
performs
Satisfaction
wrapped in an
Anglo-American
flag cape for the
first show of the
bands 1981
American tour.
Below right:
Keith, carrying
son Marlon, in
1973, wearing
his Granny
Takes a Trip
velvet jacket

Left: Mick
in one of
his military
tunics,
March 1967
Mick puts on an
energetic show in
his Ossie Clark
jumpsuits in the
Netherlands in 1982,
right, and in New
Zealand in 1973,
below right. Below:
Jagger performs
with the band at
Madison Square
Garden, New York,
on their 1969
American tour

he presented himself in such an

unapologetic and confrontational way.
All the things one might try to disguise,
he flaunted. Instead of wearing baggy
things over his incredibly narrow, tiny
hips he wore the tightest clothes, so all
you could really look at was his cock. You
didnt have to look at his cock, but you
had to look at his cock. So much for it not
being polite to stare you couldnt take
your eyes off him, and his body language
directed you where to look. This was very
different from Keith, who ambushed your
heart, who seduced you because
he wasnt trying. Hours and hours
of speculation, the hundreds of
hours of time all young girls
spend thinking about pop stars.
I used to hang around the record
shop in my local East Sussex
town around the time that Sticky
Fingers came out. The album
cover had a photo of a pair of
jeans with a working zip on it.
I surreptitiously opened it and
was shocked to find a further
photo of a pair of Y-fronts not
what I had expected.
One day on the way home
from school I saw a picture of Anita
Pallenberg on the front of The Sun. I had
almost zero money and I sacrificed what
tiny amount I had to buy it.
I kept that pictu re of her: she
was the most dazzling-looking
person Id ever seen. She looked
almost as if she had a Mickand-Keith-thing going on at
the same time. She was
completely original in the way
she dressed, and had this way of
wearing things in the wrong
way that made them seem
very daring: there is a photo of
her in Cannes from around that
time in a gold Lurex jumper,
cut-off jean shorts and Roman
sandals, bare legs. She took
clothes out of their correct
context cocktail, daywear,
eveningwear and wore them
when it suited her. No one did that then.
The key thing about Anita was that she
had real chic, which Marianne Faithfull
never had. Marianne was so incredibly pretty,
but the way she dressed was more like a very
naughty but respectable girl. Anita had style,
it was as if she had Paris couture somehow
streaming through her veins. According to
Isobel Work, who has been responsible for
the Stones tour wardrobe and costumes for
20 years, Anita had a huge influence on both
Brian and Keith, and was probably often
> 144
responsible for Micks look, too.
141

142

CRAIG McDEAN

Ulluptam, quis
exerupt umenita
moluptate ne aut
velibus untibus
rem fugitatur? Ra
consectin resed eatur,
naturis et litibus vera
consequam fugitatet, te
rempero occus, tem

Ulluptam, quis
exerupt umenita
pore et inciunt
moluptate ne aut
velibus untibus
rem fugitatur? Ra
consectin resed eatur,
naturis et litibus vera
consequam fugitatet, te
aditi voluptature, is

Torn and frayed

Kate teams Micks Giorgio
SantAngelo jacket, worn on
the Stones 1976 tour, with
brown leather trousers
designed by Nudie Cohn for
Keith Richards, and likely
sourced by his then-partner
Anita Pallenberg. The couple
often shared their clothes
many of which Pallenberg
bought from vintage shops
or had made using ethnic
fabrics found on their travels
and these trousers have
been very well used, as their
distressed condition proves

143

144

I would wake up
and put on what
was lying around,
says Keith Richards.
Sometimes it was
mine, sometimes it
was the old ladys

Keith Richards and Mick Jagger at Villa Nellcte

on the Cte dAzur. The Stones spent the summer
of 1971 there, recording Exile on Main St

Keith pulled out his flick knife and chased

them down the street. It was impressive.
I showed Keith some of the drawings Id
done Id designed a long pirate-ish-looking
coat. And he said, Maybe one day we could
get that coat together. I jumped at the
chance. The Stones were recording later in
Paris and I booked a train with my halfmade toile to do a fitting with him at the
recording studio. When I got to Paris I rang
and rang but there was never any answer
from Keiths flat, and after three days
I packed my bags to set off for the station and
the night train back to Rome. As I was about
to leave my lodgings, I made one more halfhearted call, which was answered. It was
Keiths dad Bert, sounding full of good
cheer, who immediately invited me over to
see Keith. It transpired Id been politely

telephoning during the daytime Keith

didnt really wake up before 8pm. It was such
a moment. I was invited to dinner at Val
dIsre, the Paris restaurant where the Stones
congregated each evening around 11pm
before setting off for the studio. It was
December 1982 and they were recording
Undercover in the famous Path Marconi
studios. Over the next few days I pitched up
every night and got a lift in Keiths Ferrari
Dino to the recording studio, where I waited
till 4am to do my fittings. I brought the semifinished coat back to Rome. I was friends
with Vivienne Westwood and she helped me
finalise the design of it it was our one
mutually designed piece of work. The
coat was made and sent off to Keith in
tissue paper, and I never saw it again.
Since that moment the look of the
Stones and the look of Anita and
Keith, and smatterings of Mick, have
been a constant source of ideas. Ive
always loved that narrow jacket
silhouette: the undersized, shrunken
Dickensian waif with a glamorous
sheen to it that Keith wears so
brilliantly and that Anita did with
such incredible chic. I made a
collection that was shot entirely in
Anitas Chelsea flat, replicating some
of the iconic moments from the film
Performance, especially the scene with
two girls and James Fox in the bath.
Once I was wearing a velvet jacket
that had a bit of glitter in it; Patti
picked up on it immediately as
something that Keith might like and
that would look good on stage. The
factory had stopped making this velvet
and had even got rid of the looms, but
eventually I found another Italian
factory that made a great version of it.
The last time I saw Patti she again looked at
it as potential Keith material, so Im hoping
Ill eventually get it on his back.
Its December 19 2015, and our family is
heading to Sussex for Keith Richardss 72nd
birthday my husband, the writer James
Fox, co-authored Keiths autobiography,
Life. The party is held at Redlands, the
house near Chichester that Keith bought
in the Sixties, where the famous Marianne
Faithfull naked-in-a-carpet drugs bust took
place. Now it is the Richards family haven
when they are in Britain, and where we are
gathered to celebrate. At the party, my
husband encourages me to ask Keith
questions about his stage clothes for this
article. I feel conflicted about ambushing
Keith on his birthday, and when I eventually
drop it into the conversation, Keith says
simply, I just wore my shit. And how. Q
Exhibitionism is at the Saatchi Gallery,
SW3, until September 4

DOMINIQUE TARLE

In Keiths autobiography he says, Anita

could put anything together and look good.
I was beginning to wear her clothes most of
the time. I would wake up and put on what
was lying around. Sometimes it was mine
and sometimes it was the old ladys, but
we were the same size so it didnt matter.
If I sleep with someone, I at least have the
right to wear her clothes. But it really pissed
off Charlie Watts with his walk-in
cupboards. Keith pioneered a silhouette of
undersized skinny jackets and tight shirts
that were borrowed from Anita, adorned
with tattered silk scarves looking like an
undone school tie as well.
Where Keith created a whole style
that everybody copied, Mick was a
product of fashion, albeit a very good
one who set trends. The way he was
able to wear very feminine clothes
made him look even more macho. In
Hyde Park in 1969, at the concert for
Brian Jones, when he wore the white
suit by Mr Fish often referred to as
a dress, it was a moment that was
more about fashion than Micks own
style, which was so mercurial.
The first time I actually set eyes on
Mick Jagger (apart from seeing him
in concert) was when I was shipped
off to Mustique as a wayward 17-yearold, my fathers one attempt at trying
to steer me in the right direction, away
from the bad influences I had fallen
under. I arrived on this paradise island
a sheet-white, spotty teenager with
nil social graces and a cockney accent
I had spent ages cultivating. Mick was
there with his new girlfriend Jerry
Hall, who was another style maven of
the time. I remember watching them
walking along, each holding a hand of
six-year-old Jade, Jerry wearing an oystercoloured stretch velvet T-shirt with
matching leggings and bare feet, her long
dark-blonde hair cascading down. I had
never seen anyone look so at ease and so
glamorous. Mick wore tiny swimming
trunks with the huge bulge that was so
difficult not to stare at.
In the early Eighties, when I was 21, I
moved to Rome to study fashion but really
to live with my much older boyfriend, a
Roman prince who was also a friend of the
Stones. One day Keith came to town with
his new bride Patti Hansen. Patti looked like
a sexy angel so beautiful, with a devilish
innocence about her that made people stop
dead and stare at her in admiring disbelief.
Once when we went out for dinner she was
wearing a jumper and a pair of dark blue
tights, way before the leggings movement.
As we walked to the restaurant some
young guys made complimentary noises and

CRAIG McDEAN

All the
way down
Keith wore this velvet
jacket by Granny Takes
a Trip a lot during
the early Seventies
although it now hangs in
his daughter Theodoras
wardrobe. There is a
very good repair under
the arm, showing the
jacket to have been
loved, says Isobel
Work, the bands
costume archivist.
Kate layers the jacket
over an unbuttoned
showmans shirt.
Necklace, as before

145

146

Moonage

daydream

Futuristic synthetics collide with artisanal threads to create summers

optimistic texture pairings. Its a brave new world, full of beautiful creatures
Photographs by Colin Dodgson. Styling by Francesca Burns

Let a
sundrenched
palette
infuse your
wardrobe with
watercolour
hues
Lilac jersey
dress, from
1,395,
Vetements,
at Browns.
Hair: Rudi Lewis.
Make-up: Niamh
Quinn. Production:
Connect the Dots.
Model: Rianne
Van Rompaey

147

The
sophisticate
takes superfine Herms
leather and
offsets it
with Simone
Rochas
flyaway tulle
Leather
racerback dress,
9,600, Herms.
Sheer tulle apron
dress, 975,
Simone Rocha.
Leather sandals,
690, Louis
Vuitton. Chain
earring, 325,
Loewe. Socks,
stylists own.
Beauty note:
weightless,
windswept hair
lends itself to
artisanal style.
Mist with Redken
Wind Blown
Texturising
Spray, 12, for
light movement

148

COLIN DODGSON

Claire
Barrows
handpainted
dystopian
scenes on
silk prove
irresistible
alongside
Valentinos
Africaninspired
pliss
leather
dress
Leather
dress, 3,920,
Valentino. Silk
top, 490,
Claire Barrow.
Sandals and
socks, as before

149

Crafty artisan returns, and Paco Rabannes sensual, tie-dye silks invite artistic poses
This page: embroidered silk top, 650. Leather skirt, 2,040. Both Paco Rabanne. Chain bracelet, 595, Loewe

Smoke and smashed mirrors: Loewes shattered-glass tunic transforms shaded

desert terrain into something rich and strange
Opposite: mirrored linen top, 1,525, Loewe. Leather skirt, 4,270, Chanel. Sandals and socks, as before

150

COLIN DODGSON

151

Resist the
urge to play
it safe. Louis
Vuittons
tough-girl
sandals are
a vital
counterpoint
to springs
romantic
rainbow
chiffons
Striped silkorganza dress,
6,200, Dior.
Cotton catsuit,
599. Handpainted socks,
34. Both
Claire Barrow.
Sandals and
bracelet,
as before

152

COLIN DODGSON

Ribbon in
the sky:
when left
to their
own
devices
Proenza
Schoulers
velvet
fastenings
semaphore
carefree
youth
Jacquard coat
with ties,
2,690,
Proenza
Schouler.
Coated-cotton
wrap skirt,
647, Edun, at
Net-a-Porter.
com. Sandals,
socks and
bracelet, as
before

153

Trophy hunter: set against the California sand, Loewes shard-embellished

trousers become the perfect culmination of the beachcombers haul
This page: satin shirt, 675. Mirrored linen trousers, 2,475. Shard earring, 250. All Loewe. Sandals and socks, as before

Wanda Nylons sheer cover-up adds an extra level of subversion

to Pradas prim sequined cocktail bib
Opposite: organza trench coat, 650, Wanda Nylon, at Selfridges. Organdie dress embellished with paillettes,
3,935. Silk net veil, 305. Paillette earrings, in hand and on floor, 325. All Prada. Tulle knickers, 75, Eres

154

COLIN DODGSON

155

156

COLIN DODGSON

Translucent skin and balmy lips combine for a dreamlike elegance. Dior Addict
Lip Glow, 24, enhances natural colour for irresistible radiance
Opposite: silk smock top, 1,030, Fendi. Chain earring, as before

Calvin Kleins deconstructed silks lend springs languid silhouette a worldly grace
This page: silk dress, 2,230, Calvin Klein Collection. Sandals, socks and bracelet, as before

157

Catch of the
day: Loewes
gilded fish
necklace
brings a
neutral palette
into dazzling
focus
Jersey dress,
from 850, Cline.
Gold-plated fish
necklace, in tackle
box, 1,195, Loewe.
With thanks to
Air New Zealand.
For stockists,
all pages, see
Vogue Information

158

COLIN DODGSON

159

Cutaway sweaters have

their charms. Even
better? Leather slides,
now a timeless staple
injecting sturdy purpose
into your stride
This page: black cotton/wool
sleeveless tunic sweater, 520,
Valentino. White gabardine dress,
1,125, Lanvin. Black leather slides,
230, Robert Clergerie. Gold hoop
earring, 45, Ivy & Liv, at Kabiri

Unfetter a straight-up
pair of Michael Kors
trousers via a turneddown waist, low-slung
belt and retro zipthrough bomber
Opposite: cotton blouson jacket,
1,875. Cotton tank top, 385.
Both Bottega Veneta. Wool trousers,
780. Leather belt, 220.
Leather slides, 415. All Michael
Kors. Silver bangles, from
164 each, Tom Wood.
Hair: Shon. Make-up: Lynsey
Alexander. Nails: Elisa Ferri.
Production: Tali Magal for Freebird
Productions. Set design: Nick des
Jardins. Digital artwork: Alexandra
Rubinstein. Model: Anna Ewers

160

CLASSIC

SEQUENCE
How to reinvigorate
classics now? Its all in
the balance. Offset
austere tailoring with
seductive sportswear and
graceful silks and
segue into summer with
minimal fuss
Photographs by Lachlan Bailey.
Styling by Verity Parker

161

Flex the new

wardrobe binder
a vest top
lends fawn Max
Mara slacks an
athletic edge
This page: cotton-mix
coat, 915. Cotton
trousers, 340. Both
Max Mara. Modal vest,
39.50, Hanro.
Gold necklace, from a
selection, Annina Vogel

Extend the louche

languor of a
Paul Smith suit
by pushing up
the sleeves
Opposite: white
wool/silk jacket, 985.
Matching trousers with
braces, 650. White
crpe top, 710. All
Paul Smith. Gold and
silver signet ring, from
344, Tom Wood

162

LACHLAN BAILEY

163

Bored of your
Breton? Hit
refresh with
Chlos lightly
frayed jeans.
Note the bleached
white denim on
optic-white
slides this look
is squeaky clean
Opposite: black and
ivory cotton/wool
sweater, 670, Saint
Laurent by Hedi
Slimane. White frayed
denim trousers, 515,
Chlo. Leather slides,
as before. Silver band,
from 65, Tom Wood.
Wide gold-plated band,
from 140, Gabriela
Artigas. Rose-gold pinky
rings, from 980 each,
Dina Kamal, at Dover
Street Market

A smattering
of freckles
adds youthful
nonchalance to a
classic wardrobe.
Dot Este Lauder
Brow Now Brow
Defining Pencil
in Light Brunette,
17, lightly
across the bridge
of the nose
This page: cotton tank
top, 385, Bottega
Veneta. Silver bracelet,
1,690, Herms. Silver
bangles, from 164
each, Tom Wood

LACHLAN BAILEY

165

Gorgeous fabrics
are grounded
with practical
poppers at
Herms. Lift
palomino beige
with a tough-girl
silver cuff
Opposite: double-faced
silk blouson jacket,
3,350. Matching skirt,
2,270. Both Herms.
Ribbed-knit T-shirt,
178, Frame, at
Matchesfashion.com.
Jewellery, as before

Raw edges are

a key detail
for spring, but
they dont have
to feel rustic.
Hugo Bosss
oatmeal coat has
a worldly-wise
polish
This page: linen coat,
780, Boss. Signet
ring, as before.
Beauty note: soft, silky
hair swept over is the
epitome of timeless
elegance. Spray with
Krastase Elixir Ultime
Volume Beautifying
Oil Mist, 36.50, for
lightweight shine

LACHLAN BAILEY

167

Replace tired
denim shorts
with Emporio
Armanis supple
leather pair and
add a freshly
laundered shirt.
Golden tan
obligatory
This page: mens cotton
shirt, 260, Giorgio
Armani. Leather shorts,
700. Emporio Armani.
Cotton-mix bra, 35,
Hanro. Vintage silverplated chain bracelet,
95, Susan Caplan.
Other bracelet, bangles
and ring, as before

Lie back
and think of
summer: Ralph
Laurens black
tank is quietly
spectacular
against pressed
white trousers
Opposite: black silk vest,
565. White viscose
trousers, 1,230.
Both Ralph Lauren
Collection. Black
leather belt, 580.
Silver and jasper
ring, 1,380. Both
Herms. With thanks
to Parlay Studios.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information

168

LACHLAN BAILEY

169

Top tier: Michael Korss

ethereal lace skirt is
a fresh companion to a
scarlet sweatshirt and
sturdy cowboy boots
This page: cotton sweatshirt, 75,
Champion, at Theidleman.com.
Black lace bandeau top, 100,
Chlo. Pleated lace skirt, 2,710,
Michael Kors Collection. Vintage
cowboy boots, stylists own

Up your game: Phoebe

Philo re-fashions the
preppy white tennis
dress. Her eye-catching
update? A flash of
midnight-black lace
Opposite: pleated camisole
top with black lace, 1,500. Silk
camisole, worn underneath,
500. Both Cline.
Hair: Malcolm Edwards.
Make-up: Mark Carrasquillo.
Nails: Adam Slee. Production:
Ragi Dholakia Productions.
Set design: Emma Roach.
Models: Agnes Nieske Abma,
Estella Boersma, Alice Metza
and Yasmin Wijnaldum

170

earth angel
Master the new high-low mix; seductive underwear speeds trusty
sportswear into the next season to create wardrobe champions
Photographs by Harley Weir. Styling by Jane How
171

172

HARLEY WEIR

Relax into summers

new dress code:
Chlos biscuit
tracksuit trousers
add a sporting edge
to a delicate shoulderbaring blouse
Opposite: pleated georgette top
with lace trim, 2,445. Jersey
trousers, 870. Both Chlo.
Vintage boots, as before

Ring the changes:

darkly decadent
dresses should now
be worn in daylight
hours. Case in point?
Givenchys smoky
lace gown
This page: chiffon and lace
top, from 3,890. Silk and
lace slip dress, from 1,130.
Both Givenchy by
Riccardo Tisci, at Harrods.
Vintage boots, as before

173

Ramp up sheer layers with

hard-edged details. Valentinos
bridal baby-doll puts beading
back in the picture
This page: ivory lace minidress with beaded
empire line, 5,200, Valentino

Jump into the fray: Veronique

Branquinhos streaming collar is
the modern way to come undone
Opposite: silk top with crochet trim, 1,560,
Veronique Branquinho, at Joseph. Denim
shorts, from a selection, Aries. Beauty note:
porcelain skin is a prerequisite to ethereal
elegance. Try Lancme Miracle Air De Teint,
30, for a barely there, flawless finish

HARLEY WEIR

175

The bodycon trend

has been rebooted
thanks to Jonathan
Anderson. Sculpted
knit leggings and
a peekaboo bralet
act as a bold new
statement of intent
This page: bra top, 450.
Knit trousers, 1,495.
Both JW Anderson

Meet Saint Laurents

new-season knockout:
the boxing-waistband
shorts. A fierce
match to a sheer
polka-dot bra
Opposite: denim jacket, 780.
Tulle bra top, 200. Leather
boxing shorts, 1,485. All
Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane

176

HARLEY WEIR

177

Paco Rabanne heralds the return of the

corseted playsuit with a new, athletic
twist. Do you dare to sport it alone?
This page: terry towelling playsuit, to order. Suede
boots, 550. Both Paco Rabanne

Define and conquer: invest in luxurious

staples that borrow the contouring lines
of classic underwear. Balenciagas
structured body is a new-season essential
Opposite: linen/cotton body, 1,545. Cotton/silk
bumbag, 695. Both Balenciaga

178

HARLEY WEIR

180

HARLEY WEIR

Hit reverse: Sacais

dappled lacework
maximises the
walk-away effect.
Plan your exit
strategy now
Opposite: navy, black and
yellow pleated chiffon and
lace dress, 1,790, Sacai, at
Joseph and Feathers

Undone waves
exude playful
femininity. Finish
with LOral
Professionnel Tecni
Art Wild Stylers
60s Babe Powder
Spray, 16.99, for
gentle texture
This page: blue smocked
camisole, 495. Matching
smocked miniskirt, 550.
Black lace shorts, 565.
All JW Anderson.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information

181

20,000

dried flowers installed

by Rebecca Law for the
autumn/winter 2016
presentation, I, Myself,
Am Strange and Unusual

634,000

Instagram followers,
and 6,180 likes for the
Flamingo Emoji Petition,
sent to Unicode to lobby
for the creation of my
spirit animal emoji

30

pairs of trainers
in my personal
collection. Dont
even ask how many
other shoes I own

packets of Hobnobs at
the studio during show
time. At least one packet
is consumed per day

mobile phones
smashed in
the past year

hours of sleep the night

before a show. The rest
of the time it depends on
how well my one-yearold daughter is behaving

200

stockists worldwide,
selling to 148 countries

182

f irst in

line
The celebrated BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion
Fund Award 2016 has been announced.
Ellie Pithers meets the winner and finalists
Photographs by Tung Walsh

SOPHIA WEARS JUMPER, MIH JEANS. SKIRT, VIVETTA.

BOTH AT AVENUE32.COM. SHOES, SOPHIA WEBSTER

WINNER Sophia
Webster
Flamingos, butterflies and unicorns are
repeating motifs on Sophia Websters
shoes, so its no surprise to hear she first
caused a stir as an MA student at the
Royal College of Art when she wanted
to use pink in her designs a clash with
the colleges traditional cordwainer
approach. Pink has since become the
30-year-olds calling card. After three
years as Nicholas Kirkwoods right-hand
woman, she struck out on her own in
2010 and quickly gained a following for
her kitsch designs at affordable prices.
Kate Hudson the woman Webster
would most like to play her in a film
of her life recently wore her Amanda
Gem shoes on the red carpet, the
cherry on top of a year that saw sales
increase by 45 per cent. Such figures
impressed the judges from the off;
Websters singular vision and relentlessly
cheerful designs clinched it. This season
she will launch a bag range and open
a shop on Mount Street. Next on the
agenda? Get a new office. Or maybe
just a door to block out the madness.
Hair: Dora Roberti. Make-up: Anita
Keeling. Sittings editor: Nura Khan

183

29
fabric swatches on my
moodboard for autumn/
winter 2016, alongside
pictures of painted lips,
vintage beading and
sweatshirts

1
glass of
orange juice
every morning

20
people on the team

Emilia
Wickstead
The New Zealand-born, London-based
Wickstead may have old-fashioned
sensibilities Ive always been inspired
by old-world couture, she says, of her
Fifties fit-and-flare silhouettes but her
clothes have a modern, elegant appeal.
Having conquered the well-connected,
made-to-measure market (she regularly
dresses the Duchess of Cambridge in
pretty pastels, as well as a clutch of
Ascot race-goers) and the red carpet
(Gigi Hadid, Diane Kruger and Saoirse
Ronan wear her cinematic gowns), the
32-year-old designer is looking to
capitalise on 45 per cent growth in
sales in 2015. The mentor she credits
with instilling in her such commercial
savvy? My mother. She started her
own business from scratch and has
taught me most of what I know.

2
boxes of After
Eights on the
go in the studio
in the run-up
to a show

3
the number
of kisses on
my habitual
email sign-off

184

0
the amount
of money I spent
from my first
pay cheque.
I saved it all

EMILIA WEARS SKIRT, EMILIA WICKSTEAD.

OPPOSITE: AMY WEARS SHIRT AND TROUSERS, BOTH MOTHER OF PEARL

hours sleep a night

going down to two the
night before a show

15
people on the team

12
samples to develop
hand-smocking, a focal
point of the autumn/
winter 2016 collection

1
can of full-fat Coke
per day, for an
afternoon pick-me-up

300
metres of fabric to
make a collection,
from prototyping to
finished samples

40
Lyra dresses sold out in
one day from the autumn/
winter 2015 collection

Mother
of Pearl
Anyone passing through Londons
Fashion Week throng would have
spotted showgoers wearing recurring
pieces: printed sneakers, sometimes
embroidered with sequins; sporty
parkas; punchy floral skirts in singular
colour combinations. All were the
work of Amy Powney, 31, creative
director at Mother of Pearl since
2011. Fearless pattern reworked with
athletic sensibility is the brands USP,
not forgetting comfortable fabrics,
easy-to-wear shapes and an affordable
price point. All of which makes it
ultra-Instagram-friendly, and
accounts for a growing fan base
(theyve picked up 38 new stockists
in the past 12 months). The fiveyear plan seeks to build on that
commercial success. Were
looking at new territories for
retail, expanding our
e-commerce, and the
potential for
opening a
store, says
Powney.

TUNG WALSH

20
calls to the studio after
Eva Chen wore our green
and pink parka during
Paris Fashion Week
in October 2015

30
the number of
Vietnamese summer rolls
on order for the team the
night before a show

185

60

pairs of vintage
frames. I collect them
for inspiration; theyre
all neatly arranged
in my office

102,219

emails currently in my
inbox. I like to get back
to people quickly; Im
always on my phone

Alaa dresses in
my wardrobe, bought
as well done
presents to myself

pizzas when my team

goes to the Salusbury
Foodstore in Queens
Park to celebrate a
special occasion. We
are serious eaters;
were not shy!

8,200

bikinis sold in the

past year

4,300

pairs of sunglasses
sold in the past year

50

metres of fabric to
make a collection

From spectacles to sunglasses to swimwear

(and not forgetting the sandals), Anna Laubs
brand Prism has expanded since its
inception in 2009 to cater for the former
fashion editors every holiday whim. Laub, 38,
launched the brand with five styles of spectacles;
swimwear was next in her sights. Bikini tops
and bottoms are available to purchase
separately, catering to a range of body types,
in styles that vary from metallic Sixties-tinged
one-pieces to retro pastel separates. All
fabrics are sourced in Italy, cutting out the
age-old problem of saggy Lycra. Ive always
wanted functional things with a fashion
element and one thing led to another, she
says, speaking from her studio in Queens
Park, where she also lives. With a shop in
Chiltern Street and a phalanx of worldwide
stockists, Prism now counts Rihanna and Kate
Moss among its fans. People think were a
multinational corporation but theres just six of
us in the office, says Laub. My five-year plan
includes some key senior hires, including a
CEO which, at the moment, is me.

186

ANNA WEARS JUMPER, PREEN, AT BROWNS. GLASSES, PRISM. WITH THANKS TO

CCS CAKE SHOP, NW6. OPPOSITE: OSMAN WEARS JACKET, SHIRT AND BOW-TIE, ALL OSMAN

PRISM

4,000

books in my personal library.

Im a bit of a hoarder

18

images of Little
Lord Fauntleroy on the
autumn/winter 2016
moodboard

44

celebrities wearing
Osman on the red carpet
in 2015. The biggest
moment is still Beyonc
winning a Grammy in our
jumpsuit in 2013. The
newspaper clippings
combined from that year
are at least a foot high

16

the number of Bassetts

Murray Mints I can
consume in one sitting,
if I put my mind to it

people who worked

for one week on
embroideries that
appeared on one
piece on the
autumn/winter
2016 catwalk

31

sketch books in my
studio detailing each
collection, all with full
looks on A4 sheets

pairs of shoes currently

under my desk. I am
mad about shoes:
vintage Ferragamos,
trainers, Eighties
winklepickers, Seventies
rocker shoes, and Dr
Martens at the moment

10

people on my team

OSMAN
Were a fabric-centric house, says Osman Yousefzada,
38, as he calculates how many swatches hell look at in his
Waterloo studio during the conception of one collection. The
answer? More than 1,000, which are then whittled down to
10 or 12 bespoke fabrics per season. These, combined with
his eye-catching but unfussy and universally flattering dresses
(Poppy Delevingne wears them well) and figure-enhancing
trousers and jumpsuits (Lupita Nyongo swears by them) make
him a favourite for starlets and civilians alike. If its easygoing,
sophisticated glamour you seek, Osman is your man.

TUNG WALSH

rings on my fingers to
bring me luck, given
to me by my parents

100

the number of sketches

I can do a day, if no one
disturbs me

187

The

ONE
that got
AWAY
When painter Cecily
Brown left Londons YBA
scene for New York,
she thought shed never
sell a canvas. Now,
two decades later, an
art-world star, she makes
a spectacular return to
Britain. By Caroline Roux
Photographs by Roe Ethridge

188

CECILY WEARS T-SHIRT, VINCE. DUNGAREES, CHLOE. CLOGS AND JEWELLERY, HER OWN.

ecily Brown speaks with

such perfectly rounded
British vowels, its easy
to forget that shes
lived in New York
for the past 20 years.
But occasionally her
Americanisation comes to the fore. The
first concert I ever went to was Soft Cell,
she tells me over lunch at Narcissa, Andr
Balazss East Village outpost, as we discuss
the high points of being a teen in early
Eighties London. And I loved punk, of
course, and rock and roll. Then she catches
herself. Rock and roll? Oh god, wed never
say rock and roll in the UK, would we?
Still, rather more has happened than a
simple change of vocabulary since Cecily
came to live in the city, aged 26. Then, she
was lured by its edginess and its economics
and the fact that, as a traditional painter, she
didnt fit in with the conceptual art practice
of Londons noisy YBAs. I didnt feel I
belonged in my generation, she says. And
in New York you could live on less money
and have a little studio and just get on with >

Cecily Brown at her studio

in New York earlier this year.
Hair: Tamara McNaughton.
Make-up: Maki Ryoke.
Sittings editor:
Zara Zachrisson

it. But her paintings, however traditional, Gallery, discreetly tucked away in St Jamess. but I dont want the viewer to go through
proved tantalising pulsating, sometimes Its one of Londons more elegant set-ups, what I went through. You can see its been
claustrophic, sexual scenarios delivered in and has a reputation for propelling artists round the block too many times.
thickly applied flesh tones. They have made into museum collections. Shes certainly
We move on to a large landscape canvas,
her into an art-world star.
done something contrarian, says Kenny which is lighter by far, though the restless
In 1998, aged 29, just three years after Schachter, the maverick London art dealer movement and moments of compression
her arrival, she was recruited by the citys who first showed Cecilys bunny paintings that characterise her work remain. Im
titan gallerist Larry Gagosian. (How could allegorical canvases covered with laying down thinner washes and some of
I resist? she says. He only had 20 artists scampering rabbits in New York in 1997. the ground is exposed, she says, as we
back then and they included Cy Twombly
Back then, Cecilys studio was in Tribeca stand in front of the new painting, swirling
and Richard Serra.) And a couple of (Its a J Crew now, she says) and she with delicate strokes in shades of green.
years later, a sultry portrait in Vanity Fair painted all day and worked in a bar down She thinks it might be finished, though she
Cecily reclining in front of her own work the street by night. Now, she still paints as isnt entirely sure. Its a different way to put
in a dollar-sign T-shirt turned her into compulsively as being a mother of a seven- the paint on. Its got less physical heft, but
the poster girl of a new generation of year-old will allow. I dont know anyone the light of the canvas itself shines through,
mediagenic artists. By 2007, her paintings whos a harder worker, says her friend, she says. This will take pride of place at
were tipping well over the millionThomas Dane. The show will be a
dollar mark at auction. And yet here
homecoming for Cecily, who hasnt
she is, finishing off her bourbon-based
exhibited in London since 2011.
hot toddy and reaching for a beetroot
crisp, saying, Im still surprised when
rown grew up in Surrey
someone says they like my work.
and then the London
Today, she barely looks any different
suburb
of
Upper
from that 2000 portrait: the same dark
Norwood
with
her
hair casually clipped up, a warm brownmother, the novelist
eyed gaze. Shes wearing a Paul & Joe
Shena Mackay, her two sisters and
sweatshirt and lived-in 7 For All
Robin Brown who, she discovered
Mankind jeans, a Stella McCartney
when she was 21, was not her father.
bag embroidered with brilliant red
Instead it was the legendary art
poppies slung over the back of her
critic David Sylvester, a man shed
chair. I liked the flowers, she says,
visited many galleries with over the
but it does have the advantage of not
years, sometimes with Francis Bacon
being leather. Cecily was brought up
in tow. It made sense of
a vegetarian and has never eaten meat
my inclination to be an artist,
or fish. Its a family thing my granny Cecily Brown with her husband, the architecture critic Nicolai she said later. It was exhilarating for
Ouroussoff, at the National Arts Club, New York, in 2010
started it, for ethical reasons, she says.
her on one hand, says Coffield, but
The thing about Cecily is that she really Frieze co-founder Amanda Sharp though quite upsetting on the other. David seemed
hasnt changed, despite the success, the these days its in a well-appointed fourth- overjoyed and shocked, too.
trappings of fame, says Darren Coffield, floor loft studio, just off Union Square. In
At school, Cecily lost interest early. I
the artist and curator whos known her since the central section of the light-drenched sort of dropped out for the last two years,
they studied together at Londons Slade space there is work everywhere finely she tells me. Life became more interesting.
School of Fine Art. It was the early Nineties crafted ink drawings, dazzling pastels and Friends and parties and boys and music. She
and both were obsessed by painting at a time explosive paintings hanging on the walls, left at 16, and went to Epsom Art School,
when it couldnt have been less fashionable. leaning against the pillars, lying on the already sure she wanted to be a painter.
Shes simply interested in being a painter, floor. A set of floor-to-ceiling shelves is After failing to get into Brighton Polytechnic
and not what it brings, he says.
neatly filled with tubes of oil paint and on one year and Camberwell the next, she
Then last year, Cecily surprised everyone the table is a finished jigsaw puzzle of met the gloriously gruff painter Maggi
again when she announced she was leaving a New Yorker cover. I used to hate it if Hambling, who offered Cecily her garage
Gagosian. Maybe she wasnt feeling the someone interfered with my jigsaw, she in Clapham as a studio in return for
wind behind her sails, says her friend the says of her enduring pastime, but now cleaning and cat-sitting duties.
artist George Condo. She was with Larry I realise they can do the bits you dont like.
By the time I applied to the Slade,
for a long time. Cecily herself describes it
Because she always works on a number I could hardly carry my portfolio, it was all
as creating a change of context. She went of paintings at any one time, much of this these huge paintings on board, she says.
off and had a show of small garden paintings is work in progress. Im quite strict about You could see how influenced she was by
at the West Village gallery of Michele letting things dry, she says of her process, Maggi, says Coffield of their early days at
Maccarone. People came with fresh eyes, which involves applying layer upon (dry) the art school, where Peter Doig was doing
she says. The New York Timess fearsome art layer of paint. But also getting started is a postgraduate course and used to pop by
critic Roberta Smith named it one of the my favourite part. I dont stare at a blank the studio. Shed have a paintbrush in one
best shows of 2015 The woman who canvas. The harder part is knowing when hand, and a fag in the other. And her work
once gave me my worst review of all time!
to stop. This one is seven years old, she was very gestural and Rubenesque.
This June, she will be showing work that says, pulling out a strong, formal abstract in
In 1992 Cecily went to New York on a
spans the different stages of her career tones of red and blue. And I hate it. It got student exchange. I loved the energy, I
from large oil paintings to more intimate really laboured and the paint got chalky. loved the street life, and that you could walk
drawings and pastels at the Thomas Dane Im OK with having really worked areas, everywhere. The human scale. The grid.
190

CECILY WEARS T-SHIRT, T BY ALEXANDER WANG. TROUSERS, OPENING CEREMONY.

SNEAKERS, CALVIN KLEIN. JEWELLERY, HER OWN. PATRICK McMULLAN

The light, the buildings, she says, her eyes

smiling with the memory. It felt very
different from London. A year later,
Charles Saatchi bought a piece of work
from her graduation show, and she took a
studio next to Damien Hirsts in Brixtons
Coldharbour Lane. Hed done his studio
up I guess he was already doing OK.
I shared mine with five other people and we
had no heating or hot water.
But none of it was enough
to keep her in London.
By the time Cecily joined
Gagosian in 1998, she was
thoroughly embedded in
the New York art world.
Through Jeffrey Deitch, the
decades major mover and
shaker who put on a series
of shows of emerging artists,
she met the people at the
centre of the scene: John
Currin, Rachel Feinstein,
Elizabeth Peyton, George
Condo.
The
gallerist
Gavin
Brown
opened
a bar, Passerby, on West
15th Street, where everyone
gathered. The Brits would
roll into town: the gallerist
Sadie Coles would always
stay with the star curator
Clarissa Dalrymple. There
was a real sense of fun, says
Cecily. Larry [Gagosian]
would take us somewhere
like Da Silvano, and leave
us there talking till 2am and
pick up the bill later.
It was hedonistic, but in
a happy not a druggy
way, says Amanda Sharp,
who met Cecily in 1999.
(Cecily gave Amanda a
painting Girls Spanking
Girls!, says Amanda for
her 31st birthday shortly
after.) There were a lot of
late-night conversations. In
fact, the germ of Frieze
Masters developed at John
and Rachels one night.
Cecily, Peter Doig and Chris Ofili were
there, too, and all these painters were
discussing a particular glaze on a painting
in the Louvre. The intensity and integrity
of that conversation, and their knowledge
of art history, really stayed with me.
Meanwhile, the collectors were queuing
up: Michael Ovitz, Elton John, Mario
Testino. Cecilys work comes from such a
tradition of painting that it fits into any
collection, says Kenny Schachter. Douglas
Cramer the Hollywood television

producer behind everything from Star

Trek to The Colbys, and a major acquirer
of contemporary work owns quite a few.
Hes a great friend, says Cecily, very
Hollywood, in a good way. Him and
Hugh [Bush, an artist] just had their house
redone in Miami, and all my work is
hanging in the dining room. I just cant
find time to get down there to see.

Cecily acquired her current studio in

2008 and hired the architect Jonathan
Caplan to make it right. The result of the
renovation is a subtly well-ordered interior,
with colours from Cecilys own painting
palette appearing throughout a coral door
lintel, a skin-coloured cupboard door, a
sagey green floor. Jonathan calls this penis
colour, she says, pointing to the beige
floor of a bathroom with jade
green walls. But then De
Kooning called it boiled liver,
which is sort of worse. Its
funny how the colour should
be horrible but it becomes
gorgeous when you put it next
to something bright.
As luck would have it,
Cecily met her husbandto-be Nicolai Ouroussoff,
then the architecture critic of
the New York Times, midway
through the work. It was at
an American Patrons of the
Tate dinner. All I could think
about was what hed think
about what I was doing to my
studio, this wonderful man
who knew all about design!
They married soon after,
and Celeste, their daughter,
appeared quickly after that.
Now, Nicolai is writing a
book on architecture in the
20th century. He works at
home, and he gets to see
Celeste earlier in the day
than I do, says Cecily. But
I have the studio and its very
jammy having all this space.
If the art world is watching
Cecilys every move to see
where life after Gagosian
will take her, she seems
outwardly unconcerned. She
has exhibitions lined up in
New York and Brazil for
2017. But its really nice to
not have a diary completely
full of commitments, she
says, making me a coffee in the
studio kitchen and asking if
I have a cigarette. (I dont, even though, like
her, Im a failed giver-upper.) She tells me
that Alex Katz, the figurative artist and
elder statesman of the art world, once gave
her a good piece of advice. He said: There
are five audiences: the artists, the critics,
the museums, the public and the collectors.
If you have one or two on side, you should
feel happy. Right now, Cecily Brown
would appear to have the whole set.
Q
Cecily Brown is at the Thomas Dane Gallery,
SW1, from June 11 to July 23

He likes the animal energy in my

work its rambunctious, in your
face, with lots happening at once

ROE ETHRIDGE

Cecily says that Cramer likes the animal

energy in my work. The same reason he
likes musical theatre, which I do, too. That
rambunctious, in your face, lots happening
at once. Ive always thought paintings are
the perfect arena where everything can be
going on at once. A cluster happening here,
something else going on there. It might be
chaos at first glance, but then you realise
theres a real rhythm and logic. (She later
emails me: When I say musicals, I dont
mean Cats! Ive never seen Mamma Mia.)

191

Johnny Coca, Mulberrys

new creative director, once
thought he would be an
aeronautical engineer.
I had dreams of becoming a
designer, but I didnt know
anyone in the industry, so
I focused on mathematics
and physics. Grooming:
Paul Donovan. Sittings
editor: Michael Trow

192

ohnny
comelately
When youre reinvigorating a household name,
the stakes are high. Sarah Harris meets the
man helping Mulberry bloom again
Photographs by Henry Bourne

ear Johnny Coca, I

apologise in advance for
beginning with one
of your predecessors,
but needs must. In
2002, Nicholas Knightly
designed Mulberrys ubiquitous Bayswater
bag, a hit-maker that catapulted the British
luxury label into the hearts and homes of
women the world over. We might not have
thought there was much wrong with the
bestseller after all, we all had one, our best
friends had one, our mothers had one but
with hindsight, we were very much mistaken.
Spanish-born Johnny Coca, the man
charged with the substantial task of
transforming Mulberry from an English
heritage brand in sleep mode into a global
fashion powerhouse, is standing in his
vast office (he recently pulled down a wall
to double the space) inside the companys
impressive Kensington headquarters. He
has the Bayswater over his forearm while
he rummages about inside to illustrate a
very valid point. You see, the internal zip
pocket on the original is on the inside
back of the bag, but on Cocas finessed,
mark II version, now hanging off his
other arm, its fixed to the inside front.
Why? Because its much easier to access,
rather than fumbling around, lifting and
having to hold up the main flap that was
complicated, irritating even, says the
affable Coca. Hes right.
There is little that this 40-year-old
designer likes more than the simple idea of
functionality; its his modus operandi. If
there is a metaphor for what Coca can do,

its this: these two Bayswater bags have the

same dimensions, but looking at them side
by side, its like the original is the sloppy
sketch, and Cocas more modern, cleaner
version is the finished masterpiece. Its as
though an artist has gone over the lines,
redefined it, coloured it in, taken out the
rough edges with an eraser and made it
altogether better.
The leather on the new one looks infinitely
more expensive (it isnt, but it is of a higher
quality). The handles flop down on the
original Bayswater to reveal a rather ugly root
on the revised version the handles stay
upright, but even so, the root has been
finished off neatly, regardless of the fact that
it isnt on display. The clasp plate is smaller,
because whats the point of a larger one? It
was unnecessary, likewise the fastening belt
straps that no one ever used theyve gone,
which makes the side-view of the bag
a whole lot smarter. In fact, its so improved
that, in bag speak, Cocas Bayswater makes
the old one look like a fake picked up on
New Yorks Canal Street. The best bit? Its
895 exactly the same price as the old one.
Coca is good. And yet, when his name
was announced last summer as Mulberrys
new creative director, it drew a blank
among fashion folk, who looked shiftily at
one another for confirmation that it didnt
resonate with anybody else either.
No matter, we concluded. Theres a trend
right now for hiring the unknown.
Remember, no one had ever heard of
Guccis Alessandro Michele, or Hermss
Nadge Vanhee-Cybulski. The talents
getting creative-director jobs are behind-

the-scenes names (and yes, you can bet that

Mulberry is hoping for some of that magic
dust being sprinkled over Gucci right now).
We might not have known his name, but
we knew his product. Coca was plucked
from Cline, where he worked directly with
Phoebe Philo as head design director for
leather goods, shoes, jewellery and sunglasses,
which basically means your favourite Cline
bag/sunglasses/pair of shoes/bangle likely
started out inside his head.
OK. Attention got. He may be short he
knows but its hard not to notice Coca,
with his jet-black hair worked up into a
perfect Elvis quiff, underscored by chunky
silver hoop earrings. Hes dressed in his
signature look: Comme des Garons kilt/
trouser situation, a white shirt, chunky
Valentino lace-ups and Clines classic
leather biker jacket (from the womenswear
collection ditto a Cline black leather
shopper). To clarify, thats only because his
own for Mulberry are yet to arrive.
We go for lunch at a Chinese restaurant
overlooking Hyde Park, a five-minute walk
from Mulberry HQ. Its atop the hotel
where hes currently living it was either that
or add a bed to the corner of his office;
hes been clocking up the hours lately, so
proximity is important. He explains that one
of the very first things he did when he arrived
was to visit the Mulberry factories in
Somerset to show the craftsmen a better way
to work with the leather. Theres a certain
way to handle it: bags are made inside-out,
and so when you turn the bag back, you
should roll it like a pair of tights. Look. He
moves the Peking duck and won ton soup >
193

Mulberry and it wasnt right for me.

I would rather start again and make
something else entirely.
Now, there are small and beautiful bags
at 425 and friend-for-life/work bags at
500 to 800, a bracket redefined as
Mulberrys core segment. That isnt to say
that a handful of designs dont hover around
(and above) the 1,000 category the new
strategy is to cater to all levels. The difference
is that Coca is making the value visible to the
customer. The ultra-desirable assortment
includes Maple, a capacious, side-studded
carryall with top handles and shoulder
straps; Winsley, a neat, chain-handled style
in tricolour shiny goat; Chester, a ladylike
top-handed handbag with a cross-body
strap comprising five slim compartments;
Clifton, a natty chain purse, ideal for
days when all you need is your phone and
a credit card; and Selwood, a smart
shoulder bag with a polished silver bar
clasp (if youre a fan of Clines Classic, or
Hermss Constance, this
will be your favourite).
Each comes in deliciously
expensive-looking colour
combinations of navy,
oxblood and black, with
pops of optic white, and
emerald green and yellow
python. Get Coca on the
subject of colour and it soon
becomes apparent that its
another thing hes obsessive
about. The khaki cant be
too yellow, and if its too
grey its a bit sad. The
burgundy cant be too red we have to get
those things right, and consistency is
important, he insists, adding, Colour is part
of branding. Youll recognise it as Mulberry
from a distance not in the first season, but
over a few seasons you will.

Theres a
certain way
to handle
leather You
should roll it
like a pair
of tights

194

e has changed almost

everything, including
the logo. Its now
a softer, more elegant
Mulberry that dates
back to the early
Seventies, and which
Coca discovered in the archives. It has
a better personality it looks more British,
he explains. Hes also added England
beneath the new typography, because why
wouldnt you want that on there? Hes
changed other things, too, from where the
press-studs are sourced (in addition to how
big they are, the specific degree of shine and
the fact that Mulberry isnt stamped on all
of them, just one) to the new zips, which now
glide rather than chug along. To Coca, all
these things matter. People are now looking

Above: Johnny Coca makes

his ready-to-wear debut for
Mulberry in February. Left:
acid yellow over soft plum

The ladylike Chester bag.

Below left: bohemian coats
provide textural contrast.
Below right: the Maple

Chunky chains and

oversized fishnet
lend a punkish touch to
Cocas new collection

INDIGITAL

to one side and begins to roll the edge of the

white tablecloth to demonstrate. You see,
like this. If its done too quickly, it can stress
and damage the leather. Its clear what
Mulberry sees in him. Hes a man with
an exacting eye for detail, who notices
everything, even my Cline shoes. Capretto
leather, he notes. I tell him the heel height
is comfortable, Yes, it should be, its a seven.
(I measure it later: 7cm.)
To address the elephant in the room:
Mulberry hasnt had it easy of late. Prior to
Cocas arrival, the driving seat was vacant
for two years after the departure of Emma
Hill, whose legacy included the all-dancing
Alexa bag, exuberant shows complete with
celebrity front rows, advertising campaigns
shot by Tim Walker, and shiny, happy
flagship stores oozing English wit and
charm. Its been well documented that the
former CEO, Bruno Guillon, made the
colossal blunder of hiking prices up, away
from the 600 sweet spot and hurtling
towards four-figure sums.
(He arrived via Herms.
Go figure.) It was a strategy
that backfired spectacularly,
and share prices fell 67 per
cent in the 24 months that
he was in charge. Guillon
was ousted in March
2014, and replaced by the
former CEO of Lanvin,
Thierry Andretta.
Coca
describes
his
relationship with Andretta
as super honest. They
dine
together
every
Wednesday evening, trying out a different
eatery each time; last week it was an Indian
restaurant in Mayfair. Its our time to discuss
any issues and find solutions. We respect one
another; if we dont agree on something
then we talk it through, says Coca. In
December last year, Mulberry announced
that it had, in fact, returned to profit,
making 100,000 in the half year to
September 30, versus a loss of 1.1 million
in the same period in 2014.
Price points are more than a sticking point
here, and happily, Coca is a numbers man
with a sound head for business. He can tot
up figures as quickly as he can concoct
a dream bag, and reel off prices per metre to
the exact euro for every piece of material and
skin he uses, which is rare for a creative.
I want to make sure that what we offer is
accessible, he insists.
During the last round of orders for his
debut pre-autumn 16 collection, he
cancelled some bags because they came out
too expensive, even though buyers were
begging to take them. The price just wasnt
right, he shrugs. It wasnt right for

at the bags and asking, Where has this come headed up a team of 25. He left in 2005 for
from? The fact is it has come from the same Bally, and then relocated to London in 2010,
factories, the same craftspeople just with to Cline under Phoebe Philo.
a different direction. He has hung on to the
I was so impressed with Phoebe;
existing design team, too.
everything she does is so controlled, so
Coca, who speaks four languages (Spanish, considered and perfect, and its exciting to
English, French and Italian and also plans work for someone like that. I always wanted
to learn German), was born in Seville. He to do my best for her, he says. He makes
lived with his two sisters and mother, the no claims on products that he designed
best paella maker in all of Spain she should there. It was a workshop with Phoebe and
open a restaurant. He misses both the city me, is how he puts it. Anything you do in a
and his mother, to whom he remains close. brand is part of that brand and is always
I grew up in a very female-centric
Cocas first job was
environment. I went shopping
designing window
with them and, yes, I had dreams
displays for Louis
Vuitton: I would
of becoming a designer, but I didnt
draw little bags
know anyone in the industry, so
in my sketches.
I focused on mathematics and
I thought, actually,
this is quite easy.
physics everything with numbers,
He is pictured
I loved it. He thought he would
with the Maple
be an aeronautical engineer, so he
moved to Paris as a teenager in
1992 to study art, architecture and
design at the Ecole Nationale des
Beaux-Arts and Ecole Boulle and
Ecole Nationale dArchitecture
de Paris-Malaquais. Little wonder,
then, that he says he designs a bag
like a house, paying attention
to construction, functionality and
weight. His creations might look
reassuringly heavy but theyre
remarkably and cleverly light.
Aged 21, and keen to start
paying his mother back for his
education, he scored a freelance
job alongside his studies, creating
windows for Louis Vuitton. To
propose my window designs,
I would draw little bags in my
sketches, and I thought, actually,
this is quite easy, designing
accessories. He called the late
Yves Carcelle, then CEO of Louis
Vuitton, and asked if he could meet with him something that you have done with someone,
to show him his sketches. He was asked to or at the very least, it was always something
start the following week, but he still had six that was approved, validated by somebody
months of school left. I couldnt leave else. Why did he leave? It was time to do
early, my mother was so proud of me. I had more, he admits. I started out with bags,
to graduate. (He nearly didnt. When his and then I got other categories, but then you
tutors heard about his part-time job he was want another category, and another one
almost thrown out, but he managed to talk I was ready for a new challenge.
them round.)
His expertise is in leather, and thats no
Louis Vuitton kept him busy, and hed bad thing, given that bags and small leather
barely begun his end-of-year college project goods currently account for approximately
just two weeks before the deadline. All I had 80 per cent of Mulberrys sales. Then
were the sketches, and I had to make the theres the fact that 51 per cent of all British
prototypes, he remembers. Louis Vuitton women bought a handbag last year,
kindly allowed me to use its ateliers contributing to an accessories market in
I worked there with the craftsmen every this country worth a whopping 2.7 billion.
night and all weekend to get it finished. But theres the not-so-small matter of a
He stayed there for four years, leaving ready-to-wear show to stage twice a year.
in 2000, aged 26, for a job at Cline, under Its significant: Mulberry has ambitious
the direction of Michael Kors, where he plans to eventually give equal billing to all
HENRY BOURNE

product groups bags, small leather goods,

ready-to-wear, jewellery and shoes.
Cocas debut at London Fashion Week in
February marked Mulberrys return to the
runway in more than two years, and his
first main collection for the label Londons
Guildhall, a Grade I-listed building, seemed
fitting for the occasion. I started by thinking
about what I liked. I like simplicity, I like
leather, I like the biker jacket I live in my
biker jacket and so I thought, Lets play
with these pieces but in different ways.
He loves this countrys heritage,
London, and its punk and
rocknroll scenes, so theres a
rebellious edge to those jagged,
asymmetric leather kilts with
chain belts. But theyre tempered
with smart melton wool coats and
military capes with contrast
stitching and press-studs (fast
becoming a Coca hallmark) to
popper on and off. It all harks
back to his love of architecture,
function and versatility; the ability
to build a look with layers.
That contrast between elegance
and eccentricity, you only get it in
England, Coca says. Britishness
is a constant source of inspiration
for him. Even the carved heads of
animals hares, deer found on
walking sticks in country houses
stoked his imagination for silverplated and porcelain jewellery.
Cocas Mulberry might be
more directional, more forward
thinking, more fashionable, but no
one can deny that the house was
in need of modernising. It may
take a little time for existing
customers to come round to his
way of doing things, but he hasnt
forgotten them: theres enough
colour to appeal to a Mulberry girls funloving side, and enough khaki, navy,
burgundy and white to entice more
minimalist types.
With the first runway show under his belt,
Coca will now be turning his attention
to revamping the stores. I have too many
ideas. I need to edit. I want to keep a sense of
classicism but I need comfort too, nothing
too dramatic. In fact, everything will soon
be changing, right down to the packaging.
Impractical shopping bags are a pet peeve of
his. I want a nice shopping bag, with nice
paper, a nice ribbon, a nice attitude you
know? he muses. I hate bags that are too
long, that are difficult to climb into a taxi
with. Sometimes I have this huge, awkward
bag and its dragging along the pavement
OK, I know Im not tall but it has to be
easy, it has to be user-friendly.
Q
195

Lemaire
A calm, contained allure infuses
Christophe Lemaires work. Here,
the trench coat gets an absorbing
reboot in buttoned-up bottle green

Dpche MODE
A new generation
of designers is seducing
the French fashion scene
with a radical mood.
Forget the sober Gallic
gravity of yesteryear:
now the Parisienne has
an off-kilter swagger.
By Ellie Pithers
Photographs by Angelo Pennetta.
Styling by Francesca Burns

Bottle-green coatedcotton raincoat, 810.

Black cotton dress,
470. Leather shoes,
365. All Lemaire.
Hair: Syd Hayes.
Make-up: Lauren
Parsons. Nails: Adam
Slee. Set design: Andy
Hillman. Production:
Ragi Dholakia
Productions. Model:
Mica Arganaraz

196

Y Project
The rough with the smooth, the dramatic
with the everyday Its the duality
that lends Glenn Martenss work an
almost accidental sexiness. Show some
skin with his deconstructed separates

Silk top, 480.

Double-layer cotton
jeans, 320. Leather
heels, from a selection.
All Y Project, at
La Boutik

197

Paco Rabanne
Julien Dossenas magical mash-ups ensure his Paco
girl is dishevelled but determined. Utility meets fantasy
in this gently unravelling take on a tracksuit
Natural frayed satin and crpe gilet, to order.
Matching trousers, to order. Both Paco Rabanne

198

Vetements
Explosive hype surrounds this stirring design
collective, one of whom takes the reins at
Balenciaga this season. Their tablecloth vinyl
boots are a typically subversive proposal

Cupro dress,
from 955. Vinyl
boots, from 1,250.
Both Vetements, at
Browns and Dover
Street Market

ANGELO PENNETTA

199

Masha Ma
A fringe member of Pariss close-knit cabal,
Masha Mas club-kid-inspired spring
collection makes a case for urban androgyny

Vinyl top, from a

selection. Wool-mix
trousers, from 170.
Fringed belt, from 230.
All Masha Ma, at Layers.
Frayed silk skate shoes,
580, Calvin Klein
Collection

200

Koch
How do you like your streetwear? Christelle Kochers
comes with a distinctly romantic, couture edge.
Wear her hand-worked denim with nothing underneath
Denim jacket embroidered with tulle, 1,070.
Matching jeans, 860. Both Koch, at Selfridges

ANGELO PENNETTA

201

Courrges
New look Courrges is about perfect pieces, not the total
go-go style of old. Exercise some design rigour and pair
a snap-fastened glossy skirt with a simple ribbed knit
White cotton/cashmere sweater, from 280. Black vinyl miniskirt, from 540. White
patent-leather shoes, from 620. All Courrges, at Liberty and Matchesfashion.com

202

Jacquemus
The splice is right: Simon Porte
Jacquemuss artfully severed
iterations semaphore an elegant
nonchalance. Dont forget to smile

Cotton minidress,
from 358. Leather
shoes, from 365.
Both Jacquemus,
at Browns and
Dover Street Market.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information

ANGELO PENNETTA

203

he waiters at Le
Prsident, in the
Parisian quartier of
Belleville, are used
to taking orders for
Peking duck and
sweet and sour pork. At 10pm one
evening in early October, however,
they were met with more obscure
demands: one green Lurex ruffled
dress, sil vous plat, with a side
serving of acid-yellow, rose-printed
vinyl cowboy boots and a pair of
stiff, crunchy jeans to go.
That Vetements, a collective of
Maison Martin Margiela and Louis
Vuitton design alumni, had chosen
to show its spring/summer 2016
collection in a Chinese restaurant
rather than in one of the myriad
architectural gems that exist within
the City of Light, is symptomatic of
a label whose so-called anti-fashion
attitude defines every piece of
keeping-it-real clothing it produces.
Its also evidence of the new mood
sweeping through Paris. The
traditionally French pretty-polish
codes of chic have been jettisoned by
an altogether grittier proposal and
the spotlight has shifted to a new
wave of young design talent.
At the forefront: Jacquemus,
Y Project, Koch, Christophe
Lemaire, Masha Ma and, of course,
Vetements, which received the
ultimate industry endorsement
when Demna Gvasalia, the collectives
35-year-old chief designer, was
made creative director of Balenciaga
following Alexander Wangs departure
a few days after that game-changing
spring show. Then theres the youthful
revival of some of Pariss soft-spot
heritage brands: Paco Rabanne
and Courrges, both being reworked
for a new generation by Julien
Dossena, 33, at Paco Rabanne, and
Sbastien Meyer, 27, and Arnaud
Vaillant, 26, at Courrges.
The irresistible new Gallic swagger
comes as a welcome boost to a
sluggish luxury sector, struggling
against a backdrop of depression in
the wake of Novembers terror attacks.
In the context of the past 10 years,
its equally encouraging. Rather than
Paris Fashion Week being dominated
by the international brands that
choose to show in the capital, such
as the Tokyo-based Sacai, or the
reinvention of historic French houses,
such as Balenciaga and Dior, the focus
has altered to take in a group of young,

204

predominantly French designers who

have set up their own fledgling brands.
Excitement and cross-pollination
abound: traditional craftsmanship
has been imbued with the radical
new potency more commonly
associated with London or New York.
With fresh perspective comes
an off-kilter, deadpan accessibility.
These are cool catwalk clothes to
be worn anywhere and everywhere.
At Vetements, biker jackets, hoodies,
tracksuits and jeans sartorial
realpolitik got unpredictable
updates via logos and cuts that
made them wearable and eminently

Vetements held its

s/s 16 show in a
Chinese restaurant
in northeast Paris

For us, Paris is not to do

with chic that type of
Paris I dont know
desirable. Elsewhere, springtime
clichs were drastically altered: floral
dresses shook off goody-goody
connotations when reworked in
tablecloth plastics; polka dots got
steely backbone thanks to the
oversized proportions of a jersey
dress and its pairing with acid-yellow
boots. It couldnt have been further
from the Breton tee, skinny jeans,
kitten heels and navy blazer formula
that has come to stereotype the
Parisian look. As Gvasalia has said in
the past, For us, Paris is not to do
with chic that type of Paris I dont
know. We go to the flea markets in
the north, or on the Mtro, or in the
streets the real Paris. If I ever go to
areas like Saint-Germain-des-Prs,
I feel like a tourist. It actually feels
like a movie. Glenn Martens, the
Belgian designer behind Y Project,
who was once Gvasalias fit model,
agrees. I get my inspiration from the
street. Im that creepy guy staring at

you in the Mtro. I love watching

people, seeing what they wear, how
their clothes affect them.
Koch, too, seeks to expose another,
less elitist side of Paris. Couture on
a grubby escalator? Why not, if
you stage your show in the lower
concourse of Les Halles Mtro
station after the mall has shut and the
commuters dispersed, and happen to
concurrently be the creative director
of one of Pariss last surviving couture
ateliers. Christelle Kocher, the
designer behind the year-old label,
also works at Maison Lemari, an
atelier now owned by Chanel, which
specialises in the application of
feathers to garments. Her streetwise
spring collection comprised sparkling
sports bras, hand-embroidered and
embellished in specialist couture
ateliers Lesage and Montex, and
appliqu camouflage workers jackets
and jeans. It referenced youth culture,
but in a Parisian context.
But youth can also be sleek and
rigorous, if Courrges is anything
to go by. For their first presentation
at Paris Fashion Week in September,
Sbastien Meyer and Arnaud
Vaillant showed just 15 meticulously
constructed and refreshed Courrges
classics, each available in 15
different colours. There were no
total looks because who shops in
looks any more? rather, a roll-call
of simple basics: snap-fastened
pelmet miniskirts, cropped moto
jackets, A-line shifts and gently
deconstructed slip dresses. Courrges
almost invented ready-to-wear; he
was such a revolutionary, says
Vaillant, a former Balenciaga
employee who plays the business
brains to Meyers artistic eye. We
knew we could not just do a normal
collection. We have to think
differently, to try to change the
system. The tactic has borne fruit,
even if their own brand, Coperni
Femme, with which they won the
Andam prize in 2014, is a casualty of
their success, and has currently been
put on hold. Ill miss Coperni, says
Sarah Andelman, creative director
and founder of influential Parisian
boutique Colette, but Sbastian
and Arnaud are very smart. The
way they took Courrges codes and
modernised them just with colours
or materials or proportions was
very clever. They have an incredible
energy. Needless to say, shes
stocking them for spring.

GETTY; LOWE H SEGER; JEAN DU SARTEL-HEINTZ; ALICIA SHI;

COURTESY JACQUEMUS; COURTESY LVMH PRIZE; SPELA KASAL/SHOTVIEW

Energy, grit, timing all have

contributed to the current Parisian
zeitgeist. But dont underestimate
the technical exactitude that
underpins the hype. Vetements
clothes are handmade in a number
of small ateliers in Paris; each pair of
its autumn/winter 15 stiff denim
jeans is made from two vintage pairs,
cut along the seam and stitched
together in a new pattern to guarantee
a flattering fit in a process that takes
six hours. Similarly at Koch, handworked techniques imbue sports
garments with a specific allure.
Is the timing purely coincidental?
Not entirely. In 2012 the Institut
pour le Financement du Cinma et
des Industries Culturelles launched
the Young Fashion Designers
initiative, backed by Chanel,
Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton and the
French culture ministry. Since its
inception it has provided 3.4 million
in loans to help businesses between
two and 10 years old produce
collections. Labels including Officine
Gnrale and Olympia Le-Tan have
benefitted from the scheme. The
creation of several fashion prizes has
also benefitted young designers. The
Andam Award, sponsored by Chanel,
Kering and LVMH, offers a cash
prize of 250,000 and a two-year
mentorship. In 2014 the LVMH
Prize launched; winners receive
300,000 and a year of mentoring.
Jacquemus took home the runner-up
prize of 150,000 last year.
There has been a cultural shift, too.
Once, French designers, burdened
with couture heritage, spent years
learning the ropes in a big house,
refining romantic notions of what the
Parisienne might want to wear; now
they feel able to talk freely of selling
clothes. The team at Vetements even
feels sufficiently unfettered to pursue
a new sales model: as of January next
year it will mix menswear and
womenswear collections, showing
twice a year in Paris outside the
established schedule, in a move they
claim will prevent overproduction.
Still, if young designers are to keep
finding a voice, the money has to
keep on coming. For, as Martens
points out, Paris is saturated with
big houses and is quite hostile to
startups. You have to be very
independent, a bit of a masochist and
extremely inventive if you want to
make it. Luckily for us, the nouvelle
vague was willing to take the hit. Q

the DESIGNERS

Above: Christelle
Kocher, of
couture-inflected
streetwear
brand Koch
Above: Christophe Lemaire,
purveyor of restrained allure. Right:
Demna Gvasalia leads the radical
collective at Vetements. Below:
Glenn Martens is pioneering urban
sexiness at Y Project. Bottom: Julien
Dossenas mix of decorative and
austere is reviving Paco Rabanne

Above: Simon
Porte Jacquemus
combines
surrealist cuts
with commercial
clout. Left: Masha
Ma is known for
her futuristic
aesthetic. Below:
Sbastian Meyer
and Arnaud
Vaillant are
breathing new life
into Courrges

205

VOGUEbody

CHARLOTTE WALES. FASHION EDITOR: VERITY PARKER. HAIR: RAMSELL MARTINEZ. MAKE-UP: KANAKO TAKASE.
PRODUCTION: ROSCO PRODUCTION. DIGITAL ARTWORK: HAYDEN LEWIS AT GLOSS STUDIO. MODEL: SUVI KOPONEN

Bikini top, 37.

Matching bottoms,
28. Both Calvin
Klein Swimwear,
at Selfridges

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

GET SET...
...for the ultimate guide to your best-ever body.
Swimwear to rock the beach; runway-inspired lingerie
and fitness kit; the food that makes healthy fun; and the
travel secrets of the women who know how to stay clean,
lean and serene 24/7. Dont get undressed without it
207

ACTION
FIGURE
The secret of body confidence? Its all about owning it. Choose athletic swimwear and
lingerie, and major in monochrome for a look that plays to your strengths
Photographs by Charlotte Wales. Styling by Verity Parker

208

Blend underwear
and fitness wear for
a modern take on the
two-piece. LAgents
soft mesh bra is sporty
enough to wear outside

VOGUEbody

Opposite: padded mesh bra, 50,

LAgent by Agent Provocateur.
Mesh running shorts, 95, Michi

The new beach classic:

a black crop top with
high-waisted knickers
is a flattering way to
work a bold look
This page: crop top, 45, Varley.
Corset knickers, 64, Wacoal.
Hair: Ramsell Martinez.
Make-up: Kanako Takase.
Production: Rosco Production.
Digital artwork: Hayden
Lewis at Gloss Studio.
Model: Suvi Koponen

209

Written on the
body: go hard or go
home in modern
monochrome.
A bikini top under
a one-piece creates
a beachy take on
the layering trend
One-shoulder swimsuit,
300, Araks. Black bikini
top, worn underneath,
100, Beth Richards

210

CHARLOTTE WALES

Beauty note: the

new generation of
SPF oils have high
factors but also leave
skin with a lovely
gleam. Try Clarins
Sun Care Oil Spray
SPF30, 19.50, or
Lancaster Satin Sheen
Oil SPF30, 24

VOGUEbody

211

212

VOGUEbody

It doesnt have to be about

baring all: sportswear
styling shows a softer
side with Seafollys black
one-piece. Add glamour
with slicked-back hair and
a coral lipstick: try Dior
Addict Lipstick in Happy,
26.50, and spritz hair
with Phytoplage Protective
Sun Veil, 15
Opposite: swimsuit, 116, Seafolly

Turn up the volume with

bold geometric shapes that
are made for walking tall
This page: sports bra, 160. Mesh
running shorts, 95. Both Michi

CHARLOTTE WALES

213

214

VOGUEbody

Rock chic: a sporty white

two-piece looks modern
for rest or play. Ensure
your tan is up to the
challenge with St Tropez
Gradual Tan In Shower
Tanning Lotion,
14.50, now available
in a deeper shade
Opposite: bikini top, 175.
Matching bottoms, 190.
Both Lisa Marie Fernandez

A surf-inspired zip-up
suit with go-faster stripes
is a new holiday essential:
when the rays are at their
strongest, layer over a
bikini and, when its time
for a dip, dive straight in
This page: paddleboard suit,
170, The Upside
All items, throughout, available
at The Body Studio in Selfridges,
and Selfridges.com

CHARLOTTE WALES

215

VOGUEbody
PRINT RUN
The trend for graphic-print
leggings has now extended into
high-performance trainers. Here
are three of our favourites

VOGUES
SUMMER
WORKOUT
PLAYLIST
SIGALA FT. IMANI
AND DJ FRESH

NIKE FREE TR 6 PRINT

WOMENS TRAINING SHOE,
110, HAS FLYWIRE CABLES
THAT ASYMMETRICALLY WRAP
THE FOREFOOT FOR
STABILITY

Say You Do

ZHU
Faded

SISTER SLEDGE
Thinking of You
NEW BALANCE 711V2 GRAPHIC
TRAINER, 55, IS ENGINEERED
WITH CUSH+ TECHNOLOGY
AND IMPRINT FOAM
FOR SUPPORT

DUKE DUMONT
Ocean Drive

SHAKKA
When Will I See
You Again

CHET FAKER
Gold

RIHANNA
Work

LION BABE

ADIDAS PURE BOOST X, 90,

OFFERS A STRETCHWEB RUBBER
OUTSOLE THAT ADAPTS TO THE
GROUND FOR OPTIMAL
PUSH-OFF

Where Do We Go

MICHAEL JACKSON
P.Y.T. (Pretty
Young Thing)

DJ FRESH
Gold Dust

NEW WAVE
If you have the kind of hair that goes frizzy post-workout, head
to Daniel Galvin salons to check out the new Cuts for Curls menu.
Stylists will recommend the right cut for your natural waves, from
the Spiralizer to the Bouncy Bob, as well as the best Krastase
products to tame them. Exclusive to Daniel Galvin Selfridges for
three months, from 70. Call 020 7318 3663 for appointments.

KERASTASE
DISCIPLINE
OLEO-CURL,
20.90

STELLA McCARTNEY

ALASDAIR McLELLAN; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; PAUL BOWDEN; PIXELATE.BIZ.

TO BUY, VISIT SELFRIDGES, SELFRIDGES.COM OR SEE VOGUE INFORMATION

The inside TRACK

THE SECRET TO A GREAT WORKOUT? HIGH-TECH
TRAINERS, A ROUSING PLAYLIST AND SOME POST-GYM
INDULGENCES, SAYS LOTTIE WINTER

SELFRIDGES
EVERYBODY RUN KIT,
45. ALL PRODUCTS,
PART OF SET

BODY AND SOUL

This month the third floor of Selfridges
reopens as the Body Studio,
a 37,000sq ft temple to
body confidence. The aim is to
celebrate women: their strength, their
confidence and their wellbeing and
its the first time the department
store has brought its lingerie,
sleepwear, swimwear and hosiery
together in one place. Stop by the
Pick n Mix Knicker Bar, the Fit Studio
offering lingerie personal shopping and
for blameless refreshment the
Hemsley & Hemsley Caf, created by
Vogues very own food contributors.
217

VOGUEbody
LA PERLA
BRA, 113

HEIDI KLUM
INTIMATES
BRA, 36

SEAFOLLY BIKINI TOP, 49.

BOTTOMS, 43
COSABELLA
BRA, 42

ADIDAS
BY STELLA
McCARTNEY
VISOR, 19

FOREVER
STRIPES
Keep things bold and beautiful
with New York tough-girl sports
luxe-inspired pieces

70s RAINBOW
Geek will always be chic
with kaftans, crochet and a
Seventies sensibility

MELISSA
ODABASH
SHORTS,
190

MARA
HOFFMAN
BIKINI TOP, 115.
BOTTOMS, 125.
EXCLUSIVE TO
SELFRIDGES
FLEUR DU MAL
BRA, 116

HEIDI KLEIN
SWIMSUIT,
210

WOLFORD
TOP, 65

GUCCI

LISA MARIE
FERNANDEZ
SPORTS BRA,
180

ALEXANDER WANG

JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; PIXELATE.BIZ. TO BUY, VISIT THE BODY STUDIO AT SELFRIDGES,
SELFRIDGES.COM OR SEE VOGUE INFORMATION

FALKE
SOCKS,
9

What lies
BENEATH

LAZUL
WRAP,
335

WHICHEVER TREND YOU CHANNEL

THIS SEASON, EXTEND IT TO BEACHWEAR,
WORKOUT GEAR AND LINGERIE,
TOO, SAYS LOTTIE WINTER
219

VOGUEbody

OLIVIA
VON HALLE
FOUNDER OF THE EPONYMOUS
LOUNGEWEAR BRAND

RAYMOND MEIER. TO BUY, VISIT SELFRIDGES, SELFRIDGES.COM

OR SEE VOGUE INFORMATION

Were excited about our cashmere

tracksuits, which we are launching in
September; theyll be perfect for plane
wear. We are obsessed with them in the
studio and cant wait for them to come
out. We revolutionised the pyjama and
now have our sights set on the tracksuit.
When I travel I always take a pair of
our Lila pyjamas and, just in case I get
invited to an event, an Alessandra
Rich dress; I also pack a Pippa Holt
kaftan and a Missy Moscow tracksuit
from my collection for the plane. I
load up my iPad with movies and make
sure I have my Bose noise-cancelling
headphones. Once on holiday, I live
in Prism bikinis and espadrilles.
Ive received lots of compliments
on my skin since switching to Este
Lauder skincare last year I adore its
Re-Nutriv range, so always make sure
I pack it. I love Japanese food
and always crave sushi on
a Sunday night: its a
great way to feel healthy
after a big weekend!
I live for brunch at
M on the Bund
OLIVIA
VON HALLE
in Shanghai and
PYJAMAS, 350
dinner at Roka
in London. >

M ON THE
BUND IN
SHANGHAI

PRISM
BIKINI TOP, 108.
BOTTOMS, 92

ESTEE
LAUDER
RE-NUTRIV
DUAL
INFUSION,
255

Ahead of the
PACK
ITS ONE THING LOOKING GOOD
AND FEELING HEALTHY AT HOME, BUT
TRAVEL CAN BE TRICKY. HERE, FOUR
WOMEN TELL LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH
HOW THEY DO IT

221

VOGUEbody
LAURIE
NOUCHKA
CROP TOP,
65

SWEATY
BETTY
WORKOUT
BRA, 42

MELISSA (ON LEFT)

AND JASMINE
HEMSLEY
ACE & TATE
SUNGLASSES,
89

MELISSA AND JASMINE HEMSLEY

SISTERS BEHIND THE HEALTH-FOOD PHENOMENON HEMSLEY & HEMSLEY

MELISSA: When we travel, our lunchboxes

are packed with homemade snacks: our multiseed
crackers (the cinnamon ones are my favourite),
apple and bacon muffins, or a spiced mung bean
salad for something more substantial.
After I arrive somewhere, the first thing I do
is empty the mini bar in my room and fill it with
lots of foods that make me feel good and plenty
of glass-bottled water. I love exploring new
foods in new places though, so Ill try as much
as possible to eat locally. One of my favourite
restaurants is Manfreds in Copenhagen pure
bliss. We hope visitors to London will feel the
same about the caf which we are opening in the
new Body Studio at Selfridges.
I wear big sunglasses on holiday and two of
my favourite brands are Ace & Tate and Zanzan.
I work out in Lululemon leggings, Sweaty Betty
sports bras and Vivobarefoot trainers.
JASMINE: Yoga and running (my yin and
yang) are both pretty portable I take my new
M2Malletier yoga mat everywhere. Im not one

for the gym but I love classes and trying new

places near my first or last meeting of the day.
Some of my favourite leggings are by Laurie
Nouchka and Kalindi Yoga: theyre high waisted,
with lots of pattern and very loud.
When I step off the plane Im usually craving
something fresh and veg-packed. If Im going
into the unknown, superfood powders come in
handy. Having some supergreens like spirulina
and baobab is great, and Sunwarrior protein
powder. Add them to drinks or porridge for
antioxidants, vitamins and good-quality protein.
My emergency rations are dark chocolate
and tea bags for the plane and in the hotel
Id line my suitcase with them if I had to.
I always make sure I pack my Taylor Morris
sunglasses when I travel they have been with
me all over the world.
We like to use natural skincare brands, which
are becoming more commonplace. Among our
favourites are Kypriss Antioxidant Dew and
Oskias Restoration Oil.

OSKIA
RESTORATION
OIL, 62

KYPRIS
ANTIOXIDANT
DEW, 52

M2MALLETIER
YOGA MAT, 65,
EXCLUSIVE TO
SELFRIDGES

ADIDAS
BY STELLA
McCARTNEY
RUNNING
TIGHTS, 35

FOUNDER OF NEW YORK LINGERIE BRAND

FLEUR DU MAL

LISA MARIE
FERNANDEZ
SWIMSUIT, 275

FLEUR DU MAL
LACE BALCONETTE BRA,
190. KNICKERS, 95

BEATS BY DRE
WIRELESS
HEADPHONES,
270

222

When I cant make it to a class, I use the

New York Times app for the 7-Minute Workout
at home; sometimes Ill do two rounds. There
are a few brands I love to wear when exercising: Live
The Process, Outdoor Voices and Stella McCartney
for Adidas. Im really into one-piece swimsuits lately:
its a nice change from a bikini. Since we launched
swim for resort, Ive been wearing all of our suits. I also
like Lisa Marie Fernandez. I always travel with an
eyemask, moisturiser, headphones and a scarf. I love
cooking and when I was last in London picked
up the Rose Bakery cookbook; Im also a fan of Alice
Waters [of Chez Panisse in California]. The best
beauty advice Ive ever had was from my mother, who
told me to stay out of the sun.
Olivia von Halle, Fleur du Mal and the Hemsley & Hemsley
Caf are all part of the new Body Studio at Selfridges

NICK HOOPER; SIMBARASHE CHA. TO BUY, VISIT SELFRIDGES, SELFRIDGES.COM OR SEE VOGUE INFORMATION

JENNIFER ZUCCARINI
OUTDOOR
VOICES
CROP TOP,
FROM 35

VOGUEbody

THE NAKED truth

LOVE THEM OR HATE THEM, COMMUNAL CHANGING ROOMS HAVE MADE A BOLD RETURN
AT THE NEWEST FITNESS CLUBS. CHARLOTTE SINCLAIR REVEALS ALL

LAURIE BARTLEY

he naked female body. Its rather a shock

to encounter it in the middle of your
afternoon. One moment youre walking
off the street into the gym, head full of
thoughts of work and life, then bam! There it
is, an exclamation point of flesh, as subtle as a
brick to the head. Theres no getting around it.
Literally, in my case. In the smart communal
changing rooms at one of Londons chicest
boutique fitness outfits, I step purposefully
(eyes forward, humming to affect insouciance)
past a woman wrapping her hair in a towel.
She is quite, quite naked, and though I really
am trying not to, I cant help but notice her full
(luxuriant, you might even say) Seventies bush.

Its not that Im unused to nudity (my own

or other peoples), its just that womens bodies,
up close and personal, seem charmingly at odds
with the environment in which we currently
come into contact with them: the ramped-up,
high-spec, fully fitted and kitted communal
changing rooms of the fanciest fitness studios.
Here, the air is purified, the lighting is
flattering, and the amenities are hotel-standard:
Bumble & Bumble shampoos and Ila body
wash, GHD straighteners, tongs, spare elastics,
tampons, deodorant and, at all-female
members club Grace Belgravia, hairdressers
summoned from nearby Neville to blow-dry
your post-yoga mop into perfect bouncy waves.

You would have thought that with all these

treats and added extras the most obvious
luxury would be privacy; indeed, at Grace
Belgravia there are specially designed shower
cubicles with in-built changing areas for
those leery of flashing the flesh. But, for most,
its about getting in the altogether, all together.
Is this some subliminal way of body shaming
us into exercise? (We might appear to be
keeping our eyes on our lockers but there is
some serious side-eye going on in these
rooms, a high-volume game of Are my thighs
bigger than hers?). Or is it just that were
more comfortable with nudity these days, a
little more European than English in our >
225

VOGUEbody
attitudes, and a little too busy to care? The
more mundane reasoning finds that where
space is at a premium, communal changing
simply makes more sense per square foot.
I tend to go to class dressed for class and
then dart home afterwards for a shower rather
than face the queues. If I absolutely have to
get changed, then its done as unobtrusively
and quickly as possible, preferably in a
shadowy, unvisited corner. My idea of hell is
a locker in the main thoroughfare of a
communal changing room. Really its the
embarrassment of getting my kit off in public
all that red-faced wrangling with straps, the
strategically placed towels, the knickers put
on inside out: its a setting rich with potential
humiliation. (I might be OK with public
nudity, but really it is other peoples public
nudity.) A cursory glance around these spaces
reveals Im certainly in the minority in my
thinking. But if I was in the best shape of my
life, would I still be so very Victorian about
getting it all off? What would it take for me
to join in with the rudey nudies? At this stage
Im thinking a personality transplant.
For most, though, the communal experience
is a heartening one. (Unless you have models
in your midst, in which case its advisable to
clear out as quickly as possible or risk a serious
blow to your self-esteem.) Rhian Stephenson,
CEO and top trainer at spinning outlet Psycle
(and owner of one of the best bodies in town),
says, Its about intimacy between women and
a sense of community. We dont talk about
weight here, we talk about energy and
happiness, so subsequently I dont think
people feel as body shy.

heres an audience in a changing room,

and often its an appreciative one. Ive
been complimented on a particular pair
of Lucas Hugh leggings several times while
emptying my locker after a class. Tamara
Hill-Norton, founder of Sweaty Betty, says
she is frequently approached in the changing
rooms of her local health club by women
praising a certain piece of kit or pointing
out flaws in her designs, criticism that she
says is invaluable. She sees the trend in
wider terms of style. In fitness studios,
women used to cover up in baggy things,
now theyre wearing tiny crop tops to rock
their six-pack or toned arms. Women are
definitely more confident about showing off
their bodies in the studio, so why wouldnt
that translate to the changing room?
The Instagram generation arent body
shy, says Elissa El Hadj, founder of Form
Studios. Their mantra is, If youve got it,
flaunt it. These women empower themselves
by training hard and following a healthy
lifestyle. She continues, Cellulite-free
limbs and pert buttocks should be proudly
on show in the changing room for other
women to admire and hopefully derive
226

inspiration from. (A pert bottom also makes

a particularly good target at which to aim
your thought daggers.)
Why not be proud of what youve
achieved? asks model Tallulah Harlech, a
regular at Barrys Bootcamp. I feel good
about my body, so mostly Im pretty naked
in the changing room. Women dress for
women more than for men, and I think we
work out not only to look good in clothes
but for our bodies to be looked at and
admired by other women, too.
Its a case of picking your moment. I was at
a class with a friend, Harlech continues, and
there was a moment in the changing room
when we were both butt-naked and about to
have a full-on catch-up, and it was like, Hang
on, maybe Ill just put my bra and knickers
on before we continue? Nudity between
strangers is fine, but with friends its awkward.
There should be a German word to describe
the exquisite horror of making accidental eye
contact with an acquaintance as they take

There should be
a German word to
describe the horror of
eye contact with a nude
acquaintance
their nude stroll from the shower. Tamara
Hill-Norton recalls a design trip to Morocco
and a fateful hammam where they got us to
take everything off. I mean, I know my team
really well, but they were my work colleagues.
Thats why the design of these spaces is so
important; not just in the obvious ways of
enough bench space and clean showers, but
as environments that quiet the mind and
quell anxieties. At the Bulgari Hotel, home
to Lee Mullinss Workshop Gymnasium, the
changing rooms also feed the spa and the air
is filled with calming plinky-plonky music
that might usually accompany a 90-minute
aromatic massage. Its all warm wood and
stone floors and Espa body cream and miles
of mirror space including flattering floorlength mirrors angled just so to make your
legs look two sizes leaner and a foot longer.
In Grace Belgravias changing room, there is
a similarly hushed, relaxing atmosphere,
conjured by pink leather banquettes and
marble rain showers. The steam room area
smells of dried eucalyptus and suntans, like
holidays, and you can order a kale salad
while still in your dressing gown. Its the
kind of spot where the Queens cousin is in
your yoga class and the pavement outside is
nose-to-bumper Bentleys. The lockers, as
the manager explains, have hanger space for
ballgowns. Of course they do. As founder
Kate Percival says, The changing rooms are
designed to be as luxurious and as well-

equipped as ones bathroom at home. Or, in

this case, much, much better.
Small things make all the difference. At
Psycle, alongside the Bumble & Bumble hair
products, the changing area a human soup
during class changeover is scented by Ila,
something Zen but energising, says Rhian
Stephenson. While in the changing rooms at
James Duigans smart new Bodyism gym on
Westbourne Grove, towels are embroidered
with empowering words such as Love and
Compassion. My main priorities were
making people feel at home and providing
absolute comfort, says Duigan. The way
that it smells, the purified air, the crystals
hidden under the floorboards even the
lighting is designed to make people feel
better. Not only is it flattering no
downlighting weve also put vitamin D
lights in there so you get your vitamins and
your full light spectrum, to help combat
depression in winter.
Stories of communal-changing-room
mishaps range from the comedic (standing
up from a lower locker too quickly and
brushing ones cheek against a stray bosom)
to the frankly weird (coffee granules used as
a shower exfoliant). The issue with changing
rooms, with being at one with your fellow
woman, is that hiding in a crowd leads people
to think theyre invisible. There is all manner
of dubious, fascinating behaviour on show
from a woman plucking her bikini line while
blocking a row of lockers to another blowdrying her hair in sunglasses, to beauty
regimes of such elaboration and precision
(the delicate placing of two tissues on the
weighing scales before stepping on to them,
the body creaming as art form) its akin to
wisdom imparted by geishas.
Its the proximity to the physical in these
spaces that makes the etiquette so necessary.
No queue-barging for the showers. No
staring. No commenting on a strangers
intimate tattoos. No stealing your neighbours
towel. No defecating in the only available loo
before class, says Harlech, firmly. And could
you please not sit there eating that sandwich?
Bench space is sacred. If youre on the phone,
get out the way. Think about your underwear,
says Tamara Hill-Norton. If youre going to
be semi-naked, grey knickers are probably not
the way to go. But by all means approach
your trainer to tell her how life-changing her
classes are. And feel free to compliment
someone on their excellent leggings.
If you think its bad here, imagine what
its like in America birthplace of fitness
trends. I was at Soulcycle with a friend
in New York, recounts Stephenson, we
were late for a class so we ran downstairs,
whipped off our clothes, looked back and
there were 15 men watching us. The
changing rooms were unisex. Truly the
stuff of my nightmares.
Q

VOGUEbody
JAX COCO
TOASTED COCONUT
CHIPS WITH
CHILLI & LIME,
1.40

WHICH NUT
BUTTER ARE YOU?
PECAN Perfect for those with a

sweet tooth, this has a delicious

richness and is good for baking
PISTACHIO The choice of true
foodies, as it has such a delicate
and intriguing taste. Eat in autumn,
if youre being seasonal about it
MACADAMIA Makes an
exceptionally creamy butter
most akin to the traditional dairy
type, so great for spreading
CASHEW Close to peanut butter in
terms of taste, but more nutritious
ALMOND The most versatile for
spreading and baking, due to
its subtle flavour
HAZELNUT Youve probably already
tried this, thanks to Nutella, but
its equally good blended with
coconut or cinnamon
PEANUT Contains more protein
than many of the other nut butters.
Especially good in Asian cooking
WALNUT Has an elegant, almost
bitter taste, so best balanced with
lighter, sweeter foods

SELFRIDGES
RE BALANCE
NUT, SEED & BERRY
MEDLEY, 2.99

Eat UP
GO NUTS FOR NEW SNACKS,
COOKERY SCHOOLS AND
DESIGNER WATER BOTTLES.
BY NICOLA MOULTON

SERAX
GLASS WATER
BOTTLE, 15.95

SEA SENSE

THE COOK REPORT

tressed? Tired? Uninspired? Ordinarily you would probably head
for a spa. But theres a new way to unwind: at a cookery school. At
the River Cottage in Exeter, the one-day Seasonal Nutrition course
(240, Rivercottage.net) promises no fads, no gimmicks just delicious,
healthy eating for life, with breakfast, lunch, drink and treat recipes. At
Angela Hartnetts kitchen in the New Forests Lime Wood Hotel theres
a half-day Feel-good Food class (120, Limewoodhotel.co.uk) in which
youll learn to cook seasonal and additive-, wheat flour- and refined-sugarfree food from scratch. In London, try the Food at 52 Cookery School
in Clerkenwell (Foodat52.co.uk), or the Raw Food courses at Nama
in Notting Hill (Namafoods.com). Meanwhile, at Oxfordshires Soho
Farmhouse, the varied programme of cookery classes (from 70,
Sohofarmhouse.com) features private and group lessons, or one-to-one
sessions Come to think of it, the spa there is pretty good, too.

228

Plastic water bottles are bad

news for the environment. But
for working out, glass bottles
arent exactly practical. The next
generation are siliconewrapped, making them
(relatively) bounce-proof.
Alternatively, Selfridges has
collaborated with designers on
an aluminium range, with all
profits going to Project Ocean,
dedicated to eradicating plastic
waste from the sea.

Y-3 WATER BOTTLE,

27.99, EXCLUSIVE
TO SELFRIDGES

BKR
WATER BOTTLE
IN POUT, 25

ARTHUR ELGORT; PAUL BOWDEN. TO BUY, VISIT SELFRIDGES, SELFRIDGES.COM OR SEE VOGUE INFORMATION

MERIDIAN
SMOOTH CASHEW
BUTTER, 14.99

FAVOURITE SNACKS
in the Vogue office
right now

GQ Bar Dubai
JW Marriott Marquis Hotel
Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai

gqbar.com |

VOGUEbeauty
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:
BOBBI BROWN ART STICK
FOR LIPS IN HOT BERRY, 20.
GLO & RAY SKY BREAKER
LASTING SILKY EYELINER IN
ROSY CANDY, 28 (AS PART OF
SET), AT THISISBEAUTYMART.
COM. REVLON ULTRA HD
MATTE LIPCOLOR IN
OBSESSION, 8.99. CLINIQUE
SWEET POTS SUGAR SCRUB &
LIP BALM IN PINK FRAMBOISE,
15. CHANEL ROUGE COCO
ULTRA HYDRATING LIP
COLOUR IN INA, 26. SOAP
& GLORY SEXY MOTHER
PUCKER MATTE-LIP 3D
COLOUR & SCULPT IN WHOAH
PINK, 3.50. ROSIE FOR
AUTOGRAPH CREAM BLUSH
IN ROMANTIC FLUSH, 14,
AT MARKS & SPENCER .
BOURJOIS ROUGE EDITION
SOUFFLE DE VELVET LIP GLOSS
IN FUCHSIAMALLO, 8.99.
DIOR VERNIS IN PIVOINE, 19.
LANCOME JUICY SHAKER
FOR LIPS IN BERRY TALE, 18.
DOLCE & GABBANA THE
NAIL LACQUER IN BACIO, 20

PAUL BOWDEN

FUCHSIA trading
THIS SEASONS PINK IS UNASHAMEDLY LOUD. WEAR IT ON LIPS, NAILS, CHEEKS
AND EYES, WITH A SUN-KISSED GLOW, SAYS LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH

231

THERES A FRESH CUT ON THE FASHION RADAR AND,

AS JULIA HOBBS DISCOVERS, ITS JUST THE THING TO
CAPTURE THE GEEK-CHIC MOOD OF THE MOMENT

ts been a while since weve had

a haircut that so perfectly reflects
the fashion temperature. The last
one that shoulder-grazing, tonged,
tousled one-length style received
a nail in its coffin when it was
nicknamed the mum bob by Adele,
in reference to her own recently cut
hair. When that messy/dressy long
bob became the fail-safe look for
celebrities on the red carpet, fashion
232

moved on. And theres something

so perfect about the way the new
pageboy chop chimes with the way
we want to dress and feel now. This
cut is a face-framing fringe (think
Peggy Moffitt circa 1966), combed
forward, and pudding-bowl-style
layers that dont so much frame the
face as almost obscure it.
Weve got sick of looking at
long, overworked hair, explains Vogue

Consistently
cool: Peyton
Knight at
JW Anderson
s/s 16

JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MICHAEL TROW; PAUL BOWDEN

The new
PAGEBOY

hairstylist Luke Hersheson

while he lops two inches off
my own grown-out shag at his
Harvey Nichols HQ. Its now
about a shorter cut that looks
purposefully effortless, he
continues, as another chunk of
creamy, balayage-blonde hair
falls to the floor. No one wants
to look as though theyve put
hours into styling their hair
any more. The cut is it.
Its not a look for everyone.
So engrossed in conversation
with Hersheson am I that I
havent traced my reflection in
the mirror, and suddenly there
I am, without a scrap of makeup, my hair now a muted shade
of 90-denier-tights brown,
looking like Chachi from
Happy Days. I run my fingers
through the chunky layers
that end above my jawline,
nervously tease the collar of
my Stella McCartney tracksuit
top and screen a Facetime
call from my boyfriend for fear
of his reaction. Minutes later
Im on the Tube back to east
London, a blast of hot air
sending the bowl cut swirling.
A feeling of relief at having
cast femininity aside in favour
of something a bit more boyish
swims through me. I urgently
want to go shopping.
The pageboy, now, defines
the modern rules of sex
appeal that have spun off the
catwalk. From Guccis densely
decorated dresses and trippy
trouser-suiting
to
Louis
Vuittons futuristic gang girls
and Loewes chrome strides,
were no longer interested in
dressing to look obviously
pretty. Theres something very
fresh about going for the
eclectic extravagance of the
full-pelt Gucci look with
a devil-may-care, boyish do.
With this seasons emphasis
on a defiant, almost eccentric
round-the-clock fashion comes a
new kind of ready-to-wear hair that
takes the worry out of looking too
done when youve blown your pay
cheque on those bold, look-at-me
pieces. In short, go for the chop and
dial into the cachet of looking as if
you dont care that much.
The cut is consistently cool,
virtuoso hairstylist Guido Palau tells
me over the phone from New York

VOGUEbeauty
Fashion Week. Hes the man behind
the Peyton pageboy, the now-cult
cut which rocketed unknown model
Peyton Knight to the status of
Gucci superstar following her runway
appearance at the buzzing spring/
summer 16 show. The labels sparkling
trompe-loeil dresses sent pulses racing
for a new, electric kind of primness,
and Knights bouncy Seventies
bowl blowdry, which has gone on
to take centre stage in the houses
fantastical s/s 16 campaign (a rip-itout-and-take-to-the-salon stroke of
styling genius), was part of the
thrilling package. The result is a
ready-made look that can be played
two ways, crossing the boundary
between the rebel and the timelessly
chic. One caveat: you need to have the
right hair type. This cut works best on
fine to thick, naturally straight hair.
ack at Hershesons, Im all set
(literally) for the first variation:
a longer take on the classic
Purdey, named after Joanna Lumleys
character in the 1976 television series
The New Avengers. My hair is blown
out into a precise, graphic curve, the
ends gently turned under to give
the smoothest shroomy look. Its
perfect; a shiny swathe of hair that
instantly appears thicker. I delve into
my make-up bag to up the ante,
adding a flick of glossy black liquid
liner, and click on a pair of heavy gold
earrings I would ordinarily reserve for
evenings. Its as if Ive entered into
Another new model face and
a club of old-world sophistication
rather than the conspicuously prim. Chlo favourite, Cline Bouly, also
The boyish basin trim offsets the wears it well, setting the benchmark
feminine swish of a favourite slip for how to pull off the Purdey in
dress that I wear by day with an a hurry. (Tip: try adding LOrals
new Clay-to-Spray Dry
off-the-shoulder grey tee
It adds an Shampoo.) Hers looks
the simplicity of an
effortless with
exposed neck transmitting
unmistakable defiantly
an indigo denim jacket,
a modern, sexy vibe in the
fashion
boyish vest and jeans.
way that frozen, trailing
Day to day, the allure
waves dont any more.
statement
of peeping out from
At work on Monday,
to anything beneath that satisfyingly
earrings still in place, its
heavy, curved fringe
like Ive hit refresh on
you wear
offers a new definition
familiar wardrobe pieces,
thanks to the chop. Ready for a of pared-back cool. It adds
rocknroll kick, I take my seat in the a kind of unmistakable fashion
Hershesons chair again, wearing statement to anything youre
second-skin vinyl trousers and an wearing. What I love most is that
embellished bomber jacket, to switch it has a clever, two-faced kick to it:
into the undone variation on the new one minute the freshly brushed
pageboy: the Cali surfer. Left to dry look of a nursery-school-teacher-era
naturally and mussed up with Redken Lady Diana, the next, the windblown
Wind Blown Dry Finishing Spray, the look of a late-Seventies surfer kid.
look hints at a home-cut choppiness,
Ready-to-wear hair? This pageboy
taking the work out of head-to-toe style. is ready for anything.
Q

Super
smooth
The Peyton
pageboy requires
polishing and
priming products to
encourage the
sleekest of finishes
KERASTASE
LINCROYABLE
BLOWDRY
LOTION, 21

JOHN FRIEDA
FRIZZ EASE
PRE-WASH
TREATMENT,
12.99

Julia Hobbs with her

new pageboy cut
by Luke Hersheson
and, below, its
undone variation

PHILIP KINGSLEY
PK PREP POLISHING
BALM, 18.50

Perfectly
dishevelled
For the Cali surfer
version, cheat your
way with the latest
texture-building
products the choppier
your hair, the better

TRESEMME
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LOREAL ELVIVE
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SHAMPOO, 3.99

YOUR HAIR
ASSISTANT
DEFINITION
MIST, 20.30

233

VOGUEbeauty
James Read a
self-confessed
skincare obsessive
is launching a
facial treatment at
Bliss Spa to prep
skin and close pores
for the best tan
application. James
Read Tan-tour
Sculpting Duo, 35

TANNING
TOUR OF
DUTY

Spray By Terrys Tea to

Tan Face & Body, 55,
was so popular last year
its been brought back.
Spray directly on, or
apply facially with your
hands. Just remember to
shake the bottle well.

Nars Laguna is the bronzer that suits

everyone, and now its in liquid form.
Weve been mixing it into our face
cream, but post-holiday well be
applying directly to prolong our tans.
Nars Liquid Laguna Bronzer, 26.50

THE TAN RETURNED TO THE CATWALK THIS

SEASON AND ACHIEVING ONE IS NOW EASIER
THAN EVER, SAYS LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH

anning expert James Read and contour) Sculpting Duo, 35, had
skincare-inspired luxury brand a waiting list of 25,000. It looks and
Tan-Luxe are changing the way feels like a make-up contouring palette,
we use self-tan. Tan-Luxes new but is also laced with fake tan, so use
Hydrating Self-Tan Water, 30, is a it two or three times a week and
fast-drying facial water with natural youll notice it staying on your skin
and
organic
active
(you may want to brush
ingredients that use your James Reads up on your contouring
own melanin and skintone
skills
first).
Finally,
big new
for the closest thing
natural-tanning company
to your own, naturalVita
Liberatas
new
fake-tan
looking tan. Similarly,
3 in 1 Marula Dry Oil Self
launch had Tan SPF 50, 39.95, is
James Reads H2O Tan
Mist, 20, came out of a waiting list for the unapologetically
his own observations: I
It will give
of 25,000 impatient.
noticed that when theyre
an instant colour but
on the beach, people only put their gradually builds a tan while also
bodies in the sun and keep their faces protecting you from the sun, and is
in the shade. With this you can spritz perfect for holidays.
your face, cool down and get a tan
Further proof that fake tan is set to
to match your body. His other big have a moment this year: tanning giant
new launch, the Tan-tour (as in St Tropez has rethought, repackaged

234

Guerlains Terracotta Bronzing

Powder, 36, now comes in
eight shades. From Clair
Blondes for very pale skin to
Intense for darker skin tones,
its the beauty insiders bronzer
of choice.

The newly
reformulated
St Tropez
Gradual Tan
Classic Everyday
Mousse, 25

Liz Earle
Sheer Skin
Tint Bronzing
Fluid, 24.50.
Combine with
foundation, or
use on its own
for a quick
glow ix.

and reformulated its entire range,

prioritising deeper, healthier-looking
glows and a solution to that distinctive
tanning smell. Theyve taken the
tanning agent DHA the ingredient
that releases that strong chemical
odour and rather than trying to mask
it, put it at the heart of the new
fragrance: By choosing notes that
work well with the DHA, its brought
into the fragrance and concealed; the
nose and brain cannot recognise it
says Dr Paul Evans, St Tropezs
technology and innovation director.
Revisit old favourites like the
Gradual Tan Classic Everyday
Mousse, 25; its air-whipped and
non-sticky, so its the best for self-tan
phobes. Also try the Gradual Tan
In Shower Lotion Golden Glow,
14.50, which launches in May, for
easy application and convenience. Q

MERT ALAS AND MARCUS PIGGOTT; PAUL BOWDEN

Back to the
BRONZE AGE

COLOURING BOOK
by Iain R Webb

ON SALE NOW
10 ISBN: 978-1840917215

VOGUEbeauty

A brave FACE
ENDURING THE AGONY OF HAVING A PREMATURE BABY, FUNMI FETTO
FOUND STRENGTH IN AN UNLIKELY PLACE: HER MAKE-UP BAG

TIM WALKER

here was a woman staring at me.

Her dark hair was thick and full
but coarse and unkempt. Her
skin was wrinkle-free but sported
what can only be described as a
peculiar vacuum-packed dehydration.
Her eyes were lifeless but also pleaded,
Help. She had no make-up on; she
looked terrible. This woman was me.
A couple of weeks earlier, I had given
birth to my son. That was not the plan.
I was only 28 weeks pregnant, but a
tumour on my placenta caused me to
go into labour early. Initially, my son
wasnt breathing. Once resuscitated,
he was admitted to intensive care,

weighing 3lb and too fragile to hold.

I was allowed to touch him only for
very short periods via the two circular
doors at the side of his incubator.
A few days after giving birth, I was
sent home without my son. I bawled
so hard big, gulping, noisy, wretched
sobs that my body shook with pain.
No one could say when we would be
able to take him home. Or if we would
take him home. (On the first day, we
were given a DVD on how to cope
with having a premature baby; it
included a section on what to do when
your baby dies. We never watched it.)
By week two, I was so overwhelmed by

the uncertainty surrounding me that

I grasped for something, anything, to
provide some semblance of normality.
As I caught sight of my frankly
shocking reflection that day, I suddenly
realised my face was an unlikely but
good even necessary place to start.
Initially, the thought of putting my
face on, as it were, felt well, wrong.
Make-up was a frivolity I should
reserve for happy times: discharge
day is when the mothers usually first
sport a full maquillage. Right now
it was disrespectful, blasphemous
almost, to adorn my ashen face with
colour like wearing a neon top to a >
239

funeral. Besides, at that point, the

concentration required to get my
Urban Decay eyeliner straight evaded
me. I hyperventilated while getting
ready in the morning and didnt stop
until I was in front of the incubator,
where I stayed, zombie-like, for more
or less the next 10 hours. The only
beauty routine I could eventually
hack involved spritzing my cleansed
face with Caudalies Beauty Elixir,
moisturising my body with Jo
Malones Oud and Bergamot Dry Oil,
and applying a slick of By Terry
Baume de Rose to my lips. I could
justify these as practicalities because
the air in the hospital wards could
dehydrate running water.
When my husbands compassionate
leave came to an end and I was to start
making the daily hospital journey on
my own, I was terrified but I didnt
want the world to know this. And
besides, at the risk of sounding horribly
vain, I was fed up with looking like
crap. So out came the war paint. The
first day, my hands shook with nerves
as I dotted Becca Ultimate Coverage
Complexion Crme across my face.
I was anxious about everything: why
on earth am I faffing around with a
Dior brush and Burberrys Rose Glow
blusher when I could be on my way to
the hospital? Does make-up make me
look too happy? Am I a bad parent
because I now look less worried? I felt
guilty. I began to well up, but then
I blotted it away quickly, remembering
that the mascara I wore (Guerlains
Cils dEnfer Maxi Lash) wasnt
waterproof. Also when it ran, it stung.

Funmi Fetto,
photographed
in 2014

The effects of my made-up face

were immediate: I felt more in
control a far cry from the broken
woman I had been days earlier
The effects of my made-up face
were surprisingly immediate: I felt
more confident, more in control, more
me This was a far cry from the
broken woman I had been just days
earlier. What was really startling,
however, was everyone elses reaction.
The neonatal receptionist who had
seen me almost every day in the
previous two weeks looked at me
questioningly and stopped me from
going farther. Hello, Lucy, I smiled.
Recognition dawned and she buzzed
me in. Sorry, my love, I didnt realise
it was you. When I walked towards
240

my sons incubator, one of the nurses

began hurrying in my direction.
Excuse me (hospital protocol
meant you were never allowed near
another childs incubator for fear of
cross infection). She apologised as she
came closer: Oh, Mummy (the
nurses never called parents by their
first names and every mother was
Mummy). You look so different.
One of my closest friends had been
away when I gave birth and visited for
the first time that week. As soon as
she saw me, the grave look on her face
disappeared. She was visibly relieved.
You look great, she said, almost
thankful. Thereafter, I noticed this
extraordinary reaction every time
someone visited. People were pacified
to see me looking normal. And so
I made an effort which also stopped
me from feeling miserable every time
I looked in the mirror.
There was also a turning point in
dealing with my sons consultants.
Up until then, every update they had
had with me had been akin to the
kind of exchange you would have with
someone on the verge of jumping off
a building. It was that guarded,
slow, deliberate dialogue, careful not
to aggravate, alarm, make any sudden
movements I remember the critical
moment one doctor noticed my new
look. He made no comment but,
thereafter, the manner in which we
spoke changed. I was no longer
patronised or brushed off with

medical jargon. I was taken seriously

and treated like an equal. Rather than
simply staring, eyes shiny with tears,
nodding like a puppet, I began to ask
pointed questions. I no longer felt
intimidated by the medical terms in
my sons bulging file which I
requested to see. Whatever I didnt
understand or agree with, I researched
or got a second opinion about. Who
knew you could hold a different kind
of conversation just by running a
brush through your hair and putting
on Macs Ruby Woo?
It was arguably this lipstick that
many of the other mothers took issue
with. Mainly veterans who had
been on the ward before my arrival
and wore their battle scars defiantly
(furrowed brows, worry lines and
definitely no make-up), they viewed
me with suspicion. Their disapproval
was mostly unspoken but one woman
couldnt help herself. Gosh, you
actually have time to do your make-up
all I can think of in the morning
is getting in to see my child, she
said incredulously.
A few weeks ago her backhanded
compliment would have bothered me,
but not now. The notion that beauty
products and paraphernalia could
provide comfort in the darkest of
situations was no longer ridiculous to
me. I felt more together; I could sing
or read to my son without my lips
quivering and my reflection no longer
freaked me out Of course there
were dark moments such as when
my son inexplicably caught a serious
infection and suddenly, after weeks
of improvement, his life hung in
the balance. (I cried so intensely I
struggled to breathe.)
Most days, however, I wasnt an
emotional wreck, and so despite my
red lips, many of the sans-make-up
mafia came to accept and befriend
me, even leaning on me on difficult
days. Id like to think they realised
my made-up face was ultimately a
coping mechanism.
I was finally allowed to go home
with my son, Silas, three months after
I gave birth. I remembered my earlier
thoughts about make-up being a
frivolity that should be reserved for
happy times. But ironically, on this
day, one of the happiest of my life,
I didnt wear any. I didnt feel the need
to. Besides, no amount of make-up
could have replicated the beauty of
my unadulterated joy.
Q

MICHAEL TROW

VOGUEbeauty

ROLAND MOURET

VOGUEbeauty

ESTEE LAUDER
ADVANCED NIGHT
REPAIR, 70

EVENING STAR

ESTEE LAUDER
ADVANCED
NIGHT MICRO
CLEANSING
FOAM, 23.50
ESTEE LAUDER
ADVANCED
NIGHT MICRO
CLEANSING
BALM, 36

Este Lauder Advanced Night Repair

probably wins more beauty awards than
any other product on the planet. And
rightly: its still hands down one of the
best daily anti-ageing products you can
buy. Now, to celebrate its 25th birthday,
the range has been expanded to include
a Micro Cleansing Foam, a Cleansing
Balm and a Sheet Mask with a
clever foil backing (so the
masks ingredients are
absorbed 25 times faster
than with a regular one).
The mask is our hero
product: its like a weeks
worth of serum in one hit. NM

Beauty UPDATE
WHAT TO TRY AND WHAT TO BUY THIS MONTH
Left: Ludmila
and Antoine
Bitar, the
husband-andwife team
behind Ideo
Parfumeurs

MAC
VERSICOLOUR
GLOSS & STAIN
IN RESILIENT
ROUGE, 18

LIP SYNC
You would think that a lip gloss and stain in
one would be a contradiction in terms, but
these new products promise just that: shine
and lasting colour. LW
BOURJOIS
ROUGE EDITION
SOUFFLE DE VELVET IN
ORANGELIQUE, 8.99

TOM FORD
PATENT FINISH
LIP COLOR IN
INFAMY, 38

LANCOME
JUICY SHAKER IN
WALK THE LINE, 18

CHEMICAL ROMANCE
ith two husband-and-wife scent brands
arriving in Britain this month, it seems
the couple that sprays together, stays
together. The duo responsible for Ideo, Antoine
and Ludmila Bitar (hes the marketeer, shes the
perfumer), met in Paris but now live in Antoines
native Beirut, creating scents amid an evocative
mix of cultures. Paris Fontainebleau and London
to Mumbai (145 each, at Liberty) are standouts.
Brooklyn couple David Seth Moltz and his
wife are behind DS & Durga. A former musician,
perfumer Moltz is inspired by anything from
Stravinsky to Rod Stewart. Burning Barbershop
(98, at Roullierwhite.com) is our favourite. NM

Clarinss first foray into a bespoke approach to skincare came two years
ago, with tanning drops you could add to your face cream. That quickly
became a bestseller, and a body version soon followed. Now the brand
has expanded its tailor-made approach with a line-up of three skin
shots (30 each), a few drops of which can be added to your existing
skincare in a variety of ways, from energising to skin detoxing to
repairing. Ive been trialling the energy one for three months now
and Im seriously impressed. A good option when youre happy with
your skincare but wouldnt mind turbo-charging its results. NM
242

JASON LLOYD-EVANS; PAUL BOWDEN

THE GOLDEN SHOT

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244

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A superyacht is designed to shimmer with presence. Viewed from afar, it is
charged with magnetic appeal. Onboard, it assures splendid sanctuary.
For your introduction to superyacht living, contact Cecil Wright
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Contact Chris Cecil-Wright: chris@cecilwright.com

cecilwright.com

Elevated London living built on a reputation of excellence

he Penthouse Collection, Prices on Application

Chelsea Creek Show Apartments and Marketing Suite

9 Park Street, Chelsea Creek, London SW6 2FS
020 8003 6691
sales@chelseacreek.co.uk | www.chelseacreek.co.uk

Proud to be a member of
the Berkeley Group of companies

Computer generated image is indicative only.

condenastjohansens.com
Chteau Htel Andr Ziltener, France

3523(57< 352027,21

East London loft apartment, on

sale through Savills Shoreditch;
guide price 1.75 million

Facing the headwinds

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For many, owning a country retreat and a
home in the city is the ideal. Also high on the
agenda is the ability to purchase a buy-to-let
property as a safe haven for cash and as
forward planning for children. But the recent
increases to stamp duty on second properties
have made this more traditional investment
route appear fraught with problems and
expense. Added to this is the spectre of an
upwards shift in interest rates and an imminent referendum on Europe.
But it does not have to be all doom and
gloom. This change in stamp duty will
undoubtedly have an impact but, by
empowering those with a real need to buy
over more discretionary buy-to-let investors,
it should give some much-needed balance
to a market that has become increasingly
polarised, says James Watts, a buying agent
at one of the UKs largest buying agencies,
Prime Purchase.
While this could be an unexpected positive,
what it does mean is that having the best
advice to make the right purchase is ever
more salient. Were here to be the experts,
but also the voice of reason, says Lindsey
Webb, a buying agent in the London office.
Its easy to make an emotional decision
when youre looking for a new home, but we

offer objective advice, based on years of

experience in our respective markets.
Engaging a buying agent can be a vital
tool in levelling the playing field between
buyer and seller, but where Prime Purchase
excels is having a team that can move seamlessly between the various nuances of a family
search. With teams in London and the country,
they offer a wide geographic coverage and
knowledge base taking in everything from
the estate with shoot, the commuter-belt home
and chocolate-box cottage, to the investment
flat in an up-and-coming area or the perfect
pied--terre next to the best restaurants. They
work together with clients over months and
even years especially as a familys needs
grow and change always working to ensure
that the investment is as sound as possible.
The ability to move fluidly between
markets has become a common need for
our clients, says James Shaw, who is based in
the Chilterns. In an industry that depends so
much on trust, our capacity to offer good
advice and to seek best in class across different
parts of the country means we can effectively
provide a service for life.
For further information call 020 7881 2388
or visit www.prime-purchase.com

For sale through Savills Henley;

guide price 5.25 million

CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW

Prime Purchases
Lindsey Webb, James
Shaw and James Watts.
ABOVE Yewden Lodge,
Hambledon

LONDON
On your doorstep...
Lets grab brunch
Live close to our favourite brunch locations

The wishlist
Londons most sought after properties

We speak to Wendy Prez

Knight Franks complimentary rental home search

Advertisement Feature

Welcome to
LONDON VIEW
Cosmopolitan and cultured, historic and
contemporary, London offers endless
variety and is always changing. Much the
same can also be said about the Capitals
fascinating and evolving property market.

Advertisement Feature | 2

Prime Central London, which in recent years has had strong price growth,
has seen only small rises and even some small falls in the year end to
January 2016. Meanwhile newly fashionable areas in the east of the
Capital, such as the City & City Fringe and Islington have enjoyed stronger
growth at 7.5% and 7.7% respectively, though this is less than recent years.
The volatile nature of global financial markets so far this year, has given
some buyers pause for thought, yet there has also been evidence of
added impetus from buyers looking to buy ahead of the stamp duty changes
this April. Similarly, rental growth has levelled off with moderate 1% to 2%
increases in the year end to January 2016, as more tenants let for longer or
relocate outside the Capital.
Longer term however, rental demand is robust as the number of households
renting in the private sector in London, has doubled over the last ten years.
In the new development arena, new apartments and homes offering a
high standard of amenities, including concierge services and gyms, are
always popular and Knight Frank has both sales and lettings offices in key
developments such as One Tower Bridge, Goodmans Fields and
The Plimsoll Building in Kings Cross.
Overall, the picture for the year ahead is one of stability with small but
steady increases, as the capitals property market changes. Just like
London, in fact.
With Spring upon us, its fitting that this issue looks at an assortment of
superb roof terraces and popular local weekend eateries within the Capital.
We also introduce you to our tailored home search service and showcase a
selection of our finest properties.
Noel Flint, Partner, Head of London Sales
Tim Hyatt, Partner, Head of London Lettings

Contents
04

On top of the world

06

The wishlist

08

On your doorstep

10

We speak to Wendy Prez

Exclusive roof terraces

Londons most sought after properties

Lets grab brunch

Knight Franks complimentary rental home search

Advertisement Feature | 3

On top of the world

Hidden away from inquisitive eyes, Londons roof terraces are a secret world
where the lucky few can soak up the views and the sunshine at their leisure.

In a city as densely populated as ours,

theyre the perfect space to relax and entertain,
and with the summer not too far away, a private
terrace is also a selling feature thats really
coming into its own.
When the fickle English London weather
allows, the roof terrace adds another room
to your home one where you can fire up a
barbecue for the family, throw a party or
simply enjoy a sundowner after a long day
at the office.
Like the homes theyre perched atop,
many terraces are wired for sound and boast
sophisticated mood lighting. Add some
planting and even a patch of grass if you have
the space the synthetic version is now a dead
ringer for the real thing and you have yourself
a fully-fledged roof garden.

If the square footage stretches to it, you

can also consider additions such as an
outdoor kitchen and well-stocked bar, making
the terrace feel like an extension of the home.
For those who dont mind sharing, Londons
modern developments often give residents
access to a luxuriously appointed communal
roof terrace. Reaching ever higher, they
provide some of the best panoramas to be had
anywhere in the Capital.
River views are particularly prized, along
with terraces that look out onto the royal
parks. But any kind of outlook is a wonderful
thing even if your vista is a sea of rooftops,
its still an uplifting sight and one thats
quintessentially London.

When the English

weather allows,
the roof terrace
adds another room
to your home

Stanhope Terrace

St Johns Building

Bedford Gardens

Cadogan Place

Guide price: 3,450 per week

Knight Frank Hyde Park, lettings
+44 20 3463 0241

Guide price: 3,975,000

Knight Frank Belgravia, sales
+44 20 3463 0295

Guide price: 1,395 per week

Knight Frank Kensington, lettings
+44 20 3463 0303

Guide price: 4,350,000

Knight Frank Knightsbridge, sales
+44 20 3463 0234

Advertisement Feature | 4

(2)

(1)

(4)

(3)

Advertisement Feature | 5

LE T TINGS

OAKLEY STREET | Guide price: 725 per week

ARKWRIGHT ROAD | Guide price: 375 per week

2

Knight Frank Chelsea, +44 20 3463 0150

Knight Frank Hampstead, +44 20 3463 0225

STUDIO

wishlist

THE PLIMSOLL BUILDING | Guide price: 800 per week

Knight Frank Kings Cross, +44 20 3589 2840

GLOUCESTER PLACE | Guide price: 725 per week

2

RANDOLPH CRESCENT | Guide price: 750 per week

Knight Frank St Johns Wood, +44 20 3463 0228
Advertisement Feature | 6

Knight Frank Marylebone, +44 20 3328 6537

OAKHILL ROAD | Guide price: 580 per week

2

Knight Frank Wimbledon, +44 20 3463 0384

SALE S

PICTON PLACE | Guide price: 950,000

WELMAR MEWS | Guide price: 1,400,000

3

Knight Frank Clapham, +44 20 3463 0074

Knight Frank Marylebone, +44 20 3328 6536

A hand-picked selection of beautiful properties available

this Spring for sale and to let across the Capital

SELWYN AVENUE | Guide price: 1,800,000

CHEPSTOW CRESCENT | Guide price: 1,200,000

Knight Frank Notting Hill, +44 20 3463 0126

HIRST COURT | Guide price: 1,985,000

COURTFIELD GARDENS | Guide price: 2,100,000

Knight Frank South Kensington, +44 20 3463 0238

Knight Frank Richmond, +44 20 3463 0331

Knight Frank Riverside, +44 20 3328 6542

Advertisement Feature | 7

On your doorstep...
lets grab brunch!

(2)

(1)

WEST INDIA QUAY | Guide price: 970 per week

Knight Frank Canary Wharf, lettings +44 20 3463 0232

One Canada Square

No. 1 Canada Square
Canary Wharf E14 5AB

Plateau
4th Floor, Canada Square
Canary Wharf E14 5ER

Delights such as soft shell crab Benedict or avocado and chilli toast
with smoked bacon will have taste buds tingling. There are endless
Bloody Marys, Prosecco or Mimosas to indulge in at this iconic
restaurant in the heart of Canary Wharf.

Advertisement Feature | 8

Overlooking Canada Square, this is brunch with a twist of Manhattan.

The dining room is modern and light-filled with a menu that allows for
brunch to turn into lunch, and the Prosecco is free-flowing.

One of the benefits of living in London is that, whichever postcode you call
home, youll almost certainly have a generous helping of fantastic brunch
spots right around the corner

(4)

(3)

CARRINGTON HOUSE | Guide price: 1,450,000

Knight Frank Mayfair, sales +44 20 3463 0229

34 Mayfair
34 Grosvenor Square
Mayfair W1K 2HD

Mews of Mayfair
10 Lancashire Ct
Mayfair W1S 1EY

34 Mayfair has become a modern-day classic since it opened five

years ago. Weekend brunch is a welcome addition to their delicious
menu - look out for dishes such as the lobster Thermidor omelette,
crab & grilled asparagus frittatas or the southern fried chicken
coleslaw sandwich.

Quietly nestled away down a mews close to Bond Street, the Sunday
Roast & Toast menu offers bottomless Bloody Marys, Bellinis and
Mimosas paired with modern and delightful dishes in a chic and
timeless setting.

Advertisement Feature | 9

Complimentary
home search
From Beaconsfield to Belgravia, Wendy Prez offers a
tailored home search to clients looking for a new rental home
throughout the Capital and the Home Counties.

Finding a new home is never easy and this is

especially true in the fast paced London lettings
market. Knight Franks Residential Corporate
Services team, led by Wendy Prez, offers a
complimentary home search service to assist
people moving into rental accommodation
within London and the Home Counties, along
with helping clients relocate from abroad.
The home search service provides a single
point of contact throughout the process. Upon
receiving a brief, a dedicated account executive
carries out research and does all of the legwork
including working with other agents so the
client doesnt have to, says Wendy. This gives
our clients access to the larger London market,
without the work of dealing with multiple agents.

Advertisement Feature | 10

The team also accompany and transport

clients to viewings, as well as offer support
and advice. We can help clients with
the difficulties of moving to a new area,
from choosing a neighbourhood close
to a specific school, figuring out the best
commute or deciding between an urban
or suburban location, Wendy says.
With over 30 branches across London
and the Home Counties, Knight Frank has
unrivalled local knowledge of the entire
rental market, whether it is a one bedroom
apartment in Islington, a family home in
Cobham or a luxury penthouse in Mayfair.
WENDY PEREZ
Knight Frank Residential Corporate Services
+44 20 8022 6171
wendy.perez@knightfrank.com

Our goal is to help

our clients find a
home - not just a
place to live - and the
best part is that it
is complimentary

Advertisement Feature | 11

KnightFrank.com/londonview
+44 20 8022 6171

Important Notice
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1UIOQVMTQ^QVOQVIOI[PWTLMZ

Wilkinson Eyres design

for Gasholders is a feat
of engineering

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THE WORLDS LEADING

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mindsEYE
MARTINO
GAMPER
SCREEN AT
NILUFAR
GALLERY,
MILAN

I love
buying my wife,
Thelma Golden,
vintage jewellery by
Andrew Grima and
Catherine Noll. This
new limited-edition
ring is a current
favourite

Les
Couilles du
Chien antiques on
Golborne Road has
been my favourite
London shop for
15 years

ELIANE FATTAL
FOR SJ PHILLIPS
ENAMEL, GOLD AND
DIAMOND RING, 6,900,
AT DURO OLOWU

Duro Olowu
THE DESIGNER REVEALS
WHATS INSPIRING HIM NOW

TURNBULL & ASSER

SILK SCARF, 150

VINTAGE
PHOTOGRAPH,
FROM JACK BELL
GALLERY, SW1

This
amazing 1962
photo by Hamidou
Maiga is in my
Masons Yard
boutique

NEW & LINGWOOD

LEATHER LOAFERS, 395

DURO OLOWU
SILK-GEORGETTE
DRESS, 1,098

Xenomania
in New York
has an incredible
selection of antique
textiles. The owner is
one of the chicest
women I know

NOTES OF
A NATIVE
SON , BY
JAMES
BALDWIN
(BEACON,
13.50)

VINTAGE TRIBAL
PENDANT, 285,
XENO-MANIA.COM

Honey & Co
in Fitzrovia an
unbelievably delicious
take on Middle
Eastern food in
a tiny inviting
space

COMPILED BY NAOMI SMART. UZOAMAKA MADUKA; PIXELATE.BIZ;

HAMIDOU MAIGA COURTESY JACK BELL GALLERY

LONDON IS THE
PLACE FOR ME 2
(HONEST JONS, 12)

Being a
vinyl junkie,
I am lucky to live
down the road from
Honest Jons amazing
record shop on
Portobello

yslbeauty.com

Live the night experience

at yslblackopium.com

Edie Campbell

THE NEW

EAU DE PARFUM

PLEASE TURN THE PAGE TO VIEW SUPPLEMENT

MAY 2016

297
SUN-KISSED
FASHION STEALS

JEAN
CAMPBELL

Meet the
new Brit
beauty

HOT DESKING
Shop workwears
new cool
HOW TO
HEATPROOF
YOUR
MAKE-UP

WHAT TO
WANT
NOW
Inspired summer shopping

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

VOGUE PROMOTION

On the rocks
with a twist: smart
tailoring in neutral
shades strikes a
timeless chord of
simplicity easy,
elegant and perfect
for every day
Ribbed top, 12. Denim
shorts, 25. Belt, 12.
Sandals, 35. All Next

QUENTIN DE BRIEY

YOUR ULTIMATE SUMMER SHOPPING GUIDE

WHOS YOUR
EYEWEAR
ICON?
Page 29

TAKING THE
TRENDS TO
WORK
Page 2

WHAT TO WANT
BRIGHT
SPARK: JEAN
CAMPBELL
Page 18

STYLE
DESTINATIONS
Page 16

PRE-HOLIDAY
PAMPERING
Page 44

NOW

Welcome to a summer of style highs. This is the

moment when fashion soars (literally) as we
embrace new trends to take on holiday, bare a
little more (well-prepped) skin, and refresh our
summertime staples.
One of Vogues favourite rising stars, British
model Jean Campbell, heads up the adventurous
new mood. We cant get enough of her luminous
beauty electrifying in this seasons off-duty
designs. Theres a new note of cool to the working
wardrobe, too, as clever colour combinations,
sculptural shirting and prettified details bring
your style personality to the fore.
Over the following pages weve crafted a
sun-drenched wish list from the nextgeneration floral dress (your summer wedding
go-to), to the ultimate swimwear directory.
Heres to a glorious summer

BLACK
MAGIC
Page 41
NATURALLY
BRILLIANT
Page 8

AIRPORT
CATWALK
Page 26

EDITOR JULIA HOBBS ART DIRECTOR WENDY TEE CHIEF SUB-EDITOR LUCY OLIVIER MERCHANDISE EDITOR HELEN HIBBIRD
PICTURE COORDINATOR BROOKE MACE FASHION ASSISTANT TASHA ARGUILE CONTRIBUTORS NAOMI SMART, LOTTIE WINTER
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ALEXANDRA SHULMAN
PHOTOGRAPHERS PAUL BOWDEN, REGAN CAMERON, JAMES COCHRANE, PATRICK DEMARCHELIER, DREAMSTIME, ARTHUR ELGORT, ROBERT ERDMANN,
GETTY, JASON LLOYD-EVANS, ALASDAIR M C LELLAN, PIXELATE.BIZ, RETNA, REX FEATURES, SHUTTERSTOCK, SPLASH, CARTER SMITH, TIM WALKER, XPOSURE
COVER PHOTOGRAPH RORY PAYNE FASHION EDITOR VERITY PARKER HAIR NAOKI KOMIYA MAKE-UP LUCY BURT
NAILS LYNDSAY M C INTOSH. DIGITAL ARTWORK HEMPSTEAD MAY
ON THE COVER JEAN CAMPBELL WEARS DENIM JACKET, 30. LUREX KNIT VEST, 30. COTTON JEANS, 35. ALL NEXT.
WHITE BRA TOP, 28, CALVIN KLEIN UNDERWEAR, AT LABELONLINE.CO.UK

2016 The Cond Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. Printed by the proprietors, The Cond Nast Publications Ltd.
Vogue is distributed by Cond Nast and National Magazines Distributors Ltd (COMAG), Tavistock Road, West Drayton, Middlesex UB7 7QE. All rights reserved.
Reproduction in whole or in part, without written permission, is strictly prohibited. Not for resale

Rewrite
your
STYLE CV
THERES NOW NO SUCH THING AS A TYPICAL
NINE-TO-FIVE. THE GOOD NEWS? OUR ROUND-THECLOCK SCHEDULES ARE INSPIRING NEW STYLE
FREEDOMS. HERE, THREE SUCCESSFUL WOMEN TRY
OUT A TRIO OF HARD-WORKING TRENDS

LEON MAX
LINEN/COTTON
TROUSERS, 150

SELECT RIBBED
TURTLENECK, 8

THEORY
LEATHER BELT
BAG, 205

NEXT
FAUX-SUEDE
HEELS, 35

Crpe jumpsuit,
199, Karen Millen.
Woven leather flats,
45, Next. Jewellery,
throughout,
Georgies own.
Photographer:
Nicholas Seaton.
Hair: Dora Roberti.
Make-up: Sarah
Mierau. Sittings
editor: Julia Hobbs

VOGUElooks
Elevate an
uncomplicated
silhouette with
audacious shots
of rich colour

Georgie Williams, plastic surgery registrar

Above left:
sleeveless polo
shirt, 150, Jaeger.
Belted wool
trousers, 118,
J Crew. Leather
heels, 250,
LK Bennett.
Above right:
sweater, 40. Suede
heels, 60. Both
Mango. Leather
skirt, 125, Preen
Edition, at
Debenhams

2NDDAY
VISCOSE
DRESS, 200

DESCRIBE YOUR WEEKDAY STYLE

CATWALK INSPIRATION

When Im not in surgery I love to experiment

with colour.

Anything from Roksanda

to Chanel Couture.

SUMMER WORKWEAR ESSENTIAL

HEELS OR FLATS FOR WORK

Sharp Joseph trousers and bright, tailored

Max Mara dresses.

Heels are beginning to creep into

my daily wardrobe.

FAVOURITE ACCESSORY

EVENING UPDATE

My Chanel ballet flats they come courtesy

of my stylish mother, not my NHS salary.

A quick spritz of dry shampoo to combat

surgical-hat hair.

CAMPER
SANDALS, 125

STYLE NOTES
BIMBA & LOLA
RIBBED TUNIC, 215

PAINTBOX BRIGHTS

1. Sporty, block-colour stripes

dial down the glamour of a
bodycon dress for day.
2. Strike a balance: play off
an intense shot of citrus with
tonal separates in subtle
earth tones.
3. Crisp tailoring creates a
formal framework for vivid
primary hues.

BA&SH
JERSEY SKIRT, 160

4. Trade disorderedly prints

for the self-assured clarity of
block colours.

BENETTON
DRAWSTRING
BAG, 27

5. Jump-start a daytime
look: athletic accessories
re-energise practical staples.

STYLE TIPS
LIMITED EDITION
GEORGETTE DRESS,
45, AT MARKS & SPENCER
CLAUDIE PIERLOT
COTTON BLOUSE, 175

1. Soft shades enjoy a

new grown-up attitude.
Embrace tailored pastels
and whimsical prints.
2. The knife-pleat skirt has
endless day-to-night mileage;
add it to your shopping list now.
3. Look to antique details:
burnished metallics, lacy
Victoriana and ladylike florals.

ALDO
NUBUCK
HEELS, 70

4. Make the embellished

sweater your decorative
daytime statement.
5. Keep accessories simple;
upholstery fabrics and
opulent finishes are all the
ornamentation you need.

ANTIQUE MODERN

GAP
COTTON
SHORTS, 25

Anna Hussain,

BROOKS BROTHERS
EMBROIDERED COTTON
SWEATER, 285

fundraiser for the RNIB

DESCRIBE YOUR WEEKDAY STYLE

Vintage-inspired, polished, feminine.

SUMMER WORKWEAR ESSENTIAL

A cotton blouse with a crisp collar is my

fail-safe it works under a dress and adds a
ladylike edge to tailoring.
FAVOURITE ACCESSORY

A handbag large enough to carry my bottle

of LHeure Bleue by Guerlain. At the moment
Im carrying a Marc by Marc Jacobs style.
CATWALK INSPIRATION

Guccis decorated knitwear.

HEELS OR FLATS FOR WORK

Heels, but nothing vampish I love low

block styles.
EVENING UPDATE

A slick of Mac Ruby Woo scarlet lipstick

always does the trick.

VALLEY OF THE DOLLS

COTTON-MIX SKIRT, 45,
AT JOYTHESTORE.COM

VOGUElooks
Rippling pleats,
metallic shimmer,
painterly florals...
This seasons gilded
style ingredients

JOUBI
ZIRCONIA AND
GOLD-PLATED
EARRINGS, 45

CH CAROLINA HERRERA
BROCADE TOP, 290

JAEGER
BLACK POLO
SHIRT, 110

MONSOON
STRIPED SATIN
DRESS, 109

This page: floral

blouse, 14, Matalan.
Pleated skirt, 45,
Topshop. Leather belt,
25, & Other Stories.
Nubuck heels, 48,
Office. Opposite, top
left: cashmere
cardigan, 295, Brora.
Tailored trousers, 35,
Next. Opposite, bottom
left: silk pyjama shirt,
265, as part of set,
Yolke. Pleated skirt,
26, Zara. Leather belt,
25, & Other Stories.
Leather heels, 225,
LK Bennett

CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL COMPANY

LEATHER SADDLE BAG, 110

RUSSELL & BROMLEY

LEATHER FLATS, 185

THEORY
COTTON
SHIRT, 210

Mix and match

fresh stripes
in tonal hues
for summers
new take on
masculine
tailoring

DSQUARED2
DROP EARRINGS, 145

PARED-DOWN POLISH

APC
CANVAS
COAT, 355

VERY.CO.UK
CLUTCH, 22

This page: cotton

shirt, 59.50, Boden.
Striped trousers, 38.
Leather heels, 48.
Both Next. Hoop
earrings, 10, Zara.
Opposite, top right:
shirtdress, 65, Finery
London. Faux-leather
flats, 28, Next.
Silver earrings, 140.
Silver bangle, 220.
Silver cuff, 255.
All Eddie Borgo.
Opposite, bottom
right: wool blazer,
265. Matching
shorts, 110. Both
Reiss. Cotton
sweater, 20, H&M

VOGUElooks
Daisy Payne, co-founder of raw dessert company The Hardihood
DESCRIBE YOUR WEEKDAY STYLE

FAVOURITE ACCESSORY

I focus on simple, boyish separates. When

I cook its all about trainers and cashmere
sweaters; for meetings I opt for tailoring
and neat brogues.

Sculptural earrings add a note of elegance.

SUMMER WORKWEAR ESSENTIAL

Mostly flats. I spend a lot of time on my feet.

An effortless masculine shirt in pale blue or

classic white.

EVENING UPDATE

CATWALK INSPIRATION

I love Clines minimal look.

HEELS OR FLATS FOR WORK

I remove my apron!

& OTHER STORIES

PATENT-LEATHER
LACE-UPS, 125

SIDELINE
COTTON
SHIRT, 150

STYLE NOTES
1. Step up your shirting:
peplum details, chambray
trims and shirtdresses lend a
fresh twist to classic cottons.

BERSHKA
CHOKER, 8

2. Set aside black trousers;

the shorts suit is tailorings
playful new guise.
3. Confident accessories
add lustre to minimalist
staples think platform
brogues, statement earrings
or a heavyweight chain.

ACCESSORIZE
EARRINGS, 6

4. Balance understated
androgyny with the uptown
polish of a leather skirt.
5. Muted shades of
stone, taupe and grey
underscore the
pared-down mood.

MISS SELFRIDGE
LEATHER TRENCH
COAT, 175

AUTOGRAPH
LEATHER SKIRT,
129, AT MARKS
& SPENCER

WHISTLES
SILK-MIX
TOP, 120

FURLA
LEATHER
TOTE, 325

ZARA
LEATHER
HEELS, 70

VOGUEshops
RAFFIA CLUTCH, 175, SANAYI 313, AT
MATCHESFASHION.COM. STRAW TOTE,
125, J CREW. CANVAS AND WOVEN
RAFFIA SNEAKERS, 28, NEXT.
FAUX-LEATHER MULES, 58, OFFICE

Super NATURAL
BRING THE BEACH WITH YOU: SUNBLEACHED STRAW,
WOVEN LEATHER AND SWISHING FRONDS OF RAFFIA LEND
CASTAWAY CHARM TO HIGH-SUMMER STYLING
8

VOGUEshops

MANGO
FAUX-LEATHER, 40

KIPLING
NYLON, 89

LACOSTE
PVC, 110

Practical

MAGIC
The rugged counterpoint
to this seasons featherlight
dresses, summers
rucksacks enjoy a stylish
upgrade, proving practical
neednt spell plain.
Haute hiking, anyone?
H&M
CANVAS, 60

NEW LOOK
FAUX-LEATHER, 16

ASOS.COM
PVC, 20

THE BRIDGE
LEATHER, 338, AT HARRODS

SKAGEN
CANVAS AND LEATHER, 219

SANCHITA
PONYSKIN, 189,
AT AVENUE32.COM

VANESSA
BRUNO
SUEDE AND
RAFFIA, 295

SAM EDELMAN
SUEDE AND
LEATHER, FROM 70

Handicraft
Artisan sandals,
decorated with tassels,
pompoms and patchwork,
bring boho back to
fashions fore.

FIGUE
LEATHER, 111,
AT MATCHES
FASHION.COM

ALDO
LEATHER, 45

Low RIDERS
Fashion is favouriting the flat this summer. From ghillie shoes and gladiators
to flipflops and flatforms, heres the lowdown on the sandals to wear now

SAINT LAURENT
BY HEDI SLIMANE
LEATHER, 315

SOPHIA WEBSTER
LEATHER, 140
NEW LOOK
FAUX LEATHER, 20
ZARA
LEATHER, 40

Espadrilles
The summer classic enjoys new
edge in leather, leopard print
or seafaring stripes. On the
beach, at the office... Make it
your go-anywhere go-to.

OSCAR DE
LA RENTA
SUEDE, 330

NEXT
RAFFIA, 45
MANEBI
PONYSKIN,
FROM 115

MISS KG
RICKRACK, 40

10

VOGUEshops
WHISTLES
LEATHER, 165
CLOVER CANYON
SATIN, FROM 250
HILFIGER
COLLECTION
DENIM, 310

BIMBA & LOLA

SUEDE, 145
DUNE
LEATHER, 110

MANGO
LEATHER, 60

Chunky
Plump for a bold new
attitude. Chunky soles add
modern grit to a sweet
floral shift or mellow
suiting. Fearless summer
style starts here.

ALLSAINTS
ROPE, 248

NEXT
LEATHER, 30

ZIMMERMANN
LEATHER, 245

ALVARO
LEATHER, 335, AT
MATCHESFASHION.COM
ZADIG &
VOLTAIRE
LEATHER, 175

Tie-ups
Ancient meets modern in
these laced ghillie shoes
and rustic Grecian styles,
perfect for pairing with a
billowing Chlo maxi.

ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS

WOVEN SUEDE, 355

WAREHOUSE
LEATHER, 20

VOGUEstyle

MISS SIXTY
EMBELLISHED
DENIM TOP, 85

THE INSIDER INSTA

Eco-hotel Es Rams
emerald cove on
Formenteras
south shore.
Esramresort.com

CHIARA FERRAGNI
LEATHER AND GLITTER
HI-TOPS, 281

ROBERTO CAVALLI
SILVER BRACELET, 140
URBAN EARS
BLUETOOTH
HEADPHONES, 99

RODARTE &
OTHER STORIES
SEQUINED WRAP
TOP, 125

BEDOUIN
JACQUARD
BOMBER
JACKET, 225

ISABEL MARANT
COATED-COTTON
MINISKIRT, 250
NEXT
MAKE ME
BEAUTIFUL NAIL
POLISH IN
SILVER STAR, 10
AS PART OF SET

ISABEL MARANT

DODO
SAPPHIRE EAR STUD,
270. ROSE-GOLD
MOON STUD, 110

SONIA BY
SONIA RYKIEL
LUREX DRESS, 385
PILY Q
REVERSIBLE
BIKINI, 192, AT
BEACHCAFE.COM
GLAMOROUS
CROCHET TOP, 26

12

SEE BY CHLOE
CROCHET DRESS,
255, AT NET-APORTER.COM

NEXT
EMBELLISHED
SHIRT, 36

J BRAND
DENIM SHORTS,
155, AT SELFRIDGES

LOMOGRAPHY
INSTANT CAMERA, 129

BALEARIC
BEAT

Earthy bohemia, embellished with a dusting of

danceloor glitter: the Ibiza wardrobe boasts the
same blissed-out glamour as the White Isle itself

LA SPACE
KNITTED PONCHO, 119,
AT BEACHCAFE.COM

CHLOE

CLAUDIE
PIERLOT
CROCHET
VEST, 175

ASOS.COM
STRIPED
MINISKIRT, 28

PENELOPE CHILVERS
SUEDE CLOGS, 169

ZOE KARSSEN
COTTON SHORTS, 130

DIESEL
RUCKSACK, 105

13

LISA MARIE
FERNANDEZ
SWIMSUIT, 340

NEXT
COTTON
SWEATER, 18

GLAMOROUS
DENIM SHORTS, 30

PEPE JEANS
DENIM JACKET, 90

CTE dallure
Matelot stripes, Bardot-esque gingham and timeless
details in summery straw... Theres an old-school
charm to Riviera chic that never fails to beguile

CLAUDIE
PIERLOT
SMOCKED
COTTON
TOP, 135

FRAME
COTTON T-SHIRT,
107, AT HARVEY
NICHOLS
SACHAJUAN
OCEAN MIST
VOLUME
SHAMPOO, 19

NEW LOOK
CANVAS
ESPADRILLES, 13

F&F
COTTON
SHORTS, 16

MAX MARA

SUPERGA
CANVAS
SNEAKERS, 55

WAREHOUSE
COTTON-MIX
SUNDRESS, 49

VOGUEstyle
SIDELINE
COTTON
SHORTS,
135

FOREVER 21
COTTON TOP, 6

NUXE
HUILE
PRODIGIEUSE
DRY OIL, 28

SEAFARER
LINEN SAILOR
SHIRT, FROM 210

MELISSA ODABASH
BIKINI, 182
HUNTER ORIGINAL
CAGOULE, 160
NEXT
LINEN/COTTON
SHORTS, 14

THE ARTY INSTA

Alexander Calders
poolside sculpture at
La Colombe dOr in
Saint Paul de Vence.
La-colombe-dor.com

PLUMO
EMBELLISHED
STRAW TOTE, 95

J JS LEE

MICHAEL
MICHAEL KORS
SEERSUCKER
DRESS, 140

BOOHOO.COM
GINGHAM BRA
TOP, 12

EUGENIA KIM
SEQUINED STRAW
HAT, 349, AT
BEACHCAFE.COM

CHANTECAILLE
CHEEK
GELEE, 33

VOGUEstyle
MRS WHITES
UNSTUNG HERO
MOSQUITO
REPELLANT, 20

BOOHOO.COM
SATIN JACKET, 25
BODEN
COTTON
SKIRT, 44.50

LEON MAX
COTTON-MIX
DRESS, 325

MAJE
COATED MESH
SKIRT, 175

THE LUXE INSTA

The view over the
Masai Mara from
Cottars Bush
Villa in Kenya.
Cottars.com

MASSIMO DUTTI
LEATHER SANDALS, 70

FRAME
LINEN SHIRT,
195, AT
TRILOGY
BOTTEGA VENETA

NEXT WOVEN CLUTCH, 34

ZARA
COTTON
TROUSERS,
26
MANGO
BEADED
NECKLACE,
30

PENELOPE CHILVERS
SUEDE BOOTS, 229

16

BYREDO
BAL DAFRIQUE
EAU DE
PARFUM, 88

TOM FORD
EYE COLOUR
QUAD IN
GOLDEN
MINK, 64

H&M
TRAVEL BLANKET
WITH STRAP, 25

HOBBS
STRAW
HAT, 45

RIVER ISLAND
SWIMSUIT, 35

CALL of
the WILD
Shift utilitarian tailoring up a gear. Tribal accessories and
safari-inspired pieces in sunbaked shades bring a fierce
glamour to the grown-up summer wardrobe

NEW LOOK
WOODEN
BANGLE, 6

PRIMARK
COTTON
VEST, 6

VERSACE

NEXT
COTTON
JACKET, 60

DOROTHY PERKINS
SUEDE SHIRTDRESS, 120

ELIZABETH & JAMES

GOLD-PLATED BRACELET,
220, AT HARVEY NICHOLS

DIESEL
COTTON
MINISKIRT, 120

17

Debut an off-duty
look thats out
of this world.
Isabel Marants
foil trousers speed
summer style
into the future
Lurex T-shirt, 35,
Finery London. Mesh
top, 155, Wolford.
Coated-cotton jeans,
250, Isabel Marant.
Silver earrings,
140, Eddie Borgo.
Hair: Naoki Komiya.
Make-up: Lucy Burt.
Nails: Lyndsay McIntosh.
Digital artwork:
Hempstead May

18

VOGUEspotlight

Cosmic
GIRL
Elfin, ethereal, extraordinary model
Jean Campbells star is on the rise
Photographs by Rory Payne.
Styling by Verity Parker

nce in a while a mould-breaking model comes along; a girl

who (in this case) changes the seasons mood with one flick of
her Rapunzel mane. Meet Jean Campbell, the ethereal
18-year-old British model who counts Stella Tennant and photographer
Tim Walker as mentors.
This elfin blonde made her blockbuster debut in British Vogues
October 2013 issue when she was just 16, photographed by
legendary snapper Bruce Weber in Montauk the summer after her
GCSEs. Life revved up from then on, and now the London teen has
gone from ordinary schoolgirl to billboard star, headlining Burberry
and Louis Vuitton advertising campaigns. She also opened Louis
Vuittons spring/summer 2015 show, only her second catwalk
appearance, and the second instalment of Nicolas
Ghesquires futuristic new vision for the label. Most recently
she donned a chainmail vest and fingerless, knuckle-dusting
leather gloves for the houses spring/summer 2016 show
think 21st-century Girl on a Motorcycle.
So, what is it about this girl that makes her feel so now?
Lets be clear: were not in the presence of a glamazon or an
androgynous pin-up the freckles and outdoorsy flush are real,
and unlike many of her contemporaries she couldnt care less
about chasing a six-figure Instagram following. Jean Campbell is
inspiring a return to delicate beauty; her look doesnt yield to
passing fads. On the set of todays Vogue shoot that storybook mane is
free-flowing (as usual), exactly the way she would style it herself for a
night out at LouLous or a house party. I only wash it two or three times
a week. But I have to cut it pretty regularly, as it grows very quickly,
she says of the wholesome tresses spilling over her Adidas sweater.

The only product I use is Kiehls Argan Hair Pak.

Campbells sharp ascent to fashion stardom sounds like a fairy tale,
right? However her success hasnt unfolded without adversity. The teen
has undergone two hip operations during her short career. Ive had to
relearn to walk in heels twice, she says, unfazed, as she cuddles into a
fluffy white dressing-gown between takes. On set you would never know
she arranges her fawn-like limbs into a succession of cover girl poses,
each held without complaint.
The same quiet resolve underpins her own fearless sense of style.
I love dressing up, whatever the dress code, she says, those blue eyes
sparkling excitedly. I recently found a beautiful floor-length, floaty
dress from Cassie Mercantile that Im going to wear with silver heels

Unlike many of her contemporaries

she couldnt care less about chasing a
six-figure Instagram following
I found on Etsy. Her wardrobe at home holds standout purchases
from Prada, Miu Miu and Balenciaga Campbell has honed the art
of pulling off eccentric dressed-up pieces with ease after studying
Isabella Blows wilder looks. She had the most phenomenal style,
almost like a fictional character.
Talking of fantastical figures, its time for an outfit change. She peels
on a pair of scarlet racer-girl leggings, all the while twisting those
metre-long tresses into a shimmering gold-spun rope about her wrist.
A magical modern-day heroine is in our midst.
19

VOGUEspotlight

20

River Islands
tough-girl
miniskirt
adds polish to
sporting casuals
Opposite: cotton-mix
T-shirt, 30, Adidas
Originals. Zip-front cotton
top, worn underneath,
100, Wood Wood.
Leather miniskirt with
eyelets, 80, River Island

Embellish urban
cool with a sweep
of shimmer on your
eyes. Try Next Make
Me Beautiful Eye
Shadow Quad
in Gold Glitter,
7.50, for a subtly
metallic finish
This page: jersey jacket,
240, T by Alexander
Wang. White mesh T-shirt,
from 28, Brynje.
Earrings, 9, Warehouse

RORY PAYNE

21

Summers statement
synthetic jacket is
a clear fashion hit
This page: PVC jacket, 28.
Jersey motocross top, worn
rolled up, 30. Both Fox
Head. Cropped top, worn
underneath, 35, Fila.
Faux-leather shorts, 20,
H&M, Earrings, as before

Motocross leggings
and a punkish laced
knit make a perfect
tough-luxe pairing
Opposite: cotton sweater,
55, Topshop. Leather
leggings, 350, Les Eclairs

22

VOGUEspotlight

RORY PAYNE

23

BODEN
STUDDED
CANVAS FLATS,
89.50

NAZANIN
ROSE MATIN
SILK SCARF, 135

ELIZABETH & JAMES

GOLD-PLATED HOOPS, FROM
70, AT BLOOMINGDALES.COM

GUEST

GANNI
SILK KIMONO
DRESS, 215

appearance
Casual wont cut it at this seasons
important occasions. Time to master
summer dress-up

NEXT
EMBELLISHED
CHIFFON
DRESS, 45

SELF-PORTRAIT
LACE DRESS, 300

FRENCH CONNECTION
LINEN JACKET, 130.
MATCHING TROUSERS, 80

SEE BY CHLOE
PRINTED SUEDE
SHOES, 250, AT
NET-A-PORTER.COM

City cocktails

MAJE
SILK
DRESS,
305

Embrace the easy charm

of a sweet summer dress or trade
softness for statement in a
blush-toned suiting. Your new
conversation pieces? The
sculptural shoe, embellished bag
and whip-thin Seventies scarf.

TOPSHOP UNIQUE
LACE DRESS, 245

MONSOON
JACQUARD
DRESS, 99

TORY BURCH
SUEDE SANDALS, 375

NEXT
BEADED
CLUTCH, 44

NO 1 BY JENNY PACKHAM
BEADED CLUTCH BAG,
45, AT DEBENHAMS

VOGUEstyle
MISS SELFRIDGE
SATIN MINIDRESS, 45

EMILY LONDON
FLORAL HEADBAND, 335
FINERY LONDON
CHIFFON DRESS, 75

PER UNA
CHIFFON
DRESS, 59,
AT MARKS &
SPENCER
TABITHA SIMMONS
SILK WEDGES, 310

Country wedding
From spriggy blossoms to tropical
blooms, florals come into their own at
a rural wedding. Look to this seasons
prairie dresses and waterfall ruffles, or
cut a crisp, modern silhouette in
flower-strewn culottes.

KURT GEIGER LONDON

LEATHER BAG, 220

BOOHOO.COM
GEORGETTE
MINIDRESS, 25

CH CAROLINA HERRERA
BROCADE TOP, 250.
CULOTTES, 335

PRIMARK
MAXI DRESS, 19

RIVER ISLAND
COTTON-MIX
DRESS, 55

BALLET BEAUTIFUL
SATIN BALLET
SLIPPERS, 115, AT
NET-A-PORTER.COM
WHISTLES
SILK JUMPSUIT, 230

MARINA RINALDI
DROP EARRINGS, 89

25

F&F
BLAZER, 28

AG DENIM JEANS,
225, AT HARRODS

UPTOWN POLISH
Jessica Alba nails
polished preppy
glamour with her
blend of well-cut
blazer, love-worn
jeans and buffed,
tan leather details.

MES DEMOISELLES
SILK-MIX DRESS, 280

ATP ATELIER
LEATHER
SLIDES, 120

NEXT
SUNGLASSES, 10

Fly
GIRLS
Stylish frequent flyers know
airports are the new catwalks.
Follow their lead and give
your in-flight wardrobe
a first class upgrade

NEW-WAVE HIPPY
As easy as it
is elegant, the
floaty tea dress
is a travel
no-brainer for
Diane Kruger:
simply throw
on and go.

NIKE LEATHER
TRAINERS, 70

BY MALENE BIRGER
GABARDINE JACKET,
300. MATCHING
TROUSERS, 205
ASPINAL OF
LONDON
LEATHER
PASSPORT
COVER, 45

DUNE
STUDDED LEATHER
SANDALS, 69

ATEA OCEANIE
COTTON
SWEATSHIRT, 175

I&I
SILVER TUSK
EARRINGS, 35

PICTURE PERFECT
Effortless in-flight;
paparazzi-ready
on arrival: Kendall
Jenner pairs
sneakers and a
sweatshirt with this
seasons smart
striped tailoring.

ALDO
STRAW
HAT, 15

VOGUEstyle
ETRE CECILE
COTTON VEST, 50
LANDS END
CASHMERE
SWEATER, 130

VICTORIA BECKHAM
SUNGLASSES, 325

NEXT
COTTON
JEANS, 24

BRIGHT IDEA
Cashmere and
silk keep
Gwyneth Paltrow
comfortably
cocooned at
altitude, while
sturdy walking
boots are the
experienced
travellers go-to.

PRADA

ARIES
SILK TROUSERS, 255

MASTER & DYNAMIC

HEADPHONES, 260,
AT SELFRIDGES

ASOS.COM
SATIN JACKET, 65

STREET CHIC
Air miles come with
a supermodels job.
Take your styling
cues from Gigi
Hadid: wear
laid-back sporty
separates with a
rocknroll spin.

CLARKS
LEATHER
BOOTS, 120

The main drag

Whether youre heading long-haul or local, a
stylish holdall is your passport to globetrotting cool.
So choose from a clutch of suitably stylish designs...

Week-long

JACK WILLS
CANVAS HOLDALL, 44.50

Weekender

Long-haul

Hand luggage

RIMOWA
CARRY-ON
CASE, 395
STEAMLINE LUGGAGE
SUITCASE, 295

EASTPAK
WHEELIE
CASE, 140

VOGUEshops
SUNGLASSES, 190, 3.1 PHILLIP
LIM FOR LINDA FARROW.
EMBELLISHED SNEAKERS, 130,
CARVELA. SUEDE CLUTCH WITH
LACES, 370, DSQUARED2

SPORTING greats
WITH THE ATHLEISURE TREND SHOWING NO SIGN OF FLAGGING, LOOK TO
HIGH-IMPACT ACCESSORIES TO KEEP YOUR WARDROBE IN PEAK CONDITION
(EVEN IF YOUR GYM ATTENDANCE IS GRINDING TO A HALT)
28

RIGHT, FROM TOP: 7,

H&M. 129, RAY-BAN,
AT SUNGLASS HUT.
115, CARRERA, AT
SUNGLASSES SHOP

White

VOGUEbuys

Aviators

FRANCOISE HARDY

Eye SPY

FROM TOP: 215, SAINT

LAURENT BY HEDI
SLIMANE. 239, CELINE,
AT HARVEY NICHOLS.
225, SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO. 150,
MAX MARA, AT HARVEY
NICHOLS. 220, LOTHO

BIANCA JAGGER

Nothing signposts celebrity like a striking pair

of shades. Emulate your eyewear icon and
indulge in a little starry behaviour of your own...
KATE MOSS

TWIGGY
RIGHT, FROM TOP:
14, ASOS.COM.
45, & OTHER
STORIES. 15,
NEXT. 6, NEW
LOOK. 137,
WILDFOX, AT
HARRODS

Round
Cats-eye
RIGHT, FROM TOP: 50,
2NDDAY. 249, GUCCI.
255, PRISM. 340,
THIERRY LASRY, AT
MATCHESFASHION.COM

LEFT, FROM TOP: 220,

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
FOR LINDA FARROW.
110, MARC JACOBS,
AT HARVEY NICHOLS.
288, OLIVER PEOPLES
THE ROW, AT HARRODS.
14, RIVER ISLAND

Oversized

DONNA SUMMER

VOGUE PROMOTION

THE
WILD
country
A clever mix of relaxed tailoring and
organic textures creates the coolest approach
to raw androgyny at Next right now
Photographs by Quentin de Briey
Styling by Verity Parker

Team lovewornlooking styles

with crisp whites
to give distressed
staples a degree of
sophistication
Brown shirt, 32. Ecru
shirt, 32. Shorts, 26.
All Next. Hair: Jonathan
Connelly. Make-up:
Lucy Burt. Production:
Blondes Pool.
Model: Amanda Murphy

Raw denim and thick cotton vests are a match made in workwear nirvana.
Air-dried hair and minimal make-up will complement this look no end
Ribbed vest, 4.50. Wide-leg cropped jeans, 26. Both Next. Visit Next.co.uk

QUENTIN DE BRIEY

VOGUE PROMOTION

The rule of thumb

this season at Next:
less is more. Opt
for clever cuts in
luxurious fabrics
that will work
hard, without
looking try-hard
Coated skirt, 30. T-shirt,
4.50, Duffel bag, 55.
Sandals, 32. All Next

VOGUE PROMOTION

Suits dont need

gloss or polish.
Sporty lingerie
and woven-leather
flats make
understatedly
sexy additions
Jacket, 55. Trousers, 35.
Bra, 20. Fedora, 22.
Sandals, 26. All Next.
Visit Next.co.uk

Natural fibres lead

the way to an organic
brand of beauty.
Surprise yourself with
the confidence that
simplicity affords
Chambray shirt, 24. All Next

QUENTIN DE BRIEY

VOGUE PROMOTION
True-blue indigo
denim lends the
cool factor wherever
you may roam
Bikini top, 16. Western belt,
15. Jeans, 26. All Next.
Visit Next.co.uk

QUENTIN DE BRIEY

Stripped back
neednt mean
suggestive.
The most stylish
swimmers
dive straight in
with athletic
one-pieces
Swimsuit, 30, Next.
Visit Next.co.uk

QUENTIN DE BRIEY

VOGUE PROMOTION

Boyish silhouettes hold

particular sway with the
new wave of Nineties
aficionados. Buy now, wear
now, love forever
Denim jacket, 30. Linen shirt, 32.
Jeans 26. All Next

VOGUE PROMOTION

Shift the focus from

pretty to practical
effortlessly toughen up
embroidered
sundresses with
boyfriend layers
Khaki jacket, 38. Ribbed
vest, 4.50. Embroidered
dress, 58. All Next

QUENTIN DE BRIEY

VOGUEstyle
PLUNGE

WRAP

STELLA M CCARTNEY
170
ERES
265

STRAPLESS
NEXT
30

ONE-SHOULDER
WAREHOUSE
35

MESH
FIFTIES

LA PERLA
238

ONE LOVE
CUTOUT

REDISCOVER A FASHION CLASSIC: THE STREAMLINED

BLACK ONE-PIECE IS BACK ON BOARD
hether your beach pin-up
is a bombshell Marilyn
Monroe or a lithe Kate
Moss, when it comes to holiday
style, the black swimsuit rules. While
we love our itsy-bitsy bikinis, theres
a new appeal to the grown-up,
body-sculpting one-piece, cast in
fashions favourite shade.
Update your wish list: this season,
the ageless poolside staple is revised
to meet spring/summer 16s bodyconscious mood, with clever cut-outs,
plunging necklines (beloved of Gigi
Hadid) and feminine ribbon ties.

TOPSHOP
34

SEAFOLLY
93, AT
SELFRIDGES

Show off this seasons new erogenous

zones in Topshops keyhole style,
snag a chic catwalk edge in Stella
McCartneys waist-cinching design,
or stow Warehouses disco-ready
one-shoulder cut (think Debbie Harry
sur la plage) in your carry-on. The new
wave jet set is all about a fresh take on
old-school glamour. Our tip? Wear
your one-piece after sunset with wide
palazzo pants and heavyweight hoop
earrings. Your muse is French actress
Claudine Auger, who played the role of
Domino in Bond movie Thunderball,
and the sand is your runway.
Q

COVER SWIM
FROM 130, AT
NEIMANMARCUS.COM

SPORTY

Sporty

Botanical

TRIANGL
BIKINI, 69

COS
BIKINI TOP, 17.
BOTTOMS, 17

DOLCE & GABBANA

SWIMSUIT, 315

MISSGUIDED
BIKINI TOP, 12.
BOTTOMS, 10

CALZEDONIA
BIKINI TOP, 32.
BOTTOMS, 16

NEXT
SWIMSUIT, 28

FLAGPOLE SWIM
BIKINI, 300, AT
NET-A-PORTER.COM

NIKKI DE MARCHI
SWIMSUIT, 185

MARA HOFFMAN
SWIMSUIT, 215,
AT HARRODS

Nautical

A bigger SPLASH
Calling all poolside posers: this seasons statement swimwear is high
on look-at-me attitude. Holiday wallflowers need not apply...

VOGUEbuys
Crochet

Geometric
MELISSA
ODABASH
BIKINI, 182
ASOS.COM
SWIMSUIT, 35

PILYQ
BIKINI, 269, AT
BEACHCAFE.COM

PRIMARK
SWIMSUIT, 6

HEIDI KLEIN
BIKINI, 190
EBERJEY
BIKINI TOP, 78,
BOTTOMS, 63. BOTH
AT BEACHCAFE.COM
MISSONI
BIKINI, 287

LISA MAREE
SWIMSUIT, 114
RIVER ISLAND
BIKINI TOP, 16.
BOTTOMS, 12

LEMLEM
BIKINI,
FROM 99
ASCENO
BIKINI TOP, 90.
BOTTOMS, 80

NEXT
BIKINI TOP, 16.
BOTTOMS, 12

TOMMY
HILFIGER
BIKINI, 230

LISA MARIE
FERNANDEZ
SWIMSUIT, 330,
AT SELFRIDGES

MIKOH
BIKINI, FROM 160

Frills

BEN DE LISI
FOR DEBENHAMS
SWIMSUIT, 39

Earth tones

VOGUEbeauty

THATS A WRAP
They boost circulation, draw out toxins
and help reduce stubborn cellulite: body
wraps are the ultimate pre-holiday treat.

SPECIAL
TREATS

When it comes to holiday

hair damage, prevention
is always better than cure.
Try these treatments
prior to take-off to
guard against dryness
and dehydration:

QUICK-FIX
EXERCISE
Ballet workouts are a fast way
to target stubborn areas
around the upper thighs and
glutes. We love Paolas
BodyBarre Below, which uses
barre techniques for an
effective pre-holiday body blitz.
Paolasbodybarre.com

John Frieda Frizz

Ease 10 Day
Tamer, 12.99,
leaves hair glossy
and manageable;
especially useful if
youre heading to
a humid climate.

GHD Advanced
Split End
Therapy, 19.95,
blends nourishing
ingredients to
bind hair ibres
and prevent
future breakage.

Pureology Colour
Fanatic Mask,
23, contains an
anti-fade complex
to lock in your hair
colour and protect
against UV rays.

For a comprehensive MOT, look no further

than the Detoxifying Body Cleanse, 230, at
ESPA Life at the Corinthia Hotel. This
indulgent treatment incorporates a marinealgae wrap with a body-contouring massage
to help you achieve super-smooth limbs.
Espalifeatcorinthia.com

DO YOUR
PREP
FROM PRE-TRAVEL PAMPERING TO
IN-FLIGHT INDULGENCES, THE HOLIDAY
COUNTDOWN HAS BEGUN

All natural and all enriching,

Oulis Ointment, 13,
blends beeswax, olive oil
and camomile to keep
cuticles and lips nourished.

Olivia Von Halle

Eyemasks, 45 with
matching pouch, are
beautifully crafted
and lightly padded,
ensuring your night
flight is an elegantly
restful affair.

Head to one of the Cowshed spas for a

restorative combination of rigorous body
brushing and the new Evening Primrose
Mask, 110, which features aloe vera leaf
extract and sweet almond oil, to soothe and
repair the skin.Theres also a mini-facial and a
body massage to boot.
Cowshedonline.com/spa

IN-FLIGHT
DELIGHTS
Use your hours in the air to
focus on last-minute beauty care,
and youll land looking lovely
A lightweight version
of the original cream,
Elizabeth Arden Eight
Hour All-Over Miracle
Oil, 29, provides total
hydration for skin,
nails and hair.

De Mamiel Altitude Oil, 26,

is a prerequisite to any beauty
editors air travel. The blend
of essential oils not only wards
off those pesky aeroplane
colds but also leaves you
feeling blissfully calm.

Yes, spirulina is a superfood, but it is also

highly effective when applied topically.
Draw out toxins and excess fluid with a
Kerstin Florian Spirulina Detox Wrap at
The Dorchester, from 130. The treatment
also includes full body exfoliation to increase
circulation (a godsend for stubborn cellulite).
Dorchestercollection.com/en/london

Shimmering shades can also be

long-wear. Look to Kiko LongLasting Stick Eyeshadow, 6.90,
for richly pigmented shades that
remain radiant for hours on end.

Clinique High
Impact Waterproof
Mascara, 17.50,
resists humidity and
heat. Even if youre
melting, you can be
confident your mascara wont.

Hot
in the
CITY
STEAMY URBAN SUMMERS CAN BE A TOUGH
BEAUTY CALL, BUT THE NEW SMART
PRODUCTS WILL HEATPROOF YOUR LOOK.
PRETTY COOL, NO?

Get set and go:

a quick spritz of
micro-fine LOral
Paris Infallible Fixing
Mist, 7.99, will keep
your make-up
looking fresh for up
to 24 hours.

Beauty goals: a sun-kissed

glow that wont slide off.
Make Up Forevers waterproof
Pro Bronze Fusion Bronzer,
28, is our new go-to.

Create your own

beauty heat with a pop
of blazing colour. Next
Nail Colour Collection
in Antique Fuschia, 4,
is the ultimate hot pink.
Master the new chic shine: Bobbi
Brown Extra Lip Tint, 25, is infused
with olive oil, vitamin E and babassu
palm seed oil for nourishment as well
as a subtle flush of pink.
45

BEST FOR: SENSITIVE SKIN

Eau Thermale Avne

Very High Protection
Cream SPF50+, 13.50,
is free from parabens and
contains thermal spring
water for naturally
soothing protection.

BEST FOR: CITY SKIN

Bioderma Hydrabio
Eau de Soin, 9, boasts
a water-based formula
containing vitamin E
to protect your skin
from the damaging
effect of stress.

Haute
protection
SPF is the foremost
weapon in summers
beauty armoury

BEST FOR: AGEING SKIN

Rvive Soleil Superieur

SPF50, 85, improves
skin texture and irmness,
as well as providing
high-grade UV protection.
BEST FOR: OILY SKIN

La Roche-Posays Anthelios
Dry Touch Gel, 18,
contains micro-pigments
that combat shine, as well as
offering sun protection and
natural-looking coverage.

Face SAVERS
REVISE YOUR BEAUTY GO-TOS TO COMBAT
DEHYDRATION AND SUN DAMAGE.
SHOW YOUR SKIN YOU CARE...

Give the pre-holiday green juices

a miss: Origins By All Greens
Foaming Deep Cleansing Mask,
32, is packed with superantioxidants such as spinach and
spirulina, to deep- cleanse skin
without drying it out.

Puffy, sun-strained eyes

will relish the brightening
and replumping properties
of Dior Capture Totale
Le Srum Yeux, 77.

Easy does it : Liz Earle Gentle

Face Exfoliator, 15.75,
contains jojoba beads to softly
buff away dead skin cells
without brushing away your
sun-kissed glow.

Quench your skin: Erborian

Bamboo Splash Watery Lotion,
29, is rich in shea butter and
bamboo extract for cooling,
on-the-go hydration.

46

Glorious mud: decongest

your skin without disrupting
its surface equilibrium;
apply NIOD Flavanone
Mud masque, 28.

VOGUEbeauty
Holiday romance:
fake the irst flush of
love with Beneit
Benetint, 24.50, a
rosy hint of colour
for cheeks and lips.

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

A dusting of Bobbi Brown

Highlighting Powder in
Bronze Glow, 34, flatters
skin with an instant
sun-burnished glow.

Oh, those
summer nights
SUN-KISSED SKIN, AZURE EYES, AND
THE SCENT OF THE MEDITERRANEAN:
EVENINGS NEW BEAUTY BUYS WILL
TAKE YOU FAR, FAR AWAY...

Nighttime eyes come

to life with Este
Lauder Sumptuous
Knockout Deining
Lift and Fan Mascara,
24, which offers
clump-free intensity.

MISSONI

Givenchys innovative
Khol Couture
Waterproof Eyeliners,
16, deliver vibrant
pigments and a highly
durable inish in a
rainbow of shades.

Quench salty lips

with Clinique Sweet
Pots, 15, which
contain a sugar scrub
and a tinted balm to
soothe cracked and
sun-damaged skin.

Evoking the heat of

high summer, Jo Loves
Mandrine, 65, is a
vibrant blend of
bergamot oil, bitter
orange and lemon-tree
leaf, peppered with
soft, spicy base notes.

Combat unwanted
shine with Shisheido
Synchro Skin Lasting
Liquid Foundation,
32, which adapts
throughout the day,
providing flawless,
semi-matt coverage
at all times.

A shot of intense colour

pops against tanned skin.
Our new go-to? Next
Make Me Beautiful
Perfect Look Eye
Shadow Quad in Blue,
7.50, creates the perfect
azure smoky eye.

A heightened version
of its predecessor, Tom
Ford Neroli Portoino
Forte, 195, has double
the concentration of
floral notes in its heart.
Lavender and
blood-orange top notes
and an amber and
oakmoss base give it a
verdant opulence.

BALENCIAGA
BRASS, 215, AT
MATCHESFASHION.COM

STOCKISTS
The merchandise featured editorially has been ordered from the following stores. Some shops may carry a selection
only. Prices and availability were checked at the time of going to press, but we cannot guarantee that prices will
not change or that specific items will be in stock when the magazine is published. We suggest that before visiting
a shop you phone to make sure they have your size. In case of difficulty, contact Vogues Merchandise Department
(020 7499 9080). Where unspecified, stockists are in London or general enquiry numbers are given.

COAST
DIAMANTE, 15

WHISTLES
BRASS, 30

Gilt tripping
Editors who pack light
always stow earrings with
heavyweight style
ARME DE LAMOUR
GOLD-PLATED, 195,
AT NET-A-PORTER.COM

JIGSAW
BRASS, 35

NEW LOOK
RESIN AND
METAL, 6

& Other Stories Stories.com

2ndday.com
A
Accessorize.com
Adidas Originals 0870 240 4204
Aldoshoes.com
Allsaints.com
Ancientgreeksandals.com
Apc.fr
Ariesarise.com
Asceno.com
Aspinaloflondon.com
Ateaoceanie.com
Atpatelier.com
B
Ba-sh.com
Bedouinstudios.com
Benetton.com
Bershka.com
Bimbaylola.com
Boden 0844 873 0000
Brooksbrothers.com
Brora.co.uk
Brynje-shop.com
By Malene Birger 020 7486 4000
C
Calzedonia.com
Cambridgesatchel.com
Camper.com
Carvela 020 7781 7480
CH Carolina Herrera
020 3441 0965
Chiaraferragnicollection.com
Clarks.co.uk
Claudie Pierlot 020 7408 1030
Clovercanyon.com
Coast-stores.com
Cosstores.com
D
Debenhams.com
Diesel.com
Dodo.it
Dolce & Gabbana
020 7659 9000
Dorothyperkins.com
Dsquared2 020 7734 3492
Dunelondon.com
E
Eastpak.com
Eddieborgo.com
Emily-london.com
Eres 020 7235 4261
Etrececile.com
F
F-f.com
Fila.co.uk
Finerylondon.com
Forever21.com
Foxhead.com
Frenchconnection.com
Furla.com
G
Ganni.com
Gap.co.uk

Glamorous.com
Gucci 020 7235 6707
H
H&M 0344 736 9000
Harrods 020 7730 1234
Harvey Nichols 020 7235 5000
Heidiklein.com
Hilfiger Collection
020 3144 0900
Hobbs.co.uk
Hunterboots.com
I
Iandijewellery.com
Isabel Marant 020 7499 7887
J
Jackwills.com
Jaeger.co.uk
Jcrew.com
Jigsaw-online.com
Joubi.com
Joythestore.com
K
Karenmillen.com
Kipling.com
Kurt Geiger London
020 7781 7480
L
Labelonline.co.uk
Lacoste.com
Landsend.co.uk
La Perla 020 7399 0620
Lemlem.com
Leon Max 020 7221 1204
Leseclairs.com
Lindafarrow.com
Lisamaree.com.au
Lisamariefernandez.com
Lkbennett.com
Lomography.com
Lotho.fr
M
Maje 020 7486 0306
Manebi.eu
Mango.com
Marinarinaldi.com
Marks & Spencer 0333 014 8555
Massimodutti.com
Matalan.co.uk
Maxstudio.co.uk
Melissa Odabash Odabash.com
Mes Demoiselles 020 7486 4800
Michael Michael Kors
020 7659 3550
Mikoh.com
Missguided.co.uk
Miss KG 020 7781 7480
Missoni.com
Missselfridge.com
Misssixty.com
Monsoon.co.uk
N
Nazaninrosematin.com
Newlook.com
Next 0333 777 8939 Next.co.uk

Nike.com
Nikkidemarchi.com
O
Office.co.uk
Oscar de la Renta 020 7493 0422
P
Penelopechilvers.com
Pepejeans.com
Plumo.com
Primark 0118 9606 300
Prismlondon.com
R
Reiss 020 7473 9630
Rimowa.com
River Island 0844 576 6444
Roberto Cavalli 020 7823 1879
Russell & Bromley 020 7629 6903
S
Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane
020 7235 6706
Salvatore Ferragamo (sunglasses)
Marchon.com
Samedelman.com
Seafarer Theseafarer.com
Selectfashion.co.uk
Self-portrait-studio.com
Selfridges.com
Sideline-clothing.com
Skagen.com
Sonia by Sonia Rykiel
020 7493 5255
Sophiawebster.com
Steamlineluggage.com
Stella McCartney 020 7518 3100
Sunglass Hut 0844 264 0860
Sunglasses-shop.co.uk
Superga.co.uk
T
Tabithasimmons.com
T by Alexander Wang
020 3727 5568
Theory 020 7985 1188
Tommy Hilfiger 020 3144 0900
Topshop.com
Toryburch.co.uk
Triangl.com
Trilogystores.com
U
Urbanears.com
V
Vanessabruno.com
Victoria Beckham 020 7042 0700
W
Warehouse.co.uk
Whistles.com
Wolfordshop.co.uk
Woodwood.dk
Y
Yolke.co.uk
Z
Zadig & Voltaire 020 7792 8788
Zara.com
Zimmermannwear.com
Zoekarssen.com

VOGUE PROMOTION

Essential style comes

in varying silhouettes,
but when it comes to
versatility the simple
shift rivals all. Choose
long sleeves to see you
through the year
Sweater dress, 32.
Boots, 58. Both Next

QUENTIN DE BRIEY

VOGUE PROMOTION
Never did a combo
say clean-cut and
easy so clearly as
the denim shirt
and white vest

*ALL STOCK SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. DELIVERY EXCLUSIONS APPLY. FOR FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS GO TO NEXT.CO.UK

Denim shirt, 24.

Linen shirt, 32. Ribbed
vest, 4.50. All Next.
Visit Next.co.uk. Order
by midnight for next-day
delivery for 3.99*

QUENTIN DE BRIEY