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Check out this new

Handymanmov

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DIY video online


Master your' belt sander
A veteran woodworker demonstrates
what to do-and what not to do-for
fast, flawless surface prep. Find all
our videos under "Editors' Picks" on
our home page.

Alsofeatured online
this month
Cobbtestone path
A simplified sand
easy, pavers make

it
it affordable,

base makes

and cobblestones add style.

Renew a fence
Make shabby, weathered wood
Iook like new in three easy steps.

lnstallcement siding
It won't rot, it holds paint better
than wood and it's easy to install
you know a few key tricks.

-if

Add attic vents


Better ventilation means lower
cooling costs, longer shingle life
and no more ice dams.

It.

THE TOOL BLOG

Our editors sound off on


their favorite tools and gear.
You can post your opinions, too.
To

find any of these artictes after July

We

15,

2009, iust type the title into the search box on our home page.

want your feedback!

Join our Reader Feedback Panel and give us your opinions about the magazine. As a member, you can
tell us what you tike and what you don't like, and share your ideas for stories that woutd interest you.
To join the Reader Feedback Panel, go to thefamityhandyman.com/panel and complete the brief
questionnaire. That's atl there is to it! Then you can spout off att you want and share your opinions on

our occasional online surveys. Thanks for your help, and we look forward to hearing from you soon!
The editors of The Family Handyman

JutylAugust2009 t

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m i ty h a n d y m a n. co m

by Ken Coltier
editors@thefamityhandyman.com

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Bett sander basics-and beyond


sanders are the big, powertul
of the sanding world. Few
tools can save you as much time-or
wreck your project faster. If you're new
to belt sanders or have been frustrated
by yours, read on to find out how to
keep that big ape under control.

la1"t,

lJgorillas

What it'tl do for you


Belt sanders are multiuse tools. They
are commonly used for trimming to a
scribed line [photo ilght), sanding very
rough surfaces, Ieveling surfaces (like a

replacement board
I

luty,/August2oog

in a

hardwood

thefamityhandyman.com

PERFECT
FOR

SCRIBING
A common use
for a sma[[ bett

sander is scribing.
You can gradually
sneak up on a
curved line for a
perfect fit. On a

[aminate countertop, make sure the


direction of belt
traveI pushes the
laminate down.

belts or emptying the dust bag. I


have a scar that attests to the importance of this seemingly grandmoth-

erly precar,rtion.

r If you use the belt sander to sand


metal, y611'll create sparks, which
can start a fire if thev mix r,vith the
sawdust in the machine and the
dust bag. Blow or vacLrum the dust
out of the sander before yor-r use it

on metal, and remove the dr-rst bag.

Make sure the trigger is off before


plugging the sander in. Belt sanders
have a locking button that holds the
switch in the "on" position. Sounds
kinda "duh," but trust me, it happens. You don't want the sander to
fly across the room when you piug it
i.n, do you?

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TRIM AFTER SAT{DINIG


It's hard to keep a bett sander from gouging or rounding over the ends of a board. So if
you can, belt-sand the board before cutting it to final length. You can then safely move
on to a palm sander and finer grits.

Belt sanders exert a fair amor-rnt of


force on the work. So if yor,rr work
isn't securely held, it'll slide away
from or right into you. Clamps get in
the way, but a simple slop on the
appropriate side of the workpiece
(middlephoto, p. 10) will keep it from
sliding. Choose a stop that's a little
thinner than the rvorkpiece so the

sander

will clear it

at the edge,

Tuning up your sande!"


First, make sure the belt is oriented
properly. Some belts have a preferred
direction, indicated by an arrow on the

inside. Nondirectional belts can be


installed either way. The only adjustment you'Il probably have to make is
"tracking" to keep the belt centered on
the roller. Hold the sander r-rp, turn it

WATCH OUT ON PLYWL'}OD


Belt sanders take off serious amounts of wood, so they can wreck plywood pretty
much instantly. lf you have to sand solid-wood edging ftush with ptywood, draw a pencit line on the ptywood to tetlyou when the sander starts removing veneer. lf you have
variable speed, dial it down.

on, and see if the belt either rubs


against the housing or starts working its
way off the rollers. With the trigger on,

until the belt


centered on the rollers. You may
have to make a slight adjustment when
the sander is on the wood. If vour
adjust the tracking knob

is

sander has automatic tracking, you


don't need to mess with any of that
nonsense.

Some sanders have variable speed.


You can go at maximun speed most of

video

llw",.n no*-to
/f, See alt the" right moves to make with a belt sander I
I in our short video, "Belt Sander Techniques." Visit I
I thefamityhandyman.com/video. Click on
I
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How-to Videos" in the section "Editor's Picks."

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KEEP THF BELT CLFAI"J


Dirty betts make for lousy work. A belt-cleanine stick ($B) wi[[ remove the pitch buitdup
that happens with att woods, especialty pine or sappy woods. Push it against the moving bett, or for larger sanders, ctamp the stick in a vise and sand it.

12

JutylAugust2oog thefamityhandyman.com

the time, but you'll want to throttle

it

back for delicate work.

Pick a belt,
but not any bett
Personally, I use B0- and 120-grit belts

regularly, and rarely, 50-grit. Grits


coarser than 50 leave deep scratches
that are difficult to remove. And if
you're doing finer sanding, you're better off using a random-orbit sander.
Remember one of the rules of sanding:
You can skip one grade of grit, but it
wastes time and you'll just wear out
belts skipping two. For example, you
can go from B0 Io 12O, skipping 100

grit, but don't go from 50 lo

12O.

Aluminum oxide is the traditional


grit material. You'll find it in lessexpensive khaki-color form, good if

GOOD FOR ROUGH SHARPENING


You can use a belt sander for rough sharpening of toots like axes, shovels, knives and
chisels. Remove the dust bag and remove alt dust from the sander (sparks and dust are
a bad combination), then use a zirconia belt for best resutts.

you need a disposable belt, and longerlasting, dark brown premium belts.

However, for grits of B0 and coarser,


many people now prefer zirconia belts
(sometimes called "planer" belts). They
have sharper, tougher cutting particles
that cut more aggressively, last longer
and don't clog as easily. These belts are
usually bright blue or purple. Zirconia
belts run about $2.50 each, and premium aluminum oxide belts are about $2.

Soup up your sander


Belt sanders are simple tools that don't
need many improvements. However, if
you use your belt sander in the shop,
consider these two upgrades.
Dust collection. Belt sanders always
come with a built-in dust bag that collects most of the coarser dust and needs

regular emptying. However, plenty of


fine dust still gets into the air. If you're
doing a lot of beit sanding, it's worth
getting a hose that allows you to connect your sander to a shop vacuum.
You'll be able to sand all day with nary
a speck of dust (lowerphoto).
You can sometimes use the hose that
with your shop vacuum, but it's
usually too large or too stiff. The alternative is a super-flexible, small-diameter hose designed for dust collection.
came

You can buy one at a woodworking specialty store or online (search "vacuum

hose"). I use one made by Porter-Cable


that cost $25. Dust ports vary widely
(some are square, which is a challenge),
14

Juty/August2oog thefamityhandyman.com

BETTER DUST COLLECTION


The bag on a bett sander provides decent dust cotlection, but with a little fiddling you
can attach a long, soft hose and a shop vacuum to your belt sander. The payoff: no bag
emptying and almost no dust in the air.
so you may have to fiddle around to get

you to bring the work to the tool

the hose to fit. There are commercial

instead of vice versa. The design of the


stand is completely dependent on the
shape of your sander, so we won't give
plans. However, it generally involves
several layers of plywood, each with
cutouts to accommodate the parts of
the sander that protrude, plus a couple

adapters ($10 to $20; pick one up when


you buy your hose) or yolr can cobble

something together

with-you

guessed

it-duct tape. It's worth the fuss,


though: no dust in your workspace.
Shop-made stand. A handy accesso-

ry if you do much woodworking is a of hose clamps or other clamping


stand that holds your sander on its devices to hold the sander securely.
side, upside down or vertical, allowing

Add another piece of plywood to act

We

want your feedback!

Help us improve The Family Handyman


by sharing your opinion of this and
other articles. See p. 4 for details.

as

if needed.
Stands like this are particularly useful if you want to sand lots of small
parts-for example, if you're making
lots of wooden toys. For inspiration,
search online for "belt sander stand
photo."
U
a table,

Synthetic slate roofing shingtes


Synthetic slate roofing tiles from DaVinci Roofscapes have
the authentic look and durability of natural quarried slate,
but at half the installed cost and with faster and easier

installation. The lightweight polymer tiles eliminate the


need for and cost of the extra roof supports required by natural slate. The tiles have a Class A fire rating (the best), can
withstand high-velocity hurricane winds and are backed by
a SO-year warranty. Available in nine color blends with
color variances that mimic natural slate, the tiles can only
be installed by certified roofing contractors. For prices and
dealer information, call or check the Web site.
davinciroofscapes.com, (800) 328-4624
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Window screens for altergy sufferers


If you've been keeping your windows shut to prevent allergy attacks, PollenTec window screens might heip you let

the summer breeze in without running for a tissue. The


screens look similar to normal screens, but the company
says they're designed with a special filter that lets air in
while keeping airborne pollens out. The PollenTec screens
aren't cheap. The screening material alone costs $10 per
sq. ft., or you can order complete screen lrames for about
$75 for a normal-size window. But if you're shelling out
$400 a month for AC bills, being able to open the windows
for a cooling breeze might be worth it. Visit the Web site
for more information.

PollenTec.com, (623) 780-2400

Rechargeable
lantern on the go
This portable lantern can illuminate
your nighttime stroll or your dinner
table when you're eating out under the
stars. The Luau portable lamp ($fSS) is
a rechargeable LED lantern that lasts
from 6 to 10 hours on a charge. Dim it
or turn it off to conserve the charge
until you need it. You can also take it
along camping and use it to light up the
tent while you snuggle in a sleeping
bag. Who says roughing it has to
be...rough?

J
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vesset.com, (877) 805-180]

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thefamllyhandyman.com

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by Brett Martin
editors@thefami[yhandyman.com

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Portabte, battery-powered gri nder


itachi's 4-Ll2-in. angle grinder is the perfect go-to tool
for grinding metal or for cutting tile, metal or rebar when
you don't want to hassle with a cord. Once you own the
grinder, you'll find yourself reaching for it instead of a hacksaw, recip saw or corded grinder-and saving a lot of time.
Don't think the cordless grinder won't deliver-the hightorque motor cranks out 9,100 rpm to handle tough jobs.

And it's lightweight (+.2 lbs.) and quieter ihan corded


models. The downsides: It's more expensive than a corded
model and needs to be charged. If you already own an 18voit Hitachi tool, you can use that NiCad, NiMH or lithiumion battery and just get the grinder itself for $100.

The

grinder with one lithium battery and a charger costs $200.


you need help Iocating a retailer, visit the Web site.
Hitachi, (800) 706-7337 hitachipowertoots.com

20

lulylAugust2ooq thefamltyhandyman.com

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No shocking surprises
Do you identify circuits by flipping breakers and listening for
your helper's yell when you've
found the right one? Zircon's CF
12 Pro Circuit Breaker Kit has a
better way. Plug the transmitter

into the circuit, then wave the


receiver over the breaker box
twice. On the second pass, the
receiver identifies the breaker
with a green LED light and an
alarm. It's handy for tying in to
an existing circuit, changing outIets or upgrading light fixtures.

The 9120 kit includes

lGeps PaintOut.
l(eeps Lines Sharp,

an

adapter that screws into a light


socket for working on fixtures,

two adapters with clips for bare


wires, and biades that plug into
120- and 240-volt outlets. The
CF t2 Circuit Finder (ga3) han-

EfogTape'.

dles outlets only. Available from


amazon.com and oiher retailers.
Zircon, (800) 245-9265. zircon.com

Paint has been leaking and bleeding under


your old masking tape for too long. FrogTape's

exclusive PaintBloclf Technology forms a


micro-barrier that stops paint in its tracks.
Now touch-ups are a thing of the past.

FrogTape.com 877-FR0GTAPE

> W.

-."

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f..dbr.L-

us improve The Fanity Handyman by sharing your opinion of this

H.6

and other articles. See p. 4 for details.


luty,/August

2OO9

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Shurtape

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Automatic-start weed trimmer


My wife will mow the yard with a walk-behind
mower, but she refuses to use the trimmer for the finish work. That's because she has trouble starting ita lot of priming and five or more pulls before it fires
up. So I bought her Ryobi's trimmer with TouchStart.
Its rechargeable 12-volt battery lets you start the trimmer with the push of a button-easiest start ever. Am
I a great husband or what?
The trimmer has a straight shaft, which the company says is better for getting into hard-to-reach areas.
It also has a generous 18-in.-wide cutting swatch. The
trimmer is available at Home Depot for $180.

Ryobi, (800) 525-2579. ryobitools.com

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22

Juty/August2OOg

thefamllyhandyman,com

You may be feeling better,

but your risk of a


future heart attack or
stroke never goes away.

lf you
tal<e PLAVIX

ontinuing
to do so

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You can stop


leaks yourselfno experience

necessary

If you \ave watqq stains that extend across ceilings


Of fUn dOWn WallS,

the cause is probably a roof leak. Tracking down


the leak is the hard part; the fixes are usually pretty easy. We,ll show you some
simple tricks for finding and repairing most of the common types of roof leaks.
But if you live in the snow Belt and in the winter you have leaks only on warm
or sunny days, you probably have ice dams. we won't go into those fixes in this
story. If you go to thefamilyhandyman.com and type in "ice dams," you'll find a
bit of help for that problem too.
thef amllyhandyman.com

Juty,/August2OOg

25

Fixi ng the five most common [ea ks


Ptumbing vent boots
Plumbing vent boots can be all plastic, plas-

tic and metal, or

l.

TORN

even two-piece
metal units. Check plastic bases
tbr cracks and metal bases tor
broken seams. Then examine
the rubber boot surrounding
the pipe. That can be rotted
away or torn, allowing water
the

to work its way into

house along the pipe. With


any of these problems, you
should buy a new vent boot to
replace the old one. But if the nails
Problem: When gasket- at the base are missing or pulled
type plumbingvent free and the boot is in good shape,
ftashing leaks,

the

.dp;ili.;;it;

or

cracked gasket
missing or loose

r
,r
replace
them

!a, the
;
with

rubber-

washered screws used for metal

nails. roofing systems. you']l find

them

with the rest of the screws. You'll have


to work neighboring shingles free on both sides. If you
don't have extra shingles, be careful when you remove
shingles so they can be reused. Use a flat bar to separate
Solution: Replace the old boot. Screw the base to the roof with
the sealant between the layers. Then you'll be able to rubber-washered screws. Don't use naits. They'tt on[y work
at any home center

drive the flat bar under the nail heads to pop out the nails,

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loose over time.

Roof vents
Check for cracked housings on plastic
roof vents and broken seams on
metal ones. You might be
tempted to throw caulk at the

problem, but that solution

won't last long. There's


really no fix other than
replacing the damaged
vents. Also look for pulled
or missing nails at the base's
bottom edge. Replace them
with rubber-washered screws.
In most cases, you can remove
under
the shingles on both sides
nalls
l-1*Ei:P-9:t]!--,root
vents can crack
pull it free. There will be
vent
to
of
the
rlir..-o*i
"no
isnotthesolution nails across the top of the vent too.

llls'

this

time!

usually you can also work those loose


without removing shingles. Screw the bottom in place
with rubber-washered screws, Squeeze out a bead of caulk

beneath the shingles on both sides of the vent to hold the

Solution: Replace the old vent. lf you're careful, you won't have

shingles down and to add a water barrier. That's much to remove any shingtes to slip out the old one and stide the new
one into place.
easier than renailing the shingles.

2a

luty/August2oog

thef amityhandyman.com

Leaky watls & dormers


Water doesn't always come

'

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{ --

in

at the

shingled surface. Often, wind,,... driven rain comes in from


**U above the roof, esPeciallY
around windows, between
corner boards and siding,

and throueh cracks

Eit[F" :..,

and

knotholes in sidins. Dormer


walls provide lots of spots

where water can dribble

down and enter the roof. Caulk


can be old, cracked or even
Problem: Water that
sneaks behind walts and
dormers dribbles down
into your house just like a
roof [eak.

missing between the corner


boards and between window
edges and siding. Water penetrates these cracks and works its

way behind the flashing and

into the house. Even caulk that looks intact may not be sealing against the adjoining surfaces. Dig around with a putty
knife to see if the area is sealed. Dig out any suspect caulk
and replace it with a siliconized latex caulk. Also check the
siding above the step flashing. Replace any cracked, rotted
or missing siding, making sure the new piece overlaps the
step flashing by at least 2 in. Ifyou still have a leak, pull the
corner boards free and check the overlapping flashing at the
corner. Often, there's old, hardened caulk where the two
pieces overlap at the inside corner.

Solution: Recaulk the corner f tashing. Lift the overtapping section,


clean it thoroughty and add a generous bead of fresh caulk underneath. Make sure the gap at the corner is f itted with cautk.

Step ftashing
Step flashing is used along walls that
intersect the roof, Each short sec-

tion of flashing channels water

over the shingle downhill


from it.

But if the flashing rusts


through, or a piece comes
loose, water will run right
behind it, and into the house
it goes. Rusted flashing needs

$i"' to

lilfi#*gsF

ie replaced. That"-.u.r, Itffi.*f


siding f
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removing shingles, prying

down and channel

waterlntothewa*. that simple. But


and

it

ftrretamityhandyman.com

Besafeuponthat roof.Gotothefamitv- |

safety.

l,handvman.com/roof

30

occasionally

roofer forgets to nail one in


eventually siips down to expose the wail.

luLy/August2ooq thelamilyhandyman,com

piace

Solution: push a loose piece of step ftashing right back in ptace


and then secure it with caulk above and below.

Don't count on cautk!


cure a roof leak-at least for very long. You should
always attempt a "mechanica[" fix whenever possibte. That means replacing or repairing existing flashing instead of using any type of seatant. On[y use cautk for very sma[[
holes and when ftashing isn't an option.
Rarety

wiI caulk or roof cement

' Smatl hotes


Tiny holes in shingles are sneaky because they can
cause rot and other damage for years before you
notice the obvious signs of a leak. you might find holes left
over from satellite dish or antenna mounting brackets or
just about anything. And exposed, misplaced roofing nails
should be pulled and the holes patched.
Small holes are simple to fix, but the
fix isn'f to inject caulk in the hole.
You'll fix this one with flashing,

Brick chimneys
Att kinds of bad things can happen
around brick chimneys. ln fact, there
are far too many to cover in this
story. Flashing around chimneys can

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rust through if it's galvanized steet,


especiatly at the 9O-degree bend at
the bottom. A quick but fairty tongterm fix is to simply slip new flashing under the old rusted stuff. That
way any water that seeps through
wi[[ be diverted. The best fix, though,
is to cut a saw kerf into the mortar
and install new flashing. lf you want
to see what's involved, go to thefamityhandyman.com and type in
"chimney flashing."
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The Home ProjectCalc
gives you measurements in
Feet-lnch-Fractions and works as
a standard math calculator.

. Quickly calculate Linear, Area, and Volume dimensions


. Works in, and converts between, Yards, Feet, lnches, Fractions,
Decimals and Meters

. Dedicated functions give fast material quantities and costs for


Paint, Wallpaper, Tile, Carpet, Concrete and more!

We

want your feedback!

Hetp us improve The Family Handyman by sharing your opinion of this


and other articles. See p. 4 for details.

JuLylAuEUst

2oo9 3l

SirH#$

iny##
Tips for a fast breakup-even
if you're not a body buitder
ou might think that demolishing
concrete is backbreaking, brainless work.
But that's only half
true. There's more to it than
just swinging a sledgehammer.
And a bit of know-how can save
you lots of time and sweat and possibly a visit to the chiropractor's office. This
article will show you the key tips. Plus, we'll
offer some tool recommendations and a bit of
planning advice.

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editors@thefami[yhandyman.com

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Catculate the savings f irst


Tearing up concrete yourselfcan save
you a ton of money. Hiring a contrac-

tor just to demolish a 12 x 14-ft. patio


could cost you $1,400 or more. If you

do

it

yourself,

it'll

cost you only

about $400, including rental and disposal. That's a savings of about


$1,000. On the other hand, if you're

hiring a contractor to pour new concrete, doing the demo yourself could
actually cost you more. One contractor we spoke with said he would subtract just $200 from the cost of a new

patio if the homeowner removed the


old one-that wouldn't even cover
the cost of concrete disposal.

Choose your

Ptan your disposal strategy

weapon-sledge
or jackhammer

The surest way to decide whether

to use a sledgehammer or a jackhammer is to experiment a few


days before you begin full-scale
demolition. fust take a few whacks

at the slab with a sledgehammer.


Within 10 minutes, you'Il know
whether it's a job for a sledge or a
jackhammer. Consider renting an
electric jackhammer (975 per day)
to make the job easier. It won't save
you much time, but it's a lot easier
on your body.

If your slab is

large or extra
thick, rent a pneumatic jackhammer (9160 per day for a hammer, a
hose, bits and a trailer-mounted
compressor). It has much more

power than an electric jackhammer. But it's also heavy (90 lbs.)

and difficult to maneuver. Don't


automatically assume you should
rent this as your first choice-it's
overkill for most home concrete
breakup projects.

Rent a trash container with a gate so you can dump your wheelbarrow inside.
Tossing chunks over the side is hard work.

Concrete can't go in your trash can,


so check out your disposal options at
least a week ahead. Some concrete

recyclers (look in the yellow pages


under "recycling services") accept it
free or charge a small fee per load.
Most add an extra charge if the concrete contains steel mesh or rebar.

means you'll be paying the charges


for at least three loads and making at
least three trips, even if you have a
1-ton pickup truck.
Your other option is to rent a trash

container (check the yellow pages


under "waste disposal"). Don't guess
on the proper size. Instead, give the
Unfortunately, you won't know if waste haulers the dimensions and
yours has metal in it until you start thickness of your patio and IeI them
breaking it apart. So figure your total figure out the right size for your job.
price based on the higher rate. AIso Our hauier charged $325 for a trash
be aware that the typical L2 x'14-fL container with a walk-in gate (photo
patio weighs about 5,000 lbs. That above).
34

JutylAugust2oog thefamilyhandyman.com

A rented lackhammer powered by a

big compressor is the best option for


large or thick slabs. But a plain old
sledgehammer is fine for most jobs.

Round up a crew
This is one project where

it really pays to have extra

bodies around to do the heavy lifting. So plan ahead


and nail down firm commitments from friends who

owe you favors. Friends who or,rm heavy-duty wheelbar-

rows are especially valuable. Ideally, your crew will


consist of two to break up the concrete and a team of
two to four to haul the rubble away.

Don't just hammer-pry, too

Jackhammer tips

After you've covered the slab with plastic (p. 37), it's

Rental jackhammers come with an assortment of


bits, but only use the chisel-point bit. The point
concentrates the jackhammer's force and cracks

tempting to just start whaling away. Don't! The sand base


under the slab will absorb the energy from each blow.
You'll end up exhausted with very little to show for
it. Worse, you'll pulverize the top layer of the
slab instead of creating deep cracks.
The key to a quick job is a two-person team: one with a sledge or jackhammer; the other with a 5- to 6-ft.-long
pry bar, sometimes called a "San Angelo bar" (available
at some rental centers or at home centers for about $30J.
Start at the corners and work inward. If the concrete
doesn't crack with the first blow, aim your next hit a
few inches away. Never strike the same spot twice. That
just chips the surface, creating a cushion of fine rubble
over the slab, and makes it harder to break.

Break up concrete faster by forming a two-person team. With


one person prying up while the other strikes, concrete breaks
more easily.
36

JutylAugust2oog thefamityhandyman.com

the concrete faster than the wider bits can.


Here's an important jackhammer warning: If
you try to crack off large pieces, the jackhammer will literally drill itself into the concrete and get stuck. You'll spend more time
getting it unstuck than it takes to crack
more but smaller pieces. So move the
bit no more than 2 to 3 in. back from
the nearest crack before you hit the
trigger. As with a sledgehammer, ti.
breakup is faster and easier if
,f .r'rr.-ro'"t
Brr
you have a helper pry up with
t
a long bar as you work.

Take smatl bites with a jackhammer to crack the concrete.


lf you begin to driI a hole without creating a crack, STOP!

Otherwise, you'tt get the bit stuck in the concrete.

Stop ftying shrapnel


Fiying shards of concrete can damage siding, break glass
or even cut you. Rather than setting up plywood to protect windows and siding, roll 6-mil polyethylene (g26 at
home centers) over the patio or sidewalk. Leave it in place
while you hammer or jackhammer. The sheeting catches
all the shrapnel and traps most of the dust. Just be sure
to watch your step while walking on it-poly can be very
slippery.
Stop ftying chunks of concrete with a sheet of ptastic. Concrete
shrapnel can damage siding and break windows, and it's a real
chore to clean up.
thefamityhandyman.com

lutylAugust2OOg 37

Get a heavy-duty
hauler
For most jobs, a heavy-duty wheelbarrow is the best hauler for rubble.

Don't use a light-duty model-it


won't survive the day. And don't
haui big loads or you won't survive
the day. Ten fuli loads will wear you
out faster than 20 haif loads. If the

J
{
{

path to the trash container is uphiil,


consider renting a power wheelbarrow ($6S per day). U

\
I

Wewantvourfeedback!

-a'

-t

I L.laln
r< imnrnrro
Hetp rus
improve

Tha
Familv HandyllandvThe Family
man by sharing your opinion of this
and other artictes. See p. 4 for detaits.

-I

'tai*

thefamilyhandyman.com

.,f t

Replace your old stab with a brick or stone


patio. Get tons of tips at thefamityhandy-

man.com/patio,

!A:

Pour new concrete yoursetf and save big bucks.


See how at thefamityhandyman.com/

pourconcrete.

38

A rented power wheelbarrow makes rubble removat a breeze-especialty if you can find
someone else to do the loading.

JutylAugust2oog thefamilyhandyman.com

CE,I'ETIT

&

CONCEETE PNODUCTS"

Even duct tape can't repair concrete, that's why there's QUIKRETE@ Vinyl Concrete Patcher,
ls your concrete chipped, broken or cracked? With just a little prep, QUIKRETE Vinyl
Concrete Patcher bonds to just about any concrete or masonry surface and gives you
a smooth repair. For more easy ways to improve your home, visit www.quikrete.com,

I didn't

buy it-l buitt it!


qometimes, building what you

Jneed is smarter

than buying it:


You can save money, build a better
version or customize it to suit your
situation. If you've done just that-

built something you could have


bought-we want to see your photos.
If we choose it as the contest winner,

you'll get $500. Entering the contest


is easy. fust go to
thefamilyhandyman.com/myproiect.

Rott-out pickup bed


Danny Wittenberg considered buying a roll-out bed for his pickupuntil his wife saw the g700 price
tag. Undeterred, Danny decided to

make one. With steel rollers


mounted on a 2xG frame, the plywood platform glides out of the
pickup box like a big drawer.
Dowel legs support the extended
platform. The total materials bill
for Danny's clever roll-out was
about $150. Big savings, huppy
marriage.

Custom-sized
wine rack

oaa
i_r!q:if

Molly and Howard have an


alcohol problem. Not drinking it, but storing it. They
make their own wine, which

3
a

J*F

*:

means they have hundreds of

.;!.:*. I

re
*F- tr >,: : r.'l
rd
r rLil
*d-*r

i ;"f

bottles to store. They found


lots of wine racks for sale
online, but none that would
fit on their wine shelves. So
they bought a few pine boards
and a big box of screws and
made their own simple, sturdv racks. i

fr
,*

No purchase necessary to enier or win. purchase w lL not improve your chances of wjnning.
Contest is open to iegal residents age lB or otder of the U.S., its tetritories and
possessions. Contest closes at ll:59 p.m. (ET) on October 31, 20O9. To enter and for official

#i
rules, visit thefamityhandyman.comlmyproject. We reserve the right to use any entry in
the magazine and pay you gt 00 for the photo. VOtD WHERE pROHtBtTED. Co;test !pon_
sored by The Reader's Digest Association, lnc., publlsher of Ihe Family Handyman.

thef amityhandyman,com

Juty,/August2OOg

43

de[&arswvy
2-,

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Fim'*i"'""

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.i,'si '4{$g}*;55 *.

rch-top windows and a custom door give this shed a


high-quality look that belies its low cost and simple
construction. The panelized construction technique
means you could build the parts in your garage on a rainy
weekend and then haul them to the site for assembly. Modest
finishes like OSB siding and composite trim and fiberglass

Modutar
construction
and inexpensive
materiats make
this shed easy
to buitd and
easy to afford

shingles help keep the materials cost low. And you,ll save
hundreds of doilars by providing your own labor to build the door and windows. The modular construction and wood platform foundation mean you can
construct this shed almost anywhere, even on remote or sloping sites.
In this article, we'll show you the basics of how to build the shed and install
the windows and doors. Then go to thefamilyhandyman.com/dollarsavvyshed
for more wall and roof framing details and info on building the brackets.

Save up to 53,000 on this shed


We designed this shed with money saving in

mind, spending just $1,BOO on materia[s.


Without the cost-cutting tricks we used, the
total cost coutd have been more than twice

as much. Even the dimensions are designed

to make the most efficient use of [umber.


Here are some of the ways you'll save with
our shed design.

OSB SIDING
Siding panets madd
from oriented strand
board cost far less than
sotid wood or plywood
panels, and come preprimed,
saving you money and labor. Since
the panels are also structural, you
don't need an additional layer of
sheathing under the siding. You'Il
save about $5OO over the cost of
cedar plywood siding.

OMPOSITE TRIM
Composite trim saves you
money and time right away. lt's
less expensive than solid wood
(you'l[ save up to gt60), it
doesn't have knots or other
defects to work around, and it
comes preprimed and ready for
paint. And it'l[ save you time and
money in the long run since it
hotds paint better and longer

zU

zU
I

o
F

!
c

than even the best-quatity

ro

exterior wood.

J
I
U
l
N

FOUNDATION
Hiring a concrete contractor to pour a slab for this

shed coutd cost you


$1,00O, but the materials
for this wood foundation
witl set you back onty
about $250. P[us, a wood
foundation is easy to build
even on sites that slope or
have difficult access.

EASY ARCH.TOP

COST.CUTTING
CUSTOM DOOR
Materiats for this door cost about $14O.
A simitar style prehung exterior door
can easily cost more than $1,00O. Of
course, this door isn't as weather-tight
as a prehung door, and it wouldn't work
on your house, but it's perfect for a
shed. You get the look of an expensive
custom wood door without the cost.

J
co

WINDOWS

lf you've ever priced arch-top windows,


you know how expensive they can be.
Even windows that don't operate are tike[y to cost $4OO apiece. But you can simulate the look of an expensive window
without spending a ton of money. These
windows cost about $60 each and are
easy to buitd with materiats you'tt find at
any home center or [umberyard.

iU

Y
rI
U

o
E.
U

.9

i5

by Jeff Gorton
editors@thefamityhandyman.com
thef amityhandyman.com

Juty,/Au8ust2OOg

45

1
I

Nait siding to the wa[[s before you stand them up. Cover the
horizontal seam with metal Z-f lashing to keep out water.

eritO the end watls on the ptatform, using chatk lines as a


euide. Start by naiting together the perimeter and adding the

center stud. Then measure from the center stud to mark for the
remaining studs.

Money, time and tools


We found all the materials to build this shed at or.rr local
home center. Not including thc optional cupola, ihe shed

materials cost us $1,800. Most

of the coustruction

is

make sure the gravel beds in the two trenches are level with
each other.
Cr-rt the treated 6x6s to 12 ft. and set them on the gravel so
they're parallei and the outside edges are 6 ft. apart. On
sloped ground, you'll have to raise the 6x6 on the low side

straightforward and requires onl1, standard carpentry tools


and a circular saw. To build the nindows and door, you'11
also need a table saw, power miter saw and router. We used until it's level with the adjacent 6x6. Do this by stacking
a Kreg pocket hole iig and pocket hole screws to assemble treated 2x6s, 4x6s or 6x6s on top of the treated 6x6 to reach
the door and windows. With a helper or two, you could have the right height. Use a 4-ft. or longer level to make sure the
the platform and shell built in two or three days. Then 6x6s are level and level with each other. Finally, square the
expect to spend four or five more davs completing the sid- 6x6s by adiusting the position of one 6x6. Slide the 6x6 back
and lbrth, not sideways, until the diagonal measurements
ing, trim, doors, windows and roofing.
from opposite corners are equai. Build the platform with
treated 2x1s,24 in. on center, and cover it with treated 3/4Getting started
A few weeks before 1,ou start, check with your local build- in. plyn'ood (rigure e).
ing department to see whether a permit is reqr.rired and to
find out how close to the lot lines you can build. Then call Buitd the watts
You can build the walls on any flat surface, but the shed
811 for instructions on how to locate br-rried utilitv lines.
The first step is to set a platform is ideal. Snap chalk lines on the plywood deck,

pair of treated 6x6s on


gravel beds as a foundation
for the shed piatfonn.
When von've decided on a
shed location, dig two
trenches 16 in. r'r,ide, 12 in.
deep and 13 ft. long. Center
the trenches 66 in. apart.

Fill tlie trenches rvith a


3-in. layer of gravel and
conpact it with a hand
tamper. Repeat this process
until the trench is full. Use

[i rref am tvnandvman.coml
,7 guito tnit hu*some cu'pota. For com- | a ler,el
i

pteteptansandhow-tophotos,goto I

15hefamitvhandvman.com/cupota.

46

ar-rci long board to


level the top layer of gravel. If the ground is flat, also

.luly/August2ooq thefamityhandyman.com

3-1.12 i:n.

from the edges of the platform, to indicate the

inside edge of the walls. Measure to make sure the lines are
parallel and Bg in. apart. Then chalk a line down the center
(enoto t). You'll use this line to make sure the angled top
plates meet in the center.
Use dimensions from Figurec (online) to snap lines for the
peak. Then cut 2x4s to fit inside the lines and toe-screw
them to the plvwood to hold them in place while you fill in
the center studs (Photol) and nail on the siding (ptrotoz), Toescrew from the outside so the screws will be accessible after
the siding is installed.
When vou nail on the siding, make sure it overhangs the
franring on each side by 3-L12 irl. and that you've trimmed
off the top corner to foliow the slope of the angled top plate
(Rtrotoz). Attach the siding with 2-in. galvanized or stainless
steel ring-shank siding nails placed B in. apart along studs

ffi

1/2" PLYWOOD

Figure A

2X4 BAFTERS

Shed

Lir\

OveratI dimensions:
8' x 12' x l1' 6" tall

COI\4POSITE

TRIM

SHOP-I\4ADE

WINDOW

2x4 WALL
FRAMING

SHOP.MADE
DOOR

DOLLAR SAVVY

Figure B
Ftoor framing ptan

--_

WOOD FOUNDATION
Save $75O over the cost
of a contractor-installed
concrete foundation.

Ft nef a m i tv rra n d v m a n.co ml

12"x16"x156"

TREATED
2x6 JOISTS

GRAVEL TRENCH

24',OC
TREATED

TREATED
3/4" PLYWOOD

d visitourweb'sitefordJtailson I
I buitdingtheshed,windows,door I
I andbrackets.Gotothefamityhandy- |
Lnan.com/doltarsavvyshed. J

6x6

thef amityhandyman.com

luty/Aueust2OOg 47

2 S.r"* the front watlto the ptatform to hotd it square white 1/, mathe soffit to the roof frame while it's on the platform.
r) you add the siding. Atign the bottom ptate with a chatk tine t'f fnat will save you the hassle of upside-down nailing in a
confined spot.
to make sure it's straight.
and 6 in. apart along the edges of the
sheets. You'Il have to nail blocking
between the studs to sr-rpport the top
edge of the siding and the Z-flashing.

DOLLAR SAVVY
OSB SIDING
It looks [ike wood siding
but costs a lot [ess.
Save up to $500.

Complete the siding, then remove


the toe-screws and move the wali aside to make room for
constructing the opposite -"vall. Use the same chalk line template and process to br-rild the opposite end wall.
Figute c (online) shows framing details for the front r.t'all.
Mark the curves on the 2x10 header pieces using the trammel setr.rp shown in Photo 12 and Figure G [online). Cut them
with a jigsaw. When you're done building the front and back
walls, set them aside so volr can use the platform to build
the roof sections.

Buitd the roof in two pieces


It's unconventional, but br-rilding the roof upside down on
the platform has advantages. First, you avoid a lot of Iadder
work. And second, voLr can nail the soffit material to the
overhangs easily without having to work overhead ancl in
cramped spaces. You do have to take a little extra care to
make sure the framing is square and the perimeter 2x4s are
perfectly straight before nailing on the soffit, though.
Start by cutting out the rafters using the pattern in FigureD
(online) as a gr,ride. Omit the bird's-mouth from four rafters
and use these on the ends. Cut the 2x4s for the ridge and
subfascia to length and mark the rafter positions on them.
Line r-rp the rafters with the marks and nail through the ridge
and sr-rbfascia with 16d nails to secr-lre them. When the roof
frame is complete, line up the subfascia with the chalk line
on the platfbrm and tack it in three or four places with toe
screws to hold the frame straight rvhile vou install the soffit.
Also square the frame bv making sttre diagonal measnrements from opposite corners are eqr.rai. Then tack one corner

to hold
4a

it

square. Finallv, nail the soffit to the roof frame

JutylAlgust2OO9 thefamilyhandyman.com

StanO the watts, starting with the back watt. Then add the
sides and finalty the front. Nai[ each wall to the platform as
you go and lock the corners together by naiting through the over-

f,
J

hanging siding into studs.

with 6d galvanized box naiis. We used 12-in.-wide fiber


cement siding for soffit material. Mount an inexpensive carbide blade on your circular saw to cut the fiber cement. Set
the roof panel aside and build the other half of the roof using
the same techniques.

Stand the wa[[s


Start bv moving one of the end patrels into place and resting

the bottom plate of the wall on the platform. Tip the wall
up and secure it r,r'ith a temporary angled 2x4 blace. Line up
the botton plate with the chalk line and drive a few 3-in.

DOLLAR SAVVY
COMPOSITETRIM
It's better than real wood
and saves you money, too.

Oatner some stooges to hetp tift the roof sections into ptace.
Don't forget to toenail every rafter to the wa[[ before you
start the roof sheathing.

4,
\J

vart< rather than measure for the notches. lt's faster and
more accurate. Start by cutting the gable end trim a little long
and cutting the angte on the top. Then tack it up para[[e[ to the

]f
f

end rafter and mark for the bracket notch.

We

want your feedback!

clear pine at a home center and spent $120 for the boards.
Photos I - l0 show how to build the door and mount it to a
hold the bottom of trim piece with hinges. The door consists of two layers of
other articles. See p. 4 for details.
the wall in posi- 3/4-in.-thick boards that overlap at the corners to add
tion. Don't worry about getting the wall plumb yet. It'll be strength. Rip 1x6 boards Io 4-L12 in. on a table saw for the
automatic when you stand the back wall and connect the outside layer (FigureF, online). We assembled each layer with
pocket screws before gluing the two layers together, but if
corners,
Stand the back wall. Then align the corner of the side and you don't own a pocket hole setup, you could simply screw
back walls and nail them together. With a helper on the out- through the overlapping boards instead. Complete the door
side ofthe shed to push ifnecessary, line up the inside edge frame. Then cut the 4 x B-ft. grooved plywood to fit the
of the bottom plate with the chalk line and nail it to the plat- lower recess, and cut a piece of t/+-in. acrylic sheet to fit the
form. Continue around the building, standing the opposite upper recess. Secure the plywood and acrylic sheet with
end wall and finally the front wall. Nail the corners togeth- 1.12-ira. x Ll2-ir'. moldings nailed to the inside. Sand the
er, making sure that the top plates of adjoining walls are edges of the door flush.
We've simplified the door-hanging process by mounting
flush with each other.
the door to a 1-Ll2-irr -thick trim piece and then screwing
the trim to the wall. An easy way to mark and cut matching
Hoist the roof panets into position
The roof panels are heavy and a bit awkward, so round up hinge recesses in both the door and the trim is to clamp the
three strong helpers for this part of the job. Move the panels trim alongside the door, making sure it extends 1/B in.
into position and iean them against the front and back walls. beyond the top of the door. Then mark the hinge cutout on
Then set up ladders inside the building for two helpers and both the door and the trim at the same time. If you have a
push one of the panels up to them. Slide the panel up the router, use a hinge-mortising bit (or straight bit) to cut the
roof until the bird's-mouths drop over the top plate of the hinge recesses (Photo l0). Otherwise, use a sharp chisel.
wall. Make sure the 2x4 ridge is perfectly aligned with the Screw the hinges to the door and trim (Photo 10, inset). To
peak of the wall. Then secure the roof panel with a pair of hang the door, line up a temporary 2x4 with the bottom of
toenails through each bird's-mouth into the top plate of the the siding and screw it to the wall. Then rest the door on the
wall. Repeat the process on the opposite side (ptroto o). 2x4 and drive 3-in. screws through the trim into the framing
Complete the roof framing by nailing the 2x4 ridges togeth- to hold the door in place (ptrotott). Finish the door installation by adding the top and side trim pieces.
er and adding Iwo 2x4 collar ties, 4 ft. apart (rigure A).
Help us improve The Family Handyman
by sharing your opinion of this and

Buitd the door

screws or 1.6d nails

through the plate to

Buitd the windows

Ordering a prehung wood door like this from the lumber- This is a good rainy day project since you'll build these
yard could cost as much as $1,000, but you can build one parts in your garage or shop. Photosl2-14 show how to cut
suitable for a shed at a fraction of the cost. We purchased the curved window top and how to assemble the window.
50

Jutylaugust2oog thefamilyhandyman.com

each

;:n*"itfl":i*n
frame.

'''tui'J:ili*""T='?5""'l"J;h"

9 :;m"*ffii$:lHj:il:i',T[T:\i?':ji"""'"TT'""s"?ffii

ter to hotd them in place.

DOLLAR SAVVY
SHOP-BUILT DOOR
Buitd this door and save

$800 over the cost of a


simitar prehung door.

O iifi '[x:". ff x'"l:?.'


ilJiHI ?: ii#in Et:,il"-: ::i: ii"
trim piece extends
above the top
you
1

l,/B in.

clamp it.

Figure

of the door before

c (online) shows details for the marking jig. photo 12

shows hor.l, to r-rse this setup to drar,v the curves for. the r,i indow pieces. Next cut the side pieces (FigureF, online). Set the
side pieces in place over the top of the header and mark the
angled cuts (Phototr). Finish the curved trim piece by first
cutting the angles on each end, and then sar,r,ing the curves
with a jigsaw and sanding them smooth. Use the marking jig
to lay out the cr,rrved brace, too (FigureG, online).
Cut the sill piece and assemble the windor,r,s with pocket

screws. Using a router

II I
f

C"nt"r the door on the opening and screw through the trim

to attach it. Support the door with a temporary 2x4 screwed


to the ptatform. Attach the opposite side trim and finatty the top.

frame, recessed side down, over a piece of acrylic sheet and


trace the shape with a permanent marker. Cut the curve witlr

a fine-tooth jigsaw biade and the straight sections with a


fine-tooth blade in a table saw or circuiar saw.
Prime and paint the window and let it dry. Then apply a
thin bead of clear silicone in the recess and embed the
acrvlic sheet in it. Secure the acrylic sheet with glazing
points. Let it set up overnight. We cut the grid pieces from
31

-ira.

x Llz-i.n. parting stop and glued them to the acrylic

with a 3/B-in. rabbet blt, rout a with clear silicone caulk.

3/B-in.-deep recess on the back of the rvindor,rr to receive the


114-in. Plexiglas acrylic sheet (photo ta). Set the n,indow

A temporary sr-rpport makes it simple to install the window. Level a 2x4 and screw it to the wali 2 in. belolv the
thef ami tyhandyman.com

Juty,/August2OOg

53

t'ot

I't

N
i{

-lr,r,.:r,

I ]
I&

window trim using a simpte


Use the same setup for marking the curved 2xl0
Varf< out the arched

trammel. I Q
header IrJ

Varf and cut the side trim pieces. Then set them in ptace
on the top prece to mark the angled cuts.

and the curved bracket support.

DOLLAR SAVVY
CUSTOM WINDOWS
Save more than $3OO
by buitding your own

windows.

ttl
;ilr
llF

\<-:

| /1
lt?

A=se^bte the window frame with pocket screws, then


a recess in the back for the acrylic sheet.

rout I f, n"tt the window on the temporary 2x4 and screw it to the
I J watt. Center the window on the opening before driving the
screws.

window opening. Then rest the r,r,indow on the 2x4 and cen- shows ho'uv to notch the fascia boards to fit around the
ter it in the opening before driving screws to secure it (Photo brackets. Keep the 1x2 shingle nolding flush to the top of
15). Use

caulk to

fill

the gaps left bv the grooved siding,

the roof pl1'wood.

lnstatI the exterior trim

Roof, stain and paint the shed

A and Figure E (online) shou' the exterior trim details.


Start by mounting the brackets. Line up the outside edges of
the lower brackets with the face of the siding, push them
tight to the soffit and screw them to the wall. Center the top
bracket on the peak and push it tight to the soffit, Starting
with the pieces that go under the brackets, lvrap the corners
r,r,ith the corner board. Overlap the front corner board onto
the side corner board (Figure E, online), Get readv for loofing
by adding the fascia boards and shingie molding. Photo 7

Complete the shed by installing shingies and finishing the


exterior. For information on how to install shingles, go to
thefamilvhandvman.com and search fbr "roofing."
Prime and paint the doors and windows before installing
them, then yon onlv need to caulk and fill nail holes before
roiling an additional coat ofpaint onto the flat surfaces. The
LP SmartSide panel siding, the composite fascia and cor-

Figure

54

Juty/August2oog thetamilyhandyman.com

ners. and the fiber cement soffit were all preprimed and
required only tr,tro coats of paint to finish.
f-I

.a

6.._

't
k-,

Rental tools that save time and toil


oing things yourself is sup- gain. The right equipment also lets you on actual experience. Overall, each
posed to save money. So start- tackle jobs that you would otherwise machine did its particular job as advering a job by spending money have to pay a pro for. And don't forget tised. Here are our favorites:
Vl
mieht seem like a the fun factor. Some of the tools we
on rental equipment might
step in the wrong direction. But before tried are more fun-and a lot cheaper
trip to
you bypass your local rental center,
We want your feedback!
-than an all-expense-paid
consider how much time and strain Vegas or Disneyland.
Help us improve The Family Handyman
We rented the most popular outdoor
by sharing your opinion of this and
you can save with the right tools. You
other articles. See p.4 for detaits.
might find that spending $50 to avoid power equipment and put it through its
10 hours ofbackbreaking labor is a bar-

56

JuLylAugust2oog

thetamityhandyman.com

paces so we could give you tips based

CAUTION:
Be careful when using a chain saw from the tift,
Position the bucket so you don't hotd the saw any higher
than necessary or lean outward from the bucket, Cut
stowly and make sure that fatting branches won't tand
on the machine or stide down the boom. Wear comptete
protective gear, inctuding hard hat, goggtes, chaps, teather

gloves and steel-toe boots. lf you're unsure of how to trim


a tree, call in a pro. And stay away from power lines!

atja

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Boonr

tift

Szooperday

A boom lift can take you to new heights into the air and pivot 360 degrees. or asphalt by placing large scraps of
to trim trees, paint your exterior or Picking the right parking place is criti- wood under the outriggers. Hook up
apply siding and soffit material. Even if cal. You'll need firm, level ground, 20 your safety harness, hop into the buckyou climb iadders like a monkey, this ft. of clear overhead space to raise the et, and take a few minutes to familiarmachine will still save you tons of bucket and s ft. of clear space around ize yourseif with the operating contime. Plus, it's much safer than working the sides for the outriggers. Since you'll trols. There are fast and slow icons on
on a ladder. If you rent it for a week, be towing it into position with your the controls. You'll want to use the
expect to pay about 9800. Make sure truck (it's too heavy to move by hand), slow buttons until you get used to operthe rental fee includes a safety harness, plan your route to minimize lawn dam- ating the boom. The battery-powered
or rent a harness separately.
age. Then unhitch it from your truck boom will run for about eight hours
A typical boom can hoist you 37 ft. and drop the outriggers. Protect grass before needing a recharge.
thef amltyhandyman.com

JutylAugust2oog

37

Power trencher
Sl00 for 4 hours
Digging a trench for cable or gas lines means hours or days
of hard labor. But a power trencher can do all that digging
for you in a fraction of the time. This trencher can dig
down 24 in. (other models can dig to 36 in.) and is self-propelled, so you don't have to pull

Steering it around curves is


still a workout, however. AIso be
aware that rocky soil and tree
Reserve the machine
roots can jam the trencher and
you want a few days in
advance. Popular equipcause the tires to dig ruts in the
ment is in scarce supply,
grass. So don't try to power your
especially on weekends.
jam.
Shut down
way through a
the unit, clear the iam and then
restart. On hills, start at the top and work your way down.

it.

tip

However, before you start ripping up your yard, call att to


get all the utility lines marked (go to call8tt.com for more

information). Be sure to call at least a few days ahead.

Posthote digger
S50 for 2 hours
Digging postholes for a fence or footing holes for a deck is
usually the most time-consuming, backbreaking part of the
project. The solution is a power posthole digger-but not
just any model. "TWo-man" diggers that are supported by
hand are hard to handle. They toss you and your partner
around, especially in hard soil. A one-person trailer-mounted model (shonrn above) is much easier to use. Just move it
into position, start it up and tip the auger into the soil. The
weight of the machine keeps it drilling straight donrn with
minimal guidance from you. But you'll need extra muscle to
move it to the next hole, especially if you're on a hill. Use
your lawn tractor or truck if you're working solo. Or, remove
the auger to lighten the load and move it by hand. Always
block the wheels on hills before drilling. It takes longer to
move the unit than it takes to drill holes. If you're drilling
on a flat surface, plan on eight holes per hour.

Backpack blower
S25 for 2 hours
A typical electric leaf blower throws out about 70 cu. ft. of
air per minute (cfm). A commercial-grade backpack unit
throws out an enormous 465 cfm. With all that extra
power, you can clear leaves faster, of course. But a backpack blower will also do things a smaller blower can't: It
will peel wet leaves off the ground, blast out debris that's
stuck in cracks and move a mountain of leaves in one pass.
And with the gas engine strapped to your back, you can do
it all more comfortably than with a handheld model.

IihefamiUnandyman.com

fi

Revive a dutt tawn

L:hef

58

Juty/August2oog

thefamilyhandyman.com

with

a rented aerator. See step-by-step instructions

amilyhandyman.com/revivegrass.

at

liitr"lmB Hrinrler

535 for 2 hours

There's no need to pay a pro $150 or more


to grind out a stump. With a rented stump

grinder, you can do it yourself in a few


minutes. For a stump that's no more than
1B in. in diameter, rent a light-duty grinder

that's mounted on a trailer. For bigger


stumps, rent a heavy-duty seif-propelled
monster like the one shown here (gB0 for
two hours). Make sure you remove any
rocks around the stump to avoid breaking
the teeth on the grinding wheel (the rental
will charge you big bucks for broken
teeth). Work the grinding wheel side-toside and advance slowly over the stump.
Then repeat the process, digging deeper
each time. In most situations, two hours is
center

plenty of time to pull the grinder home,


chew up the stump and return the grinder.

.Hdatk-hehinrJ

lsader

Sl20 for 4 hours


A typical front-end loader

makes quick work

of moving

piles of gravel, sand and dirt. But it won,t fit through most
fence gates or other tight spots. Worse yet, the wheels dig
into your lawn every time you make a turn. Instead, rent a
walk-behind, track-style machine with a loader attachment.
Unlike other loaders, this one is easy to master-you,ll operate it like a veteran after only a few minutes of practice. This
version (the Toro Dingo) fits through a 35-in. opening and
runs on grass-friendly rubber tracks. The bucket can move
tons of material in a four-hour rental period. Follow the safe-

ty directions for the maximum bucket lift height, or the unit

can tip over (don't ask how we learned this). The bucket is
great for moving gravel or soil but not for digging. If you
want to dig holes, rent a backhoe attachment instead.

ffinush f,uttf.ir
550 for 4 hours
If you've left "the back +0" unmowed for too long

and

Mother Nature is taking over, don't waste time-and pos-

sibly wreck your lawn mower-by mowing down the


brush. Instead, rent a machine designed specifically for
clearing tall weeds and saplings (up to 1-1l2-in. in diameter). This self-propelled monster knocks the brush over
and whacks it to bits with its machete-like blade. It moves
quickly, even at its lowest speed (t.B mph), so you can
clear a large area in a few hours.
tyhandyman.com
-[inetamt
Wash siding, concrete, decks and

Llor

more with a rented pressure washer.


tips, Co to thefamilyhandyman.com/pressurewasher.

t h e la m i I y h a n d y m a n. c o

JutylAugust2OOg

l
59

Pro-grade chain saw


565 per day
If you only have one tree to fell and cut up, it's certainly not
worth investing in a $350 chain saw. And you'll be sorely
disappointed if you attempt the task with a small, underpowered chain saw So rent a pro model for the entire day for
only $65. It'll have more power, cut faster and tire you less.
For chain saw safety tips, go to thefamilyhandyman.com and
search for "chain saw safety."

Weed trimmer
with a brush btade
S30 for 2 hours
If you want to cut saplings and brush without mowing
down everything else, rent a commercial-duty trimmer
with a brush blade. It will slice through saplings up to
1.-1.12 ir'. in diameter. The shoulder harness carries the

Itnetamityhandyman.com
I
how

with rented scaffotding. See


I
choose and set up the components at thefamilyhandVman.com/scaffotdl

Uat<e trign-altitude iobs safer and easier

f]o

weight of the gas motor.


lust tap the blade against the base of the sapling. Don't
swing it like an ax-that can destroy the drive shaft. To
avoid bogging down the machine, make repeated jabs
rather than a single cut. If you have a large area to clear,
rent the trimmer for a whole day (about $50).

Get what you pay for


You can rent most power equipment for two- or four-hour periods or by the day.
Here are some tips to help you make the most of the rental period:

Ask about the cost of a trailer. lt's usuatly not included in the rental price. lf
you use your own trailer, make sure it's

done. That can eat up 30 minutes or


more of your rentat time.
Ask about delivery services. Having the

rental center deliver and pick up the


machine may cost $85 or more. But
since the rental period won't include
drive time, toading or unloading, you
have more time to actually use the
equipment. Delivery service may save
you money in the long run.
Make sure the rental center staffers

rated to handle the weight of the


machine and that your truck (and
hitch) can tow the [oad.

Remember that the rental period


includes your drive time to and from
your proiect. lf the machine requires a
trailer, also factor in time to unload the
machine and reload it when the job is

60

JutylAugust2009 t

efa

m I ly h a n d y m a n. co m

show you how to start and use the


equipment. Then try it yoursetf before
you drive away. That way, you avoid
learning and making mistakes during

the rentaI period.

Be ready to use the machine the


minute you get home. You can waste
a lot of money letting the rental
equipment sit idte while you mark
posthote locations or clear rocks away

from tree

stumps.

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by Etisa Bernick
thefamityhandyman.com

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lO sensibte ways to save

money & stitt keep cool

staying cool is expensive. In a hot climate like Texas, the average family spends
about $600 a vear on cooling. In the Midwest, it's about g300. But costs vary a lot
within regions and even within a singie neighborhood. your home may cost gz00
to keep cool while a similar home next door costs half that. This article will help
you make your home the low-cost energy leader on the block. our focus is on cutting cooling costs, but many of these tips will save you money on your heating too.
we include upfront costs and payback for each of our tips, but the actual figures
depend on your individual house, region, climate, Iiving habits and electric rates.

thef ami lyhandyman.coh

JutylAu8ust2OOg

63

%#

T Reptace your old air

conditioner

Replacing a 10-year-old window or central AC unit with an


Energy Star model can cut your cooling costs by 30 to 50
percent and save you enough over the new unit's lifetime to offset its purchase price. This is especially true if you live in a hot, humid climate.
Central AC units are rated for efficiency
according to their Seasonal Energy-

Efficiency Ratio (SEER). Window


units are rated according to their
Energy-Efficiency Ratio (EER). The
SEER/EER rating is listed on the Energy

Guide label (below). The higher the


number, the more efficient the unit. If
you double your SEER (or EER), you can
cut your AC operating costs in half. To
find the rating on an older unit, check the
data label or plug the model number into the
online CEE-ARI database at energystar.gov on
the Central Air Conditioners page. New units
are required by law to have a SEER of at least
13 and an EER of B. Central AC units manufactured from 1992 through 2005 have a SEER of
about a 10, and older models are at 6 or 7.

AC shopping

tips

Buy an Energy Star-rated central


AC unit with a SEER of 14 or higher
(especially if you use your AC a tot).
Buy the right-size central AC unit by
making sure your contractor per-

forms a thorough cooling load


analysis on your home. Too many
contractors simp[y choose a unit
that's the same size as the old one.
ln many cases, the old one is oversized, so it wastes etectricity.
Replace the entire unit, not just the
outside condenser. lf you don't
replace the inside coit and/or
blower fan, you won't get the rated
efficiency.
Buy a unit with eco-friendly coolant
(R41A "Puron") since R22 (Freon)
wilt be phased out of production in
2OlO. lf you get stuck with an old
Freon unit, recharging the system
witl be very expensive (not to mention environmenta[[y harmfu[).

COST: Window units range from $250 for 6,00o


to $75O for 24,OOO BTUs. Replacing an otd central-air system typicatty costs about $3,0OO, but it can
BTUS

run as high as $lO,OO0.

PAYBACK: The older your system and the


more you use it, the larger your energy savings witt be with a new unit. Replacing a
SEER 7 unit with a SEER 14.5 unit that
lompare lho EnEy Emciency ot tis
nondtknq with Oth6F Blm Yil Bu!

costs $3,000 witl save you about $7OO a


year and pay for itself in five years.
Calculate your payback with the AC sav-

,:1'j

_!

:'

1-:

"-f.:.., , '',.

ings catculator at energystar.gov.


Use the Energy Star savings calcu-

DIY success story


"My neighbor complained for years
that my 22-year-old AC unit was too
noisy. To keep the peace, I decided to
replace it. The otd unit turned out to be
a SEER 6. The new Unit iS a SEER 14
and very quiet. My neighbor is now
happy and so am l-my summer e[ectric bi[[s are half of what I was spending with the old unit."
Gene Hamolka

Tell us your success story


Paying higher upfront costs for the most
efficient unit possible (SEER l4 or higher)
makes sense in hot climates since the initial investment witl be paid back in energy
savings over time. lt makes less sense in

coo[er climates.

64

luty/August2oog

thetamltyhandyman.com

and we'll pay you $lOO if we publish it.


Whether it's a repair, an improvement
or iust a tip, send it to mystory@
thefami lyhandyman.com.

lator at energystar.gov to figure out


whether it makes financial sense to
replace your AC, and get a tist of

the most energy-efficient AC units.


Check for local, state and federal
rebates on higher efficiency units at
dsireusa.org.
lf you live in the Southeastern
United States, consider a heat
pump, which moves air more efficient[y than a conventional AC unit
in areas with high humidity. lf you
live in the Southwest, consider an
evaporative "swamp" cooler, which
uses 75 percent less energy than
conventional AC and costs about
half as much to instatl. For more
information, go to energystar.gov.

Y
J
I

Switch to CFLs

You already know that compact fluo-

rescent lightbulbs cut Iighting


costs, but they cut cooling costs

)N

J-

(n

too. That's because, unlike incandescents, they give offvery

little

heat. Ninety percent of the electricity used by an incandescent

bulb is converted to heat rather


than light. That extra heat means
extra cooling expenses.

COST: $3 per butb.

PAYBACK:

Less than a year.

lnstall a
programmab[e
thermostat

Ti#

;1T,:",T::l1"i.Tr,

your cooling system four to six


degrees warmer when you're

-tt

away at work or on vacation

I
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N

If your home was built in the past 10


it probably has well-sealed
ductwork. But if you live in an older

home, 10 to 40 percent of your cooling


dollars is lost through gaps in the duct
joints. This cool air is wasted when the
ducts run through an attic, crawl space
or basement. This can be a tough DIy
project to do effectively since it takes a
professional to test for leaks before and
after the repairs. It you're game for seal-

thefamilyhandy-

if you use it for

AC ducting
years or so,

man.com and type "install programmable thermostat" in the search box.


COST: $50 to $i50.
PAYBACK: About a year

Fix leaks in

.J

can cut 5 to 20 percent off your


energy bill. This simple DIY project
takes less than an hour. For how-to

go to

and automatically lowering it to


78 degrees when you're home

instructions,

both

heating and cooting.

ing the ducts yourself, examine your

or i;W
AC 1=2
iiiterFmontnlv 27=
1- 'Clean
change

Dirty air filters are the No.

cause of air conditioning breakdowns and they cost abJut z


cent more
energy

in

,=11

per- ZZe
-""rrr'"L.
ffi

about $45 a year) in hot ciimates.


Change central AC furnace filters
t4
monthly during the summer. For how-to
information, go to thefamilyhandyman.com
and search for "replace AC filters." Most window AC
units have a removable filter behind the air inlet grille that you can take out
and rinse monthly.

u
Y

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J
m

ductwork for cracks, splits or bad connections and feel for escaping air when
your system is on. After you seal the
leaks, keep the ducts cool by insulating
them with R-6 or higher fiberglass duct
wrap if they run through a hot attic. For
more on sealing ducts, see the Sept. '08
issue, p. 72.

COST:

$3OO

to $I,OOO for a professional

to test and seal your heating and cooting


ducts. DIY duct sealing costs $20 for a 6Oyd. rolt of aluminum tape and $5 for an lloz. tube of sealant.
PAYBACK: Two to four years for professional duct seating and less than a year for
DIY sealing.
thetamilyhandyman.com

JuLy,/August2OOg

65

ffi

Tune and clean


your AC regularty
X

A poorly maintained air conditioner uses 10 to 30 percent


more energy and has a shorter life. Central AC compressors last on average about 10 to 12 years. proper maintenance can extend that to Z0 years. It's important to have a
professional tune, clean and check controls and refrigerant levels on your central AC system every two to three
years. Ifyour refrigerant needs recharging, this correction
can improve efficiency by 20 percent. It's also important
to perform DIY maintenance each year. Several contractors told us that 90 percent of air-conditioner failures are
caused by a lack of maintenance. For a step-by-step guide
to DIY maintenance, go to thefamilyhandyman.com and
type "clean your AC condenser" or "clean a window air
conditioner" into the search box.
COST: Professionatty cteaning and servicing a central air conditioner costs $lOO to $25O.

PAYBACK:

This depends on the age of the unit and how dirty it


lf you haven't had your AC unit serviced in several years, having
a professional do a thorough tune-up could pay for itsetf in tess
than a year and extend the tife of your unit.
is.

We Want yOUf feedbdCk!

Hetp us improve The Family Handyman by sharing your opinion of our articles. See p. 4 for detaits.

n e;ve,r

fTO Y

h/tdl\/tnl
when pain gets in the way of doing the things you enjoy, try Aleve. 1nly Aleve* has
the strength to stop body, joint, back and arthritis paint all day with just two pilts.
It would take twice as many Advil or four times as many Tylenot to do that. For ait day
pain-free movement, nothing helps you move your body bexer than Aleve.

tttEvEB srDp

,@

nuy.r HealthCare

t fatttt/O

"Among OTC brands. tlJse as directed f0r minor arthriris pain.


Comparison t0 Advil and Exka Strengttl Tylen0l based 0n minimum label dosing for 24 hours. O 2009 Bayer Healthcare
LlC.

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2-314"

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lx6 x 21"

BASE

Rustic garden toolbox


r,.
you'll need
its
Jhis simple gardening toolbox

a 6-ft. 1x6, a 4-ft. 1x4 and You'll have to bend the handle to slip it
es,
gets
Lnatural charm from the branches a short length of 1.14-in, wood dowel, into the second hole.
Cut away any knobs on the branches
used for the sides and handle. When exterior wood glue and a handful of
you're searching for branches, choose 1-Sl8-in. deck screws. We used clear for the sides. Then attach them, keepgreen, freshly cut ones for strength and pine, but No. 2 pine or cedar will work ing the screws at least an inch from the
ends to avoid splits (Rtroto z). Finally,
flexibility. The only tools required are a fine too.
Cut the parts using FigureA as a guide. drill 1/4-in. holes through the handle
saw and a drill and maybe a knife to
Then screw the box together (ptroto t). ends and drive in the dowels to hold
whittle the handle ends.
Along with three 2S-in.-long branch- Whittle the handle ends to fit the holes. the handle in place (Photo3).
if

Screw the box together with deck


screws. Predritt and countersink the
screws to avoid splitting.

I
I

68

luty/August2oog

thelamllyhandyman.com

t)
G

Cut the branch ends to fit. Attach the


Q oriLt l/4-in. hotes through the handte
pieces to the sides of the tootbox with rJ ends and drive in the dowels to hotd
screws or nails. Predritt to avoid sptitting. the handle in place.

by Rick Muscoplat
editors@thefamilyhandyman.com

Pay promptly.
Save Sl5 to S50
Some companies offer attractive
incentives for paying the invoice
within 10 days, rather than taking
the full 30 days. We're not telling
you to pay your mortgage late so you

can pay the insurance company


early. But if your insurer offers a

Put the brakes on hish


auto insurance costs
Everybody wants to save on car insutance. But most people can't figure out
how to do it without either reducing coverage or increasing the deductibles.
We got some better advice from a seasoned insurance expert who's worked
with dozens of major insurance companies.
Insurance laws vary by state, so some of these cost-saving methods may
not apply in your area. But if you follow these tips, you should be able to
save an average of $300 per year, or possibly more, on your car insurance.
We'll work with a model of a two-car household with two 57-year-old adults
and one college-age driver. This household's annual premium is $2,300
based on one accident and one speeding ticket.

Pay in advance.
Save 560
You pay lofs extra if you're paying your

car insurance monthly. Find out the

least expensive pay-periodusually six months. If you have


the cash, you could save even
more money by paying the full

year's premium
(check

70

with your

July/August2oos

in

advance

agent).

thetamityhanoth>*Q

"prompt pay" discount (ask for one),


it may be worth your while to reprioritize your bill payment schedule. If
you're temporarily short on cash, it
may even make sense to pay with
your credit card.

rF
l

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la
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Complete a "senior
driver" training
refresher) course. Save 5200

-u
u

(and i

Most insurance companies offer a


count for each driver 55 and older who
takes an authorized driver safety educadis-

tion program (some states mandate this


discount). The initial course is eight

E
U
tD
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(,

hours, and some companies (and states) zU


z
allow you to take a four-hour online ver- UI

sion ($20 per driver). Classroom rates oF


vary. You'll be a safer driver and can
pocket the savings every year. For

it
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.9

Kid at co[[ege?
Save 5400
This one's a no-brainer. If your kid
is away at college, minus the family
car, your insurance rates will be
Iower. Tell your agent that your kid
is at school and work out arrangements for those few days when he
or she is home. If your student has a
car at school, you should still notiff
your agent. The rates may be lower
based on the school's location.

Change jobs

or retire?
Save 560
If you drive 20 miles to
work every day, you're
paying a higher premium than people who
drive only 5 miles. So if
you get a new job closer
to home, tell your agent

immediately. Also, if
you're lucky enough to
retire, tell your agent so
they can reclassifii you
as a "pleasure driver."
You'll see a drop in
your premiums in both
cases,

Track your tickets.


Save St00
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" on''' F'"FL3:- ,Ar.'
-",f
&
"d".s i
"": ftu'*7* ,.*o'n"o'lu,
traffic violation. But they're not
/ always so quick to reduce your pre- ' 'o"t
*t e,u^'e,"^i , rc,-rn'j,til'
"6on*unti!''
mium later when the violation falls off
".o'
-|".''.'"it/
*
**
^,'
Z your
",*0',r{"
of
the
dates
of
record.
So
;T;"0
keep
track
-" ,**'."5.j.- ,o$f,
;;;";;.
,."*:'
,
\

and increase your premium on


find a
he very next bill if thev
they tind
the

your *n9ff3"^*"9'
*"{15r*
record is "clean" (usually three years, but check with
your tickets and ask for a reduction once

your state's Department of Motor Vehicles).

Avoid smallclaims.
Save 5200

If you get a small

Shop earty.
Save 550
Everyone should shop

think twice about filing

around for new insurance


rates every three years.

dent or other
minor damage on an older car,
a claim and
getting it fixed. To avoid rate hikes,
it might be worth your while to just
Iive with it if there are no safety
issues. And if you have towing coverage on your policy and use it to

get your jalopy towed every six


months, be ready for a 10 percent

Juty/August2oog

thefamllyhandyman.com

companies

reward early shopping (30


days before renewal is per-

fect) by giving better rates.

Last-minute

shopping

(less than 10 days before

the policy expires) makes

rate increase on your next renewal.

insurance

Buy a roadside assistance plan


(available from AAA, AARP and

think you're irresponsible,


and that will be reflected
in a higher quote.

other vendors) instead. It's cheaper.

72

Insurance

companies

Avoid these insurance mistakes


'f

Drop collision and


comprehensive
coverage when it
makes sense.
Save 5300
Let's face

it-old

cars (1O-plus

years) aren't worth much. So at a


certain point it doesn't make

sense to keep paying for collision and comprehensive (C&C)


coverage. Find the "book" value

of your vehicle on the Internet


(nada.com, edmunds.com or
kbb.com) or at the library. Then
add up the annual premiums for
C&C. Chances are, you're paying
for the full value of the vehicle
every three years. If you're comfortable accepting a low level of
risk, cancel your C&C coverage
and put that money away. You'll
probably come out ahead.

Don't let your car insurance


lapse. lf you're up against the
payment deadline, overnight the
check or contact your agent's
office to see if you can drop off
the check, or put it on your credit
card. Renewal of a lapsed poticy

probabty won't see a premium


increase because you paid for
the damage yourself. But if you
don't notify your agent and the
other person makes a detayed
claim for injury, your company
can deny coverage.

can cost you an extra 20 percent

r- Check out att the detaits of


"first accident forgiveness" poticies to be sure you're not paying
more up front. Atso check out
whether a second accident or a
driving violation on this type of
policy results in far higher premiums than a traditionaI po[icy.

for several years. That's lF the


company even agrees

to

rein-

state you (it doesn't have to).

'f

Don't reduce your tiabitity

coverage to save money. lt won't


save you much and may actually

cost you more in premiums. You

risk your home, savings and a

garnishment of future earnings if


you injure someone and you're
underinsured.

G You can settle fender-bender claims on your own, but you


sti[[ have to report the accident
to your insurance company! You

Never cancet an existing poticy untityou receive the new po[-

icy paperwork. lnsurance com-

panies can refuse to "underwrite" you even after they've


accepted your check and issued
a "binder." lf that happens, you
may not be abte to reinstate it.

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and other articles. See p. 4 for details.

BILL ZUEHLKE

tm
$229
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ory

by Rick Muscoplat
editors@thefamilyhandyman.com

QUESTTON

Can I tite
over tite?
The tite in my entryway is in great

shape-no

cracks or loose grout-but the style and


color are outdated and I want to replace it.
Removing it and starting over wi[l be a huge
job because it was installed with an epoxy
adhesive on a concrete floor. Can I iust tite
over the existing ti[e?

Tim Krohn, Middleburg, FL

s lons as there are no cracks in the

Cl"*irti"tg tile (indicating underlying


problems in the concrete), you can tile
on top of it. In fact, pros do it all the time.
Surface preparation is paramount.

Start by making sure all the tiles are


solidly bonded to the floor. Tap them
lightly with a wood mallet or a chunk

&

of 2x4. A hollow sound is an indication


that a tile is loose. Remove and reset

any loose ones with thin-set. Next, use


a 4-ft. level to find any high spots and
grind those down using a right-angle
grinder with a masonry wheel. Then
sand all the tiles with a belt or orbital
sander (AO-grit) to scratch any surface

l)

oE.

yt
U

)o
U
E
=

or loose
grout with a rotary tool or carbide

a.

glazes. Remove any moldy

scraper. Vacuum the tiles and clean


with detergent and water to remove

dirt, sealers and wax. Rinse the surface


with clear water and let it dry.
Buy a latex-modified thin-set (one
brand is FlexBond) and mix it in small
batches to keep it from skinning over.
Complete adhesive coverage is critical
on large tiles (12 in. or larger) and even
more important when you're tiling over

'l';
I,
I my u [eve[ on the otd tite and mark any high
I Roughen the tite with 8O-grit sandpaper.

MASONBY

WHEEL

.-**'- ^*-"d*

spots. Grind them down with a grinder.

(,

zu
zU
u

o
F
-a
o
E

it
o

l
tn
o
m

the thin-set. Whichever method you


use, always comb the adhesive in one

the rows and spread the adhesive.


74

Juty/AuBust2oog

thef amltyhandyman.com

Iq
=

tile. Some installers prefer to "flatback"


each tile with the flat edge of the trowel
before applying the tile to the combed
thin-set. Others prefer to use a largernotched trowel (1.12 x Llz in.) to apply

direction (no swirls). Then set the tile


on the floor and slide it perpendicular
to the combed thin-set to knock down

o
F
E

its

Spread a ftat tayer of thin-set on the


of large tiles for better adhesion.
Or, use a larger-notch trowel.

Aback

2
rl

presr the tile onto the ftoor thin-set


and stide it perpendicutar to the

combed [ines.

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Juty,/August2OOg

75

Wood trim removal

1J.-t
I pry bar

technique

between the
two knives

I'm trying to remove old base motding,

and twist
sideways.

but every time I pry on it, I wreck the walts


or crack the trim. ls there a special technique for getting it off so I can reuse it?

Cris Cordoba, Piete, SD

Begin by cutting through any dried


paint along the top edge of the trim
with a utility knife. Then search for
the filled nail holes at one end of the
trim. Prying near those will keep you
from breaking out the drywall. Slide a

flexible 3-in. putty knife behind the

trim and pry out slightly. With

the

knife in place, wedge in a pry bar and


pry the trim out an inch. If it seems
like the trim is about to crack, insert a
second putty knife between the pry
bar and the trim. Move to the next

stud and repeat the

l
Z

erabthe

nait shaft
near the wood

with a pair of

procedure.

nippers. Rott
the tool head
against the
wood to pu[[
the nail out the
back side of
the trim.

Continue prying out the trim a little at


a time down its length. Then go back
to the beginning and pull the trim off.
Pushing the nails back through the
front of the trim will splinter the
wood. Instead, pull them through the
back with a nippers. Use just enough
pressure to pull the nails to avoid
cutting them off. If one breaks off,
cut it as close as possible to the wood
and leave it. That nub will just bury
itself in the drywall when you rein-

stall it.

Fix for stinky laundry room


My laundry room smetls tike a sewer. There's no
sign of dead rodents, but I'm ready to tear out
the walts to continue the search. ls there anything etse it coutd be?

Scott Heroff, Athens, OH

What glue for gtuing


what to what?
l'm never quite sure what gtue to use
when attaching different materials. ls
there an "adhesive bible" of some
sort?

Barb Minor, Kirksville, MO

Before you start demolishing the walls,


make sure there's water in the floor drain
trap. If the floor drain hasn't been used in a
long time, the water in the trap can evaporate and allow sewer gas into the house.
Sniff near the drain. Does it stink? It's probably dry. Pour a quart of water into the

drain, followed by a few teaspoons of vegetable oil. The oil will float on top of the
water and slow down evaporation.

76

JutylAugust2oog thefamilyhandyman.com

Stop guessing and head right to

this Web site: thistothat.com.


Enter the two materials you want
to bond and the site will present
the recommended adhesive(s).
Click on the adhesive. The site

will then give you

additional
information Iike drying times,
pricing and availability.

Patch a toitet tank


I overtightened the bolts on my toitet tank and now it leaks. l,d
replace the toitet, except the previous owner tited up to the
edge, so a new toilet won't fit the tite ftoor. ls there any way to
patch the tank?

W. Pettersen,

Davenport, IA

Your best bet is to search a used plumbing supply store


or construction recycling yard for a tank that fits your

bowl. Or look for a new toilet with a bigger base that


will cover the tile, and use a flange extension ring. If
you can't find either one, you can try this patch. fust be

if it ever fails, you might come home someday to considerable water damage. So proceed with
this repair at your own risk.

OOO,U

a tiberat bead of siticone caulk around the opening.

aware that

Empty the tank and thoroughly clean the

area

around the crack. Let the tank dry completely. Buy a


small piece of clear acrylic sheet (the thickest you can
find) at a hardware store. Cut a small patch to fit over
the crack and extend at least 1 in. beyond it. Drill a

L/2-in. hole in the acrylic for the toilet bolt, Then


apply a thick bead of silicone tub-and-tile caulk
around the bolt hole, over the crack and around the
edge of the acrylic patch. Apply the patch, squashing
the caulk out the sides. Then tighten the tank bolts and
Iet the caulk set up for 48 hours before filling the tank.
Leave a bowl under the repair and check it regularly
for water leakage for several weeks.

I xlfrll,""
shelf paper

With the caulk stitt wet, slip on the acrytic patch and tighten
the tank bott.

Removing old mirror tiles


to

the mirror.
Then cut
along the
seams so you
can work on
one tile at a
time.

bought a house that has'7Os mirror tiles on the bathroom watts. The

last thing I want to see in the morning is mysetf from every angle
before I'm awake. What's the fastest, safest way to remove them?

lill

Zaske, via e-mail

You'll need several rolls of adhesive shelf paper, a long thin


pry bar or metal spatula, tarp, heat gun (or hair dryer) and a
utility knife. Start by covering each tile with adhesive shelf
paper to prevent flying shards if the glass breaks (see photot).
Cover the floor with the tarp and wear leather gloves, long
sleeves and goggles throughout the removal (and disposal)
process.

2:;i',,,

until you can


grip the tite.
Then twist it

off.

Work on one tile at a time and heat it with a heat gun at


medium setting as you work the pry bar behind the glass. Keep
heating until you feel the adhesive "give,,a bit (see photo2).
Then gently pry up the edges until they're about 1/B in. out
from the wall. Grab a raised edge and rotate the tile until the
adhesive breaks away from the mirror.
If the tile breaks while you're working on it, remove the broken glass and cut the drywall paper around the edge of the
mirror adhesive. Then stick the pry bar under the paper and
pry off the adhesive and mirror together. Sand down any loose
paper and paint it with B-I-N or KILZ spray primer. Fill those
areas with two coats of joint compound. Then sand and prime
before painting.
thef amityhandyman.com

JutylAugust2OOg

77

Fix for remote controls


One of the buttons on my TV remote does-

n't work anymore. A factory replacement


costs a fortune. ls there any way to fix this?

Adam Rolek, via e-mai|


Most remotes have electrically conductive paint on the bottom of each rubber
button. The more you use each button,
the more the paint wears off. The good
news: You can buy a repair kit that

includes two-part conductive paint.


(We used the Chemtronics CW26o5
rubber keypad repair kit, which costs
$17 at mcmelectronics.com.) The bad
news: You have to figure out how to
disassemble the remote, and every one
is different. But here are some general
disassembly tips:
Start by removing the screws. They're
usually hidden in the battery compart-

\
I R"-ou" the buttons from the circuit board and scrub off any st icky stuff
I and dishwashing tiquid.

with the screws near their holes.

Be

sure you get a clear shot of all the buttons and any slide switches along the
78

with water

side of the remote. Once you pop open either individual rubber buttons, or a
the remote, those slide switches may single molded sheet containing all the

If you've spilled anything


sticky on your remote, dunk the rubber
knife along the seam and look for buttons/sheet, plastic case and any
"give." Press in at those points and pry hard plastic buttons in a bowl of warm
the halves apart. Inside you'll find water and dishwashing liquid. Brush

ment under labels and rubber feet. fly out.


Next, take a digital photo of the remote

CIRCUIT
BOARD

".,2)

buttons.

To separate the halves, press a butter

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COMMENT

kVi[[cocoa bean mulch


really kit[ vour dog?
few readers disagreed with our advice
paths
(March 'O9, p. 40). They warned us that
cocoa bean mulch can be fatal to dogs.
However, our research found that white
the mulch can cause sickness, rumors
of canine deaths from consuming
A

to use cocoa bean mutch for

cocoa mulch are "highty


(lournal

curing process or you'll be repeating the


repair in a year or so. Reassemble the
remote and you're ready to surf. j-.1

20O6). The

shou[d be examined by a veterinarian."

b We want

yourfeedback!l

Help us improve The Family Handyman


by sharing your opinion of this
other articles. See p. 4 for

and

O.,u',r..

thetamllyhandyman.com

PLASTIC BRICK 1AYING GUIDES

1,

articte concludes: "The odds of dogs


dying from eating the fresh mutch are
tow but those suspected of ingesting it

Repaint each button with a new coat of conductive paint. Let it cure for 72 hours
before reassembIing.

Paint all of them as long as you have the


case open. The paint dries in about 24
hours, but it needs a fill zZ hours to

suspect,,

the American Veterinary

Medical Association,.lune

'{

off the debris, rinse all the parts with cure completely. That's why we had
warm water and let them dry.
you take digital photos-so you could
Next, following the mixing and appli- remember how to reassemble your
cation instructions, paint the buttons. remote three days later. Don't rush the

of

CREATE

.JutylAugust2OOg

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by Bruce Wiebe
editors@thefamilyhandyman.com

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I

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F
F
t

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Y

=
s

iU
Y
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t
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a
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.g
o
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Low-budget venti lation

In his finishing room, professional woodworker

Dave

Munkittrick uses a ventilation system that's economical,


simple and effective. He stuck a plywood insert with a hole
for a fan in one window, and in the other window he taped

Readable ruler

If you have metal

rulers
and squares that are hard

to read because rust and


grime have filled the
indentations, brush correc-

tion fluid across the


engraved marks. Let it dry,
then clean off the dried
fluid with fine sandpaper.
The tiny marks will now

show clearly, and you can


skip buying a more power-

ful pair of cheaters.


Thanks for this tip goes to
Carl Anderson, a guy who
really rules.
80

Juty/August2OOg

thefamityhandyman.com

filter material. When he turns on the fan,


pulled
through
the fabric, filtered of dust and exhaustair is
the
fan.
But
even with the good ventilation, he
ed through
respirator
for
extra protection.
still wears a

a piece of furnace

Spray foam

tube cleaning
We all do it, so don't feel
bad. You forget to clean
the plastic tube and nozzle after using half a can
of spray foam. Do you go
to the store a month later
when you need more
foam? Nope! fust push a
12-gauge wire into the
tube and shove out the
dried foam in a single
piece, then clean out the

clogged nozzle with a


toothpick or small finish
nail. Now go ahead and

use the leftover foam.


Thanks to Michael Mata
for this ingenious tip.

Super-cool hardware trays


Forget the old coffee can filled with your lifetime collection
of screws, washers and other hardware. Take 10 minutes to

organize the miscellany in ice cube trays. Nail together a


case from scrap plywood and carry it right to the job at hand.
Thanks to reader Leo McSherry for this extremely cool tip.
AZ

JutylAugust2oog

We

want your feedback!

Help us improve The Family Handyman by sharing your opinion


of this and other articles. See p. 4 for details.

thefamityhandyman.com

q'ry,n.

,*{:fitry

v6;44
4;_.
'3r/
-ra

Send us your Shop Tip and if we print it, you'll


get Sl00! See Contributor Guidetines on p.2.

l\

i:r:-1!

r"i.l \

?-qa

Easy-pee[ labels

Workshop file crate


Organize all your tool manuals, sandpaper, receipts, project
plans and more in a plastic file box ($s at an office supply
store) loaded with hanging files. Ifyou neatly label the fiies,
the next time you want to take apart the chain saw, or need
a piece of 2Zo-grit sandpaper, you won't waste a second
rummaging around for the manual or sandpaper. Thanks to
reader Lauren Baugrud for this orderly tip.

Here's a slick way to remove those pesky labels from boards


and plywood. Heat the label with a hair dryer and peel it off

with a putty knife or sharp chisel. Go slow and tug gently


and it'll come off in one piece and leave no scraps behind to
tease away. Even though the spot

will look clean, there will

little adhesive left on the wood, and the label footprint


will reappear the second you put a finish over it. So rub the
spot with acetone and sand lightly to remove it completely.
be a

Thanks to Kurt Blankholm for this hot

tip.

thefamilyhandyman.com

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from our readers


editors@thefamilyhandyman.com

'l

tl!
I

WINDSHIELD
ICE SCRAPER

Leash saver
When you have a puppy or a dog that
chews on its leash, protect the leash with
314-ir'. vinyl hose (about 75@ per foot at
home centers). Cut the hose into 3-in.

Better
wa[[paper scraper
Scraping off wallpaper is no
picnic. Wallpaper scrapers are

pieces and thread them onto the leash

until

you reach the end. Cutting the vinyl into

one hand. Putty knives have

pieces makes it slide more easily over the


leash and also keeps the leash pliable. It's
just too bad they don't make vinyl hose big
enough to cover a pair of slippers.

the same problem and can also

Har]an Peterson

tiring because you can only use

damage the drywall surface.


And neither gives you much of
a reach. Here's a way to make

the chore easier and faster.


After wetting the wallpaper
with a sponge, use a long-handled windshield ice scraper to
remove it. The handle makes
reaching high spots a breeze,
and the scraper won't gouge
the wall unless you get too
aggressive.

zu
zU

leff Kumfer

Shower door seal


replacement rubber seal for the bottom of my shower door, so I came up with this inexpensive replacement. I bought a
self-stick piece of door weather stripping ($10) and cut it to length. I
cleaned the door thoroughly and applied the strip to the inside bottom edge. It may not work for every shower door, but it was a quick
and easy fix for mine.
MT Darcangelo

I couldn't find

Magnetic stick trick


In a hard-to-reach area, it

can

be

JuLylAugust2oog thefamityhandyman.com

frustrating to get a nut into place


when you need to thread on a bolt
from the other side. Here's a slick

it

trick. Glue a small rare-earth magnet


to the end ofa paint stir stick, attach
the washer and nut to the magnet,
and use the stick to hold them while
you thread on the bolt.

o_

Gus Anderson
a4

o
lJ
I

Y
(J
U
m

.g
o

fuk*

Easy gluing

dLs

for

sma[[ repairs
When you're gluing small

items like a broken earring or teacup, it can be

tough to keep them


clamped and still while
the glue is setting up. To
hold everything together
during the repair, embed
the parts in reusable adhesive tack ($3 at hardware
stores and home centers).
The pieces will stay right

where you put them,

so

you can apply the glue


and let it dry undisturbed.
Donna Zeitzeff

Puddle-free
lawn chairs
After a rainstorm, plastic lawn
chairs always seem to have a

puddle of water in the low

spot on the seat

and

inevitably, someone sits down


on it. Even newer plastic lawn

chairs that come with a


predrilled hole in the bottom
still collect water. To solve the
soggy bottom problem, pour
some water onto the seat to

find the puddles and then


drill small drain holes in the
low spots.
Dovid Wiersemo

Small-engine
oildispenser
Want a handy, no-mess way to
add oil to small engines? Use a
dishwashing detergent squeeze
bottle with a push-pull plastic

Etl

ftYr
'*r rd
rl*r h'
t

top. Rinse and dry the bottle

t;

thoroughly and

oil.

angle and aim the spout into


those hard-to-reach oii filler
holes. Just pull open the top
and give the bottle a squeeze to
add iust what you need.

\
\

fill it with

You can hold the bottle at any

Dan N. Devan

\
DRAINAGE
HOLES

We

want your feedback!

Help us improve The Family Handyman


by sharing your opinion of this and
other articles. See p. 4 for details.

86

JulylAugust2oog thetamityhandyman,com

LARGE-HEAD
PIN

ffi
r

l,l ;.i

,( I I
::: it1!

' ,;:" ..1ti

'tJ"l , '
,t
'd
"t'

Towel
knee pads
I don't tile very often,
but when I do, I like to
use something to protect my knees. If you
don't have knee pads,

you can easily make


them yourself. Just
duct-tape old bath
towels to your knees.
You might look a little funny, but it sure
beats destroying your

pants, and it's a lot


easier on your knees.

Rick Wilson tJ

Get 5100 for your


Handy Hint!
Send us your Handy
Hint and if we print it,
you'llget $100.
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Guidelines on p. 2.

thefamityhandyman,com

lutylAugust2oog 87

by Roy Doty
wordless@thefamilyhandyman.com

Batt rack

Our thanks go

We

want your feedback!

Help us improve The Family Handymanby sharing your


opinion of this and other articles. See p. 4 for details.

to Jack Kinsinger, Cincinnati, OH, for this idea.

Get 5100 foryour Wordless Workshop idea!


See Contributor Guidelines on p.2.

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.Juty,/August2OOg

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