Knitscene (Summer 2016)

interweave press
from the publishers of Interweave Knits
simple stylish spirited
19
Summer 2016
SWEET
SUMMER
KNITS
Lace, eyelets & layers
EVEN
KNITTERS
GET THE
BLUES
Indigo-inspired
projects
Choose the right
size every time
TROPICAL
HEATWAVE
Cool tees and
accessories for
any climate
www.knitscene.com
PLUS
Peek inside Kate

Atherleys Pattern
Writing Guide
How to k2tog and
ssk like a pro
16
DESIGNER
Lignin Cardigan
16
Heather Zoppetti
Capillary Scarf
Cordia Tank
19
Heather Zoppetti
Rosulate Tank
Heather Zoppetti
TROPICAL
HEATWAVE
Commelina Scarf
20
25
Kerri Blumer
26
Sarah Thieneman
Alpinia Tank
29
Corrina Ferguson
Heliconia Wrap
30
Noriko Ho
Ipomoea Scarf
33
Amy Palmer
Arundina Tee
35
Jesie Ostermiller
42
24
INDIGO BLUES
Mere Skirt
42
Jessica Anderson
Rogue Wave Socks
45
Kate Atherley
Buoyant Sweater
47
Amy Gunderson
Barachois Tunic
48
Wendy Bernard
Soliton Vest
49
Shaina Bilow
Seiche Tank
50
Yoko Johnston
Anil Cardigan
16 Designer Profile: Heather Zoppetti

51
Amy Christoffers
Tinctoria Tee
Corrina Ferguson
36 Slanting Stitches
52
Sachiko Burgin
Billabong Tee
FEATURES
Sarah Solomon
56 Tangled up in Blue
53
Leslie Ordal
54
DEPARTMENTS
Emma Welford
Atoll Cowl
Jenn Emerson
Cover: Alpinia Tank, page 29
contents
knitscene Summer 2016
www.knitscene.com
04 Editors Note
08 Materials
Pattern Play: Size Matters
Finishing School: Mattress Stitch
Book Talk: Beginners Guide to Writing
Knitting Patterns
96 Blogspotting:
Julia of Hand Knitted Things
beginner: basi c sti tches

easy: movi ng past scarves
intermediate: pretty confi dent
advanced: chal l enge mysel f
interweave press
level of difficulty
editorial
content strategist Lisa Shroyer
editor Amy Palmer
managing editor Rachel Koon
assistant editor Louisa Demmitt
senior project editor Joni Coniglio
assistant project editor Laura Hulslander
knitting gauge
technical editors Tracey Davidson, Karen Frisa, Lori Gayle, Julie Gaddy, Robin Melanson
To check gauge, cast on thirty to forty stitches using recommended needle

size. Work in pattern stitch until piece measures at least 4" from cast-on
edge. Remove swatch from needles or bind off loosely and lay swatch on
flat surface. Place a ruler over swatch and count number of stitches across
and number of rows down (including fractions of stitches and rows) in 4".
Repeat two or three times on different areas of swatch to confirm measurements. If you have more stitches and rows than called for in instructions,
use larger needles; if you have fewer, use smaller needles. Repeat until
gauge is correct.
proofreader Nancy Arndt
copy editor Amanda Borowski
creative services
designer Bekah Thrasher
art director Debbie Long
photography
projects Nathan Rega, Harper Point Photography
departments Louisa Demmitt
photostyling Katie Himmelberg
hair & makeup Janie Rocek, Kira Friedman
illustrations Alex Capshaw-Taylor, Gayle Ford, Kathie Kelleher, Kit Kinseth
reading charts
advertising
advertising manager Diane Kocal
Unless otherwise indicated, read charts from the bottom up. On right-side
rows, read charts from right to left. On wrong-side rows, read charts from
left to right. When knitting in the round, read charts from right to left for
all rounds.
diane.kocal@fwcommunity.com
advertising manager Sally Finnegan
sally.fi nnegan@fwcommunity.com
ad traffi cker Mary Lutz
classifi ed advertising Stephanie Greiss
learn it abbreviations
beg
BO
CO
dec
g
inc
k
k1f&b
kwise
m
mm
p
p1f&b
pm
psso
p2sso
pwise
rem
rep
rev St st
rnd(s)
RS
sl
st(s)
St st
tbl
tog
WS
*
()
[]
beginning; begin; begins

bind off
cast on
decrease(s); decreasing
gram(s)
increase(s); increasing
knit
knit into front and back
knitwise
marker(s)
millimeter(s)
purl
purl into front and back
place marker
pass slipped stitch over
pass two slipped stitches over
purlwise
remain(s); remaining
repeat(s); repeating
reverse stockinette stitch
round(s)
right side
slip
stitch(es)
stockinette stitch
through back loop
together
wrong side
repeat starting point (i.e., repeat from *)
alternate measurements and/or
instructions
instructions that are to be worked as a
group a specified number of times
Need More Help?

Visit www.knittingdaily.com/glossary
for a complete glossary of stitches.
marketing manager, eCommerce Melissa Gugelman
F+W Media Inc.

CEO Thomas F. X. Beusse
CFO/COO James L. Ogle
President Sara Domville
Senior Vice President, Operations Phil Graham
Vice President, Communications Stacie Berger
Knitscene (ISSN 2328-286X print and 2328-2940 online) is published quarterly by F+W Media,
Inc., 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525. (800) 272-2193. Application to Mail at Periodicals
Postage Prices is Pending at Fort Collins, CO, and additional mailing offices. All contents of this
issue of Knitscene are 2016 by F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part
is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. Subscription rate is $32/one year in the U.S., $36/
one year in Canada, and $39/one year in international countries (surface delivery). U.S. funds only.
Subscription services: knitscene@emailcustomerservice.com, (800) 839-4544 U.S. and Canada, (386)
246-0105 international, P.O. Box 433289, Palm Coast, FL 32143.
Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Weve made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you
have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at
www.knittingdaily.com/errata.
Knitscene does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services,
or views advertised in Knitscene. Nor does Knitscene evaluate the advertisers claims in any
way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products,
services, and views advertised in Knitscene.
Postmaster: Please send address changes to:
Knitscene, P.O. Box 433289, Palm Coast, FL 32143.
Visit the Knitscene website at www.knitscene.com.

call Diane Kocal at (317) 482-0120 or email
diane.kocal@fwcommunity.com; call Sally Finnegan at (513) 403-9565 or email
sally.finnegan@fwcommunity.com; or visit www.interweave.com.
For retail sales of magazines and Interweave books, call (800) 289-0963 or email
sales@fwcommunity.com.
For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, email knitscene@interweave.com, or write
to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576.
For advertising information,
4868 Innovation Dr.

Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576
(866) 949-1646
Enjoy our other fine fiber magazines

Interweave Knits, Interweave Crochet, knit.wear, PieceWork, Handwoven,
Spin.Off, Knitting Traditions, Love of Knitting, Love of Crochet
Visit us on the Web
www.knittingdaily.com www.fwcommunity.com
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Our summer issue always comes out at a kind of strange time of year. For instance,
the fi les that make up the issue youre holding in your hands were fi nalized and sent
to a printer in early Marcha decidedly un-summery time of year. As Im writing
this, Im actually kind of stuck in my house because northern Colorado received
about two feet of snow in the last 24 hours. Looking at photos of projects designed for
warmer weather is causing an incredible disconnect for me.
That said, I absolutely cannot wait for those summer days to show up. I dont
mind the snow; Im just absolutely enamored with the projects in this issue. Our
Tropical Heatwave story (pages 2435) makes me long for sunny beaches and visits
to rainforestsin fact, Ive already cast on for Noriko Hos Heliconia Wrap because I
have to have my own!
Our Indigo Blues projects (pages 4255) are inspired by ocean blues, pool blues,
and everything in between. Knit mostly in plant-based fi ber yarns, these patterns
will keep you feeling and looking cool all summer long. Be sure to read Leslie Ordals
article, starting on page 56, for an overview of the process of indigo dyeing and its
history with fabric.
Featured designer Heather Zoppettis design collection (pages 1621) includes
three utterly feminine, utterly unique pieces that youll want to cast on immediately.
Sarah Solomon, in the fi rst part of a series on decreases and increases, walks you
through the most basic k2tog, ssk, and centered double-decreasesafter reading her
tutorial on pages 3640, youll be a decreasing pro. Last, but most defi nitely not least,
Kate Atherleys Pattern Play (starting on
page 8) for this issue is a supersized piece
on how to choose the right size to knita
We are incredibly grateful to the
must-read for any garment knitter.
folks at the Fort Collins Nursery
However the weather is behaving in
for allowing us the use of their
your part of the world, I hope youll fi nd
greenhouses and plants for a
inspiration and delight in these pages of
location! Visit them online at
Knitscene. I know I certainly do.
www.fortcollinsnursery.com.
with the
Connect
nd our
e team a
K nitscen
at
ting titles
other knit
.com.
tingdaily
www.knit
Happy knitting,
share your projects
#knitscene
follow us
@interweavecraft
First sweater ever, complete!

#ravelry #knitscene
@interweavecraft
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#knitting#knitstagram
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laura_lish
Finally taking a picture of my Bay and Gable
Tunic in @yarnonthehouse Father. I love it, it's
so cozy!! #knitting #knittersofinstagram
#knitscene
madgiddy
4
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Summer16 Knitscene
PATTERN PL AY
Size Matters
How to choose the right size every time
Kate Atherley
Photo by Garrett Evans
Weve all been therethat point at

which we fall in love with a knitted garment pattern but agonize over what size
to knit. Pattern guru Kate Atherley is
here to share the secrets to choosing
which size to knit for any garment.
There are a lot of factors that go into choosing the right

size of a pattern to knit, but there are two key things to look
for: information about the garment itself and information
about the person who is to wear the garment. Information
about the garment itself can be found in the printed pattern.
You might see the headings Size (or To Fit) and Finished
Measurements (or Actual). Whats the difference?
Size describes the person who is to wear the garment.
Sometimes size is presented as lettersS, M, L, XL. For childrens garments, its often presented as an age (e.g., newborn,
3 months, 1 year, 2 years). Sometimes its given as a measurement (e.g., 36", 38", 40" chest). Think of this as what you read
on the label in the clothing store. Size says very little about
the garment.
Finished Measurements describes the garment and is the
key listing to help you determine a size. If a pattern lists that
the sweater has an actual finished bust circumference of 40",
if you measure it, it will be 40" around at bust heightthat is,
the front and back will each be 20" across. In Knitscene, the
measurements at the top of the materials list under Sizes
are the actual measurements of the garment when knitted
to match the gauge listed. (See my Pattern Play column from
Knitscene Winter 2015 on achieving gauge.)
Different types and styles of garments are worn differently: a bulky sweater-coat is worn loose, while the shell of
a twin-set is worn more fitted. The finished measurements
of the sweater-coat would be much larger than the finished
measurements of the shell, but both could be worn by the
same person. To help choose the right size, you also want to
consider the person who will be wearing the garment.
Youve probably heard about ease. Ease is about how
you wear a garment, the difference between your measurements and the measurements of the garment. The measurements of my winter coat are much bigger than my body
measurements; it has a lot of ease, so I can fit a sweater
under it. The measurements of my favorite summer T-shirt
www.knitscene.com
ALPINIA TANK
C or r in a F e r g u s o n
page 2 9
A n c i e n t A r t s He a v y L a c e
Sizes
Size
S
32 (36, 40, 44, 47, 51)" bust
circumference; shown in size 32", modeled
with " of negative ease
Yarn Ancient A
Arts H
Heavy Lace (65% silk,
35% linen; 765 yd [700 m]/113 g):
#RG01 raspberry gelato, 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2)
skein(s)
Gauge 18 sts and 27 rows = 4" in charted
patt; 18 sts and 30 rows = 4" in garter st
Tools
Size 4 (3.5 mm) needles
Removable markers (m)
Tapestry needle
Finished Measure
ments
describes the ga
rment and
is the key listing
to help you
determine a size
.
are much closer to my own actual measurementsI wear

it quite closely fitted, with only a little ease. The finished
measurements of my yoga top are the same as my measurementsI wear it with zero ease. The finished measurements
of the leggings I wear at yoga class are smaller than my
measurements, as they stretch to fitI wear them with
negative ease. Go through your own wardrobe and measure
items of clothing: different types of garments will have wildly
different measurements, depending on how you wear them.
Note: The finished measurements of the garment that are
listed in a pattern are exactly thatthe measurements of the
garment. There is no ease built into garment measurements,
since there is no ease without a person in the garment.
The finished measurements of a garment you make will
rarely match your own measurements. Choose the finished
measurements of the garment based on your measurements
plus the ease you want. If you want to wear a garment
loosely, you might choose the size for which the finished
measurements are your own plus 34" of ease. That is, if
your bust measurement (more on this below) is 40", you will
want your sweater to be 43" or 44" around. If youre making
a stretch-to-fit piece, such as a sock, the finished measurements might be smaller than your actual measurements.
Some patterns dont list a size specifically. Always look
for the measurements of the garment, such as numbers on
a schematic, and guidance on how to choose which size to
make. There may be a statement (e.g., choose a size about 2"
larger than your actual measurement). Look at the pictures:
How is the model wearing the garment? Is it very tight? Is it
slim-fitting? Is it roomy? Consider the garment type and style
and how you would wear it. Find something similar in your
wardrobe and measure that!
I love a pattern that offers a schematic, as its a way to
virtually try on a garment. Before I decide on the size Im
going to make, I hold a tape measure around myself to get a
sense of how big a size is relative to my body. If its a straight
sweater with no shaping measuring 42" around, I will see
what a 42" circumference looks like around my body at
various points: my hips, my waist, the fullest part of my bust,
my upper bust. Ill also look at the sleeve lengths, the neck
depth, and other key measurements to get a sense of how the
garment will fit me. After that, Ill choose the size that most
closely aligns with the measurements I want, and then I can
get started knitting the perfect size for me!
A few minutes with a tape measure can guide you to
better size choices and radically improve the fit of your garments. Measure yourself, measure your wardrobe, and then
measure out the pattern youre looking at. If youre going to
spend hours making a garment, its worth those few minutes
to get the perfect fit!
e measurements
Always look for th
h as numbers on a
c
su
t,
n
e
rm
a
g
e
th
of
idance on how
u
g
d
n
a
,
c
ti
a
m
e
h
sc
ze to make.
to choose which si
The Alpinia Tank has six sizesuse these tips

to determine which size is right for you.
Turn the page for measuring instructions and more info!
Summer16 Knitscene
HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF

Grab a friend for a measuring party. Wear a tight-fitting
tank or a swimsuit and take the key measurements.
The handy chart and illustrations on this page come
from Alex Capshaw-Taylors new book, Dressed
in Knits (Interweave/F+W Media, 2015). The most
important measurement is bust, but probably not as
you expect: for your bust, take your upper torso measurement, just under the arms. The size of your full
bust doesnt reflect the size of your frame. A D-cup
slim but curvy woman and a B-cup, broad-shouldered
competitive swimmer might both measure 40" around
the full bust, but they couldnt possibly wear the same
size shirt. The high bust measurement gives a more
accurate sense of the size of your frame. The key to
flattery is a proper fit in the shoulders and frame.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
10
2
6
8
3
11
12
High Bust: Measure just under the arms.

Waist: Measure around the narrowest part of
your waist.
High Hip: Measure around your hips at the
top of your hip bones.
Hip: Measure around the widest part of your
hips, between your high hip and crotch.
Upper Arm: Measure around the widest part
of your upper arm.
Forearm: Measure around your forearm,
where a three-quarter-length sleeve would hit.
Cross Back Width: Hold a knitting needle
in each armpit and measure the horizontal
distance between the two needles.
Back-to-Waist Length: Measure vertically
from the top of your vertebrae to the narrowest part of your waist.
Waist-to-Hip Length: Measure vertically
from the narrowest part of your waist to
where you would like your garment to hit.
HIGH BUST CIRCUMFERENCE

WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE
HIGH HIP CIRCUMFERENCE
HIP CIRCUMFERENCE
UPPER ARM CIRCUMFERENCE
FOREARM CIRCUMFERENCE
CROSS BACK WIDTH
BACK-TO-WAIST LENGTH
WAIST-TO-HIP LENGTH
SHORT-SLEEVE LENGTH
THREE-QUARTER-SLEEVE LEN
GTH
FULL-SLEEVE LENGTH
Short-Sleeve Length: Measure vertically

from your armpit to midway down your
upper arm.
Three-Quarter-Sleeve Length: Measure
vertically from your armpit to midway down
your forearm.
Full-Sleeve Length: Measure vertically from
your armpit to your wrist.
Fill in your actual measurements in the table at right

for future reference. s
10
www.knitscene.com
Get your own copy of

Dressed in Knits at
www.bit.ly/Dressed-In-Knits
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Summer16 Knitscene
11
BOOK TALK
The Beginners Guide to
Writing Knitting Patterns

Reviewed by Louisa Demmitt
Knitting up a pattern that has come from your own creative
mind is an awesome feeling. You make decisions on the
fly, tweaking something here, adding an element there, the
project is beautiful and original, and you want to share your
creation with the knitting world! But will your notes and
schematics, your overall pattern, make sense to someone
who isnt you?
If you want to make sure that your pattern is understandable and accessible, The Beginners Guide to Writing Knitting
Patterns by Kate Atherley is the handbook you need. Kate is a
designer, teacher, and tech editor, and she has an incredible
wealth of knowledge when it comes to all things knitting.
I especially like that she asks you a lot of questions in this
book, helping you really think things through. Should you
be writing in rounds or rows? Is your list of notions comprehensive? Many of the questions might seem small, but they
matter, and they make a huge difference when youre trying
to knit a pattern.
As Kate says, Its simple: Good pattern writing matters
because we want knitters to keep knitting. Its so frustrating
to see photos of something you want to make, only to fi nd

that the pattern is convoluted and confusing and not worth
the time to decipher. With the information in this book, youll
ensure that your patterns make sense and become projects
that people knit time and time again and recommend to
others as well!
The Beginners Guide
to Writing Knitting
Patterns: Learn to Write
Patterns Others Can Knit
By Kate Atherley
Interweave/F+W
www.bit.ly/
Pattern-Writing
get this
BOOK
FINISHING SCHOOL
FIGURE
FIGURE
FIGURE
FIGURE
Mattress
Stitch
Sachiko Burgin
Seaming up those flat knitted pieces is a lot easier than

you might expect. Mattress stitch is best for sewing
vertical seams of stockinette stitch, such as the sides
of a sweater or edges of a sleeve. Appearing virtually
seamless from the right side, mattress stitch gives your
knitting the most professional appearance.
It is best to use the same yarn that was used in the project;
however, if your yarn easily breaks or is bulky or uneven, you
can opt for a stronger, thinner yarn in a close color. For demonstration purposes, these photos use two different colors.
First, block all your pieces to straighten the edges and
even out the tension, so the seams may be worked easily and
evenly. Lay your pieces on a flat surface with the right sides
facing you and the two edges about to be
joined side by side.
If your cast-on tail is long enough,
thread the tail on a tapestry needle. If the
tail is too short, cut a new length of yarn.
Working one full stitch in from the edge,
insert the needle from the back and out to
the front above the two bars of your caston edge (Figure 1). Pull the yarn through
and repeat this step on the other corner
(Figure 2). Pull the yarn tight to close the
gap (Figure 3).
Returning to the piece with which
you started, gently pull the two edge
stitches away from each other to see the
horizontal bars running up between them (Figure4). Insert the
tapestry needle under the next bar and pull yarn through to
the front, leaving a small amount of slack in the yarn between
the two pieces (Figure 5). Repeat this step on the corresponding horizontal bar on the opposing side (Figure 6). Continue
in this manner for about an inch, then fi rmly pull the tail
upward to bring the side edges snugly together (Figure 7).
Avoid pulling too tightly, as you want to maintain the elasticity of the knit fabric and not create any puckers. Working in a
zigzag fashion, continue until your seam is complete. Weave
in all your ends on the wrong side.
14
www.knitscene.com
FIGURE
FIGURE
FIGURE
For fi ner knits, you can work under two bars at a time
for similar results, but your preference for this will be established with practice and experience. s
Sachiko Burgin is a knitwear instructor and designer in
Toronto, Canada.
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800.341.0282 HALCYONYARN.COM 12 School St. Bath, ME
Summer16 Knitscene
15
In Full Bloom
Heather Zoppettis
Design Collection
Corrina Ferguson
Lignin Cardigan
An asymmetrical collar accents the
sweet petite dots on this cardigan,
worked from the bottom up. The wool
and silk yarn provides excellent stitch
definition while remaining soft next
to the skin, perfect for pulling on in
anyweather.
Yarn Sincere Sheep Luminous
Pattern page 60
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Photo by Heather Zoppetti
Heather Zoppetti is the fastest

knitter I know, and I know a lot
of knitters. Shes been designing
for only six years, yet she has an
impressive library of designs and
two books under her belt. Shes
prolific partially due to her speed,
but mostly due to the fact that she
has a head full of ideas that she
needs to bring to fruition. She just
doesnt stop. When folks ask me
about her design business or her
quickly growing pattern-distribution
and yarn company, I always say the
same thing: Shes a force of nature.
When Heather began knitting,
she followed the trajectory that many
of us designers do. She just couldnt
leave well enough alone. She had to
fi x things, change things, and make
things her own. That quickly led
to designing her own patterns. Her
fi rst design was actually for a Knitty
competition, using her handspun yarn.
But then she got serious. She did an
entire blog series on her next design,
the Nancy & Judy shawl. She blogged
the process, from inspiration to
publication, on her website (www
.hzoppettidesigns.com/blog/designseries-nancyjudy). At this point,
Summer16 Knitscene
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Heather was still an aspiring designer,

but she didnt mess around. She
was quickly published in Interweave
Knits, and her Dahlia Cardigan from
Interweave Knits Fall 2011 continues
to be a perennial favorite.
In addition to her prolific design
career, Heather runs a highly regarded
small yarn company and pattern
distribution business, Stitch Sprouts.
She started this business in the midst
of writing two books for Interweave,
because the woman never slows down.
She wanted a business that supported
the industry, from designer to local
yarn store. She started out distributing
patterns and selling stitch markers,
but quickly progressed to having her
very own yarns milled. She currently
has two yarn bases, Yellowstone and
Crater Lake, which are already being
featured in magazines and books.
Twice a year, she sets up a booth at
The National NeedleArts Association
(TNNA) show, where she exhibits her
yarns, her crazy popular class kits, and
the patterns she distributes for 30 of
the best designers in the industry.
At this point she has a waiting list of
designers clamoring to be a part of
her vision.
Heathers personal design process
starts with the big picture. She begins
with the itema sweater, a hat, a
shawland then drills down to the
details. Once she knows what shes
doing construction-wise, she starts
looking at stitch patterns. Thats
the dangerous part, because the
stitch pattern she is considering for a
top-down cardigan might scream to
be a lace shawl, and then comes the
temptation to drop everything and
cast on for a shawl that must be made
immediately. Sometimes the hardest
part of designing is sticking with the
project at hand.
(continued on page 21)
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Capillary Scarf
An open lace pattern forms the veins
of this simple scarf. A length of I-cord,
knit in a contrast color and threaded
through the lace, allows the wearer
to cinch the scarf close to the neck,
instantly transforming it into a cowl, or
to tie it casually.
Yarn The Fiber Seed Silky Seed Lace
Pattern page 61
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Rosulate Tank
A gentle ruffle frames the
buttonband of this layering piece. A small zigzag
pattern trails up the body
of this vest from bottom
to top. This yarn shines in
both stitch definition and
subtle drape for the ruffle.
Yarn Baah Yarn Savannah
Pattern page 62
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This collection for Knitscene came

together very organically. Heather
started with the idea of petalsall
softness and ruffles. She didnt use
any of her own yarns in the collection because she relishes the chance
to play with other peoples beautiful
yarns. The resulting three-piece collection is decidedly feminine with just
a hint of modern edge.
Whats coming up for Heather? Her
biggest goal for 2016 is establishing a
solid library of pattern support for her
Yellowstone and Crater Lake yarns.
Whether she designs and knits these
things herself or acquires designs from
her network of talented friends, there is
no doubt the yarns will be well represented. And then Heather can jump to
her next amazing thing. s
Corrina Ferguson is a knitwear designer
and author of Warm Days, Cool Knits
(Interweave/F+W Media, 2015). Find her
online at www.picnicknits.com.
get this
BOOK
Get Heathers newest book,
Unexpected Cables, at
www.bit.ly/
Unexpected-Cables
Summer16 Knitscene
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LET FEATURED DESIGNER
Heather
Zoppetti
inspire your knitting with this design

collection! Heathers Start Knitting Lace
DVD is great for beginners, or any knitter who enjoys having visual tutorials
for stitches. Everyday Lace, Heathers
first book with Interweave, features 18
garments and accessories for daily wear.
Finally, follow Heather as she walks you
through her incredibly popular Dahlia
Cardigan with the Dahlia Cardigan
Knitalong Workshop DVD.
www.bit.ly/Heather-Zoppetti
Prue
Bristol Ivy for Kelbourne Woolens
in The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering
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TROPICAL
HEATWAVE
hot knits for cool looks
24
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Cordia Tank
Kerri Blumer
A simple tank, knit in the
round to the underarms,
becomes super chic with an
easy cable panel. The shoulders of this sleeveless tee cut
in just slightly to show yours
off. A wool-silk blend yarn
makes for a lighter layer with
great stitch definition.
Yarn Stitch Sprouts Yellowstone Pattern page 66
about this
YARN
Stitch Sprouts Yellowstone

is a sportweight wool-silk
blend with generous yardagenearly 300 yards per
skein! Currently, its available
in nine fantastic colors.
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Commelina Scarf
Sarah Thieneman
Combine a solid and a
variegated cotton yarn in a
simple slip-stitch knitting
pattern for a dynamic pop
of color to accessorize any
summer outfit.
Yarn Cascade Yarns Ultra
Pima and Cascade Yarns
Ultra Pima Paints
Pattern page 68
26
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28
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Alpinia Tank
Corrina Ferguson
This open, lacy knitted tank is
great for layering over camisoles
and bathing suits alike. To provide stability to the silk and linen
yarn, this tank is seamed after
being knit from the top down.
Yarn Ancient Arts Heavy Lace
Pattern page 69
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Heliconia Wrap
Noriko Ho
Two lace panels are strategically seamed to create a
stunning oversized knitted
cardigan. Worn loose or
belted, this dramatic ruana
is the perfect cover-up for a
summer day.
Yarn The Fibre Company
Meadow, distributed by
Kelbourne Woolens
Pattern page 72
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about this
YARN
The Fibre Company Meadow is

a slightly tweedy blend of merino,
baby llama, silk, and linen. This
lightweight fingering yarn is
perfect for shawls and scarves, but
can also make for gloriously light
sweaters. The biggest problem with
this yarn? Choosing just one of the
twenty beautiful colors.
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Ipomoea Scarf
Amy Palmer
This super-long scarf is light and
airy, thanks to rows of elongated
stitches set off by a section of
dropped stitches. A blend of
cotton and alpaca makes for an
incredibly soft summer stole.
Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Cerro
Pattern page 74
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Arundina Tee
Jesie Ostermiller
A top-down seamless tee pairs
elongated stitches and a colorshifting yarn for a one-of-a-kind
knitted pullover. Knit in the round
from the top down, the dramatic
gauge shifts are achieved by
changing needle sizes.
Yarn Plymouth Yarn Company
Driftone Pattern page 76
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Slanting
Stitches
The ins and outs of decreasing
Sarah Solomon
Lace often looks so complex that it can be daunting, but

in the majority of cases, what looks like an intricate lace
pattern is made up of relatively simple combinations of
decreases and yarnovers. Because working decreases
is fundamental to working lace patterns, this article will
focus on how to work the decreases most commonly
found in lace knitting and illustrate how they change the
shape and appearance of knitted fabric. Although these
techniques will help you in lace knitting, the properties
of each decrease are best demonstrated on a background
of stockinette stitch, as in the swatches on pages 3738.
Learning to read your knitted fabric and to identify
individual stitches is an essential skill in knitting. Once
you can recognize them in stockinette, it is easier to
identify them within lace knitting, and knowing which
way each decrease will slant will help you to read your
knitting and to predict where a pattern should be going.
SINGLE DECREASES
Well begin with the decreases used most frequently: single

decreases. Single decreases reduce two stitches to one and
lean either to the right or to the left. Decreases can be worked
on either the right side or wrong side of the fabric. The
descriptions in this section refer to the directional slant of
the stitch viewed from the right side of the fabric, regardless
of which side they were worked on. In the stockinette-stitch
swatches shown, right side refers to the knit side of the fabric and wrong side to the purl side. Due to the directional
slant of the various decreases, they are often worked in mirrored pairs, either leaning toward one
another or away from one another, to
anoth
keep balance within the fabric. Each
single
sing decrease is grouped with its
most
mos common partner.
The instructions for working the
decreases
are based on knitting in
de
the
th Western style, with the right
leg
le of the stitch sitting on the front
of the needle. If you knit in the
Eastern
or Combination style, you
E
will
w need to work your stitches
differently to achieve the same
result. For more information on
cases,
f
o
y
t
i
r
o
j
ma
in the
intricate
n
a
e
k
i
l
s
k
what loo
up of
e
d
a
m
s
i
ern
lace pat t
ations
n
i
b
m
o
c
simple
relatively
novers.
r
a
y
d
n
a
ses
of decrea
36
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how to manipulate stitches for Eastern

or Combination knitting, see www
.grumperina.com/table.pdf.
K2tog: Knit two stitches together.
Insert the right needle into the second
stitch, then into the fi rst stitch on the
left needle from left to right, wrap the
yarn as if to knit and pull up a loop,
dropping the two stitches off the left
needle. K2tog leans to the right.
The left-leaning decrease usually
paired with k2tog is ssk.
Ssk: Slip, slip, knit. Slip the next two
stitches on the left needle knitwise,
one at a time, to the right needle. Insert
the left needle into the front of the two
slipped stitches on the right needle
from left to right. Wrapping the yarn
around the right needle as if to knit,
pull up a loop and drop the two stitches
from the left needle.
The directional slant of decreases
has a powerful effect on knitted fabric,
whether shaping a stockinette fabric
or creating a lace pattern. Where you
place your decreases within your fabric
can alter the appearance dramatically,
especially when stacking decreases at
regular intervals, as you might do for a
raglan armhole.
Swatches 1 and 2 show decreases
worked two stitches in from the fabric
edge. In general, it is preferable to
work decreases at least one stitch
away from the edge of the piece; this
results in a smoother edge and greater
clarity for the directional slant of the
decrease itself. Swatch 1 uses k2tog at
the beginning of the row and ssk at the
end of the row. Swatch 2 reverses this
pattern, using ssk at the beginning of
the row and k2tog at the end of the row.
Observe how differently the fabric lies
in each example.
The wrong-side equivalents of these
two decreases are p2tog and ssp.
P2tog: Purl two stitches together.
Insert the right needle into the fi rst
and second stitches on the left needle
from right to left, wrap the yarn as if to
purl and pull up a loop, dropping the
two stitches from the left needle. P2tog
resembles k2tog when seen from the
right side of the work.
Ssp: Slip, slip, purl. Slip the next two
stitches on the left needle knitwise, one
at a time, to the right needle. Return
these two stitches to the left needle in
SWATCH 1
SWATCH 2
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their current orientation. With the yarn held in front, insert

the right needle from left to right through the back of the
second, then the fi rst stitch. Wrapping the yarn as if to purl,
pull up a loop and drop the two stitches from the left needle.
Ssp resembles ssk when seen from the right side of the work.
Swatch 3 shows pairs of decreases being worked on both
right and wrong sides of the fabric. The right-side decreases
were worked using ssk at the beginning of the row and k2tog
at the end of the row. The wrong-side decreases were worked
using p2tog at the beginning of the row and ssp at the end
of the row, which stacked the wrong-side pair of decreases
with their right-side equivalents, resulting in a smooth and
continuous line of decreases.
Now that you can clearly see how the single decreases are
formed, lets take a look at a few alternatives that can make
working left-leaning decreases a bit easier. When you need to
work ssk with some frequency, as is often the case in lace, it
can be handy to have a simpler way of working this decrease,
without as many distinct movements. In the alternative
method below, this is done entirely on the left needle, without slipping any stitches.
Ssk (all on the needles): Without slipping any stitches,
insert the right needle knitwise into the fi rst stitch on the
left needle, then maneuver the right needle to the front of the
work and insert the needle knitwise into the second stitch.
The right needle will now be through both stitches and
pointing away from you on the wrong side of the work.
Wrapping the yarn as if to knit, pull up a loop and drop the
SWATCH 3
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two stitches from the left needle. This will yield the same
result as the method of working ssk explained above.
Another left-leaning decrease common in lace patterns is
skp (slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over). Ssk is more commonly used, as the resulting stitch is slightly more subtle and
more closely mirrors k2tog. However, skp frequently appears
in older patterns and it can also be used in place of ssk if you
fi nd it easier to work or think it yields a pleasing result.
Skp: Slip one stitch knitwise from left to right needle, knit
the next stitch on the left needle, then pass the fi rst stitch
on the right needle (the slipped stitch) over the knitted stitch
and drop it off the needle.
DOUBLE DECREASES
Double decreases reduce three stitches to one and are a key

element in some lace patterns, as they have a more pronounced result than a single decrease.
Sk2p (slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over): Slip one
stitch knitwise from left to right needle. Knit the next two
Learning to read
your
knit ted fabric an

d identify
individual stitche
s is an
essential skill in
knit ting.
Aileen in )LUH\,
plus seven more
easy-to-wear designs in
Highland Summer 1604.
Pattern books and
individual pdf patterns
available at your LYS and
Ravelry.
pattern
#1507
Summer16 Knitscene
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stitches on the left needle together

(k2tog). Using the left needle tip, lift the
slipped stitch over the k2tog and drop it
off the needle.
SWATCH 4
S2kp2 (slip 2, knit 1, pass 2 slipped

stitches over): Slip two stitches together,
inserting the right needle tip into the

second stitch then the fi rst stitch on the
left needle as if working a k2tog. Knit
the next stitch on the left needle. Using
the left needle tip, lift the two slipped
stitches over the knitted stitch and
drop them off the needle.
The bottom section of Swatch 4
illustrates sk2p, which has a distinct
left-leaning appearance. The top half
illustrates s2kp2, which produces a
distinct vertical line. Both have their
uses in lace knitting, depending on the
desired effect. s
Sarah Solomon is a knitting instructor and
designer in New York City.
k2tog
ssp
40
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ssk
Mere Skirt
Jessica Anderson
A breezy linen A-line skirt with
just a touch of lace at the hem is
perfect for summer! Knit from the
top down, this skirt features an
elastic waistband to ensure it stays
in place.
Yarn Quince & Co. Sparrow
42
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Pattern page 78
indigo
BLUES
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Rogue Wave Socks

Kate Atherley
Cables wave in and out down
the leg and top of the foot of
these top-down socks. A blend
of cotton, nylon, bamboo, and
silk, this yarn provides great
stitch definition and softness
for anyone looking for a substitute for wool or wool-blend
sockyarns.
Yarn HiKoo CoBaSi, distributed
by Skacel Pattern page 78
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Buoyant Sweater
Amy Gunderson
Double yarnover bubbles
adorn this breezy sweater.
Knit from the bottom up
and seamed, this pullover
gets an added lift from the
tie-dyed cotton-wool yarn.
Yarn Fibra Natura denims,
distributed by Universal
Yarn Pattern page 80
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Barachois Tunic
Wendy Bernard
Nothing beats linen for lightweight summer
knitwear, and this sleeveless tunic perfectly
showcases linens properties. Strategically
placed dropped stitches are crisp and defined,
and the stockinette-stitch fabric has figureflattering drape.
Yarn Shibui Knits Linen
Pattern page 81
48
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Soliton Vest
Shaina Bilow
An open-front hexagon vest is
fun to knit and great to wear
over any summer outfit. Knit
in the round from the center
out, this sleeveless cardigan
features a broken-rib texture
pattern alternating with
stockinette-stitch triangles.
Yarn Brown Sheep
Company Cotton Fleece
Pattern page 82
about this
YARN
Cotton fibers get a lift from just a

touch of wool spun into Brown
Sheep Companys Cotton
Fleece. Three tiny threads are
plied together, then four of those
are plied together again to add
strength and structure to this
versatile yarn.
Summer16 Knitscene
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Seiche Tank
Yoko Johnston
A dramatic lace pattern adorns
the neckline and front of this
otherwise simple-to-knit A-line
tank. Worked from the top down,
this tank is knit both flat and in
the round for the perfect fit.
Yarn Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy,
distributed by Knitting Fever
Pattern page 83
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Anil Cardigan
Amy Christoffers
This comfy open-front cardigan gets
a little lift from a lace pattern at the
shoulders. Knit the body in one piece
to the underarms, work the shoulders
of the fronts and back, and then pick up
stitches to knit the sleeves for a mostly
seamless experience.
Yarn Berroco Indigo
Pattern page 86
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Tinctoria Tee
Sachiko Burgin
This sleeveless tee
features a simple lace
pattern along the sides
and an elongated back
hem. Side vents are
achieved by knitting the
front and back flat and
thenseaming.
Yarn Mirasol Pima Kuri,
distributed by Knitting
Fever Pattern page 88
52
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Billabong Tee
Emma Welford
Short columns of dropped stitches
add visual interest to the front and
back neckline of this easy knitted
tee. Knit flat and seamed, the body
begins with a simple lace edging
before working up to the neckline.
Yarn Rowan Panama, distributed by
Westminster Fibers Pattern page 92
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Atoll Cowl
Jenn Emerson
Worked in a delicious blend of yak
and silk, this easy-to-knit cowl is
worked from the top down with an
elongated stitch pattern that makes
for an airy summer accessory.
Yarn Jade Sapphire Khata
Pattern page 93
KIT !
get this
www.bit.ly/
Atoll-Cowl-Kit
54
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about this
YARN
This two-ply, 50% silk, 50% yak blend

of heavy laceweight yarn makes for
beautiful lightweight projects. Jade
Sapphires Khata is perfect for
summer accessories but could also be
used for garments, as the silk lends
a gorgeous drape. With at least 700
yards in each skein and more than
twenty-four colors to choose from,
your options are endless!
Summer16 Knitscene
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55
Tangled up
in Blue
An Introduction to Indigo
Leslie Ordal
Blue is one of the rarest colors to occur in nature, and

as such, any substance that can confer the color to
textiles and other items has always been highly valued.
Synthetic dyes, usually cheaper and easier to use than
natural dyes, were first developed in the 1850s and were
subsequently adopted as the dyestuff of choice by most
textiles manufacturers. Yet one of the oldest natural
dyesindigohas retained a certain magic and mystery
that, along with its extraordinarily complex blue color,
have kept its dyeing traditions alive.
Indigo is derived from any number of plants, most of which
grow in the tropics, but also in the more temperate climes
of Europe and eastern Asia. Plants in the genus Indigofera
produce the greatest amount of indigo, but its also found
in substantial quantities in plants such as woad, which has
been cultivated in Europe as a dyestuff since at least 700
BCE. Indeed, indigo shows a remarkably long and varied
history of use throughout the world. Fragments of indigodyed linen were found on the urns containing the Dead Sea
Scrolls. Intricately patterned indigo-dyed cloth from Japan
has been traced back to at least the seventh century CE, with
the dye and its traditions likely brought over from China even
earlier. Woad mills dotted the landscape of thirteenth century
Germany, providing indigo to textile producers in other parts
of Europe. Plants of the Indigofera family flourished in the
southeastern United States in the late eighteenth to early
nineteenth centuries, a particularly dark chapter of the dyes
history wherein its demand and production supported the
transatlantic slave trade.
Indigo-dyed textiles have been recovered from archeological sites around the world, with cultures from Japan,
Southeast Asia, West Africa, Latin America, and Europe
each creating their own methods and rituals for the production and use of blue textiles. Many cultures use indigo to
make ikat textiles, where the yarn itself is dyed in sections
that will create a particular pattern when woventhese
have been especially important in Japan and other parts of
From top to bottom:
Pots of indigo dye
Working batik dye
Indigo-dyed wool
Indigo-dyed cotton fabric
Preparing fabric for batik

dyeing with indigo
uing
...Indigo has an intrig
unlike
dye process that is
almost any other.
Asia. Japan has a strong tradition of indigo dyeing that has
dwindled to about a half-dozen families, but the knowledge
continues to be passed on and maintained. Several groups of
ethnic minorities in China are renowned for their unique use
of indigo, such as the Dong peoples preference for heavily
saturated and stiff indigo-dyed clothing, which is so dark
and shiny it takes on a metallic, almost coppery appearance.
This coppery look is also prized by the Touareg people of
the Sahara, who use mallets to pound indigo pigment into
already-dyed cloth. Indigo also retains a following in Mexico,
especially in Chiapas and Oaxaca. Even with the arrival of
both synthetically produced indigo and other synthetic blue
dyes, numerous small communities such as these keep the
practice of indigo production alive through their own local
all images credited to iStock
and specialized methods of dyeing and textile creation. All

of these methods, however, must account for indigos unique
properties as a dye.
Unlike many natural dyestuffs, indigo does not require
the addition of a mordantanother substance, usually a
metal saltto fi x the color to the fi ber. The brilliant blue dye
extracted from plants also will not directly color any material.
Instead, indigo has an intriguing dye process that is unlike
almost any other. Indigotin is the proper name of the blue
pigment in indigo-bearing plants, but it will not act as a dye
unless fi rst dissolved in an alkaline (basic) solution. This turns
the pigment into leuco-indigo (also known as indigo white),
which is yellowish-green instead of blue. The dye will fi x to
the fi ber in the indigo-white solution, and then exposure to
Summer16 Knitscene
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Image credit: iStock
A step-by-step collage of indigo dyeing,

from plants to finished fabric
air will convert the dye back into the recognizable blue of
indigotin. Indigo dyers have come up with a number of original
ways to facilitate this process, which usually takes place in a
large vat that will be used repeatedly to dye cloth and fiber.
Even though indigotin is the pigment present in all
indigo-bearing plants, the exact color of the dye derived from
different plants may vary. This is likely due to the presence
of other compounds present in the plants (such as indirubin,
also called indigo red, or flavonoids that add a yellow tinge),
which can affect the color. Synthetically produced indigo dye
does not have such a great degree of variation, as it is almost
entirely pure indigotin.
Whatever the source, and whatever the tradition, it is hard
to resist the allure of the rich and satisfying blue of indigo.
Whether its the ikat textiles of Asia, the copper-like brilliance of saturated Toaureg cloth, or even your favorite blue
jeans, indigo continues to entrance and inspire. The universality of our love for the color blue will likely keep natural
indigo dyeing alive for generations to come. s
Leslie Ordal writes and works in healthcare research in Toronto,
Canada. She plans to resume blogging about her fiber adventures
soon at www.leslieordal.com.
58
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Further Reading
Indigo by Jenny Balfour-Paul (Archetype Books, 2007)
Indigo: The Color that Changed the World by Catherine Legrand
(Thames & Hudson, 2013)
A Handbook of Indigo Dyeing by Vivien Prideaux
(Search Press, 2012)
tr y your
HAND
at easy indigo dyeing

with the Itajimi Shibori
Fabric Dyeing Kit!
www.bit.ly/
Itajimi-Shibori
Theres always
more online
BOOKS
MAGAZINES
DVDs
AND MORE
Yarns spun with Care in Harrisville, NH
nn{xU>iV
-&7*nx
YARN KIT
premier classieds
YARNS
resource guide
spinnery.com
Summer16 Knitscene
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Designer
RS row. Next row (WS) P48 (52, 56, 64, 68, 76,
st decd. Rep Dec row every 4th (2nd, 2nd, 2nd,
84), place marker (pm), k1, pm, p105 (109, 121,
2nd, 2nd, 2nd) row 9 (4, 3, 8, 3, 8, 17) more
133, 149, 161, 173), pm, k1, pm, purl to end.
times, then every 4th row 0 (9, 10, 8, 9, 7, 2)
Next row (RS) Beg and ending as indicated for
times30 (30, 30, 31, 31, 32, 32) sts rem. Work
right front, work Dot chart to m, sl m, p1, sl m,
even until armhole measures 6 (7, 7, 8,
beg and ending as indicated for back, work
8, 9, 9)", ending with a RS row. Shape
Dot chart to m, sl m, p1, sl m, beg and ending
shoulder using short-rows as foll:

Short-row 1 (WS) Work in patt to last 6 sts, wrap
as indicated for left front, work Dot chart to

end. Work 1 more row in patt, working k1
between m. Shape waist: Dec row (RS) *Work
in patt to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, p1, sl m,
next st, turn.

Short-row 2 (RS) Work in patt to end.
Short-row 3 Work in patt to 6 sts before wrapped
end4 sts decd. Rep Dec row every 22nd
st, wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 4 Work in patt to end.
(24th, 24th, 24th, 24th, 24th, 26th) row 2 more
Rep last 2 short-rows 2 more times. Next row
times191 (203, 223, 251, 275, 303, 331) sts
(WS) Work in patt to end, working wraps tog
rem. Work even until piece measures 8 (9,
with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder.
ssk; rep from * once more, work in patt to
9, 9, 9, 9, 9)" from CO, ending with a

WS row. Inc row (RS) *Work in patt to m, LLI,
Back
LIGNIN CARDIGA N
sl m, p1, sl m, RLI; rep from * once more, work
Return 99 (103, 113, 123, 137, 149, 159) held
in patt to end4 sts incd. Rep Inc row every
back sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin
Heather Zoppet ti
22nd (24th, 24th, 24th, 24th, 24th, 26th) row 2
yarn. Work 1 WS row. Shape armholes: BO 3
more times203 (215, 235, 263, 287, 315, 343)
sts at beg of next 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8) rows, then
sts. Work even until piece measures 15 (16,
BO 2 sts at beg of foll 2 (2, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10) rows,
16, 16, 16, 16, 17)" from CO, ending
then BO 1 st at beg of foll 2 (2, 2, 4, 8, 6, 8)
with a WS row. Divide for fronts and back:
rows87 (91, 95, 99, 99, 103, 107) sts rem.
Next row (RS) Work to 2 (2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts
Work even until armhole measures 6 (7, 7,
page 16
Sincere Shee p Luminous
Sizes 36 (38, 41, 46, 51, 55, 60)"
before m and place these 46 (50, 53, 60, 63, 71,
8, 8, 9, 9)", ending with a WS row. Shape
bust circumference; shown in size 41",

modeled with 4" of positive ease
Yarn Sincere Sheep Luminous
(85% polwarth wool, 15% tussah silk;
330 yd [302 m]/113 g):
cumulus, 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) skeins
Gauge 23 sts and 32 rows = 4" in Dot patt
78) sts on holder for right front, BO 6 (6, 8, 10,
shoulders using short-rows as foll:
BO 6 (6, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14) sts, removing m, work

to end46 (50, 53, 60, 63, 71, 78) sts rem for
left front.
Tools
Size 6 (4 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle
Markers (m)
Removable m
Stitch holders
Six 58 " buttons
Tapestry needle
Left Front
Work 1 WS row. Shape armhole: At beg of RS
rows, BO 3 sts 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4) time(s), then
BO 2 sts 1 (1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) time(s), then BO 1 st 1
(1, 1, 2, 4, 3, 4) time(s)40 (44, 44, 48, 44, 48,
52) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. Shape neck: Dec
row (RS) Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k11
sleeve
12 (12, 14, 16, 18, 19, 21)"
113, 123, 137, 149, 159) sts on holder for back,
2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5)"
18 (19, 19, 19, 19, 19, 19)"
6, 6, 7) sts before m and place these 99 (103,
5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7)"
12, 12, 14) sts, removing m, work to 3 (3, 4, 5,
10 (10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 12)"
See www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary for

terms you dont know.
This cardigan is worked back and forth in one

piece to the underarms, then divided for
working the fronts and back separately. The
sleeves are worked back and forth from the
bottom up.
A circular needle is used to accommodate the
large number of stitches.
Body
CO 203 (215, 235, 263, 287, 315, 343) sts. Do not
join. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1", ending with a
60
www.knitscene.com
4 (5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 7)"
1"
6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7)"
15 (16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 17)"
Notes
6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9 )"
5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5)"
18 (19, 21, 23, 26, 28, 30)"
body
33 (35, 38, 43, 47, 52, 57)"
8 (9, 9, 11, 11, 13, 14)"
35 (37, 40, 45, 50, 54, 59)"
LLI, k12 sts incd. Rep Inc row every 24 (20,
Sl1, p1, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Next row
14, 10, 8, 8, 6)th row 5 (1, 6, 6, 12, 9, 19) more
(RS) Sl 1, k1, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Work
time(s), then every 0 (18, 12, 8, 6, 6, 4)th row 0
even in rib until piece measures " from
(6, 4, 9, 6, 10, 5) times69 (73, 83, 97, 107, 113,
pick-up row, ending with a RS row. Shape
123) sts. Work even until piece measures 18
(RS) Work in patt to end, working wraps tog
(19, 19, 19, 19, 19, 19)" from CO,
collar using short-rows as foll:

Short-row 1 (WS) Work in patt to last 12 sts,
wrap next st, turn.
Short-rows 3 and 4 Work in patt to 6 sts before

wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.
with wrapped sts. Next row (WS) Work 30 (30,
ending with a WS row. Shape cap: BO 3 (3, 4,
30, 31, 31, 32, 32) sts, BO 27 (31, 35, 37, 37, 39,
5, 6, 6, 7) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3
43) sts, work to end, working wraps tog with
sts at beg of foll 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8) rows, then BO
wrapped sts30 (30, 30, 31, 31, 32, 32) sts rem
2 sts at beg of foll 2 (2, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10) rows53
each side. Place sts on holders.
(57, 59, 67, 65, 61, 65) sts rem. Work 12 (14, 16,

wrap next st, turn.

Shor t-row 3 Work in patt to 12 sts before
12, 12, 18, 14) rows even, ending with a WS
Rep last 2 short-rows 5 (7, 7, 8, 7, 8, 8) more
Right Front
row. BO 1 st at beg of next 24 (26, 26, 30, 26,
times. Next row (WS) Work in patt to end,
Return 46 (50, 53, 60, 63, 71, 78) held right front
20, 22) rows29 (31, 33, 37, 39, 41, 43) sts rem.
working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Work
sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn.
BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 4 sts at
2 rows even. BO all sts in patt.
Shape armhole: At beg of WS rows, BO 3 sts
beg of foll 2 rows15 (17, 19, 23, 25, 27, 29) sts
1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4) time(s), then BO 2 sts 1 (1, 1, 2,
rem. BO all sts.
3, 4, 5) time(s), then BO 1 st 1 (1, 1, 2, 4, 3, 4)

time(s)40 (44, 44, 48, 44, 48, 52) sts rem.
Finishing
Shape neck: Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, work in
Weave in ends. Block pieces to measurements.
patt to end1 st decd. Rep Dec row every 4th
With RS tog, join shoulders using three-needle
(2nd, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd) row 9 (4, 3, 8, 3,
BO. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve seams. Button
8, 17) more times, then every 4th row 0 (9, 10,
band: With RS facing, beg at base of left front
8, 9, 7, 2) times30 (30, 30, 31, 31, 32, 32) sts
neck, pick up and knit 97 (103, 105, 109, 115,
rem. Work even until armhole measures 6
115, 123) sts evenly spaced along left front,
(7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9)", ending with a WS
ending at left front lower edge. Work in k1, p1
row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll:
rib for 1". BO all sts in patt. Sew 6 evenly-
Short-row 1 (RS) Work in patt to last 6 sts, wrap
spaced buttons on button band. Buttonhole

band: Pm along right front opposite buttons.
next st, turn.
Short-row 2 (WS) Work in patt to end.

With RS facing, beg at right front lower edge,

pick up and knit 97 (103, 105, 109, 115, 115, 123)
sts along right front, ending at base of right
front neck. Work in k1, p1 rib for ", ending
with a WS row. Next row (RS) *Work in rib to
m, k2tog, yo; rep from * 5 more times, work in
rib to end. Cont in rib until band measures 1"

from pick-up row. BO all sts in patt. Collar:
Sleeves
Note: WS of garment is RS of collar. With WS of
CO 57 (57, 61, 65, 69, 73, 73) sts. Do not join.
garment facing, beg at left front neck edge
Work in k1, p1 rib for 1", ending with a RS
after button band, pick up and knit 106 (122,
row. Next row (WS) Purl. Beg and ending as
130, 134, 130, 134, 142) sts evenly spaced
indicated for sleeve, work Dot chart for 2 rows.
around neck edge, ending before buttonhole
Inc row (RS) K1, RLI, work in patt to last st,
band. Next row (RS of garment; WS of collar)
CAPILL ARY SCARF

Heather Zoppet ti
p a g e 19
T h e Fi b e r S e e d S i l k y S e e d L a c e
Sizes 9" wide and 57" long, ungathered

Yarn The Fiber Seed Silky Seed Lace
Dot
7
5
k on RS; p on WS
p on RS
pattern repeat
end
left front
end
back
end
sleeve
beg
back
(50% merino wool, 50% silk; 600 yd

[549m]/ 55g):
silver (MC), 1 skein
sunflower (CC), 1 skein
Gauge 22 sts and 34 rows = 4" in Mesh patt
Tools

Tapestry needle
beg
right front

end
right front
beg
sleeve
beg
left front
Summer16 Knitscene
61
Designer
Short-rows 1 and 2 Work in patt to last 6 sts,
Scarf
lished until piece measures 1" from CO, ending
Designer
With MC, CO 58 sts. Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise
with a WS row. Next row (RS) P1, work Wave
wyf, knit to end. Rep last row 6 more times,
chart over 57 (63, 69, 81, 87, 93) sts, place
ending with a WS row. Work Mesh chart until
marker (pm), p1, pm, work Wave chart over 123
piece measures 57" from CO, ending with a
(135, 147, 165, 177, 195) sts, pm, p1, pm, work
WS row. Next row Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to end.
Wave chart to last st, p1. Next row (WS) K1,
Rep last row 5 more times. Loosely BO all sts.
*work in chart patt to m, sl m, k1, sl m; rep from
I-cord
Shape waist: Dec row (RS) *Work in patt to 2
With CC, CO 4 sts. *Do not turn; sl sts to left
sts before m, k2tog, sl m, p1, sl m, ssk; rep from
needle without twisting, pull yarn around the
* once more, work in patt to end4 sts decd.
back and k4; rep from * until cord is about 126"
Rep Dec row every 20th (22nd, 22nd, 20th,
long. Break yarn leaving a 6" tail and draw tail
22nd, 22nd) row 3 (1, 1, 3, 1, 1) more time(s),
through live sts to fasten off.
then every 20th row 0 (2, 2, 0, 2, 2) times225
* once more, work in chart patt to last st, k1.
(249, 273, 315, 339, 369) sts rem: 54 (60, 66, 78,
Finishing
84, 90) sts each front, 1 st each seam, and 115
Block scarf to measurements. Weave in ends.
(127, 139, 157, 169, 187) back sts. Work 9 rows
Mark two parallel columns of eyelets on first
even. Inc row (RS) *Work in patt to m, LLI, sl m,
ROSUL ATE TA NK
p1, sl m, RLI; rep from * once more, work in patt
on scarf (there should be 3 staggered columns

of eyelets between marked columns). Beg at
Heather Zoppet ti
3 (2, 2, 3, 2, 2) more times, then every 22nd row
patt row of scarf about 1" apart and centered
page 20
CO edge, thread I-cord vertically through
to end4 sts incd. Rep Inc row every 20th row

0 (1, 1, 0, 1, 1) more time241 (265, 289, 331,
eyelets of one marked column to end of scarf,
355, 385) sts: 58 (64, 70, 82, 88, 94) sts each
thread it horizontally to other marked column,
front, 1 st each seam, and 123 (135, 147, 165,
then back down vertically to CO edge. Pull
B a a h Ya r n S a v a n n a h
Sizes 34 (37, 40, 46, 50, 54)" bust
CO, ending with a WS row. Divide for fronts
circumference, buttoned; shown in size

37", modeled with " of positive ease
Yarn Baah Yarn Savannah (80% wool,
10% nylon, 10% cashmere; 400 yd [366 m]/
100 g): periwinkle, 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5) skeins
Gauge 29 sts and 40 rows = 4" in Wave patt
and back: Next row (RS) Work to 7 (8, 9, 10,
Tools
back, BO 14 (16, 18, 20, 24, 28) sts, removing m,

work to end51 (56, 61, 72, 76, 80) sts rem for
k on WS
Size 5 (3.75 mm): 2440" circular (cir)

needle, depending on size you are making,
and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)
Markers (m)
Removable m
Stitch holders
Six " buttons
Tapestry needle
k2tog
knot in each end of I-cord and tie ends of cord

as desired.
177, 195) back sts. Work even until piece

measures 15 (15, 15, 15, 15, 15)" from
gently on ends of cord to gather scarf. Make a
Mesh
3
1
4 st
repeat
k on RS; p on WS
12, 14) sts before m and place 51 (56, 61, 72, 76,
80) sts just worked on holder for right front, BO
14 (16, 18, 20, 24, 28) sts, removing m, work to 7
(8, 9, 10, 12, 14) sts before m and place 111 (121,
131, 147, 155, 169) sts just worked on holder for
left front.
Left Front
Work 1 WS row even. Note: Armhole and neck
shaping occur simultaneously; read the foll
section all the way through before proceeding.
Shape armhole: At beg of RS rows, BO 3 sts 2
(2, 3, 3, 4, 5) times, BO 2 sts 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5)
times, then BO 1 st 2 (3, 3, 8, 8, 8) times, at the

same time, when armhole measures 1 (1,
Notes
neck as foll: Next row (WS) BO 19 (21, 23, 27,
This tank is worked back and forth in one piece
28, 25) sts, work in patt to end20 (20, 20, 20,
yo
sl 1 pwise wyf on WS
sl 1 pwise wyf on RS
1, 2, 2, 2)", ending with a RS row, shape
from the lower edge to the underarms, then
20, 22) sts rem when all shaping is complete.
divided for working the fronts and back
Work even until armhole measures 7 (7, 8,
separately.
pattern repeat

Body
With cir needle, CO 241 (265, 289, 331, 355,
385) sts. Do not join. Next row (WS) K1, *p1, k1;
rep from * to end. Work in rib patt as estab-
62
www.knitscene.com

shoulder using short-rows as foll:

next st, turn.
Love the
vintage-inspired
knits in this issue
of Knitscene?
Get more vintage
knitting patterns with the
Vintage Knitting
Design Collection!
These three books

will have you knitting
fun, fresh, and flirty

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3 Book Bundle - $34.99

www.bit.ly/Vintage-Knit-Design
2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3)"
Rep last 2 short-rows once more. Next row

6 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8)"
Designer
"
Back
Return 111 (121, 131, 147, 155, 169) back sts to
6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 7)"
7 (7, 8, 8, 8, 9)"
needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work

1 WS row even. Shape armholes: BO 3 sts at
body
beg of next 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 10) rows, BO 2 sts at

beg of next 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10) rows, then BO 1 st
15 (15, 15, 15, 15, 15)"
at beg of next 4 (6, 6, 16, 16, 16) rows87 (91,
31 (34, 37, 43, 46, 51)"
95, 97, 99, 103) sts rem. Work even until

armhole measures 7 (7, 8, 8, 8, 9)",
ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row
(RS) Work 20 (20, 20, 20, 20, 22) sts in patt and
33 (36, 39, 45, 49, 53)"
place these sts on holder for right shoulder, BO

47 (51, 55, 57, 59, 59) sts, work to end20 (20,
20, 20, 20, 22) sts rem for left shoulder. Left
Wave
k on RS; p on WS
shoulder: Work 1 WS row. Shape shoulder
11
using short-rows as foll:
k on WS
next st, turn.

k2tog, leaving both sts on needle, knit first

st; sl both sts off needle
5
3

1

6 st repeat
skip first st on left needle, knit 2nd st tbl,

k2tog tbl; sl both sts off needle
pattern repeat

with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder. Right
shoulder: Return 20 (20, 20, 20, 20, 22) held
right shoulder sts to needle and, with WS
ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder using
(mark this new st); rep from * 3 more times,
facing, rejoin yarn. Shape shoulder using
short-rows as foll:
work in rib patt as established to end8 sts
short-rows as foll:
decd. Next row (WS) Work in patt. Rep last 2

next st, turn.

next st, turn.

rows 3 more times149 (157, 171, 175, 185,

185) sts rem. BO all sts in patt. Ruffle: With cir
needle and RS facing, beg at top of left

neckband, pick up and knit 117 (119, 119, 119,
WS of ruffle faces RS of garment. Next row (RS
of ruffle) *K1f&b; rep from * to end234 (238,
238, 238, 242, 250) sts. Next row (WS) Purl.

Next row (RS) Knit. Rep last 2 rows until ruffle
121, 125) sts evenly along left front edge. Note:
Finishing
measures 1" from pick-up row. Knit 3 rows.
Right Front
Block to measurements. Join shoulders using
BO all sts. Button band: With cir needle and
Return 51 (56, 61, 72, 76, 80) held right front sts
three-needle BO. Armhole edging: With dpn
RS facing, beg at top of left neckband, pick up
to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn.
and RS facing, beg at center of underarm and
and knit 117 (119, 119, 119, 121, 125) sts evenly
Note: Armhole and neck shaping occur
pick up and knit 114 (124, 134, 142, 150, 162)
along left front edge to bottom hem, using
simultaneously; read the foll section all the
sts evenly around armhole edge. Pm and join
same sts as for ruffle. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1".
way through before proceeding. Shape
in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1". BO all sts in
BO all sts in patt. Sew 6 evenly spaced buttons
armhole: At beg of WS rows, BO 3 sts 2 (2, 3,
patt. Neckband: With cir needle and RS
on button band. Buttonhole band: With cir
3, 4, 5) times, BO 2 sts 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5) times,
facing, beg at right front neck edge and pick
needle and RS facing, beg at bottom hem, pick
then BO 1 st 2 (3, 3, 8, 8, 8) times, at the same
up and knit 181 (189, 203, 207, 217, 217) sts
up and knit 117 (119, 119, 119, 121, 125) sts
time, when armhole measures 1 (1, 1, 2,
evenly along neck edge. Do not join. Next row
evenly along right front edge to top of collar.
2, 2)", ending with a WS row, shape neck as
(WS) P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Place
Work in k1, p1 rib for ", ending with a WS
foll: Next row (RS) BO 19 (21, 23, 27, 28, 25) sts,
removable m on knit st nearest each of 4 neck
row. Buttonhole row (RS) Work in patt,
work in patt to end20 (20, 20, 20, 20, 22) sts
corners. Dec row (RS) *Work in rib as
working a [yo, k2tog] across from each button.
rem when all shaping is complete. Work even
established to 1 st before marked st, remove
Cont in rib patt until band measures 1". BO all
until armhole measures 7 (7, 8, 8, 8, 9)",
m, sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2 sl sts over
sts in patt. Weave in ends.
64
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TA K E A S T E P I N A
NEW DIRECTION!
Go beyond top-down or toe-up construction in
New Directions in Sock Knitting. In the eighteen
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The socks in this collection use a variety of knitting
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in both traditional and innovative ways. These
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InterweaveStore.com
Tropical
CORDI A TA NK
Ke r r i B l um e r
page 2 5
to m] 2 times. Rep last rnd once more. Change
k2tog, knit to 4 sts before m, ssk, k1, pm, sl 1
to larger needle. Set-up rnd *Work 11 (11, 15,
pwise, remove m, transfer st from right needle
15, 19, 19, 19) sts in rib, pm, knit to 11 (11, 15,
to left needle, ssp, [k1, p1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8)
15, 19, 19, 19) sts before m, pm, work in rib to
times, k14 sts decd. Work 1 WS row. Rep last
m; rep from * once more. Cont in patt until
2 rows 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 1) more time64 (74, 84,
piece measures 3" from CO. Shape waist:
94, 100, 110, 120) sts rem; 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) sts
Dec rnd *Work in patt to m, k1, k2tog, knit to
for chart. Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9)
3 sts before m, ssk, k1, sl m, work in patt to m;
times, sl m, k1, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before m,
rep from * once more4 sts decd. Rep Dec
ssk, sl m, work chart to m, k2tog, knit to 3 sts
rnd every 10th rnd 8 (4, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0) more times,
before m, ssk, k1, sl m, [p1, k1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9)
then every 8th rnd 1 (6, 11, 5, 2, 0, 0) time(s),
times2 sts decd. Rep Dec row every RS row
then every 6th rnd 0 (0, 0, 8, 12, 14, 10) times,
4 (7, 9, 12, 11, 14, 16) more times54 (58, 64,
then every 4th rnd 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 7) time(s)
68, 76, 80, 86) sts rem; 16 (22, 26, 32, 32, 38, 42)
138 (158, 178, 194, 214, 230, 250) sts rem. Work
sts for chart; Row 11 (17, 21, 27, 27, 33, 37) of
8 rnds even. Inc rnd *Work in patt to m, k1, M1,
chart is complete. Work 1 WS row.
knit to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m, work in patt
Sizes 42 (46)" only:
to m; rep from * once more4 sts incd. Rep
Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 9 times, sl m, k1 (0), sssk,
Inc rnd every 12 (12, 12, 8, 9, 7, 7)th rnd 2 (2, 2,
sl m, work chart to m, k3tog, k1 (0), sl m, [p1,
3, 3, 4, 4) more times150 (170, 190, 210, 230,
k1] 9 times74 (78) sts rem; 34 (40) sts for
250, 270) sts. Work even until piece measures
chart; Row 29 (35) of chart is complete. Work
17 (17, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18)" from CO.
1 WS row.
Divide for front and back: Next rnd K2tog,
Sizes 27 (31, 35, 39, 42)" only:
[p1, k1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) times, sl 1 pwise,
Next row (RS) [K1, p1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9) times, sl m,
remove m, transfer st from right needle to left
knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, work chart to
needle, p2tog, pm, k1, k2tog, k20 (25, 26, 31,
m, k2tog, knit to m, [p1, k1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9) times.
32, 37, 42), pm for chart, k1, k2tog, k2, pm for
Work 1 WS row. Rep last 2 rows 7 (6, 3, 2, 0)
Sizes 27 (31, 35, 39, 42, 46, 50)"
chart, knit to 4 sts before m, ssk, k1, pm, sl 1
more times32 (36, 34, 38, 36) sts for chart;

modeled with 5" of negative ease
Yarn Stitch Sprouts Yellowstone (80% wool,
20% silk; 285 yd [261 m]/100 g):
#SSY008 caldera, 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins
Gauge 20 sts and 36 rnds = 4" in St st on
larger needle
Row 28 (32, 30, 34, 32) of chart is complete.
Size 50" only:
Front
1 WS row. Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 9 times, sl m,
Tools
Work 1 WS row. Shape armholes: Dec row
k1, k2tog, sl m, work chart to m, ssk, k1, sl m,
Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" and 2440" circular

(cir) needle, depending on size you are
making
Size 6 (4 mm): 2440" cir needle
Markers (m)
Cable needle (cn)
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle
(RS) K1, [p1, k1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) times, sl 1
[p1, k1] 9 times82 sts rem. Work 1 WS row.
Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 9 times, sl m, ssk, sl m,
to left needle, p2tog, pm, k1, k2tog, knit to 2 sts
work chart to m, k2tog, sl m, [p1, k1] 9
before m, ssk, sl m, work Yoke Inc chart to m,
times80 sts rem. Work 1 WS row.
Notes
This tank is worked in the round to the underarm, then the front and back are worked
separately back and forth.
Body
With smaller needle, CO 89 (101, 113, 125, 137,
147, 161) sts, place marker (pm) for side, CO 89
(101, 113, 125, 137, 147, 161) sts178 (202, 226,
250, 274, 294, 322) sts. Pm and join in the rnd.
Knit 4 rnds. Next rnd [P1, *k1, p1; rep from *
66
www.knitscene.com
Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 9 times, sl m, k1, k2tog,
135) sts on holder for back68 (78, 88, 98, 108,
k1, sl m, beg and ending as indicated for your
118, 128) sts rem for front.
size, work Row 3 of Yoke chart to m, k1, ssk,

k1, sl m, [p1, k1] 9 times84 sts rem. Work
2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)"
6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 8, 9)"
"
17 (17, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18)"
times, ssk, place next 75 (85, 95, 105, 115, 125,
7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9 )"
S t i t c h S p r o u t s Ye l l o w s t o n e
2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3)"
27 (31, 35, 39, 42, 46, 50)"

25 (29 , 32, 35, 39, 42, 46)"
body
33 (38, 42, 47, 51, 55, 60)"
Yoke Increase
k on RS; p on WS
Tropical
37
p on RS; k on WS
35
yo
33
31
pattern repeat
29
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1,

k1 from cn
27
25
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k1,

k1 from cn
23
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1,

p1 from cn
21
19
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, p1,

k1 from cn
17
15
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2,

k2 from cn
13
11
Yoke
5
3
1
4 sts to 42 sts
end
50"
end
27"
end
46"
end
39"
7 st repeat
beg
27"
end
35"
beg
50"
beg
46"
beg
35"
beg
31"
42"
end
31"
42"
beg
39"
All sizes:
4) times, k1, sl m, yo, knit to last 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8,
10 (10, 12, 13, 15, 15, 15) sts rem. Next row
Next row (RS) [K1, p1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9) times,
8) sts, [p1, k1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times17 (17,
(WS) Work to last 2 sts, ssp9 (9, 11, 12, 14,
sl m, k1, sl m, beg and ending as indicated for
21, 23, 27, 27, 27) sts rem for right strap. Right
14, 14) sts rem. Next row (RS) BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7,
your size, work Row 1 (1, 3, 3, 1, 1, 1) of Yoke
strap: Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) Sssk,
7, 7) sts, work to end5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts rem.
chart to m, k1, sl m, [p1, k1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9)
work to m, sl m, yo, work in patt to end1 st
Next row (WS) Work to last 2 sts, ssp4 (4, 5,
times. Work 5 (5, 5, 1, 1, 1, 1) row(s) even in
decd. Rep Dec row every RS row 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3,
5, 6, 6, 6) sts rem. BO all sts.
patt, removing all m on last row. Set-up for
3) more time(s)15 (15, 18, 20, 23, 23, 23) sts
straps: Strap shift set-up row (RS) [K1, p1] 2
rem. Work 1 WS row. Next row (RS) Ssk,
Back
(2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, yo, pm, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3,
remove m, work in patt to end14 (14, 17, 19,
Return 75 (85, 95, 105, 115, 125, 135) held back
4, 4, 4) times, k1, ssp, work in patt to last 11
22, 22, 22) sts rem. Work 12 rows even, ending
sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin yarn.
(11, 15, 15, 19, 19, 19) sts, p2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3,
with a RS row. Shape shoulder: Next row
Next row (RS) K2tog, [p1, k1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8)
3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, pm, yo, [p1, k1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4,
(WS) BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts, work to end10
times, sl 1 pwise, remove m, transfer st from
4, 4) times44 (48, 50, 54, 56, 60, 62) sts
(10, 12, 13, 15, 15, 15) sts rem. Next row (RS)
right needle to left needle, p2tog, pm, k1,
between m. Work 1 WS row. Strap shift row
Work to last 2 sts, k2tog9 (9, 11, 12, 14, 14,
k2tog, knit to 4 sts before m, ssk, k1, pm, sl 1
(RS) [K1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, knit to m,
14) sts rem. Next row (WS) BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7)
yo, sl m, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, ssp,
sts, work to end5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts rem.
work in patt to 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11) sts before m,
Next row (RS) Work to last 2 sts, k2tog4 (4,
times, ssk69 (79, 89, 99, 109, 119, 129) sts
p2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, sl m,
5, 5, 6, 6, 6) sts rem. With WS facing, BO all sts.
yo, knit to last 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) sts, [p1, k1] 2 (2,
Left strap: Return 17 (17, 21, 23, 27, 27, 27)
rem. Work 1 WS row. Shape armholes: Dec

row (RS) K1, [p1, k1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) times, sl 1
3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times. Rep Strap shift row every RS
held sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin
row 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6) more times34 (38, 40,
yarn. Dec row (WS) P2tog, work in patt to
to left needle, p2tog, pm, k1, k2tog, knit to 4
40, 42, 46, 48) sts between m. Work 1 WS row.
end1 st decd. Shift row (RS) Work in patt to
sts before m, ssk, k1, pm, sl 1 pwise, remove m,
Shape neck: Next row (RS) [K1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3,
m, yo, sl m, work in patt to last 2 sts, k2tog.
transfer st from right needle to left needle, ssp,
4, 4, 4) times, knit to m, yo, sl m, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3,
Rep last 2 rows 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3) more time(s),
[k1, p1] 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) times, k14 sts decd.
3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, ssp, place 17 (17, 21, 23, 27,
then work Dec row once more14 (14, 17, 19,
Work 1 WS row. Rep last 2 rows 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1,
27, 27) sts just worked on holder for left strap,
22, 22, 22) sts rem. Work 12 rows even, ending
1) more time65 (75, 85, 95, 101, 111, 121) sts
BO 19 (23, 21, 21, 19, 23, 25) sts, k2tog, pass st
with a WS row. Shape shoulder: Next row
rem. Dec row (RS) [K1, p1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9)
rem from BO over k2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4,
(RS) BO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts, work to end
times, sl m, k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before m,

Summer16 Knitscene
67
ssk, k1, sl m, [p1, k1] 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9) times2
Notes
sts decd. Rep Dec row every RS row 4 (7, 9, 12,
When working the Chevron chart, do not break
Tropical
12, 15, 19) more times55 (59, 65, 69, 75, 79,
yarns after color changes, but carry yarns
81) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures
loosely along the side edge until they are
4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5)", ending with a WS row
needed again. Bring new color under old
and removing m on last row. Set-up for
color at each color change. Break the con-
straps: Strap shift set-up row (RS) [K1, p1] 2
trasting color after the chevron pattern sec-
(2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, yo, pm, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3,
tion is complete and continue with the main
4, 4, 4) times, k1, ssp, knit to last 11 (11, 15, 15,
color only.
19, 19, 19) sts, p2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

times, k1, pm, yo, [p1, k1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)
Scarf
times45 (49, 51, 55, 57, 61, 63) sts between
With MC, CO 98 sts. *Work Set-up Rows 1 and 2
m. Work 1 WS row. Strap shift row (RS) [K1,
of Chevron chart once, then work Rows 112 of
p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, knit to m, yo, sl m,
chart 6 times, then work Rows 110 once more.
[k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, ssp, knit to 7
Break CC. With MC, work 54 rows in St st; rep
(7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11) sts before m, p2tog, [k1, p1] 2
from * 2 more times. Work Set-up Rows 1 and 2
(2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, k1, sl m, yo, knit to last 4
of chart once, then work Rows 112 of chart 6
(4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) sts, [p1, k1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)
times, then work Rows 110 once more. Break
times. Rep Strap shift row every RS row 4 (4, 4,

6, 6, 6, 6) more times35 (39, 41, 41, 43, 47, 49)
sts between m. Work 1 WS row. Shape neck:
Next row (RS) [K1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times,
CC. With MC, BO all sts.
COMMELINA SCARF
Finishing
S a r a h T hi e n e m a n
Weave in ends. Block to measurements.
page 26
knit to m, yo, sl m, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)
times, k1, ssp, place 17 (17, 21, 23, 27, 27, 27)
Sarah Thieneman can be found on Ravelry
sts just worked on holder for right strap, BO 20
as SarahDianneT.
C a s c a d e Ya r n s U l t r a P i m a
(24, 22, 22, 20, 24, 26) sts, k2tog, pass st rem
from BO over k2tog, [k1, p1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)
times, k1, sl m, yo, knit to last 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8)
sts, [p1, k1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times17 (17, 21,
Size 17" wide and 56" long

Yarn Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (100% pima
smaller 16" cir needle and RS facing, beg at
cotton; 220 yd [201 m]/100 g):

#3735 jade (MC), 3 skeins
Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Paints
(100% pima cotton; 220 yd [201 m]/100 g):
#9782 carnival mix (CC), 2 skeins
Gauge 23 sts and 27 rows = 4" in St st; 29
sts and 42 rows = 4" in Chevron patt
left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 18 (18, 19,
Tools
20, 21, 21, 21) sts evenly spaced along left front

Tapestry needle
23, 27, 27, 27) sts rem for left strap. Left strap:
Work as for front right strap. Right strap:
Work as for front left strap.
Finishing
Sew shoulder seams. Neck edging: With
strap, 20 (24, 22, 22, 20, 24, 26) sts along front
with MC, k on RS; p on WS

with CC, k on RS; p on WS
with MC, k on WS
with CC, k on WS
sl 1 pwise wyb on RS;
sl 1 pwise wyb on RS;
neck BO, 18 (18, 19, 20, 21, 21, 21) sts along
pattern repeat
right front strap to shoulder, 18 (18, 19, 20, 21,
21, 21) sts along right back strap to back neck
BO, 21 (25, 23, 23, 21, 25, 27) sts along back
neck BO, and 18 (18, 19, 20, 21, 21, 21) sts along
Chevron
left back strap to shoulder113 (121, 121, 125,

125, 133, 137) sts total. Pm and join in the rnd.
11
Knit 4 rnds. With larger needle, BO all sts.

Kerri Blumer is based in Columbus, Ohio,

where she spends her days as a technical
designer in the fashion industry and her
nights growing her knit design business.
You can find her on Ravelry as kerriknits, or
follow her knitting adventures on her blog at
www.kerriknits.tumblr.com.
68
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5
3
1
set-up 2
set-up 1
24 st repeat
Stitches
KOK: (K1, yo, k1) in same st2 sts incd.
Front
CO 67 (83, 97, 113, 127, 141) sts. Mark center st
with removable m. Inc row (RS) Knit to
marked center st, KOK (see Stitches), knit to
end2 sts incd. Next row (WS) Knit. Rep last
Tropical
from the top down and seamed.
16 (18, 20, 22, 23, 25)"
This tank is worked back and forth in pieces
1"
17 (17, 18, 18, 19, 19)"
Notes
7 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9)"
front
&
back
19 (21, 23, 25, 27, 30)"
2 rows 8 more times85 (101, 115, 131, 145,

159) sts. Next row (RS) BO 16 (19, 21, 24, 26,
28) sts, knit to marked st, KOK, knit to end71
(84, 96, 109, 121, 133) sts rem. Next row (WS)
A LPINI A TA NK
BO 16 (19, 21, 24, 26, 28) sts, knit to end55
C or r in a F e r g u s o n
(65, 75, 85, 95, 105) sts rem. Work Rows 120 of
page 2 9
k on RS; p on WS
p on RS; k on WS
Increase chart for your size once, then work
k1tbl on RS
Rows 110 once more85 (95, 105, 115, 125,
k1tbl on WS
135) sts. Place removable m at edges for top of

A n c i e n t A r t s He a v y L a c e
side seam. Rep Rows 120 of Body chart for
yo
your size until piece measures 12 (12, 13, 13,
Sizes 32 (36, 40, 44, 47, 51)" bust
14, 14)" from m, measured along side, ending
circumference; shown in size 32",

modeled with " of negative ease
Yarn Ancient Arts Heavy Lace (65% silk,
35% linen; 765 yd [700 m]/113 g):
#RG01 raspberry gelato, 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2)
skein(s)
Gauge 18 sts and 27 rows = 4" in charted
patt; 18 sts and 30 rows = 4" in garter st
with a RS row. Knit 1 WS row. Pm on center st.
Tools
time(s).

Removable markers (m)
Tapestry needle
Short-row 5 (RS) Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and next
k2tog
ssk
Shape sides using short-rows as foll:
Short-row 1 (RS) K3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4), turn.

Short-row 2 (WS) Yo, knit to end.
Short-row 3 Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and next st),
k3tog
sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso
sl 1 pwise wyf on RS
k2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3), turn.
Short-row 4 Yo, knit to end.
Rep last 2 short-rows 11 (7, 2, 11, 6, 1) more

O
(k1, yo, k1) in same st

no stitch
st), k2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4), turn.
Short-row 6 (WS) Yo, knit to end.
pattern repeat
Increase, sizes 32", 40", 47"

O
19
17
15
13
11
10 st repeat
1
10 st repeat
marked st
Summer16 Knitscene
69

timesfirst half completed. Next row (RS)
Short-row 5 (WS) Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and next

st), k2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4), turn.
Finishing
Tropical
Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and next st), knit to end.
Short-row 6 (RS) Yo, knit to end.
Sew shoulder seams. Sew side seams from
Short-row 1 (WS) K3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4), turn.

Short-row 2 (RS) Yo, knit to end.
Short-row 3 Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and next st),
lower edge to m.
k2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3), turn.
times. Next row (WS) Knit to yo, k2tog (yo and

next st), knit to end. Knit 13 rows. With WS
facing, loosely BO all sts kwise.
Short-row 4 Yo, knit to end.

Back
time(s).
Work as for front.
Corrina Ferguson didnt start knitting until

she moved to Florida, but fortunately shes
become one of those crazy Florida people
who think 60 is cold. Corrina is a knitwear
designer, teacher, and author of Warm
Days, Cool Knits (Interweave, 2015).
Increase, sizes 36", 44", 51"

O
19
17
15
13
11
10 st repeat
1
10 st repeat
marked st
Body, sizes 32", 40", 47"

O
19
17
15
13
11
10 st repeat
10 st repeat
marked st
Body, sizes 36", 44", 51"

O
19
17
15
13
11
10 st repeat
10 st repeat
marked st
70
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Row 2 (WS) K1, *p1tbl, k1; rep from * to end.
measures about 9" from shoulder m. Place
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.
removable m at armhole edge to mark beg of
Right Side
Work in patt to m, sl m, ssk, work in patt to
Back: Using a provisional method, CO 108
end1 st decd. Rep Dec row every 10th row 4
(124) sts. Set-up row 1 (RS) K1, work Twisted
more times89 (105) sts rem. Work 9 rows
Tropical
sleeve shaping. Shape sleeve: Dec row (RS)
Rib (see Stitches) over 19 sts, place marker
even, ending with Row 10 of chart. Dec row
(pm), knit to last 20 sts, pm, work Twisted Rib
(RS) Work in patt to m, sl m, ssk (removing m),
over 19 sts, k1. Set-up row 2 (WS) Sl 1 (see
work in patt to end88 (104) sts rem. Work
Notes), work in rib patt to m, sl m, purl to m,
through Row 20 of chart, then work Rows 120
sl m, work in rib patt to last st, p1. Next row
of chart 5 more times. Next row (RS) Work in
(RS) Sl 1, work in rib patt to m, sl m, [work
patt to m, sl m, knit to last m, removing chart
Lace chart over 16 sts, pm] 3 (4) times, knit to
m as you come to them, sl m, work in patt to
m, sl m, work in rib patt to last st, k1. Cont in
end. Next row (WS) Work in patt to m, remove
patt as established until Rows 120 of chart
m, purl to last m, remove m, work in patt to
have been worked 5 times, then work Rows
end. Break yarn and place sts on holder.
18 of chart once morepiece measures
Left Side
about 13" from CO. Shape sleeve: Next row
HELICONI A WR AP
Nor i ko H o
page 3 0
T h e F i b r e C o m p a ny M e a d o w
(RS) Work in patt to m, sl m, M1R, pm, work in
Back: Using a provisional method, CO 108
patt to end109 (125) sts. Work 9 rows even,
(124) sts. Set-up row 1 (RS) K1, work Twisted
working new st in St st. Inc row (RS) Work in
Rib over 19 sts, pm, knit to last 20 sts, pm,
patt to m, sl m, M1R, knit to m, sl m, work in
work Twisted Rib over 19 sts, k1. Set-up row 2
patt to end1 st incd. Rep Inc row every 10th
(WS) Sl 1, work in rib patt to m, sl m, purl to m,
row 4 more times114 (130) sts. Work 1 WS
sl m, work in rib patt to last st, p1. Next row
row even, ending with Row 20 of chart. Place a
(RS) Sl 1, work in rib patt to m, sl m, k20, [pm,
removable m at armhole edge to mark end of
work Lace chart over 16 sts] 3 (4) times, sl m,
Sizes 33 (39)" back width at underarm;
sleeve shaping. Work 2 rows even. Shape
work in rib patt to last st, k1. Cont in patt as
shown in size 33" on model with 37" bust

Yarn The Fibre Company Meadow
(40% merino wool, 25% baby llama,
20%silk, 15% linen; 545 yd [498 m]/100 g):
cosmos, 3 (4) skeins
Yarn distributed by Kelbourne Woolens
Gauge 29 sts and 34 rows = 4" in St st
neck: Dec row (RS) Work in patt to 2 sts
established until Rows 120 of chart have
before last m, k2tog, sl m, work in patt to
been worked 5 times, then work Rows 18 of
end1 st decd. Rep Dec row every 4th row 18
chart once morepiece measures about 13"
more times95 (111) sts rem. Work 3 rows
from CO. Shape sleeve: Next row (RS) Work
even, ending with Row 18 of chart. Dec row
in patt to last m, sl m, M1L, pm, work in patt to
(RS) Work in patt to 1 st before last chart m,
end109 (125) sts. Work 9 rows even, working
sl next st from left needle to right needle,
new st in St st. Inc row (RS) Work in patt to
Tools
remove m, sl st back to left needle, k2tog, sl m,
last chart m, sl m, knit to m, M1L, sl m, work in

Markers (m)
Removable m
Tapestry needle
Stitch holder
work in patt to end94 (110) sts rem. Work 1
patt to end1 st incd. Rep Inc row every 10th
WS row even, ending with Row 20 of chart
row 4 more times114 (130) sts. Work 1 WS
armhole measures about 9" from m. Place
row even, ending with Row 20 of chart. Place a
removable m at armhole edge to mark
removable m at armhole edge to mark end of
shoulder. Front: Cont in patt as established
sleeve shaping. Work 2 rows even. Shape
until Rows 120 of Lace chart have been
neck: Dec row (RS) Work in patt to m, sl m,
worked 4 times from shoulder mpiece
ssk, work in patt to end1 st decd. Rep Dec

5"
14 (16)"
Notes
This kimono is worked back and forth in two
separate pieces, which are seamed together
9"
9"
at the center back.

Slip stitches at beginning of right-side rows
knitwise with yarn in back; slip stitches at
beginning of wrong-side rows purlwise with
16 (19 )"
right side
left side
yarn in front.
19"
Stitches
Twisted Rib: (odd number of sts)
13 (16)"
Row 1 (RS) P1, *k1tbl, p1; rep from * to end.

15 (18)"
72
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Gauge 15 sts and 19 rows = 4" in patt

Tools
Tropical
row every 4th row 18 more times95 (111) sts
Remove waste yarn from provisional CO and
rem. Work 3 rows even, ending with Row 18 of
with RS facing, place 108 (124) sts on empty
chart. Dec row (RS) Work in patt to m, sl m,
needle with side edge at needle tip. Sl 3 I-cord
k3tog (removing m), yo, [k2tog, yo] 4 times, k6,
sts to needle holding provisional CO sts. BO all
sl m, work in patt to end94 (110) sts rem.
sts as before3 I-cord sts rem. Fold right side
Work 1 WS row even, ending with Row 20 of
at shoulder m in same way. With RS facing,
chartarmhole measures about 9" from m.
place 94 (110) held right side sts on empty
Place removable m at armhole edge to mark
needle with side edge at needle tip. Remove
shoulder. Front: Cont in patt as established
waste yarn from provisional CO and with RS
until Rows 120 of Lace chart have been
facing, place 108 (124) right side sts on same
Notes
worked 4 times from shoulder mpiece
needle, beg with side edge and ending with
This scarf is worked back and forth. A circular
measures about 9" from shoulder m. Place
center back edge at needle tip. Sl 3 I-cord sts
needle is used to accommodate the large
removable m at armhole edge to mark beg of
to needle holding right side sts. BO all sts as
number of stitches.
sleeve shaping. Shape sleeve: Dec row (RS)
before3 I-cord sts rem. Break yarn, leaving a
Work in patt to 2 sts before last m, k2tog, sl m,
6" tail and draw tail through live sts.

Markers (m)
Tapestry needle
Scarf
Using the backward-loop method, CO 319 sts.
work in patt to end1 st decd. Rep Dec row

every 10th row 4 more times89 (105) sts rem.
Finishing
Work 7 rows even, ending with Row 8 of chart.
Sew center back seam, beg from I-cord and
(pm), k49, pm, k50.
Dec row (RS) Work in patt to just before last
ending at first neck dec. Sew side seams, beg
ssk of last chart rep, work sssk instead
from I-cord and ending at removable sleeve m.
Row 1 (RS) Knit.

Row 2 (WS) *K1, wrapping yarn 2 times around
(removing m), sl m, work in patt to end88
Do not join. Next row (WS) K220, place marker
then work Rows 120 of chart 5 more times.
Noriko Ho works as an optometrist by day
Next row (RS) Work in patt to m, sl m, knit to
and knitwear designer by night. She can be

found online at www.norichanknits.com and
on Ravelry as norichan.
last m, removing chart m as you come to them,

sl m, work in patt to end. Next row (WS) Work
right needle; rep from * to m, sl m, purl to m,

sl m, **k1, wrapping yarn 2 times around
(104) sts rem. Work through Row 20 of chart,
right needle; rep from ** to end.
Row 3 Knit to m, dropping extra wraps, sl m,

knit to m, sl m, knit to end, dropping extra
wraps.
Row 4 Knit to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, knit
in patt to m, remove m, purl to last m, remove
to end.
m, work in patt to end, then using the cable
Row 5 Knit.
Row 6 *K1, wrapping yarn 4 times around right
method, CO 3 sts for I-cord edging. I-cord

edging: Use the I-cord method to BO sts, and
at the same time, join left and right sides as
needle; rep from * to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m,
foll: *K2, k2tog tbl, sl 3 sts just worked back to
**k1, wrapping yarn 4 times around right
left needle; rep from * to last 4 sts (3 I-cord sts
needle; rep from ** to end.
Row 7 Knit to m, dropping extra wraps, sl m,
and 1 left side st rem), k2, k2tog tbl3 I-cord
knit to m, sl m, knit to end, dropping extra
sts rem. Fold left side at shoulder m, with RS
wraps.
facing out and being careful not to twist.
Row 8 Knit to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, knit

k on RS; p on WS
to end.
ssk
Rep Rows 18 five more times, then work
k2tog
Rows 14 once more. With RS facing, loosely
yo
BO all sts to m, then break yarn, leaving a 3'

tail. Using tail as working yarn, BO 2 sts, pull
yarn tail through last BO st, *drop 1 st from left
Lace
needle and ravel to CO edge, [bring yarn

forward over right needle] 2 times, k1, pull
19
17
15
13
yarn through last st, drop next 2 sts and ravel
IPOMOE A SCARF
to CO edge, [bring yarn forward over right
A my Pa lm e r
needle] 3 times, k1, pull yarn through last st;

rep from * 8 more times. Drop all loops from
page 3 3
right needle. Rejoin yarn from ball and BO all
11
rem sts.
9
7
C l a s s i c E l i t e Ya r n s C e r r o
3
1
16 sts
74
www.knitscene.com
Finishing
Size 10" wide and 111" long

Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Cerro (85% cotton,
15% alpaca; 150 yd [137 m]/50 g):
#7147 denim, 4 skeins
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*4#/t$"/
Tropical
This helps anchor the tall stitch from the
needle. Knit 1 rnd. Change to smaller needle.
larger needle round and keeps the join of
Purl 1 rnd.
round neater.
All sizes:
When binding off stitches for the hem and
Next rnd K41 (45, 48, 52, 57), pm, k33 (40, 42,
sleeve cap, and subsequently casting on
55, 60), pm, k81 (90, 95, 105, 114), pm, k33 (40,
stitches for underarm, do so as loosely as
42, 55, 60), pm, k41 (45, 47, 52, 57). Knit 0 (1, 2,
possible.
0, 0) rnd(s). Next rnd [Knit to m, sl m, purl to m,

sl m] 2 times, knit to end. Next rnd Knit. Next
Stitches
Condo Patt for Swatching:
ARUNDINA TEE
J e s i e O s t e r m ill e r
page 35
rnd [Knit to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m] 2 times,

knit to end. Shape armholes: Next rnd [Knit
Row 1 (WS) With smaller needle, purl.

Row 2 Knit.
Rows 38 Rep Rows 1 and 2 three times.
Row 9 Knit.
Row 10 Change to larger needle; knit.
Row 11 Change to smaller needle; knit.
Row 12 Knit.
Row 13 Purl.
Rows 1419 Rep Rows 12 and 13 three times.
Row 20 Purl.
Row 21 Change to larger needle; purl.
Row 22 Change to smaller needle; purl.
Rep Rows 122 for patt.
to m, remove m, loosely BO 33 (40, 42, 55, 60)

sts, removing m] 2 times, knit to end163
(180, 190, 209, 228) body sts rem.
Body
Next rnd K41 (45, 48, 52, 57), turn, then using
the knitted method, loosely CO 14 (15, 19, 19,
20) sts, turn, k81 (90, 95, 105, 114), turn, CO 14
(15, 19, 19, 20) sts, turn, k41 (45, 47, 52,
57)191 (210, 228, 247, 268) sts. Knit 2 (2, 2, 1,
2) rnd(s). *Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger needle.
Knit 1 rnd. Change to smaller needle. Purl 1
rnd. Knit 8 rnds; rep from * once more. Purl 1
rnd. Change to larger needle. Knit 1 rnd.
P ly m o u t h Ya r n C o m p a ny D r i f t o n e
Yoke
Change to smaller needle. Next rnd P48 (53,
With smaller needle, CO 110 (114, 120, 122,
57, 62, 67), pm, p96 (105, 114, 124, 134), pm,
Sizes 36 (40, 43, 47, 51)" bust circumfer-
124) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd.
p48 (52, 57, 62, 67). Dec rnd *Knit to 4 sts
ence; shown in size 36", modeled with

3" of positive ease
Yarn Plymouth YarnCompany Driftone
(100% mercerized cotton; 142 yd [130 m]/50 g):
#0008 Red tone, 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) skeins
Gauge 21 sts and 23 rows = 4" in Condo
patt on smaller and larger needles
Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Inc rnd *K2,
before m, k2tog, k2, sl m, k2, ssk; rep from *
yo; rep from * to end165 (171, 180, 183, 186)
once more, knit to end4 sts decd. Knit 7
sts. Knit 7 (8, 9, 6, 7) rnds. Purl 1 rnd. Change
rnds. Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger needle. Knit
to larger needle. Knit 1 rnd. Change to smaller
1 rnd. Change to smaller needle. Purl 1 rnd.
needle. Purl 1 rnd. Inc rnd (see Notes) *K3 (3, 3,
Rep Dec rnd4 sts decd. Knit 7 rnds. Rep last
2, 2), yo; rep from * to last 0 (0, 0, 1, 0) st, k0 (0,
11 rnds 4 more times167 (186, 204, 223, 244)
0, 1, 0)220 (228, 240, 274, 279) sts. Knit 7 (8,
sts rem. Knit 0 (0, 4, 5, 4) rnds. [Purl 1 rnd, knit
Tools
9, 6, 7) rnds. Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger
1 rnd] 2 times. Purl 1 rnd. Loosely BO all sts.
Size 5 (3.75 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle

Markers (m)
needle. Knit 1 rnd. Change to smaller needle.

Purl 1 rnd. Inc rnd *K24 (7, 7, 6, 4), yo; rep from
Finishing
* to last 4 (4, 2, 4, 3) sts, k4 (4, 2, 4, 3)229
(260, 274, 319, 348) sts. Knit 7 (8, 9, 6, 7) rnds.

Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger needle. Knit 1 rnd.
Change to smaller needle. Purl 1 rnd.

Notes
Knit 6 (7) rnds. Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger
Jesie Ostermiller is a designer who lives in

Logan, Utah, with her husband, her two
little boys, and her ever-growing yarn stash.
She can be found on Ravelry as knittyjo.
This pullover is worked in the round from the

top down. The capped sleeves are formed by
21 (21, 22, 23, 23)"
binding off yoke stitches and casting on

stitches for the underarm.
The Condo pattern for swatching (see Stitches)
6 (7, 7, 7, 8)"
is worked flat.
When the Increase round on yoke is worked two
9 (10, 11, 14, 15)"
rounds after a larger needle round, work the

first stitch of the Increase round as follows:
body
insert tip of right needle into stitch below

first stitch on left needle, right below purl
36 (40, 43, 47, 51)"
bump, and knit it together with stitch above.
31 (35, 38, 42, 46)"
76
www.knitscene.com
16 (16, 17, 17, 17)"
Key
MC
CC1
CC2
CC3
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
F
body
E
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
D
C
2
1
3 2 1
11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4
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Finishing
Indigo
Markers (m)
Tapestry needle
" wide elastic 1" longer than waist
circumference
Block skirt to measurements. Thread elastic

through waistband, overlapping ends by 1".
Sew ends of elastic tog securely. Remove 4 CO
sts from holder and sew them to the 4 sts knit
on the joining rnd to complete the waistband
casing. Weave in ends.
Notes
Jessica Anderson can be found knitting

when she isnt on an adventure with her
husband and five children. To read more
about her knitting and busy life, you can find
her at www.allinadaysfun.blogspot.com.
This skirt is worked in the round from the

top down.
Skirt
Waistband casing: With smaller needle and

using a provisional method, CO 156 (180, 204,
228, 252) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the
rnd. Knit 16 rnds. Purl 1 rnd (for turning ridge).
Knit 16 rnds. Remove waste yarn from
MERE SK IRT
provisional CO and place 156 (180, 204, 228,

252) sts onto spare cir needle. Fold waistband
Jessica Anderson
page 4 2
in half at turning ridge with WS tog and hold

spare needle behind working needle. Next rnd
*K2tog (1 st from working needle and 1 st from
spare needle); rep from * until 4 sts rem on
Q u i n c e & C o. S p a r r o w
each needle. Place 4 sts from spare needle on

holder and k4 from working needle. Knit 14
Sizes 26 (30, 34, 38, 42)" waist circumfer-
rnds. Next rnd [K26 (30, 34, 38, 42), pm] 6
ence and 21 (22, 23, 24, 24)" long; shown

in size 30"
Yarn Quince & Co. Sparrow (100% organic
linen; 168 yd [155 m]/50 g):
#220 fundi, 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) skeins
Gauge 24 sts and 36 rnds = 4" in St st on
smaller needle
times, using rnd m as last m. Inc rnd [K1, M1R,

knit to 1 st before m, M1L, k1, sl m] 6
times12 sts incd. Rep Inc rnd every 9 (11, 13,
12, 13)th rnd 11 (10, 9, 10, 10) more times300
(312, 324, 360, 384) sts. Next rnd Knit, inc 0 (3,
6, 0, 6) sts evenly across300 (315, 330, 360,
390) sts. Work even until piece measures 17 (18,
Tools
19, 20, 20)" from turning ridge. Change to

Spare size 2 (2.75 mm) cir needle, at least
32" long
larger needle. Work Rnds 110 of Lace chart 2
ROGUE WAVE SOCK S

Kate Atherley
page 4 5
times. Next rnd BO all sts as foll: *P2tog, sl st

from right needle to left needle; rep from * to
end. Break yarn and pull through rem st.
HiKoo CoBaSi
Lace
9
26 (30, 34, 38, 42)"
21 (22, 23, 24, 24)"
5
3
1
skirt
15 st repeat
knit
yo
k2tog
55 (57, 60, 66, 71)"
ssk
pattern repeat
78
www.knitscene.com
Sizes 6 (7, 7, 8)" foot circumference and

7 (8, 8, 9)" long from back of heel to
tip of toe; foot length is adjustable; shown
in size 7"
Yarn HiKoo CoBaSi (55% cotton, 21% elastic
nylon, 16% bamboo, 8% silk; 220 yd
[201 m]/50 g):
#11 indigo, 2 skeins
Yarn distributed by Skacel
Gauge 33 sts and 52 rnds = 4" in St st,
unstretched; 44 sts and 52 rnds = 4" in
charted patt, unstretched
Tools
Markers (m)
Cable needle (cn)
Tapestry needle
k on RS; p on WS
Indigo
p on RS; k on WS
Notes
pattern repeat
These socks are worked in the round from the

cuff down.
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k2, p1 from cn
Due to the stretchy nature of the yarn, this sock

is worked with more negative ease than
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p1, k2 from cn
usual. Choose a size that is about 1"
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, p2 from cn
smaller than your foot circumference.
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, k2 from cn
Left Sock
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn
Cuff: Using the old Norwegian method, CO 70
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn
(70, 80, 90) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in

the rnd. Work Rows 120 of Crashing Waves
Crashing Waves Left
Left chart 3 times, then work Rows 111 once
Crashing Waves Right
more. Heel flap: Note: Heel flap is worked

back and forth over last 2 sts and first 31 (31,
19
19
31, 41) sts of rnd; rem 37 (37, 47, 47) sts of rnd
17
17
15
15
13
13
Row 2 (WS) Sl 1 kwise wyb, work in patt to beg-
11
11
of-rnd m, remove m, k2, turn33 (33, 33, 43)
will be worked later for instep.
Row 1 (RS) Work 30 (30, 30, 40) sts in patt, p1,

turn.
heel sts.
Row 3 Sl 1 pwise wyf, work in patt to end.

Row 4 Sl 1 kwise wyb, work in patt to end.
Rep last 2 rows 12 (13, 14, 15) more times.
Turn heel:
Short-row 1 (RS) K22 (22, 23, 29), ssk, turn.

Short-row 2 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p11 (11, 13, 15),
10 st repeat
10 st repeat
st 2
p2tog, turn.
Short-row 3 Sl 1 kwise wyb, k11 (11, 13, 15), ssk,

turn.
Short-row 4 Sl 1 pwise wyf, p11 (11, 13, 15),
than desired finished length. Toe: Set-up rnd
Rows 120 of Crashing Waves Right chart 3
Knit to m, work instep sts in patt, working a
times, then work Rows 111 once more. Heel
k2tog on each pair of knit sts in cable patt,
flap: Note: Heel flap is worked back and forth
Rep last 2 short-rows 8 (8, 7, 11) more
knit to end56 (60, 64, 68) sts rem: 33 (33, 41,
over last 2 sts and first 31 (31, 31, 41) sts of rnd;
times13 (13, 15, 17) heel sts rem. Shape
41) sts for instep, 23 (27, 23, 27) sts for sole.
rem 37 (37, 47, 47) sts of rnd will be worked
gusset: Set-up row (RS) K13 (13, 15, 17) heel
Sizes 6 (7, 8)" only:
sts, pick up and knit 14 (15, 16, 17) sts along
Next rnd [K8 (9, 10), k2tog] 2 (4, 2) times, knit to
later for instep.

Row 1 (RS) Work 30 (30, 30, 40) sts in patt, p1,
side of heel flap, pick up and purl 2 sts
end54 (60, 66) sts rem.
between heel flap and instep, using last
All sizes:
picked-up purl st as first st of cable cross, work

Row 12 of chart over 38 (38, 48, 48) instep sts,
Set-up rnd [K7 (8, 8, 9), k2tog, pm] 6 times48

(54, 54, 60) sts rem. Next rnd Knit. Dec rnd
pick up and purl 2 sts between instep and heel
[Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog] 6 times6 sts
flap, pick up and knit 14 (15, 16, 17) sts along
decd. Rep Dec rnd every other rnd 3 (3, 3, 4)
heel sts.
Row 3 Sl 1 pwise wyf, work in patt to end.
Row 4 Sl 1 kwise wyb, work in patt to end.
side of heel flap, k6 (6, 7, 8) heel sts82 (84,
more times24 (30, 30, 30) sts rem. Rep Dec
Rep last 2 rows 12 (13, 14, 15) more times.
98, 102) sts total. Pm and join in the rnd. Next
rnd every rnd 3 (4, 4, 4) times6 sts rem.
Turn heel:
work 41 (41, 51, 51) sts in patt (keeping first st
Finishing
Short-row 1 (RS) K22 (22, 23, 29), ssk, turn.

Short-row 2 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p11 (11, 13, 15),
in rev St st), pm, [k1tbl] 14 (15, 16, 17) times,
Break yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Thread tail onto
knit to end. Dec rnd Knit to 2 sts before m,
tapestry needle and draw through rem sts. Pull
k2tog, sl m, work in patt to m, ssk, knit to
tight to gather sts and fasten off on WS. Weave
end2 sts decd. Rep Dec rnd every other rnd
in ends. Block.
turn.
Short-row 4 Sl 1 pwise wyf, p11 (11, 13, 15),
41 (41, 51, 51) sts for instep, 23 (27, 23, 27) sts
Right Sock
Rep last 2 short-rows 8 (8, 7, 11) more times13
for sole. Work even until foot measures 6 (7,
Cuff: Using the old Norwegian method, CO 70
(13, 15, 17) heel sts rem. Shape gusset: Set-up
7, 8)" from back of heel, or 1 (1, 1, 1)" less
(70, 80, 90) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work
row (RS) K13 (13, 15, 17) heel sts, pick up and
p2tog, turn.
rnd K7 (7, 8, 9), [k1tbl] 14 (15, 16, 17) times, pm,
turn.
Row 2 (WS) Sl 1 kwise wyb, work in patt to begof-rnd m, remove m, k2, turn33 (33, 33, 43)
p2tog, turn.
Short-row 3 Sl 1 kwise wyb, k11 (11, 13, 15), ssk,
p2tog, turn.
8 (7, 11, 11) more times64 (68, 74, 78) sts rem:
Summer16 Knitscene
79
Row 2 (WS) P1, k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last
knit 14 (15, 16, 17) sts along side of heel flap,

pick up and purl 2 sts between heel flap and
st, p1.
instep, beg with st 2 of chart, work Row 12 of
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.
final cable, sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front,
Back
pick up and purl 1 st between instep and heel
With smaller straight needles, CO 52 (60, 64,
flap, k2 from cn, pick up and purl 1 st between
68, 76, 80) sts. Work 8 rows in K2, P2 Rib (see
instep and heel flap, pick up and knit 14 (15, 16,
Stitches). Change to larger needles. Work
17) sts along side of heel flap, k6 (6, 7, 8) heel
Bubbles chart until piece measures 13" from
sts82 (84, 98, 102) sts total. Pm and join in
CO. Place removable m at each edge of piece
the rnd. Next rnd K7 (7, 8, 9), [k1tbl] 14 (15, 16,
to indicate beg of armholes. Cont in patt until
17) times, pm, work 41 (41, 51, 51) sts in patt
armhole measures 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8)"
(keeping first st in rev St st), pm, [k1tbl] 14 (15,
from m, ending with a WS row. Shape neck:
16, 17) times, knit to end. Dec rnd Knit to 2 sts
Next row (RS) Work 21 (24, 26, 27, 31, 32) sts in
before m, k2tog, sl m, work in patt to m, sl m,
patt, turn and place rem 31 (36, 38, 41, 45, 48)
ssk, knit to end2 sts decd. Rep Dec rnd
sts on holder21 (24, 26, 27, 31, 32) sts rem for
every other rnd 8 (7, 11, 11) more times64 (68,
right shoulder. Right shoulder: Using the
74, 78) sts rem: 41 (41, 51, 51) sts for instep, 23
sloped method (see Stitches), at beg of WS
measures 6 (7, 7, 8)" from back of heel, or
BUOYA NT SWE ATER
1 (1, 1, 1)" less than desired finished length.
A my G un d e r s o n
(27, 23, 27) sts for sole. Work even until foot
sts rem. Work 2 rows evenarmhole measures

about 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9)" from m. BO all sts.
page 47
Toe: Set-up rnd Knit to m, work instep sts in
rows, BO 2 sts 3 times15 (18, 20, 21, 25, 26)
Left shoulder: Return 31 (36, 38, 41, 45, 48)
patt, working a k2tog on each pair of knit sts in
held sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin

yarn. Next row (RS) BO 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16)
cable patt, knit to end56 (60, 64, 68) sts rem:

33 (33, 41, 41) sts for instep, 23 (27, 23, 27) sts
Fibra Natura denims
sts, work in patt to end21 (24, 26, 27, 31, 32)

sts rem. Work 1 WS row even. At beg of RS
for sole.
Sizes 6 (7, 8)" only:
Sizes 33 (39, 41, 44, 49, 52)" bust
rows, BO 2 sts 3 times15 (18, 20, 21, 25, 26)
Next rnd [Ssk, k8 (9, 10)] 2 (4, 2) times, knit to
sts rem. Work 1 WS row even. BO all sts.
(30, 30, 30) sts rem. Rep Dec rnd every rnd 3 (4,
circumference; shown in size 39", modeled

with 7" of positive ease.
Yarn Fibra Natura denims (70% cotton, 30%
wool; 109 yd [100 m]/100 g):
#106 indigo dye, 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9) skeins
Yarndistributed by Universal Yarn
Gauge 12 sts and 18 rows = 4" in Bubbles
patt on larger needles
4, 4) times6 sts rem.
Tools
All sizes:
Set-up rnd [Ssk, k7 (8, 8, 9), pm] 6 times48
(54, 54, 60) sts rem. Next rnd Knit. Dec rnd
[Ssk, knit to m] 6 times6 sts decd. Rep Dec
rnd every other rnd 3 (3, 3, 4) more times24
Finishing
Break yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Thread tail onto
tapestry needle and draw through rem sts. Pull
tight to gather sts and fasten off on WS. Weave
in ends. Block.
Size 10 (6.5 mm): straight needles

Size 8 (5 mm): straight and 24" circular (cir)
needle
Markers (m)
Removable m
Stitch holders
Tapestry needle
Front
Work as for back until armhole measures 4
(5, 5, 6, 6, 6)" from m, ending with a WS
row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work 21 (24,
26, 27, 31, 32) sts in patt and place rem 31 (36,
7 (8, 8, 8, 8, 9)"
5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8)"
3"
front
&
back
Kate Atherley is the author of the Interweave book Custom Socks: Knit to Fit Your
Feet (2015). Shes also Knitty magazines
managing technical editor, and loves knitting
socks, especially in the summer, when its
too warm to carry around a larger project.
She can be found at www.kateatherley.com.

Notes
rate pieces and seamed.
Stitches
Sloped Bind-Off: On last row before BO, sl
last st pwise. BO row [Sl 1 pwise] 2 times, pass
2nd st over first to BO 1 st, BO rem sts as usual.
K2, P2 Rib: (multiple of 4 sts)
Row 1 (RS) K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts,
80
p2, k1.
www.knitscene.com
17 (20, 21, 22, 25, 26)"
This pullover is worked back and forth in sepa-
15 (16, 17, 18, 18, 19)"
sleeve
9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 10)"
20 (21, 21, 22, 22, 22)"
end54 (60, 66) sts rem.
14 (14, 14, 14, 14, 14)"
Indigo
chart over 35 (35, 45, 45) instep sts, to work
k on RS; p on WS
ssk
105, 115, 121) sts. Work 3 rows even. Next row
k on WS
k2tog
(RS) Work to last m, sl m, work 12 (14, 15, 17,
yo
pattern repeat
work to end85 (91, 99, 107, 117, 123) sts.

Work 11 rows even. Next row (RS) Work to m,
Bubbles
remove m and ravel next st, work to m, sl m,

[work to m, remove and ravel next st] 2 times,
work to end82 (88, 96, 104, 114, 120) sts rem.

1
Work 5 rows even. Next row (RS) [Work to m,
4 st repeat
remove m and ravel next st] 4 times, work to

end78 (84, 92, 100, 110, 116) sts rem. Work 3
38, 41, 45, 48) sts on holder21 (24, 26, 27, 31,
rows even. Next row (RS) Work 56 (58, 59, 62,
32) sts rem for left shoulder. Left shoulder:
65, 66) sts, pm, M1, work to end79 (85, 93,
Using the sloped method, at beg of WS rows,
BO 2 sts 3 times15 (18, 20, 21, 25, 26) sts
(RS) Work 34 (36, 37, 40, 43, 44) sts, pm, M1,
rem. Work even until armhole measures same
work to end80 (86, 94, 102, 112, 118) sts.
length as back from m, ending with a WS row.
Work 9 rows even. Next row (RS) [Work to m,
BO all sts. Right shoulder: Return 31 (36, 38,
remove m and ravel next st] 2 times, work to
facing, rejoin yarn. Next row (RS) BO 10 (12,
BAR ACHOIS TUNIC
12, 14, 14, 16) sts, work in patt to end21 (24,
We n d y B e r n a r d
41, 45, 48) held sts to needle and, with RS
even until piece measures 16 (16, 17, 17,

17, 18)" from CO, ending with a WS row.
page 4 8
26, 27, 31, 32) sts rem. Work 1 WS row even. At
end78 (84, 92, 100, 110, 116) sts rem. Work
Shape armholes: Dec row (RS) K6, ssk, work

to last 8 sts, k2tog, k62 sts decd. Rep Dec
beg of RS rows, BO 2 sts 3 times15 (18, 20,
row every RS row 1 (1, 3, 4, 5, 6) more
21, 25, 26) sts rem. Work even until armhole

measures same length as back from m, ending
Shibui Knits Linen
time(s)74 (80, 84, 90, 98, 102) sts rem. Work 1

WS row. Next row (RS) Work 25 (26, 27, 29, 32,
with a WS row. BO all sts.
Sizes 34 (37, 41, 44, 49, 51)" bust
33) sts, pm, M1, work 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18) sts,
pm, M1, work to end76 (82, 86, 92, 100, 104)
last st, M1, k12 sts incd. Rep Inc row every

Yarn Shibui Knits Linen (100% linen; 246 yd
[225 m]/50 g):
#2016 suit, 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins
4th (4th, 2nd, 4th, 2nd, 2nd) row 6 (9, 1, 10, 1, 3)
Tools
rem. Work 5 rows even. Next row (RS) [Work to
more time(s), then every 6 (0, 4, 0, 4, 4)th row 2
Size 6 (4 mm) needles

Markers (m)
Tapestry needle
Two 7 mm wooden beads with sterling
silver grommets
Eight 12 mm wooden beadsclockwise
pansies (both beads from Artbeads.com)
m, remove m and ravel next st] 2 times, work
With smaller straight needles, CO 28 (28, 28,

32, 32, 32) sts. Work 16 rows in K2, P2 Rib.
Change to larger needles. Work Bubbles chart
for 4 rows. Inc row (RS) K1, M1, work in patt to
(0, 9, 0, 10, 9) times, working new sts into

patt46 (48, 50, 54, 56, 58) sts. Work even until
piece measures 14 (14, 14, 14, 14, 14)" from
CO, ending with a WS row. BO all sts.
Finishing
sts. Work 5 rows even. Next row (RS) K19 (20,

21, 23, 25, 26), pm, M1, work to end77 (83, 87,
(RS) Work to 3rd m, remove m and ravel next
st, work to end76 (82, 86, 92, 100, 104) sts
to end74 (80, 84, 90, 98, 102) sts rem. Work

even until armhole measures 6 (6, 7, 7, 8,
8)", ending with a RS row. Knit 10 rows. With
WS facing, BO all sts kwise.
11 (11, 11, 12, 11, 11)"
Block pieces to measurements. Sew shoulder

edging: With cir needle and RS facing, beg at

right shoulder seam, pick up and knit 8 sts
Notes
along right back neck, 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16) sts
This tank is worked back and forth in separate
along back neck BO, 8 sts along left back neck,
pieces and seamed.
11 sts along left front neck, 10 (12, 12, 14, 14,

16) sts along front neck BO, and 11 sts along
Front
right front neck58 (62, 62, 66, 66, 70) sts. Do
CO 78 (84, 92, 100, 110, 116) sts. Knit 10 rows,
not turn. BO all sts. Weave in ends.
ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) Knit.
Next row (WS) K6, purl to last 6 sts, k6. Rep
Amy Gunderson lives in North Carolina with
last 2 rows until piece measures 2" from CO,
her husband and their two ornery dogs. She

designs for a variety of knit and crochet
magazines and is the creative director for
Universal Yarn.
ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) K10 (12,

13, 15, 18, 19), place marker (pm), M1, k8 (9, 10,
7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9)"
between m. Sew sleeve and side seams. Neck
16 (16, 17, 17, 17, 18)"
seams. Sew BO edge of sleeves to armholes
2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 5)"
front
&
back
18 (19, 21, 23, 25, 26)"
Sleeves
17 (18, 20, 22, 24, 25)"
11, 12, 13), pm, M1, [k6, pm, M1] 2 times, k8 (9,
10, 11, 12, 13), pm, M1, knit to end83 (89, 97,
Summer16 Knitscene
81
Indigo
19, 21) sts, pm, M1, work to last 10 sts, pm, M1,
Back
#CW-790 columbine blossom, 3 (4, 5, 6,

7, 8, 9) skeins
Gauge 18 sts and 28 rnds = 4" in St st
pair of m. Shape afterthought armholes:

Next rnd K1, yo, knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1,
Finishing
Tools
sl m, k1, yo, k6 (5, 7, 6, 8, 7, 7), then with waste
Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Sew
Size 6 (4 mm): 16", 24", 40", and 60"

circular (cir) needles and set of doublepointed needles (dpn)
Markers (m)
Tapestry needle
Waste yarn
yarn, k35 (38, 40, 43, 45, 48, 50) sts for armhole,
shoulder seam for about 2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 5)"

from each armhole edge, or desired shoulder
width. Sew side seams, leaving 2" open at
lower edge and 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9)" open at
upper edge for armhole. Cord tie: Cut 2
sts: 45 (47, 51, 53, 57, 59, 61) sts between each
break waste yarn and slide armhole sts back to

left needle, then with working yarn, knit to 1 st
before m, yo, k1, sl m, [k1, yo, knit to 1 st before
m, yo, k1, sl m] 3 times, k1, yo, k2, then with
waste yarn, k35 (38, 40, 43, 45, 48, 50) sts for
strands of yarn, each 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5)
armhole, break waste yarn and slide armhole
yards long, and make a twisted cord. Slide
sts back to left needle, then with working
beads onto one end and tie in an overhand
yarn, knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1282 (294,
knot to secure. Add beads to other end and tie
318, 330, 354, 366, 378) sts: 47 (49, 53, 55, 59,
a knot to secure. Sew a loop of yarn to each
Notes
61, 63) sts between each pair of m. Next 2 rnds
side seam at waist and thread tie through
This vest is worked in the round from the center
[*K1, p1; rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, sl m,
loops.
Wendy Bernard is a knitwear designer and

author of the Custom Knits series; Up,
Down, All-Around Stitch Dictionary (STC
Craft, 2014); and The Knitting All-Around
Stitch Dictionary (STC Craft, 2016).
out. The armholes are worked using the
knit to m, sl m] 3 times. Inc rnd [K1, yo, knit to
afterthought method.
1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m] 6 times12 sts
Cha nge to longer c i rc u la r need les when
incd. Rep last 3 rnds 11 (15, 18, 22, 25, 29, 33)
more times426 (486, 546, 606, 666, 726, 786)
necessary.
Use a contrasting color marker for the beginning
sts: 71 (81, 91, 101, 111, 121, 131) sts between

each pair of m. Next 2 rnds [K1, purl to 1 st
of the round.
before m, k1, sl m] 6 times. BO all sts kwise.
Body
Finishing
With dpn, CO 6 sts. Place marker (pm; see

Notes) and join in the rnd. Next rnd [K1f&b] 6
Armhole edging: With 16" cir needle and
times12 sts. Next rnd Knit. Next rnd [K1f&b,
RS facing, sl 35 (38, 40, 43, 45, 48, 50) armhole
k1] 6 times18 sts. Next rnd Knit. Next rnd
sts below waste yarn onto needle. Cont with
[(K1, yo) 2 times, k1] 6 times30 sts. Next rnd
same end of needle, sl 35 (38, 40, 43, 45, 48,
[(K1, p1) 2 times, k1, pm, k5, pm] 3 times, using
50) sts above waste yarn onto needle70 (76,
rnd m for last m. Next rnd [Work in rib patt to
80, 86, 90, 96, 100) sts. Remove waste yarn.
m, sl m, knit to m, sl m] 3 times. Inc rnd [K1, yo,
Rejoin working yarn, pm and join in the rnd.
knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m] 6 times12
Purl 2rnds. BO all sts kwise. Weave in ends,
sts incd. Next 2 rnds [*K1, p1; rep from * to 1 st
closing any gaps near armholes. Block.
before m, k1, sl m, knit to m, sl m] 3 times. Rep

last 3 rnds 19 (20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27) more
Shaina Bilow is a knitting teacher from
times, changing to cir needle when necessary
northern New Jersey and can be found at

www.ShainaBilow.com.
(see Notes)270 (282, 306, 318, 342, 354, 366)
page 4 9
B r o w n S h e e p C o m p a ny C o t t o n Fl e e c e
Sizes 19 (20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27)"

back width; shown in size 20" on model
with 32" bust
Yarn Brown Sheep Company Cotton Fleece
(80% cotton, 20% merino wool; 215 yd
[197 m]/100 g):
82
www.knitscene.com
7 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11)"
16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 29)"
S h a in a B il o w
13 (13, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17)"
6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10)"
SOLITON VEST
7 (8, 10, 12, 13, 15, 17)"
Indigo
Work as for front.
body
19 (20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27)"
31 (35, 40, 44, 49, 53, 58)"
Using the long-tail method, CO 49 (53, 57, 61,
87 (91, 95, 107, 111) sts. Next row (RS) Knit to
65) sts. Do not join. Next row (RS) Knit. Next
1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, k2, [knit
row (WS) P1, p1f&b, place marker (pm), p1f&b,
wrap tog with wrapped st, k1] 2 (2, 2, 3, 3)
purl to last 3 sts, p1f&b, pm, p1f&b, p153 (57,
times, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, p1,
61, 65, 69) sts: 3 front sts outside m at each
k289 (93, 97, 109, 113) sts: 12 (12, 12, 14, 14)
side and 47 (51, 55, 59, 63) back sts in center.
front sts outside m at each side and 65 (69, 73,
Shape left shoulder using short-rows as foll:
81, 85) back sts in center. Next row (WS) Purl
Short-row 1 (RS) K2, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, k4 (5, 6,
to 2 sts before m, p2tog, sl m, p1, p1f&b, purl
7, 8), wrap next st, turn2 sts incd.

Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to 2 sts before m, p1f&b,
st, purl to 2 sts before m, p1f&b, p1, remove m,
p1, sl m, p1, p1f&b, p22 sts incd.

Short-row 3 K2, p1, k1, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, knit
place 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) rem left front sts on
to wrapped st, knit wrap tog with wrapped
13, 13) right front sts and 67 (71, 75, 83, 87)
st, k1, wrap next st, turn2 sts incd.
back sts. Next row (RS) K2, p1, knit to 3 sts
Yo ko Jo hn s t o n
holder78 (82, 86, 96, 100) sts rem: 11 (11, 11,
Short-row 4 Purl to 2 sts before m, p1f&b, p1, sl
before m, p1, k2, remove m, place 11 (11, 11,
m, p1, p1f&b, wrap next st, turn2 sts incd.
13, 13) rem right front sts on holder67 (71,
Short-row 5 K2, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, knit to
SEICHE TA NK
to wrapped st, purl wrap tog with wrapped
75, 83, 87) back sts rem; back measures "
wrapped st, knit wrap tog with wrapped st,
from CO in center, and 1 (1, 1, 1, 1)"
k1, wrap next st, turn2 sts incd.
from needle to CO edge at deepest point,
Rep last 2 short-rows 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) more time(s)
measured straight up along a single column
67 (71, 75, 83, 87) sts. Rep Short-row 4 once
of sts. Mark each end of last row completed
more69 (73, 77, 85, 89) sts; with RS facing,

11 (11, 11, 13, 13) left front sts before first m, 55
with removable m to indicate top of armhole.

Note: At this point there will be two k2
(59, 63, 69, 73) back sts between m, and 3 right
columns flanked by yos extending from CO to
front sts after second m. Next row (RS) K2, yo,
each end of back sts on needle; these columns
Sizes 31 (34, 37, 40, 44)" bust
k1, sl m, k1, yo, knit to wrapped st, knit wrap
are shoulder lines of garment that reach from

Yarn Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy
(41% cotton, 34% hemp, 25% rayon;
153 yd [140 m]/50 g):
#61 kingfisher blue, 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) balls
Yarndistributed by Knitting Fever
tog with wrapped st, knit to 1 st before m, yo,
neck edge to armhole edge.
page 5 0
E l s e b e t h L a v o l d He m p a t h y
Tools
Markers (m)
Removable m
Stitch holders
Tapestry needle
Size E/4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook
k1, sl m, k1, yo, k273 (77, 81, 89, 93) sts: 12

(12, 12, 14, 14) left front sts, 57 (61, 65, 71, 75)
Back
back sts, 4 right front sts. Shape right shoulder
Next row (WS) Purl. Next row (RS) K2, p1, knit
to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Next row (WS) Purl. Rep
Short-row 1 (WS) P2, p1f&b, p1, sl m, p1, p1f&b,
last 2 rows 17 (16, 15, 16, 17) more timesarm-
p4 (5, 6, 7, 8), wrap next st, turn2 sts incd.
Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sl

m, k1, yo, wrap next st, turn2 sts incd.
Short-row 3 P1f&b, p1, sl m, p1, p1f&b, purl to

wrapped st, purl wrap tog with wrapped st,
p1, wrap next st, turn2 sts incd.
hole measures 5 (4, 4, 4, 5)" from

removable m. Inc row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, knit to
last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k22 sts incd. Rep Inc
row every RS row 7 (9, 11, 11, 13) more
times83 (91, 99, 107, 115) sts. Purl 1 WS
rowarmhole measures 7 (7, 7, 8, 8)".
Rep last 2 short-rows 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) more times
Break yarn. Place sts on holder.
8 (9, 10, 10, 11)"

Notes
2 (2, 2, 2, 2)"
(, , 1, 1)"
5 (5, 5, 5, 5)"
7 (7, 7, 8, 8)"
This tank is worked from the top down in one

piece with short-row shoulder shaping. The
upper fronts and back are worked flat until
they are joined at the base of the armholes,
then the lower body is worked in the round.
31 (34, 37, 40, 44)"
body
14 (14, 15, 15, 14)"
The lace chart is worked both back and forth

in rows and in the round. When working in
the round, work every chart row as a rightside row.
43 (46, 51, 53, 56)"
Summer16 Knitscene
83
Indigo
Yoke
Lace
Indigo
k on RS; p on WS
81
p on RS; k on WS
79
77
k1tbl on RS;
p1tbl on WS
75
73
k2tog
71
ssk
69
yo
67
sl 2 as if to k2tog,
k1, p2sso
65
k3tog
61
63
59
57
55
53
51
49
47
45
43
41
39
37
35
33
31
29
27
25
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
49 sts
84
www.knitscene.com
(RS) K2, p1, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, p1, M1R, p1,
before m, M1R, k1, sl m; rep from * once
Return 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) held left front sts to
k217 sts.
more 4 s t s i ncd, 2 s t s i n each s ide
needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Next
Size 37" only:
row (WS) P2tog, purl to end, working wraps
Next row (WS) Purl. Next row (RS) K2, p1,
section.
Rnd 6 Knit to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, *knit
tog with wrapped sts11 (11, 11, 13, 13) sts
M1L, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k22 sts
to m, sl m, k1tbl, knit to 1 st before m, k1tbl,
rem. Next row (RS) K2, p1, knit to last 3 sts, p1,
incd. Rep last 2 rows once more19 sts. Next
k2. Next row Purl. Rep last 2 rows 15 (13, 12,
row (WS) P3, k1, purl to end. Next row (RS) K2,
Rep last 6 rnds 16 (16, 17, 17, 16) more times,
sl m; rep from * once more.
10, 9) more times. Inc row (RS) K2, p1, M1L,
p1, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, p1, M1R, p1, k2
removing m on each side of center 49 front sts
knit to last 3 sts, p1, k21 st incd at neck
21 sts.
and working these sts in St st when chart is
edge. Rep Inc row every RS row 1 (3, 3, 6, 7)
complete240 (256, 280, 296, 312) sts; 83 (91,
more time(s)13 (15, 15, 20, 21) sts.
99, 107, 115) sts each for front and back and 37
Size 31" only:
(37, 41, 41, 41) sts in each marked side section;
Next row (WS) Purl to last 4 sts, k1, p3. Next

row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, p1, knit to last 3 sts, p1,
incd. Next row P3, k1, purl to end. Next row
body measures 14 (14, 15, 15, 14)" from
K2, p1, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, p1, M1R, p1,
underarm. Border: Next rnd *P3, [k1tbl, p3] 20
k214 sts.
k224 (25) sts.
(22, 24, 26, 28) times, remove m, k1tbl, [p3,
Size 34" only:
All sizes:
k1tbl] 9 (9, 10, 10, 10) times,* remove m; rep
Next row (WS) Purl to last 4 sts, k1, p3. Next

row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, p1, knit to last 3 sts,
from * to * once more, leaving end-of-rnd m in
Size 37" only:
Next row (WS) P3, p1tbl, k1, purl to end. Next

row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, knit to last 5 sts, p1,
k1tbl, M1R, p1, k216 (19, 23, 26, 27) sts. Next
row P3, k1, p1tbl, k1, purl to endarmhole
*k3, k1tbl; rep from * to endbody measures
measures 5 (5, 5, 5, 5)". Leave sts on
14 (14, 15, 15, 14)". Loosely BO all sts.
needle. Join fronts: Next row (RS) K2, p1,
incd; 1 st each at neck and armhole edges.
M1L, knit to last 6 sts, pm, p1, k1tbl, p1, k3,
Rep last 2 rows once more19 sts. Next row
then using the knitted method, CO 37 sts,
Neck edging: With RS facing and crochet
(WS) Purl to last 4 sts, k1, p3. Next row (RS)
place left front sts on needle and k3, p1, k1tbl,
hook, join yarn at center back and work 1 rnd
K2, p1, M1L, p1, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1,
p1, pm, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k271 (77,
of single crochet (sc) as foll: work 1 sc in every
k221 sts.
85, 91, 93) sts total; 49 center sts between m.
st along back neck, 3 sc for every 4 rows down
Next row (WS) Purl to m, sl m, k1, p1tbl, k1,
left front neck, 1 sc for every st for CO st along
purl to 3 sts before m, k1, p1tbl, k1, sl m, purl
center front, 3 sc for every 4 rows up right front
to end. Next row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, knit to m,
neck and 1 sc in every st to center back.
incd; 1 st each at neck and armhole edges.
sl m, work Lace chart over 49 sts, sl m, knit to
Fasten off. Armhole edgings: With RS facing
Next row Purl to last 4 sts, k1, p3. Next row K2,
last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k22 sts incd. Next row
and crochet hook, join yarn at center of
p1, M1L, p1, knit to last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k224
Purl to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, purl to
underarm, work 1 rnd of sc around armhole
(25) sts.
end. Rep last 2 rows 5 (6, 6, 7, 10) more
edge as foll: 1 sc in every st for each CO st, 3 sc
All sizes:
times83 (91, 99, 107, 115) sts; armhole
for every 4 rows up to shoulder line and down
Next row (WS) Purl to last 5 sts, k1, p1tbl, p3.

Next row (RS) K2, p1, M1L, k1tbl, p1, knit to
measures about 7 (7, 7, 8, 8)".
to underarm and 1 sc for each CO st. Fasten
last 3 sts, M1R, p1, k216 (19, 23, 26, 27) sts.
Body
Next row Purl to last 6 sts, k1, p1tbl, k1, p3
Join front and back: Next row (RS) K2, p1,
armhole measures 5 (5, 5, 5, 5)". Break
knit to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, knit to
Yoko Johnston is a Japanese knitter now
yarn. Place sts on holder.
last 3 sts, p1, k2, pm, CO 3 (3, 5, 5, 7) sts, pm,
living in Australia with her husband and two

children. Besides knitting, she teaches
Japanese and plays table tennis.
M1R, p1, k217 sts.
Right Front Strap
k2, p1, knit to last 3 sts, p1, k2, pm, CO 3 (3, 5,
Return 11 (11, 11, 13, 13) held right front sts to
5, 7) sts172 (188, 208, 224, 244) sts: 83 (91,
needle and, with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Next
99, 107, 115) sts each for front and back and 3
row (RS) K2, p1, knit to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Next
row (WS) Purl. Rep last 2 rows 15 (13, 12, 10, 9)
more times. Inc row (RS) K2, p1, knit to last 3
(3, 5, 5, 7) sts in each marked side section. Pm

work chart to m, sl m, knit to end. Rep last rnd
sts, M1R, p1, k21 st incd at neck edge. Rep
2 more times. Cont chart patt as established,
Inc row every RS row 1 (3, 3, 6, 7) more time(s)
work slipstitch columns and body shaping
13 (15, 15, 20, 21) sts.
inside marked side sections as foll:
Size 31" only:
Rnds 14 Knit to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m,

*knit to m, sl m, sl 1 pwise wyb, knit to 1 st
(RS) K2, p1, knit to last 4 sts, p1, M1R, p1,
before m, sl 1 pwise wyb, sl m; rep from *
Next row (WS) P3, k1, purl to end. Next row
and join in the rnd. Next rnd Knit to m, sl m,
Next row (WS) P3, k1, purl to end. Next row
Size 34" only:
Finishing
off. Weave in ends. Block to measurements.
return 83 (91, 99, 107, 115) back sts to needle,
k214 sts.
place. Next rnd *K3, k1tbl; rep from * to end.

Next rnd *P3, k1tbl; rep from * to end. Next rnd
once more.
Rnd 5 (Inc rnd) Knit to m, sl m, work chart to m,
sl m, *knit to m, sl m, k1, M1L, knit to 1 st
Summer16 Knitscene
85
Indigo
Left Front Strap
The shoulder shaping is worked in stockinette
short-rows below the lace yoke to avoid
(WS) K3, purl to end, working wraps tog with
interrupting the lace pattern.
wrapped stsarmhole measures 2 (3, 3, 4,
Indigo
During shaping, if there are not enough stitches
A NIL CARDIGA N
4, 5)". Next row (RS) K1, work Row 1 of Lace
to work each decrease with its companion
chart over 49 (55, 61, 67, 73, 79) sts, k3.
yarnover, or each double decrease with both
Keeping front edge sts in garter st and
its yarnovers, work the remaining stitch(es)
selvedge st in St st, work Rows 224 of chart
in stockinette instead.
oncearmhole measures 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8)".
Body
Note: From here, rep Rows 1724 of chart only.

Next row (RS) BO 26 (32, 38, 38, 44, 50)
With smaller cir needle, CO 195 (219, 243, 267,
shoulder sts, work in patt to end (see
291, 315) sts. Do not join. Knit 6 rows, ending
Notes)27 (27, 27, 33, 33, 33) sts rem. Collar
with a RS row. Change to larger cir needle.
extension: Work 1 WS row even. Next row
Next row (WS) K3, purl to last 3 sts, k3. Next

row (RS) Knit. Rep last 2 rows until piece
(RS) CO 1 st for back neck selvedge st, knit
measures 15" from CO, ending with a WS row.
34, 34) sts. Keeping front edge sts in garter st
Divide for fronts and back: Next row (RS)
and selvedge st in St st, work even until collar
K52 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82) and place these sts on
extension measures 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5)" ending
holder for right front, k91 (103, 115, 127, 139, 151)
with a WS row. BO all sts.
new CO st, work in patt to end28 (28, 28, 34,
and place these sts on holder for back, knit to
A my C hr i s t o f f e r s
end52 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82) sts rem for left front.
page 51
Back
Return 91 (103, 115, 127, 139, 151) held back sts
Berroco Indigo
Left Front
to larger cir needle and, with WS facing, rejoin
Next row (WS) K3 front edge sts, purl to end.

Next row (RS) Using the backward-loop
selvedge st, purl to end1 st incd. Next row
yarn. Next row (WS) CO 1 st for armhole
method, CO 1 st for armhole selvedge st, knit
(RS) CO 1 st for armhole selvedge st, knit to
Sizes 36 (41, 46, 51, 55, 60)" bust
to end53 (59, 65, 71, 77, 83) sts. Keeping
end93 (105, 117, 129, 141, 153) sts. Work even
circumference, with fronts overlapped

about 2"; shown in size 41", modeled with
8" of positive ease
Yarn Berroco Indigo (95% cotton, 5% other;
219 yd [200 m]/100 g):
#6463 denim 5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 9) skeins
Gauge 20 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st on
larger needle
front edge sts in garter st, and working
in St st until armhole measures 2 (2, 3,
selvedge st in St st, work even until armhole
measures 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4)", ending

with a RS row. Shape shoulder (see Notes)
shoulders using short-rows as foll:

Short-row 1 (WS) Purl to last 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts,

Short-row 1 (WS) K3, purl to last 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10)
wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to last 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts,
sts, wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to end.
Short-row 3 K3, purl to 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts before
wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 3 Purl to 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts before
Tools
and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)
Size 6 (4 mm): 32" cir needle and set of
dpn
Stitch holders
Marker (m)
Tapestry needle

Short-row 4 Knit to 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts before
Short-row 4 Knit to end.
8 (8, 8, 10, 10, 10)"

5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 10)"
16 (16, 16, 16, 17, 17)"
4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5)"
1"
sleeve
6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8)"
Notes
The body of this cardigan is worked back and
back
forth in one piece to the underarm, then

divided for working the fronts and back
left
front
15"
separately. Stitches for the sleeves are

picked up around the armhole and the
sleeves are worked in the round from the top
down.
10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16)"

18 (20, 23, 25, 27, 30)"
86
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8 (8, 10, 10, 10, 11)"
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Six-Point
Tee
PHOTO CREDITS: JOE HANCOCK
Lark
Cardigan
Lace
Indigo
23
21
k on RS; p on WS
19
yo
17
8 row
repeat
15
k2tog on RS; p2tog on WS
13
ssk on RS; ssp on WS
11
pattern repeat
7
5
3
1
6 st repeat
Collar extension: Work 1 RS row even. Next
(WS) Purl to end, working wraps tog with
row (WS) CO 1 st for back neck selvedge st,
wrapped sts. Next row (RS) Working rem wraps
purl new CO st, work in patt to end28 (28,
tog with wrapped sts, k1, work Row 1 of Lace
28, 34, 34, 34) sts. Keeping front edge sts in
chart over 91 (103, 115, 127, 139, 151) sts, k1.
garter st and selvedge st in St st, work even
Keeping selvedge sts in St st, work Rows 224
until collar extension measures 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5)"
of chart oncearmhole measures 6 (6, 7, 7,
ending with a WS row. BO all sts.
TINCTORI A TEE
S a c hi ko B ur g in
page 5 2
Mirasol Pima Kuri
Sizes 44 (49, 55, 61, 66)" bust
Right Front
Sew shoulder seams. With larger dpn and RS
Return 52 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82) held sts to larger
facing, beg at center of underarm, pick up and
cir needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn.
knit 60 (64, 70, 74, 80, 84) sts evenly around
Next row (WS) CO 1 st for armhole selvedge st,
armhole edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Knit 10
purl to last 3 sts, k353 (59, 65, 71, 77, 83) sts.
(10, 10, 10, 8, 8) rnds. Dec rnd K1, k2tog, knit to
Keeping front edge sts in garter st, and
last 2 sts, ssk2 sts decd. Rep Dec rnd every

Yarn Mirasol Pima Kuri (100% cotton;
208 yd [190 m]/100 g):
#02 Greenwood Lake, 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins
Yarndistributed by Knitting Fever
Gauge 16 sts and 22 rows = 4" in St st on
larger needles
working selvedge st in St st, work even until
10 (10, 10, 10, 8, 8)th rnd 9 (9, 9, 9, 12, 12) more
Tools
armhole measures 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4)",
times40 (44, 50, 54, 54, 58) sts rem. Work
ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder using
short-rows as foll:
16, 16)" from underarm. Change to smaller
Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to last 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts,
dpn. [Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd] 2 times, then purl 1

Markers (m)
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle
8, 8)". BO all sts.
Sleeves
wrap next st, turn.
Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to last 3 sts, k3.

Short-row 3 Knit to 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts before
rndsleeve measures 16 (16, 16, 16, 17,

17)" from underarm. BO all sts.
Finishing
Short-row 4 Purl to last 3 sts, k3.
Sew collar extensions tog at center back neck.
Sew selvedge of collar along back neck edge,
Notes
(RS) Knit to end, working wraps tog with
easing to fit. Weave in ends. Block to
This top is worked back and forth in two sepa-
wrapped sts. Work 1 WS row. Next row (RS) K3,
measurements.
work Row 1 of Lace chart over 49 (55, 61, 67, 73,

79) sts, k1. Keeping front edge sts in garter st
and selvedge st in St st, work Rows 224 of
chart oncearmhole measures 6 (6, 7, 7,
rate pieces from the bottom up and seamed.

During shoulder shaping, when there are not
Amy Christoffers is savoryknitting on

Ravelry and blogs at www.savoryknitting
.com.
enough stitches to complete both a yarnover

and its paired decrease, work these stitches
in stockinette stitch instead.
8, 8)". Note: Rep only Rows 1724 of chart

from here. Work 1 RS row. Next row (WS) BO
Back
26 (32, 38, 38, 44, 50) shoulder sts, work in
With larger needles, CO 92 (102, 114, 126, 136)
patt to end27 (27, 27, 33, 33, 33) sts rem.
sts. Next row (WS) P2, k1, p1, knit to last 4 sts,
88
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aV>}
p1, k1, p2. Next row (RS) K2, p1, knit to last 3
7 (8, 8, 9, 10)"
sts, p1, k2. Next row (WS) P2, k1, p1, place
7 (8, 9, 10, 11)"
3"
marker (pm), k24, pm, k36 (46, 58, 70, 80), pm,
Indigo
k24, pm, p1, k1, p2. Next row (RS) K2, p1, k1,
1"
sl m, work Chart A over 24 sts, sl m, knit to m,

7 (7, 8, 8, 9)"
sl m, work Chart A over 24 sts, sl m, k1, p1, k2.

Cont in patt as established until Rows 18 of
chart have been worked 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) times,
24 (24, 24, 25, 25)"
body
then substitute Chart B for Chart A and work
7 (7, 6, 7, 7)"
Rows 128 of chart 3 times, then change back

to Chart A and work until piece measures 28
(28, 28, 29, 29)" from CO, ending with a WS
13"
row. Shape shoulders: BO 10 (11, 13, 14, 16)

4"
sts at beg of next 4 rows, then BO 10 (12, 13,

15, 15) sts at beg of next 2 rows32 (34, 36,
22 (24, 27, 30, 33)"
40, 42) sts rem. BO all sts.
Front
Work as for back until Rows 18 of Chart A
Chart A
k on RS; p on WS
have been worked 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) times, then

substitute Chart B for Chart A and work
Rows 128 of chart 3 times, then change back
to Chart A and work until piece measures 21
k on WS
p1tbl on WS
yo
(21, 21, 22, 22)" from CO, ending with a WS

row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work 34 (38,
24 sts
43, 47, 51) sts in patt and place these sts on
k2tog
holder for left shoulder, BO 24 (26, 28, 32, 34)
ssk
sts, work to end34 (38, 43, 47, 51) sts rem for
right shoulder. Right shoulder: Work 1 WS
Chart B
k3tog
row. Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, work to end1 st

decd. Rep Dec row every RS row 3 more
27
times30 (34, 39, 43, 47) sts rem. Work even
25
until piece measures 24 (24, 24, 25, 25)"

from CO, ending with a RS row. Shape
23
shoulder: At beg of WS rows, BO 10 (11, 13,
21
14, 16) sts 2 times, then BO 10 (12, 13, 15, 15)
19
sts onceno sts rem. Left shoulder: Return

17
34 (38, 43, 47, 51) sts to needle and, with WS

facing, rejoin yarn. Work 1 WS row. Dec row
15
(RS) Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k11 st decd.
13
Rep Dec row every RS row 3 more times30
11
(34, 39, 43, 47) sts rem. Work even until piece
measures 24 (24, 24, 25, 25)" from CO,
ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder: At
beg of RS rows, BO 10 (11, 13, 14, 16) sts 2
times, then BO 10 (12, 13, 15, 15) sts once
no sts rem.
Finishing
24 sts
Sew shoulder seams. Neckband: With RS

facing and cir needle, beg at left shoulder
seam, pick up and knit 18 sts evenly along left
all sts in patt. Beg 7 (7, 8, 8, 9)" down from
front neck edge, 24 (26, 28, 32, 34) sts along
shoulder seam, sew sides of back and front tog
center front BO sts, 18 sts along right front
for 7 (7, 6, 7, 7)", ending 9" above CO
neck edge, and 32 (34, 36, 40, 42) sts along
edge of front and 13" above CO edge of back.
back neck92 (96, 100, 108, 112) sts. Pm and
Weave in ends and block to measurements.
join in the rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib for 1". BO
90
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Sachiko Burgin lives in Toronto, Canada,

and works part-time at Romni Wools.
Despite having a degree in jewelry and
metalsmithing, these days she prefers to
work with yarn.
TAKE
YOUR
favorite issues
WITH YOU
Back
Indigo
With straight needles, CO 122 (137, 152, 162,
St st until piece measures 20 (20, 20, 20, 20,
177, 192) sts. Work Rows 16 of Lace Edging
20)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Next
chart101 (113, 125, 133, 145, 157) sts rem.
row (RS) K49 (55, 61, 65, 71, 77), pm, yo, pm,
Next row (RS) Knit. Next row Purl. Dec row
knit to end99 (111, 123, 131, 143, 155) sts.
(RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k3tog, k298
Work 5 rows even in St st. Next row (RS) Knit
(110, 122, 130, 142, 154) sts rem. Work even in
to 2 sts before m, pm, yo, pm, k2, sl m, k1, sl m,
St st until piece measures 17 (17, 17, 17, 17,
k2, pm, yo, pm, knit to end101 (113, 125, 133,
17)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Next
145, 157) sts. Work 5 rows even. Next row (RS)
row (RS) K49 (55, 61, 65, 71, 77), place marker
Knit to 2 sts before m, pm, yo, pm, [k2, sl m, k1,
(pm), yo, pm, knit to end99 (111, 123, 131,
sl m] 3 times, k2, pm, yo, pm, knit to end103
143, 155) sts. Work 5 rows even in St st. Next
(115, 127, 135, 147, 159) sts. Work even until
row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, pm, yo, pm, k2,
piece measures 23 (23, 24, 24, 25, 25)"
sl m, k1, sl m, k2, pm, yo, pm, knit to end101
from CO, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS)
(113, 125, 133, 145, 157) sts. Work 5 rows even.

Next row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, pm, yo,
K28 (33, 37, 40, 45, 49), working each st
pm, [k2, sl m, k1, sl m] 3 times, k2, pm, yo, pm,
55, 57, 61) sts, knit to end28 (33, 37, 40, 45,
knit to end103 (115, 127, 135, 147, 159) sts.
49) sts rem each side. Place sts on holders.
between m as a Drop st, loosely BO 47 (49, 53,
BILL ABONG TEE
before m, pm, yo, pm, [k2, sl m, k1, sl m] 5
Finishing
Em m a We l f or d
times, k2, pm, yo, pm, knit to end105 (117,
129, 137, 149, 161) sts. Work 5 rows even. Next
With RS tog, join shoulders using three-needle
row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, pm, yo, pm,
BO. Sew side seams, leaving a 6 (6, 7, 7, 8,
page 5 3
Ro w a n Pa n a m a
Work 5 rows even. Next row (RS) Knit to 2 sts
[k2, sl m, k1, sl m] 7 times, k2, pm, yo, pm, knit
8)" opening for armhole. Armhole edging:
to end107 (119, 131, 139, 151, 163) sts. Work
With dpn and RS facing, beg at center of
underarm, pick up and knit 60 (65, 70, 75, 80,
Sizes 33 (37, 41, 44, 48, 52)"
25, 25)" from CO, ending with a WS row.
85) sts evenly spaced around armhole edge.

Yarn Rowan Panama (55% viscose,
33% cotton, 12% linen; 148 yd [135 m]/
50 g):
#323 cornflower, 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) balls
Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers
Next row (RS) K28 (33, 37, 40, 45, 49), working
Pm and join in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1 rnd.
each st between m as a Drop st (see Stitches),
Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts pwise.
end28 (33, 37, 40, 45, 49) sts rem each side.
Place sts on holders.
With straight needles, CO 122 (137, 152, 162,

177, 192) sts. Work Rows 16 of Lace Edging
Size 5 (3.75 mm): straight needles and

set of double-pointed needles (dpn)
Markers (m)
Stitch holders
Tapestry needle
chart101 (113, 125, 133, 145, 157) sts rem.
k on WS
(RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k3tog, k298
k1tbl
(110, 122, 130, 142, 154) sts rem. Work even in
yo
(p1, yo, k1tbl) in same st
Stitches
Drop Stitch: Remove m, drop st off left needle
and ravel it down to yo, remove m, insert tip of
left needle from front to back under top-most
ladder of dropped st; treat this loop as a
regular st for BO.
4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8)"
6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8)"
pieces and seamed.
10 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13)"
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k5, pass 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and

5th sts over first
pattern repeat
front
&
back
Lace Edging
5
3
5
16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26)"
92
no stitch
17 (17, 17, 17, 17, 17)"
This top is worked back and forth in separate
k on RS; p on WS
Next row (RS) Knit. Next row Purl. Dec row
Notes
Emma Welford is a knitwear designer from

western Massachusetts. Find her online at
www.emmawelford.com.
Front
Tools
loosely BO 51 (53, 57, 59, 61, 65) sts, knit to
5 st to 4 st repeat
Yarn Jade Sapphire Khata (50% yak,
Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Purl 1
50% silk; 700 yd [640 m]/100 g):

#K3 heavenly lake, 1 skein
Gauge 22 sts and 28 rnds = 4" in patt
rnd. Knit 8 rnds. Work Rnds 1 and 2 of
Tools
of Elongated St Band. Knit 5 rnds. Inc rnd K2,
Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" and 24" circular (cir)

needles
Marker (m)
Tapestry needle
*M1L, k5; rep from * to last 2 sts, M1L, k2125
Rep last 9 rnds 2 more times. Work Rnds 1 and 2
sts. Knit 1 rnd. Work Rnds 1 and 2 of Elongated

St Band. Knit 7 rnds. Rep last 9 rnds once
more. Work Rnds 1 and 2 of Elongated St Band.
Knit 6 rnds. Inc rnd K2, *M1L, k6; rep from * to
last 3 sts, M1L, k3146 sts. Work Rnds 1 and 2
of Elongated St Band. Knit 7 rnds. Work Rnds 1

and 2 of Elongated St Band. Knit 6 rnds. Inc
Notes
rnd K3, *M1L, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, M1L,
This cowl is worked in the round from the
k2194 sts. Work Rnds 1 and 2 of Elongated
top down.
St Band. Knit 7 rnds. Rep last 9 rnds 3 more
Change to longer circular needle when

necessary.
ATOLL COWL
times. BO all sts as foll: K1, *transfer 1 st from

right needle to left needle, k2tog tbl; rep from *
to end.
J e n n Em e r s o n
page 5 4
Stitches
Elongated Stitch Band:
Finishing
Rnd 1 *K1, wrapping yarn 3 times around right
needle instead of once; rep from * to end.
Rnd 2 *K1, dropping all 3 wraps as st is removed

Jade Sapphire Khata
from left needle; rep from * to end.
Size 19" circumference at top, 34"
Cowl
circumference at bottom, and 17" tall
With shorter cir needle (see Notes), CO 104 sts.
Jenn Emerson is a knitwear designer living

in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Her designs
focus on classic silhouettes with a modern
twist. She can be found on Ravelry as
JennEmerson.
Curl up!
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Summer16 Knitscene
93
Indigo
Elongated St Band (see Stitches). Knit 7 rnds.
Yarn
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www.knit-n-crochet.com
Friendly service and inviting atmosphere.
Come in and see, or shop online, our large
selection of yarn, needles, and accessories.
600 W. Kathleen Ave. #30
(208) 676-YARN (9276)
Knitting Off Broadway

Fort Wayne
New Mexico
www.theyarnstoreatnobhill.com
Join us for Open Knitting anytime during
store hours! Quality yarns, tools, books,
accessories, and unique local items.
120 Amherst Dr. NE
(505) 717-1535
PatternworksCenter Harbor
Knit-n-CrochetCoeur d Alene
www.fiberartscafe.com
FiberArts Caf, yarns, tools, publications,
classes & workshops. Group gather Wed
1-7 p.m. Open TuesdaySaturday 10 a.m.
to 6 p.m., Sunday noon to 6 p.m.
501 N. High St., Ste. L
(856) 669-1131
www.stitchhousedorchester.com
Very cool place to buy yarn, learn to knit,
sew, crochet, or have a party.
846 Dorchester Ave.
(617) 265-8013
www.harrisville.com
Yarns, Looms and Friendly Loom Products
made by Harrisville Designs. Come visit
our shop. We have our full product line on
display, plus spinning equipment, fibers,
yarns, books. Classes.
4 Mill Alley
(603) 827-3996
Uncommon ThreadsLos Altos
FiberArts CafMillville
New Jersey
www.woolbearers.com
Full-service knitting, spinning, weaving,
and dyeing shop specializing in handpainted fiber and yarns, spinning, and weaving
equipment.
90 High St.
(609) 914-0003
Lion Brand Yarn OutletCarlstadt

www.LionBrand.com/outlet.html
50% off first quality discontinued colors
and weekly surprise specials up to 75%
off.
140 Kero Rd.
(201) 939-0611
New York
Lion Brand Yarn StudioNew York
www.lionbrandyarnstudio.com
Wide selection of Lion Brand yarns, free
knit and crochet demonstrations, classes,
and special events.
34 W. 15th St.
(212) 243-9070
Yarn CultureFairport
www.yarnculture.com
Artisan yarn from around the world including Rosy Green Wool, The Uncommon
Thread, Eden Cottage Yarns, Woolfolk
and more.
1387 Fairport Rd., Ste. 885
(585) 678-4894
Interweave Shop Listing ads work!

Knotty Lady Yarns, located in beautiful
downtown Roseburg, is a good example.
We have had a lot of new customers stop by and mention that they saw the listing in one of the
Interweave knitting or crochet magazines. You should give it a try!
Kelley, Knotty Lady Yarns shop owner, www.knottyladyyarns.com
94
www.knitscene.com
Shop OftenShop Your Local Retailer!

Knotty Lady Yarns LLCRoseburg
NW Handspun YarnsBellingham
www.KnottyLadyYarns.com
The premier location for your fiber needs
in Western Oregon. The best stocked, fairest prices & most comprehensive teaching facility.
632 S.E. Jackson St.
(541) 673-2199
www.NWHandspunYarns.com
Quality yarns, books, equipment, supplies
for the knitter, spinner, and weaver.
Classes and gifts. Open TuesdaySunday.
1401 Commercial St.
(360) 738-0167
Pennsylvania
Gosh Yarn It!Kingston
www.goshyarnitshop.com
A beautiful yarn boutique in Northeastern
PA. Visit us for fine yarn, patterns, notions,
and knitting & crochet classes.
303 Market St.
(570) 287-9999
Debbie Macombers A Good Yarn

ShopPort Orchard
www.agoodyarnshop.com
We carry a wide range of yarn, books,
notions, and offer classes for all levels of
knitting and crochet.
1140 Bethel Ave., Ste. 101
(360) 876-0377
Wisconsin
Tennessee
Smoky Mountain Spinnery
Gatlinburg
www.smokymountainspinnery.com
nancy@smokymountainspinnery.com
Visit our recently expanded 3000 square
foot showroom and studio space. Equipment and supplies for spinning, weaving,
knitting, crocheting, rug hooking, dyeing
and felting. Classes, demonstrations,
antiques and gifts
466 Brookside Village Way, Ste 8
(865) 436-9080
Utah
Wasatch and Wool Yarns
Park City
www.wasatchandwool.com
An intimate, boutique experience for locals
and visitors who are knitting and fiber
enthusiasts. We specialize in high quality
yarns from around the world.
1635 W. Redstone Center Dr. G130
(435) 575-0999
The Dragonfly Yarn Shop

Janesville
www.dragonflyyarnshop.com
Wool and luxury fibers. Addi and Crystal
Palace needles. Lessons by the hour.
Home of the Pirouette!
1327 N. Wright Rd., Ste. 5A
(608) 757-9228
Knitcircus Studio and Store

Madison
www.knitcircus.com
knitcircus@gmail.com
A showcase for Knitcircus handpainted
gradient and kettle-dyed yarns with rotating independent-dyer trunk shows and a
carefully curated selection of local handcrafts.
634 Grand Canyon Dr.
(608) 841-1421
CanadaOntario
DocKnitsPort Elgin
Vermont
www.docknits.ca
docknits@eastlink.ca
Canadian store and online yarn shopping
at its best!
651 Goderich St.
(226) 453-5648
Northeast Fiber Arts Center

Williston
Classifieds
www.northeastfiberarts.com
The candy store for knitters, felters and
spinners. Featuring quality yarns & fibers
from around the world & from Vermont!
Plus we stock felting fibers, needle felting
kits, sell wheels & offer classes.
7531 Williston Rd.
(802) 288-8081
WWW.WOOL2DYE4.COM Exclusive line

of undyed yarns for hand-dyers. Make
your work stand out! Wholesale inquiries
welcome. Yarnie@Wool2Dye4.com.
Virginia
Yarn CloudOccoquan
where nature meets imagination
www.yarncloud.com
Yarn Cloud specializes in yummy knitting,
crochet & tatting yarns, notions and classes. NEW LOCATION!
204 Washington St.
(703) 763-3285
Yarns
The Web Connection

Online Store
Abundant Yarn Online
www.abundant-yarn.com
(866) 873-0580
We carry Cascade Yarns.Customer
service is our priority!
Shops/Mail Order
Woobee KnitShop
www.woobeeknitshop.net
(307) 760-2092
Products include Brown Sheep, Waverly,
Jean Greenhowe, Addi, and Skacel.
Shop Listings
Washington
Yarn
n
Oregon
Yarns
Gypsy Girl Creations
www.stonebarnfibers.com
(815) 968-1735
cathi@stonebarnfibers.com
An ever changing kaleidoscope of
uniquecolors.
Wool2Dye4
www.Wool2Dye4.com
Yarnie@Wool2Dye4.com
Exclusive line of undyed yarns for
hand-dye artists.
advertisers index
Brown Sheep Company. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Cascade Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C2, 13
Classic Elite Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Coats & Clark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Denise Interchangeable
Knitting and Crochet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
DMC Corporation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Dragonfl y Fibers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Ehrman Tapestry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Eucalan Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Green Mountain Spinnery . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Halcyon Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Harrisville Designs Inc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Interweave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
22, 59, 63, 65, 71, 73, 75, 77,
87, 89, 91, 93, C3
Irish Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Jade Sapphire Exotic Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Kelbourne Woolens (The Fibre Co) . . . . . . 23
Knitting Pure and Simple . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Lyn Harris Designs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Mango Moon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C4
Oomingmak, Musk Ox Producers . . . . . . . 63
Paradise Fibers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Pigeonroof Studios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Skacel Collection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Stitch Sprouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Tahki Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Universal Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Wool 2 Dye 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
YarnBox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Summer16 Knitscene
95
BLOGSPOTTING
Julia of Hand Knitted Things

(www.handknittedthings.blogspot
.com) uses her space on the Internet to share her lovely projects
and photography. Read on to learn
more about Julia!
Q
A
Q
A
How long have you been blogging?

H
Seven years, starting in November 2008.
Se
What inspired you to start a blog?
W
Starting the blog offered a way of
St
documenting my knitting projects
and sharing them with others. Having
been taught the basics of knit and purl
stitches as a child, I rediscovered knitting decades later. This, combined with
my interest in photography, provided an
outlet for my creative self.
Q
A
What types of projects do you like to

W
knit and blog?
Living on a croft in the northwest of
Li
Scotland, knitted hats and gloves always
come in useful! I travel often, so I like
small knitting projects such as hats,
96
www.knitscene.com
All photos by Julia Marsh
gloves, and socks, as they are easy to

carry. Ive made several pairs of the Basic
Ribbed Socks by Kate Atherley, because
they are great to wear with boots when
walking around the local hills. Occasionally, Ill embark on a larger project such
as a cardigan, but these usually take me
months to complete, so not many appear
on the blog! I also blog about my own
knitted designs from time to time. These
are inspired by the area and landscape
around my home. My Mini Croft House
pattern was inspired by a local building
located across the loch on the Applecross Peninsula.
Q
A
Which post has been your favorite to

W
write so far?
The post titled Berties Shetland Wool
Th
Jumper (www.bit.ly./Berties-Jumper).
I keep a small flock of Shetland sheep
in a variety of colors and have blogged
about the process of making their fleeces
into yarn. During 2015, six different

natural-colored yarns came back from
the spinners. My neighbor took some
of the yarn to make a sweater for her
dog, Bertie. She came up with a Fair Isle
sweater combining the different colors.
The result was lovely, and he looked
so cute wearing his woolly outfit made
from my sheep fleeces. He even called
round to my home specially to show me
his jumper and posed so I could take
hisphoto.
Q
A
Name one blog you love to read and

Na
share why you love it.
Ive been following the story of the inspiIv
rational Kate Davies (www.katedavies
designs.com) for a number of years.
She writes about her knitting designs
and more recently her new yarn range.
Her blog is extremely informative and
contains varied in-depth articles accompanied by beautiful photography.
Follow Julia online:
handknittedthings on Ravelry and
Instagram, @handknitted on Twitter
Includes the
Festival of Quilts Show

in Birmingham
PRESENTED BY
MAGAZINE
Contact: Kim@Craftours.com
877-887-1188

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interweave press

from the publishers of Interweave Knits

simple stylish spirited

Lace, eyelets & layers

Peek inside Kate

Rogue Wave Socks

16 Designer Profile: Heather Zoppetti

beginner: basi c sti tches

To check gauge, cast on thirty to forty stitches using recommended needle

proofreader Nancy Arndt

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Beat the winter blues with playful DMC Top This!:

Photo by Garrett Evans

Weve all been therethat point at

There are a lot of factors that go into choosing the right

are much closer to my own actual measurementsI wear

The Alpinia Tank has six sizesuse these tips

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF

High Bust: Measure just under the arms.

HIGH BUST CIRCUMFERENCE

Short-Sleeve Length: Measure vertically

Fill in your actual measurements in the table at right

Get your own copy of

Love Lace Tee

The Beginners Guide to

Writing Knitting Patterns

to see photos of something you want to make, only to fi nd

Seaming up those flat knitted pieces is a lot easier than

Moonshine & Moonshine Chunky

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Heather Zoppetti is the fastest

Heather was still an aspiring designer,

This collection for Knitscene came

LET FEATURED DESIGNER

inspire your knitting with this design

Stitch Sprouts Yellowstone

The Fibre Company Meadow is

Lace often looks so complex that it can be daunting, but

Well begin with the decreases used most frequently: single

how to manipulate stitches for Eastern