Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
E D I T O R S
L E T T E R
Global business,
local success
The approach of a new year signals more than just a change
of calendars its when we take stock of where weve been,
consider where were headed, and predict which of the
trends weve encountered along the way will continue with
us, bubbling like champagne from one year to the next.
Regarding the first point, hows this for an inventory of
places weve been since last January? Macau, Hong Kong,
Shanghai, Iceland, Tucson, Vicenza, Milan, Israel, Basel, Las
Vegas, Mumbai, Delhi, Bangkok, London, and, of course, New York (our editorial home base).
What that eclectic list is meant to demonstrate is that COUTURE International Jeweler has a
uniquely global perspective on the shifting currents of the jewelry business. Our mission is to be a
resource for people seeking cutting-edge design and trend information from all four corners of the
earth. This not only distinguishes us from other trade journals but sets us apart in the wider world of
magazines, too.
Every quarter, we mail 10,000 copies of the latest issue to the finest jewelry retail and distribution
operations located in more than 100 countries on six of the seven continents (if Antarctica had a
couture jewelry outpost, wed get there, too). We consider CIJ an important bridge between buyers
and sellers at the upper echelons of this far-flung, fragmented trade.
All this is by way of addressing our second point, the one that clarifies where were headed. While
2009 may indeed be a difficult year for the luxury business, were committed to delivering well-edited,
on-the-ground information to our readers, and, hopefully, serving as a critical factor in their ongoing
success. Were convinced that the global business opportunities outlined on our pages will play a key
role in those efforts.
Speaking of timely information, that brings us to the final point of our year-end inventory, in which
we scrutinize the trends that have emerged over the past year and forecast which ones will demand
your attention in the months ahead. More than an exercise in fashionable frivolity, our annual Designing
the Trends issue is a snapshot of the collective mood of couture jewelers worldwide. What looks will be
front and center in the new year? Where are the best sourcing opportunities? What issues and ideas
are shaping the business and how do they correspond to the wider world?
A magazine that answers these questions and more will be an indispensable tool in the greater
campaign to help your businesses thrive, even, or perhaps especially, in a challenging environment.
We believe COUTURE International Jeweler fits the bill, and we sincerely hope you agree. Happy
new year and best wishes for a successful season. We look forward to serving you during what is
sure to be a remarkable year.
Victoria Gomelsky
Editor
vgomelsky@couturejeweler.com
I N
T H I S
I S S U E
47 18
On the cover
Carrera y Carrera
Shangai Necklace Yellow Gold
& White, Brilliants, Yellow Gold
Chain.
www.carreraycarrera.com
no 285 - 4/2008
Design
46 Designer Profile
Every December, we
stake our claims on the
trends and colors we
think will have staying
power in the new
year. For 2009,
well venture a bold prediction: In spite
(or because) of the
darkening economy, you
can count on a vivid year.
Irish-born
Clodagh is a one-named decorating
wonder. From her New York base, she
runs a thriving interior design business
founded upon eco-conscious values.
52
Leslie Harrington 52
Mary Gehlhar 54
Piers Fawkes 56
74
20
70
24
09
Blackberry Collection
LA QUINTA STAGIONE S.P.A. - TEL. +39 0444 515720 - WWW.THEFIFTHSEASON.IT
I N
T H I S
I S S U E
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78
Retail
D E P A R T M E N T S
28 SPECIAL REPORT:
Fashion and Fine Jewelry
Editors Letter 01
Marketplace:
London 64
Marketplace: Mumbai 62
29
64
Advertiser/
Editorial Index 77
Freely Speaking 80
Dr. G. Clotaire Rapaille is
convinced that city-states
such as Dubai hold the
secret to success.
76
80
The Official
Jewelry Magazine of
Couture 2009
COUTURE International Jeweler, 25 route des Acacias, CH - 1227 Genve, Switzerland
Tel. +41 22 307 78 37, Fax +41 22 300 37 48, Help desk: jricher@europastar.com
Crafted in Italy
www.picchiotti.it
2 0 0 9
E V E N T S
A T
G L A N C E
Basel:
March 26-April 2
BaselWorld at the
Basel Convention
Center: The superlative
event of the global
luxury business, not
to be missed
www.baselworld.com
New York:
January 18-20 and
July 26-29
JA New York Winter
and Summer Shows
at Javits Convention
Center: Timely fairs
with a broad selection,
from mass to class
www.ja-newyork.com
Las Vegas:
May 28-June 2
Couture show at the
Wynn Las Vegas: A meeting
place for the cream of the
jewelry crop
www.couturejeweler.com
JCK Las Vegas at the
Sands Expo & Convention
Center: Welcome to the
jewelry trades grand bazaar
www.jcklasvegasshow.com
Tucson:
February 4-9
AGTA GemFair at
Tucson Convention
Center: The greatest
gem show on earth
www.agta.org
Geneva:
January 19-23
Salon International de
la Haute Horlogerie
(SIHH) at Geneva
Palexpo: An invitationonly salon, home to
a coterie of elite
watch brands
www.sihh.ch
Madrid:
January 14-18
Iberjoya at Feria
de Madrid: Spains
most progressive
jewelry showcase,
for both Spanish and
foreign jewelers
www.iberjoya.ifema.es
Milan:
February 22-25
About J at
Superstudio+ in
Zona Tortona:
Italys answer to
the Couture event
in Las Vegas
www.aboutjevent.com
London:
September 6-9
International Jewellery
London at Earls Court
Exhibition Centre: Britains
best talent under one roof
www.jewellerylondon.com
St. Petersburg:
February 4-8
Junwex at the Lenexpo Fairgrounds in
Gavan: Russian retailers get their jewelry
fix at this up-and-coming event
www.restec.ru/exhibitions/featured/junwex
Moscow:
May 25-June 1
The Moscow World Fine
Art Fair at the Manege,
Red Square: Oligarchs
do their shopping at this
glitzy event
www.moscow-faf.com
Vicenza:
January 11-18,
May 16-20 and
September 12-16
First, Charm and
Choice at the
Vicenza fairgrounds:
A jewelry trifecta in
Arezzo:
the heart of Italys
March 21-24
gold region
www.vicenzaoro.org OroArezzo at the
Arezzo Trade
Meeting Centre:
Jewelers from all
across Italy have
been flocking
to this event
since 1980
www.
oroarezzo.it
Dubai:
February 17-18
World Pearl Forum
at the Atlantis Hotel,
Palm Jumeirah: A
meeting of minds in
the pearl industry
www.dpe.ae
Mumbai:
August 6-10
IIJS Show at the
NSE Complex
(Bombay Exhibition
Centre) in Goregaon:
Where Indian buyers
and sellers intersect
www.iijs.org
Macau:
January 8-11
Macau Jewellery & Watch Fair at The
Cotai Strip Convention and Exhibition
Center at The Venetian Macao:
Business meets pleasure in Asias
hottest gambling destination
exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/
exhibitions
September 21-27
September Hong Kong
Jewellery & Watch Fair at
AsiaWorld-Expo and Hong
Kong Convention and Exhibition
Centre: Asias most astute
buyers wouldnt miss this
classy gathering
exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/
exhibitions
Goa:
February 20-23
IIJS Signature at the
Kala Academy in Panaji:
The showcase for Indias
best and brightest
www.iijs-signature.org
Bahrain:
November 17-21
Jewellery Arabia at
Bahrain International
Exhibition Centre: A
Mecca for Middle
Eastern buyers
www.aeminfo.com.bh/
ja2007
Hong Kong:
March 4-8
Hong Kong International
Jewellery Show at the Hong
Kong Convention and Exhibition
Centre: Pearls, watches, gems
and jewelrythis well-organized
show has them all
www.hktdc.com/hkjewelleryshow
Bangkok:
February 25-March 1 and
September 15-19
Bangkok Gems &
Jewelry Fair at the
Impact Exhibition &
Convention Center:
Sourcing in the worlds
prime gem and jewelry
localeit doesnt get
any easier than this
www.bangkokgemsfair.com
T R E N D S
A N D
C O L O R S
Blue Horizons
In shades of cobalt, azure or indigo,
perennially popular blue is sure
to give any look a lift
6
7
11
12
15
13
16
10
14
17
T R E N D S
A N D
C O L O R S
6
3
7
8
12
13
Cool Contrast
Nothing communicates confidence
better than the unambiguous
pairing of black and white
10
11
1. Pebble Pave necklace with moissanite stones in 18-karat white gold and solid pebbles
featuring a black rhodium finish by Moissanite 2. Crazy ring in 14-karat white gold with
13.20 carats of black diamond beads by Catherine Angiel 3. Samarcanda necklace in
white gold with diamonds and enamel by La Nouvelle Bague 4. Verde Key necklace
in sterling silver with black diamonds by Rhonda Faber Green 5. Bracelet in gold with
black and white diamonds by Davite & Delucchi 6. Parabol pendant in platinum on
coil chain by Niessing 7. Arctic Night black and white diamond studs in 14-karat gold
by Waldman Diamonds 8. Desire Love Elixir cup by Sieger by FRSTENBERG
9. Earrings in 18-karat gold with 19.28 carats of rough diamond slices and micro pav
borders by Nina Runsdorf 10. Glass vase by Giannini 11. Scarf by Gianna 12. Linfini
pendant with black and white diamonds by Cartier 13. Black and white icy diamond ring
in 18-karat gold by Hellmuth 14. Model in jewelry by Ippolita, dress by Ina Soltani and
jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show
15. Cluster earrings with 10.97 carats of black diamonds and freshwater pearls in 18-karat
gold by Jeanne Johngren Design.
14
15
Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA
T R E N D S
A N D
C O L O R S
Going Green
Its easy being green when the
selection of jewels from which
to choose is this haute
1. Antea earrings in white gold with diamonds and quartz by Aprile 2. Model in jewelry by
Chiampesan for Gold Expressions and dress by Ina Soltani; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at
the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 3. Mama non mama (Love me, love me
not) ring in pink gold with amethyst, diamonds and tsavorite by Ninetto Terzano 4. Ring
in 18-karat yellow and white gold with diamonds and oval-shaped emerald by Bapalal
Keshavlal 5. Aqua jade and diamond ring by Bochic 6. Handcrafted 18-karat yellow gold
pendant set with a pear-shaped 62.78-carat green beryl and 1 carat of diamonds by Tamir
7. Sofa by Futura 8. Model wearing spring 2009 dress by Ana Maria Macedo 9. Crystal
Haze Helix Marquise ring with green agate and diamonds in 18-karat white gold by Stephen
Webster 10. Handcrafted 18-karat white gold earrings set with oval-shaped 16.91-carat mint
green tourmalines and 1.86 carats of diamonds by Tamir 11. Green Illusion long drop earrings
in 18-karat gold with 42 carats of green onyx briolettes and diamonds by Lata K Designs
12. Quattro pendant with 3.19 carats of green tourmaline in 18-karat gold by Jeane
Johngren Design 13. Snakes necklace with green tourmalines, diamonds and citrine
madeira drop by Lena Sklyut Couture 14. Haute Couture peridot ring in 18-karat white
gold with diamonds by Roberto Coin 15. Peridot knot necklace in 18-karat yellow gold by
Kazanjian by Patrick M 16. Verdant Splendor ring in 18-karat yellow gold with 27.83
carats of tourmaline and 2.21 carats of tsavorite by Paula Crevoshay.
Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA
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15
9
16
10
13
T R E N D S
A N D
C O L O R S
10
Pretty in Pink
and Purple
Ones sweetness complements
the others spirituality.
Together, this combo rules.
11
1. Jaipur earrings in gold with gemstones by Marco Bicego 2. Fly By Night cocktail ring in
white gold with amethyst and diamonds by Stephen Webster 3. Rock Collection Circle C
necklaces with amethyst and rose quartz by Yael Sonia 4. Bowl in stainless steel by Alessi
5. Rose quartz perfume flask pendant by Cartier 6. Giselle bag in lilac by Helena de
Natalio 7. On model, Rouge Amour necklace in platinum with 59 carats of rubellites and a
15-carat kunzite by Georg Spreng 8. Tie of 100 percent silk by Sieger 9. Ring in platinum
and 18-karat pink gold with 12 mm conch pearl, 3.71 carats of white diamonds and 0.99 carats
of pink diamonds by Mikimoto 10. Blueberry ring in sterling silver with amethyst by Kiara
11. Lilli rings in platinum with 4.21-carat amethyst and 3.38-carat morganite by Georg Spreng
12. Pendant in 18-karat yellow gold with 31.25-carat carved agate, moonstone, sapphire and
diamonds by Paula Crevoshay 13. Purple enamel cross in 14-karat white gold with black
diamonds by EV Jewelry Design 14. Spring Love ring in 18-karat yellow gold with pink quartz
and South Sea pearls by Lena Sklyut 15. Necklace in 24-karat gold with rose-cut pink tourmalines by Gurhan 16. Ring in pink gold with diamonds by Zydo 17. Adam & Eve handbag
in purple satin and gold by Shana London. 18. Dangle earrings in platinum with 11.51 carats
of amethyst and diamonds by Gumuchian.
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T R E N D S
A N D
C O L O R S
1
2
7
8
Orange Crush
From sunsets to spice,
the many shades of orange
make everything look nice
1. Earrings set with large oval rose-cut carnelian, small round rose-cut carnelian and 3 mm
rose-cut diamonds with diamond pav in 18-karat yellow gold by Irene Neuwirth 2. From
Top Amber album published by International Amber Association, objet by Marcin Zaremski
3. Earrings in 20-karat pink gold with Imperial topaz, garnets, brown diamonds and naturalcolored peach pearls by Geoffrey Good 4. From Top Amber album published by International
Amber Association, pendant by Manuel Vilhena 5. Dulce Combo mustard clutch by Helena
de Natalio 6. La Preziose ring in yellow gold set with 13.34-carat spessartite garnet,
43 brown diamonds totaling 1.12 carats and 375 yellow intense diamonds totaling 7 carats
by Suzanne Syz 7. Handcrafted platinum and 18-karat white gold earrings set with 10.38
carats of cushion-shaped mandarin garnets and diamonds by Tamir 8. Models in jewelry
by Di Modolo and Mattioli and swimsuits by Sea Queen; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager
at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 9. Eiffel Tower ring in platinum with
6.25-carat cushion-shaped mandarin garnet and 1.33 carats of diamonds by Gumuchian.
3
4
Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA
T R E N D S
A N D
C O L O R S
Golden Opportunity
Prized throughout history for its
symbolic and monetary value,
gold will always be a timeless luxury
2
3
1. Sacred Heart gold cuff in gold-plated metal by Perry Gargano 2. Diamond chandelier
with more than 3,300 perfectly cut diamonds totaling more than 1,000 carats by Hearts
On Fire 3. Leopard Signature ring in 18-karat gold by Daphna Simon 4. Maxi Ruedo
ring in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds by Carrera y Carrera 5. Cassandra earrings
in 18-karat gold with diamonds by Jeanne Johngren Design 6. Gripios Cross pendant in
22-karat gold with diamonds by EV Jewelry Design 7. Cleopatra necklace in 18-karat
gold with diamonds by Martha OBrien 8. Classic Granulation ring in 22-karat granulated
gold by Zeira 9. Charisma in Gold necklace in 18-karat rose gold with almost 400
brilliant-cut diamonds by Herbstrith 10. Sip of Gold cup embellished with platinum,
a diamond-patterned relief and 24-karat gold rim by Sieger 11. Autoral ring in
18-karat yellow gold with diamonds by Carla Amorim 12. Revolution earrings
in 14- or 18-karat gold by J.R. de Bellard Fine Jewelry 13. Model in earrings
by Amali and swimsuit by Sea Queen; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the
Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 14. Stardust necklace in yellow
gold with diamonds by Staurino Fratelli 15. Grace Petite clutch in saffron
alligator with vermeil clasp encrusted with faceted smoky quartz and cabochon
citrine by Jada Loveless 16. Pepita necklace in yellow gold with white and
brown enamel by Fifth Season 17. Chippendale console by Arti & Mestieri.
Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA
6
7
12
14
15
10
16
11
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13
T R E N D S
A N D
C O L O R S
6
7
3
4
1. Om Garden ring in silver with pink sapphire pav by Sonja Picard 2. Earrings in sterling
silver with 18-karat gold and diamonds by Slane & Slane 3. Superstud stacked bangles
in sterling silver by Stephen Webster 4. Maria Antonietta glass plate by Ego vetri
delle venezie 5. Pic Fleurs vase designed by Richard Hutton and silver plate by Christofle
6. Verde Flower earrings in sterling silver with 22-karat yellow gold accents by Rhonda Faber
Green 7. Boheme bracelet in silver with quartz by Calgaro 8. Croco dArgent evening bag
in sterling silver by Christofle 9. Sable bangles in silver with 24-karat gold dots by Gurhan.
8
9
E
I
M O T I O N S
F
I N E
E W E L L E R Y
E A U T Y
M O T I O N S
IT
COMES
AND
I S
C R E AT E D
OUT
SHINES
B Y
OF
THE
BRIGHT
HEART
LIKE
THE
SUN.
W W W
.B
L U M E R
D E
T R E N D S
A N D
C O L O R S
10
11
12
16
15
Natural Selection
Jewels immortalizing the earths
flora and fauna honor
the ethos that green is good
13
14
1. Dragonfly cuff bracelet in 18-karat white gold with 11 carats of diamonds by Supreme
Jewelry 2. Fairy Tale Lion brooch in gold with enamel, diamonds, amber, rubies and silver by
Lobortas & Karpova 3. Brooches in gold with diamonds and emeralds by Andreoli 4. Bug
Me ring in white gold with chrysocolla, white diamonds, black sapphires and onyx by Stephen
Webster 5. Bag by Braccialini 6. Spirit Animals grasshopper pendants in carved jet and elk
antler with 18-karat gold legs, lace agate eyes and diamonds by Katey Brunini Jewels
7. Phoenix bangle in white gold with diamonds in featherlike settings and drop shapes by Boodles
8. Dragonfly pendant in 18-karat gold with demantoid garnet, chrome diopside, rainbow hematite
and pearl by Paula Crevoshay 9. Pendant-brooch with 63.16 carats of yellow tourmaline,
freshwater stick pearls, 5.40 carats of canary diamonds and 30.26 carats of cognac diamonds
by Adria de Haume 10. Diamond spider pendant in 14-karat white gold on 18-karat white
gold chain with 26 carats of white beaded sapphires by Catherine Angiel 11. Peacock feather
earrings in oxidized silver and 18-karat gold with rose-cut diamonds and ruby eyes by Lotus
Arts de Vivre 12. Ava necklace in 18-karat white gold and rose-cut diamonds by Carrera y
Carrera 13. Callas brooch in gold with Tahitian cultured pearl, orange and cognac sapphires and
diamonds by Schoeffel 14. Fly By Night Batmoth ring in white gold with diamonds by
Stephen Webster 15. Butterfly earrings in 18-karat white and black gold with 6.27
carats of diamonds and 5.62 carats of brown diamonds by Gioielleria Nardi
16. Butterfly ring in 18-karat gold with chocolate diamonds by Elyssa Bass Designs
17. Model in earrings by Uzca Jewels and swimsuit by Gottex; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager
at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 18. Flower ring in 18-karat gold with 11.46
carats of rose-cut rough diamonds and rose-cut diamonds by Nina Runsdorf.
17
18
Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA
T R E N D S
A N D
C O L O R S
3
4
1. Model with jewelry by Gold Expressions and dress by Ina Soltani; jewelry styling by Shaye
Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 2. Brooch in platinum with opal,
emerald, emerald eyes and diamonds by Cartier 3. Guardian of the Myth ring with 7.62-carat
rough diamond, 15 carats of rough, white and fancy colored diamonds in white gold by
De Beers 4. Couture Stiletto in snake skin, silk and leather hand embroidered
with Tahitian and freshwater pearls by Schoeffel with Unrath & Strano 5.
Spirit Animals spider web domed ring in 18-karat yellow gold with carved elk
antler snake and diamonds by K. Brunini Jewels 6. Envelope clutch in multicolor
snake print with removable wristlet strap by Helena de Natalio 7. Signature belt buckle
in sterling silver, 18-karat gold, green tourmalines and diamonds by Lena Sklyut Couture
8. Snakes bracelet with camel leather and double snake shaped buckle handcrafted and
engraved in sterling silver by Manuel Bozzi 9. Bracelet in blackened silver with
diamonds by Kathy Rose 10. Serpentine earrings in sterling silver with spessartite,
rose-cut diamonds, rubies and 18-karat gold by Lotus Arts de Vivre.
6
Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA
9
10
T R E N D S
A N D
C O L O R S
Rainbow Coalition
If these rich color combinations
say anything, its that beauty
lies in the blend
1. Telaio choker with 54.74 carats of pear-shaped fancy colored sapphires, 2.40 carats
of diamonds and rock crystal in white gold by Fabio Salini 2. Meteorite earrings in
18-karat white gold with cognac diamonds by Roberto Coin 3. Model in bracelet
by Orlando Orlandini and dress by Ina Soltani; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the
Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 4. Luminous multicolored sapphire bracelet
in 22-karat granulated gold with diamonds by Zeira 5. Berry Drop necklace with amethyst,
multi-color tourmalines and whiskey quartz by Lisa Cotten 6. Clash bracelet in 18-karat
white gold with white diamonds, amethyst and other semiprecious gems by Valente Milano
7. Museum Collection cuff with silver Tahitian pearls and 54.25 carats of multicolor sapphires
by Tara & Sons 8. Tortoise ring in yellow gold with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, onyx and
Australian black opal by Lydia Courteille 9. Button clutch by Hubris & Homefries.
9
Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA
7
8
GR80100
SPECIAL REPORT
FASHION AND FINE JEWELRY
Recessi
When the economy behaves as tempestuously as it has
>> Victoria Gomelsky
High drama, low budget This page: Costume jewelry, like this bold geometric necklace
from Lanvins fall 2008 runway show, has earned high marks this season because it can
afford to go big. In the fine jewelry sphere, some designers, like Rhonda Faber Green, are
opting for sterling silver. Her diamond-accented Verde bangles start at $580 retail. Opposite
page: Miu Mius space-age heels seem to subvert the heel hypothesis of the economy.
Other budget-conscious designers have chosen palladium, as in this Barry Kronen pendant.
Jessica Simpson wearing coral and onyx earrings by Bochic.
on style
this year, the fashion market is sure to feel the pinch
scarves, chunky and colorful platforms and, last but not least, statement
jewelry, the more outr, the more alchemical and interesting, Campbell
says, the better.
Costume party
Given the soaring costs of precious metals and stones, however, style
comes at a hefty price. That explains why costume, or fashion, jewelry is
playing a more significant role now than during any season in recent
memory. Its a straightforward equation: Take X number of ounces of
gold and multiply them by the current gold price (as of early November,
down to $725 per ounce, but still quite volatile).
The costly result makes clear that in order to support all those trendy
layered chains, draped like armor in homage to Run DMC, Mr. T and other
icons of 80s ghetto style, only faux will do. The most successful of these
costume efforts are strange and odd-looking, but they tell a very compelling
story, Campbell says, citing Lanvins Alber Elbaz and Balenciagas
Nicolas Ghesquiere for their really brilliant and really odd creations.
For fall 08, Ghesquiere opted for a sinewy blend of faux stones,
strass and pearls that have a vintage appeal, according to the blog The
Luxe Chronicles, adding that the delicateness of the pieces was an
unexpected but appealing complement to the austerity of [his] fashions.
Elbaz, lauded for engineering a costume jewelry comeback on par with
the resplendent designs of Chanel and Dior circa 1950, went in a
different direction. By layering his models with bold, geometric necklaces
big enough to look like breastplates for the high priests of fashion,
Elbazs 80s fixation came through loud and clear. No era has a greater
resonance for him, as evidenced by his prodigious use of grosgrain
ribbons and tapes of fabric, adding a sense of geometry without
screaming 1980s architecture, wrote Suzy Menkes, fashion columnist
for the International Herald Tribune.
1980s nostalgia
The Lanvin designer isnt alone in his passion for jewelry harking back to
a decade that has spawned more than its fair share of nostalgia. The
twosome behind New Yorks Bylu (pronounced Blue), Ken Leung and
Dana Chin, spent their summer decorating handcuff-style bangles, twofinger rings and multiple-chain necklaces with vivid splashes of cold enamel
in order to create their 145.60 (onefortyfivesixty) collection of brass jewelry.
Inspired by the raw expression of the hip hop and graffiti movements
SPECIAL REPORT
FASHION AND FINE JEWELRY
Arm candy
Bylus collection has something else to recommend it: Its
stacked with bangles and cuff bracelets, the styles most in
vogue thanks to the way they lend themselves to being
piled on and mixed together in a spirited blend of materials,
not the least of which is sterling silver in a trendy blackened
finish, the fashionistas fallback to 18-karat gold.
The person who wants to buy and wear five to 10 bangles
doesnt want to go crazy, says Los Angeles-based Rhonda
Faber Green, whose two-year-old Verde collection of
engraved, finely detailed sterling silver bangles is designed
for women who like the look of excess yet shun the corresponding price tag.
To wit: A 5-millimeter sterling silver fleur de lis bangle from
the Verde collection retails for $690, while the corresponding
bangle in 22-karat gold sells for nearly five times that
amount: $3,150.
Some retailers buy both the silver and gold and have
them all in one case, says Green, whose competition in the
Metal mania
Its not rocket science. The metals market has seen its most
active year since the investment bubble of the early 1980s
so active, in fact, that graphs of gold and platinum prices in
2008 look like the heart rate monitor of a very unstable
patient. Platinum, for one, surpassed the $2,000 mark in
February before scaling down, up and back down again. As of
early November, it rested uneasily around $820, a mere trifle
more than gold, which is, in and of itself, a bizarre scenario.
With currency markets behaving just as erratically, the
jewelry industry has shown a newfound zeal for alternative
metals. One apparent beneficiary is palladium, a member of
the platinum group now being touted as the metal for the
21st century because of its white cast, rarity and relatively
inexpensive price: Since the beginning of the year, palladium
has dropped dramatically to around $200 per ounce.
Another new entrant to the metals market is Karat Platinum
in New York, which has pioneered an innovative 14-karat
platinum alloy that combines a 41.5 percent cobalt-copper
blend with 58.5 percent platinum.
Its got a wonderful color, a luxury feel, strength and durability, and its hitting a price point directly between 14-karat
gold and platinum 950, said Michael Ottaway, director of
merchandising (before, that is, metal prices went haywire).
Although the companys hopes are pinned on the bridal
market, its range includes a wide selection of fashion jewelry,
The price is right Bangles from Bylus 145.60 collection of brass jewelry
have struck a chord with fine jewelry buyers, in part because of their low price.
Karat Platinums vintage-style diamond drop earrings and diamond and blue
sapphire bangle bracelet are made from a unique 14-karat platinum alloy.
SPECIAL REPORT
FASHION AND FINE JEWELRY
popular. For decades, the look was simply too ethnic to play
on the postwar, postindustrial, postmodern fashion stage.
Suddenly, inspired by Indias star turn on the global scene,
jewelry connoisseurs are again citing the countrys 5,000year-old design heritage, newly co-opted by a rising cohort
of luxury jewelers besotted with traditional Indian craftsmanship and locally sourced precious stones. Chief among
them are Mumbais Viren Bhagat, Jaipurs Gem Palace and
two Hollywood red-carpet favorites, Amrapali and Bochic.
Investor confidence
Looking ahead to 2009, theres no denying that the economic
outlook is fraught with uncertainty, with forecasters such as
Gerald Celente, founder of the Trends Research Institute,
warning of an impending economic 9/11 (he describes
the sub-prime mortgage problem as merely a crack at the
bottom of the foundation). But the idea that jewelry is a
sound purchase continues to build.
The whole market has declined sharply overall, but jewelry
is holding on better than others because it really does have
intrinsic value, says Pam Danziger, founder of Unity Marketing,
a boutique market research firm based in Stevens, Pa.
Jewelry is perceived as a better place to indulge your money
than handbags or clothing.
Plenty of retailers can testify to that phenomenon. Paul
Schneider, co-owner of Twist, a Portland, Ore., jewelry
boutique known as a bellwether for trends, says that
after more than 20 years in the fine jewelry business, he and his wife/business partner had their
best Christmas last year, just as the recession
began to build, and that his high-end business
continues to boom, with customers embracing
22-karat gold, rose-cut diamonds, organic
shapes and anything that boasts a green
or eco-sustainable tie-in.
Youve got to be cautious about
panicking about the economy, Schneider
says. Weve developed a quality core
customer base and a great position in
the marketplace, and we dont want to
abandon that. Our wealthiest customers are
buying the highest-end pieces, and they still need
us. It would be a shame if we werent ready for them.
Lets not let our fears dictate what we buy and what
our customers want.
Hurray for Bollywood Kate Beckinsale at the 15th Annual
Women of Hollywood event wears yellow rose-cut diamond earrings
by Amrapali, an Indian brand favored by celebrities, who have taken
a shine to ornate yellow gold bangles and chandelier earrings.
www.enlightened.swarovski.com
2009
is the year to celebrate the art of the jewel. Individual and intensely personal, the jewel is
now regarded and appreciated as a true work of art. Emotion underlines all Gem Visions
directions for 2009 showing fine jewellery as the embodiment of feelings, passion, love, loyalty, celebration
and self-expression. In the new mood of emotional luxury, every jewel has a soul. Gem Visions research has
identified four main trends for 2009, encompassing the most significant design directions influencing and
shaping the fine jewellery world.
TOUS
TTF Studio
Roberto Coin
Roberto Marroni
Autore
Tiret NY
Farah Khan
Daniel Swarovski
ME
precious
Carrera y Carrera
SPECIAL REPORT
FASHION AND FINE JEWELRY
Sheer
genius
Slouchy
trousers
Vera
Wang
BCBG
Max Azria
Size
matters
In the
boudoir
Derek
Lam
Marc
Jacobs
All photos provided by WireImage. Photographers, from left to right: Thomas Concordia, Randy Brooke, JP Yim, Randy Brooke
Modern
ruffles
Fleshed
out
Narciso
Rodriguez
Calvin
Klein
Tie me up,
Tie me down
LWD (Little
White Dress)
3.1 Phillip
Lim
Rodarte
All photos provided by WireImage. Photographers, from left to right: Randy Brooke, Thomas Concordia, Randy Brooke, JP Yim
DESIGNER PROFILE
CLODAGH
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TASTEMAKERS
LESLIE HARRINGTON
It happened
tomorrow
For Leslie Harrington, one of the
worlds leading color forecasters,
next year is already old news
wice a year, Leslie Harrington Ph.D,
executive director of the New Yorkbased Color Association, gathers her
advisory board, comprised of retailers, manufacturers, interior designers and consultants,
to talk about the future. Specifically, the group
ponders what the world will look like 24
months down the line. They began talking
about the environment seven years ago,
and guess what? theyre still talking about
it, though the issue has evolved to include a
greater focus on gardening, the soon-to-befelt impact of skyrocketing food prices and,
of course, the darkening economy. She spoke
to us shortly before the Fall/Winter 20102011 forecasting meeting, which, given the
uncertainties in the marketplace, promised
to be livelier than usual.
CIJ: Has any color become pass? LH: Were not seeing deep chocolate brown. Its not so much that its pass, but its evolved to a more
mid-tone, like a cigar-brown, a tobacco-brown or a chestnut brown.
CIJ: Whats with all this lightening? LH: Sometimes colors dont change,
but we see an overall lightening of the palette or a change in contrasts.
For example, in the 90s we saw sea foam green and peach paired
together when that warm/cool combination was in. But today we see
more warm/warm and cool/cool contrasts, like blues and greens
together, or oranges, yellows and reds. We talk about the world flattening,
becoming much more global, so cultural influence is becoming more
significant in our world, and those color palettes tend to be warm/warm
combinations that remind us of southern latitudes, or Mexico.
CIJ: And China and India? LH: Absolutely. In 2008, we had two color
palettes, the Far East and Indian Markets, both much bolder and richer and
more intense. When we started to talk about China, we knew the Olympics
were coming in and wed see a lot of national pride a big ball of cultural
experience that was coming and would influence people, if on an unconscious level. You cant help but love those opulent reds and yellows.
CIJ: So whats brewing for 2010? LH: We just did 2010, and in November
well be doing Fall/Winter 2010-2011. I can hardly wait to see what everybody brings to the table. I know the economy will be at the forefront. By
fall 10-11, are things going to be better? And if not, how will consumers be
feeling? Will they be looking to buy color? Well be meeting post-election,
so well talk about what the impact of the next president will be. Well talk
Indian idol The Kali Ma pendant from EV Jewelry Design, in 18-karat yellow gold with
diamonds and Burmese and Brazilian rubies in marquise, round and pear shapes, reflects
the vogue for Indian-inspired jewelry, as well as the reds and yellows that go with it.
All over the world, Rosy Blue works with the most
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ANTWERP | DUBAI | HONG KONG | JOHANNESBURG | MUMBAI | NEW YORK | SHANGHAI | TEL AVIV | TOKYO
TASTEMAKERS
LESLIE HARRINGTON
TASTEMAKERS
MARY GEHLHAR
Alpilex Diamond
MFG. BVBA
Pelikaanstraat 78, room 604-605, Box 140
2018 Antwerpen - Belgium
tel. (32)(3) 233 91 60 - Fax (32) (3) 225 12 81
e-mail: alpilex@pandora.be
TASTEMAKERS
MARY GEHLHAR
TASTEMAKERS
PIERS FAWKES
something really exciting. Shoppers already have the basics, but when
they do buy theyre looking for that one really interesting item to add
flair to their outfit.
CIJ: What trends do you expect to dominate 2009? MG: Spring 09
is a great time to talk about jewelry, because in some ways it outshone
the clothing. Really big, tons of color and tons of it everywhere. All the
stacking and layering, so much texture and chunkiness. The downturn is
definitely not coming through as minimalism. The color and cheerfulness
is great. While people cut back on clothing, they may spend a little
more on accessories to freshen up what they already own. Theyll be
able to update something they already own with 20 coral necklaces.
CIJ: Its almost as if designers are refusing to surrender to all the
economic doom and gloom. MG: Yeah, because everything is big and
everything is plentiful and thats true for all accessories: belts, shoes, bags.
CIJ: Which of the spring collections stood out? MG: Marc Jacobs
collection was amazing: the color, silhouettes, the layering. It was so
fun and beautiful and optimistic. It was a top 10 for just about
everybody. I thought Rodarte was beautiful and truly
visionary. And Philip Lim. He is so relevant. His clothes
are easy to wear and have a price point that is understandable. I thought Lanvin was crazy beautiful. And
on the runway, Zac Posens use of jewelry was
really on trend: geometric, stacking, black and
white, which is the other side of all this color.
CIJ: Are any of these fashion designers using
precious materials? MG: Now that I think about
it, everything Ive talked about has been costume
jewelry because of its scale.
CIJ: Right. It would be difficult to pull off that kind
of volume in 18-karat gold. It makes me wonder
how fine jewelers are supposed to promote luxury
when the economy is so fragile. MG: You talk about
collectibles, about heirlooms, about things to pass
down. Emerging designers still hope theres a market
in Asia. Two weeks ago, I would have said Russia was
still a place to sell, but that isnt the case today.
CIJ: So whats your gut feeling about the new year?
MG: I think its going to be bad, but there is an opportunity for innovation. Theres a lot of stuff out there, and I
think the cream will rise to the top. If your stuff is fresh and innovative,
there will be enough of a market to get you through.
Super-size Oversize statement necklaces, like Rhonda Faber Greens Verde five-strand
number in sterling silver with black diamonds, are trending big for 2009.
Content king
Piers Fawkes, CEO and founder
of PSFK, traffics in the global
currency of good ideas
n an economy that values knowledge as
both a product and a tool, having access
to bright ideas determines who has the
edge. Piers Fawkes, CEO and founder of PSFK,
a New York-based trend consultancy that counts
Apple and Target among its clientele, knows
that better than most. His flagship Web site,
PSFK.com, is nothing so much as a compendium
of the quirkiest, most inventive and avantgarde ideas circulating in popular, business
and consumer culture. Not for nothing does it
receive up to half a million visitors a month.
Shortly after returning from Singapore, where
PSFK staged its sixth global conference in
October, Fawkes talked to us about some of
the best brainstorms to emerge from this troubled year, including a few abstract thoughts on
luxury that may surprise you.
TASTEMAKERS
PIERS FAWKES
COUTURE International Jeweler: Whats your take on the downturn in the economy? Piers Fawkes: Were trying to be positive.
Were getting ready to release a good ideas report. We normally do
a trends issue around this time, but what would we say? This sucks,
that sucks. Were trying to stimulate the bounce.
CIJ: Of the things youve covered in the past year, what has caught
your attention? PF: Weve been looking at something called analog
love. I wouldnt call it a technology backlash but a nostalgic reinterpretation of products. We see this with a revival of notebooks. Muji
just came out with something called the Chronotebook, which is a
day-planner organized on an analog axis, like a clock. Even in technology, were seeing a celebration of analog. The iPhone has an
application that turns your phone into something that looks like an
old-fashioned clock. Weve seen wind-up toys rather than ones you
have to stick a battery in, and a move away from plastic thats been
going on for a while. I wouldnt call it a backlash to technology but a
nostalgic appreciation of the past.
CIJ: Have any retail or luxury trends intrigued you? PF: Well, weve
been thinking about more abstract things that are luxurious. For
example, the idea of light as a luxury. Many of us work in cramped
offices, so light becomes a luxury. In retail, you see that with large
windows and so forth, to provide this light. Another idea is clarity, minimalism and the clearing of clutter. Were seeing a backlash against
Asian invasion The skyline of Singapores central business district, where a rising
creative class is poised to take the next decade, if not the century, by storm.
MARKETPLACE
MUMBAI
Made in India
Foreigners eye the Indian market while the
locals promote their jewels to the world
o virtually every adult with access to a newspaper or television, it
should come as no surprise that the credit crunch has taken its toll
on the jewelry industry. Special mention, however, should be made
of India, whose domestic jewelry market is growing at such a pace that
even in the face of global recession, it looks poised to weather the chaos.
The platform from which a good portion of domestic business is done is
the India International Jewelry Show, organized by the quasi-governmental
Gem and Jewelry Export Promotion Council. The fair takes place every
year during the first half of August in the NSE exhibition complex in north
Mumbai, a venue not without its share of logistical problems (a propensity
to flood during monsoon season, for example).
This years edition, though lighter than expected on business (due, of
course, to the darkening economy), saw heavy traffic thanks to the councils
strategic courting of foreign exhibitors.
A first-time pavilion of Israeli diamantaires reflected Israels eagerness
to get a piece of the action.
The Indian consumer market shows tremendous potential, said Moti
Ganz, chairman of the Israel Diamond Institute. Indians traditionally have
designed, created and consumed diamond and gem-studded jewelry. We
are very excited to participate in this show and look forward to creating
mutually beneficial business ties with the Indian diamond industry.
While the local market continues to attract foreigners, a parallel effort
is under way at the council to actively promote Indian-made jewelry to
overseas buyers. The first target is the Middle East, with show organizers
going so far as to suggest an IIJS sister show may one day open in
Dubai or Sharjah, two of the United Arab Emirates.
While the U.S. market lingers in uncertainty, the Indians also hope to
penetrate new territories, including Russia, Iran and Pakistan, said
Sanjay Kothari, the outgoing chairman of the GJEPC.
We have had a lot of Pakistani jewelers come to the show in the last
four years, he said. Hopefully by 2009 we will be able to make inroads.
The organizers of IIJS are also on a mission to elevate the reputation
of Indian-made jewels. The vehicle for this campaign is the IIJS Signature
Goa show, scheduled to run in the seaside resort Feb. 20-23.
By limiting the show to 150 to 200 high-end exhibitors, the organizers,
Kothari said, hope to show the world that India is capable of making
jewelry on par with the Italians.
So sari The India International Jewelry Show is held near a concentration of Bollywood
studios. That might explain why the fair stages elaborate fashion shows starring a plethora
of leading ladies dressed in lavish, bejeweled saris. The 2008 edition included 24 companies
from Israel, whose diamantaires are eyeing the fast-growing domestic market.
www.awdc.be
Photo by visitlondonimages/britainonview
MARKETPLACE
LONDON
Furniture photos courtesy of Barry Friedman Ltd., New York and Carpenters Workshop Gallery
C O U T U R E
A D V E R T O R I A L
BASELWORLD
The World Watch and Jewellery Show
Where Business begins and Trends are created
Discovering innovations, pinpointing trends and
forging valuable personal contacts BASELWORLD
offers the ideal platform for all of these. The biggest
and most important event globally in the watch and
jewellery industry is being held from March 26 to April 2,
2009 in Basel, Switzerland.
The key players of the global watch and jewellery industry
meet up once a year at BASELWORLD. Decision makers
and eminent figures from the exhibitor companies, as well as
buyers and the media appreciate the unique business atmosphere that prevails at the World Watch and Jewellery Show.
Over a total of eight days, more than 2000 companies
from the watch, jewellery, precious-stone and related
sectors present their new products and the innovations of
the year. Occupying a surface area of 160000 m2 in
multi-storey stands in some cases our exhibitors present
impressive brand worlds at the topmost level, showcasing
the full range of their know-how and their enormous
creativity at BASELWORLD.
Attracting more than 100000 visitors, BASELWORLD
constitutes the biggest networking platform in the sector.
It provides an opportunity to foster existing relationships
and to forge new, personal contacts. Buyers from all over
the world come here to gain an overview of everything that
is on offer in the watch and jewellery industry.
The preparations for BASELWORLD 2009 are in full
swing. Alongside the customary extensive range of prod66 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler
BASELWORLD 2009
The World Watch and Jewellery Show
Date:
Place:
Opening hours:
Admission:
Organiser:
Internet:
E-mail:
Statistics 2008:
Thursday, March 26 to
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Exhibition Center Basel
Daily 9 am to 6 pm
From 9 am to 4 pm on the last day
1 day pass CHF 60.00
8 day pass CHF 150.00
MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd.
www.baselworld.com
visitor@baselworld.com
Number of visitors: 106'800
Number of exhibitors: 2'087
Accredited journalists: 2'981
Gross floor space: 160'000 m2
Net floor space: 116'100 m2
BASELWORLD
THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW
MARCH 26 APRIL 2, 2009
P R O M O T I O N
Asian Gallery
C O U T U R E
I N F L U E N C E S
collections
Mother Russia
The former Soviet Union is a fertile
breeding ground for new jewelry talent
Nearly two decades into the great capitalist experiment, Russia
and its former republics are a bastion perhaps the last
bastion of unbridled spending, plunging oil prices and
sinking stock markets be damned. It makes perfect
sense, then, that on the international scene,
Russian jewelers are finally having their moment.
From the rebirth of the Faberge brand under
new management (scheduled for spring 2009)
to the emergence of a new class of designers
whose jewels draw on traditionally Russian themes
and techniques skilled enamel work and expert
stone-setting, chief among them the Russian
jewelry diaspora is more active than ever.
In Los Angeles, M&L Jewelry, founded by
brothers Michael and Leon Landver, originally from
Kiev, has manufactured a collection of cocktail
rings that re-create the cupolas of Red Square
and the pillows once used by czarinas to rest
their royal feet. Designed by Armenian expat
Jirayr Gyurjyan, the dramatic semiprecious
stones that make up the collection picture
jawbreaker-sized spheres of faceted quartz
and topaz set atop wide 18-karat gold shanks
suggest that the Russian aesthetic is elegant
but also a little barbarian, says Michael Landver.
I B E R J O YA
FERIA DE
MADRID
42
Saln
de
Internacional
la Joyera,
Platera, Relojera
e I n d u s t r i a s A fi n e s
Intern ation al Jeweller y,
Silverware, Watch
and Auxiliar y Industries
Exhibition
14-18
enero/january
ORGANIZA / ORGANISED BY
(34) 91 722 57 92
IFEMA
Feria de Madrid
28042 Madrid
Espaa / Spain
iberjoya@ifema.es
www.iberjoya.ifema.es
I N F L U E N C E S
trending
Faux sure
Costume jewelry has once again come into its
own, wrote The New York Times in a 1938 article
lauding Chanels flamboyant, iridescent necklaces. That faux jewels were a hit during the Great
Depression may explain why 70 years later, as
we enter our own perfect storm of financial crises,
the fashion world is renewing its appreciation for
costume jewels. Vera Wang, Lanvin and Balenciaga
were among the labels that emphasized dramatic
accessories on the runways during the latest
round of fashion shows. Rather than streamlining looks to reflect a pared-down sensibility,
designers are piling things on, using layers of
necklaces, stacks of bangles and voluminous
metallics to deflect attention from the economy
and its effect on our collective mood. Just look to
the exuberant creations of Daniel Weinberger,
a designer who collaborated with Anne
Demeulemeester on both of her spring 2009
catwalk shows. From brass to strass, the faux
materials he uses approximate the look of fine
jewelry only insofar as both are eye-catching.
Alas, when volume is in vogue, as it is today, the
former becomes all the more appealing.
Fine fakes From top, Yves Saint Laurent cuff in anthracite
metal, earrings in gold tone metal with turquoise, crystal and
strass, and cuff in gold tone metal with coral and glass. At
bottom, a theatrical costume design from Daniel Weinberger,
sold by Londons Kabiri.
72 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler
I N F L U E N C E S
Bangkoks best
Known among Thai high society for its bold, organic
jewelry, Lotus Arts de Vivre introduces a line of
furniture and objets dart sure to enthrall collectors
Where can you find a single seven-meter piece of mahogany? asks
Rolf von Bueren, chairman of Lotus Arts de Vivre, a family-run jewelry
company in Bangkok, as he points to a 23-foot-long mahogany root
sculpture carved in the likeness of a fierce, mythical eagle. Where?
he repeats.
Indonesia, as it turns out. Whats more, the massive mahogany bird,
perched on a base of black granite, looks powerful enough to have flown
here itself here being the courtyard of the Lotus Arts de Vivre workshop,
located on the outskirts of Bangkok near the southern loop of the Chao
Phraya River. Its arrived just in time for the occasion of its grand unveiling:
a mid-September open house marking the launch of the companys first
major collection of furniture, tableware and large-scale objets dart.
That the $605,090 eagle, with its oxidized silver claws,
engraved silver beak and resplendent silver tail feathers,
required 17 people working continuously for 14 months to
produce is just one indication of how seriously Lotus Arts de
Vivre takes its mandate. The firm, beloved by collectors the
world over, produces a range of Asian-inspired jewels, handbags and
lifestyle accessories that celebrate the raw and organic beauty of Mother
Nature, while simultaneously adhering to standards of such fine craftsmanship that theyve earned a reputation as the Cartier of Asia.
Everything we do starts with the raw materials, Rolf says, as he leads
a group of visitors into a room laden with stacks of stingray skins, bins
of nautilus shells and other organic materials sourced from the region.
We sit on huge stocks and have a fingerprint system to track inventory.
The fun is in the production; selling is actually a bore.
But sell they do to connoisseurs and captains of industry, heads of
state and royalty at stand-alone boutiques located in some of the finest
hotels in the world. Chief among them are Raffles in Singapore, the
Oriental Hotel in Bangkok and the Setai in Miami, not to mention a scattering of select retailers, including Bergdorf Goodman in New York and
Cindy Griem Fine Jewels in Aspen, Colo.
The von Buerens, a close-knit foursome composed of Rolf, his wife,
Helen, and their sons, Sri and Nicki, have invited interior
designers, property developers and longtime friends of the
company to the weekend-long open house, in an initial
attempt to attract interest in the interiors category.
Weve always been asked to help decorate houses, so
weve always done household items, says Rolf as he walks
Animal farm Using a single workshop stocked with an inventory of precious and exotic
materials and a team of skilled craftspeople, Lotus Arts de Vivre is able to create an
impressive array of objects. Jewelry, such as the carved emerald and pearl bead necklace
shown above, came first, followed in recent months by a menagerie of animals, including
this 7-meter-long mahogany eagle and fearsome crocodile. The crocs body is made of
iron wood, while its skull once belonged to a real beast, sourced and carved in Indonesia.
a visitor through a veritable garden of silvery crocodiles featuring real-life skulls carved by Indonesian
artisans. Theyre easier to sell than jewelry; theyre
easier to understand.
Although Lotus Arts de Vivre had its beginnings in jewelry 25 years ago, when Helen
began designing pieces for friends after Sri
and Nicki went away to boarding school, the von
Buerens have parlayed their significant expertise in
using traditional Thai techniques into creating hundreds
of large-scale objects, ranging from fantasy furniture
covered in fine layers of gold leaf to diamond-encrusted walking
sticks shaped like birds heads, their ruby eyes glistening in the tropical sun.
What lends the diverse assortment a startling degree of artistic unity is the
attention to detail that imbues even the most fantastical octopus carving or
fearsome dragons head with a sense of authenticity. A five-headed snake,
for example, carved from dark brown iron wood, has a split tongue, fangs
and coils made of oxidized silver, like a mutant reptile thats been dipped
in a metallic bath and preserved for science.
In this way, Lotus Arts de Vivre takes its inspiration from the rich
tradition of Thai folk art nurtured by Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, whose
Foundation for the Promotion of Supplementary Occupations and
Related Techniques, or SUPPORT Foundation, teaches villagers
uniquely Thai versions of techniques like silverware, embroidery,
basketry and damascene so that they may always live on in Thai culture.
The products of her royal patronage, on display at the Arts of the
Kingdom exhibition currently being held at Bangkoks Dusit Palace,
include an elaborate diamond-studded pavilion throne that required 285
artisans one year to complete and a wood-carved screen that tells the
Legend of Bejaratana, a tale of deities and celestial beings in audience
with Lord Shiva, querying him on the origin of the nine auspicious gems.
We are only a shadow of what she does, Rolf says.
The king and queen of Thailand dont, of course, have to contend with
budgets. From a business perspective, Lotus Arts de Vivres decision to
extend the brand into furniture and interiors is both a creative and financial
logical next step.
Post 9/11, people didnt want to travel and started buying more for their
homes. We focused in on two collections jewelry and home dcor and
this is the evolution of that, says Nicki von Bueren, glancing at the vast
array of objects that have emerged from the workshop in record time.
The next, next step, of course, is global expansion. Rolf says Lotus Arts
de Vivre is on the brink of finalizing franchise agreements with partners in
Dubai, India and Russia. He hopes to ink a maximum of six to eight such
deals in the near future. Were looking for people with a passion for the
business, people who have buying power, self-confidence and taste, Rolf
says. The focus is on markets where minimalism is not the accepted
norm. Youve got to afford to be exuberant in life.
Home improvement Lotus Arts de Vivres open house marked the companys first effort
to attract interior designers and hoteliers. These elephant candle holders made of liana
wood, fantasy dining table covered in fine gold leaf, iron wood boar featuring a genuine skull,
and seed pearl earrings were among the hundreds of objects on display. Chairman Rolf
von Bueren hopes the expanding collection will lure like-minded franchise partners to the
brand, to help bring its elegant, Asian-inspired vision to emerging markets in the future.
COUTURE PRACTICES
HAZOORILAL, DELHI
Geoffrey Good, 16
Georg Spreng, 14, 15
GIA, 59
Gianna, 11
Giannini, 11
Gioielleria Nardi, 23
GlamRock, 27
Gumuchian, 15, 16
Gurhan, 15, 20
Hearts On Fire, 18
Helena de Natalio, 14, 16, 24
Hellmuth, 11
Herbstrith, 19
HKTDC Fair, 65
Hubris and Homefries, 26
Iberjoya Fair, 71
IDI, 48-49
Intercolor USA, 60-61
Irene Neuwirth, 16
J, K, L
J.R. de Bellard Fine
Jewelry, 19
JA NY Fair, 77
Jada Loveless, 8, 19
Jeanne Johngren Design,
11, 13, 18
K. Brunini Jewels, 22, 24
Kabiri, 8, 72
Karat Platinum, 30, 32
Kathy Rose, 24
Kazanjian by Patrick M, 13
Kiara, 14
Kompass Diamond, 57
Kwiat, 78
La Nouvelle Bague, 10
Lanvin, 28, 72
Lata K Designs, 13
Lena Sklyut Couture, 13,
15, 24, 70
Lisa Cotten, 26
Lobortas & Karpova, 22, 70
Lotus Arts de Vivre, 22,
24, 74-75
Lydia Courteille, 9, 26
M, N
M&L Jewelry, 70
Man Ray, 64
Manuel Bozzi, 24
Manuel Vilhena, 16
Marc Jacobs, 42, 58
Marcin Zaremski, 16
Marco Bicego, 14
Martha OBrien, 18
Mikimoto, 14
Miu Miu, 29
Moissanite, 10
Narciso Rodriguez, 43
Niessing, 10
Nina Runsdorf, 11, 23
Ninetto Terzano, 12
O, P
ONG Jewelry Design, 68
Oroarezzo Fair, CIII
Palmiero, CIV
Paul Insect, 64
Paula Crevoshay, 13, 15, 22
Perry Gargano, 18
Phillip Lim, 43, 58
Picchiotti, 5, 9
Podicko, 17
Prinn Collection, 68
R
Rafinity, 10
Recarlo, 31
Richard Wise, 38
Rio Tinto, 74
Robert Wan, 18
Roberto Coin, 22, 32, 44, 68
Ronald Abram, 24
Rosy Blue, 45, 57
S
Schoeffel, 23, 24
Shana London, 9, 15
Sieger, 10, 14, 19
Slane & Slane, 20
Sonja Picard, 20
Staurino Fratelli, 19
Stephen Webster, 13, 14,
20, 22, 23
Style LA Swim and Resort
Wear Show, 8, 11-12, 16,
19, 23-24, 26
Supreme Jewelry, 22
Suzanne Syz, 16
Swarovski, 34-39
T, U
Tamara Comolli, 8
Tamir, 9, 12, 13, 16
Tanzanite Foundation, 60-61
Tara & Sons, 26
The Fifth Season, 3, 19
Twist, 32
Unicorn, 33
V, W, Y, Z
Valente Milano, 26, 44-45
Vera Wang, 42, 72
Viren Bhagat, 32
Waldman Diamonds, 10
Wendell Castle, 64
Yael Sonia, 9, 14
Yves Saint Laurent, 72
Zac Posen, 58
Zeira, 9, 19, 26
Zydo, 15
The JA New York jewelry shows provide you with networking opportunities
and showcase the worlds best jewelry designers and manufacturers.
The Shows are located in New York City, an outstanding and convenient
international locale in the jewelry capital of the world.
INTERESTED IN EXHIBITING?
Contact Drew Lawsky at 646.654.4983 Drew.Lawsky@nielsen.com
SPONSORED BY:
COUTURE
EUROPA STAR
PRODUCED BY:
PRESENTED BY:
U
COUTURE PRACTICES
KWIAT, NEW YORK
Guiding light
The new Kwiat flagship boutique translates the feel of its diamond jewelry into a retail setting
or a jewelry firm like Kwiat, its all about sparkle.
Diamonds have been the Kwiat familys stock in trade
since 1908, so when the idea of opening a flagship
boutique on Manhattans Madison Avenue presented itself
two years ago, there was no question as to what mattered
most in the design scheme.
Diamonds are all about light, about the way they make light
dance, says Greg Kwiat, chief financial officer. We wanted a
wall treatment that had a similar optical effect. The silver leaf
wall coverings play with the light. In general, you want the color
scheme to be light, because you dont want the surrounding
environment to darken up the store and the stones.
The 800-square-foot boutique the company chose opened
in September with a launch event hosted by Academy
Award winner Jennifer Hudson. It is a warm, inviting space
decked out in a color palette of grays, creams and light
blues. The champagne-colored walls, featuring a textured
pattern of cut horizontal lines, do precisely what Kwiat
intended: They scatter light throughout the salon, whose most
striking feature is a grand atrium with soaring, 18-foot ceilings.
The interior design details, including dramatic sconces,
accessories covered in gray shagreen and tiny pin-dots on the
glass case borders, which invite customers to take a closer
look, lend the space a modern Deco charm. It goes without
saying that the Kwiat jewelry collection, a love letter to timeless, elegant design, contributes much to the overall vibe.
The Kwiat aesthetic is classic, Kwiat says. We wanted
the environment to feel comfortable, much like we want our
jewelry to feel wearable, and for the space to feel warm,
modern and contemporary.
Mailing address:
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Sales Manager/International/EMEA
Caitlin Hume caitlin.hume@nielsen.com TEL +44.207.420.6150
Sales Manager/Italy Alessandra Arati aarati@studioarati.it TEL +39.024.851.7853
Sales Manager/Spain Jose Maria Sapena, Grup Star Barcelona europastarspain@gmail.com
Sales Manager/Asia Maggie Tong maggietong@couturejeweler.com TEL +852. 9658.1830
Sales Manager/India Bhupal Potdar bhupal.potdar@media-scope.com TEL +91.98211.51035
Advertising & Production Manager
Laurence Chatenoud lchatenoud@couturejeweler.com
TEL +41.22.307.7843 FAX +41.22.300.3748
Marketing Manager Nathalie Glattfelder nglattfelder@europastar.com
Circulation Jocelyne Bailly jbailly@europastar.com
Subscriptions Subscriptions, address changes and single-copy requests:
COUTURE International Jeweler, Rte des Acacias 25, CH-1227 Geneva, Switzerland
TEL +41.22.307.7837 FAX +41 22.300.3748 jricher@europastar.com
Accounting
Business Manager Catherine Giloux TEL +41 22.307.7848 cgiloux@europastar.com
Credit Manager Alexandra Montandon TEL +41 22.307.7847 amontandon@europastar.com
International Headquarters
COUTURE International Jeweler, Rte des Acacias 25, PO Box 1355, CH-1211 Geneva 26, Switzerland
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PRODUCT CATEGORY.........................................................................
BRAND(S)..................................................................................................
COUNTRY YOU BUY FROM OR SELL TO.....................................
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EXIBITION(S)............................................................................................
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US$ 100
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Printed in Geneva by SRO-KUNDIG
Copyright 2008 by COUTURE Interntional Jeweler
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without the written permission of COUTURE International Jeweler
FREELY SPEAKING
DR. G. CLOTAIRE RAPAILLE
CIJ: How so? CR: Take, for example, airports. New York
Kennedy, Atlanta? Terrible. Dubai? The new Hong Kong airport?
Fantastic. How am I going to judge New Yorks airport? Ill
compare it to Dubai and the Emirates airline. People are still
selling business class without flat beds. Forget it.
CIJ: What about luxury centers in established markets? CR:
Where do you want to open a store? In New York, where
youre not going to make a profit and youll pay a lot of taxes?
Or in Dubai, where theres no tax and growth is about 20 to
30 percent? What is the rationale for not going there?