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Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Berlin
June - July 2016

Maya culture
Gropius-Bau exhibition

Life is a cabaret
Sally’s back in Berlin

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Contents

Transport 5
Getting around by S&U

Basics 6
Essential travel tips

Sports in Berlin 8
All about Berlin’s top teams

Galleries & Exhibitions 10


Art special

Culture & Events 11


Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema

Berlin Mitte 19
The delights of the city centre
© Niserin | Dreamstime.com
Berlin Charlottenburg & The West 32
Genteel western Berlin
Berlin Friedrichshain 41
Worker’s paradise, student’s playground
SYMBOL KEY Berlin Prenzlauer Berg 44
The gentrified north
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery E Live music Berlin Kreuzberg 48
N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room City Tours 57
S Take away R Internet Guided walks, bike rides and drives
W Wi-Fi
River Tours 59
Additional symbols for hotels
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Directory & Street register 60

L Guarded parking H Conference facilities Maps & Index


F Fitness centre K Restaurant City map 61-63
Public transport map 64-65
D Sauna C Swimming pool
Index 66
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café
and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price
level based on a main course with a glass of wine. BERLIN BOXES
€€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person.
Scattered throughout the guide you’ll find boxes with
€€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person. more information about these topics:
€€ Middling; from €10-20 per person.
Erasmus Student Network 6
€ Cheap; less than €10 per person. West Berlin Revival 37

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 3


Foreword
Willkommen, bienvenue, welcome! The conférencier of
Publisher
the Kit Kat Club ushers the audience to their seats in this In Your Pocket GmbH
summer’s rendition of the slightly naughty hit musical Axel-Springer-Straße 39
Cabaret starring the legendary Sally Bowles, running 10969 Berlin
from mid-July to early September at Tipi am Kanzleramt; Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
see p.18. We’d also like to point out the excellent new Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
germany@inyourpocket.com
exhibition on Maya culture at the Gropius-Bau, which has www.inyourpocket.com
hundreds of unique artefacts on show – and while you’re
ISSN 1611-9037
there don’t miss the last weeks of the fabulous Lee Miller
photography exhibition. Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly
But in summer Berlin is all about being outside and enjoying The public transport map is used under license no. BVG‑0079.11.
the relaxed vibe. Take a random stroll in the districts of
Editorial
Kreuzberg, Friedrichshain, Prenzlauer Berg or Schöneberg Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krüger, Christina Knight
to soak up the atmosphere and better understand why Research Cecilia Engvall; Layout Tomáš Haman
Berlin is such a special place. Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)
Maps Kartographie Eichner
Whatever you do this summer, remember to go sit in a park Cover © Markwaters | Dreamstime.com
at some point - and let us know your tips and comments at Sales & Circulation
berlin@inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Berlin. General Manager Stephan Krämer
Production Manager Philippe Krüger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
Advertising Managers Philippe Krüger,
COVER STORY CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de)

The Schlossbrücke bridge next Copyright notice & Editor’s note


Text, photos and maps (unless otherwise stated)
to the Historical Museum is copyright In Your Pocket GmbH. All rights reserved. No
crossed but overlooked by many part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
visitors - have a closer look, without written permission from the copyright owner.
because it is richly decorated The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from
with eight mythological scenes UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
involving Greek heroes and tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
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stone railings. responsibility for changes and errors.

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4 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Transport
Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke
empty vastness of northeast Germany, it’s very well tarriff; €4 for 2km. By the way, Funk means radio.
connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn
and air. Once in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.
such good public transport. FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.taxifunkberlin.de.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.
Berlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn, WBT FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run www.funk-taxi-berlin.de.
by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional WÜRFEL-FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 01 01,
commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just www.wuerfelfunk.de.
remember the number or colour and end station of the line
you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like
stations like a local. CYCLING
Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes As long as it’s dry, getting around Berlin is really best done
during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at by bicycle. It’s a flat city, there are plenty of cycle paths and
night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights, wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more
with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note
from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights. that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you
Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train fined, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town
services. Vending machines have instructions in English may take a while, though for €1,60 you can take your bike
and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental
AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need places, most charging €10-12 per day. The urban bike
an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport. trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-traffic and
With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,70, ABC €3,30) cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.
you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited
transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier-Fahrten-
Karte, €9). Buy a €1,70 Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if
CITY CARDS
you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning
stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get to travel around town a lot and see more than one
the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning; museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students
€7,00) or the seven-day pass (€30,00). Groups of up to five and youths may get better reductions at museums
people are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day using their student ID cards.
ticket, €17,30). The multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (€19,50-
42,00) is valid for transport and some attractions. BERLIN WELCOMECARD
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and
ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours,
the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes
are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and Potsdam and Schönefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48
there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes hours (AB €19,50, ABC €21,50), 72 hours (€27,50/29,50),
inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll and 4 (€31,50/34,50), 5 (€35,50/40,50) or 6 days
be fined €60 on the spot. (€41,50/45,50). There’s also a 72-hour variety (€42/44)
that includes free admission to the five Museumsinsel
BVG museums. Cards are sold online and from BVG ticket
The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels and kiosks.
trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at http:// The similar Berlin CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.com)
www.bvg.de/en/Service.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, info@bvg. is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club discounts
de, www.bvg.de/en. geared towards younger travellers; a 48-hour ticket costs
€17,50 for AB, €19,50 for ABC, and there are also 72 hours,
TAXIS 4, 5, and 6-day tickets.Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
Berlin’s friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be MUSEUM PASS BERLIN
called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing 50 museums, including the permanent collections of
at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis the Staatliche Museen (state museums), can be visited
accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same with the Berlin Museum Pass (€24/12, valid three days).
day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre is €3,40; then up It’s for sale at the museums, tourism offices and online.
to 7km it’s €1,79/km, thereafter €1,28/km. Waiting costs €25/ Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 5
Basics
BASIC DATA
Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725
Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km.
The Spree is 403km.
Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m
Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m
Highest natural point of Berlin:
Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m
Berlin’s territory: 900 square kilometers

DRINKS & ALCOHOL


Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita MONEY
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately Germany uses the euro (€). Banknotes come in denom-
Berlin’s local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weiße, is only real- inations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins,
ly palatable ‘mit Schuss’, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cock- whose design depends on in which country they were
tails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped cents and €1 and €2. Credit and debit card payment is
in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife
and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (‘kloob mah-tea’) ice tea, venues, though always have cash on you for small payments
made with extract of the South American maté plant, caffeine just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept
and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge
a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process.
just below the top label and top it up with wodka). Exchange offices can be found at the major train stations.

CRIME & SAFETY VISAS AND ENTRY


Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty FORMALITIES
crimes are low compared to other Western European cap- EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though
itals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your registration at a Bürgeramt office is officially required for stays
valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong
unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walk- Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few
ing in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90
occur in Berlin’s touristed central areas. days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply
for a German visa in advance. Note that there’s no passport
control between Germany and the other 14 European ‘Schen-
ELECTRICITY gen’ countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via stand- Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at
ard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can
bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website
many hotels will have them at the front desk too. for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.

ERASMUS STUDENT CLIMATE


NETWORK
30 80

How do international students get to meet locals 25 70


and the city during an academic exchange? The 60
20
best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network
Temperature °C

Rainfall (mm)

50
(ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student 15
40
associations in Europe. It was developed to help 10
internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present 30
in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36 5
20
countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section 0 10
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for
-5 0
you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or
Rainfall (mm) Min Temp (°C) Max Temp (°C)
www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.

6 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Berlin Districts
Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the
city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, you’re still
left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners
often find everything they need. Public transportation is
far-reaching and effective though, and you’ll grow to love it
as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights:
Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg.

MITTE (MI)
Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title
of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the
boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich
once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments
to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State
Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the
German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum
Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German
Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The
architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel,
whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got
© dreamstime.com
interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. It’s on these
streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it
to sidewalk café, pointing out directions to tourists seeking was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987
out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community social and economic frustration exploded into violence and
that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations
deportations of the Nazi era. of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long
night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May
1st is essentially Kreuzberg’s way of reliving its 15 minutes
CHARLOTTENBURG (CB) of fame. The rest of the days are marked by backgammon
If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets, at the men’s clubs, café-sitting on the Landwehrkanal,
crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then and ambling down the popular drags Oranienstr.
Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin. Much and Bergmannstr. Two major museums, the House at
of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum, are planted in
1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufürstendamm, the staid parts of the district.
Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come
together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken
ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting PRENZLAUER BERG (PB)
becomes more genteel where you can’t see the buildings for On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old
the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss working-class district in the former East Berlin that came
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to
soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and
along Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.).
TIERGARTEN (TG) Prenzlauer Berg’s few attractions include the Vitra Design
Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare museum and a 19th-century brewery complex that is now
park that began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the Kulturbrauerei culture centre. A good time to visit is
the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with Saturday when the eco-market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or
landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a Sunday when everyone sits outside being cool and eating
dosey-doe around the Siegessäule (Victory Column). Slicing breakfast all day.
though the park’s length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to
the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are
the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl. FURTHER AFIELD
Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife
scene are Schöneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and
KREUZBERG (KB) Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after
anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald
didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of
was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off Zehlendorf (ZD).
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 7
Sports in Berlin
Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports Tor will bring back memories of the parties there during
– the city has no less than six professional sports teams the World Cup in 2006. But it’s much less commercial
(listed below), though there are no home matches until and more fun to watch at any of the hundreds of late-
autumn. The main event this summer however, from night shops across the city which will arrange benches
mid-June to mid July, is the Uefa Euro2016 football cup. outside and positions screens for all to use. With more
The locals have high hopes for Germany and the main countries than ever participating (24, in 51 matches) it’s
festival area with free screenings by the Brandenburger an event not to be missed.

ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL) FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)


Also known as the Albatrosse, Nicknamed Eisern Union
Berlin’s basketball club is (iron union), FC Union is the
Germany’s most successful, and working man’s football team
has the largest fanbase; home for Berlin, originating in East
matches easily attract 10,000 Berlin in 1966 and a feared counterpart for the GDR’s
spectators. Since going pro in state-influenced Dynamo club. Union is still fiercely
1991, Alba has won the German independent, based in their charming An der Alten
League 8 times and the German Cup 7 times, and was Försterei stadium. The club has resisted all commercialism,
also the first German team to win an international title. with a club anthem sung by punkrock legend Nina
Alba started the season well but badly missed Reggie Hagen, and a stadium partly owned by passionate fans.
Redding and Clifford Hammonds, leading them to exit Union finished 6th in a well-balanced 2nd Bundesliga
the playoffs early.QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes- and they may get an even better placement next year.
Benz-Arena), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten
Straße, tel. +49 1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Försterei), Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656 68
Tickets €8-65. 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets €14-43.

BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL) FÜCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)


Berlin’s professional volleyball “The foxes’, Berlin’s handball team,
team originates in the western is part of an old West Berlin sports
district of Charlottenburg, but club, and now plays home matches
plays home matches at the in Prenzlauer Berg’s Max-Schmeling-
Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR Volleys Halle, named after the boxing
have been particularly successful since the late 1990s, legend who was world champion
winning the German Bundesliga title five times. They heavyweight between 1930-32.
won everything they could win this season: the German The Füchse had a solid season but unfortunately Jesper
competition, DVV-Cup and the European Cup - and set a Nielsen, one of their best players, will leave.QG‑1, Am
record for the number of spectators.QAm Falkplatz (Max- Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg,
Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 30 44 30,
12, www.berlin-recycling-volleys.de. Tickets €13-16. www.fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets €12-50.

EISBÄREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY) HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)


Originating in 1953 in East Germany’s Berlin’s main football team
Dynamo sports club, the ‘polar bears’ plays home matches at the
is Berlin’s popular professional ice impressive Olympiastadion,
hockey team. They won the national Germany’s second largest stadium, built for the 1936
Deutsche Eishockey Liga 7 times, Olympic Games and renovated for the 2006 World
more than any other team, and also Cup. Hertha was founded back in 1892 and is know as
bagged the European Trophy in the ‘Alte Dame’, the old lady, witnessing its glory years
2010. Their home matches at the Mercedes-Benz-Arena between 1926 and 1931 when it reached the German
are true familyfests, with a festive, good-humoured Championship finals 6 times, winning it twice. New
atmosphere. The season started very well, but they coach Pal Dardai somewhat turned the team’s fortunes
exited early in a heartbreaking loss against Cologne. Barry around and Hertha played a great season with a bitter
Tallackson, the most solid player, will return next season. ending - but they’ll go international next year in the
QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena), EuroLeague.QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion),
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 Charlottenburg, MS Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805
97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets €18-46. 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets €15-89.

8 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Golf in Berlin
With endless forests, lakes and pretty countryside in all
directions, Berlin and the surrounding state of Brandenburg GOLF IN WALL
offer plenty of opportunities to get out of the city and play
some golf in a calm green setting. The “gentleman’s game”
has evolved a lot since the early days, and now is popular
with people from all walks of life. The fall of the Berlin Wall
25 years ago helped open up many new locations to play
the sport outside of the city. Here we list the main courses
in and around Berlin.

GOLF COURSES
The following golf courses all have driving ranges and
practice facilities; many of them offer Early Bird and Twilight
rates too. The reviews list the type of courses, the driving
time from central Berlin, and the greenfee for weekdays/ All golfers are welcome to enjoy the wide fairways at
weekends respectively, and mention when you can book Wall, a calm village north of Berlin. The 18-hole course
online. is suitable for players of all levels, and beginners can
perfect their swing on the 9-hole practise course.
BERLINER GOLF- UND COUNTRY CLUB Situated in the pretty Brandenburger Rhinluchs area
MOTZENER SEE and near to a nature reserve, there’s even chance of
18 & 9-holes, 40mins, €68/85.QAm Golfplatz spotting rare birds as you play. 55mins from Berlin
5, Mittenwalde, tel. +49 33 76 95 01 30, www. Mitte; €31, weekends €45.QAm Königsgraben 1,
golfclubmotzen.de. Wall, tel. +49 33 92 57 11 35, www.golfinwall.de.

GOLF & SPA RESORT SCHLOSS WILKENDORF


2x18-holes, 6-hole practise, 55mins, €60/58, online GOLF SHOPS
booking.QAm Weiher 1, Altlandsberg, tel. +49 3341 33 GOLF BERLIN MITTE
09 60, www.resort-schloss-wilkendorf.com. Large golf shop in the city centre, near Checkpoint Charlie.
QMarkgrafenstr. 58, Mitte, tel. +49 30 28 04 70 70,
GOLFCLUB KALLIN www.golf-berlin-mitte.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
18 & 9-holes, 50mins, €50/70, online booking.QAm Kallin - 18:00. Closed Sun.
1, Nauen OT Börnicke, tel. +49 332 30 89 40, www.golf-
kallin.de. HOHMANN GOLF
Wide range of golfing equipment and sportswear.
GOLF CLUB PANKOW BERLIN QFranklinstr. 12a-13, tel. +49 30 39 88 72 20, www.
18 & 9-holes and 6 practice holes, 22mins, €46/58. hohmann-golf.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00.
QBlankenburger Pflasterweg 40, tel. +49 30 50 01 94 Closed Sun.
90, www.golf-pankow.de.
BERLINER GOLF CLUB GATOW
GOLFCLUB PRENDEN
18 & 9-holes, 50mins, €45/55.QWaldweg 3, Wandlitz, tel.
+49 333 96 77 90, www.golfplatz-prenden.de.

GOLFCLUB STOLPERHEIDE
2x18 holes, 6 practice holes, 30mins, €50/90, online
booking.QAm Golfplatz 1, Hohen Neuendorf, tel. +49
3303 54 92 14, www.golfclub-stolperheide.de.

GOLF- UND LAND-CLUB BERLIN-WANNSEE


18 & 9-holes, 30mins, €120/100; weekends only with a One of the oldest clubs in Germany, the “British Golf
member.QGolfweg 22, tel. +49 30 806 70 60, www. Club Gatow” was founded in 1969, linked at the time
wannsee.de. to the Allied Forces, and independent after their
retreat in 1994. The course was expanded from 9 to
SPORTING CLUB BERLIN SCHARMÜTZELSEE 18 holes in 2001 to make it viable for the future. 18
3x18-holes, 60mins, €45/80, online booking.QParkallee holes and 6 practise holes, 35mins, €60/80, online
3, Bad Saarow, tel. +49 3363 16 33 00, www.sporting- booking.QSparnecker Weg 100, tel. +49 30 365 00
club-berlin.de. 06, www.golfclubgatow.de.

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 9


Galleries & Exhibitions

Graffiti on Berlin’s East Side Gallery

Berlin’s museum and gallery world is constantly in flux, and SLOW PHOTOGRAPHY BERLIN
perhaps now more than ever. Several large museums are Ukrainian artist Oleg Farynyuk photographs subjects
closed for lengthy renovations that will last until the end of the using old techniques, especially the wetplate method
decade, and the contemporary art scene is on the move, with which was invented in 1851 and was the first time photos
artists fleeing the rising rents in the Mitte district for atelier space could be shot with short exposure times. At the gallery
in outlying districts and galleries regrouping in new cultural and shop you can view the resulting high-quality photos,
nodes like Potsdamer Strasse. On this page we highlight a few and have one made.
of Berlin’s many excellent galleries and exhibitions. QSlow Photography Berlin, Christinenstr. 15, tel. +49
152 17 55 00 74, www.slow-photography-berlin.com.
BERLINISCHE GALERIE
After lengthy renovations, the Berlinische Galerie recently SAMMLUNG BOROS
reopened, exhibiting the city’s excellent collection of local A former bunker holds the private art gallery of
art from 1880-1980. Until 24 August there’s an exhibition of advertising executive Christian Boros and his wife, who
remarkable works by painter Bernhard Martin (1966); this live on top of the absurd structure. It’s full of wonderful
artist from Hannover paints extravagant pictorial narratives contemporary art, including a tree by Ai Wei Wei and
which always seeks visual resources appropriate to the a runaway popcorn machine that is slowly filling up a
theme, often alluding to artists of the past. room. Tours only, book well in advance.
QAlte Jakobstraße 124-128, tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00, QReinhardstraße 20, tel. +49 30 27 59 40 65,
www.berlinischegalerie.de. www.sammlung-boros.de.

C/O BERLIN KÖNIG GALERIE, ST. AGNES


Recently rehoused in the historical Amerika-Haus near A strikingly brutalist 1967 church in Kreuzberg has been
Zoologischer Garten, the C/O gallery presents changing transformed into a modern art gallery for Johann König,
exhibitions of fantastic photography. The current 'Genesis' the bare concrete walls forming the perfect background for
exhibition of striking nature photos by Sebastião Salgado is though-provoking art.
not to be missed. QSt Agnes, Alexandrinenstraße 118-121, tel. +49 30 26
QHardenbergstr. 22-24, tel. +49 30 284 44 16 62, 10 30 80, www.johannkoenig.de.
www.co-berlin.org.
10 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays
and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets at the venue.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU
- and an annual cultural budget of over €900 million to Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.
fund it all. Sports lovers can choose from a wide variety of de. Tickets €10-99.
matches played year-round.
STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER
The venue for Daniel Barenboim’s award-winning
OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on
West Berlin’s 1960s opera building with its excellent Unter den Linden are completed.QC‑3, Bismarckstraße
acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances. 110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30
Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB‑3, 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets €14-220.
Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche
Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.
de. Tickets from €16. SHOWS
ADMIRALSPALAST
KOMISCHE OPER This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret,
Starting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlin’s roaring 20s.
building’s monumental neo-baroque main hall survived Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private
wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic box so that he could watch his favourite operetta ‘The
music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English Merry Widow’, and Brecht tried out his new theatre here
are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF‑3, from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on plays,
Behrenstraße 55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 concerts and musicals.QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte,
30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets €9-150. MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.
admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets €21-79.
KONZERTHAUS BERLIN
Together with the Deutscher and Französischer Dom BERLIN RESIDENCE CONCERTS
churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacular The Berlin Residence Orchestra consists of well-known
architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821, musicians, who interpret baroque and classic opera with a
it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a keen sense of the compositions from that era. The result
is an extraordinary concert event, with musical highlights
presented true to the original style and aristocratic sound.
EVENT TICKETS Guests can combine the concert with a tour of Charlotten-
burg castle, and a dinner amidst hundreds of candles.QB‑3,
Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel Spandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS Westend,
concierges, at ticket offices (also in major department tel. +49 30 25 810 350, www.residenzkonzerte.berlin.
stores) and online. Dinner 18:00, concert 20:00. Tickets €29-127.
EVENTIM An online booking service with event
BLUE MAN GROUP
tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49
The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing
180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.
audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and
HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as it has little
printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets spoken German, and now has been thoroughly revamped,
for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also with many new sketches and elements.QE‑4, Marlene
at Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 13, Mitte.QC‑4, Harden- Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49
bergstraße 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologis- 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows Tue, Fri 21:00;
cher Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket. Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets from €69.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
KOKA 36 Kreuzberg’s Konzertkasse has tickets in their
shop and online (German only), for mailing and pick- ASK THE CONCIERGE
up.QH‑4, Oranienstraße 29, Kreuzberg, MU Gör-
litzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36. Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there
de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you
about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-lan- Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can
guage service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs. be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels
papagena.de. of their jackets.

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 11


Culture & Events
FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST
VENUE LIST BERLIN No one does over-the-top better than the producers and
long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast.
AN - ALTE NATIONALGALERIE, Bodestraße 1-3, This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. revues in town.QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 107, Mitte, MU
CT – COLUMBIA THEATER, Columbiadamm 9-11, Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.show-
tel. +49 30 69 81 75 84, www.columbia-theater.de. palace.eu. Tickets €18-106.

HX – HUXLEY’S NEUE WELT, Hasenheide 108-114, HINTERM HORIZONT


tel. +49 30 627 93 20, www.huxleysneuewelt.com. The musical based on the songs of German rock legend
Udo Lindenberg is a hit with the locals, and using the free
KH – KONZERTHAUS BERLIN, Gendarmenmarkt, portable translator device (book in advance), international
tel. +49 30 20 30 90, www.konzerthaus.de. visitors can follow the spoken scenes too. ‘Behind the
MG – MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, horizon’ is an East-West love story set in Berlin: a West
Niederkirchnerstraße 7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, German rock singer falls for an East Berlin beauty, who spies
www.gropiusbau.de. on him for the Stasi in order to save her brother. Years later, in
a reunited Germany, they piece together their history.QE‑4,
OS – OLYMPIASTADION, Olympischer Platz 3, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 (Stage Theater am Potsdamer
tel. +49 30 688100, www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Platz), MPotsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44,
www.stage-entertainment.de. Shows 19:00, Fri 20:00,
PH – PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße Sat 15:30, 20:00, Sun 14:30. Mon closed. Tickets €38-97.
1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.
TD – TEMPODROM, Möckernstraße 10, TIPI AM KANZLERAMT
tel. +49 30 69 53 38 85, www.tempodrom.de. Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in Berlin,
the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for an evening
WB – WALDBÜHNE, Glockenturmstraße 1, in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten park. Before
www.waldbuehne-berlin.de. the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then it’s over to
the artists featured that night to entertain the audience.
ZS – ZITADELLE SPANDAU, Am Juliusturm 64,
QE‑3, Große Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag,
tel. +49 30 354 94 40, www.zitadelle-spandau.de.
tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de.
Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00. Mon closed. Tickets €20-55.

WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉ
One of Berlin’s famed variety theatres was revived here as a
THE GATE MULTIMEDIA dinner theater. Seated around tables, you’ll enjoy a show with
SHOW acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more. Before the
show, waiters take orders for meals which are served during
the break. New shows are put on several times per year.QE‑4,
Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße,
tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows
Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun 18:00. Tickets €37,20-70,20.

THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE


Berlin has dozens of venues for performances. There’s lots
of great theatre, but most of it is German-language; it’s get-
THE GATE ting better, with English plays or surtitles in some theatres.
The newest multimedia experience in Berlin is The Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for
Gate, a 360-degree audio and video spectacle showing shows by Sasha Waltz, perhaps the best choreographer
Berlin’s darkest and greatest moments, and introducing around. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic dance
legendary characters in a 20-minute trip through company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.tanzraumberlin.
the city’s moving history, with a special focus on the de), available at the venues, lists all dance events.
neighbouring Brandenburger Tor city gate. The show
is suitable for all languages, and there’s a shop and ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN
café with views of the gate.QPariser Platz 4a, Mitte, Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or not,
tel. +49 30 236 07 83 66, www.thegate-berlin.de. come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the
Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6, cheaper when little black box’s stage.QF‑5, Fidicinstraße 40, Kreuzberg,
booked online. MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 691 12 11, tickets@
etberlin.de, www.etberlin.de. Tickets €14-18.
12 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
HALLE TANZBÜHNE
A monumental school gym, used for excellent modern CINEMAS
dance productions by the Toula Limnaios company.
QG‑1, Eberswalder Straße 10-11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often
Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 44 04 42 92, www.halle- dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or
tanz-berlin.de. Tickets €15. look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled
films; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU
KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUB (original version with German/English subtitles) and
Laughing matters at this comedy club, which has OF or OV (original version); DF means German version.
alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights
every month: Kim Eustace on the first Tuesday, and the ADRIA
interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth The film Berlin, wie es war, black and white footage of
Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaie’s show “How to become old Berlin, in German, screens every Sunday at 11:30.
a Berliner in one hour”.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 184, QSchloßstraße 48, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 tel. +49 180 505 07 11, www.cineplex.de. Tickets
30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets €5-16. €7,40-9,40.
Shows Tue-Sun.
BABYLON MITTE
QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB A 1920s filmhouse with a great program, but beware
“Quatsch” is the delicious German word for nonsense, of dubbed films. The building itself is a example of New
and there’s plenty of it in the shows held in the Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent
Friedrichstadtpalast theatre basement. Most are in German, films accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG‑2, Rosa-
but look out for special guests and the regular English- Luxemburg-Straße 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-
language “Strictly Stand Up” nights. Drinks and snacks like Platz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de.
nachos and hot dogs are available.QF‑3, Friedrichstr. Tickets €7.
107, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00
09 69, www.quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets €25-35. CENTRAL KINO
Shows Thu-Sun. Art-house films and mini film fests take place in this
small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a scruffy
SCHAUBÜHNE courtyard.QG‑2, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS
Set inside a quirky former 1920s cinema, the politically and Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73, www.
socially engaged repertoire of this venerable ensemble kino-central.de. Tickets €6,50, Tue, Wed €5,50.
theatre ranges from classics to contemporary plays,
and regularly travels abroad, giving famed directors like CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL
Thomas Ostermeier, Falk Richter and Katie Mitchell and CineStar IMAX has blockbuster films and documentaries
actors like Lars Eidinger and Nina Hoss the chance to shine in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX
abroad. Every month, several shows have English and/or quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original
French surtitles. There’s a good theatre café with drinks cinema has Germany’s widest range of Hollywood
and simple meals too.QB‑4, Kurfürstendamm 153, and arthouse movies in their original English version.
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00 QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center),
23, www.schaubuehne.de. Tickets €7-47. MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00,
www.cinestar.de. Tickets €6-13.

HACKESCHE HÖFE
FILM FESTIVALS Mainly shows foreign films in their original language.
QG‑2, Rosenthaler Straße 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Apart from the huge Berlinale film festival in February, Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe.
Berlin has over 40 smaller international film festivals org. Tickets €8; Mon, Tue €6,50.
throughout the year, often focused on a country or
theme. SPUTNIK
Berlin’s highest cinema screens a lot of indie films,
Film festivals in June-July 2016: many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In
4-19 June: Jewish Film Festival, www.jffb.de a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a
1-3 July: 48 Hour Film Project, various locations, bit dicey working your way to the theater, but it’s
48hourfilm.com/en/berlin safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the
2-3 June: Fashion Film Festival, Alte Teppichfabrik, furniture.QG‑5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU
berlinfashionfilmfestival.net Südstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino.
July: Entzaubert, Queer Wagenplatz Kanal, entzaubert. com. Tickets €5-6,5.
blogsport.de

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 13


Culture & Events
DEUTSCHE OPER
Berlin’s famous Deutsche Oper orchestra moves back
into its home theatre after extensive renovations this
winter. All the more reason to visit and watch one
of their performances. Several shows have English-
language subtitles so visitors can follow the action; see
the website for details. The highlights of Berlin’s famous
Deutsche Oper orchestra this season are:
3 June: The Magic Flute, Mozart
5,8,11,16 June: The Troubadour, Verdi
5,12,18 June: Tristan and Isolde, Wagner
9,15 June: Tosca, Puccini
10,19 June: Jewels, Fauré, Stravinsky & Tchaikovsky
17,22,25,28 June: The Abduction from the Seraglio,
Mozart
21,29 June: The Sleeping Beauty, Tchaikovsky
26 June: Elektra, Strauss
27 June: Symphony Concert, Haydn, Strauss, Mozart
30 June: Rigoletto, Verdi
1,6 July: The Abduction from the Seraglio, Mozart
2,7 July: Carmen, Bizet
3,5,9 July: The Sleeping Beauty, Tchaikovsky
8 July: The Magic Flute, Mozart

DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN, Bismarckstraße 35, tel.


+49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

CLASSICAL MUSIC
5 June, 15:00 PH
Staatskapelle Berlin, Martha Argerich (piano)
Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Beethoven and
Mozart

7 June, 20:00 PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Isabelle
Faust (violin)

13.07. – 04.09.
Conductor: Sir Roger Norrington; Works by Haydn, Mozart
and Williams

8-10 June, 20:00 PH


Between Kanzleramt and Haus der Kulturen der Welt Berliner Philharmoniker, Krystian Zimerman
Bus 100: Platz der Republik
S-Bahn: Hbf, Brandenburger Tor
(piano)
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Anderson,
Beethoven, Dvorak and Elgar

11 June, 20:00 KH
Konzerthausorchester Berlin
Conductor: Dimitrij Kitajenko; Works by Milhaud,
Mussorgsky and Prokofiev

12 June, 20:00 PH
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Frank Peter
Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 Zimmermann (violin)
www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Rachmaninov and
Tchaikovsky
14 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
A Taste of
Salvation?

Stan Hema; Photography © Julian Röder

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Die Entführung aus dem Serail [ quote ]


Conductor: Donald Runnicles; Director: Rodrigo García
from 17 June 2016
Julian Röder, The Summits, Thessaloniki, 2003 [ photo ]

Tickets and Information: +49 [30]-343 84 343; www.deutscheoperberlin.de


Culture & Events
13 June, 20:00 PH
S U I TA B L E F O R I N T E R N AT I O N A L V I S I TO R S Yuja Wang (piano)
Works by Beethoven and Prokofiev

16 & 17 June, 20:00 PH


Berliner Philharmoniker, Emanuel Ax (piano)
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Debussy, Franck,
Grainger, Jolas and Ravel

SUMMER SPECIAL 25 & 26 June, 20:00


Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
PH

Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Berlioz

27 June, 20:00 PH
Staatskapelle Berlin, Sir Andras Schiff (piano)
Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Bartok, Beethoven
and Widmann

1 July, 20:00 KH
Konzerthausorchester Berlin
Conductor: Simone Young; Works by Schumann, Zemlinsky
and Zuraj

8 July, 20:00 KH
Konzerthausorchester Berlin, Julian Rachlin
(violin)
Conductor: Tomás Netopil; Works by Dvorak, Shostakovitch
the soul variety show and Schumann

”A roaring Dance through Soul-History.”


Berliner Kurier

One Mome Billy Jean n my Hea


rt WINTERGARTEN:
ALL NIGHT LONG
ntin Time Unchai
Rain
Purple
Fantasy g
Feelin
good

Fire
Girl on

” No doubt – the King of Pop


would be amazed.”
zitty Berlin

For a short time only:


13 July – 28 August 2016
Wed – Sat 20:00 · Sun 18:00
Tickets from € 32
Prices plus advance booking fee
and € 2 system fee / ticket
From 13 July, the Wintergarten’s ‘All Night Long’ show
features a live band playing evergreens from Ray Charles
bit.ly/wigaweb # allnightlong to Whitney Houston, and fabulous international artists
who enchant the audience with their performances
and own choreographies. Rhythm & Blues, Jazz and
Funk provide this show with its unmistakable groove.
Potsdamer Straße 96, D -10785 Berlin Tiergarten WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉQPotsdamer Straße
Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 or just print your 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58
tickets at home: www.wintergarten-berlin.de 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat
20:00, Sun 18:00.

16 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events
15 July, 20:00 KH
Konzerthausorchester Berlin, Chad Hoopes ROCK LEGENDS ON TOUR
(violin)
Conductor: Dennis Russell Davies; Works by Adams, Paul McCartney’s ‘One On
Bruckner, Glass One’ tour visit’s Berlin’s won-
derful open-air Waldbühne
stadium on 14 June. Kick-
CONCERTS ing off with classic and less
8 June, 19:00 WB well-known Beatles material,
Black Sabbath (Metal) Sir Paul seamlessly mixes in
songs from later decades and
13 June, 19:00 ZS recent hits. A week later, on
Cypress Hill (Hiphop) 21 June, another rock legend
plays the Waldbühne. Neil
14 June; 19:30 WB Young is here to present the 2 new albums he released
Paul McCartney (Rock) in 2015. He performs with LA indy rockband Promise
Of The Real, lead by Willie Nelson’s two sons, who also
19 June, 19:00 OS played on his 2015 “The Monsanto Years” album. For
Bruce Springsteen & The E-Street Band (Rock) more information and tickets see www.semmel.de.

19 June, 20:00 CT
Steve Vai (Rock)

20 June, 19:00 ZS
PJ Harvey (Alternative)

22 June, 20:00 HX
Megadeth (Metal)

27 June, 20:00 TD
Sean Paul (RnB)

29 June, 18:00 OS 17 July, 19:00 ZS


Coldplay (Rock/Pop) Lionel Ritchie (Soul)

4 July, 20:00 ZS 18 July, 19:00 ZS


Massive Attack (Alternative) Pixies (Alternative)

5 July, 19:00 CT 21 July, 19:00 ZS


Tortoise (Rock) Roxette (Rock/Pop)

8 & 9 July, 19:30 WB 21 July, 19:30 WB


Rammstein (Rock) Neil Young (Rock)

DIE SCHÖNSTEN SZENEN


DER DISNEY KLASSIKER IN EINEM
ZAUBERHAFTEN NEUEN PROGRAMM

14. JUNI 2016


POWERED BY

ÜHNE BERLIN · WALDBÜHNE


06/14/2016 Waldbühne 7:30 pm
PRKNET.DE PAULMcCARTNEY.COM #ONEONONE
07/02/2016 Waldbühne 7:00 pm 07/21/2016 Waldbühne 7:30 pm
PRKNET.DE PAULMcCARTNEY.COM #ONEONONE

TICKETS: 030 / 479 974 77 | www.semmel.de

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 17


Culture & Events
KUNSTHALLE: EXHIBITIONS
BASIM MAGDY 11 June - 18 Sept MG
Thomas Struth. Nature and politics.
& COMMON AFFAIRS The Thomas Struth exhibition in the Gropius-Bau shows
35 large-format photographs from 2007 to 2015 by one
The Egyptian artist Basim Magdy is the Deutsche
of the most famous photographers of our time. His photos
Bank’s Artist of the Year and until 3 July the “The
cover industrial production facilities, operating rooms and
Stars Were Aligned for a Century of New Beginnings”
research laboratories, as well as everyday architecture or
exhibition at the KunstHalle is an ironic allusion to
adventure parks.
humanity, which untiringly makes the same mistakes
throughout history. The societies he portrays in his 2014
Until 17 July AN
film trilogy are bankrupt, entangled in absurd rituals of
August Kopisch - Painter, Poet, Discoverer,
preserving the past or megalomaniac projects.
Inventor
Like nobody else, August Kopisch combined painting,
poetry, scholarship, translation, folklore, music, sculpture,
the organization of a festival, joy in experimentation, the
spirit of research, and inventiveness.
He made a name for himself when he discovered the Blue
Grotto on the island of Capri in 1826 and later brilliantly
translated Dante’s “Divine Comedy.”

Until 7 August MG
The Maya - language of beauty
The Maya are one of the oldest cultures IN the world. This
exhibition tells the story of their great artistic expression
with a collection of about 300 works of art, including many
Mexican national treasures – focusing on the basic aspect
of the pre-Hispanic art: the body.
Tymek Borowski: Key Visual. 2016, Installation View © Tymek Borowski
The “Common Affairs, Revisiting the VIEWS Award –
Contemporary Art from Poland” exhibition, from July TIPI SHOW: CABARET
21 - October 30, looks back at 13 years of the biannual
VIEWS award, handed to promising young Polish artists
in collaboration with Zachęta National Gallery of Art in
Warsaw. A selection of current positions by previous
nominees and winners including Tymek Borowski, Anna
Molska, Janek Simon, Karol Radziszewski, RafalJakubow-
icz and Karolina Bregula is presented here and at the
Polish Institute Berlin. Learn more about the artistic per-
spectives on the shifts and changes in the Polish and
the international art scene, from the “long nineties” up to
the present day. It promotes positions that deal with the
history and politics of memory and representation, with
transformation and approaches to change.
The incredible story of Berlin’s wild 1920s/30s amazes
visitors. Relive the atmosphere of the era at Tipi am
Kanzleramt at the musical version of Cabaret, made
famous in the 1972 film with Liza Minelli. The show
is fabulous, a bit naughty and full of fun - and even if
several of the songs are translated into German (English
notes are available) it’s easy to follow the story. With
seats from only €20 it’s a must-see if you’re in Berlin and
Elzbieta Jablonska: Nowe zycie ( New Life), 2010, Neon Sign
interested in the 1920s revue show scene.
Installation view at Polish Institute © Elzbieta Jablonska

DEUTSCHE BANK KUNSTHALLE, Unter den Linden 13 JULY – 4 SEPTEMBER. TIPI AM KANZLERAMT,
13/15, www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.com. Open Große Querallee, Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50,
10:00 - 20:00. Admission €4/3. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de.

18 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte
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Mitte
MUTTER HOPPE
Restaurants & Cafés Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the
Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided into cosy,
low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and
GERMAN historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy
ALPENSTUECK meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers
Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, sides not served at other German restaurants, including
Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try
dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further
a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and towards the Spree.QG‑3, Rathausstraße 21, Mitte,
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.
the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:30-24:00. €€.
palate.QF‑2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, T­E­G­B
tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open
18:00-01:00. €€. T­U­G­B­S RESTAURATION 1840
Located in a vaulted space under the S-Bahn tracks, this
JOSEPH ROTH DIELE traditional Berlin restaurant designed to recall the golden
A wonderfully cosy dark brown bar owned by the same 1920s serves regionally sourced international cuisine, 1840
people who run the Ave Maria religious shop, right next creations, including local favourites such as Sülze (cold
door to Joseph. It’s named after a prolific Jewish writer knuckle), Buletten (meatballs) and Currywurst sausage.
whose quotes decorate the walls and who lived nearby There are good seasonal wines, and the bar staff can
in the 1920s when this street was the beating heart of shake up a great cocktail.QG‑3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10,
Berlin’s nightlife. A nicely-priced lunch and delicious MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 24 72 74 01, post@
Flammkuchen pies are served, and it’s a great place for berlin-1840.de, www.berlin-1840.de. Open from 10:00.
a beer or wine after a show at the Wintergarten Varieté, E­G­B­W
opposite.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 75, Tiergarten, MU
Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 26 36 98 84, www.joseph- ROTISSERIE WEINGRÜN
roth-diele.de. Open 10:00-24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what was
T­E­N­G­B­S­W once Berlin’s old town, Weingrün’s fresh and simple interior
is a great place to sample regional grill dishes such as
MAXIMILIANS Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar is
So you always wondered what Bavaria is like – the beer, the stocked with wines from the owner’s own vineyards in the
food, Oktoberfest – but you only made it as far as Berlin? Pfalz. The restaurant offers good views over the Spree canal.
No problem: Maximilians restaurant serves up authentic QG‑4, Gertraudenstraße 10-12, Mitte, MU Spittelmarkt,
and delicious Bavarian cuisine just a stone’s throw from tel. +49 30 20 62 19 00, www.rotisserie-weingruen.de.
Gendarmenmarkt. The menu includes soups and salads, but Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. T­U­G­B­S­W
the real specialities are the delicious Bavarian meat dishes
such as knuckle of pork, steak, and a variety of sausages. SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN
QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 185-190, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest
tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly
Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. U­G­B­S atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on
the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional
treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth)
and Schnitzel.QF‑3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte, MU
BACK TO SCHOOL Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.
schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00-24:00. €€.
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district T­U­N­B­S
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the
watering hole for adult students from all around the STÄNDIGE VERTRETUNG
world who are learning German at the GLS language Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when
school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn
the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood hangout (named after the West-German ‘embassy’ in
with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques. the GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politician’s
meeting point supplies the homesick with their beloved
DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, Kölsch beer and Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de. and Saumagen), but the menu has a selection of Berlin
GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 food as well.QF‑3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte, MS/U
27, www.gls-berlin.de. Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.staev.de.
Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. B
20 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
WEIHENSTEPHANER
The one eatery on the sunny square that delivers a “hey, this FOOD WITH A VIEW
is Germany!” experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery
restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple
and satisfying Bavarian specialities (like white sausages).
The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-white checked
tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant.QG‑3,
Neue Promenade 5, Mitte, MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel.
+49 30 84 71 07 60, www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de.
Open 11:00-01:00. €€. T­U­E­G­B

ZILLE-STUBE
The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose
illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes
and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical
Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beaf-
stuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot
roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG‑3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU
Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestube-
nikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. E
PANORAMA CAFÉ
ZUM NUSSBAUM The 1930s-style café at the top of the popular Potsdamer
What seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming Platz viewing point has large windows and an open ter-
new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used race with great views over Berlin, and serves coffee, cakes
to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest. and other snacks.QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons don’t care for panoramapunkt.de. Open 11:00-19:00, Nov-Mar 11:00-
authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities 17:00. Tower admission €6,50/5, family ticket €15,50.
with curious translations, such as ‘brown rolls with dripping’.
QG‑3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel.
+49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. €. G­B KAMALA
Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere,
where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven
@InYourPocket placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai
soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the
curries are rich and buttery.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße
ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZ 69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97,
Berlin’s oldest restaurant doesn’t lie on the tourist path, and www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat
maybe that’s why German leaders bring visiting heads of 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. A­B
state here when everything in Mitte is too noisy and crowded.
Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989, and Gerhard Schröder MONSIEUR VUONG
brought Jacques Chirac over for the Berlin specialities, including Hanoi and Saigon have landed in a chic little red Vietnamese
Eisbein, in 2003.QG‑3, Waisenstraße 14-16, Mitte, MU restaurant in Mitte. There are only five dishes and two daily
Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz. specials, but they’re so delicious you’ll be ordering a second
de. Open 12:00-01:00. Closed Sun. €€. G­B­S bowl of rice to soak up the leftover sauce. After your gói
bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea. You’ll have to fight
the über-cool crowds for a table as Mr. Vuong doesn’t take
ASIAN reservations.QG‑2, Alte Schönhauser Straße 46, Mitte,
JOLLY MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 99 29 69 24, www.
Opposite the Pergamon Museum, with tourists, trams and monsieurvuong.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. S
S-Bahn trains gliding by the windows, Jolly is a spacious and
modern restaurant with delicious Cantonese Chinese and VAN LONG
Thai dishes. Specialities include dim sum and Peking roast Best visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities, from all
duck, served with pancakes and special sauce, but there’s parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty Thai options
also a wide variety of soups, and good portions of stir-fried served in a modest space decorated with Vietnamese art. Try the
meals and Thai curries, with servings of fluffy rice.QF‑3, specials such as the Cha Ca La Vong fish that you finish grilling
Am Kupfergraben 4, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. at your table, or the Lau chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.
+49 30 20 05 95 01, service@restaurant-jolly.de, www. QReinhardtstraße 8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49
restaurant-jolly.de. Open 11:30 - 23:30. €€. A­U­B­S 30 28 23 570, www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 21
Mitte
(as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, deep
AUSTRIAN carpets and a fireplace.QF‑3, Charlottenstraße 49, Mitte,
BRECHT KELLER MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.
The recipes served here are those of a busy Austrian actress fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30-23:00.
making do with East German ingredients, so though €€€€. P­A­G hh
decent, it’s not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) that’s famous,
but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold LUTTER & WEGNER
Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put the
basement cellar is full of family photographs and original sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a
set models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus
what could only be described as a romantic brick-lined on Gendarmenmarkt. There’s a warren of rooms in which
lounge area. A wall separates the terrace from the cemetery to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts,
where the couple are buried.QF‑2, Chausseestraße 125, and you can trust the national committee that dubbed
Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 38 43, the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003.QF‑3,
www.brechtkeller.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. B Charlottenstraße 56, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel.
+49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-berlin.de. Open 11:00-03:00.
Closed Sun, The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while the
FINE DINING Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. €€€. A­B
AIGNER
One of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly PARIS-MOSKAU
international, as its name, concept and all the old Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station -
furnishings originate from a famous Viennese café that on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered
closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly
team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced positioned between new government offices and hotels.
fresh from the market.QF‑3, Französische Straße 25, Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving
Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now.
www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00-02:00. Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust,
€€€. T­U­G­B­S­W tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, there’s a
lunch menu as well.QE‑3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten,
BORCHARDT MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.
Borchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good first paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat,
impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the building’s Sun 18:00-24:00. €€€. A
original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The money and
creative energy goes into the kitchen, which comes up VAU
with a different menu each day to keep its regular clientele It’s easy to spell and rhymes with wow, and the latter is
surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans, the beef dishes the word-of-mouth that has kept chef Kolja Kleeberg’s
here are delectable.QF‑3, Französische Straße 47, Mitte, restaurant fully booked for years. Using many products
MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 81 88 62 62, www. from the Berlin area, Michelin-starred Kleeberg follows
borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from 11:00. €€€. G­B his mentor Josef Viehhauser’s rule: never more than three
products on a plate.QF‑3, Jägerstraße 54/55, Mitte, MU
FACIL Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 202 97 30, www.vau-
At the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 14:30; 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun.
chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare €€€€. P­A­G h
using only fresh, local products direct from the market.
The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty
vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is a post-modern,
glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that
CASINO
retracts.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U SPIELBANK BERLIN
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de. The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette,
Open . Closed Sat, Sun, Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic
Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. U­G­B­W h Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the
restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from
FISCHERS FRITZ the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book
The restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and a tour including game instructions.QE‑4, Marlene-
the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined palate. Dietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de.
that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef first Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission €2,50. Minimum age
trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual.
those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei
22 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
VOX
Highly-paid business travellers from New York, London, JAPANESE
and Hamburg look quite at home in this excellent, COCOLO
minimalist and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. A completely authentic Japanese ramen noodle soup
Between the live jazz in the adjoining lounge and the restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds
show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, of fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches
so don’t drop your sushi in your lap. The Vox bar is open and a line of hungry waiting guests. Start off with a bowl of
from 18:00 and closes when guests decide. The kitchen salty green beans, choose from five delicious broths, have
is open until 24:00. Breakfast on Saturday continues an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.QG‑2, Gipsstraße 3,
until 11:00 and on Sunday until 14:00.QE‑4, Marlene- Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 172 304 75
Dietrich-Platz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, 84. Open 18:00-24:00. €€. G­B
tel. +49 30 25 53 17 02, www.berlin.grand.hyatt.com.
Open 06:30 - 10:30; 12:00 - 14:30; 18:30 - 24:00. €€€. SUSHI CIRCLE
P­A­E­G­B This sushi bar caters less to the guests of the upscale hotels
in the area and more to shoppers and office workers on the
go. If you’re not quick enough to grab the pieces passing by
INDIAN on the bar’s conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle around
AAPKA again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle to whip
Located on a pretty street corner near Zionskirchplatz, a request off for you.QF‑3, Französische Straße 48, Mitte,
Aapka offers healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes. You MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 650 60, www.
can drop by for the lunch menu and on Sunday join the sushi-circle.de. Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:00-23:00. €.
young Prenzl’ Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch - or drop by
later for cocktails.QG‑2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94, SPANISH
www.aapka.de. Open 12:00-01:00, Sun 11:00-01:00. €€. YOSOY TAPAS-BAR
B Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this intimate-
sized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and a Spanish staff
is one of the few to proudly show its roots. High stools
INTERNATIONAL and an open storefront give you a nice vantage point
NOLA’S AM WEINBERG from which to watch the crowds flowing towards the
This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The Hackescher Höfe.QG‑3, Rosenthaler Straße 37, Mitte,
predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 912 13, www.
which is perfect for pretending to be in the mountain air of yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. €€. P­A­B
St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until 16:00 and you can order
meals until midnight.QG‑2, Veteranenstraße 9, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www. CAFÉS
nola.de. Open 10:00-01:00. €€. T­U­G­B­S BARCOMI’S DELI
Barcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coffee and
REINHARD’S luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake
Reinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon
in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel, heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream
and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG‑3, cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also
Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaffeerösterei
52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00-24:00. €€-€€€. outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coffee.QF‑5,
T­G­B­S Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de.
TRAUBE Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. TGBS
In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, ‘The
Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent SOPHIENECK
range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: cross- A favourite of locals and tourists alike, Sophieneck is one of
over food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland the most charming cafés in Mitte. Located near Hackescher
and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes Markt since the revamp of the district in 1984, it has resisted
or compose their own menus, with or without wines. trendification, staying true to its warm mishmash decor
The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF‑2, of art nouveau and poster art. The menu offers delicious
Reinhardtstraße 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. Central European fare, accompanied by an international wine
+49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00- list.QG‑2/3, Große Hamburger Straße 37, Mitte, MU
15:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. €€€. Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.sophieneck-
T­G­B berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 23
Mitte
THE DIGITAL EATERY lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering
Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7,
historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very first it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On
café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot the menu are drinks, exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot
to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers,
pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (€8,90), pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG‑2,
or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel.
devices or use the free wifi. Best of all are the digital toys +49 30 27 59 08 73, info@mein-haus-am-see.com,
that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours
play Xbox games.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. Open 24/7. €. TUENGBSW
+49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 -
19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W REINGOLD
A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with
an oversize drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn offspring,
Nightlife Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though it
often has a DJ, no one dances here. It’s a setting for making
stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF‑2,
BARS Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49
AUFSTURZ 30 28 38 76 76, info@reingold.de, www.reingold.de.
The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB
done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens
of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak
beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable CLUBS
and the place looks good, with changing modern art GRÜNER SALON
exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger Chandeliers dress up this occasional club venue, talk-show
Straße haunt.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 67, Mitte, MS stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for standard evenings
Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, kontakt@ like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing.QG‑2, Volksbühne,
aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from 12:00. EB Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-
Platz, tel. +49 30 24 59 89 36, www.gruener-salon.de.
EASTWOOD BERLIN-MITTE Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
A high-end lounge bar and weekend club nearby
Gendarmenmarkt, with a glamorous modern interior by KAFFEE BURGER
local designer Emell Gök Che, a regularly changing cocktail The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
menu, and champagne. The club part is open on weekend decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in-
nights, when DJs pump out house, lounge, electro and the-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir
jazz sounds - use the VIP table service to make the night Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings
complete.QRosmarinstr. 8, Mitte, tel. +49 30 20 67 90 like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with
54, reservierung@eastwood-berlin.de, www.eastwood- DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.
berlin.de. Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Club open Fri/ QG‑2, Torstraße 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz,
Sat 23:00-06:00. W tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open
from 21:00. E
ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMP
An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher ROTER SALON
Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters This place probably began with a faded elegance, but let’s
can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied say it’s just settled in after ten years of clubbers bouncing off
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop, electro lounge,
the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a stage, and electroclash - the music Berlin is known for.QG‑2,
plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-
having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175 12, www.roter-
the back yard shows foreign films in original version.QG‑3, salon-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.
Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
post@eschschloraque.de, www.eschschloraque.de. WEEK-END CLUB
Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW A club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th floor of the
beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel
MEIN HAUS AM SEE agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on the corner of Otto-
It’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the Braun-Straße.QG‑3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U
‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open Thu-
seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture Sat 23:00-04:00.
24 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
Schützenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte Anfahrt | Directions
(Nähe Checkpoint Charlie) U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie)
www.currywurstmuseum.com U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)

EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM


ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN.
TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART.

NEUE SYNAGOGE
PUBS The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most
KILKENNY IRISH PUB eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance
The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from
station offer more than enough space for natives and 1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, first
tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through
and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the
sure that you won’t miss a single goal. Irish and German thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of
beer, whiskey and other cold beverages flow freely.QG‑3, whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue
Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, in Germany. A subtle but effective sound installation adds
tel. +49 30 283 20 84, info@kilkenny-pub.de, www. to the experience.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 28-30,
kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00,
www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:00-

Sightseeing 20:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct


until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat
closed. Admission €3,50/3.
LANDMARKS POTSDAMER PLATZ
BRANDENBURGER TOR Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving
Berlin’s landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the
in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the war, and suffered again when most remaining buildings
goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot were demolished to make way for the Wall’s death strip.
atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades Hotel and office skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge
here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torch-lit to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt.
marches through it, the war badly damaged it, and then the The most popular public space and architectural attraction
Wall essentially bricked the patched-up gate in for decades. is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like
Berliners celebrated the Wall’s fall in 1989 by standing on it roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting.
in front of the gate, and after renovations the gate is the The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds
proud focus point of the renewed square again.QF‑3, architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the
Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor. Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F‑4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR


Checkpoint Charlie
Friedrichstraße 47 / corner Zimmerstraße | 10117 Berlin-Mitte
Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Visitors’ service info@bfgg.de
More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de

HERE, CONTEmpORARy HIsTORy COmEs ALIvE

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 25


Mitte
MUSEUMSINSEL 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers NEUES MUSEUM
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology, in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full of
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus
well as their cross-overs into modernity. Collection are housed here, with spectacular finds
such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King
ALTE NATIONALGALERIE Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has finds
Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany.
some of the artists whose works hang around this One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were
museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure considered to be ‘degenerate art’ by the Nazis.QG‑3,
itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
battered colonnade.QG‑3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 -
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www. 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.
smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. PERGAMON MUSEUM
The Pergamon museum is undergoing major
ALTES MUSEUM renovations, with the north wing and the hall with
This neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors
Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing
of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from
the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG‑3, Am
sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel.
ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG‑3, Am +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open
Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.

NIKOLAIVIERTEL Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits


Berlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, related to Berlin.QG‑3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU
whose only truly medieval-looking building today is the Klosterstraße, www.stadtmuseum.de.
Nikolaikirche. The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt
along with the entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlin’s REICHSTAG
750th birthday in the area in which the fishermen’s The name together with its monumental size make most
settlement first began. No one was trying to outdo Walt people associate Germany’s neoclassical parliamentary
Disney here, and many of the buildings have the simple, building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After
concrete facades that the GDR government could afford. hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fire
The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys and just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in
souvenirs and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at the January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during
restaurants that face the river. On Rathausstraße, there’s which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously
a row of restaurants that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a
cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999.
in the area date to the 1700s, such as the Ephraim- Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps

26 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte
the most public federal building in the world through its
glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting MEMORIALS
the building’s history circle the rim above the parliament FÜHRERBUNKER
chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome, One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed
an engineering feat even more fascinating than the suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, Hitler
panoramic view from the top. It’s best to book an entry lived roughly eight meters below ground in an air-raid
time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced concrete
the building in advance online; otherwise queue up ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by walking
for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the to the end of In den Ministergärten, off Ebertstraße. A
road. Photo ID is required.QF‑3, Platz der Republik 1, parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated apartment
Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/ complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed off
htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop during the complex’s construction in 1988-89. The bunker
access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30, was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind
12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free. the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstraße.QF‑3, In den
Ministergärten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
CHURCHES
BERLINER DOM vine.co/inyourpocket
The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from
1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were
still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS
demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern OF EUROPE
dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness
to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are
exhibit rooms and good views.QG‑3, Am Lustgarten, estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims. The
www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a field of
20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission €7/4. 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, creating
an undulating landscape that fills two city blocks. The
DEUTSCHER DOM memorial has an undergound information centre which is
The baroque ‘German Church’ from 1701 was completed not suitable for children.QF‑3, Cora-Berliner-Straße 1,
with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36,
by fire in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s. besucherservice@stiftung-denkmal.de, www.stiftung-
Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an denkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00-20:00, Oct-
exhibition about the development of parliamentarian Mar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically
in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows
and the impressive building models on the top floor. Free MUSEUMS
tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking BLACK BOX COLD WAR
is required for individual visitors.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of
1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www. the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links
bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/ between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban
wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and
texts highlights the main events that took place here.
FRANZÖSISCHER DOM QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35
The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkt’s 71, info@bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and Admission €5/3,50.
similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the
war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM
Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the According to the myth, currywurst is Berlin’s very own
other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that first became
French only), dedicated to the thousands of French popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be
protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century. found at train stations and street corners across the city.
Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40 This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this
metres above street level, with great views all around. culinary creation. There’s a shop with sausage accessories
QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. and you can taste currywurst too.QF‑4, Schützenstraße
+49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open 70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47, www.
12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission
Admission €2/1, viewing balcony €2.50/1. €11/8,50, Mon 20% less.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 27
Mitte
asisi Panorama Berlin Tickets and Service
Friedrichstraße 205 +49(0)341.35 55 34 0
10117 Berlin service@asisi.de
Checkpoint Charlie

Free Guided Tours Opening hours


Thursdays 11.30 a.m. daily from 10 a.m.
in English – for Berlin to 6 p.m.
discoverers

Getting there facebook.com/


U6 Kochstraße asisi.berlin
U2 Stadtmitte www.asisi.de
M29 Kochstraße

ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN


asisi.de In cooperation with

DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLIN GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER


Inside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war The excellent national memorial site for the divided
building on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the Germany has a documentation centre covering the
Daimler company’s art collection is presented in four Berlin Wall’s history in text, slides and dramatic film
well-curated exhibitions per year. The collection has footage. An unscathed section of Wall runs along the
mainly abstract artworks from the 20th century until street; walk behind it to peer through a crack in the
now, and a few of the larger sculptures are on permanent Hintermauer rear wall to see a preserved section of
display in the streets around the museum.QE‑4, Alte death strip as it looked in the 1980s, complete with
Potsdamer Straße 5, Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14 a patrol road, wires and a watchtower. Nearby, the
20, www.sammlung.daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00. wooden Chapel of Reconciliation is built on the spot
Admission free. of a church demolished to make way for the border
defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for several more
DDR MUSEUM open-air exhibitions.QF‑2, Bernauer Straße 111 & 119,
Rather than concentrating on the Wall, state terror and Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467 98 66 66,
other dark aspects of the East German regime, this infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.berliner-
popular museum presents a glimpse of daily life under mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-19:00, Nov-Mar
totalitarianism. A wide selection of GDR-era objects is on 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition open
display in several themed areas, including media, fashion, 24hrs). Admission free.
education, work, family and shopping. You can hang on
the couch, touch the clothes and sit in a Trabant.QG‑3, GEMÄLDEGALERIE
Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 1, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, Berlin’s largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works
tel. +49 30 847 12 37 31, post@ddr-museum.de, www. spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters
ddr-museum.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-22:00. include Dürer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians
Admission €6/4. are represented by Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch
rooms are especially good with a Vermeer and the world’s
largest Rembrandt collection.QE‑4, Matthäikirchplatz
Get the In Your Pocket 8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266
42 42 42, service@smb.museum, www.smb.museum.
City Essentials App Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
Admission €8/€4.

DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM HAMBURGER BAHNHOF


The imperial Zeughaus - a pretty, pink, early 18th century Berlin’s wonderful modern art museum is situated in a
arsenal building by the Spree - houses the impressive converted train station. It’s well worth a visit by those
German History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of
building illustrate the best and worst episodes of Germany’s animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fixated by
history, and there are regularly changing exhibitions in bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel
the dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s
an audio tour set for €3 or join the English-language collection.QE‑2, Invalidenstraße 50-51, Mitte, MS/U
highlights tour on Saturdays at 13:00.QF‑3, Unter den Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, hbf@smb.spk-
Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 berlin.de, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 -
40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8/4. 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Under 18 free. Admission €10/5.
28 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
KUNSTHALLE
The private collection of the Deutsche Bank contains PANORAMAPUNKT
works by world-renowned contemporary artists; regularly
changing temporary exhibitions show selected works in this
space on Unter den Linden designed by Richard Gluckman.
The annual ‘artist of the year’ exhibition focuses on one young
artist. There’s a nice ArtCafé and shop too. There are free tours
every day, several on Monday between 11:00-19:00.QF‑3,
Unter den Linden 13-15, Mitte, MU Französische Straße,
tel. +49 30 202 09 30, www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.
com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €4/3, Monday &
under 18 free. Free guided tours at 18:00.

MEMU MENSCHEN MUSEUM


A much-discussed exhibition of real, plastinated human
bodies, aiming to show visitors how their bodies and © Landesarchiv Berlin
individual organs work, how we can live healthier and longer, PANORAMAPUNKT
and what disease really looks like.QPanoramastrasse 1a It takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to
(Fernsehturm tower), Mitte, www.memu.berlin. Open get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th and
10:00 - 19:00. Admission €14/12. 25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans
Kollhoff’s magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to
MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN New York’s skyscraping glory days but also resembles
Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the
personalities that gave it glamour and style came from top floors there’s a short film and an exhibition about
Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which
Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country went from a world-class entertainment district to a Wall-
with a strong film-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set divided wasteland and back again within a generation.
designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and The café and rooftop terrace offer great close-up views
exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting of Olympia (1936) of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust
and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda films will impress memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and
‘seen-that’ film buffs. The museum ends with special effects Tiergarten park.QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
and science fiction.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 2 (Sony MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Nov-Mar
300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 - 10:00-18:00. Admission €6,50/5, family ticket €15,50.
18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission €6/4,5.

MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE VIEWPOINTS


All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER)
illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops
beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world certainly brings a level of humour to Berlin’s skyline. The
towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere there’s the 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969,
aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites, the most 70m higher than the Eiffel tower and the tallest building in
famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird Archaeopteryx Germany, has an observation deck and the Sphere restaurant
lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla Bobby from with a rotating floor. Photos point out the landmarks for you.
the primates hall.QF‑2, Invalidenstraße 43, Mitte, MU QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85 91, info@mfn- www.tv-turm.de. Admission €12/8.
berlin.de, www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Open 09:30 -
18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,50.
Shopping
WALL PANORAMA
The round structure near Checkpoint Charlie houses an ALEXA CENTRE
incredibly detailed 60 by 15 metre panoramic painting of A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with
the Berlin Wall and its scruffy surroundings as it looked five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafés. There’s a
in the mid-1980s. Artist Yadegar Asisi has captured the massive kids’ area with a cinema and the LOXX model train
everyday banality of the Wall with fascinating small scenes exhibition.QG‑3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz),
of life, on both sides of the divide. English tour Thu 11:30. Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00,
QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 205, Mitte, tel. +49 34 13 55 53 40, www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00,
www.asisi.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mid-July to mid-Sept lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:00-
10:00-19:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission €10/8. 19:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 29
Mitte
GUDRUN SJÖDÉN
Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjödén in a
The best Berlin bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. There’s two
floors of clothing and a cozy café corner.QMarkgrafenstr.
32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.
has to offer de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

in one great app RITTER SPORT CHOCOWORLD


The flagship store of Germany’s famous Ritter Sport
chocolate brand has hundreds of chocolatey products to
try and buy, an exhibition about how chocolate is made, a
restaurant and a workshop where children can create their
own chocolate bar.QFranzösische Str. 24, Mitte, tel. +49
30 20 09 50 80, www.ritter-sport.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Hotels
OVER €200
ADLON KEMPINSKI
The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of
the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy
1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble
and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable
service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even
Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.
QF‑2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den
Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, adlon@kempinski.com,
www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles €240
- 379, 304 doubles €216 - 478, 78 suites €531 - 7100).
PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh

HILTON
Maybe it’s the excellent breakfast and not the privileged
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back.
The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants

City Essentials and exotic spa treatments.QF‑2, Mohrenstraße 30, Mitte,


MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@hilton.
com, www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles €145 - 345,
doubles €145 - 345, suites €220 - 1145). Breakfast extra.
Only our favourite places PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh

Works offline, incl. maps HOTEL DE ROME


Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a
Free download magnificent former bank building from 1889. Wooden
panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade
Incl. dozens of other cities the high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the bank’s vault
is now a 20-metre pool.QF‑3, Behrenstraße 37, Mitte,
MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, info.
www.iyp.me/app derome@roccofortecollection.com, www.hotelderome.
com. 146 rooms (103 singles €395 - 495, 103 doubles
€395 - 495, 43 suites €595 - 4100).

MARRIOTT
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S Ten floors of superb rooms and conference facilities
overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning
3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one
30 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
wall plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness
centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make
this one of Berlin’s finest hotels.QE‑4, Inge-Beisheim-
Platz 1, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22
360° PANORAMIC VIEW EXHIBITION CAFÉ
00 00, www.marriott.com. 379 rooms (350 singles
€159 - 219, 350 doubles €159 - 219, 9 suites €350 -
1200, 80 executive room €199 - 259). Breakfast extra.
PHAFLGKDC hhhhh

WESTIN GRAND
Enviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party
bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy
of the Adlon’s marble staircase situated in the lobby, a
round pool, an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler
service.QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 158-164, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 202 70, info@westin-grand.
com, www.westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles
€136 - 350, 273 doubles €136 - 375, suites €379 - 930, 15
junior suites €279 - 565, 1 presidential suite €986 - 1930).
Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
WITH THE FASTEST ELEVATOR IN EUROPE
hhhhh
TO THE BEST
VIEWS OF BERLIN
€150-200
MANDALA
Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and long-
term stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great
views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil
restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstraße 185-
190 are close to all the action.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 3,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00
00, welcome@madison-berlin.de, www.themandala.de.
157 rooms (157 suites €130 - 5800). Breakfast extra.
PHAUFLKDW hhhhh

€75-150
HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS
Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely
furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for
a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence
(Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and
ition
goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer.QF‑2, Exhib
Tieckstraße 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 Views
lin
284 45 50, info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond. of Ber
de. 24 rooms (singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225).
AG

PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ


Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germany’s
third-largest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms
are all renovated and stocked with a coffeemaker and
ironing board. By far the best choice for the direction- Opening hours:
impaired.QG‑3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Platform: 10:00-20:00
Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 238 90, berlin.hotel@ Café: 11:00-19:00
rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn-berlin.com. Shorter opening hours during winter
1012 rooms (318 singles €89 - 125, 671 doubles
€89 - 125, 23 suites €130 - 185). Breakfast extra. Potsdamer Platz 1 www.panoramapunkt.de
POARFGKD hhhh
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 31
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Charlottenburg & the West
Restaurants & Cafés
GERMAN
APRIL
This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for
two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out
back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD‑5,
Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS

KNESE Zillemarkt
Alt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on offer at rustic
Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes,
the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNE
potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled
prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz.
desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with
good South-African wine.QC‑4, Knesebeckstraße 63, pea puree, sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, Grütze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and
www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TB warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional Alt-
Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD‑5, Motzstraße 61,
RENGER-PATZSCH Schöneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21
Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is 96 98 61, schoeneberger_weltlaterne@yahoo.de, www.
kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and schoeneberger-weltlaterne.de. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri,
the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB
such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared
pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen.
QD‑5, Wartburgstraße 54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher
Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com.
Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€.

RESTAURANT SCHLOSSGARTEN
A stone’s throw from the elegant Charlottenburg palace
and several top-class museums, the Schlossgarten is an
excellent restaurant with a bright interior and a large
terrace. It specialises in German and game dishes using
fresh regional products; try the spicy goulash soup, a
Bratwurst game sausage, fresh fish dishes or calf liver.QB‑3,
Schlossstr. 64, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-
Platz, tel. +49 30 36 70 22 99, restaurant-schlossgarten@
web.de, www.restaurant-schlossgarten-berlin.de. Open
11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00.

Local cuisine
Wartburgstraße 54
Berlin - Schöneberg
Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
Renger-Patzsch

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 33


GEBE42_RengerPatzsch_ad.indd 5 26.11.2009 12:44:07
Charlottenburg & the West
ASIAN
SUKSAN
A short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan
is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo
poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials,
or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or
fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD‑4,
Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de, www.
suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.

AUSTRIAN
Suksan OTTENTHAL
The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
ZILLEMARKT seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town,
It’s easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver
for his charming portraits of Berlin’s lower classes, stroll or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener
in and order a jellied boiled pork, stuffed cabbage Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can
leaves or a Berliner Currywurst. Zillemarkt serves rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines
breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner, and and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil,
you can down a Zillebräu beer in the glass-ceilinged are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite
bar.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS spots.QC‑4, Kantstraße 153, Charlottenburg, MU
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, info@zillemarkt.de, Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.
www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. VGB
- 24:00. TB
SCHNITZELEI
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is
well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No
JJ
tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre,
Zillemarkt
Caféhaus • Restaurant
with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good
vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations,
though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB‑3,
Over 100 years of Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-
comfort and quality Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS
Traditional German cuisine
FINE DINING
FIRST FLOOR
A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieter’s
restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who can’t
move well after a seven-course meal make a point of staying
at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and the Far
East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu.
QD‑4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, www.palace.
de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. G h

HUGOS
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00 The InterContinental’s Michelin-starred French restaurant on
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00 the 14th floor has stunning views across the park to Potsdamer
Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeier’s cuisine is equally dazzling; expect
Tel. 030-881 70 40 subtle creations blending fine flavours in the lightest of dishes.
Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg QD‑4, Budapester Straße 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer
www.zillemarkt.de Garten, tel. +49 30 26 02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de.
Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. TUGW h
34 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
FRENCH
LE PETIT ROYAL SUKSAN
TRAVEL FAR. EAT AT HOME
Fantastic, high quality French cuisine, focussing on classic
dishes, fresh seafood and fish - but there’s great steak
too. And it’s no problem to pair whatever you order to
one of the 500 wines stored in the large wine room. The Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for
beautifully designed space is perfect for a special night out. Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin,
QC‑4, Grolmanstrasse 59, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty
330 06 07 50, www.lepetitroyal.de. combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness,
and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dis-
hes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo
INTERNATIONAL roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us
DIEKMANN take you on a culinary trip to the land of smiles.
Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlin’s simple
tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what
began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers
of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann
still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients.
Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French
cheeses.QC‑4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann-
restaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
€€€. UGB

DRESSLER
A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of
Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling, 100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin
large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant
meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu
changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden
39.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurant-
THAI RESTAURANT
dressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB & COCKTAIL LOUNGE

Get the In Your Pocket ORIGINA


L
City Essentials App THAI FOO
D
DUKE
Creative international crossover meals are served in the
aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling
1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows
you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary
treats.QD‑4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg,

SUKSAN
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.
duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€-€€€€.

EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space Ansbacher Strasse 4
only. Every day there’s a completely different menu, with
European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian corner Kurfürstenstrasse
dishes.QC‑4, Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU U - Wittenbergplatz
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn- www.suksan.de
catering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €.
NGS
TEL 030.21 01 86 73
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 35
Charlottenburg & the West
ITALIAN RUSSIAN
FRANCUCCI’S SAMOWAR
Francucci’s kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with home- Berlin’s oldest Russian restaurant can fittingly be found
made pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in in Charlottenburg, the district that has been popular
dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black with Russian visitors and immigrants for over a century.
truffles.QB‑4, Kurfürstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU Samowar serves Chicken Kiev, Beef Stroganoff, Odessa
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci. fish soup and many more Russian classics in a wonderful
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TVGBSW setting with dark wood, paintings, busts and antiques. For
an extra memorable experience book the 3-course Czar
LA FORCHETTA menu with borscht soup, shashlik, salmon, veal and bliny
An upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but desserts - or enjoy a tea ceremony with Russian sweets.
overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served QLuisenplatz 3, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 341 41 54,
here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer, www.restaurant-samowar.de. Open From 11:00.
a romantic terrace is available.QA‑5, Königsallee 5b,
Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, info@
la-forchetta-berlin.de, www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. SPANISH
Open 12:00 - 24:00. B EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting
ZWÖLF APOSTEL for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh
The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and
with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just want
Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass
is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business by.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg,
lunch options offer good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, www.
under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€. B
49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312
14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€.
TNGBS CAFÉS
CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through
JAPANESE Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then
SACHIKO SUSHI renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This café, restaurant
An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town, and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as
dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant well as regional food, coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food
with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve served till 22:00.QD‑4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten,
classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, here’s MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.
your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -
tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC‑3, 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB
Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi. CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS
com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats,
€€. TGBS polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you don’t have
to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout.
Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and
ORIENTAL critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that
MAROOUSH are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC‑4, Fasanenstraße
Egyptian-Oriental opulence with a modern twist. This 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30
restaurant, shisha lounge and cocktail bar has decent 887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.de,
meze starters and Middel Eastern mains; on Friday and www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€. GB
Saturday the belly-dancers perform to live music.QC‑4,
Knesebeckstraße 48, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, CAFE KALWIL
tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35, www.marooush.de. A cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg.
Open 15:00 - 01:00. E Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering
chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping
moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coffee, quality teas,
Read more reviews online: cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals and more.
berlin.inyourpocket.com QD‑4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 - 22:00. €€. ABW
36 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
GRENANDER MORNING GLORY
Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at
the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for
breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your
morning.QD‑4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.
grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS

Nightlife
BARS
GREEN DOOR
This dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An
undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
green leather door protects those prone to bumping into
things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up,
and quite steady on their feet.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße 50,
Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15,
www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.

HEFNER
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini
cocktails in Berlin.QC‑4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg,
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefner-
berlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB
WEST BERLIN REVIVAL
ZWIEBELFISCH
The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term used
by printers to label a single letter that rebels and appears in a
font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals
come here to rest the weight of their youthful ideals and trade
wisecracks with long-time owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz
or classic music is piped in, and a selection of papers and
magazines helps stretch out the beer or coffee. Hot meals,
like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen are served up until
03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a brilliantly social
arrangement.QC‑4, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-
berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW After the Second World War, the western half of Berlin
found itself in a very curious situation. This group of city
suburbs, which included the chic shopping and theatre
district of Charlottenburg, was suddenly declared a
separate entity from the eastern part of the city, which
included the entire city centre district. After the fall of
the Wall, West Berlin went through a tough decade of
reorientation, as investment and visitors headed east
to the original city centre. Now however, the West is
undergoing something of a revival. Next to the newly
renovated Gedächtniskirche stands the gleaming
new Waldorf Astoria, overlooking the revolutionary
Bikini Berlin concept mall and the linked 25hours
Hotel Bikini Berlin.
Café im Literaturhaus

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 37


Charlottenburg & the West

401
whiskies

■ Berlin‘s first English pub since 1976


■ British and Irish beer on tap
◄ Drink from the YARD OF ALE (1 litre)
mouth-blown exclusively for Union Jack
■ Live Music during winter months
Schlüterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00

PUBS SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG


THE HARP The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s
A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of in 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter
homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and facade and central tower, took its final form in 1790.
a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious
events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an
and live music too. The pub can be booked for special eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms
occasions.QB‑4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harp- French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque
pub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 15:00, Sat, Sun garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a
from 10:00. €-€€. EBW porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or
Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA‑3, Spandauer Damm 20-24,
UNION JACK Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30
A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar
whisky pub is one of Berlin’s first true pubs and continues 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues
to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys closed. Admission €12/8, New Wing €6/5. Photo permit
(from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and €3.
Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers.
Solid food is available too – home made snacks and Walkers
crisps.QC‑4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MS CHURCHES
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjack- GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE
berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun Open from The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark re-
19:00. Sun closed. minder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s landmark
attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowl-
Sightseeing edgement of Germany’s culpability is declared on a
plaque: ‘The tower of the old church serves as a remem-
LANDMARKS
OLYMPIC STADIUM
The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the
direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936
Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist
architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most
striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly
floating roof whose translucent skin offers shelter for
almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you
can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide,
or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz
3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49
30 25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de,
www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00
June - mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-
16:00. Admission €7/5. Union Jack

38 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Charlottenburg & the West
brance of God’s judgement, which befell our people dur-
ing the war years.’ The 1895 church was once a symbol of PARKS AND GARDENS
national pride: even synagogues contributed to its fund- TIERGARTEN
ing. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and
The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were complet- waterways is the most genteel of Berlin’s parks, but it’s
ed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the still a fine place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue,
amazing blue stained glass windows. Concerts take place or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessäule
every week, many of them free.QD‑4, Breitscheidplatz, (Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout
50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00- point in the middle of the park. The park’s café and beer
19:00. garden, Café am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end.
QC/D/E‑3/4.
MUSEUMS
ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM) Hotels
The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied
(US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house
Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from OVER €200
the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135, DAS STUE
Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818 The luxurious, family-owned ‘living room’ hotel, set in the
19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. 1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting mix
Closed Wed. Admission free. of creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style bar and
many rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches and antelopes
BRÖHAN MUSEUM peering back at you. The rooms and grand suites are spread
A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and across the old and new wings, adorned with beautiful
craft design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by wooden and copper details. A small pool can be found
so much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy in the spa area, and there’s the first-class Cinco restaurant.
and indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent Q­D‑4, Drakestraße 1, Tiergarten, M­U Wittenbergplatz,
collection (spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases, tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.com. 80 rooms (70
and furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter doubles from €200, 20 suites €290-740). P­H­U­F­
Behrens and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions. G­K­D­C­W­
QB‑3, Schloßstraße 1a, Charlottenburg, MU Sophie-
Charlotte-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00, www.broehan- INTERCONTINENTAL
museum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park,
€6/4. the InterContinental offers quiet nights in modern and
spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent
C/O BERLIN business solutions. After work, there’s gourmet food
The famed C/O photo gallery is now based in the iconic at Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further
Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There are relaxation options can be found in the large spa
multiple exhibitions on at any time, by both unknown complex, with several saunas and fitness facilities.Q­D‑4,
and renowned photographers. Don’t miss the cafe and the Budapester Straße 2, Tiergarten, M­S/U Zoologischer
museum shop either.QC‑4, Hardenbergstraße 22-24, Garten, tel. +49 30 260 20, berlin@interconti.com,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 www.interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles €165 -
30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org. Open 11:00 - 20:00. 350, 498 doubles €170 - 400, 60 suites €215 - 2500).
Admission €10/5. Breakfast extra. P­T­H­A­U­F­L­E­G­B­K­
D­C­W­h­h­h­h­h­
MUSEUM FÜR ASIATISCHE KUNST
Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything KEMPINSKI BRISTOL
from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but
Art museum has an impressive permanent collection this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home
of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and - out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on
archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and a swank corner of Ku’damm.Q­C‑4, Kurfürstendamm
in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art. 27, Charlottenburg, M­U Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30
Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are 88 43 40, reservations.bristol@kempinski.com, www.
of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts. kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles €265 -
QTakustraße 40, Zehlendorf, MU Dahlem-Dorf, 326, 249 doubles €322 - 447, 52 suites €470 - 1800).
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open Breakfast extra. P­H­A­R­U­F­L­G­K­D­C­
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. h­h­h­h­h­
Admission €6/3.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 39
Charlottenburg & the West
PALACE
Near the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands €150-200
feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADE
the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak Overlooking the Bauhaus museum between
panelling and fireplaces. The staidly furnished rooms are Kurfürstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern
large.Q­D‑4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and impresses
M­S/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20, hotel@ with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harry’s New York Bar
palace.de, www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59 singles €200 and a sizeable spa and fitness centre.Q­D‑4, Lützowufer
- 300, 191 doubles €225 - 325, 32 suites €325 - 2150). 15, Tiergarten, M­U Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 25 47
P­H­A­R­U­F­L­G­K­D­C­h­h­h­h­h­ 80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms (singles/doubles
from €99, 40 suites from €139). P­T­H­A­U­F­L­
SAVOY BERLIN G­K­D­C­W­h­h­h­h­h­
Utterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode once
made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who
knows who you’ll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop €75-150
near the clubby Times Bar.Q­C‑4, Fasanenstraße 9-10, BERLIN, BERLIN
Charlottenburg, M­S/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 Mostly known for its conference facilities, this large 1958
31 10 30, info@hotel-savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com. hotel is in a central but rather bland area just south of
125 rooms (45 singles €142 - 222, 62 doubles €152 - 232, Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and restaurant
triples €192 - 272, 16 suites €202 - 292). A­R­F­K­ give way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a variety
D­h­h­h­h­ of styles. Peace can be found in the summer garden
restaurant.Q­D‑4, Lützowplatz 17, Tiergarten, M­U
SOFITEL BERLIN KURFÜRSTENDAMM Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50, info@hotel-berlin.
The 11-story, French-style Sofitel impresses with sleekly de, www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms (103 singles €100
designed rooms with fine woods, contemporary art - 195, 569 doubles €100 - 245, 29 suites €220 - 900).
and fantastic views from the upper floors. The curved P­H­A­R­U­F­L­G­K­D­h­h­h­h­
corner suites have sliding walls and elegant free-standing
bathtubs.Q­C‑4, Augsburger Straße 41, Charlottenburg, BERLIN PLAZA
M­U Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 800 99 90, H9387@ The Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with
sofitel.com, www.sofitel.com. 311 rooms (singles €230 - all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen
280, doubles €240 - 300, 44 suites €280 - 950). Breakfast and free wi-fi. The in-house Knese restaurant has solid
extra. traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace.
Q­C‑4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, M­U
SWISSÔTEL BERLIN Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, info@plazahotel.
Every room here has a Lavazza espresso machine and suites de, www.plazahotel.de. 131 rooms (singles €80 - 150,
are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. When you’re doubles €79 - 180, triples €105 - 200). H­L­G­K­W­
done playing in your room, downtown western Berlin
beckons. You’ll never want to go home.Q­C‑4, Augsburger ELLINGTON HOTEL
Straße 44, Charlottenburg, M­U Kurfürstendamm, tel. Set in a beautiful 1920s building near Kurfürstendamm and
+49 30 22 01 00, berlin@swissotel.com, www.swissotel- named after the American jazz legend, the Ellington’s rooms
berlin.com. 316 rooms (219 singles €160 - 310, 219 have clean, understated and elegant design, with the Tower
doubles €160 - 310, 14 suites €310 - 480, 11 junior suite Suites offering great views. The Duke hotel restaurant serves
€260 - 410). Breakfast €21. P­H­A­R­F­L­G­D­ up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings, and has
h­h­h­h­h­ regular jazz brunches.Q­D‑4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55,
Charlottenburg, M­U Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 68 31
WALDORF ASTORIA 50, contact@ellington-hotel.com, www.ellington-hotel.
Berlin’s newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies com. 285 rooms (singles €108 - 238, doubles €118 - 248,
a prime spot near Kurfürstendamm and the Kadewe suites €168 - 428). P­J­H­A­R­U­FL ­ ­K­
department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand
New York heritage, it’s decorated in lavish Art Deco style, SYLTER HOF
with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms, Sylt may be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these
and a café and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library suites in a high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in
on the 15th floor with its concierge and great views is a Berlin, you get a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket
comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run is across the street) and rates go down for longer stays.
by star chef Pierre Gagnaire offers fine dining and 650 Q­D‑3, Kurfürstenstraße 114-116, Schöneberg, M­U
wines.Q­C‑4, Hardenbergstraße 28, Charlottenburg, Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, info@sylterhof-
M­S/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www. berlin.de, www.sylterhof-berlin.de. 160 rooms (80
waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles from singles €69 - 120, 40 doubles €99 - 180, 40 suites €129
€250). P­H­A­U­F­L­G­K­D­C­w­W­ - 210). H­A­G­h­h­h­
40 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
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Friedrichshain
ASIAN BARS
GLORY DUCK CRACK BELLMER
Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new A barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial
place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with ginger- RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking
mango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other toppings. however; there’s film screenings, and a good-sized space
Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or one of the for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance
vegetarian options. There’s a good selection of drinks and at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Straße.QI‑4, Revaler
Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason to drop by; Straße 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße,
the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting perspective www.crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon.
lines, there’s a large harbour scene on one wall and the U­N­B
toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic stickers.QI‑4,
Sonntagstraße 31, Friedrichshain, MS Ostkreuz, tel. HABERMEYER
+49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.de. Open 12:00 - Like many Berlin bars, Habermeyer recycles the 1970s with
24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. AUBSW its light fixtures and furnishings but it also created its own
unusual wall designs. A popular table football and flipper
machine provide distraction from the loud and very varied DJ
INTERNATIONAL music, though there’s no space to dance, but there’s free salty
SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE snacks to console you.QJ‑4, Gärtnerstraße 6, Friedrichshain,
Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service MS Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 29 77 18 87, www.habermeyer-
– what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good bar.de. Open from 19:00 - open end. U­N­B
choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian
options.QI‑3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU
Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 - CLUBS
24:00. €. TUNGBS BERGHAIN
A legendary techno club. Pretty much anything goes on the
CUPCAKE BERLIN main dance floor, in the Panorama Bar and in the dark rooms
The very first thing that we learnt to bake together with our of this huge old power plant. The doorman picks from the
mothers is now a fashionable little dessert snack with its queue of hopefuls to create the right mix, so parties are always
own café dedicated to it. Try ‘The King’ cupcake (with Elvis’ varied and exciting. Arrive early Sunday morning for the best
favourite ingredients), the sweet ‘Pretty in Pink’ or any of atmosphere. There are concerts and events on weekdays
the other 20-odd creations. There’s a good breakfast and too, and in summer an outdoor Diskogarten.QI‑3/4, Am
coffee served at Cup Cake too.QJ‑4, Krossener Straße 12, Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel.
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 25 +49 30 29 36 02 10, www.berghain.de. Open Fri 24:00 -
76 86 87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Sat 12:00, Sat 24:00 - Mon 09:00. U­N­G­B­W
TUVNGBSW
MATRIX
Directly underneath under the Warschauer Straße U-Bahn
CAFÉS station DJs lay down tracks of R’n’B, straight house, soul,
KAUFBAR electro, disco and pop on seven dance floors within the
At this homey café you can wash down your chocolate croissant vaults that date back to 1901. There’s always a party here,
with either a coffee or carafe of red wine. Excepting the wine, 365 nights a year. Thursday is student night, Friday has
you can buy everything here to-go: the lampshades, art work, party classics with free champagne before midnight for
chairs and even the ashtrays. The only thing not for sale in ladies, Saturday is Fruity Night, with juicy cocktails.QI‑4,
the “Buy Bar” are their board games.QJ‑4, Gärtnerstraße 4, Warschauer Platz 18, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 Straße, tel. +49 30 29 36 99 90, www.matrix-berlin.de.
77 88 25, www.kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Open 22:00 - 06:00. Admission €3-6. U­G­B­W
Wed 15:00 - 24:00. TUNGBSW
POSTBAHNHOF CLUB
MACONDO Popular with students and others in their 20s/30s, this well-run
Macondo was the setting of García Márquez’ novel 100 club set inside the former mail station next to Ostbahnhof has
Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical three dancefloors and an outdoor bar. The music varies nightly
atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful ‘reading café’. There’s depending on the party theme; everything from 90s, RnB and
old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday market, good rock to house and electro. Unlike other clubs in the area, this
coffee and original South American mate tea, sipped through is no overhyped favourite - you can simply expect to have a
a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI‑4, Gärtnerstraße 14, good time here. Also known for concerts and other events.
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 54 73 QStraße der Pariser Kommune 8, Friedrichshain, MS
59 43, info@mancondo-berlin.de, www.macondo-berlin. Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 698 12 80, www.postbahnhof.club.
de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW Open Fri, Sat 23:00-04:00. Admission €4-7,50.
42 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
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facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 43
Prenzlauer Berg
On a low hill northeast POCKET WALK: PRENZLAUER BERG
of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstraße from U-Bahn
old working-class district station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn
in the former East Berlin into beautiful Husemannstraße, which was already
that came through the war restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistraße
relatively unscathed. After where you’ll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead;
1989, the cool brigade enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its
pounced on the area, and courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Straße
houses that were once and amble down Lychenerstraße to pretty, café-lined
home to East German Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstraße west, turn left
punks were renovated down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn
in odes to pastel. The station to Eberswalder Straße; you’ll soon reach the
number of wine shops and popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Straße
young parents pushing with its excellent Wall Memorial.
pricey prams indicates the level of gentrification here. The
best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz,
Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer HOTEL
Berg’s best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre,
set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also PRECISE MYER’S
covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myer’s is an upmarket
west. private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms
overlooking the garden. On the ground floor, a tearoom
GETTING THERE has a pleasant summer terrace.QH‑2, Metzer Straße
The U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds onto Senefel- 26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49
derplatz and Eberswalder Straße, close to most attractions. 30 44 01 40, info@myershotel.de, www.myershotel.
From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstraße you can use tram de. 51 rooms (8 singles €75 - 135, 33 doubles €85
U Pankstr. Erich
M1 to Eberswalder Straße as well. U-Bahn station Bernauer -We 10 Premium €115 - 265).
Be

Behmstr. - ei185,
Schivelb 1 suite €195
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Prenzlauer Berg
Restaurants & Cafés
GERMAN
DIE SCHULE
Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk.
Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect
place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace
facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these
rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can
Die Schule
have all the German food classics, and even better: you
can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small
samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG‑2, RESTAURATION 1900
Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating
Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-die- photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and
schule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German
food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options.
METZER ECK Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at
Opened 1913, time seems to have stood still in the oldest the weekly market, and on Sundays to fill up at the all-
tavern in Prenzlauer Berg - and that’s the way the regulars you-can-eat breakfast buffet.QH‑2, Husemannstraße
like it. The Eck serves inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages, 1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49
Boulette (hamburger), and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes), 30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 -
and has a letter from artist Heinrich Zille to the first tavern 23:00. €-€€. TBSW
owner hanging on the back wall, as well as a savings box
that regulars once contributed to.QG‑2, Metzer Straße 33,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 442 76 FAST FOOD
56, info@metzer-eck.de, www.metzer-eck.de. Open 16:00 KONNOPKE’S IMBISS
- 01:00, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €. N­G­B­S The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts
in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those
spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss
is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like
a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin
wrapping).QG‑1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65,
www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
DAILY 11.00 – 24.00 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €.

INTERNATIONAL
FLEISCHLUST
A spot for those with healthy lust for flesh can grill ‘n chill.
Staff in 1930s outfits serve excellent steaks, cooked anything
from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the undecided,
there’s a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve into the
wine and cocktail menu.QH‑1, Pappelallee 36, Prenzlauer
Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 67 54 14,
Modern and light German food www.fleischlust-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - open end.
on Berlin‘s catwalk no.1 GUGELHOF
During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrification,
the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state:
KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN
Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made surprise
FON: (030) 78 00 89 5-50
visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; this
info@restaurant-die-schule.de is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian pizza. The
www.restaurant-die-schule.de atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.QH‑2, Knaackstraße
37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30
U2 Eberswalder Str. U8 Rosenthaler Platz 442 92 29, gugelhof@t-online.de, www.gugelhof.com.
Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 45
Prenzlauer Berg
SANTIAGO
ITALIAN This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a
PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI somewhat dodgy interior – leather sofas and glitzy girl
Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the statues that wouldn’t look out of place in a nightclub
service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel – but manages to get the punters in with a range of
of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is attractively priced offers like cocktails during the happy
highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due (before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). There’s an
Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG‑2, eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at
Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder weekends.QH‑2, Wörtherstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open
16:00 - 03:00.
JAPANESE WEINSTEIN
SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM An older crowd savours an evening of conversation and
Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor
this five-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki, the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better
California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All places to try the outstanding German whites that usually
sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any don’t make it out of the country and there’s also a selection
explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak of sherries.QH‑1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer
English.QH‑2, Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42,
Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 - weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open
23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€. 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.

CAFÉS @InYourPocket
ANNA BLUME
Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower
girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up WOHNZIMMER
coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts, If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe
it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is
reading. Intriguingly, it also sells flowers (Blume) from the ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDR-
connected shop next door – and the smell of coffee and era tables are constantly being shuffled to make room
fresh flowers combines very well.QH‑2, Kollwitzstraße 83, for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s coffee and
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 pastries in the morning.QH‑1, Lettestraße 6, Prenzlauer
87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00. Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 445 54 58,
www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00.
SCHALL UND RAUCH
‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet
on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar CLUBS
at night together with a variety of artists, students and GEBURTSTAGSKLUB
young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of this
hotel has modern and affordable double rooms.QG‑1, otherwise spacious cellar. Don’t miss the mad monthly drag
Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser party with Nina Queer. Like at many clubs in Berlin, you
Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de. have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.QH‑2, Am
Open 08:00 - 02:00. Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Schillingstraße,
tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open
Nightlife Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00.

SODA CLUB
BARS In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a
AUGUST FENGLER fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played
A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with a lesson
football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley) hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five dancefloors
too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get
the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups in for free until 01:00.QSchönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer
of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco, Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 443 151 55,
and funk in the small back dance room.QG‑1, Lychner info@sodaberlin.de, www.soda-berlin.de. Open , Thu
Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00
www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
46 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Prenzlauer Berg
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
KULTURBRAUEREI
Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century
brewery and you’ll eventually find an entryway into a
nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A
cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre
of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is filled with
bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only
thing you won’t find is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss
shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both
a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and
Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to
live bands.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52,
www.kulturbrauerei.de.

MUSEUMS
ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZEL’S MIETSHAUS
Raumerstr. 8 [Helmholtzplatz], 40301770
Gentrification has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg
apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating www.tausche.de
museum shows master carpenter Brunzel’s apartment
in its original state, with extensive information about its
construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid
living conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and
Berlin.QH‑1, Dunckerstraße 77, Prenzlauer Berg,
MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www. FASHION & SHOES
ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.de. Open 11:00 - 16:30. TAUSCHE TASCHEN
Closed Wed. Admission €2/1. Bags with exchangeable flaps in
over 100 different designs. Two
flaps are included and various insets
PARKS AND GARDENS equip the bag to suit any occasion.
MAUERPARK QH‑1, Raumerstraße 8, Prenzlau-
The immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery er Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße,
to speak of; this is an intensely used piece of former tel. +49 30 40 30 17 70, info@
border strip that’s especially busy on Sundays when it tausche.de, www.tausche.de.
hosts a flea market and the immensely popular Bearpit Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -
Karaoke (every second Sunday from 15:00), where 18:00. Closed Sun.
anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a crowd
of thousands.QG‑1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark. MARKETS
info. FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK
Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative
Shopping souvenirs and antiques - it’s all available (though not
particularly cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark flea market.
Arrive early to avoid the crowds.QG‑1, Bernauer Straße
BOOKS 63-64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Straße, tel. 0176
SHAKESPEARE & SONS 29 25 00 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00
An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun
Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language 09:00-15:00.
books as well as coffee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through
a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH‑1,
Raumerstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Full contents online:
Allee, tel. +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun berlin.inyourpocket.com
11:00 - 19:00.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 47
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Kreuzberg relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional Columbiadamm for access to the the former Tempelhof

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a long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise, Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg
en

.
tr.
ue

Reich Dorotheens Ra aden


Friedrichstr.

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Au
eB Strausberger Platz str.
r

tr.

xand
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Kreuzberg is aMITTE
perfectly safe district to wander through, and Rotes zins lum
at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through
str.

tr.
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str.
ns a
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tr.
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it’s all about backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting


n Lin de n s Klosterstr. s ‘little Istanbul’ to Oranienplatz and follow the park to

gs
u e
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r.
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tr.

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ten erstr.
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r.

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ger
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platz
elmst

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lln
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am

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Br

U
Str.

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r.

r Tor Behrenstr. Singers


eit

Ma
nd

ch e d u fer H Wa tr.
Franzö sis R o l a n
Jannowitzbrücke olzma lnerst
l
This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to
e

hle

rch
tstr.
Oberwall
Kurstr

L ic h
St

Französische Str. U Spree rkts r.


Br

Jägerstr.

lew
r.

S Rü
üd

ust tr.
Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof

Krau
café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn

str.
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Glinkastr.

de
ers
Maue

skis
.

ial r.
str.

pen
markt Taubenstr. t rsd
Fis

lls
tr.

r.
n-

r
Wa Langestr. or f
airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into

ise
kenst

Tauben- Stadtmitte

tr.
U Hausvogteiplatz

Kop
ch
Kolmar

Markgrafen-

straude

er
Wilh

rstr.

N K k
str. Runge- St Wede
eri

wa ie urs

Par
Mohren- U

str.
l d t st r. W
in summer, and the upcoming Neukölln district. Here, l r. Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street
Ho
str. er-
ns

U Mohrenstr. U r.
.

str. ma rie
rtr

Brüc
str.

Märkisches Museum

Andreas
elms

el

Ka ze

lz
-Str.

er
. r
Ge

str. s tr k r n
Kronen
the Kreuzkölln area around Reuterstraße is increasingly Wall Jak tr.
o sb tst
art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across Ostbahnhof ree er

ed
Mohrenstr. Spittelmarkt U
Roß
Ne str.

r. ue r. Am
Leipziger St
Wr
hstr.

Se
tr.

Ne Köp Os S ie

ß
ue

yde Kar zene


attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird r. enic Landwehrkanal into the trendy ‘Kreuzkölln’ district for tba

Stra
er Leipziger Str. lstr. bstHeinrich-Heine-Str. U Str
lkirc

ker a hnh ree r

He
r. lau
tr.

Krausenst o
Friedrich-

An Str. er P f

ls
ko

nightlife spots. cupcakes and cocktails.


er-S
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hae
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str. tr.

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uer

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te

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r bor di- .


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nric

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ck-
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hle
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r e str.
ch
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n
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be
an

lter
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ns

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h
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r.
rdam

n n d a m
chne m

m
tr.

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tr.

tr.

ener
r.

Ea
Leugs iendam
ens

st S
str.

r Ritt Moritzplatz
tr.

a
rgeS Anhalter Bahnhof
erst ide

Tam
Mariannen-
hns
kler


Str.

Wa
Lind

r.
str.

U ldem pe Ga
lstr.

platz
str.

ller
a
Str.

Püc

r. nic
Le

arst
enb

y
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eck

r.
Str

rS
t-

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lber

ran
Lob

er-Str. tr.
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es

s tl N aun g en
ün platz Mu els
tr.

str.

u
em

Ma

K
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Kreuzberg
Restaurants & Cafés PAGODE
Simply one of the best
Thai restaurants in town.
GERMAN It feels crowded, steamy
ALTES ZOLLHAUS and noisy, but that’s just
A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs part of the authentic self-
house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a service atmosphere; wait
calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open
featuring things such as goat’s cheese, dumplings, mustard kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are flown
sauce and compotes.QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg, in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s
MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.altes- seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as
zollhaus.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße
TUGBW 88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30
691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 -
24:00. €. VBS
ASIAN
CHAN KIMCHI PRINCESS
A sleek eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, clean- Though this is not Berlin’s first Korean restaurant, Kimchi
cut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical Princess is being hailed by the capital’s gourmets as the
Asian street food. There’s everything from Thai spring first one to serve authentic dishes – that is, not drowned
rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. It’s indeed
Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be difficult to
too.QH‑5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Kreuzberg, MU find a free table in the evening.QH‑4, Skalitzer Straße 36,
Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 69 53 33 22, www.chan- Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02
berlin.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€.
€€. UNGBSW TUGBSW

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 49


Kreuzberg

THAIRESTAURANT

traditional healthy Thai cuisine Sarod’s

fresh and dainty KIM QUI


The popular ‘golden turtle’ serves authentic Vietnamese
food in pleasant surroundings at incredibly good prices,
with delicious hot pho soup dishes. Hot and cold rice
and noodle meals are complemented by fruity shakes
and exotic ice cream desserts.QF‑2, Oranienstraße 168,
Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 27 58 31 68,
www.kim-qui.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00,
Sun 16:00 - 24:00. €. T­N­G­B­S

KINNAREE THAI
Named after a mythological creature representing female
beauty and grace, Kinnaree is a friendly and affordable Thai
restaurant serving everything from Satay Gai chicken skewers
in peanut sauce to spicy green curry with shrimps and
bamboo. There’s a range of cocktails and quality wines too.
QSüdstern 14, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 57 79 41 99, www.
kinnaree-thai.de. Open 12:00–23:00, Sat 13:00–23:00.

SAROD’S
Kreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent,
healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options on
the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat with roast
rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good selection of wines
too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße,
tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.sarods.de. Open 12:00 -
24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. TGBSW

AUSTRIAN
AUSTRIA
Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte
where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner
restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in

Open daily 12:00-24:00 the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting
is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and
antlers on the wall.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 30, Kreuzberg,
Sundays from 14:00 MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www.
austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUBS
Friesenstraße 22 JOLESCH
tel. 69 50 73 33 Excellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner of
www.sarods.de Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant, is
named after ‘Tante Jolesch’, a Viennese auntie who loved to
50 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Kreuzberg
cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well as dishes like
goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, chopped-up pancakes with
sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is served until 17:00, so take
your time for brunch. Reservations recommended.QH‑4,
Muskauer Straße 1, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof,
tel. +49 30 612 35 81, www.jolesch.de. Open 11:00 -
24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. €€. GB

FAST FOOD
CURRY 36
If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, you’ll
Fantastic Berliner Currywurst,
order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in
comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you
quality organic and vegan snacks,
might earn an iota of respect from the hard-boiled Fraus
who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin specialities
and a range of hot chili sauces.
you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables are the fried
burgers, Boulette.QF‑5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg,
MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www.
curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. €. S
Open daily 12:00-24:00
BERGMANN CURRY Sunday 12:00-21:00
A friendly fast food joint with qual-
ity organic Currywurst, fries, meat Bergmannstraße 88
balls and more. The menus include
the upmarket ‘Rockefella’ dish Berlin-Kreuzberg
(served on porcelain, with a glass
of champagne), and there’s vegan
www.bergmann-curry.com
wurst and burgers, and sweet
potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot
chilli sauce from the bottles on the ‘board of pain’.QBerg- service, atmosphere and cheep prices.QI‑4, Schlesische
mannstraße 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmann- Straße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30
curry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 69 56 66 73, www.amar-berlin.de. Open 11:30-01:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. €€. T­U­N­G­B­S

GLÜCK TO GO SWERA
This unusual fast-food restaurant was inspired by a trip to Right on Kreuzberg’s popular Bergmannstrasse, Swera is
India’s Gujarat province and serves happiness to go: delicious an authentic Indian restaurant with a range of dishes from
protein-rich vegetarian/vegan burgers, fries with ayurvedic the subcontinent, including many vegetarian and vegan
spices, and healthy juice concoctions; all home-made with options. On weekdays, there’s a filling business lunch
organic and regionally sourced ingredients. The delicious offer from €4,50 including a wide range of curries. Swera
Orient Express burger has beet root, spices and special date also doubles as a cocktail bar, serving exotic drinks till
chutney, and there’s three other burgers to choose from. late at night; arrive in time for happy hour for good deals.
Finish off with a low-fat Shrikhand yoghurt. Set menus QBergmannstr. 103, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
from €6-8,50.QF‑5, Friesenstraße 26, Kreuzberg, MU tel. +49 30 61 20 33 01, res.swera@gmx.de, www.swera.
Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 623 10 04, www.glueck-to- de. Open 11:00 - 01:00.
go.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-20:00. €. B
INTERNATIONAL
INDIAN ANKERKLAUSE
AMAR The bohemians that hang out here are late-risers who come to
A large, cosy restaurant with modern furnishings, Indian watch the Turkish market unfold and witness how peacefully
elements and big windows overlooking the terrace, filled gulls, swans and cruise boats can co-exist. On a good day, the
with eating locals and visitors in summertime. Amar French toast with fruit can come out looking like it’s auditioning
serves attractive Indian weekday lunch menus from just for the Waldorf-Astoria’s buffet. The Mexican breakfast will
€4.40, and delicious dinner courses, just as spicy as you tide you over for two meals.QH‑5, Kottbusser Damm 104,
need it to be. After dinner, the cocktail menu usually Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 30 693 56 49,
convinces the young clientele to stay longer. One of the www.ankerklause.de. Open 10:00-04:00, Mon 16:00-
most famous and beloved Restaurant for good food, 04:00. €. T­U­N­G­B
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 51
Kreuzberg
CICCIOLINA
WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE Dedicated to divas such as Jeff Koon’s porn star ex-wife La
Within a historic market hall Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits
building, the rustic Markthalle adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious Italian
restaurant is long and tall, with restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food, and a great
wainscoting, simple wooden terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try the Strasburgo
furniture and a bar that locals belly flammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard and Tirol bacon.
up to. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t QH‑4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer
let its looks carry it: the kitchen Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60, www.cicciolina-berlin.
takes pride in its nouvelle takes de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €-€€. TUNGBSW
on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes
weekly, but count on Spätzle, Schweinebraten (braised GORGONZOLA CLUB
pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest
American-style, and as late as 16:00. After dinner, check carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the green
if anything is going down in the Auster Club in the cellar. outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas
QH‑4, Pücklerstraße 34, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurant- additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner
markthalle.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. B cocktails simply go next door to the Würgeengel bar.QH‑4,
Dresdener Straße 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor,
HOPPETOSSE tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open
An elegant white ship moored along Treptow’s Arena 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €. B
complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional and
international meals to go with good sunset views towards OSTERIA N°1
Oberbaumbrücke bridge, just upstream. For daytime visitors Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a fantastic
there’s drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit up on deck to catch Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic
the sea breeze.QI‑5, Eichenstraße 4, Treptow, MU regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from different parts of
Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 40, www.arena- Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta
berlin.de. Open 12:00-23:00. €-€€. N­G­B­S­W with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps
the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six
VAN LOON different lunch menus from €7.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße 71,
Where better to eat fish than at this lovely restaurant Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62,
ship, moored in the peaceful Urbanhafen habour on the www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. B
Landwehrkanal: the downstairs lounge has large windows,
but the view’s better from the sundeck. There’s salmon, SALE E TABACCHI
herring and smoked fish specialities as well as a range of This attractive restaurant with a nice garden and real Italian
special fish & chips. The daily menu has meat, vegetarian waiters is a good option near Checkpoint Charlie, and is
and vegan meals too.QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 7, Kreuzberg, not far from the Jewish Museum either. There’s a good-
MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 62 93, www.vanloon. value lunch on weekdays, plus a wide range of imaginative
de. Open 09:00-01:00. €€. T­E­N­G­B­W pasta, meat and fish dishes.QF‑4, Rudi-Dutschke-Str.
25, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 252 11 55,
reservierung@sale-e-tabacchi.de, www.sale-e-tabacchi.
ITALIAN de. Open 10:00 - 23:30. €€-€€€. TGBSW
NEW
+39 PIÙTRENTANOVE TRENTASEI
Plus 39 is what you dial to reach Italy - but a corner of that Try home-made tortellini, regional ingredients, Italian
country can be found right next to Berlin’s Kreuzberg Park. wines and fresh fish specialities at Trentasei, referring to
Italian chefs dish up great XXL pizza, fresh pasta, risotto, the ‘36’ nickname for this part of the district. The warmly-lit
homemade bread and other delicacies.QMöckernstraße interior has a cabin feel, with plenty of brick and wood, plus
73a, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 70 09 42 06, info@plus39. old-fashioned chairs around the tables.QSkalitzer Str. 34,
de, www.restaurant-berlin-kreuzberg.de. Open 11:30 - Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 69 50 69 30, info@trentasei.de,
00:00. www.trentasei.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.

CALIGARI
A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez JAPANESE
neighbourhood of Neukölln, with freshly made pasta, RICE UP
soups, salads and deserts. They’re planning Supper Club A tiny onigiri kiosk on the platform of the U-Bahn station
nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things could sells delicious organic bento box take-away meals,
happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neukölln, tel. +49 30 52 64 consisting of nori seaweed, rice and various fillings: vegan,
98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00 - 23:00. veg, fish or chicken. There’s coffee, chai, lemonade and
52 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Kreuzberg
smoothies too. Also in Mitte, at Friedrichstraße 114.QH‑5,
Kottbusser Damm (Schönleinstraße U-Bahn station), CAFÉS
Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 151 50 10 13 CAFÉ AM ENGELBECKEN
88, www.rice-up.de. Open 07:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michael’s
Closed Sun. €. S church is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that
was once a canal. Hidden away at the reedy edge
of the pond is a sunny terrace café. View of the water
BEER GARDENS and the rustling tall green reeds makes this a peaceful
DAS EDELWEISS respite from all things city while still being near the
The goods platform of the old Görlitzer Bahnhof train heart of Kreuzberg (and can you believe this area was
station now serves as a lovely deck-chaired terrace for the once filled with rubble, and part of the Wall’s death
Edelweiss restaurant and café. There’s all-day breakfast, strip?). Pizza and snacks are served and they offer a
great German cuisine with seasonal and regional products, choice of cocktails.QH‑4, Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte,
drinks, and live Jazz sessions on Tuesday nights. It’s especially MU Heinrich-Heine-Straße, tel. +49 157 88 94 70 91,
well-positioned for people-watching; Görlitzer Park www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €.
attracts Berlin’s most varied crowd.QH‑5, Görlitzerstraße TUNGBSW
1-3 (Görlitzer Park), Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof,
tel. +49 30 61 07 48 58, www.edelweiss36.com. Open CAFÉ RIX
09:30-02:00. €€. T­U­E­B­W A fabulous café that’s completely worth the trek out to
Berlin’s shabbiest and most multicultural neighbourhood.
GOLGATHA Many entertainment halls were built in this part of town,
The most gruesome end you’ll meet at this Biergarten at the attracting thousands of Berliners at weekends. Rix is
southwest end of Viktoriapark is the sunrise. Those watching one of the last remaining entertainment halls in the
their melanoma sit under the red umbrellas near the table- area, dating from 1880 and all gold twirls, high ceilings
football and grill, while sunbathers go to the rooftop for a and big mirrors. It’s just perfect for sipping coffee and
view of the playground and football field. DJ music begins munching on cake, or for a well-prepared meal. Combine
most nights at 22:00 inside on the small dance floor.QF‑5, it with a concert at the adjacent Heimathafen or a visit
Katzbachstraße (Viktoriapark), Kreuzberg, MU Platz der to Rixdorf’s old village square and the lush Körnerpark.
Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 785 24 53, www.golgatha-berlin. QKarl-Marx-Straße 141, Neukölln, MU Karl-Marx-
de. Open from 10:00. €. TUBSW Straße, tel. +49 30 686 90 20, www.caferix.de. Open
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
€€. TUNGBSW
BEER HOUSES
NEW KUCHENKAISER
DOLDEN MÄDEL BRAUGASTHAUS A melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since
A fun little brewery bar named after hop flowers, with 20 1866, the “cake emperor” is famous for its cakes and tarts,
craft beers on tap and many more great beers in bottles - which were sent exclusively by the Hindenburg to New
everything from Pilsener, IPA, Belgian beers and Trappist to York in the 1920s. The restaurant also has a wide variety of
Bock. Order the full board for 5 samplers of their best beers. German specialities and international dishes. There’s a great
There’s also cider and wine, and the varied food menu lists choice of breakfasts, a low-cost lunch, and a huge brunch
meals and snacks from steak and schnitzel to vegetarian on Sundays. A must-see in Berlin.QG/H‑4, Oranienplatz
dishes.QMehringdamm 80, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 77 32 11-13, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 61 40 26
62 13, info@doldenmaedel.de, www.doldenmaedel.de. 97, www.kuchenkaiser.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
Open 11:30 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:30. 09:00 - 01:00. €€. B

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 53


Kreuzberg
SALON SCHMÜCK delay your departure. To round it all off, there are Cuban
A crash-pad style neighbourhood café that looks like a and other cigars to enjoy.QH‑4, Dresdener Straße 122,
time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The food Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 55 60,
is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast, lunch and www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00. €€. B
fantastic home-made juice - just make your own selection
of fruit. Come evening and there are cocktails and DJs, and
even the occasional living room concert.QI‑4, Skalitzer CLUBS
Straße 80, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 JUNCTION BAR
30 69 00 47 75, www.salon-schmueck.de. Open 09:00- Squeezing onto the bat-cave of a stage is fine for a four-
02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-05:00. €. T­N­G­B­S­W man blues band, but dios mio for the ten-piece Afro-
Cuban ensembles. Live music draws an ethnically and
Nightlife generationally mixed audience every night of the week.
After the band, a DJ keeps everyone tight on the dance
floor.QF‑5, Gneisenaustraße 18, Kreuzberg, MU
BARS Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 66 02, www.junction-
FREISCHWIMMER bar.de. Open 20:00-04:00. E­N­G­B
After a five-minute walk south of Schlesisches Tor, follow
the bush-lined pathway left after the petrol station to this SO36
peaceful bar that hovers over a side canal. In summer use Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution
the comfy deck lounges; in cooler weather heat lamps help that’s home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks and
keep away the chill.QI‑5, Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a, metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans. On popular
Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 07 43 club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party or Gayhane, show
09, www.freischwimmer-berlin.de. Open Mo-Fri from up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the friendly door
12:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. TUENGBW staff.QH‑4, Oranienstraße 190, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www.so36.de. Check
GALANDER their website for opening times. UENG
A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style fauteuils
and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander has an excellent WATERGATE
selection of wine and can mix some quite unusual cocktails for This club right on the edge of the Spree River is great for spying
you. Occasionally the piano is played too. Recommended for on Universal Music headquarters across the water, even if the
a quality night out.QF‑4, Grossbeerenstraße 54, Kreuzberg, crowd here would never dance to their pop artists. Also in view
MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www. (and right next door) is the turreted Oberbaumbrücke, which
galander-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E makes an odd backdrop to techno, house, or any guest DJ on
the upper or lower dance floors.QI‑4, Falckensteinstraße
MILCHBAR 49, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 28 03
It is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of 94, www.water-gate.de. Open Wed, Fri, Sat from 24:00.
Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative Admission €8-12. U­E­N­G­B
types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and hard
rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to cheer on WILD AT HEART
their teams when football games are screened. The murals Rock on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in
and dark décor can heighten your wooziness if you’ve hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an
had one round too many.QH‑4, Manteuffelstraße 41, occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front
Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611 70 06, rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs
www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00. NBW for the stage area.QH‑5, Wiener Straße 20, Kreuzberg,
MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.
ROSES wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB
It’s all so tactile here - both the fuzzy red walls and people
packed end to end in this tiny kitsch-o-mat. The music is
clubby and the upbeat energy makes it a good choice for JAZZ CLUBS
a solo night out. The ladies behind the bar are favourites YORCKSCHLÖSSCHEN
of Siegessäule, the local gay listings magazine.QH‑4, This Kreuzberg institution has been here for over a century,
Oranienstraße 187, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. gathering fame in the 1970s as an artists’ watering hole and
+49 30 615 65 70. Open 22:00-04:00. now a hub of local social life. There’s a busy bar that features
regular live music, with the emphasis on traditional jazz, swing
WÜRGEENGEL and black rhythm’n’blues. Concerts take place on Wed, Fri and
Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuel’s film Sat night and Sun afternoon. Diner here is very nicely priced.
El Ángel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a great place QF‑5, Yorckstraße 15, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a dozen tasty tel. +49 30 215 80 70, www.yorckschloesschen.de. Open
options, while the cocktail menu has over 50 reasons to 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 03:00. €€. T­E­B­S­W
54 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Kreuzberg

Martin-Gropius-Bau Berliner Festspiele


© INAH. Regionalmuseum Chiapas, Tuxtla Gutiérrez
Weihrauchgefäß mit Darstellung von Gott Xolotl

Wed - Mon 10am - 7pm, closed on Tue


Admission free up to the age of 16

www.gropiusbau.de

MGB16_MAYA_Anz_iyp_124x91mm_4c_RZ.indd 1 24.05.16 14:17

Sightseeing HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE


A homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks,
tools, videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunnel-
MUSEUMS digging attest to necessity and desire being the mother
DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM of invention. Visit this museum for dramatic stories of
One of Berlin’s best museums is unmistakably recognisable separated lovers, freedom-seeking families, and fed-
by the Douglas C‑47 plane suspended above the main up senior citizens in the GDR who breached the Wall.
building. The huge complex set in and around an old The museum also has art interpreting the concrete division
freight station rail depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes, of the city, and an exhibit on human rights movements.
computers, phones, radios and much more. Outside there QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 43-45, Kreuzberg, MU
are windmills and a brewery. There’s a hands-on Spectrum Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 251 20 75, www.mauermuseum.
science centre for children too.QF‑4, Trebbiner Straße de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission €12,50/9,50.
9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40,
www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JÜDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN
Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,5. The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel
Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many
GAME SCIENCE CENTER ways in which German life and Jewish history are
The new Game Science Center is a small, interactive intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’ for
museum of the future, run by a team of game contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than
developers. Introducing a number of innovative the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF‑4,
technologies and playful projects, visitors can Lindenstraße 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel.
learn about and try many new ways to interact +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00 -
with computers - for example with gestures or eye 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2,50, special
movements. Try out the Oculus Rift VR glasses, the exhibitions €4/2, combined ticket €7/3,50.
Nagual Dance installation, or play table tennis with
the computer in Pong Invaders.QCharlottenstr. 1,
Kreuzberg, www.gamesciencecenter.de. Open 11:00 youtube.com/inyourpocket
- 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission €14/8.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 55
Kreuzberg
Europe. The most important lesson to take home is perhaps
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU that these organisation only managed to thrive thanks to the
Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this continuous cooperation of many institutes and citizens. Set
is the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter ‘Bauhaus’ aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF‑4, Niederkirchnerstraße
Gropius. Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an arts 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 25 45 09 50,
and crafts museum. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts www.topographie.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
excellent touring exhibitions. Until 10 August: David Bowie.
QF‑4, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Pots-
damer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de. PARKS & GARDENS
Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT
Berlin’s most amazing space is this historic and wide open
TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed in 2008 and
Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars are was opened as a park in 2010. Now the runways and taxi
all that remain of the palace housing the Reich Security lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters and kiteboarders.
(SS) Office. The fascinating exhibition in the trench and the There’s even a Biergarten at the northern end. Note
adjacent pavilion and park uses models, texts and photos to that turnstiles allow exit from the park after closing
highlight the topography of the Third Reich police, military time as well. Also easily accessed from U-Bahn stations
and security groups that were headquartered in this area, and Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse.QF/G‑6, Columbiadamm,
discusses their organisation and the terror they cast across MS/U Tempelhof, www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open
March 06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May &
Aug 06:00-21:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00-
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU: 19:00, Dec, Jan 07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00.
Admission free.
THE MAYA
VIKTORIAPARK
Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich
Schinkel’s memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the
corner of Kreuzbergstraße and Großbeerenstraße for an
eyeful of the park’s waterfall, constructed in the late 19th
century. Kids stripped to their knickers wade in between
the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres above, people lean
back against the graffiti-laden monument to take in
the panoramic view. Towards the back of the park, past
a playground and off the Bacci field, is the Golgotha
beer garden. Running parallel to Kreuzbergstraße is a
small petting zoo where children and goats get to meet
and bleat.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße, Kreuzberg, MU
Ballspieler Mehringdamm.
© INAH. Museo Nacional de Antropología, Mexiko Stadt
The new exhibition “The Maya - Language of Beauty” is
all about the magnificent artistic forms of expression of Shopping
the Maya, one of the oldest cultures in the world. With
a collection of around 300 works of art, including many BOOKS
Mexican national treasures, it displays the fundamental BUCHHANDLUNG MORITZPLATZ
aspects of pre-Hispanic art: the body and the physique A good selection of quality books on Berlin, literature, art
are central to this exhibition. The Maya present their and architecture. The wonderful Aufbau Haus also has
vision of life using materials and techniques from their artist’s equipment and a café.QG‑4, Prinzenstraße 85
daily life, splendid buildings and works of art. They (Aufbau Haus), Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 61 67 52 70, www.
describe their relationship with gods, their everyday buchhandlung-moritzplatz.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
existence, their literature, their astronomy, their music 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
and their dances. What often dominates these works
is an idealised notion of humanity, which the Maya
retained not only in their conception of humans and FASHION AND SHOES
the ideal of beauty, but also in the location of mankind KONZEPT86
in the cosmos. A concept store inside the hip The Wye art house, with
Until 7 August unique and high-quality clothes for women and men,
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, accessories and shoes by Berlin-based designers.QH‑4,
tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de. Skalitzer Straße 86 (The Wye), Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer
Bahnhof, contact@konzept86.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00.
56 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
City tours

B ERLINER U NTERWELTEN E.V.


Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture

Berlin from below


Cold War and WW II bunker tours
Different underground tours • Mar – Nov daily • Dec – Feb Thur – Mon •
Subway Gesundbrunnen (U8), Brunnenstr. 105 • www.berliner-unterwelten.de

Anzeige
There’s in your
a story pocketcorner
on every 2011.indd 1 though you’ll need
in Berlin, the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on 16.02.15 08:52
or hop-off
a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city and attractions as you like. There’s also a narrated ‘Wall & Lifestyle’ tour taking
are fairly far-flung, so plan your itinerary well. If you’re here in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49
for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you 30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets €15/12/5.
join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings.
CITY CIRCLE BUSES
Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off
BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours.
BERLIN CITY TOUR Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen
Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about languages. Kurfürstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are
two hours; the green ones have live English commentary; the two main starting points, but you can get on and off at
red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfürstendamm 14, some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are Berliner

BERLIN UNDERWORLDS Tour M, Breaching the Berlin Wall: subterranean


escapes from East Berlin to West Berlin.
Unterwelten also has a fascinating seasonal exhibition
about the Nazi’s megalomanic plans to turn Berlin into the
Welthauptstadt Germania, the ‘World Capital City’, with
documents, photos and models. The multimedia exhibition
“Myth of Germania – Vision and crime” allows visitors to
peek inside Hitler’s mind and explore the complex topic of
his city planning , and see what came of the plans.
BERLINER UNTERWELTEN, Brunnenstraße 105
(Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station, southern entrance),
‘Berlin Underworlds’ allows you to experience Berlin’s tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17. Tours €11/9, tour M €14/11.
history from an unusual perspective, through its No reservation required, but check tour times and
underground installations dating back to the Cold War, languages online at www.berliner-unterwelten.de.
World War II and earlier. “Myth of Germania” exhibition open Apr-Oct, Thu-
Though predominantly in the spaces below Berlin´s Sun 11:00-18:00, Nov-Mar Sat & Sun 11:00-16:00,
Gesundbrunnen station, tours are also offered in several admission €6/5, €3 in combination with a tour,
other complexes usually not accessible to the public. The www.mythos-germania.de.
following tours are held in English; check the website for
all dates and times, and for tours in German, Spanish,
Dutch, French, Italian and Danish. Tours take 90 minutes,
the M tour is 2 hours.
Tour 1, Dark Worlds: a bunker from the Nazi era.
Tour 2, From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris:
visit the the rubble-filled Humboldthain Flak Tower, a
devastated albeit fascinating underground world.
Tour 3, Subways, Bunkers, Cold War: a political history
of Berlin from an unusual perspective.

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 57


City tours
Bären Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX Sightseeing FAT TIRE BIKE TOURS
(www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus Verkehr Grab a bike at the base of the TV Tower and spin through
Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www. town on the relaxed 4,5 hour daily city tour (11:00, from
berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets €22/11. May also 16:00), the Wall tour (Mon, Thu, Sat at 10:30),
Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) €16,50/11. the Third Reich tour (Wed, Fri, Sun at 10:30) and the Raw
tour (counter culture; Tue, Fri, Sun at 10:30); these tours
cost €24/22 and no booking is required. Call or email
WALKING & CYCLING TOURS ahead for the Potsdam tour.QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a
ALTERNATIVE BERLIN TOURS (Fernsehturm), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30
After the 4-hour Real Berlin tour (daily at 12:00, €12) 24 04 79 91, www.fattirebiketoursberlin.com.
you’ll know all about Berlin’s subcultures, the graffiti and
stencil art, street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the INBERLIN TOURS
gay scene, and the squatter and anti-fascist movements. Specialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall
Knowledgeable resident artists poke at Berlin’s dark, in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer
fuzzy underbelly on a variety of walks; there are also Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at fixed
free short walks (daily at 11:00 and 13:00), twilight times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations
tours, a street art workshop and an ‘anti-pubcrawl’. required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, info@inberlin.de,
QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162 819 82 64, www. www.inberlin.de. Tickets €10-16.
alternativeberlin.com. Tickets €10-20.
INSIDER TOURS
ANITA SIKORA’S BERLIN WALKS Insider’s enthusiastic guides go a long way to make you feel
The walking tours by guide and artist Anita Sikora offer a like an insider on the daily 4-hour tours; starting from AMT
wide choice of topics, ranging from David Bowie and Walter Coffee at Hackescher Markt (10:30 and 15:00, €12/10). Other
Benjamin themed tours, walks around the Pankow district, tours are the Wall, Third Reich, Sachsenhausen, Potsdam,
to the Wall’s course through the industrial ‘Fireland’ district. Jewish Berlin and a pub crawl.QG‑3, MS Hackescher
Join a regular group walk or book a private tour.Qtel. +49 Markt, tel. +49 30 692 31 49, www.insidertour.com.
176 68 60 16 63, anitaeva75@gmail.com, www.anita-
sikora.com. Tours €9. ISHERWOOD’S NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR
In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable ‘Sodom on the Spree’
BERLIN LOCALS with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous
Tailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by club and revue theatre scene - in explosive political
limo, lead by local German historians who can often relate circumstances. The young gay British writer Christopher
historical events to their family’s personal experience. Tour Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye To Berlin
themes range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich (of Cabaret movie fame). This excellent one-hour tour
to street art, railways and architecture. The guides are also through Isherwood’s Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is
licenced for Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are spiced up with quotes and references to notorious 1920s
in English or German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, info@ party-goers like Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich.
berlinlocals.com, www.berlinlocals.com. Tours €40 per QD‑4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03
hour, €250 per day. 42, brendan@10777tours.com, www.cabaret-berlin.
com. Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand. Book ahead.
BREWER’S BERLIN Tickets €15.
The 6-hour Best of Berlin (10:30) and the 3-hour Express
(13:00, tip only) tours are great introductions to the ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKS
city. Potsdam tours take place on Wed and Sat (09:20). The daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the
The meeting point for all tours is the Bandy Brooks ice Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at
cream shop near Friedrichstraße station; no bookings 10.30 and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third
are required.QF‑3, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 Reich, Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.
177 388 15 37, www.brewersberlintours.com. Tickets Qtel. +49 30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets
€15/12. €12/10.

CITY SEGWAY TOURS SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURS


Hop on a self-balancing Segway scooter and - after The Berlin blog dedicated to ‘slow travel’ offers quirky
a short driving lesson - zip around Berlin on the four- cultural-historical tours. In small groups you explore
hour general tours (10:00 and 15:00, €67), or the shorter Berlin’s most fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in
afternoon tour (15:00, €43). Drivers license required.QG‑3, West Berlin, a walk on Kreuzberg’s wild west side, a trip
Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. along the Wall, down lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march
+49 30 24 04 79 91, berlin@citysegwaytours.com, www. through Kaiser Wilhelm’s Berlin.Qwww.slowtravelberlin.
citysegwaytours.com. com/tours. Tickets €15.

58 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


River tours
After flowing a bucolic 400km from the Czech border
region to Berlin, the river Spree goes out with a bang before
disappearing into the Havel near Spandau. Cutting a curvy
passage through Berlin, it provides tremendous views of
the Dom cathedral, the Reichstag and the government
district and the Berlin Wall near Ostbahnhof. Some of the
Spree is diverted along park-lined canals, and Berlin has
more bridges than Venice or Amsterdam.

Short city centre cruise tours depart regularly from the


boat landings near the Museumsinsel, Friedrichstraße,
Hauptbahnhof station and the Haus der Kulturen der Welt
in the park. The 3.5-hour Brücke (bridges) tours cruise past
all the city centre sights, down Landwehrkanal and past the CHARTERTRIPS ON
beautiful Oberbaumbrücke. Here we list your options with HISTORICAL BOATS
English narration. Sail away.
... e.g. Moonlight-Trips with
Aphrodite or Oskar
10245 Berlin-Stralau, near Tunnelstrasse 36
Tel. (030) 246 47 99 60
www.schiffskontor.de

MS SCHIFFSKONTOR
Rent an antique boat and sail just about anywhere on
Berlin’s waterways. There’s the rustic open-top Oskar
Pocket-Guide-60x90-E 1 30.05.12 11:34
from 1930, or rent the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink APP
beauty from 1950 in which you’ll look dashing with
dark sunglasses and a flowing scarf.Qtel. +49 30 246
47 99 60, www.schiffskontor.de.

BERLINER WASSERTAXI
One-hour tours of the main sights in the city centre, with
departures every 30 minutes from Zeughaus, next to the
Historisches Museum, and from Domaquareé opposite
the Berliner Dom church.Qtel. +49 30 658 802 03, info@
berlinerwassertaxi.de, www.berlinerwassertaxi.de.
Tickets €14/10.

REEDEREI WINKLER
Winkler’s one-hour Stadtrundfahrt tours depart up to
10 times daily from beside Friedrichstraße station. The
3-3.5 hour Spreefahrt river tours from Schlossbrücke in
Charlottenburg take in the river beyond the city centre
sights. There are evening departures too, and check
the website for the special culinary and party cruises.
QF‑3, Reichstagufer jetty, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 349 95 95, www.
reedereiwinkler.de. Tickets: Stadtrundfahrt €12,50/10-
11,50, Spreefahrt €19-21,50/17-19,50.

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket June - July 2016 59


ENTERTAINMENT
Directory & Street Register HIGHLIGHTS
BB PROMOTION GMBH IN ASSOCIATION WITH KONGENDO CO. LTD PRESENTS

Die neue Show


KAIKI-TEN

12. – 17.07.16 · Komische Oper Berlin


www.yamato-show.de
BB Promotion GmbH and
Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo present

19. - 24.07.16 · Komische Oper Berlin


www.les-ballets-trockadero.de

TICKETS: 030 - 479 974 99 ∙ 01806 - 10 10 11* ∙ www.bb-promotion.com


60 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
*0,20 €/Anruf aus dem Festnetz,Mobilfunk max. 0,60 €/Anruf
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Index
+39 piùtrentanove 52 Dressler 35 Kaffee Burger 24 Roter Salon 24
Aapka 23 Duke 35 Kamala 21 Rotisserie Weingrün 20
Adlon Kempinski 30 Eastwood Berlin-Mitte 24 Kaufbar 42 Sachiko Sushi 36
Admiralspalast 11 Einhorn 35 Kempinski Bristol 39 Sale e Tabacchi 52
Adria 13 Eisbären Berlin 8 Keule 41 Salon Schmück 54
Aigner 22 El Dorado 36 Kilkenny Irish Pub 25 Samowar 36
Alba Berlin 8 Ellington Hotel 40 Kimchi Princess 49 San Diego Steakhouse 42
Alexa Centre 29 English Theatre Berlin 12 Kim Qui 50 Santiago 46
Alliiertenmuseum 39 Eschschloraque Rümschrümp 24 Kinnaree Thai 50 Sarod's 50
Alpenstueck 20 Eventim 11 Knese 33 Savoy Berlin 40
Alte Nationalgalerie 26 Facil 22 Koka 36 11 Schall und Rauch 46
Alternative Berlin Tours 58 Fat Tire Bike Tours 58 Komische Oper 11 Schaubühne 13
Altes Museum 26 FC Union Berlin 8 Konnopke's Imbiß 45 Schloss Charlottenburg 38
Altes Zollhaus 49 Fernsehturm 29 Konzept86 56 Schneeweiß 41
Amar 51 First Floor 34 Konzerthaus Berlin 11 Schnitzelei 34
Anita Sikora's Berlin Walks 58 Fischers Fritz 22 Kookaburra Comedy Club 13 Schöneberger Weltlaterne 33
Ankerklause 51 Fleischlust 45 Kuchenkaiser 53 Schwarzwaldstuben 20
Anna Blume 46 Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 47 Kulturbrauerei 47 Shakespeare & Sons 47
April 33 Francucci's 36 KunstHalle 29 Slow Travel Berlin Tours 58
Aufsturz 24 Französischer Dom 27 La Forchetta 36 SO36 54
August Fengler 46 Freischwimmer 54 Le Petit Royal 35 Soda Club 46
Austria 50 Friedrichstadt-Palast 12 Lutter & Wegner 22 Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm 40
Babylon Mitte 13 Füchse Berlin 8 Macondo 42 Sophieneck 23
Barcomi's Deli 23 Führerbunker 27 Mandala 31 Spielbank Berlin 22
Berghain 42 Galander 54 Marooush 36 Sporting Club Berlin
Bergmann Curry 51 Game Science Center 55 Marriott 30 Scharmützelsee 9
Berlin, Berlin 40 Geburtstagsklub 46 Martin-Gropius-Bau 56 Sputnik 13
Berlin City Tour 57 Gedächtniskirche 38 Matrix 42 Staatsoper im Schillertheater 11
Berliner Dom 27 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer 28 Mauerpark 47 Ständige Vertretung 20
Berliner Golf Club Gatow 9 Gemäldegalerie 28 Maximilians 20 Suksan 34
Berliner Golf- und Country Club Glory Duck 42 Mein Haus am See 24 Sushi Circle 23
Motzener See 9 Glück To Go 51 Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm 46
Berliner Wassertaxi 59 Golf Berlin Mitte 9 Europe 27 Swera 51
Berlinische Galerie 55 Golfclub Kallin 9 MeMu Menschen Museum 29 Swissôtel Berlin 40
Berlin Locals 58 Golf Club Pankow Berlin 9 Metzer Eck 45 Sylter Hof 40
Berlin Plaza 40 Golfclub Prenden 9 Milchbar 54 tausche Taschen 47
Black Box Cold War 27 Golfclub Stolperheide 9 Monsieur Vuong 21 Tempelhofer Freiheit 56
Blue Man Group 11 Golf in Wall 9 MS Schiffskontor 59 The Digital Eatery 24
Borchardt 22 Golf & Spa Resort Schloss Museum für Asiatische Kunst 39 The Gate 12
Brandenburger Tor 25 Wilkendorf 9 Museum für Film und Fernsehen The Harp 38
Brecht Keller 22 Golf- und Land-Club Berlin- 29 Tiergarten 39
Brewer's Berlin 58 Wannsee 9 Museum für Naturkunde 29 Tipi am Kanzleramt 12
Bröhan Museum 39 Golgatha 53 Mutter Hoppe 20 Topographie des Terrors 56
BR Volleys 8 Gorgonzola Club 52 Neues Museum 26 Traube 23
Buchhandlung Moritzplatz 56 Grand Hotel Esplanade 40 Neue Synagoge 25 Trentasei 52
Café am Engelbecken 53 Green Door 37 Nikolaiviertel 26 Union Jack 38
Café am Neuen See 36 Grenander Morning Glory 37 Nola's am Weinberg 23 Van Long 21
Café im Literaturhaus 36 Grüner Salon 24 Olympic Stadium 38 Van Loon 52
Cafe Kalwil 36 Gudrun Sjödén 30 Original Berlin Walks 58 VAU 22
Café Rix 53 Gugelhof 45 Osteria N°1 52 Viktoriapark 56
Caligari 52 Habermeyer 42 Ottenthal 34 VOX 23
Central Kino 13 Hackesche Höfe 13 Pagode 49 Waldorf Astoria 40
Chan 49 Halle Tanzbühne 13 Palace 40 Wall Panorama 29
Cicciolina 52 Hamburger Bahnhof 28 Panorama Café 21 Watergate 54
CineStar IMAX & Original 13 Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 55 Panoramapunkt 29 Week-End Club 24
City Circle Buses 57 Hefner 37 Papagena 11 Weihenstephaner 21
City Segway Tours 58 Hekticket 11 Paris-Moskau 22 Weinstein 46
C/O Berlin 39 Hertha BSC 8 Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz 31 Weltrestaurant Markthalle 52
Cocolo 23 Hilton 30 Pergamon Museum 26 Westin Grand 31
Crack Bellmer 42 Hinterm Horizont 12 Pizzeria i Due Forni 46 Wild at Heart 54
Cupcake Berlin 42 Hohmann Golf 9 Postbahnhof Club 42 Wintergarten Variété 12
Curry 36 51 Honigmond & Garden Hotels 31 Potsdamer Platz 25 Wohnzimmer 46
Daimler Contemporary Berlin 28 Hoppetosse 52 Precise Myer's 44 Würgeengel 54
Das Edelweiss 53 Hotel de Rome 30 Quatsch Comedy Club 13 Yorckschlösschen 54
Das Stue 39 Hugos 34 Reederei Winkler 59 Yosoy Tapas-Bar 23
DDR Museum 28 InBerlin Tours 58 Reichstag 26 Zillemarkt 34
Deutsche Oper Berlin 11, 14 Insider Tours 58 Reingold 24 Zille-Stube 21
Deutscher Dom 27 InterContinental 39 Reinhard's 23 Zimmermeister Brunzel's Mietshaus
Deutsches Currywurst Museum 27 Isherwood's Neighbourhood Tour Renger-Patzsch 33 47
Deutsches Historisches Museum 58 Restaurant Schlossgarten 33 Zum Nussbaum 21
28 Jolesch 50 Restauration 1840 20 Zur Letzten Instanz 21
Deutsches Technikmuseum 55 Jolly 21 Restauration 1900 45 Zwiebelfisch 37
Diekmann 35 Joseph Roth Diele 20 Rice Up 52 Zwölf Apostel 36
Die Schule 45 Jüdisches Museum Berlin 55 Ritter Sport ChocoWorld 30
Dolden Mädel Braugasthaus 53 Junction Bar 54 Roses 54

66 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Basim Magdy
The Stars Were Aligned
for a Century
of New Beginnings
29.4.—3.7.
© Basim Magdy

»Artist of the Year« 2016


Deutsche Bank KunstHalle
Unter den Linden 13/15, 10117 Berlin
10 am—8 pm, Mondays admission free; deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.com

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