Travel + Leisure 2014 12 Asia

Contents
Special
77
Cheers! Travel globally,

sip locally: sometimes all
you need is a refreshing
drink and a spirited crowd
to get an inside view of a
place and its culture. Go on,
raise your glasses2015
awaits with loads of new
adventures.
Features
P E T R I N A T I N S L AY
112 Diving into Sydney In

food-mad Australia, GA RY
SHTE Y NGA RT nds no end
of epic breakfasts and
late-night dinnersand,
of course, marsupials.
PHOTOGR A PHED BY
PE TR INA TINSL AY . GU IDE
PAGE
120
122 Artists Alone,

Together Bandung is a
conundrum of a cultural
capital: mesmerizing yet
modest, awash with
talent that hasnt
coalesced. J EFF CH U
attempts to toot the
Indonesian hill stations
horn. PHOTOGR A PHED BY
CEDR IC A R NOLD . GU IDE
A N D M A P PAGE 130
132 This is Burmas

Moment Its on the cusp of
great change, and theres
never been a better time to
go than now. BY A N DR E W
SOLOMON . PHOTOGR A PHED
BY FR DR IC L AGR A NGE .
GU IDE A N D M A P PAGE 142
144 Great Group Getaways
Our favorite places to
escape from it all, all
together. Gather the gang
for sailing trips, safaris,
slumber parties and more.
Sunset at the Sydney

Opera House, page 112.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
D E C E M B E R 2 014
Contents
34
44
32
27
Gallery on the Gulf

A lengthy art walk
takes over Waiheke
Island, New Zealand.
32
Twisted Tastes
Classic Singaporean
cuisine, modern edge.
34
A Beach Within
Reach Negombo, Sri
Lanka, near Colombo.
44
Cape Towns New

Core South African
cool on Bree Street.
48
Best of 2014 As the

region explodes with
glam hotels, innovative
eateries, funky shops
and luxe spas, heres a
few favorite new spots.
Trip Doctor
87
20 Ways to Travel
Better Trips, tricks
and expert advice.
99
Strategies Travel
Tech Awards for 2014.
104 The Worlds Best

Business Hotels
106 Deals
Decoder
152
152 Our Denitive

Guide to Beijing
Last Look
158 South Korea A
drone-captured
dreamland.
In Every Issue
T +L DIGI TA L
12
E D I T O R S N O T E
14
CON T R IBU T OR S
18
I N B OX
20
On the Cover
In Sydney, youre never far from
the water, in this case Bondi
Icebergs saltwater pool.
Photographer: Petrina Tinslay.
10
D E C E M B E R 2 014
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: I A N L L O Y D N E U B A U E R ; C O U R T E S Y O F K I R S T E N G O S S ; K O N S TA N T I N D I M O P O U L O S ; C H E R R Y L I ; C O U R T E S Y O F F L E E A W AY C A F
Radar
27
T+L Digital
Vacation Snaps
Our readers have been honing their photographic skills on

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issue now.
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This Months Top Lists

4 Must-Dos in Macau
3.
4.
Asias Best Seaside

Restaurants
6 Culinary Reasons to
Visit Sydney Now
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12
D E C E M B E R 2 014
tleditor@
mediatransasia.com
Editors Note
December 2014
Where Were
Going
Perth
Sumba Islands
Philippines
New Caledonia
The T+L Code While on assignment, Travel+Leisure editors and contributors travel incognito whenever possible. They also generally
do not accept free travel or take press trips; we will clearly identify any instances in which weve made an exception to this policy.
14
D E C E M B E R 2 014
N A P AT R A V E E W AT
WHERE TO FIND ME
chrisk@mediatransasia.com
@CKucway on Twitter
emember the rst morning you ever woke up in Sydney?

If youve never been to the city, then you really need to
start planning a visit. I recall pulling my hotel room
curtains back years ago and catching that rst glimpse of
the sweep from Sydney Harbour Bridge to the iconic
Opera House. Id seen the view in photos so often that I felt like Id been
there before. This foreign-yet-familiar feeling pervades Gary
Shteyngarts account of his visit (Diving into Sydney, page 112). His
antipodean adventure runs the gamut from downright weirdprimary
goal: hug a wombatto delicious (an eight-stop, one-night bar- and
restaurant-hop had better be), to intensely caffeinated. Warning: after
reading this story, youll want to book a ticket down under immediately.
Just as magical, but for entirely different reasons, is Burma, a nation
shuttered from the rest of the world for too long. In This is Burmas
Moment (page 132), Andrew Solomon and photographer Frdric
Lagrange offer a primer on the country that has vaulted to the top of
many must-see lists. As Solomon writes, Nothing ever happens when it
should; its amazing that the sun sets on schedule. But the clock is
ticking. The lesson is, visit now before too much changes.
No matter where youre heading next, 20 Ways to Travel Better
(page 87) provides handy suggestions to improve your trip. Among the
indispensable advice: how to get through customs faster, when to carry
on your luggage, and even how to keep your batteries charged.
As the year draws to a close, we laud the Best of 2014 (page 48). Our
annual review of openings highlights some favorite new spots for
everything around the region, from the next great restaurant in
Singapore to cocktails with aplomb in Bangkok.
On that note, lets toast to the coming year. May the stories in this
issue and those ahead help you to both improve your travels and create
some lasting memories. C H R I ST OPH E R K UC WAY
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Sofitel So Bang kok
CEST MAGNIFIQUE!
THE CHIC SOFITEL HOTEL BRAND MARKS ITS GOLDEN JUBILEE
WITH LUXURIOUS NEW PROPERTIES IN ASIA.
Sofitel So Bangkok
i
Sofitel Legend Metropol e Hano
nniversaries are a time to celebrate

and French luxury brand Sofitel
is ringing in its 50th with typical
panache. Sofitels decision to move its
marketing team from Paris to Singapore
as it reaches its half century puts Asia at
the heart of its plans. This means more
destinations for the luxury traveller to
choose from and even more hotels
that understand how to seamlessly
blend culture, gastronomy and design,
all infused with French elegance.
There are now over 40 elegant Sofitels
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across South East Asia from Thailand,
Cambodia and Laos to Vietnam and the
Philippines including flagship hotels
for the fashion-forward Sofitel So and
stately Sofitel Legend labels.
Whether its in the heart of a city, perched
on a beach or hidden away in the country,
Sofitel has a knack for creating hotels
that awaken all the senses. Take one of
the flagship resorts, the Sofitel Angkor
Phokeethra Golf and Spa Resort, as
an example. Here, guests can spend a
morning perfecting their swings on
Cambodias first championship golf
course before heading out to marvel at
ancient temple towers in Angkor Wat,
just 10 minutes away. In the evening,
they can indulge in the outstanding
French-Khmer fusion food at Mouhots
Dream before unwinding with an
Ayurvedic oil treatment in the So Spa.
Sipping an expertly mixed cocktail in a

moonlit cabana while gazing out over
Lumpini Park from the ninth floor lobby
of the Sofitel So Bangkok is a unique
experience hard to match in this City of
Angels. The hotel, exemplified by the
lobby, was designed as a one-of-a-kind
collaboration by Christian Lacroix and
five Thai design masters. Its a perfect
example of Sofitel Sos concept, wherein
the boutique brand invites the worlds
leading artists and designers and
pairs them with famous architects,
so together they can contemplate
contemporary design.
For something with a little more
mystique, enter the Legend collection.
Step into a fin-de-siecle-style suite in
Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanois colonial
heritage building, just steps from the
Opera House in Hanois French Quarter.
An award-winning flagship from the
brands Legend collection, the hotel
sets its refined experiences in centuriesold listed buildings bursting with
historical character.
On a constant look out for new addresses
that fully embrace the French art de vivre,
Sofitel will welcome two new hotels next
year Sofitel Luang Prabang and Sofitel
So Hua Hin.
Built in the early 20th century, the
23-room Luang Prabang property was
converted from the local governors
mansion. Beyond the windows, the fiery

hues of orange-robed monks dramatically
swish past the lush greenery of a
UNESCO World Heritage city. And in
Hua Hin, just three hours from Bangkok,
the contemporary Thai-style hotel will
sit in Cha Am, an indulgent beach resort
town famed for attracting royalty.
For todays demanding travellers, who
expect nothing less than beauty, quality
and excellence at every turn, Sofitel,
Sofitel So and Sofitel Legend hotels and
resorts tick every box. And with that very
special French art de vivre, it really is
time to celebrate.
www.sofitel.com
Sofitel Angkor Ph okeeth ra

Golf & Spa Resort
Contributors
Jeff Chu
Writer
Artists Alone, Together
page 122
Petrina Tinslay
Photographer
Diving into Sydney
page 112
Gary Shteyngart
Writer
Diving into Sydney
page 112
Sydneysiders, in three words

Warm, friendly, adventurous. Top spot
for a photo op Catch a ferry from
Circular Quay to Manly before the sun
setsprime magic light time on
Sydney Harbour. Favorite shoot
subject Local enoteca and cantina 121
BC serves great wine and Italian food,
with a lively vibe and a charming
manager, Giorgio. I also had fun
photographing the food-critic couple Pat
Nourse and Myffy Rigby. Their appetite
for life is huge! Travel essential My
cameras are attached to my body like
Edward Scissorhands.
How did you survive an eightrestaurant crawl through Sydney?

I prayed a lot. I drank sweet-tasting
Sydney water. I did pull-ups at the hotel.
Im lying about the last part. Meal to
order Oysters after a swim at Icebergs.
I love keeping things aquatic.
Neighborhood youd live in Surry
Hills. Thats just how hip I am. A trip
to Australia isnt complete
without... Going on a bender with the
locals. What, if anything, surprised
you? Whenever I was presented with a
bill. A piece of toast costs HOW MUCH?
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F J E F F C H U ; C O U R T E S Y O F R A N D O M H O U S E ; C O U R T E S Y O F P E T R I N A T I N S L AY
Why Bandung? Im intrigued by

complicated, multicultural histories.
What did you find? A laid-back city
that doesnt seem to pay attention to its
Dutch colonial past. But there are layers
in Bandung, and peeling them back in
search of understanding is one of the
joys of travel. Best meal One artist
took me to a warung where you wash
your hands at taps over open sewers.
Some of her foreign friends in the past
had refused to eat there. But its not like
the sewers were right next to the kitchen!
Anyway, the Sundanese food was the
best I had. In 10 years... I hope that
having an architect as mayor will inspire
the city to care for its rich architectural
heritage. A little TLC could turn
Bandung into a paragon of restoration.
Inbox
Wellington [Long-Weekend Wellington, June] is a great city.
We were there in 2001 and had the best adventure.
Kiwis are such gracious hosts! Andrew Stuart
Viva Sevilla
Garden Party
I cant remember the last time I was as

transported by a story as I was by
Sleepless in Seville [August]. The
late-night tapas bars and sultry
Sevillana clubs felt so alive, I decided
to arrange a side trip to the city during
my upcoming trip to Spain!
Taylor Boudle
AUSTIN , TEXAS
You are right: autumn is the best

time of the year for coffees or beers
or parties in gardens [Backyard Bia
Hoi, October]. You should not
miss this in charming Hanoi.
Kate Nguyen
Up, Up and Away
I also had the opportunity to go up in

the bumblebee gyrocopter [Flights of
Fancy, October] over Phuket, and it
was amazing!
Amy Bensema
PHUK ET
HANOI
Road Warrior
The new Martone bike [Easy Rider,

September] may be a bit too blingbling for me, but looks nice with the
basket on the front. Ill stick with
my racer on the London streets, but
I would ride this in Amsterdam,
no problem!
Simon Lie
LONDON
Ancient Eating
Visit us
travelandleisureasia.com
A Japanese Gem
Nara [Fawning over Nara, June] is a

gorgeous city, but beware the deer!
Victor Martinez
AUSTIN , TEXAS
Follow us
f facebook.com/
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RIC H A RD MC L EISH 2
Hoi An [Six Dishes, April] is one of

the most beautiful villages in the
world! Add this to your bucket list.
Marybeth Lyles Kemp
BOULDER , COLOR ADO
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News. Finds. Opinions. Obsessions.
art
GALLERY ON
THE GULF
Elaborate installations
constructed by sculptors
from around the world
add a touch of modern
art to a practically
prehistoric New Zealand
trail walk. Karryn Miller
is blinded by this optical
embarrassment of
riches.
Nic Moons Breath

installation dotted
Waiheke Island last year.
P H OTOGR A P H ED BY SON JA R E A D
D E C E M B E R 2 014
27
Radar
Installations from previous years, clockwise from top left:

Pavilion Structure by Gregor Kregar; Beyond Good and Evil by
Konstantin Dimopoulos; Knotty by Jeff Thomson; Snake by Phil
Price; Portrait of Traction and Transmission by David McCracken.
28
D E C E M B E R 2 014
Its numerous picturesque

vineyards and white-sand
beaches have made Waiheke
Island, in the Hauraki Gulf of
New Zealand, one of the
countrys fastest rising travel
destinations. Its laid-back,
bohemian vibe and proximity to
downtown Auckland, just a
35-minute ferry ride east, have
attracted throngs of city-weary
commuters. But in addition to its
status as a relaxing getaway from
the mainland, this little island is
a host to a thriving artist
community. Waiheke now boasts
more galleries than wineries.
The epitome of the islands
creative undercurrent is
Headland Sculpture on the
Gulf, a biennial exhibition of
large-scale art installations
from 31 local and international
artistsselected out of more
than 100 submissions. The
sculptures will be placed along a
two-kilometer stretch of the
islands pristine coastline,
starting at Te Miro Bay and
following the craggy shore to
Matiatia Bay.
Since the rst iteration of
Gulf in 2003, the event has
rmly established itself as New
Zealands premiere outdoor art
festival. In 2015, sculptors from
around the world, along with six
resident Waihekians, will
showcase their works. Finnish
duo Elin & Keino and Aucklandbased Korean artists Seung Yul
Oh and Suji Park are among the
new exhibitors, while event

regulars like steel sculptor David
McCracken will also unveil
creations. Parks Garden will
work with the environment
through a range of amalgamated
material being buried beneath
and emerging from the
landscape. Visitors will nd
theres a more tech-savvy
approach this year, with some
artists inviting viewers to fully
engage with the art using a
smartphone or tablet. Shannon
Novaks Andante is a series of
site-specic geometric
structures designed for
spectators to interact by
snapping seles.
The two-hour sculpture trail
walkan hour of walking and an
hour of viewingis free to the
public and, at the end, visitors
can sample some of the islands
other specialties. The Headland
Pavilion will be serving a Taste
of Waiheke menu, designed by
local chefs Nico Fini, who
worked in a three-Michelin-star
restaurant in France, and former
MasterChef New Zealand
runner-up Ana Schwarz. And of
course, no visitor should come to
Waiheke without tasting some of
its famous wines and craft beers,
also available at the Pavilion.
The artwork will be even more
spellbinding after youve
knocked back a couple of glasses.
Gulf exhibition runs from
January 23 to February 15, 2015;
sculptureonthegulf.co.nz. +
Radar
Hercules &
Love Affair.
events
ARE YOU READY TO ROCK?

Thailands first world-class outdoor music and arts fest,
Wonderfruit, descends on Chonburi this month.
by chef David Thompson, and feasts
from some of Bangkoks best eateries,
like Appia and Quince. If the food
ignites your inner gourmand, take a
cooking or fruit-carving class. Into
wellness? Try the cycling, rafting or
yoga on offer; or fringe activities like
chakra-balancing or reikito get your
back-to-nature bohemian groove on.
The onsite accommodations range
from free camping to rentable airconditioned safari tents that come with
beds, linens and lighting. Theres even
a dog park and nanny service. The free
love-meets-glamping party is meant to

both inspire curiosity, says organizer
Pete Phornprapha, and showcase
some of the very best of Asian culture.
There will be Swedish electronica.
There will be suckling pig. There will
be Aura-Soma, whatever that is. It will
be like Woodstock for yuppies. See you
stage frontwell be the ones with
owers in our hair. December 19-21;
wonderfruitfestival.com; adult threeday-pass tickets Bt5,000; rental tents
Bt5,000, VIP camping from Bt15,000 for
two people for the two nights. +
goods
DESTINATIONS, DELIVERED
Even if you cant travel all the time, the world can come to
youthanks to new subscription services that package
items from places near and far into tidy, curated boxes.
Try the World (trytheworld.com) assembles locally made
food items: chestnut spread in the Paris box, say, or dried
seaweed in the Tokyo edition. And the collections by A Box
From (aboxfrom.com)so far, Seoul and Tehran, Iran
include what founder Elin Aram calls silly small stuff.
Because nothing says Korean kitsch like a hamburgershaped post-it notepad. brooke porter katz
30
D E C E M B E R 2 014
F R O M TO P : C O U R T E S Y O F W O N D E R F R U I T 2 ; DAV I D A L E X A N D E R A R N O L D
Attention music lovers, festival fans

and, apparently, yogis: the inaugural
Wonderfruit Festival is a big deal. In a
rst for Thailand, an all-star global
line-up is converging on Chonburi,
Bangkoks nearest seaside town, for
three days of live shows from De La
Soul, Hercules & Love Affair, Little
Dragon, Jose Gonzales, Fat Freddys
Drop and Nick Mulvey, to name a few;
and bomb sets from DJs the likes of
Jamie Jones, Ali Love and Boris Rubin.
All the awesome music will set the
soundtrack for mountaintop banquets
Radar
food
TWISTED TASTES
Classic Singaporean cuisine with a modern edge is catching on in this sunny

island. Here are four establishments that do it with finesse. By Grace Ma
Wild Rocket
Pidgin Kitchen & Bar
Hopscotch
Flee Away Caf
Chef Willin Low is widely

credited as pioneering
Singapore cuisine with a
contemporary touch. His
restaurant Wild Rocket
reopened in July with a hot
new look and revamped
menu to match, with homey
favorites like the pineapple
sorbet with soy sauce, salt
and birds eye chili powder, a
tribute to the way Lows
father used to eat pineapples
during his era. Order the
ever-evolving Singapore
fried noodles, served as
kombu tagliarini with king
prawn in prawn stock and
lobster oil. facebook.com/
wildrocket.sg; omakase menu
from S$128 per person.
Were a chill-out place but

we take our food very
seriously, says Pidgin
Kitchen & Bars chef Kenny
Lim. You should too. Chef
Lim infuses local avors
into common dishes to
churn out crowd-pleasers
such as bak kwa (savory
sweetmeat) mac and cheese,
foie gras with sweet rojak
sauce, and tiger prawn
wonton capellini with
prawn-stuffed dumplings
and slices of chorizo ibrico.
Save space for the satisfying
kaya (coconut jam) breadand-butter pudding and the
Milo Dinosaur Version 2.1
chocolate dessert. pidgin.sg;
three-course set dinner S$58
per person.
Just opened in October,

pop-up craft cocktail bar
Hopscotch is already blaring
on the hipster radar. Expect
obscure ingredients that are
more commonly found in
your grandmothers kitchen
or the neighborhood
provision shop such as
Bovril and coffee powder.
Feeling adventurous? Try
the Hop Kee, which contains
white sesame oil steeped in
vodka for a week; or the Arab
Street, avored with rose,
saffron, pomegranate and
apple, and garnished with a
cherry-smoked cotton candy
that simulates the smell of
shisha. hopscotch.sg; drinks
for two S$44.
The food here is as fun as the

vintage toy motif lining its
walls. We chomped down
their signature le char kuey, a
fried dough fritter shaped
like a French baguette and
stuffed with local llings
like dry spicy laksa noodles
and chicken bak kwa with
crushed cracker and wasabi
mayo. New on the menu:
milk shakes that come in
avors like grass jelly, black
glutinous rice pudding and
chendol, an Asian dessert
mix of coconut milk, red
beans and green jelly
noodles. As the locals say,
theyre sibei (damn) good.
eeawaywith.me; le char
kuey for two S$25.+
32
D E C E M B E R 2 014
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F F L E E A W AY C A F ; G R A C E M A ; C O U R T E S Y O F H O P S C O T C H ; C O U R T E S Y O F F L E E A W AY C A F ; G R A C E M A
Clockwise from
top left: Fly-by fun
at Flee Away Caf;
Hopscotchs Joel
Ne Win shakes it up;
Arab Street cocktail
at Hopscotch; tau
kwa salad, Flee Away
Caf; Wild Rocket
deconstructed
strawberry
cheesecake.
I N D E P E N D E N T M E A N S T H AT N O M AT T E R H O W G R A N D ,
L U X U R Y I S A LWAY S P E R S O N A L
If you enjoy individuality, vitality, and epic luxury when you travel,
discover the unique travel experiences of Preferred Hotels & Resorts and Preferred Boutique.
2014 Preferred Hotel Group
Visit all 650 hotels and resorts at PreferredHotels.com/TLSEA
ANDARA RESORT & VILLAS

Phuket, Thailand
THE CAPITOL HOTEL TOKYU

Tokyo, Japan
THE FULLERTON HOTEL SINGAPORE

Singapore
make your travel more rewarding
HOTEL KEPPLER
Paris, France
Radar
Clockwise from left: Negombo
beach; the Dutch Canal stretches
all the way to Colombo; St. Marys
Church in Little Rome; farm-tofloor produce at the fruit market
on King George Drive.
weekender
A BEACH WITHIN REACH
A short drive from Colombo, the coastal city of

Negombo proves the perfect welcome to Sri
Lanka. Story and photos by Ian Lloyd Neubauer
EAT The gelato, tiramisu
DO Negombos Dutch Canal
and crpes at Dolce Vita

(freewebs.com/dolcevita
srilanka; crpes for two
Rs880) are good, but the
sunset from the beachfront
balconyblood-red and
uninterruptedis out of
this world. A short stroll
down the strip, Samurai
Sushi Bar (94-31/227-9500;
dinner for two US$20), one
of Negombos newest
restaurants, buys tuna,
prawns and lobster from
the sprawling sh markets
on the southern end of the
beach. For tropical fruits
that sell for peanuts, head
down to the fruit market
on King George Drive.
was completed by Dutch

traders in the 17th century,
but the charming
neighborhood it cuts
through is known as Little
Rome for its winding
alleyways and pastelcolored churches. The
standout is St. Marys
Church, a Portuguese-era
chapel on Main Street with
stained-glass windows and
intricate nativity frescoes
splashed across its ceilings.
See it on a self-guided
walking tour or in a custombuilt replica of the
speedboat James Bond used
to leapfrog the local police
in the 1973 lm Live and Let
34
D E C E M B E R 2 014
AT A GLANCE
GETTING THERE
Fly into Bandaranaike

International Airport
and drive just 12
kilometers north.
GETTING AROUND
Motorized rickshaws are

cheap and fun, but agree
on a fare before getting in.
NATURAL WONDER
Large numbers of
shorebirds and people
co-exist on the banks of
Negombo Lagoon, a
velvet-green estuary
lined with mangroves
and shanties.
SPICE OF LIFE
Negombos written
history dates back to the
start of the spice trade in
the 12th century and its
cinnamon is considered
the sweetest on earth.
LENGTH OF CANAL
Spanning 120 kilometers,

it reaches all the way to
Colombo.
BEACHES
Negombo Beach Park is

6 kilometers of
saffron-colored sand,
teeming with seafront
sports and activities.
Die. Hourly tours depart

from Viksund Water Sport
Resort (viksundboatasia.
com; US$23 per person).
Afterwards, rejuvenate
with a Shirodhara oil
massage at Spa Hundira
(villahundira.com;
US$31.50). Every corner of
this sanctuary is festooned
with art and antiques
collected by the SwedishSri Lankan couple who
built and run the place.
Ayurvedic treatments are
provided by a local healer.
Radar
From left: The beachfront swimming pool at Hotel J; Pledge 3

offers some of the citys most stylish rooms.
STAY Punching far above its

weight is Hotel J (hotel-jnegombo-sri-lanka.ww.lk;
doubles from US$53), where
guests enjoy all of the deluxe
necessitiesbeachfront pool
and sunbeds, high-speed
Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, hot
showers, an in-house
restaurant and snappy
service; but none of the extra
frills such as toiletries, minibars or room service. A few
hundred meters up the strip,
but on a completely different
planet, the trendy Pledge 3
(hotelpledge3.com; US$305)
is Negombos coolest place to
stay. From the industrialchic furniture to the pop art
wall prints, everything here
is designer and cutting edge.
Ask for one of the over-sized
attic suites, which come
with their own private
sundecks, elegant desk
alcoves and monsoon
showers. +
Radar
spotlight
THE KING
OF COMFORT
Selections from the

Tomas Maier Resort
2015 collection
Leather-and-grosgrain
espadrilles, US$450;
canvas tote, US$225.
On model: Velour
hat, US$995; cashmere
sweater, US$1,445;
denim pants, US$280;
leather clutch, US$750;
leather flats, US$585.
This line is about the casual side of life:

traveling, the weekend, lounging at home,
Tomas Maier says of his rst full
namesake collection, composed of
comfortable pieces ideal for long ights.
For women, that means unfussy items
such as dark denim shirtdresses, buttery
leather skirts and pantsuits that arent
overly structured or formal; for men, there
are relaxed blazers, slouchy trousers and
reimagined parkas and peacoats.
Swimwear and accessories, including bold
wooden jewelry, pointy ats and roomy
totes, make an understated impact. For
Maier, versatilityneutral colors; clean
shapesis a priority. Im interested in
separates that pair together in various
ways. They can be a little dressy or very
casual, but always make you look and feel
good when you travel.
Another goal for Maier, who is also
creative director of Italian fashion brand
Bottega Veneta, is attainability. It was
important for me to create thoughtful,
well-made designer garments, but at an
attractive price point, he says. Theres so
much out there thats very expensive; I
wanted to do something different.
tomasmaier.com. RACHEL FELDER
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O L L I E R S C H O R R ; A N D R E W B . M Y E R S 2 ; C O U R T E S Y O F T O M A S M A I E R
Tomas Maiers new collection

offers travelers both fashion
and function.
Suite views at
Aman Tokyo.
debut
TOWERING IN TOKYO
Aman, with its eet of luxury
beachside resorts and romantic
villas, is ipping the script and
getting citied. Its rst fully urban
property opens in Tokyo this month,
taking up the top six oors of the
newly completed Otemachi Tower.
The 84 rooms and suites, each with
panoramic views, are rumored to be
some of Tokyos largest, and are
peppered with clever design elements
conceived by Kerry Hill Architects.
The wall of windows drench the

space with light, while classic
Japanese materials such as camphor
wood, washi paper and stone play
with balancing brightness and
shadow. Each room has a large furo, a
deep tub thats long been a part of the
Japanese bathing ritual. So whether
you like soaking in sunlight or bubble
bath, this urban refuge will have you
happily submerged. amanresorts.com;
doubles from 75,000. +
c u lt u r e
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF AMAN RESORTS; BBBAR/DRE AMSTIME.COM
MUSEUM MUSINGS
Asia may not muster the
cobblestone gravitas of Europes
top heritage sites, but the
museums in this region reect
equally, and often more, ancient
cultures. A study by Tripadvisor
crunched the numbers on
travelers favorite museums in
Asia and around the world.
Award winners were determined
using an algorithm that balanced
the quantity and quality of
reviews for museums, gathered
over a 12-month period.
Top 10 Museums in Asia:
1. The Museum of Qin Terra-cotta Warriors
and Horses, Xian, China
2. Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum,
Phnom Penh
3. Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum,
Hiroshima
4. Vietnam Museum of Ethnology, Hanoi
Terra-cotta
warriors.
5. Hellre Pass Museum, Kanchanaburi,

Thailand
6. Vietnamese Womens Museum, Hanoi
7. Shanghai Museum, Shanghai
8. Hong Kong Museum of History, Hong Kong
9. Asian Civilisations Museum, Singapore
10. Islamic Arts Museum, Kuala Lumpur
Radar
obsessions
QINGDAO COVER-UPS
On a lone beach in eastern China, swimmers sport head-to-toe

bathing suits that leave almost everything to the imagination.
Photographer Philipp Engelhorn revels in the unrevealing.
I live in a Hong Kong beach village and
each morning the Chinese grandmas,
or po pos, take to the surf for their daily
swim. Watching this ritual has become
a highlight of my day, so when I heard
that in the eastern Chinese city of
Qingdao the same custom is associated
with facemasks and full body suits, I
had to go see for myself. Qingdao has
many swim spots, but you can only nd
these wild mask-and-outt combos on
one stretch of sand in Huiquan Bay
known as Qingdao Number One
Bathing Beach. I went every day for a
week, from 5:30 a.m. to 8:30 a.m., and
snapped 150 different portraits. I was
mesmerized; I had never seen anything
like it. It reminded me of the lucha libre
Mexican wrestling costumes, which
Ive always wanted to shoot.
In that context, I wasnt surprised to
learn that some beaches ban these looks
because, as one lifeguard told me, the
get-ups might scare children. I saw his
point. The overall effect can be a little
creepy, but for me that just adds to the
charm. It is fantastic that these often
homemade outts (though they are sold
in a few stores) have nothing to do with
performance; it is all just for personal
use. This high-coverage swimwear is
designed as protection from the sun
and jellysh stings, but most of the
women I spoke to said the primary
allure is aesthetic, preserving the light
color of their skin. In China, as in much
of Asia, pallor is considered a sign of
class and beautyjust take the local
axiom: One whiteness can cover three
kinds of ugliness.
But theres an innate contradiction
here that I love: the cover-ups may be
designed to preserve beauty, but they
also demonstrate a total lack of
inhibition. These ladies dont care
about looking cool while out on the
beachthey are just having fun and
doing their own thing. +
40
D E C E M B E R 2 014
HAVE YOURSELF A TROPICAL CHRISTMAS

ON THE BEAUTIFUL ISLAND OF LANGKAWI
The rustic charming world of Meritus Pelangi stretches

over 35 acres of lush tropical greenery, overlooking the
famed white sands of Cenang Beach.
Designed in the style of a traditional Malay Village, 355
guestrooms and suites are housed in 51 Chalets. Come
enjoy the tropics in the corner of paradise that is Meritus
Pelangi Resort & Spa, Langkawi.
For more information, please call (604) 952 8888 or
email resvn.pelangi@meritushotels.com.
*Terms & Conditions Apply.
www.meritushotels.com
Radar
the moment
RATHAUSPLATZ,
VIENNA
9:19 p.m.
I remember a cauldron lled with molten beeswax, and my mother handing me a piece of string.
I was seven or eight. It was Christmas, at a holiday market in Zurich. I dipped the string into the
wax and pulled it out a few dozen times, and there was something amazing, even magical, about
how the string turned into a candle, and about the smell of the wax, and the wintry crowds and
the lights and the sounds. Today, 30-odd years later, the Mitteleuropa-style Christmas market is
thriving, in Zurich, Prague and Munich, in Frankfurt and Viennacelebrations of the season
and places where families can still make memories of their own. LUKE BARR
42
D E C E M B E R 2 014
P H OTOGR A P H ED BY MONIK A H O EFL ER
Radar
A necklace by
Kirsten Goss.
Latitude 33s caf.
on the map
1
CAPE TOWNS NEW CORE

Alexandra
Hjer Atelier.
Tapas at La Parada.
Serving
up lunch at
Borage.
44
D E C E M B E R 2 014
1 Heston
Blumenthal
protg Frank
Marks brings
serious culinary
cred to the strip
with Borage,
a loftlike bistro
serving hearty
European cuisine.
The blackboard
menu rotates
frequently; arrive
early to secure one
of the deconstructed
chicken pot pies,
a curl of pastry
encircling perfectly
roasted bird, peas
and onion petals
drizzled in gravy.
7B Portside Bldg.;
borage.co.za; dinner
for two R220.
2 Irish-born Liam
Tomlin opened
Chefs Warehouse
& Canteen as a
combination deli
and kitchen store,
its shelves lined
with cookbooks,
ceramic plates and
exotic vinegars. An
adjoining streetfood counter serves

lamb shawarma
sandwiches and
tandoori-chicken
wraps to go. 92 Bree
St.; chefswarehouse.
co.za; lunch for
two R320.
3 The bearded and
bespectacled spill
onto the sidewalks
outside La Parada,
a tapas joint with a
Barcelona avor:
reclaimed parquet
ooring; vintage
Spanish posters; a
golden bull-head
trophy. What to
order? Spiced
oxtail cannelloni,
paprika-spiced
calamari and
pitchers of sangria.
107 Bree St.;
27-21/426-0330;
tapas for two
R200.
4 Despite the
regions stellar
reputation among
oenophiles, Cape
Town lacked a great

wine bar until
Publik arrived on
the scene, offering
pours from the
nearby Western
Cape and beyond
many of them rare
varietals or made
from biodynamic
grapes. 81 Church
St.; publik.co.za.
5 After a morning
riding the waves at
Glen Beach, surfers
beat a path to
Latitude 33, a caf/
boutique/gallery
that serves locally
roasted Truth coffee
and hearty dishes
(ostrich burgers
with buffalo
mozzarella) and
stocks Aussie skate
wear. 165 Bree St.;
lat33.co.za; lunch for
two R250.
6 A vintage BMW
motorcycle greets
the fashion-forward
shoppers at
Alexandra Hjer
Atelier, an
industrial boutique
and workshop with
cracked concrete
walls and Josef
Frankinspired
wallpaper
a striking contrast
to the Swedish
designers
impeccably tailored
mens and womens
lines. 156 Bree St.;
alexandrahojer.com
7 Pick up a
handcrafted
geometric-print
leather bag by
Capetonian
accessories line
Missibaba and
mod statement
earrings from
London-based
designer Kirsten
Goss at their
hybrid boutique,
also showcasing
collaborations
with homegrown
designers. 229 Bree
St.; missibaba.com;
kirstengoss.com.
COLLEEN CLARK
BRE E ST.
Once-desolate Bree Street has become a microcosm of

South African cool and a showcase for the regions bounty.
2
3
4
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F K I R S T E N G O S S ; C O U R T E S Y O F L AT I T U D E 3 3 ; M I C K Y H O Y L E / C O U R T E S Y O F A L E X A N D R A H J E R AT E L I E R ;
M I C K Y H OY L E /C O U R T E S Y O F L A PA R A DA ; M P U M E L E L O M A C U/C O U R T E S Y O F B O R A G E
THE
BEST
OF
2014
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F K ATA R O C K S ; Z O N E X9 8 ; C O U R T E S Y O F C H I B I M O M O ; C O U R T E S Y O F K A P O K . O P P O S I T E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F S O F I T E L S O S I N G A P O R E ; C O U R T E S Y O F C A R B O N E
As our region
explodes with
glamorous new
hotels, innovative
restaurants, funky
shops, luxurious spas
and everything in
between, we have a
years worth of new
favorite spots. From a
mangrove-encircled
beachfront resort in
Cambodia, to a
tness craze in
Australia, to a
meditative labyrinth in
Singapore, our writers
on the ground weigh
in on the hottest
newcomers that are
redening our travels.
From top: Turquoise from the

terrace at Kata Rocks, Phuket;
dinner, drinks and art at Zone
X-98, Hanoi; geometric clutch at
Kapok, Hong Kong; precious
plushies at kids store Chibi
Momo, Manila. Opposite, from
top: Tending bar at Sofitel So
Singapore; dont shoot shrimp
scampi at Carbone, Hong Kong.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
49
Prix Fixe Also on the Paris end

of Melbournes CBD but in a New
York state-of-mind, Prix Fixe is
Australias only ticketed dining
room. Sold exclusively online or
on the black market, the tickets
oer diners guaranteed seating.
Inspired by Melbournes vibrant
art and music scene, the table
dhte menu is rebooted monthly.
Albert Place, Melbourne; prixxe.
com.au; four-course dhte dinner
A$89 per person.
THE BEST OF
2014
AUSTRALIA
By Ian Lloyd Neubauer
DRINK
Gordons Bay Winner of the New

South Wales Architecture Award,
this stunning ve-bedroom home
with its own gym, media room
and pool overlooking Sydneys
Gordons Bay operates exclusively
as a holiday home. Bookings with
prestige letting agent Luxe
Houses include airport transfers,
Dom Prignon on arrival, plus
housekeeping and optional
concierge services. luxehouses.
com.au; from A$15,000 per week
for a two-week minimum stay.
Sheraton Melbourne If not for
the Sheraton logo on the side of
the luminescent 31-story
building, you would assume this
new hotel on the Paris end of
Melbournes CBD was a privately
owned boutique. From the
alleyway entrance, to the
cantina-style restaurant, to the
mood-lit spa and pool, everything
at this new Sheraton is practical,
modern and boutique. 27 Little
Collins St., Melbourne; 61-3/
9290-1000; sheratonmelbourne.
com; doubles from A$290.
Clockwise from top: Bay-view bathing at Gordons Bay; high-five the

clouds with Skydive Airlie Beach; chef Mark Bests innovative eats at
Pei Modern Sydney; sultry speakeasy style at Magazin.
EAT
Pei Modern Sydney Two years

ago, Sydney chef Mark Best ew
the coop to open Pei Modern, a
sexy little bistro that in short
time became a culinary
institution in Melbourne. Now
hes bringing the marquee to his
hometown. Set on the ground
oor of the Four Seasons Hotel,
Pei Modern Sydney stakes its
claim as the citys number one
steakhouse thanks to Bests
wood-red grill and dishes like
the 800-gram dry-aged T-Bone.
199 George St., Sydney; 612/9250-3100; peimodern.com.au;
dinner for two A$120.
50
D E C E M B E R 2 014
DO
Bodyism Elle Macpherson

swears by it. Hugh Grant credits
it for his hot new physique. Its
called Bodyisma blueprint for a
lean and chiseled body based on
short spurts of resistance
trainingand its now available
for the rst time in Australia at
the space-age gym at the new
One&Only Resort set on
picturesque Hayman Island.
Hayman Island, Queensland; 617/4940-1971; hayman.oneand
onlyresorts.com; one-hour
personal training A$180.
Skydive Airlie Beach Once
youve seen the wonders of Great
Barrier Reef up close through a
diving mask, see it from afar
4,267 meters to be exactat
Australias most spectacular
skydiving drop zone. Situated on
Airlie Beach, the activity sees
jumpers reach speeds of 220
kilometers per hour until the
parachute is deployed and then
oat serenely to the beach while
taking in an unparalleled birdseye view of the coast and reef.
Shute Harbour Road, Airlie Beach;
skydive.com.au; tandem dive from
A$234 per person.
I A N L L O Y D N E U B A U E R 4
STAY
Magazin In an unsigned
basement not far from the Kings
Cross red-light district, this dark
and moody speakeasy is Sydneys
rst members-only bar. With
soundproof booths and
minimalist lighting, Magazin is
exclusivity dened. Entry aer
9:30 p.m. is by invitation only,
but if youre well-dressed or wellspoken enough, doors may
magically open. 113 William St.,
Darlinghurst, Sydney; drinks for
two A$40; annual membership is
A$295 per person, plus a A$1,500
registration fee.
capital to ll the 165-room

property and its onsite Italian
restaurant, cigar lounge and wine
cellar, sports bar, and spa.
National Guest House Compound,
Dekkhina Thiri, East Nay Pyi Taw;
95-67/810-5059; mgallery.com;
doubles from US$104.
THE BEST OF
2014
BURMA
EAT
By Fiona MacGregor
The Lab Quality tapas and a

convivial atmosphere make this
haunt a favorite with Rangoon
expats and locals alike, drawing
an eclectic, informal crowd most
evenings. The food is a creative
collection of bite-sized dishes
from home-made curd cheese, to
garlicky, prosciutto-topped
crostini at reasonable prices.
Wash it all down with a stellar
mojito. 70A Shwegondaing
Rd.; thelab-yangon.com; dinner
for two K50,000.
Sasazu Chef Shahaf Shabtay is
bringing his award-winning,
Prague-based Asian restaurant
to The Lo hotel in Rangoon. The
menu concept combines ve
elements of Asian cooking:
sambal (mixed with chili sauce),
otak-otak (wrapped in banana
leaves), ame (wok-tossed), roti
(served with Indian stone-oven
baked bread) and tai tai
(combined with sticky rice,
coconut and pandan leaves), into
dishes that brim with fresh local
ingredients. sasazu.com; menu
not released as of press time.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : F I O N A M A C G R E G O R ; C O U R T E S Y O F K E M P I N S K I H O T E L N AY P Y I TA W ; C O U R T E S Y O F S A S A Z U ; F I O N A M A C G R E G O R
STAY
The Lo Boutique hotels remain

something of a rarity in newly
emerging Burma, so this 32room warehouse conversion in
downtown Rangoon is a welcome
arrival. Spacious rooms, with
clean-cut modern design, provide
a relaxing escape from the bustle
of top city sights including
Bogyoke Market and Sule
Pagoda, which are just a few
minutes walk from the hotel. 33
Yaw Min Gyi St., Dagon Township,
Rangoon; 95/372-299;
theloyangon.com; doubles from
US$209.
Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel
Bustling Botataung Jetty on the
Yangon River, where the US$50million ship-conversion Vintage
Luxury Yacht Hotel is berthed, is
a colorful, lively center of
Rangoon daily life. Decorated in
glamorous 1920s style, and lit
with Edison vintage bulbs, the
104-room hotel reects the
citys colonial heritage. The
highlight? Watching sunset from
the deck. No. 6, Botataung Jetty,
Botahtaung Township, Rangoon;
Kempinski Hotel Nay Pyi Taw
Seeking out the works of local
crasmen and artisans, the
designers of this hotel have
captured the glories of Burmas
artistic heritage in 141 rooms
and suites set among landscaped
gardens, proving Nay Pyi Taw is
more than just a business hub.
11-12 National Guest House
Compound, Shwe Pyi Taw Win Rd.,
Dekkhina Thiri Township, Nay Pyi
Taw; 95-67/810-6061;
kempinski.com; doubles from
K200,000.
The Lake Garden Nay Pyi Taw
Accors upscale MGallery
collection has opened a new
hotel just a 40-minute drive from
the Nay Pyi Taw International
Airport, counting on the growing
boom of tourism to the nascent
DRINK
Clockwise from top: Whiskey-lovers unite at Cask 81; Burmese art
graces the walls at Kempinski Hotel Nay Pyi Taw; Thai papaya salad at
Sasazu; watch sunset from the deck of Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel.
Cask 81 Whiskey-lovers, set

your sights on this intimate
lounge for a night of peaty
single-malts. The long wooden
bar and rich leather seats create
a grandpas study atmosphere
that is perfect for pung on
cigars, sipping on scotch, and
waxing intellectual. 81 Kabar Aye
Pagoda Rd., Bahan Township,
Rangoon; facebook.com/cask81;
drinks for two US$16.
SHOP
Transit Shed No. 1 High-end

shopping experiences are still
relatively rare in Burma, but this
gallery with rotating pop-up
stores in a converted riverfront
warehouse is leading the way.
Between Lanthit Jetty and Kaing
Dan No. 1 Jetty, Rangoon;
95/124-890; ts1yangon.com.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
51
EAT
Mahob Dig in at the latest

venture from Seng Sothea, the
young, ambitious Siem Reapbased chef behind Hot Stone
Caf and Palate Angkor. Set in a
romantic, restored traditional
wooden house, the eatery prides
itself on healthy and artful
renditions of Khmer cuisine
caramelized pork with palm sugar
and ginger; handmade sh-ball
soup with bitter melon. 137
Traing Village, Siem Reap; 85563/966-986; mahobkhmer.com;
dinner for two US$30.
THE BEST OF
2014
Bassac Lane Its hard to believe

newly coined Bassac Lane was a
trash-strewn alley just a year
ago. Thanks to the inventive
30-something New Zealand
Norbert-Munns brothers, its now
home to a half-dozen pint-sized
bars and eateries. Enjoy a premeal Negroni at aperitivo bar
Seibur, a decadent burger and
indie rock soundtrack at Meat &
Drink, or a fresh fruit daiquiri at
The Library, whose shelves are
lined with second-hand books.
Bassac Lane, o of Street 308,
Phnom Penh. The Library: 85595/366-243. Meat & Drink: 85589/740-051. Seibur: 85592/839-440. Prices are similar at
all three establishments with
drinks for two costing US$10.
Samai Taking advantage of
Cambodias plentiful sugar cane
and their Latin roots, a trio of
South Americans has started the
countrys rst rum distillery in
Phnom Penhs residential Tonle
Bassac neighborhood. On
Thursdays, the space opens to
the public, serving samples of its
product and hosting exhibitions
by the citys best young artists.
9 St. 830, Phnom Penh;
samaidistillery.com; 855-89/257449; drinks for two US$10.
CAMBODIA
By Naomi Lindt
STAY
Pages Commissioned to design

many of Cambodias most
arresting properties, Asma
Architects has become
synonymous with an imaginative
approach that honors the
countrys architectural periods
while celebrating a contemporary
urban aesthetic. This 11-room
boutique hotel, caf and
housewares showroom draws
Siem Reaps artistic elite. Street
24, Wat Bo, Siem Reap; 855-63/
966-812; pages-rooms.com;
doubles from US$48.
Samanea Beach Spa Resort
This resorts 10 sprawling
villasstarting at 90 square
metersare nestled between a
mangrove forest and the sea,
boasting four-poster beds,
soaking tubs and ample space to
take in Keps natural beachside
beauty. Kep Road, Kep; 855-88/
599-0484; samanea-kep.com;
Teav Boutique Hotel Designed
by two local architects, this hotel
blends age-old Khmer imagery
with stylish post-modern design.
The 12 rooms and suites feature
hand-painted Angkoreaninspired murals and a slate-gray
and white-and-black palette,
with furnishings made of recycled
steel, terrazzo and unnished
wood. 14 St. 310, Phnom Penh;
855-23/981-818; teavboutique
hotel.com; doubles from US$88.
52
D E C E M B E R 2 014
SHOP
Clockwise from top left: Local and international artists sell their
wares at 1961 (2); stop by Seibur on Bassac Lane for a Negroni;
fish-ball soup with bitter melon at Mahob; Samai rum distillery.
1961 This boutique hotel has

been reborn as a co-working and
retail space for the towns
population of creatives. Stop by
to peruse works by nearly a dozen
local and international artists and
artisans, from bold jewelry to
obscure serigraphy prints. 211
Osaphear St., Siem Reap; 85515/378-088; the1961.com.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F 19 61 2 ; C O N N O R W A L L ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A H O B ; C O U R T E S Y O F S A M A I
DRINK
Sohofama Here, Chinese cuisine

staples like black true xiao long
bao, yeung chow fried rice and
tea-smoked duck are prepared
with locally sourced organic
produce. The restaurant, owned
by Douglas Young (of G.O.D. fame)
and the people behind
Locafamaan eatery located in
residential Sai Ying Pun
emphasizes the freshest farmto-table avors on the island.
G/F, Staunton, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen
St.; 852/2858-8238; sohofama.
com; dinner for two HK$800.
THE BEST OF
2014
HONG KONG
By Mark Lean
C LO C K W IS E F R O M TO P : C O U R T E SY O F M A M A S A N ; C O U R T E SY O F S O H O FA M A ; C O U R T E SY O F T H E WO O D S; C O U R E TSY O F T H E P OT T I N G E R ; C O U R T E SY O F PM Q.
STAY
The Pottinger With a discreet

entrance fronting Hong Kongs
oldest ascending stone slab lane,
this 68-room heritage property
with its tasteful interiors,
featuring the works of renowned
local photographer and lmmaker
Fan Ho, is both cozy and classy.
All rooms are kitted out with LED
televisions with interactive IPTV
and sound systems, free Wi-Fi,
Acca Kappa toiletries and
essentialaer a late night on
the townNespresso machines.
21 Stanley St.; 852/2308-3188;
thepottinger.com; doubles from
HK$2,375.
EAT
Carbone An outpost of the

Michelin-starred Carbone in New
York, owned by Mario Carbone,
Rich Torrisi and Je Zalaznick,
pulled up on Hong Kongs shores
earlier this year. Hits in the
memorable Italian-American
menu include the prime
porterhouse, the veal parmesan
and the house specialty Marios
meatballs, all served by tuxedoclad waiters. 9F, 33 Wyndham St.;
852/2593-2593; carbone.com.hk;
dinner for two HK$1,100.
Mama San Step into the chilled
out Mama San, and youd be
forgiven for thinking youd le
Hong Kongs rat race for the
languid beach scenes of Thailand
or Bali. Chef Will Meyrick has
transported a slice of Southeast
Asian paradisealong with its
tastiest cuisinesonto buzzy
Wyndham Street. The menua
collage of Chinese, Singaporean,
Indian, Indonesian, Cambodian,
Thai and Vietnamese fareshas
winners like suckling pig, and
so-shelled crab in a mango,
pineapple and peanut salad. 1F,
46 Wyndham St.; 852/28818901; mamasanhongkong.com;
dinner for two HK$900.
DRINK
Clockwise from top: Chef Will Meyrick at Mama San, Hong Kong;
Sohofama serves Chinese comfort food; pItcher-perfect at The Woods;
cozy class at The Pottinger; an explosion of art at Kapok.
Ping Pong 129 Gintonera

Hidden away on a non-descript
street in Sai Ying Pun is a former
ping-pong hall turned hipster
watering hole. The bar stocks
more than 50 dierent gins
including 12 Spanish varieties as
well as cra beers like Er
Boquern. L/G, Nam Cheong
House, 129 Second St., Sai Ying
Pun; 852/9158-1584; pingpong
129.com; drinks for two HK$160.
The Woods More than just a bar
for aer-work drinks, The Woods
oers xed menus of cocktails
precision-made with seasonal
ingredients. Pressed for time?
Sink into one of the leather
armchairs, and let the bartender
surprise you with an oak whisky
soura shot of whisky with
lemon juice, egg white and maple
syrup. L/G, 17 Hollywood Rd.;
852/2522-0281; thewoods.hk;
drinks for two HK$240.
SHOP
Kapok Home-grown brand

Kapoks sixth store in Hong Kong
stocks labels like Seventy Eight
Percent, Teddysh, Void
Watches, Berayah, and Latitude
homeware. Founder Arnault
Castels frequent collaborations
with local designers infuse the
store with stylish street cred.
G/F, Hollywood, PMQ, 35
Aberdeen St.; 852/2858-8170;
ka-pok.com.
2014
INDONESIA
By Holly McDonald
STAY
Double Six Luxury Hotel

These glam beachside digs are
composed of 146 sumptuously
decorated suites with y touches
like round-the-clock butler
service and Herms amenities.
An inviting 120-meter-long pool
overlooking Double Six Beach
meanders through the resort and
the in-house Seminyak Italian
Food restaurant, also with ocean
views, hits the spot. 66 Double
Six Beach, Seminyak, Bali; 62361/730-466; double-six.com;
The Hermitage Built in 1923 as
a Dutch telecommunications
oce in Art Deco style, The
Hermitage in Jakartas salubrious
Menteng district oozes delightful
old-world charm. The eight-story
hotel is peppered with vintage
artifacts and artworks, has a chic
rooop innity pool and bar, and
is home to highly regarded
LAvenue, overseen by Chef
Guillermo Varela Mata. Jalan
Cilacap, Jakarta; 62-21/31926888; jakarta.hermitage.co.id;
EAT
Bambu The folks behind

beachside institution La Lucciola
have done it again. Savor
impeccable cuisine inspired by
54
D E C E M B E R 2 014
SHOP
Souq Be lured by Souqs quietly

tasteful emporium of homewares
and fashion-forward items rarely
found in Balithink Irma Wy
jewelry, Mianliao womens
clothing, as well as Chinese
original trainers Shulong and
Feiyuebut stay for the tasty
caf fare served in-store, such as
potted salmon and fennel bagels
with tarragon cream cheese. And
be sure to take a peek at the pink
amingos in the bathroom. 10
Jln. Raya Basangkasa, Seminyak,
Bali; 62-822/3780-1817;
facebook.com/souqbali.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F S O U Q ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E H E R M I TA G E ; C O U R T E S Y O F D O U B L E S I X L U X U R Y H O T E L ; C O U R T E S Y O F S O U Q ; C O R U T E S Y O F S A LT Y S E A G U L L
Clockwise from top left: Irma Wy jewelry at Souq; La Vue rooftop bar
at The Hermitage; glam beachside digs at Double Six Luxury Hotel; a
Mianliao dress on display at Souq; table tennis at the Salty Seagull.
THE BEST OF
the Indonesian archipelago, such

as barramundi baked in bamboo
with sour star fruit, chilies,
tomato and lemon basil, or
Sulawesi street-style pancake
with Toraja coee and ginger ice
cream. The soothing candlelit
surrounds are magical, a pool-set
pavilion adds romance and
service is both attentitve and
discreet. 198 Jln. Petitenget,
Seminyak, Bali; 62-361/8469797; dinner for two Rp800,000.
Kilo Bali This stylish Singapore
importall woods, polished
concrete and angled glass
serves up imaginative ItalianJapanese fusion cuisine, heavy
on fresh seafood. Dishes sound
classic but are given innovative
twists, such as spicy salmon
sashimi folded with chili akes,
mint, toasted rice and lime.
Cocktails are exceptional and
music is carefully curated, so
come early for a drinkwe
suggest the rosemary-infused
gin and tonic with dehydrated
lemon. 20xx Jln. Drupadi,
Seminyak, Bali; 62-361/4741006; facebook.com/kilobali;
dinner for two Rp900,000.
Salty Seagull A throwback to
the carefree days of 1970s
beachside holiday towns, retro
Salty Seagull is riotously colorful
and fundown (unintentionally)
to some stray concrete dolphins
in the car park and (intentionally)
ping-pong tables and crab racing
inside. Food-wise, its all about
ribs, crabs and old-style prawn
cocktailsnger-lickin
goodness served under a fairylight roof or on garden-set
tables. 999 Jln. Petitenget,
Kerobokan, Bali; 62-361/8497588; dinner for two Rp600,000.
DRINK
THE BEST OF
Barlai Its nondescript entrance

might have once helped Barlai,
the newest kid on the Pudus
entertainment block, remain a
charming insider secret. But as
word spread, the lowbrow combo
of cracked walls, wooden tables
and naked light bulbs somehow
rose to the rank of the citys
most happening watering hole.
3 Jln. Sin Chew Kee, Kuala
Lumpur; 60-3/2141-7850;
thebiggroup.co/bignightout/
barlai; drinks for two RM28.
Fuego Grill & Bar Kuala
Lumpurs newest South
American tapas bar steals the
upmarket drinking scene with its
birds-eye view of the citys
skyline. Facing the Petronas Twin
Towers from the 23rd oor of the
Troika skyscraper, its the perfect
sundown cocktail setting. Level
23A, The Troika, 19 Persiaran,
Kuala Lumpur; 60-3/2162-0886;
troikaskydining.com/fuego; drinks
for two from RM72.
Narrow Marrow Recycling
second-hand furniture with
cheeky but stylish gusto, a
couple of young interior
designers transformed the threemeter-wide ground oor of their
studio into a cozy tunnel for
thirsty bohemians. Sip lattes and
beers while a selection of indie
tunes spins on the vintage vinyl
player. 252A Carnavon St., George
Town, Penang; 60-4/261-3795.
2014
MALAYSIA
By Marco Ferrarese
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : M A R C O F E R R A R E S E 2 ; C O U R T E S Y O F F U E G O G R I L L & B A R ; C O U R T E S Y O F V I V A N TA B Y TA J , R E B A K I S L A N D ; C O U R T E S Y O F B A R L A I
STAY
Vivanta by Taj, Rebak Island

Only a 15-minute boat ride from
mainland Langkawi, these
traditional Malaysian chengaltimber chalets house 94 rooms
and suites stocked with
thoughtful touches like Forest
Essentials natural bath
amenities, a pillow menu, and a
trove of health drinks. Enjoy
Vivanta-curated activities such
as rainforest-expert-led walking
tours, private Batik classes and a
sunset yacht cruise. Oras this
is the only accommodation on
the sprawling 158-hectare,
ancient-forest-covered island
just soak up the sun in solitude.
Kuah, Langkawi; 60-4/966-5566;
vivantabytaj.com; doubles from
RM1,100.
EAT
The Barn Theres much to love

at Mont Kiaras latest Italian and
Spanish fusion grill. Steaks are
cooked to perfection, and the
selection of small plates paired
with a glass of house wine make
for perfect aperitifs. The
attached wine bar and cigar
lounge expertly conjure even
more southern European spirits.
G/F, 1 Mont Kiara, 1 Jln. Kiara,
Kuala Lumpur; 60-3/6211-5620;
thebarn.com.my; meal for two
from RM50.
The Big Fat Hen Express
Diner This intimate family diner
oers a mix of western deli and
artsy atmosphere in Penangs
trademark retro pop style. The
crispy butter-roasted ciabatta
slices topped with macaroni and
cheese or chilli con carne are
best scoed up to the soundtrack
of local musicians strumming out
good vibrations. Garden Inn, 41
Anson Rd., George Town, Penang;
60-17/537-7375; facebook.com/
bigfathen; lunch for two RM20.
SEE
Clockwise from top: Expect murals instead of motor vehicles at Hin
Bus Depot; lattes and lager at Narrow Marrow; hard liquor and
hardbacks at Fuego Grill & Bar; Vivanta by Taj; minimalist Barlai.
Hin Bus Depot Art Centre

Restored to host a solo exhibition
by mural painter Ernest
Zacharevic, this once-abandoned
bus depot is now a retro art
gallery with a lovely adjoining
open-air garden. The almost
monthly launch parties are
great occasions to mingle
with the Penang art
scenes usual suspects.
31A Jln. Gurdwara,
George Town, Penang;
facebook.com/
hinbusdepot; free entry to
all art showcases.
Your Local Casual but not

canteen, the Asian-infused
comfort food and fabulous
cocktails make this addition to
Manilas dining scene a popular
choice for rst dates. Order the
smoked salmon donburi over
corn and shiitake black rice.
G/F, Universal LMS Building, 106
Esteban St., Legaspi Village,
Makati City, Manila; 63-2/8236206; yourlocal.ph; dinner for
two P1,200.
2014
PHILIPPINES
By Stephanie Zubiri
STAY
Kandaya Drink in the tropical

modern architecture, which
makes a lively splash on the
otherwise utilitarian, dive-hotel
landscape of Northern Cebu.
The islands colorful marine life
and white sand beaches provide
the perfect setting for this
breezy property. Boasting a gym,
spa, pool, yoga studio, tennis
court and mixed martial arts
center, theres plenty to keep
you entertained, with or without
the scuba gear. kandayaresort.
com; doubles from P12,000.
Clockwise from top: A Beach Pool Villa at Kandaya; 71 Gramercy,

the hottest club in town; toy treasures at Chibi Momo; spiral into lunch
at Blackbird; chef Bruce Ricketts at Mecha Uma.
EAT
Blackbird The 1930s Nielson

Tower, the only pre-World War II
structure standing in Makati, has
been transformed into an
innovative eating space graced
by chef-owner Colin Mackays
impeccable taste. The menu
reads like an airline route map.
Voyage from Florence to Saigon,
London to Karachi, New York to
Bangkok with dishes like duck
pappardelle and grilled pork belly
skewers with noodle salad.
Nielson Tower, Ayala Triangle
Gardens, Makati City, Manila;
63-2/828-4888; dinner for
two P2,500.
Mecha Uma Young and talented
chef Bruce Ricketts turns out
beautiful Japanese-inspired
dishes with global air such as
matsusaka beef with charred
eggplant, wasabi, scallion and
Cabrales cheese emulsion.
Score a spot at the 10-seat
omakase counter and indulge in
his brazen and spectacular
bites. G/F, RCBC Savings Bank
Corporate Center, 25th Street,
corner of 6th and 7th
Avenues, Bonifacio Global City,
Manila; 63-2/801-2770; dinner
for two P2,000 la carte, tasting
menu for two P7,200.
56
D E C E M B E R 2 014
SHOP
Blue Carreon Home The

international fashion and
lifestyle journalist Blue Carreon
has made a spectacular debut
into the world of interiors with
his namesake boutique and
brand. With a penchant for
glamour and chinoiserie, he pulls
together unusual objects from
around the world and blends
them with his own locally craed
designs resulting in a gorgeous,
tiny space lled with objects of
desire. bluecarreonhome.com.
Chibi Momo Looking for
something special for your
mischievous little peach?
Thats the translation of this
sassy kids stores Japanese
name, and with its wide range of
wares and Parisian chic interiors,
it is truly a gem. Here youll nd
dapper little outts along with
traditional wooden toys and so
plushies. chibimomo.com.
DRINK
71 Gramercy Perched atop

Manilas tallest residential
skyscraper, it is the hottest club
in town. Experience the
gorgeous skyline at happy hour
or come late night to cut a rug
with the local glitterati and
good-looking expat crowd. 71F,
Gramercy Residences, Kalayaan
Avenue, Makati City, Manila; 63917/847-7535; 71gramercy.com;
drinks for two P500.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F K A N D AYA R E S O R T; C O U R T E S Y O F 71 G R A M E R C Y; C O U R T E S Y O F C H I B I M O M O ; C O U R T E S Y O F B L A C K B I R D ; C O U R T E S Y O F M E C H A U M A .
THE BEST OF
THE BEST OF
2014
DRINK
SINGAPORE
By Brian Spencer
STAY
Sotel So Singapore Fashion

icon Karl Lagerfeld designed the
signature Lions Seal logo for this
opulent, 134-room boutique
hotel, housed within a restored
1920s heritage building and
perfectly positioned between
Chinatown and Marina Bay. Its
the only hotel in town where all
rooms come with iPads and
iPhones, and the gold-plated
rooop pool and its swanky bar
are classy spots to chill out
before dinner at Xperience, where
guest Michelin-starred chefs
create exclusive seasonal menus.
35 Robinson Rd.; 65/6701-6800;
sotel.com; doubles from S$294.
EAT
The 1925 Microbrewery &

Restaurant Helping ll a void
created by the unfortunate
recent closure of celebrated
microbrewery Jungle Beer, The
1925 turned an old Jalan Besar
hardware shop into a convivial bilevel bistro anchored by
600-liter-tank brewing facilities.
The beer-friendly cuisine is an
appetizing mix of bar snacks (try
the wasabi fries), grilled meats,
and fresh seafood. 369 Jln.
Besar; 65/6294-9215; the1925.
com.sg; dinner and drinks for two
from S$60.
Alt. Pizza This trendy eatery
from rising-star chef James
White overcomes a somewhat
unfortunate location in Suntec
City shopping mall with a winning
58
D E C E M B E R 2 014
Clockwise from top left: Hot pies at California import Alt. Pizza;
microbrews and bar bites at The 1925 Microbrewery & Restaurant;
Smith Street Taps; Sofitel So Singapore; the serene So Spa pool.
Smith Street Taps The

brilliance of Smith Street Taps is
found in both its setting and
simplicity. Located on the second
oor of a huge Chinatown hawker
center, here Singapores most
compelling selection of cra
beers ows through up to eight
tapsand thats all there is to it.
This no-frills approach leads to
bargain deals on these normally
pricey brews, plus the owners are
happy to suggest hawker-food
pairings for your pints. Hint:
everything goes well with satay.
Chinatown Complex, #02-062
Smith St.; 65/9430-2750;
facebook.com/smithstreettaps;
pints for two from S$20.
Sugarhall This bar-and-grill
from the team behind speakeasy
Jigger & Pony arrived amidst an
avalanche of new bars riding
Singapores handcraed libations
craze, but Sugarhalls simple
steakhouse fare and 18 cleverly
conceived cocktails help it stand
out from the competition. The
restaurant scores bonus points
for a breezy soundtrack heavy on
reggae, ska and hip-hop. 102
Amoy St.; 65/9732-5607;
sugarhall.sg; dinner and drinks for
two from S$60.
INDULGE
So Spa Taking over the nowclosed Spa Botanica, So Spa is

the luxury chains largest facility
in the world. Before your
treatment in one of the spas 14
private rooms, unwind with a
stroll through the outdoor
meditative labyrinth and a soak
in the mud poolaccess is
included with all one-hour
treatments. The Singapore Resort
& Spa Sentosa, 2 Bukit Manis Rd.;
65/6275-0331; singapore
resortsentosa.com/sospa.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F A LT. P I Z Z A ; C O U R T E S Y O F 1 9 2 5 M I C R O B R E W E R Y & R E S TA U R A N T; C O U R T E S Y O F S M I T H S T R E E T TA P S ; C O U R T E S Y O F S O F I T E L S O S I N G A P O R E ; C O U R T E S Y O F S O S P A
combination of California cra

brews and 28-centimeter pizzas
at rock-bottom prices. Alt. Pizza
is Asias rst restaurant oering
dra beers from the Humboldt
Bay, California, microbrewery
Lost Coast, and its DIY pies can
be loaded with everything from
manchego to blue crab to wagyu
short-rib meatballs. Suntec City
Tower 4, #01-6023, Temasek
Boulevard; 65/6836-9207;
altpizza.com.sg; dinner for two
from S$35.
ransform the wedding of your dreams into reality thats what we do.
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A menber of
Small Luxury Hotels
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85 luxurious villas 3 ozonated pools (excluding private ones) 3 signature dining establishments & bar
world-acclaimed anumba spa club del mar for chilling personalized sea and land experiences to-die-for-views complimentary
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2014
THAILAND
By Jeninne Lee-St. John
STAY
Kata Rocks Phuket goes mod at

this whitewashed, cliside resort
where Italian leather-furnished
villas have sta and pools. The
spa is a tech-fusion haven with a
chromotherapy chamber for
chakra healing. No wonder this
34-room spot has snagged a ton
of awards, despite having just
opened. 186/22 Kok Tanode Rd.,
Kata, Phuket; 66-7/637-0777;
katarocks.com; doubles from
Bt35,000.
Sala Ayutthaya Riverfront bliss
abounds at this boutique. The
cozy crisp-white rooms overlook
an idyllic view of the Chao Phraya
River and the ancient
Phutthaisawan temple, which
gleams on the opposite bank.
9/2 Moo 4, U-Thong Rd., Phra
Nakhon Si Ayutthaya;
salaayutthaya.com; 66-35/242588; doubles from Bt3,200.
Clockwise from top: Views from Sala Ayutthaya; the ground floor of
velveteen Smalls; Hemingways Sazerac cocktail at Vesper; the brassy
A.R. Sutton & Co Engineers Siam; baci pizza rolls at Peppina.
EAT
Peppina Rome wasnt built in a

day, but its dining scene might
have been had Jarrett Wrisley
and Paolo Vitaletti run the show.
Following last years perennially
booked Roman spot Appia comes
their perennially full Neapolitan
pizzeria. Vitaletti ew to Italy to
study the art, and brought back
an oven and chef to make dough.
Grazie, we say. 27/1 Sukhumvit
Soi 33, Bangkok; 66-2/119-7677;
facebook.com/peppinapizza;
dinner for two Bt1,000.
Sensi Chef Christian Martena
and wife, Clarabright young
things, bothfront this homey
Italian. The seasonal menu is full
of emulsions but never veers to
precious. Sit at Martenas chefs
table: if anyone can woo you with
a pu of smoke from a jar of
wood-smoked shrimp, its this
guy. Narathiwat Soi 17, Yaek 5,
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D E C E M B E R 2 014
DRINK
A.R. Sutton & Co Engineers

Siam Bangkoks most visionary
bar designer, Ashley Sutton, has
gone solo with this golden-hued
speakeasy-meets-study. Fronted
by a gilded cage, this wee tinceilinged fantasy land feels like
the more sedate big brother of
Suttons beloved Iron Fairies.
Mature along with him, and order
his house-distilled liquors. Park
Lane, 18 Ekamai, Bangkok; drinks
for two Bt500.
Mikkeller and Cra These are
two inevitabilities of the cra
beer boom. At Mikkellers garden
villa, choose from 30 taps (we
say, Vietnamese coee stout)
then settle into your beanbag.
Cra has 10 taps plus by a big
fridge and a more sceney-city
vibe. Either way, bottoms up!
Mikkeller: 26 Ekamai Soi 10, Yaek
2, Bangkok; 66-2/381-9891;
mikkellerbangkok.com. Cra: 16
Sukhumvit Soi 23; 66-2/6613220; crabangkok.com. Drinks
for two at both Bt600.
Smalls This velveteen outpost
breaks the monotony of the
Sathorn strips ve-star hotels.
DJs preside over parties that pull
in the cool kids. The open-air
roof is social and sultry. Yep,
David Jacobsen, of Q Bar infamy,
has imprinted Smalls with his
signature smooth. 186/3 Suan
Phlu Soi 1, Bangkok; 66-95/5851398; drinks for two Bt550.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F S A L A AY U T T H AYA ; C O U R T E S Y O F S M A L L S ; C O U R T E S Y O F V E S P E R ; C O U R T E S Y O F A . R . S U T T O N & C O . E N G I N E E R S S I A M ; C O U R T E S Y O F P E P P I N A .
THE BEST OF
Bangkok; 66-2/117-1618;
facebook.com/sensibangkok;
degustation menus from Bt1,790.
Vesper Why is dinner at Vesper
so delightful? Maybe because
co-owner Debby Tang plies our
favorite salami orecchiette with
the sweetest smile. Or, because
of that carver slicing 5J ham in
the corner. Or, maybe its just
that a meal that moves from an
oak-barrel-aged Negroni through
pages of delicate cocktails is
sure to be very delightful indeed.
10/15 Soi Convent, Bangkok;
66-2/235-2777; vesperbar.co;
dinner for two Bt1,400.
Marking A New Era in Farrer Parks Evolving Landscape
URBAN HOTEL
. LOFT APARTMENTS . SKYLINE HOTEL & SKY VILLAS
In the heart of Singapore, a new lifestyle experience excites the city state with its technology enabled offering
of 243 contemporary chic accommodations; within 3 distinctive 'hotels within a hotel', nine innovative dining
concepts, exclusive wellness and spa facilities and a state-of-the-art conference centre.
Our products and services are thoughtfully conceptualized and crafted to meet, exceed and anticipate the
expectations of our in-house residents and patrons.
Resonating with notes of serenity with its 14 gardens over 20 levels and displaying a curated
art collection of more than 500 pieces from Singapore and Greater Asia, a total lifestyle environment beckons
at One Farrer Hotel & Spa.
A member of
1 Farrer Park Station Road, Singapore 217562
T (+65) 6363 0101 E enquiry@onefarrer.com W onefarrer.com
the Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef/

owner cras tacos and burritos
from fresh local ingredients
alongside his mother-in-law, who
works as the sous-chef. 6 Tu Hoa,
Hanoi; 84-126/613-4178;
saltnlime.com; dinner for two
VND305,000.
THE BEST OF
2014
VIETNAM
Cube Eclectic events from Latin

reggae concerts to themed lm
nights spice up the scene at this
chic venue, one of the more
exciting additions to the
southern citys growing roster of
restobars. 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Saigon; 84-90/336-9798;
facebook.com/thecubesaigon;
drinks for two VND240,000.
Mojito Bar & Lounge The
cocktails here will knock your
socks o. Try a wasabi martini or
a pho cocktailwhile the drink
doesnt include beef bones, it
comes infused with spices and
garnished with lime and chili, just
like the soup. 19 Nguyen Quang
Bich, Hanoi; 84-90/488-6266;
drinks for two VND200,000.
By Elisabeth Rosen
STAY
Alma Courtyard Hoi An

Located in the historic unesco
World Heritage town of Hoi An,
this tranquil resort bundles daily
spa journeys that draw on
Vietnamese culture and
spirituality, from the Legend of
One-Pillar Pagoda to the
Hundred Knot Bamboo Tree, into
the room rate. 326 Ly Thuong
Kiet St., Hoi An; 84-510/3666888; almacourtyardhoian.com;
doubles from VND3,255,000.
The Shells Phu Quoc One of
the newest resorts on this
up-and-coming island in the Gulf
of Thailand, The Shells oers
spacious rooms with oor-toceiling windows overlooking the
beach. Ganh Gio Beach, Duong
Dong, Phu Quoc; 84-77/3718888; theshells.com.vn; doubles
from US$320.
DO
EAT
LEmbellie Set in a colonial

house, this bistro serves elegant
versions of classic French dishes
like bouillabaisse and rabbit la
royale stued with foie gras and
immersed in a red wine and
chocolate sauce. 49 Trieu Viet
Vuong, Hanoi; 84-4/3943-0717;
lembelliehanoi.com; dinner for two
VND1,400,000.
The Racha Room This sleek
bistro turns out Thai-inspired
tapas like chicken wings with
fried basil and rice-encrusted sea
bass, along with hand-craed
cocktails like the Hot & Stormy,
which blends whiskey with chili,
sugar cane juice and ginger beer.
12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Saigon;
84-90/879-1412; facebook.com/
theracharoom; set lunch from
VND160,000 per person.
Salt n Lime At the capitals rst
authentic Mexican restaurant,
62
D E C E M B E R 2 014
Clockwise from top: Magical mixology at Mojito Bar & Lounge;

pool-front suites at The Shells Phu Quoc; cool down at The Racha
Room; Danang street-food tour; fashion-forward Zone X-98.
Danang Street Food Tour

While many visitors skip Danang
in favor of nearby Hoi An, this
recently launched bespoke tour
reveals the unique culinary
highlights of the central city.
Groups are limited to four, letting
the organizer customize meals
based on comfort level; options
range from fresh seafood to
steamed pig brains. 4 Tran Quoc
Toan, Danang; 84-128/7796006; danangfoodtour.com; tours
from VND950,000 per person for
a maximum of four people.
Zone X-98 Inspired by Zone 9,
an arts complex that closed last
year, this similarly styled fashion
destination features
boutiques spotlighting
cool local designers.
Take a break from
shopping to duck
into one of the fab
oeat bars or
eateries, like
German-style
dessert shop
Wunder Wael.
97 Hoang Cau
St., Hanoi; 8490/401-7007;
facebook.com/
khux98.
CLOCK WISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF MOJITO BAR & LOUNGE; COURTESY OF THE SHELLS PHU QUOC; COURTESY OF THE R ACHA ROOM; COURTESY OF DANANG STREET FOOD
T O U R ; C O U R T E S Y O F Z O N E X9 8 .
DRINK
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Making a Splash at Vana Nava

Hua Hin, Thailand
My daughter Lucy is passionate about
water parks. She talks about the ones
shes been to and the ones she would like
to visit the way car enthusiasts talk about
Ferraris. Over the years, weve been
dragged to water parks in Hong Kong, Bali,
Mumbai and Toronto. Shes spends hours
online investigating water slides and rates
them on an excitement level.
A few days ago she discovered Vana
Nava Hua Hin, a gargantuan new water
park in Thailand that opens this month.
She has already started lobbying and I
know that well soon be packing our
sunblock and ip-ops and heading to the
resort town of Hua Hin.
For families, Vana Nava is fun waiting
to happen. With 3.2 hectares of
entertainment, the park features Asias
First Water Jungle with more than
200,000 ora and fauna, year around
events, concerts and 19 water attractions

for all ages ranging from the Lazy River
where people bob placidly along on inner
tubes to the amnesia-inducing AquaLoop.
In Lucys never-ending quest from the
ultimate water slide, the AquaLoop is the
Holy Grail. A trap door opens, plunges
you down and loops you 360 degrees back
around at maximum G-force. It lasts only
a few breathless seconds but is terrifying
enough to make a grown man cry.
Add to these, Thailands rst Abyss
ridethe largest slide in the country
where six people share a giant yellow
inner tube and spin into a funnel at mad
speeds; Boomerango that shoots you up
and down a vertical wall at 45 kilometres
per hour; and Vana Nava Falls, the tallest
man-made waterfall in Asia.
Whenever my daughter begs to go to a
water park, safety is uppermost in my
mind. Vana Nava adheres to stringent

international safety standards and
provides a state-of-the-art, environmental
water purication system.
Knowing Lucy is getting her adrenalin
rush in safety allows me to relax and take
in some of the facilities that cater to
parents. Early evening will nd me chilling
out in my bathrobe and ip-op at the
Vana Nana shop or at one of the half
dozen restaurants cuddling a welldeserved cocktail.
Sales Ofce (Bangkok) : +662 105 4136 Email : info@vananava.com Website : www.vananavahuahin.com Facebook : www.facebook.com/VanaNavaHuaHin
Radar
b o o ks
A WORD FROM THE KITCHEN
Four new cookbooks bring the world to your table.
Never Trust a Skinny Italian Chef is the credo of Massimo Bottura,

who celebrates 20 years at the helm of Osteria Francescana, in Modena, Italy,
with this beautifully produced book of recipes, stories and photographs.
+ In The Slanted Door, Charles Phan pairs signature dishes such as wokcharred eggplant and bn riu soup with meditations on tea, cocktails and
his revered San Francisco restaurant. + Margarita Carrillo Arrontes
encyclopedic Mexico: The Cookbook includes more than 600 authentic and
accessible recipes, including selections by Enrique Olvera, Alex Stupak and
other champions of the cuisine. + Heritage, the coffee-table-ready cookbook
debut by Virginia-born chef Sean Brock, tells the delectable story of the
evolution of Lowcountry cooking. LINDSEY OLANDER
television
What inspired screenwriter John Fusco (of

Hidalgo fame) to create Marco Polo, a new
Netix series based on the life of the
13th-century Venetian explorer? An epic
journey of his ownguided by nomads
through Central Asia on horse and camel.
Aer that 2007 trek (and later trips to
far-ung corners of China), Fusco resolved to
turn the story of the worlds rst globe-trotter
into a TV drama.
With unknown 24-year-old Italian actor

Lorenzo Richelmy (below) in the title rolehe
reminded me of a young Brando, Fusco
saysshooting began in Venice in March.
And then, just like Marco Polo, we traveled
east, Fusco says. Kazakhstan (le) stood in
for ancient Constantinople, Karakorum and
other Silk Road stops, with hundreds of
extras reenacting intense battles
on the steppe. Later scenes,
including those at Kublai Khans
court, were shot on elaborate
sets at a studio in Malaysia.
Its said that with his last
breath, Marco Polo
whispered, I did not tell
half of what I saw.
Fuscos series should
help ll in the blanks.
Dec. 12; netix.com.
katie james
FROM TOP: PHILIP FRIEDMA N; N E TFLIX 2
MARCO POLO RIDES AGAIN
r e s tau r a n t s
MEAT MARKET MANIA
COURTESY OF THE BUTCHERS CLUB
Looks like Bali is in the mood for

meat. Hong Kongs famed dryaged beef and burger joint, The
Butchers Club Burger, is taking its
show on the road with an opening
in Seminyak this month. A
proprietary dry-aging facility
off-site will feed the menu, which
will follow the Hong Kong
branchs formula: one staple
dry-aged beef burger with
maple-glazed bacon and cheddar
cheese, supplemented by a
rotating roster of secret selections
accessible through a QR code.
The rst Butchers Club Burger
opened in Hong Kongs Wanchai
in the spring, and this year the
Butchers Club Deli and
neighboring The Butchers Club
Shop retail store in Wong Chuk
Hang joined the fast-expanding
outlets. Though the fourth venue
is the only one outside of Hong
Kong, Jonathan Glover, founder
and owner of The Butchers Club,
specically calls it the rst of our
international outlets. In fact, Bali

is just the tip of the atlas. Talks are
already under way for venues in
Singapore, Dubai, Shanghai and
even Sweden.
The market is truly
international, Glover says of Bali,
lled with holiday-makers and
expats who we are certain will
agree with the foodies of Hong
Kong in thinking that ours is the
best burger they have ever tasted.
As a bonus, he says, it means we
now have the perfect holiday
destinationwhich I will
denitely be visiting on a regular
basis. With the butcher-in-chief
swooping in for fun, sun and
quality control, we say, chow
down! The Butchers Club Burger
Bali: Jalan Cendrawasih,
Lingkungan Umasari, Kerobokan
Kelod, Jutautara, Badung. The
Butchers Club Burger Hong Kong:
G/F, Rialto Building, 2 Landale
St.,Wanchai; butchersclub.com.hk;
burgers for two HK$200. +
The Butchers Clubs doubledecker burger stands tall.
Radar
3
2
fa s h i o n
GOING IN STYLE
From posh to practical, 20 must-haves for
looking dashing (through the snow)
this winter holiday.
5
1
1 Fountain pen with leather pouch, $1,650, Herms. 2 In the Spirit Of

travel book set, $295, by Juniper Books. 3 Leather bag, $1,995, Dressage
Collection. 4 Leather-trimmed canvas jacket, $2,170, Prada. 5 Stainlesssteel-and-pink-gold Lucea watch, $7,950, Bulgari. 6 Cashmere-and-fox-fur
scarf, $1,865, Inverni. 7 Leather travel wallet, $295, Want Les Essentiels de
la Vie. 8 Leather suitcase, $8,650, Berluti. 9 Hand-knit Italian-yarn sweater,
$795, Tabula Rasa. 10 Cashmere slippers, $350, Mara & Mine. 11 Wildly
Gold Collection makeup palette, $95, and Touche clat highlighter.
10
11
66
D E C E M B E R 2 014
* Prices throughout are listed in

US dollars, but may vary
by country and retailer.
YA S U + J U N K O . S T Y L E D B Y M I M I L O M B A R D O . M A R K E T E D I T O R : C O U R T N E Y K E N E F I C K
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AN ENCH
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IN A LA
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AN PARI
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A taste of tropical luxury on the magical island of Bali

BOASTING MAGNIFICENT VIEWS OF THE SHIMMERING SEA, SOFITEL BALI NUSA DUA BEACH RESORTS
SPACIOUS
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Radar
12
15
14
A New
Leading Light
in City Living
13
16
18
LiT BANGKOK Residence

offers that rare combination of
downtown convenience that is
also a haven of calm; a true
home.
17
Innovative design, state of the

art amenities, international
service standards and delightful
Thai touches are set to redefine
contemporary Thai living.
Come home to the city.
20
19
12 Cotton-twill backpack, $195, Skagen Denmark. 13 2-in-1 packable

down jacket and neck pillow, $195, Tumi Outerwear. 14 Stainless-steel Oyster
Perpetual diving watch, $10,400, Rolex. 15 Polycarbonate carry-on suitcase, $475,
Rimowa. 16 Portable color palette, $55, Laura Mercier. 17 Leather cross-body bag,
$595, Vince. 18 Down parka, $695, Polo Ralph Lauren. 19 Mini Luna sonic facial
cleansing brush, $139, Foreo. 20 Mesh-and-rubber sneakers, $135, Swims.
T. +66 26 123456 www.litbangkok.com
hotel experience in Maldives

A LUXURY HIDEAWAY
Experience the Ultimate luxury holiday in the Maldives at this
5 star hotel. A marvel of space, taste and refinement. Luxury
without ostentation.
Begin the U-experience: call (230) 402 2772/73
or visit us at www.constancehotels.com
Radar
locafile
TAIPEI PERSONALITY
It takes a seasoned touch to mine this capitals vast quarry of cool.

T+L asked three longtimers to tap into the citys secrets.
1
6
2
THE DJ
Marcus Aurelius
Resident DJ of
Havana Pool Party
Moved from the U.S. in 1998
favorite neighborhood The Xinyi area at

night is a people-watching paradise, especially
1 Taipei 101 (taipei-101.com.tw)
because
lights up the background so superbly. in-town
escape An hour floating in a saltwater tank at
Dream Water (dreamwater.asia/en; sessions
from NT$1,200) can give you great insight into
your own mind. weekend getaway Taichung
is the spot to find fancy romantic hotels at
reasonable prices for your own private party
with a loved one. best new find The Shrimp
Daddy (11 Lane 180, Guangfu South Rd., Daan
District; 886-2/2771-0910; meal for two
NT$2,000), a gumbo restaurant that serves
dinner in a bag. quintessential taipei bite
2 Toasteria (toasteriacafe.com/en;
sandwiches for two NT$200) has taken the

grilled cheese sandwich experience to the next
level. The food is exquisite and the ambience is
always pitch-perfect. on fridays im
usually Getting a quick DJ practice session
in before heading out to Room 18 (B1, 22
Songshou Rd.; room18.com.tw; drinks for two
NT$400) for the electronic dance music.
70
D E C E M B E R 2 014
THE WRITER
Sunny Su
Freelance writer and author of
Au Tour de la France
Moved from Kaohsiung in 2005
underrated outing Dont miss

3 Yangmingshan National Park (english.
ymsnp.gov.tw). There are many beautiful paths

for hikers and Xiaoyoukeng trail is my
favorite. hotel recommendation Wego
Boutique Hotel (we-go.com.tw/dazhi; doubles
from NT$2,800) in Dazhi. There are more than
20 themed rooms; ask for the Lovely Bali room.
last great meal Fried noodles at
4 Shuiyuan Market, in front of National
Taiwan University. When I have no idea what

to eat, I just go there. best reason to live in
taipei You can do so much in a single day. Wake
up early to go hiking at Yangming Mountain,
then visit the National Palace Museum (221
Zhishan Rd., Section 2, Shilin District; general
admission NT$250), and at night sing karaoke
at KTV (Holiday KTV; holiday.com.tw). only in
taipei can you go shrimp fishing (Fishes the
Shrimp Field, 13 Zhishan Rd., Section 3, Shilin
District) in the city. taipei tip Get an Easycard
(easycard.com.tw). It makes it easy to get
around on public transportation and you can
use it instead of cash to pay for anything.
THE ROCKER
Freddy Lim
Lead singer of Chthonic;
writer; activist
Born and raised in Taipei
if taipei were a style of music it

would be Indie pop, not too commercial but
business-minded at the same time. on
fridays im usually At Under the Big Tree
(2 Lane 382, Jiaxing St.; meal for two NT$400).
You eat seafood, drink beer, chat with friends.
Its the best combination. what nobody
tells you Many well-known tourist
5 Chiang Kai-shek
attractions such as
Memorial Hall are named for the worlds
fourth most murderous dictator. best live
music venue Legacy (legacy.com.tw;
Huashan 1914, 1 Bade Rd., Section 1). The
lighting and sound are very professional, and
even size of the venue can be controlled so that
different bands can stage performances in
their own way. quintessential taipei bite
Stinky tofu. For that I go to A-Chiangs Stinky
Tofu (45 Jingmei St., Wenshan District, dinner
for two NT$200) at Jingmei Night Market.
6 Beitou retains
favorite neighborhood
many historical monuments and rare places,
and proves this is more than just a crazy
growing city.JOE HENLEY
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: S E A N P A V O N E / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; M C Y E H / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; J I N G A I P I N G / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; M I C H A E L YA M A S H I TA / C O R B I S ;
C O U R T E S Y O F F R E D D Y L I M ; C O U R T E S Y O F S U N N Y S U ; D U N C A N L O N G D E N ; C O U R T E S Y O F T O A S T E R I A ; C O U R T E S Y O F TA I P E I F I L M C O M M I S S I O N
Radar
point of view
THE UPSIDE OF JET LAG
ost people will tell you that sunset is the optimal

time to visit Humayuns Tomb, the red-sandstoneand-white-marble mausoleum in Delhi that
inspired the Taj Mahal. (To my eyes its even more
beautiful than its successor.) Me, Im partial to
sunrise. In this otherwise chaotic city, its one of
the rare peaceful times to explore its hectares of
Persian-style gardens planted with mango and lemon trees.
Wandering the grounds one morning, enjoying the quiet
while nibbling from a pack of shortbread cookies Id grabbed
from my mini-bar, I had the place to myself. Birdsong
mingled with the whistles of distant trains and the aroma
72
D E C E M B E R 2 014
of jasmine, cut grass and, from somewhere in the city,

burning plastic. (This was still Delhi, after all.) Across the
treetops, a brown sun peeked over a hazy brown horizon.
Behind the mausoleum I passed the only other human
on the premises: a groundskeeper trimming hedges with a
scythe. He nodded at me and smiled. At that moment,
from high in a banyan tree, two dozen macaques started to
shriek and screech. En masse, they began dropping from the
branches, oating to the ground like paratroopersand
suddenly a band of simian zombies was rushing straight at
me. In no time, ve or six were on my shoulders, swiping at
my arms and tugging at my hair.
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y J O S H C O C H R A N
For travelers, early mornings are when a place truly reveals itself.
By Peter Jon Lindberg
The bees-cuits!! the groundskeeper

cried from across the lawn. Throwww
the beees-cuits!!
It took me a second to recognize the
Britishism, then I let y the cookies,
shot-putting them into a fountain. The
troop scrambled off in pursuit, setting
upon their prize in a urry of wet fur
and ngernails. It was just past 6 a.m.,
and I was as awake as Id ever been.
am not a morning person. I am

a lover of evenings and midnights,
rmly oriented to the post
meridiem. (It took me some time to
realize there was a 6 a.m.) On
the road, however, I make a point
of waking early. Just as safari guides
have you up at dawn to catch the
days prime activity, the world rewards
those who rise before the sun.
Jet lag often makes this imperative,
as do crazy-early ight arrivals.
I remember landing at Heathrow on
a Sunday morning with my parents at
age 13, only to learn our B&B wouldnt
take us till noon; we wandered
Londons vacant streets for hours,
searching in vain for an open
restaurant. (Picture 28 Days Later,
but with Samsonite roll-aboards.)
But there are good reasons to hit
the town before sunrise. Mornings are
when a place is most specically
itselfbefore its properly dressed or
put together, unaware that anyones
watching when it steps out for the
paper in a bathrobe. Like waking in a
strangers bed, theres a disarming
intimacy to seeing a place in the pale
light of dawn.
Things are different just an hour or
two later. Under the days full glare, a
foreign place can appear too foreign,
too harsh, too much. But in mornings
gauzy half-light, hard edges soften and
the most overwhelming metropolis
achieves a certain gentleness, before
the heat and the clamor roll in.
Some of my favorite travel memories
are from 4 or 5 a.m.s around the world,
badly immortalized in hundreds
of grainy, inchoate photographs. (Its
almost impossible to capture that
particular, primordial light with a
UNDER THE DAYS FULL

GLARE, A FOREIGN PLACE
CAN APPEAR TOO
FOREIGN, TOO HARSH, TOO
MUCH. BUT IN THE
MORNINGS GAUZY
HALF-LIGHT, THE MOST
OVERWHELMING
METROPOLIS ACHIEVES
A CERTAIN GENTLENESS
camera: in this case, you really do
need to be there.) I remember,
for instance, a predawn walk on
the beach in Trancoso, Brazil: earth
and sky and surf drained of color,
hermit crabs scarcely bothering
to move at my approach. Last nights
phosphorescence sparkled faintly on
the sand. The world felt like a carnival
ride that had yet to be turned on.
I remember returning from a late
night out in Paris, crossing the Pont
Neuf as the sky went purple to pink.
Off the Rue de Seine I passed the open
door of a still-closed boulangerie, out
of which came an intoxicating smell of
butter and yeast. Someone had left a
rack of warm baguettes in the doorway
to cool in the crisp morning air. There
was no one else in sight. I stood there
for 17 seconds before realizing what
had to be done. It was the best baguette
Id ever tasted.
But mostly I remember mornings in
Asia, where dawns transformational
power feels most profound. It helps
that the time zones are a half-day off
from home, such that nocturnals
like me are wide awake at daybreak
right in sync with the city itself. In
Asia, morninglife feels like nightlife.
Its not just street sweepers and
saffron-robed monks; theres a whole
parallel morning economy at work.
Follow my lead, roust yourself from

your Tokyo hotel bed at 4 a.m., and
youll see what frenzied activity goes
down before the sun is up. Your taxi
will glide down empty expressways
as if youre in rural Nebraska, not a city
of 13 million. On the sidewalks of
Ginza, stray revelers are staggering
home from their revelries. One girl is
dressed as Snow White. Youll start to
wonder if youre actually awake.
Finally, youll pull up at the Tsukiji
Fish Market, amid a madcap ballet
of forklifts. They careen at you full
tilt, then swerve at the last possible
moment. Everyone is wide awake,
smoking and wearing rubber boots
except you. You are wearing an
ill-advised pair of loafers, which in a
few hours will be summarily tossed
in your hotel trash bin, the reek of
sh guts so pervasive that no amount
of free shoe-shining could possibly
remove it.
You make your way inside to the
famous tuna auction. From a corner
you watch the action unfold, and in
your transpacic delirium youre
convinced you understand whats
going on. Men with poles are poking a
lifeless 220-kilogram tuna while
smoking and shouting at each other.
This could get ugly quick. You escape
out a side door. Moments later youre at
Sushi Dai, a workaday joint beside the
market, sipping ice-cold Sapporo while
queuing for a counter seat. Soon youre
properly and irretrievably drunk, at
6:15 a.m. on a Tuesday, gorging on botan
ebi and sake as if it were Friday night.
Back at your hotel, the newspapers
not even on the doorknob yet.
ut my all-time favorite morning

ritual is a walk around Hoan
Kiem Lake in Hanoi, which, on
winter mornings, drapes itself in
a lacy veil of mist. Willows dip
their branches in the jade-green water.
A red-lacquered wooden footbridge
leads from the shore to a small island
temple, where tendrils of incense rise
to meet low-hanging clouds. The
bridge is called the Huc, or place of
morning sunlight, although it is
D E C E M B E R 2 014
73
usually shrouded in fog, such that as

you cross youre bound to feel youre
stepping into nothingness.
A recent visit was no different.
I rose at dawn to make a few circuits
round the lake. As always, a
cluster of elderly Vietnamese women
were silently practicing tai chi on
the grassy banks. Farther along, a
rowdier group had assembled,
ash-mob-style, for their
performance of what we used to call
calisthenics. One can chart the
globalization of Hanoi life by the
soundtrack: in the 90s it was lilting
Vietnamese folk tunes; now its
Single Ladies. Back then, the
women wore traditional pajamas;
today they wear yoga pants or
counterfeit tracksuits emblazoned
JUICEY CULTURE . After swiveling hips
en masse, they circled up to form a
40-car massage train.
In the park, four boys dressed in
blue-and-white school uniforms
r ec o n
THE LATEST
NEED-TO-KNOW
OPENINGS
hotels Tis the season for
Four Seasons hotel debuts:
Johannesburg welcomes
the reborn Westcliff
(fourseasons.com; doubles
from R4,685), with five
restaurants, a spa and a
bold new look (zebra
prints; vibrant blues).
Meanwhile, the Four
Seasons Resort Dubai
at Jumeirah Beach
(doubles from Dhs2,755)
stakes its claim on prime
Persian Gulf waterfront.
The 237 spacious rooms
have marble floors,
walk-in closets and
balconies looking out onto
the Burj Khalifa and the
laughed over an increasingly

competitive game of badminton. The
sidewalk pho vendor was already
serving breakfast; early-shift workers
crouched over steaming bowls of
broth. The odd Hanoians who still
ride bikesthere are a fewwere
visible at this hour, before the
motorbikes and SUVs scared them
back into hiding. The jingle of old
bicycle bells is the sweetest sound
you can imagine.
After my pho and another lap
around the lake, the sun nally broke
through the mist, and the heat of the
day settled in. When it got too hot I
returned to my hotel to take refuge
in the lobby AC. But by now the
pho vendors hearty broth had made
me sleepy, like it often does. So I
climbed upstairs and slipped back into
bed, with the sights and sounds of the
morning still jostling in my head, and
I dreamed of incense and shuttlecocks
and bicycles and bridges to clouds. +
rest of the skyline. The

Adam D. Tihanydesigned
rooftop bar enjoys the
same view. + Good news
for travelers looking to
escape cold climates: there
are two new properties
debuting in sunny Bali. Set
in a former fishing village,
Fairmont Sanur Beach
(fairmont.com; doubles
from US$350) is a
charming four-hectare
property home to 94 suites
and 26 pool villas, which
range from one to three
bedrooms. A more urban
escape, smack in the center
of the island s hustle and
bustle, the 321-room
Mercure Bali Legian
(mercurebalilegian.com;
doubles from US$46), is a
walkable distance to
Seminyak and Kuta .
+ An epic 16th-century
love story between a
Vietnamese princess and a
Japanese merchant
unfolds throughout 119

elaborate guestrooms at
Hotel Royal Hoi An
(mgallery.com; doubles
from US$149), while
canopy beds, traditional
textiles and views of the
Bon River keep the
romance alive.
restaurant Only a
couple of months after
receiving a Michelin star
for his Upper Modern
Bistro, chef Philippe
Orrico has opened the
two-level ON Dining
Kitchen and Foodie Bar
(28-29/F, 18 On Lan St.;
menu not released as of
press time) in Hong Kongs
Central. The food is a blend
of southern European and
zesty Mediterranean
flavors. Guests can
observe the action in the
open kitchen, or walk up a
floor to enjoy casual bites
and cocktails.
CHEERS!
KANPA
SKOL!
PROST
!
FURAH
COURTESY OF STOCK TON
I!
IA!
Travel globally, sip locally: no matter the destination, sometimes all you need is a refreshing
drink and a spirited crowd to get an inside view of a place and its culture.
Go on, raise your glasses2015 awaits with loads of new adventures.
The Ribston Apple Punch, a spiced rum, Amaretto and apple cider cocktail,
at Hong Kongs Stockton Bar, is sure to put you in the holiday mood.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
77
Above Eleven,
in Bangkok.
NEW YEARS VIEWS
Fireworks are more dynamite in the open air. If youre traveling on December 31,
consider one of these hotels with alfresco bars where you can drink in the scene.
The Setting
The Vibe
YIN ON 12
A polished roof
terrace at the New
World Hotel is split
between a lively
grill and a
cocktails-only bar.
Upmarket
swagger with
old-school
views of the
Forbidden City.
Single-malts that pair

beautifully with Cuban
cigars, or try the Long
Yin Iced Tea and savor
the sweet
chrysanthemum kick.
Sheer drama.
Waves crash
against platforms
on rocks at the
oceans edge of
Ayana Resort.
Exotic
exclusivity to
which drinkers
are delivered
via a private
funicular.
We like the broad use of

ginger in the tropical
cocktails. Get the avormelding Harakiri: sake,
fresh ginger, wasabi,
passion fruit and lime.
The Crimson
poured US$2
million into their
perfect-for-sunset
hotspot, newly
opened in October.
A friendly buzz
engulfs the
tanners in the
sand and the
gourmands in
the eatery.
Lifes a beach! The

Foamy Colada is the
obvious choice.
An enchanted
garden on Frasers
Suites serves
sweet cityscapes
and PeruvianJapanese food.
Salsa to hiphop, daybeds to

rocking chairs:
this green roof
has something
for everyone.
A menu that includes

three varieties of pisco
sours and sake-inected
cocktails maintain the
fusion theme.
jeninne lee-st. john
Beijing
beijing.
newworld
hotels.com
ROCK BAR
Bali
ayanaresort.
com
AZURE BEACH
CLUB
Cebu
crimsonhotel.
com
ABOVE ELEVEN
Bangkok
frasers
hospitality.com
The Drinks
C O U R T E S Y O F S O H O H O S P I TA L I T Y
The Place
Justin Dunne
Namsaah Bottling Trust
A veteran expat player in
the local scene, Dunne has
handled some of the citys
most formative projects
including Bed Supperclub,
Ku De Ta and now Namsaah.
His partnership with
Bangkoks highest prole
chef, Ian Kittichai, has
resulted in this latest
sensory adventure nestled
in a colorful old colonial
house in Silom.
signature drink
Sangsom Whiskey Sour,
balancing the potentially
lethal local spirit with
caramel syrup, egg white
and a pinch of salt.
facebook.com/
namsaahbottlingtrust.
Joseph Boroski
J. Boroski Mixology
The enigmatic Boroski is a
man about town, but we
found him lurking in his new
secret namesake bar in
Thonglor. In true Boroski
style, this bolt-hole has no
website, no map, no sign,
not even an ocial name
just a great reputation for
bespoke cocktails, cozy
surrounds and a savvy
crowd. Plus, a peacock.
signature drink
The bar menu is so
mysterious, it doesnt even
exist. Drinks are made
based on what you feel and
what the maestro has on
hand. Recent journeying has
seen him return with mezcal
from the U.S., pink guava
from Taiwan, lava salt from
Hawaii... any or all of which
may wind up in your glass.
josephboroski.com.
Chanond Purananda
Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo
This dapper Bangkok boy
and mixology mentor o en
judges cutthroat bartending
competitions like Bacardi
Legacy and the Monin Cup.
These days, Purananda
helms the bar at Hyde &
Seeks new iteration, Peeka-Booa brave foray of the
established brand into the
cluster of outlets at
Groove@CentralWorld.
signature drink
The St. Tropez Smash, a
blend of Ketel One vodka,
fresh passion fruit,
watermelon, vanilla and
citrus, is the pinnacle pour
of the cocktail institution.
hydeandseek.com.
MEN BEHIND BARS

Meet the gents grooming Bangkoks ever-sophisticated
after-dark scene. From barrel-aging techniques to an
artisanal distillery, these five bold barkeeps push this citys
cocktails a cut above the rest. By Richard Mcleish
P HOTOG R A P H ED BY C H RISTIA N HOGU E AT A . R. SU T TON & CO ENGIN EERS SIA M . ST Y LING A N D P ROPS BY M AC HIN E AG E WORKSHOP
Thomas Anstam
U.N.C.L.E.
Anstam, along with the
Sorum brothers, is part of
the trio you could call the
godfathers of Bangkok
mixology. Theyve steered
the openings of Rocket,
Lady Brett Tavern and Viva
Aviv, for example. Their
latest, the well-heeled
speakeasy-ish U.N.C.L.E.
cocktail den, is a study in all
the Swedish team is about:
premium drinks in
considered settings, with
that unwavering Nordic eye
for detail.
signature drink
What Your U.N.C.L.E.
Drinks, featuring Calvados,
tawny port, fresh tangerine,
pomegranate, lime, light
vanilla bean syrup and dry
ginger ale. avunculus.com.
Ash Sutton
A.R. Sutton & Co
Engineers Siam
Sutton leaves an impression
as lasting as his quirky
bar-design legacies that
have shaped the citys
nightscape over the past
few years. His latest
imaginative romp in Ekamai
is like a colonial Wonka
Factory, with a Brothers
Grimm undertone.
signature drink
A lowball of the homeinfused Sailor Jerry Spiced
Rumthat is, until Sutton
gets his white-liquor
distiller cranking. .com/
a.r.sutton.engineers.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
81
WINE REGIONS TO WATCH
T+L exper ts Bruce Schoenfeld and Merritt Gurley identify four

emerging destinationsand the best bottles in each.
KHAO YAI
MOLDOVA
SWARTLAND
TASMANIA
This hilly region in

Thailand is still in
the nascent stages
of churning out fine
wines, but fresh
talent and grape
varieties are vastly
improving the
vintages.
Local producers
are creating bold
wines from
international
varieties (Merlot,
Syrah) as well as
indigenous grapes
such as Feteasc
Neagr.
A hour and a world

away from South
Africas manicured
Cape Winelands,
entrepreneurs
are growing
old-vine Chenin
Blanc, Syrah and
Cinsault.
Fruity Pinot Noirs

and full-throttle
Rieslings are
replacing sparkling
wines as the
Australian islands
most exciting
exports.
T+L Pick
The GranMonte
2009 Asoke
Cabernet
Sauvignon Syrah
(granmonte.com)
blend is full-bodied
and fruit-driven:
youll taste the red
berries, bell
peppers, plums,
vanilla and spices.
T+L Pick
A blend of
Cabernet
Sauvignon and
regional grapes,
the Purcari 2008
Negru de Purcari
(purcari.md) could
pass as an exotic,
pricey Napa red,
with notes of anise
and raspberry jam.
T+L Pick
Sadie Family
2012 Old Vines
Series Pofadder
Cinsault
(thesadiefamily.
com) looks like a
ros, tastes
like tart cherries,
and has the
full-bodied punch
of a great Syrah.
T+L Pick
Theres a
lingering,
Burgundy-like
finish to the
plum-colored,
cherry-scented
Freycinet
Vineyards 2012
Pinot Noir
(freycinet
vineyard.com.au).
Where to Sip
The vineyards
onsite VinCotto
Restaurant
(granmonte.com/
vincotto; dinner for
two Bt1,200) has an
impressive wine
library and charming
garden terrace.
Where to Sip
Carpe Diem
(wineshop.md),
a well-stocked
shop and
tasting room
in the capital,
Chiinu.
Where to Sip
On the shaded
terrace of Bar Bar
Black Sheep
(bbbs.co.za; dinner
for two R350),
in the 17thcentury town
Riebeek-Kasteel.
Where to Sip
Ethos Eat Drink
(ethoseatdrink.com;
prix fixe with wine
pairing from A$150),
one of Hobarts
most creative
kitchens, also has a
wine and cocktail
bar downstairs.
T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F G R A N M O N T E A S O K E V A L L E Y V I N E YA R D . C E N T E R R O W , F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F G R A N M O N T E A S O K E V A L L E Y V I N E YA R D ; C O U R T E S Y O F P U R C A R I ; C O U R T E S Y O F S A D I E F A M I LY W I N E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F F R E Y C I N E T.
B O T T O M R O W , F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F G R A N M O N T E A S O K E V A L L E Y V I N E YA R D ; C O U R T E S Y O F C A R P E D I E M W I N E S H O P & B A R ; C O U R T E S Y O F B A R B A R B L A C K S H E E P ; C O U R T E S Y O F E T H O S E AT D R I N K
GranMonte
Asoke Valley
vineyard.
SPECIAL PROMOTION
A NEW LOOK LANDMARK

While the Mandarin Orchard Singapore has been a landmark on Orchard Road for more
than 40 years, its a hotel that is forever looking forward. Newly renovated Mandarin
Premier Rooms are designed with guest feedback in mind and, at their heart, focus on
space, comfort and functionality. That means generous work areas, bathrooms with
separate showers and bathtubs, 42-inch at screen TVs, state-of-the-art lighting, and
easily accessible data and electrical ports. Meritus Club Lounge at Top of the M exudes a
feel of exclusivity for business travelers high above the city.
Any visit to Singapore wouldnt be complete without a taste of iconic local dishes. Thats
where Chatterbox comes into play, with Mandarin Chicken Ricethe best selling dish on
the menu here since it was introduced in 1971Lobster Laksa and King Prawn Fried
Hokkien Noodles. Any visit to this Asian powerhouse wouldnt be complete without trying
these dishes. www.meritushotels.com
Liquid Laundry Kitchen & Brew.
The guys behind

Craftpoint Brewing Co.
Fishrider Pale
Ale at Joes Brew.
ASIAN ALES
Southeast Asias craft beer craze is beyond firmly established, and

its still spreading. Brian Spencer rounds up some of the regions
newest and most notable breweries.
HONG KONG
Stainless steel
fermentation tanks anchor
the minimalist Tipping
Point Brewing Co.
(tippingpointbrewingco.
com), Hong Kongs rst
proper gastropub. Chef and
founder Que Vinh Dang ups
the ante on bar bites with
such savory succulence
as Vietnamese pork neck
skewers and General Tsaos
chicken wings; draft brews
are conveniently available
by the take-away cup.
+ Nine Dragons Brewery
(ninedragonsbrewery.hk) is
one of the only Hong Kong
microbreweries bottling.
Look for their big-bodied
Double Hoppiness IPA
and grassy New Territory
Pilsner at specialty shops
like HK Brewcra
(hkbrewcraft.com).
MANILA
Launched by three
seasoned homebrewers,
Crapoint Brewing Co.
(craftpointbrew.com) so far
offers two signature ales:
a light, luscious Summer
Sessions Blonde Alethe
perfect gateway beer for
craft neophytes and the
complex, full-avored
Liberation Pale Ale. + The
Fish Rider Pale Ale from
Joes Brew (joesbrew.com)
is a hot climate-friendly
oral bomb.
SHANGHAI
A slick spin-off of the

citys award-winning
Boxing Cat Brewery,
Liquid Laundry Kitchen
& Brew (facebook.com/
theliquidlaundry) is the
gastropub playground of
BCB brewmaster Michael
Jordan and chef Kelley

Lee. Snack on housemade
sausages while watching
the brewers in action and
sipping the froths of their
labor (the Tripel Threat is a
Belgian-style beer infused
with ginger and Sichuan
peppercorn), which ow
from most of the 15 taps.
SINGAPORE
Helping lead the revival of

the Jalan Besar district,
The 1925 Microbrewery
& Restaurant (the1925.
com.sg) is in an old
hardware shop repurposed
as a lively brewpub. Try the
juicy, citrus-forward Small
Monster IPA and silky
Manuka Stout, brewed with
honey and espresso. An
impressive range of mostly
British craft imports
rounds out the tap list. +
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F T H E 1 9 2 5 M I C R O B R E W E R Y & R E S TA U R A N T; C O U R T E S Y O F L I Q U I D L A U N D R Y K I T C H E N & B R E W ; C O U R T E S Y O F J O E S B R E W ; S H U T T E R P A N D A P H O T O G R A P H Y
Frothy pints at The 1925.
SPECIAL PROMOTION
CHRISTMAS IN BALI
Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, invites you to revel in
the season where electrifying cocktails, delectable
cuisine and an extraordinary setting amplify the days &
nights! Celebrate life, love and happiness with Discovery
Festive Season events with Christmas tree and
decorative lights while various dining venues are offering
special festive menus for a memorable experience.
New Years will be an extra special celebration as
683(59(*$6KDVEHHQGXEEHGDVWKHRIFLDOWKHPH
party of this year, where vibrant scene is set up with an
unparalleled line up that will electrify the night.
CHRISTMAS EVE BUFFET DINNER
(QMR\DQLQWHUQDWLRQDOEXIIHWRQ&KULVWPDV(YHOOHGZLWK
classic festive dishes, from roast carvings and fresh
seafood to live cooking stations and certainly a wide
range of delicious dessert. The Pond Restaurant; 7PM
onwards; Rp. 375.000++/person, inclusive of welcome
cocktails or mocktails
CHRISTMAS BRUNCH
On Christmas day, make your way to Tepan Noodle
Restaurant and join us for a veritable feast, showcasing
signature dishes from around the world. From freshly
baked Christmas breads, cakes & pies to extensive
selections of International dishes and roast turkey will
be available. We also have live music and Carol Singer
who will play festive classics. Tepan Noodle Restaurant;
from 11AM 3 PM; Rp. 180.000++/person
CHRISTMAS DAY DINNER
Or bring the beauty of Christmas to your dining table on
Christmas Day. Let yourself be pampered by the splendid
creations of our culinary team who have created a
VXPSWXRXVYHFRXUVHVHWPHQXIRU\RXDQG\RXUORYHG
ones to enjoy. La Cucina Restaurant; 7PM onwards; Rp.
425.000++/person, inclusive of Christmas Cocktails
SUPER VEGAS
Ring in the New Year as Discovery Kartika Plaza bids a
fond farewell to 2014 and welcomes in 2015 with a Bang!
Adapting from Super Heroes & Vegas show, this years
line up features entertainers that will visually astound
you and keep you on your feet dancing until the early
hours of the morning, promising to be unforgettable.
Guests will enjoy an all-you-can-eat exquisite buffet
GLQQHUZLWKIUHHRZRIEHHUKRXVHZLQH VRIWGULQN
while entertained by one of the many spectacular shows
on stage. Kharisma Ballroom; 7.30PM onwards; USD
200++/person
www.discoverykartikaplaza.com
+62 361 751067
BEACHFRONT AFICIONADO AT TEPAN

Heat up the night at Tepan Deck before making your way
to dinner. Or if you prefer cocktails to food, weve got
you covered. And for those who arent ready for the
night to end, make your way down to Tepan Deck where
our Resident DJ puts all his personality into spinning just
the right mix until the wee hours. Open all day 2AM
your travel dilemmas solved P H O N E S , T A B L E T S , C A M E R A S A N D M O R E : T + L S A N N UA L

T H E W O R L D S B E S T B U S I N E S S H O T E L S 104 T H I S M O N T H S T O P T R AV E L D E A L S 106
T R AV E L T E C H AWA R D S
99
P R O P S T Y L I S T: A R I A N A S A LV AT O
Trip Doctor
WAYS TO TRAVEL BETTER

Tips, tricks and road-tested advice from T+Ls Trip Doctor news team.
r e p o r t e d by l isa c h en g, n i k k i e kst ei n, a m y fa r l e y, k at i e ja m es, c h r is k uc way, b r oo k e p o r t e r k at z a n d to m sa m i l ja n.
p h otog r a p h e d by a n d r e w b. m y e rs
* Prices throughout are listed in US dollars.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
87
Trip Doctor
20 Ways to Travel Better
NO .
GET PAID FOR

A FLIGHT DELAY
NO .
MASTER THE
METER
NO .
UNDERSTAND
CODE SHARES
Think youre getting credit
for all your frequent-flier miles
by traveling on a partner
airline? Not necessarily. Each
partnership works differently:
some offer full mileage and
elite-qualifying credit for
tickets on other carriers;
others offer reduced (or even
zero) credit. And since some
regional loyalty programs
calculate miles based on
money spent (rather than
distance flown), you may even
bank more miles if you buy
directly from a partner airline.
Check the terms of each code
share with your preferred
carrier before booking.
Get from point A to point B with a

single tap of a smartphone screen.
Here, our five favorite regional
taxi-booking apps.
GRABTAXI
grabtaxi.com
SPLIT IT
split-it.sg
TAXIWISE
taxiwise.co
UBER
uber.com
DIDI DACHE
xiaojukeji.com
Locations: Indonesia,
Malaysia, Philippines
Singapore, Thailand and
Vietnam
Coolest Feature:
Driver ratings, so you
can book a driver who has
gotten good reviews
safety first.
free; Android,
BlackBerry10, iOS
Location: Singapore
Coolest Feature: Uses
Facebook and GPS to
help you locate people
nearby who are going
your way, so you
can share the cab
and split the fare.
free; Android, iOS
Location: Hong Kong

Coolest Feature: Lets
you reserve a taxi in
advance, rather than
just on the fly, with more
reliable scheduling
than most of the
other apps on the market.
free; Android, iOS
Locations: 45 countries,
including Singapore,
Thailand and Vietnam
Coolest Feature: The
app tracks the taxi ride,
so you can monitor your
route as you go or, if you
booked for a friend, you
can follow their progress.
free; Android, iOS,
Windows Phone
Location: China
Coolest Feature:
Integrated within the
WeChat (wechat.com)
social chatting
application, so WeChat
users can find, book and
pay for taxis within a
single platform.
free; Android, iOS,
Windows Phone
88
D E C E M B E R 2 014
L O G O S , F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F G R A B TA X I ; C O U R T E S Y O F S P L I T I T; C O U R T E S Y O F TA X I W I S E ; C O U R T E S Y O F U B E R ; C O U R T E S Y O F D I D I D A C H E .
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y Q U I C K H O N E Y
If time is money, then air travel

collectively owes us all. A few regional
carriers are tipping the scales (slightly)
back in the travelers favor. Tune
Insure AirAsia Travel Protection
(airasiainsure.com) roundtrip
international ight insurance costs $10
and can get you up to $480 in cash back
(the costs and payout vary by country)
if your ight suffers long delays. You
can rack up $60 per six-hour delay
period, and are eligible for a payout of
up to $160 if you miss your next
connecting ight. Theres also an up to
$160 payout if your luggage shows up
late, to offset your inconvenience.
Strict European Union regulations
mean that passengers departing from
any European airport (or ying a
European carrier into the union) are
eligible for compensation of up to $750
for a delayed, canceled or overbooked
ight. If you need assistance making a
claim, AirHelp (getairhelp.com) will go
after your money for you, minus a 25
percent commission.
WATCH YOUR SHOWS

ON THE GO
cost
Want to binge-watch the latest season of Game of

Thrones at cruising altitude or catch up on Downton
Abbey from your Bali bungalow? Here, a breakdown
of the best services to use, and when.
downl oa da b l e ?
NO .
GOOGLE
PLAY
DISH
ANYWHERE
SLINGBOX
$1.99$4.99
per episode
Free with a Dish

Network
subscription
$149 for the

Slingbox M1
(sling.com)
Yes
Yes
No
Globally
Globally
Globally
Purchasing while
traveling
internationally
must be done via
data roaming,
but you can
switch to Wi-Fi
once your
download begins.
Watch live TV,

movies and
premium content
on your DVR over
Wi-Fior
transfer
recordings to
your tablet to
watch offline.
Stream anything
that you could
watch on your TV
at home, from
sitcoms to
sports, anywhere
you can find
high-speed
Internet.
streaming?
COURTESY OF SLINGBOX
w h at t o
know
Escape to the peace and tranquility of

Kamandalu Ubud, a 5-star boutique
resort situated amid lush paddyelds
in the green hills of Ubud. From your
very own Balinese-inspired villa,
step out to enjoy the warm hospitality
of our staff and explore the natural
surroundings that lie just beyond.
HERITAGE OF SERENITY
Jalan Andong
Banjar Nagi
Ubud, Bali 80571
Indonesia
T +62 361 975 825
reservation@kamandaluresort.com
www.kamandaluresort.com
kamandalu
kamandalu
kamandaluresort
Trip Doctor
NO .
THE POWER STRIP

Cant find enough outlets? The candybar-size Outlets to Go Power Strip ($20,
monsterproducts.com) provides four
three-prong outlets with enough space to
allow for even the bulkiest plugs.
THE BATTERIES
If your power is running low, try the Nokia
DC-19 ($40, microsoftstore.com, pictured),
a compact battery pack that delivers one
of the fastest charges around. For
maximum power, try the Mojo Battstation
Optimus 20400 ($130, ibattz.com): it has
two USB ports and stores enough power
to fully charge your phone eight times.
THE RECHARGEABLE
PHONE CASE
The Mophie Space Pack ($250, mophie.
com, pictured) protects your iPhone from
drops, doubles battery life and adds up to
64GB of memory (for more photo, video
and music storage). We also like the
slimmer Jackery Leaf ($60, jackeryusa.
com), which offers an additional 110
hours of use time; its available for iPhone
onlyfor now.
GET THROUGH CUSTOMS FASTER

Avoiding peak times at Asias international airports has never been a bigger
concern, but there are ways to skip the queues. The most obvious is to sign up
for an APEC Business Travel Card (travel.apec.org), which is good in 19
countries around Asia Pacic, including China, Indonesia, Malaysia,
Singapore and Thailand among others. If you dont qualify for an APEC card,
its worth checking for private companies at individual destinations in
advance. Get into the Thailand fast-track lines, for instance, via Bangkok Fast
Track (bangkokfasttrack.com). Staff meet you at your gate, escort you through
immigration and customs, and help you avoid annoying touts, not to mention
delays of up to an hour. There are similar services in Jakarta, Manila, Kuala
Lumpur and Singapore, with costs averaging around $42 per person.
NO .
how to
earn
how to
spend
s tat u s
perks
bot tom
line
90
D E C E M B E R 2 014
EARN MORE
FOR HOTELS AND
AIRLINE TICKETS
Book a flight or room through

an online travel agency, and
youll get both miles from the
airline and perks and rewards
from the agencys own
program. Three to consider:
EXPEDIA
ORBITZ
CHEAPTICKETS
Get one point for every

$5 spent on flights; two
for every $1 spent
on hotels and cruises.
Cash back on every

purchase, in the form
of Orbucks. The return:
1 percent for flights, 3
percent for hotel bookings.
The site offers reward

credit for almost all
airfareas high as
$50but the amount
you get is up to chance.
Points can be applied

to flights, hotels and even
meals (e.g., 3,500 points =
$25 toward a room).
One Orbuck is worth one

dollar. You can apply your
balance to any purchase
made on the site.
CheapCash credits
can be applied
to hotel bookings
within 30 days.
Spend $5,000or book

seven room nightsto
attain silver status, which
comes with bonus
amenities (upgrades,
complimentary wine)
at 1,400 hotels.
Gold members (people who

book four room nights a
year) get perks such as
upgrades and free in-room
Wi-Fi at partner hotels.
None. This isnt your

typical loyalty program.
With a poor return on

points, Expedias
program is all about the
VIP hotel service.
Instant rewards make

this ultra-transparent
program very gratifying.
It makes sense when

you are planning to
book both airfare and
hotel through the site.
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF MONSTER; COURTESY OF MICROSOF T DEVICES; COURTESY OF MOPHIE
KEEP YOUR
BATTERY CHARGED
NO .
NO .
USE A DIGITAL ASSISTANT
If youre a Google user, its time to get on board with the apps built-in digital assistant, which puts Siri to
shame. More than just a smart voice search, the service scans your Gmail and Google Calendar for booking
details and appointments, learns your preferences via your browsing history, and monitors your daily habits
to deliver relevant updates (local weather, currency conversions) within the app. What youll get:
NO .
REALTIME
UPDATES
SCHEDULING
ASSISTANCE
REBOOKING
HELP
ITINERARY
MANAGEMENT
Get info about flights,

including delays and gate
changes, starting 24 hours
before departure.
Based on traffic and your

preferred mode of
transportation, itll tell
you when to leave for the
airport, a dinner
reservation, and meetings
and appointments.
If your flight is canceled,

Google provides a direct link
to Google Flight Search,
which displays alternative
flights.
A new feature launching

this month pulls up your
flight and hotel
confirmations, restaurant
bookings and more. Simply
say OK Google, show me
my trip.
STAY
CONNECTED
FOR FREE
Subscriptions to Wi-Fi hot-spot provider Boingo (boingo.com)

cost $59 a month for worldwide coverage. But if you have an
American Express Platinum Card, you can now get a free
subscription to all of Boingos land-based hot spots.
You can enroll at amex.boingo.com.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
91
Trip Doctor
10
NO .
GET FLEXIBLE WITH AIRFARE

Two of our favorite search tools, Adioso and Google Flight Search, enable creative
approaches to booking tickets. Below are five techniques we love.
THE OPENCALENDAR
STRATEGY
THE DESTINATION
AGNOSTIC SEARCH
THE PRICE
ALERT
THE FAREDROP
WATCH
THE LOYALIST
APPROACH
Specify where you

want to go and for how
long, and Googles
bar-graph-style calendars
will show you when fares
are lowest over a threemonth window.
Adioso lets you search
for flights nearly
a year into the future.
Both sites will look for

all flights under broad
search terms: you can
ask for tickets to
Japan, Europe
or even (on Adioso)
somewhere warm.
Adiosos alerts let

you combine multiple
open-ended search
parameters and
get e-mail notifications
for flights that, say,
leave on Fridays and
return three days later
in the next six months
and go anywhere
in Asia for less than
$400.
The DealsRadar, from

Adioso, collects price
drops on flights from
your area to a
customizable set of
destinations around the
world. Among our recent
finds: a $189 four-day
roundtrip fare from
Singapore to Darwin
(down 42 percent from
the average).
Google makes it easy

to search by entire
alliance group (Oneworld,
SkyTeam, Star Alliance)
from a drop-down
menu, helping
you maximize your
loyalty earnings.
DONT SETTLE
FOR THE
HOTEL GYM
If hitting the stationary bike just isnt enough, go to Gym Visit
(gymvisit.com) to search for gyms that offer day passes. This site lets
you compare the day rates of facilities near your hotel to nd the best
deals. Crosst (map.crosst.com) fans can check out the clubs online
directory of international locations, while yogis should download
Lululemons Om Finder (lululemon.com/apps) app to hunt down yoga
classes while on the road. If your hotel gym doesnt cut it and there
arent any viable options nearby, you can always just download the
Daily Work Out (dailyworkoutapps.com) for 30- to 40-minute exercise
routines that you can do from the comfort of your suite.
92
D E C E M B E R 2 014
12
NO .
RENT A CAR WITH STYLE

Sometimes, getting there
really can be half the fun.
Case in point: Pricelines new
and aptly named Fun Rides
collection, which gathers the
lowest prices for sleek
specialty cars, like convertible
Mercedes-Benz E350s,
Corvettes and Mini Coopers.
R O B W I L S O N 3 9/ D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y Q U I C K H O N E Y
11
NO .
13
NO .
REASONS FOR
DELAYED BAGS
5%
KNOW WHEN TO CARRY ON

Most travelers are aware that connecting
ights are the primary cause of
mishandled bags, accounting for 45 percent
of delays. Less well known: a smallerthough
not insignicantproportion of bags are
deliberately pulled because of weight
restrictions. This happens most frequently
at high altitudes and on hot days; when
the temperature rises, the air thins, making
it more difficult for planes to take off.
So carry your bag when the mercury
peaks in Bangkok.
transfer
mishandling
3%
8%
failure to load
ticket error/
bag switch/
security/other
8%
45%
loading error
airport/customs/
weather/spaceweight restriction
15%
tagging error
arrival
mishandling
16%
F I G U R E S F R O M T H E 2014 S I TA
B AG G AG E R E P O R T.
Trip Doctor
15
NO .
CARRY THE
RIGHT CARD
14
NO .
GET SOCIAL WITH YOUR HOTEL

Whats more valuable to hotels today:
a loyal customer or one with a loyal
social following? It may be the latter.
Case in point: the new Kimpton Karma
loyalty program rewards guests who
post seles at the pool or tweet to the
hotels customer service team, granting
them expedited access to the Inner
Circle. Once in, travelers get
complimentary nights and a $50
restaurant credit at new properties.
Marriott Rewards, meanwhile, is
16
NO .
94
D E C E M B E R 2 014
offering members up to 2,000 monthly

points for social updates. (Instagram
photos and Facebook likes are each
worth 25 points.) The new Hotelied app
(free; Android, iOS) accesses travelers
social networks and loyalty programs.
Participating hotels can use this
information to offer discounts to
targeted demographicsfor example,
35 percent off for New Yorkbased
techies. It is U.S.-only for now, but
international roll-out is slated for 2015.
PUT
YOUR
AIRFARE
ON HOLD
Popular with commuters

across Asias major
metropolises, smart card
payment systems like
Hong Kongs Octopus
(octopus.com.hk),
Bangkoks Rabbit
(rabbitcard.com/en) and
Singapores Ez-link (ezlink.
com.sg), not only speed
you through public transit,
but also offer special
discounts and loyalty
rewards at an everexpanding group of retail
outlets. An alternative to
carrying cash or paying
credit card transaction
fees, these cards are
available at local
transportation ticket
offices for minimal cost.
Want to book a flight but unsure of your travel dates? Some airlines let you secure a
seat without losing money if your plans changebut their terms vary. For example, if
you make a Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com) booking at one of their offices or
travel agents, you can hold the fare for up to two days before paying. Note that this
requires a face-to-face interaction; if you book online, your credit card will be billed
immediately. Some airlines make it easier, like Uniteds FareLock (from $6.99), which
lets you hold your itinerary either 72 hours or seven days before booking. Even some
budget carriers are showing flexibility: Thailands Nok Air (nokair.com) gives you 24
hours to fork over the fee, and payment can be made at a 7-Eleven or certain ATMs.
17
NO .
BOOK ON AN
INTERNATIONAL WEBSITE
It is a universally acknowledged truth that airfare
varies from minute to minute, website to website. But
did you know that there can be differences between
the rates you nd on various international versions
of the same site? This often happens when travel
companies are trying to gain market share in a new
country, explains Henry Harteveldt, a travel industry
analyst at Atmosphere Research Group. That means
you may nd a substantially different ticket price for
the same ight on Expedia.com and Expedia.co.jp,
the Japanese version. (Dont worry: its in English.)
You can nd similar discrepancies for internal
foreign ights on an international carriers own
website by changing your residence to the airlines
home country. One caveat: youll be booking in the
local currency, so try to use a credit card that doesnt
charge a foreign transaction fee. We tested the theory.
ROUNDTRIP
BANGKOK TO TOKYO
Expedia.com
348.67
$
$
303.18
s av i n g s
13%
Expedia.co.jp
ROUNDTRIP
KUALA LUMPUR TO TOKYO
Expedia.com
434.00
392.43
$
Expedia.co.jp
s av i n g s
10%
Trip Doctor
RENT A
CAMERA LENS
NO .
19
LOOK
SHARP
Theres nothing worse

than getting caught with
stained clothing on the
road, far away from a
trusted dry cleaner. Enter
travel-ready solutions
such as Tide to Go (tide.
com), a discreet spottreatment pen that
instantly lifts stains. The
airport-security-friendly
Sea to Summit Pocket
Laundry Wash
(seatosummit.com)
packets contain detergent
strips, great for washing
clothes in the sink. And
then theres Downy
Wrinkle Releaser Plus
(downywrinklereleaserplus.
com), a small spray that
removes creases from
any garmentan
unpacking essential.
96
D E C E M B E R 2 014
18
NO .
Attention, shutterbugs: theres no need to

pony up for that pricey super-zoom lens
when you can get just rent one at Phase
One (phaseone.com), which has outlets in
China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Singapore
and Thailand. If you are traveling to or
from the United States, check out
BorrowLenses.com, owned by Shutterfly,
which rents out lenses, camera bodies,
lighting kits, video equipment and even
underwater cases for beach getaways.
20
NO .
TALLY UP YOUR CRUISE

BILL IN ADVANCE
The base fare of a cruise is oen just a starting point
for what youll pay. Unless you go with an all-inclusive
luxury line, youll likely be charged for dining at
specialty restaurants, alcohol, gratuities and more. So
when comparing your options, keep in mind how costs
can add up. To give you a sense, we averaged the
per-person fare and additional expenses associated
with a seven-night voyage in the western
Mediterranean on three premium lines.
b a s e fa r e
$2,149
a i r fa r e (f r o m s i n g a p o r e )
$2,130
r o u n d -t r i p t r a n s f e r s
(f r o m a i r p o r t t o s h i p)
t h r e e s h o r e e xc u r s i o n s
$248
$91
g r at u i t i e s
s p e c i a lt y r e s ta u r a n t s
(f o u r v i s i t s)
$182
$400
alcohol
p o r t f e e s , ta x e s
and fuel charges
$120
t o ta l
$91
$5,411
SUBSCRIBE NOW
TO OUR DIGITAL EDITION
Available at www.zinio.com
1 year / 12 issues for US$29.99.
Trip Doctor
Strategies
T+Ls 2014
Travel Tech
Awards
1. Best E-Reader
Kindle Voyage
Glare-resistant, hi-res
and thinner than ever,
Amazons latest e-reader
means business. Among
our favorite features: a
translation tool to help you
conquer Don Quixote in
its native tongue and the
ability to turn pages
simply by squeezing the
device, thanks to haptic
feedback technology.
$199; amazon.com.
Every year, we road-test hundreds of gadgets to

determine which are the most deserving of
your precious carry-on space. These winners
made the gradenot just for their sleek
design but also for their impressive performance.
By Tom Samiljan. Photographed by Nigel Cox
2. Best Wearable
Moto 360
There is no perfect smart
watchyet. But for
Android users, Motorolas
take comes close. Its
swipe-motion interface
offers everything from
virtual boarding
passes to turn-by-turn
directions, helping you
get around without
looking like a tourist.
$250; motorola.com.
3. Best Headphones
Bose QuietComfort 25
The gold standard for
over-ear noise-canceling
has gotten an upgrade in
both performance and
design (custom colors!
Matching carrying case!
A fold-up frame!).
From $300; bose.com.
S E T S T Y L I S T: B R I A N P R I M E A U X
4. Best Travel Speaker

Soundmatters Dash7
Dont underestimate
this tiny powerhouse, which
uses a custom-engineered
set of 25-millimeter
twoofer speakers to
deliver high-fidelity tones
from a small-size body.
$199; soundmatters.com.
5
4
* Prices throughout are listed in US dollars.
5. Best Earbuds
MA750i
Even without active
noise-canceling, these
durable buds block out
most ambient noise.
What sets them apart?
Handmade drivers for
true-to-life sound and
memory-foam earpieces
that stay in place.
$130; rha-audio.com.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
99
Trip Doctor
Strategies
Tablets
1. Best for
Outdoor Use
Sony Xperia Z2
Available in jet black or
glossy white, this
sleek-yet-rugged tablet is
dustproof, sturdy and
water-resistant. Plus,
the 10-inch screens
viewing angle is wide
enough that your travel
companions can tune
in alongside you. From
$500; sony-asia.com.
2. Best for Families

Toshiba Encore Mini
Toshibas 7-inch tablet
goes big on entertainment,
with up to 144GB of
space for photos, music
and movies. With
full Windows 8.1, it also
supports Xbox Live
gamingperfect for
restless teens. $120;
toshiba-asia.com.
3. Best for
Movie-Watching
Samsung Galaxy Tab S
Samsungs 8.4-inch
tablet is ultralight and
slim, with a multi-window
work flow that lets you
use two apps at once.
The standard-setting
display uses advanced
technology to preserve
battery life while offering
a faster, sharper response
rateand remarkably
vivid color quality.
$400; samsung.com.
Best
Hybrid
Surface Pro 3
Microsoft has finally
nailed the tablet-laptop
hybrid. What you get:
a 12-inch touch screen
with a fully adjustable
kickstand, nine
hours of battery life,
and an accurate,
detachable keyboard.
$799; microsoft.com.
4
3
4. Best for
Long Hauls
Lenovo Yoga 10 HD+
Even on the most
cramped of tray tables
this 10-inch device is
comfortable to use, with
a retractable stand that
keeps the display at a
slight incline. Whats
more, the Yoga outlasts
nearly any flight, offering
18 hours of battery life.
$249; lenovo.com.
NOT YOUR AVERAGE CASE The ever-growing range of tablets on the market is matched only by the number of accessories to pair them with. This years best:
Logitechs FabricSkin Keyboard Folio, which acts as a full-size keyboard attachment, folio-style cloth case and dual-view stand for the iPad Air. $150; logitech.com.
100
D E C E M B E R 2 014
1. Best Bang
for Your Buck
Asus Eeebook X205
Our top pick in a new
wave of low-price
laptops, this 11-incher
just launched in the U.S.
and may soon make its
way to Asia. Weighing in
at barley 900 grams, it
cuts out excess bulk
without sacrificing
substance. It features a
chiclet-style keyboard, a
fast processor and
intuitive controlswith
12 hours of battery life
to boot. $179; asus.com.
Laptops
1
2. Best for Business

Travelers
Lenovo ThinkPad
X1 Carbon Ultrabook
This 14-inch modelthe
lightest in its classis all
about functionality, with
an anti-glare, smudgeresistant touch screen;
a spacious (and silent)
keyboard; and a durable
carbon-fiber casing that
withstands shocks, dust
and even the occasional
spilled coffee. $1,187;
lenovo.com.
3. Best for In-Flight
Entertainment
Samsung ATIV
Book 9 2014
An Ultrabook without the
heft, this 15.6-inch HD
touch screen is ideal for
watching movies. Unlike
its competitors, its only
1.3 centimeters thick,
leaving you with plenty of
extra carry-on space.
$1,499; samsung.com.
4. Best for
Connectivity
HP ChromeBook 14
Currently available for
purchase in Australia and
India, this 14-inch
Chrome OS netbook is
slim and lightweight, and
offers high-end hardware
for a fraction of the price.
The biggest draw for
travelers: a built-in
memory-card slot for
easy photo uploading
and instant sharing.
$300; store.hp.com.
WHY WE STILL LOVE THE MACBOOK AIR It may be over a year old, but the MacBook Air ($899; apple.com) continues
to be our favorite travel laptop. Its fast and slim, with a keyboard that cant be beat. Reports at press time were pointing to
an early 2015 release of a next-gen upgrademost likely with an ultra-hi-res Retina screen and an even thinner profile. In other
words, good news for travelers.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
101
Trip Doctor
Strategies
1. Best Zoom
Canon PowerShot
SX700 HS
Pocket-friendly and
ergonomic, Canons
high-performance
point-and-shoot
stands out for its
top-of-the-line 30x
optical zoom. The
Creative Shot mode
is like Instagram for
dummies: it offers
five color variations
and modifies the
crop on any frame
automatically. $300;
canon-asia.com.
Cameras
Best
Camcorder
2. Best Rugged
Olympus TG-3
This compact, 16mp
camera handles
underwater (up to 15
meters) and land
adventures alike, with
dedicated settings for
time-lapses and action
shots, as well as GPS
tagging. $350; asia.
olympus-imaging.com.
3. Best for Sharing
Nikon CoolPix
S810c
Snap, edit and upload
straight from the
3.7-inch screen of
the Wi-Fi-enabled
CoolPix, which comes
preloaded with full
Android software
for built-in social
sharing. Other draws:
a retractable 12x
optical-zoom lens, a
lightning-fast start-up
speed, and instant
cloud storage via the
app of your choice.
$350; nikon-asia.com.
4. Best All-Around
Sony a6000
If you havent yet
switched from a bulky
DSLR to a lightweight
mirrorless (MILC)
body, Sonys palm-size
model makes a
compelling case.
It takes stunningly
clear shots, with a big
24.3mp sensor,
sharp autofocus and
wide-ranging ISO.
$650; sony-asia.com.
102
D E C E M B E R 2 014
JVC Everio GZ-R70

This 1080p HD
camcorder has a
shockproof body; 40x
optical zoom;
high-quality mic, which
homes in on whatever is
in focus, even if its a
faraway sound;
and an f1.8 lens, which
enables well-balanced
low-light footage.
$500; jvc.net/asia.
Phones
1. Best All-Around
HTC One (M8)
With twin stereo
speakers, a user-friendly
interface and availability
in Android and Windows,
this phone is all about
high performance.
Its also one of the
best-lookingand most
ergonomicmodels on
the market. From $699;
htc.com.
2. Best for Video
Nokia Lumia 930
This Windows phone
delivers the most
powerful mobile camera
around, with hardware
that rivals some DSLRs.
Among the pro-quality
features: full 1080p
HD video capability; four
built-in microphones;
a 20mp sensor; and a
Carl Zeiss lens. From
$599; microsoft.com.
3. Best Display
LG G3
This 5.5-inch screen has
four times the resolution
of standard HD, going
big on clarity and color
richness without adding
any extra heft (it weighs
just 150 grams). Another
feature we love: the
cameras shutter
can be triggered simply
by saying cheese.
From $600; lg.com.
4. Best Design
Samsung Galaxy
Note Edge
Japan and South Korea
will be among the first
countries to welcome the
Edge and its innovative
Quad HD screen that
wraps around the edge of
the phone to display
personalized notifications
(time and weather; news
headlines) from a side
panel, ideal for easy
bedside viewing.
Price unavailable at press
time; samsung.com.
APPLES BIG MOMENT Upgrading to the iPhone 6 should be a no-brainer for travelers: it packs in longer battery life, up to 128GB of storage and an
improved camera. Why pick the supersized 6 Plus? Better low-light shooting capabilities and a killer video-stabilization feature that makes for jitter-free footage.
From $649; apple.com.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
103
Trip Doctor
Worlds Best
Vote for your favorite business

hotels and more in the 2015
Worlds Best Awards survey at
tlworldsbest.com/intl
T+ L S PECI A L
What are the top hotels for business travelers? Here are the winners,
as voted by T+L readers in our annual survey.
Four Seasons
Hotel Hong Kong.
The Peninsula
Shanghai.
Mandarin Oriental
Hong Kong.
Shangri-La
Bangkok.
TOP 5
barcelona
OVERALL
Hotel Arts 85.85

W Barcelona 80.00
Le Mridien 72.00
1. Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong

98.00
2. Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong 97.90
3. The Langham Chicago 97.65
4. (tie) Four Seasons Hotel Gresham
Palace Budapest 97.14
4. The Peninsula Chicago 97.14
beijing
TOP HOTELS BY CITY

INTERNATIONAL
bangkok
Shangri-La Hotel 95.56
The Peninsula 94.71
Mandarin Oriental 94.63
104
D E C E M B E R 2 014
JW Marriott Hotel 91.43

The Peninsula 88.89
Ritz-Carlton 86.25
cancn, mexico
Ritz-Carlton 92.00
Le Blanc Spa Resort 86.25
JW Marriott Cancn Resort & Spa
84.35
hong kong
Four Seasons Hotel 98.00
Mandarin Oriental 97.90
The Peninsula 95.76
london
The Connaught 94.44
Stafford London 93.75
Four Seasons Hotel London at

Park Lane 92.38
Park Hyatt 89.60

Sydney Harbour Marriott 88.57
paris
toronto
Le Bristol 92.22
Htel Le Meurice 90.67
Four Seasons Hotel George V 90.53
rome
Hotel Hassler Roma 89.00
St. Regis 88.97
Westin Excelsior 87.78
shanghai
The Peninsula 95.00
Westin Bund Center 88.75
singapore
Conrad Centennial 86.25
Raffles 84.76
sydney
Shangri-La Hotel 92.63
Great Value (US$250 or less)
Ritz-Carlton 92.73
Park Hyatt Toronto Yorkville 86.43
vancouver
Fairmont Pacific Rim 87.00
Fairmont Waterfront 86.67
This list is based on results from

the 2014 Worlds Best Awards
survey. All of the included cities
had at least three hotels place
within the top 500. For more on the
Worlds Best methodology, visit
tandl.me/wbmtd14.
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106
D E C E M B E R 2 014
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108
D E C E M B E R 2 014
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December
2014
Features
CEDRIC ARNOLD
112
122
132
144
Sydney
Bandung
Burma
Great Group
Getaways
Artist Arin
Sunaryo in his
Bandung studio,
page 122.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
111
DIVING
INTO
SYDNEY
In Australias food-mad metropolis, Gary Shteyngart finds

no end of restaurants and bars, epic breakfasts
and late-into-the-night dinnersand much more, including
vast swimming pools, and, of course, marsupials.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY PETRINA TINSLAY
Oysters served with

champagne mignonette
at Bondi Icebergs, a swim
club and restaurant.
Opposite: The clubs
saltwater pool.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
113
I ARRIVE IN
SYDNEY WITH
THREE VERY
IMPORTANT
ITEMS ON
MY AGENDA:
Eat some of the best breakfasts in the world, swim like a

saltwater end in the citys gorgeous outdoor pools and
hug a wombat. That furry, bewhiskered marsupialthird
ddle to the koala and the kangaroohas been on my
to-hug list since I was a kid riing through the W volume
of the encyclopedia.
Thirty hours after taking off from JFK, I stumble
into the Sydney sunshine, not sure if Ive gained a day or
lost a day, given the 16-hour time difference. In a sense,
Ive lost eight years, as this outrageously expensive city
seems, at least supercially, to have avoided the global
nancial crisis that has ravaged the rest of the Englishspeaking world. Im also here to read at the Sydney
Writers Festival, which, for those who still like to read
books, is possibly the classiest and best-attended of
its kind. (I end up doing panels with both Amy Tan and
Irvine Welsh, just to give you an idea of its breadth.)
My hotel is practically beneath the quaint Art Deco
Featherdale Wildlife Park, in Doonside, outside Sydney. Opposite, from left: Specialty coffee
at Single Origin Roasters, in Surry Hills; Izakaya Fujiyamas swordfish-belly sushi.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
115
Clockwise from top left: Bulletin Place, a downtown bar; Bondi Icebergs Campari cocktail with blood-orange soda; charred sweetbreads,
asado ribs, and crisp-fried brussels sprouts with lentils and mint at Porteo, in Surry Hills; local food writers
Pat Nourse and Myffy Rigby inside Bentley, a restaurant downtown; matchboxes from Porteo; stopping for photographs
on the walk from Bondi Beach to Clovelly Beach; ricotta hotcakes, a breakfast special at Bills, in Darlinghurst.
116
D E C E M B E R 2 014
monster that is the Sydney Harbour Bridge and a brief

jaunt from the Sydney Opera House, about which more later.
I walk over to the festivals headquarters and ask if they
can help me nd a wombat. My previous telephone calls to
the various zoos and wildlife refuges around Sydney have
produced no leads. There are liability issues because
wombats apparently have very sharp claws and are illdisposed toward visiting American writers. The crack
staff at the festival promise to do their best.
And so its time for breakfast, or brekkie, which
contemporary Sydneysiders eat in fascinating quantities.
I cab over to a restaurant called Bills on happy, hilly
Liverpool Street in Darlinghurst, the hipster Victorianterrace-covered suburb just east of the Central Business
District, or CBD. (The weird down-under nomenclature
refers to normal urban neighborhoods as suburbs.) The
rst restaurant of international food god Bill Granger, Bills
is a blond-wood paradise where moms with Kato buggies
and content providers with MacBook Airs cluster around
a communal table covered with magazines like Sturgeon
sample article: I Like Dachshunds, You Like Chickens.
But its the lighter-than-oxygen, honeycomb-buttered
ricotta hotcakes, with a banana playing the supporting lead,
that blow my jet-lagged mind. I slurp a delicious at white,
the regions contribution to the latte family, as people
around me talk brightly in the difficult Australian language.
I am able to understand one discussion, two young men
of working age planning the day ahead of them. Keep in
mind that its 10 a.m. on a Monday. Im going to the beach
after this, one says to the other. What are you doing?
I think Im going back to sleep, his tousled-hair friend says.
God, in my next life, please make me a Sydneysider.
reakfast here is an obsession, but coffee-drinking

borders on the hysterical. Sydney folk are convinced
that at this point in the development of our
civilization, Sydney has the worlds best coffee. Single
Origin Roasters, in the even-cooler-than-Darlinghurst
suburb of Surry Hills, just south of downtown, takes things
to truly Portlandia levels. Coffee can be prepared with such
abstruse methods as the Syphon, which uses water
pressure and a vacuum in some mysterious way and was
pioneered in Berlin in the 1830s and then favored by
Toulouse-Lautrec during his coffee binges at the Moulin
Rouge. But the Syphon machinery is out of whack today,
and Im directed to a pour over of a Kenyan blend. Itll
take ten minutes, my adorably intense coffee professional
tells me, her eyes gleaming with caffeinated vigor beneath
her glam-nerd glasses. While I chew on banana bread with
espresso butter, I study the veritable Talmud of coffee that
serves as the menu. A pour overproduces a cup of extreme
clarity and roundness of body. And nally it arrives, its
nutty, sour taste depositing me on the banks of Kenyas
Kambuku River from whence it came; its texture is that of
weak tea. Such a clean way of drinking it, my coffee
professional nods approvingly.
Now that Im full of jittery resolve, I wander north to

the pretty Botanic Gardens, where one sign celebrates
OUR CONVICT HERITAGE and another NATIONAL SORRY DAY, the
day non-native Australians apologize to their Aboriginal
predecessors for stealing their children during the 19th
and 20th centuries and trying to turn them into white
Australians. Every country, I think, should probably
have a Sorry Day.
The gardens empty out onto the visage of the Sydney
Opera House. Im not one for guided tours, but a building
with this much lan and iconic power deserves a ramble
if only to marvel at the otherworldly concrete ribs that
hold it together. The impressive main hall can be rented
out for a mere A$8,000; Miley Cyrus, it must be said,
will be playing it soon.
And now its time to take a quick cab ride to the eastern
suburb of Bondi for my rst swim of the day. Thats the
beauty of this town: one can go from Miley Cyrus to Bondi
Beach in 20 minutes. Sydney is deep into the antipodean
autumn when I visit, winter is beckoning, but the air is a
ridiculous 22 degrees and the water temperature in the high
teens. This means but one thing: the Bondi Icebergs. Jutting
out into the Tasman Sea, the famous Icebergs swim club
offers a year-round chance to dip into a true ocean pool, the
temperature slightly colder than the actual water temps
because of the pools concrete construction. The rst
freezing lap is deadly, the second feels like Ive just drunk
three cups of Kenyan pour over, the 10th is exhilarating,
and by the 20th I dont want to leave. When I surface, I
glimpse the innite stretch of sea just a stones throw beyond
the pool. Kayakers brave the fearsome surf in the distance,
while all around me kids squeal in their wet suits as
fat-insulated older men do their best polar bear impressions,
scampering into the pool as if diving off an ice oe.
After my laps, skin tingling with salt water and raw
energy, I bound up the stairs leading from the pool to
the spare and trendy seafront bar, where I slurp on some
rock oysters, chow down on a basket of polenta chips
with sour cream, and have a Campari drink lit up with
sparkling blood-orange soda.
Desperate to keep the oceanfront magic going, I decide to
do the two-hour coastal walk from Bondi to Clovelly Beach,
hugging the eastern shore of suburban Sydney. Maniacal
joggers and terriers, as well as beautiful tanned
octogenarians, compete for the narrow space alongside
oyster-shell-smooth rock formations. Below, children play
in tidal pools, adept as seals.
The next day I get an exciting e-mail from the Writers
Festival folk: my wombat is ready for hugging. I am driven
50 minutes westward to the Featherdale Wildlife Park,
where a lovely young park worker named Kellie introduces
me to Bumble, a two-year-old wombat whose sweet, wiry
fur is coarse to the touch, and whose expression is one of
deep marsupial tranquillity. Actually, shes just coming out
of a nap. Her claws are already formidable and there are the
red beginnings of a pouch. I hold on to the 13 kilos of love
that make up Bumble, and she looks back at me, her soft,
plushy nose wiggling along with her thick white whiskers.
After I bounce around with a dusty kangaroo, Im taken
around to visit Kane the koala. This individual, who looks
rather like a dazed exiled Russian intellectual, gets 18 to
20 hours of sleep per day and is visibly unhappy when I try
to give him a back rub. Koalas are the punk rock stars of
the animal world, stoned most of the day on eucalyptus oil
and rife with chlamydia. Given that theyre asleep most of
the day, I say to my driver, how do koalas even have sex?
Very slowly, I imagine, he says.
That, I believe, is an example of Australian wit.
n no time at all, Ive knocked off the three items on my

bucket list: saltwater swimming, wombat cuddles and
some grand, over-caffeinated breakfasts. Now Im ready
for something a lot more seriousdinner. Recently
Melbourne has been stealing most of the thunder on the
dining scene with restaurants such as Attica and Cumulus,
but Sydney is no koala when it comes to dining, its fast
awake and working hard.
Id written to Pat Nourse, one of Australias preeminent
food writers, and he suggested we do a bit of a food-anddrink crawl though Sydney. What I dont quite realize
he meant is that we will crawl through eight restaurants
and bars in one night. I meet the handsomely bald and
pinstripe-suited Pat at our rst stop, Bentley, in the CBD.
The restaurant is a wonderfully open and dramatic room
done up by the irrepressible Melbourne designer Pascale
Gomes-McNabb with a kind of oating space-age pick-upsticks dcor, perfect for Sir Ridley Scott, who is munching
away at a table when we enter.
Hes the best sommelier in the country, Pat says of
Bentleys Nick Hildebrandt, who immediately sets us up
with a glass of 2013 Jauma Blewitt Springs Sand on Schist, a
South Australian take on Chenin Blanc that tastes more like
antipodean spring than the autumn gathering strength
outside. We chase the wine with potato crisps covered in
I GOT A CHANCE TO HEAR AN

OBNOXIOUS MATING CALL. ARE WE
ON A DATE? HE ASKS. HOW MANY
CHILDREN DO YOU WANT?
beef and sage, and amaebi prawns from Western Australias
deep waters. By the way, when Pat describes someone as
Australias best sommelier, I would listen to him. This is the
kind of critic who complained of one restaurateur: His
plating is so 2008.
Our next indulgence is steak at the Rockpool Bar & Grill,
just a few blocks away. Australia has had twenty-two years
of unbridled economic growth, Pat says as we enter the
soaring interior of what used to be the Art Deco lobby of an
Sundown at the
Sydney Opera House.
insurance company, and this is the result. According to

Pat, theres a guy at the Australian Financial Review who
writes a whole column about whos eating with whom at this
bankers paradise. We order a spicy minute steak at the bar.
This is full-blood Wagyu, not the McDonalds kind, the
bartender informs us of the steaks august lineage. Hes right
to be boastful. The perfectly seared beef will make you want
to apply for Australian citizenship the next day.
With the sun now fully extinguished, we leave Sydneys
CBDa kind of Toronto skyline plunked down by the
gorgeous harborand head back into the dining paradise of
sometimes-posh, sometimes-sketchy Surry Hills. Whats a
good snack after a steak? Fish ngers, anyone? The ones at
Bodega, the rst brainchild of chefs and best buddies Ben
Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowiczwhose name I will have to
appropriate for a future novelfeature pieces of toast upon
which oat a complement of cold wonders: yellowtail
ceviche, diced cuttlesh, onion, and shavings of mojama,
or salt-cured tuna. This is what sh ngers have struggled
to be all along, if only wed have let them.
Pats girlfriend, Myffy Rigby, whos the chief food and
drink critic for the local edition of Time Out, shows up
wearing a oral dress and a fashion-forward red head-scarf.
She insists on the steamed-milk-bun sliders, which hold a
nice fat barbecued tongue topped with crabmeat and salsa
golf, the vibrant Argentinean mayo. Its an impressive choice.
Our next Surry Hills stop is a wine bar named 121 BC,
after an ancient vintage mentioned by Pliny the Elder. In
Jungle Beach.
aUga
darkly
joyous, Felliniesque room with a long red wooden
table and one wall taken up entirely with wines, 121 BC is a

wine geeks heaven. The geek-in-charge is Giorgio de Maria,
an adorable Piedmontese whose next task is to set up shop in
Hong Kong, or Honkers, as the locals call it. Almost every
successful Australian I meet jets up to Beijing or Shanghai
or Honkers on a regular basis. Indeed, selling
its mineral wealth to China is how this country has kept
ahead of most of the rest of the world, despite the fact that
the population of Australia is the size of a Chinese city
youve never heard of, as one furniture designer tells me.
We are now only halfway though our food-and-booze
crawl, and I dont want the night to end. Our fth stop is
Izakaya Fujiyama, a few blocks away. Everything in Surry
Hills feels just a few blocks away, as if the neighborhood
were one big gastrointestinal block party. We pour in for
a sashimi nightcap at the cavernous Fujiyama just as theyre
closing up. The master of ceremonies, Kenji from Hokkaido,
does an amazing swordsh belly or a smoked bonito in soy
sauce on a sweet-potato shell with popcorn. Yes, popcorn!
Take that, every other izakaya in the world!
We walk up a few streets to Porteo, the latest venture
from Milgate and Abrahanowicz. Its hard not to love this
retro-styled Argentinean mega-restaurant, with its large
outdoor tables and a parrilla thats always smoking. Open
for only four years, its already a part of the global Meatand-Malbec industrial complex, thanks to dishes like the
gorgeously charred sweetbreads and the famed asado ribs.
I return to Porteo a few days after my rst visit, just to
sit beneath a kitsch poster of Juan and Eva Pern, nose
D E C E M B E R 2 014
119
buried in a glass of thick red, marveling at the house-made

chimichurri and the crispy fried brussels sprouts with lentils
and mint. Grilled meats be damned, the best dish at Porteo
is arguably this intense, nutty-tasting creation.
But for now we cab over to our seventh stop, a bar called
Bulletin Place, back in the CBD. Ten drinks into the evening,
things are getting a bit hazy, but if my shaky notes are
correct, Bulletin Place is a cool, living-room-size, Berlinquality bar that can be found behind an unmarked alleyway
door and up a ight of stairs. Fruit rules the roost here;
my Spiced Bird magically crams in Pampero rum, pineapple,
ginger, Campari and lime. The staff is composed of a duo
of wonder boys, but I also got a chance to hear the obnoxious
mating call of the head of information technology for a
major Australian investment bank as he hits on Myffy. Are
we on a date? he asks, leaning into her with his red-veined
beak. How many children do you want? May I taste your
drink? And then he says something so unprintable that
Im suddenly reminded were in Tony Abbotts Australia,
he being the dunderheaded prime minister who, during my
visit, manages to wink when a pensioner tells him she has
to work on a phone-sex line to make ends meet.
There is an eighth stop on this food crawl, as promised,
a visit to the quasi-secret back room of a famed
subterranean beer and pizza joint called Frankies, but Id be
lying if I told you I remembered anything that happened
there. Apparently, at one point Myffy addressed my person
with the exclamation I want to pour a beer on you! but
she later conrmed that she meant it in a positive way.
aerial assault of deep-fried capers. As I ingest the air-dried

meat of the marsupials shinbone, I feel mildly conicted:
just yesterday I was playing with a roo, and now Im eating
one. So it goes in swinging Sydney, where you always eat
the one you love.
In the midst of all this feasting, I manage to get back
into the water. Walking north across the Sydney Harbour
Bridge, with the Opera House at my back, brings me right
to the North Sydney Olympic Pool. What strikes me most
about this almost-80-year-old Art Deco wonder is its
democratic nature. On this breezy early evening, it seems
that everyone is here, young show-offs in their budgie
smugglersthe tight-tting Speedo-like swimwear
unabashedly worn by Tony Abbott in the fashion crime of
recent yearsgrandmas in retro one-pieces, middle-aged
perma-tanned Sydneysiders who look like theyve been
carved out of a single thick piece of red hardwood.
I do a mellow breaststroke for the better part of an hour,
rewarded with a view of the pylons of the Harbour Bridge
every time I surface. Sydney offers unpretentious good
living, marsupials warm to the touch and sweet to the taste,
and, yes, possibly the most advanced coffee in the world.
I hereby resolve to do like the locals. I will wake up and
gorge on my monster brekkie by the ungodly hour of eight
in the morning. Life this good simply cannot wait. +
STAY
Four Seasons Hotel Overlooks
Sydney Harbour. 199 George St.,
CBD; fourseasons.com; doubles
from A$395.
InterContinental Historic hotel
near the Sydney Opera House.
177 Macquarie St., CBD;
intercontinental.com; doubles
from A$378.
Park Hyatt A complete overhaul
in 2012 updated this 155room property. 7 Hickson Rd.,
The Rocks; parkhyatt.com;
doubles from A$930.
he next day I feel like Ive eaten just about everything

Sydney has to offer, but theres more. At the ethereal
Quay, located smack in the middle of the harbor on
the top oor of the Overseas Passenger Terminal, I
take my time ingesting an untidy dish of baby octopus
and shrimp soaked in some rich XO sauce and topped
ingeniously with dried Spanish ham. An iconic greenand-yellow Sydney ferry named Friendship passes directly
underneath, while the millions of tiles that make up the
sails of the Opera House glisten in the near distance. Can
anything match the view? Yes, a dessert called the snow
egg that frankly shouldnt be eaten, because nothing in
the rest of your life will ever measure up to it. Suffice it
to say it looks like something out of the snowy portion of
HBOs Game of Thrones and it tastes like a brain-freezing,
heartwarming explosion of strawberry, guava granita
and custard-apple ice cream.
Dinnertime nds me at Ester, a muscular, arched space
of concrete, wood and brick in the ever-happening suburb of
Chippendale, right next to the riches of Surry Hills.
Continuing with the XO themetheres China and its
inuence againI eat a very primal dish of bone marrow in
XO; the sh sauce, marrow, and butter forming a heavenly
mess of heat and spice, the whole thing looking like a detail
in a Brueghel painting. Then theres a kangaroo tartare
in fried-egg sauce, a dish that benets mightily from an
120
D E C E M B E R 2 014
T L Guide
Sydney
EAT
Bentley 27 OConnell St.,
CBD; thebentley.com.au; dinner
for two A$120.
Bills 433 Liverpool St.,
Darlinghurst; bills.com.au; dinner
for two A$70.
Bodega 216 Commonwealth St.,
Surry Hills; bodegatapas.com;
Bulletin Place Level 1, 10-14
Bulletin Place, CBD; bulletin
place.com.
Ester 46-52 Meagher Court,
Chippendale; ester-restaurant.
com.au; dinner for two A$75.

Frankies Pizza 50 Hunter
St., CBD; frankiespizzabythe
slice.com; dinner for two A$15.
Izakaya Fujiyama Shop G09,
38-52 Waterloo St., Surry Hills;
izakayafujiyama.com; dinner for
two A$80.
121 BC 4/50 Holt St., Surry Hills;
121bc.com.au; drinks for two
A$35.
Porteo 358 Cleveland St.,
Surry Hills; porteno.com.au; dinner
for two A$160.
Quay Upper Level, Overseas
Passenger Terminal, 5 Hickson
Rd., The Rocks; quay.com.au;
Rockpool Bar & Grill 66 Hunter
St., CBD; rockpool.com; dinner for
two A$140.
Single Origin Roasters
60-64 Reservoir St., Surry Hills;
singleoriginroasters.com.au.
DO
Bondi Icebergs 1 Notts Ave.,
Bondi Beach; icebergs.com.au.
Featherdale Wildlife Park
217-229 Kildare Rd., Doonside;
featherdale.com.au.
ARTISTS ALONE, TOGETHER

Bandung is a conundrum
of a cultural capital:
mesmerizing yet modest,
bursting with artistic
talent that hasnt quite
coalesced. JEFF CHU attempts
to toot the Indonesian
hill stations horn.
122
D E C E M B E R 2 014
P HO T O GR A P HE D BY C E DR IC A R NOL D
Clockwise from
top left: School
girls queue outside
the Museum of the
Asian-African
Conference; Scrap,
by Arin Sunaryo;
Jalan Braga, one of
Bandungs oldest
promenades; Jalan
Serang and its
mosque; Wiki Koffie;
green chili rice at
Kopi Selasar
Sunaryo; at Selasar
Sunaryo gallery
space, Interlokusi
Lagak #3 and #2,
by Maharani
Mancanagara; Arin
Sunaryo at his
studio.
more beguiling. As I slowly discovered Bandungs

facetsthere are manyI realized that an
important part of its magic is that this
iconoclastic city is still discovering what it wants
to become.
One mans ash is Arin Sunaryos treasure.

Steer past the driveway of his studio, in the hills ringing Bandung, and
you might think its a construction site. Dozens of 25-kilogram bags of
ne volcanic ashfrom Mount Merapis 2010 eruptionare piled
higgledy-piggledy, waiting to be added to the resin with which Arin
creates his art. In the painting context, he says, its new material.
Yet its not. The ash is actually a very old thing in a new form. When
Merapi exploded 440 kilometers away, magmamolten rock and gas
that had bubbled under the earths surface since who knows when
spewed skyward, solidifying into ash. Arin mixes this dust, this
apparent waste product, with pigmented resin. Then he climbs a ladder
and hurls his self-made paint at his work surface in layer upon layer,
until its at least 2.5 centimeters thick. The splash itself reminds me of
the explosion, he says. Its never the same. The resin surprises me.
The works sell for upwards of US$8,000 and reside in New Yorks
Guggenheim and Tokyos Mori Museum. Harder than a Formica
countertopyou can wipe it! Arin saysthey look like something
Jackson Pollock might have done if hed had restraint. He takes scraps
of waste resin and aggregates them into exuberant sculptures that look
like rainbows exploded into shards and then clumped together. But he
resists reading the spellbinding swirls and shapes. This is about the
materials, about the medium, he insists, in his soft-spoken but
stubbornly artist way. When I say some of the paintings resemble still
lifes of giant mutant orchids, he just smiles. You see what you want to.
So it is with Bandung. This burgeoning city of 2.5 million people has
layer upon rich layer of history, culture and creativity. In colonial
times, the Dutch lled the center with one of Asias nest collections of
Indo-European and Art Deco architecture. Bandungs universities are
some of Indonesias best. Its artists garner global acclaim. Its designers
concocted some of the countrys most famous brands, including
clothing- and housewares-focused UNKL347 and T-shirt specialist
Ouval Research.
But Indonesias third-largest city remains oddly introverted.
Though Jakartans throng here each weekend to shop, its otherwise off
the tourist trail. It seems constitutionally incapable of pushing itself on
anyone. If Jakarta has capital-city swagger and Yogyakarta artsy selfassurance, Bandung is the modest metropolis. But that makes it all the
124
D E C E M B E R 2 014
T HIS IS A N ISL A ND CULT URE, says Febie

Babyrose, a member of the acclaimed artist
collective Tromarama, as we sit at Warung Inul,
an open-air Sundanese eatery. The cheery
proprietress, wearing a bright blue hijab, brings
dish after dish to our picnic table: fried sh,
snakefruit, anchovy cooked in banana leaves,
stir-fried wild mushrooms, nasi cikur (rice
redolent with garlic, red onion and galangal),
fresh tofu. Tromaramas work has traveled
worldwide, to exhibits across Asia and Europe.
But sometimes in an island culture, Febie
continues, people are frightened by the things
that come from outside.
Often, fears fade over time, only to be replaced
by new ones. Several years ago, Febie and her
Tromarama collaborators, Herbert Hans and
Ruddy Hatumena, created Silent Dialectica, an
installation featuring mechanisms harvested
from maneki neko, the lucky Japanese cat
gurines with beckoning paws. It included an
audience-participation element asking viewers to
write down their fears. Predictably, people cited
poor health and bad people. One of the most
memorable writings that stuck in our head, Febie
says, was the impermanence of life.
Change, of course, is inevitableand whats
fascinating about the sense of stranger danger is
that Bandung owes its prominence to outsiders. It
was a relatively small town when the Dutch East
Indies Company began lling the surrounding
Bandung Central
Mosque. Opposite
from top: Members
of the Tromarama
artist collective:
Febie Babyrose,
Ruddy Hatumena and
Herbert Hans;
Sunaryo Soetono,
the artist behind the
art space Selasar
Sunaryo, in his
soon-to-open
sculpture garden.
hills with tea and coffee plantations. The cool

climate offered respite from steamy Jakarta
then called Batavia140 kilometers away. A
century ago, when boutiques lled with European
imports and sidewalk cafs hosting the colonial
beau monde lined Bandungs streets, the city was
dubbed Parijs van Javathe Paris of Java. The
Dutch liked Bandung so much that, in the 1920s,
they decided to make it the capital of the East
Indies. But the plans never came to fruition,
halted by World War II and then Indonesian
independence in 1945.
The past seems omnipresent in todays
Bandung. It survives in stories, such as those
about a resident ghost that several locals
recounted to me. In one version of the tale, during
World War II, the Japanese killed a Dutch nurse in
a building that now houses Bandungs Public
School No. 5. She supposedly still haunts the
place. Everyone seems to know someone who has
seen Nancy.
Indonesias conicted relationship with
colonial-era ghosts is reected in the dilapidation
of many Dutch-era buildings. Unlike Penang and
to a lesser degree Macau, which have renovated
and restored to touristic glory, Bandung has
largely abandoned its architectural gems, some of
which survive only in nostalgia-tinted images.
When I visit Tromaramas studio, Herbert Hans
sits at his Mac and retrieves images of Ons Aller
Belang. The 2012 piece is 30 Delft-style porcelain
plates encircling the projection of a stop-motion
WHO SHOULDNT THINK ABOUT HOW WE

LIVE, AND HOW WE LIVE TOGETHER?
animation of the images they created for those plates. Superimposed on
a picture of Ons Aller Belang, a long-gone building that housed a
soldiers union, are 30 photos of modern trafficcars, mopeds, street
lifetaken at the spot where the building once stood. The installation
is Tromaramas way of commenting on what is and what was. There
are so many buildings from the Dutch that were demolished for
progress, Febie says. Her words are particularly poignant since Ons
Aller Belang is the Dutch for our common interest.
Its bad, agrees typeface designer Gumpita Rahayu, who takes me
for a walking tour of Bandungs aging architecture one afternoon. The
old structures inspire his typefaces. The Swarha Islamic Building, once
an elegant hotel, would suit a post-apocalyptic movie set; peering into
the abandoned upper oors, I half-expect a zombie to pop out and say
hello. This is our heritage, says Gumpita, whose Swarha Neue font has
lines echoing those of the Art Deco edice. I wanted to improve the
value of this building with the typeface.
The Driekleur building, whose Art Deco balconies would feel at
home in Miami Beach, endowed Gumpitas Driekleur typeface with its
curvaceous Z, B and K. The Warenhuis de Vries, an old warehouse
restored as offices for the OCBC Bank, inspired

the font family Oud Warenhuis (literally, old
warehouse). The Dutch who colonized
Indonesia left something for us, Gumpita says.
Why dont we take this heritage and do
something with it?
MOS T B A NDUNG A R T IS T S A ND DE SIGNER S,

including Tromaramas members and Gumpita,
owe their careers indirectly to the Dutch. All
studied at the Bandung Institute of Technology
(ITB), one of Indonesias premier universities.
Alums include two former Indonesian presidents,
numerous politicians and tycoons, and one Miss
IndonesiaMaria Selena, class of 2013.
The school has its roots in a colonial
institution, the Technische Hoogeschool te
Bandoeng, founded in 1920 to train engineers to
build roads andvery Dutchcanals. But its key
infrastructural impact today may be cultural. It
birthed artistic and design thinking thats unique
to Bandung, and distinct from that of Yogyakarta,
Indonesias other, better-known contemporaryart center. While traditional Javanese culture
infuses Yogyakartas arts, Bandung historically
has drawn heavily on ideas imported from
Europe, especially formalism.
Every artist I meet also describes Bandung as
introverted. In Yogyakarta, artists gather
frequently for openings, symposia, parties. Not in
Bandung. Even the geographic distribution of
Bandungs galleries reinforces the diffusion
theyre scattered among tile-roofed bungalows
From above left:

and concrete-block houses in the hills, making it
Typeface designer
impossible to walk among them.
Gumpita Rahayu and
I dont see a lot of structure in the art
the inspiration for his
Swarha Neue font;
community here, says Aviandari Lestari,
rice paddies still dot
director of the Platform3 art space. The closest
Bandung. Opposite
thing to a Bandung arts district might be the
from top: Members
cluster of studios and galleries on the road leading of the Kandura
ceramics collective;
to Selasar Sunaryo, eight kilometers northeast of
the Sheratons pool.
central Bandung. Selasar, as its known, was
opened in 1998 by Sunaryo Soetono, one of
Indonesias most renowned artists and father of painter Arin Sunaryo.
Its elegantly austere gray concrete-and-glass buildings provide a hardedged contrast to the softness of the surrounding trees. It has won wide
respect for highlighting both famous artists and rising talents.
Sunaryo Soetono, 72, has dabbled in everything from sculpture to
textiles. Hes now building a sculpture garden down the roadand one
afternoon, his son took me for a sneak peek around the unnished plot,
which has lovely views over a valley. When it opens next May, it will
house some of Sunaryos massive sculptures, and stones and boulders
he has collected from across Java. This is a legacy project, Arin says.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
127
A studio shared by father and son is a few

Clockwise from
right: Wiyoga
minutes walk downhill, near the workspace of
Muhardanto,
the ceramics collective Kandura. And this seems
installation artist
to be as close as the arts community gets. Is this an and co-founder of
unwitting communal expression of characteristic Platform 3; Bandung
Institute of
Dutch reserve? I asked my dad about it once,
Technology.
Arin says. He said it was always like this.
Bandung used to be a place for the Dutch to rest. So maybe theres just
some kind of vibration that makes the people like this.
Perhaps, though, the problem is not Bandungs artistic
introversion but the travelers expectation. Have we become overly
accustomed to gallery districts like New Yorks Chelsea or Londons
Shoreditch? Why should a city be arranged for a visitors convenience?
One day, as the sun begins to sink, I wander the tightly packed areas
between Bandungs train station and its historic core. Occasionally, a
bright faadesky blue, cotton-candy pinkviolates the concreteblock monotony. Four little girls bat around a half-deated red balloon,
laughing delightedly as they try to hit the uttering paper ags that
crisscross above. Around the corner, three boys, maybe six or seven
years old, play soccerone wears the all-black top and trousers of the
Sundanese pangsi, an outt usually seen in the countryside, paired
with gray and pink Crocs. Spotting my camera, they shriek happily, and
as I walk down their narrow playing eld, they followhiding behind
gnarly tree trunks, then popping out to yell, Hello!
Then and there, I realize: maybe Bandungs beauty is that its not a
mainstream destination. It isnt trying to be anything but a place where
people live and work and playin other words, its

already a community.
SOME B A NDUNG CRE AT I V E S are prodding the

public to reexamine its conception of the
communal. The installation I saw at Platform3
was Ada Perlu Sebentar, by Wiyoga Muhardanto,
who co-founded the gallery. The name means,
roughly, Can you hold? Wiyoga put in rows of
plastic waiting-room chairs, inviting people to sit.
But the chairs perch atop detritusa Yakult
bottle, for instancecast in resin, leaving the
seating off-kilter. On opening night, Wiyoga hired
guards to create a second component of the piece,
by asking people to park their mopeds inside, on
the gallery oor, adjacent to the seating. Some of
the audience did not want to park inside, he says.
They wanted to be able to get out rst. They were
thinking of their own convenience.
The indoor parking and wonky chairs
disoriented the audience. People asked, Wheres
the exhibition? Whats the art? Aviandari says.
And then we just let them be confused. Wiyogas
point was to tweak viewers thoughtless
experience of public space. Especially in the
social-media era, everyone feels they are
important, he says. Im critiquing all of us. I
want to challenge the idea of you being any more
important than the others.
An impish provocateur, Wiyoga has spent
much of his career critiquing consumer
sentiment. Ease seems to make him uneasy.
Several years ago, inspired by his mothers Louis
Vuitton handbags, he created a cast-resin AK-47
covered with the Vuitton logo. He has an
especially prickly view of the shoppers who crowd
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D E C E M B E R 2 014
Bandung on weekends, seeking bargains in its

many fashion outlets.
Wiyogas point is well takenwho among us
shouldnt think more about how we live, and how
we live together? Its no bad thing that he and
other Bandung creatives are pushing their city to
consider the communal, not for outsiders but for
themselves. House the House, a multidisciplinary
design studio, has created public events with two
goals: rst, to highlight Bandungs eclectic
heritage, and second, to reclaim the streets. In a
third-world city like this, we tend to utilize
private cars too much, says House the House
principal Sakti Nuzan. Its bad for all of us. He
tells me this as we drive around in his Honda.
House the House has pioneered cuisinecentric festivals in Bandung. One series, called
Keuken (Dutch for kitchen), launched in 2011
and has drawn thousands, with food trucks and
culinary demonstrations. The studio also runs
Braga Culinary Night, which on its debut last year
drew dozens of vendors and 25,000 people to
Bandungs most historic thoroughfare, where
youll still nd Dutch-inspired restaurants and
bakeries. (Warning: most of Bandungs Dutch
pastries are to Parisian patisserie as the sewagetinged Cikapundung River is to the Seine.) These
events have been so successful that Braga
Culinary Night has since become regular, and the
studio is teaching community leaders to conduct
mini-Keukens in their own neighborhoods.
The administration of Ridwan Kamil, an
architect and ITB alumnus elected mayor of
Bandung last year, has encouraged efforts like
Keuken. Ridwan, an iconoclast who made his
family homes faade out of Red Bull cans, has
emphasized spatial redesign. He has created a
series of themed parks, including onemuch
ridiculed but also much useddesignated for
single people to meet one another, and one for
skateboarders. All of them have free Wi-Fi.
Bandung is young, Sakti says. Its dynamic.
Its quite small. The prospects are very nice for
small businesses and creative enterprises. The
most fundamental thing that needs work is the
infrastructure. But if we want to, we can partner
with anyone and everyone. He cites the support
his events have received from the government.
The spirit, he says, is moving fast.
Perhaps the best metaphor for Bandung is a
massive work-in-progressbigger than a queensize bedthat lls the center of Arin Sunaryos
studio. As we survey it, Sunaryo says something
about his ash-turned-art that applies equally to
his hometown: It has a narrative. It has a
historywhere it came from. It talks about
identity. It talks about Indonesia. And its not
done talking yet. +
130
D E C E M B E R 2 014
Indonesia
L AMPUNG
JAVA SEA
JAK ARTA
BANDUNG
YOGYAK ARTA
50 K M
INDIAN OCEAN
T L Guide
Getting there
Bandungs Husein Sastranegara
International Airport has nonstop
ights from Kuala Lumpur via
AirAsia (airasia.com) and from
Singapore via AirAsia and SilkAir
(silkair.com). From Jakarta, its a
three-hour driverent a car from
Avis (avis.com; two-day rental from
Rp1,187,000)or train journey
(fares from Rp175,000).
STAY
Hyatt Regency Bandung Mountainviews in the middle of town, adjacent
to Bandung Indah Plaza shopping area.
51 Jln. Sumatera; 62-22/421-1234;
bandung.regency.hyatt.com; doubles
from Rp983,967.
Sheraton Bandung Hotel & Towers
A hillside resort-like property outside
the city center. 390 Jln. Ir. H. Juanda;
62-22/250-0303; sheratonbandung.
com; doubles from Rp1,480,000.
Sayana Bed & Breakfast An airy,
centrally located bungalow is home to
this pristine, design-centric
guesthouse. 14 Jln. Buton; 62-22/
423-8958; sayanabnb.blogspot.com;
doubles from Rp300,000.
EAT+DRINK
Rijsttafel Resto Dutch-Indonesian
cuisine. Jalan Pasirkaliki; 62-22/6018573; dinner and drinks for two
Rp130,000.
Braga Permai Formerly Maison
Bogerijen, this Jalan Braga institution
has occupied the same spot since
1923 and hearkens back to colonial
Bandung. 58 Jln. Braga; bragapermai.
com; 62-22/4233-7788; ice cream for
two Rp40,000.
Hummingbird Eatery Stylish spot for
breakfast and lunch near some of the

citys most popular shopping. 14 Jln.
Progo; 62-22/421-2582; lunch for two
Rp80,000.
The Kiosk Pasar Dago Sundanese
and other Indonesian food in a clean,
comfortable, upscale setting. 48 Jln.
Insinyur Haji Djuanda; 62-22/4265123; the-kiosk-bandung.blogspot.
com; dinner for two Rp70,000.
Sumber Hidangan Historic Dutch
bakery formerly called Het Snoephuis.
20-22 Jln. Braga; 62-22/423-6638;
bread for two Rp20,000.
Wiki Koe Caf popular with young
Bandung. 90 Jln. Braga; 62-838/
2223-3402; coee for two Rp18,000.
VISIT
Selasar Sunaryo Art space. 100 Bukit
Pakar Timur; 62-22/250-7939;
selasarsunaryo.com; free.
Platform3 40 Jln. Cigadung Raya
Tengah (Belakang/Studio Rosid);
infoplatform3.wordpress.com; free.
Museum of the Asian-African
Conference Commemorating the
landmark post-colonial summit of
1955, this museum is housed in a
historic Art Deco building. 65 Jln. Asia
Afrika; 62-22/423-3564; asianafrican
museum.org; free.
SHOP
Aroma Coee This historic roastery
has been selling local coee beans
since 1930. 51 Jln. Banceuy; 6222/423-0473; ground coee from
Rp5,000 per 28 grams.
UNKL347 Flagship store of this
Bandung-based clothing, housewares
and lifestyle brand. 4 Jln. Trunojoyo;
62-22/420-0515; unkl347.com.
Ouval Research Cool typefaceinspired T-shirts and accessories. 64
Jln. Buah Batuh; 62-22/2730-6697;
rschtruetype.com.
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A fisherman on Inle
Lake, in central Burma.
this is
burmas
moment
ITS A NATION ON THE CUSP OF GREAT

CHANGE, AND THERES NEVER BEEN A
BETTER TIME TO GO THAN RIGHT NOW.
BY AND REW SOLOMON
PH OTOG RAP HED BY F R DR I C LAGR AN GE
D E C E M B E R 2 014
133
ou might not want to go to

Burma yet. You might want to
wait until the country
becomes a full-edged
democracy, possibly led by
Daw Aung San Suu Kyi,
winner of the Nobel Peace Prize and icon of righteous
courage. You might want to wait until the Muslim problem
settles down, and until the armed conict with minority
groups is resolved. You might hold out for utopia, as lots of
Burmas citizens appear to be doing. You might sit tight until
the political prisoners have received their reparations,
censorship is truly of the past, and the sometime junta has
written itself out of existence. You might want to wait until
it becomes what it is now becoming.
You might, however, be well advised to go right now. Go
before the place internationalizes and loses the look of old
Asia that has been preserved by its harshly imposed
self-isolation. Go before irreligiosity strips Burma of its
mystical Buddhist purity. Go before the people in remote
villages grow accustomed to tourists and lose their curiosity
about you, before people switch to global ways of dressing
and thinking. Go before they x the English on the menus
and signs. Go before the place gets wealthy and ugly, because
if one can generalize from the little pockets of prosperity
there, economic miracles are not going to make for an
attractive sight. Go before everyone else goes.
I had anticipated a time of hope in Burma. In the few
years prior to my visit, political prisoners had been released,
censorship of the media had been eased, parliamentary
elections had taken place, and international sanctions had
been lifted. Foreign investment was beginning to invigorate
the economy. Suu Kyi, freed from about two decades of
house arrest in 2010, was engaged in a campaign aimed at the
presidency. The country seemed to be barreling toward both
wealth and democracy. But what I found was an extremely
cautious neutrality. The exuberance of transition tempered
by the Buddhist philosophy of a people who had seen too
many rays of hope extinguished. The population had been
optimistic, perhaps, in the lead-up to independence in 1948;
they had been optimistic again in 1988, when student
uprisings promised a new justice; they had even had a streak
of optimism during the Saffron Revolution of 2007, when
thousands of monks rose up against the government only to
be brutally crushed. By 2014, they had eliminated such
buoyancy from their repertoire of attitudes and were merely
waiting to see what might happen next.
134
D E C E M B E R 2 014
That did not make it an unwelcoming place to visitin

fact, quite the opposite. Besides being a land of spectacular
landscapes and buildings, Burma boasts a erce, proud and
kind population who will go to almost any lengths to make
you feel welcome. Sammy Samuels, a Burmese Jew who
owns a travel agency called Myanmar Shalom, said that
people had had absurdly high expectations that with
reform, foreign investment would pour in, new airports
would be built, and everyone would become wealthy. Many
were disappointed to realize how sluggish development is;
the Burmese call the Internet the internaynay being the
Burmese word for slowand Internet penetration is only
about 1 percent. But there were still incontrovertible
changes. Two, three years ago, every time I come back from
the United States, I am so scared at the airport even though I
have nothing on me, Sammy said. The immigration officer
starts asking, What were you doing there? Now, theyve
start saying, Welcome back. Its a happier place.
Author and presidential advisor Thant Myint-U,
chairman of the Yangon Heritage Trust, said, For the
bottom fty percent in terms of income, daily life is not
much better at all.
But the country was based on fear, and now the fear has
been taken out of the equation, and people are discovering
how to debate or discuss their own fates.
Golden stupas (or pagodas: the terms are interchangeable)
glitter in the sun wherever you go in Burma. In the shadow
of these towers, peasants labor in rough conditions. One
local drily remarked to me that the country is rich, but the
people are poor. For many, life seems to have gone on largely
unchanged for the past 2,500 years: peasants, oxcarts, the
same kinds of food and clothes. The same glittering pagodas,
covered in gold in the richer towns, and merely painted in
the poor ones. Nothing ever happens when it should; its
amazing that the sun sets on schedule. My voyage among
these contradictions and inefficiencies was impeccably
curated, partly thanks to my charming guide Aung Kyaw
Myint, with whom my friends and I spent our time learning
history, geography, culinary arts and cultural uency.
e began our trip in Rangoon, the

heart of the country. Its
Shwedagon Pagoda is among the
holiest sites in the land, and
people come from near and far to
worship at it. The central stupa is
covered in goldnot gold leaf, but thick plates of solid gold
and there are receptacles full of jewels near its apex. The
Burmese maintain that the pagoda is worth more than the
Bank of England. Incongruous amid the modernizing city, it
feels momentous and transcendent, a sort of St. Peters
Basilica of Theravada Buddhism.
Burmas cuisine is largely unknown outside the country.
The national dish, lahpet, is a salad of fermented tea leaves
mixed with chiles, sesame oil, fried garlic, dried shrimp,
peanuts and ginger. In Rangoon, we ate at the local favorite
Feel, which serves excellent noodles; at Monsoon, the chic
Clockwise from top left: Colonial-era buildings in Rangoon; a pair of monks in Bagan; narrow waterways surrounding Inle Lake.
136
D E C E M B E R 2 014
Mornings in burma often find

bewitching mists hovering in the
valleys and around the hills.
we sat to watch the sun rise over the pagodas
Myohaung, a former imperial capital.
The Golden Rock, a Buddhist pilgrimage site northeast of Rangoon.
favorite of the international crowd, which offers delicious

Burmese and Pan-Asian food; and at Padonma, which is a
splendid, traditional operation out near the Belmond
Governors Residence hotel. The historic colonial center of
the city, which Thant Myint-Us group is trying to preserve,
has the majestic sweep of the Raj.
After a few days in Rangoon, we headed northwest to
Rakhine state, center of anti-Muslim prejudice in Burma
and locus of some of the countrys greatest sights. We ew to
Akyab, capital of the state, a depressing place with an
extremely colorful sh market.
to get this kind of experience at amusement parks: going

dizzyingly fast up and down and around tight switchbacks.
The place was mobbed with pilgrims, Buddhist monks
and nuns, and more. Street foods and the ingredients for
traditional medicines were being hawked everywhere:
porcupine quills; a goats leg soaked in sesame oil; bunches
of dried herbs. Many people were sleeping on bamboo mats
or in makeshift tents. Thousands upon thousands of candles
ickered, the hum of chanting was ubiquitous, and the air
was heavy with incense. Young couples come not only out of
piety, but also for the chance to interact in the anonymity of
the crowd, and younger boys and girls in groups pay respect
arly the next morning, we boarded a boat
to the Buddha and have a raucous good time; we saw and
for the ve-hour ride to Myohaung, an
heard them singing Burmese pop songs. Flashing, Chineseimperial capital from the 15th to the 18th
sourced LED displays were draped over the buildings, even
century. In Burma, take as many boats as
the animist shrines and holy outbuildings. If I were to say
you can. The life of the country unfolds
that it made Grand Central Station at rush hour look like a
on the rivers, and they make for smoother meditation retreat, Id be underselling the anarchic chaos.
journeys than the badly paved roads. Everyday scenes
Yet for all of that, it felt peaceable; one sensed a layer of holy
appear as picturesquely as in genre paintings, the breeze is
calm just beneath the wildness.
delightful, and there is always another pagoda ahead. If you
The Golden Rock itself is an extraordinary sight: a
are staying at the Princess Resort in Myohaung, you will get
boulder, nearly round, six meters in diameter, balanced on
to embark in one of its old wooden bargesand the food on
the edge of the mountain as if on the verge of plummeting.
board is delicious.
Legend holds that three hairs of the Buddha keep it on its
The Princess is not opulent by
precarious perch. The entire rock is
international standards, but its
covered in gold leaf, which devoted
charming campus of pretty little
pilgrims keep adding, so in some
cottages around a pool of lotus
places, the gold is 2.5 centimeters
owers is overseen by the nicest
thick and stands out in lumps. Atop
possible staff. After visiting a few
the rock, far out of reach, is the
pagodas and other Buddhist sites,
Kyaiktiyo Pagoda. The gold orb
which is a high expression of
we returned to the hotel for a dinner
the countrys Theravadan ideals glows at sunrise, in afternoon light,
that included a delectable salad of
at sunset, in the oodlit nighttime.
banana owers. The next morning,
When the light changes, the effect
the hotel manager woke us at 4:45 for a drive through the
shifts subtly, but it is never less than awe-inspiring. We
eerily darkened byways of the impoverished town to the foot climbed under it, stood beside it; from every vantage, one
of a small mountain with steps carved into it. We went up
feels the fragility of its odd balance, the drama of its massive
and found at the summit that hotel staff had come even
heft, and the tranquillity that holy places can have. It has
earlier to arrange our breakfast, and we sat there to watch
the grandeur of a re, a rushing river, a mountaintop
the sun rise over the pagodas. Mornings in Burma often nd panorama. We descended the mountain by pasha-worthy
bewitching mists hovering in the valleys and around the hills, sedan chairs, surveying the surrounding jungle in a
delineating what is small and close and what is large and far; semi-recumbent posture.
though temples and monuments may look similar in size
There are 500,000 monks and 150,000 nuns in Burma
upon rst glance, the blurring of their edges bespeaks the
which is to say that nearly 1 percent of the country is in
distance. I called our Myohaung sunrise Pagodas in the Mist. orders. Most boys spend at least some time as monks before
We had Rakhine breakfast at the hotel, which is sh soup returning to their families. As a visitor, you pick up a bit of
with rice noodles and a lot of spices and condiments, then
Buddhism as you go along. To wit, there are six types of
sailed upriver to visit Chin villages. The Burmese king used
religious structure: the pagoda or stupa (or zedi), a solid
to take beautiful women for his harem; to protect
structure with no interior that often contains a relic; the
themselves, according to legend, the Chin began tattooing
temple, a hollow square building in and out; the cave, which
their faces with lines like spiderwebs, a custom that
serves as a meditation center for monks; the ordination hall;
continued long after the threat had abated.
the monastery, which is a residence for monks; and the
We headed south the next day, driving from Rangoon,
library, where the scriptures of the Buddha are kept. We
stopping at various pagodas and other sacred sites before
visited examples of all. Most of the images of Buddha are
reaching the Golden Rock. At the base of the mountain on
made of a base of brick, or occasionally limestone, with a
which it sits, we boarded one of the ascension trucks. As
covering of plaster and lacquer. The standard policy is to x
we drove, I kept reminding myself that people actually pay
the plaster and lacquer as they fade or chip, which results in
There was not much

optimism in Burma,
but there was also
very little pessimism,
D E C E M B E R 2 014
139
From left: Fresh-caught fish from Inle Lake; a local girl on a dock at the lake.
statues that look like they have been reupholstered; no

elegant patina of age comes to settle on them. The
restoration of the 11th-century reclining image of Buddha at
Thaton looked as if it had been fashioned by a pastry chef.
The small city of Hpa-An lies on a at plain interrupted
by limestone hills so abrupt that they resemble furniture
delivered by an incompetent moving company and left to be
positioned later on. The south of the country is less
developed (which is saying something) and the roads are
pretty bad. We stopped at various holy caves, in which
ornament has been carved from and applied to the rock
itself and dozens of large lacquered Buddhas stand guard.
We took a boat, another gorgeous river trip, to Moulmein; the
cities of the region have some charm, but the high points
were the countrysides wooden pagodas and caves.
We headed up north of Rangoon, to Mandalay, the last
royal capital of the country. The city is more beautiful as a
romantic idea than as an actual place, but it was there that
we boarded the Road to Mandalay, a oating bit of Western
luxury owned by Belmond. It plies the stretch from
Mandalay to Bagan, stopping one night in Mandalay, sailing
for a day down the Irrawaddy River to Bagan, and then
staying a night at anchor in Bagan. Its cabins are elegant, the
food is divine, and the crew are so coddling that youre
140
D E C E M B E R 2 014
surprised that they dont tie your shoes. The top deck is a
teak platform with straw chairs and a small swimming pool
and bar; there is enough space so that you can have privacy
even when many other passengers are up there. Our second
night on the boat, we were invited up on deck for a special
treat: six little boats, hidden upstream, set aoat 1,500 tiny
banana-wood rafts, each with a candle burning inside a
colored-paper shade, and we watched as the current carried
them down the water. It was almost unimaginably poetic.
Bagan was the capital from the ninth to the 13th century.
In this period, it became fashionable to build pagodas and
temples, and noblemen competed to construct grander and
more splendid ones; poorer people built more modest
structures. The detritus of that spiritual one-upmanship is a
42-square-kilometer plain festooned with 4,446 religious
monuments. Its impossible to understand through
photographs, because its power lies in its sweep. We walked
among the pagodas; we drove among them; we climbed one
of the temples to watch the sun set; we surveyed the whole
gloriously littered landscape from a hot-air balloon. Even in
person, its hard to compass the scale of Bagans Plain of
Temples. Its bigger than Manhattan, more than eight times
the size of the gardens of Versailles. Some buildings were
badly restored by the junta, others are dilapidated but still
coherent, many are in ruins. Whichever you are looking at,

you see a thousand more over its shoulder. If one feels
exalted by the Golden Rock, one is humbled by Bagan, by the
glory that was and the splendor that is.
We ended our trip at Inle Lake, in central Burma: a
shallow lake where the locals have lived for eons by shing.
They stand up in their boats and paddle with one leg to keep
their hands free for their nets. Its a spectacular sight: they
stand erect and move with astonishing grace in a serpentine
full-body undulation. You go by boat to visit the lakes many
shrines. Local weavers produce cloth from the bers of lotus
stems; I brought some home and had a summer jacket made
from it, and later learned that one of the Loro Piana
cashmere billionaires had done the same thing after his
visit. There are numerous pagodas, of course, and
picturesque villages, and an abandoned temple complex,
now overgrown. There is a famous oating market, which is
rather touristy, and some others along the shore that are less
so. The Princess Resort there is as lovely as the one in
Myohaung, and its creator, the French-trained Burmese
hotelier Yin Myo Su, has also constructed the Inthar
Heritage Housea building of perfect traditional style that
houses a breeding operation for Burmese cats and a
restaurant where we had our best meal of the trip.
But on the lakes eastern shore is a gash in the landscape,
the site of a construction project that will triple the number
of hotel rooms at Inle Lake. There is no way that the lakes
fragile infrastructure can support such a deluge of tourists.
The lake itself is silting up from unsustainable farming
practices, and the narrow waterways around it are already
crowded. The beauty of the lakeindeed the beauty of
Burmais in considerable part a consequence of its longterm inaccessibility. It is on its way to becoming so
accessible that there may soon be nothing to access.
People I met shook their heads over such development,
but they had made their peace with tougher things. I was
surprised at rst by the fact that the country is not in a time
of tremendous optimismbut I was astonished in the end by
the pervasive equanimity that seemed to exist among even
those with little hope of personal betterment. There was not
so much optimism in Burma, but there was also very little
pessimism, which is perhaps a high expression of the
countrys Theravadan ideals. Between my explorations of
Burmas landscape and monuments, I interviewed a dozen
former political prisoners there. Many of them spoke of
being grateful for their experiences. In prison, they said,
they had had time to develop their minds and hearts, often
through meditation. They had in most instances set out
knowingly to do things that would result in their
imprisonment, and they had marched into their cells with
their heads held high. When they were released, their heads
were still held high. The writer and activist Ma Thanegi told
me that the best way to oppose the regime was to be happy in
prison. If they could be happy there, then their punishment
had failed, and the regime had no power over them. As she
explained it, their adamantine cheer was both a discipline
and a choice. +
142
D E C E M B E R 2 014
Shan noodle salad at Inthar Heritage House, at Inle Lake.
T L Guide
Burma
I N DI A
CHINA
M A N DA L AY
BAGA N
M YOH AU N G
I N LE L A K E
THAILAND
GOLDE N
ROC K
R A N GOON
MOU L M E I N
BAY OF BE N GA L
240 K M
Need to Know
Obtain a visa prior to departure
through the Burmese embassy
in your country of residence. If
you plan to fly in to the airports
in Rangoon, Mandalay or Nay
Pyi Taw, you can also use the
new eVisa option, which is
available for US$50 on the
governments website (evisa.
moip.gov.mm) and takes five
working days to process.
STAY
The Strand 92 Strand Rd.,
Rangoon; 95-1/243-377;
hotelthestrand.com; doubles from
US$424.
Belmond Governors
Residence 35 Taw Win Rd.,
Rangoon; 95-1/229-860;
belmond.com; doubles from
US$488.
Blue Bird Hotel C101 Myatlay
St., Bagan; 95-6/165-440;
bluebirdhotelbagan.com; doubles
from US$152.
Hill Resort Hotel 9 Kwin 416B
10th St., Mandalay; 95-2/35638; mandalayhillresorthotel.
com; doubles from US$240.
Inle Princess Magyizin Village,
Inle Lake; 95-81/209-055;
inleprincessresort.net; doubles
from US$225.
ALIST AGENT
Rebecca Mazzaro Having
traveled extensively through
Burma, Mazzaro has
relationships with managers at
the countrys top hotels. She can
set up hot-air balloon rides in
Bagan, guided hikes around Inle
Lake and biking trips through the
Shan state. Asia Transpacific
Journeys, Boulder, Colorado;
rebecca@asiatranspacific.com.
Our exclusive Digital Destination Guide

covering the latest and
the best of Penang and Langkawi
FREE download available at

www.travelandleisuresea.com/penanglangkawi
Great Group
Our favorite places to escape from it all, all together.
F R O M F A R L E F T: I A N L L O Y D N E U B A U E R ; R I C H A R D M C L E I S H ; C R A I G L O V E L L / C O R B I S
Challenge your pals to an

ATV race in Koh Samui.
Left: Bask in the soulful
sunsets while sailing the
Whitsundays. Right: Admire
mama-baby bonding between
orangutans in Sarawak.
Getaways
D E C E M B E R 2 014
145
THE ULTIMATE HOUSE PARTY

thailand.
By Jeninne L ee- St . John

Photog raph ed by Rich ard Mclei sh
What makes a great group trip? This
season, when we traditionally gather
family and friends to celebrate whats
really important, seems an opportune
moment to pose the question. But the
answers are, of course, timeless: they
involve good food, low stress and lots
of laughs. A common cause coupled
with the freedom to oat along in the
collective adventure at your own pace.
Reasons to reminisce. No, the best of
pals dont need an excuse to get
together, but its always nice to go on
tour with the band.
At the most basic level, a great
group trip involves a cushy home base,
somewhere to cocoon, a place youre
more than happy to return even after
thrilling outings you wished would
never end. Thats what I realized on a
recent visit to Koh Samui. Six of us
took over a brand new, kitted-out,
24-hour-staffed, seaview villa at
Panacea Retreat, and, fanning out the
rst night across the enormous
property, we had no idea of the
manifold group bonding activities in
store for us. Let me put it this way:
languid breakfasting, sala barbecuing
and private dance-partying were just
the relatively standard indulgences in
which we partook that long weekend.
We rolled in from the airport at
night, and entered a softly illuminated
grand salon. It seemed like a homey
reception area until someone pointed
out the full kitchen. Wait, this was
actually home. Our home. The top half,
anyway. Below awaited the garden and
the 25-meter pool boasting an in-water
bar and an above-water cheeky iron
sculpture by Bill Bensley (who also did
all the landscaping), not to mention
four horizon-view bedrooms.
And thank goodness for that, for
the morning brought all manner of
purple hazeeggplants and violets
and magentas detonating from the
east. More revelations followed: in the
main house was a tennis court, a muay
Thai ring, a red-velvet movie theater, a
billiards-and-cards room, and a
146
D E C E M B E R 2 014
karaoke lounge ostentatiously

dominated by a giant sh tank. If the
recreation you desire isnt already onsite, arrangements shall be made. We,
for example, ordered up yoga lessons
and in-room massages.
We felt like carving up the waves, so
activities director Sunny Matklang
reserved some Jet Skis and delivered
us to the bay. He didnt have the power
to deliver us from the torrential sheets
of rain into which we rather thickheadedly drove way out in the middle
of the oceanbut Koh Phangan
looked so close We also felt like
hooting and hollering and getting
muddy, so Sunny booked us a quad
bike expedition. Rivers were forded,
clothing was mucked, gravity was
deed. We felt, as anyone would after
such effervescent group activity, like
retiring in solitude then reconvening
for relaxing drinks and dinner. So our
agreeable, mellow staff asked the
chefs for delicious, deceptively simple,
fortifying, multi-course, wine-paired
meals that they served at our leisure,
leaving us free to insta-reminisce
about how awesome everything had
been and was in the process of being.
See, the major point the Panacea
crew understands is that a true
vacation with friends means not
having to look after your friends. It
means running around with them,
expending all the energy you can
muster and then collapsing on each
other in a big love heap. Sounds great,
right? Read on for ve more equally
bond-eric venues.
Bangkok Airways (bangkokair.com)
ies into Koh Samui from Hong Kong,
Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok
and other Thai cities. Panacea: 6677/430-074; panacea-retreats.com;
residences from US$1,900 per night for
up to eight people, with three-night
minimum, including breakfast, minibar, transfers, laundry, babysitting,
and one massage and yoga or cooking
class per person per day.
Jet Skiing is more fun en

masse. Clockwise from
below: Mango with sticky rice
completes lunch at Panacea;
muay Thai lessons in the
on-site ring; Panaceas pools
overlook the Gulf of Thailand.
Seventy-four sun-kissed
islands, thousands of whales
and up to eight favorite
friends... Whats not to love?
CATAMARAN CRUISE
australia.
Stor y an d photo by Ian Lloyd Neubau er

Australias best sailing takes place in
three very different destinations: the
windswept, deep-south island-state
of Tasmania; the spectacular,
mansion-lined Sydney Harbour; and
the Whitsunday archipelago, a group
of 74 sun-kissed islands fringing the
Great Barrier Reef. The last is a
perfect combination of remote and
accessible. You catch a two-hour
ight from Sydney and within an
hour youre out here, on the water, all
on your own, says skipper Luke
Butchers, casting his eyes over a
maze of ice-blue seas and tall green
islands edged by belts of sand.
My partner, two friends and I
start our trip on Hamilton Island,
home to Great Barrier Reef Airport.
Super yachts that rent for A$10,000 a
day and sleek Sydney 38s, the weapon
of choice at The Americas Cup before
hydrofoil sailboats came of age, bob
on the water, competing for attention
like starlets at Cannes.
Our home for the next few days is
humble in comparison, but rock star
by normal standards: a 13-meter airconditioned catamaran with four
en-suite cabins, a kitchen, two dining
areas and a forward cockpit. We are
excited to move in and spread out.
The vessel was designed for the
Sunsail charter company, which in
the Whitsundays rents 10 different
catamarans and monohulls manned
by skippers like Butchers who can
handle the boat solo but happily will
teach you to sail. Groups with one
competent sailor can rent a yacht
sans-skipperwhich these guys call
bareboating. No boating license is
required, but you need to have sailed
a similar vessel for ve days in the
past two years, and attend a brieng

about the boat, anchorages, park
regulations and hazards.
One of those hazards is whales.
Right. From May to September,
thousands of southern humpback
whales migrate from Antarctica to
the Whitsundays to feed, mate and
calve. Not two hours after departing
the marina, we come across a female
humpback nursing her calf in a
placid blue bay. What strikes us most
is their perfect stillness. They are
either oblivious to our presence or
know we mean them no harm. As
noted in 100 Magic Miles of the Great
Barrier Reef, the how-to book on
sailing the Whitsundays, skippers
must keep 300 meters from whales.
But humpbacks are inquisitive and,
not having read 100 Magic Miles,
sometimes will come over to you.
Extended sightings of whales like
this are rare, and it energizes our
group. We remain mute, gazing in
wonder at the display of human-like
maternal bonding until Butchers
breaks the silence. I had a whale go
right under my boat while we were
sailing. The guests asked me what we
should do and I shrugged. Theres
nothing in the handbook about what
to do in case a whale surfaces with us
on its back, he says. Err... Luckily it
resurfaced somewhere else.
That night, after a soulful sunset
sail sweetened by champagne, we
moor our cat at Hayman Island,
where we have dinner reservations
at Amici, the Italian at the sublime
new One&Only resort. The stop is
part of a new Sail & Dine experience
offered by Sunsail, long-practiced by
yachters in places like Greece and
Croatia, but here with an Aussie

avor. Were meant to restaurant-hop
to feast on native produce and wines;
I order a wood-red pizza with spicy
sausage and Tasmanian truffles.
The dinner is delectable, but the
next nights beats it yet. In the
lagoon-like waters of a jungle-clad
gorge on the southern end of Hook
Island, it is a simple meal made with
love. Everyone pitches in. I peel and
devein the prawns, el Capitan mans
the barbecue, my partner rustles up a
pear-and-walnut salad while our
friends marinate steaks and keep our
glasses topped up. Theres nothing to
distract us besides each others
company and the stories we tell.
Butchers relays his most
memorable cruise; it was with an
exhausted British family. I could tell
the father, who ran a bank in London,
didnt want to be here, and he cracked
it when he heard there was no Wi-Fi
on board, he recalls. The next
morning, we woke up on Whitehaven
Beach. One by one they crawled out
of bed onto the top deck and stared in
awe at the view, speechless. The dad
turned and said to me: This is the
most beautiful place Ive ever seen.
Thank you. Clinking our glasses,
we say the same.
Several airlines y into Great Barrier
Reef airport, and Proserpine airport
(two hours away by road and ferry),
from Melbourne, Sydney, Cairns and
Brisbane. Sunsail: 61-2/8912-7040;
sunsail.com.au; ve nights on a
catamaran for up to eight passengers
bareboating from A$4,075, or for up
to six passengers and a skipper from
A$5,650; food and drink extra.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
149
malaysia.
By Marc o Ferrar e se
Wow look at the tree over there.
My brother is pointing at the
branches overhead, half laughing. Im
still helping my girlfriend get off the
bumboat and onto the pier, but he
keeps pulling at my arm.
Will you look? Its so funny.
In the thicket above us, a furry
creature the size of a small man
quietly stuffs long leaves in his mouth,
ruminating slowly. But its the big,
reddish, eggplant-shaped nose
emerging from the center of his
hairless face thats the source of my
brothers glee. The gold fur on top and
at the sides of his head make the bare
proboscis nose even more ludicrous.
I read that it attracts the females,
my brother laughs even louder.
Whatever small argument wed had
upon boarding the bumboat to Bako
National Parks main waterfront, it is
now forgotten in monkey-awe. Our
group of friends surrounds us quickly,
amused at natures answer to Cyrano
de Bergerac. But soon, as if annoyed by
150
D E C E M B E R 2 014
a bunch of paparazzi, the monkey

turns its funny protuberance towards
us, opens its mouth wide, and scolds
us with a deep throaty hoot before
climbing down the tree trunk. Thats
when we realize that we, too, had been
observed: just meters behind us on the
beach, three other proboscis monkeys
stand watching and furrowing their
noses. This peaceful species survives
only in Malaysian and Indonesian
Borneo, and is very social among its
own kind. Moving cautiously on long
gray limbs, they slide under the pier to
join Cyrano and take to the marshes,
hooting until they disappear into the
branches of the farthest scrubs.
We had come to Bako with Borneo
Adventurewhich assures meetings
with ying lemurs and silver leaf
monkeys, as well as proboscisnot
expecting to see more than one
exemplar of the famed big-nosed
Bornean, but theyre everywhere.
Getting our plates full this fast turns
out to be incredibly inebriating: were
so psyched about the proboscis

monkey melee that when we happen
upon a herd of equally rare Borneo
bearded pigs sniffing around the
parks headquarters, we decide they
must be queuing up for tickets.
Giddily we stumble back to the
gardens of the Kebun, a gracious
organic farm on the edge of Kubah
National Park with chalet bungalows
and an Iban longhouse with common
verandaan ideal spot for our group
to while away the night over cards,
monkey jokes and shots of tuak, potent
rice wine from Sarawak. I dont know
if its the tuak that has helped cast the
jungle spell we are under, but on this
safari, we get along as a wolf pack.
Waking up early, we pile into one of
the cars that the Kebun provides
complimentary with our rooms, for
the drive to Semenggoh orangutan
sanctuary, where a team works to
rehabilitate semi-wild orangutans of
the pongo pygmaeus species native to
Borneo. The animals return to the
center for feedings at 9 a.m. and 3 p.m.
daily. As soon as we arrive at the
viewing platform, the thicket crackles
and four men of the forest majestically
surface from the undergrowth
A L E X A N D E R S H A L A M O V/ D R E A M S T I M E . C O M
SIMIAN SAFARI
Getting up close and

personal with proboscis
monkeys can bond
besties into a wolf pack.
ANOTHER TRIO OF TEAM TRIPS

BY ST E P H A N I E ZU B I RI
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F N I S E K O V I L L A G E ; B R YA N O C A M P O ; C O U R T E S Y O F P A D D L E N E P A L
SKI TRIP
japan.
oating on lianas. Seeing them swing

down and gently pluck ripe fruits
directly off the rangers hand is
amazing and scary.
A mother orangutan carries a small
baby clinging to her waist as the cutest
fanny pack ever. Still not completely
covered in fur, he keeps glancing
curiously into our camera lenses as if
wanting to make sure that he doesnt
belong to our hairless and inquisitive
kind. Mommy keeps pushing chunks
of fruit between his lips. Dont stare,
she seems to reprove him with pursed
black lips and a grave stare. Eat this
melon, and soon youll have a nice
orange fur, and wont look like a
human anymore. The baby opens his
mouth, eats the fruit, and nally looks
away. Whatever the species, moms
always get their way. +
Several airlines y into Kuching from
Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur
and other Malaysian cities. Borneo
Adventure: 60-82/245-175; borneo
adventure.com; tours from RM78 per
person, ve-day Best of Kuching tour
RM1,646 per person. The Kebun: 6014/577-5666; thekebun.com; doubles
from RM520 including meals and car.
Dubbed the Aspen of the East, with its

consistent snowfall and chic set, the
powdery slopes of Niseko have made it a
hotspot in the ski circuit. And the hottest
spot of all? In front of the modern replace
in the Glasshouse, a stunning ve-bedroom
designer home whose windows overlook
spectacular Mt. Yotei. The terrain has a
multitude of intermediate slopes, easy for
ski bunnies of all levels to enjoy. For the
more intrepid, there are monitored o-piste
areas as well as heli-skiing options. Aprs
ski with sake, Sapporo or whiskey, as you
exchange stories about the best run ever
at the legendary, hard-to-nd Bar Gyu. One
night go all-out on a Hokkaido seafood
degustation at the famed Kamimura. The
next, warm your cold bones with a steamy
bowl at soba master Tatsuru Rais Sobatei
Rakuichi, a 12-seater shack at the edge of
the forest, then hit one of Nisekos many
onsenor pile into the Glasshouses
Jacuzzi, nodding in agreement that this is
as good as it gets. Glasshouse:
nisekoalpineaccomodation.com; from
22,300 per person per night for a full house
o peak. Bar Gyu: gyubar.com. Kamimura:
kamimura-niseko.com; 13,000 per person
for a nine-course degustation. Sobatei
Rakuichi: 81-1/3658-3170; from 1,300.
RAFTING EXPEDITION
nepal.
For an adventure whose very success
depends on teamwork, grab your favorite
thrill-seekers and go white-water raing in
Nepal. Snake your way through the many
rivers nourished by the icy, melting

Himalayan snowsuch as the relaxed,
Trisuli that runs across terraced rice elds,
idyllic valleys and impressive gorges; or the
more extreme Marshyangdi, known as The
Raging Riverand nish the day camped
out by the riverbanks enjoying a cup of hot
cocoa. Run by the members of Nepals
National White Water teams, Paddle Nepal
is one of the best outts, with ISO-certied
equipment and food that goes beyond the
simple lentil curry. And youll need the
nourishment to navigate the up-to-Class-V
rapids. What better way to bond than
putting your lives in each others hands?
paddlenepal.com; two-day getaway allinclusive packages leaving from Kathmandu
or Pokhara from US$125 per person.
FOOD TOUR
philippines.
Theres nothing better than sharing a good
meal with good friendsor, as you call your
besties in the Philippines, barkadas. Here,
food tripping has become very popular, and
a favorite barkada getaway is a two-hour
drive from Manila to Pampanga, a province
known for its spectacular produce and
authentic cuisinefern salad with fried
grasshoppers, anyone? Book a food tour
with Bryan Ocampo. Passionate about the
regions culinary heritage, he oers three
meals, snacks, a baking lesson and visits to
a museum and the factories of local
delicacies. For the next day, reserve lunch
at famous chef and artist Claude Tayags
Bale Dutung, where he and his wife Mary
Ann welcome you to their traditional home
and oer their sumptuous slow-roasted
lechn (pig) done ve ways. Youll be sated
and ready to eschew a sit-down dinner that
evening in favor of a wine-drenched sunset
picnic set up by Green Canyon resort, at
which youll all lean back and let out a
simultaneous sigh of satisfaction. Bryan
Ocampo: mangankapampangan.com;
P2,900 per person for a minimum group of
eight. Bale Dutung: baledutung.com; P1,750
per person for a minimum group of 12, or
join another group for lunch. Green Canyon:
greencanyon.com.ph; doubles from P11,000.
Our Definitive Guide to
CCTV Headquarters.
Opposite: A slurpy
bounty at Noodle Bar.
Beijings cool cachet is rising.

Gabrielle Jaffe leads the way to hutong hotels
and nouveaux-Sino restaurantsand provides
the insiders take on the capitals classic sites.
Photographed by Cherry Li
D E C E M B E R 2 014
153
BEIJING
N
CAOC H A N G DI
A Peony
room at
The Temple.
Below:
Check in at
Opposite
House.
798
A R T ZON E
G U LOU
LAMA
T E M PL E
SA N LITU N
GONGTI
G UOM AO
H I STORIC C E NTE R
1 KM
Lay of
the Land
Historic center
At Beijings heart, the
Forbidden City has stood
guard for 600 years. To its
south, the other big-hitters:
Tiananmen Square, Maos
mausoleum and Qianmen.
Guomao
This CBD is a modernist
playground, home to
high-end hotels, restaurants
and towering skyscrapers.
Gongti + Sanlitun
The entertainment district
is chock-a-block with stylish
restaurants, bars and clubs.
Gulou + Lama Temple
Between the drum and bell
towers (known collectively
as Gulou in Mandarin) and
the Lama Temple is a maze
of traditional alleys, dotted
with cafs, bars and
boutiquesa hipster haven.
798 + Caochangdi
The citys two art districts,
packed with galleries and
design shops.
Getting around
The subway is fast and easy,
with English signs, but some
areas still arent served. The
arrival of Uber is a welcome
plan B to taxis, whose
drivers mostly dont speak
English and are hard to hail.
154
D E C E M B E R 2 014
Stay
Whether in an ancient classic or modern
marvel, youll sleep like an emperor.
RAFFLES
Beijings grande dame, close to
the Forbidden City, once hosted
Charles de Gaulle and George
Bernard Shaw. After a revamp by
Raffles, it has the comfort and
luxury to match its heritage. 33
East Changan Ave.; 86-10/65263388; raffles.com; RMB1,550.
THE TEMPLE
Tucked in an atmospheric alley,
this eight-room boutique in a
converted 600-year-old temple
keeps things fresh and funky with
modern art and 1960s furniture
mixed in with Qing-dynasty
carpentry. 23 Shatan North St.;
86-10/8401-5680;
thetemplehotel.com; RMB2,000.
ROSEWOOD
The new kid on a very wellappointed block, this CBD hotel
boasts stylish, modern Asian
design and views of the iconic

CCTV tower. Jing Guang Centre,
Hujialou; 86-10/6597-8888;
rosewoodhotels.com; RMB1,800.
W BEIJING
Halfway between Tiananmen
Square and the CBD, this newbie
has top dining options and a spa,
and all the mod-cons and playful
design youd expect from the W
brand, including W insiders who
can book you that Peking opera
class last minute. 2 Jianguomen
South Ave.; 86-10/6515-8855;
wbeijing.com; RMB2,200.
OPPOSITE HOUSE
Stunning, open, modernist
design by Japanese architect
Kengo Kuma meets Chinese
contemporary art in the center of
buzzy Sanlitun. 11 Sanlitun Rd.;
86-10/6417-6688; theopposite
house.com; RMB2,100.
AMAN AT SUMMER PALACE
A lot of hotels claim to offer the
royal treatment, but this grand
resort backs onto the Summer
Palace, giving guests after-hours
access to the Dowager Empresss
playground. Daily tea ceremonies,
other cultural offerings and
elegant courtyards add to the
imperial appeal. 1 Gongmenqian
St.; 86-10/5987-9999;
amanresorts.com; RMB3,000.
GRACE
Hip, affordable boutique in 798
district, with a popular weekend
brunch that draws the local art
crowd. 2 Jiuxianqiao Rd.;
86-10/6436-1818; gracehotels.
com; RMB585.
Hotel prices represent starting rates for double occupancy.
ONE TO WATCH The Orchid In early 2015, this Gulou boutique, much in demand for its restored
wood-beamed buildings and open terraces, will launch its second outpost in Dashilar, an increasingly trendy
hood just south of Tiananmen. A rooop pool improves on the original winning formula. theorchidbeijing.com.
Shop
Local designs with

global appeal.
LOST & FOUND A charming vintage and retroinspired trove on the same tree-lined street as the
Confucius Temple offers a window into Beijings past
and is a great place to pick up souvenirs. 42 Guozijian St.;
86-10/6401-1855; lostandfound.cn.
PLASTERED Tongue-in-cheek, funky t-shirts, hoodies
and bags make this a standout on a bustling pedestrian
lane in Gulou. 61 Nanluoguxiang; plasteredtshirts.com.
1 2 F A C E S M I N I AT U R E V A S E S E T: C O U R T E S Y O F S P I N
FEI SPACE Covetable furniture and clothes by Chinese

designers plus rare-in-China labels like Topshop. B-01,
798, 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd.; 86-10/5978-9580; feilook.com.
SPIN Beautiful, modern ceramics envisioned by local
designers and crafted by artisans using old techniques
in Jingdezhen (the countrys porcelain capital for almost
2,000 years). 6 Fangyuan West Rd.; 86-10/6437-8649.
BRAND NU At this charity shop selling upcycled
clothes and fair-trade jewelry and crafts by minorities,
youre sure to find something interesting. 61 Wudaoying
Hutong; 86-10/6407-8425; brandnuproject.com.
Clockwise
from right:
Womens
clothing at
Lost & Found;
ceramics in
Spin; Lost &
Found; faces
on vases at
Spin.
PEARL MARKET At the enormous Hong Qiao Market,

stalls hawk everything from Chinese fans to top-quality
pearlsfor the best of these, head to the top floor.
Whatever you buy, bargain hard. 9 Tiantan Rd.
See Do
FORBIDDEN CITY,
TIANANMEN SQUARE
AND QIANMEN GATE The
big boys align on a northsouth axis. The energetic can
cover all three by foot in one
day. For full enlightenment
and saucy tales of court
intrigue, bring along an
engaging guide from
Newman Tours. newman
tours.com; from RMB290.
SUMMER PALACE Escape
the city to wander gardens,
orchards and pavilions, and to
boat out on the lake. Its
especially pretty during April
blossom season. 19 Xinjian
Gongmen St.; RMB30.
National Centre for

the Performing Arts.
TEMPLE OF HEAVEN The

complex, whose highlights
include an ancient sacricial
altar and an ingenious echo
Smart ways to get

your cultural fix.
wall, is enclosed by a lively

parkarrive by 7 a.m. to see
Beijingers doing water-brush
calligraphy, tai chi and
swordplay. tiantanpark.com;
entrance RMB30.
NATIONAL CENTRE FOR
THE PERFORMING ARTS
Affectionately nicknamed
The Egg, this ultra-modern
icon hosts internationally
acclaimed orchestras,
Western and Peking opera,
ballet and theater groups, in
a setting as dramatic as the
performances. chncpa.org
THE HUTONG From Beijing
specialties to Shaanxi
noodles, this cultural hub
oers cooking classes for
regional cuisines from across
China, as well as heritage and
history courses. thehutong.
com; cooking classes from

RMB280.
THE GREAT WALL Some
of the most picturesque parts
are an easy drive from Beijing.
Hire a driver to get to remote
Jinshanling or Gubeikou,
then soak tired limbs at the
open-until-late Feng Shan
Hot Springs Resort (10
Mangshan Rd.; 86-10/60711188). Trek wild sections of
the Great Wall with Beijing
Hikers (beijinghikers.com), or
stay the night at charming
retreats beside the wall such
as Chinese Box Gubeikou
Great Wall (greatwallbox.
com; RMB1,200 for a private
ensuite) and the Brickyard
at Mutianyu (brickyardat
mutianyu.com; RMB1,480), so
you can see the wall early in
the morning and late at night,
daytripper-free.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
155
BEIJING
Clockwise from left: The tranquil
interior of Transit; a Noodle Bar chef
works his magic; Transits spicy
Sichuan noodles.
Nightlife
Chow your way through China at the capitals most coveted tables.
DA DONG
For the ultimate Peking duck,
where the bronzed birds are
carved tableside with the
precision of Chinas synchronized
swim team, a visit to Da Dong is a
must. For added glam, try the
swanky new Gongti branch.
Workers Stadium East Gate;
86-10/6551-1808;
dadongdadong.com; RMB600.
NOODLE BAR
This adorable, chic 12-seater
has an open kitchen so you can
watch the chefs hand-pull your
artisanal, northern-style
wheat noodles. Its the perfect
fuel for a day of sightseeing.
1949 Complex, Gongti North
Road; 86-10/6501-1949;
elite-concepts.com;
RMB100.
LOST HEAVEN
Savor the fragrant, chili-andherb-inflected flavors from a
melting pot of regions, including
Yunnan, Vietnam, Burma and
Thailand, in a stylish building that
originally served as the American
embassy. 23 Qianmen East Ave.;
86-10/8516-2698; lostheaven.
com.cn; RMB300.
IKI
At its new Gongti location, this
Taiwanese-Korean barbecue
restaurant draws a fun, young
crowd thanks to its delectable
marinades, quality marbled
meats and fabulous cocktails.
China View Building 6, 2 Gongti
East Rd.; 86/152-1006-4588;
RMB300.
156
D E C E M B E R 2 014
TRANSIT
A sophisticated, modern take on
spicy Sichuanese cuisine that will
have you saying wow after every
mouthful. 3F, Taikoo Li North,
Sanlitun Road; 86-10/64179090; RMB400.
XIAN LAO MAN
This old favorite has the best
dumplings in town and scores of
Beijing delicacies. An Englishlanguage menu and revamped
dcor mean its busier than ever.
Locals eat dinner early so go for
lunch or around 8 p.m. to avoid
the queues. 252 Andingmen Inner
St.; 86-10/6497 2097; RMB100.
Restaurant prices
represent approximate
cost of dinner for two.
End an aernoon touring

with a frosty one at A
TAPROOM (capitalbrew.
com), the newest, sleekest
addition to the wave of
microbreweries popping up
in Beijing. For an imperial
sundowner, head to the roof
bars of either Emperor
hotel (theemperor.com.cn);
one overlooks the
Forbidden City, the other a
spectacular vista of
Qianmen and Tiananmen.
Time-travel to Janes and
Hooch (janeshooch.com), a
1920s-style speakeasy
that attracts a set as
sophisticated as its cocktail
list. Party all night at one of
the two popular bars at
Migas (migasbj.com)the
roof is packed in summer;
the industrial-chic indoors
draws trendy young things
all year with its outstanding
house and funk DJs.
From left: UCCA gallery;

spears of candied haw fruit;
up-and-coming labels at
Brand New China.
I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y W A S I N E E C H A N TA K O R N
LIU LU
WANG GE
LILLIAN CHOU
Editor, Vice
China Magazine
Food writer and

consultant
Beijing has an inspiring indie scene.

Hidden behind an unassuming red
door, Yugong Yishan (yugong
yishan.com) is the spot for leading
local and foreign acts, from rock to
hip-hop. Beijings punks gather at
School (53 Wudaoying Hutong), and
Dada (206 Gulou East Ave.) is great if
you like electronica. If youre in the
mood for experimental sound, Zajia
Lab (zajialab.org), in a former
Taoist temple, has weekly music, art
and lm events. Independent, edgy
Chinese lms are screened at UCCA
gallery (ucca.org.cn).
Art
Scene
Search out traditional snacks from

hutong holes-in-the-wall. Look for
cumin-grilled lamb kebabs (chuanr)
made by Muslims from west China.
A convenient trio of shops offers old
delights: stinky tofu at Mao
Family Stinky Tofu (147 Dianmen
Outer St.); uffy hunks of red date
cake at the next window; and,
nearby, roast nuts at Fragrant
Autumn Chestnut shop (2
Dianmenwai Dajie). Cyclists sell
spears of sweet and sour candied
haw fruit, while sweet potatoes are
roasted in barrel ovens on corners.
Fashion designer
and founder of
Luvon label
If you want Designed in China

instead of Made in China clothes,
Brand New China (Taikoo Li North,
Sanlitun Road; 86-10/6416-9045) is
the place. The large boutique has the
most complete collection of up-andcoming designers. Sophisticated
Dong Liang (102, Bldg. 2, Central
Park, 6 Chaoyangmen Outer Ave.;
86-10/8404-7648) and funkier
Water Stone (0662 B1 Bldg. 6,
Jianwai SOHO, Middle East Third
Ring Road; 86-10/5869-9456) carry
selected local labels and
international collections.
Chinese contemporary art is among the worlds hottest now. In 798 district, former
factories provide spartan-cool backdrops for galleries. Its easy to take a serendipitous
stroll through the tightly packed area but dont miss big-hitting show spaces such as
Pace (pacebeijing.com), Faurschou (faurschou.com) and UCCA. The more spread out
and art-serious Caochangdi district has Galerie Urs Meile (galerieursmeile.com)
Three Shadows Photography (threeshadows.cn) and Pekin Fine Arts (pekinfine
arts.com) all promising exciting shows but the area is hard to navigate. Hire a car for
the day or Bespoke Beijing (bespokebeijing.com) for tours and private studio access.
D E C E M B E R 2 014
157
Last Look
Photographed by
Seong Joon Cho
South Korea
Above it all
High above the crowds at Haeundae
Beach in Busan, the distance
transforms umbrellas and bathing
rings into pinwheels and breakfast
cereal. This photo, like the rest on
this page, was taken by a drone.
A glimpse of the past

The autumn leaves of ginkgo trees
coat the landscape around this old
house at Cheongna Ginkgo Village
in Boryeong, an area notable for its
unspoiled nature, lled with
wildowers and edged by the sea.
Rapid descent
Kayaking down the Naerincheon
Valley near Inje brings an adrenalin
rush of white water. The northernowing river has spectacularly clear
watersin the stretches along its
57-kilometers that are actually calm.
Seven centuries later

Inhabitants of the unesco-listed
Naganeupseong Folk Village, a
fortress town near Suncheon, live
in thatched-roof, stone cottages
without indoor plumbing, much like
their ancestors did in the 1300s.
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D E C E M B E R 2 014
SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT WITH

T+L SOUTHEAST ASIA DECEMBER 2014
I N S I D E R
SHINE ON
W HOTELS SPARKLING WINTER HOTSPOTS ARE WHERE

SMART TRAVELLERS ESCAPE TO WHEN THE REST OF
THE WORLD IS SHIVERING AND SNEEZING. W RETREATS
IN KOH SAMUI, BALI AND THE MALDIVES OUTSHINE
OTHERS WITH THEIR UNIQUE BLEND OF TRANQUIL
LOCATIONS OFFERING BLISSFUL SPA TREATMENTS AND
CUTTING-EDGE FITNESS PROGRAMS ALL IN A CHIC
STYLE. THE RECENT RESTYLING OF W MALDIVES RETREAT
WAS INSPIRED BY THE ABUNDANCE OF SURROUNDING
NATURE FOR ITS THEME TITLED LET IT GLOW. BORROWING
FROM THE INDIAN OCEANS VIVID MARINE LIFE AND
THE TWINKLING STARS OF THE CLEAR NIGHT SKY, THE
RETREAT UNVEILED A SENSORY EXPERIENCE WITH ITS
BEACH OASIS INTERIOR DESIGN, WHILE THE OCEAN OASIS
DESIGN MIMICS THE ENERGY OF THE SEA LIFE. FOODIES
CAN EXPERIENCE THE CULINARYDELIGHTS OF THREE
VENUES, INCLUDING FISH, THE OUTDOOR RESTAURANT
THAT FOCUSES ON FRESH, LOCAL INGREDIENTS. ALSO
THIS YEAR, W HOTELS LAUNCHED THE W FIT WITH
TARA STILES RETREAT PACKAGE WORLDWIDE, WHICH
INCLUDED W BALI IN SEPTEMBER WHERE 200 YOGA
ENTHUSIASTS SALUTED THE SUNSET ON THE BEACH. THE
NEXT ONE TAKES PLACE IN W MALDIVES THIS MONTH.
GO ON, YOU KNOW YOU WANT TO!
W RETREAT KOH SAMUI
W RETREAT & SPA - MALDIVES
W RETREAT & SPA BALI SEMINYAK
ROCK
THE EMPIRE
W HOTELS CHINA CAUSED A SENSATION WHEN IT OPENED

ITS DOORS IN BEIJING TO REVEAL A VIBRANT VIBE AND
A FOCUS ON DESIGN, FASHION, MUSIC AND 24/7 SERVICE
Hip, happening and with a hint of history. Thats the
dazzling new W BEIJING CHANGAN, which opened
its doors last month. Fusing the old with the new, the
fabulous and funky hotel features the best of cuttingedge designs inspired by the grandeur of the citys past.
Located on Changan Avenue moments from the
distinguished diplomatic center and iconic landmarks
such as the FORBIDDEN CITY and TIANANMAN SQUARE,
and modern monoliths like the CCTV tower, W BEIJING
CHANGAN enhances the neighborhoods dynamic
metropolitan vibe. The focus of the hotel is on design,
fashion, music, 24/7 service and insider access.
Captivated by the shapes of the citys celebrated
monuments, award-winning global architects RTKL and
Hong Kong-based interior design firm AB CONCEPTS
have created an original and eye-catching interior
for W BEIJING CHANGAN . The hotels public rooms
incorporate spectacular installations, vibrant colors,
dynamic textures and bold lighting, such as the W
lounge, which has an imperial ceiling design in round
and square patterns, a LED-lit catwalk in the middle of
the room that leads to a circular bar and an awesome
DJ booth hanging from the ceiling. A secret space shaped

like a birdcage is tucked away behind the bar, while the
other side of the room houses the cube, a light-filled
space inspired by the iconic WATER CUBE. The lounges
informative Whatever/Whenever desk speaks for itself.
In YEN, the hotels Chinese restaurant, local history is
once more the key, while the X25 chill-out lounge at the
top of the hotel offers stunning views over the old city
wall and is where DJs mix original beats and mixologists
create bespoke drinks. The unveiling of the new 349-room
W BEIJING CHANGAN followed Chinas biggest and most
prestigious design event, BEIJING DESIGN WEEK (BJDW).
Around 1,000 talents from the global design and
architectural community attended the BJDW launch party
and experienced an exclusive preview of W Beijing
Changan through a five-meter-tall glass cube.The cube
also hosted a press after-party. In collaboration, the hotel
and BJDW presented 2014 W Beijing Changan Rising
Designer, an award that recognizes outstanding young
talent, and which was this year won by Chi Zhang,
a Beijing-born, Milan-trained fashion designer famous
for his cutting-edge gas mask designs.
AT W BEIJING CHANGAN
BOOK YOUR PACKAGE AND RECEIVE A CNY 600 HOTEL CREDIT
USE YOUR CREDIT AT OUR BARS AND RESTAURANTS OR ENJOY
A RECOVERY TREATMENT AT OUR AWAY SPA
T (86) 10 6515 8855 WHOTELS.COM/BEIJING
#HEATWAVE
W GUANGZHOU
W HONG KONG TEAMED UP WITH W RETREAT

& SPA MALDIVES AND ABSOLUT VODKA
FOR POOLSIDE REVELRY UNDER THE STARS.
W HONG KONG
It was a long, scorching summer and W HONG KONG ignited the spark
with its sizzling pool parties HEAT WAVE. Plunging head first into the
highly anticipated summer series, W Hong Kong teamed up with the
exotic W Retreat & Spa Maldives for the first splash out in June when
it gave away a free trip to the Maldives to one lucky partygoer.
Sponsored by ABSOLUT VODKA, the five-poolside extravaganzas from
June to August at W Hong Kongs iconic rooftop pool WET 76 floors up
were the highlight of the season. Guests needed little encouragement
to get their groove on at the citys highest outdoor pool where they
strutted their stuff under the stars and above a stunning panoramic
harbor view. Sexy summer white was the theme brought to Hong
Kong by W RETREAT & SPA MALDIVES, which added the white beach
elements to W HONG KONG with the addition of white hammocks,
palm trees and dancers dressed in white. The revelry continued at the
after-party in the clouds at the WOOBAR, the hotspot for fashion and
music, where the entire team of W Hong Kongs resident DJs, Kenji
Hidaka, Andrew Hendley and Parvenu mixed it up on the decks.
THE RESIDENCES
AT W SINGAPORE SENTOSA COVE
W SINGAPORE
W RESIDENCES
VIBRANT.
WELCOMING.
EXCLUSIVE
ATLANTA
DOWNTOWN
AUSTIN
BALI
BOSTON
DALLAS
FORT LAUDERDALE
GUANGZHOU
HOBOKEN
HOLLYWOOD
KOH SAMUI
LONDON
NEW YORK
DOWNTOWN
SANTIAGO
SCOTTSDALE
THERE ARE 17 W RESIDENCES IN VIBRANT CITIES AND
EXOTIC DESTINATIONS OFFERING HOMEOWNERS
THE ULTIMATE IN HOTEL SERVICES AND AMENITIES.
JOIN THE FEW THAT ARE LUCKY ENOUGH TO CALL
W THEIR HOME. HTTP://WWW.WRESIDENCES.COM/
SINGAPORE
SOUTH BEACH
TEL AVIV
VERBIER
INSIDER
ACCESS
PING PONG BAR
Hello and a wonderful welcome to the world of W!

Thats the greeting guests receive in my welcome
letter from W HONG KONG. They can also download
the W INSIDER GUIDE and connect with me that way.
W Insiders are the first point of contact guests have
with W Hotels and we have an amazing shared
network in which we exchange wow! moments as
well as guests unique preferances and special
arrangements. Were dedicated to elevating guests
experience with personal recommendations and
insights. We dig deep behind the glamorous
postcard images and explore off-the-beaten track
places. Ive never felt like its a job, its natural for me
to be curious and Im happiest when I can share my
discoveries with others. What do I enjoy most about
being a W INSIDER? When Im able to create that
special moment for people. We have guests who
travel to all our properties and they are often
surprised to find W Insiders greet them with the same
familiar friendliness that makes them feel at home.
The city may change, but the welcome is the same.
EDITUS
CHARLIES TOP SPOTS
MOUTAIN HIKE GETWAY
The former POLICE MARRIED QUARTERS (PMQ) is

a historic building thats now a quirky, creative hub
with designer boutiques. MAN CHEUNG PO at Tai O,
Lantau Island is the perfect place to relax and
unwind. It has breathtaking views, waterfalls and
a natural infinity pool. PING PONG 129 GINTONERIA
is a former warehouse that has been transformed
into a bar serving exquisite gin-based cocktails. Visit
THE ED1TUS SHOWROOM for sophisticated designs .
PMQ
CHARLIE
W HONG KONG
CHUNKY
W RETREAT & SPA
MALDIVES
JOYCE HSU
W TAIPEI
AMANDA ZHENG
W GUANGZHOU
RIKA
W BALI
SALLY
W SEOUL
CARA
W SINGAPORE
MIO
W BANGKOK
ZITA
W RETREAT KOH SAMUI
DINO
W BALI
EXPLORE
WHOTELS.COM
POSE IN
PARADISE
W RETREAT & SPA BALI SEMINYAK
HOSTS THE FIRST YOGA SESSION ON
THE BEACH AT SUNSET AS PART OF THE
W FIT RETREAT PACKAGE WORLDWIDE
More than 200 yoga enthusiasts gathered on the

beach at W RETREAT BALI on Saturday September 13
to enjoy an evening of fun and fitness with celebrated
expert TARA STILES. The sunset and the ocean at the
Saturday night class were the perfect backdrop for
movements such as the sun salutation yoga sequence,
for which DJ Josep and his band from Barcelona
provided gorgeous live beats. A well-earned cocktail
party followed the class. Tara Stiles is the founder and
owner of STRALA YOGA, the high-energy movement
system that is said to ignite freedom, and her nonpurist take on yoga offers a refreshing alternative
to traditional practice. The fitness guru said everybody at her W RETREAT BALi yoga sessions had an
amazing time Being at W Bali is absolutely fabulous.
The scenery is beautiful, everybody is always smiling
its warm, friendly and lush everywhere you look
is super inspiring and gorgeous. This was a first-time
event for the retreat and was part of the third exclusive
W FIT WITH TARA STILES retreat Package Worldwide,
which saw guests kick-start each day with a sunrise
Strala Yoga session in various Balinese beauty spots.
Organic menus, devised by Stiles to suit a hectic
lifestyle, were part of the package.
EXPLORE
WHOTELS.COM
DUBFIRE AT SPF 2014
MISS KITTIN AT SPF 2014
SIP. PLAY.
FLIRT.
You know its the hottest party of the year
when youve got the best bangin beats
at a sizzling retreat like W Bali. Just as
well there was plenty of SPF thats SIP.
PLAY, FLIRT 2014 on a steamy July night
of glamour and grooves at WOOBAR.
When headliner DJ DUBFIRE stepped up
to the decks to pound out his signature
house and techno, the crowd erupted.
The American one-half of the Grammy
Award-winning duo DEEP DISH
delivered the mix of dark, pulsating
techno and syncopated tech house that
has earned him the reputation as the
DJs DJ. As if that wasnt enough, the
up4it crowd was also treated to a sultry
set by sassy French DJ Caroline Herve
aka Miss Kittin, the electro-clash pioneer
and mistress of monotone. Topped off
with a firework display on the shoreline
of Seminyak beach, eager partygoers
lapped up the fun until the early hours.
SUNSET
VIBE
HEATWAVE CLOSING
PARTY FT. DEFECTED
There was a fantastic vibe at W RETREAT

& SPA BALI SEMINYAK on the night
of the HEAT WAVE closing party in
September. Not surprising, given that
the legendary DJ SIMON DUNMORE
OF DEFECTED delivered a cracking set.
The successful house label ended its
South East Asia tour in Bali and closed
Ws summer series with the maestro
taking to the decks alongside Australian
star SONNY FODERA. The duos carefully
curated and flawlessly mixed house
beats set the scene at Woobar against
the backdrop of a magical Balinese
sunset. It was the perfect end to a
season of packed out parties.
IMS IBIZA 2014
INTERNATIONAL MUSIC
SUMMIT - ASIA PACIFIC
W SINGAPORE SENTOSA COVE will play host to one of
the most exciting music events of the year this month
when the IBIZA INTERNATIONAL MUSIC SUMMIT (IMS)
presented by legendary DJ Pete Tong, rocks up on the
shores of Sentosa Cove. Nine hours of fun will kick off
at midday on Thursday December 11, the day before
ZOUKOUT, Asias biggest dance festival. IMS is a
celebration of electronic music and a platform for those
involved in the creation of the genre and its future
success. The aim is to educate, inspire and motivate while
creating awareness of, and appreciation for, electronic
music and all related art forms worldwide. Its where the
best minds on the scene create new apps, exclusive
remixes, and music technology trials. The event also
showcases opportunities for breakthrough artists and
record labels. IMS ASIA-PACIFIC 2014 has been timed to
coincide with the annual ZOUKOUT so that many artists
and industry players, who are expected to be present
at both events, will also have an opportunity to gather
together and discuss topics relevant to the region. Its
a big deal for the industry and the region, and its also a
top excuse to party. The closing event and celebrations
will take place at W Bali Retreat & Spa Seminyak on
Sunday December 14.
W GUANGZHOU
WET BAR
ACTRESS MS. GAO

YUAN YUAN
MARRY ME
MR. VIC ZHOU,

MS. MIRIAM YEUNG,
MR. LOUIS KOO
W GUANGZHOU has played a starring role in a box office hit by

a top director. Hong Kongs Johnnie To filmed part of his romantic
comedy DONT GO BREAKING MY HEART 2 on location in the
city and W Guangzhou featured in some of the scenes. It couldnt
have been more apt as W GUANGZHOU is a perfect wedding and
reception venue in a romantic location. There was much excitement
among onlookers as the stars and film crew converged on the
stunningly designed luxury hotel. Leading actor, LOUIS KOO caused
a stir as he scaled the outside of a building as a stunt for his role,
surprising the people inside. The funny and engaging film is a sequel
to the popular 2011 original is about two lovers who find themselves
irresistibly drawn to each other despite being engaged to other
people. The star cast includes Louis Koo, Gao Yuanyuan and
DANIEL WU, as well as Miriam Yeung and Vic Chou. The story DONT
GO BREAKING MY HEART 2 went on general release last month.
FOOD
RE-DESIGN
A dish of light bulbs might not seem like the
most delicious dinner, but its the kind of feast
participants in W Taipeis latest project might
well cook up. W TAIPEI and TAIWAN DESIGN
CENTER (TDC) launched the FOOD RE-DESIGN
TDC X W TAIPEI project in July, headed by the
hotels executive chef Colin Chun with a team
of experts including Dutch designer Annelies
Hermsen who has created edible lightbulbs
as well as nine Taiwanese designers. Over four
months the designers have been using W Taipeis
The Kitchen Table restaurant as their workshop
and stage to showcase their creations. The main
focus of the project is to combine culinary art
and design aesthetics on the theme of LIGHT/
HEALTHY FOOD, with designers putting forward
new proposals for products such as utensils,
space and dining styles. The results of the
project will be unveiled this month and there
will be a fabulous finale at the end of the year.
FOOD REDESIGN
EATABLE LIGHT BULB,
CHERRY BY
SPENCER HUNG
EXPLORE
WHOTELS.COM
W DOES BRUNCH
W DOES BRUNCH
Food and fashion were served at THE KITCHEN TABLE W BANGKOK this
summer. Guests partaking of leisurely late breakfasts were presented
with the chance to meet newly discovered designers and view their
creative collections as part of the W DOES BRUNCH concept. On
the first Saturday of each month, from 12.30pm to 4.30pm, culinary
delights prepared with top quality ingredients were presented to
diners. They included dishes such as foie gras and black truffle
terrine, king crabs legs, queen scallops and roasted beef
rib-eye, washed down with fresh juices or cocktails and
accompanied by chill-out tunes from the DJs.
WOW NAILS
It was excitement and adventure all
the way when W RETREAT KOH SAMUI
and Londons edgiest nail art brand
got together this summer. WAH NAILS
took on the challenge of creating two
exclusive designs using off-the-beaten
track locations in BANGKOK and
KOH SAMUI as inspiration. By way
of W HOTELS INSIDER EXPERIENCE,
Sharmadean Reid, founder of the Wah
Nails, explored a side of Thailand that
cant be found in the guidebooks. From
emerging Thai fashion designers and
innovative art exhibitions to in-the-know
nights on the town, Sharmadean used
her customised Insider Experience to
create the EAST MEETS W-EST nail
art designs, each reflecting the hottest
trends in both iconic Thai destinations.
CELEBRITY MODELS AT W
LOUNGE FOR TAIPEI IN STYLE
SHARMADEAN REID
TAIPEI IN STYLE
W TAIPEI teamed up with Taiwans top fashion event for the second
year running to highlight more than 200 brands in a stunning four-day
showcase in November. Taipei In Style is Taiwans official fashion event,
which has been supported by the TAIWAN TEXTILE FOUNDATION
since 2006. It includes a wide range of occasions such as fashion shows,
trunk shows, seminars and business-matching meetings, all geared
towards further boosting Taiwans powerful presence in the regions
fashion arena. During the course of the four days, an amazing 13 runway
shows were presented, featuring original work by senior designers and
up-and-coming local talents. There was also an exhibition section that
included around 200 fashion brands, which was open to international
buyers, the media and the public on different days. This event was
another feather in the very stylish cap of W HOTELS, which has
created a global platform to help rising fashion stars shine.
LET IT
GLOW
A renowned fashion designer paid tribute

to the natural beauty of the Maldives with
a stylish collection that included colours
and shapes inspired by the island nations
glorious aquatic life, vibrant coral reef and
white sand beaches. In collaboration with
W Retreat & Spa Maldives, TAHIR SULTAN
unveiled his latest creations at the DUBAI
FASHION FORWARD catwalk show last
month, which was set to the sound of music
curated by Michaelangelo LAcqua, global
music director of the W Hotels. The show
unveiled Sultans next spring/summer
collection, which was inspired by his visit, as
well as revealing the unique wardrobe soon
to be worn by the fashion-forward staff of W
Maldives. Tagged INFINITE DAYS & INFINITE
NIGHTS, the collection represented work
and fun, and borrowed from natures colour
palette incorporating shades of turquoise,
amethyst, electric blue and aqua into the
designs, while prints and embellishments
referenced fish scales, pearls, coral and
reefs. During his time at W RETREAT & SPA
MALDIVES, Sultan met with staff in all
departments in order to create practical
pieces suitable for the tropical environment.
Sultans collection is available at W The Store
at W Maldives and in luxury retailers around
the Gulf and India from this month.
CUTTING
EDGE
W RETREAT & SPA MALDIVES AND TAHIR

SULTAN MAKE A SPLASH AT THE DUBAI
FASHION FORWARD CATWALK SHOW
W SEOUL hosted two glamorous events this year.

The first took place in October when guests enjoyed
a stylish dinner buffet while being shown whats new in
fashion, design and music. The GOURMET COUTURE event
was created in collaboration with designer KATHLEEN KYE
and W Seouls Chef Jonathan who produced some awesome
culinary creations. Then, last month, around 300 celebrities,
VIPs, fashionistas and industry experts turned out to support the
design stars of the future in The CUTTING EDGE FASHION show.
The collaboration with top magazine, CECI, included a panel of
editors from leading Korean magazines, who chose two emerging
Korean designers to show their work. KWON MUNSOO and YOON
CHOONHO, showcased their 2015 S/S collections in WOOBAR as
W DJ Labs Gio and Wendy spun the tunes. Ceci magazine has been
championing new design talent for more than 40 years.
CUTTING EDGE
FASHION AT W SEOUL
EXPLORE
WHOTELS.COM

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Contents

Cheers! Travel globally,

112 Diving into Sydney In

122 Artists Alone,

132 This is Burmas

Sunset at the Sydney

Gallery on the Gulf

Cape Towns New

Best of 2014 As the

104 The Worlds Best

152 Our Denitive

Our readers have been honing their photographic skills on

Get the December

This Months Top Lists

Asias Best Seaside

Share your favorite photos on Instagram and tag them with

emember the rst morning you ever woke up in Sydney?

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Sofitel So Bang kok

nniversaries are a time to celebrate

Sipping an expertly mixed cocktail in a

mansion. Beyond the windows, the fiery

Sofitel Angkor Ph okeeth ra

Sydneysiders, in three words

How did you survive an eightrestaurant crawl through Sydney?

Why Bandung? Im intrigued by

I cant remember the last time I was as

You are right: autumn is the best

Up, Up and Away

I also had the opportunity to go up in

The new Martone bike [Easy Rider,

Nara [Fawning over Nara, June] is a

RIC H A RD MC L EISH 2

Hoi An [Six Dishes, April] is one of

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS / PHOTOGRAPHERS

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entertainment, spa treatments, return airport transfers,

News. Finds. Opinions. Obsessions.

Nic Moons Breath

Installations from previous years, clockwise from top left:

Its numerous picturesque

new exhibitors, while event

ARE YOU READY TO ROCK?

love-meets-glamping party is meant to

Attention music lovers, festival fans

Classic Singaporean cuisine with a modern edge is catching on in this sunny

Pidgin Kitchen & Bar

Flee Away Caf

Chef Willin Low is widely

Were a chill-out place but

Just opened in October,

The food here is as fun as the

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Visit all 650 hotels and resorts at PreferredHotels.com/TLSEA

ANDARA RESORT & VILLAS

THE CAPITOL HOTEL TOKYU

RIC H A RD MC L EISH 2

The Lo Boutique hotels remain

combination of California cra