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Contents
November 2013
Features
80
South Africa The most

extraordinary secret beach houses from
our very own Cape Town insiders
92
Mongolia Saddle up with the

eagle-eyed hunters of the steppes. The
dress code? Feathers and your best furs
102
108
Sologne Frances
ancient, enchanted forest is ripe for
exploring in autumn just dont get in
between a wild boar and its lunch
116
Moscow Forget seeing

the city in shades of Cold War grey: its
boom time in Russias rip-roaring capital
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID CROOKES
Monte Carlo Sharp,

sassy and sporty: introducing Diors cruise
collection. And where better to show it
off than super-glamorous Monaco?
Waterline beach house, in Noordhoek, South Africa

November 2013 Cond Nast Traveller 9
Contents November 2013
130
14 Editors letter
16 Contributors
25 Word of mouth Whats creating
a buzz around the world, from Miami
to Marrakech
34 Short break Venture to Berlin to

see the architecture thats giving the
home of Bauhaus a 21st-century edge
42 Streetwise Via Veneto, Rome

45 Out of my comfort zone
34
Daisy Donovan stretches her vocal

talents to breaking point at the
Arab Idol auditions. Plus, tourist
information on Moomin Valley
49 Where to stay Five hotels in the

Highlands; Bed-hopping with Moby;
Room service in Beijing; UK & Ireland
escapes; Hotel condential; Hotel
rooms under 150
62 A letter from Melbourne, where
74
On the cover
Cocoa Island by
COMO, Maldives
Photograph by
Ericka McConnell
Bikini Heidi Klein
Kaftan Liza Bruce
Skincare: The Face
and Body Gradual Tan
by Crme de la Mer
a bookish event comes close to being

written off by a rebellious little girl
65 Style le The coolest ski wear to

zip into this season, plus oral art and
heady new perfume collections
70 Counter culture Defy time and

gravity with the latest neck creams
72 Man on a mission Sailing round

the islands of Stockholm; the scents of
autumn, and The Aviator look
November, hunt for truffles in Provence
130 In Britain Swot up on where to

eat, drink, shop and stay in Cambridge
with our insiders guide
140 Inside track National Trust

chairman Simon Jenkins on the threat
facing Englands landscapes
144 A travellers tales Around the

world with actress Rebecca Hall
146 The view from here Gloomy

globetrotter Karl Pilkington helps out
at a wedding in Bangalore
151 Travel geek Get on board with the

latest hi-tech gear for sailors
152 Family adventures Far-ung fun

in Burma, Laos and Vietnam
155 World on a plate Whip up a

creamy potato gratin, with a chilled
bottle of Beaujolais on the side
157 Books The top travel titles this month

158 Competition Win a 1,500 spa
break at the Lifehouse Spa & Hotel
160 Reader offer Save more than

1,600 on a weeks holiday at the
Banyan Tree Phuket, Thailand
162 The experts Where to nd the

best beaches in Malaysia, what to buy
in Bangkok, and other travel queries
74 Health trip Hurry before words out 192 Room with a view Greystone
about Indias most feelgood spa escape
10 Cond Nast Traveller November 2013
79 If you do one thing in.
Cottage, Mustique
PHOTOGRAPHS: JULIAN KINGMA; ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG
In this issue
102
49
Editors letter
h, the sun, the sun. That makes a fool of civilisation, that turns
us from marching-upright homo sapiens in full-length socks
into mindless amphibious creatures readjusting our pieces of
string, our entire lengths laid out to court its contrary municence.
About this time of year I start to get uncomfortable without it. It feels like
a low-level panic. And I remember our family summer holidays in the South
of France and its heat-hazy days and the smell of pine and the cricket chat
and going swimming in the sea (trying not to get my hair wet! Like my mother!) and then lying on the
beach and the feeling of salt all over me, drying and cracking on my skin.
Here on the beach you will nd all kinds of fellows sucking up the sun. And doing absolutely nothing
otherwise with their day. Tra la la la la. Here is a man who looks like Hemingway; he and his wife
arrive holding hands, and will later leave doing the same. There is a gentleman with a moustache like
a brace of birds ying away from his nose, unfolding his copy of Nice-Matin, turning the page, icking
it out and now creasing it resolutely with his thumb-iron. Here is a girl in bikini bottoms who has
shimmied herself into a bed of pebbles, her skin the colour of rye bread. She does not move. Her
concentration is absolute. A boy, chubby as you like, sticks on his mask and snorkel, the esh folds on
his back tumbling away from him like bakers dough. These beach people munch on their sandwiches,
they kiss each others necks, they stand knee-high in the water with their hands on
their hips and stare out to sea, at the part where just before it becomes sky there seems
to be an iridescent line of white. Can that be right?
We take our little ones down to the beach to collect treasure. The treasure is, in fact,
broken pieces of old bottles that have been rubbed by the water and the tides so that
they become worn down, mottled and soft-edged. The children use their ngers like
rakes and sift the pebbles from side to side to pluck their green and blue bounty
as they nd it. They will do this daily, a swarm of mini-archaeologists, tongues
stuck between teeth in concentration, with the occasional break for ice cream.
At the end of the holidays, they will carry their treasure home in a napkin, and put
it in a jam jar, and label it and store it along with the other labelled jam jars in their bedrooms.
And sometimes, when winter is a fact, and the mornings are particularly cold, and the girls
are all at school and the house is quiet, and a heavy, grey light squats in their rooms, Ill pick up
one of those jars and give it a little shake. All the weathered glass rubs against itself with a
kind of tinkle that seems to release a ghost of summer. And I take a deep breath, and remember
that those times will come around again soon.
This is the new issue of Cond Nast Traveller. For those who are hoping-against-hope-that-they-mightsee-some-winter-blooming-sun-although-theres-no-way-thats-going-to-pan-out. Or might it?
Melinda Stevens
Editor
Truth in Travel is this magazines promise to the reader to be an essential source

of honest, rst-hand opinion and must-have information. You can trust Cond Nast Traveller
to give you the unbiased inside track, with integrity and attitude.
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication.
Unless otherwise stated, hotel prices are low-season rates and restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for two without drinks
Contributors
Inspired by this months Monte Carlo

feature, we asked our contributors to
name their glitziest travel experience
David Crookes Photographer, South Africa (p80)

Anne Dokter Photographer, Mongolia (p92)
On an island in Mozambiques Quirimbas Archipelago.
A moonlight dinner with 60 friends. It wasnt glitzy in a
monied way, but the sky that evening was full of stars and
light; we were barefoot with beers and lots of laughter.
The Carter Suite, Mena House in Cairo. Golden taps,

golden bed, golden light on our view of the Pyramids.
This is vintage glamour at its best, t for presidents and
royals. After a day in the dust of Giza or braving the crush
of humanity in the streets, all that was entirely welcome.
Simon Jenkins Writer, Inside Track (p140)

Florian caf, St Marks Square, Venice, in the early
morning when the crowds are not yet gathered. It is a
place of utter elegance, with even the most workaday
passers-by seeming the epitome of stylishness.
While staying at The Ritz-Carlton, Moscow for

this issue, I was walking to the executive lounge for
breakfast as you do and there was Will Smith
in his dressing gown coming towards me out of a
suite. It made my day, anyway.
Rory MacLean Writer, Short Break Berlin (p34)

Patrick Marnham Writer, Sologne (p108)
I was Rocco Fortes guest in his private box at Longchamp
for the Prix de lArc de Triomphe, with Marco Pierre White
own in to cook lunch. If youre going to spend the day
picking the wrong horses, this is the least painful way to do it.
Travelling by Concorde to JFK, helicopter

transfer to Manhattan and a week in a suite at
The Pierre the prize won for my rst-ever travel
article in 1989. After such a start, how could I do
anything else but be a travel writer?
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID CROOKES; ANNE DOKTER; MATTHIAS HEIDERICH; LISA LINDER; MICHAEL PAUL
Lisa Linder Photographer, Moscow (p116)
EDITOR
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Word of mouth
Whats hot in Lagos Mexico Marrakech Miami
Rajasthan New York Tasmania
EDITED BY EMILY MATHIESON
PHOTOGRAPH: OBI SOMTO/ORANGE CULTURE
BRIGHT &
BEAUTIFUL
As Nigeria emerges as Africas
superpower, Lagos is fast becoming
a fashion hot spot. The nations
vibrant prints, bright colours and
tribal craft traditions are being
revitalised by home-grown designers
whose work played an important
role in the 2009 launch of Arise,
a pan-African fashion magazine.
But it is Lagos Fashion & Design
Week, now in its third year, that has
attracted the current global gaze.
Previous one-off shows focused
on the glitz and glamour but nothing
happened afterwards, says the
events founder, Omoyemi Akerele.
We wanted to put things in place
so the fashion industry can evolve.
And evolving it is. Lisa Folawiyo
of Jewel by Lisa is likely to be one of
Fashion Weeks stars: her handembellished, colourful prints made
from local Ankara fabric have won
favour from Beyonc and Thandie
Newton. Michelle Obama has been
spotted wearing pieces by Maki Oh,
whose clothes are made using the
ancient technique of adire handdyeing and hand-painting. Tiffany
Amber has gained international
exposure by mixing Nigerian prints
with a oaty French vibe; it is
stocked in Cape Town (at design-led
Merchants on Long) and further
aeld in Milans La Rinascente
department store. The menswear
labels are even more experimental.
Take newcomer Orange Culture,
pictured: it mixes smart three-piece
suits with skirts, and contrasts
vibrant prints and dark block colour.
Fans include rapper Tinie Tempah.
Akerele says that her dream
is to see Nigerian brands alongside
Dior and Lanvin in Paris, and for
the countrys burgeoning fashion
industry to attract big-name designers
to Lagos. MELANIE ABRAMS
www.lagosfashionanddesignweek.com;
2326 October
Word of mouth
THE HEAT IS ON
Whatever you want from your winter-sun break,

the Miami Beach hotel scene has it covered
FOR QUIET
will have an ice-skating rink and

a bowling alley as well as a JeanGeorges Vongerichten restaurant. Oh,
and 250 rooms and 26 apartments.
www.edition-hotels.marriott.com
Metropolitan by COMO, Miami

Beach has gone against the partyloving grain by eschewing all
nightlife in favour of a spa, daily
yoga classes and a juice-cleanse
menu. The hotel, which opens in
December in the low-key MidBeach area, will have 74 rooms and
sweet design elements by Paola
Navone, such as balloon lights and
mint-green walls. www.comohotels.
com; doubles from about 225
How is it possible that until now

there was no hotel lobby in Miami
with views of the ocean? Well,
that has changed thanks to the
indomitable Ian Schrager, whose
Miami Beach Edition opens next
year. The no-holds-barred hotel
AND ALL
THAT JAZZ
hen English couple
Mike and Lucie Wood
bought Riad Star in
the Marrakech medina, they had no
idea that Josephine Baker vaudeville
sensation, civil rights activist and mother
of an adopted rainbow tribe lived there
in the 1940s. The performer was a close
friend (perhaps lover) of the Pasha of
Marrakech, who cared for her in his palace
after a miscarriage. The royal residence
is now the Muse de Marrakech; Bakers
riad, with its Art Deco woodwork and
arches, has been restored as a sevenroom hotel with a hammam, dipping
pools and roof terrace. Memorabilia
includes a dress-up box stuffed with
apper dresses, Maurice Chevalierstyle hats and even a banana skirt.
LISA JOHNSON www.marrakechriad.co.uk; doubles from 144
Everyone in Los Angeles knows

The Redbury as a Hollywood hotel
with a good-time, small-plates
restaurant and a retro decor of red
velvet and wallpaper. You can expect
something similar from The Redburys
new Miami arm, although the food
will be ragus and pizzette made by
award-winning chef Tony Mantuano
of Chicagos Spiaggia restaurant.
The 69 rooms will be topped off
with a sure-to-be-buzzy roof bar.
www.the redbury.com/southbeach;
doubles from about 130
EIMEAR LYNCH
Tassie mania
Hobarts MONA gallery has
wowed critics and the new
Islington hotel has brought
boutique style to the city. Now
a New York-trained local chef
has put sensational food on
the agenda, with tasting tours
of the hippest restaurants and
cafs in the Tasmanian capital,
recently named Australias
most happening city.
www.gourmania
foodtours.com.au
JAMES
STEWART
PHOTOGRAPHS: MARGOT HARTFORD/GETTY IMAGES; MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES
FOR VIEWS
FOR FUN
24 SACKVILLE STREET, LONDON, W1S 3DS
178 WESTBOURNE GROVE, LONDON, W11 2RH 45 BRUSHFIELD STREET, LONDON, E1 6AA
Word of mouth
PALMA
SEATTLE
DETROIT
SHOREDITCH
HIP TO
BE SQUARE
With boxy venues popping up everywhere,
shipping-container chic has gone global
PHOTOGRAPHS: TOM ACKERMAN; JAVIER DE TIMOTEO;

RYAN SOUTHERN PHOTOGRAPHY; SHUTTERSTOCK
ANTWERP
hen we rst broke news of a portable holiday

home in a shipping container in New
Zealand back in 2008, little did we realise
that the trend for putting hotels, shops
and restaurants in utilitarian metal boxes would gather
such pace. Originally, containers were used as a
budget-friendly, sustainable means of creating cute
concepts a Finnish sauna, say, or a dinky B&B among
historic rooftops of Palma (bookable through Airbnb).
Then a glossier take emerged, with restaurants and
cafs such as Wahaca on Londons South Bank and
the much-Pinned Starbucks drive-thru in Seattle
creating sleek new spaces from battered container
origins. Fashion brands in search of street cred signed
up: Tommy Hilger launched an elaborate, containermade Berlin pop-up, and the shiny Boxpark shopping
mall in Londons Shoreditch opened as a gritty
location for icons of global retail (Nike, The North
Face, Vans and others). New-generation openings
cut a dash somewhere between ethical architecture
and urban glamour. In Melbourne, which has been
a pioneer of the concept for more than a decade, the
Peoples Market (www.peoplesmarket.com.au) caused
a stir on its launch last year with its combination of
artisanal food stalls, craft shops, live music and yoga,
all happening in and around re-purposed containers
in a car park. A similarly urban site in Antwerp is the
setting for Sleeping Around (www.sleepingaround.eu),
a hotel created from spruced-up containers that had
lain neglected in the port area. The container-asaccommodation concept will reach its zenith when
the 36-room Collision Works hotel (www.detroit
collisionworks.com) opens in Detroit next year. These
very 21st-century digs will be funded by Kickstarter,
lled with mid-century furniture, enhanced by a
community events programme and located in one
of the citys most up-and-coming areas.
Word of mouth
Bed & board
uerto Escondido, a favourite spot

for beach-goers in search of surng
and seclusion, will be a little less
hidden from this month, with the opening
of Grupo Habitas Hotel Escondido.
A 15-minute drive from the small town
on Mexicos Pacic coast, the hotels
16 thatched, oceanside bungalows are
laid out around a 50-metre swimming
pool. With the surroundings limited to
sea, sand and cacti, entertainment will
come from the sound-proofed basement,
which is split between a spa and a tiny,
30-person nightclub where guests can
play DJ with a cache of Donna Summer
and Joo Gilberto LPs. We like to be
pioneers, to arrive and make a difference
in a scene, says Habita co-founder
Carlos Couturier, and Puerto Escondido
is Mexicos best-kept secret. +52 555
282 2199; www.hotelescondido.com.
Doubles from about 150 JULIA COOKE
BRAND NEW DIRECTION

THE DESIGN ONE PANTONE
SYNOPSIS: Makers of Pantone colour-matching
system apply their approach to a Brussels hotel, left
THEY SAY: Travel to a Coloric World
WE SAY: Each colorous oor comes in a different
Pantone shade, which you can choose according
to your mood. Of course, colorous and coloric
are not real words, but you wont notice amidst
the riot of hues. www.pantonehotel.com
THE HEALTHY ONE WHOLE FOODS
SYNOPSIS: Organic food retailer reveals plans
for a health resort in Austin, Texas
THEY SAY: Think of it as a centre where people
would go for healthy lifestyle education
WE SAY: Sounds a bit cult-like, with a

dietary emphasis on ethically sourced seeds
conveniently available at a nearby Whole Foods
Market. www.wholefoodsmarket.com
THE LIFESTYLE ONE SOUTHERN LIVING
HOTEL COLLECTION
SYNOPSIS: Yuppie magazine creates a hotel
group in the USAs former Confederate states
THEY SAY: Collection members provide a
powerful, singular voice speaking directly to the
traveller with a uniquely Southern lter
WE SAY: Impressive, high-end hotels, all yearning
for the good ol antebellum days. www.southern
livinghotelcollection.com TOM CHESHIRE
PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK
Some unexpected players are getting involved in the hotel game
Word of mouth
GREAT FORTITUDE
The grand walled outposts of
Rajasthan are the latest World
Heritage Sites. Heres how to tell
your Jaisalmer from your Jaipur
JAIPUR
SAWAI MADHOPUR
Located in the heart of Ranthambore National
Park, this hilltop fortress was the former hunting
HQ for Jaipurs maharajahs.
TRAVEL TIP: This is Indias best tiger-viewing
spot. Book with www.rajasthanwildlife.in.
JAISALMER
The effect of sunset on these sandstone
walls, which contain restaurants, temples and
houses, has led to the structure being dubbed
Sonar Qila (golden fort).
TRAVEL TIP: Camp out in style at The Serai
(www.sujanluxury.com/the-serai) in the nearby
Thar Desert.
KUMBHALGARH
The walls of this 15th-century edice, below,
snake around the brown Aravalli hills for 36km.
TRAVEL TIP: Stay at the romantic Taj Lake Palace
(www.tajhotels.com) in Udaipur, which is two
hours drive away, and come here on a day trip.
CHITTORGARH
Asias largest fort was abandoned in 1568
following a series of battles, including the
death before dishonour downfall of Queen
Padmini in the 14th century.
TRAVEL TIP: Take a rickshaw to the Sadar Bazar
and Rana Sanga markets to pick up colourful,
embroidered jutis (slip-on shoes made of camel
leather). CHARUKESI RAMADURAI
anhattans all-too-adorable West Village is no stranger to the big

screen (see: every rom-com ever made; Sex and the City), but theres
something different about the Coen brothers setting their sights on
the neighbourhood for their next piece of Oscar bait, Inside Llewyn Davis. The
story of a folk singer living in the village in 1961, the lm took Garrett Hedlund,
Justin Timberlake and Carey Mulligan back to a more bohemian NYC, when
starving artists such as Davis (and Bob Dylan and Allen Ginsberg) struggled to
get gigs at hangouts including the Gaslight Caf. It says something about todays
Manhattan that the once-venerated venue is now a cocktail bar, 116, serving
drinks such as chipotle-infused tequila devised by Balthazars bartender. But
nostalgists cant decry just-opened The Marlton (www.marltonhotel.com; doubles
from about 175), a 107-room beat generation favourite that has been restyled by
the man behind The Bowery Hotel. The original wood oors and marble bathrooms
recall a bygone groove and evoke a Parisian htel particulier. EIMEAR LYNCH
Inside Llewyn Davis is released in UK cinemas on 24 January
the trends taking

off and those
running out of fuel
URBAN GONDOLAS
Built for commuters, perfect for sightseeing in London, La Paz and Medelln.
Coming soon to Calgary and Chicago
MONACO
Nicole Kidman as Princess Grace = free advertising for the principality
LONDONS REGENT STREET

US powerhouse J.Crew joins the sartorial line-up this month
SINGLE-ACTIVITY HOLIDAYS
Scott Dunn is now offering ski + beach breaks (think Beaver Creek + Bahamas):
for those who just cant commit
HOUSE SWAPPING
No need to clean up before leaving on holiday. One Fine Stay, just launched in LA
and Paris, means you can stay in someone elses home without returning the favour
INSTA-SNAPS
Enough of your crappy beach seles: raise your game with a pro-quality vista: hero
photographer Martin Parr is the new guide on Cox & Kings Delhi-to-Lucknow tours
ALICE WALKER
PHOTOGRAPHS: AURORA PHOTOS; ALISON ROSA
The citys famous Amber Fort, a remarkable

blend of Hindu and Mughal architecture, is
actually pronounced Ah-mer. Ride up to it on
an elephant with painted toenails.
TRAVEL TIP: Dine like royalty at sumptuous 1135
AD restaurant (www.1135ad.com) inside the fort.
Michael Shake - Fotolia.com
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Short break
SOMEWHERE
FOR THE WEEKEND?
MAP: HANNAH GEORGE PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHIAS HEIDERICH; JULIAN KINGMA
Germanys hippest city is known for its dynamic neighbourhood vibe. But theres a new buzz about
its architecture, too, as historic buildings show off their 21st-century edge. By Rory MacLean
erlin is a place where

men set their dreams in
stone, or at least in brick
and concrete. It is not
an ancient city. It has no Roman
remains like London, no catacombs
like Paris. Its youth always spurred
it towards the future. Yet at the
same time, it forever longed for a
noble past, so has created buildings
to perpetrate its own myth.
For centuries, Schlossplatz was
its seat of power, its Westminster
and St Pauls, its White House,
Smithsonian and Pentagon. On the
square stood palace, cathedral,
armoury and royal gallery. Its
monuments revealed Berliners
ambitions as well as their hubris.
In the schloss, the Hohenzollern
Opposite, clockwise
from top left:
Berlin TV Tower;
caf culture in
Kreuzberg; a
coffee/vintage
shop in Prenzlauer
Berg; the lobby of
Soho House Berlin
princes dened war as destiny,

the last kaiser aspired to rule
Europe by sending a million men
to their deaths and Hitler promised
a 1,000-year Reich. Five years
after his suicide, Communists
levelled the schloss as a hated
symbol of Prussian aggression and
erected in its place an asbestoslled peoples palace. All that now
remains is a vacant lot, awaiting
the resurrection of the palace
(with a must-have shopping centre)
and another wildly ambitious,
rocking, architectural dream.
As with the British Museum,
Karl Friedrich Schinkels neoclassical
Altes Museum (www.smb.museum)
was the rst building created to
exhibit art for public education.
Beauty in itself and for the city,

said Schinkel, whose star student
then advanced the pedagogic
ideal in the Neues Museum (www.
neues-museum.de), located directly
behind the Altes Museum. A
bombed-out ruin for 60 years, it
has now been rebuilt by British
starchitect David Chippereld. His
striking and exciting recreation
can be read like a book, telling
through its original walls, surviving
textural details, all-but-lost classical
frescoes and soaring new spaces
the story of mans ability to create,
destroy and preserve.
Echoes of the 20th centurys
two great totalitarian evils also ring
around monumental Tempelhof
Airport, in Hitlers 1936 Olympic
Short break
sensational collection of sculptures,

ceramics, furniture and architectural
models by Walter Gropius, MoholyNagy, Klee, Kandinsky and others
who ed the country as the Nazis
rose to power, carrying modernism
to the Western world.
As if in celebration of the passing
of those dark days, Sunday brunch
has become a Berlin institution.
Among the favourite venues is
Caf am Neuen See (www.cafeam
neuensee.de; about 25 for two), a
Seventies glass pavilion dropped
Stadium
and, above all, at

the Berlin Wall Memorial (www.
berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de).
Bernauer Strasse witnessed some
of the most tragic scenes when
the city was divided in 1961: East
Berliners jumped from apartment
windows and tunnelled beneath
the street in an attempt to reach
freedom. The memorial preserves
the citys only unadorned stretch
of border fortications, as well as
many haunting artefacts.
Unlike other European capitals,
the radiance of modern Berlin
shines brightest against the darkness
of its past. Once it was the largest
Jewish city in the world. One third

of the 100 richest Prussians were
Jews. By 1945, Hitler had destroyed
Germanys diversity, making it both
poorer and more homogeneous.
The Jewish Museum (www.jmberlin.
de), with Libeskinds twisted and
tortured extension, explores two
millennia of German Jewish history.
But far from being locked in the
past, it looks forward, with childfriendly tours, weekend workshops
and special shows including a
history of Jewish football.
As the spiritual home of Bauhaus,
the Bauhaus-Archive/Museum of
Design (www.bauhaus.de) houses a
Clockwise from
left: a hotel in
the Mitte area; a
shop assistant in
Kreuzberg; artwork
at the Boros
Collection; the
Bierpinsel building;
Bleibtreu hotel
into the Tiergarten park, surrounded

by lush trees, fronting a lake and
ooded with light. It serves fantastic
food in the heart of the old West.
For two or three hours, croissants
and conversation, cereals, eggs,
salmon, sausage and contentment
are washed down with litres of
strong coffee and hot chocolate.
Other dining delights include
trendy Cookies Cream (www.
cookiescream.com; about 60 for
two), the sleek Italian Sale e
Tabacchi (www.sale-e-tabacchi.de;
about 60 for two), Fischers Fritz
(www.schersfritzberlin.com; about
120 for two) for power lunches
and the daring, Michelin-starred
Restaurant Tim Raue (www.timraue.com; about 185 for two).
Dishes here include caviar on
avocado ice cream, pink shrimp

with Chinese rose wine and
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHIAS HEIDERICH; JULIAN KINGMA
The radiance of modern

Berlin shines brightest against the
darkness of the citys past
Short break
Clockwise from this picture: an

S-Bahn platform; the Jewish
Museum; Tempodrom events
space; Soho House Berlin
My Berlin
Jens Casper,
ranked as one of
the worlds most
exciting architects,
has transformed a
World War II bunker
into a fantastic
gallery. Here, he
shares his top tips
for the city
The best way to grasp a little bit of the citys current vibrant
atmosphere is by visiting its art fairs and gallery openings. Slip
into any of the many receptions all over town; most are crowded
public events, usually followed by glittering rauschende parties.
Or book a tour of the Boros Collection where contemporary art
is displayed within the walls of a former air-raid bunker. Due
to its private ownership, the gallery is not open for drop-in visits.
Reservations must be made a couple of weeks in advance on
www.sammlung-boros.de.
Next year, the Johann Knig Gallery (www.johannkoenig.de)
is moving to a spectacular new space in the brutalist church of
St Agnes in Kreuzberg. Im not the only one whos really looking
forward to this major architectural event.
Also try to take in a cultural experience at the Dutch Embassy.
The property was designed by Rem Koolhaas, the director of the
next Venice Architecture Biennale. Its most astonishing feature
is a spiral-shaped corridor that vertically connects all levels of
the building. A few steps from Museum Island is the neo-Gothic
Friedrichswerdersche Kirche, now a museum dedicated to
Schinkel, Berlins rst great architect.
An evening at the Philharmonie (www.berliner-philharmoniker.de)
is also a must. The architecture by Hans Scharoun, the acoustics
and democratic nature of the concert halls, and not least the
Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra itself, under conductor Sir Simon
Rattle, are all world-class and unforgettable. Another memorable
experience is dinner at Kater Holzig (www.katerholzig.de), a
part-event space in a ruined building on the banks of the River
Spree. But hurry: the site is slated for development and by the
end of the year Kater will be gone forever. And for drinks, head to
Bar3 (+49 309 700 5106) at Volksbhne, which has Germanys
best beer, the original Klsch vom Fass, on tap.
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHIAS HEIDERICH
shiso, pudding-tender Andalucian

pigs chin and tissue-thin diamondlabel beef with Madagascan peppers.
Goats-milk ice lollies covered
with white chocolate and fennel
cleanse the palette between courses.
Only the bill is more breathtaking.
Few Berliners admit to needing
sleep, but if one must the
new Waldorf Astoria Berlin (www.
waldorfastoriaberlin.com; doubles
from about 200) has the smartest
rooms, plus the nest views. The
citys cultural elite remain attached
to Soho House Berlin (www.soho
houseberlin.com; doubles from
about 155) and Bleibtreu (www.
bleibtreu.com; doubles from about
70), literally meaning remain
faithful, where international authors
are asked to pen impressions, stories
and poems as keepsakes for future
guests. The boutique Lux 11 (www.
lux-eleven.com; doubles from
about 145) is in a building that
was once used as a telephone
surveillance station by the KGB.
Nowhere is better for avoiding
sleep than Berghain (www.berghain.
de), the sensational dance club and
world capital of techno in a former
East German power station. The bass
beat grips the chest and pounds the
body in waves so powerful that the
second they stop one feels like a dust
mote oating up into the yawning
cavern of the building. All varieties
of sexual fantasies are indulged
here, as they are in most corners of
the city. Berliners from Frederick
the Great to Marlene Dietrich,
Auden to Bowie have never been
coy about their appetites. Berlin
abounds in (legal) sex clubs such as
KitKatClub (www.kitkat club.org)
and pay-as-you-go brothels including
Artemis (www.fkk-artemis.de)
Back at Schlossplatz, debate
rages around building the tilting
Citizens in Motion monument to
commemorate the 1989 revolution
that brought down the wall. But its
co-designer has withdrawn from
the project, citing irreconcilable
differences with her architect partner
and city planners. As ever, Berlin
remains a place where people aspire
to set their dreams in stone.
Rory MacLeans book Berlin:
Imagine a City (Weidenfeld &
Nicolson) will be published next year
99
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Streetwise
VIA VENETO, ROME
Immortalised as the decadent heart of caf society in Fellinis 1960 lm La Dolce Vita, this
WORDS JULIAN ALLASON ILLUSTRATION MASAKO KUBO
HOTEL
Jumeirah Grand
Hotel Via Veneto
Taken over by Jumeirah last year, this hotel,
in two 19th-century palazzos, exudes
glamour and class, with an original art
collection that includes Mir, Picasso and
Dal. Chef Kotaro Noda reframes Roman
dishes with Japanese subtlety: try the
lobster-and-salmon dumplings. No 155
PARK
Villa
Borghese
These 17th-century gardens
at the top of the street have
magnicent city views.
Children adore the Bioparco
zoo and on a sunny day
Casina Valadier (www.casina
valadier.it) is wonderful for
lunch and tea.
FOOTWEAR
Casuccio e Scalera
Vintage and highly collectable shoes
from the daring bootmakers who married
American alligator with Cuban heels.
The latest collection, which includes
handbags and accessories, has witty
designs such as black patent pumps
with leather toecaps. No 189.
+39 06 482 1907
HOTEL
FASHION
Luisa Spagnoli
This century-old company is loved by
twenty- and thirty-something Italians
for its contemporary cut of casual
classics such as Capri pants. The label
is known for its smart angora capes and
has been worn by the Duchess of
Cambridge. No 130. +39 06 4201
1281; www.luisaspagnoli.it
Residenza A
The opening of imaginative small
hotels has added to the areas
renaissance but this seven-room
boutique property is the only
one overlooking via Veneto. Guests
go for the arty, laid-back vibe.
Theres also a spa and, unusually for
Rome, a garage. No 183. +39 06
486 700; www.hotelviaveneto.com.
Doubles from 110
classic boulevard is once again on the pleasure-seekers beat with its stylish hotels and lively bars
RESTAURANT
Restaurant Doney
Politicians and media types take the inside tables and
order Napoleon of Bronte pistachio mousse at this
elegantly renovated restaurant/caf, where pastries are
confected from grande-marque chocolate. Outside
its more about showing off in the sun. No 141.
+39 06 4708 2783; www.restaurantdoney.com
HOTEL
Regina Hotel
Baglioni
Once Queen Margaret of Savoys
residence, this Liberty-style building is
now a design hotel, with Art Deco
touches, original furniture and chic
clientele. Chef Luciano Sartoris
Brunello Lounge & Restaurant is
deliciously seductive. No 72
Abercombie & Kent (+44 845 485
1143; www.abercrombiekent.co.uk)
offers three-night trips to Rome
from 850 per person, including
breakfast, transfers and BA ights
BAR
CAFE
Elle Ristorante Bar
Caf de Paris
The new kid on the boulevard has a theatrical design

that looks like a miniature opera house. Its three
levels, including an Italian brasserie serving involtini
di vitello alluccelletto (thin veal rolled like a bird),
buzz with energy. No 81. +39 06 4201 0164;
www.ellerestaurant.it. About 60 for two
This classic place featured in Fellinis

lm and is a landmark for youngsters
embracing the 1950s/1960s revival. It
was once a Maa-owned hangout but
today is a shady spot to watch Vespas and
sidesaddle-pillion-riding girls whizz by.
No 90. www.cafedeparisroma.eu
OUT OF MY
COMFORT ZONE
THE VICTIM
Daisy Donovan cant even
sing in the shower
without booing herself off
THE CHALLENGE
To compete in the Arab
version of Pop Idol
I SHOUTED ARAB IDOL

at the top of my voice, along with 4,000
other hopefuls. There, in the middle of
a shot panning over the crowd, was me,
the sole non-Arabic participant. It had
been a strange morning in Cairo.
I was making a TV show about TV
around the world. I had been to Brazil
and India and was heading to South
Korea; but at this moment I was in
Egypt, enjoying the phenomenon that
is Arab Idol. Securing access had been
painstaking; nally, theyd agreed to let
me audition. There was one key issue
we had overlooked: I could not sing.
I dont mean that in a self-effacing only
off Broadway way, I mean it in an I get
pitchy during Happy Birthday way.
We tried to think of a tune I could
hold well enough to get to the judges
houses, mostly because one of them
was in Beirut. And when I had destroyed
all the classics, I settled on a song that
destroyed itself without my help: Life

by Desree. With lyrics like I dont want
to see a ghost, its the sight that I fear the
most, Id rather have a piece of toast,
I felt I wasnt setting the bar too high
for myself. Simple, basic, remedial my
style exactly. That was my rst mistake.
My second was outt choice. I went
jazzy. Who wouldnt? I had seen the
English Pop Idol shows and was sure
there would be more gold and glamour
on the Arab one. Turns out that was a bit
of racism on my part, stemming entirely
from the furniture shops in Londons
Edgware Road. The auditionees looked
nicely put together, understated and
MY FIRST MISTAKE WAS

SONG SELECTION.
MY SECOND WAS OUTFIT
CHOICE. I WENT JAZZY
elegant. There was the odd stone-washed

jean and leather jacket, but seeing as
I was in a gold lam top and snakeskin
trousers, I wasnt in a position to judge.
The waiting crowd welcomed me into
their midst with a few sideways glances,
but mostly direct gawping. Once in
the heart of the maelstrom, it felt very
same-same: the practising, the mugging
for camera, the encouraging relatives.
Except here, the overriding impression
was that people wanted their message to
be heard, not their face recognised. They
were singing popular songs, not of the
tonight Im going to get lucky ilk, but
more along the lines of the revolution
is upon us. There was a gravitas and a
common experience that unied the youth
as they waited their turn to be singled out.
That said, pushy parents are pushy
parents wherever you are in the world.
One dad followed us around, shoving his
14-year-old son into our shot. He did
TOURIST
INFORMATION
Moomin Valley
FOR
Arab Idol it takes more than a

breathtaking voice and blindness to
get you through. He hadnt made it.
I was so shocked and indignant
on his behalf that when I went into
the room I wasnt prepared. They
asked me to sing, then stopped
me after one line. Not what I had
expected. The lights in my face
were so bright I could barely even
see them. They asked me to sing
something more affecting. Dear
Lord, I hadnt even got to my
toast and ghost rhyme. I ummd
and errd, laughed nervously, and
then started on the only song I
AS I BEGAN MY FAUX-BROOKLYNESE RAP,

ONE OF THE JUDGES HELD UP HIS HAND AND
SAID, STOP. THIS I HATE
lmed. You could sense that the
programme-makers were building
stories around people. The three
niqabs and I were rmly ignored.
A Kenny G lookalike who sang
Volare was focused on, then a
hijabd girl, and nally a blind boy
with his best friend on guitar, who
reduced the whole room to tears.
As my number got called, I
realised I was shaking with nerves.
Not for any personal ambition,
you understand, just at the idea of
impending, searing mortication.
This was not how a sensible, grown
woman should be spending her
time. How I yearned for John Lewis.
As the blind boy (who I
absentmindedly kept saying was
very blind instead of very good,
which my director panicked at)
went into the judges room before
me, I silently cursed him. But in
have ever been able to remember

all the words to. It is a rap by Monie
Love: My sistah, my sistah, tell me
what the trouble is, Ill try to listen
good and give the best advice that
I can give. The revolutionary songs
echoed hauntingly in my ears as I
proffered my faux Brooklynese.
A judge held up his hand and
said, Stop. This I hate. I tried to ask
if I could come to Beirut, but I was
strong-armed politely out of the
room. I found my fellow failures
weeping uncontrollably outside.
No one was angry, just desperate.
So there it was. I would never
now be Arab Idol. Loath as I was
to give up on the dream, it was
the gold lam I would really miss.
I kept it. So if you see a woman
in gold and snakeskin wandering
around John Lewis, humour me,
and ask me to rap.
WHERE IS IT On the coast of

Finland, just west of the Lonely Mountains
(after a week here, intrepid travellers may
want to continue northwards to Lapland,
home to the Palace of the Snow Queen).
WHAT TO PACK 1 A penknife,
for making bark and reed boats, or carving
secret signs on trees essential skills in
Moomin Valley. 2 Some gifts. Life here
revolves around the family, and presents for
your host will be appreciated: a mouth-organ,
perhaps, a nice ruby, or a buttery net.
WHERE TO STAY Moominhouses
are large, round and very accommodating.
Co-owner Moominmamma will provide
picnics on request, with tummy powder and
an umbrella, just to be on the safe side.
Visitors may want to follow the lead of the
Muskrat, an esteemed philosopher who
believes all journeys are unnecessary and
spends his time in a hammock instead.
WHEN TO GO Midsummer, which
is celebrated with festivities and strawberry
liquor. In November, the inhabitants feast on
pine needles and hibernate until spring.
TRAVEL ADVICE Moomintrolls
(and Snorks, their close relatives) are not to
be confused with Twitter trolls: they tend
to be shy and can be sensitive about their
appearance, so avoid making remarks about
the size of their noses or the fact they dont
wear clothes. Moomin Valley has been ooded
by a tsunami and almost hit by a comet, but
this is unlikely to occur again though a nearby
volcano may cause ash clouds, so check travel
updates before you depart. RICK JORDAN
ILLUSTRATION: MOOMIN CHARACTERS TM
that nudging thing all parents

do. I do it with my ve-year-old to
make her say Thank you for having
me. This father did it to get his
child to burst into song after song.
It was like a fairground attraction.
Which brings me back to me.
So far I had only made it from car
park to holding room. My fellow
auditionees were upping their game
now that we were close to the
judges. I sat next to three niqabd
contestants. If ever there was a
place calling out for The Voice, this
was it. Some people got picked to
sing to the waiting room and were
2013 Crystal Cruises, Inc., Ships registry: The Bahamas.
Where to stay
Reviews of the month in Scotland Beijing London The Alps St Ives

EDITED BY PETER BROWNE
BLUE-SKY
THINKING
Yes theres whisky by the re and plenty of

leather and books. But, says Sophie Dening,
amid the peaks and lochs of the Highlands
youll also nd bracing design and superb food
GLENGORM CASTLE
A Bront-esque pile of harmonious turrets and towers on the north coast

of Mull, ve miles from Tobermory, Glengorm has guest cottages, ats
and B&B rooms that are tweedy, toiley perfection. Owner Tom Nelson
greets visitors at the great front entrance, summoned not by a doorbell
but a hand bell. He grew up here, and lives in the castle with his young
family, energetically overseeing the 5,000-acre estate, its Highland cattle
and Blackface sheep, the accommodation and excellent food shop and
caf. Nine self-catering properties include the smart Steadings, for two,
recently done out with leather sofas and oak and slate ooring, and the
more traditional, whitewashed Sorne cottages on the edge of a forest,
each sleeping six, overlooking the sea and out to Ardnamurchan. Of
the ve B&B rooms in the castle, Ardmore is the prettiest, with a canopy
bed and deep Victorian bathtub with sea view; Mingary and Laorin both
have kingsize beds, and comfortable, classic furnishings. Downstairs,
the panelled library is stocked with masses of reading matter and an open
re. The main hall, mysteriously undraughty, with its own blazing re and
overstuffed sofas, is hung with the familys 20th-century art collection.
Glengorms surrounding moorland, clifftops and beaches are home to
otters, orchids and eagles. Tobermory, Mull; + 44 1688 302321; www.
glengormcastle.co.uk. Self-catering from 350 a week; doubles from 160
Where to stay
MHOR84
The energetic Lewis family who made such
a sexy destination of their remote family
farm, Monachyle Mhor, have taken over
the former Kingshouse Hotel on the A84
and made it unrecognisably cool, airy and
light. The ground oor is now completely
open-plan and rather Scandi-looking, with
a lot of antlers and a pair of wood-burning
stoves. The Library tearoom serves cakes
from Mhor Bread in Callander; the all-day
kitchen produces excellent breakfasts (Big,
Wee or Veggie) until 5pm, as well as a
daily-changing menu that might feature
Scrabster lemon sole or Isle of Mull
langoustines. The seven bedrooms have
been updated with white tongue-andgroove, slatted blinds and neutral carpets.
The bathrooms havent been entirely
rescued from the 1980s but are perfectly
ne considering Mhor84s terric rates.
The bar gets lively at night, with regular
turns from musical friends. Balquhidder,
Lochearnhead, Perthshire; + 44 1877
384646; mhor.net. Doubles from 60
Where to stay
POOL HOUSE
Theres nowhere quite like Pool House. Its location at the head of
Loch Ewe, north of Gairloch and Torridon, gives guests a base in one
of the most beautiful regions in the UK; its extraordinary decor, and
the Harrison familys kindly welcome, set it quite apart. There are four
suites in the main house, all named after World War II naval vessels.
Bramble is the most feminine, painted in Wedgwood blue and furnished
with French antiques; Scharnhorst is opulently cosy, in greens and
golds, its balcony overlooking the river and the loch. HMS Diadem has a
big loch-view sitting room with a coal re for winter, and several models
and prints of the poor old Titanic. Two further ground-oor suites have
private entrances and are furnished with stupendously carved, inlaid
and hand-painted Indian furniture. Softly spoken pater familias Peter
serves good sherry or G&Ts in the sitting room before showing guests
eight maximum into dinner, cooked by his son-in-law John Moir
(puddings are by daughters Mhairi and Elizabeth). The food is simple
but superb: sea bass with mussels and tempura cauliower, or venison
with haggis mash and Drambuie and peppercorn sauce. In the bar,
restored to eccentric Victorian glory, are faux books, stuffed seabirds
and 300 ne whiskies. Ghost stories supplied on request. Poolewe,
Ross-shire; +44 1445 781272; www.pool-house.co.uk. Suites from 285
KILBERRY INN
Brilliant food is the big attraction at Kilberry Inn, a red-roofed,
stone-built restaurant-with-rooms on the Knapdale peninsula,
north of the more famous Kintyre. But regulars arent here just
for the Ormsary Highland beef and hand-dived Sound of Jura
scallops prepared in a tiny kitchen by owner Clare Johnson.
Ace hospitality from her partner David Wilson, who makes
a ne Negroni, keeps them coming back, too. Five spruce,
contemporary-looking bedrooms are named for the islands of
Gigha, Jura, Islay, Arran and Texa; each has a little private patio
with a hot tub, great swathing bathrobes, and beds dressed with
pretty throws and cushions. Homemade ginger biscuits and the
sweetest things to do locally scrapbook feel generous and
personal; and the Full Kilberry breakfast is a cracker. Golfers can
tee off nearby at Tarbert, Dunaverty and Macrihanish Dunes, or
your hosts will arrange boat trips around the Garvellach islands
and Corryvreckan whirlpool, during which you might spot
dolphins and seals. There are many atmospheric archaeological
sites hereabouts, from the well-trodden Kilmartin Glen and
Dunadd Fort to the tiny and usually deserted Kilmory Chapel, full
of amazing early Christian carvings. Kilberry, Tarbert, Argyllshire;
+44 1880 770223; www.kilberryinn.com. Doubles from 210
THE TORRIDON
The baronial entrance hall of this 1880s hunting lodge is emblazoned with
original Latin dedications to Queen Victoria; its big, comfortable sitting room is
smart yet homely, with dashes of the modern boutique hotel style of the
bedrooms and bathrooms. There are 18 rooms and suites in the lodge itself and
12 simpler rooms in Torridon Inn, a two-minute walk past some of the hotels
livestock. The secluded, self-catering Boat House sits right on the loch. Back in
the main hotel, the best of the public rooms is perhaps the library, small and
snug, with a stuffed buzzard and open re. The views over the loch and towards
Beinn Alligin are absurdly beautiful: go mountain biking, climbing or kayaking;
archery and clay pigeon shooting take place in the grounds. Dining is semiformal (the Inn is pubbier), with white tablecloths and courteously scripted
service. Chef Bruno Birkbeck cooks lamb from Shieldaig, uses Wester Ross
cured salmon, and picks salad and herbs from the kitchen garden. The estate
also has its own chickens, pigs and Highland cattle and, although they dont
shout too loudly about it, works on genuinely sustainable lines. By Achnasheen,
Wester Ross; +44 1445 700300; www.thetorridon.com. Doubles from 190
Where to stay
Bed-hopping with Moby

The superstar DJ and worlds most famous vegan charts his hotel hits for Francesca Babb
AMANGIRI, UTAH
If you can qualify the word unique, this is the most

remarkably unique hotel ever. The closest thing to it is
about 40 miles away. You cant nip out and get a coffee
or a toothbrush. It feels like its on the surface of another
planet. www.amanresorts.com. Doubles from about 705
FASANO,
RIO DE JANEIRO
Rio is physically the most
beautiful city in the world. You
have to go to Tijuca forest,
right in the middle, which has
monkeys and tropical birds.
Fasano is in Ipanema; you walk
onto your balcony and one of
the loveliest beaches is there
in front of you. www.fasano.
com.br. Doubles from about 520
I mean this in the best possible way:

the Augustine feels like the least rock
n roll spot on earth. Its a 13thcentury monastery thats been converted
into a really nice hotel, but it still feels
like a monastery. Its very calm and
austere, and a great place to sit and be
contemplative. www.theaugustine.com.
Doubles from about 260
HOTEL DE RUSSIE, ROME
Im not a fan of ostentation;

when I go to the Bellagio in Las
Vegas it gives me hives
After 23 years of touring, I dont see

hotels as places to party but as places
to recharge. This one is like a 15thcentury palace. The location is perfect:
you can walk to the Vatican and the
Spanish Steps. But once youre through
the front door its incredibly quiet. www.
hotelderussie.it. Doubles from about 615
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SEATTLE
Its very understated here, with an almost

mid-century, Scandinavian aesthetic. The rooms
that face the water have panoramic views and
you can see weather systems coming in from the
horizon. Its really inspiring. www.fourseasons.
com/seattle. Doubles from about 220
NO THANKS!
h cigarette smoke,
Rooms that are lled wit
suite next to you
or when the people in the
ty until 5am and
par
hno
are having a crazy tec
sleep in a nightclub.
it feels like youre trying to
Mobys new album Innocents is out now on the Little Idiot record label (www.moby.com)
PHOTOGRAPHS: BENJAMIN BENSCHNEIDER; OLIVER PILCHER; POLARIS/EYEVINE
THE AUGUSTINE HOTEL, PRAGUE
ROOM
SERVICE
Beijing
As Chinas plans to land a probe on the moon come to
Character
Location
Set to
open
towards
the end of 2013,
The Temple
Hotel (www.
thetemplehotel.
com) is in
the grounds of
a wing-tipped,
400-yearold Buddhist
temple adjacent
to the popular
Temple
Restaurant
Beijing. Three
of the 10
stylish rooms
are fashioned
from former
monks cells
Talk
of the
town
Look
Crowd
RAFFLES BEIJING
THE OPPOSITE HOUSE
www.raffles.com/beijing
www.theoppositehouse.com
Occupies a wing of the vast Beijing

Hotel, which opened in 1920 on
the capitals main Dongchangan
Jie thoroughfare, near to
the Forbidden City
Early 20th-century French classicism
with oriental detailing. The colonnaded
faade opens into a grand marble lobby
reminiscent of a chateau drawing
room, with chandeliers, hand-knotted
rugs and antique furniture
A photo exhibition in the
Writers Bar showcases the VIPs
who have visited, from
Chairman Mao to de Gaulle
In the heart of Sanlitun shopping

and nightlife district, within
walking distance of Beijings
hottest bars and restaurants,
including Duck de Chine
A lime-green glass cube designed by
Japanese architect Kengo Kuma.
Contemporary interiors have been
fused with traditional Chinese
elements such as the palatial,
courtyard-style lobby
An eclectic crowd of fantastically
stylish Chinese soap and pop
stars, plus Victoria Beckham and
other well-heeled Westerners
Rooms
The 171 rooms and suites evoke the

sensibilities of early-20th-century
travellers to the Orient, with Art
Nouveau mirrors and rosewood chests
offset by patterned Chinese rugs
Bathrooms some with deep oak

bathtubs are connected by sliding
glass doors in the 98 rooms, which
have blond-wood oors, dark slate
walls and cream fabrics
Eating &
drinking
A pre-dinner Beijing Sling in the Writers

Bar can be paired with light bites such as
crispy baked crab claw. Jaan serves
modern French food, such as grilled duck
foie gras with mango
After a Martini with local hipsters on the

terrace at Mesh, head downstairs to
Sureo, with its burnt-orange chairs and
polished wood oors, for a lobster salad
or wood-red pizza
Best thing
The Personality Suites, named after

guests including Henri Cartier-Bresson
and George Bernard Shaw
Its central location makes this a great

base for getting around Beijings widely
dispersed historic attractions
The prime location means it attracts

large tour groups and it can feel
overrun in the summer peak season
The fashion-conscious minimalism

of the rooms may be a little too clinical
for some
Worst thing
Price
Boutique
fruition, its capital city is busy rolling out rooms t for a new space age. By Gary Bowerman
Business
Good value
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL BEIJING
HOTEL ECLAT BEIJING
EAST BEIJING
www.fourseasons.com/beijing
www.eclathotels.com/beijing
www.east-beijing.com
A 27-oor tower sandwiched between

the Yansha business and diplomatic
district home to company HQs and the
Swiss and Australian embassies and the
east gate of leafy Chaoyang Park
An eye-catching, glass quarterpyramid within the new Parkview

Green FangCaoDi retail centre in
Beijings central business district,
with views over Ritan Park
At the new Indigo retail and office centre

on the capitals outer ring road, near the
trendy 798 District with its art and
photography galleries and studios
Contemporary art is a trend in

Beijing hotels, and here the lobby and
lounges feature works by global and
Chinese artists, such as Jin Fengs giant
copper installation inspired by
Tang-dynasty calligraphy
The museum-style atrium and hotel

corridors feature two bronze doors
from Londons Battersea Power
Station, giant colour photos of Beijing
buildings by Wang Guofeng and
neon-lit Chinese moon gates
Described as a business-leisure
hybrid, the hotels atmosphere is casual
but serious with contemporary
embellishments such as iPod touch
in-room controls, white leather
furniture and free WiFi throughout
Tends towards business travellers on

weekdays, with Chinese citybreakers, Sunday brunchers and
honeymooners over weekends
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY
Contemporary
A vibrant mix of art collectors and

acionados. Stella McCartney
launched her Beijing agship store
with a fashion show here
A mix of tablet-carrying, brandindifferent business travellers,

design-curious holidaymakers, and art
dealers seeking a base near the 798
The 313 comfortable if

unspectacular rooms, including 67
suites, balance mustard and blueberry
tones with grey fabric. The Imperial
Suite takes up the entire 27th oor
There are 100 extravagant

rooms done out in dark leather
and cream Korean marble, with
Timothy Oulton travel chests
and Panasonic massage chairs
The Chinoiserie-chic dining room at Cai

Yi Xuan serves highly stylised
Cantonese dishes such as deep-fried
crab shell lled with crabmeat and onion,
plus regional Chinese specialities
Theres no restaurant, but the Lobby

Lounge serves breakfast, drinks and
canaps. In the Parkview Green complex
options include Opera Bombana, from
star chef Umberto Bombana
The hotel seems to accept that guests

prefer eating out, so there are only two
options: Hagaki for Californianinuenced Japanese cuisine, and the
industrial-edged Xian cocktail lounge
Exemplary service and the sumptuous

spa with its traditional Chinese
medicine master and treatments
The fabulous art collection includes

sculptures and paintings by Dal,
Warhol, Matisse and Gao Xiaowu
The combination of design-led

air and office-away-from-home
functionality
The classically decorated bedrooms lack

the thrill factor found in the art-inspired
lobby and exotic Chinese motifs in the spa
Its not very family-friendly (and some of

the themes and content of the art
exhibits are denitely adult-only)
Its a taxi ride from Tiananmen Square

and the bars and restaurants of Sanlitun
and traffic can be heavy
Styled in off-white tints with

colourful garden murals above
the bed, the 369 rooms
(including 23 suites) have marble
bathrooms with Elemis products
Where to stay
UK
&
IRELAND
ESCAPES
HIGH CHURCH
THE WEEKENDER
The Tide House, Cornwall

WHAT IS IT? The oldest hotel in St Ives,
its been standing since 1540 but has

recently undergone a dramatic facelift.
Now a small but stylishly formed coastal
home-from-home, its chalky palette and
mass of granite, linen and sisal keep it
rmly in Cornish territory.
BEHIND THE SCENES Suzy Faireld
and her husband David fell for the
hotel in 2011, despite the red carpets,
low ceilings and damp patches. They
promptly upped sticks from London and
moved their family of six to the house
opposite to oversee its transformation.
With the eye of a seasoned interior
designer, Suzy has ooded the space
with light and everything is comfortable
and extremely stylish.
SLEEP There are six bedrooms, all
named after lighthouses in southwest Cornwall, each distinct but
none feeling like a short straw. Bleached
nautical stripes, ticking linens, shuttered
bathroom windows and expanses of
taupe and blue play to the coastal tune.
Couples should bag the penthouse,
Godrevy. The gargantuan bath and
private terrace both give a seagulls view
of the St Ives rooftops. Families will like
Longships and Lizard, with mezzanine
levels and twin beds for the kids.
EAT The brownies on arrival set the bar
high and, following suit, breakfast is
lavish: fresh and largely local (organic
bacon with thyme-roasted tomatoes)
with great coffee, its served in an airy
dining room that opens onto a pretty

courtyard. Theres no restaurant, but if
you hire the entire house a chef can
be brought in. There are Teapigs teas
and coffee in the rooms, and a fridge
containing milk and bottled water is
tucked into the hallway.
WHO GOES THERE? Couples (stargazing
as well as careworn) happily kick back
at the honesty bar and thumb through
magazines in the grown-ups drawing
room; young families traipse in from
the beaches at dusk and retire for a hot
bath. The Den is a great soundproof
hideaway for early risers, crammed with
toys and games. Even at capacity theres
no cluttering of hallways.
The gargantuan bath gives a

seagulls view of the rooftops
WHATS THERE TO DO? This is a bolthole
designed for downtime, so expect long

afternoons reading papers in the deep
linen sofas and overowing jugs of Pimms
in the courtyard. Quayside is just a short
stagger downhill, numerous galleries line
the surrounding streets and Tate St Ives
is a ve-minute (albeit hilly) walk away.
WE LIKE The attention to detail: its
oh-so-carefully curated.
WE DONT LIKE Without a restaurant
families are a little restricted, although
local babysitters can be arranged.
THE PRICE Doubles from 115, including
breakfast. LYDIA GARD
THE TIDE HOUSE, SKIDDEN HILL, ST IVES, CORNWALL

(+44 1736 791803; WWW.THETIDEHOUSE.CO.UK)
Jim Gilmore, James Glasson,

Adolfo Cambiaso... Fina Jurado can
reel off a list of regulars at her former
restaurant, Gaudis, in Midhurst, West
Sussex, that sounds like a whos who
of polo. When husband Jac decided
to retire, Jurado opted for a brave new
project. Gaudis has been renamed
The Church House, an extension has
brought light into ancient nooks and,
upstairs, in ve exquisite bedrooms,
antiques are offset against modern
hues. The whole house can be booked
for catered exclusive use. Polo players
are no longer guaranteed, but glamour
on a stick is standard. Doubles from
140; www.churchhousemidhurst.com
THE FULL ENGLISH

According to Polly, Viscountess Coke,
it was rumoured The Victoria at
Holkham was, during its last makeover,
to become a curry house. This arose
from a load of furnishings arriving
from India, with which designer Miv
Watts created what instantly became
Norfolks most happening hangout.
Now the 10-bedroom hotel, on this
historic shooting estate, has executed
a volte-face into plain English.
Tweeds will go a tad better than kilim
slippers in the newly spruced Vic,
and what better season to tuck into
game pie? Doubles from 120;
www.holkham.co.uk/victoria
501
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Where to stay
Hotel
condential
Last year it was souped-up chalets; now its the turn of ski-in, ski-out hotels. By Issy von Simson
VERBIER It seems only right that W Hotels chose Switzerlands most
high-octane party resort for its rst ski property. The groovy W Verbier
opens in December, right at the bottom of the Medran lift. Book your stay
through Camel Snow and secure its co-founder, Rory Hoddell, for a day.
We can nd the best snow, he says, have a late lunch at Carrefour, then nish with a run
down to Le Rouge for aprs. www.wverbier.com; www.camelsnow.com. Doubles from about 555
COURCHEVEL The Oetker
Collections Philippe Perd is
particularly taken with the
location of its latest opening,
LApoge, in the Jardin Alpin at 1850: We have phenomenal views over the whole
village, better than any other hotel, and huge windows that look down the valley, he
says. The standard is set high with interiors by India Mahdavi, a guests-only ski lift and
Yannick Franques in the kitchen. www.lapogeecourchevel.com. Doubles from about 770
ANDERMATT It served as an army base during the war and ew under-theradar for decades. But this dozy ski resort is waking up due to a billion-dollar
development just outside the chocolate-boxy village. First up is The Chedi
Andermatt, an Asian-Alpine crossbreed with timber cladding and a Japanese
restaurant, although the hotel is totally integrated with the
area, right down to
the type of roof, promises the designer Jean-Michel Gathy.
If you squint, you
wont even see it. www.thechedi-andermatt.com. Doubles
from about 555
HOTEL ROOMS UNDER 150
The Nadler Soho LONDON

Love it or hate it, the star-studded bronze statue of Selene certainly makes
an indelible rst impression. Prominently displayed above the entrance,
she gazes directly down little Great Chapel Street, past the lesbian bar
Candy, to Soho Square. Perhaps no nocturnal goddess has been so well
placed. The hotel is very much a family affair: owner Robert Nadlers
wife Clarissa is in charge of the simple yet effective design (rich shades
of chocolate, caramel and cream) and stepson Ron Diennet supplies
the black-and-white brushstroke paintings. To be frank, the rooms under
150 are a snug squeeze for two people, but all price brackets get you a
little kitchen and much bigger bathrooms than you would expect. There
are no public spaces other than reception but the sparky team
of local ambassadors can get guests into no-reservations restaurants
Burger & Lobster, Polpo and Spuntino, even members club Milk & Honey.
Handily, theres also a late checkout (12 noon) available. HAZEL LUBBOCK
00 44 20 7734 4700; www.thenadler.com. Doubles from 145
You wish? You can.

(And as for guaranteeing your make and model, we can.)
Prestige Collection
Whether its for a business trip, a family holiday, or you just want to treat
yourself for a weekend, the Hertz Prestige Collection offers a choice of
top marques including Audi and Mercedes.
When you rent one, we guarantee the make and model you book will be
ready and waiting for you. Putting you in the driving seat in no time.
Visit hertz.co.uk to book yours.
A letter fro m
Novelist Graeme Simsion walks tall in his working-class Fitzroy neighbourhood, but in bohemian
South Yarra he nds himself oored by a six-year-old girl. lllustration by David McConochie
ast week, my wife and I

made the six-kilometre
journey across the Yarra
River from Fitzroy, where
we have lived for the past 24 years,
to South Yarra. We have probably
been to London more often. Not
that South Yarra doesnt have its
attractions: its a prosperous inner
suburb of Melbourne, with cafs,
ne shopping and excellent dining.
But the river divides Melbourne
culturally as well as geographically.
Fitzroy was Melbournes rst
suburb, solidly working class. Our
house did duty as a brothel, and the
dead-end in the back lane once
helped police apprehend eeing
customers. Now, the neighbourhood
hosts gourmet food shops, funky
boutiques and some of the citys
best bars, but a meal at a street
table is still likely to be interrupted
by a beggar, and theres a queue
for the soup kitchen. A lot happens
on the street. Our kids tell the story
of a coachload of girls arriving on
a private-school excursion to see
how the other half lived. Some were
too frightened to leave the bus.
My own reason for crossing the
river was an invitation to take part
in an evening of storytelling. We
could have taken the car, but at
peak hour or when there is a game
at the Melbourne Cricket Ground,
Punt Road slows to a standstill.
The half-empty No 86 tram
lived up to its reputation. A drunk
couple shouted abuse at each
other and at anyone who made
eye contact with them, or with
the baby sharing its pram with a
collection of grocery bags. Veterans
of the route, we escaped their
notice. In the city, we transferred
to the No 8 tram, crammed with
commuters politely jostling to

swipe their transit cards.
Id planned to visit the local
bookstore, but it had gone. I couldnt
remember which shop it had been,
among all the big windows with
merchandise artfully displayed,
but the likeliest replacement was
a shop selling upmarket luggage.
I dont know anyone who owns
upmarket luggage.
The hotel was on the main street.
In my imagination, as I practised
my story, it had been a dim, clubby
room, with leather armchairs for
the speakers, like one of our local
music venues. The reality was more
bright deli than Irish pub, but it was
full and there was a positive buzz.
Then the convener a
conservatively dressed woman of
read a selection of passages. She

had barely started when the girl,
sitting between us, interrupted.
Mummy, I want to go home.
Sshh Mummys reading.
But
On the second interruption,
I got the girls attention and showed
her the illusion with the two
bent thumbs. She was fascinated.
She cant have had any uncles. I
demonstrated how she could do it
herself. I lost track of the reading,
which was pretty demanding, and I
suspected it wasnt only the girl I was
distracting. But I felt for the author,
trying to juggle single motherhood,
writing, and probably a day job.
Perhaps she had crossed town, too.
Fifteen minutes in, without
warning, the girl jumped up and ran
The No 86 tram lived up to its reputation. A drunk couple

shouted abuse at anyone who made eye contact with
them, or with the baby sharing its pram with groceries
perhaps 45 appeared and led
me to the function room where
the event would take place. A long
table, 18 chairs, a whiteboard. The
crowd in the dining room had
nothing to do with us.
More neat, middle-aged women
arrived, some with books to sign.
Several had the UK edition; they
must have saved a few dollars
buying online. Their canniness
might explain the demise of the
bookstore. A single male, in a suit,
no book, was not forthcoming
when I tried to make conversation.
There was another author a
woman in her late thirties, a little
bohemian-looking with a girl
aged about six in tow. She went
rst, announcing that she would
out of the room. Mum kept reading.

It seemed that I was now in loco
parentis, so I headed after her.
I need to go to the bathroom.
Jesus. Not with me she wasnt.
Then the door opened again.
It was Mr Suit. Dad.
My story went ne. I gathered
the listeners forward and sat on a
ledge. They listened attentively and
laughed at the right places. They
seemed like nice enough people.
The girl slept on the oor beside
her mothers chair. I like to think
that for 20 minutes or so, we all
forgot where we were.
Graeme Simsions new novel,
The Rosie Project, is published
by Michael Joseph at 12.99
EXPLORE.
DREAM.
DISCOVER.
What is it that makes Silversea the benchmark of luxury cruising? The cuisines by Relais & Chteaux?
The all-inclusive luxury? The sumptuous suites with Ferragamo soaps... the butler who anticipates your every need?
Or perhaps it is Silverseas European heritage that so appeals to well-travelled, international guests.
Aboard our ships you can explore secluded harbours less touched by time and tourists.
Insider access in the worlds great cities. Bespoke tours so that you can roam where you please.
Hardly what you would expect on an ordinary cruise. But then this is small-ship cruising. And we are Silversea.
For more information or to book, please call Silversea on 0845 835 0069, visit www.silversea.com or contact your local travel agent.
Trend alert
Back-to-the-future ski
Above, an original copy

of Modes et Travaux from
December 1935, with
the cover illustrated
by Leon Benigni. Ski
memorabilia available
at www.something
simplygorgeous.co.uk
Ski jacket with calfskin,
2,940; trousers,
1,620; calfskin snow
boots, 920, all Herms
(www.hermes.com)
Shop watch
Aesop
Im an Aesop junkie and make time to
nd its stores in every city I can, each
one in keeping with its design-oriented
neighbourhood. In Sydney I picked up
the Violet Leaf Hair Balm; in Hong Kong
I discovered the Resurrection Rinse-free
Hand Wash; in Paris I was overwhelmed
and left with nothing. And the new shop
in Covent Garden introduced me to the
Breathless Body Oil. Aesop Marylebone
has just opened, Ill see you there.
erms can do no
wrong when it comes to
style and this months launch of
a retro ski line proves my point.
But you need to be a pro skier to
get away with the sleek calfskin
trousers and cashmere roll-necks,
or at least try to avoid the amateurs
head-plant in the snow. Better still,
just get dressed and go straight for
lunch. Pringle of Scotland has also
delved into its past and, in honour
of the labels relationship with the
late Grace Kelly, has designed
namesake jumpers that will make a
bold statement on the slopes. Id
also recommend Eddie Harrops
travel bags to pack your gear in:
a suitcase is the rst giveaway that
youre a mountain novice.
Suede Roundel bags,

375, Eddie Harrop
(www.eddieharrop.com)
Cashmere
jumper, 695,
Pringle of Scotland
(www.pringle
scotland.com)
Im back from... the New Forest

The Pig is a country-house hotel big enough to
feel special, yet small enough to dream it could
one day be your own. We drank Hendricks gin
and tonics by the outdoor replace, then
wandered through the kitchen gardens,
chatting to the gardeners as they piled
rhubarb and mint into wheelbarrows. And we met
the hotels pot-bellied pigs. We made
an early start to Herb House Spa at Lime Wood
just down the road, where we tried the messy
but feelgood mud-hut treatment. Lunch on
the terrace was the perfect end: Hampshire ham
and vine tomatoes from Angela Hartnetts Raw
& Cured menu. Ive already booked to go back.
Buzz words Chasing the sun
Channel... the catnap
I need to catch up on some sleep

and a series of long-haul ights ahead
will be the best opportunity to do
this. I intend to snooze in style with a
little help from Charlotte Olympias
silk eye mask and slippers (395 for
the set, www.charlotteolympia.com)
and Fausts Asleep Potion (5 for the
set, www.faustspotions.com). They
call it a restorative mix of vitamins,
milkthistle and electrolytes, I think it
feels like Botox for the mind.
Inspired by...
Heart-shaped Makepeace Island, upstream from Noosa on Australias
Sunshine Coast. Richard Bransons 11-bedroom villa is introducing
individual room bookings next month alongside private hire.
www.makepeaceisland.com
Also refer to...

Tom Fords bronzing gel for men: new this month, its the rst
tanning product just for the boys, although theres no harm in sharing.
Lobster iPhone case from Tory Burch: you cant help but think of
a holiday when this is attached to your phone.
Clickini: the best website for swimwear whatever the season and one
of the few stockists of Tomas Maier and Chlo.
Cheval Blanc: opening in the Maldives soon. If the Courchevel hotel
is anything to go by it will be sublime, as will the Guerlain spa.
I PRESENT TO YOU...
cant remember how old I was when

owers rst became important to me
but I know I was still at school. My dad,
a gardener, came home from work excited by a
eld of daisies. He hurried my mum and the rest of
us kids out to have a look; it was incredible, thousands
of owers as far as the eye could see. Since then, Ive
wondered how it would be possible to recreate that moment for
others to enjoy. CMy ideas come directly from nature. We have
beautiful skies in England. Maybe its the shorter days and early
sunsets, but at this time of year I notice the sky. CLesotho, South
Africa, Australia, Scotland, Norway and Thailand are all places that
have opened up my eyes to incredible natural environments.But my
most inspiring destination was Uganda. It is overowing with plants
growing like wild everywhere, such as bougainvillaea, bananas and coffee. C Im most proud of an
installation I made at the Royal Opera House in London, with 7,000 owers of more than 40 varieties
hanging from the ceiling to the oor on copper wire particularly as we only had 16 hours to do it.
C This autumn Im creating an installation atLa Monnaie opera house, Brussels. My work is at its most
powerful in an urban environment and Im passionate about bringing nature into unnatural places.
CThe most humbling jobs are community projects. Ive run Land Art projects for the National Trust,
integrating primary-school pupils with children who have learning difficulties. www.rebeccalouiselaw.com
ILLUSTRATION: HANNAH GEORGE. PHOTOGRAPHS: WING CHAN; NICOLA TREE; RACHEL WARNE
Rebecca Louise Law

Floral artist
I rst discovered her work at the launch
of Jo Malones Peony and Blush Suede
fragrance, and since then, have conjured
up a multitude of imaginary events she
could dress in owers for me
hotel experience in Mauritius

THE ESSENCE OF SHEER LUXURY
If youre looking for a totally indulgent tropical hideaway, where stunning
architectural design meets relaxed luxury, Constance Le Prince Maurice is the
place to head. Elegant and striking, this place will seduce you from the moment
you arrive.
Begin the U-experience: call (230) 402 2772/73 or visit us at www.constancehotels.com
Style file
THIS MONTH
We sniff out the independent, rogue perfumers (guess

which ones an air-force colonel?) whove found weird and wonderful new
ways to cook up sensational smells. By Issy von Simson
Norne extrait
by Slumberhouse
The lowdown Founder Josh Lobb, complete with Portlandmandatory facial hair, is by his own admission a wholly
untrained, unqualied perfumer. The inspiration Lobb is
often tempted away from his hipster hometown and into the
forests, foraging for the woody whiffs (fern, lichen, moss and
hemlock) that turned into Norne. Where to wear it Swinging
in a hammock at Hotel Daniel (www.hoteldaniel.com) in
Vienna. What to say Whos up for collecting honey from
the bees in the urban garden? What not to say Youve got
strudel in your beard. 95 at www.roullierwhite.com
Evening Rose
eau de parfum
by Aerin
The lowdown Turbo-stylish Aerin Lauder, granddaughter of Este, is on

a roll. First a make-up range, then an at-home collection, with gilt-edged
shells and $1,000 salad bowls, and now shes dabbling in the olfactory
world. The inspiration Historically the Lauder women love the smell of
sweet rose, but Aerin has added a dash of cognac for a sophisticated spin.
Where to wear it The terrically smart Topping
Rose House (www.toppingrosehouse.com)
in Bridgehampton, sporting crisp whites, pristine
plimsoles and with a tennis racket under your arm.
What to say Well, isnt this just tony?
What not to say What times the jitney?
85 at Harrods and Selfridges
Le Jasmin by
Miller Harris
Perfumers Library
The lowdown After 20 years of holding
countless vials up to her nose, Lyn Harris
gives us ve of her very best scents. The
inspiration The heady smell of Moroccan
jasmine in late afternoon. Where to wear it
At the rooftop bar of Hotel LIglesia (www.
liglesia. com) in El Jadida. What to say I never
get bored of tagines. What not to say Whys the Wi-Fi
so slow? 195 at www.millerharris.com
Custom Blend Box

by The 7 Virtues
The lowdown Barb Stegemann buys essential oils from troubled regions to
help pump money back into their economies. The inspiration She started
with war-torn Afghanistan (orange blossom and rose), and blended Israeli
grapefruit with Iranian lime and basil in her latest concoction. Where to
wear it Somewhere virtuous. Try the Axel Hotel
Guldsmeden (www.hotelguldsmeden.dk) in
Copenhagen, named Considerate International
Hotel of the Year 2013 for its exceptionally ecofriendly attitude. And the rooms are lovely, too.
What to say Where is the box to tick for Gift
Aid? What not to say Ill need my towels and
sheets changed every day. 66 at Selfridges
Counter culture
CHAIN REACTION
Clockwise from above: Ultimate Lift rming crme, 40, OLEHENRIKSEN (www.feelunique.com); Neck Cream with botanical extracts,
97.50, Sisley (www.johnlewis.com); Extra-Firming Neck Anti-wrinkle rejuvenating cream, 44, Clarins (www.clarins.co.uk);
Anti-aging neck cream, 130, La Prairie (www.selfridges.co.uk)
ILLUSTRATION: MATTHEW BILLINGTON
Zap the signs of ageing with these rm-favourite neck creams. By Thea Darricotte
JAMAICA
SAINT LUCIA
ANTIGUA
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See your local travel agent
Man on a mission
EDITED BY
DAVID ANNAND
AUTUMNAL FRAGRANCES
Poets and
weekend neurs
might be tempted by
Byredos Baudelaire
eau de parfum, a suitably

peppery scent with notes
of patchouli and leather.
Its ideal for wearing
while strolling along the
streets of Paris or, as
Oscar Wilde put it, letting
yourself be lured into
long spells of senseless
and sensual ease.
www.byredo.com, 88
For a nation of
men accustomed
to smelling of John Player
Specials and Lynx Atlantis,
the metrosexual revolution
was a shock for us Brits.
But where Beckham goes,
we follow, and now half the
nation needs two or three
of those little plastic bags
at the airport. If youre
bound for the Orient, you
could do worse than ll

yours with the spicy
aromas of Comme Des
Garons 2 Man. www.
doverstreetmarket.com, 50
Adventurers of
a more active
persuasion might be better
off splashing out on Pradas
Luna Rossa, a citrussy

concoction with top
notes of bitter orange
and lavender and redolent
of the sea. Perfect for
everyone from catamaran
crewmen to Sunday
seadogs, and anyone
who doesnt look
ridiculous in shorts.
www.prada.com, 44.50
DO IT IN STYLE
Archipelago ahoy
Top British yachtsman Alex Thomson steers through
30,000 islands on a race from Stockholm to Gotland
d done the Round Gotland sailing contest before, but this was my rst time
with the race starting in the middle of Stockholm. It was like nothing else Ive ever
experienced: thousands of spectators, rocks everywhere, ferries on the water,
helicopters in the sky, and an archipelago of 30,000 islands. More than 300
boats, ranging from 30ft-long to 100ft, took part, with a handicap system resulting
in us competing against boats that were half the size of ours. We raced the rst 30 or
40 miles through the archipelago, sometimes tacking through gaps that were just
60 metres wide only three times the length of the boat. The scenery was incredibly
beautiful and there were people everywhere along the shoreline and
in boats cheering us on. Having just done a solo round-the-world
trip, it was nice to have ve people on board, sleeping on threehourly rotations. You have to be t because you do a lot of tacking
and gybing in this kind of fast-paced race. Our top speed was 18
knots, about 20mph, which is fast over the water. As we went round
the last gate we hit an unchartered rock. Fortunately we were only
going about 4.5 knots, but the noise was loud enough to put the
wind up our two onboard guests. It took us 46 hours to nish.
We were the rst boat in our section over the line but only
came 24th after the handicap was taken into account. One of
the guys that beat us nished 24 hours after we did! THE BOOK
The Sailor Who Fell from Grace with the Sea by Yukio Mishima.
THE DOWNLOAD Sloop John B by The Beach Boys
GET THE LOOK THE AVIATOR
From left: leather jacket, 1,140, Schott (www.mrporter.com); tailored-t shirt, 95, Paul Smith Jeans (www.paulsmith.com); cotton
trousers, 208, Incotex (www.matchesfashion.com); boots, 445, Grenson (www.grenson.com)
PHOTOGRAPHS: OSKAR KIHLBORG; THE KOBAL COLLECTION
Leather up like Leonardo DiCaprio in full ight
18K gold
SOUTHAMPTON LAKE TEGERNSEE SYLT PALM BEACH

and all my international jewelers at: www.tamaracomolli.com
Health trip
THIS MONTH
In a secluded corner of eastern India this little retreat

is a spa secret, with shabby-chic design, a community spirit and elemental
treatments that really allow you to let go. Edited by Daisy Finer
underground aquifer, sunbeams heat
your shower and theres an organic
farm with cows and chickens.
Dune Eco Village, Pondicherry, INDIA

he Indian spa scene has
gone glossy. Hotels such as
Ananda in the Himalayas have put
a cushy spin on oily, hard-bed
Ayurveda (nothing ashram-grotty
here, instead treatments on tap,
Merlot should you wish and gigantic
daybeds by the pool). Meanwhile,
Oberoi Hotels, with sleek marble
oors and the ever-present scent
of lemongrass, offer pedicures
designed by French podiatrist
Bastien Gonzalez and Oreo cookies
in your minibar. And while Taj, the
other big brand in this neck of the
woods, prides itself on keeping
things natural and authentic, its Jiva
spas are often either a basement
afterthought or attached to a hotel
as big as a ship. So where should
you head for a more back-to-basics
Indian spa experience? One that
wont freak you out with rats or lack
of loo roll, but still retains a quiet
sense of discovery and intimate
adventure, as well as a leaning

towards low-key, local, small
and sustainable.
Well, how about Dune Eco
Village, set on a beautiful patch
of the little-touched Coromandel
coast (off the Goan, Rajasthani and
Keralan beaten tracks)? Its 15km
from the kooky, colourful colonial
city of Pondicherry, so you can dip
into town and see the French Quarters
Sri Aurobindo Ashram, and explore
the treasures of Tamil Nadu.
French entrepreneur Dimitri
Kleins creation is probably the most
hush-hush and totally cool, insider
spa secret in the country. In an area
ravaged by the 2004 tsunami, Klein
has constructed 50 charming, quirky
chalets and lodges using materials
salvaged from dismantled old
buildings. Some are Keralan-style,
with gables of pantiles, others are
wooden or brick. Water for drinking
and washing comes from an
A garden room
at Dune Eco
Village on the east
coast of India
ome here to op, and forget about

televisions, kettles or phones.
Life at Dune is stripped-back, but also
forward-thinking in the best possible
giving-back way. Klein has replanted
huge areas of the vanishing dry evergreen
forest, set up a vocational school and
opened a shop selling locally made
leather goods. But all this is achieved
with a lightness of touch that doesnt
feel earnest or preachy. Relax as much
as you like, swim from an empty beach
in the Bay of Bengal, loll by the pool
and eat the best organic, Ayurvedic,
gluten-free food at FUN Food U
Need Restaurant (barbecued mahimahi, quinoa biriyani, panna cotta with
basil). Fruity concoctions and spicy,
scented teas are available at any time.
Steering your clunky Indian bike
over the two kilometres of cinder
tracks and taking part in the twice-daily
yoga or meditation as the sun melts at
6pm, you feel healthy, connected,
rooted back to the source. The breezy
Paradise Spa has specialised treatments
tackling issues from weight loss and
back pain to arthritis and stress. Opt
for indulgent beauty scrubs, rubs and
massages, or try the water therapy:
held oating in a 34C solar-heated
pool, eyes closed, surrender yourself
to the therapist, who presses pressure
points and sends you spinning into
complete weightlessness. Its as close
as youre likely to get to being back in
the womb. Other experiences include
visiting one of Tamil Nadus 3,000
temples and checking out Auroville, a
new-age town with a meditation centre.
Youll also inevitably chat with fellow
guests whove included Lulu Guinness
and Marianne Faithfull. A stay at Dune
reminds you how great dusty toes can
feel. What you get here is a passionate
vision that goes beyond consumerism
or form lling and still leaves you
feeling like a winner. CHARLES PITHER
Greaves India (+44 20 7487 9111;
www.greavesindia.co.uk) offers ve
nights at Dune Eco Village from 1,125
per person, including British Airways
ights, transfers and a visit to Auroville
Tr is now mor to s d do in Abu Dhabi.
SHEIKH ZAYED
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With a diverse golf offering

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Learn more about the UAEs

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All aboard for a tour of

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Enjoy the Blue-agged beaches

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Explore a city built on tradition and inspired by innovation.

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THE EVENT FOR UNFORGETTABLE

LUXURY TRAVEL EXPERIENCES
PRESENTS
THE LUXURY
TRAVEL FAIR
7-10 November 2013
Olympia, London
Be inspired
Learn from our collection of experts,
including TV presenter and adventurer
Simon Reeve, as they share their most
extraordinary travel secrets live in the Meet
the Experts Theatre
with Victorinox.
Be individual
Meet travel specialists face-to-face to
personalise and book your next tailormade adventure.
Be inventive
Whether discovering the magic
of Montenegro, or escaping to the
undiscovered beaches of Mozambique
Immerse yourself into a world of possibilities
when you meet our carefully selected
collection of travel companies.
Two complimentary tickets for every reader*

Begin your next travel experience at
The Luxury Travel Fair
Fair Partners
To claim your tickets, simply book in advance. Call 0871 230 1091
or visit www.luxurytravelfair.com and quote LT7D
* Your tickets are complimentary, however a booking fee of 2.1 0 per ticket applies. This offer is only
available in advance. Maximum 2 tickets per order.
Calls cost 10 pence per minute plus network extras. Advance box office closes 6 November 2013.
Images: Bespoke Brazil, Cox & Kings, Trip Africa and Shutterstock
If you do one thing in
November
PHOTOGRAPH: MARTIN POPE/CAMERA PRESS
Go truffle
hunting
On a pretty hillside in Provence is
Crillon le Brave, a hotel surrounded
by long, regimented lines of olive
trees and vines.The woodland
nearby is teeming with special
green and white oak trees, planted
by expert truffier Eric Jaumard
and his father more than 30 years
ago. This month is the perfect
time to spend a weekend here,
wandering in search of truffles
under a canopy of sun-dappled
leaves.Jaumards dog, Mirette,
guides you through the woods as
he snuffles and snorts for this
most prized fungus.But as well
as truffle hunting, there is much
feasting to be had. On Friday
lunch is served in Jaumards barn
at the foot of Mont Ventoux by
his wife Dominique.There is
usually a roaring re as you tuck
into canaps, huge platters of
bread with truffled scrambled
eggs and pots of crme brle for
pudding.On Saturday youre
taken to Chteau la Nerthe for a
cookery lesson from the head
chef, topped up with glasses of
the famous local wine,
Chteauneuf-du-Pape.Dinner on
Saturday is a ve-course
extravaganza, with dishes such as
roast red mullet with purple
potatoes, tenderloin of veal with
ceps and Brie de Meaux stuffed
with a truffle cream.Never in
your life will you have eaten so
many truffles but this is the
place to do it. Before you leave,
visit the Sunday farmers market in
LIsle-sur-la-Sorgue.The streets
are jammed with stalls selling fruit,
olives, cheese, nougat, honey and
lavender oil.With its pretty
garden, Le Jardin du Quai, in the
same town, is worth a stop for
lunch. ALICE WALKER+33 4 90 65
61 61; www.crillonlebrave.com.
80
With their insider savvy, South AFrican couple Nicola Jackson and David Crookes go straight
to the owners to unlock the doors, explore and photograph the best secret beach houses on
the countrys hottest coast From sleek party pads to cool, hippy shacks
Clockwise from this picture: Dertien

in Paternoster, South Africa; Blikkie
pizzeria; a sherman in Paternoster;
a bedroom at Lagoon House, Cape
Agulhas; the house at sunset; inside
Tientjie, Paternoster. Previous pages,
from left: the terrace of Seagull
Cottage; a beach in Yzerfontein
WEST COAST
TIENTJIE, Paternoster
In Paternoster life has always revolved around either
catching sh or eating it. In the smoky morning light men still
launch wooden boats from the sandy shore, seagulls reel
optimistically in the salt mist and dogs chase waves. When the
gulls and boats return, run down to the beach and bargain for
the ingredients of a seafood supper, or see what will be served
on the plates of the best restaurants that day. Your home is
Tientjie, on the edge of the village, and it used to be a drug den.
The owners, architect Johann Slee and his wife Ren, have
cleverly kept the original features of the house while enhancing
all its best bits: the corrugated-iron roof, exposed beams and
chunky walls layered with blue, sienna and burgundy paint that
hint at its history. Inside, velvet, corduroy and oral cushions
crush together on eclectic chairs; colours clash and textures
vibrate. This is the opposite of kitsch. Tientjie only sleeps two
adults, but if there are more of you, book a neighbouring house,
Dertien, and your group can spill across the street. Johann
and Ren designed both houses so they have the same modern,
honest appeal. Stroll to the Noisy Oyster restaurant and eat
spiced steak tartare, nip out for a pizza at Blikkie just a few
doors down, or sit under dappled shade at Oep ve Koep and
sample Kobus van der Merwes adventurous menu of foraged
sea greens and sensational watermelon and bokkom
(locally salted sh) salad.
two adults, and two small children on a daybed
from about 95 per night
the owner Ren (rene@slee.co.za)
Sleeps
Costs
Book through
SOUTH COAST
LAGOON HOUSE, Cape Agulhas

A lot of people think Cape Town is at the southernmost tip
of Africa, but of course the Atlantic and Indian oceans collide
at Cape Agulhas, south and east along the coast. It is a wild
and windy place of legends and shipwrecks and dreams of
fortunes to be made and lives lost. Ancient mariners faced
their biggest challenge trying to navigate around it on their
way to the Far East, and the treacherous sea has cast shipskeletons ashore for centuries. Lagoon House, which sits on its
own peninsula, was built in the 1880s. The land around it has a
truly wild feel; the sea appears to boil with rage and even on
a quiet day it seems as if you are on the prow of a ship spinning
forward across the globe. The house itself is solid and
innocent-looking, with beautiful old stable doors unlocked
with big, clunky keys. Inside, its basic but delectably raw, with
a high thatched roof built from huge tree boughs; the smell of
wood smoke lingers from more than a century of cooking in
the kitchen replace. Everything is simple and very clean,
with the white bed linen and rolled-up green towels (topped
with a little bar of soap) you nd in all South African National
Parks properties. It makes an honest base for a beach holiday,
with incredible coastal walks through herb-scented foliage,
past historic shell middens and amazing birdlife. Plus, the
lagoon just behind the house has a sandy shore and warm,
clear water to swim in.
eight
www.sanparks.org/parks/agulhas
Sleeps
Costs
Book through
83
Clockwise from this picture: the ocean

view from The Cove, Knysna; the
house at night; the sitting room and
terrace at Casa Sanchia, Dwarskerbos;
a path to the beach near The Cove
EAST COAST
WEST COAST
THE COVE, Knysna
CASA SANCHIA, Dwarskersbos
From this vantage point, high above craggy, rust-coloured

rocks, it feels as if youre hovering over the sea at cloud level.
Below, seabirds nest in impossible places, the massive surf
makes lace patterns in the water and southern right whales
migrate past like eets of peaceful submarines. The buildings
angular lines, stairs that spiral around an internal lift and
innity pool are worthy of a cocktail dress and a pair of
Manolo Blahniks, although theres something pleasingly
decadent about padding barefoot around a slick space like
this. The master bedroom is on a vast mezzanine above the
living area and there are no dividing walls; instead, thick
curtains on a circular track enclose the bed at night with the
kind of restrained glamour seen only in old Bond lms.
The staggered path down to the beach pushes through long
grass and owering fynbos until, after about 20 minutes,
you reach a private cove where the sand is the colour of
cinnamon. It is possible to spend many hours here, happily
sunbathing and rock hopping, without seeing another soul.
The sleepy town of Knysna is 20 minutes drive away. Go
there for the best breakfast at Ile de Pain and a simple
sh lunch of grilled prawns in garlic-and-lemon butter at East
Head Caf, where you watch yachts navigating past the
treacherous Knysna Heads.
eight
from about 1,150 per night
www.perfecthideaways.co.za
The owners found this virtually unknown part of the Western

Cape after taking a wrong turn while on holiday, and its
easy to see why they bought a plot of land the same day. The
extraordinary house they built is a whitewashed seaside home
with a modern African interior that looks almost loft-like.
Outside, it is connected to a 16km-long beach by a wooden
walkway suspended over the dunes. The raw wood, stone,
white walls and muted colours work elegantly with the intense
blue of the sea, the sky and wild greens of the succulents that
miraculously thrive on this coastline. The house has been
designed with an understanding of intense sunlight, so there are
places to hide in different depths of shade: billowing curtains
veil a built-in seating area; circular wicker chairs hide beneath
collapsable canopies; a knotted hammock swings into the sun,
then out. Everything here is effortlessly comfortable for a
remote, quiet escape where whales calve in the shallows and
wildowers bloom magically on sand-dunes.
six
the owner Renee (reneeds@telkomsa.net) or
www.casasanchia.com
Sleeps
Costs
Book through
Sleeps
Costs
Book through
WEST COAST
SEAGULL COTTAGE, Churchhaven

Locals try to undersell Churchhaven, an hours drive north of
Cape Town. They swear blind the wind blows like mad most
85
Clockwise from this picture: the

beach in front of Blue Horizon
in Cape Town; a bedroom and
the exterior of Seagull Cottage,
Churchhaven; Blue Horizons
living room; a bunk and the
sitting room at Seagull Cottage
of the time, and on other days its so hot the tar roads melt.
But take no notice. Its far too beautiful to miss. Seagull Cottage
is part of a community of whitewashed houses surrounded by
the soft, sage greens of the West Coast National Park. The
buildings overlook a tidal lagoon with ne-sand beaches,
resident amingos and water so warm you can wade into its
shallow reaches in winter. Bright-painted boats and gentle waves
make it feel like a remote island retreat, and then an ostrich
lopes into view as a vivid reminder of where you are in the
world. The house is a visual pleasure, as though a magpie has
lled it with much loved things: objects, paintings and mirrors
cluster on walls; little mosaics create details in bathrooms; tiles
are pushed into the plasterwork. Vibrant, contrasting colours are
collected together in ways that dont normally work, but here
pink, orange and turquoise simply reect the amingos, sunsets
and water outside. It is all so easy; the cottage casts a languid spell.
Breakfasts magically turn into long, boozy lunches, followed by
hours lying in the sun reading; long walks are followed by a
swim and the next day progresses in exactly the same way.
10
Sleeps
Costs
Book through
CAPE TOWN
BLUE HORIZON, Llandudno

This place is like a great-looking surfer with a doctorate: its
sexy and clever and right where it should be, on Cape Towns
favourite sundowner beach, Llandudno. The building was
engineered to sit in harmony among the wild olives and willowy
indigenous bush that surround it, and it has genuinely ecofriendly credentials. Grey water drains into the foliage; rainwater
is captured and stored; solar power regulates the temperature
inside. The whole design is super-efcient, with minimalist
interiors that make heroes of the carefully selected architectural
materials. The living space is spread over two levels, with
separate kitchens, decks and pools, so Blue Horizon is great for
multi-generational holidays. When youre in the building, its
ecological intelligence is invisible and what registers is the
dynamic, changing land, sky and seascape outside. Sitting on
the folding church benches on the long decked balcony in front
of the house, your view is of people tanning, surng, laughing
and playing. To join them, follow the private track that leads to
a coastal contour path and then onto the sand below.
six
on application, minimum one week; house swaps considered
Mel Miller (+27 836 29 0836; mel.miller@
telkomsa.net)
Sleeps
Costs
Book through
CAPE TOWN
WATERLINE, Noordhoek
This low-slung, double-storey building behind the gnarled shrubs
and windswept dunes of the widest, longest beach in Cape
Town is understated but alluring. The four uncluttered bedrooms
on the ground oor have outside showers and electric blinds.
Glass, metal, concrete, Eames chairs and a sliver of a pool
all work together to create a slick, mid-century vibe with a
masculine sensibility. But its the views from the upstairs living
room that really give this place drama: straight ahead are the
dunes and then the crashing Atlantic waves; behind are the
lush, mountainous peaks of Chapmans Bay. Follow the horses
down the white-sand track opposite the house, through the
87
Clockwise from this picture: oating

stairs at Waterline, Noordhoek;
Seahorse in Cape Town; Waterline;
the sitting room at The Lighthouse,
Yzerfontein; Eames chairs in
Waterline; a view of Fourth Beach
from Clifton Bungalow
grasses and onto the eight-kilometre beach. This is where

racehorses are exercised and other riders take their steeds to
gallop alongside the peeling waves. A few minutes drive away,
under the slopes of Chapmans Peak, one of the worlds most
scenic drives, youll also nd one of Cape Towns best surf
breaks. After riding horses or bikes or waves until the harsh sun
softens, head to The Foodbarn restaurant for chef Franck
Dangereuxs elegant food and wine pairings or simply try the
bouillabaisse du cap. On a balmy night, collapse on the grass at
Cape Point Vineyards overlooking the bay, drinking the wine
grown in the ancient earth around you.
eight
from 400 per night, minimum four nights
the owner Matthew (matthew.hodgson@me.com)
or www.villawaterline.co.za
Sleeps
Costs
Book through
CAPE TOWN
CLIFTON BUNGALOW, Clifton

The Clifton beaches have magnetised sun-seekers since the rst
settlers arrived in the Cape. A lot of the houses here were built
as beach huts in the early 1900s, but they have become more and
more sought after (and stupendously priced), even though the
best are a hike down from a busy road and dont have parking
spaces. The beaches themselves are a string of four ridiculously
pretty miniature bays reached by steep paths that weave drunkenly
past the houses until, abruptly, they you drop onto the squeaky
sand. Each Clifton beach has a different personality: Fourth is for
families; Third is wonderfully camp; Second is sporty and First is
seriously sporty (if you havent gone pro, dont play beach cricket
there). Clifton Bungalow, newly renovated, straddles Fourth and

Third, and is a perfect mix of homely comforts and good taste.
The industrial edge of rolling metal shutters, sliding glass doors,
wood, cement and sharp lines are softened with piles of pillows in
elegant prints, neutral bed linen and massive white bath sheets.
You have the choice of four beaches, but there is also a pool and
a daybed with views of the sand. It is a lovely place to be at
sunset, when the light slants across the sea through the house,
uniting inside and outside with startling clarity.
eight
Sleeps
Costs
Book through
CAPE TOWN
SEAHORSE, Little Beach

Anyone who stays here will feel smug. Firstly, not a lot of people
know the tiny, shell-strewn shore of Little Beach. Secondly, as
the sun-baskers pack up to go home, this secluded place is
entirely yours: the view, the inky sea and the monolithic boulders
on which your house is built, lapped by the waves. Inside,
the deep-varnished wooden oors and red oriental rugs are
unexpectedly grown-up for a seaside home and somebody has
added layers to the decor to make it feel like a much-loved
place. It may be seriously comfortable, but it also has all the
playful things that make a holiday work, such as two decks with
sun-beaten benches and a cheeky outside spa-bath clad in wood.
Plus, it is just 15 minutes drive to the city centre and about
seven steps from the sea. If you want to stay put, there is always
something beautiful to watch: a man paddle-boarding at sunset;
89
Clockwise from this picture: the

open-plan sitting room and exterior
of The Lighthouse; a path to the
private beach in front of the property
laughing lovers splashing into the icy Atlantic; the sun dropping
in splintered shafts behind the weathered rocks. At night, lie
listening to the shifting sand and gulls jostling for position on
boulders, guring out how you could buy this house and live here.
eight
from about 250 per night, minimum ve nights
www.capeportfolios.com
Sleeps
Costs
Book through
WEST COAST
THE LIGHTHOUSE, Yzerfontein

Once youve gone beyond the odd concoction of architecture
that is the beach town of Yzerfontein, the road traces a route
closer to the coast and the houses get progressively more
beautiful. And there, in the front row, sits The Lighthouse, a
truly eccentric structure with a dramatic, octagonal upper oor.
The sea washes into the view from every room and the openplan layout means everything is lled with light bouncing from
white ceiling to white walls and white oors. Built by a dreamer
who lived on-site throughout its construction, this is a perfect
fantasy beach house of wood, sea mist, fabrics worn soft by the
sun, striped deckchairs, big baths and two huge replaces. It
is an unfussy place with a relaxed feel: there is no need for
shoes. Come here with friends after a big gourmet shop in Cape
Town and only leave the house to set up camp on the crescent
of private sand just 50 metres away.
10
the owner Andrej (andrejbrandt@mac.com) or
www.lighthouselocation.com
MAP: HEATHER GATLEY
Sleeps
Costs
Book through
91
TAKE FLIGHT
Every autumn, nomadic hunters and their families, descendents of the great khans,
make a pilgrimage across the Altai Mountains in Mongolia for the festival of the golden
eagle. Their horses are ornately saddled, the birds keen-eyed and ruthless, the games
ercely contested. Hares and foxes better beware... Photographs by Anne Dokter
Kazakh hunters rest their

horses on the tplains of
Mongolias remote Altai
Mountains, on their way
west to Bayan Ulgii. They,
along with hordes of other
riders, gather there for
an annual festival that
celebrates traditional
customs and sports.
The huntsmen forge close

bonds with their golden
eagles, which are bred
from the wild. Hunting
wolves and foxes with
eagles is a proud tradition
that goes back to the
days of Genghis Khan.
Over the page: horsemen
dress for the occasion in
thick fox furs and wolfskin
coats, riding on ornate
silver saddles
This spread: the hunters bring their entire families along

to the festival, which as well as falconry includes contests
for archery, horse racing and the nest traditional dress.
Camels are packed with provisions; the horses are led by
the children. Soft-downed cashmere goats are gathered
at dawn to be milked, their prized coats blending with
the earthy shades of the land around them. Under the canvas
of the tented homes, felt rugs line the oors and trellis
walling is decorated with colourful woven textiles. The
nomads warm hospitality is renowned
A horn sounds, the eagles

are released from a nearby
mountain; the winner is
judged on how long it takes
for eagle and hunter to
reunite. This is the moment
the clock stops: the eagle,
with a wingspan of almost
eight foot, has swooped
down at full speed and is
momentarily off balance.
GETTING TO MONGOLIA
Photographer Anne Dokter
travelled with Bagual Horse
Safaris. To book a unique
journey or bespoke
experience with these
hunter nomads and their
golden eagles, contact
expert guide James Mahon
(+44 7531 319749; www.
bagual.co.uk). Aeroot
(www.aeroot.com) ies
from London to Ulaan
Bataar via Moscow; British
Airways (www.british
airways.com) and China
Airlines (www.china-airlines.
com) y there via Beijing
From left, Alex wears

chestnut and pink silk
jacket, 1,600; navy wool
trousers, 750; orange satin
pumps, 660; yellow calfskin
graduated bag, 4,300.
Valery wears pastel and black
cotton-silk coat-dress,
4,500; asymmetrical
pumps, 640. All clothing,
accessories and jewellery,
Dior (+44 20 7172 0172;
www.dior.com)
102
FIX
UP
,
LOOK SHARP
Be graphic, bold and sporty. Dior hits the beat in Monte Carlo with a
zipped-up, get-on-down cruise collection all thats needed to stay slick in
the smartest spots. Start on the promenade and end up on the danceoor.
Styled by Fiona Lintott. Photographs by Alistair Taylor-Young
From left, Valery wears oyster

silk dress, 4,400; cotton bra,
640; briefs, 610; pumps with
patent-leather strap, 740.
Alex wears pink silk dress, 8,000;
cotton bra, 640; metallic briefs,
740; asymmetrical leather
pumps, 740. Opposite, from left:
Alex wears silk dress, 7,100.
Valery wears metallic briefs,
740; bra, 640; jewellery, POA.
All clothing, accessories and
jewellery, Dior (+44 20 7172
0172; www.dior.com)
104
From left, Valery wears bonded-lace

dress, 5,600; La Mini D de Dior watch
in yellow gold with mother-of-pearl
and diamonds, 7,100. Alex wears
lace dress, 5,600; bra, 640; briefs,
630; La D de Dior watch, 4,000.
Opposite, from left: Valery wears
cobalt-blue silk body, 1,400; La Mini
D de Dior watch, 2,900. Alex wears
black silk body, 1,800. All clothing,
accessories and jewellery, Dior (+44
20 7172 0172; www.dior.com). Hair,
Diana Conte. Make-up, Katerina Brans
using Dior Cosmetics. Models, Valery
Kaufman at Marilyn and Alex Yuryeva
at Silent Models. Photographed in Monte
Carlo. Production, Brachfeld Paris
107
A-HUNTING
WE WILL GO
Now is the time to sniff out snufing wild boar, grapple with wild mushrooms and toast
the forest spirits with overowing jugs of wine. Patrick Marnham heads to the chteau-lled
wonderland of Sologne on the Loire. Photographs by Michael Paul
nding in the fforest

oresst on a moonless
Standing
Stan
night I can see just a few stars. Then,
from the edge of the clearing marked
by the outline of trees, comes a rustling
noise among the reeds on the lake shore.
From somewhere in the gloom, a stag
starts to bellow. The call, magnied by
the silence of the night, sounds a bit
like a lions, but louder and rougher.
After a while it sounds more like a lorry
in low gear, with a cracked exhaust.
The beast throws back its head, opens
its mouth and roars; the noise is a tribute
to the depth of its chest and the great
muscles of its neck and throat. This is
the music of le brame, the rutting season.
Rivals are being warned to keep their
distance from this stag and its hinds.
The sound grows closer and takes on
a prehistoric character.
Whatever is happening out there has
been taking place in these forests for
thousands of years. Something seems to
be approaching from the other side of the
clearing. Suddenly, through the darkness,
another stag answers, louder still, and
closer. I begin to think it might be time to
move a few steps back towards the road.
If you enjoy taking a break when
everyone else has already returned home,
the month of October is the perfect
season for the forests of the Sologne in
central France. The leaves are turning,
the weather is often sunny and dry, the
stags are noisy and the wine harvest is
under way. I was lucky with le brame:
there was no one else around, so the deer
Apples and, above, goats cheese at a market

in the Sologne region of central France.
Opposite, clockwise from top: Chteau de
Chambord; pheasants for sale; a honey
seller; Chteau de Blois. Previous pages,
from left: autumn leaves; Blois cathedral
110
were bolder. In autumn, one has the

forest to oneself.
The River Loire, the longest in France,
rises in the southern mountains, runs
north and then, at Orlans, turns west and
sets off for the Atlantic. The Sologne is
the area enclosed by the bend in the river,
a region of forests and tangs (small,
shallow lakes) that for centuries was the
hunting ground of the kings of France.
It is still a hunting ground today, but
there are footpaths and bridleways
through the forest, and this once-secretive
countryside is now accessible, although
in places the trees grow so thick that it
is impenetrable, for man at least.
During a recent visit, my host, who
was born on the edge of the forest, told
me that the previous autumn he had
managed to get lost for more than an hour
while mushroom-picking. The following

week, his daughter achieved the same feat.
Both had wandered off the familiar track.
Mobile phones were useless; there was
no signal. The wonder is that, with major
roads and motorways cutting through
central France, so much of the Sologne
has remained in its original, pre-medieval
condition. As well as wild boar and red
deer, the wildlife includes foxes, beavers,
pine martens and polecats, and the birds
include ospreys, herons, grebe, various
geese, eagle owls and cormorants.
On my own wanderings I encountered
wild boar, an osprey and a beaver, and
regularly saw red deer. The boar has a
bad reputation, largely because it is so
dangerous to hunt. Sows with litters
should be avoided. And in the case of
a collision a full-grown male will write
Why is this fortied fairy palace standing by itself in

the middle of a forest? What is its purpose?
From left: chestnuts gathered from the

forest; a hunting lodge in the Sologne; a
painted window in a Blois charcuterie shop.
Opposite, a path along the River Sauldre
off a large car. But when left in peace,

the boar avoids human contact; fans
of the brute prefer to regard it as a burly
and humorous philosopher rather than
a dangerous mammal. With its shortsighted snufing habits, snout down
among the acorns, and high-stepping,
high-tailed run, the wild boar peacefully
encountered is one of the highlights
of a forest walk.
The
e mostt celebrated
celebrate
rate
ted
ed
e
d literary
evocation
n of the Solog
Sologne
ogg is probably
Alain-Fourniers The L
Lost Domain.
Searchin
ngg for the orig
Searching
original chteau of
the autho
ors mythical world is one of the
o
authors
pleasures
many ple
easures of this journey. Likely
e
candidates
some of the smaller
candidate
es include som
e
chteaux
x that are now open to the
public, such as Troussay,
a Villesavin or
Beauregard. At Chteau
hte de Nanteuil,
near Huisseau-sur-Cosson
between
o
Chambord
Chambo
orrd and Blois, there are ve
delightfu
delightful
g ul guest
ggu rooms at extremely
reasonable rates. The 19th-century house
overlooks the River Cosson and is
extraordinary sights in France, if not

in Europe. Chambord is marked in the
Michelin Guide as worth a special
journey, and for once the clich is no
exaggeration. I have visited Chambord
on a dozen occasions over the years,
but each time the sense of wonder at
its setting remains.
The Htel du Grand Saint-Michel
stands directly opposite the chteau.
It is a spectacular location, and the
rooms are great value. The dining room
serves dependable French cuisine, with
dishes such as game and river sh. Local
wines include Cheverny, the red wine
of Touraine, Chinon and Bourgueil,
and the sparkling, honey-sweet white
wine of Vouvray. As night falls and the
crowds depart Chambord, one has
an uninterrupted moonlit view of the
chteau, give or take the occasional
mounted gendarme patrolling the park.
Why is this fortied fairy palace
standing by itself in the middle of a
forest? What was its purpose? It looks as
though it should be the centrepiece of
a Renaissance Versailles, but it has no
Chambord remains today. The chteau

and its park now form part of the public
estate. The walled domain, which is
crawling with red deer and boar of all
sizes, is as large as central Paris. Bicycles
can be hired by the hour or the day,
and there is a clearly marked system
of cycle routes. Although much of the
Sologne is privately owned by some of
the richest families in France, the entire
region is linked by an extensive system
of chemins ruraux, which are wellsignposted public rights of way. These
run deep into the forest, and the
Carte de Randonne series provides
excellent local walking maps.
The Solognes numerous rivers include
the Cosson, the Cher and the Beuvron,
and at many small market towns there
is access to long, deserted walks along
associated canals; a good example is the
path at Villefranche-sur-Cher. You will
nd Joan of Arc slept here notices
and statues in her memory in many of
these villages, as this was the region
where the saint marked early victories
over English armies.
In a collision a wild boar can write off a large car, but fans regard it as
a humorous philosopher rather than a dangerous brute
surrounded by a tumbledown park. The
owner, Frdric Thry, also offers seats
at his evening table dhte, and the price
includes as many jugs of his excellent
house wine as you can drink.
There is no better place to start
exploring this region than at a much larger
chteau that is also one of the most
neighbours. The clue lies in the size of

its stables. In 1519 the King of France,
Franois I, decided to create the grandest
hunting lodge in the world. And so
Chambord was erected in the middle
of the forest of Boulogne; and, with 83
staircases and 365 chimneys, the grandest
hunting lodge in the world is what
One hundred years later, it was at

Amboise, Blois and Chambord that the
Italian Renaissance rst reached France,
and Leonardo da Vinci spent the last
three years of his life in the Sologne,
serving Franois I until his death in
1519. The king valued the company of
Leonardo so highly that he constructed
113
is one of the most comfortable in the

region. The chef, Didier Clment, has
won numerous awards for his inventive
dishes based on forgotten spices and
herbs. His range of skill is extraordinary;
he attacks the entire menu, disdaining
the help of a pastry chef. Theres
everything from cuisses de grenouilles
(frogs legs) to foie gras grilled in
peaches and almonds. Langoustines are
steamed in peppery graines de paradis,
roast pigeon is stuffed Babylonienne style
(between the skin and the esh), and
followed by wild-strawberry blancmange
or a millefeuille of apricots and fennel
or both. The wine list, often described
as the best in France, is equally original.
All the great French wines are found
in the Lion dOrs cellar. But what I
recall best is the discovery of a simple,
114
dry white Cour-Cheverny, made from

the obscure Romorantin grape. This
is a hybrid of Chardonnay and is
believed to have been rst planted by
Franois I to quench the thirst of the
huntsmen of Chambord.
Reeling from the Lion dOrs dining
room late in the evening, one has the
confused impression that one has never
eaten like that before and barring a
second visit one is unlikely to do so
ever again. The menu is a tness coachs
nightmare. Anyone fortunate enough
to enter paradise, where foie gras is
supposedly consumed to the sound of
trumpets, will undoubtedly nd the
welcoming smile of Monsieur Clment
hovering somewhere behind St Peter. The
haggard crowd outside heavens gates will
be largely composed of personal trainers.
MAP: MARIKO JESSE
a secret tunnel between his medieval

castle at Amboise and Clos Luc, the
artists home, in order to spend more
time incognito with his wizard.
Clos Luc is now a museum devoted
to the Renaissance genius, but Amboise
was not the only French town that
attracted him. Recently, evidence has
emerged that Romorantin, in the southern
Sologne, may have been of even more
importance to Leonardo. Franois I had
been brought up here, 35km south of
Chambord. Visiting Romorantin today, it
is hard to imagine that this small country
town, with its broad stretch of river,
islands, water mills and a good regional
museum, was once destined to become
the capital of France. But if Leonardo
had lived ve years longer that is exactly
what might have happened.
Leonardo was obsessed with hydraulics,
and on his journey from Italy to Amboise
he made a note of the Alpine water tables
and began to work out a scheme for
linking the Rhne to the Loire through a
system of canals and tunnels. Romorantin,
with its water mills on the banks of the
Sauldre, would have been at the centre of
this network. Together, Leonardo and the
king drew up plans for what was to be
called the city of rivers. The medieval
settlement, with its chaotic and unhygienic
character, would be replaced by an orderly
design in which water would feed, cleanse
and drain the palaces and gardens of the
royal court. The Museum of Water, in an old
water mill in the town centre, tells the story.
The family-run Grand Htel du Lion
dOr, also in the centre of Romorantin,
A ptisserie in Romorantin. From top:

the old quarter in Blois; gathering ceps
in the forest; a hunter with his dogs.
Opposite, a sign at a boulangerie
The
e for
forests
restss of the
r
th
he
he ssologne remained a
royal domain
do
omain until th
th revolution in 1789.
the
Solognots
were surviving
By that time, the Solo
lo
o
state
in a stat
te
e of diseased poverty; the marshy
wastelands
ground for
wastelan
nds were a breeding
n
br
was 20 years.
fevers and
and life expectancy
an
expec
Then Parisian wealth
wea brought about a
miraculous
transformation. Rather like the
ous transform
o
miraculo
Scotland,
highland
d lairds of 19th-century
19t
the rich bourgeoisie succumbed to the
Romantic
Romant
ttic movement and descended on
the infes
ssted swamps of the Sologne like
infested
locusts,, buyi
b
y
buying
up the sodden land.
More than 300 chteaux were built
in the second half of the 19th century.
Suddenly it was Downton Abbey-sur-Loire.
A properly equipped chteau had its own
walled park, orchards, an orangery, lakes,
a river, up to 24 gamekeepers, stables and
kennels housing packs of 70 hounds. Many
of these estates still exist today, though

few are in the same hands. But hunting
continues to be fashionable among the old
rich of France; and among many of the
new rich, the Sologne is as fashionable as
ever. And that is why it is still possible to
stroll through this enchanted landscape and
meet nothing but birds and beasts more
commonly seen on a medieval tapestry.
Patrick Marnhams book Snake Dance
(Chatto & Windus, 18.99) is out this month
WHERE TO STAY
Grand Htel du Lion dOr (www.relais
chateaux.com/liondor). Doubles from
about 145. Chteau de Nanteuil (www.
chateau-nanteuil.com). Doubles from
about 70. Htel du Grand Saint-Michel
(www.saintmichel-chambord.com).
Irina Yan of the Garage

art gallery. Opposite:
gallery programmes;
Oldich Dress & Drink;
government buildings
on the Frunzenskaya
Embankment
116
PAINT THE TOWN

ART AND NIGHTLIFE ARE BOTH BOOMING IN MOSCOW. GET STUCK INTO THE ACTION.
BY JONATHAN BASTABLE. PHOTOGRAPHS BY LISA LINDER
MISSION TO MOSCOW
WHERE TO STAY
+Golden Apple
The nearest thing to a boutique hotel in

Moscow, a block to the east of Tverskaya.
The public spaces are colourful, the rooms
are soothingly minimal and the service
is terric. +7 495 980 7000; www.golden
apple.ru. Doubles from about 115
+The Ritz-Carlton, Moscow
The blingy option. The interior reeks of
grandeur; the basement pool is lit with
twinkling Swarovski-crystal lights. Lady
Gaga chose the presidential suite as her
base when she played Moscow in 2012.
The rooftop O2 Lounge is worth a visit just
for the view,but be careful not to order
a bottle of 1964 Dalmore Constellation
whisky by accident itll set you back two
million roubles. +7 495 225 8888; www.
ritzcarlton.com. Doubles from about 400
+Hotel Metropol Moscow
Now a bit dusty and old-world, the Metropol
is a 19th-century vision of ne living. The
rooms are on the small side, but the building
is lovely and full of historic associations.
Everyone from Joseph Stalin to Elton John
has stayed here. The main restaurant is
a n de sicle gem: chandeliers, stainedglass ceiling and giant oral light-pillars.
+7 499 501 7800; www.metropol-moscow.ru.
BEST RESTAURANTS
FOR HIPSTERS
Moscow is an immense village, a bustling hamlet of 11 million people. Its global

status notwithstanding, it remains forever ramshackle and chaotic, bafing and
ungovernable. The city is full of sights and vignettes that Tolstoy would recognise: the
hefty women labourers clearing snow with huge, at spades like pizza shovels; the
ofcious policeman standing with one hand tucked in his greatcoat, like a man with
a Napoleon xation; the dishevelled beggars and holy fools in the doorway of each
biscuit-barrel church. And on every other corner there are tableaux straight out
of a Gogol short story: two swarthy Uzbeks purposefully wheeling a red satin chaise
longue along Tverskoy Boulevard; a drunken Lenin lookalike having a furious row
with a pro-democracy protester; a chic middle-aged lady alone in a bar, elegantly and
unselfconsciously smoking through a foot-long amber cigarette-holder.
The streets of Moscow are frantic and frenetic, but one of the odd things about the
city is that, amid the roar of the trafc and the general human hubbub, there are silent
spots and hushed corners where you can sit and take stock. One of these is Patriarchs
Ponds, where the astonishing opening scene of Bulgakovs The Master and Margarita
takes place (if you read only one novel set in Moscow before coming here, make it
Margarita). It is a place to come and watch babushkas pushing buggies around the pond
or, in winter, children skating on its frozen surface. Another peaceful corner is the
Hermitage Garden, where you can buy delicious hamburgers from an Airstream trailer.
They alone are worth the short walk from Tverskaya, Moscows Oxford Street. Oddly,
Red Square is another quiet place: here, at the very epicentre of this broad and
ancient country, you can be alone with yourself under the Kremlin walls, listening to the
chiming bells in the Saviour Tower, drinking in the architectural rework display of St
Basils Cathedral, or contemplating the squat geometry of Lenins still unemptied tomb.
Moscow does not surrender its sights or its secrets as easily as, say, St Petersburg.
Here in the capital you have to seek out treasures and go in search of the unforgettable.
Nothing is easy to nd no hip gallery, no cool restaurant. In Moscow, inaccessibility
equals exclusivity; it adds a certain cachet. But the effort you have to invest usually
118
+Delicatessen
This speakeasy is concealed deep within an
unlit courtyard behind a Stalinist apartment
block. The sign over the door reads, Thank
you for nding us. It is part pub, part bistro,
and totally rammed with arty folk. The menu
contains some challenging dishes (calves
brains, Tuscan head-cheese), but the burgers
are the real draw. The ultimate sliders, for
example, are three differently delicious
mini-burgers, arranged on the plate like the
cupolas of some Orthodox church. Ulitsa
Sadovaya-Karetnaya 20, Building 2: go through
the arch at No 20, then around the back of
the building to your left (+7 495 699 3952;
www.newdeli.ru). About 40 for two
+Uilliams
Uilliams is quite the most stylish place to
eat in town. Sit at your enamelled table and
watch the chefs work with super-slick
efficiency in the open kitchen. The menu is
not the hardback novel of so many Russian
restaurants, but a single sheet of A4.
Try the shoulder of lamb: two sweet pucks
of meat on a bed of roast tomatoes and
peppers. Bread comes in a paper bag, as if
you were planning to take it away (and
Opposite, clockwise from top left: artist

and theatrical designer Pavel Kaplevich;
Simachev bar; the Garage gallery; the O2
Lounge at The Ritz-Carlton, Moscow
in fact you can just pop in and buy a

loaf if you want). Youd be crazy to visit
Moscow and not come here. Ulitsa Malaya
Bronnaya 20a (+7 495 650 6462; www.
uilliams.ru). About 70 for two
+Moloko
A plush caf in what was, until recently, a
Soviet-era dairy shop. There are about 30
kinds of tea, including African hibiscus
and Chinese Ya-Bao. For breakfast, try the
syrniki (sweet curd-cheese pancakes) with
a cinnamon cappuccino. Ulitsa Bolshaya
Dmitrovka 7/5 (+7 495 692 0309; www.
cafe-moloko.ru). Breakfast about 20 for two
+Stolle
The name is German, but the pies are
proudly Slavonic. Eat a piece in the cafe,
or take a whole one away in a box tied
up with string. The sh pie is sh-shaped
and quite delicious; most are rectangular
with latticework on top. Ulitsa Bolshaya
Sadovaya 8, Building 1 (+7 495 650 9352;
www.stolle.ru). Pies from about 5 per kilo
+Bublik
A patisserie owned by Kseniya Sobchak,
daughter of the former mayor of St
Petersburg, and a vocal critic of the Putin
regime. The cakes and pastries are amazing.
Come for afternoon coffee, and you will
be striking a blow for Russian democracy
while enjoying a sugar rush. Tverskoi
Boulevard 24 (+7 495 629 1342)
BEST RETRO RESTAURANTS

+Sluzhebny Vkhod
Tucked away at the back of the former
Institute of Marxism-Leninism (with its
giant portraits of Marx, Lenin and Engels
on the faade), this nostalgic restaurant
offers magnicent food at democratic
prices. Try local favourites such as salat
Olivier what everyone else calls Russian
salad. Ulitsa Bolshaya Dmitrovka 15 (+7
495 662 2467). About 30 for two
+Kamchatka
New, ironically Soviet-style beer bar next
to the Vogue Caf. Queue up with a tray to
collect your beer and classic zakuski (dried
sh, stuffed mushrooms, caviar sandwiches).
Then nd a corner and soak up the Russian
rock on the jukebox. Kuznetsky Most 7 (+7
495 624 8825). Zakuski from about 2
+Petrovich
This strange restaurants design evokes the
communal apartments of the 1970s and
1980s. One of its founders is the cartoonist
Andrei Bilzho, but this is not a joke venue:
the food is excellent the backward-looking
Russian dishes as well as the contemporary
European ones and so is the live music.
Booking advisable. Ulitsa Myasnitskaya 24,
Building 3 (+7 495 623 0082; www.club
petrovich.ru). About 40 for two
Above right, the bookshop at Garage.

Opposite, clockwise from top left: TV presenter
Mari Koberidze at Simachev bar; Brasserie
Moct; Mayakovskaya Metro station
pays off, because when you nd the incongruous steel door that leads down to a
great caf, or turn a corner and see something amazing, or unexpectedly get a table
where no one ever gets a table, you feel as though you have cracked some special
code, slipped in under the radar. A generation ago, you would have got this same
thrill from buying a slice of garlic sausage.
One hidden architectural gem is the astonishing house that the Constructivist
architect Konstantin Melnikov built for himself in the 1920s. It is tucked away
on Krivoarbatsky Pereulok Crooked Arbat Alley and it is like no building
anywhere else: two tall, intersecting concrete drums with hexagonal windows, like
a stylised honeycomb or the gaps in chicken-wire. It is one of the nest buildings of
the 20th century, but you would never nd it unless you knew it was there.
Melnikovs house is the genuine article, but from an architectural point of view
Moscow is Xerox City: it is full of buildings that are copies or imitations of what was
here in tsarist times. The gateway to Red Square is one such edice, but the most
YOUR FACE OR MINE?
Face control, or rather feis-kontrol, is a peculiarly Russian concept. It is a system whereby

doormen at nightclubs, bars and restaurants can refuse entry to anyone who does not look
sufficiently attractive or hip. Stories are told of a famous feiskontrolshchik called Pasha, who
stood guard at a club named Rai (Paradise) like a tattooed St Peter, deciding who was
worthy to pass through the doors and into nightclub heaven... Feis-kontrol is not quite so
pitiless as it was a year or two ago, but its still a matter of deadly concern to the beau monde.
Everyone knows the basic rules: never arrive in an ordinary car or even a taxi; never wear
cheap shoes; never turn up in a group consisting only of men. Some Muscovites have taken
face-control lessons: how to get out of a limo looking like you were born to it; and how
to cultivate an attitude that says: Im loaded, so dont even think about freezing me out.
121
WE DONT QUITE KNOW WHAT TO MAKE OF OUR CAPITAL, ONE MUSCOVITE TOLD ME.
122
WE RELY ON VISITORS, IN PARTICULAR ON FOREIGNERS, TO SPELL IT OUT FOR US.
BEST NEAR-ABROAD
RESTAURANTS
Moscow no longer rules the near-abroad
(ex-USSR) countries, but still loves their food
+Vostochny Kvartal
This cheerful Uzbek restaurant is the place
to go for dips and salads followed by plov
(spiced rice with lamb). Ulitsa Arbat 45/24
(+7 499 241 3803; www.vkvartal-arbat.ru).
About 35 for two
+Noev Kovcheg (Noahs Ark)
A lavish Armenian restaurant, with a
vast variety of shashlyks (kebabs) prepared
on a brazier in the middle of the room.
An Armenian band and Armenian cognacs
add to the vibe. Maly Ivanovsky Pereulok 9
(+7 495 917 0717; www.noevkovcheg.ru).
About 50 for two
+Dzhondzholi
Slightly bonkers Georgian restaurant. Try
the khachapuri (hot cheese bread), lobio
(bean stew) or kharcho (beef-and-pepper
soup). Ulitsa Tverskaya 20/1 (+7 495 650
5567; www.jonjoli.ru). About 40 for two
+Chito-Ra
Its out of the way, but this is where real
acionados come for Georgian food. Locals
rave about the khinkali (meat dumplings).
Ulitsa Kazakova 10, Building 2 (+7 499 265
7876). About 20 for two (cash only)
FUN BARS
+Apple Bar & Restaurant
egregious example is the imposing Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, which was an
open-air swimming pool between being unceremoniously demolished in the atheistic
1930s, and then hurriedly reconstructed in the penitent 1990s. The church you see
today is no more authentic than the Disneyed breezeblock-and-plasterboard kremlin
in Izmailovsky Park (the newest attraction of old Moscow). There are of course some
new buildings that actually look like new buildings for example, the sumptuous
Ritz-Carlton hotel. The marbled exterior has the air of an oligarchs mausoleum, while
the inside is an exhaustive essay in high-end hoteliery. The rooftop O2 bar is dizzying
both in its views and its prices and the spa in the lower depths is a real treat.
urely no city in europe struggles so much with its own past. Moscow
is conicted, and doesnt know whether to embrace its still very recent
Communist history, or whether to leap straight past it and dive into its
tsarist heritage. The jolly and ironical Soviet-style cafs and bars are one
sign of this unease. So is the Ritz-Carltons sabrage offering: Step into the brisk life
of the 19th-century Russian hussars Our sommelier will open for you a bottle of
Piper-Heidsieck Champagne with a sabre! Even Muscovites seem a bit bemused
by Moscow. We dont quite know what to make of our capital, someone said to me.
We rely on visitors, in particular on foreigners, to spell it out for us. At the same
time, and in entirely contradictory fashion, Moscow in 2013 is culturally experimental
and forward-looking. There is a new wave in the city, said one gallery curator. The
trouble is, we dont know how to get the word out.
One highly visible sign of this upsurge of creativity is the arts centre in the jumbled
Victorian buildings of the former Red October Chocolate Factory. It is a red-brick
hive, crammed with design studios, exhibition spaces and showrooms, restaurants,
clubs and one stand-out bar, the Strelka, attached to the media institute of the same
name. Red October may soon have a rival in the form a new cultural quarter, tentatively
named Moscow SoHo, to be planted on the banks of the Yauza, not far from the city
124
The restaurant at the Golden Apple

hotel has a long, luminous leaf-green bar.
An array of snacks includes very good
pelmeny Siberian ravioli served with
pink beetroot sauce and soured cream.
Very warming in winter. Ulitsa Malaya
Dmitrovka 11 (+7 495 980 7000)
+Bavarius
A smoky simulacrum of a Bavarian beer hall,
serving hearty fare halfway between Russian
and German. The barmen are friendly
enough, but you can tell that deep down
they hate their lederhosen. Ulitsa SadovayaTriumfalnaya 2/30 (+7 495 699 4211)
+Simachev Shop & Bar
With a bar downstairs and a designer
clothes shop upstairs in a kind of rooftop
conservatory, this is a very funky
place to stop for a cocktail if you have
been shopping in the fashionable
pedestrianised area around Stoleshnikov
Pereulok and Kuznetsky Most. Theres
an odd counter decorated with brass
bath taps, and a gilded Kalashnikov rie
hangs on the wall. Stoleshnikov Pereulok 12

(+7 495 629 5702)
Above left, Rebecca Horns The Painting

Machine at the Multimedia Art Museum.
Opposite, clockwise from top left: Snowake,
one of the staff at Oldich Dress & Drink;
Soho Rooms; Simachevs faade. Previous
pages, left: Moscow Art Theatre; Kamchatka
bar; a camera stall in Izmailovsky Park; caf
at Garage; right, Alena Baranok of Simachev
+Strelka
Great spot for a sundowner, as the terrace
(where drinks cost more) commands a view
of the river and the Cathedral of Christ the
Saviour. Creatives from the Red October
arts complex gather here of an evening.
Bersenevskaya Naberezhnaya 14, Building 5
(+7 495 771 7416; www.strelkainstitute.com)
ART AND SHOPPING

+Garage Center for Contemporary Culture
The arts centre has moved out of the

1920s bus shed that gave it its name. Rem
Koolhaas is renovating a new permanent
space an abandoned restaurant in the
depths of Gorky Park. Go along and check
it out: Dasha Zhukovas projects are always
interesting. www.garageccc.com
+Oldich Dress & Drink
Vintage store full of interesting frocks,
objets dart, costume jewellery and fur coats.
There are sometimes pyjama parties in the
evening, and downstairs there is a hidden
bar that declares its Anglophilia by serving
sh and chips. Ulitsa Bolshaya Dmitrovka 11
(+7 499 951 7995; www.oldich.ru)
+Red October Chocolate Factory
The decommissioned factory occupies the
western end of Bolotny island in the middle
of the Moscow River. Cross the bridge from
the cathedral, and wander the galleries,
cafs, exhibition spaces and bars. A ghostly
whiff of chocolate hangs around near the
Lumire Brothers photographic studio.
WHAT TO DO
Opposite, Soho Rooms, a restaurant, bar and

club on Savvinskaya Embankment
centre. But for now the avant-garde of the new wave is the Garage. This showcase for
contemporary art has just moved from a striking modernist 1920s bus depot to new
premises in Gorky Park. The driving force behind it is Dasha Zhukova, partner of
Roman Abramovich. In Britain she may be taken for a zillionaires wag, but in her
home country she is known and respected as an astute sponsor of the arts.
So if challenging modern art is your thing, Moscow is the city to check out right
now (especially as ights are suddenly very cheap). But it is a happening and exciting
place in other ways, too. The food scene is vibrant, though judging by the street signage
and the advertising on the Metro, youd think that Muscovites live exclusively on a diet
of sushi and hot chocolate. Here, in the erstwhile hub of a multi-ethnic empire, you
can sample dishes and traditions you will never have encountered before Russian
for sure, but also Siberian, Uzbek, Armenian, Azerbaijani and, best of all, Georgian,
the only cuisine in the world that uses walnuts as a spice. And then there is a handful
of destination venues serving memorable contemporary food. Dont come all this way
and miss out on the world-class Uilliams, or the well-hidden Delicatessen.
A
MAP: NEIL GOWER
+Buy souvenirs in Izmailovsky Park,

where the fake Kremlin is lled with
countless stalls; but expect no bargains.
+Explore the (real) Kremlin, one of the
great medieval fortresses of the world, and
still the inscrutable brain of the Russian
state. Buy tickets in the Alexandrovsky
Garden. It costs extra to visit the Armoury
or go up the Ivan the Great Bell Tower.
+ Steam your troubles away at the banya.
The best bathhouse is the spectacular
Sandunovskiye (Ulitsa Neglinnaya 14).
But there are other good ones that might
be easier to get into: Krasnopresnenskiye
(Stolyarny Pereulok 7); Seleznevskiye (Ulitsa
Seleznevskaya 15); Rzhevskiye (Banny
Proezd 3a). Expect to pay about 25 for
a session more at the Sandunovskiye.
+Ride the Metro. The Circle Line has the
most spectacular stations, but dont miss
Mayakovskaya with its aeronautical ceiling
mosaics, or the socialist-realist statues on
the platforms at Revolution Square.
+Drink nastoika outdoors. Nastoika is a
sweet, fruity alcoholic infusion, like vodka
for wimps. Try a cranberry shot (klukovka)
in the Hermitage Garden while watching
the ice-skating or, in summer, waiting for
an open-air jazz concert to begin.
nd yet, there is still so much about Moscow that is timeless and

authentically Slavic, as impenetrable and shaggy as a Volga boatmans
beard: the chilled vodka and dainty zakuski that are the soul of any
Russian celebration; the warm, wet fug that precedes the arrival of an
underground train; the crenellated Kremlin, curled like some sleeping dragon in the
Borovitsky hollow. When you go, be sure not to miss out on the citys long-standing
pleasures: a night at the Bolshoi a never-to-be-forgotten experience if you can
score tickets; the ineffably relaxing and democratic bathhouse (get a Russian friend
to show you the ropes and thrash you with birch branches); the dark, icon-rich
interior of a church, where incense lls the air with smoky perfume, and an unseen
choir makes the walls ring with the very harmonies of heaven.
127
Out of this world
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Clockwise from this

picture: a bike parked
at Peterhouse; the
Gloucester room at
Duke House; a pizza
chef at Aromi; St Johns
College; satchels for
sale; Eton Mess at The
Varsity Hotel. Opposite,
punts on the Cam
THIS MONTH
Cambridge
AN INSIDERS GUIDE
PHOTOGRAPHS: CORBIS; 4CORNERS IMAGES; ALESSANDRA SPAIRANI
It may be crammed with boffins and bookworms, but this city of swooning poets and
weeping willows appeals to the heart as much as the head, says resident E Jane Dickson
n asylum, in every sense of the word. That was AE Housmans

pronouncement on Cambridge. Maybe not the ideal marketing
slogan, but oddly accurate. The university city, for centuries
the crucible of rational thought and cultured eccentricity, rises
like a lovely hallucination from the Fens. In its medieval lanes, loud with
the whirr of bicycle wheels, mad-eyed mathematicians lock handlebars
with oaty girls where Newton and Plath once strayed. Cattle graze on
unexpected urban pasture. And the newest landmark, a monumental clock
erected by Corpus Christi College in 2008 to mark the 800th anniversary of
the university, conrms the peculiar spirit of the place. A giant mechanical
grasshopper biting chunks out of time, the Chronophage reects Einsteins

ideas on the relativity of experience. This marvellous timepiece cost
1 million. Its construction involved 200 people and six newly patented
inventions. And it is accurate once every ve minutes, which is literally
academic, because it is by no means clear how you are supposed to read
the hour. But thats Cambridge for you. And as Housman also promised,
there is no better retreat from a jangling world. There is peace in its quiet
courts, glad young life on its wide green spaces. On a spring day smelling
of lilac, you may be moved to knock out a sonnet or crack quark theory
(really, how hard can it be?). And the tea shops arent bad, either.
In Britain
probably Britains least car-friendly
city; a parking ticket, according to local
report, is marginally cheaper than an
all-day stay in its most central car park.)
1 Victoria Street (+44 1223 314773;
www.dukehousecambridge.co.uk).
Doubles from 130
TOP-NOTCH TOWNHOUSE
WHERE
TO EAT
SMART HOTEL
WHERE WITH A PANORAMIC
TO STAY ROOF TERRACE
Shoe-horned into a narrow
passageway moments from Magdalene
Bridge, The Varsity Hotel & Spa has the
feeling of a private club. The project of
four Cambridge alumni, its a discreet
new-build, bedded into its surroundings
using reclaimed materials. Decanters
of sherry and portraits of distinguished
graduates nod to the Senior Common
Room, but rooms are bright and boutiquey.
The restaurant, oddly, is around the corner
on the riverbank. Planning regulations
ruled out direct access from the hotel, but
room service goes the extra mile.
Ask for a room on the upper storeys,
where oor-to-ceiling windows are
lled with the citys romantic roofscape.

Best of all, the roof-garden bar has a
360-degree gargoyles view of surrounding
colleges. You can peer nosily into cloisters
or get your bearings from the annotated
watercolour that comes with the drinks
list. Theres a barbecue brunch up here
at weekends. Thompsons Lane (+44
1223 306030; www.thevarsityhotel.com).
Doubles from 165
STYLISH BED-AND-BREAKFAST
IN A GREAT LOCATION
Duke House, right on the edge of Christs
Pieces, is a very superior B&B with four
elegant guest rooms. Owners Liz and
Rob Cameron offer a friendly concierge
service and the incalculable advantage
of free, secure parking. (Cambridge is
TEN COURSES, TWO

MICHELIN STARS
Midsummer House, in a
prime position on the banks
of the Cam, is the restaurant of choice
for graduation dinners but every meal
here is a celebration. Its two Michelin
stars are evident in chef Daniel Cliffords
classically based cooking with a witty,
English edge. The 10-course tasting menu
is a kind of culinary carnival, with larky
amuse-bouches (the house Bloody Mary
is tomato-vodka foam with celery sorbet)
and big-guns mains. Doughnuts served as
petits fours are sheer bravado. The wine
list stretches from very decent reds and
whites around the 35 mark to vintage
Krug and Montrachet grands crus beyond
the dreams of avarice. Watch proud parents
reapply it only happens once smiles when
the bill arrives. Midsummer Common
(+44 1223 369299; www.midsummerhouse.
co.uk). Ten-course tasting menu 95
SENSATIONAL SICILIAN
PICNIC TREATS
For refuelling on the hoof, follow your
nose to Aromi, where yard-long atbreads
are pulled from wood-burning ovens.
Recently opened behind the Guildhall,
this is an authentic Sicilian pizzeria with
ingredients imported on a weekly basis.
Pillowy schiacciatelle, stuffed with pancetta,
caciotta cheese, artichokes and handmade
arancini (risotto balls that are perfect for
a riverside picnic), are served at warp speed
by shouty Italians. If you can shoulder your

way to one of the tiny tables inside,
PHOTOGRAPH: ALESSANDRA SPAIRANI
Clockwise: crispy egg, pea

velout and asparagus at
Poets House, Ely, and a
mirror by the stairs; Aromi
restaurant; Kettles Yard
About 15 miles across the Fens, in

Ely, is Poets House, a new hotel and
restaurant that has earned an excellent
reputation since opening in April. Its
a stylishly appointed townhouse opposite
Ely Cathedral (check out the austerely
beautiful Lady Chapel and its mad,
Disney-princess Madonna). Rooms
are smart and comfy, with glamorous
copper bathtubs, and the pretty garden
is a draw for Sunday lunch. 40 St Marys
Street, Ely (+44 1353 887777; www.
poetshouse.com). Doubles from 179
In Britain
Clockwise: Ark gift shop;

cod with peanut crust and
shrimp at Alimentum; a
painted oar at Duke House
the coffee and doll-sized pastries

are outstanding. 1 Benet Street (+44 1223
300117; www.aromi.co.uk)
Clare is stunning. The big show-stopper

colleges (Kings, Trinity, St Johns) offer
ofcial tours for a fee, well worth it if you
are interested in their history. In Trinitys
Wren Library, you can pore over Miltons
poems in his own handwriting and the
original manuscript of Winnie-the-Pooh.
Kings College Chapel, where Oliver
Cromwell drilled the New Model Army
on rainy days, is a world-class wonder.
By far the nicest way to enjoy its fantastic
detail spun-sugar vaulting raised on
columns slender as reeds is to attend
choral evensong (MondaySaturday
5.30pm, Sunday 3.30pm; admission free).
The answering rhythms of voices and
stone are a glory not soon forgotten.
TAKE A WILD PUNT

REVAMPED CAFE FOR FOODIES
Fitzbillies is a much-loved Cambridge
institution, famous for sticky buns made to
the same recipe since 1922. The tea shop,
a hats-and-cakestands, EM Forster kind of
place, was saved from the receiver in 2011
by food writer Tim Hayward. It is now
open daily for coffee, cakes and lunch, and
from Thursday to Saturday for dinner: the
seasonal menu might include lamb rump,
spiced aubergine or roast hake. 5152
Trumpington Street (+44 1223 352500; www.
tzbillies.com). Dinner about 60 for two
UNFORGETTABLE FOOD
IN AN UNLIKELY SPOT
Its located in the shadow of a multiplex,
but Alimentum is worth a detour from the
scenic route. Under chef Mark Poynton,
formerly of Midsummer House, it has
gained a Michelin star for sensational
food (smoked eel with apple, horseradish
and trufe; pork belly, llet and shoulder
with black pudding and swede) at sensible
prices. 152154 Hills Road (+44 1223
413000; www.restaurantalimentum.co.uk).
Three-course set menus from 24.50
WHAT
TO SEE
ACADEMIC
PURSUITS
Unlike Oxford, where

town and gown each
hold their own, Cambridge is basically
a university on connecting streets. Most
of the 31 colleges are fairly relaxed about
visitors, although restrictions apply at
exam times and in May Week (mid-June).
You can generally slip past the porters
lodge with a look of scholarly intent.
Step on the grass, however, and all hell
will break loose (lawns are reserved
for Fellows, a tradition pursued with
heart-bursting zeal).
Each college has its distinct character.
Jesus has a ne collection of contemporary
sculpture, and the Fellows Garden of
Do not be fooled by the fantasy. Punting

the actual business with the pole is fun
for exactly seven minutes. Unless youre
experienced, or immune to the shame of
bashing about in a 24ft water-dodgem, its a
lot nicer to be punted. Scudamores (www.
scudamores.com), the oldest punt-hire
company in Cambridge, offers a chauffeur
service (and theyll generally let you have
a go if the rivers not too busy). There are
ghost and reworks tours in May Week,
and the company has recently launched
a bat safari, hugely popular with kids.
Everyone gets their own sonar detector,
and an expert from the Wildlife Trust
explains why theres nothing to be scared
of as black shapes streak, like stealth
bombers, through the river dusk.
For self-punters, the less crowded
upper river is a better bet than the College
Backs (where, to be honest, you get pretty
much the same views on foot). From the
Silver Street mooring, you can punt, row
or kayak through the water-meadows
to Grantchester. Kingshers ash blue re
among the willows and it all looks like a
Waterhouse painting (if Ophelia were
In Britain
comedians before theyre famous
(and sometimes before theyre funny) at
the fortnightly Footlights Smokers. The
Faculty of Musics West Road Concert
Hall (11 West Road; www.westroad.org)
offers classical programmes of an
international standard (and at sub-London
prices), and colleges present year-round
student drama and music events. Check
out posters on the railings around All
Saints Garden on Trinity Street.
The Wren Library at Trinity

College. Below, jewellery at Ark
to come oating by, you wouldnt

be surprised). You can pole through
lilies to Byrons Pool, where the original
Hooray swam during his time at Trinity.
(Virginia Woolf also swam naked here
with Rupert Brooke and was cross when
her friends werent shocked.) The Old
Vicarage at Grantchester, made famous
by Brookes poem, is now owned by
Jeffrey Archer, but there is honey still for
tea at The Orchard (4547 Mill Way,
Grantchester; +44 1223 551125). Lunchtime
queues at this historic tearoom stretch
to innity, but in the morning or late
afternoon you can usually nd a table
(or, if its sunny, a deckchair in a shady
spot under the apple trees).
SHOPS TO SEEK OUT

There is no better place than Cambridge
to buy books. Edge your way past piles of
tattered Wisdens and the brilliant poetry
section at the front of Davids (16 St
Edwards Passage; +44 1223 354619)
to the antiquarian room, where ercely
competitive bibliophiles pop in three
or four times a day for fear of missing the
latest consignment. You can pick up a
signed Laurie Lee paperback for 25
or lust after a Second Folio Shakespeare
at 50,000. Good quality, poster-sized
reproductions of William Blakes colour
engravings are two for a tenner.
Independent shops are seeded sparsely
through the high-street chains. At The
Cambridge Satchel Company (17 Rose
Crescent; +44 1223 366106), Japanese

visitors practically weep with excitement
at seasonal collections in shades of
fondant or uoro, hand embossed while
you wait. Ark (2 St Marys Passage; +44
1223 363372) is the place for unusual gifts
sourced from all over the world. Stylishly
eccentric stock ranges from avoured
Italian toothpaste to jewelled dragonies,
wooden shoe-lasts and exquisite childrens
gardening gloves. If items start to appear
in other shops, they immediately join the
rolling sale on the upper oor.
CAMBRIDGE HAS TALENT

The student-run ADC Theatre (Park
Street; www.adctheatre.com) is the
home of the Footlights comedy troupe,
which launched John Cleese, Stephen
Fry, Emma Thompson et al. Catch
The university has nine museums, most

of which are free, making them ideal for
a quick dip. Here are three of the best.
Kettles Yard (Castle Street; www.
kettlesyard.co.uk) was, until 1973, the
home of Jim Ede, a former curator of
Londons Tate Gallery. His collection
of 20th-century painting and sculpture
by artists such as Ben and Winifred
Nicholson, Alfred Wallis, Christopher
Wood and Barbara Hepworth (many
of them friends of Ede and his wife)
is arranged with great warmth and a
fabulous eye for placement in a lightlled domestic interior. You pop in for
10 minutes (from the outside, it looks
tiny) and two hours later youre still there,
wondering what it is about these objects
in these relationships to one another
that promotes such an extraordinary
feeling of well-being.
The Scott Polar Research Institute
(Lenseld Road; www.spri.cam.ac.uk/
museum) has a small but beautifully
assembled collection of artefacts, maps,
photographs and documents relating to
Arctic and Antarctic exploration. The
very young will love dressing up in polar
kit, and grown-ups will nd themselves
swallowing hard at the last letters home
from Scott and his insanely heroic team.
Theres a Harry Potter-ish feel to the
sweetly Edwardian Sedgwick Museum
of Earth Sciences (Downing Street; www.
sedgwickmuseum.org). The skeleton of
a giant elk is mounted on a plan chest full
of rock samples, as though it had jumped
up there and didnt know how to get
down. Fossils are laid out with exquisite
hand-lettered labels, and there is a
collection of rocks collected by Darwin
during the voyage of HMS Beagle.
Erudite staff are delighted to chat with
young visitors, and, best of all, the gift
shop sells genuine 40-million-year-old
fossilised turtle poo at two quid a throw,
so the souvenirs are sorted!
PHOTOGRAPH: 4CORNERS IMAGES
IMMACULATE COLLECTIONS
R OYA L S E RVI C E & TH E LEVEL
The renowned brand Meli Cuba is enhanced

with its Royal Service &The Level, offering guests
amazing experiences in a paradise-like setting. It is
the perfect combination for an exceptional stay.
E X C E P C I O N A L
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PARADISUS I Paradisus Princesa del Mar I Paradisus Varadero I Paradisus Ro de Oro

MELI I Meli Cohiba I Meli Habana I Meli Santiago de Cuba I Meli Buenavista I Meli Marina Varadero
T RAVELLER PROM OT ION
Notes from
a small
Island
Bespoke luxury travel is an art: ITC Classics gives us a

masterclass on why tour operators are here to stay
here are a staggering number of luxury

tour operators, hundreds of brochures
featuring many of the same destinations
and hotels (most claiming they go
that extra mile), so how does a company like ITC
Classics stand out from the crowd? We found
passion, knowledge, service and value to
be a winning combination.
BESPOKE LUXURY HOLIDAYS

Independently owned since 1974, ITC Classics is
one of the most knowledgeable travel companies in
the business, using its four decades of experience to
go above and beyond what is printed on the page.
The brilliant team of staff has own their fair share
of air miles; they are passionate about their work
and honest when discussing possible itineraries.
Never do they sell the unseen and never will they
recommend somewhere that isnt a good t for
the individual. The right resort for the right type
of person is key to their success, and their genuine
approach to selling, utterly refreshing.
These are bespoke luxury holidays handled
with great care. Producing somewhere sunny is
no longer enough. They listen, get the full

picture and then create an all-encompassing
unforgettable experience. Forty years has
given ITC an unrivalled product to work
with and their portfolio is immense. But it is
their relationship with the hotels they feature
that gives them the edge. These fantastic
partnerships mean that ITC customers often
get the best rooms (upgrades youd never get
when booking direct) as well as added value
extras such as free spa treatments, dinners and
anything else they can wangle along the way.
UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE
Way back when, the word value never used to
be associated with commission-hungry tour
operators. But what was once a luxury for the
well heeled is now actually better value than
sourcing direct. So is it really worth ditching
the DIY approach? The answer is (even for the
fanatical travel snob) yes. Hotels and airlines love
tour operators because they bring repeat volume
bookings rather than individuals who rarely
return. This means the tour operator has the
power to negotiate better rates. In short, good
value combined with added value, keeps business

booming for ITC Classics and friends.
SMALL AND FAMILY-OWNED

Once converted to the put-your-feet-up method of
global travel, theres no going back, particularly if
youve come up against the odd hiccup. Volcanic
ash, air trafc control, lost luggage you name it
ITCs 24-hour emergency team is a simple phone
call away. So while independent travellers are left
stranded in all their solitary stoicism, ITC Classics
gives automatic backup for every single customer.
They can also help in other aspects when larger
operators cant (or wont). Because they are small
and family-owned they can be more exible, more
willing to change bookings and not tie up funds
Clockwise from main
image: One&Only Reethi
Rah; Four Seasons Resort
Langkawi; Colony Club
by Elegant Hotels;
One&Only Le Saint
Gran; Abama Golf &
Spa Resort; Buccament
Bay Resort
READER OFFERS
ITC Classics has put together eight unmissable
offers for Cond Nast Traveller readers.
Experience luxury for less at some of the worlds
hottest hotels. For further information call
01244 355 477 or visit itcclassics.co.uk/CNT
immediately, asking for full payment only eight

weeks prior to departure.
REAL EXPERTS
INDEPENDENTLY OWNED SINCE 1974, ITC CLASSICS IS ONE

OF THE MOST KNOWLEDGEABLE TRAVEL COMPANIES IN THE
BUSINESS, USING ITS FOUR DECADES OF EXPERIENCE TO GO
ABOVE AND BEYOND WHAT IS PRINTED ON THE PAGE
On paper, ITC Classics proves why it won best

tour operator in our 2011 and 2012 awards. But it
is not just fact, it is feeling, and there is a good vibe
emanating from their Cheshire-based ofces. We
love the fact that in this consumer-driven world
ITC Classics four core values still remain: passion,
inspiration, genuine and excellence. So for this DIY
holiday stalwart theres a realisation that there is
no shame in letting the experts do the groundwork
(particularly when they get a better price).
Inside track
Our landscape is in peril,

chairman Simon Jenkins.
patch, but whos looking
nglands great views are

its national landscape gallery.
From the sweeping chalklands of Kent and Sussex to
the wild uplands of Cumbria, from the
pounding coast of Cornwall to the soft
marshes of East Anglia, they remind
us of the geology and geography of
these islands. They remind us of what
is our duty to protect.
I came to landscape from an interest
in buildings, in the towns and villages,
the churches and great houses that form
Englands heritage. I gradually found
that the meaning in these buildings lay in
their setting. It lay in a context of gardens,
trees, elds, hills a context that gave
history to architecture, but also beauty.
A view is more than a landscape
picture. It is the impact that a place makes
on the human eye at a particular moment.
It is a picture, but one that is activated
by how we move through it, by the time
of day, the season, the atmosphere, the
weather. It is also activated by our state of
mind when looking at it, by our sense of
place and identity with place. Gazing at
a view is, or should be, emotional.
The writer
William Hazlitt
said that a
traveller should
always walk
alone, since the
presence of
a companion
distracts from the
view. It dulls the communion with nature.
Walking and viewing should be a solitary,
spiritual thing though he also advised
walkers to dine in company to reect on
what they have seen. The historian Lord
Clark had a different opinion. With the
exception of falling in love, he said, There

is nothing else by which people of all
kinds are more united than by their
pleasure in a good view. The millions
who now crowd the great beauty spots
of England testify to that sentiment.
A view is more than a landscape

picture. It is the impact that a
place makes on the human eye
at a particular moment
In travelling across England, I found
my eyes opened and my awareness
overwhelmed by the loveliness of this
country or parts of it. I could recognise
the old familiars. In the south were the
white cliffs of Dover, the Seven Sisters,
Lulworth Cove, Dunkery Beacon. In
the Midlands were the Malverns, Ludlow
and the Cotswolds. In the North were
the great ranges of the High Peak, the
Yorkshire Moors and the Lake District.
I was no less delighted by places
I knew less well, by the intimate Dorset
England has always changed.

Woods have gone and returned.
Fields have been open, then
enclosed, then expanded again
Coquetdale in the Cheviots. These are

places in England every bit as beautiful
as can be found in continental Europe.
The weather may sometimes be poor,
but in two years of travelling England,
I was surprised at how rarely a view was
obscured by rain.
The landscape
of England is
entirely manmade. Nothing
truly wild
remains, except
possibly a
rocky shoreline
and the Dartmoor tors. But some 85
per cent is still rural, fashioned by man
in partnership with nature. The remainder
is now either built over or tamed
by development.
hills, by Exmoors deep combes and

by little-known Shropshire hills such
as the Clees, the Long Mynd and the
Stiperstones. Farther north are the barren
Bempton cliffs of the East Riding, High
Cup Nick in the Pennines and glorious
ittle urban landscape

qualies as a great view. Of
my 100 best, just a fth are
in built-up areas, such as Bath,
Durham, Newcastle and London from
Waterloo Bridge. Britons have done
such damage to the skylines of their
towns and cities since the war that, while
many have lovely quarters, few offer
spectacular views. More attractive are
Englands smaller towns and villages,
such as Chipping Campden, Lavenham
and Richmond, Yorkshire. These
prospects are now carefully conserved
and are presumably with us for all time.
The majority of Englands land area
is rural and vulnerable. It has always
changed over time. Woods have gone
and returned. Fields have been open,
then enclosed, then expanded again.
Everywhere settlement has taken land
out of the hands of nature and placed it
says National Trust

We all care about our own
at the big picture?
in bondage to bricks and mortar. This
bondage is for ever unless some places
become like Angkor Wat (or Detroit)
and do indeed return to the wild.
ngland is the most densely

populated large country in
Europe after the Netherlands.
Yet town and country planning
has for two generations since 1947 kept
a remarkable divide between urban and
Yorkshire and South Lancashire

through derelict land and dejected
housing estates. This is an England
which rm planning and targeted subsidy
should bring back into use. Yet the
adjacent countryside is not just sprouting
wind turbines, silos and warehouses,
but also building sprawl. Recent changes
in government planning policy have
relaxed control on development in rural
areas and left so-called browneld sites
to lie empty.
Alterations
to the landscape
such as these
creep up on us
because few of
us see them as a
whole. We know
our own corner
of England, ght to save it and rejoice
in or regret the outcome. The generality
of the threat is unknown. But it is
intense. The Severn Vale, seen from
the Cotswolds, now has a stain of
sheds creeping up it from Bristol to
Gloucester to Cheltenham. The same
applies to the Vale of Aylesbury and
the entire East Midlands.
PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK
The green belt is to be sacriced

because developers make more
money in the countryside than by
renewing existing housing stock
rural land use. Although an area of
countryside the size of Bristol is urbanised
every year, the remainder of rural
England is still distinctively rural in
character. It shows little of the scattered
bungalows and insensitive hillside
building seen in Ireland or across much
of modern Europe. Planning has been
an English success story.
Most of my rural views are thus in
national parks or so-called areas of
outstanding natural beauty and, as
such, enjoy a measure of protection
from over-rapid change. The rest do not.
But in all cases, protection is proving
inadequate as pressure to develop
grows by the year. There is no shortage
of building land in England. As the
economy moves from manufacturing
to services, huge swathes of industrial
England lie fallow.
It is now possible to drive for
miles across the West Midlands, South
he east midlands is
disappearing under
distribution warehouses.
Bungalows and ill-sited
caravan parks are consuming ever
more of the coast. No fewer than 26
turbines crowd the seaward prospect
from one of Englands loveliest
small towns, Rye. A wall of turbines
is proposed for the Bristol Channel
off the coast of north Devon, lling
the splendid view from Exmoor
to the Brecon Beacons.
Meanwhile the hillsides around

Stow-on-the-Wold in the Cotswolds and
in the Test Valley at Winchester are to
be built on. Precious green belt around
Salford, Durham and Newcastle is to be
sacriced. The reason is not that there
is no land within the connes of adjacent
towns; it is that developers can make
more money in the countryside than
by renewing the existing housing stock.
The same pressures are now invading the
countryside as once sought to build over
Hampstead Heath and resisted the North
Downs becoming a national park.
he english have argued

over the fate of their landscape
for hundreds of years. The
argument gave rise to the
National Parks movement, the National
Trust and the Campaign to Protect
Rural England. More recently it has fed
through to tourist boards and others who
recognise that Englands countryside is
This is one of the most

densely populated
countries in Europe: an
area the size of Bristol
is urbanised every year
not a cost but a resource, a reservoir of
beauty of global appeal. Englands views
are at the apex of that beauty. They are
of incomparable value. It is in everyones
interest that they be preserved.
Englands 100 Best Views by Simon Jenkins
is published by Prole Books at 25
Ontario
awaits
This Canadian wonderland has everything you

need for a luxury holiday, from world-class
dining to elegant reclining
ntario Canadas second largest province

radiates a quiet elegance. It can be
experienced as much in the vibrant
cityscape of Toronto as it is in the lush
Niagara vineyards and the tranquil Muskoka Lakes.
Renowned for its natural beauty, Ontario is a region
to explore and enjoy with the assurance of exceptional
service, ne cuisine and enriching entertainment.
two exciting additions to Torontos eclectic restaurant

scene. Whats more, home-grown chefs such as Mark
McEwan are creating a new style of cuisine that is
bracingly modern and completely Canadian. The
city truly dazzles with a spectrum of exquisite dining
choices set to impress the most discerning gourmand.
Toronto, the countrys cultural and nancial epicentre,

is a heady mix of lustrous hotels, fashionable boutiques,
eclectic restaurants and a sophisticated nightlife.
Cosmopolitan yet unaffected, it is increasingly
attracting the biggest brands and brightest stars in
hospitality. The Shangri-La, Ritz-Carlton, Trump
Towers and the agship Four Seasons hotel have all
recently been unveiled, setting new standards for
accommodation and augmenting Torontos thrilling
skyline with cutting-edge architecture.
With its world-class theatres, art galleries and

museums, Toronto is an inspiring city-break
destination. During the inuential Toronto
International Film Festival, the city features world
premieres, A-list celebrities, spectacular parties and a
celebration of cinema like no other.
Perfectly complementing these hotel openings is the

arrival of award-winning restaurateurs Daniel Boulud
and David Chang. Bar Boulud and Momofoku are just
CITY-BREAK DESTINATION
Poised on the shore of Lake Ontario, the Toronto

Islands are tailor-made for a sun-kissed stroll with
views of yachts cutting gracefully through the water.
And a collection of boutiques in the picturesque
Bloor-Yorkville district continues to delight fashionistas
in search of that perfect pair of Manolos or the
ultimate designer watch. Luxury retail stores Holt
Renfrew and Harry Rosen offer personal shopping

services, as does The Room at The Bay department
store downtown a confection of premium readyto-wear designs and accessories showcased in a
captivating salon. Beyond the city but within easy
reach is spectacular Niagara Falls. A tour by private
helicopter promises a dramatic, rainbow-lled
perspective of one of the worlds natural wonders.
Nearby, Niagara-on-the-Lake is both charming and
historic, with romantic and pampering hotels and
B&Bs that are perfect for honeymooners. The highly
respected summer theatre festival, quaint antique
shops and impeccable restaurants add to the cachet
of this cherished town. The region is also ardent
about winemaking and boasts more than 75 vineyards
in close proximity. Wine-tasting amidst the vines is
a glorious way to sample the fruits of the terroir,
particularly the sweet icewine for which Niagara has
become internationally renowned.
For those keen on sporting activities, prime golf, shing
and hiking are all accessible within two hours drive of
T RAVELLER AD VERT ISEM EN T FEAT U RE
The luxury resorts on Ontarios lakes are the ultimate

indulgent escape. The JW Marriott on Lake Rosseau
the only JW Marriott in Canada is a grand
edice that presides over glassy waters peppered with
pine-tree-covered islands. Replete with water sports
equipment, a golf course, private beach and extensive
spa, the resort calms and
Clockwise from main
connects guests with their
image: Toronto Harbour at
epic surroundings. This
night; helicopter over
corner of Ontario
Niagara Falls; JW
wilderness cocooned by
Marriott The Rosseau
forest and water is as
Muskoka; Toronto dining
rened as it is restful.
Ontario makes the most of
its exceptional natural attributes while offering worldclass hotel, dining and retail experiences. Honeymoon
couples and discerning travellers alike will be
enchanted by the romantic views, welcoming service
and precious moments spent in vibrant Toronto and
the alluring landscape beyond.
PHOTOGRAPH: NIAGARA HELICOPTERS
Toronto. The cottage country of Muskoka is widely

regarded as the Hamptons of the North: both idyllic
and glamorous, it attracts movie stars and moguls to its
multitude of sparkling freshwater lakes. People come
out to play here during hot summers, with sunset
Caesar cocktails on the dock being a much-loved
ritual.
BEYOND THE CITY BUT WITHIN EASY REACH IS SPECTACULAR

NIAGARA FALLS. A TOUR BY PRIVATE HELICOPTER PROMISES A
DRAMATIC, RAINBOW-FILLED PERSPECTIVE OF ONE OF THE
WORLDS NATURAL WONDERS
WIN!
a luxury ve-night break to Ontario!

Ontario Tourism UK has teamed up with North America Travel
Service and British Airways to offer one lucky person a luxury break
in Ontario for two people. The prize includes ights from London to
Toronto, two nights in Toronto and three nights in Muskoka. For more information and
your chance to win go to: ontariotravel.net/ukluxury
A travellers tales
Around the world

with Rebecca Hall
She has theatre in her blood, but the English actress has been busy upstaging Hollywood stars with
roles in Woody Allens Vicky Cristina Barcelona, Ben Afflecks The Town and Iron Man 3
Where have you just
come back from?
Albuquerque in New Mexico, where I
was lming a movie called Transcendence.
What did I think of it? Its just like it is
in Breaking Bad. No, not really! I actually
thought it was vibrant and fun. I was
staying in quite a cool part of town,
the student district, where there
are endless tattoo parlours and
record shops.
Where in the
world have you
felt happiest?
In a ower meadow in
Gloucestershire. I also love
London Fields in Hackney
strangely, theyve been trying to
grow a wild-ower eld there, too.
What do you pack rst?

Im completely impractical, and will
pack my Kindle before a pair of pants.
In fact, I usually forget the pants, but
I always have my Kindle.
even thought about taking a blanket

or two. Why do I do this? Maybe its
some strange compulsion to do with
getting my moneys worth.
Who is the most interesting

person youve met on
your travels?
A long time ago I backpacked around
Egypt and met an incredibly interesting
Bedouin who took me and my
friend Caroline into the desert for
a couple of nights. He was very
resourceful and ended up being
the only one who could get reception
on a mobile phone. For some reason
I found that hilarious.
Copacabana beach was

much more down and
dirty and bizarre than
I thought it would be.
Lots of people exing
their muscles
Name a place that

most lived up to the hype
New Orleans. I expected it to be
exciting and full of amazing music and
adventures, and it was. And also Rio,
where I went on a whim to visit a friend
I think I booked the ight and left the
same day and it was one of the best
decisions I ever made.
And somewhere that least

lived up to the hype
Although I loved Rio, Copacabana
beach was much more down and
dirty and bizarre than I thought
it was going to be. Lots of people
exing their muscles.
Which is your road

most travelled?
Probably the walk between Clerkenwell
and either Columbia Road or Covent
Garden. I walk everywhere in London.
Sightseeing or sun-lounger?
PHOTOGRAPH: EYEVINE
it was going to be like Spring Breakers

or Girls Gone Wild, but it was actually
lovely. The perfect sun-lounger holiday.
I dont think I could do either for

long without feeling the need to do
the other. I had a few days off work
in Albuquerque and decided to go to
Mexico, so I found the ight that would
get me there most efciently, which
turned out to be one to Cabo. I thought
Describe a memory from

a childhood holiday
I remember being 12 and on holiday
with my dad [the director Sir Peter
Hall], my step-mum Nikki and my
little half-sister Emma, who was
about two at the time. We were sharing
a bed, and youd think she would be
catnip to mosquitos because she was
young and squishy and lovely, but
not at all. Annoyingly, she was just
learning to count, and took great glee
in totting up the number of bites I had
each morning.
Do you have a guilty

pleasure when travelling?
Being incredibly lazy. Im not very

lazy generally, but when I get into
that mindset, its like Ive never been
allowed to sit still in my life, and Im
never going to move again.
What would you most like

to nd in your minibar?
Marcona almonds and tequila.
Most regrettable
holiday souvenir?
The shisha pipe I brought back from
Egypt in a backpack. It took forever
to wrap in various items of clothing and
then it broke. I went to great expense to
get it xed, and then couldnt nd any of
the right tobacco to go in it anyway.
Describe your favourite view
How do you relax?
Whatevers outside the nearest window.
Confess to one thing youve

taken from a hotel room
I read books. Im currently reading

My Face for the World to See by Alfred
Hayes. It was rst published in 1958 and
has just been reprinted. He was a British
writer who co-wrote Bicycle Thieves and
ended up living in Hollywood scripting
Alfred Hitchcock Presents. Im about
three quarters of the way through, and
its brilliant. A real gem.
Oh god, lots of things! I apologise to

every hotel Ive ever taken dishes,
cutlery, towels, dressing gowns or
slippers from. A couple of times Ive
Rebecca Hall was speaking to Francesca

Babb. Closed Circuit starring Rebecca
Hall is released on 1 November
I would never,
ever go back to...
Nieuwpoort in Belgium, where we
lmed the TV series Parades End.
It felt very far away and rather desolate,
and I worked too hard.
The view fro m here
I spy, with
my third eye
In search of true romance, Karl Pilkington wangles
himself an invite to an Indian wedding in Bangalore
I was given a traditional-looking suit to wear to the ceremony.
It was pretty fancy, the sort of suit Elvis wore on stage in Vegas,
yet all Ill be doing is making sure some blokes hat is on straight.
It was covered in beads and little plastic pearls. Washing machines
across India must get jammed all the time with people washing
these things. We went to the apartment where the family were
getting ready. I knew it was going to be a long day
9.30am I met Vik the groom. He was having his turban tted.
Vithika and Divya (the wedding planners) explained again that it
was my responsibility to make sure the turban wasnt covering his
eyes. I told them Vik would know himself if it was covering his
eyes as he wouldnt be able to see.
9.50am I was asked to move guests to the roof terrace for the
puja. Candles were lit and rice was sprinkled over Vik for good
luck. Guests dipped their wedding nger into some red powder and
then touched Viks forehead to leave a mark. This is considered
important as it represents the third eye. They believe the usual
two eyes see the outside world and the third sees inside, helping
you trust your intuition. I suppose this is similar to us having a
gut feeling. I go with my gut rather than my head to make
decisions. Maybe they use the third eye in India as they cant trust
their guts due to all the spicy food. Mine had been playing up
since I had arrived: I had a red eye but it wasnt on my head.
11.15am Arrived at the temple. I had to stand by Viks car,
ready to open the door when it was time for him to get out. I
noticed Vithika was watching so I checked Viks turban and gave
her the thumbs up. I heard trumpets being blown. Deepa the
bride had arrived. Divya told me to
welcome people in. If the whole
point of these massive weddings is
to impress, I reckon that with having
me, a white bald man in a magnolia
beaded suit, at every corner, the
guests were just going to think it
had been done on a shoestring. The
trumpets were making a horrible noise. It was similar to the sound
of a wasp trapped behind a curtain when its wings go mental.
11.45am Around 500 people crammed into the temple. I was
hoping people wouldnt start doing speeches. Maybe thats why
the celebration goes on for four days. Divya gave me a plate of
rice to hand out to the guests. This is thrown over the couple once
theyre married. Its better than confetti in a way as its easier to
vac up, and its reusable.
12.05pm Got dragged into the canteen area to help prepare
food. I was put in charge of salt. Where else would someone be
given the job of handing out salt? I know I havent got many skills
but I didnt feel like I was being used to my full potential.
12.30pm Promoted to serve poppadoms.
6.30pm Divya and Vithika showed me round the party venue.
It was about the size of Old Trafford. There was a drinking area
with around 50 tables and 400 seats in front of a stage where
Vik and Deepa would receive blessings, and an area with

stalls serving every type of food you could wish for. My jobs
included making sure candles were always lit. And that everyone
had peanuts.
8pm Vik and Deepa stood on stage as guests queued to shake
their hands. No wonder the divorce rate in India is lower than
elsewhere. I cant imagine many people would want to go
through all this fannying about a second time. Just because you
have a big celebration it doesnt mean the relationship is any
stronger, does it? Look at swans. They dont have a big party
but they stick with their partners for life. Saying that, Ive always
wondered if thats because they all look the same so theres no
point in them running off with another swan.
11pm The food area opened but people were still requesting
nuts. A man in fancy headgear welcomed people imagine a drag
queen Ronald McDonald with a Freddie Mercury moustache. I
didnt see the point.
1am I nally got to use some of
my skills and DJ for 20 minutes. I
used to do this with my mate Makin.
We called ourselves Pilkies Makin
Music. We had blue shiny business
cards, but we never gave them out
as they were too expensive; wed
hand them over to people and get
them to write down the phone number so we could have the card
back. I didnt have any Indian tracks on my iPod but dug out a
few songs I thought any culture could dance to:
Happy Mondays Step On
Desmond Dekker Israelites
Incredible Bongo Band Apache
Prince Alphabet Street
Madness Our House
1.30am Had a bit of a dance. My girlfriend Suzanne always says
Im not good at dancing as I dont know what moves are gonna
come. I suppose I dance in the same way that plankton swims. It
just goes where its taken. Thats how I do most things in life.
Unlike this whole celebration.
This is an edited extract from The Moaning of Life: The Worldly
Wisdom of Karl Pilkington (20, Canongate). His new TV series
The Moaning of Life will be shown on Sky 1 HD in October
No wonder the divorce rate in

India is lower than elsewhere.
I cant imagine many people
wanting to go through this again
&/ ddd
dd d
E tZ /E/
* &
s
&
The 1300-year-old Shore Temple, Mamallapuram one of 3 World Heritage Sites in Tamilnadu, India.
DIPR/948/Display/2013
Thank heavens,
one still stands
tall... protected
just for you.
Centuries ago, travellers wrote of

7 magnificent temples on this shore.
STANDING
out from
THE CROWD
No one delivers the world more beautifully than Celebrity Cruises,

now is the perfect time to step onboard
e all like to stand out from the

crowd, for the right reasons.
Celebrity Cruises has come to
define modern luxury by
consistently delivering exceptional
service and experiences for the past 20
years. The Celebrity Cruises difference
derives from the fact that the entire team
works together to achieve a simple yet
challenging goal: to ensure every
moment of every guests holiday
takes them as far away from the
ordinary as possible.
By the end of 2014, Celebrity Cruises
will have sailed to nearly 300 ports
(80 countries), sailing in the comfort of
11 innovative ships. With ports of call
ranging from Alaska to Aruba and
Valparaiso to Venice, Celebrity Cruises
sets the bar high when it promises to
make your journey as remarkable as the

destinations it takes you to. However,
as the winner of the prestigious 2013
Travel Weekly Globe Award for Best
Premium Cruise Company and 2012
Food & Travel Readers Award (Ocean
Cruise Line of the Year), Celebrity
Cruises is a high achiever.
What awards cant convey is the
inimitable Celebrity Cruises spirit, a
difference that shines through every
element of your voyage. A difference
that derives from recognising that
excellence is as much about what you do
as what you dont do. Service is warm
and attentive, not intrusive; dcor is
modern and luxurious yet comfortable;
innovative restaurants and bars surprise
and entertain but are never pretentious;
pricing is transparent and inclusive.
This winning combination of

contemporary style, unfailing attention
to tiny details, and a splash of humour is
what denes Celebrity Cruises modern,
fun-loving spirit.
While the Celebrity Cruises difference
permeates every ship, guests enjoy a
different experience aboard each one.
If, for example, you seek adventure in the
Galapagos Islands, the 92-passenger
Celebrity Xpedition is for you. The only
major cruise ship operating in this unique
environment, Celebrity Xpedition offers
the safety, accessibility and facilities of an
expedition ship without compromising
on Celebrity Cruises signature style,
luxury and service.
Perhaps youre a wine buff, looking to get
under the skin of a crisp chablis, ery
rioja or an inky glass of port? The

2,046-passenger Celebrity Innity
boasts a superb wine cellar and bevy
of sommeliers as well as 12-night
Immersive Wine Cruises. You could
enjoy a tasting in a Bordeaux chateau,
stroll through sun-baked Spanish
vineyards with a local winegrower and
sip chilled white port overlooking the
Douro River. And, because you sail
from and to Harwich, you can stock up
on some new favourite cuves to savour
back at home.
Maybe you simply want the best of
all worlds: remarkable destinations,
outstanding service and a ship with
unrivalled choice in globally-inspired
cuisine, spacious accommodations
with secluded balconies, bars, cafs,
boutiques and entertainment, a palatial
Clockwise from main image:

lesund, Norwegian Fjords;
Stunning Norwegian coastline;
The Blue Lagoon, Iceland;
Celebrity Cruises can take you
to the world's secret nooks
and crannies; Tuscan Grille
speciality restaurant; Picnics at
The Lawn Club
AquaSpa by Elemis and dedicated

childrens clubs. Oh, and half an acre
of freshly-mown lawn on the top deck,
for enjoying a live jazz concert, freshlygrilled lobster or game of croquet.
Its a tall order but Celebrity Cruises
ve pioneering Solstice class ships offer
this and more.
Happily, the Solstice class Celebrity
Eclipse, winner of nine 2013 Cruise
Critic Awards, will be based in
Southampton through the summer of
2014. This acclaimed ship will offer
clients the opportunity to spend eight
days navigating Norways dramatic
fjords, eleven nights sunning yourself
around the coast of Spain, 14 nights in
the Canary Islands and the Azores and
following in the footsteps of the vikings
and tsars, 14 nights in Scandinavia and
Russia, all without going near an
airport.
Celebrity Cruises appreciates that true
luxury is having the choice to indulge in
as much or as little adventure,
exploration and relaxation as you wish.
Relaxation is easy with numerous pools,
secluded alcoves, the AquaSpa and

nearly one member of staff to each
couple youve barely thought about
that cold drink or pool towel before its
placed in your hand.
When youre ready to explore, theres a
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where to go and what to do. Whether
you join a group excursion, tailor a
bespoke trip with your concierge or
indulge in a new Celebrity Exclusive
experience, youre guaranteed time
well-spent in destinations of your choice.
You could marvel at Egypts pyramids
from the back of a camel, admire Hong
Kong harbour from a traditional
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famous Blue Lagoon or watch the sun
sink into the ocean from Santorini.
The choice really is yours...
Prices start at 1,199pp for
an eight-night Norwegian Fjords
cruise in May 2014 on Celebrity
Eclipse. For more information
visit celebritycruises.co.uk/CNT,
call 0844 493 2047 or contact
your travel agent.
memory
makers
From snow lions to crab legs,

the Ladies and Gentlemen at The
Ritz-Carlton's properties around
the world go the extra mile to make
their guests holidays unforgettable
f you only have a hard-earned fortnight away from

work, youre going to want to make the most of it.
Holidays are increasingly precious as hectic schedules
eat into much-needed downtime, so when you do
manage to get away its invaluable to have someone on
hand to make everything run as smoothly as possible.
And that factor is increasingly key in many travellers
choice of hotel. Beyond the ve-star amenities and
luxurious furnishings, you need a name you can trust.
For many, that name is The Ritz-Carlton.
The hotel group has built a reputation worldwide for
legendary service and its staff are renowned for going
the extra mile. At The Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe, for
example, theres a dedicated

Mountain Concierge to ensure
that guests can check-in and
ski straight out, enjoying
maximum time on those
pristine slopes. Our job is to
anticipate their needs as they
begin and end their day on
the mountain, says Patrick
Alonis. We warm their boots
beforehand, keep their casual
shoes warmed to ensure a
comfortable change when they
return later, and prepare their
skis or snowboard so they
enjoy a seamless transition
from the resort to the slopes.
Patrick is also always on the
lookout for any opportunity to surprise his guests.
I build snow sculptures while theyre out on the slopes.
It is extremely gratifying to see the delight on their
faces as young children ski back in and discover an
igloo or a snow lion.
Clay Beneld, Bell Captain at The Ritz-Carlton
Lodge, Reynolds Plantation, in Georgia, agrees.
When the opportunity arises for our guests to be
blown away, our entire staff will drop what they are
doing to pitch in. Its something he relishes, no matter
what the challenge. A recent guest was celebrating her
birthday, and her heart was set on crab legs for dinner,
he recalls. Because crab legs are served seasonally, an
Images, clockwise
from top left:
Bucolic scenes at
The Ritz-Carlton
Lodge, Reynolds
Plantation in Georgia;
The Ritz-Carlton,
Lake Tahoe; Al fresco
dining at Reynolds
Plantation; The lounge
at The Ritz-Carlton
Lake Tahoe
exhaustive search of the entire community proved

fruitless (and legless). I'm not one to give away my
secrets, but rest assured that night our guest dined
lakeside by a private re... feasting on crab legs.
The pride that Patrick and Clay take in creating
lasting memories for their guests is evident. As Clay
puts it: If theres anything Ive learned working for
The Ritz-Carlton, its that the impossible is always
possible. With an attitude like that, you can rest
assured your holidays will be in expert hands.
For more information, visit ritzcarlton.com/
artofthecraft
Travel geek
Hello sailor
Whether you own a superyacht or a dinghy, with this gear

on board no one will rock the boat. By George Duffield
rifting along by boat is the last vestige of

the old world. The lapping of the waves
slows you down and disconnects you.
There are no frequent-traveller points on water,
only memory-making and fresh air. But in a
delightful twist of fate, the oldest form of longdistance transport absolutely demands the latest
technology. The Geek loves boats and all the
small things required to be comfortable on them.
PARADIVER BACKPACK
BRAVO 4 PUMP
First things rst: the Geek has to keep

his precious items dry on board. The
Paradiver from Samsonite, the master
of enclosing your stuff, is splash proof
and ideal for stuffing with cameras and
iPads. Head into those waves free from
worry. www.samsonite.co.uk, 55
Who doesnt need to blow things

up when sailing/boating/camping?
This bad boy is the best of the small
pumps. Get a good workout while
pleasing your children by inating
an overpriced rubber object that will
burst in 20 minutes. Just dont lend it
out: you will never get it back.
www.force4.co.uk, 16.95
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK
THE DUVALAY
The Geek allows horrendous fashion
violations in the clear instance of
convenience. And what could be more
expedient than a mattress and a duvet
rolled into one? Do I need to go on? You
need this in your sailing boat cabin. Tell
no one. www.duvalay.co.uk, from 99.95
EXPOSURE MARINE 2
A sailors worst-case scenario is drifting
at night through a shipping channel.
Well, apart from being upside down
doing the same. The Exposure Marine 2
torch is the best of a hard bunch, and
can be used to light up your sail and

drastically reduce the odds of being run
over by a Spanish ferry. Its blindingly
bright, totally waterproof, with a handy
power gauge and rechargeable via USB.
www.exposuremarine.com, 199.99
UK TIDES APP
You cant go anywhere near a pub in
the West Country without someone
murmuring about when the neap is on.
In theory this app stops you running
aground. The Geek used it recently. He
still needed to be towed off a sandbank,
but at least knew when he would have
oated away of his own accord. www.
itunes.com, 1.99
Family adventures
EDITED BY DAISY FINER
ON THE ROAD
TO MANDALAY
Explore far-ung shores with your crew, says Lindsay Hawdon
Pony trekking in Burma
ake up in a rustic hilltop retreat to see

a blanket of mist over the valley below,
BEST
the scent of mimosa and ginger on
FOR A
the wind and your six-year-old asking if
WILD NEWE
EXPERIENC
this is what heaven is like. Then, after an
omelette breakfast (eggs fresh from the
coop), set off on horseback through pine-forest
tracks as sunbirds y like torn kites through the air.
Burma may not seem to be the obvious choice for a
family pony-trekking adventure (violent past, turbulent
present, uncertain future, a 10-hour ight and spicy food),
but for something unusual, the mountains around the
old colonial hill station of Kalaw could be the place.
Your guide Cochu will arrive in a leather hat with
a machete swinging from his belt and expertly juggle
stones to entertain children. Novice or consummate
equestrian, it doesnt matter: you can be led or go solo,
walk or canter. Either way, trek through elds of
green tea where women in conical hats are harvesting
the leaves, cowbells clanging as oxen plough up the
land around them. Trot through hill-tribe villages, past
bamboo-stilted houses with squealing piglets and
children who hide their smiles behind their hands and
chase old tyres downhill. This can be a day trip, after
youve explored the Pindaya caves with their 8,000
Buddha images, or a two- or three-day trek, staying
overnight in Hti Tain Monastery where the chant of
praying monks is a morning alarm call. Be prepared
for the unexpected. Your saddle may be rather worn;
your horse strong but a little shabby; your bed a cosy
mattress on the oor. The weather is unpredictable, the
tracks are occasionally muddy and time is expansive
(a two-hour trek can take four). But its
a world away from Western life, like
slipping back into the ancient past,
and it is the highlight on a journey of
highlights that takes in the temples
of Bagan, the white beaches of Ngapali
and tranquil Lake Inle with its
leg-rowing shermen. Get exploring.
Panoramic Journeys (+44 1608 676821;
www.panoramicjourneys.com) offers a
tailor-made Burma trip from 2,495 per
person, including Kalaw, Bagan, Yangon,
Mandalay, Lake Inle and Ngapali
The Elephant Conservation Centre
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; MARTIN MORRELL
rrive here by boat, the wooden

bow slicing through clear
water, and climb the hill to
your room. The accommodation is
a childs dream: a small bamboo hut,
beds with overhanging mosquito nets,
and a veranda with a hammock looking
on to the emerald hills. In the early
hours, youll trek into the rainforest
with Mr Silver, a mahout with a cheeky
grin and a sombrero, passing gigantic
spiders webs jewelled with dew and
coloured birds that it through the
thick canopy of trees. You wont hear the
elephants. They are the land whales,
the moon beasts with crescent tusks.
The leaves part and there they stand.
Watch your childrens faces dissolve
ointments to a wound from a poachers

bullet still lodged in a leg. Youll learn
about ElefantAsia: its mobile units,
breeding programmes and ght to
protect the elephants of Laos. In the
heat of midday, rest in a hammock on
the balcony; sleep, dream or watch as
children play with the mahouts and
make animals out of reed grasses. As
the shadows grow longer and the air
cools, nally, youll get to ride an
elephant back into the jungle. Dont
worry: shell help you on board with
the lift of a leg, and then off you go, the
children ahead of you like true-life
Mowgli kids. At sunset, wash the dust
away on a cruise across
the water. Enjoy a cold
in awe. Look out for

Maredoc, a 60-year-old
grandmother whos name
means ower, chewing
quietly on bamboo. Her
hide is the texture of an old
leather couch. Come feeding
time her trunk will coil like
a saxophone, dexterously
grasping bananas from
little hands. Walk her along
the path that Mr Silver has sliced with
his machete, back down to the river to
bathe: a foray of trumpeting and water
spurts. Then visit the elephant hospital
(the only one in Laos) and help apply
drink and a swim.

Dinner is served in
the upper lodge,
accompanied by an
orchestra of ticking
cicadas. Then fall
asleep beneath a
sky full of stars,
to the sound of
elephants rumbling
softly in the forest.
Audley Travel (www.audleytravel.com;
+44 1993 838125) offers a 13-day Laos
trip from 3,230 per person, including
two nights at the Elephant Conservation
Centre, ights, guides and transfers
BEST
FOR
ANIMAL
ANTICS
BEST
FOR
F
A TASTE O
LOCAL LIFE
Moon Garden
Homestay
Set in an old stone mandarin house on the edge
of a silver lake, surrounded by banyan trees and
cascading frangipani owers, this place is a
rare mix of smart boutique guest-house and
intimate homestay. Upon arrival, sip mint tea in
a cobbled courtyard as your hands and feet are
massaged to ease away travel weariness. Youll
meet Wang, who designed and built the house,
and is always serene and elegantly dressed, and
her family: sisters, nephews, cousins. Toye, her
ever-smiling nephew, will entertain kiddies with
piggyback rides. After youve been shown your
room a smart chalet with antiques and beds
covered in crisp cotton sheets make your own
lunch (spring rolls lled with perfumed mushrooms
and pork wrapped in tapioca noodles) and learn
how to carve a tomato into a rose or a cucumber
into a buttery. In the afternoon, Toye leads
bicycle rides, rst to the local school where your
kids can play chase with village children, then
along bumpy tracks shaded by banana palms.
Youll pass young girls shing for snails, boys for
sh, wading waist-high into reed-clad water
holes. Next, cycle to the village of Duong Lam,
known as the museum of laterite for its ancient
red-brick houses, where you amble around the
dusty Mia pagoda, with 287 Buddhas glinting
in the dark interior. Afterwards, join a local
family for tea and homemade rice sweets. As the
sun sinks over the horizon, lighting up the bricks
in vermilion, pedal back to Moon Garden. Take
a bath in holy basil and lime water and then,
dressed in traditional ao canh silk clothes (good
luck getting boys to put these on), attend the
family prayer session where incense smoke is
wafted over your face. End the day by having
dinner on the terrace with Wang. If you want to
integrate into Vietnamese life, but oorboard
beds and cold bucket showers arent your thing,
this is the place to start. Audley Travel (+44 1993
838140; www.audleytravel.com) offers a 14-night
Vietnam trip from 2,660 per person, including
Hanoi, Saigon, Hoi An, Hue, Halong Bay, two
nights at Moon Garden, ights, guides and transfers
World on a plate... cream
It is not really a subject,

cream, is it? It is more a linking
word, an idea, a feeling. It is the
culinary equivalent of a satin
duvet, a goose-down pillow, a
favourite pair of slippers. It is a
cloak, enveloping an ingredient
in a gentle embrace. Rather than
stepping centre stage, it adopts
avours from all around: think
of it with a dash of Marsala,
pepper and the pan juices of
a steak, or with lemon juice in a thick, perfectly tart posset.
Of course, it does have its own avour or rather, several.
Each country that produces it has a different version: from
France it is crme crue (raw), or crme frache; from the USA,
it will either be thin or long-life and certainly disappointing to
northern Europeans; from India it will most likely be coconut;
from Africa something evaporated, tinned and weirdly delicious
with bottled fruit.
Cream, like oil,
English cream is something
is what separates us
to sigh over, to long
culturally from the
countries of the
for, to come home to
Mediterranean: all
Europeans live in a place of one or the other. If your cream
can last for more than a few hours without refrigeration you
are, by denition, a Northerner, living in cooler climes where
light lingers over long summer days like a gossamer shawl, and
midges rather than mosquitoes are your evening torment.
English cream is something to sigh over, to long for, to
come home to. It takes so many forms the top of the milk
for grannys cereal, single for strawberries, double for treacle
tart, extra-thick Jersey for apple pie, clotted for scones
What makes it so special is a cultural attachment as signicant
as that of scented roses blooming in a cottage garden or the
plunk of leather on willow on a sunny village green.
The turning of the season towards winter transfers our
affection for cream from sweet to savoury. We splash it into
hot soup for richness, or swirl it through collapsed spinach
to soften the mineral bite. Heres a deeply comforting potato
gratin to bury yourself in against the approaching darkness.
POTATO GRATIN
Peel and slice some waxy potatoes to the thickness of a pound
coin. Add to a saucepan with a couple of peeled, smashed garlic
cloves, a few sprigs of thyme, black pepper, a grating of nutmeg
and enough double cream to just cover. Simmer very gently for
10 minutes, until the potatoes begin to soften. Season to taste,
then transfer to a gratin dish, removing any thyme stalks you see.
Flatten the surface, grate over some Gruyre if you like, and
bake in a preheated oven at 200C for
about 30 minutes, until the top is golden
and the cream is bubbling up at the sides.
By Malcolm Gluck
There is nothing quite so
scrumptiously hedonistic as
creamed potato gratin with
grated Gruyre (or cheddar
for that matter). But it is not
a dish I suspect anyone would
pair by itself with a wine. The
gratin deserves to accompany
something equally toothsome
but smokier and gamier. The
something I have in mind
is the Toulouse sausage. This
potent delicacy, hailing from the rugby-mad city of the same
name, is not your normal banger, as it has smoked bacon,
garlic and, sometimes, red wine in it.
The wine to go with this feast must be Beaujolais, because
its underlying freshness and vibrancy are crucial elements
in providing a counterbalance to the richness of the food.
And what is true of a Toulouse sausage in this respect is also
true of our potato gratin. Indeed, while preparing such a
dish, it is a civilised idea to have a white Beaujolais to slurp.
Its an essential aid to the cooks refreshment as he or she
slaves over the stove and fries the sausages, with the gratin
bubbling away in the oven. A superb example is Jean-Paul
Bruns Terres Dores Beaujolais Blanc 2011, made from the
Chardonnay grape. It has a delicious chewiness and a herby
undertone. It is leaner and more elegant than many a white
Burgundy costing a lot more than the 12 charged by its UK
merchant, Robert Rolls of London (www.robertrolls.com).
But a red Beaujolais is what we require for the gratin,
and I would heartily recommend a fascinating (wine-speak
for atypical) example made by a Brit, Helen Lockwood.
Her Maison des Bulliats Rgni 2011 costs around 10 at
North & South Wines (www.northandsouthwines.co.uk) and
would be utterly at
home with the dishes
While preparing this
discussed here and
dish, its a civilised idea
served cold, whats
to have a glass of
more. Beaujolais is
sleeker when lightly
white Beaujolais to slurp
chilled. Majestic
(www.majestic.co.uk) has the delightful Chteau de Pizay
Morgon 2012 (10.49 for a single bottle, 8.39 if you buy
two or more), which has a charcoal-grilled undertone to its
fruit and soft yet frisky tannins. The Beaujolais region is
looking up, with more nely balanced wines and some smart
young winemakers. Two superb examples of this youthful
exuberance, bearing the Beaujolais-Villages appellation,
are Domaine Lagneau 2011, 9.95 at Stone, Vine & Sun
(www.stonevine.co.uk), and Chteau de Grandmont, 10.33
at Christopher Piper Wines (www.christopherpiperwines.
co.uk). Both would make
wonderful marriage partners for
gratin and Toulouse sausage.
PHOTOGRAPHS: THE OBSERVER/THE GUARDIAN; SHUTTERSTOCK
By Joanna Weinberg
THE FUTURE WILL BE HERE

O C T O B E R 1 7- 1 8 , L O N D O N
B O O K N O W AT W I R E D . C O . U K / 1 3
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F O R W I R E D M AGA Z I N E S U B S C R I B E RS
GROW YO U R M I N D
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SINGER-SONGWRITER
A N D M U S I C I N N O VAT O R
J O S H U A D AV I S
US WIRED
CO N T R I B U T I N G E D I TO R
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FOUNDER AND TRUSTEE , THE
R A S P B E R R Y P I F O U N D AT I O N
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COS M O LO G I ST A N D
ASTROPHYSICIST
D AV I D E D WA R D S
FOUNDER OF
L E L A B O R AT O I R E , PA R I S
K AT H R Y N M Y R O N U K
D I R EC TO R O F R E S E A R C H ,
SINGULARITY UNIVERSITY
K E V I N A S H TO N
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L I N DA STO N E
W R I T E R A N D C O N S U LTA N T
MORAN CERF
NEUROSCIENTIST
LANG LANG
CONCERT PIANIST
B E AU LOT TO
NEUROSCIENTIST AND ARTIST
E VA N G R A N T
FOUNDER, SEEPER
ROSALIND PICARD
PROFESSOR, MIT MEDIA LAB
LIAM CASEY
F O U N D E R , P C H I N T E R N AT I O N A L
WA LT E R D E B R O U W E R
FOUNDER, SCANADU
J AC K A N D R A K A
YO U N G I N V E N T O R ,
A M AT E U R S C I E N T I S T A N D
CANCER RESEARCHER
JONAH PERETTI
COFOUNDER,
T H E H U F F I N G T O N P O S T;
F O U N D E R A N D C E O, B U Z Z F E E D
J A N E N D H U L C H AO I N T I G H
I N V E N TO R , S U G R U
CARL BASS
PRESIDENT AND
C E O, A U T O D E S K
M I K E G U N TO N
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R ,
FA C T U A L , B B C
SUNEET TULI
C E O, DATAW I N D , C R E AT O R
OF THE AAKASH COMPUTER
A D A M S A D OW S K Y
ENTREPRENEUR AND MAKER
O F R U B E G O L D B E R G M AC H I N E S
N i c k D A l o i s i o
F O U N D E R , S U M M LY
D E E PA K R AV I N D R A N
F O U N D E R , I N N OZ
D e b R oy
A S S O C I AT E P R O F E S S O R ,
MIT MEDIA LAB; CHIEF
M E D I A S C I E N T I S T, T W I T T E R
BRAD TEMPLETON
C H A I R O F N E T WO R KS &
COMPUTING, SINGULARITY
UNIVERSITY
M O L LY C R O C K E T T
NEUROSCIENTIST
O R E N YA KO B OV I C H
C E O, V I D E R E
MARCO TEMPEST
M U LT I M E D I A I L L U S I O N I S T
N ATA S C H A M C E L H O N E
AC T R E S S
I SA B E L B E H N C K E I ZQ U I E R D O
S O C I A L A N D EVO LU T I O N A RY
NEUROSCIENCE
RESEARCH GROUP (SENRG),
OX F O R D U N I V E R S I T Y
A N C H O R PA R T N E R
S E S S I O N PA R T N E R
PA R T N E R
#WIRED2013
Books
This months best new titles
Rose George begins Deep

Sea and Foreign Going
(Portobello Books, 14.99),
her fascinating account of
the shipping industry, with
the story of her embarkation
at Felixstowe on a cargo ship
bound for Singapore. She sets
out to unpick the paradox of
the ight of the ocean from
our consciousness (we tend
to travel by air or car) at a time
when shipping brings us 90 per
cent of everything. Mixing
general observations with a
description of her journey, this
is a gem of a book, although
it erases most of the glamour
of running away to sea.
Morocco has long been a magnet

for writers and bohemians
of one type or another. In
Tangier: A Literary Guide
for Travellers (IB Tauris, 16.99),
Josh Shoemake has put together
a wonderfully elegant account
of the people and places that
have contributed to the exotic
allure of its most exciting city.
Here in all its tawdry beauty is
what William Burroughs called
the Interzone, where sex, drugs
and rugs are cheap, and the
shades of other writers such as
Paul and Jane Bowles, Jack
Kerouac, Jean Genet and Joe
Orton mingle with each other
and the local inhabitants.
At rst you might think

Nicholas Shakespeares
Priscilla: The Hidden Life
of an Englishwoman in
Wartime France (Harvill
Secker, 18.99) is one of
those World War II woman spy
books weve seen so much of.
But this is a lot darker and more
complicated, delving into
the murky past of the authors
aunt, who (he discovers) came
close to being a collaborator
at the same time as being a
victim of the uncertainties of
war, as so many women were.
A ne book, full of hurried
journeys and secret liaisons, by
one of Britains best writers.
The greatest book on earth
Novelist Jason Webster nominates Hayy Ibn Yaqzan by Ibn Tufayl
A man nds himself

alone on a tropical
island and learns how
to cope, becoming
master both of
his environment
and of himself
as he reaches
powerful
conclusions about life and existence.It is
such a common tale, repeated time and
again from Robinson Crusoe to Cast Away,
that it is part of our cultural DNA. Yet the
story was rst written almost a thousand
years ago by a man from Andaluca. Ibn
Tufayl was a 12th-century philosopher,
By Giles Foden
mathematician, poet, astronomer and physician.

Hayy Ibn Yaqzan (Alive, Son of Awake) was his
most inuential book. Hayy, the protagonist, is
born on an island, suckled by a doe, and reaches
manhood, gaining an understanding of his
world through observation and experimentation
the scientic method. He then becomes
more contemplative, nally gaining an
intuitive knowledge of reality before
his adventures take him away from his
native land. This is a very short book,
and one I often return to: a succinct
argument that travel and experience
broadens the mind. Jason Websters
latest book is The Anarchist Detective
(Chatto & Windus, 12.99)
The story of India rising

(in a capitalist sense)
has been around for
at least two decades now.
Countless travel books
have grappled with the
phenomenon, but Sally
Howards The Kama
Sutra Diaries: Intimate
Journeys Through
Modern India (Nicholas
Brealey, 9.99) is the
rst to focus exclusively
on sexual experience.
Her journey begins in the
deep past, in the erotic
Kama Sutra temples of
Madhya Pradesh, and
continues through the hill
station of Shimla as a seat
of sexual licence during
the Raj, before taking a
look at GIGs (good Indian
girls) and BIGs (bad
Indian girls) in Delhi, as
well as a retirement home
for eunuchs in Gujarat,
cemetery sex in Varanasi,
sex clinics in Chennai,
and bar girls and worse
in Mumbai. There
is much eye-watering,
mind-boggling stuff
besides; it must have been
exhausting to research
all this. You come away
with a strong sense that
sexual behaviour in
the West is fairly narrow
by comparison.
Co mpetition
The concave dips and bowls of this

3,000-square-metre public park call to
mind the inviting indigo pools you might
see on an Aegean shore. But rather
than a leisurely breaststroke, the more
challenging moves practised here include
heelips, McTwists and noseslides. Built
in 2005 and designed by a Portland-born
concrete guru, this place is strictly for
skateboarders only. The undulating urban
landscape is one of more than a dozen
skate spots, including an old brewery,
in a youthful city where almost half the
population is under the age of 35. This
skatepark is located in the Western
Harbour, a newly developed residential
area beside the sea on the site of a former
shipyard. But it was another sporting
arena, about six kilometres south of the
park, that brought the gaze of Europe
and beyond to the city earlier this year.
A 10,000-strong crowd packed into the
venue and about 170 million people
tuned in on TV to see a rival country
take glory in one of the worlds longestrunning music competitions.
Where are you? GRAINNE MCBRIDE
To enter, identify the park, city and country where
the photograph was taken. Correct answers will be
placed in a random prize-draw. For competition
rules and prize details, please turn the page
PHOTOGRAPH: WERNER NYSTRAND
Where
are you?
Co mpetition prize
Reader offer
WIN a spa break

worth 1,500
It would be hard to imagine
a more perfect place for total
relaxation than the Lifehouse
Spa & Hotel. Surrounded by
acres of garden in the heart of
the English countryside, it feels
like a proper escape, yet its only 80 minutes from London.
Enter this months Where Are You? competition and you
could win a spa break for two here. The prize, worth 1,500,
includes overnight accommodation in a Signature double
or twin room, with dinner, breakfast and a light lunch, plus
one personalised ESPA massage and one personalised ESPA
facial per person. The prize is subject to availability and must
be taken before 30 November 2014. Saturdays are excluded,
as are the following dates: 2426 and 31 December, 18 and
20 April, 4 and 5 May, and 24 August. For more information,
call +44 1255 860050 or visit www.lifehouse.co.uk
WHERE ARE YOU?

Identify the location, right,
and send in your entry
to arrive by 30 November.
All correct entries will
also be included in the
Grand Prize draw at the end
of the current competition
period (1 October 2013
30 September 2014).
THAILAND
Save more than 1,600 on a seven-night stay
for two at the beautiful Banyan Tree Phuket
The winner of Augusts Where Are You?

competition is Karen Barnes of Bradford,
West Yorkshire, who identied the location,
left, as Galle Face Green, Colombo, Sri
Lanka. She wins a holiday for two at MAIA
Luxury Resort & Spa in the Seychelles.
COMPETITION RULES
18 or older on the date of entry,
except for employees of Cond
Nast Publications, participating
promotional agencies, contributors
to Cond Nast Traveller, and
the families of any of the above.
Entries by post should be
sent to: Where Are You?
competition, Cond Nast
Traveller, Vogue House,
1 Hanover Square, London
W1S 1JU. Email entries should
be sent to: compcntraveller@
condenast.co.uk
To enter online and for full terms & conditions, visit

www.cntraveller.com/competitions
mong the lofty coconut palms, slender casuarina

trees and sweet-smelling blossoms, Banyan Tree
Phuket looks for all the world like a lovely little Thai
village secreted away along the sparkling shores of Bang
Tao Bay. But this perfectly judged red-roofed property has
everything you want from a super-smart escape just 20
minutes from Phuket airport, with private-pool villas, eight
kilometres of pristine beach and an award-winning spa.
Relax with a holistically focused treatment in an open-air
pavilion, get energised in a yoga class or explore the deepblue waters on a scuba-diving excursion. And after taking
a dip in your pool, reect on a day well spent over dinner
at one of the four restaurants, including Saffron for delicious
Thai dishes and the laidback, lagoon-side Waterfront for
the freshest seafood.
Cond Nast Traveller readers have the exclusive
opportunity to save up to 28 per cent on a holiday at Banyan
Tree Phuket in Thailand. Seven nights accommodation in
a Pool Villa on a bed-and-breakfast basis cost from 2,025
per person, including return ights from the UK, private
transfers and a dinner for two at Saffron restaurant. The offer
is valid for stays until 26 December 2013.
FOR MORE DETAILS OR TO BOOK

Visit www.elegantresorts.co.uk/banyantree
or call +44 1244 897502
PHOTOGRAPHS: WERNER NYSTRAND/FOLIO BILDBYRA; CHRIS SORENSEN
AUGUSTS WINNER
1. Entries for Cond Nast

Travellers Where Are You?
competition can be sent on a
postcard, by email or online
(stating your full name, address
and telephone number), and
must correctly identify the place
described according to the
instructions given. 2. Entries
must arrive no later than the last
day of the month on this issues
cover. 3. The Where Are You?
competition is open to readers
of Cond Nast Traveller who are
TAKE IT EASY IN
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Month-by-month destination calendar

+Hot honeymoons
+Blissful beaches around the globe
The experts
Your travel questions
answered by the Cond Nast Traveller team

a busy, family-friendly beach; nearby, but secluded
enough for peace, Bon Ton resort (www.bontonresort.
com.my) and its neighbour Temple Tree (www.
templetree.com.my) are made up of unique antique
villas, set on the edge of a lagoon.
Q
A
My partner and I are going to a wedding in Kuala Lumpur

in January and were hoping to head to the beach for a
few days afterwards. Can you recommend anywhere?
Make a beeline for the island of Langkawi, above, which has

several of the best beaches in Malaysia: those perfect little
bays you dream of, with low-slung palm trees, white sand
and pink shells at the edge of the Andaman Sea, and tiny
uninhabited islands to which you can kayak and then
pretend youve been shipwrecked. Getting to these little
bays is the only difficulty. Although theyre not private, they
might as well be: theyre surrounded by
dense rainforest full of bold monkeys, and
you need a boat to reach them, or to be
staying in one of the top-end hotels with
direct access. Datai Bay has one of the
most beautiful beaches, and The Datai
(www.thedatai-langkawi.com), with rooms
amid the jungle that encloses it, is one of
South-East Asias most glamorous hotels. At
the other end of the beach is The Andaman
(www.theandaman.com) not quite as slick,
Laura Fowler
but not as expensive, either (get a good deal
Senior editor
by turning up or booking last-minute). Both
CNTraveller.com
hotels practise that joyous system whereby
if you stick a ag in the sand, someone will
come scurrying over to you with iced water, a seafood
salad or a gin and tonic whatever you want.
If you are looking for more action, the holiday hotspot
of Pantai Cenang has lots ofbars and restaurants and
Q
A
Id love to pick up some stocking-llers

when Im in Bangkok but dont want
to spend my time in an air-conditioned
mall. Where else can I go?
For the one-stop shopping experience,
nowhere is more full-throttle than
Chatuchak Weekend Market. Despite its
name, its actually open on Wednesdays
through to the end of the week, but
Saturdays and Sundays are the best time
to visit. The saying goes that you can get
everything here from noodles to poodles
and you probably can, although when
we visited the puppy shop, it was more
Issy von Simson
about pugs and chihuahuas. Grab a
Features
editor
map it may be only marginally helpful
in navigating your way through the
labyrinthine corridors and channels, but its a start.
The market is laid out on a grid with colour-coded zones,
roughly chopped into sections for kitchenware, clothing,
antiques, gardening, etc. With 27 acres of stalls selling
every conceivable item, it can be tricky to pick out the
gems from the tat, and searching for specic shops can
be a bit needle-in-a-haystack, but keep an eye out
for Anyadharu (www.anyadharu.com), makers of lovely
bath oils, The Sleeveless Garden (www.thesleeveless
garden.com) for cool satchels, and Mazmoizelle (www.
facebook.com/mazmoizelleshop) with its surprisingly
cute cork accessories iPhone cases, clutches, notebooks.
For more information, see www.chatuchak.org or pick
up Nancy Chandlers supremely helpful and detailed
guide (www.nancychandler.net).
I am going to Manila for business but would like to extend

my trip with some island-hopping. Where should I go?
The Philippines is made up of 7,000
islands. For a low-key, chilled-out
break, catch the hour-long ight to
Cebu and then hop on the ferry
to Bohol. The Ananyana Resort
and Spa (www.ananyana.com)
is a charming boutique hotel on
Panglao Bay, a 30-minute drive from
Tagbilaran port. Kick back and enjoy
Sophie Stoneham
the beach, tuck into freshly caught
Digital sales manager
grouper for lunch, check into the spa,
or book a day of snorkelling from a local catamaran. If
you want a burst of culture, organise a trip around the
island to climb the Chocolate Hills (where youll meet
engaging tarsier monkeys) and see the beautiful churches
I have a 24-hour stopover in Singapore. How would you

suggest I spend my one night?
If this is your rst visit, make for the SkyPark at the top of
Marina Bay Sands for the sunset. Get a spot at Ku D Ta
(www.kudeta.com), with its 360-degree views of the citys
skyline, and take in the view as it gradually lights up. From
here you can trace the Formula 1 grand prix route, observe
the comings and goings in one of the worlds busiest ports,
With its natural beauty, world-class fishing and diving, eco-adventures, rich history
and fine island cuisine, a week or more in The Florida Keys is exactly what your
A
inner explorer needs.
AD
OR
AM
L
IS
a-keys.co.uk 0208 686 2600
KEY W
EST
BIG PINE KEY & THE LOWER KEYS
MARA
THO
LA
RG
For modern-day explorers,

theres no place like The Florida Keys.
Q
A
and spy on the 50-metre-high steel Supertrees in the Gardens

by the Bay. On a clear day, you can even catch sight of the
nearest islands of Indonesia. Each night theres a light show,
too, so be sure to hang around for that.
For supper, Id recommend PS Caf (www.pscafe.com)
at Ann Siang Hill (there are a several PS Cafs, but this is the
most central), which has a cosy Twenties
vibe with low lighting. The burgers are out
of this world, but my favourite dish is the
Big Nihon salad with soy-cured salmon
and buckwheat noodles. Nearby is Club
Street, full of colonial-style Singaporean
shopfronts that today house some of the
best bars in the city. For something more
casual, take a cab to the Arab Street
neighbourhood and grab some Mexican
food and a Margarita at Piedra Negra
(241 Beach Road).
A unique taste of Singapore can be
found at Lau Pa Sat (www.laupasat.
biz), a Victorian covered sh market
Jenny Cusack
Editorial assistant where street hawkers now ply their
trade its in the heart of the citys
CNTraveller.com
Central Business District, so you can
admire the surrounding skyscrapers while you eat. If youre
unsure what to opt for, satay, chicken rice and chilli crab are
national favourites (as is durian fruit, although I wouldnt
recommend that its notoriously stinky).
KE
PHOTOGRAPH: ALAMY
dating back to the 16th century, when Ferdinand Magellan

claimed the islands for Spain.
To experience another side of the Philippines, try Boracay,
world famous for its white beaches, kite-surng and diving. It
has a bit of a party-hard reputation, but base yourself at the
Shangri-La (www.shangri-la.com/boracay/boracayresort),
with its beautiful private beach, and you can dip in and out.
The nightlife is extensive, so take your pick from the bars
and clubs strung along the four kilometres of White Beach
(divided into boat stations 1, 2 and 3). Start at station 3, the
cheaper and more backpacker-friendly end, and head to Dos
Mestizos for some Filipino-style tapas and sangria, or meet
the expats and hippies at the Red Pirates Pub while sipping
rum and listening to some excellent tunes. Then move on to
Summer Place at station 2 or Cocomangas at station 1 for
merrymaking long into the night. A swim in the crystal-clear
sea the next day will dispel any signs of a hangover.
Holidays should be incredible, breathtaking, exciting, surprising, relaxing, inspiring and so much more.
We understand this; we appreciate the value of time, the ability to re-energise and re-connect
with your friends and family, the opportunity to be calm and for a period in time, truly relax.
The next time you are thinking like this, think of us.
Trapezaki Bay View, Kefalonia
Gran Duchess, Tenerife
El Cano, Costa del Sol
Amazingly beautiful private villas across the world.
ABTA
ABTA No.W3940
jamesvillas.co.uk/luxury
0800 074 03 11
ATOL
ATOL No. 2730
Clockwise from main

image: Villa Aloni,
Kefalonia; Villa
Macarena, Lanzarote;
Villa Agostinho, Algarve
s the nights draw in and winter looms, its the

perfect time to start thinking about escaping to
the sun, whether for a winter sunshine break or
next years summer holiday. James Villa Holidays
is the ideal place to start planning your trip; with over
2,500 villas across 50 destinations worldwide, theres a
house to suit every need, whether a romantic escape for
two or a big family celebration.
MORE THAN JUST LUXURY VILLAS

A holiday with James Villa Holidays means you can
completely relax; a local, unobtrusive rep service is
available in many destinations should you require
assistance, and the level of service offered has resulted
in James Villas being voted favourite villa company at
villa hideaways
,PPHUVH\RXUVHOILQWKHVXQOOHG&DQDU\RU*UHHN,VODQGVWKLVZLQWHUZLWK
-DPHV9LOOD+ROLGD\VRUFDWFKZDYHVLQWKH$OJDUYHZLWKIDPLO\DQGIULHQGV
the Cond Nast Traveller Readers' Travel Awards.
And for those special vacations, James Villa Holidays
has a spectacular collection of over 100 one-off
properties, where absolute luxury comes standard.
If youre looking to break up the winter months with
an escape to the sun, the reliably-sunny Canary Islands
are a great choice. Villa Macarena in Lanzarote is
perfect for a family or group of friends, with a chic,
contemporary feel that runs from the sleek, airy
bedrooms to the gleaming white kitchen, while
the al fresco pool table and hot tub give the
outdoor space a real party feel.
The Greek islands are a perennial favourite, and Villa
Aloni, close to the beautiful harbour-front village of
Fiskardo on Kefalonia, is a stunning property. Inside,
the villa looks like something out of an interiors
magazine, with angular sofas, modern art and a chic
black kitchen. Outside, its all about the wonderful sea
views and the cleverly designed patio spaces and
elegant water features that create a delightfully
cool feeling however hot the temperature.
SPECTACULAR BEACHES
But if spectacular beaches are at the top of your
holiday wish-list, then one of the best places to go is the
beautiful Algarve region of Portugal. Villa Agostinho is
an easy stroll from the soft golden sand of Gale beach,

and with ve bedrooms is ideal for a joint family
getaway. The stunning open-plan lounge area has
oor-to-ceiling glass windows that make the most
of the view across the gardens to
the sea beyond, while the
upstairs terrace is the
perfect spot for beautiful
sundowners at the end of
a perfect lazy day.
For more information

visit, jamesvillas.co.uk
BOOK YOUR STAY AND STEP

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warming vin chaud as you snuggle

up in a candlelit mountain hut.
The exhilaration of nailing that
t r i c k y b l a c k p i s t e . We l l - d e s e r v e d
cheese feasts enjoyed on sun-warmed

terraces surrounded by glittering white
peaks. The swell of pride as you watch
your rosy-cheeked little one shred the
nursery slopes. Sipping champagne in
the hot tub after a day spent punishing
your thighs on the slopes and aprs-ski
bar tables. Whatever defines the joy of
skiing for you, it's hard to beat sunny
days spent in the crisp mountain air for
a n i n v i g o r a t i n g h o l i d a y.
The Alps lapped up the snowiest winter in
a g e n e r a t i o n l a s t y e a r, s p a r k i n g t h e f i r s t
tendrils of growth in the UK ski industry
in five years and making this season look
extremely promising. Ski resorts across
the world are fighting for your attention
and have dramatically improved their
slopes and lifts, launched new hotels,
spas and restaurants, and created
impressive wellness, sports and children's
centres. There simply couldn't be a better
time to spread your snowy wings.
To u r o p e r a t o r s h a v e a l s o p u l l e d t h e i r
ski socks up, providing unprecedented
flexibility and choice of destinations,
accommodation and packages, and some
sorely tempting deals. Whether you pack
up the family and settle into a selfcatered apartment in France, grab some
mates for a rowdy weekend in Austria,
Photograph: Lee Osborne
cross the Pond for some North American

c o r d u r o y a n d p o w d e r, o r s p l u r g e o n a
romantic break in Switzerland there's an
expert at the end of a telephone, poised
and ready to piece together a dream
trip for you. So go ahead, carpe fondue
and carve out some snowy memories to
t r e a s u r e t h i s w i n t e r.
Writer Gabriella Le Breton
Promotions Creative Director Lee Osborne

Promotions Director Victoria Higgins
Promotions Manager Harriet Chubb
PROMOTIONS
Promotions Co-ordinator Celia Thursfield
M a i n i m a g e : P o s t h a u s B a r,
Cafe & Lounge, St Moritz,
Switzerland
This time-honoured choice of ski holiday

accommodation has hit new levels of luxury
1.
Clockwise from top left:
Ferme de Moudon, Les Gets;
Wine cellar at San Lorenzo
Mountain Lodge; Helicopter
at San Lorenzo; Hot tub at
Tr o i s O u r s , M e r i b e l ; B e d r o o m
a t C h a l e t L e T i i n Ve r b i e r.
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table and chauffeuring you the
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not abandon yourself
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M r i b e l ,
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3) COLOURED NOSECOAT, 6.99, ZINKA.CO.UK; 4) PERFECT FACIAL HYDRATING CREAM, 81, AESOP.COM
4.
1.
R e s o r t s a r e m o r e c h i l d f r i e n d l y t h a n e v e r, a n d
t h e r e s a l w a y s a r e l i e v i n g s k i s c h o o l a t h a n d
x
Clockwise from this
xx
S a i n t e
image: The Dining Hall at
F o y ,
Ye l l o w s t o n e L o d g e i n S a i n t e
F r a n c e
Foy; Junior snowboarder
Sainte-Foy is a delicious
wearing Dragon goggles in
antidote to the crowds
Tignes; Alta Badia in the
and sheer size of
Dolomites is a gastro haven
n e i g h b o u r i n g Va l
PRODUCTS: 1) MATCHING MOTHER & DAUGHTER WATERPROOF STINGER BOOTS LO 165, CHILD'S WATERPROOF BRUMBY LO BOOT 105,
BOTH EMUAUSTRALIA.COM; 2) MINT BALMI LIP BALM, 4.99, BOOTS.COM; 3) APX DRAGON GOGGLES, 165, ELLISBRIGHAM.COM
dIsre and Tignes.
3.
Ideal for families,

with affordable
2.
frontier-ski.co.uk; 020 8776
chalets, quiet
pistes and excellent childcare,
Sainte-Foy is also home to
x
xx
O b e r g u r g l ,
A u s t r i a
off-piste so good guides from
of restaurants, bars and shops
xx
8709; vailresor ts.com

x
B r e c k e n r i d g e ,
C o l o r a d o
S a n
xx
C a s s i a n o ,
I t a l y
Va l d I s r e c o m e h e r e o n t h e i r
If your little angels are turning
days off. The fantastic ski-in/
into little rippers, take them to
Tu c k e d i n t h e h e a r t o f t h e
s k i - o u t Ye l l o w s t o n e L o d g e i s
the old Colorado mining town
Dolomites, with a clutch of
he quintessentially
S a i n t e - F o y s m o s t s o p h i s t i c a t e d
of Breckenridge, which turns
ber-luxe and Michelin-starred
Austrian mountain village
chalet, sleeping up to 14 in
ski school into an adventure.
restaurants, it's hardly surprising
of Obergurgl has been
contemporary and luxurious
The tiny ones can play at
that San Cassiano attracts bon
popular with families for
style. Get there this winter
three slope-side childcare
v i v e u r s l i k e G e o r g e C l o o n e y.
50 years, thanks to its gentle
w i t h C a m e l S n o w, t h e n e w
centres while their siblings
Leave your bambinos at the super-
slopes, consistent snowfall,
w i n t e r t r a v e l a r m o f C o r n w a l l s
join the Breckenridge Bombers,
efficient Ski School which, like
friendly ski schools and
watersports spcialists, Camel
learning mountain skills or
e v e r y t h i n g i n t h e S o u t h Ty r o l ,
c h e e r f u l , n o t r o w d y, a p r s - s k i
Ski School. Used to keeping
specialising in freestyle tricks,
blends Italian charisma with
scene. British family specialist
families entertained on the
or dedicated camps like the
A u s t r i a n e f f i c i e n c y, w h i l e y o u
Esprit Ski operates two chalets
water through the summer
popular 'Ski Girls Rock'. Adults
enjoy scenic skiing and romantic
here, packaging flights,
months, Camel Snow brings its
have ample playtime too with
mountain restaurants. Check
transfers and accommodation
experience and chilled-out Rock
the addition of Peak 6 this
into the Rosa Alpina Hotel for
w i t h c h i l d r e n s s k i s c h o o l c l a s s e s
spirit to the Alps
w i n t e r, ' B r e c k ' w i l l b o a s t f i v e
family-friendly suites, connecting
and care in a dedicated crche
c a m e l s n o w. c o m ; 0 2 0 8
mountains and 11 bowls spread
rooms and Clooney sightings
espritski.com; 01483 791
123 2859; saintefoy-
across 2,901 acres of diverse
rosalpina.it; 00 39 0471 849
900; obergurgl.com
tarentaise.com
terrain, in addition to hundreds
500; alta-badia.org
STOP PRESS Vail is a true Colorado classic comprising more groomed terrain than anywhere on the planet, seven legendary Back Bowls, three hundred days of blue skies each year and a rocking village. Book a 14-night holiday to the Lodge at Vail with
Frontier Ski (frontier-ski.co.uk; 020 8776 8709) for complimentary breakfasts and a discount of up to 60 percent on accommodation, saving a whopping 2,960 per couple.
SLOPE MOTION
Supremely positioned above Zermatt, directly

on the piste, the CERVO Mountain Boutique
Resort is a slice of ski, spa and sensory utopia
ermatt delivers a winter sports holiday dream

with rened elegance and exceptional scenery.
Arrive and youll be tempted by challenging
pistes, world-class mountain dining, a buoyant
aprs-ski scene and the most beguiling quality of
all sheer peace and tranquility. The trafc-free
environment lends the village a hushed tone for
total relaxation. If youre looking for more hedonistic
living you wont be disappointed either; the profusion
of champagne bars and nightspots propel it out of
sleepy alpine resort territory and into the realm of chic
international playground. One of the resorts most
notable addresses is the CERVO Mountain Boutique
Resort, part of the Design Hotels group. This
sophisticated ski-side, chalet-style sanctuary is the vision
of Daniel and Seraina Lauber. Check in at this ve-star
lifestyle boutique hotel and be seduced by its relaxed
charm, attention to detail and culinary clout.
HIP HUNTING HEAVEN

Stylistically CERVO is sleek and contemporary but it
pays homage to the surrounding natural environment.

CERVO Resort exterior by
night; CERVO Restaurant;
CERVO Lounge; Master
Suite; Signature Spa Suite
Original wooden oors, honey-hued timber and local

views of the Matterhorn before enjoying sundowners
stone feature heavily. Antlers hint whimsically at the
on the terrace and an exquisite dinner at CERVO
restaurant.
buildings hunting lodge history but are offset by slick
wall-mounted replaces, light-ooded chalets and cleanAnd if you want some serious wow factor and the
lined furniture. Fuse this style with the fact that its the
space to kickback with family, CERVOs imminent new
only hotel to boast direct access to the slopes and the
Sunnegga metro underground funicular, and its clear
chalet launch will be hard to beat. Opening in
the Laubers have struck hotelier gold. Built on the site
December, the new CERVO Suite sleeps up to eight
of a 1940s alpine chalet,
and boasts a huge open plan
READER OFFER
CERVO's rooms and suites
living and dining room with
Book the exclusive White Horn Package and
are modern chalet
chef s kitchen. Theres a
enjoy CERVOs unique Signature Spa Suites
interpretations. The most
master bedroom with ensuite
for two people for seven nights. Package
recent additions are two
bathroom (including sauna
includes six-day ski pass, three 3-course dinners
Signature Spa Suites
and jacuzzi), a double room
at CERVO restaurant (drinks excluded) and one
oases of calm featuring
with ensuite and even a
60-minute massage per person. Prices from
their own private outdoor
designated Playstation room
2,300. For further details visit cervo.ch
terrace with jacuzzi and
to keep the kids entertained.
indoor steam bath. Relax
This is your blissfully
after a days skiing with a
luxurious Swiss home
languid soak in the jacuzzi,
from home.
admiring the spectacular
xx
M e g v e ,
F r a n c e
ver since Baroness
de Rothschild plucked
Paragliding in Megve;
Megve out of Savoyard
View of Zermatt; The iconic
obscurity in 1914 to
St Bernard mountain rescue
create a winter playground
dog; Suite at Les Fermes
f o r E u r o p e a n a r i s t o c r a c y,
de Marie in Megve
the medieval town has been

much more than 'just' a ski
1.
resort. Known as Paris 21st

arrondissement in its 1950/60s
h e y d a y, M e g v e d e v e l o p e d a
restaurant, caf and shopping
scene to entertain its glamorous
guests. That legacy lives on,
supplemented by walking paths,
Nordic skiing, air ballooning
and a truly exquisite hotel, Les

Fermes de Marie. Housed in a
xx
Z e r m a t t ,
cluster of chalets in a Sound
of Music setting, the property
Zermatt was a sleepy farming
boasts the Pure Altitude spa,
community until the 1860s, when
with its exclusive Alpine-inspired
mountaineers started flocking to the
products and sublime treatments

fermesdemarie.com; 0033
457 747474; megeve.com
lofty village under the Matterhorn.
The extra activities are wild, and if it goes

wrong a St Bernard will come and get you
The climbers attempts to summit

t h e To b l e r o n e - s h a p e d p e a k d r e w
PRODUCTS. 1) ARCHIE VALENTINO SUNGLASSES, 150, SUNDAYSOMEWHERE.COM; 2) HAGLOFS VOJD ABS 30L PACK, 800, HAGLOFS.COM: 3) COLLETTE 1812 SUNGLASSES,
89 EUROS, SUNPOCKETORIGINAL.COM; 4) MERINO UNDERWEAR, 25, FINISTERREUK.COM; 5) CHURCH STREET MINK BOBBLE HAT, 270, THE SOHOFURRIER.COM
tourists from across the world,

x
whose appetite for Alpine drama
xx
B a n f f ,
was matched by a desire for plush
C a n a d a
hotels and gourmet dining. The
Banff was founded as a spa
Cervo Mountain Resort channels
town but is now famous for
this heritage, comprising several
the Banff National Park, home
chalets, available separately or as
to glaciers, icefields, granite
a whole and each featuring their
peaks, turquoise lakes, three
own spa, with one housing a cosy
ski resorts, cycling and cross-
b a r, l o u n g e a n d r e s t a u r a n t . F o l l o w
country ski trails and a bevy of
s c e n i c p a t h s t o t h e w o r l d s f i n e s t
wildlife. Unlike European ski
mountain restaurants, ride the
towns, winter is low season in
gondola up the Klein Matterhorn or
Banff, so not only are prices
soak up the views from your terrace

scottdunn.com;
l o w e r t h a n i n s u m m e r,
2.
facilities for non-
020 3468 7399;
skiers compete with
myswitzerland.
those provided on the
com
s l o p e s . T h e r e s d o g sledding, ice-climbing,
ice-diving and nighttime ice canyon
walks as well as
great shopping,
museums,
festivals and,
of course, hot
springs galore
ski-i.com;
5.
0131 516 7005;

travelalber ta.
com
STOP PRESS Book a seven-night break in Aspens Molly Gibson Lodge from just 1,197 per person, including ights, transfers, b&b and daily aprs-ski reception,
saving 30 percent when you book by December 1, 2013 with Ski Independence ski-i.com; 0131 516 7005
4.
3.
EPICproposal
Ski 26 of the best resorts in the world, across four

countries, with just one pass The Epic Pass
week or two spent exploring the cream of the

Colorado ski town crop, long weekends tearing
up the slopes of Courchevel and Les Trois
Valles, a jaunt to St. Anton and the challenges
of Verbier: its a dream winter but one that sounds well
beyond the realms of mere mortals. 'Imagine the cost!'
we hear you gasp. Indeed, the price of lift passes alone
for a few weeks in such prestigious resorts would
ordinarily set you back some 2,000.
However, thanks to the industry-leading Epic Pass,

you could make a winter like this a reality. And, timepermitting, throw down some powdery turns in
California and Utah as well. The unique Epic Pass
enables members to ski in 26 resorts across the world all
winter long from just $709 per adult and $369 per child.
Thats correct, for less than the cost of a six-day pass to
Vail just one of the iconic resorts encompassed in
the Epic Pass portfolio you can enjoy unlimited,
unrestricted access to the diverse Colorado resorts
of Vail, Breckenridge, Beaver Creek, Keystone,
Arapahoe Basin and Eldora.
PHOTOGRAPHS: VAIL RESORTS
ICONIC RESORTS
Clockwise from main
image: Enoying the Vail
powder; Skiing Blue Sky
Basin in Vail; Ski in great
company join US pro
skier Lindsey Vonn and
get your own Epic Pass
Even if we stopped there, the multi-resort pass would

be worth buying for anybody considering more than a
eeting visit to North Americas most popular ski state.
If, however, you have the luxury of spending more time
stateside, or prefer to hit sunny California, the Epic Pass
includes the resorts of Heavenly and Northstar on the
shores of Lake Tahoe and the little town of Kirkwood
with its big mountain skiing. The pass even extends to
the accessible, family-friendly Canyons resort in Utah.
And you havent heard the really clever bit yet.
Our American friends realise how much we prize our
European resorts, particularly after the incredible

snowfalls of last winter. So, new this winter, the Epic
Pass will also give you ve days skiing in Les Trois
Valles, Verbier and St Anton, three of the nest ski
areas in the Alps.
To quote the chaps from across the Pond, the Epic
Pass is a 'no brainer' for anybody who wants to ski
the world in style and appreciates the value of
a really good deal.
For more information, visit epicpass.com
xx
knocking back Steins in the
V e r b i e r ,
MooserWirt, nursing a glhwein
in Underground on the Piste or
o t f o r n o t h i n g i s Ve r b i e r
s i p p i n g a G r n e r Ve l t l i n e r i n
a favourite haunt of
M u r r m e l , t h e r e s a b a r f o r y o u
party-loving celebrities,
here. But St Anton has come

a long way since its grungy
who youll find in the
1.
throbbing Casbah and Farinet
ski bum days, evolving into a
bars, Alpine chic Le Rouge,
sophisticated town with chic
minimalist Neva, and infamous
new hotels, restaurants and
Farm Club, still rocking after

x
50 years. Where to stay when

S t
bars. Stay at the heart of the
xx
aprs action at the classy 17-
A n t o n ,
room Mooser Hotel but book
youre partying like a rock star?
b a r, k a r a o k e m a c h i n e , i n d o o r
S i r R i c h a r d B r a n s o n s p a d o f
pool, hot tubs and 13 staff
course. The Lodge sleeps 18 in
to pander to your inner diva
D e s p i t e t h e F r e n c h t e r m i n o l o g y,
kalumatravel.co.uk;
lavish style and comes with a
oxfordski.com; 01993
A u s t r i a s S t A n t o n i s t h e h o m e
01730 260 263;
vast sitting room, games room,
8 9 9 4 2 0 ; v e r b i e r. c h
of aprs-ski. Whether youre
stantonamarlberg.com
Clockwise from this

image: Fireworks
in Aspen, Colorado;
A u s t r i a
Explode on to the aprs-ski

scene at one of the party
capitals of the mountains
Mooser Hotel in St
A n t o n ; Ta k i n g a b r e a k
in Courchevel, France;
Chalet Edelweiss,
Courchevel
STOP PRESS Heavenly isnt just the name of this California resort, its also the perfect way to describe the jaw-dropping views of Lake Tahoe from Heavenly Mountain Resort's slopes,
and its unique aprs-ski: a sunset cruise on the lake followed by high-octane nightlife (snow.com).
early rooms disappear quickly
1.
2.
PRODUCTS: 1) WOMEN'S NANUK REVERSIBLE JACKET, 290 EUROS, PERFECTMOMENT.COM; 2) RED LINTON ROLL NECK, 70.00, ALANPAINE.CO.UK; 3) TZERA SKI BOOT, 370, Y-3STORE.COM
3.
xx
C o u r c h e v e l ,
F r a n c e
anomaly in America,
offering history and
a party scene to rival
Courchevel does many things
European resorts. The
well: manicured ski slopes,
pretty Victorian cottages
glitzy boutiques, Michelin-
w h i c h l i n e A s p e n s h e a t e d
starred restaurants, vodka and
pavements are as likely
champagne-fuelled parties
to house a celebrity-
And it excels at ultra-luxury
filled Nobu or rocking
c h a l e t s . H o w e v e r, w h e n C h a l e t
cocktail bar as they are
E d e l w e i s s o p e n e d l a s t w i n t e r,
an art gallery or Chanel
i t s u r p a s s e d e v e n C o u r c h e v e l s
boutique. Drop into a
'normal' levels of excess: eight
p o p - u p Ve u v e C l i c q u o t
suites, opulent public areas,
bar on Aspen Mountain,
a state-of-the-art cinema,
grab some truffle fries and
spa and gym spread across
b e e r s o n t h e A j a x Ta v e r n
seven floors. The icing on
terrace and sip cocktails
the cherry on the party cake?
in the hot tub-side 39
The private nightclub, with
B a r. I f y o u r e p i n i n g f o r
a bar and professional DJ
less civilised, Euro-style
booth and space for over 100
aprs ski, you can warm
revellers summitretreats.
the rafters of Cloud Nine
com; 01985 850 111;
Alpine Bistro with a
courchevel.com
raclette and then lift them
A s p e n ,
xx
C o l o r a d o
Aspen is something of an
with schnapps-induced
singing and dancing ski-i.
com; 0131 516 7005;
aspensnowmass.com
1.
3.
If youre a girl (or a guy) who loves to shred powder

more than lettuce, these are the pages you've
been looking for...
2.
xx
C r e s t e d
piped into suites overnight to

B u t t e ,
combat the effects of altitude.
C o l o r a d o
Come morning, a modified cat
at-skiing backcountry
complete with plasma screen
skiing accessed by
and minibar picks guests up
modified snow cats or
from the Lodge to whisk them
piste bashers is often
to a very exclusive playground:
r e f e r r e d t o a s ' p o o r m a n s h e l i -
the privately-owned Mount
s k i i n g ' . H o w e v e r, c a t - s k i i n g
Irwin, with over 1,000 acres
from Scarp Ridge Lodge is
of glades, chutes and bowls
anything but a compromise (or
smothered in virgin Colorado
cheap). The 125 year-old Lodge
powder (from $13,500/8,700
masterfully blends Crested
per night exclusive use for 10
B u t t e s r u s t i c h e r i t a g e w i t h
people, including cat-skiing)
high-tech touches, like oxygen
elevenexperience.com;
00 1 970 349 7761;
per person per week, including
Clockwise from
coloradoski.com
six days' coaching, lift pass,
facing page: Kit
safety equipment and seven
DesLauriers skiing in
nights' catered accommodation)
Chamonix; Airborne
marmottemountain.
at Crested Butte,
com; 0033 682 891523;
Colorado; The hot tub
chamonix.com
at Scarp Ridge Lodge,
xx
C h a m o n i x ,
F r a n c e
handier with a transceiver
than an Aga, you'll have

heard of Kit DesLauriers. The
V a l
Colorado; Chalet
xx
Gentiane, Grimentz
d A n n i v i e r s ,
first person to have skied all

Seven Summits, and the first
The eye-wateringly beautiful
woman and American to ski
A n n i v i e r s Va l l e y i s s o l o s t i n
Mount Everest, Kit is every
time, and so unknown, we
hardcore skier's idol. Thanks
seriously considered not outing
to upmarket Chamonix chalet
the secret here. Dwarfed by
operator Marmotte Mountain,
five mountains over 4,000m,
Kit will be leading a week-
including the mighty Matterhorn,
the perfect base from which
long women's backcountry
Anniviers encompasses 12
to explore the valley's steep
freeride camp in Chamonix
villages, four of which are
couloirs (used as qualifying
this winter (6-13 April 2014).
ski hubs. Grimentz is the
r u n s f o r t h e F r e e r i d e Wo r l d
When Kit isn't shoehorning
largest village, with centuries-
To u r ) , t r e e r u n s , p o w d e r b o w l s ,
per person per week,
you out of your comfort zone,
old chalets, a sprinkling of
hikeable peaks, ski-touring
on a b&b basis) rentalprestige.
tackling Chamonix's infamous
restaurants and hotels and a
terrain and heli-skiing in
com; 0041 27 476 2030;
peaks, couloirs and powder
lone nightclub. It's also home
neighbouring Italy (from 410
myswitzerland.com
bowls, the Marmotte Mountain
to seven chalets operated with
team will cosset you with
flexible catering options by
STOP PRESS Learn to ski or board for free when you book a week-long holiday with Crystal Ski (crystalski.co.uk; 0871
massages, yoga and slap-up
former Powder Byrne boss Will
231 2256) to a choice of 11 resorts in Europe and Canada by 15 November 2013. Complete beginners will receive free
meals (from $3,099/2,680
Herrington. The chalets make
tuition, rental equipment and lift passes.
4.
1/2-page ad here
Make this Winter Memorable

Aspen Snowmass Colorado USA
A prestigious resort with four incredibly varied mountains and a vibrant
historic town offering world renowned shopping, dining and aprs ski Aspen Snowmass is an unforgettable experience!
Travel to Aspen Snowmass this winter with a tailor-made package from
Ski Independence and benet from a huge selection of ights and fantastic
handpicked accommodation with savings of up to 30%.
For a bespoke quotation contact our Aspen Snowmass experts:
0131 243 8097 ski@ski-i.com www.ski-i.com/usa/aspen-snowmass
Image: Aspen/Gordon Bronson
PRODUCTS: 1) GAELLE GILET, 395, MONCLER.COM; 2) UV FACE PROTECTOR, 21.50, KIEHLS.CO.UK; 3) POC HELMET, 250,
POCSPORTS.COM 8CT 4) WHITE GOLD AND HAND-PAINTED ENAMEL SKI GOGGLE CUFFLINKS, 8,250, THEOFENNELL.COM
If you're a woman who's
RED LETTER DAY

To celebrate W Hotels rst foray into Switzerland, W Verbier
will stage a two-week takeover of W London - Leicester Square.
From 25 October - 9 November, the hotel will be restyled
with an alpine-wear pop-up fashion store, W Verbierinspired cocktails, a repurposed gondola cabin and
an interactive photo booth. Follow W London
on Twitter @WLondonHotel.
Wverbier.com
THEA DARRICOTTE uncovers your world
Bobbi Browns Limited

Edition Breast Cancer Awareness
French Pink Set is the perfect
size for when youre on the go
and gives a soft wash of colour
for instant glamour when youre
feeling tired. Plus, 5 from
every sale will also be donated
to the Breast Cancer Research
Foundation.
RRP 35, bobbibrown.co.uk
Want to make a splash

by the pool? The new
Atlas collection from
TIFFANY & CO
will ensure you do: the
rose gold in particular
will take you from pale
to tanned. Atlas Bangle
with Diamonds set in
18k Rose Gold, 7,325,
tiffany.co.uk
LUXURY
FASHION
BANG ON TIME
This aptly named Big
Bang watch from
Hublot is in prime
position on our lust list
this month!
18,200, hublot.com
LADY IN PINK
The Ralph Lauren Pink Pony was rst introduced in 2000 for
breast-cancer awareness month and this October sees it
return to Harrods where 25% of each sale will be donated to
European and Middle Eastern beneciaries. 65,
020 7730 1234, harrods.com
HOLD YOUR BREATH
IN CELEBRATION OF THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY
EXPERIENCE
OF BAROS, SEPP ZEDELMAYER, ONE OF THE

EARLIEST PIONEERS OF DIVING IN THE MALDIVES
WILL BE PERSONALLY GUIDING DIVERS SO THAT
EVERY GUEST PARTICIPATING CAN BENEFIT FROM
HIS EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCE AND DIVING
KNOWLEDGE. ADVANCED DIVERS ONLY, BAROS.COM
FULL TYLT With a fabulous TYLT ENERGI BACKPACK youll never get caught out with a
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VRWKDW\RXFDQWDONRQWKHSKRQHZKLOVWFKDUJLQJLW&RQYHQLHQWO\LWDOVRKDVD]LSSRFNHWRQWKH
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W
W
TRAVEL
LUXURY
PASSION FOR FASHION

These beautiful rings from
the new Pomellato Rouge
Passion Collection look
good enough to eat! 690,
pomellato.com
loves
THE
LUXURY
MANDARIN THANKSGIVING
Calling all Americans! The awardwinning Bar Boulud at the Mandarin
Oriental Hyde Park throws the best
Thanksgiving bash in town. This
year, Executive Chef Dean Yasharin
is going all out with a three-course
menu and pumpkin and pecan
pies. Roll on the 28th! Prix Fixe
menu 45 per person excluding
beverages. barboulud.com/
London, 020 7201 3899
EXPERIENCE
AHEAD BY A MILE
Im all for instant xes and
the couture Hair Extension
Program at Nevilles Salon is
just that! Using hair that has
been ethically sourced from
around the world, the team can
match both texture and colour.
Nevillehairandbeautynet.com,
020 7235 3654
Pick me up
The Marylebone
Tote from Aspinal
perfectly marries
practicality with
timeless chic.
795,
aspinaloondon.com
PICK ME UP
The Boy CHANEL bag has been
reinterpreted for this season
in a more supple version and
is available in four sizes and a
generous variety of leathers or
exotic skins. I cant resist this
gorgeous dove-grey version.
3,080,
020 7493 5040
GOURMET
GQ EATS IS A COOKBOOK FOR MEN OF SERIOUSLY GOOD TASTE

AND WITH A FOREWORD BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL IT DOESNT
DISAPPOINT. THE BOOK IS DIVIDED INTO CHAPTERS BY OCCASION
INCLUDING 'BOY'S NIGHT IN', 'HEALTH-CONSCIOUS CLASSICS' AND
'COCKTAIL HOUR', SO THAT YOULL KNOW EXACTLY WHAT TO
SERVE TO FIT THE MOOD. 20
HEALTH &
Going long-haul? SKIN

is the fashionistas' go-to
brand of choice. Spun
from the softest, organic
cotton, the collection is
irresistibly touchable and
wonderfully comfortable!
skinworldwideshop.com
DOMESTIC BLISS
Travelling a little too much recently?
Neom Luxury Organics have the
answer with their Perfect Night
In bathing collection. The kit not
only sounds divine but contains
a Tranquility Travel Candle and
Tranquility Bath Foam so that you
can enjoy a deeply relaxing bathtime ritual before bed.
22, neomorganics.com
GREECE LIGHTNING
In need of an escape? The Greek Islands were awarded
runner up for Best Islands at our Readers' Travel Awards
2013 and consist of 6,000 islands; only 227 of which are
inhabited, making them a perfect destination. visitgreece.gr
PLAY SAFE SUNUVA SWIMWEAR AND BEACHWEAR PROTECTS YOUR

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TIGERISH
THIS MADISON PRINTED TIGER HAIR CALF
SATCHEL IS PERFECTLY ON TREND FOR
AUTUMN/WINTER 2013.
1,300, 020 3141 8901, COACH.COM
HEALTH & BEAUTY
TO AROMA WITH LOVE

The scientists at Aromatherapy
Associates have just launched a
ground-breaking age-defence
system which delivers results
in just three weeks. The Rose
Innity Collection uses Nobelprize-winning research to
repair, boost collagen and
plump out the appearance of
wrinkles for smoother, youngerlooking skin. From 60,
aromatherapyassociates.com
The new Allegra Bracelet Collection from DE

GRISOGONO comes in pink and white gold
with a leather band offered in a variety of 10
colours. From 9,200, degrisogono.com
FASHION
ARTISTIC LICENSE
Roche Bobois's new collection pays homage
to Jean Cocteau on the 50th anniversary
of his death. Les Enfants Terribles is also
a reference to the artist's novel of the same
name and uses print, embroidery and a mix
of techniques. The range includes cushions,
bed linens, throws and upholstery which
would look at place anywhere in the world
or simply adorning your yacht.
From 100, available at the new
Chelsea showroom, 020 7352 5421
LUXURY
THINKING INSIDE THE BOX

Cosset your jewels whilst you travel with this
utterly beautiful jewellery box from Astley
Clarke. The jewellery box minis are crafted
from luxurious napa leather and lined in
indulgently soft suede cleverly they all t
together within the large weekend case.
From 60, astleyclarke.com
BREAKING THE ICE FANCY AN ADVENTURE? LAUSTRAL SETS SAIL FOR THE ICEFIELDS OF SPITSBERGEN
WHERE ZODIACS WILL TAKE PASSENGERS AS CLOSE AS IT'S POSSIBLE TO BE TO GLACIERS AND ICEBERGS. THE SHIP
THEN HEADS FOR ICELAND ON A NEW ITINERARY FROM GRIMSEY ISLAND, ALONG THE COAST AND SOUTH AS FAR
AS REYKJAVIK. DEPARTS 22 JUNE 2014, 15 DAYS, 14 NIGHTS, FROM 3,926 PER PERSON, PONANT.COM, 0800 980 4027
Dream Destinations
EUROPE-UK
LA SABLONNERIE HOTEL. A convivial
corner of a beautiful island. Gorgeous
gardens, peace and tranquillity, birds,
butteries, owers, horses and carriages
no cars how could one not enjoy this
amazing paradise? You will nd this hotel
to have a great joie de vivre as well as
terric food. La Sablonnerie has recently
received the highly coveted award from
Cond Nast Johansen - Small Hotel of
the Year. Visit www.sablonneriesark.com
or call 01481 832 061.
MELDRUM HOUSE. Set amidst beautiful

countryside, The 4 Gold Star Meldrum
House Country Hotel & Golf Course offers
unrivalled quality. For a weekend break,
Scottish wedding reception, conference or
luxury golf vacation, you can enjoy great
hospitality, ne dining and the tranquillity of
the magnicent Meldrum Estate. T: 01651
872294. Web: www.meldrumhouse.com
OSEA ISLAND Charming

Accommodation 45 miles from central
London. Enjoy The Manor House (sleeps
20), The Captains House (sleeps 16), an
array of period cottages or contemporary
apartments. Find yourself captivated by its
natural beauty. Facilities include a Tennis
court, swimming pool, sauna, and gym.
For more information please contact us on
01621 788593,
reception@oseaisland.co.uk
www.oseaisland.co.uk
NATURAL RETREATS
Providing luxury accommodation, stunning
locations and unrivalled concierge
services, Natural Retreats offer beautiful
places to stay in incredible locations
across Europe and the USA. Their
Cornwall Retreat is a portfolio highlight,
situated on the breath-taking Roseland
Peninsula and offering spacious luxury
villas from 2 to 4 bedrooms with unrivalled
interiors, private balconies

and inspiring
views, located just a short drive from
quaint shing village Mevagissey and top
tourist attractions such as Eden Project
and Lost Gardens of Heligan. Find out
more today at www.naturalretreats.com
+44 (0)8443843166.
Ffynnon Boutique Accommodation.
Perfect for a chic country escape or
luxurious retreat, this sumptuous
accommodation in Wales has all the modcons and lavish treats of the best
boutique hotels and adds personal
hospitality, an intimate atmosphere and
stunning Snowdonia scenery. Tel: 01341
421774. www.ffynnontownhouse.com
Dream Destinations
EUROPE
HOTEL CLAUDE MARBELLA is a

luxurious boutique hotel, set inside a
meticulously restored 17th-century
townhouse. Perfectly placed in the heart
of Marbellas Old Town. Experience this
former artists club with its 7 uniquely
styled rooms, restaurant, patios and roof
terraces. www.hotelclaudemarbella.com
Email: info@hotelclaudemarbella.com
Tel.: +34 952 900 840.
Waltz through period rooms and centuries

of history in this noble Italian villa an
enchanting hotel by the Venetian village of
Arcade. The Count and Countess still relish
holidays in their family home, lapped by
lush parkland on the vine-clothed fringes of
the Montello hills. Mirela will explain its
history, from gatherings by Italy's nobles
and artists to the ravages of WWI. Explore
exquisite rooms of family treasures, ornate
mirrors, open res, coffee tables on dainty
tiptoes, studded leather seats, candles
ickering and tall clocks chiming. Roam
beautiful landscaped grounds before a
breakfast of freshly baked goodies by
Mirela's mother. Or take breakfast in bed
and digest the tree-lined avenues and 18th
century statues, fancy topiary and wroughtiron gates topped by family coats of arms.
Numerous cosy bedrooms are classically
dressed in shades of olive, khaki and wood.
A stylish pizzeria in the old wine cellar
offers organic pizzas; the honesty bar a
range of tipples to sip in the conservatory.
Strike out to Cornuda and Asolo, Treviso,
Venice... or stay and indulge. Call +39
0422.720078 or visit
www.relaisbarcozonca.com.
Dream Destinations
NORTH AMERICA
The Baker House 1650s luxurious and
relaxing environment makes it the ideal
home away from home in East Hampton,
New York. On offer is a range of amenities
including breakfast daily, local beach
access, spa treatments, and concierge
services to cater to every guests needs.
T: 631.324.4081 or email
info@bakerhouse1650.com.
CASA MONTANI is a luxury guesthouse in

the heart of Rome, overlooking the
prestigious Porta del Popolo. Its ve rooms
and exclusive new apartment are beautifully
furnished with the best Italian and French
brands. The atmosphere is very personal
with breakfast served in your room the
perfect haven to stay in while you explore
the city. www.casamontani.com Tel: +39
063 260 0421.
Dream Destinations
AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN

THE ZANZIBAR COLLECTION
Exotic, Luxurious, Zanzibar!
The Zanzibar Collection is a privately
owned collection of beautiful boutique
hotels inspired by the magic of Zanzibar,
lying on one of the Top 30 Island beaches
in the world. Offering a range of water
sports, stunning spas and East Africas
only National Geographic afliated PADI 5
star Dive Centre. Baraza Resort and Spa
was chosen as one of the Worlds 60
Best New Hotels on the Conde Nast
Hotlist 2012.
www.thezanzibarcollection.com
ZURICH
HOTEL RESTAURANT HELVETIA
The boutique hotel Helvetia with its 16
individually furnished rooms is a real jewel
among the citys hotels. The family-run
and individual hotel and restaurant offer a
home from home to business travellers,
city explorers and Zurich lovers alike.
Phone: 0041 (0)44 297 99 98
Web: www.hotel-helvetia.ch
WINCHESTER MANSIONS is an iconic

building on the seafront in Cape Town
within close proximity to the V&A
Waterfront and Cape Town International
Airport. This landmark hotel offers
classically elegant rooms boasting sea or
mountain views. Facilities include a pool,
Ginkgo Spa, signature dishes from
Harveys restaurant and full service
conferencing.
Tel: +27 (0)21 434 2351
Fax: +27 (0)21 434 0215
Email: traveller@winchester.co.za
Web: www.winchester.co.za
Now from only 99 per room B&B
TOMTOM SUITES. A lovingly restored

former convent, Tomtom Suites The Old
Franciscan House is a small luxury hotel
with 20 suites hidden in the central district
of Istanbul. The contemporary interiors
include original artwork and a rooftop
restaurant with views of the Bosphorus
within easy access of the Blue Mosque and
Taksim Square. www.tomtomsuites.com
+90 212 292 49 49
Dream Destinations
AUSTRALASIA & OCEANIA

Amsterdam Boutique Apartments are
self catering design apartments located in
a monumental canal house (1790).
Theyre a minutes walk from the oating
ower market and around the corner from
Spui you couldnt be more in the center
of the historical city. Visit
www.amsterdamboutiqueapartments.com
or call +31 20 7077954.
Set in Andalucias largest natural park,
MOLINO RIO ALAJAR offers freedom in
a rural paradise. Choose from 6 houses
on the estate and walk, swim, play tennis,
taste the local gourmet cuisine or enjoy
the sun. Visit www.molinorioalajar.com or
call +34 959 501282.
AS JANELAS VERDES
Romantic Boutique hotel in the Historic
centre, Just off the National Ancient Art
Museum. 18th century Mansion with a
small garden and Top Floor Library
overlooking the Tagus river. One of the 5
Heritage Lisbon Hotels Collection.
Tel: +351 213 968 143
janelas.verdes@heritage.pt
www.heritage.pt
BUONANOTTE GARIBALDI is a
charming B&B in Rome that embraces
you from the moment you step through
the gate to a patio of Orange trees and
Magnolia. Owner and Fiber Artist Luisa
Longo has a sophisticated touch in dcor;
visitors can buy her silks and hand
painted screens. Tel +39 06 58330733.
www.buonanottegaribaldi.com
THE HUKA RETREATS

www.hukaretreats.com
Three sister properties in South Africa, Fiji
and New Zealand chic and understated
statements of exclusivity and seclusion, all
offering an exceptional hospitality experience
to the worlds most discerning travellers.
GRANDE PROVENCE ESTATE, South
Africa, is located within a one-hour drive
from Cape Town. This 300-year old heritage
estate offers award-winning wines, cuisine
and art gallery with superb accommodation
at The Owners Cottage and La Provenale.
T +27 (0)21 876 8600
E reservations@grandeprovence.co.za
DOLPHIN ISLAND, Fiji offers 14-acres of
Pacific private island beauty, romance and
luxury castaway time for a max. of 8
guests, on an exclusive-use basis.
HUKA LODGE, New Zealand, is famed for
its natural beauty, legendary hospitality and
absolute style since the 1920s. With just
25 rooms within 17-acres of manicured
grounds.
Contact: T +64 7 378 5791
E reservations@hukalodge.co.nz
for both Huka Lodge & Dolphin Island
reservations.
THE BLUE OYSTER
Endless summer, sea and sand, dreaming

under palm trees, aromas of exotic spices,
floating in a completely unknown world. Are
you searching for something new,
undiscovered and untouched? Then there is
no need to look any further. Stay at the small
family-style hotel, The Blue Oyster Hotel, on
the white sandy beach at Jambiani Zanzibar.
Call +255 (0) 783 04 57 96 or visit
www.blueoysterhotel.com
www.CasaAzulHotel.com
Tel: +52 (999) 925.50.16
Mrida, Yucatn
Get ready for the holiday season at our exclusive Women Only
wellbeing retreat set in the beautiful North Yorkshire
countryside. Detox with our weekend breaks. Relax with yoga,
de-stress with meditation, refresh with delicious energising
food. Plus learn how to create your ultimate healthy diet. Join
us to look younger, slimmer and feel fabulous.
For more information visit www.splitfarthinghall.co.uk
or call 01845 597041
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE
Winter Wish List

1
2
8
9
1. THE GOOD GUEST introduces the indoor sleeping bag to take with you
wherever you stay the night. Their beautiful designs are both stylish and
functional saving your host from making up a bed, and you, the washing and
ironing time. Filled with PrimaLoft insulation and lined with Sea Island cotton
you can sleep comfortably within your own sheets. Prices start from 135. For
more information and to see more of their designs visit
www.thegoodguest.com or call 01264 731500.
2. E-M1 the ultimate OLYMPUS. Available now. Visit www.olympus.co.uk or
call 01702 616333 for support.
3. PLOH. A real pleasure to travel with, the Voyage makes for luxuriously snug
and cozy travels. Available in refined neutrals in six sophisticated shades, it
folds up small enough and comes in an elegant silk satin pouch for easy
carrying. Ploh Voyage Cashmere Travel Blanket (50 x 80 in. / 127 x 203 cm).
Available online at www.ploh.com
4. BON VOYAGE KIDS is a one stop holiday shop for children stocking
everything from stylish swimwear to sun cream. Items are stocked all year round so you can pick up those holiday essentials no matter when you travel
www.bonvoyagekids.co.uk
5. TRU VIRTU Oyster. This Aluminium Wallet is the modern alternative to yesterdays outdated leather version, offering a convenient solution for everyone. Separate compartments for
cash and cards are easy to open by pushing the correct buttons, meaning theyre easily accessed as they are safely stored. Its compact size and practical inner life means it fits in every
pocket. It protects against nasty RFID-scanning (illegal detection of personal data saved on your credit card) and against demagnetisation of cards. The trendy ultra-light case is available
in ten cool colours, pick and order yours now at www.stonemarketing.com or call 01732 771 771.
6. Whether you are at the beach, pool, sports club or on a boat, make sure you take one of these beautifully striped and stylish OTTOMANIA hammam towels with you. Large yet
lightweight, they dry quickly and are easy to fold, making them perfect to pack in any bag or suitcase. Plus, they are suitable for daily use in your bathroom at home. Visit
www.ottomania.nl +31 23 5420326.
7. HARLETTE presents its first SWIM collection, launched in Paris. Featuring made with Swarovski Elements, the collection gives a truly luxurious swim experience. Whether poolside at
the Burj Al Arab in Dubai or the Chateau Marmont in Hollywood, beachside in Bermuda, Bondi, Cannes, Ibiza or Positano, no one will have a one piece or bikini as fashion forward as
your SWIM by Harlette. Visit www.harlette.com to view the full collection.
8. BLUE VELVET, the home of contemporary and classic footwear direct from the heart of Europe. Always one step ahead, they have established themselves on their quality and first-rate
service. Visit them at: 174 Kings Road, SW3 4UP or call 020 7376 7442. Visit them online: www.bluevelvetshoes.com
9. EPIPHANIE showcases their latest design, the Sydney bag in Caramel. Three bags in one! Wear over your shoulder, cross-body, or easily transform into a backpack without removing
any straps. Their slimmest bag, stays close to the body for maximum comfort, even while traveling or shooting all day! Every girl needs a Sydney in her camera bag collection.
Accommodates camera body + attached lens, 1 long lens (including 70-200mm), 1-2 smaller lenses, wallet, cell phone, lip gloss, memory cards and keys. Back pocket designed to hold
your iPad! All dividers can be fully removed, so you can easily transition to an every day bag! To order yours now and to view their full collection visit www.epiphaniebags.com or call
001-866-941-2221.
10. THE KINGS GINGER is the emphatically ginger liqueur that was specifically formulated by Berry Bros. in 1903 for King Edward VII. Rich and zesty, it was created to stimulate and
revivify His Majesty whilst exposed to the elements on morning rides in his new horseless carriage and has been appreciated by bon viveurs, sporting gentlemen and high-spirited ladies
ever since. To drive away the winter chill try their Winter Cup; Simmer 30ml of The Kings Ginger with 20ml of cloudy apple juice and 100ml of apple cider for around 30 minutes. Serve
in a brandy balloon with a cinnamon stick to finish. Visit www.thekingsginger.com for more recipe ideas. Available at Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Waitrose or call 0800 280 2440.
10
Searching for the northern lights?

Discover unique locations that offer exceptional
chances of sightings with the aurora experts.
American Ski Holidays
YOUR contact for Catered or self catered Ski Chalet holidays in

Heavenly, Whistler, Breckenridge, Aspen, Snowmass,Vail, Steamboat, Jackson Hole
and Winter Park
For parties of 2 to 22 we can help. Come Ski the Friendly Pistes!
Case of Wine for all bookings made for any chalet for the next ski season (Code CN10)
www.americanskiholidays.com 0333 123 0211

Skiholiday@usa.com
ALPINE INFUSION offer the finest selection

of award winning 5 chalets in Meribel and
Courchevel at the heart of the 3 Valleys in the
French Alps, the largest skiing area in the
world. They offer a 10% discount for all
bookings across the 2013/2014 ski season
(discount code AI13).
For more information, visit
www.alpineinfusion.com
email info@alpineinfusion.com
or call 01844 344955.
Order a brochure at:
discover-the-world.co.uk
Or call 01737
214 283
I C E L A N D | S W E D E N | N O R W AY | F I N L A N D | C A N A D A
ABTA ABTOT AITO
Simple Luxuries
boutique contemporary bespoke gourmet
+33 450 741 392
www.freedomski.co.uk
info@freedomski.co.uk
6580 ST. CHRISTOPH AM ARLBERG

AUSTRIA
+43(0) 5446 2804
STAY@MAIENSEE.COM
WWW.MAIENSEE.COM
Exclusive and sustainable 6* luxury chalet in the heart of the Alps

www.chalet-n.com +43(0)5583 37 9 00
On The Move...
To Africa and the Indian Ocean
M O LO RI S AFARI
To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705
The ideal
year-round family
destination on
South Africas
Garden Route.
This five-suite luxurious retreat lies in the heart of the 75000

hectare Malaria-Free Madikwe Game Reserve In Southern Africa.
Guests who have experienced much and expect the very best
will find a retreat without the pretense one whos essence stems
from extraordinary service, style and comfort, all wrapped up in
a personalised bush experience.
Contact our reservations for further information:
T +27 14 776 8000 / F +27 86 764 7021 / M +27 82 613 5723

reservations@molorisafari.com
www.molorisafari.com
Beach House Iruveli
AT BEACH HOUSE, OUR JOURNEY BEGAN.

Together, our love intertwined with this romantic island sanctuary,
our honeymoon home. Here we have toasted the precious dawn with
Champagne in our beautiful Villa, spent gentle days exploring age-old
traditions of the welcoming local people, shared candlelit laughter whilst
delighting in gastronomy under the sparkling night sky. Our love infused
in every flawless sight, in every delicate sound, in every perfect moment.
Here, at Beach House, we experienced the extraordinary.
We invite you to do the same.
Beach House Iruveli, A Maldivian Sun | Beach House Pasikudah, A Sri Lankan Sun opening 2014
www.beachhousecollection.com
On The Move...
To Africa and the Indian Ocean
INCREDIBLE JOURNEYS
AFRICA
01242 787 800 N www.redsavannah.com
WILDLIFE ADVENTURES AWAIT
Open the door

to Marrakech
www.simonsays.co.za / 5783
Award-winning wildlife reserves with 5-star lodges in South Africa Free-roaming

Big 5, bird watching & flora experiences Game drives &
photographic safaris Family-friendly facilities with
Kids on Safari 3 Explorer Camps 2 day walking
safaris in Big 5 territory, sleeping in mobile
tents Gap year, field guide training
& Shamwari conservation
courses
www.shamwarigroup.com
T: +27 (0)41 509 3000
reservations@shamwarigroup.com
Balanced, rigorous, proud of its architectural perspectives. In the village, near the foothills
of the Atlas mountains. Wake up to the breath-taking view of the Toubkal mountain, snowcapped in the winter or covered in the
summer haze. We present Le Palais Paysan.
www.lepalaispaysan.com 00 212 608 848 404
New Boutique Hotel
On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat
Soulful Retreats in Special Locations
Cornwall, Devon, Somerset, Yorkshire & Europe
Handpicked Villas in the most sought after locations.
Book your 2014 villa holiday now on 020 7401 1054
cvtravel.co.uk
We have the nest villas in

the Algarve and Tuscany
Tel: 01522 889450
www.sun-hat-villas.com
For more information visit:

www.perfectstays.co.uk
or call. 01208 895570
On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat
Private Luxury
Mediterranean Villa
Sleeps 12 people
www.privatevillaspollensea.com
ref VP90
Distinctive
Holiday Rentals
in Europe,
Morocco and
Thailand
PRIVATE PROPERTIES ABROAD
enquiries@ppaproperties.com
Tel: +44 (0) 1423 330533
www.ppaproperties.com
Some of the finest villa

rentals in Tuscany
by Tuscany Now
Handpicked &
personally inspected
villas in the Caribbean
The experts on every property
Toll Free UK: 0845 528 0209

info@exceptionalvillas.com
tuscanynow.com
+ 44 207 684 8884
www.exceptionalvillas.com
On The Move...
Blue Poppy Tours & Treks

Specialising in trips to Bhutan
Experience the beauty and culture of Bhutan, the last Shangri-La,

with Blue Poppy Tours and Treks based in London and Bhutan
www.bluepoppybhutan.com
choki@bluepoppybhutan.com
020 7609 2029
Ealings boutique hotel is a cut above the rest

info@hotelxanadu.com 020 3011 1000
On The Move...
Jane Robinson
Travel Manager
Bespoke cultural itineraries
Luxury worldwide holidays and city breaks
Expert advice for all your travel needs
Fully bonded through ATOL and TTA
Discover the
smiling coast
020 8948 8278 / 07793050991

Jane@hurlinghamtravel.co.uk
http://hurlinghamtravel.co.uk/contact/Jane
SPECIAL OFFER
Explore the Galapagos from the luxury of our 5* hotel
30% DISCOUNT ON ACCOMMODATION only
For a free brochure call
20% DISCOUNT ON PACKAGES

with flexible adventure or chill-out itineraries
Available on bookings made and arriving before 8 December 2013
BOOK TODAY QUOTING RPG2

www.royalpalmgalapagos.com/specialoffers
0845 330 2052

Gambia.co.uk
Expiry date 8 December 2013

Rates are non-commissionable. Flights not included
Handpicked Properties
with Private Pools
A selection of beautiful individual
villas & houses with pools in
tranquil settings & areas of
traditional local culture.
*5((&(63$,1/$1=$527(
%$/($5,&632578*$/)5$1&(
,7$/<&52$7,$
Now in our 23rd year
Call for a brochure or to speak to one of our specialists

2787
01954 261431
or visit our website

www.vintagetravel.co.uk
V5643
BARBADOS
LITTLE ARCHES BOUTIQUE HOTEL
www.screebe.com info@screebe.com
Tel: +353 (0)91 574110
Connemara, Ireland
This award-winning boutique hotel is nestled

on a hideaway bay adjacent to a flawless
white sand beach. The adult-only property
features intimate, al fresco dining in our
rooftop restaurant Cafe Luna. Personalized
service, understated style and romance will
define your stay at Little Arches.
Tel: 1-(246) 420 4689 Fax: 1-(246) 418 0207
Email: paradise@littlearches.com
Web: www.littlearches.com
Divine Retreats proudly presents

GlobalYogaPassport: bringing
together the world yoga community
and offering great deals on holidays,
retreats, classes, equipment
worldwide.
Go to our website to get invited.
www.globalyogapassport.com
www.divineyogaretreats.com
The Dream, Barbados
Some of the worlds most luxurious private

rental Villas, Yachts and Real Estate at your
nger tips.
Telephone 0845 017 6707

www.worldwidedreamvillas.com
EUROPE
Cond Nast Traveller reminds you to ensure that when

booking a package holiday to check that the travel
company has arranged a bond, in order to provide
nancial security through a trade association
(eg ABTA), insurance, or a trust account.
Affordable
luxury
Ever dreamt of working in

Magazine Publishing?
GRADUATED SUMMER 2013?
Join the dynamic Media Sales
team behind the pages of:
Madeira France Italy
Spain
RECRUITMENT
VILLAS
We are currently interviewing

candidates who will be available for
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November 2013
www.condenast.co.uk
SOUTH AMERICA
CHILE TOURS
Tailor-made holidays in Chile,
Argentina, Peru, Brazil and Bolivia
Tel: 020 7730 5959
www.chiletours.org
Email: London.chiletours@btinternet.com
Mallorca
Portugal
Tailor-made holidays to
a delectable collection
of hotels across nine
destinations by air, sea,
rail or accommodation only.
Visit our website for
fantastic special offers
and inspirational ideas
Capri Switzerland Germany
On The
Move...
COMING NEXT
MONTH
IN THE USA:
The Cond Nast Publications Inc.
Chairman: S.I. Newhouse, Jr.
CEO: Charles H. Townsend
President: Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr.
Editorial Director: Thomas J. Wallace
Artistic Director: Anna Wintour
December issue on sale

4 November
IN OTHER COUNTRIES:
Cond Nast International Ltd.
Chairman and Chief Executive: Jonathan Newhouse
President: Nicholas Coleridge
Vice Presidents: Giampaolo Grandi, James Woolhouse
and Moritz von Laffert
President, Asia-Pacic: James Woolhouse
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192 September 2013

Languedoc Fogo Island
Spetses Lake District
Burma Brighton Barcelona
193 October 2013

Readers Travel Awards
Mallorca Outer Hebrides
Toronto Bahia Kerala
NEW THIS MONTH ONLINE

Readers Travel Awards This years winners are online now
Wedding wows Adventure honeymoons after the big day
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PLUS Daily travel news and amazing competitions

Roo m with a view
WHERE ARE WE? MUSTIQUE, ST VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES

TAKEN FROM THE MASTER BEDROOM AT GREYSTONE COTTAGE
We all think Mustique is terrifyingly fancy-pants. Someone once told me it was like Necker but
with a hundred Richards. Only its not, at all. Yes, there are the turbo-villas, the all-singing,
all-dancing multi-mansions. But then there is a groovier, cuter side to the island, too, with houses like this. Greystone is just a
cottage castellated and turreted, but still just a cottage. Designed and built by Swedish architect Arne Hasselqvist, this pocketsized castle is tucked away between bougainvillaea and tumbling hibiscus. The style is laid-back and beachy, with whitewashed
walls, smooth limestone underfoot and a swoop of pebble-lined pool. Up in the larger bedroom, the four-poster looks out on this.
Below is Britannia Bay, where yachts come in and bob about while their sailors make for a Dark and Stormy at Basils. Fill up
both rooms, then do the maths, and it turns out this funky little holiday hotspot doesnt need a billionaires bank balance after all.
your Kawasaki Mule (the house comes with one) and drive down to wild and woolly Pasture Bay
INSIDE TIP Take
early one morning. You cant swim here, but you will have it all to yourself for a picnic breakfast.
Sleeps four, from about 6,050 per week (+44 20 7201 6831; www.mustique-island.com) ISSY VON SIMSON
PHOTOGRAPH: KATE MARTIN
WHY WE LOVE IT
www.carrier.co.uk/traveller

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NOVEMBER 2013 3.

THE BEST BEACH HOUSES

THE COOLEST CITY

T&CO. 2013 0800 160 1837

A drop of N5 and nothing else

South Africa The most

Mongolia Saddle up with the

Moscow Forget seeing

PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID CROOKES

Monte Carlo Sharp,

Waterline beach house, in Noordhoek, South Africa

Contents November 2013

34 Short break Venture to Berlin to

42 Streetwise Via Veneto, Rome

Daisy Donovan stretches her vocal

49 Where to stay Five hotels in the

62 A letter from Melbourne, where

a bookish event comes close to being

65 Style le The coolest ski wear to

70 Counter culture Defy time and

72 Man on a mission Sailing round

November, hunt for truffles in Provence

130 In Britain Swot up on where to

140 Inside track National Trust

144 A travellers tales Around the

146 The view from here Gloomy

151 Travel geek Get on board with the

152 Family adventures Far-ung fun

155 World on a plate Whip up a

157 Books The top travel titles this month

160 Reader offer Save more than

162 The experts Where to nd the

10 Cond Nast Traveller November 2013

79 If you do one thing in.

PHOTOGRAPHS: JULIAN KINGMA; ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG

Truth in Travel is this magazines promise to the reader to be an essential source

Inspired by this months Monte Carlo

David Crookes Photographer, South Africa (p80)

The Carter Suite, Mena House in Cairo. Golden taps,

Simon Jenkins Writer, Inside Track (p140)

While staying at The Ritz-Carlton, Moscow for

Rory MacLean Writer, Short Break Berlin (p34)

Travelling by Concorde to JFK, helicopter

Lisa Linder Photographer, Moscow (p116)

SYNDICATION AND EDITORIAL BUSINESS

The most desirable villas in

Brought to you by The Thinking Traveller

Cant nd Cond Nast Traveller in the shops?

For all enquiries: 020 7499 8856

MANAGING DIRECTOR Nicholas Coleridge

For a list of Hublot stockists in the UK, please telephone

Big Bang Zebra.

Whats hot in Lagos Mexico Marrakech Miami

Rajasthan New York Tasmania

EDITED BY EMILY MATHIESON

PHOTOGRAPH: OBI SOMTO/ORANGE CULTURE

Whatever you want from your winter-sun break,

will have an ice-skating rink and

Metropolitan by COMO, Miami

How is it possible that until now

26 Cond Nast Traveller November 2013

Everyone in Los Angeles knows

PHOTOGRAPHS: MARGOT HARTFORD/GETTY IMAGES; MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES

24 SACKVILLE STREET, LONDON, W1S 3DS

HOTEL DE RUSSIE, ROME

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SEATTLE

THE AUGUSTINE HOTEL, PRAGUE