Conde Nast 2014 08 UK PDF

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AUGUST 2014
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CONTENTS
AUGUST 2014
Features
60
Portugal Our insiders guide

to the best places to stay, from converted
farmhouses to slick, contemporary villas
72 South Africa
Discover the
countrys least explored landscapes on a road
trip along the wild, wonderful Elephant Coast
84 Menorca
Dazzling beaches
and smart hotels are luring Ibiza graduates to
an island with a more laid-back beat
92 Maldives
Swimwear to cover you

from morning dip to beachside sundowner
98
PHOTOGRAPH: MATTHEW BUCK
Provence Follow the scent and

get stuck into the regions edible secrets
The garden at Moonrakers, a holiday house in St Mawes, Cornwall

August 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 3
CONTENTS
August 2014
32
28
84
In this issue
10 Editors letter
110 A travellers tales Around the

world with actor Ethan Hawke
21 Word of mouth The places and

people creating a buzz around the
world, from Jerusalem to Tahiti
28 Short break Leave the car at
36
home for a pedal-powered spin

along the bright and breezy Danish
coast north of Copenhagen
32 Neighbourhood on the up
Art-loving Berliners are making a
beeline for buzzy Linienstrasse
36 Where to stay An exclusive
48
119
rst look at Londons Ham Yard

Hotel; Bed-hopping with Jake Bugg;
The Weekender in Warwickshire;
Sally Shalams Great British Breaks,
from the Dales to the Downs
46 A letter from Ottawa, where

everyone gets a standing ovation but
nobody is quite sure why
On the cover
Cova den Xoroi,
Menorca,
photographed by
Mirjam Bleeker
48 Style file Swimwear designers

give their holiday tips. Jewellery The
latest 100-million-year-old trend.
Beauty Model and actress Kate Upton.
Mens Hitting the road with Long
Islands Harley crew. On the scene
Belmond Hotel Splendido, Portono
59 Trendwatch Cookery schools are

rustling up a new sense of style, with
some of Italys nest taking the lead
4 Cond Nast Traveller August 2014
112 In Britain Why smart summer

holidaymakers are setting a course for
Cornwalls Roseland Peninsula and the
sea-salty village of St Mawes
119 The experts The insider wholl

guide you to the wilder corners of the
Middle East. Gadgets Multi-functional
kit to help you travel light. Family Beach
fun for everyone in the Hamptons.
Feasting The essence of summer:
mackerel on the barbecue, ros in
your glass. Books Giles Foden meets
some larger-than-life explorers in
Africa. Health Diving in Belize, hiking
in Peru and sensational spas in both.
Q&A How to make the most of 10
days in South America, which sun
protection is best for you, and other
travel conundrums
136 Competition Win a 2,000 stay

at the Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi
139 Reader offer Save 15 per cent

on a holiday at any hotel in The
Residence by Cenizaros portfolio
152 View with a room Alila Jabal

Akhdar, Oman
PHOTOGRAPHS: MELANIE ACEBEDO; MIRJAM BLEEKER; MATTHEW BUCK; MATTHEW COLEMAN/IMAGEBRIEF.COM
19 Contributors
LONDON BOUTIQUE, 14A NEW BOND STREET - TEL. (+44) 207 499 22 25
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EDITORS LETTER
o ive fallen in love with Morocco. Is that why Im wearing the silly outt in
this picture? No. Its not like I go to America dressed as a cowboy, or to Egypt
as a sphinx. I am not some kind of Mr Benn. I was actually off to a party for
which the dress code was Casablanca. Or so I thought. I actually had the wrong
night, as usual. Hey-ho. I once misread an invitation for a party that I thought said Italian
chucks; French sluts. I went head-to-toe in black latex (very un-me, but I really wanted to
make an effort, instead of not making an effort, which is my usual). Anyway, I was rather
taken aback when the queue at the entrance to the party was lled with girls wearing
Karen Millen (it was the early 1990s). What was worse, everyone thought I must be part
of the entertainment so kept on expecting me to do something. Which I didnt.
Id been to Morocco before. A couple of times. Once, my then boyfriend and I ended up
staying in a room advertised as being in someones house. It was cheap, and the place
looked lovely in the pictures. But then, of course, we were in fact IN HIS HOUSE. He had
a very high, squeaky voice, like a unoiled door hinge, and a peculiar coterie of friends who
would emerge, as the days rays faded, like lizards, and sit on his terrace drinking tea and looking like
they were about to make a plan that we were not party to. I recognised among the group an aristo who
owned not one but two of the loveliest houses in England. He made no mention of them. Or, for that
matter, of his wife. I was the only girl ever at these gatherings. No one talked to me, or even looked at
me. I feel like a lolly stick. But with no lolly.
Anyway, one night in the main square, amidst the snakes and the orange sellers, wed had some special
tea unawares at one of the stalls, and as we wandered home along the clandestine, labyrinthine streets,
feeling as if the whole of the medina was nothing but a giant house of cards, a large door suddenly opened
to reveal the most amazing sight. A mini-Eden full of palm trees strung with segment-cut lanterns letting
out a tangerine-coloured light, tables covered in patterned bowls overowing with fruits, and clusters
of laughing creatures. And in the corner, on a raised platform, a singer, a man darker than a pit and the
tallest I had ever seen. He must have been seven-and-a-half feet at least. He was also a eunuch. Out of
his towering tree-trunk rootedness, a voice like a madrigal.
We snuck in. The tea had left me peckish, and I managed to nd among the rumpus a huge table laden
with a feast. Stickily I helped myself to dates, piling on my plate great ladles of lamb and apricot and
pomegranate. I couldnt believe my luck. How come youre here? I said as I stuck my nose into another
tagine, to a person I became aware of by my side. Because, she answered grufy, I am the bride and this
is my wedding. I turned. There she was. All in white. At least shed got her outt right on the day.
But no, it was this very recent trip that led me to fall in love with Morocco. The jacarandas in full
electric-purple bloom, the red earth clotted like ladybird blood, the peas and tomatoes singing off the
vines, the gorgeous, funny Moroccans, picking quartz literally out of the earth, having saffron shoved
in my face. And, nally, taking the children to the square with its turn-of-the-century, Leptis Magna,
African-trading-post frisson. Monkeys that bit, and cobras on their haunches, a chameleon with periscope
eyes, piles of tiny turtles sitting on leaves of lettuce. The children were a mixture of horrifed and
entranced. Which was just how I wanted them to feel.
This is the new issue of Cond Nast Traveller. For those who love the pitter-patter heartbeat of an
exotic new love.
Melinda Stevens
Editor
@MelindaStevens3
MelindaLP
WINNER NEW EDITOR OF THE YEAR

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CONTRIBUTORS
Inspired by this months Elephant
Coast feature, we asked contributors
to describe their favourite road trip
Michael Paul Photographer, Provence (p98)

As a boy of 18 in New Zealand I fuelled up my vintage
1934 MG sports car one clear winter night, chucked in a pair
of skis and a warm jacket, and headed to the mountains 350
miles away. As the dawn came up over an active volcano, I
looked on spellbound but half frozen to death. The old MG
had no hood or heater. Michael now lives in London, and is the
author of Sweet Paris, a photographic study of French pastries
Amber Anderson Model, Maldives (p92)
PHOTOGRAPH: JACK LADENBERG
Driving from Antananarivo to the east coast of Madagascar:

it took ve days and we stopped on the way to do a 20km hike
through the rainforest. The reward was seeing 12 different
types of lemur in their natural habitat. An actress and model,
Ambers new lm The Riot Club is out in September
Jasper Rees Writer, Denmark (p28)

The road trip I love best follows the whole coast of
Wales. Its a symphony of sea, beach and mountain,
jagged edges and curving contours. The route is lashed
by rain and smothered by cloud, but the sun keeps
peeping through all the time. Jasper is the author of
Bred of Heaven, a book on Wales and Welshness
Ticky Hedley-Dent Writer, St Mawes (p112)

Ive just spent a month on the road around Northumberland
and Scotland, stopping to walk the blustery Cheviot Hills
and ending up in an Edinburgh pub. It made me realise I go to far
too many places by plane. Tickys debut novel, Murdered in Chelsea,
set in the murky world of London society, is out soon
Nicola Jackson Writer, Elephant Coast (p72)

On honeymoon in Turkey, we hired a beast of a car, an ex-taxi.
We took it on a trip from Istanbul over the Bosphorus, through
the silk markets at Bursa and the hot springs of Pamukkale,
then along the coast to Foa and Assos before looping back to
the Black Sea. A writer and creative director, Cape Town-based
Nicola runs a charity called Knit-a-row-and-go
Martin Kaufmann Photographer, Denmark (p28)

From Basel, crossing high up in the Alps into northern Italy
then weaving along the coast to Liguria and the town of Pigna.
Its only a days drive but there was no rush and the euphoria of
seeing places for the rst time was incredible. Martin lives in
Copenhagen, where he goes sea kayaking as much as possible
WORD OF MOUTH
Whats hot in Tahiti Edinburgh Namibia Jerusalem South America Zambia

EDITED BY FIONA KERR
On the waterfront
Marlon Brandos Polynesian hideaway is now a private-island hotel: we let the man himself* tell the story
Be comfortable. Thats my motto up where I come from. You gonna
shack up here? If you do, itll be more than comfortable. Brando fell for this
12-island atoll, a short hop from Tahiti, while scouting locations for Mutiny
on the Bounty. He bought it in 1967 and built 12 palm-thatched bungalows.
Im going to make him an offer he cant refuse. Okay? Who could say no
to Don Corleone? In 1999 Brando asked a local company to help turn the
place into a world-class eco-hotel. It has taken till now to realise his vision.
This is no fantasy, no careless product of wild imagination. No,
indeed. The Brandos green cred is serious: a net-zero carbon footprint,
a research station for scientists and seawater-cooled air-conditioning.
Man, liquor goes fast in the hot weather. You want a shot? Wed
prefer a Teitora Sunset from Bobs Bar on the beach, named after
Brandos beloved assistant. Something to eat would be nice, too.
What are you, someone that makes sandwiches or something? Why,

no. The bread and butter of The Brandos chef Guy Martin is ne
French food (he also runs two-Michelin-star Le Grand Vfour in Paris).
Tell me, do you spend time with your family? Easily done if you plump
for the three-bedroom villa on Mermaid Bay (there are also 34 one- and
two-bedders on the main island). Activities abound, too, from Polynesian
dance lessons and spa treatments to paddleboarding and nature tours.
The horror. The horror. Actually, it looks like heaven. www.the
brando.com. Villas from about 2,440 per night all-inclusive
*Imagined through his famous lm lines. Quotes, in order, from:
A Streetcar Named Desire, The Godfather, Superman, A Streetcar Named
Desire, The Wild One, The Godfather, Apocalypse Now
WORD OF MOUTH
BOWLED
OVER
MELBOURNE
The Meatball & Wine Bar
This buzzy venue, above and right,
also to be found in the citys suburbs,
serves authentic Italian balls and
wines with a side order of innuendo
Best balls: Chicken meatballs with pesto salsa verde on creamy polenta
LONDON The Bowler

Jez Felwicks fake-grass covered
truck, The Lawn Ranger, left,
visits food markets across the city
Best balls: Great Balls of Fire pork
shoulder and beef chuck with a
spiced red onion and tomato sauce
PARIS
Balls
Opened in January, this
cheeky eatery in the
11th has waiters in
Eat my balls T-shirts
Best balls: Lamb,
coriander, onion and
cumin boulettes with
yogurt sauce
NEW
YORK
The Meatball Shop
Customise your
bowl (choose your
meat, sauce and
side combo), left,
at ve meatballeries
across the city
Best balls: Breakfast
sausage meatballs
with mushroom gravy
on Southern-style biscuits
STOCKHOLM
Meatballs For the People
The chefs at this new deli/restaurant,
left, are passionate about their national
dish and pedantic about meat producers
Best balls: Moose with dill and fennel
seeds, served with mashed potato,
cream sauce, lingonberry jam and
pickled cucumber.
TATTY GOOD
The annual Edinburgh Fringe attracts

comedians from all over the world. Here,
four ones-to-watch share their favourite
locations in the city and back home
SOFIE HAGEN
This Copenhagen stand-up is winning fans and Best
Newcomer awards with her sharp observational tales
MY EDINBURGH: When I was growing up, my best friends
mother would make us delicious curries. The cooking at Mosque
Kitchen, near the university, tastes just like Mrs Al-Sarafs.
MY COPENHAGEN: Behind Christiansborg and the Danish
Jewish Museum, there is an almost secret garden [the Royal
Library Garden]. My favourite bar is Allenberg, where Denmarks
rst comedian, Dirch Passer, used to bring his mistress.
Big Value Early, 31 July26 August, Just the Tonic at Community
Project, Old Foundry Room
YACINE BELHOUSSE
The Paris-based comic will perform his rst all-English show
MY EDINBURGH: The Pleasance Courtyard is the epicentre
of the Fringe and the best place for people-watching.
MY PARIS: I always go to Tlescope, a caf near the Opra
Garnier, which makes the best caf crme in all of Paris.
Made in France, 30 July30 August, Pleasance Courtyard
FELICITY WARD
From New South Wales and a regular on Australian TV shows
MY EDINBURGH: Every Saturday on the Meadows,
theres a man with a van. A French man who sells cheese.
Cheese that stinks. Cheese you will want to marry.
MY NEW SOUTH WALES: The rst place I go is to water:
a lake, the beach, a drinking fountain. If I want to pretend
no one else exists, I walk to Box Head in Bouddi National
Park to watch the stingrays and sea lions.
The Iceberg, 30 July30 August, Underbelly
MICHAEL MITTERMEIER
Takes a tongue-in-cheek look at the soul of Germany
MY EDINBURGH: I go to drink whisky. The only place to do
this is the Whiski Room, which has hundreds of bottles.
MY MUNICH: Schwabing is the coolest neighbourhood. New
bars are always opening, with everything from live music to poetry
and open-mic comedy. I once saw an Austrian Freddie Mercury.
Das Blackout, 1125 August, Gilded Balloon. TIM CLARK
PHOTOGRAPH: CALLUM BENNETTS/REX FEATURES
Burgers have gone

posh, pizzas turned
artisan, and even
hotdogs have been
given a gourmet
makeover. Now, its
the turn of the humble
meatball to get the
gastro treatment.
We pick the tastiest
around the globe
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WORD OF MOUTH
MARKET BITES: JACKOS STREET
FOOD TRUCK CHEF: ASSAF GRANIT
GIVE ME
DEVOTION
Jerusalem isnt just a place for pilgrims. These days, artists,

musicians and foodies are all part of the congregation
HOT TABLES: MACHNEYUDA
THE ARTY ALL-NIGHTER: ISRAEL MUSEUM

PHOTOGRAPH: NIR KAFRI
oly, ancient, divided. Many words spring to mind when

you hear the name Jerusalem, but phrases such as
thriving cultural scene, high-design bars and restaurants
and experimental art spaces are probably less well used.
This summers Jerusalem Season of Culture is drawing
on a renewed artistic energy. From the religious and political
history of the city emerges a unique cultural narrative, says
artistic director Itay Mautner. We try to tell its complex story
through the arts, from sacred to alternative Jerusalem and
everything in between. This means spiritual world music at the
Tower of David, DJs and interactive art at an all-nighter in
the Israel Museum, a pop-up radio station playing underground
bands, and performances in local homes; all with the aim of
bringing the different communities together.
Last year, the citys most talked-about chef, Assaf Granit,
took Israels rst-ever food truck on a three-week tour. This
time, hell cook alongside Palestinian chef Kamal Hashelmon
in a house on the Green Line the former boundary between
Israel and Palestine. Granits restaurant, Machneyuda, on the
edge of Machane Yehuda market, is packed out nightly. If you
cant get in, cross the road to its no-reservations wine-andtapas bar Yudale or admire the industrial-salvage decor at nearby
Jackos Street. At Casino de Paris, cocktails are named after
local places and people, such as the Shuk Hagruzini (Georgian
Market) and the Yitzhak Rabin, made with the late Israeli PMs
tipple of choice, Scotch. The morning after, visit Cafe Chakra,
a buzzy brunch spot with an unusual circular design.
Designers in the City is an artists cooperative with studio
space for 20 young creatives making ceramics, fashion and
jewellery. And in the winding lanes of the Nachlaot area,
the Barbur Gallery exhibits contemporary artists alongside
lm screenings, poetry readings and performances from local
musicians from jazz to hip hop. SIVAN ASKAYO
Jerusalem Season of Culture runs from 10 July to 12 September.
www.jerusalemseason.com
THE FESTIVAL: SEASON OF CULTURE
INSIDER
GUIDE
As the Jerusalem Season of Culture
gets under way, its artistic director
Itay Mautner picks his city highlights
EAT. your way around Machane Yehuda market.
Start with a lunch of no-fuss rice, beans and kube
hamusta (beef-lled dumplings in a lemony soup)
at local workers favourite Azura. At Machneyuda
for dinner, irt with the hostess to get one of the
best tables by the bar, opposite the chef.
DRINK. Arak, the wine of this hot city, best

served with ice and water. The more daring should
try Tubi 60, a drink concocted by the Palestinian
owner of El Bir. After a couple of shots, the bars
mad mixture of anarchists, wealthy Palestinians
and observant Jews will seem quite normal.
STAY. somewhere listed on Airbnb there
is nothing like sleeping in a locals home for
discovering the city. For luxury, the Mamilla Hotel
is a brilliant example of contemporary design
juxtaposed with Jerusalems timeless energy.
BRING. an open mind. Jerusalem is full of layers

and contradictions. Everyone has a different story,
telling truth and lies at the same time. Listen hard
to what is being said between the lines.
TAKE AWAY. a CD of local music from Gali

Taklitim; a one-of-a-kind T-shirt from Uganda
record/comic shop; tahini made in the Old City.
ONE TO WATCH. Gilli Tha Kid, a Jerusalem
DJ/producer and owner of the internet
radio station RaasHHour.
THE HIP BRUNCH SPOT: CAFE CHAKRA
WORD OF MOUTH
ALONE AGAIN, NATURALLY

New safari camps are springing up in some of the most unreachable spots in Africa
frica is the very image of landscape on an epic scale. Yet true

wilderness is getting tougher and more thrilling to nd. Namibias
Skeleton Coast, pictured, is still one of those places where vast dunes
ripple into the distance and desert elephants and lions stalk dry river
beds. Now one of the most remote and previously inaccessible pockets of
this starkly empty space can be explored by guests at Wilderness Safaris
Hoanib Skeleton Coast, a new eight-tent camp which opens this month
in the Kaokoveld Desert. Tanzanias obscure but biggest national park
Ruaha keeps visitor and lodge numbers low, meaning the scenery is
dotted with baobab trees and big game rather than safari four-wheel
drives. Kigelia Ruaha and Kwihala have just reopened with fresh looks
after takeovers by Nomad Tanzania and Asilia Africa. But perhaps the
remotest opening of all is in Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia. A
former royal hunting ground, this 1,390-square-mile reserve is home
to Africas second largest wildebeest migration, where 60,000 animals
converge on the grasslands in November and December. Next year
Norman Carr Safaris plans to open the rst permanent camp here. Called
Kokomo, it will operate for only a couple of months at a time and involve
multiple modes of transport to get here, but for that youll be among the
few hundred people who make it to this untamed corner each year.
Three of the worlds top restaurants are going travelling, but theres no beach time for the chefs
HESTON BLUMENTHAL
RENE REDZEPI
JOAN ROCA
THE TRIP The

Fat Duck in Bray
is ying Down Under
to Crown Melbourne
Resort for six
months from the end
of February 2015.
PACKING The
menu (essentially the same), some of the interiors
and even the sign. When the Duck migrates
home, an outpost of Dinner will open in its place.
PICKING UP A few Australian avours.
Could witchetty grubs, a traditional delicacy
of Aborigines, be the new snail porridge for
wacky-ingredient-fan Heston?
THE TRIP Noma goes nomad, trading

Copenhagens waterfront for the high-rise
Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo from 9 to 31 January.
PACKING Their foraging bags, plus everyone
in the kitchen, including the dishwashers.
PICKING UP Japanese ingredients. Elements
including lily bulbs, tofu and sudachi (a small
lime-like fruit) will feature on an all-new menu.
THE TRIP El Celler de Can Roca is off on

a ve-week tour from August, stopping in Lima,
Peru; Medelln, Colombia; Mexico City and
Monterrey, Mexico; and
the USA. It will start
in Houston and Dallas,
Texas, dishing up a
mix of pop-up meals
and workshops.
PACKING His
brothers Jordi (El
Cellers pastry chef) and Josep (sommelier).
PICKING UP New dishes for their El Mn
starter, a paper globe that opens up to reveal ve
canaps each inspired by a different country.
PHOTOGRAPHS: NATALIE BOOG; JIM BRANDENBURG/GETTY IMAGES
FOOD MILES
SAO PAULO, BRAZIL

CARMO MARCHETTI, CO-FOUNDER OF
LOGO GALLERY
Emerging artists are being inspired by the citys

underground scene. Sesper creates collages from
street rubbish (left), and Fabiano Rodrigues
captures local landmarks in photographic selfportraits while on his skateboard. Visit new art
spaces such as Piv, or wander in Vila Madalena
where there are always galleries opening.
the trends
taking off
and those
running out
of fuel
PARIS
Even more alluring with the
opening of The Peninsula hotel
in August. All eyes, too, on
the big reveal of the new-look
Ritz at the end of the year
INLAND SURFING
A hit along rivers in
Germany and on the USAs
Great Lakes and soon in
Snowdonia on the worlds rst
articial surf lake
MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY
VIVIAN KONIGSBERG, FOUNDER OF
SOA ARTE CONTEMPORANEO
Look out for site-specic work such as Juan

Manuel Rodrguez Arnabals isolated
self-portraits in the cells of the city jail, now
the Espacio de Arte Contemporneo. Also,
Jacqueline Lacasas performances (left) and
Rita Fischers boxes at the Museo Nacional
de Artes Visuales. The Cordn district has
the newest art and bars, and the best chivitos
steak, ham and egg sandwiches.
PIERS
Getting a revamp up and down
the English coast. Going extra
smart next year with New Yorks
SuperPier featuring an Andr
Balazs spa and beach club
VOLCANOES
COLLAGE KIDS
The new storm-chasing.

Get them while theyre hot
with tours to active lava
spots including Ethiopia,
Java and Hawaii
BREAK DOWN FRONTIERS WITH

LATIN AMERICAS ART PIONEERS
FOOD TRUCKS
First, one popped up on a
Royal Caribbean cruise ship,
now TGI Fridays has a truck
on the road across the USA.
Killing the cool
TECHNOPHOBES
Even North Korea has a travel
app for tourists. Smartphones
are your new tour guide
CATTLE CLASS
Three-room residences on
Etihad, ultra-luxe suites on
Air France and a Four Seasons
private jet. No-frills just wont
cut it any more
COLLABORATIONS
With Missoni pulling out
of the hotel business,
are fashion designers hautels
nally going out of fashion?
CARACAS, VENEZUELA
LUIS ROMERO, CO-DIRECTOR
OF ARTIST-RUN OFICINA #1
Confronting the current political

unrest in Caracas has pushed our
creativity. Theres Ivn Candeos
visceral videos of the citys violence
and Sheroanaw Hakihiiws poetic
drawings (left) of the Yanomami
tribes visual language on handmade
paper, which have rescued this
nearly destroyed ancient culture.
The Hacienda La Trinidad a centre
devoted to Venezuelan art and
cultural heritage is an oasis in the
shopping and nightlife mecca of Las
Mercedes.
MELANIE ABRAMS
Radical Geometry: Modern Art of
South America from the Patricia Phelps
de Cisneros Collection runs from
5 July to 28 September 2014 at the
Royal Academy of Arts in London;
www.royalacademy.org.uk
While all eyes are on Brazil for the World Cup, South
Americas modern art is the focus of an exhibition t
his month at Londons Royal Academy of Arts. Radical
Geometry features designs from 20th-century
painters and sculptors including Venezuelas Jess Rafael
Soto, a pioneer in op and kinetic art, and Brazils Hlio
Oiticica, who took art off the walls, creating installations
that the viewer could step inside. An experimental
streak is still evident in the South American art scene;
here, four gallerists give us the lowdown.
BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA
MARIANO LOPEZ SEOANE,
DIRECTOR OF MIAU MIAU
GALLERY
Artists are collaborating with jewellers,

embroiderers and metalworkers.
Amaya Bouquet engraves gold leaf
on glass, and Diana Drake chemically
crystallises her objets dart (below).
Palermo still the most happening
area is home to artists collective
Isla Flotante, while Galeria Patio del
Liceo, a former mall, houses stud ios
and artist workshops.
SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND?
CYCLING IN DENMARK
Jasper Rees slows right down
on a laid-back jaunt in a land of
Viking wilderness. Photographs
by Martin Kaufmann
he churches here tend towards

tidiness. We are in the clutterless
north where the eye is trained to
take a dim view of frippery. The
pews all have doors; graves are enclosed
in their own neatly clipped box hedge. For
evidence of the untoward, you must gaze
upwards. From the vault above the aisle,
there dangles a splendid model of a ship,
its masts enmeshed in rigging, white sails
unfurled, crossing an imaginary ocean.
How quirky, you think. How enchanting.
And yet it seems these vessels are not
merely ornamental. For centuries they
have warded off disaster on the seas
where Denmark conducted its imperial
business. A necessary precaution once
upon a time, but this being peaceable,
carbon-neutral, modern Denmark, you
have to wonder whether that votive ship
might not be replaced by a bicycle.
For all its proximity, Id never been
to Denmark. Nor on a cycling holiday.
It turns out that the two make for a
symbiotic pairing. Where Italy has the
Motorino, the USA the gas-guzzler and
Japan the warp-speed bullet train, the
Danes have long since thrown off
their allegiance to boating and taken
to land-lubbing on two wheels.
The entire country is laid out for their
ease. Its cycle routes are quite distinct from
the death-trap bike lanes back in the
UK, in which you feel you are in a contest
with bigger, badder road users. The
Danes even name and colour-code their
clearly signposted lanes: red for national,
blue for regional and brown for natureplayground routes. They feel less like
common-or-garden rights of way than deeply
embedded ley lines, or neural pathways.
The island of Zealand is parked between
Jutland that bit of Denmark pinned to
the top of Germany and Sweden. The
area north of Copenhagen has castles and
attractions such as the Karen Blixen
Museum in the writers former home. The
whole peninsula has rolling pasture, silvery
lakes, dark woodland and epic sky. Above

all, there is the running commentary of the
sea. For much of the time, you feel as if
you have slipped the moorings of modern
Europe to cycle through a 19th-century
landscape painting. This is especially true
after visiting Copenhagens fascinating
THE LANES FEEL

LESS LIKE COMMONOR-GARDEN RIGHTS OF
WAY THAN DEEPLY
EMBEDDED LEY LINES
OR NEURAL PATHWAYS
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek art museum, where
the walls are lined with ravishing canvases
from the Danish Golden Age by Lundbye
and Kbke, Skovgaard and Rrbye.
The afternoon my girlfriend and I
disembark at the sleepy little town of
Snekkersten, we are greeted by a sandrimmed shoreline into whose warm waters
Above, rural Gribskov. Opposite, clockwise from top
left: the Karen Blixen Museum; Frederiksborg
Castle gardens; Blixens former office; topiary in
the grounds of Frederiksborg; a bike for hire; the
garden and a room at the Blixen museum; lawns
at Frederiksborg; Helenekilde Badehotel
all ages leap from rickety piers. It looks

too hot for cycling. Luckily, the sun
connes itself to a series of pleasing
cameos, putting us in a good mood
without getting in the way. And this can
be a blustery corner of the continent.
Our hired hybrid bikes come with
paniers for carrying necessities. After
breakfast, we leave our B&B through
the back gate and plunge into woods
networked by paths. We join a brown route,
bringing us into open countryside which
shrugs and weaves and gently undermines
our expectation of perfectly at terrain.
North Zealand is hardly the Himalayas,
but dropping to a lower gear is sometimes
necessary, and we are rewarded with the
odd downhill glide, notably after half a
mornings ride down to the glassy banks
of Gurre S and into Fredensborg.
Built in the 1720s to mark a peace treaty
with Sweden, Fredensborg is Denmarks
Versailles, with baroque gardens open all
year round fanning out into woodland
and to the shore of Esrum S. The
elegant white palace itself is home to the
reigning monarch each spring and autumn,
but for a month in summer visitors can
wander through rooms where the much
loved Queen Margrethe II and her
SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND? CYCLING IN DENMARK
IN 1841 A BORED PRINCESS SCRATCHED HER NAME ON A WINDOWPANE. HEADS

French consort eat dinner, put their
feet up by the re and host state banquets.
One feature not present in King Frederick
IVs original design requires sharp eyes.
In the 19th century, Fredensborg was a
summer bolthole for half of Europes
interrelated royalty, and one day in 1841
a (presumably bored) princess scratched
her name on a windowpane. Others
copied her, establishing a tradition. Heads
of state have done it ever since, including
Churchill, Mitterrand, Vclav Havel (who
added a heart beneath his bubbly scrawl),
Bill Clinton and George W Bush.
After cycling back along country lanes
to the coast, we spend a portion of the
afternoon at the impressive Louisiana
Museum of Modern Art, whose lawn
faces the sea, with a huge Henry Moore
taking pride of place on the promontory.
In its labyrinth of galleries, a wideranging collection includes Giacomettis
as austere as canvases by Danish painter
Per Kirkeby are riotously colourful.
We end the rst day by nipping into
the sturdy old town of Helsingr, which
theatre fans will know by its Anglicised
name of Elsinore. Here, bristling on the
shore of resund, is the aggressive-looking
castle Kronborg Slot. Shakespeare never
visited, so far as we know, but two of his
company did, and it was here that he set
Hamlet. The night I pass through, there is
the castles rst-ever screening of Kenneth
Branaghs 1996 lm (shot at Blenheim
Palace). As it starts at 9.30pm, I stay until
the end of the rst act, but its spooky to

see a peroxide Branagh projected onto
a massive screen. (Other Bardic stage
productions pass through each summer.)
On day two, we breeze up the coast
along tracks lined with maritime pines.
There is constant diversion from the
ever-changing spectacle of the sea and
sky, which reaches a climax each evening
as the sun, dropping towards the horizon,
puts on a peacock display of shafts and
shades. This part of Zealand is also a kind
of open-air museum. Houses set back
from the shoreline are bewildering in their
variety. Whether resplendently grand
or more modestly proportioned, they
tend to the elegant and right-angled: the
Danes unimpeachable taste is for formal,
simple design. Building materials extend
from timber and wrought iron to steel
and glass. There are thatched roofs in
profusion, like an array of retro haircuts,
though the Danish eco-authorities
nowadays insist that all new roofs be made
of earth and grass. There seems to be no
restriction on the choice of wall colour.
Cycling through the picturesque villages
of Sletten and Kikhavn, it is clear that
Danes take a pride in their coastline,
and it costs them to do so. There is a
steep sea-view tax for anyone living close
enough to the water. Interestingly, by
Above from left: seaside-style interiors at
Hotel Villa Brinkly; a model ship at the hotel;
Helenekilde Badehotel; the Badehotels
terrace; Hotel Villa Brinklys clapboard exterior
law these coastal homes must all be

in Danish ownership, to keep out the
non-Viking hordes. And yet, despite its
seeming domestication, North Zealand
also aspires to genuine wildness. Beaches
are often at the bottom of steep cliffs, or
hiding on the other side of woodland or
stately dunes. For all the regimentation of
the striped beach huts at Tisvildeleje, the
shape-shifting coast feels only half-tamed
by settlers. This must be the reason why
intrepid explorer Knud Rasmussen made
his home here, at the western end of the
peninsula in Hundested. The father of
Eskimology became the rst European to
cross the Northwest Passage by dog sled.
His house, on a hill looking out to sea, is
now a charming museum dedicated to his
life as a polar adventurer.
The sea also provides unfussy lunches.
If you are in Hornbaek or Gilleleje
when the boat comes in and fruits of the
sea are delivered ashore, in no time,
theyre on your plate, freshly battered,
with chips. Only crustaceans tend to come
unfried. This sort of fare is good fuel for
a daily distance that works out at around
40km (or 25 gentle miles).
The going is pleasurable rather than
strenuous. We amble quite as much as
we accelerate and allow briny breezes
to push us through wheat elds and
marshland, pine forests and deciduous
woods. For the most part, we stay dry,
warm and only moderately windswept.
The destinations abbeys, lighthouses,
OF STATE HAVE COPIED HER EVER SINCE, INCLUDING CHURCHILL AND CLINTON
palaces and those churches with hanging
ships are always worth the journey, but
the journey is also worth it for itself.
Its not all about cycling. One day, when
rain threatens, we put the bikes on one of
the reliable little trains that hoot around
Zealand and head inland to the attractive
lakeside town of Hillerd. It was here at
the start of the 1600s that the resplendent
Frederiksborg Castle was built by King
Christian IV. Much of the interior was
destroyed in 1859 and its restoration was
led by Carlsberg magnate JC Jacobsen,
who proposed that it become a museum
of national history; thus, two oors are
lled with portraits of Danish royalty. It
must be said that in oils and nery they

are less attractive than the average
Dane. The charming chapel and heavily
stuccoed main hall delightfully disprove
ones assumption that Danish taste is all
about austerity. The painting frames have
amusing gargoyles, the walls boast pinkbosomed caryatids, and lining the chapel
are coats of arms which celebrate not
only the blue of blood but also the likes
of Baden Powell and Nelson Mandela.
The palaces baroque garden, rising up
steep banks on the other side of a lake, is
another marvel of symmetry, order and
the national mania for hedging things in.
It is also the setting for one of the trips
most intoxicating bike routes, back to

the coast through the mystical woods of
Gribskov. Light pierces the high canopy.
Autumn leaves carpet the ground.
Sudden, silent lakes glimmer furtively.
We dismount and sit and listen as the
breeze stirs the beeches and birches into
whispered, conspiratorial conversation.
BOOK IT Inntravel (+44 1653 617000;
www.inntravel.co.uk) offers a six-night,
self-guided, hotel-to-hotel cycling trip in
Zealand, from 1,098 per person, based
on two sharing, including six nights on
a B&B basis, four dinners, high-quality
bike hire and maps
STEP IT UP A GEAR
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Villa Brinkly, Snekkersten. Intimate family-run B&B wedged
between the woods and the beach. Handy for Helsingr. +45 4913
2091; www.brinkly.dk. Doubles from about 135
Gilleleje Badehotel, Gilleleje. A comfortable place in a clifftop location.
+45 4830 1347; www.gillelejebadefotel.dk. Doubles from about 160
Helenekilde Badehotel, Tisvildeleje. A superb mixture of ships cabin
and romantic seaside retreat. Worth a weekend away on its own.
+45 4870 7001; www.helenekilde.com. Doubles from about 150
71 Nyhavn, Copenhagen. A cosy converted warehouse with grand
views in a redeveloped waterfront district. +45 3343 6200;
www.71nyhavn.com. Doubles from about 120
WHERE TO EAT
Halsnaes Bryghus, Hundested. Microbrewery serving burgers: a good
pit stop, whatever the weather. www.halsbryg.dk. About 30 for two
Adamsens Fisk, Gilleleje. Fish straight from the harboured boats, with
chips. Strictly outdoors. www.adamsenssk.com. About 25 for two
Francophile, Helsingr. Authentic French bistro with a knowing

Scandi twist in the shadow of Hamlets castle: cuisine paysanne
wearing a Viking helmet. www.francophile.dk. About 60 for two
Gorms, Snekkersten. This relaxed beachside spot dishes up meaty
platters and sizzling pizzas. www.gormspizza.dk. About 50 for two
Hst, Copenhagen. New Nordic cooking with eye-popping avours,
seductive textures and dandy service. www.cofoco.dk. About 65 for two
WHAT TO SEE
Karen Blixen Museum, Rungsted. She once had a farm in Africa, but
when the Danish author lost everything, she returned to her family
home on the coast. Its now an impressive museum. www.blixen.dk
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, Humlebaek. Denmarks nest
collection of 20th-century artworks. www.louisiana.dk
Knud Rasmussens House, Hundested. The great explorer settled in
this modest home on a hill overlooking the sea. www.indmus.dk
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Copenhagen. World-class art with superb
antiquities and 19th-century landscapes. www.glyptoteket.com
NEIGHBOURHOOD ON THE UP
Its bombed-out buildings were once magnets for struggling artists, now this central enclave of
Clockwise from above: a sculpture by Giuseppe Gabellone at

ME Collectors Room in Berlin; KW, a modern art gallery in the
area; woolly creations in Knit Knit on Linienstrasse; the menu
at Paz DAlma, a Portuguese design shop and caf; a street
scene off Linienstrasse; Das Lokal restaurant
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW COLEMAN/IMAGEBRIEF.COM; ASHLEY

LUDAESCHER; AUN TAN/IMAGEBRIEF.COM; PETER ZULLO
WORDS ZOE STRIMPEL
Linienstrasse, Berlin
Germanys hippest city is getting a smart shake-up, with quirky bars and retro restaurants
SLEEP
Located at the precise point
where Linienstrasse soars
in price and coolness, the
light-ooded and spacious
Karlito Apartments are
fantastically good value.
The furniture may look
suspiciously all-Ikea but
everything is bright and
spotlessly clean, and the
ground-oor caf is great
for mid-morning pastries as
well as late-night cocktails.
Linienstrasse 60 (www.
karlito-apartments.de).
Doubles from about 85
the look and vibe of a

boutique, with crisp,
contemporary rooms and
parquet oors. The
restaurant is a major
draw. A cross between
the formidable food
cultures of Tel Aviv and
Paris, it results in fragrant,
fresh dishes: avocado salad
with tangerine; sweet
potato with pistachio and
cumin yogurt. Torstrasse
136 (+49 30 5302 8080;
www.amanogroup.de).
With a fun, if brash,

tech-luxe style, The
Weinmeister attracts
media entrepreneurs and
creative types who require
Macs instead of TVs,
breakfast on demand at
any time of day and drinks
long into the night. Theres
a bar on the rooftop and
another downstairs,
named after German lm
star and Weinmeister
regular Jessica Schwarz.
Among the usual
offerings, it serves herbal
liqueurs made from a
recipe handed down
through Schwarzs own
family. Weinmeisterstrasse
2 (+49 30 7556 6710;
www.the-weinmeister.com).
The rustic-minimalist
all-Italian bar Muret Le
Barba offers wine from
a menu broken down into
grape, region and taste
prole: mix and match or
just explain what you fancy
to one of the Englishspeaking waiters. The
wine goes particularly well
with plates of delicious
antipasti, such as the
explodingly milky burrata.
Arrive very early or late
to snag a spot at the small
white bar, framed by a
wall of bottles and in
full view of the kitchen
counter. Rosenthaler Strasse
61 (+49 30 2809 7212;
www.muretlabarba.de)
Smaller, quieter and

more elegant than its older
and bolder nearby sister
Amano, Mani has the
smoothly run services
of a business hotel but
DRINK
Low-lit and glamorous,

Austrian-owned Cordobar
has a connoisseurs cellar
of Austrian and German
wines, ranging from
affordable to extremely
high-end, with a fantastic
collection of orange
(untreated) wine by the
glass. And there are
interesting small plates
to nibble on, including
Viennese boiled-beef
wrap, brilliant sticky ribs
and mountain cheeses.
Grosse Hamburger Strasse
32 (+49 30 2758 1215;
www.cordobar.net)
Rutz Weinbar has a
Michelin star for its food
and some of the best
wines in Europe, and it
takes its beer and spirits
just as seriously. But
refreshingly, this place has
very few airs; rocking up
for impromptu aperitivi is
positively encouraged, even
on busy Fridays. Order a
Berlin ale, a Riesling from
Baden-Wrttemberg or a
Spatzburgunder from
Pfalz. And try the sliced
Neuklln sausage with
sauerkraut and onion as
a wallet-friendly snack.
Chausseestrasse 8
(+49 30 2462 8760;
www.rutz-weinbar.de)
EAT
Das Lokal isnt advertised
by anything as vulgar as
a sign, but this tworoom shoebox is always
rammed. Once you
manage to get a table,
friendly staff serve
Brandenburg produce:
home-made noodles with
goats cheese, fennel and
hazelnut; wild boar with
yellow beetroot. Miss
A VISIT TO CLARCHENS BALLHAUS ON AUGUSTSTRASSE.

THIS LEGENDARY BALLROOM OPENED IN 1913, AND ITS
TWO MASSIVE SALONS, ONE OF WHICH IS CRAMMED WITH
CRACKED MIRRORS AND CHANDELIERS, HAVE DRAWN DEVOTEES
THROUGHOUT TIMES OF UPS AND SEVERE DOWNS. SINCE THE
AREA DEVELOPED INTO A HUB FOR CONTEMPORARY ART, IT HAS
BECOME HARDER TO GET IN HERE, BUT ITS WORTH THE WAIT. THE
FIN-DE-SIECLE SETTING, WITH ITS MIXTURE OF BEER, FOOD, CHAMBER
MUSIC AND FOXTROTTING INTO THE EARLY HOURS, IS UNIQUE.
Dont
miss
NEIGHBOURHOOD ON THE UP Linienstrasse, Berlin

the apple crumble
at your peril. The crowd
is a mix of boisterous
locals who look at home
among the low-hanging
lamps, slab-wood tables
and whitewashed walls.
Linienstrasse 160 (+49
30 2844 9500; www.
lokal-berlin.blogspot.com).
About 45 for two
Michelin-starred new
kid on the block Pauly
Saal serves unctuous
Pomeranian ox ribs and
entrecte in a room where
the visual focus is a giant
(model) red-and-white
missile. The building was a
Jewish girls school until
1942. Auguststrasse 11 (+49
30 3300 6070; www.pauly
saal.com) About 80 for two
Mind-bending things
are done to fruit and veg
(rose-shaped beetroot
ice and cod-liver balls)
at Reinstoff, in the
industrial-luxe former
Edison factory where
Germanys rst lightbulbs
were manufactured.
Time disappears as the
tasting menu unfurls.
Theres fantastic wine, too.
Schlegelstrasse 26c (+49 30
3088 1214; www.reinstoff.
eu). About 160 for two
SEE
Galerie Zinks zigzagging
matte-grey structure is
in arresting contrast to
the eerie, shambolic heart
of old East Berlin near
Alexanderplatz. Inside there
is an excellent selection
of pieces from 19
up-and-coming artists,
many of whom use the
space itself as inspiration
for work in a variety of
mediums, from drawing,
painting and sculpture to
photography and video
installation. Linienstrasse
23 (+49 30 6981 4320;
www.galeriezink.de)
Only in Berlin would
you nd a surrealist
museum of mechanical
objects. Vlad, the curator
of Designpanoptikum,
shows guests around his

collection, explaining the
provenance of objects
including an iron lung and
bizarre medical mannequins.
Torstrasse 201 (+49 01577
4012991; www.design
panoptikum.de)
The Wunderkammer
Olbricht at ME Collectors
Rooms is one of the best
private art collections in
Europe. Thomas Olbricht
has been meticulously
gathering masterpieces
dating from the 16th
century to the present.
Works by Cindy Sherman
and Thomas Schtte sit
alongside Alexander Von
Humboldts coconut
chalice and hundreds of
baroque and Renaissance
splendours. Auguststrasse
68 (+49 30 8600 8510;
www.me-berlin.com)
SHOP
Brand-new Portuguese
design store Paz DAlma
sells everything from
smooth wooden salad
bowls to modernist
lamps, regional wine and
printed paper notebooks.
Linienstrasse 121 (+49
30 6431 9900; www.
paz-dalma.de)
A groovy hangout for
grandmothers and crafty,
wool-loving hipsters alike,
Knit Knit is crammed
with specialist yarns and
accessories, and holds
regular knit-ins and
classes. Linienstrasse 154
(+49 30 9836 6430;
www.knitknit.de)
Garments is possibly
Germanys best vintage
shop, with beautifully
selected second-hand
pieces at prices from
bargain to bank-breaking.
The jewellery and clutches
are divine. Linienstrasse
204205 (+49 30 2847
7781; www.garmentsvintage.de)
Knock back an espresso
while you browse at the
impeccable eyewear shop
Brillenschneiderei. The
selection reects the
stores homage to highfunctional German design.
Gormannstrasse 8 (+49
30 8501 6060; www.
brillenschneiderei.de)
CHILL
Nicole Wheadon, the owner
of eponymous beauty
emporium Wheadon, was
previously a beauty buyer
at Galeries Lafayette. She
sources rare and wonderful
German and French perfumes
and offers mens barbering and
salt-water jet treatments
downstairs in her exposedbrick shop. The 20-minute
facial treats (about 25)
are lovely. Steinstrasse 17
(+49 176 3614 4509; www.
wheadon.de)
Exquisite Chinese tea,

martial arts classes for little
girls, boxing, Pilates and
multi-lingual yoga are a few
of the excellent offerings at
sleek and friendly studio
Chimosa. Drop in for a class;
book acupuncture or a Thai or
holistic massage. Linienstrasse
127 (+49 30 3385 5588;
www.chimosa.de)
Yes, everyones naked at
the Olivin sauna (this is
Germany), but the soothing
Finnish wood stove, hourly
herbal aromatic steam
ceremonies, rule of silence and
acutely good massages make
this chic enclave very relaxing.
Schnhauser Allee 177 (+49 30
4404 2500; www.olivin-berlin.
com). Entrance costs about 10
for two and a half hours
PHOTOGRAPHS: MADDALENA AROSIO/IMAGEBRIEF.COM; MALTE JAEGER; ASHLEY LUDAESCHER;

LINKA A ODOM/IMAGEBRIEF.COM; AUN TAN/IMAGEBRIEF.COM
My Linienstrasse
Jing Rttger
CO-FOUNDER OF CHIMOSA YOGA STUDIO
I was born in Shanghai and lived in Berlin as a child, before
the wall came down, and then returned to the city six years ago.
But I still love Chinese food and Lucky Star on Friedrichstrasse
is good for hotpot and dim sum. I was a strategy consultant
before opening my studio: I chose Linienstrasse because its very
individual, young and international, with small shops. I wanted a
creative place. I adore Atelier Cacao, the bio-chocolate factory
and store across the street. La Galleria Italiana on Torstrasse
has very good antipasti and the best coffee is at Espresso
Ambulanz. For shopping,
I like the accessories at
Wald, especially the
delicate gold bracelets.
After work I sometimes
go to Meine Bar for a
glass of wine; its small and
incredibly cosy.
This page, clockwise from above: Clrchens Ballhaus; art at The

Weinmeister hotel; toys at Paz DAlma; Cell Physiological Work
with the Amoeba Chaos Chaos by Marcel van Eeden at Galerie Zink.
Opposite, clockwise from top: the exterior of Atelier Cacao; a
mannequin in Designpanoptikum; the model missile at Pauly Saal
WHERE TO STAY
Reviews of the month in London Cotswolds Yorkshire Dales + Jake Bugg

EDITED BY PETER BROWNE
EXCLUSIVE FIRST REVIEW
SHAKE IT UP, BABY

Ham Yard Hotel has the dizzying design flair youd expect, but it also brings something
entirely new to the London scene, says Sally Shalam. Photographs by Matthew Buck
Seventeen years have passed since I set
eyes on my rst Firmdale hotel, in Covent
Garden. It was the 1990s, and London was
on the up. This was the height of Britart
and Britpop, with a new Prime Minister
who entertained as many rock stars as
foreign dignitaries at Number 10.
I remember being at the hotels launch
party, balancing a glass of Champagne
and tiny canaps in an upstairs drawing
room vibrant with carefully mismatched
furnishings. It felt like a secret little club,
light years from corporate predictability.
And soon those who could easily afford
a suite on Park Lane Linda Evangelista,
Kiefer Sutherland adopted the Covent
Garden Hotel as their base in the capital.

It even had a tiny screening room, the rst
in a London hotel. Townhouse boutique
chic had arrived in Britain.
Firmdale owned by the designer Kit
Kemp and her husband Tim then
opened Charlotte Street Hotel in Fitzrovia
in 2000, followed by a handful of other
hotels-as-neighbourhood-haunts.
At a time when Britains self-proclaimed
boutique hotels were masculine spaces of
black wenge wood and stark (often Starck)
minimalism, Kit Kemp ploughed her own,
uniquely stylish and feminine furrow.
Every Firmdale hotel is quintessentially
British, and no two of its bedrooms or
suites are ever the same. An acid-bright

Louis XV chair will be offset by naive
pictures or artfully arranged Indian
carvings, a charcoal sofa plumped with
graphic cushions, a oral padded bedhead
juxtaposed with colour-block linen drapes.
Texture, colour and print converge in
spaces dotted with beautiful objets and
original art (sometimes on a massive
scale, as anyone who has encountered
Boteros 10ft bronze cat in the Soho
Hotels lobby will tell you).
Fast-forward to 2009, and the arrival of
Crosby Street, the companys eighth hotel,
and its rst in New York (to be followed by
a second in 2015). Now on a global stage,
Above, from left: the Croc bowling alley; the Drawing Room. Opposite, framed records and a bespoke sofa from South Africa in the bowling alley
WHERE TO STAY
it surely paved the way for this, the

magnum opus, Ham Yard Hotel.
Ham Yard is a U-shaped enclave that
includes a 91-bedroom hotel, apartments
and shops (speciality teas, owers and, from
Sydney, the fabulous Dinosaur Designs).
It is curved around a courtyard with a
dramatic bronze sculpture I fancy it
as a slice of the Grand Canyon by the
Turner Prize-winning artist Tony Cragg.
There is one word to sum up Ham Yard
Hotel: vistas. Soho chimneypots and a
distant church clocktower beyond the
cottage-garden blooms on the rooftop. The
dome of the Caf Royal from the terrace
of a suite. From reception, down a corridor
suffused with light from soaring, industrial
windows, you can glimpse the bar and
restaurant, or look out onto the greenery
of the courtyard from the Drawing Room.
Public spaces are so vast, you almost
need a guided tour to take you from the
UNTIL YOURE ACTUALLY

AT RECEPTION PAYING
YOUR BILL, YOU NEVER
FEEL AS IF YOU ARE IN A
HOTEL. THERE IS NO
BRANDING ANYWHERE
French replace in reception, past walls
covered in Kit Kemps own fabric (she
launched a range for Chelsea Textiles last
year, as well as carpets for Christopher
Farr) and stunning paintings by Shilo
Engelbrecht, to the very rear of the darkly
glimmering restaurant, and back along
the opposite side, where a wall full of
illuminated porcelain jars by Martha Freud
invites you to discover a further bar of
black, pink and cream restfulness, this in
turn anked by an orangery paved with
reclaimed Purbeck stone.
People are jaded by travel theyve
seen everything, says Kemp. Its about
an element of surprise. To draw you from
room to room.
Down a ight of stairs is a gallery that
overlooks the double-height Dive Bar
characterised by a neon diver lighting
up a wall a place specically designed
for special events, alongside a state-ofthe-art theatre seating 188. Then there
is the peaceful marble-and-wood retreat
of the Soholistic Spa, with its shell mirrors
and mesmeric oral art by Glaswegian
Jack Milroy, and the hypoxic gym (for
altitude training). From here you can go
down again, to the Croc bowling alley, the
alley itself transported from Texas, walls
adorned with massive Howard Hodgkin
Above, a Pierre Frey fabric, artworks designed by Kit Kemp and vintage bowling shoes. Opposite,
clockwise from top left: a sitting room; the restaurant; a suite; an artwork Kemp picked up in Brazil
paintings. This is hotel as art gallery,

meeting place and performance space.
On top of all the public rooms are the
bedrooms, suites (with Bof kitchens)
and on the third to fth oors private
apartments, some with roof gardens.
Even working on this scale, Kemp has
designed and styled each individually
and that is the whole point of Firmdale.
Until you are actually standing at
reception paying your bill, you never
feel as though you are in a hotel. There
is no branding anywhere (unless you
count Kemps newly created Rik Rak
toiletries, which smell deliciously of
gardenia and orange blossom). To pull
that off, in a hotel of such grandiose

proportions, is quite a feat.
For now, on Google Street View, you
can still see Ham Yard as the derelict
bombsite it used to be. I guess we all
had a feeling something was starting, in
that chic Covent Garden drawing room
in 1997, but who could have foreseen
its culmination? Ham Yard is an urban
village. It has redened the entire concept
of what a hotel is.
HAM YARD HOTEL, 1 HAM YARD,

LONDON W1 (+44 20 3642
2000; WWW.HAMYARDHOTEL.
COM). DOUBLES FROM 310
WHERE TO STAY
BED-HOPPING WITH JAKE BUGG

The mercurial, mop-topped singer-songwriter tells Francesca Babb which hotels have struck a chord
THE MERCER, NEW YORK

Usually I go uptown, but last time
I was in New York, I stayed here.
The rooms are big for a Manhattan
hotel, and it had a little balcony,
which is great for a smoker. I love
the way the lobby feels a bit like
youre in a beatnik caf, with all
these books on shelves. Im going
there again when Im back in
the city. www.mercerhotel.com.
LE PINARELLO HOTEL,
CORSICA
I love the fact that if you get a room
on the ground-oor, you can step off
your balcony onto the beach. Its about
40 minutes from the main town, but
there are restaurants nearby. The one
across the road makes the best chocolate
fondant Ive ever eaten. www.lepinarello.
com. Doubles from about 220
SEATTLE WAS COOL.

ITS REALLY CHILLED.
AND JIMI HENDRIX
AND NIRVANA ARE
BOTH FROM THERE
RENAISSANCE PARIS
LE PARC TROCADERO,
FRANCE
It may not be the most
famous hotel in Paris, but get
a room on the top oor and
you can see the Eiffel Tower
it feels youre right in Paris.
I thought it was really romantic;
then, when I was on a plane
to Birmingham the next day
with a screaming kid next to
me, I thought maybe it had
just been the best dream ever.
www.marriott.co.uk.
FOUR SEASONS
HOTEL SEATTLE USA

Id never stayed anywhere
as fancy as the Four Seasons
before. It was the rst time
Id ever been to America. The
weather is a bit like Englands
and its really chilled. We went
to visit the rst-ever Starbucks
and its just a little wooden
hut! www.fourseasons.com.
Jake Buggs latest EP, Messed up Kids, is out now
LONDON
The rst time I walked in, I thought
it was really old-fashioned: a bath
big enough for two and classical music
playing from a beautiful vintage radio.
I just laughed to myself. What am I
doing here?! I felt like I didnt belong.
Now its one of my favourites. You have
to try the macaroni cheese on room
service. www.deanstreettownhouse.com.
Doubles from 195
NO THANKS!
I wouldnt recommend the Travelodge in
Kings Cross. When you rst start out as
a musician you dont have the privilege of
staying in nice hotels: youve got to do
The Toilet Tour, as they say. Ive stayed
in a lot of Travelodges, but that is a
pretty horric hotel. Dont go there. Ever.
PHOTOGRAPH: KEVIN CUMMINS/GETTY IMAGES
DEAN STREET TOWNHOUSE,
Finding the extraordinary.

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U N F O R G E T TA B L E M O M E N T S
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Call our team now on 0845 591 8106 or visit www.moorings.co.uk/condenast
WHERE TO STAY
colourful beetroot-and-horseradish salad,
followed by hay-smoked venison with a
lick-the-plate gravy, and pork loin with a
celeriac-and-apple rosti. Puddings are
incredible: a chocolate whatchamacallit
cake that implodes into a gooey mess
when drenched in salted caramel sauce
at the table; tangy rhubarb sorbet with
duck-egg custard. Its all you can do to
waddle happily up to bed afterwards.
WHO GOES THERE? The Duck is a
hit with locals out for a Saturday night
treat (theres an overow dining room
that was packed the evening we visited).
Overnighters include couples celebrating
double-digit wedding anniversaries and
families whose children write excited
reports in the guest book about sleeping
high up in the loft-style bed.
WE LIKE The jar of dog treats on the
windowsill in the bar; the Hunter wellies
to borrow for muddy walks; the helpyourself spa baskets lled with potions,
lotions and GHD hair straighteners.
THE FUZZY DUCK
CONTACT +44 1608 682635; www.

fuzzyduckarmscote.com. Doubles
GRAINNE MCBRIDE
from 110
WARWICKSHIRE
WHAT IS IT? A stout, orange-brick pub
with rooms in the tiny village of Armscote
on the edge of the Cotswolds. Inside, its
surprisingly contemporary, a shot of
urban style mixed with sweet-as-pie
country charm. There are black-and-white
photographs on the walls and caramelcoloured leather armchairs (particularly
useful after procuring a snifter from the
connoisseurs cabinet of ne whiskies).
The small bar segues into a cosy dining
room, and theres a decked terrace at the
back that gets lively when the sun shines.
BEHIND THE SCENES The Duck
opened last year after siblings Tania
Fossey and Adrian Slater (of the family
behind the Baylis & Harding beauty
brand) had transformed what was a
traditional pub into a smart restaurant
with boutique-style rooms. The interiors
were designed by Fossey, and shes
taken the duck theme and run with it
(but not in a twee way); the framed
multicoloured eggs are a quirky touch.
SLEEP Its the kind of place to kick

off your walking boots after a day of
rambling and pull on a uffy robe for
some downtime before a hearty dinner.
The four comfortable bedrooms may
have sloping ceilings, but they dont feel
cramped thanks to the cool design: light
wooden oors, crisp white Frette linen,
grey faux-fur throws and nifty details such
as a compact, cream-leather vanity table
and a little decanter of sherry. The
bathrooms are sleek and well stocked
with beauty products (as youd expect,
from Baylis & Harding). Each room is
named after a species of duck: grandsounding Buff Orpington is the leader of
the ock, with a super-king-size bed and
a loft-style double accessed by a ladder;
the bathroom has a divine roll-top bath.
EAT This is serious cooking dressed down
in pub-grub casual. Hot milk loaf with
creamy butter is served while choosing
from a menu thats big on local produce:
beef carpaccio in lemon dressing, and a
WHILE YOURE HERE

Wander around the market town of
Shipston-on-Stour and get lost in the
labyrinthine London House Antiques.
The Stour Gallery across the road has
modern ceramics and paintings by artists
such as Simon Pooley, above, and a chatty
owner, Sarah Stoten. Stock up on treats
in nearby deli Taste of the Country,
known for its window displays piled high
with cakes. For a quintessential Cotswolds
experience, head to the Disney-esque
village of Chipping Campden.
PHOTOGRAPHS: AUTUMN ALLOTMENT BY SIMON POOLEY, 50 X 60CM MIXED MEDIA ON CANVAS; JAKE EASTHAM
WE DONT LIKE There are no

wardrobes, just a single rail on the wall,
so you end up living out of your bag.
WHERE TO STAY
SALLY SHALAMS GREAT BRITISH BREAKS

This month, our happy wanderer follows the trail of summer sports,
from freewheeling in Yorkshire to horseplay in Cornwall and Sussex
nlike the Tour de France, which has just

spun through the Yorkshire Dales following
Le Grand Dpart in Leeds, I have no
intention, ever, of traversing the National Park
on two wheels. Now that the neon Lycra has
ashed across Wensleydale and Swaledale,
swooping and switching through this undulating
green landscape, I shall follow the course of the
River Ure effortlessly, courtesy of an engine.
My favourite journey taken in the opposite
direction, from Leyburn to Hawes evokes the
coolest of car adverts; its the sort of journey where
there is scant habitation, nothing but road and sky.
I have to stop for Taylors of Harrogate tea and
lemon drizzle cake (homemade with good butter
and free-range eggs) at the lovely Muker Tea Shop,
20 minutes from Hawes. Its owners, Alison Stringer
and Nick Turner, run the village store next door,
too. Further on, in tiny Bainbridge, is Yorebridge
House (www.yorebridgehouse.co.uk; doubles from
200) with its elegant rooms and restaurant: luxe
ourishes amid wild, sparsely inhabited beauty.
I might take a detour on the way home, to visit
Abraham Moon & Sons, just outside Settle. Its
woollen textiles, woven in Guiseley, have found
favour as far aeld as the White House. Usually,
though, I linger in Hawes for its independent
shops (the chemist doubles as an off-licence), and
because I cant resist Outhwaites the ropemakers.
Its little visitors centre might seem an unlikely
tourist attraction, but if you have plans to open your
stately pile to the public, Outhwaites beautiful,
weighty stair and barrier ropes will be invaluable
in protecting your privacy during visiting hours.
There was yet more sparkle to spectator sport this
month in Cornwall at Watergate Bay, where England
player Jamie Le Hardy competed at
Veuve Clicquot Polo on the Beach.
Match times were determined by the
tide, but bubbly owed all day from
a shiny Airstream parked on the sand.
We picked up picnic things Sue
Proudfoots Trelawney cheese, local
tomatoes from the Padstow Farm
Shop and checked out Cornish-based
Atlantic Blanket Co for rugs and
cashmere throws. Everyone hit
the surf at sundown.
Its too late now to bag a billet at the
Watergate Bay Hotel (www.watergate
bay.co.uk; doubles from 135). In
midsummer, though, Im always tempted
to slip away from the honeypots. Last
year, The Old Parsonage (www.old-parsonage.

com; doubles from 95) in Boscastle provided a
soothing sanctuary. Set on a vertiginous lane, this
B&B is just a short walk from the solitude of the
South West Coast Path, with jackdaws and sea pinks
the only distractions from the glittering turquoise
sea nudging at the rocky inlets below.
Thoughts of polo ponies and thoroughbreds divert
me to the quintessentially English delight of Glorious
Goodwood and a comfortable, rustic B&B near
the racecourse in the Sussex Downs. Woolbeding
Cottage (www.woolbedingcottage.co.uk; doubles
from 98) has just two rooms, but they are airy and
prettily furnished, and its conveniently close to the
fascinating Weald & Downland Open Air Museum
or, if it rains, Arundel with its
fairytale castle and the gem that
is Spencer Swaffer Antiques.
Follow the River Arun to the
Black Rabbit for lunch and
a riverside drink. Summer is
such good sport.
A LETTER FROM
Ladies and gentlemen, show your appreciation for the capital of Canada. On second
thoughts, says novelist Elizabeth Hay, please stay in your seats. Illustration by Laura Carlin
f its a standing ovation you
want, then this is the place to
be. Yet again the other night,
having half-slept through an
interminable performance
by a dance company from Taiwan,
I woke to everyone around me
engaged in that most Ottawan of
activities: not measuring their
length on the icy pavement, but
hoisting their old bones in order to
applaud. It happens every time.
I held my grumpy ground, not
rising until I could no longer see
any part of the stage for all the
broad backs in my way.
Ottawa is not a cultural city. It
is a political city, largely populated
by civil servants, that straddles
English and French Canada. In
many ways it embodies the old
French-English divide, the famous
two solitudes. In this regard,
however, we are the same. Though
francophones and anglophones may
nurture their mutual grievances
and avoid speaking to one another,
we rise to our feet with the same
mind-numbing regularity.
Let me tell you what we say about
ourselves. I have this rsthand,
having conducted research at a
dinner party a few nights ago. Here,
by the way, we dont tend to get
together with friends in restaurants
and bars, rather over a meal at home,
and when you are invited, unless you
happen to be a selsh writer, you
ask what you might bring. Salad?
Dessert? We arrived with our salad,
made by my husband, and a bottle
of wine, and I put my question. Why
does Ottawa give standing ovations
to everything under the sun?
The answers came readily, in
tones of sorrow, self-recognition and
disgust. We are not sophisticated,
said sophisticated Nicole, quoting

her elderly mother, and so we
are grateful to these artists for
coming all this way. We know
Ottawa is far off the beaten path.
We want them to feel its been
worth their while.
Its economic, said Bill. People
pay good money for their tickets.
They want to believe they got
something great for their money.
Pas du tout, Marie said. We
dont want to hurt their feelings.
Especially if the hall is half-full; we
feel responsible. We stand up so they
wont feel bad about themselves.
Its ludicrous, said Catherine,
looking sourly at her plate. A
few people stand, others follow
suit and, before you know it, here
we go again.
incessant winter. Its the brew of

difdence, thriftiness, spinelessness,
ignorance and gratitude that many
nd unforgivable. My children say
the best thing about it is that it is
easy to escape. My husband and I,
who like its peaceful streets and
breathable air, say exactly the same
thing. Easy to escape into nature,
into physical activity, into beauty.
In 20 minutes you can be in the
wooded Gatineau Hills, hiking,
skiing, canoeing, swimming, gazing.
In every direction we have woods
and lakes and rivers that offer
release and calm the mind.
At the dinner table we kept
up our unsparing analysis and grew
merrier and merrier. Wine owed
and with every pointed insight,
every little diatribe against
WINE FLOWED AND WITH EVERY POINTED INSIGHT,

EVERY LITTLE DIATRIBE AGAINST OURSELVES
AND OTTAWA, WE STOOD UP AND APPLAUDED.
ANOTHER STANDING O, WE CRIED
Our applause is devalued
currency! interjected Bill, red in
the face and irritated beyond
endurance. Its meaningless!
Then Bart, most damningly of
all, says We dont know what we
think. We doubt our feelings, we
dont trust our judgment, and so we
applaud everything.
It comes out of our insecurity,
I agreed, and it is a sickness.
While most of Canada hates
Toronto for its arrogance and
power, they resent Ottawa even
more as the pampered home of
political power. Amongst those
of us who make it our home,
feelings are more complicated.
Never mind the six months of
ourselves and Ottawa, we stood up

and applauded. Another standing
O, we cried, surging out of our
chairs and falling back into them. A
standing ovation for Marks salad.
A standing ovation for Nicoles key
lime pie. A standing O for our witty
selves. We were irresistible to each
other, delighted with ourselves for
having made such a grand evening
out of self-mockery and laughter.
And typically, before the night
was out, we were planning an
extended canoe trip together. If not
this summer, then next. As far away
as possible.
Elizabeth Hays novel Alone in
the Classroom (MacLehose Press,
8.99) is out now
STYLE FILE
BY FIONA LINTOTT
Need ideas to make a splash? Our favourite people behind the hippest swimwear
ADAM BROWN
The man responsible for those Daniel Craig trunks
Where are you?
The Caribbean, travelling to Canouan
and Mustique to stay with friends.
Best beaches?
Mauhault Bay on Canouan and
Macaroni on Mustique.
Best pool?
At Gumbolimbo, our friends house
on Canouan. It is perfect.
Where do you eat?

At the Pink Sands Club, Canouan.
What do you drink?

A very pale ros.
Beach towels by.

Orlebar Brown.
Beach bag by.

No bag, just a towel.
Suncare by.
Lancaster.
Summer playlist?
Above, the Pink Sands Club,

Canouan. Right, Adam Brown
with model Saffron Aldridge.
Far right, swim shorts, from
135, Orlebar Brown (www.
orlebarbrown.com)
Trick Me by Kelis and Lana Del

Reys National Anthem.
Sandals or trainers?
Bare feet.
Sunglasses by.
The new OB Beaumont.
Orlebar Brown (www.orlebarbrown.co.uk)
Swimsuit, 145,
Mara Hoffman (www.
marahoffman.com)
MARA HOFFMAN
The original hippy chick with real staying power
Where are you?
Suncare by...
Belize. First Im staying at Francis

Ford Coppolas Blancaneaux Lodge
in the jungle, and then moving to his
Turtle Inn on the beach.
Burts Bees Chemical-Free

Sunscreen SPF30.
Best beaches?
Besides Belize, the Turks and Caicos are
beautiful, Mexico is amazing and the
beaches of southern India are unreal.
Summer playlist?
I always think of slow dancing on
a hot night to Beast of Burden by
The Rolling Stones. Also, Im a forever
fan of most reggae.
Sandals by...
Best pool?
MH x Havaianas.
Sunglasses by...
The triangle pool at

Turtle Inn.
Ivory Sophie frames

by Selima Optique for
Pamela Love.
Where do
you eat?
At local shacks.
Mara Hoffman
(www.marahoffman.com)
What do you
drink?
A Mojito or
a Corona.
Beach towels by...

MH x Pendleton.
Beach bag by...

Mara Hoffman.
Bikini, 65, Mara

Hoffman (as before).
Right, Turtle Inn
labels share their holiday checklists. PLUS Jewellery Beauty Mens & On the scene
IPEK IRGIT
The bright new bikini hotshot
Where are you?
Stopping off in Ibiza, then going to Ceme
in Turkey. My family has a house there.
Best beaches?
Weve spent great summers at Kum Beach
and Okans Place on the Aegean Sea.
Best pool?
Bikini, 225, Kiini
(www.kiini.com). Sun
Beauty cream, 20,
Lancaster at Selfridges
(www.selfridges.com)
At Manastir Hotel in Alaati.
Where do you eat?

At nearby Asma Yapragi. Theres no menu,
you eat whatever is in the kitchen that day.
What do you drink?

A cocktail with crushed-satsuma
vodka and mint.
Beach towels by...

I use different colours of peshtemal
(hammam towels), which we sell at Kiini.
Beach bag, 102,
Mercado Global
(www.mercadoglobal.
org). Sunglasses, 174,
Oliver Peoples (www.
oliverpeoples.com)
Beach bag by...

I love Mercado Global totes.
Suncare by...
Lancaster.
Summer playlist?
I got you (I feel good) by James Brown.
Sandals by...
Valia Gabriel, who I recently discovered.
Sunglasses by...
Oliver Peoples and Illesteva.
Kiini (www.kiini.com)
JOSH ROSEN, far right

The super-relaxed surf dude from New Yorks cool beachwear trio
Where are you?
Swim shorts, both 45; duffel

bag, 75, all Saturdays Surf
NYC (www.saturdaysnyc.com).
Below, Soho House New York
Long Island. Its sweltering in New York,

so we spend a ton of time in the water.
Best beach?
Rockaway, our closest surf spot to NYC.
Best pool?
On Soho House New Yorks roof deck.
Where do you eat?

Robertas in East Williamsburg, the
outdoor area is great in August.
What do you drink?

A cold can of beer is my go-to.
Beach bag by...

Saturdays Surf NYC x Porter bag.
Suncare by...
Either Vertra or Watermans.
Summer playlist?
A podcast by Chances with Wolves.
Sandals or trainers?
Nike running shoes.
Sunglasses by...
Our new Saturdays Surf NYC Mitsu frames.
Saturdays Surf NYC
(www.saturdaysnyc.com)
STYLE FILE
JURASSIC JEWELS
Sourced from the frozen wilds of Siberia and Tanzanias grassy

plains, elements from the era of dinosaurs are adding bite to the latest designs, says Jessica Diamond
Whitby jet
Masterpiece ring
with gold and
Champagne
diamonds, 4,500,
Jacqueline Cullen
(www.jacqueline
cullen.com)
White-gold,
Tanzanite, diamond
and mammoth-tusk
pendant, 25,950,
Theo Fennell
(www.theofennell.
com). Rose-gold,
dinosaur-bone,
rutile and whitediamond earrings,
6,763, Monique
Pan (www.dover
streetmarket.com)
PHOTOGRAPH: MICHAEL RUNKEL
Rose-gold and jet

Victoria earrings,
2,805, Pomellato
(www.pomellato.
com). Golden Sea
Horse ring with
yellow gold and
green tsavorites,
3,480, Bibi
van der Velden
(www.doverstreet
market.com)
magine a piece of jewellery that contained materials dating back 100 million
years. Imagine how much you would want to look at it and touch it, how
fascinating and otherworldly and beyond rare it would seem. The jewellery
industry, always so tuned into the human condition and our insatiable appetite for
something different, is turning to Jurassic elements, heightening their preciousness
by mixing them with diamonds and gold, and maximising the patina and texture that
comes with extreme age. Theo Fennell has used chunks of mammoth tusk sourced
from the melting permafrosts in Siberia to carve a ring and pendant with a delicate leaf
pattern, and then set them with brilliant-blue Tanzanite from the Merelani Hills near
Mount Kilimanjaro. Similarly, Bibi van der Velden has formed mini-sculptures out of
mammoth tusk, rst imagined in wax and then carved by craftsmen in a village in China.
Jet, or petried wood, traditionally used in Victorian mourning jewellery, is
fashionable once more. Jacqueline Cullen sources hers from Whitby (its
petried monkey puzzle tree) and dots it with blobs of molten
gold or sets it with black diamonds to splendid Gothic effect.
Pomellatos take is slicker and less organic, piercing the jet
into a paisley pattern or mixing it with gold links to create a
long, looping chain. Even Cartier, so historically focused on
exceptional gemstones, is tapping into the trend. A
panthers face is sculpted from fossilised matter; the
natural patination is the perfect depiction of dappled
fur. And possibly the most extraordinary incarnation is
jewellery made from dinosaur bone. Fragments sourced
from the Colorado Plateau, which are too small for a
museum display, have been sliced and polished by
Platinum, fossilised
Monique Pan, thereby exposing their ancient, natural
matter, onyx,
tessellation. Placed into thoroughly modern settings and
yellow- and whitearranged with diamonds into graphic compositions, her pieces
diamond bracelet,
POR, Cartier
are the perfect reimagining of the Earths prehistoric remains.
(www.cartier.com )
STYLE FILE
Pot Rouge Blush, 19,

Bobbi Brown (www.
bobbibrown.co.uk).
Below, Cleansing Cream,
15, Dr Hauschka
(www.johnlewis.com)
How do you stay t and healthy when

you are working on location?
I work out three times a week and try to eat
healthily. It helps give me energy after long
days and lots of travelling. I love sh or chicken,
grilled vegetables, sauted spinach with feta
cheese and a good juice.
How do you scale down your

make-up bag for ights?
Im all about taking short cuts. My new thing
is to put a cream blush on my cheeks and then
dab a bit on my lips. It adds colour to your face
without competing. In terms of regular makeup, I use Bobbi Browns Creamy Concealer,
Bronzing Powder, Pot Rouge Blush, Smokey
Eye Mascara and one of her lip colours.
GROWING UP IN
FLORIDA, MY MOTHER
MADE A POINT OF
PUTTING SUNSCREEN
ON ME. ITS ESSENTIAL
BEAUTY KIT: KATE UPTON ON HER TRAVELS
The model who stars alongside Cameron Diaz in new film The Other Woman shares her tips
I go to Christine Chin Spa in Manhattan.
How do you get your skin and

body beach-ready?
Theres nothing better than a good
facial. And I work out with David Kirsch at
his gym, Madison Square Club, when Im
in New York. Hes such a positive person.
I walk out of the place feeling amazing,
even though Im a sweaty mess.
What fragrance do you wear?

I actually dont have one. I enjoy trying new
things. I like perfume, but sometimes I forget
to wear it. Jo Malones Lavender & Lovage
candle is one of my favourite scents. I have
a few of them around my house and almost
always have them lit. Theres something
calming about the aroma.
Top hair products?

I use the gorgeous range by
Leonor Greyl.
Which are your

favourite skincare
brands?
Do you have a signature

nail colour when you
get a manicure?
I wash my face with Dr

Hauschka Cleansing Cream
and moisturise with Bobbi
Brown Hydrating Gel Cream.
I always follow with
sunscreen, and I like Bliss
Lemon +Sage Body Butter.
I usually like nude shades

a soft pink, or white.
Kate Upton is the face of

Bobbi Brown Cosmetics.
The Surf and Sand Collection
launches this month
From far left: Lip

Colour, 19.50,
Bobbi Brown
(www.bobbibrown.
co.uk). Le Vernis
in Ballerina, 18,
Chanel (www.
chanel.co.uk).
Lavender & Lovage
candle, 40, Jo
Malone (www.
jomalone.co.uk)
Did your mother pass on

any beauty advice?
She taught me to cleanse and
tone my face every night. No
matter what time I get home,
I go straight to the sink. Im like
a robot. Its engrained in me.
Who is your beauty

pin-up?
Lauren Hutton. She has
this wonderful inner
beauty about her. I adore
the way she carries
herself and that
she keeps her
look so natural
and clean.
Huile Secret
de Beaut,
40.73, Leonor
Greyl at Urban
Retreat (www.
harrods.com)
PHOTOGRAPH: MARIO TESTINO/ART PARTNER
Which spas around the world

do you visit?
STYLE FILE
EDITED BY
DAVID ANNAND
MAN ON A MISSION
m with my brother James. Were wandering around a particularly

scary part of Queens looking for a motorbike rental shop. One of our
US stockists has convinced us to go riding with the Long Island HOG
(Harley Owners Group) Chapter, and we need a couple of Harley
Davidsons. We both ride Harleys back in England, but neither of us has
done it in the States before, or in formation, and were expecting the rest
of the 12-strong group to be terrifying all prison stories and tattooed
faces. When they turn up they certainly look the part, especially Jay (aka
Mr Bones), our pack leader, with his leather waistcoat, huge tattoos
and trunk-like arms. But, of course, they couldnt be nicer.
Were English, so were wearing shirts and cufflinks much to their
amusement. Our bikes are Harley Davidson Road Kings with 1.6-litre
engines. Harleys are not about speed. Theyre about cruising. And noise.
And the dirty smell of oil. We don sturdy boots, heavy leather jackets,
gloves and helmets. We re up together and the sound is as loud as
a plane taking off. The riders service their bikes themselves, drilling
holes in the exhausts or mufflers (pick one)
to make them even meaner and noisier.
Theres a huge amount of respect on the
streets as we roll past, with kids waving and
cars pulling out of the way to let us through.
From the outside we must look like some
absurd show of American masculinity, but
I havent ridden for a year and Im petried.
Quickly we get snarled up in traffic and
Im sitting there under the hot sun, wedged
between two huge 18-wheeler lorries (they
look pretty big when youre in a car but theyre
enormous when youre on a bike), hoping that I dont stall or, even worse,
drop the bike, which is easily done at such low speeds.
Eventually Jay gets bored, throws a hand signal and basically cuts up the
whole of the highway. We all follow, heading north on Route 87 along the
Hudson River, the Manhattan skyline on our left, the Yankee Stadium to
our right. Its the best way to see the city. About 45 minutes later were out
on beautiful, tree-lined roads with no traffic.
We stop for ribs at Billy Joes BBQ, a huge place covered in stars and
stripes. For these guys, riding a Harley is a way of life, so theres no beer,
just massive bikers drinking lime and soda.
On the way back, through the Harriman State Park, the scenery is
incredible: mountain passes, cliff edges, great drops, huge trees. No one
is in a rush. We stay in formation, Jay blocking roundabouts with his
bike so we can sail on through. Its an awesome feeling, knowing that
weve been accepted. Were part of the chapter.
Harley Davidsons can be hired through www.eaglerider.com
READ THIS The Flamethrowers by Rachel

Kushner. A ery mix of heroic New York artists
and radical politics, Kushners brilliant second
novel tells the story of the Valera motorcycle
company, from its futurist origins to the Red
Brigade militancy of the 1970s.
DOWNLOAD THIS Unknown Legend
by Neil Young. This plaintive paean to riding
chrome and steel is the perfect soundtrack
to any American road trip on a Harley.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; COLUMBIA/THE KOBAL COLLECTION; GETTY IMAGES
British jeweller Henry Deakin heads out on the highway with Long Islands toughest bikers
ESPADRILLES
1
With rope-like soles and

canvas uppers, espadrilles
have an artisanal quality that chimes
perfectly with todays locally
produced, folky, foraging
times. The Havana by
Italian brand Maneb
is a good starting
point. www.matches
fashion.com, 45
Televisions most celebrated

espadrillado was, of course,
Don Johnsons Sonny Crockett in
Miami Vice, whose styling surely
represents some kind of fashion
apogee, if not for the rolled-up sleeves
then for the highlighted hair. To pay
homage, we suggest this jazzy slip-on
by Rivieras. To be worn on South
Beach with a strut and a loose-tting,
white Armani suit. www.asos.com, 65
The ankle-exposure backlash

has been one of the great
menswear brouhahas of the past year,
with behind-the-hand titters aimed
at those in brogues and pop socks.
Front-row regulars can spare their
blushes and keep their joints on show
with these Pablo suede espadrilles
by Spanish experts Castaer, ideal
for styling it out at New York Fashion
Week. www.mrporter.com, 75
DAVIDS POSTCARD FROM...

THE NEW FOREST
It is some unspecied point in the future.
You and your wife are the only people left
on earth. Almost all traces of mankind
have disappeared. Everything is verdant
and lush, the brooks gurgle and trees bow
low. At rst glance it could be a Garden
of Eden, but you quickly realise that this
is no prelapsarian paradise, its a postapocalyptic nightmare, and the world has
been taken over by an evil cadre of wild
ponies! Or at least thats what it feels like
in the New Forest. The 3,000 ponies here
arent actually wild, of course. Theyre
owned by those locals with a right to
pasture in what has been a royal forest
since 1079. Theyre not tame, though.
They are free to roam where they please,
masters of their own fate. Go during the
week for the full effect of the forests eerie
emptiness. Stay at The Pig for its lovely
rooms and chef James Goldings porcine
delights, but mainly for its location. A
10-minute walk from the front door, its
suddenly silent and youre eyeballing a
stallion. Albeit one thats only four foot
ve. Welcome to the Planet of the Ponies.
www.thepighotel.com. Doubles from 139
GET THE LOOK: THELMA & LOUISE

Hitchhiking across America? Take a tip from Brad Pitt and make like a real live outlaw
From left: Englewood hat, 25, Wild Wild Western Wear (www.westernwear.co.uk); Western shirt, 75, Lee (www.asos.com);
bandana, 200, Louis Vuitton (www.louisvuitton.co.uk)
STYLE FILE
EDITED BY THEA DARRICOTTE
Swimsuit, 144,
Chlo (www.chloe.
com).Curriculum
Vitae rings, from
8,048 each,
Tamara Comolli
(www.tamara
comolli.com)
Trilby, 250,
Eugenia Kim
at www.net-aporter.com.
Trunk, 1,195,
Globetrotter (+44
20 7529 5950)
On the scene:Belmond Hotel Splendido
Solar sunglasses,
465, Sonia Rykiel
(+44 20 7493
5455). Towel, 275,
Versace (+44 20
7259 5700). The
Diamante Bag
1,360, Gucci (+44
20 7235 6707)
There can be few other hotels where guests carry quite the same cachet as
the Splendidos. The rst signatures in the prized guest book are those of
the Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson. Its where Giorgio Armani and
Dolce and Gabbana come for drinks, where Taylor and Burton stayed for
a romantic ing. Set on a hillside above the pastel shing town of
Portono, the former mansion looks down over the bluest of coves and
olive groves dotted with gazillionaires villas. Inspite of all the newmoney arrivals, theres still plenty of old-fashioned glamour at the
Splendido, from the waiters in bow ties to the charming bedrooms,
with murals, linen sheets and china bowls lled with bath salts for
long soaks with Med views (the best is from room 221). The food is
delicious: pastas with roasted chestnuts and ceps; focaccia fragrant
with rosemary. Play tennis on the cedar-scented courts, have a
massage in the garden or pray in the 12th-century church. Even a
pianist in a sequined suit crooning europop at midnight seems
right because, with a Bellini in hand, it feels utterly Italian.
LISA GRAINGER www.hotelsplendido.com. Doubles from
A look from Dolce
& Gabbana S/S 14
380. Elegant Resorts (www.elegantresorts.co.uk) offers
tailor-made trips to Italy
Blossom-print pencil skirt,
525, Dolce & Gabbana
at www.matchesfashion.
com. Nadia sandals, 375,
Jimmy Choo (www.
jimmychoo.com)
PHOTOGRAPH: SUDHIR PITHWA
The look: La Dolce Vita
T RAVELLER PROM OT ION
Take a MomenT
The Nikon D5300 is the ultimate camera for discerning travellers
who want to take their photography far beyond the snapshot
eve all been there. Mesmerised by a gorgeous
sunset in the Australian outback or caught up in
the pulsing street life of Istanbuls Old City, you
scramble around in your pockets, press that
dinky little camera icon on your phone or tablet and
then curse your luck when the resolutions a bit fuzzy
around the edges, or the framings wonky. Sometimes,
when you really want to capture a moment, only a
serious bit of camera kit will do.
The Nikon D5300 is that camera. Easy to use with fast

operational speed, the D5300s 24.2-megapixel DXformat ensures your images will always be full of rich,
sharp detail, while the vari-angle screen monitor helps
you to compose shots. Built-in wi connects the camera
direct to a smart device, allowing you to share your
photographs straight after youve taken them, while the
GPS function adds your pictures to a map of the world
with full location information. And if you want to

capture the moment in full HD, the camera records
video clips at frame rates of up to 50p/60p.
You could, of course, always cheat and switch on the
auto mode to do all the work for you. However, the
chances are that, once you start to get comfortable with
the D5300, youre going to want to go beyond mere
pointing and clicking and instead explore the various
possibilities and perspectives the camera has to offer.
And, it wont be long before you explore the creative
potential of Nikons lens range.
And, if you then want to learn how to really get the
most out of your camera, the Nikon School runs a
series of workshops and training programmes in small
groups to educate and inspire photographers, whatever
their level of ability and interest.
*Offer not available in conjunction with any other offers. Subject to Nikon School standard
terms and conditions. Offer valid until December 31, 2014.
Youve got the camera, youve got the creative

condence, now all you need is your next destination.
For more information about the
Nikon D5300, visit nikon.co.uk
Visit the Nikon School website at nikon.co.uk/
training for further details and to take advantage
of an exclusive 10 percent discount for Traveller
readers, using the code ACOSQ4UMSJ.
Terms and conditions apply*
The Nikon D5300 is a compact
DSLR thats easy to use and
allows you to share images
online whilst on your travels,
using the built-in wi
USA
SPECIAL
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
PHOTOGRAPH: STEPHANIE RAUSSER
ON SALE 7 AUGUST WITH THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE
TRENDWATCH
THE RISE OF THE SMART COOKERY SCHOOL
Mastering the art of slow roasting in an Aga or deboning a pig from snout to tail are good, honest, robust skills to have. But for something a
little crisper this summer, Italy is where the food revolution goes top-notch. Cooking schools here have become more than a roly-poly, red-cheeked
chef in a bloody apron: they are rened, lled with covetable copper pots and pans, and men in sun-faded Herms-orange chinos waxing lyrical
about cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil. This is where to learn how to step up from a tricolore salad and casually dish out saffron risotto without
breaking a sweat. For a week-long crammer, try Stirred, just opened outside Venice in the antique-stuffed, 15th-century summer villa of the
Brandolini dAdda family. Here ex-River Caf chef Sophie Braimbridge teaches how to cook spaghetti with clams from Rialto sh market, among
other things. At Villa San Michele in Florence theres a turbo-charged schedule of classes with chef Attilio di Fabrizio, and the programme at
Tuscanys Castel Monastero was created by Gordon Ramsay. But most thrilling of all is Desinare in the Instagramable Riccardo Barthel
showroom, above, in Florences Oltrarno district, a hive of interior design, yacht ttings and gleaming kitchen kit. Sign up for a day course in
ravioli-making but try table-styling lessons, too theres no point ruining all that hard work with poor presentation. ISSY VON SIMSON
60
PHOTOGRAPH: ADRIA GOULA
MARY LUSSIANA GIVES THE LOWDOWN ON THE

SHARPEST PLACES TO STAY IN PORTUGAL
COVER ALL ANGLE
VILLA EXTRAMUROS
ARRAIOLOS
Its unusual to nd a contemporary B&B in this neck of the
woods, where knobbly old farms and thick-walled manor houses
dominate the landscape; but that is exactly what Franois Savatier
and Jean-Christophe Lalanne had in mind when they dreamt
of leaving their grey Paris abodes to start a new life in Portugal.
The couple commissioned an architect to surprise them and
the result is a boldly minimalist space, which they have lled
with a clever combination of designer objects and the regions
cork and marble. A monochrome palette of black and white
contrasts with bolts of red: a shiny, tomatoey Zieta Plopp 3-D
stool makes the fourth seat at a breakfast table of bright-white
chairs; a cherry-coloured Essey wastepaper bin is tucked under
a pale marble desk. The ve bedrooms look out over the
countryside and nearby Arraiolos, crowned with its 14th-century
hilltop castle. Animal skins and locally woven rugs soften the
smooth stone oors. Bathrooms, in rose or white marble, have
huge rain showers, covetable Aesop products and sprigs
of rosemary, plucked from the garden, in little glass jars by the
sinks. Downstairs, sunlight lters into the well-stocked library and
theres an open courtyard, clean-lined and sharp-edged, with
citrus trees, a modernist fountain and fat, squashy chairs to
op into during the heat of the afternoon or after a dip in the
innity pool, which lies still and blue amid the olive trees.
WHY COME HERE? To dally with design, from Seletti milk jugs
and Toni Grilo black cork lamps to Victor Vasarely zebra lithographs.
BOOK IT +351 911 192 550; www.villaextramuros.com.
PHOTOGRAPHS: CARLOS CEZANNE; ADRIA GOULA
VILLA PEDRA COIMBRA

Arriving here, after winding upwards on narrow roads that
cut through wildower meadows, is like stumbling onto a
Merchant Ivory lm set, so perfectly formed is the stone
hamlet lost in the hills of Serra de Sic. When the car stops,
silence falls, broken only by the whistle of the wind and the
distant honking of geese. Victor Mineiro, the architect of
these seven fantastically renovated cottages and adjoining
restaurant (local olives and wine, tremendous coriander
poached sh), will appear, all smiles and warmth, with Jack
Russells Olivia and Jackie at his heels. He brims with
enthusiasm for a project he has spent more than a decade
working on, since he and partner Manuel Casal decided to
breathe new life into the abandoned village. Gardens are
lush and lled with blossom; tiny wild irises, deep purple,
have taken root under olive branches. There is a swimming
pool and a set of yellow chairs in the shade of a medlar tree.
But it is not just picture-postcard prettiness, there is also
soul within these old limestone walls. Inside the little ochrecoloured houses, sunlight oods across highly polished stone
oors. Portuguese porcelain, old and new, and Mineiros
eclectic artwork sit side by side in the sitting rooms; midcentury furniture and ancient Berber rugs create a lived-in
charm. Kitchens have juicers to squeeze the fresh oranges
provided, the fridge is stocked with farmyard eggs and
Rabaal, possibly Portugals best cheese, which comes from
the goats that you occasionally hear bleating across the hills,
and every morning warm bread, baked in a wood-red oven
at dawn, is hung in a cloth bag on your front door.
WHY COME HERE? Gather your favourite people and rent
all the houses: its a brilliant take-the-whole-place set-up.
BOOK IT +351 910 731 194; www.villapedra.com.
Two-bedroom cottage from about 180 per night
63
MONTE CHORA CASCAS
PHOTOGRAPH: MANUEL GOMES DA COSTA
MONTEMORONOVO
The house, or monte, is a typical old Alentejan farmstead;
tightly packed cane rafters top the whitewashed, lowlying stone structure. Seven pared-back bedrooms, with
terracotta oors and vases of fresh owers, spill out onto
bougainvillaea-edged terraces, some private, most shared.
Boldly coloured walls charcoal greys, deep pinks, mousey
taupe are offset by heavy white Portuguese linens,
Provenal-style lamps and sun-bleached wood. Shutters
and ceiling fans keep the whole place breezy in the height
of the summer and theres a swimming pool in the garden,
as tempting for its view of the 13th-century castle that
dominates neighbouring Montemor-o-Novo as for its cool
water. There are waffle-cotton-covered daybeds under the
vine-entwined pergolas, armchairs on the terrace looking
out across the hills, and sun-loungers from which you only
need stir to nd the honesty bar, with its supply of juicy
olives, local cheeses and crisp white wines. Breakfast is
a serious affair, set up in the converted barn on a shared
table laden with jugs of just-squeezed fruit juice, homemade
jams and platters of the cured meats that the Alentejo is
famous for. Dinner is on request, but when the heat drops
a little at the end of the day, wind your way into fortied
Montemor-o-Novo for a feast of black pork and clams served
in a typical copper cataplana in Bar Alentejano.
WHY COME HERE? Because even with the difficulty of
tracking down the owner (the Portuguese pace is a slow one),
once you get to this charming bolthole, you too will go off grid.
BOOK IT +351 266 899 690; www.montechoracascas.com.
65
FAZENDA NOVA TAVIRA

If you really want to get to know the Algarve, stay at this
thoughtfully renovated country house. British owners Tim
and Hallie Robinson have scoured the area, which Hallie has
been coming to since she was a child, and ne-tuned their
insider knowledge. The couple make fantastically helpful hosts
with their spot-on advice about the best food markets, the
restaurants serving the tastiest sh, where to buy the local
wicker and straw, and where to nd little coves that are only
accessible by boat (such as Armona beach or the uninhabited
sandy Desert Island). But it will be hard to tear yourself away
from the lovely peace of the house itself, which is 25 minutes
inland from Faro (and therefore a million miles from the hustle
and bustle and charter-holiday crowds). The grounds are a
delight, rambling and romantic. The beautiful pale-pink
blossoms of almond trees and pomegranates hang over paths
of wild owers, border herb beds, lend their branches to cream
cotton swinging chairs and create shady corners for a snooze.
The saltwater pool is a highlight but so too is the restaurant
where the ethos is garden-to-plate and dishes include freshly
grilled sardines and a salad of sweet tomatoes drizzled with
fruity olive oil, followed by still-warm carob cake (made from
pods picked from the tree outside). When the sun sears, as
it does in this part of southern Portugal, retreat into the
bedrooms with their soft Egyptian cottons, chunky Balinesestyle furniture, blades of light burning through the green
shutters, and bathrooms with rain showers and REN soaps.
Later, pick a record from the vinyl library and head up to
the roof terrace for sundowners as dusk falls.
WHY COME HERE? For a blast of the hidden Algarve, and
simple pleasures under cloudless skies.
BOOK IT +351 281 961 913; www.fazendanova.eu.
66
AREIAS DO SEIXO
PHOTOGRAPHS: MANUEL GOMES DA COSTA
COSTA DE PRATA
The heavy wooden doors of this eco-savvy hotel 40 minutes
north of Lisbon open onto a magical world, with a rope swing
beside reception, hand-written chalkboards lled with
literary quotes, a huge driftwood bench outside for basking
in the sun and a long and very inviting swimming pool. Days
are given over deliciously to drinking whether it is the
home-grown mint-and-fennel tea or the local Quinta de
SantAna Riesling and eating. Lunch is the freshest of warm
salads: courgettes, tomatoes and lettuce picked that
morning from the organic vegetable garden and tossed with
colourful nasturtiums. Dinner is sea bass caught from the
white-capped Atlantic thats visible from the bedroom
windows. Go for walks along the deserted Silver Coast
sand dunes, take a massage in the gorgeous spa, with its
Moroccan lights and Ayurvedic oils, and sit by the crackling
log res that are lit as dusk falls and the stars come out. After
supper, return to your room along pathways of lanterns to
an enchanted cocoon where the bed is turned down and
tealights icker. In one pebble-walled bathroom an olive tree
grows right up through the oor, in another a hot tub
is inset into a slab of polished concrete. The Love Rooms
on the rst oor have views out to sea, mattresses on
reclaimed Moroccan doors, replaces inside and outside
and a thrilling sense of style that reects the Cape Verdean
heritage of Marta Fonseca, one of the owners.
WHY COME HERE? Because there is nowhere quite like it in
Portugal. A design-detailed hotspot that makes you long to
come back and stay in a different room each time.
BOOK IT +351 261 936 340; www.areiasdoseixo.com.
LAND VINEYARDS ALENTEJO

Breathtakingly innovative when it opened in 2011, with
its rooftop windows that roll back at the ick of a button
for views straight up to the star-studded night sky, LAND
continues its stellar theme by becoming the rst restaurant
in the Alentejo region to gain a Michelin star. The 22
bedrooms are set out among the vineyards, their airy
interiors punctuated by black slate the oversize bathtub
and double showers, the heated bathroom oor and
eucalyptus-wood sleek slatted panels, screens and lamp
shades. Striped woollen rugs from the nearby town
of Monsaraz echo the black-and-brown colour palette and
are topped by huge coffee tables carved from tree trunks.
Across from the rooms is the swimming pool, edged by
thick-cushioned, charcoal-coloured daybeds, a small lake,
which you can cycle around, and beyond that a Caudalie
spa. Upstairs, on what forms the ground oor from the
main entrance, the heart of the hotel is a seriously stylish
bar, with a ickering re and carafes of the must-try
velvety smooth LAND red wine, and the restaurant where
chef Miguel Laffan leads an accomplished kitchen. Start
with duck foie-gras terrine, red-grape jelly with beetrootand-green-apple salad and pain dpice crumble, then
line-caught wild sea bass with spicy chorizo and an oyster
vichyssoise, and nish with orange-and-cardamom ice
cream (even if its only a spoonful). It is so perfectly
balanced it almost feels healthy.
WHY COME HERE? For the stars all of them.
BOOK IT +351 266 242 400; www.l-and.com. Doubles
from about 140, including a glass of wine and winery tour
68
MONTE DA FORNALHA
Surrounded by gnarled olive trees and glossy-leaved oranges
and limes, the main house here is topped by a row of
typically squat Alentejan chimneys used to smoke the
slightly spicy local sausages and black hams. It was inhabited
by 10 different families in the 18th century and, over the
past 15 years, owner Orlanda Alves has created a hugely
welcoming spot, knocking down partitions to make six
large bedrooms. Its an excellent base from which to explore
the off-the-beaten-track Alentejo, with its dusty hilltop
towns and centuries-old castles. The framework of the
building displays its ancient origins: agstone oors, deep
replaces, beamed ceilings, heavy wooden shutters. Troughs
once used for the animals add to the rustic bent in some
of the bedrooms, but there are more considered touches
too; the beds are clad in high-end cotton, pin-tucked and
crisp, and covered in chunky woollen throws. Wall colours vary
from soft, all-enveloping pink-wash to quiet white, soaking
up the sun on a still summer afternoon. Woven rugs sit on
sisal matting, Moroccan tiles are mixed with ironwork lamps,
and thick dressing gowns hang on the back of the bathroom
doors. A long communal table is set for breakfast. Simple
salads are made for lunch, to be eaten by the pool or in the
shade of an old g tree. Dinner is served on request for
those too lazy to leave the quiet charm of this old house and
its soundtrack of birdsong from the garden.
WHY COME HERE? To hide away in room 488, with its huge
private terrace, and switch off even just for a night or two.
BOOK IT +351 935 792 330; www.montedafornalha.com.
MAP: HEATHER GATLEY PHOTOGRAPHS: MANUEL GOMES DA COSTA
ALENTEJO
IMANI COUNTRY HOUSE

EVORA
Many people who come here are drawn by the Almendres
Cromlech, Portugals most important Megalithic site, which dates
from 6,000bc to 4,000bc and is minutes away. Those who return,
however, do so for Imani itself, its perfectly round swimming pool,
13 hectares of garden and parkland where the two donkeys,
Almendra and Ea, graze and Cat, the cat, roams through the
fragrant lavender that lines the cobbled paths. The long drive is
anked by cypress trees leading up to a row of what were once
stables and are now six bedrooms with one more up a ight of stairs.
Its all very smart. Basins are made from local marble or shiny
columns of porcelain; lotions and potions are Herms Eau dOrange
Verte; keys to the rooms are attached to old cowbells: the look
is a striking mix of vintage and modern, reecting the taste of the
owners, Lisbonites Jos Pedro Vasconcelos and Mariana Roxo
(shes a producer, hes an actor and well-known Portuguese TV
show host). Graphic-printed rugs, cowhide stools and vividly
painted pieces of furniture add punch to the white-walled backdrop
and a touch of urban chic next to the wood-burning stoves and
rural surroundings. Down the path past the owners house is the
restaurant. In summer, caprese salads and tuna burgers are served
on the black-and-white chequerboard terrace; but in the winter
months, the dining room, with its roaring re, piano, pool table and
collection of curiosities, is an ideal retro den. Tuck into pasta con
gamberetti and a bottle of Imanis own wine, Improviso, created by
acclaimed local oenologist Paulo Laureano.
WHY COME HERE? For somewhere that strikes a unique balance
between old-world farmhouses and modern no-frills hotels.
BOOK IT +351 925 613 847; www.imani.pt. Doubles
from about 110
71
HIDDEN
DEPTHS
WAY UP IN THE REMOTEST REACHES OF SOUTH AFRICAS

KWAZULU-NATAL PROVINCE LIES THE ELEPHANT COAST, NAMED
AFTER FAMOUS BIG-TUSKERS FEW VISITORS EVER GET TO SEE.
NICOLA JACKSON GOES IN SEARCH OF THE SIMPLE PLEASURES
OF HER CHILDHOOD. PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID CROOKES
72
grew up on the kwazulu-natal coast of

South Africa, building forts in the forested
dunes and rock-pooling on the beach in
front of our family home. Theres a faded
Polaroid of my parents, windswept and
happy, posing in front of our beloved
Land Rover on the edge of vast and empty
Maphelane Beach. For me it still captures
the spirit of the region: somewhere for
tomboys and dreamers to cut loose and
breathe in the wood-smoked, salty air.
Few places on earth are as wild or
dramatic as the Elephant Coast. It stretches
for an epic 190km from Maphelane
Beach in the south and races all the way
up to the Mozambique border. There are
beaches with no other swimmers in sight,
waterways brimming with water lilies
and coral beds bedazzled with shoals of
sh, eels and turtles. On any one day
you can go snorkelling, spot a rhino and
be mock-charged by an elephant bull.
It could have been very different. Two
decades ago, permission was sought to
mine the regions pristine sand dunes for
titanium. Fortunately, the move was noisily
opposed by conservationists, residents

and even Nelson Mandela despite
the prospect of bringing employment
to what is still one of South Africas
poorest and most underdeveloped parts
and the move was defeated.
Eight years ago the iSimangaliso
Wetland Park which unites all the coastal
forest and marine reserves along the
Elephant Coast was awarded UNESCO
World Heritage Status, and is now home
to progressive conservationists and a
fresh brand of passionate, communitydriven tourism.
And so I was able to rediscover the
KwaZulu-Natal of my childhood on a
glorious 10-day road trip, heading north
from Durban, dipping in and out of
vastly different landscapes: the peaceful,
glittering wetlands of St Lucia; the pounding
Indian Ocean shoreline; open plains;
dense sand forests; high, rocky outcrops.
Happily, this is still very much my idea
of heaven, as wild as when Portuguese
explorers rst spied these astonishingly
beautiful bays in the 15th century.
DOWN BY THE SEA AND LAKES

Heading north on the N2 motorway,
sugarcane-coated hills give way to
perfumed blue-gum forests that come
to an abrupt halt at a simple metal
fence. Beyond this is the protected
iSimangaliso Wetland Park (it means
miracle and wonder in Zulu) where
untempered sand forests scribble crazy
patterns on the landscape, and wild
gardenias sweat beads of oxygen. The
park is a sort of puzzle clicked together
using pieces of commercial forestry,
former military sites and state-owned
property. It includes 85,000 hectares
of marine reserve, almost 190km of
virtually uninterrupted coastline and has
eight interlinking eco-systems with
extraordinary, endemic creatures and plants
which can now be explored on horseback,
foot, by motor or water-based safaris.
We spent our rst night at
Makakatana Bay Lodge, on an island
of private land slap bang in the middle of
the World Heritage Site, surrounded
by the muddled trunks and interlocking
Opposite, a lion in Thanda Private Game Reserve on South Africas Elephant Coast. Previous pages, traditional sh traps in the Kosi Bay estuary
75
branches of a deep sand forest. Owned

by the Morrison family since the early
1900s, this was once a trading post set
up to supply Durban with fresh seafood
and to barter animal skins and corn
with villagers. The only evidence of its
past is a crumbling cement crab-house
trapped under the grip of a strangler g
tree. A few years ago you could eat here,
but nature has won that battle. Instead,
you sit by an open re with your feet in
the ne sand of the forest oor, or on the
estuarys brim, keeping a wary eye out
for hippos and crocodiles.
On a morning drive to the beach
at Cape Vidal, we passed Okavango
Delta-like water pans, bleached
grasslands and the giraffes and antelope
nyala, kudu, impala and waterbuck
that populate this landscape. Once near
the shoreline, we hiked up one of the
25,000 year-old dunes at Mission Rocks
Look Out. Below, intense forests of
owering albizia, milk wood, acacia and
A HERD OF 20 ELEPHANTS
SURROUNDS US,
THE MATRIARCHS
BELLY RUMBLING AS SHE
PASSES INTO THE
ENCROACHING DARKNESS
buffalo thorns tangled together; turning
around, our eyes were ooded with the
blue-on-blue brightness of sea and sky.
Cape Vidal is a crescent-shaped
beach with a rocky ridge that reaches
out like a protective arm against the
force of the Indian Ocean. The sand
here is cinnamon-tinged and the water
is warm and silky; there are happy
holiday-makers and day-trippers
snorkelling and sandcastle building, and
anglers standing sentry against a backdrop of that never-ending coastline of
dunes and pounding surf.
Makakatana Bay Lodge (www.makakatana
baylodge.com). Doubles from 306,
including activities, excluding drinks
HEADING FOR THE HILLS

Just an hours drive inland from the
iSimangaliso Wetland Park is HluhluweImfolozi, one of the oldest game reserves
in Africa, famous for saving the white
rhino from extinction in the 1950s and
A family of elephant on parade through
the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve
77
THE LODGE AT THANDA, ONE OF THE MOST SOPHISTICATED OUTFITS HERE, IS

BUILT INTO THE HILLS WHERE TRIBAL HUNTERS ONCE TRACKED THEIR PREY
now home to the largest population in
the world. The reserve covers 96,000
hectares of forested hills and open
savannah criss-crossed with dungcoloured rivers. The roads are riddled
with potholes so driving here is a bit
like playing Tetris: you have to aim for
the remaining islands of tar. But thats
what Hluhluwe-Imfolozi is all about:
absolutely nothing about it is contrived,
measured nor tamed.
At our base, Nselweni Bush Camp,
there is no host, no guide and we have to
cook on rewood weve brought in by
ourselves. Its also unfenced. That night
we heard our neighbours shouting
voetsak! (bugger off in Afrikaans) at
a hyena interested in their supper. Later
we watched transxed as it padded closer
and closer to the dying embers of our re
to lick the charred meat off our BBQ
grill, his haggard face grimaced in the
lamplight like a childs imagined monster.
Over two days in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi
we saw 60 elephant and 21 rhino, three
of which were swinging from a helicopter

transporting them blindfolded, sedated
and upended to the capture unit at
the reserves Centenary Centre, from
where they would be moved to a new
life elsewhere (about 6,000 animals a
year are translocated in this way).
A 40-minute drive north of Nselweni
Camp is Thanda Private Game Reserve,
the most sophisticated outt in this
part of the country (other than worldfamous Phinda reserve). The lodge
at Thanda is built into the hills where
Shaka Zulus hunters once tracked
their prey and the structures are inspired
by the circular buildings of traditional
homesteads, with cement oors, thatched
roofs and enough decorative touches
to remind you of where you are in the
world. Indeed, the rhythm of the Zulu
nation is everywhere. You can talk to
trackers who know the medicinal value
of plants ourishing in these hills, get
goose-bumps listening to a womens choir
and gulp at the gut-wrenching power,
dust and fury of the Indlamu and

Isicithimaya dance. Nselweni Bush
Camp (www.kznwildlife.com). Doubles
from 80; either self-cater or take the
whole lodge with a cook. Thanda Safari
Lodge (www.thanda.com). Doubles
from 715 all inclusive
AND BACK DOWN TO

THE SEA
From Thanda we set off seaward
again, re-entering the iSimangaliso
Wetland Park, to Thonga Beach Lodge
in the Coastal Forest Reserve. Built
right on the forested sand dunes, it has
12 little rafa-thatched cottages tucked
into the dune vegetation and reached
by raised wooden walkways. Weatherbeaten and laidback with a blissful,
beach-bum tempo, there are nevertheless
plenty of things to do: snorkelling,
diving, a visit to the Mabibi community,
kayaking on Lake Sibaya (South
Africas largest freshwater lake). Or
you can just lie on the beach and grow
Above, at the Thanda Safari Lodge, buildings are inspired by Zulu homesteads. Opposite, Dumile Nene, a traditional singer at Thanda
79
GULP AT THE GUT-WRENCHING POWER, DUST AND FURY OF THE INDLAMU AND
ISICATHIMAYA DANCE. THE RHYTHM OF THE ZULU NATION IS EVERYWHERE
freckles. Between November and

January, endangered leatherback turtles
nest along these shores and there are
night drives from the lodge to watch
hatchlings making their rst journey into
the Indian Ocean waves. Thonga Beach
Lodge (www.isibindi.co.za). Doubles from
340, including meals, guided walks and
some activities
AT LAST, THE ORIGINAL

ELEPHANTS
The Elephant Coast takes its name from
the regions indigenous big-tuskers found
in the remote Tembe Elephant Park, an
hours drive from Thonga Beach Lodge
right up on the Mozambique border. The
road there is long, straight and surprisingly
well maintained, but the park is serious
four-wheel-drive territory with sand
roads that are slowly being reclaimed by
nature; its lush and getting lusher by the
day. But it is these impenetrable forests
that have helped save the parks elephants
from poachers, and also keep visitor
numbers right down (Tembe remains
largely unknown, even to South Africans).
We stayed at Tembe Safari Lodge
part-owned and managed by the Tembe
community a simple tented camp
with outdoor showers, wholesome bush
cooking and terric guides including
Tom Mahamba, who can read the bush
like a book.
On our rst night, Mahamba cut
the engine and a herd of 20 elephants
ILLUSTRATION: STEFANI CLEMENS
THAT NIGHT AT OUR BUSH CAMP WE HEARD OUR NEIGHBOURS SHOUTING

BUGGER OFF IN AFRIKAANS AT A HYENA INTERESTED IN THEIR SUPPER
surrounded us, their enormous tusks
glowing in the low light, the matriarchs
belly rumbling and reverberating as she
passed us into the encroaching darkness.
Tembe Safari Lodge (www.tembe.co.za).
Doubles from 110 all inclusive, but
excluding drinks (minimum stay ve nights)
OF FORESTS AND FISHING

About an hour and 20 minutes drive
east from Tembe is Kosi Forest Lodge,
built beneath a canopy of trees, including
an impressive Zulu podberry that gives
a permanent dapple effect to the light.
Its a secluded camp with a romantic,
down-to-earth vibe but theres plenty
to do, including canoeing in the luxuriant
Sihadla channel. Even the walk there is
poetic, through a dense jungle with

golden orb spiders clinging to backlit
webs and rubber vines making doodles
in the air. From the canoe you look up
into the endemic rafa-palm forest with
its massive spiked fronds, and linger in
primal waterways plied by a single ferry
made from rafa stems held together
with wooden pegs.
At rst sight, the traditional Tsongan
sh traps built in the tidal shallows
of the Kosi Bay Lake system look like
an artists installation. One of the
Tsongan shermen, Almon Mkhonto,
told me how this sustainable method
of shing has been passed down from
father to son for generations. Built out
of mangrove branches and bound
together with rope made from banana

bre, the curved fences drive the sh
to an ingenious one-way valve made
of twigs and into a nal, circular trap.
Engineered to catch only mature sh
leaving the estuary after reproducing,
gaps in the fence lines let the smaller
sh pass through safely.
Mkhonto presented us with a
magnicent kingsh from his trap and
later that evening the lodge chefs
prepared it in traditional Tsongan style:
fried whole, served in a rich soup made
from local groundnuts. It was the best
meal of our trip.
Kosi Forest Lodge (www.isibindi.co.za).
Doubles from 216 full board, including
some activities but excluding drinks
Opposite, a giraffe at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve, the park famous for saving the white rhino from extinction in the 1950s
83
strictly off
AN INSIDER CROWD OF OLD IBIZAN HANDS ARE QUIETLY ZONING IN ON MENORCA,
the record
THE BEAT-FREE BALEARIC. BY PAUL RICHARDSON. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MIRJAM BLEEKER
85
MORE THAN A PLACE TO DANCE,THIS IS SOMEWHERE

TO CRADLE YOUR DRINK AND WATCH THE SUN
DIP INTO THE HUGENESS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN
tT
he gate looks ordinary, just another of the rustic,

curving olive-wood gates that punctuate the islands
landscape in their thousands. But this one marks
the entrance to Torralbenc, a smart hotel, and slides open
smoothly and automatically as you approach. Old
meets new. Functional and rural elides into something
rather more sophisticated. Until quite recently, looking
for sophistication on Menorca was somewhat thankless.
Mallorca, next door and ve times the size, was the place for
glamour and celebrity, while Ibiza, of course, was where
the party crowd went.
But the whirligig of time and fashion brings its reversals,
and Menorca is now the Balearic island you graduate to
when Ibiza becomes less about Jade (Jagger) and more about
jaded; its good points seem more and more attractive. Its
historic twin towns, Mahn and Ciutadella, are endearing in
two very different ways, and its Neolithic monuments, scattered
in great quantity across the land, give the place an air of telluric
mystery. The islands state of conservation, its sensible shunning
of motorways and suburban build-up, puts Ibiza to shame.
And its beaches there is nothing in Europe quite like
Menorcas beaches.
It was mid-July: the beginning of the plateau of high summer
in the Mediterranean. I pictured madness on the roads,
overbooked restaurants and Brits jumping off balconies into
pools. But there was none of that. Menorca has just one major
road, connecting Ciutadella and Mahn, which was busy but
not frenetic. I slid effortlessly into convenient parking spaces
and prime tables on jasmine-scented terraces. The place was
quieter, slower and lovelier than I ever expected.
The basic palette of grey-green wild olive, dark green pine,
stone and whitewash, and the occasional blast of purple
bougainvillaea only conrmed the muted modesty of everything
else. These gentle hillsides werent swarming with new-build
chalets. Instead, they were dotted here and there with big,
pitched-roofed farmhouses real working farms, some with
signs advertising their homemade cows-milk cheese.

Meandering dry-stone walls surrounded elds of dry
stubble; crouching vegetation was battered into submission
by the Tramontana wind. Fig trees leaned against walls as
if they simply couldnt take the pace.
The islands hotels have been as low-key as its landscapes.
The last genuine novelty, back in the mid-2000s, was a raft
of agriturismos whose rusticity carried a hint of contemporary
style (see Places To Stay), so perhaps Torralbenc was only a
matter of time. Menorcas best new hotel is in a big farmhouse
a lloc, in the local Catalan dialect whitewashed inside
and out, with stone-built outhouses and winding walls. Within
months, under the guiding hand of hotelier extraordinaire
Pablo Carrington whose other properties include Cap Rocat
on Mallorca, it became Menorcas most recommendable
place to stay.
I ate lunch with Carrington on the terrace of the hotels
restaurant, sitting in a chair that could have been handmade
Menorcan but was actually high-design Italian. We talked
about the island and its changing prole. Its coming into
fashion, he said. There is a growing market, he told me, of
people looking to sell their Ibizan farmhouse and snap up
a Menorcan one instead.
My room was a former stable done up in a calm-inducing
modern-rustic style, with a generous use of local sandstone,
coir mats on the oors, and a plainness that dared you to call
it dull. I retreated here to escape the buzzing midday heat,
peering dozily through my window at the pretty gardens of
native shrubs and stone tanks into which water splashed, and
in the distance, the huddled pine woods.
Every evening just before sundown I went in search of
Menorcas virgin beaches: Macarella, a jewel the colour of lapis
lazuli, reached, like most of the playas vrgenes, on foot; or
Trebalger, where a river arrives at the sand through a romantic
gorge. The beaches on the northern coast (such as Cala Pilar,
Cala Pregonda, Cala Presili) are wild, wide and windswept. Those
Above from left: the breakfast delivery service at Torralbenc; razor clams at the hotels restaurant; the pool. Opposite, clifftop tables at Cova den
Xoroi. Previous pages, clockwise from top left: Es Mercadal village; the entrance hall at Ses Sucreres hotel, Ferreries; Playa son Saura; the terrace at
Sant Joan de Binissaida; Ses Sucreres breakfast; ajo blanco at Torralbenc; the interior and sign at Ses Sucreres; Cala es Talaier; Cas Ferrer restaurant
87
in the south are sheltered, womb-like coves where the sea has a
colour of almost Caribbean intensity. Someone at the hotel had
mentioned Binigaus. I found it on the map and walked there on my
rst evening. The path to the beach bordered a low wall and, beyond
it, a corneld where a hawk swooped on the woods edge. Before
tourism added cachet to beaches, they were forgotten places where
the farmland ended. And that evening I saw only a few couples
along the shore. There was a little discreet nudism.
Menorca makes less look like a great deal more. Take the nightlife,
or almost total lack of it. Its true that the island has no discotecas
worth the price of admission, but this only makes me love it all the
more. The Menorca branch of Pacha lasted a few years before closing
due to lack of interest. And the new franchise of Space Ibiza (it
opened in Ciutadella harbour) seems a reckless venture. Banging
techno in a place where people prefer a quiet G&T with friends?
I went along one night and found it half empty.
The Cova den Xoroi club is the exception that proves the rule. Its
a series of interconnecting caves halfway up a cliff, which open out
like mouths in the rock face, leering down at the ocean. Handsome
couples in statement sunglasses gazed into the sunset while the
down-tempo music pulsated soothingly. Signs exhort you not to hurl
things off the cliff. More than a place to dance, this is somewhere
to cradle your drink and lean on the wooden railings to watch the
sun dip into the hugeness of the Mediterranean. Far below, two girls
paddled along in a kayak. The crowd waved down at them.
A prosperous-looking young Chinese couple had taken the
whole of Covas VIP section, a natural terrace where the views are
vertigo-inducing. Thin and languid, they lolled on daybeds under
white-cotton canopies, sipping Mot as they took seles on their
smartphones. I had seen these cool customers before: they were
also staying at Torralbenc.
A thought occurred to me: what were the things about Menorca
that I would recommend to this smart young pair? Torralbenc
and Cova den Xoroi would be on the list, for sure. But so would
Lithica, a former limestone quarry transformed into an enchanting
underworld of gardens and dramatic spaces, and the enigmatic
stone tables of the Neolithic talayot at Torralba den Salord. And
Ciutadella, the Spanish Renaissance town that feels more like Italy,
with its palaces and whitewashed arcades. I would send them to
restaurants where the curious culinary conuences of traditional
Menorcan cuisine (Arabic, Catalan and British) are made new by
a raft of creative cooks. I would invite them to sample the delicious
Chardonnay made by Binifadet winery, one of only a handful on
the island. And nally, if pressed, I might just reveal the whereabouts
of those virgin beaches.
nother evening, over sundowners in the village of Sant Climent,

I met Laia Segu who was born on Menorca but has spent
time away and appreciates that her island is a secret marvel mostly
undiscovered by international visitors. She told me about the
Spanish celebrities choosing Menorca for their weddings and the
houses she xes for them, such as Binisegarra, a grand old mansion on
the coast belonging to Argentine telecom magnate Martn Varsavsky.
Segu sipped a pomada, a drink of local gin mixed with cold, sweet,
lemon Fanta. She was full of plans. Menorca in the ancient world
was Nura, the island of re. I want to make a summer party that will
really get people talking, she said, meaning not a crazy Ibiza party
but a chilled and laid-back Menorcan gathering, with res on the
Clockwise from far left: a painting in the entrance hall of Ses Sucreres in
Ferreries; the pool at Villa Cala Binigaus; a bedroom at Ses Sucreres; Santara
homeware shop in Ciutadella; the path leading to Villa Cala Binigaus
89
beaches and ares on the towers of the talayots. I asked her

about the Isla de las Sargantanas, a magical islet in the bay of
Fornells, up on the starkly beautiful and sparsely populated
north coast. Id learned it had just come on to the holiday rental
market and Ral, the former Real Madrid footballer, had
recently stayed there.
You must take a look its amazing, said Segu. Ill text you
the owners number.
I called Bi Garriga the next morning and he came to
collect me on the dock at Fornells in a motor launch, wearing
tatty shorts, the traditional Menorcan sandals called avarcas
and a stripy mariners T-shirt falling off one shoulder.
Cales Coves is a sea gorge, a miniature fjord, where limestone

cliffs are honeycombed with Neolithic cave dwellings in which,
it is said, a community of latter-day troglodytes ourished in the
1970s. The woods around me seemed to throb with insect noise,
a wall of rasping, scraping sound whose dense cross-rhythms
and scarcely believable volume actually seemed to increase the
sensation of searing afternoon heat.
Scrambling around the cove past a series of caves, I found
one that had not been boarded up. It was chilly and musty
inside, as well as agreeably rubbish-free. (Some of these caves
had been ancient grave sites, respect was due.) But for the tiniest
of ripple sounds, like the licking of lips, there was silence in the
Theres a magical islet off the starkly beautiful but sparsely populated north coast.
from its shore i could see the harbour where the king of spain goes to eat lobster stew
As we roamed the island, young Garriga pointed out its various
curiosities: the giant rainwater cistern; the single, lovelorn male
goat; the waving elds of undersea poseidonia. Everywhere blue
lizards called sargantanas (hence the islands name) darted
among the rocks and dry grass. From the western shore I could
see the harbour of Fornells, where the King of Spain goes to
eat lobster stew; from the eastern side, the wild outcrop of La
Mola, uninhabited and unvisited, practically off the map. The
place to stay on Isla de las Sargantanas, in a little stone house
built by the British Army in 1801, was hardly a paragon of style.
But the Robinson Crusoe romance of the place, the perfection of
this Mediterranean idyll, was something I would never forget.
On a Sunday afternoon after a big lunch of rice and sh and
an hour or two in the cool, dark quiet of my room, I found my
way down a long dusty track through a forest.
bay. The water looked like turquoise ink. I pushed out into
the shallows from a stone boathouse, heading for a patch of
glassy blue where I oated on my back for a long while, looking
up at the sky and the craggy cliffs.
With the onset of evening came the faintest breeze.
Shadows were creeping eastwards, as if chasing the sunlight.
Then I heard the most wonderful sound. Someone was
playing the ute in one of the caves a childlike melody
whose echoes tumbled out across the natural auditorium of
the bay. My mind turned to mythical and Homeric things: the
wine-dark sea and Syrinx, the nymph that turned into a reed
bed, inspiring her suitor Pan to take up the ute. I had been
looking for exclusivity, but this was a gift from Menorca to
me alone: a dose of the Mediterranean in its legendary, rare
and undiluted form.
Above from left: Cas Ferrer de sa Font, an organic restaurant in Ciutadella; Confetti interiors shop in Plaa de la Llibertat in the city; Plaa de
ses Palmeres; Bar Ulises in the centre of Ciutadella; a bedroom in Villa Cala Binigaus, a holiday rental on the south of the island
90
PLACES TO STAY
Torralbenc A vineyard planted by Rioja vintner Remrez de Ganuza
was the origin of this country hotel from the folk behind Cap Rocat.
The interiors have a coolly neutral, natural feel. The restaurant, run by
33-year-old Paco Morales, serves local ingredients with a twist in dishes
such as sea-bass ceviche. Other highlights: the chill-out area beside
the old threshing oor; the walk-in showers; the San Nicasio crisps.
www.torralbenc.com. Doubles from about 150
Cas Ferrer de sa Font Beatriz Gmez and Emma Salud had been
working in London restaurants until, sick of using lemons from China,
they returned to Beas native Ciutadella to open Cas Ferrer. This
restaurante ecolgico in an old blacksmiths uses only organic local
products. The salad of pigs trotters and coca of tuna marinated in
orange and fennel were two of the best things I ate on my trip.
www.casferrer.com. About 50 for two
Sant Joan de Binissaida This farmhouse conversion near Es Castell

belongs to the most recent wave of upmarket agriturismos to open on
Menorca. The Rossini Suite, in the old salon, is the room to book.
www.binissaida.com. Doubles from about 115
Anakena Restoran The Chilean/Peruvian menu here is fresh and original

and the setting, behind the all-white exterior of a Menorcan farmhouse,
delectable. www.anakenarestoran.com. About 55 for two
Ses Sucreres In a 19th-century village house in Ferreries, this place

has a cheerfully eclectic design, combining art photos, reclaimed furniture
and antique pieces to reect the excellent taste of its French owners.
www.hotelsessucreres.com. Doubles from about 70
971 Hotel Italian entrepreneur Marcello Luminia was already running
a chic real-pasta joint on Ciutadellas Plaza del Born before he
opened this funky urban bolthole in an alley behind the cathedral.
www.971menorca.com. Doubles from about 45
HOUSES TO RENT
MAP: MARIKO JESSE
Exclusiver Menorca (www.exclusivermenorca.com) is a good source

for high-end properties, including Villa Cala Binigaus, a modernista-style
farmhouse owned by a Danish fashion tycoon, and Villa Torres dAval.
Las Sargantanas private island can also be rented through this company.
(Note: the islands small house has basic furnishings.) Binicalsitx (www.
binicalsitx.com) is a 250-year-old country house in its own nature reserve.
PLACES TO EAT
Sa Parereta den Doro Teodoro, Doro for short, is a genial cook whose
restaurant is a long-established xture in Sant Lluis. It has a pretty terrace
and the baked hake with saffron mahonesa reminds us that Menorca is
the home of mayonnaise. www.sapareretadendoro.com. About 65 for two
Cap Roig For good freshly landed sh, there is nowhere better on
Menorca than this family-run place on a headland outside the village of
Sa Mesquida. www.restaurantcaproig.com. About 50 for two
Can Aguedet Feast on traditional specialities such as oliaigo, a cold
soup of tomato and peppers served with gs, and stuffed aubergines at
this been-there-forever spot in Es Mercadal. +34 971 375391.
About 50 for two
Cool down sun-scorched

skin with Guerlains Super
Aqua Body Serum, 37.
Bikini top, 76, Marysia
Swim at www.shopbop.
com. Bikini bottoms, made
to order, Isa Arfen (www.
isaarfen.com). Yellow-gold
Wing earrings, 733; Wing
necklace, 765, both
Maria Black at www.
net-a-porter.com. Gold
bracelet (just visible),
600, Hedi Slimane for
Saint Laurent (www.ysl.
com). Previous pages, left,
for dishevelled but glossy
waves, twist and scrunch
Guerlains Huile du
Voyageur, 38, through
damp hair. Scallop bikini,
162, Marysia Swim
(as before). Yellow-gold
Snowdon earrings, 1,485,
Maria Black (as before).
Previous pages, right, for
a long-lasting healthy
tan, drench skin with
Guerlains Sun Brunettes
SPF30, 40. Floral bikini
bottoms, 120, Tory
Burch (www.toryburch.
co.uk). Shell necklace,
POR, Cheval Blanc
Randheli, Maldives
(www.chevalblanc.com)
To maintain your tan and

keep skin looking fresh and
clean, buff the whole face
and body with Guerlains
Terracotta Sun Scrub,
36. Ipanema bikini top,
125; bottoms, 105, both
Orlebar Brown (www.
orlebarbrown.co.uk). Gold
cuff, 505, Pierre Hardy
(www.pierrehardy.com).
Opposite, for sundowners,
wear Guerlains Aqua
Allegoria Limon Verde
eau de toilette, 48, which
has the same ingredients
as a Caipirinha: cane sugar
and lime. Arden bonded
swimsuit, 400, Lisa
Marie Fernandez at www.
matchesfashion.com.
Snowdon earrings, 1,485,
Maria Black at www.neta-porter.com. Gold ring,
115, Monica Vinader
(www.monicavinader.com).
Hair and make-up,
Ruth Warrior at Lovely
Management, using
Guerlain Skin and Sun care
available from Selfridges
(www.selfridges.com).
Model, Amber Anderson
at Tess Management. The
team stayed at Cheval
Blanc Randheli, Maldives
(www.chevalblanc.com).
Thanks to British Airways
(www.ba.com) which ies
direct from Gatwick to Mal
97
LOVE AT
FIRST BITE
ARE THERE ANY HIDDEN CORNERS LEFT IN PROVENCE? MICHAEL BOOTH
DELVES INTO VALLEYS DEEP AND HILLSIDES HIGH TO ROOT OUT ITS FOODIE
SECRETS. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL PAUL
98
ascal arvicus and I are standing

in his patch of saffron crocuses,
a splash of lilac amid the green
oaks and vines, hidden well
out of sight of the road to Entrechaux.
I can hear birdsong, running water and
the buzzing of unfeasibly fat bees. I smell
honey. I am back in the Vaucluse.
Arvicus used to work in the vineyards
of Gigondas, but an injury to his hand
lost him his job. Disillusioned with the
wine world, he turned to owers. Where
there are vines and olives, saffron will
grow, he says, stroking one of the blooms.
So how many kilos do you produce
each year? Kilos? We made 600
grammes last year, he says with a laugh.
There are easier ways to make a living. It
takes several hundred owers to make a
pinch of saffron.
Persuading chefs to part with 25
for a single gram of anything is always
going to be a struggle, not least because
adulterated saffron abounds (the real stuff
leaves a yellow stain not red on your
ngers, says Arvicus). And the more
Michelin stars they have, the more difcult
it is, he grumbles. There are some exceptions:
Laurent Deconinck at LOustalet doesnt
discuss price. He just wants the best.
I make a note of the name.
icon, Mont Ventoux, as it has been for

centuries. Horses still plough between the
vines (kinder to ancient roots, you see),
goats are still herded in the hills and,
as the sun sinks and wood smoke spirals
from stone chimneys, it means that
the daube the classic Provenal stew
with its fall-apart beef and tang of citrus
is gently simmering over the embers.
My wife and I set off over the next
few days, ricocheting from the olive
mills of Vaison to the chocolatiers of
Avignon, the conseries of Carpentras to
the winemakers of Gigondas and
everywhere else in between following
a relay of recommendations, like greedy
trufe pigs chasing an irresistible scent.
Actually, trufe-hunters dont really
use pigs. They always try to eat the
trufes, says Florence Plisson, marketing
director for Plantin, probably the worlds
largest trufe wholesaler. Based on the
outskirts of the village of Puymras,
north of Vaison, Plantin is a trufe-lovers
heaven, handling around 16 tonnes of the
elusive fungus every year. This was a
tip-off from Wells, as it happens: Plantin,
which was founded in 1930, supplies his
wife Patricias annual trufe workshop, as
well as the holy trinity of Frances greatest
chefs: Ducasse, Robuchon and Savoy.
bearing sacks of the stinky black tubers.

The current price for winter trufes is
about 1,050 per kilo, says Plisson.
The Vaucluse is the best place in the
world for trufes. Prices are highest
before Christmas, but actually they are
ripest in January and early February, says
Laurent Deconinck, chef of LOustalet, a
one-room restaurant in the hillside wine
village of Gigondas that is recommended
by many as the best in the region.
With its bare wood tables and
minimalist oral displays, it wouldnt
look out of place on the Left Bank,
and has fed visitors to this bustling little
wine mecca for half a century. Three
years ago it was taken over by Francois
and Jean-Pierre Perrin. The brothers
are major names in the French wine
trade as owners of Chteau de Beaucastel
and numerous other domaines, not to
mention as managers of Brad Pitt and
Angelina Jolies vineyard, Chteau
Miraval, north of Aix. They had fresh
ambitions for the restaurant.
The idea is that we develop dishes
from the wines, instead of the other way
round, Deconinck tells me after a
perfectly executed lunch of langoustines,
pink veal and wild mushrooms. The
Ventoux lamb, for example, is classic,
LIFE IS STILL LIVED HERE AS IT HAS BEEN FOR CENTURIES. HORSES PLOUGH BETWEEN THE
VINES, GOATS ARE HERDED ON THE HIILLS, WOOD SMOKE SPIRALS FROM STONE CHIMNEYS
We think of Provence as an abundant
larder, with its orange-eshed Cavaillon
melons, coal-black olives from Nyons,
the courgettes, the apricots, the cherries,
but the truth is its remarkably difcult to
eat well in the area I think of as my
Provence. This is the western part of the
Vaucluse, the former papal territory for
500 years known as the Comtat Venaissin
or simply the Comtat.
It is a wasteland for restaurants, admits
Walter Wells, formerly of the International
Herald Tribune and a part-time resident
of Vaison-la-Romaine, in the north of the
region. He has three decades experience
of the area twice mine but I am
determined to snufe out the best that this
forgotten part of Provence has to offer
the serious eater and prove him wrong.
Vaucluse means closed valley, and
you get a sense that life is still lived here
in the shadow of that Tour de France
In Plantins reception area I am assailed

by a pungent scent: is that mushrooms,
nuts or stable oor? I dont smell it
any more, Plisson says. The aromas are
even more overwhelming in the
processing room, where workers are
busy weighing, lling jars with off-cuts
and, rather unexpectedly, X-raying. Its
mainly for the mushrooms, Florence
explains. Sellers sometimes try to increase
the weight by lling the morels with
stones or metal. Trufe farmers are not
averse to similar tricks, of course.
Sometimes they try to tape two together
to make one big one, Plantins chief
buyer, Eric Hinterlang, tells me. During
the season, from November to March, it
is Hinterlang who visits the local trufe
markets in Richerenches (Saturdays)
and Carpentras (Fridays) and receives
the steady procession of weather-worn
men with string for belts who turn up
but we have added pine nuts to give that

fatness that helps develop the avours
of the wine on your palate. Or beef with
fresh juniper that goes well with a
grenache. He serves local trufes with
cod: We salt the sh for a few hours, then
ake it with trufe. Theres a wonderful
earthiness to the dish.
Behind LOustalets kitchen is an
excellent cave, or wine shop, overseen
by sommelier Gabriel Danis, whose
CV includes the Orrery in London.
He shows us the compact, swish
accommodation recently built above
the shop, incorporating a three-storey
wall of wine. Gigondas is getting better
and better, enthuses Danis. Theres a
new generation of winemakers here now.
It is easier to be organic or biodynamic
because the Mistral wind dries out the
fungus and it is quite common to have
very ancient old vines. Swathes of
Opposite, clockwise from top left: a poppy-strewn olive grove near Beaumes-de-Venise; Costoluto Genovese tomatoes in the market at Vaison-laRomaine; candied fruits from Conserie Clavel in Carpentras; Avignons caf scene; new-season strawberries, Vaison-la-Romaine; timeless style in
Carpentras; ripening cherries; La Mirande hotel in Avignon; Provence garden roses. Previous pages, left: aperitifs and local produce at Metafort B&B in
Methamis. Right, clockwise from top left: the pool at Metafort; dessert at LOustalet in Gigondas; vineyards near Venasque; dining table at Metafort
100
102
A CONCEPTUAL ARTIST TOOK

UP RESIDENCE AT THIS
HOTEL AND INVITED VISITORS
TO SIT BESIDE HER AND
WHISPER ME YOUR STORY
104
Frances vineyards were eradicated by

the phylloxera outbreak of the mid19th century, but in Gigondas some vines
that were not grafted on to American
rootstock to combat the plague survived.
You can really taste the difference with
pre-phylloxera wines. They have an
incredible freshness. The minerality is
very high because the roots take up their
richness from deeper in the soil.
The base for our tour of the Rhne
wine villages Rasteau, Sablet, Sguret,
Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes
de Venise on this western side of the
region is La Mirande hotel in Avignon,
where, according to owner Martin Stein,
more than 3,500 people queued to get
into our bedroom. This happened last
year, I hasten to add, when conceptual
artist Sophie Calle took up residence as
part of the Avignon theatre festival, held
every July. The walls of room 20 were
hung with her work, and she invited
visitors to sit beside her on the bed and
whisper me your story.
The festival is a real carnival. Everyone
gets involved, Stein tells me. I like
the mix between this Gothic city of the
popes, the culture, and the roughness
of the place today. Its true, Avignon
potatoes. I have to teach them when they

arrive in my kitchen.
Of Avignons many charms, some
are sublime (the Muse Angladon, with
its exquisite collection of Impressionists),
and some are ridiculous (Un Peu d,
a shop dedicated to fancy loo paper
and bathroom accessories). But I regret
to say that its restaurants are resting
on their laurels: the food at one supposed
highlight, LIsle Sonnante, is almost
aggressively lacklustre, while the service
at La Fourchette, a Michelin-starred
stalwart, is comically bad (50 minutes
after being seated, our order still hadnt
been taken).
More happily, the city has one of the
best young chocolate-makers in France.
My chocolates are very simple, like me,
Aline Ghant tells me when we chance
upon her shop one afternoon. I know
from experience that creating glossy
ganaches like hers is anything but simple,
as is pairing wine with chocolate, another
of her specialities: Rasteau wines are a
particularly good match for her signature
lavender and thyme ganaches, she says.
From Avignon we motor north to
the hilltop monastery, Abbaye SainteMadeleine, in Le Barroux. While
2002. A lot of people came to see the

young, female German winemaker. I
think they imagined Id employ someone
else to do the work, and watch from a
sunbed, she says. Her rst two years
were wipeouts due to terrible weather,
but now even her husband, a Gigondas
winemaker, appears to approve of her
wine: Hes never told me frankly what
he thinks of it, but I judge by how much
is left in the bottle.
We return that evening to Vaison
on a tip from chef Deconinck: the Bistro
duO, recently taken over by a young
couple, Philippe Zemour and Galle
Renard. I ring Walter Wells, triumphant,
to invite him, but of course he is already
a regular. We dine in a room with a
vaulted ceiling, once the bishops stables,
on pigeon and an excellent spelt risotto
(spelt has been grown in the region for
thousands of years).
There is something about the Vaucluse:
fall for its charms, and you tend to fall
for good. The place does seem to
inspire a kind of dogged commitment.
Faravel bought a vineyard here, as did
Walter and Patricia Wells. Isabelle
and Philippe Lichtenthurn, and their dog
Ulysses, moved here from Switzerland
THERE IS SOMETHING ABOUT THE VAUCLUSE: FALL FOR ITS CHARMS, AND YOU TEND TO
FALL FOR GOOD. THE PLACE SEEMS TO INSPIRE A KIND OF DOGGED COMMITMENT
has an edge to it, but his hotel is one
of the most captivating in France, with
its Roman foundations, lavish,
18th-century-style decor and treasures
hidden in plain sight, such as the
Impressionist paintings which hang
here and there. Squished against the
mighty walls of Le Palais des Papes,
the 14th-century building has been home
to a rogues gallery of cardinals and
mayors over the centuries, until reopening
as a hotel-restaurant in 1990 following
a two-year restoration. There is also a
well-preserved 19th-century kitchen in
the basement, the venue for cooking
courses and intimate dinners.
We dine in the ground-oor restaurant,
serviced by the kitchen of chef JeanClaude Aubertin my kind of French chef.
No one knows how to turn vegetables
any more, he sighs, when I compliment
him on the perfect, rugby-ball-shaped
browsing the monastery shops excellent

collection of foods produced by different
orders around France Augustinian
jams, Benedictine honey, Trappist beer
we fall into conversation with one of the
51 monks who live here, Jean de Dieu,
who tells us that they also make breads,
cakes, olive oils and an excellent wine.
We continue our journey onwards to
visit a winemaker intent on rescuing
the reputation of the much-maligned
Ventoux appellation, dominated by large
cooperatives selling bottles for as little as
a couple of euros. The dodgy reputation is
changing, Corinna Faravel assures us, as
she pours generous glasses of her elegant
2011 vintage. There is still so much
prejudice against Ventoux wines, people
dont realise there are great terroirs here.
The soil is very ancient in Le Barroux.
Faravel, originally from Dsseldorf,
took over the Martinelle vineyard in
and renovated a four-storey, 17th-century

townhouse in the quiet village of
Mthamis, 30 miles east of Avignon,
turning it into a contemporary maison
dhtes called Metafort.
We were looking for a place with
lots of air and space, Philippe, previously
an executive at watchmaker Omega
for 25 years, explains as we look out at
Mont Ventoux from the attic rooms
terrace. It took us two years to restore.
We wanted to use original materials as
much as possible, but to contrast that
with contemporary furniture. As a result,
with its bare stone walls and mid-20thcentury Scandinavian furniture, Metafort
has a fresh, uncluttered feel.
That night, we open the sliding glass
doors to the rooftop patio, slowly push
the bed along its rails outside, and sleep
beneath the stars in the shadow of the
blue mountain.
Opposite, clockwise from top left: table for two at LOustalet in Gigondas; a starter of beef on a sauce of fresh herbs at LOustalet; Domaine du Clos
des Tourelles in Gigondas, owned by the Perrin family; chef Laurent Deconinck gathers spring onions in his vegetable garden. Previous spread, right:
the Chinese Cabinet room at La Mirande, with 18th-century handpainted wallpaper. Left page, clockwise from top left: a room at La Mirande; silver
spoons at the cooking school; breakfast on the terrace; vintage tableware and olive jars at the cooking school; the gourmet restaurant; cod with
owers of raw and cooked vegetables; afternoon tea in the palm court, all at La Mirande; evening view of Avignon; chef Jean-Claude Aubertin
106
WHERE TO STAY
La Mirande A 14th-century mansion with
26 rooms. Avignon (+33 4 90 14 20 20; www.
la-mirande.fr). Doubles from about 365
Le Chteau de Mazan, a former home of
the Marquis de Sade, is now an appropriately
theatrical private hotel with restaurant
(the infamous marquis held Frances rst
theatre festival in the dining rooms). Mazan
(+33 4 90 69 62 61; www.chateau
demazan.com). Doubles from about 95
Metafort A contemporary, Scandi-chic
maison dhtes east of Avignon. Mthamis
(+33 4 90 34 46 84; www.metafortprovence.com). Doubles from about 115
ILLUSTRATION: GARY VENN
WHERE TO EAT
Bistro duO New restaurant in old bishops
stables. 1 Rue du Chteau, Vaison-la-Romaine
(+33 4 90 41 72 90). About 70 for two
LOustalet Fted one-room dining room.
Gigondas (+33 4 90 65 85 30; www.
loustalet-gigondas.com). About 70 for two
Le Pont de lOrme is an exceptional-value,
pretty restaurant run by the Girard family in
their home by on the outskirts of a popular
jumping-off point for Mont Ventoux cycle
tourism. Malaucne (+33 4 90 46 17 50;
www.lepontdelorme.com). About 28 for two
WHERE TO SHOP
Truffe Plantin, Route de Nyons, Puymras
(+33 4 90 464 144; www.truffe-plantin.com)
Pascal Arvicus For saffron.
LOr Rouge des 3 Rivires, Le Jas Ngre,
Entrechaux (+33 6 15 81 21 01; www.or3r.fr)
Abbaye Sainte-Madeleine Hilltop
monastery shop. Le Barroux (+33 4 90 62
56 31; www.barroux.org)
Martinelle Wines, La Font Valet, Lafare
(+33 4 90 65 05 56; www.martinelle.com)
Aline Ghant Chocolatier, 15 Rue des Trois
Faucons, Avignon (+33 4 90 02 27 21; www.
agchocolatier.e-monsite.com)
Fromagerie du Comtat, run by Claudine
Vigier,was recently voted one of the 10
best cheese shops in all France. 23 Place de
la Mairie, Carpentras (+33 4 90 60 00 17)
Silvain Frres Traditional nougaterie. Route
de Vnasque, Saint-Didier (+33 4 90 66 09
57; www.nougat-silvain-freres.fr)
Le Vieux Moulin Artisanal extra-virgin olive
oil from local groves. Quartier Maupas,
Puymras (+33 4 90 12 02 57)
Peyrerol One of the regions nest ptissiers.
7 Cours Henri Fabre, Vaison-la-Romaine
(+33 4 90 36 04 91; www.peyrerol.com)
Conserie Clavel For traditional fruits
cont, as well as chocolates, jams and ice
creams. Place Aristide Briand, Carpentras (+33
4 90 29 70 39; www.clavel-conserie.com)
Opposite, clockwise from top left: dinner at La Mirande in Avignon; selection of cheeses at La Fromagerie du Comtat in Carpentras; caf table in the
village of La Roque Alric; a dish of roasted lamb with a garlic emulsion at LOustalet
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A TRAVELLERS TALES
AROUND THE WORLD WITH
ETHAN HAWKE
PHOTOGRAPH: BRIAN BOWEN SMITH/AUGUST
The actor and writer won praise for movies as diverse as Reality Bites and Training Day,
but it was his role in the Before Sunrise trilogy that inspired a whole generation of adventurers
Where have you just come
back from?
I was lming in New Mexico, then I
went home briey to New York, and
now Im in Toronto. Canadians are
some of the best people on the planet.
Theyre like Americans improved;
Americans without all the blood on
their hands. One of the things I love
about Canada is that its ag looks like a
symbol of peace, not war.
Where in the world have you
felt happiest?
New York City. Greenwich Village in
the summer time is heaven. I always
wanted to go to New York when I was
younger; I thought of it as a mecca
for a certain type of artistic personality,
so I kind of always longed for it
and nowhere cuts us as deep as those
places you long for as a kid. Then there
are the ones Ive come to love, like
Shakespeare and Company book store
in Paris, which is one of my favourite
places on earth. And Austin, Texas,
because I was born there.
Name a place that most lived up
to the hype
Lincoln Center Theater in New York.
When you perform there, it feels like
youre in the bulls-eye of the universe.
And a place that least lived up
to the hype
The Great Wall of China. Im going to say
something off-colour and youre not going
to print this, but I dont care if you do. Its
sort of like how my sister felt the rst time
she saw a penis. The rst time she saw
one, she was shocked at how normal-sized
it was. I felt that way about the Great Wall
of China. I heard that you could see it
from outer space, and its a very impressive
wall, but its still just a wall.
Which is your favourite city, and why?
Austin. My friendship with [writer and
director] Richard Linklater started there,
and its where weve made some of the best
movies of my life. Its kind of a magical
city because it has all the greatness of
Texas without the small-mindedness that
can sometimes accompany it. And its also
a rocknroll capital. If youre serious
about rocknroll, you gotta go to Austin.
Which is your road most travelled?

The Brooklyn Bridge. I live in Brooklyn
and I have to take my son to school
over the bridge to Manhattan. Every
time I look at it, I think of Walt Whitman.
I always imagine him walking over it.
I lost my heart in
Ive lost my heart so many times that
its hard to say. New Jersey, Paris, New
York, Vienna, California. The best
thing about losing your heart is that it
seems to nd its way back. I plan on
losing it several times more.
What do you pack first?
I have a leather bag of books for when I
get bored. I spend half my life in hotel
rooms, waiting for planes, or backstage
waiting to be called to set, so theres always
time to read something.
I LOVE CANADAS
FLAG. EVERY OTHER
COUNTRYS ONE
LOOKS LIKE A SPEAR
COMING TO STAB YOU
Describe your favourite view
Im trying to say this in a way that doesnt
sound corny, but if I see all four of my
kids at one time, thats my favourite view.
And I couldnt give a shit where we were.
Whats your favourite place youve
been for work?
When I was 18, I lmed White Fang in
Alaska for six months, and it was one
of the most incredible experiences Ive
ever had. I still dream about it.
Describe a memory from a
childhood holiday
Camping in the Rocky Mountains with
my dad, I remember waking at night and
watching beavers building a dam. Its
probably part of why Richard [Linklater]
and I put a father-and-son camping scene
in Boyhood. I spent the most valuable
time with my dad away from the world.
Where did you go on your first
holiday without your parents?
London, when I was 16. Then I took the
boat to Calais for a month of inter-railing
and exploring Europe. I was incredibly

anxious to grow up and I was not doing
well at school, and my mother broke
down sobbing and said, Is there anything
I can do that will make you take your
school work more seriously? And I said,
If you let me go to Europe by myself
this summer, Ill make the honour roll.
So I got to go by myself. I actually saw
a very young Kenneth Branagh on stage
in London and was wildly inspired.
Tell us about a great little place
you know
Le Grainne Cafe in New York has
great coffee. Its my favourite place
for breakfast.
Whats the smartest hotel youve
ever stayed in?
The Htel de Crillon in Paris; even the
toilets probably cost a million dollars.
But I dont really like fancy hotels.
I dont feel comfortable if its too fancy;
you feel like if you spill your coffee,
youll be put in jail. The best hotel I ever
stayed at in Paris was called the Htel
Duc de Saint Simon. Its very tucked
away, and I just loved it.
I would never, ever go back to
The only place I really dont want to go
back to is prison Can I say that?
Who is the most interesting person
youve met on your travels?
I once saw Lawrence Ferlinghetti read
poetry. He had probably the most
interesting eyes of any man Ive ever met.
Which foreign phrase do you use
most often?
None. Im hopeless with languages.
Probably gracias, although I still dont
use it enough.
What would you most like to find
in your minibar?
Anything alcoholic.
How do you relax?
My favourite thing about travelling is
walking around places I havent been
before. When I arrive anywhere, Tokyo
or Bucharest, urban or rural, Ill just
go for a walk.
Ethan Hawke was talking to Francesca
Babb. His latest lm, Boyhood, is
released on 11 July
This page, clockwise: a sitting

room at Vara; lemon custard with
raspberry sorbet at Hotel
Tresanton; St Mawes Harbour;
outdoor tables at Pandora Inn;
Porthcurnick Beach; shoes at the
Onda store. Opposite,waterside
cottages on Lower Castle Road
OUR SERIES OF INSIDER

UK GUIDES CONTINUES WITH...
ST MAWES
With a clutch of seriously smart places to stay, Cornwalls most rosy-cheeked shing village has
a little extra kick this summer. By Ticky Hedley-Dent. Photographs by Matthew Buck
IN BRITAIN
he Cornish shing village of St

Mawes, at the mouth of the Percuil
River, has epic views that stretch
languidly to Falmouth Bay. They
say its named after Maudez, a Celtic saint
who spent years in solitary contemplation
looking out at the calming waters. Anyone
who has queued in the Co-op in July might
nd the idea of quiet meditation laughable.
St Mawes is buzzing right now, thanks to the
relaunch of two hotels: The Idle Rocks and
her funkier sibling The St Mawes Hotel.
The owners, Aston Martin chairman David
Richards and his wife Karen, are attracting
a party crowd who catch the sleeper from
Paddington or y in by chopper for long
weekends at this laid-back hotspot.
Back in the 1970s, the harbour was
so crowded you had to step across boats
to make it to shore, and those times may
be returning. Olga Polizzi put St Mawes
back on the map in 1998 when she opened
Tresanton, turning the former sailing club
into a sleek hotel that made going on
a beach holiday in England smart again.
Then last year, The Idle Rocks was revived.
The general consensus is that competition
has been good for the village, despite
soaring property prices. It is now so affluent
that Hasbro has launched a limited-edition
St Mawes Monopoly, with St Mawes
Castle and Tresanton representing Bond
Street and Mayfair.
The rows of pastel and whitewashed
cottages, the castle and the imposing
lighthouse that stands guard on St Anthony
Head all contribute to the fairytale feel.
And the sailing is magical, too. If you go
to Salcombe in Devon, all you have is the
enclosed harbour or the English Channel.
Here you have the sheltered bay and the
Carrick Roads [a large natural harbour],
said a pro at the St Mawes Sailing Club,
where weekly races and regular regattas
culminate in Augusts Falmouth Week. Its
no coincidence that the River Fal is where
YOUNG GUNS
Sir Ben Ainslie honed his skills.
WHERE The vibe at The Idle Rocks is
The St Mawes Ferry, which goes to and
TO STAY cool but friendly. The ground
from Falmouth, shares the water with grand
oor is one large, open space,
yachts, dinghies, shabby shing boats and
and
the
terrace
is the place to be in the
rowers in their pilot gigs. Children spend
summer
(but
not
last February, when the
blissful hours rockpooling on the two small
whole
oor
got
taken
out by the storms).
beaches. And theres plenty more to do:
browsing the boutiques, lounging on nearby The hotel has risen from the ashes and
been carefully refurbished once again
Carne beach, going for coastal walks or
luckily, the re brigade saved the extensive
investigating the many fantastical gardens
modern-art collection. The 20 bedrooms
nearby. Or you could take a leaf out of St
are vibrant and contemporary. Its worth
Maudezs book and quietly contemplate
paying for a grand sea-view room: number
the view; but unlike him, why not do so on
a hotel terrace with an invigorating cocktail
15 is so close to the water you can indulge
or a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc?
private-yacht fantasies while you lie in the
free-standing bath. Little details count:

sailors hats in the kids playroom, and
gorgeous ower arrangements that blend
in with the objets dart and furniture
sourced from Paris. The breakfast is
scrumptious: try pancakes with bacon and
berries; dinner is pricey. Sister property
The St Mawes Hotel, which has just
reopened across the harbour, has a Soho
House-type feel and serves tapas and
pizzas. The owners, whove had a house
here for years, realised that prices at
The Idle Rocks were on the steep side
for locals. At The St Mawes, food and
rooms are cheaper and the style is
RITZY RENTALS
Clockwise from far left: a vintage petrol pump

in the village; the terrace at The Idle Rocks;
a chef at the Hidden Hut on Porthcurnick
Beach; cakes and meringues at The Watch
House; yachting on St Mawes Bay; the Onda
boutique; an antique lemonade dispenser at
The Watch House; the Hidden Hut
shabby-chic. There are plans for a cinema

room and a spa. +44 1326 270270; www.
idlerocks.com. Doubles from 150; sea
view from 250. +44 1326 270170; www.
stmaweshotel.com. Doubles from 140
EVERGREEN CLASSIC
Olga Polizzis Hotel Tresanton is still the
grande dame. It may not be hip, but its
certainly beautiful. Fossil sculptures, maps,
local art and objects with a nautical theme
connect the rooms with their surroundings.
Images of lighthouses are dotted around
the bar and peek out from menus, towels
and coasters. The terrace is understated, a
place to sit in the sun for hours and watch

life sail by, with the friendly babble of
fellow guests oating in the warm air. The
food is indisputably the best in St Mawes.
Order a Twitter in the bar a refreshing
vodka-and-Champagne cocktail with
a cucumber twist that slips down all too
easily. Then sample the fresh Porthilly
oysters, followed by seafood linguine or
a crab romaine salad. Under long-serving
manager Federica Bertolini, the service
is awless. There may now be a couple of
rivals in town, but the original is majestic
in her quiet condence. +44 1326 270055;
www.tresanton.com. Doubles from 200
Dreamcatchers is a slick modern house

set 200 yards above the waterside, with
an unbeatable view. Owner Amanda
Selby has had fun with colour bright
oral curtains and pink and blue zigzag
headboards. She can organise a masseuse
and private chef if you wish: therapist
Sarah Greenhalgh will massage away
the stiffest neck; and the talented Georgie
Stevens, who trained under Rick Stein,
will rustle up a three-course dinner (her
scallops with celeriac pure, candied
bacon and trufe oil are sensational).
The beauty of this place is that it has
everything. The kitchen, pimped-up with
two ovens and two fridge-freezers, is
stocked with all the kit an accomplished
cook could possibly need. The beds are
large and plump, made up with Egyptian
cotton linens, and there are games and
fancy-dress costumes for the inevitable
rainy days. You wont want to leave.
Moonrakers is the bling in Selbys crown.
This ve-bedroom diva, with its glorious
sweeping garden, is the place for a multifamily holiday. Tucked away in a secluded
part of the village, its a short stroll from
the castle. Theres room to sprawl, whether
on the terrace, the lawn, one of the wide
sofas in either of the sitting rooms or a
sun-lounger on the balcony. The style is
eclectic: modern furniture is mixed with
a mahogany dining table, a grandfather
clock and a giant glass amphora. Colourful
cushions and daring fabrics give it a modern
look. This pad is all about kicking back
and enjoying the astonishing sea view, not
that the kids will notice theyll be too
busy bouncing on the giant trampoline or
getting competitive around the ping-pong
table in the garden. Order the breakfast
box, stuffed with goodies from a nearby
farm, to start your holiday with a banger.
+44 8000 886622; www.stmawesretreats.co.uk.
Dreamcatchers sleeps eight, from 1,100;
Moonrakers sleeps 12, from 1,395 both
prices are for a three-night weekend stay
NORDIC NOOK
Interior-design fans will love Vara, a
waterfront holiday house with a Victorian
faade and fresh new interiors decorated
in Scandinavian style. With its white,
oiled-oak oors and understated, bespoke
furniture, it has a calm, grown-up look.
Design classics such as the Teddy Bear
chair will make collectors envious. Work
by local artists Myles Oxenford, Ferris
IN BRITAIN
heads up this artists colony and will guide
you through the treasures. www.thesquare
gallery.co.uk; www.watersidegallery.co.uk;
www.chrisinsoll.com
WHAT
TO SEE
& DO
FABULOUS FERRIES
Take the St Mawes Ferry to

Falmouth and spend a day
nosing around its independent
galleries and shops. For a mornings walk
from Place to St Anthonys Lighthouse,
catch the Place Ferry. Another option is
to charter a RIB (inatable speedboat) to
the award-winning Pandora Inn on the
edge of Restronguet Creek, and soak up
the rays on the pontoon while tucking
into half a pint of local prawns. +44 7971
846786; www.stmaweskayaks.co.uk
GOOD CATCH
McGuinty and Gareth Edwards

sparkle in these surroundings. A pair of
range-nding binoculars that date from
World War I stand in the window, pointing
towards the Carrick Roads. Leave the
kids at home and revel in the quiet
sophistication. varastmawes@gmail.com.
Sleeps eight, from 1,200 for a weekend
Anglers of all ages will love mackerelshing on the Madeline Rose with James
Brown. Hell bring up lobster pots while
little ones drop lines over the side. They
might even spot a dolphin. +44 7891
300078; www.shandtripstmawes.co.uk
ANCHORS AWAY
WHERE THE ALL-ROUNDER
TO EAT & Bag a family-friendly booth
DRINK and tuck into moules frites or
a juicy burger at The Watch
House. Chef Will Gould sells takeaway sh
and chips out the back, serves up fabulous
homemade cakes all day and transforms
the place into a smart restaurant at night.
Book ahead in summer, and dont miss
lobster night. +44 1326 270038; www.watch
housestmawes.co.uk. About 70 for two
Clockwise from top left: the manicured garden,

and ping-pong table, at Moonrakers; a cottage
on Grove Hill; cream tea at Hotel Tresanton
SWEET TREATS
Anyone with children should explore
Fudge & Moore, which sells delicious
ice cream and fudge, as well as shrimping
nets, model lighthouses and buckets
and spades. +44 1326 270126; www.
fudgeandmoore.co.uk
SECRET SUPPER
For a foodie adventure, try the Hidden Hut
CORNISH CHIC
WHERE Grace & Favour is the place
on a feast night. This tiny, open-air caf
above Porthcurnick Beach is run by Simon TO SHOP for oaty dresses, kaftans,
pumps, charm bracelets and
Stallard and his Cornish girlfriend Jemma
Glass. Stallard is a talented chef, with crab scented candles. For a splurge, check out
Charlie Polizzis wondrous shop Onda and
gratin, bouillabaisse and Goan sh curry
pick up some industrial jewellery, a Pazuki
among his specialities, and tickets for the
print top or a Tissa bag. www.graceand
feasts priced from 9 to 20 depending
favouronline.co.uk; www.ondarocks.co.uk
on whats cooking sell out an hour after
theyre posted online. Diners bring their
ART ATTACK
own cutlery and booze, and eat around
Its worth delving about in The Square
giant re pits on the beach. Alternatively,
Gallery. Owner Cathy Talbot has a keen
go at lunchtime for Italian meatballs,
eye and sells stunning work by local artists
Spanish-style salt-cod or king prawns, all
including Trevor Price and Rosie Scott.
served with a smile. www.hiddenhut.co.uk
For pretty seascapes, driftwood mirrors
FOR THE PICNIC BASKET
and colourful mosaics, visit the Waterside
Pop into Deli-cious and buy a succulent
Gallery. Collectors visit The New Gallery
crab sandwich to eat on the sand. And
in Portscatho, where the works of Chris
check out the homemade jams lovingly
Insoll, Trevor Felcey and Alice Mumford,
stacked in the window. +44 1326 270045
among others, grace the walls. Insoll
Bob Warren of Roseland Paddle & Sail

is dedicated to getting everyone aoat,
whether on a boat, kayak or windsurng
board. Beginners learn on the Percuil
River; the more experienced venture out
to St Mawes Harbour and beyond. +44
7970 926409; www.paddleandsail.com
THE TINY TOWER

St Mawes Castle is among the smallest
in England. Built by Henry VIII as part
of a defensive line to help protect the
coast from a possible crusade by the Pope,
it is worth visiting to admire its perfect,
trefoil-shaped gun tower. +44 1326 270526;
www.english-heritage.org.uk
FLOWER POWER
Gardeners love the Roseland Peninsula,
and its no wonder: they are spoilt for
choice. Highlights include the subtropical
Lamorran House Gardens, the extensive
grounds at Trelissick and the magical
Lost Gardens of Heligan, where you can
amble around a jungle, a wildlife-viewing
area and award-winning restored vegetable
gardens. The truly committed should
book a tour of the Tregothnan estate:
the Boscawen familys garden has an
extraordinarily diverse collection of rare
plants and trees from around the globe.
Get lost in the worlds only camellia maze,
then chill out with a cream tea made from
fragrant leaves grown on site.
all in
the detail
Sumptuous settings, bespoke touches, exceptional cuisine and personal service.

Small Luxury Hotels of the World properties set the blueprint for haute hotels worldwide
Clockwise from top:

Rooftop restaurant Un
Piano Nel Cielo, Casa
Angelina on the Amal
Coast; Sunset at Cascadas
Suspendidas, Hacienda Na
Xamena Hotel on Ibiza;
Ocean Pool Villa, Kandolhu
Island in the Maldives;
Suite at Htel Belles-Rives
on the French Riviera
heer luxury is always discreet ostentation

verges on the tacky. So, when you want to check
in and know everything will be pared-back to
perfection, Small Luxury Hotels of the World
is the name to trust. Its gilded insignia is proof youll
be handed uffy-as-a-cloud towels at the pool, fresh
frangipanis will adorn your bath, and the hotel owner
will share insider cultural knowledge with you.
As the independent boutique hotel specialist, Small

Luxury Hotels of the Worlds name is synonymous
with intimate, family-run properties. With a current
portfolio of 520 hotels in over 70 countries, the
diversity is unrivalled. With every long and short-haul
holiday base covered the brand is the discerning
adventurers go-to source for the nest addresses.
Three hot new recruits to the group illustrate
the breadth of hotel style that typify this well
curated collection.
First, is the Hacienda Na Xamena Hotel in Ibiza,

a clifftop retreat set in a nature reserve. Here,
boundary between outside and inside blurs, thanks to
oversized windows, myriad patios and clever planting.
The highlight is La Posidonia spa, home to eight
interconnected salt water lagoons, forming an outdoor
thalassotherapy circuit with breathtaking vistas.
Shinagawa Beach on Sri Lankas south west coast
adopts a Japanese aesthetic. Sleek lines create a sense
of harmony in all 26 rooms that boast idyllic Indian
Ocean backdrops. Take a safari along the Madhu
Ganga River to see pristine mangroves. After dark,
dine on rock salt marinated Shinagawa grilled lobster
at the decidedly hip Salt Restaurant. By day, indulge
your inner diva with full butler service.
The diving cognoscenti will nd utopia at Kandolhu
Island in the northern Maldives. The colourful house
reef counts turtles, Napoleon wrasse and Parrot sh
as residents. This villa-only haven offers three dives
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tasting menu with sommelier to match.
Meanwhile on the French Riviera, Htel Belles-Rives
in Juan Les Pins is the stuff art deco legends are made
of. The former home of F Scott Fitzgerald, interiors
give a nostalgic nod to the heady era of the Twenties.
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THIS MONTH ON
CNTRAVELLER.COM
FIND YOUR PERFECT SPA
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
PHOTOGRAPH: MARY ROZZI
OUR BRAND-NEW ONLINE SPA SECTION WITH THE BEST

IN-DEPTH REVIEWS, INSIDER TIPS AND GREAT DEALS IS THE
SMARTEST WAY TO BOOK YOUR NEXT HEALTH TRIP
THE EXPERTS
This months Gadgets Family Food Books Health Advice

EDITED BY ISSY VON SIMSON
WHAT YOU WANT AN INTREPID MIDDLE-EASTERN INSIDER

WHO YOU NEED AMELIA STEWART OF SIMOON TRAVEL
There comes a point when wanderlust kicks in again, when the travel bug that took its rst bite on a gap year renibbles decades
later. You ponder how a long weekend in Marrakech could be ramped up by looking slightly eastwards. But it is daunting, that
Arab Spring belt and its neighbours: Tunisia, Libya, Egypt, Sudan, Jordan, Syria, Lebanon and the Stans. And travelling in those
regions comes with challenges: political unrest, ominous bureaucracy, a lack of infrastructure and poor accommodation. This
is where Amelia Stewart comes in. She loves nothing more than confronting Western misperceptions of these countries (her rst
trip to the Sinai Desert at age 16 sparked a love affair with this part of the world). Groups are small and often led by specialist guest
lecturers (academics, authors, photographers); its as much about education as experience. Stewarts stellar network of friends
and colleagues on location opens all sorts of doors and grants access to the inaccessible: locked temples, secret swimming oases,
private tours of architectural sites. And it can get quite lefteld, too: her last group appeared on Uzbekistani national television.
Next, Stewart has her sights set on the dramatic, unexplored landscapes of eastern Turkey and Kurdistan, and shes eyeing up the
desert in Mongolia, too. +44 20 7978 0508; www.simoontravel.com ISSY VON SIMSON
THE EXPERTS... GADGETS
GEEK GEAR By George Duffield
Any fool can pack one of everything; the real art is packing everything into one.
This month, the Geek has found items to assist you in this Sisyphean task.
TERRAFUGIA
FLYING CAR
The holy grail of convergence.
Part helicopter, part plane, part car,
the TF-X (above) uses the same
vertical-take-off-and-landing
(VTOL) technology as US military
aircraft. If this bad boy works, travel
is changed for ever. The eight-to10-year development period may
sound too long a wait, so in the
meantime place a 6,000 deposit
on the non-VTOL Transition, in
production. www.terrafugia.com;
Transition about 166,000
COLONEL LITTLETON
NO.11 SURVIVAL BELT
Survival is a preoccupation of the
Geek. So a belt that not only holds
up your trousers but would allow
you to abseil down a cliff if necessary
deserves respect. It isnt pretty, but
youll be smug when you need it.
www.colonellittleton.com; about 100
SOLARMONKEY
ADVENTURER
iDevices drain power rapidly, so
a back-up battery is vital. Combine
this with an efficient solar panel
and youre in business. Leave this

in the sun, then charge your iPad
overnight now thats going offgrid. www.powertraveller.com; 85
FALKE COTTAGE
SLIPPER SOCKS
Nothing hi-tech here, but the
combination of two essential items
makes these Geek-worthy. For an
autumn trip to a cottage up north,
what could be better? Convenient,
warm, compact just dont show
them to anyone but a legally lockedin partner. www.sockshop.co.uk; 46
Clockwise from top left:

InterContinental Marseille;
InterContinental Berlin
Deluxe Room Westwing;
InterContinental
Amsterdam La Rive
Terrace; Champagne
Suite; View of Marseille's
port; InterContinental
Amsterdam Exterior
rewarding travel
Explore the cultural gems that Europe has to offer and
add to your experiences by earning points through the
world-leading IHG Rewards Club
aving upgraded its earning structure in July,
guests at InterContinental hotels in Europe can
now enjoy four times more points*, on average,
per stay and unlock a range of special perks,
unbeatable discounts and travel extras worldwide.
Weve picked our three favourite destinations.
Having been on the international scene for 60 years,

InterContinental Hotels & Resorts is dedicated to
making its guests stays as special as possible by
enriching their visits with unique experiences that are
full of local insight. Whether it be the glamour of Paris
or the allure of Italy, each of the 30 InterContinental
hotels across Europe strive to celebrate the character
and culture of the cities within which they reside.
Fun-loving, diverse Berlin is top of our list of mustvisit cities. Wealthy with museums, art galleries,
glhwein-laden pubs, chic bars, minimalist restaurants
and renowned wrst-serving cafs, Germanys
enigmatic capital has a contagious vibrancy. Whether
you plan to discover Berlins art highlights, visit the
Reichstag Dome and Brandenberg Gate or revel

in the citys lively nightlife, InterContinental Berlin
personies the bold dynamics of the city with its
stylish suites, tness centre, indoor pool and variety
of restaurants and bars.
Combining charm and heritage with authentic
touches, the InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam lives
up to its name as the Grand Dutch Residence of
Amsterdam. Built in 1867 and located on the
banks of the beautiful Amstel river, the hotel
denes historical grandeur. From its Michelinblessed La Rive restaurant to its monumental
staircase, shimmering chandeliers and stunning
antique-furnished suites, theres a nostalgic glamour
betting of its history. Compact Amsterdam offers
endless experiences. The city plays home to more
waterways than Venice, boats and bikes galore, an
extraordinary offering of museums and galleries,
including the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum,
classical concerts at The Concertgebouw, as well
as the famous PC Hooftstraat shopping street.
The hotels Clefs dOr concierges are a walking
encyclopedia and will tailor their local tips
to your interests.
Then there is our favourite newcomer, InterContinental
Marseille Hotel Dieu. Housed in an 18th century listed
property (beautifully low-lit at night) and located a
stones throw away from Panier, Marseilles oldest
district, the hotel offers stunning views of Notre
Dame de la Garde and overlooks the old port. Tear
yourself away from its magnicent interior to indulge
in the citys diverse culture. Explore the many lively
streets and feast on bouillabaisse, patisserie or crpes
before heading back to your home-from-home to

relax in the 11,000sq-ft Clarins spa.
reap the rewards

IHG Rewards Club, the worlds rst and largest loyalty
programme, gives members unparalleled freedom to
decide how they wish to get the most value out of their
travels. From free reward nights, Flights Anywhere,
hotels, gift cards galore and numerous experiences,
including sushi classes, rally driving and pamper days,
the opportunities are vast. Guests visiting any of the
4,704 IHG hotels worldwide can sign-up for free
membership and reap the rewards from the start.
To sign-up for free membership and check
out the range of special offers available to
IHG Rewards Club members visit
intercontinental.com/change
*Based on data for stays at InterContinental Hotels & Resorts hotels in Europe between January 1, 2013 and December 31, 2013. For full IHG Rewards Club programme
terms and conditions please visit www.ihgrewardsclub.com/terms 2014 InterContinental Hotels Group. All rights reserved. Most hotels are independently owned and/or operated.
THE EXPERTS... FAMILY
CHILDREN IN THE
HAMPTONS
This playground for wealthy New Yorkers has a reputation for

being unnervingly exclusive. But, says Charlotte Pearson Methven,
who spent every childhood summer here, its actually a fun and
down-to-earth spot where your crew will relish the fresh-air freedom
Smart New Yorkers refer to the Hamptons

the area of Long Island comprising
Southampton, Bridgehampton, East
Hampton and adjoining villages such
as Sag Harbor, Sagaponack and
Amagansett simply as The Beach. No
matter what else you do here, the time
spent amid the dunes, watching the
Atlantic waves roll in, will top it all.
Parking is notoriously tricky without a
residents permit, but there are ways
around it. One solution is cycling: hire
from Bermuda Bikes Plus and they will
deliver to your house or hotel. Another
is to aim for beaches with car parks, such
as Sagg Main Beach, East Hampton
Main Beach or Atlantic Beach in
Amagansett, where it is possible to pay
and display (about 10 per day). Despite
the number of people who ock here
during July and August, theres plenty
of space in which to relax and teach the
children boogie-boarding. Atlantic Beach
has a good snack shack, which is a handy
spot to pick up lunch the lobster
roll is delicious. For an entirely different
experience, enjoy a rare moment of
solitude at the very sheltered Louse Point
Beach in Springs, north of Amagansett,
a source of inspiration for artists including
Jackson Pollock and Willem de Kooning;
Napeague Beach in Amagansett is
similarly uninhabited.
When venturing out to eat, top of the

list should be Bay Burger (1742 Sag
Harbor Turnpike). Tucked away off the
main road linking Bridgehampton and
Sag Harbor, its a dream for classic
American food, with grilled-cheese
sandwiches, hot dogs and some of the best
burgers and milkshakes in the area, as
well as soda fountains with free rells
and homemade ice cream (for those
seeking something healthier, theres a
good iceberg-wedge salad). The vibe is
Clockwise from left: a house in Sag Harbor;

sandwiches at Marys Marvelous; Montauk
Beach; Sag Harbor; a beach and street
in East Hampton; Flying Point Beach,
Southampton; lunch at LT Burger, Sag Harbor
PHOTOGRAPHS: MELANIE ACEVEDO; CORBIS
HERE YOULL FIND GRILLED-CHEESE

SANDWICHES, HOT DOGS AND SOME OF THE
AREAS BEST BURGERS AND MILKSHAKES, AS
WELL AS SODA FOUNTAINS WITH FREE REFILLS
Seventies retro, with an old-fashioned

black-and-white letter board spelling
out the (very limited) menu. Adjacent
to the informal main restaurant is a
playroom stuffed with toys, a TV playing
cartoon favourites on repeat and a
Wikki Stix wall where children can leave
their names. The Bridgehampton Candy
Kitchen (2391 Montauk Highway,
Bridgehampton) is equally old-school,
with a counter and stools where kids
perch and eye up ice-cream avours such
as black raspberry and banana. For the
best ices around, head to Scoop Du
Jour in East Hampton, where Jessica
Alba, Sarah Jessica Parker and Gwyneth
Paltrow have been seen treating their
broods. Theres even a mechanical
rocking horse to keep kids amused while
enduring the queues. Marys Marvelous
has outposts in East Hampton and
Amagansett and serves breakfast (bagels,
eggs), lunch (salads, sandwiches) and the
areas stickiest baked treats (the peanutbutter cookies, pecan squares and coconut
cupcakes are particularly good).
One of the very best activities in the

Hamptons is probably the simplest:
browsing the endless stalls of ridiculously
lush produce that line the roads. Local
delicacies such as cherry tomatoes,
peaches, watermelons and corn on the
cob should be on your shopping list, and
children will love helping to ll the
basket. There are also outstanding
farmers markets in East Hampton (in
the car park of Italian restaurant Nick
& Tonis) and Amagansett (just off Main
Street), selling fruit and vegetables,
freshly caught sh, meat for the perpetual
barbecues people have in their yards
here, and sweets and cakes that will
make your teeth tingle. Stock up on
incredible salads and sandwiches at
Schmidts Market even ordering them
is an adventure or book the in-house
catering for dinner parties; specialities
include a classic lobster bake.
The big thing in watersports right now

is SUP (Stand-Up Paddleboarding).
It involves standing on a surfboard and
paddling through the waves; its good
exercise for grown-ups and great fun for
children, too. Paddle Diva, run by the
enthusiastic Gina Bradley, operates
THE EXPERTS... FAMILY

out of Three Mile Harbor, near
East Hampton, and offers kids clinics,
private lessons, races, paddling parties
and guided nature tours through
some of the areas calmest waters. There
are also SUP yoga classes: essentially
yoga practised on the paddleboard,
which is terrifying and usually involves
a tumble into the water for everyone
but the most coordinated. Back on dry
land, children can do yoga at various
studios; the most enjoyable is KamaDeva
Yoga in East Hampton, which hosts
Yoga-tastic Theme Tuesdays when veto seven-year-olds turn up in the early
evening wearing their pyjamas to relax
into basic postures, play yoga-themed
games and practise their breathing
before tucking into milk and organic
cookies, naturally.
The Childrens Museum of the East

End in Bridgehampton is a rainy-day
godsend, packed with adventures for
kids from toddlers upwards. There is a
changing schedule of classes and activities,
as well as permanent attractions which
include lots of dressing-up and exploring
everything from native insect life to the
areas seafaring past; kids even learn
how potato chips (thats crisps to us) are
made. And what child wouldnt enjoy
taking part in a Saturday-morning
splatter-painting class? Its held at Jackson
Pollocks former home, known as the
Pollock-Krasner House, in Springs. The
Goat on a Boat Puppet Theater in Sag
Harbor runs art and puppetry classes for
children, as well as shows, playgroups
and family workshops aimed at instilling
a love of the creative arts.
Crabbing is big in the Hamptons, and

local hardware shops will provide all the
equipment, including rods and the wire
from which you dangle your bait: raw
bacon. Two of the best crabbing spots are
Sagaponack Pond and Georgica Pond.
Feeding the ducks on Davids Lane Pond
in East Hampton is another pleasant
way to while away the hours.
Southampton and East Hampton are the

main shopping hubs on this part of Long
Island, with plenty of options for the
young ones. The Lilly Pulitzer shop in
THE BIG THING IN WATERSPORTS RIGHT

NOW IS STAND-UP PADDLEBOARDING, WITH
PRIVATE LESSONS, RACES, PADDLING
PARTIES AND GUIDED NATURE TOURS
PHOTOGRAPHS: MELANIE ACEVEDO; INTERSECTION/NILS SCHLEBUSCH
cottage from about 460 a night) has

13 cottages, seven suites, a swimming
pool, tennis court, gym, restaurant and
even a playground. The two-bedroom
Carriage House at 1770 House (from
about 495) is a great option for families.
But, in truth, hotels are not really the
done thing here. Its all about houses: the
bigger, the better. In fact, ogling all the
local millionaires palaces, which are
particularly stupendous along a road
named Gin Lane in Southampton, is a
fun thing to do. Websites such as www.
vrbo.com and www.homeaway.co.uk
enable visitors to connect directly with
Hamptons homeowners and allow you
to rent by the week. For greater peace
of mind, you can use the services of an
agent, but you will usually have to rent by
the month. Corcoran knows the area
inside out and has dibs on some seriously
impressive beach houses. Another option,
especially for those intending a shorter
visit, is Gansett Green Manor (threebedroom cottage from about 280) in
Amagansett, which has private studios,
suites and cottages scattered across two
acres of pretty gardens just off the main
street. It is like a commune where kids
can go free-range and roam around in
a pack, as everyone gathers together in
the garden; its not at all unusual to
see families who have only just met
sharing an evening barbecue.
Clockwise from above: The Mill House

Inn, East Hampton; Flying Point Beach,
Southampton; ice cream in Mattituck.
Opposite, clockwise from top: Amagansett
Beach; an Airstream on Ditch Plains
Beach; Mulford Farm, East Hampton
East Hampton is the perfect place to

buy preppy takes on kids clothes such
as tunics, swimsuits, sundresses and frilly
shorts; the designer is given ample
mention in the tongue-in-cheek Ofcial
Preppy Handbook. Youll also nd
outposts of other classic American
favourites including J Crew, Ralph
Lauren, Calypso St Barth and Tory
Burch, and on East Hamptons Main
Street there is a branch of Dylans
Candy Bar, a utopia for children, owned

by Ralph Laurens daughter and lled
with every sweet under the sun.
Theres a clutch of little-known hotels

in East Hampton, if thats what you
are after: The Mill House Inn (doubles
from about 135) is a superbly pretty
B&B done up in a chic seaside style;
East Hampton Point (two-bedroom
Ideally, skip the migratory traffic from

NYC on Route 27 and hire a chopper
from Helicopter Flight Services, but
otherwise the Hampton Jitney is an
experience in itself, an air-conditioned,
fully Wi-Fid, upmarket bus ride. It
departs from various places across
Manhattan, as well as from all the
airports in the NYC area. Its how the
Sex and the City girls made their way east
and is hard to fault. But bear in mind
that, particularly with children in tow,
a hire car is useful to have in the
Hamptons, where attractions are spread
out between Southampton at the
near end and Montauk at the furthest
point. There is also a train service from
Penn Station, just below Midtown,
but this is less convenient. Early spring
and late autumn, when the last New
Yorkers have headed home, are some
of the best times to visit.
THE EXPERTS... FEASTING
MACKEREL
EAT ME By Joanna Weinberg

You can always nd somewhere hot
to go, but that doesnt necessarily make
it summer. Summer is ladybirds and
butteries, ice cream and cold beer, drowsy
afternoons and long, light evenings. As
much as anything else, summer is a scent.
In England, newly mown grass and hot tarmac; in Greece, wild
rosemary baked into the side of a rocky hill;
in the South of France, pine needles lacing
sandy paths to the beach.
And everywhere, barbecues: seared, smoky
esh, caramelised onions, a hint of garlic,
the tang of lemon, the fragrance of fresh
herbs wafting across in tiny twisters of
savoury temptation. Show a man a re and
wave some meat in front of him, and he
regresses by a few millennia before youve
managed to mutter marinade.
Its never so true or so satisfying as
on the beach. While meat is the go-to for a
garden cookout, sh makes sense when you
are by the sea, particularly if youve got a
chance to catch it yourself. Oily sh such as
mackerel are perfectly suited to the barbecue.
They say that to catch them, you simply lean
over the edge of the boat and beckon. On
the side, serve warm new potatoes tossed
with olive oil and very nely chopped garlic and a salad of
deep-pink beefsteak tomatoes, sliced and overlapping onto a
platter with a thick, mustardy vinaigrette, a scrunch of sea salt
and plenty of ripped basil or mint over the top. If youve thought
ahead, a green sauce whizzed up from parsley, mint, anchovies,
garlic, mustard, capers and olive oil will be perfect alongside. If
youre out on the water, a squeeze of lemon will go a long way.
THIS MONTHS RECIPE

Theres no need to scrape the scales off a
mackerel, as the delicate esh benets from
the added protection. If theyre small ones,
its not necessary to gut them either. What
you need, more than anything, are plenty of
bay leaves and a hinged wire basket. Lay the
sh over a layer of bay in the basket, scatter
with coarse sea salt, and make sure the re
is reduced to embers and smoke and the
bars of the grill are very hot before you start.
Once the sh are on, dont be tempted to
move them until theyre ready to ip each
side will need three to ve minutes. Theyll
continue to cook even off the barbecue, so
remove them just before you think theyre
done, when the skin is blackened and the
esh is starting to slip away from the bones.
Mackerel is my favourite fish for an

La Grille Classic Gamay Ros 2012 (7.29) is recommended,
abundance of reasons. Of all the ways to
and for the saucier sh I suggest Torres Via Sol Ros 2012
prepare this versatile creature from
(5.59, and at Majestic for 6.49). Also consider Yapp Brothers
mackerel pt made with Greek yogurt and
special summer ros case, two bottles each of six wines. It contains
butter to escabeche where barely cooked
a Sancerre from Andr Vatan for the basic sh and, for the garlicky
llets marinate for 48 hours in a cold, spicy, lemony broth
one, the vivacious Chteau la Canorgue 2013 from the Luberon.
sticking it whole on the barbecue is the only one where the
The case costs 155, ordered via sales@yapp.co.uk or +44 1747
drinker can venture outside the choice of white wine. Is it
860423. You have no choice but to shop by the case at Majestic,
the oiliness, enhanced by the re, which
though the minimum nowadays is a
UNAFRAID TO BLUSH
effects this transformation from a
half case, six bottles, and it too offers
white-wine only dish into a red/ros one
a splendid line-up of ross. For the shWHEN FACED WITH
as well? I think so. Certainly a light red,
HOT COALS AND A DEAD lemon combo, I suggest Pied Tanqu 2013
chilled Beaujolais, for example, will suit
(5.49), Domaine La Chautarde 2013
MACKEREL, I AM
the sh when cooked over ames but,
(7.49) and Chteau Pigoudet La
unafraid to blush when faced with hot
GOING TO RECOMMEND Chapelle 2013 (9.34). Majestic also has
coals and a dead mackerel, I am going to
three superb Ctes de Provence ross
ONLY ROSS
recommend only ross this month. Two
in magnum sizes, all on the leaner side:
rules (or rather, helpful suggestions): if the sh is served from
M de Minuty 2013 (25), Chteau de Berne 2013 (27.50) and,
the barbecue with just the addition of lemon juice, then the
best value of all, the supremely elegant Aix Coteaux dAix en
lighter, onion-skin-hued Provence/Languedoc-style ross are
Provence 2013 (19.19). For mackerel with the salsa, I counsel a
to be preferred, but if you serve it with that salsa, then you
sassier Majestic ros, Pizarras de Otero 2013, which is on sale for
need something with more bite. Where to shop for either or
7.49 until 1 September. It is a most engaging Spanish mouthful,
indeed both styles? For a start it is difcult, on quantity grounds,
offering hints of candied chocolate as a nal ourish to an overall
to beat Waitrose. It offers 51 ross, so for the plain mackerel
immaculate cherry freshness. What mackerel could resist that?
ILLUSTRATIONS: HEATHER GATLEY
DRINK ME By Malcolm Gluck
GREECE
HIDDEN GEMS 2014
Treasure
Islands
Some are sleepy and laidback, while others are steeped in

culture or cuisine: no two isles in Greece are the same
he Greek islands symbolise all that island

escapes should be: craggy vistas, turquoise
waters, azure skies, endless horizons. Yet,
beyond the iconic images, each island holds
an individual charm all of its own.
IMAGES: COURTESY OF GNTO, REGION OF SOUTH AEGEAN, AND MUNICIPALITY OF MILOS.
island idylls
Santorini: all sleepy laidback island on the outside, all
smouldering caldera on the inside. Actually ve islands
set around an active volcano deep in its blue waters,
this Greek island has elicited many a legend; indeed,
Cousteau looked for the lost city of Atlantis here. It also
sets the scene for beaches with white, red or black sand,
spectacular rock formations and extraordinary lunar
landscapes. Its seaside villages seem to defy gravity,
tumbling down the volcanos caldera, their elevated
status ensuring eagle-eye views of the Aegean Sea
an unforgettable backdrop to endless gastronomic
offerings (its volcanic soil supports everything from
egg plants to goats think delicious cheeses to
fabulous wineries).
Said to be formed from the petried bodies of giants
killed by Hercules, Mykonos, too, has its own
share of mystique. The Cycladic architecture of its
capital, Hora, encompasses narrow marble streets,
whitewashed houses, colourful doorways, hidden
churches and lively waterfront festivities. But look closer
and discover Little Venice, an 18th-century district
of grand captains mansions with colourful balconies
over the sea. Relax at a waterfront caf and admire
quaint windmills on the hillside above. Head south for
beachcombing of the cosmopolitan kind; head north

for a slice of Greek paradise. Revel on the so-called
Island of the Winds by sailing off on snorkelling and
shing expeditions and private sunset picnics.
cycladic charm
Clockwise from top:

Milos island, Kleftiko
caves; Naxos island,
family moments; Sifnos
island, church of Panayia
Chrisopigi; Milos island,
Firopotamos village
From Santorini and Mykonos it is but a ferry ride to

a myriad of other hotspots. Srifos is pure Cycladic
charm with its white villages, quiet harbours and
rolling hills ideal for walking and cycling and its
waters home to extraordinary old mines and WWII
wrecks. There is also a new opening this year,
Coco-Mat Eco Residences Srifos, located right on
the beach and overlooking the Aegean Sea. Naxos
is all about nature, with its stunning seascapes,
soaring mountains, fertile valleys and lush gorges, all
dotted with beautiful Venetian churches and castles
and striking cubic houses. Sun-drenched Paros is a
water-lovers paradise, with every imaginable water
sport and even beaches proffering impromptu clay
body treatments after a day in the salty waters. The
birthplace of famous poets and award-winning chefs
alike, Sifnos is about the arts be it of the culinary,
Cycladic pottery or literary variety. And then there is
Milos, whose spectacular caves and thermal springs
inspired Hippocrates himself with mysterious
catacombs, sleeping volcanoes, glorious beaches
and the wild beauty of Alogomntra adding
to the unerring romance of it all.
For further details, visit visitgreece.gr
THE EXPERTS... BOOKS
SHELF IMPROVEMENT By Giles Foden
THE GREATEST BOOK ON EARTH

Jeremy Seal on The Tree Where Man Was Born by Peter Matthiessen
Peter Matthiessen, who
died in April, claims all kinds
of distinction, as much for
his environmental activism
and his Zen Buddhism as
his ction, but its for his
nature writing that
he deserves to be
known. While the
Snow Leopard may be his most renowned
work, its my belief that his extraordinary gifts
as rapt observer of the natural world and
advocate for the transcendent emotions it
can inspire are best exemplied in The Tree
Where Man Was Born. Matthiessens account
of the travels he made in the 1960s to the safari

heartlands of Kenya and Tanzania combines poetic
reections on humanitys origins with visionary
evocations of his wanderings across the Serengeti and
around Mount Marsabit. The book is also exceptional
for the empathy it shows towards the regions tribal
people, detailing an encounter with the
marginalised Hadza in an episode of quite
luminous beauty. Its been decades since
I was in East Africa, but in the absence of
a ticket this fusion of nature writing,
travelogue and anthropology always
takes me there. Jeremy Seal is the author
of Meander (Vintage, 9.99), which was
shortlisted for the Dolman Prize 2013
TOURIST
INFORMATION
FOR
st mary mead
The home of the countrys

foremost lady sleuth and avid
gardener, Miss Jane Marple.
With its neatly trimmed hedges,
endless afternoon teas, malicious
gossip and mistrust of strangers,
sleepy St Mary Mead is the
quintessential English village.
WHAT TO PACK 1 Game

of Cluedo. 2 Note pad for
sketching intricate oorplans of
study/library. 3 A nice Victoria
sponge. 4 A watertight alibi
WHAT TO DO The amateur

dramatic society is very popular, as
is knitting (although yarn-bombing
has yet to catch on) and rummaging
around in the undergrowth.
WHERE TO STAY A number
of elderly spinsters let rooms on
sites such as Airbnb. If you request
dinner boiled beef is a favourite
please state if you desire it
under- or over-cooked.
TRAVEL ADVICE Get the

4.50 from Paddington in time for a
damson gin. Travel insurance is
essential (rest assured: if any
mishap befalls you, the culprit will
be unmasked). RICK JORDAN
PHOTOGRAPH: RONALD GRANT ARCHIVE/TOPFOTO
When characters from one travel narrative appear in another, its like
meeting the ghost of an old friend. The White Nile Diaries, by John Hopkins
(IB Tauris, 15.99), about two Princeton graduates who motorcycled from
Italy to Kenya in 1961, often produces this uncanny feeling. In Khartoum,
for example, Hopkins and his friend Joe meet Colonel Hilary Hook. This
charismatic gure later became famous for his role in Home from the Hill,
Molly Dineens 1987 documentary, which showed Hook returning to Britain
as an irascible but charming old man. Reaching Kenya, the young Americans
stay on the farm of Will Powys, brother of the Welsh writer, John Cowper
Powys. Id read about the African branch of the Powys family in the journals of Wills niece, the
poet Mary Casey, as collected in A Net in Water and Under the Shadow of the Oath. Both
are neglected classics, the latter dealing with Mau Mau uprising in the 1950s. At one point,
Hopkins gets into a st ght with a red-haired big-game hunter. This was probably Derrick
Dunn, affectionately known to Africans as Bwana Siagizi (Mr Sleepy) because of the shape of
his drooping eyelids, according to Brian Herne, author of White Hunters: The Golden Age
of African Safaris. Dunn also appears in Jane Goodalls autobiography, Africa in My Blood,
helping the primatologist establish herself at Gombe Stream on the shores of Lake Tanganyika,
by supplying chimpanzee trackers. Herne was Goodalls boyfriend, but Dunn (who was
married) also seems to have been in love with her. The White Nile Diaries reminded me
of another account of a motorbike journey in Africa at roughly the same
time: Anthony Smiths High Street Africa. Smith was also author of Blind
White Fish in Persia, a superb book about a small Oxford University
expedition in 1950 to bring back a specimen of sh thought to inhabit the
underground watercourses of Iran. Yet another two-wheel safari is described
in Roddy Owens Africa, by the amboyant Roderic Fenwick-Owen,
who also wrote a book concerning Iran, The Golden Bubble, which
controversially renamed the Persian Gulf as Arabian, possibly as part of an
MI6 plot. Briey married to a Tahitian princess, Owen remains best known
for accidentally becoming court bard to the Sheikh of Abu Dhabi. Introducing himself as a
travel writer, he was mistaken for a poet. Asked to recite a ditty on the spot, he extemporised:
Through Abu Dhabis golden sands/We walked and talked until the sea/Crept up and
disenchanted me. He was duly appointed to a post he would hold for 30 years.
THE EXPERTS... HEALTH
THE FOCUS
LATIN AMERICAN SPA ADVENTURES
The quest for a feel-good break in South and Central

America isnt as simple as hitting a destination spa,
Asian-style, and emerging a week later toned and
tweaked. Here the real healthy high is earned by
getting out into the elements: galloping across the
Patagonian Steppe (with the new smooth operator
Awasi Patagonia), trekking to ancient Inca cities,
traversing tree canopies in the jungle or getting a
blast of sea air on the coast.Gabriel ORorke checks
out two top health trips, an off-radar beach retreat in
Belize and a fresh way to see the sights in Peru
EL SECRETO, BELIZE
The pool at El Secreto

in northern Belize
Inkaterra Machu Picchu

Pueblo Hotel. Right, the
bar at El Secreto
COCA-LEAF OIL,
THE SAME
LEAVES THAT
MAKE THE DRUG,
GETS THE
BLOOD FLOWING
INKATERRA,
PERU
Say hiking and Peru in the same breath

and most people think of the Inca Trail.
But the Inkaterra approach is as far from
backpacker-grunge as it gets. Its three
hotels are for those seeking both
adventure and creature comforts, and are
now all strung together on a new Walking
to Wellness tour, which spans the Amazon,
Machu Picchu and Cusco for 16 days of
adrenalin-pumping activities, healthy local
food and spa time. At Inkaterra Reserva
Amaznica, excursions are twice daily. The
most hardcore are in the morning (partly due

to the 5am wake-up call), taking on kneeknocking canopy walkways, cayman-ridden
rivers in a kayak and jungle hikes. Next
its on to the Andes and Inkaterra Machu
Picchu Pueblo Hotel for treks around the
everything-its-hyped-up-to-be Lost City
of Machu Picchu. After scaling the steps of
the 15th-century
Inca citadel, its
back to Pueblo for
daydreaming in the
Andean sauna, a
candle-lit eucalyptus
hut. There are also
hot-stone massages
with gems and
coca-leaf oil (the
same leaves that
make the class A
drug, so it gets the
blood owing).
The last stop
is Cusco. The
UNESCO World
Heritage city is 3,400 metres above sea level
and Inkaterra La Casonas micro-spa is one
of the few in the world where therapists
ask if you want extra oxygen with your
massage. This trip will leave you hypertoned from trekking, massaged to knot-free
oblivion and wide- and bright-eyed having
soaked up all the marvels of the Incas.
Rainbow Tours (+44 20 7666 1260; www.
rainbowtours.co.uk) offers the Walking to
Wellness trip from 6,135, including ights,
transfers, excursions and activities
PHOTOGRAPH: MARTIN MORRELL
Belize has long been a y-and-op

destination for those undaunted by the
journey (London to Belize City is 11
hours, then its a further half-hour ight
to Ambergris Caye). Theres nothing
quite as restorative as hearing the wind
rustling through palm trees, the sea
lapping on sand, and inhaling the smells
of sweet coconut and salt water. At El
Secreto days are spent either clearing
your head beside the innity pool, with its
orange over-water hammocks and
billowing white-linen drapes, or exploring
beneath the surface of the ocean. Thrill
seekers can dive the epic Great Blue
Hole or go tubing to see underground
Mayan caves. The 13 thatched-roof villas
have beach, lake or garden views but
for those looking for a serious hideaway,
theres only one real option: the spa
villa. It has a plunge pool and private
steam room, and the bliss of a double
treatment room. Therapies include an
oxygenating conch facial and a hot-seashell
massage. Ask for therapist Elizabeth and
the Marine Flush, a tightening and
brightening red-algae-and-plankton mask
followed by a bracing, circulation-boosting
massage. It drains uids and toxins
and afterwards you feel light enough to
walk over waves. Beyond this, there are
plenty of foodie highs, including lobster
ceviche and a phenomenal gazpacho.
But this place is also about loosening up,
and its difcult to steer clear of the sh
tacos and award-winning key-lime pie.
Journey Latin America (+44 20 8622 8444;
www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk) offers a
ve-night Belize trip from 2,033, including
breakfast, ights and transfers
SPA GUIDE PARTY 2014
John Stauss and

Cond Nast Traveller
editor Melinda Stevens
Carsten Hansen Wood and Emily Lewis; Jonathan Thompson
Caroline Blake, Nicky Bannister

and Emma Cripwell
THIS YEARS
AWARD WINNERS
Aaron Pinkwasser, Sigrun Gordon,
Klaudia Orr and Lauren Timmer
BEST NEW DESTINATION SPA

VANA, INDIA
MOST EFFECTIVE REBOOT
SIX SENSES ZIGHY BAY, OMAN
Lucy Findlay and Abigail Barrett
BEST VALUE FOR WEIGHT LOSS

ABSOLUTE SANCTUARY, THAILAND
SPECIAL THANKS TO: FOUR SEASONS HOTELS LONDON AT PARK LANE, LAURENT-PERRIER CHAMPAGNE AND JAX COCO
MOST SOULFUL SPA

SONG SAA, CAMBODIA
BEST HEALTHY HIDEAWAY
VAMIZI ISLAND, MOZAMBIQUE
Mark Anthony McCulloch and Debbie
Flynn; David Hesketh and Anna Nash
MOST AVANT-GARDE CLINIC

LONHEA, SWITZERLAND
Polly and Ed
Nicholson
MOST CONSISTENT HIGH

PERFORMER
IN:SPA
Carolyn Reul and Erica Wong
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
Sophie Atkinson-Clark, Serena
Polly and Claire Morrissey
Clementine Hodges
and Alexandra Black
Claire Bostock and

Benjaporn
Karoonkornsakul
Violet Fraser and

Juliette Ottley
Giulia Scotti and

Nicole Samson
THE EXPERTS... ADVICE
Q
A
Q
A
Ive always wanted to go to South America, but I only

have 10 days and am put off by long ights with lots of
changes. What do you suggest?
With stopovers in Madrid, Atlanta or Miami, ights to
Latin America have always been long-winded for British
travellers: the inaccessibility partially accounts for the
allure. However, Colombian national air carrier Avianca
has now announced plans for direct ights from London
ISOBEL FINBOW
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
CNTRAVELLER.COM
above, the colonial city

that for many is the highlight of the trip. If you
can tear yourself away from its hazy magic,
with careful planning you should be able to t
in a trip to the deserted beaches of Tayrona National Park,
Medelln the so-called City of Eternal Spring and even
the Amazon jungle. Not bad in just over a week.
Q
A
I have yet to nd a sun cream that wont bring me out

in heat rash or irritate my childrens sensitive skin.
Can you give me any pointers?
Reapplying cream to hot, sandy skin can be enough to
trigger tantrums in every member of the family. A good
way to ensure youre properly protected (other than the
by-now-drilled-in advice about wearing a hat, staying
out of the sun in the middle of the day and covering up
where possible) is with a once-a-day lotion. Putting it on
only in the morning means that you avoid stressing out
your sensitive skin and endlessly having to pin down little
ones when you and they are hot and bothered. For the
kids, P20, which singlehandedly
spearheaded this type of sun
protection, has a new lighterweight spray version that still sticks
even after endless dive bombs
in the pool. For you, UltraSuns
hypoallergenic range now includes
a factor-50 that also tackles
pigmentation prevention and
cure all in one. The key to ensuring
that both of these products
work is to use enough in the rst
ISSY VON SIMSON
place at least 35ml, a generous
FEATURES EDITOR
handful. If you would feel better
reapplying throughout the day (and this is important
if you are drying with a towel and rubbing the cream
off), Vichy Capital Soleil Dry Touch is a non-greasy
lifesaver that doesnt reduce your face to an oil slick.
And the Spray Oil-Free Lotion by Clarins is equally
unslippery. After you try them, both will take a permanent
place in your wash bag.
Im thinking of doing an American road trip but dont
know which part of the country to choose. Where
should I be looking?
When most people think of hiring that convertible
Cadillac, Californias Route 66 immediately springs to
mind. But for something a bit different, try the Natchez
Trace Parkway, 444 miles of rolling green countryside
stretching from Nashville in Tennessee to Natchez
in Mississippi. This is not boy-racer territory (the speed
limit is a leisurely 50mph): the whole point is to pootle
along, roof down, music turned up, taking in the scenery.
And if youre lucky, you can go miles and miles without
seeing another car. Stop off at one of the visitor centres
along the way to pick up a map showing historic places
of interest, creeks, walking paths, picnic spots and where
to turn off for towns worth exploring (there are no cafs,
restaurants or places to stay on the route itself, but
plenty nearby). Towards
the southern end of the
trail, for example, head for
Jefferson Street in downtown
Clinton where youll nd
antebellum houses, fashion
boutique James & Leigh, and
303, a restaurant with shady
outdoor seating where you
can order a spinach salad
EMMA LOVE
and shrimp gumbo for lunch.
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID LAND
Q
A
I donthave the time to jump on a plane for a proper detox,

but I do want to do focus on keeping my eating habits healthy
at home. Whats the easiest way?
The most stress-free option is having food delivered direct to
your doorstep. Balance Box (www.balancebox.com), little sister
to long-standing Pure Package, provides three virtuous meals
and two snacks per day, packed with fresh ingredients from New
Covent Garden market. If youre serious about shedding the
pounds, go for the 1,200-calorie menu, which still involves plenty
of food: roasted peach with low-fat yogurt
for breakfast, spelt pasta salads,chicken
curries, and grapes and cashew nuts to
graze on. The only snag I found was that
the ingredients listed sometimes didnt
match what arrived.Honestly Healthy
(www.honestlyhealthyfood.com), by
vegetarian cook Natasha Corrett and
nutritionist Vicki Edgson, is geared towards
an alkaline diet, which many consider
DAISY FINER
a more modern approach than calorieEDITOR AT LARGE
counting. Everything is wheat-, gluten-,
dairy- and sugar-free, but its not as boring as it sounds, with
beetroot, ginger and carrot juice for breakfast and lentil salad with
roasted tomatoes, red onion and baked sweet potato for supper.
And for hardcore detoxers, Plenish (www.plenishcleanse.com)
delivers six bottles of cold-pressed organic goodness a day; its
cashew, vanilla and cinnamon milk is properly delicious.
Q
A
Im planning a late summer holiday for a gang of friends

something slightly more holistic and less exhausting
than a villa in Ibiza. Do you have any recommendations?
Have you thought about hiring a gulet in Turkey? Fly into
Dalaman airport, from which a VIP pick-up will take you to
Gcek harbour, about 20 minutes away, for a week on Ecce
Navigo (www.eccenavigo.com), a 112ft, ve-cabin yacht.
The boat, retrotted by owner Kaspar Fleischmann (founder
of Switzerlands Galerie Zur Stockeregg), is fantastically
smart, with classic wooden detailing and a uniformed, ngerclicking crew. Fleischmanns daughter Olivia Rajah recently
founded Ecce Navigo Tailored Retreats, which gives you
the option of mapping out your
own voyage up or down the Lycian
coast and to parts of Greece. She
can organise onboard yoga classes
led by Texan instructor Colby Hanks,
and bring in a masseuse to set up
her table on deck or on a deserted
beach under a shady pine tree. Days
are spent waterskiing, canoeing or
swimming in the cool, turquoise
CASSIANIE CORNWALL
sea, nipping to nearby islands and EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
harbours or heading out on hiking
adventures along the coast (the ancient cities of Knidos
and Caunos are fascinating). In other words, its a lot more
relaxing than partying in the Balearics.
NEW EDITIONS
VOGUE ON DESIGNERS
AVAILABLE NOW
VOGUE ON CRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA by Susan Irvine (ISBN 978 1 84949 311 6) VOGUE ON COCO CHANEL by Bronwyn Cosgrave (ISBN 978 1 84949 111 2) VOGUE ON CHRISTIAN DIOR by Charlotte Sinclair (ISBN 978 1 84949 112 9)
VOGUE ON HUBERT DE GIVENCHY by Drusilla Beyfus (ISBN 978 1 84949 313 0) VOGUE ON RALPH LAUREN by Kathleen Baird-Murray (ISBN 978 1 84949 312 3) VOGUE ON ALEXANDER McQUEEN by Chloe Fox (ISBN 978 1 84949 113 6)
VOGUE ON ELSA SCHIAPARELLI by Judith Watt (ISBN 978 1 84949 110 5) VOGUE ON VIVIENNE WESTWOOD by Linda Watson (ISBN 978 1 84949 310 9)
QUADRILLE PUBLISHING, 15 EACH
INFINITY, IBIZA
LOS ARCOS, ALGARVE
ALONI, KEFALONIA
Relaxed
ElegancE
If youre looking for a unique villa holiday where you can enjoy the
last of the summer sun, James Villa Holidays has some spectacular
properties that ensure you catch every last ray
Clockwise from top left:
Bedroom in Grand Royal
Villa III, Egypt; Exterior
of the White House, Costa
del Sol; Bedroom in Casa
Tamareira, Algarve;
Outdoor area at the
White House; Living area
at Grand Royal Villa III
ate summer and early autumn can be one of the

best times to take a villa holiday. Resorts are less
crowded, temperatures remain warm and days
feel more relaxed than at the height of the season.
Its a perfect time to pick one of James Villas elegant
villas, and with over 2,700 properties spanning 50
different destinations, there is plenty of choice for
guests looking for sunshine later in the season, with
the Algarve, Canaries and Egypt just some of the
favourites tting the bill. Theres a dream house for
everyone, whether booking as a family, or looking to
create an unforgettable week with friends.
James Villas celebrates its 30th anniversary in 2014,

and three decades of experience means you can be
sure of booking a villa thats

been expertly hand-picked for
quality and comfort. From
rustic farmhouses to James
Bond-style beachfront villas,
there are properties of every
size and type, including over
100 truly exquisite houses
that offer true luxury.
The Portuguese Algarve enjoys warm sunshine right

into October, and the villas that make up the Pine
Cliffs Resort are the perfect place to enjoy it. With
four luxurious en-suite bedrooms, stylish interiors
that mix modern art with sleek, blonde-wood
furniture and a spacious outside pool terrace and
dining area anked with palm trees, its a great
choice for a luxury family holiday.
Casa Tamareira also in the Algarve ticks every
box for a larger group. Five light, airy bedrooms and
a spacious living/dining area give plenty of room for
people to make the villa their own, while outside the
sizeable pool and terraced area is matched on the other
side of the house by a large lawned area perfect for
games. The property has its own tennis court and the
town of Lagos is just ve kilometres away.
If sangria and tapas are more your taste, then head to
the Costa del Sol, where the White House offers
gracious living in a stylish, modern villa thats located

on the outskirts of the popular resort of San Pedro de
Alcantara. Play tennis on the pristine court, curl up on
one of the elegant outdoor sofas on the cosy terrace or
stroll out to one the nearby sandy beaches.
sumptuous style
For a hit of guaranteed hot sun, theres nowhere better
than Sharm el-Sheikh in Egypt. The Grand Royal
Villa III is one of a clutch of sumptuous properties in
the Grand Rotana Resort, offering three super-stylish
bedrooms, a state of the art kitchen and beautiful pool
area that looks out onto the Red Sea. Villa guests can
make use of the resort facilities, including the fabulous
spa and in-villa dining.
Discover our exquisite

collection of luxury
handpicked villas at
jamesvillas.co.uk/luxury
Speak to a friendly and
knowledgeable James
Villas Travel Adviser
on 0800 074 0311
COMPETITION
WHERE ARE YOU?

In high season this stretch of coast is
pretty lively. The beach and its vermilion
sun-loungers disappear beneath a throng
of horizontal holidaymakers, and rather
than a lone swimmer gliding quietly by,
there are masses of frolickers churning
up the water. Even getting here can be
a challenge at that time of year, when the
corkscrew roads are clogged with cars
and buses on their way to and from a
fantastically popular archaeological site
20 miles away. So the hush of an off-peak
evening can come as a blessed relief.
Above the shore, the town rises in
semicircular tiers like a ramshackle,
multicoloured amphitheatre. Hiking up
and down the stepped streets gives your
calf muscles a workout as you go from

beach to bar to restaurant.
With its salty air and insouciant style,
this place has often been a hub for movie
stars and models looking for something
more low-key than South Beach or
St Tropez. The jet set rst heard of it
when a big-name American author gave
a glowing account of its charms in a
1950s magazine article which stopped
people in their tracks because he was
better known for writing about grinding
poverty. Where are you? CHRISTY WARD
To enter, identify the location of the beach in
the picture. Correct answers will be placed
in a random prize-draw. For competition rules
and prize details, please turn the page
PHOTOGRAPH: JULIETTE CHARVET
COMPETITION PRIZE
WIN
A HOLIDAY WORTH 2,000

For a sun-and-sea break with glorious
weather guaranteed, its hard to beat Abu
Dhabis Emirates Palace. Set on its own
stretch of sandy beach looking out over the
sparkling waters of the Gulf, the hotel is
brilliantly located for the citys best shopping
and sights; although with 14 restaurants,
cafs and bars on the premises including
Sayad for just-caught seafood and Mezlai
for traditional Emirati cooking you may
not feel inclined to go anywhere else. There
are daily yoga classes, camel rides on the
sand, two swimming pools in which to cool
off, and an Anantara spa offering treatments
including hammam rituals, detox scrubs and
Arabian or Thai massage.
Enter this months Where Are You?
competition and you could win a ve-night
stay for two, with accommodation in a
Pearl room on a bed-and-breakfast basis,
plus a dinner at BBQ Al Qasr restaurant
and airport transfers; ights are not included.
The holiday, which is subject to availability,
must be taken by 30 June 2015, excluding
the Christmas and New Year period. For
further details, call the hotel on +971 2 690
8888 or visit www.emiratespalace.ae
Identify the location,

left, and send in your
entry to arrive by
31 August. All correct
entries will also be
included in the Grand
Prize draw at the
end of the current
competition period
(1 October 2013
30 September 2014).
COMPETITION RULES
1. Entries for the Where Are You?
competition can be sent on a postcard,
by email or online (stating your full
name, address and telephone number),
and must correctly identify the place
described according to the instructions
given. 2. Entries must arrive no later
than the last day of the month on this
issues cover. 3. The Where Are You?
competition is open to readers of Cond
Nast Traveller who are 18 or older on the
date of entry, except for employees of
Cond Nast Publications, participating

promotional agencies, contributors to
Cond Nast Traveller, and the families
of any of the above. Entries by post
should be sent to: Where Are You?
competition, Cond Nast Traveller,
Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square,
London W1S 1JU. Email entries
should be sent to: compcntraveller@
condenast.co.uk. To enter online
and for full terms & conditions, visit
www.cntraveller.com/competitions
MAYS WINNER
The winner of Mays competition is David Lonsdale of
Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, who identied the picture
below as the Emirates National Auto Museum in Dubai.
He wins a holiday at Constance Lmuria in the Seychelles.
PHOTOGRAPHS: JULIETTE CHARVET; ALEIX PLADEMUNT
HOW TO ENTER
READER OFFER
BREAK FOR THE
BEACH
Save 15 per cent on a luxurious ocean-front

getaway from the Maldives to Mauritius
othing beats the feeling of kicking off your shoes

and sinking your toes into squeaky, white sand along
a turquoise-edged shore. Beach time is the focus
when staying at one of The Residence by Cenizaros collection
of smart escapes, from an over-water villa on an Indian
Ocean atoll to a Moorish-inspired hotel on North Africas
Mediterranean coast. Watersports abound, including coral-reef
snorkelling and diving, and each property has a pampering spa,
with treatments by brands such as Clarins and Carita. Cond
Nast Traveller readers have the exclusive opportunity to save
15 per cent on a stay at one of The Residence hotels in the
Maldives, pictured, Zanzibar, Mauritius or Tunis. The offer
includes a complimentary bottle of Champagne on arrival and
two massages at the hotel spa. Flights not included. The offer
must be booked by 31 August 2014 and is valid for stays until
31 March 2015, excluding Christmas and New Year.
FOR MORE DETAILS OR TO BOOK

Visit www.theresidence.com or email cntraveller@theresidence.com
INTENSIVE ACADEMIC
PROGRAMMES
At least 15 hours teaching per week,
plus studio and exhibition visits, study
time and structured project work leaving
students better equipped to pursue a
career in the fashion industry or continue
into further education.
WANT TO WORK
IN FASHION?
COME AND LEARN FROM
THE EXPERTS
UNRIVALLED INDUSTRY LINKS

Students gain advice from Cond Nasts
editors, art directors, stylists and
journalists and attend lectures given by
a broad range of inspiring leaders in the
wider fashion industry.
OUTSTANDING FACILITIES
Patrick Demarchelier The Cond Nast Publications Ltd
A state-of-the-art learning environment

in the heart of Londons Soho.
Fashion Certicate
Ten weeks, starting every January,
April and October
AMAZING RESULTS
Our courses are based on real life
and students gain extensive exposure to the
working world. Importantly, our graduates
are finding jobs all over the world.
Fashion Diploma
One year course, starting every October
Intensive Summer Course

Four weeks, starting every July
To nd out more and apply visit

www.condenastcollege.co.uk
W
OST
WANTED
W
THEA DARRICOTTE uncovers your world
SPIRIT OF THE SKIES

The high life just got even more appetising! James Fowler from
the Larder House Bar in Bournemouth has been crowned the
World Class UK Bartender of the Year 2014 following a week
of intense competition which took place on board a British
Airways A380 and its destination city of Hong Kong.
Using only the nest spirits from the Diageo Reserve
Luxury Collection the winning cocktail will now be
available to First Class customers on
British Airways ights.
Britishairways.com
loves
THE
Looking for a stylish addition to

your home? Specialist poster
gallery Pullman Editions has
a new collection of Art Deco
Travel Posters showcasing a
selection of glamorous resorts
from around the world.
395, pullmaneditions.com
LUXURY
Brazil is having a moment right

now and the fabulous fashion
house Schumacher has been
inspired. Their Jogo Bonito range
is a capsule collection and consists
of playful pieces designed to be
worn whilst having fun. From
85, dorothee-schumacher.co.uk
LUXURY
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS HAS
This punchy collaboration

between the HOTEL DU CAPEDEN-ROC and ICE-WATCH is
the epitome of style and luxury,
being waterproof it can also be
taken for a dip in the pool making
it equally practical. 150,
hotel-du-cap-eden-roc.com
TAKEN CALIFORNIA AS ITS INSPIRATION

FOR ITS LATEST FRAGRANCE AND THE
RESULT IS A HEADY MIX OF JASMINE
SAMBAC, ORANGE AND NEROLI.
IT IS SUMMER IN A BOTTLE. 69, 45ML
EAU DE PARFUM, VANCLEEFARPELS.COM
The new Hand & Body lotion for Silky Skin from Childs Farm will guarantee soft skin no matter how
adventurous your little ones are and, as with all their other products, it is kind and safe for all skin types no
matter how sensitive or eczema-prone it may be. 4.69, childsfarm.com
W
W
HEALTH & BEAUTY
Panerai have created this gorgeous Luminor

Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Titanio to
celebrate the 10th Anniversary of the Panerai
Classics Yachts Challenge. No sailing experience
HEALTH & BEAUTY
LOOKING FOR A BOLTHOLE IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE THIS SUMMER?

SCOTT DUNN HAVE ADDED THREE NEW VILLAS (COMPLETE WITH CHEF, HOST
AND NANNY) EACH ONE IDEALLY LOCATED CLOSE TO AN HISTORIC MARKET
TOWN IF YOU DO CHOSE TO VENTURE OUT. FROM 6,630 FOR TWO ADULTS
AND TWO CHILDREN STAYING FOR ONE WEEK ON A FULL BOARD BASIS,
SCOTTDUNN.COM
Hotel Arts Barcelona is launching a brand

new spa this summer with panoramic views of
the Spanish coastline and exclusive treatments by
Natura Bisse. From 245 per room per night,
ritzcarlton.com/en/properties/barcelona
HEALTH & BEAUTY
Jet-setting around can take its toll so look after your

nutritional needs with Wellwoman Boost which
is packed with natural vitality, vitamins and minerals
to promote energy levels as well as your immunity.
4.95, wellwoman.com
necessary. 8,400, panerai.com
NEOM
Who doesnt crave a bit of home
pampering? Neom Organics has a new
look and new fragrances to lift even
the most travel-weary of spirits. My
favourite has to be the Burst of Energy
Body & Hand Wash for its zesty notes of
grapefruit, lemon and rosemary.
16, neomorganics.com
Its the time

of year when
everyone goes
in search of a
holiday glow.
St. Tropez Self
Tan Express
Advanced
Bronzing Mousse
gives you exactly
that with an
even, bespoke
tan. 33,
st-tropez.com
Zesty notes abound in the new

Brazilian-inspired collection from
MOLTON BROWN. Inspired by
the Caipirinha the Caju & Lime
range is just as lively and vibrant
as you would expect.
moltonbrown.co.uk
Dom Perignon at the push of

a button? It must be The Savoy!
Press for D is the new button
available in only their nest suites
which swiftly conveys your request
to the Butler who will arrive with
a chilled bottle of Dom Perignon.
The idea was inspired by Marlene
Dietrich, a devotee of the hotel
who wisely requested 12 pink roses
and a refrigerated bottle of vintage
Dom Perignon upon arrival.
fairmont.com/savoy-london
Dream Destinations
Dream Destinations
EUROPE-UK
LA SABLONNERIE HOTEL. A convivial
corner of a beautiful island. Gorgeous
gardens, peace and tranquillity, birds,
butteries, owers, horses and carriages
no cars how could one not enjoy this
amazing paradise? You will nd this hotel
to have a great joie de vivre as well as
terric food. La Sablonnerie has recently
received the highly coveted award from
Cond Nast Johansen - Small Hotel of
the Year. Visit www.sablonneriesark.com
or call 01481 832 061.
Deelin Mor Lodge is a secluded retreat in

the midst of the Burren, one of Irelands
most unique areas of outstanding natural
beauty. This design led family home, built in
the style of an Irish Georgian hunting lodge,
accommodates up to 10 people and is
perfect for holidays, special occasions or a
weekend break. www.deelinmor.com
Tel: +353 65 708 9009.
Whitrigg House is a beautiful late 18th

century grade II listed property located in
the historic village of Clifton, in Cumbrias
Eden Valley. On the north side of the Lake
District National Park, this idyllic and friendly
home-from-home provides both comfort and
luxury, with the most charming personal
touches. Perfect for retreats or weekend
breaks. W: www.whitrigghouse.co.uk
T: 01768 895 077.
Dream Destinations
EUROPE
BOUTIQUE BEYEVI HOTEL in ALACATI,
TURKEY. Nestled in the Aegeans stylish
Alacati town, the Beyevi is an oasis of a
boutique hotel lovingly restored from old
village houses. Matching the towns allure of
vintage and contemporary style, it is the
ideal hideaway for relaxation with a beautiful
pool, gourmet cuisine and 15 stunning
rooms. E: info@beyevi.com.tr T: +90 533
602 1600, www.beyevi.com.tr
LISBON MILD CLIMATE ALL YEAR

ROUND
HERITAGE LISBON HOTELS
Live the Portuguese Charm and Tradition
in the Historic centre of Lisbon. Stay in
one of the 5 Heritage Lisbon Hotels
Collection As Janelas Verdes, Heritage
Avenida Liberdade Hotel, Hotel Britania,
Hotel Lisboa Plaza and Solar Do Castelo.
Tel: +351 213 218 200
heritage.hotels@heritage.pt
www.heritage.pt
Valencia Mindfulness Retreat, a beautiful

bed and breakfast situated in the centre
of Historic Valencia voted one of
TripAdvisors top 8 places to stay in
Spain. Indulge yourself with a visit to the
in the in-house massage room for the
ultimate pampering experience, or a quiet
moment in the early bird meditation room.
W: www.valenciamindfulnessreatreat.org
E: info@valenciamindfulnessreatreat.org
NORTH AMERICA
ZURICH
HOTEL RESTAURANT HELVETIA
The boutique hotel Helvetia with its 16
individually furnished rooms is a real jewel
among the citys hotels. The family-run
and individual hotel and restaurant offer a
home from home to business travellers,
city explorers and Zurich lovers alike.
Phone: 0041 (0)44 297 99 98
Web: www.hotel-helvetia.ch
Welcome to Galini Hotel and Villas, your

home away from home. Perched on the
imposing volcanic cliffs of Santorini, in one
of the most beautiful spots on the island,
Galini overlooks a cerulean blue immensity
with sweeping views of the volcano, the
caldera and the Aegean sea. We invite you,
our most welcomed guests, to discover our
little paradise. Visit: www.hotelgalini.gr or
Call: +30 22860 22095
La Villa de Mazamet is a luxury B&B in
the heart of SW France. Spacious
bedrooms, swimming pool, table dhte
restaurant, Le Petit Spa. Vineyards,
medieval villages, mountain lakes within
15 minutes. Visit
www.villademazamet.com
or email info@villademazamet.com
for more information.
La Maison dUlysse. Escape the bustle of
modern life at this luxuriously renovated,
17th century farmhouse and now luxury
boutique hotel; A heady mix of exceptional
rooms, vineyard views, plentiful gardens
and fine food awaits you.
www.lamaisondulysse.com
+33 6 48 77 67 70
HOTEL CLAUDE MARBELLA is a

luxurious boutique hotel, set inside a
meticulously restored 17th-century
townhouse. Perfectly placed in the heart of
Marbellas Old Town. Experience this
former artists club with its 7 uniquely
styled rooms, restaurant, patios and roof
terraces. www.hotelclaudemarbella.com
Email: info@hotelclaudemarbella.com
Tel.: +34 952 900 840.
CASA LA CONCHA, a beautiful finca

situated in the stunning Marbella
countryside just minutes from Puerto
Banus. An Old Andalusian residence, it
has been exquisitely renovated into a large
main house and 5 luxury cottages. Relax
in the living room with a drink, enjoy a
good book from their library or go explore
the hidden treasures of Marbella. Visit
www.casalaconcha.com or call +34 646
520 883.
CASA MONTANI is a luxury guesthouse in

the heart of Rome, overlooking the
prestigious Porta del Popolo. Its ve rooms
and exclusive new apartment are beautifully
furnished with the best Italian and French
brands. The atmosphere is very personal
with breakfast served in your room the
perfect haven to stay in while you explore
the city. www.casamontani.com Tel: +39
063 260 0421.
La Baronnie Hotel & Spa*** proposes
some exceptional packages to give you
the opportunity to discover the charming
Ile de R. In October: for 3 nights stay, 1
night is offered and we offer
complimentary breakfast during
weekdays Private parking / No smoking.
Tel:+33 546 092 129;
www.hotel-labaronnie.com
STONEHURST PLACE ATLANTA.

Located in the Midtown arts and business
district, this eco-friendly inn is close to the
Atlanta International Airport and many of
the citys best places to tour. Atlantas
crown jewel and global Top Ten Urban
Inn, Stonehurst Place is the perfect start
or end to a stylish US holiday or business
trip. The original 1896 architecture has
been meticulously updated and now
houses beautifully appointed en-suite
rooms and a sophisticated art collection.
Prices from 119 include gourmet
breakfast, all-day refreshments, parking
and wi-fi.
phone: +1 404 881 0722
email: info@StonehurstPlace.com
www.StonehurstPlace.com
Evas Escape at the Gardenia Inn, San

Antonio, Texas, is located in the famous King
William Historic District, the house was built
circa 1905 and is tastefully furnished with
antiques and family treasures. Whether
enjoying a stroll along the Riverwalk or
soaking in one of the antique claw foot tubs,
a stay at Evas Escape will rejuvenate your
body and spirit. W: www.evasescape.com
T: +001 210 223 5875
Dream Destinations
AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN

HOT
LIST
THE 60 BEST
NEW HOTELS
IN THE WORLD
THE ZANZIBAR COLLECTION

Exotic, Luxurious, Zanzibar!
The Zanzibar Collection is a privately
owned collection of beautiful boutique
hotels inspired by the magic of Zanzibar,
lying on one of the Top 30 Island beaches
in the world. Offering a range of water
sports, stunning spas and East Africas
only National Geographic afliated PADI 5
star Dive Centre. Baraza Resort and Spa
was chosen as one of the Worlds 60
Best New Hotels on the Conde Nast
Hotlist. www.thezanzibarcollection.com
Dream Destinations
AUSTRALASIA & OCEANIA

THE HUKA RETREATS
www.hukaretreats.com
Three sister properties in South Africa, Fiji
and New Zealand chic and understated
statements of exclusivity and seclusion, all
offering an exceptional hospitality experience
to the worlds most discerning travellers.
GRANDE PROVENCE ESTATE, South
Africa, is located within a one-hour drive
from Cape Town. This 300-year old heritage
estate offers award-winning wines, cuisine
and art gallery with superb accommodation
at The Owners Cottage and La Provenale.
T +27 (0)21 876 8600
E reservations@grandeprovence.co.za
DOLPHIN ISLAND, Fiji offers 14-acres of
Pacific private island beauty, romance and
luxury castaway time for a max. of 8
guests, on an exclusive-use basis.
HUKA LODGE, New Zealand, is famed for
its natural beauty, legendary hospitality and
absolute style since the 1920s. With just
25 rooms within 17-acres of manicured
grounds.
Contact: T +64 7 378 5791
E reservations@hukalodge.co.nz
for both Huka Lodge & Dolphin Island
reservations.
Hotel Duquesa De Cardona

Delightfully contemporary palace
hotel of the19th century, superbly
located in front of the port and just a
3 minute walk to Ramblas and the
historic centre.
Breath-taking views towards the
harbour from the cocktail-terrace
and roof top pool. A romantic
urban retreat.
For more information visit
www.hduquesadecardona.com
or call +34 932 689 090

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CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE
On The Move...
To Portugal
HERDADE DE CHAMIN
Chiado16
Boutique Hotel
To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705
Chiado16 - Boutique Hotel is a charming hotel that offers luxury accommodation with
panoramic city views, in the heart of Lisbon's historic centre - Chiado. Perched on a hill,
this beautiful 17th century building lies in a tranquil square, just a block from Chiado's
main shopping and restaurant quarter, quiet yet still in the middle of the hub bub of this
lovely picturesque ancient city.
www.herdadedachamine.com
www.casa-das-campainhas.com
+35 121 384 1616
info@chiado16.com
www.chiado16.com
COME AND SPEND
THE HOLIDAYS
OF YOUR LIFETIME
AT THE VILLA
OF YOUR DREAMS
9 bedroom Boutique holiday rental Villa Vilamoura Algarve Portugal
www.vilamarques.com
B&W
HOTEL RURAL
www.bwhotelrural.pt/
+351 235 200 000 geral@bwhotelrural.pt
STYLISH ECO FRIENDLY LUXURY VILLAS

IN COASTAL PORTUGAL
Casa Nova da Cruz, Sao Teotonio, Odemira 7630-000
M: 00351 912528505 F: 00351 283 958723
E: info@nespereiravillas.com W: www.herdadedanespereira.com
Lisbon Region
www.cookinghotel.com
On The Move...
To Portugal
On The Move...
To Greece
www.ekies.gr
your
mediterranean
hideaway
Halkidiki-Greece
Herdade gua DAlte

A Luxury Countryhouse Hotel
vora, Alentejo, Portugal
www.aguadalte.com
herdade@aguadalte.com
Vilabranca
Thera
00 351 282 769924

www.vilabranca.ie
reservations@vilabranca.ie
www.facebook.com/VilabrancaApartamentos
Where Earth, Water, Air and Fire

come together and give life to an
enchanting harmony.
Visit our website
www.stefanisuites.com
A perfect escape of 7 luxurious

villas situated on the top of the
caldera with panoramic views
of the Aegean Sea and the
unique sunset.
Aenaon Villas, Santorini, Greece
info@aenaonvillas.gr
+30 6944353400
www.aenaonvillas.com
BRATSERA HOTEL
Hydra
www.bratserahotel.com
info@bratserahotel.com
+30-22980-53971
The Merchants House
PALCIO BELMONTE
The Belmonte is about light, privacy, beautiful landscapes. An
attitude and a lifestyle. A house for whom, luxury is synonymous
of encountering ones emotions. Eleven suites, on 3700 sqm,
7 terraces, books, art, chimneys, piano, infinity pool.
A very discreet, attentive and imaginative team to give you the
best. To find the magic behind the red doors take one suite or take
it all in exclusivity!
+351 21 881 66 00 office@palaciobelmonte
www.palaciobelmonte.com
Historic charming
& stylish
Boutique B&B
Old Perithia
Corfus Oldest Village
t. +44 (0)203 490 9928
www.merchantshousecorfu.com
ITHACA GREECE
www.hotel-familia.com
On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat
Handpicked villas
Tuscany
in
TUSCANY
MONTE ARGENTARIO
Luxury Villa Rentals
Property Sales
For further information, please call 020 8246 6123

www.isolarossa.co.uk
Discover oustanding self catering

properties in Tuscany with one of the most
trusted family run agencies in the region.
Knowing and loving Tuscany since 1982.
Invitation to tuscany
020 8444 9500
www.invitationtotuscany.com
This stunning manor house in the South of France

near historic Pezenas is perfect for two families
with 5 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms. Huge walled
garden with ancient pine trees for shade, indoor
and outdoor dining, courtyard pool, beautiful
room proportions and original features yet with
modern bathrooms, air conditioning and WiFi.
www.secret-south-france.com
00 33 664 35 83 61
Luxury Villa & Spa

Spain
10 minutes from the sea
Accommodates up to 28
Ideal for big families, groups of friends, corporate retreats, weddings and events
Reservations tel. 0034 619 101 194 www.mastorroella.com
25 years of experience renting hand-picked villas in Tuscany
+44 207 684 8884
tuscanynow.com
On The Move...
Handpicked Properties
with Private Pools
A selection of beautiful individual
villas & houses with pools in
tranquil settings & areas of
traditional local culture.
*5((&(63$,1
/$1=$527(
%$/($5,&63
2578*$/)5$1&(
,7$/<&52$7,$
Now in our 23rd year
Call for a brochure or to speak to one of our specialists

2787
01954 261431
or visit our website

www.vintagetravel.co.uk
V5643
CREEKSIDE COTTAGES
Island Cottage
Holidays
The Foreshore, Nr Falmouth,

Cornwall. Sleeping 8.
For complete peace and
tranquillity this large house is set
in an idyllic waters-edge setting.
A beautifully landscaped, gently
sloping enclosed garden down to
the edge of Mylor Creek.
Dogs Welcome.
Just come and Relax.
Isle of Wight & Dorset
Holiday cottages in beautiful rural

& coastal locations
01929
0
1929 481555
55
www.islandcottageholidays.com
www
islandcottageholidays com
01326 375972
www.creeksidecottages.co.uk
Corte di Gabriela
THE
MANSION
R E S O R T
H O T E L
&
S P A
Borgo San Felice
Chianti Classico, Siena, Tuscany
Where Arts & Leisure meet
UBUD
BALI
info@themansionbali.com - www.themansionbali.com
An enchanting spot set amidst vineyards

and olive groves
www.borgosanfelice.it
info@borgosanfelice.it
Tel. +39.0577.3964
A 4-star hotel just a short walk from

Piazza San Marco, Corte di Gabriela
awaits you with typical Venetian
hospitality in Venices most fascinating
and ancient district San Marco,
conveniently situated for easy access to
the Rialto, La Fenice theater and
Palazzo Grassi.
Rooms at the Corte di Gabriela feature
an elegant combination of
contemporary design and classic
Venetian styled furnishings, enhanced
by a discerning choice of fabrics,
delicate lighting effects and refinement
in every detail.
With no two rooms alike, the hotel
provides the most modern comforts
and amenities, seducing guests with
emotional ambiances, damask fabrics,
splendid table lamps and circular beds.
info@cortedigabriela.com
+39 041 5235077
On The
Move...
On The Move...
To Spain
Tel: +34 956393010

Fax: +34 956189200
E-mail: info@vinadealcantara.com
www.vinadealcantara.com
Villa in Marbella, Spain.

Rent per week: Euro 3,000.
For more information, please email
Palm.Marbella@gmail.com
La Maison DAix 1785
La Maison DAix was once an elegant and private mansion belonging to priestess of love and well
known antiques dealer Henriette Reboul. After 3 years of complete restoration and renovation, the
architect Laura Juhen has turned the mansion into an atmospheric and refined little boutique hotel
in the heart of Aix-en-Provence. Nothing at this chic retreat has been left to chance and the result is
a stunning masterpiece. The 4 rooms at La Maison d'Aix are exquisite and have been decorated
with a real eye for detail. The Corset, Henriette's Bedroom, the Secret Garden and the Love Suite,
each of the rooms and suite is entirely devoted to comforting the body and mind whilst fitted with
the latest technology.
www.lamaisondaix.com
T: +33 4 42 53 78 95
In the Empord (Spain); hostalsarascassa.com
Affordable
luxury
Cond Nast Traveller reminds you to ensure that when

booking a package holiday to check that the travel
company has arranged a bond, in order to provide
nancial security through a trade association
(eg ABTA), insurance, or a trust account.
Tailor-made holidays in Chile,

Argentina, Peru, Brazil and Bolivia
Tel: 020 7730 5959
www.chiletours.org
Email: London.chiletours@btinternet.com
INDIA
Htel Original Paris

8, boulevard Beaumarchais
75011 Paris (France)
t +33 (0)1 47 00 91 50 f +33 (0)1 47 00 06 31
info@hoteloriginalparis.com www.hoteloriginalparis.com
Guaranteed Sighting
Romance with the Taj
Bespoke tours on India, Burma, Vietnam and China.
GOA/KERALA 14 nights from 897 inc ights.
Quote Cond Nast for further information!
To travel in style call 020 7258 7800 or visit www.goaway.co.uk
Germany
CHILE TOURS
France
SOUTH AMERICA
Madeira
Travel
Switzerland
Italy
Spain Mallorca Portugal
Tailor-made holidays to
a delectable collection
of hotels across nine
destinations by air, sea,
rail or accommodation only.
Visit our website for
fantastic special offers
and inspirational ideas
Capri
Marbella
VIEW WITH A ROOM
WHERE ARE WE? ALILA JABAL AKHDAR, OMAN

TAKEN FROM THE SURROUNDING AL HAJAR MOUNTAINS
WHY WE LOVE IT The most striking thing about Jabal Akhdar, the newest opening from the fantastically smart Alila gang,
is whats missing: noise. Stand on your balcony, 2,000 metres above sea level, overlooking a plunging precipice, and only a whisper
of a breeze disturbs the peace. It feels remote. And it is. A two-hour drive from the coast and the capital, Muscat, the nal 30km ascent
is a head-spinning ride of serpentine bends. This clutch of low-slung buildings, set on a lofty ridge and built from ophiolite rock,
merges seamlessly with its surroundings: lunar-like elevations with a crumpling topography and layers of strata in a subtly changing
palette of earthy colours. Inside, bedrooms are a restrained mix of minimalism and ethnic chic. There are monolithic marble baths,
Omani textiles, dark-wood beams and hand-painted juniper-branch motifs on the walls. Slip into the innity pool and gaze out over the
gorge as the sun sets, then sit down to a supper of lamb biryani and raita studded with pomegranate seeds, beneath a carpet of stars.
INSIDE TIP Jabal Akhdar means The Green Mountain in Arabic. Ask a guide to take you on a hike through one of the wadis,
such as nearby Bani Habib, where startling ashes of verdant life orchards of walnut, almond and apricot trees are hidden in
the foothills and irrigated by springs using special channels called falaj. AOIFE ORIORDAIN
Cox & Kings (+44 20 7873 5000; www.coxandkings.co.uk) offers four nights from 1,285, including ights, transfers and breakfast
hard rock hotel ibiza
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