Arizona Highways 1/15

JANUARY 2015
WEEKEND GETAWAYS
THE BEST OF FLAGSTAFF,

SEDONA AND BISBEE
We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world ... ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON
E SC A PE E X PLOR E E X PE R I E NCE
Where to EAT,
SLEEP & SPLURGE
MYSTERIOUS
LITTLE BIRDS
BY CHARLES
BOWDEN
PLUS: SOME HISTORY, SOME HIKES

AND SCENIC DRIVES, SOMETHING
FOR THE KIDS AND MORE!
Cathedral Rock,
Sedona
AND: TROOP 65 HELPS RESTORE INDIAN GARDEN SAGUARO NATIONAL PARK

HIKING HELLS HOLE CHUCK ABBOTT BEYOND LAKE POWELL SNOWY EGRETS
CONTENTS 01.15
2 EDITORS LETTER > 3 CONTRIBUTORS > 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR > 56 WHERE IS THIS?
5 THE JOURNAL
People, places and things from around the state, including a look
back at iconic photographer Chuck Abbott, ocotillos, snowy egrets
and a snapshot of Grand Canyon National Park.
16 WEEKEND GETAWAYS
Flagstaff, Sedona, Bisbee ... theres a lot to do in those three places,
and trying to t it all into one weekend can be tough. To make
things a little easier, we put together itineraries of where to eat,
sleep, hike and splurge. We also threw in some history, something
for the kids and more.
BY NOAH AUSTIN, ROBERT STIEVE & KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER
24 ITS IN THE DETAILS

For almost nine decades, weve been using photography to showcase the beauty of Arizona. Most of those images have been panoramic landscapes, but every once in a while, we like to send out a
photographer with a macro lens. Thus this collection.
A PORTFOLIO BY EIRINI PAJAK
32 THE GREAT BEYOND

Almost 3 million people a year visit Lake Powell. Its one of the
most popular attractions in the Southwest, but its not the only
sight worth seeing. Just beyond the lake are several natural
wonders, including the otherworldly Antelope Canyon.
TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY LADD
42 SCOUTING TRIP
For almost 50 years, a troop of Boy Scouts from suburban Chicago has been making regular trips to Arizona to hike the Grand
Canyon. In July, they were back, but instead of just hiking rimto-rim-to-rim, Troop 65 also delivered a check for $4,500.
BY ANNETTE M CGIVNEY
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN BURCHAM
46 MYSTERIOUS LITTLE BIRDS

Depending on the time of year, as many as 15 species of hummingbirds can be found in Arizona. They come in a rainbow of
colors, but beyond that, we dont know a lot about them. As
our writer writes: They hover right in front of our face, but we
hardly know their worlds.
AN ESSAY BY CHARLES BOWDEN
PHOTOGRAPHIC
AVAILABLE Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizona
2 J A N U A R Y 2PRINTS
013
Page
Grand Canyon
National Park
Flagstaff
Sedona
Prescott
Salome Wilderness
PHOENIX
Oracle
Tucson
Saguaro National
Park
Bisbee
POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE
GET MORE ONLINE

www.arizonahighways.com
Visit our website for details on weekend getaways,
hiking, lodging, dining, photography workshops,
slideshows and more. Plus, check out our blog for
regular posts on just about anything having to do
with travel in Arizona, including Q&As with writers
and photographers, special events, bonus photos,
sneak peeks at upcoming issues and more.
50 DELTA FORCE
For millions of years, water from the Colorado River owed
all the way to the Gulf of California. But not anymore. The
last 90 miles are dry, and thats where Francisco ZamoraArroyo is pouring his energy. As director of the Colorado
River Delta Legacy Program, hes ghting hard to bring the
river back.
BY NOAH AUSTIN
PHOTOGRAPH BY BILL HATCHER
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52 SCENIC DRIVE
Saguaro National Park East: Craggy peaks, sweeping vistas,
spectacular sunsets and saguaros are just some of what
youll see on this scenic drive, which loops through 8 miles of
rugged desert at an elevation of 3,000 feet.
54 HIKE OF THE MONTH

Hells Hole Trail: If your New Years resolution was to push
yourself to the extreme in 2015, this trail is a good place to
start. Its one of the states most challenging trails, but the
payoff is out of this world.
highwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191.
Z A sandstorm on the Navajo Nation cloaks Monument

Valley in a haze of dust. | TIM FITZHARRIS
CAMERA: PENTAX 645; FILM: FUJICHROME VELVIA; SHUTTER:
1/15 SEC; APERTURE: F/11; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 80 MM
FRONT COVER Sunrise illuminates Cathedral Rock, one of

Sedonas best-known sandstone formations. | MARK FRANK
CAMERA: CANON EOS 5D MARK II; SHUTTER: 1/5 SEC;
APERTURE: F/20; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 29 MM
BACK COVER A blue-throated hummingbird takes aim at

wildflowers in Portal. | BRUCE D. TAUBERT
CAMERA: CANON EOS-1D MARK IV; SHUTTER: 1/200 SEC;
APERTURE: F/18; ISO: 500; FOCAL LENGTH: 170 MM
w w w.arizonahighways.com
editors letter
I N
M E M O R I A M
CHARLES BOWDEN
1 9 4 5 2 0 1 4
JANUARY 2015
it, but for him, the exercise

went beyond vowels and consonants. He was meticulous about
his punctuation, too. Or the
lack thereof.
If youre familiar with
Chucks writing, you know that
he liked to write long sentences
without the burden of commas.
Although it kept our proofreaders up at night, the rule around
here was simple: No red marks
on Chucks copy. Only he had
that kind of immunity, and
now theres no one.
Chuck died on August 30, 2014. I was sitting in the sand,
staring at the Pacific, when I got the details from Molly, his loving partner. Surreal is one of the most overused words in our
language one thats rarely acquitted when on trial for its life
but the news about Chuck was surreal. Id just talked to him
a few days earlier. Hed pitched me an idea for the magazine,
and we discussed some new essays. It never occurred to me
that that would be it. No more vowels, no more consonants, no
more inspiration. I cant put into words what I was feeling, but
I remember thinking: Surreal is a word that should be reserved for
the unexpected death of Charles Bowden.
I also thought about the first time I met Chuck. It was more
than 20 years ago. My mentor, Dick Vonier, introduced us. Dick
and Chuck had been rabble-rousing journalists in Tucson the
Butch and Sundance of independent magazines. Dick was quiet,
and usually went unnoticed in a roomful of writers, but Chuck
was an alluring combination of Hunter S. Thompson, Edward
Abbey and Aldo Leopold. Writer, activist, teacher ... Chuck was
smart. He had a degree in American intellectual history from
the University of Wisconsin, and he had a lot to say. About
human rights, the environment and even hummingbirds.
Although I wanted more, its fitting that Chucks last words
for Arizona Highways were about his beloved hummingbirds.
He was in Patagonia, working on Mysterious Little Birds, when
he started getting sick. Just before he headed home to Molly in
New Mexico, he sent her an email: I feel better slept. I try
to comfort myself with thinking of the past.
He wasnt specific in his message to Molly, but I suspect one
of those memories was about a dog and a tree and a park a
place where hummingbirds would hover over his head at twilight. I hope all of his final memories were beautiful. Like the
beautiful words he wrote for all of us.
So long, Chuck. Say hello to Dick.
ROBERT STIEVE, EDITOR
MOLLY MOLLOY
HUMMINGBIR DS. Some are

as little as 2.29 inches long,
and none are bigger than
pocket-sized. Theyre among
the worlds smallest vertebrates, and yet, they played a
large role in the life of Charles
Bowden. There is nothing
in my day that matters to me
beyond birds, walking and
reading. Thats from a recent
entry in a journal Chuck called
Creek Log. He was fascinated
by birds hummingbirds in
particular and the seduction
goes back to his childhood.
As a boy, he wrote in an essay, Id walk the dog under a
tree in the corner of the park at twilight and hummingbirds
would hover just over my head. I knew nothing of their customs
or various nations then. But my boys eyes glimpsed an open
door as the night came down and the promise of what I could be
and learn if I left the everyday world and spun up into the sky.
The essay is titled Mysterious Little Birds, and its featured on
page 46. As writers, we all have access to the same set of vowels and consonants, but Chuck was the master of composition
hed string together words the way Mozart paired notes and
Monet combined colors.
The land rose, a river cut, the entrails of the earth came
into view, time beyond human comprehension loomed up like
a wall and the hand could rub and feel billions of years. Thats
from an essay about the Grand Canyon.
In another essay, one in which I was expecting an obituary
for a battered national monument, he wrote a beautiful piece
about hopefulness: I stand in the shade of an ironwood that
is likely older than my nation and I have the faith of a pupfish,
surviving century after century in a desert. Organ Pipe is open
for business and its business is to teach the power of life in a
very hot place. We made a deal with the ground and the bad
times cannot touch our dreams.
Of course, his mastery of the written word went beyond
the pages of Arizona Highways. He wrote more than two dozen
books and won a long list of writing awards. He was a finalist for
the Pulitzer Prize, and when the editors of Esquire selected the
70 best sentences in the history of their magazine, Chuck was in
the mix, along with Hemingway, Steinbeck and Fitzgerald.
As youd expect, its the quintessential sentence. I share it
with my students when I teach magazine writing at the Walter
Cronkite School of Journalism. I share it and tell them to write
as if every word were on trial for its life. Thats how Chuck did
contributors
VOL. 91, NO. 1
800-543-5432
www.arizonahighways.com
PUBLISHER Win Holden
EDITOR Robert Stieve
MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn Kramer
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin
EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel
PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney
ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney
DESIGN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Diana Benzel-Rice
MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi
WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow
RENEE ROUNDTREE
JANUARY 2015
GARY LADD
When Gary Ladd moved to Page from
Tucson in 1981, he didnt know about
Coyote Buttes, Horseshoe Bend or other
attractions near town. I had been into
Antelope Canyon a few times, he says,
but I had never run into other visitors. It
wasnt known to the world, either. Today,
Lake Powell visitation is exploding, in
large part because of the attractions that
were virtually unknown to the outside world when Ladd came to town. That inspired The
Great Beyond (see page 32), Ladds essay on all the other reasons to visit the Page area. Of
all those reasons, Ladd says Horseshoe Bend should be No. 1 on a visitors list: Its about a
20-minute hike on a very sandy trail to a sudden view that you cant prepare yourself for.
Try to be there at sunset. Its totally free no permits, no entry fees, no parking charges,
no hassle. Also, no railings at the overlook! Ladd is a longtime and frequent contributor to
Arizona Highways. Hes currently working on a Grand Canyon Association book about how
best to photograph the Canyon from its rims.
DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero

CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman
CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES
602-712-2019
SPONSORSHIP SALES
REPRESENTATION Kathleen Hennen
Hennen Publishing &

Marketing Group
480-664-0541
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
editor@arizonahighways.com
2039 W. Lewis Avenue
Phoenix, AZ 85009
GOVERNOR Doug Ducey

DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT
OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski
BRUCE D. TAUBERT
If I go too long without going outdoors and getting
dirty, life is not good, says photographer Bruce Taubert,
whose photos accompany Charles Bowdens essay on
hummingbirds (see Mysterious Little Birds, page 46).
Youve probably seen Tauberts photographs in just about
every issue of Arizona Highways in recent memory. His
specialty is nature photography, and he usually provides
the shots of plants and animals you see on page 13 of
our magazine. Taubert says he sees photography as a
mechanism to show our nations wildlife heritage to the
public. With hummingbirds, he says, the challenge comes not in photographing the bird but
in making the image beautiful: Backgrounds, ower placement, lighting and location are
critical to making a great hummingbird image. Tauberts images have been used in numerous
calendars, magazines, educational publications and advertisements for conservation groups.
G.E. M CKELVEY
FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen

INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY Cindy Bormanis
ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION
BOARD CHAIRMAN Stephen W. Christy
MEMBERS Joseph E. La Rue
William Cuthbertson
Deanna Beaver
Jack W. Sellers
Arizona Highways (ISSN 0004-1521) is published monthly by

the Arizona Department of Transportation. Subscription price:
$24 a year in the U.S., $44 outside the U.S. Single copy: $4.99 U.S.
Call 800-543-5432. Subscription correspondence and change of
address information: Arizona Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big Sandy,
TX 75755-8521. Periodical postage paid at Phoenix, AZ, and at
additional mailing office. CANADA POST INTERNATIONAL PUBLICATIONS MAIL PRODUCT (CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION) SALES
AGREEMENT NO. 41220511. SEND RETURNS TO QUAD/GRAPHICS, P.O. BOX 875, WINDSOR, ON N9A 6P2. POSTMASTER: Send
address changes to Arizona Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big Sandy, TX
75755-8521. Copyright 2015 by the Arizona Department of Transpor tation. Reproduc tion in whole or in part without permission is
prohibited. The magazine does not accept and is not responsible
for unsolicited materials.
PRODUCED IN THE USA
EIRINI PAJAK
Eirini Pajak studied photography in college but didnt keep up with it after she graduated. A
decade later, a monk at St. Anthonys Monastery in Florence, where Pajak often attends services, suggested she start photographing wildowers. He added, specically, not to overlook
even the tiniest owers, she says. That suggestion has shaped her photographic style: As youll
see in our portfolio (Its in the Details, page 24), Pajak has become a pro at capturing the small
things, partly through her use of a technique called focus-stacking. Im trying to give more
attention to beautiful wildowers
that I think are often overlooked,
she says. Ive seen so many amazing
images of poppies and lupines, but
there is a whole world of neglected
and often quite tiny owers that
are no less beautiful. This months
feature is Pajaks rst in Arizona
Highways. Her photos have also
appeared in Arizona Wildlife Views, a
publication of the Arizona Game and
Fish Department. NOAH AUSTIN
ALAN SPARKMAN
VICE CHAIRMAN Kelly O. Anderson
letters to the editor

editor@arizonahighways.com
LONG-DISTANCE RELATIONSHIP
A long time ago, precisely in 1984, during a holiday in
Arizona, I came across Arizona Highways for the first time, and
after reading it, I fell in love with it. Its one of the best magazines I have ever been subscribed with. I live in Italy, and when
my monthly copy arrives I feel very happy to spend my evening,
after work, going through its pages and being informed about
Arizona and enjoying the outstanding pictures.
Giovanni Salvi, Bergamo, Italy
December 2014
U.S. Postal Service

STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, AND CIRCULATION
Title of Publication: Arizona Highways
Publisher: Win Holden
Publication No.: ISSN 0004-1521
Editor: Robert Stieve
Date of Filing: September 22, 2014
Managing Editor: Kelly Kramer;
address below
Frequency of issues: Monthly
Complete mailing address
Number of issues
of known ofce of publication:
published annually: Twelve
2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix,
Annual subscription price:
(Maricopa) AZ 85009-2893
$24.00 U.S. one year
Owner: State of Arizona
206 S. 17th Ave.
Phoenix, AZ 85007
Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning or holding
1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securities: None
The purpose, function, and nonprofit status of this organization and the exempt
status for federal income tax purposes has not changed during preceding 12 months.
ISSUE DATE FOR CIRCULATION DATA BELOW:
Oct. 14
Nov. 13-Oct. 14
Actual no.
Average no.
copies of
copies each
single issue
issue during
published nearest
preceding
to ling date
12 months
EXTENT AND NATURE OF CIRCULATION
A. Total number copies printed
136,164
B. Paid circulation
1. Outside-county, mail subscriptions
110,752
2. In-county subscriptions
-3. Sales through dealers, carriers,
street vendors, counter sales and
other non-USPS paid distribution
10,804
4. Other classes mailed through the USPS
2,448
C. Total paid circulation
124,004
D. Free distribution by mail
1. Outside-county
174
2. In-county
-3. Other classes mailed through the USPS
-4. Free distribution outside the mail
3,081
E. Total free distribution
3,255
F. Total distribution
127,259
G. Copies not distributed
8,905
H. Total
136,164
I. Percent paid circulation
97.4%
J. Paid Electronic copies
1,638
K. Total paid print copies + paid electronic copies 125,642
L. Total print distribution + paid electronic copies 128,897
M. Percent paid circulation (print & electronic copies) 97.5%
I certify that the statements made by me are correct and complete.
Win Holden, Publisher
JANUARY 2015
136,087
111,288
-9,728
2,373
123,389
182
--2,789
2,971
126,360
9,728
136,088
97.6%
1,641
125,030
128,001
97.7%
Mountains are my favourite and mostvisited place in all of Arizona.

Brian Kozan, Melbourne, Australia
DRY HUMOR
I was terribly disappointed that in your
otherwise-fine article about Prep and Pastry
in Tucson [The Journal, October 2014], the
author chose to disparage the noble scone.
I think Prep and Pastry is a great place, and
I am particularly fond of the sweet-potato
hash. But scones are supposed to be a little
crispy on the outside, not too sweet and
with a relatively dry texture. Otherwise,
they are nothing but a flat muffin. Muffins
are fine in their place, and I can objectively
understand some people preferring them.
But, really, preferring Pop-Tarts? I am sure
there is a Christmas-fruitcake-defense
league, and I may have to start one for the
scone. Right down the street from Prep and
Pastry is Raging Sage, which almost always
has a line serving my favorite scones. I have
to admit that even my husband thinks that
the scones I like taste like cardboard I
prefer to think I have a more refined palate.
Marcia Jurgens, Green Valley, Arizona
MUSEUM QUALITY
My brother, who lives in LA, has given me
a subscription to your beautiful magazine.
I love its great articles and wonderful pictures. Here in the United Kingdom, we have
lovely local scenes, but nothing compares
with the expansive wonders of your beau-
tiful Arizona. This months issue [August

2014] contains an exceptionally beautiful
picture of lightning over Coal Mine Canyon,
and I wondered if I could purchase a copy
for my geology-museum wall.
Barry Taylor, Chesham, Buckinghamshire,
United Kingdom
Editors Note: Thanks for the kind words, Barry.
Some of our images are available at www.
arizonahighwaysprints.com. Check it out.
WAY-BACK MACHINES
Years ago, long before computers and
printers, in the days of linotype and
veloxes, I owned an advertising agency in
California. From time to time I was called
upon to produce comprehensive layouts
for clients sales brochures or annual
reports. I was familiar with Arizona
Highways and its excellence in photography. Many a time I made the trek to the
used-magazine shop, on the other side of
town, to pore through back issues of your
publication for [inspiration]. Today, out of
the kindness of a dear friend in Prescott,
I once again enjoy the excellence of your
magazine through a gift subscription.
David Free, Kaneohe, Hawaii
contact us
If you have thoughts or comments about anything in Arizona Highways, wed

love to hear from you. We can be reached at editor@
arizonahighways.com, or by mail at 2039 W. Lewis
Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009. For more information,
visit www.arizonahighways.com.
SUZANNE MATHIA
KEEPING UP DOWN UNDER

I dont know how many international
subscribers you have, but moving away
from Arizona five years ago would have
been near-impossible without having
Arizona Highways delivered to my door
in Australia. I absolutely loved Chikku
Baijus winning photo [Best Picture 2014,
September 2014]. The Superstition
THE JOURNAL 01.15

national parks centennial > history > photography > iconic photographers
dining > nature > lodging > things to do
Bear Hug
Black-bear cubs wrestle in the snow at
Bearizona, a drive-through wildlife park
in Williams. Black bears weigh less than
a pound at birth, but males can be more
than 500 pounds when fully grown.
Bearizona also features wolves, bison,
otters, raptors and other species.
For more information, call
928-635-2289
or visit www.
bearizona.com.
CAMERA: CANON
EOS-1D MARK III;
SHUTTER: 1/500 SEC;
APERTURE: F/4; ISO: 400;
FOCAL LENGTH: 200 MM
THE JOURNAL
Y E A R D E S I G N AT E D :
AREA:
W I L D E R N E S S AC R E AG E :
A N N UA L V I S I TAT I O N :
AV E R AG E E L E VAT I O N :
JANUARY 2015
1893 (forest reserve), 1908 (national monument), 1919 (national park)

1,904 square miles
None within park boundaries
4.6 million (2013)
7,000 feet (South Rim), 8,000 feet (North Rim)
national parks centennial
GRAND
CANYON
NATIONAL
PARK
Hopi House, 1914 | COURTESY OF GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK MUSEUM COLLECTION
efore President Theodore Roosevelt named the Grand

Canyon a national monument in 1908, he said: Leave it
as it is. The ages have been at work on it, and man can
only mar it. What you can do is to keep it for your children,
your childrens children, and for all who come after you, as one of
the great sights which every American should see.

But long before that signicant designation and its later
designation as a national park, the Canyon was home to some of
Arizonas native people. Archaeological evidence stick gurines,

ruins of dwellings and pottery shards indicates that huntergatherers traveled through the Canyon more than 10,000 years
ago. And the Ancestral Puebloan people lived in and around the
Canyon for several thousand years.
Much later, brave men such as Joseph Christmas Ives and John
Wesley Powell explored the mile-deep Canyon running the
ADAM SCHALLAU
Colorado River that cuts through it, hiking into its side canyons and
EDITORS NOTE: In August 2016,

the National Park Service will
celebrate its 100th anniversary.
Leading up to that milestone, well
be spotlighting some of Arizonas
wonderful national parks.
documenting what they found along the way. After them came
entrepreneurs such as the Verkamp family who opened a curio
shop on the South Rim in 1898 and the Kolb brothers, whose
photographic exploits in the Canyon are displayed at Kolb Studio,
a national historic landmark .
Today, Grand Canyon National Park plays host to more than
4.5 million visitors each year, proving that Mr. Roosevelt had a point.
KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER
928-638-7888; www.nps.gov/grca
history
The Earthquake of 1887?

No one knows how the rumor started, but according to
local experts, Bisbees famous earthquake did not cause the cracks
on Bucky ONeill Hill. Still, its a good story.
including two sharp shocks and lasting over 90 seconds, was succeeded at
frequent intervals by many lesser movements in the next three days. Hunt and
Douglas also recalled the destruction: In
this part of Arizona, solid house-walls, of
adobe or unburned brick, were cracked or
overturned, while huge rocks in the steep
mountain gorges rolled down, causing
much damage. The miners noted that the
fires that ignited shortly after the quake
led to rumors of volcanic eruptions.
Graeme, who has extensive knowledge

of the areas geology, says that while mining activity played a role in the formation
of the cracks, Mother Nature was the real
culprit.
You have these rooms that appear
above these ore bodies, and they collapsed, he says. [Those are] the original origins of the cracks in the hill. The
earthquake [being the cause] is just a
local rumor and myth. Its all made up.
KIRSTEN KRAKLIO
BISBEE MINING & HISTORICAL MUSEUM
THE JOURNAL
he next time you visit Bisbee,

take a look at the fissures on
Bucky ONeill Hill. If you ask
locals how the cracks (pictured)
came to be, you might get more than one
answer. Some say the cracks stem from
heavy mining in the area. Others say the
fissures were the result of an earthquake
that violently shook the old mining town
in 1887.
Ive heard it all my life, that myth,
says Doug Graeme, a geology buff and
manager of the Queen Mine Tour.
Although no one knows who started the
story about the quake, when you hear
the details of the magnitude-7.2 tremor
that shook the region, its clear why the
rumor stuck.
The epicenter of the May 3, 1887, earthquake was in Sonora, Mexico, but the
quake was felt in Bisbee, Globe, Phoenix,
Tucson, Yuma and as far away as Albuquerque, New Mexico. The event and its
aftermath led to panic among the locals.
Miners T. Sterry Hunt and James
Douglas were at a Bisbee copper-mining
camp at the time of the quake. The following year, the miners recounted their
experience for the Seismological Society
of Japan: A violent tremor of the Earth,
Bucky ONeill Hill, its cracks visible,
looms over Bisbee in the towns early days.
this
month
in history
Grand Canyon
National Monument
is established on
January 11, 1908.
Q Wyatt Earp dies
in Los Angeles on
January 13, 1929,
at age 81.
Q The rst
damaging earthquake known to
have its epicenter in
Arizona occurs on
January 25, 1906.
Q
JANUARY 2015
Tucson
police
detectives
capture
John
Dillinger
(pictured)
on January 25, 1934.
The famed felon is
apprehended after
a re breaks out
at Hotel Congress,
where he and his
gang are hiding out.
Q
The rst
newspaper in
Phoenix, the
Salt River Herald,
begins publishing on January
26, 1878.
Q On January 31,
1890, the Empire
Ranch begins driving 1,000 head of
cattle to California to
escape high freight
rates of $7 per head.
Q
ARIZONA HIGHWAYS
50 Years Ago
The January 1965

issue of Arizona
Highways paid homage to lms made in
Arizona, including The
Greatest Story Ever
Told. A scene from the
lm appeared on the
cover. Other features
included an article
and portfolio about
the Santa Catalina
Mountains.
photography
Jack Is Back
Photo Editor Jeff Kida and longtime
Arizona Highways contributor Jack
Dykinga discuss the photographers
recent lung transplant and how it
will impact his work.
JK: Four years ago, you were diagnosed
with idiopathic pulmonary brosis. Your
condition got critical last spring, and on
May 24, you had a double lung transplant
performed at St. Josephs Hospital and
Medical Center in Phoenix. Since then,
youve made a remarkable recovery. Do
you think this experience will affect your
shooting style?
JD: I dont think so, but I keep thinking of an
Ansel Adams quote. Im paraphrasing, but
Adams said its not so much about photographing a place; its about how you feel
when youre there. After my surgery, my
rst assignment was for Arizona Highways
at Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge
in Southern Arizona. I had mixed feelings:
I was elated and ecstatic to be out in the
eld again, but there was also a certain
myself, and I wasnt sure whether I could
photograph at the level I once had. I was
happy to nd that I was still able to do the
things I wanted.
JACK DYKINGA
amount of fear. I set a very high bar for
The setting sun illuminates the grasslands of Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge in Southern Arizona.
JK: What went into this months photodepth-of-eld sharpness from front to
graph (right) of Buenos Aires?
ing from surgery, I had a chance to research
JD: Im very comfortable using a 4x5 view
Nikons new D810, which has essentially
back. The D810 makes the manual focus-
camera, and when I started shooting more
the same 36-megapixel sensor as my
ing of this lens very easy with something
digital les a few years ago, I was able to
D800 but comes with some really slick
called live-view split-screen focus. Using
take advantage of perspective-correcting
new features. I used the D810 and a 24 mm
your cameras LCD screen, you are able
lenses. The shift and tilt movements built
tilt-shift lens to make this photo. This
to open two windows showing different
allowed me to tilt the lens without rotat-
areas in your frame. Because you have
ing the camera, which changed the plane
the ability to zoom, you can bring both the
That makes the 35 mm format behave
of focus in the frame. By doing this, you can
foreground and the background into focus,
more like a view camera. As I was recover-
select focus points near and far and carry
as I did here.
PHOTO
TIP
SNOW
PROBLEM
Believe it or not,
many of Arizonas
mountains have
snow on them this
time of year. Photo-
graphing snowdusted mountains

can be a challenge
because they often
contain areas of
deep shadow, along
with the bright
white of the snow.
Experiment with
your camera settings to nd a combination that allows
you to see detail
in the shadows
without blowing out
the snow.
To learn more about photography, visit www.arizonahighways.com/photography.
CLAIRE CURRAN
into these lenses allow you to exceed the

depth-of-eld restrictions of a normal lens.
ADDITIONAL
READING
Look for our book
Arizona Highways
Photography
Guide, available
at bookstores
and www.shop
arizonahighways.
com/books.
ARIZONA HIGHWAYS ARCHIVES
THE JOURNAL
iconic photographers
CHUCK ABBOTT
orn in a tiny Michigan lumber

town in 1894, Charles Chuck
Abbott turned to photography
during World War I. When he
was drafted into the Army in 1917, he
photographed the devastating effects of
war on the European landscape and sold
many of his images when he returned to
the United States.
After a stint in Florida as the proprietor of Abbotts Joint, a dance hall and
casino, Abbott moved to California,
where he was ultimately hired as a cowboy host at Nellie Coffmans Desert Inn
in Palm Springs. Breakfast trail rides,
campfire cookouts and Western songs
became Abbotts claim to fame so
10
JANUARY 2015
much so that the Tucson Sunshine Club

hired him away in 1939 to become the
Cowboy Photographer, snapping photos
of tourists, sending the photos to visitors
hometown papers and bringing attention
to the Southern Arizona city as a major
travel destination.
But not everyone was pleased with
Abbotts work. Esther Henderson, a local
photographer and chair of the citys photographers club, protested Abbotts hiring. Abbott tried to smooth things over
and convinced Henderson to meet him
for a drink. Within two months, Abbott
and Henderson were married.
The Abbotts remained in Tucson,
raised two sons and became regular
photography contributors to Arizona

Highways before retiring to Santa Cruz,
California, in the early 1960s. The photograph at right appeared in Arizona Highways January 1952 issue.
KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER
For more information about Chuck Abbott, visit the

University of California-Santa Cruzs online archive at
www.oac.cdlib.org.
Above: Chuck Abbott and Esther Henderson, longtime
residents of Tucson, were regular contributors to Arizona
Highways.
Right: This photo, which was made with a 5x7 Deardorff
camera and a Goerz Dogmar lens, was made by Chuck
Abbott in the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains. It
was originally intended as a promotional photo for the
city of Tucson.
CHUCK ABBOTT
11
dining
Oracle Inn Steakhouse
KARI AND ADRIAN DARIMONT DIDNT exactly

plan on going into the restaurant business when they bought the long-shuttered Oracle Inn in 2008.
oracle
The Tucson residents were
real-estate investors whose
family had bought the nearby 3C Ranch
years before and started snapping up
commercial buildings in Oracle with the
intention of leasing the properties.
My real-estate-investing rule is, never
fall in love with the property, Adrian
says. We didnt follow that rule in
Oracle. The couple became smitten with
the small community of ranchers, miners, artists and retirees on the northern
slopes of Mount Lemmon, so they moved
to the ranch. When the real-estate market tanked, the couple realized the old
steakhouse could become a viable family
enterprise. They put their son Justin in
charge of restaurant operations, while
another son, Nick, handled renovations
on the rambling, 13,000-square-foot
building.
With a hearty menu featuring prime
rib, smoked meat, steak and chili, the

Darimonts opened Oracle Inn Steakhouse on July 6, 2008. People were lined
up outside, Adrian recalls, and we did
550 dinners that night. The chef quit
after his shift. He was overwhelmed. But
weve been going strong ever since.
The Darimonts revived Oracles de
facto living room, dining hall and watering hole, a place where tourists rub
elbows with local sculptors while cowboys and miners swap stories with bikers, just as they did for generations.
The Oracle Inn was built in 1938 by
Boyd Wilson, the son of George Wilson, who owned the nearby Rancho
Linda Vista dude ranch. Crafted of
adobe blocks, the inn served steaks and
cocktails, and poured champagne for
Rancho Linda Vistas wealthy Eastern
guests. The Wilsons kept locals coming
by building a veritable sports complex,
including a roping arena, baseball diamond and golf course, around the restaurant. Subsequent owners added a second
story and an expansive sports bar. When
nearby mining operations ceased in the

late 1990s, the towns economy took a
dive. The Oracle Inn was closed for years.
The Darimonts renovations kept the
historic adobe core of the restaurant
intact, down to the main dining rooms
polished-copper fireplace hood. They
draped booths in vintage red-velvet curtains found at their ranch and adorned
walls with historic memorabilia that
recalls Buffalo Bill Codys and Tom
Mixs ties to the community.
They also displayed work by local
artists and updated the sports bar and
streetside patio.
The beef-centric menu has been
tweaked with the help of daughter-inlaw Stephanie Darimont, who serves as
manager, and includes salmon and pasta
dishes; another daughter-in-law, Corrie
Darimont, runs the propertys grocery
store. As a nod to Adrians German heritage, the restaurant hosts a monthly German weekend, when the menu expands
to include schnitzel and sauerbraten,
and German beers and wines dot the
bar menu. A signature dessert? Cinnamon-flecked bread
pudding, topped with caramel
sauce and ice cream.
Although the food is a draw,
the Darimonts have also put
together an ever-changing
events calendar, offering live
music, karaoke and stand-up
comedy. Lest things get too
lowbrow, there are also tango
lessons and philosophy-club
meetings.
Our idea was to create a destination steakhouse, Adrian
says, something for visitors as
well as locals. I think we did
just that. NORA BURBA TRULSSON
STEVEN MECKLER
THE JOURNAL
Like most great steakhouses, this one comes with a hearty menu
featuring prime rib, smoked meat, steak and chili. What sets it apart
is the rich history of the place, which dates back to the 30s.
12
JANUARY 2015
Oracle Inn Steakhouse is located at 305

E. American Avenue in Oracle. For more
information, call 520-896-3333 or visit
www.oracleinn.com.
nature
During breeding season,

the birds
upper bills
turn from
yellow to red.
Snowy
Egrets
nowy egrets in ight are striking
sights, their wing feathers spreading

like accordions. Cloaked in elegant
white plumes, the birds look as if
theyre dressed for a ball, their black legs like
Snowy
egrets have
a 3-foot
wingspan.
leggings down to their yellow feet. People

have adored snowy egrets for centuries, but
at one point, admiration turned to greed.
Beginning in the late 1800s, hunters
slaughtered hundreds of thousands of
snowy egrets each year for their distinctive breeding plumes, which were used for
womens hats. In 1886, the uffy feathers
sold for $32 per ounce, double the price of
gold, according to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology. Snowy egrets were hunted to the
verge of extinction until Congress protected
The birds use their

bright-yellow feet
to stir up prey.
them with the Migratory Bird Treaty Act

in 1918. Since then, their population has
bounced back and is no longer concerning
to conservationists.
BRUCE D. TAUBERT (2)
Snowy egrets thrive in aquatic, thickly

vegetated environments, such as estuaries, mangroves, marsh pools, swamps
and shallow bays. Many of the birds live in
South America year-round, but some breed
throughout the United States, mostly on
coasts. Come wintertime, those birds migrate to warmer climes Arizona, the
nature factoid
OCOTILLOS
Ocotillos can possess six to
100 spindly, spiky branches,
which are covered in a waxy
varnish to retain moisture.
These desert shrubs are
dormant until just after rain,
when leaves quickly regrow
and photosynthesize. Few
animals eat ocotillos, but in
Arizona, mule deer, whitetailed deer and bighorn
sheep occasionally snack
on them. Ocotillos can
grow 10 to 20 feet tall.
KAYLA FROST
Caribbean and South America. When its

time to breed, male snowy egrets select a
nest location and put on loud displays to
impress females. After they nd their mates,
the females usually build the nest. Males
and females take turns incubating eggs,
which typically are a pale greenish-blue.
On average, snowy egrets are 2 feet tall.
Males and females are roughly the same
size. They are lanky creatures, weighing only
about 13 ounces think four of your TSAapproved carry-on toiletries. They use their
skinny legs to chase prey through water and
their slender bills to peck for food. Snowy
egrets normally munch on sh, crustaceans,
frogs, snakes, lizards and insects.
KAYLA FROST
13
lodging
things to do
in
arizona
Gathering of the Gunfighters

January 10-11, Yuma
Relive the Wild West at Yuma Territorial Prison State Historic Park, where
visitors can watch re-enactment
groups in gunght and costume
competitions. Food, beverage and
Western-art vendors will be on hand.
Information: 928-328-8716 or www.
yumaprison.org
Balloon Festival
January 16-18,
Lake Havasu City
See dozens of colorful hot-air balloons
rise over Lake Havasu at this event,
which also includes antique and
classic cars, carnival rides, live
entertainment, kids activities and
more. Information: 928-486-7979 or
www.golakehavasu.com
THE JOURNAL
African Childrens Choir

January 18, Chandler
Singers ages 7 to 10 perform traditional
and contemporary songs at the Chandler Center for the Arts. This concert
tour raises awareness of the needs
of destitute and orphaned children in
Africa. Information: 480-782-2680 or
www.chandlercenter.org
Dillinger Days
MARK LIPCZYNSKI
January 23-24, Tucson
Casino Night
Grand Highland Hotel
January 30, Wickenburg
THE GRAND HOTEL ROSE from the ashes of the 1900 re that destroyed Whiskey Row
and much of Prescott. Built in 1903, its now seeing new life in the wake of a second re,
which destroyed three adjacent businesses in 2012 and left the second-story
prescott
The historic Hotel Congress commemorates the 80th anniversary of

gangster John Dillingers capture in
Tucson. Activities include whiskeytasting, re-enactments and live music.
Proceeds benet the Greater Tucson
Fire Foundation. Information: 800-7228848 or www.hotelcongress.com
hotel which then housed apartments severely damaged by smoke and

water. In the aftermath, second-generation owners Howard and Nancy Hinson
Spin the wheel, throw the dice and

join in the festivities at this Desert
Caballeros Western Museum event.
All proceeds benet the museum,
a leading exhibitor of Western art.
westernmuseum.org
wondered how to move forward. Slowly, the idea of a hotel took shape. The Hinsons peeled
Photo Workshop
back damaged lath and plaster, exposing brick. They removed ceilings and ductwork,
April 23-27, Grand Canyon
restoring 10-foot ceilings. Carpet and linoleum gave way to original alder oors. The hotel
Hike down the South Kaibab Trail and

spend two nights at Phantom Ranch in
this workshop led by Arizona Highways
contributor Suzanne Mathia. While the
hiking will be strenuous, the views of
the Grand Canyon will be unparalleled.
ahpw.org
reopened in 2013 as the boutique Grand Highland Hotel, each of its 12 guest rooms decorated to reect some aspect of Prescotts history. Since then, you might say the place has
taken off like a house on re.
KATHY MONTGOMERY
The Grand Highland Hotel is located at 154 S. Montezuma Street in Prescott.

For more information, call 928-776-9963 or visit www.grandhighlandhotel.com.
14
JANUARY 2015
For more events, visit www.arizonahighways.com/events.
In 1904, photography
pioneers Emery and
Ellsworth Kolb built their
studio and home on the edge
of the Grand Canyons South
Rim. The landmark became
as much a part of history as
their groundbreaking works
of art. We need your help to
keep the history alive.
Weekend Getaways
Flagstaff, Sedona, Bisbee ... theres a lot to do in those three places,
and trying to t it all into one weekend can be tough. To make things a little
easier, we put together itineraries of where to eat, sleep, hike and splurge.
We also threw in some history, something for the kids and more.
By Noah Austin, Robert Stieve & Kelly Vaughn Kramer
16
JANUARY 2015
The snow-cloaked San Francisco

Peaks loom over a wintry landscape
near Flagstaff. | TOM BROWNOLD
17
WEEKEND
GETAWAYS
Flagstaff
EAT
Brix
Our menu changes seasonally to ensure that we serve only
the freshest ingredients from
our local and regional network
of friends. Thats the philosophy at Brix, which is located in
the historic Carriage House in
downtown Flagstaff. Among
others, its network includes
Hayden Mills in Tempe, Ridgeview
Farms in Paulden and Black Mesa
Ranch in Snowake. Through
those sources, Brix is able to put
together a dinner menu that
features selections such as chileroasted duck breast, a variety of
artisan cheeses and a wine list
that rivals the best restaurants in
Scottsdale. || 413 N. San Francisco
Street, 928-213-1021, www.
brixagstaff.com
ally through an open grove of

ponderosas, past the Kachina
Trail and into the Kachina Peaks
Wilderness. Just past the wilderness boundary, it skirts the ridge
of a shaded canyon. The trees are
a kaleidoscope of greens in spring
and summer. Moving on, the
trail becomes a series of gradual
switchbacks, and the vegetation
changes from ponderosas and
aspens to alpine species, including corkbark rs and Engelmann
spruce. Eventually, it arrives at a
point where the forest opens up
and views of the peaks steal the
show. From there, its a quick hop
to the top of Doyle Saddle, the
turnaround point for this hike.
|| Flagstaff Ranger District, 928526-0866, www.fs.usda.gov/
coconino
downtown, the Riordan Mansion

is actually two homes connected
by a rendezvous room. It was
built in 1904 for Timothy and
Michael Riordan, two brothers
who owned the Arizona Lumber
and Timber Co. They were
partners in just about every
way they even married a set of
sisters. Today, the 13,000-squarefoot home is a state park, which
gives a detailed look at the lives
of the rich and famous in the
early 1900s. Designed by Charles
Whittlesey, who also engineered
the Grand Canyons El Tovar, the
home combines a rustic exterior
(gnarly logs and native stone)
with a rich interior (Tiffany stained
glass and a 1904 Steinway). || 409
W. Riordan Road, 928-779-4395,
www.azstateparks.com
DRIVE
KIDS
HIKE
Volcanoes & Ruins Loop
Lowell Observatory
Weatherford Trail
History, geology, archaeology ...

thats just some of what youll
learn on this 73-mile (from
Flagstaff) scenic loop, which gets
especially scenic near Bonito Park
Campground, in the shadow of
Sunset Crater. Heading north from
the prominent landmark, the road
drops from a landscape of trees
and lava to the desert grasslands
of Wupatki National Monument,
where youll eventually arrive at
the abandoned ruins of the Sinaguan people. From the ruins, the
rest of the loop winds for about
10 miles back to U.S. Route 89,
and then south back to Flagstaff.
|| Sunset Crater Volcano National
Monument, 928-526-0502, www.
nps.gov/sucr; Wupatki National
Monument, 928-679-2365, www.
nps.gov/wupa
Of all the things Flagstaff is

famous for, the brightest star
might be the Lowell Observatory,
from which Pluto was discovered.
Established in 1894 by Percival
Lowell, the observatory sits about
300 feet above the city. Lowell,
who moved west from New England, was obsessed with the nal
frontier. More than anything, he
wanted to prove there were little
green men on Mars, and Northern
Arizona, with its high altitude
and cloudless skies, seemed like
the place to do it Flagstaff was
designated the worlds rst International Dark Sky City. To walk in
his footsteps, kid-friendly tours
are offered daily. || 1400 W. Mars
Hill Road, 928-774-3358, www.
lowell.edu
This easy-to-follow route

(14.8 miles round-trip) begins at
Schultz Tank and climbs gradu-
HISTORY
Riordan Mansion
Walnut Canyon
National Monument
For a taste of local Flagstaff

history, head to the Riordan
Mansion. Pronounced Rear-din
and located a mile or so from
Cliff dwellings are scattered

throughout the Southwest, but
few are more accessible than
those in Walnut Canyon National
ATTRACTION
Walnut Canyon is home to

some of the Southwests most
accessible cliff dwellings. | TOM BEAN
18
JANUARY 2015
Monument. The Island Trail, a

1-mile loop that starts at the
visitors center, takes hikers past
25 of these prehistoric rooms.
The trail is steep, dropping nearly
200 feet, and coming out requires
a hike up 240 steps. Small by
modern standards, the rooms
average about 80 square feet
enough space to sleep and store
valuables. Homes were simple
and systematic. After visiting the
ruins in the early 1900s, novelist Willa Cather wrote: All the
houses in the canyon were clean
with the cleanness of sun-baked,
wind-swept places, and they all
smelled of the tough little cedars
that twisted themselves into the
very doorways. || 3 Walnut Canyon Road, 928-526-3367, www.
nps.gov/waca
PHOTO OP
SPLURGE
Cherry Pie
at Miz Zips
For this listing, we singled out
cherry pie, but any of the pies at
Miz Zips lemon, blackberry,
coconut, blueberry, apple,
rhubarb, pumpkin qualify as
comfort food. The delicate, aky
crust is a big part of that, but so
is the ambience of the restaurant. Like all classic diners along
Historic Route 66, this one comes
with comfy booths and nostalgia
of all sorts on the walls. The best
part, though, is the green-marble,
horseshoe-shaped counter. Not
much has changed since Miz Zips
opened in 1952, and thats a good
thing. Especially if youre willing
to forget about calories for a few
minutes and splurge on some-
thing delicious. || 2924 E. Historic

Route 66, 928-526-0104
SLEEP
for travelers with a penchant for

history and literature. || 23 N.
Leroux Street, 928-779-1919,
www.weatherfordhotel.com
Weatherford Hotel
The Weatherford was a favorite
of Western novelist Zane Grey
so much so that in 1997, hotel proprietors opened a ballroom in his
honor. In one of his most famous
novels, Call of the Canyon, Grey
mentioned a hotel replace that
hadnt been used or even seen in
decades. Because of the book, it
was rediscovered behind partitions in the hotels restaurant. A
pet project of John Weatherford,
a developer who also oversaw the
construction of the towns New
Weatherford Opera House now
the Orpheum the hotel opened
in 1900. Today, its a favorite stop
BONUS
Buffalo Park
There are many great hikes in the
mountains around Flagstaff, but
they take time. For a quick dose
of fresh air, head to Buffalo Park,
which sits atop McMillan Mesa in
the shadow of the San Francisco
Peaks. The main attraction of
the park is an easy 2-mile loop
that circles a grassy meadow. The
trail itself is wide and wheelchair
accessible. Before it became a city
park, the area was a private wildlife park. Thus the name. || 2400
N. Gemini Road, 800-379-0065,
www.agstaffarizona.org
San Francisco
Peaks
The mountain range
that looms over
Flagstaff includes
Humphreys Peak,
the highest point in
Arizona, and its also
home to the states
only tundra region.
Depending on the
season, your photo
might include wildowers, storm clouds
or even a rainbow.
| SHANE MCDERMOTT
19
WEEKEND
GETAWAYS
Sedona
EAT
Elote Caf
When it comes to Mexican food,
chef Jeff Smedstad knows whats
what. After traveling across
Mexico, eating in local markets
and culling authentic ingredients
and garnering mucho respect
for his efforts at Los Sombreros
in Scottsdale he opened Elote
Caf in 2008. Since then, its been
Sedonas go-to place for tortillas,
tamales and, of course, elote. The
re-roasted corn, inspired by the
cobs peddled by Mexican street
vendors, comes served with spicy
mayo, lime and cotija cheese.
And, its a primo antecedent to
a spate of other authentic menu
items, from carne asada to lamb
adobo. || 771 State Route 179, 928203-0105, www.elotecafe.com
HIKE
Woods Canyon Trail
This easy-to-follow, 8-mileround-trip trail begins just off
State Route 179, but within
minutes, it enters the Munds
Mountain Wilderness. There, the

sounds of the city disappear and
youll catch your rst glimpse of
Sedonas famed red rocks. Unlike
some of the more famous trails to
the north, this one isnt dominated by the picturesque geology
that epitomizes Sedona. Instead,
its highlight is a beautiful riparian
area and plenty of solitude. The
trail is most spectacular where it
meets the intersection of Rattlesnake and Woods canyons and
drops into the boulder-strewn
wash of Dry Beaver Creek. || Red
Rock Ranger District, 928-2824119, www.fs.usda.gov/coconino
DRIVE
office. Thats how Sedona was

born. Today, the 13-mile Schnebly
Hill Road remains about as rugged as it originally was, and it
climbs through red-rock canyons
to its intersection with Interstate
17, traversing some of the areas
most beautiful scenery. The main
attraction of the drive is Schnebly
Hill Vista. At an elevation of
6,000 feet, it overlooks Steamboat Rock, Oak Creek, Mingus
Mountain, the Verde Valley and,
of course, the town of Sedona,
which has grown by leaps and
bounds since Schnebly petitioned
for that post office. || Red Rock
Ranger District, 928-282-4119,
www.fs.usda.gov/coconino
Schnebly Hill Road

When Carl Schnebly arrived in
Oak Creek in 1900, he used what
was then known as Munds Road
a former wagon route to
transport lumber from Flagstaff.
Then, he used the lumber to build
a home, used the road once again
to ferry produce to his general
store, and petitioned for a post
ATTRACTION
Chapel of the Holy Cross
The Chapel of the Holy Cross
has been one of Sedonas most
beloved landmarks since 1956. The
concrete-and-glass structure is
dominated by a 90-foot cross and
was conceptualized by sculptor
Marguerite Brunswig Staude, who,
after years of land-purchasing and
permit acquisitions, nally hired
San Francisco architects Anshen &
Allen to design the Catholic chapel.
Today, people of all denominations and from around the globe
visit the chapel, which is operated
by the Roman Catholic Diocese
of Phoenix. || 780 Chapel Road,
928-282-4069, www.chapelofthe
holycross.com
KIDS
Rainbow Trout Farm
Snow blankets the landscape of Oak Creek, a popular hiking

destination just north of Sedona. | MARK FRANK
20
JANUARY 2015
Kids and shin go together like

mac and cheese, and at Sedonas
Rainbow Trout Farm, little ones
can hook a trout or 10. Tucked
along Oak Creek and promising
entertainment for the entire
family, the farm also offers shing
equipment, bait, picnic tables
and grill kits lemon, butter, salt,
pepper and utensils. Theres no
catch-and-release policy here.
Instead, youll pay a $1 admission fee, and youll pay (by total
length) for each trout you catch.
The farm encourages you to pack
in additional food to create a fulledged meal. Mac and cheese
optional. || 3500 State Route
89A, 928-282-5799, www.sedona
rainbowtroutfarm.com
HISTORY
Palatki Heritage Site
In the Hopi language, Palatki
translates to Red House. And
even though the Hopis have no
specic ties to the ruins, Palatki
and its sister site, Honanki, were
the largest Sinaguan cliff dwellings in the area between A.D. 1100
and A.D. 1300. In other words,
ages ago. Today, the ruins are
accessible via three trails: one
that takes you up to the dwellings, one that climbs to a view
of the dwellings and another
that leads to alcoves that shelter
pictographs made by the native
people who occupied the Verde
Valley. Groups of up to 10 people
are allowed access to the dwellings in 20-minute intervals, and
reservations are recommended.
Otherwise, you may have to
wait ages for access. || Red Rock
Ranger District, 928-282-3854
(reservations), www.fs.usda.gov/
coconino
SPLURGE
Omelets at Coffee
Pot Restaurant
There are 101 omelets on the
menu at Coffee Pot Restaurant.
One hundred. And one. Some
of them might sound a little
strange take the jelly, peanut
butter and banana option, for
example but if youre looking to
pack in some protein before you
dart around town, the Coffee Pot
is your best bet. Since the 1950s,
the family owned restaurant has
been a favorite among locals,
whove dubbed it the best over-
all bargain in Sedona and the

best breakfast in Sedona.
|| 2050 State Route 89A, 928-2826626, www.coffeepotsedona.com
SLEEP
Garlands Oak Creek Lodge
With the possible exception of
El Tovar, which has the unfair
advantage of being perched on
the edge of the worlds Seventh
Natural Wonder, Garlands Oak
Creek Lodge is arguably the most
scenic place to spend a night in
Arizona. Lodge, hotel, B&B, campsite good luck nding accommodations with a better view.
Located in the heart of Oak Creek
Canyon, about 8 miles north of
Sedona, Garlands is surrounded
by millions of years of red-rock
geology, towering pines and
hearty oaks. Among other things,
the large cabins at the lodge
come with wood-burning replaces, and the small creekside
cabins feature porches overlooking Oak Creek. Other than maybe
a room perched on the edge of
the Grand Canyon, it doesnt get
any better than this. || 8067 State
Route 89A, 928-282-3343, www.
garlandslodge.com
BONUS
Sedona Bike & Bean
Weekend adventurers are known
for their dine-and-dash mentality
not in the juvenile-thievery connotation of the phrase, but in the
grab-a-bite-and-get-on-the-road
sense of it. Thats what makes
Sedona Bike & Bean so great.
There, you can rent a mountain
bike for cruising Sedonas countless trails and grab a latte for
the road at the stores nine-seat
coffee counter. Many bike tours,
including some that explore the
trails near Bell Rock just outside
the Bike & Beans windows
depart from the shop. || 75 Bell
Rock Plaza, 928-284-0210, www.
bike-bean.com
PHOTO OP
Red Rock Country
Sedonas sandstone formations are among the most
photographed rocks in the world, and they contrast
nicely with the surrounding green foliage. For the best
photos, have your camera ready around sunrise or
sunset. | GUY SCHMICKLE
21
WEEKEND
GETAWAYS
Bisbee
EAT
Caf Roka
The historic Costello Building
opened in 1907, and thanks to its
pressure-red bricks, it withstood
a 1908 re that leveled much of
Bisbee. Since 1993, its housed
Caf Roka, which serves up chefowner Rod Kass unique takes on
modern American cuisine. Rokas
menu changes often, but regulars
favorites include lamb meatballs,
lobster ravioli and roasted duck.
If youre looking for something
really unique, try Kass lasagna, which includes portobello
mushrooms and artichokes. || 35
Main Street, 520-432-5153, www.
caferoka.com
HIKE
San Pedro Riparian
National Conservation Area
Bird watchers ock to this 57,000acre preserve, which features a
network of short, easy trails, including one that parallels the San
Pedro River. Its been designated
a Globally Important Bird Area,
and the Bureau of Land Management has documented more than
370 avian species there, including
green kingshers, Lucys warblers
and yellow-billed cuckoos.
|| Friends of the San Pedro River,
www.sanpedroriver.org; Bureau
of Land Management, 520-4396400, www.blm.gov/az
DRIVE
Geronimo Trail
Once a major migration corridor
for Apache Indians and Spanish
explorers, this route extends
80 miles from Douglas, Arizona,
to Animas, New Mexico. Today, it
offers scenery and solitude along
the U.S.-Mexico border. History
buffs will want to stop at the
San Bernardino National Historic
Landmark, home to a ranch that

dates to the 1840s. And if youre
a fan of scenic landscapes, there
are plenty along this route,
including views of the Peloncillo
Mountains. || Douglas Ranger
District, 520-364-3468, www.
fs.usda.gov/coronado
ATTRACTION
Mining & Historical Museum
Bisbee started out as a coppermining town, and this Smithsonian-affiliated museum celebrates
that heritage with Digging In,
an award-winning exhibit that
explores how copper-mining
contributed to the electrication of America in the late 1800s.
Youll also nd a research library
that includes 100 years of local
newspapers on microlm and
7,000 historical photographs.
|| 5 Copper Queen Plaza, 520-4327071, www.bisbeemuseum.org
KIDS
Queen Mine Tour
Coronado National Memorials Montezuma Pass offers a view

south into Mexico. | GEORGE H.H. HUEY
22
JANUARY 2015
Theres no pickax experience

necessary on this tour, which
takes visitors on a train ride
1,500 feet into one of Bisbees
most famous copper mines. The
mine shut down in the 1970s, but
since then, more than a million people have taken the trip
underground. The tour guides are
retired miners who share their
own stories about the dangers
and drama of mining. And even
in summer, youll want to take a
sweater: The temperature in the
mine is a constant 47 degrees.
|| 478 N. Dart Road, 866-432-2071,
www.queenminetour.com
Seven Cities of Cibola. Attractions

include 600-foot-long Coronado
Cave, which features numerous
limestone formations, and a scenic overlook at Montezuma Pass.
|| Coronado National Memorial,
520-366-5515, www.nps.gov/coro
HISTORY
SPLURGE
Coronado National Memorial
Ice Cream at
Bisbee Coffee Co.
Located along the U.S.-Mexico

border, this memorial honors
Francisco Vzquez de Coronado, who explored much of the
Southwest in the 1540s while
he searched for the mythical
You might be a little chilly if you

just came out of the Queen Mine,
but once youve warmed up with
a triple latte at Bisbee Coffee Co.,
how about something sweet?
PHOTO OP
The coffee shop usually has
eight ice-cream avors (including non-dairy options) available,
along with milkshakes, fudge and
other sweet treats. || 2 Copper
Queen Plaza, 520-432-7931, www.
bisbeecoffee.com
SLEEP
It later reopened, and today it

rents out seven newly renovated
rooms. In 2004, Bisbee artist Rose
Johnson painted a mural on the
side of the motel; its based on
a 1928 poem by Federico Garca
Lorca. || 317 Tombstone Canyon
Road, 866-432-7371, www.
thejonquil.com
Jonquil Motel
A jonquil is a type of ower, but
the Jonquil got its name from its
founder, John Quill. He built the
motel in the 1930s, and he and his
family ran it until Bisbees copper
mines shut down in the 1970s.
BONUS
Copper Queen Hotel
Bisbee is famous for its alleged
ghostly residents, and three of
them purportedly reside at the
Copper Queen. The most famous
is a 30-something woman named

Julia Lowell. The story goes that
Lowell was a prostitute who used
the hotel to rendezvous with
clients. She fell in love with one
of them, but when he didnt fall
for her, she took her own life.
Today, the Julia Lowell Room at
the hotel is named in Lowells
honor, and male employees and
guests have reported hearing a
feminine whisper and seeing a
woman dancing at the foot of
the stairs. || 11 Howell Avenue,
520-432-2216, www.copper
queen.com
Chihuahua Hill
Known locally as
B Mountain (for
obvious reasons),
this 5,900-foot peak
overlooks Bisbee and
offers great views of
the town. A short,
easy trail to the top
begins at the end of
OK Street in downtown Bisbee.
| JILL RICHARDS
23
Hopi tea greenthread

sprouts at Las
Cienegas National
Conservation Area
southeast of Tucson.
ITS IN THE DETAILS
For almost nine decades, weve been using photography to showcase

the beauty of Arizona. Most of those images have been panoramic
landscapes, but every once in a while, we like to send out a
photographer with a macro lens. Thus this collection.
A PORTFOLIO BY EIRINI PA JAK
25
PHOTO EDITORS NOTE: Most of the images in this portfolio

feature a photographic technique known as focus-stacking.
Photographer Eirini Pajak shoots with the lens almost wide open,
then manually focuses through the plane of the ower one millimeter at a time. She then stacks the images using a computer
program. Doing so allows her to control the depth of eld in the
background and get focus through the subject.
A Mormon tea ower blooms in

Florence. Mormon pioneers,
along with Native Americans,
used a beverage brewed from
the plant for medicinal purposes
hence the name.
26
JANUARY 2015
Kaibab pussytoes huddle

together in Flagsta. The plant
is found exclusively in the Four
Corners states of Arizona, New
Mexico, Colorado and Utah.
27
LEFT: A jojoba plant reaches

toward the sun in Florence.
Jojoba oil is known for its healing and restorative properties.
ABOVE: Droplets hang from

blades of dry grass after a rainstorm in Florence.
29
Three San Felipe

dogweed blossoms show
various stages of their
life cycle in Florence. The
species is known for its
strong, unpleasant odor.
ABOVE:
LEFT: Paloverde leaves

add color to a cactus
skeleton in Florence.
31
HORSESHOE
BEND:
This Colorado River
meander is known for
its blue-green water and
the colorful sandstone
buttes that surround it.
The overlook where
this photo was made
is 1,100 feet above the
river, and its accessible
via a 1.5-mile (roundtrip) hike that begins a
few miles south of Page
on U.S. Route 89.
32
JANUARY 2015
T H E G R E AT BE Y ON D
Almost 3 million people a year
visit Lake Powell. Its one of the
most popular attractions in the
Southwest, but its not the only
sight worth seeing. Just beyond
the lake are several natural
wonders, including Horseshoe
Bend, Buckskin Gulch and the
otherworldly Antelope Canyon.
TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY LADD
33
G L E N C A N Y O N B E L O W T H E D A M : A few miles upstream from Lees Ferry, redbud trees bloom in the canyon bed. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is home to several
extremely rare plant species, including the Copper Canyon milkvetch and the kachina daisy.
It was a March morning in 1963 when the canyons of the

Colorado River were transformed. It was then that Glen Canyon Dam took control of the rivers flow and gave birth to Lake
Powell a few miles upstream from Grand Canyon.
The upstart lakes Monument Valley-like setting and maze of
twisting channels and spacious bays were expected to take center stage in the regions future economic and recreational life.
But now, looking back 52 years, that expectation may have
been too simplistic. Not because of what has or hasnt happened at the lake, but because of the astonishing array of natural wonders that have been discovered and recognized in the
surrounding region.
In 1963, Lees Ferry, Arizona, at the southern end of what
34
JANUARY 2015
would become Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, was a

half-forgotten back eddy. Navajo Bridge, 5 miles downstream,
had siphoned off the ferrys automobile traffic in the late 1920s,
and Glen Canyon Dam had nixed all Glen Canyon river trips.
Grand Canyon river-running, however, was on the brink
of an explosion, and Lees Ferry was and is the most viable
launching point. Although only 100 people had run the Colorado River through Grand Canyon in all of history as of about
1950, the numbers grew quickly, and by 1972, more than 15,000
river runners were shoving off every year. And the numbers
continued to rise.
A similar story unfolded at Antelope Canyon, just beyond
the city limits of Page, which was founded to support the con-
PA R I A
P L AT E A U :
The landscape at
Vermilion Cliffs
National Monument
includes pockets of
brain rock
weathered gray
sandstone named
for its cerebral
appearance.
35
COLORADO
RIVER:
Four miles upstream
from Lees Ferry, a
blooming tamarisk
leans out over the
tranquil river. The
jagged Echo Peak
looms in the distance.
36
JANUARY 2015
S L I C K - R O C K W I L D E R N E S S : Erosion has
sculpted this intricate formation from a sandstone ridge.
struction of the dam. As the dam was rising from the riverbed,
Antelope Canyon was known to local residents as The Corkscrew and the Skinny Caves, perfect settings for picnics and
spooky adventures into the heart of Jurassic bedrock.
The outside world eventually caught wind of the canyons
beauty in the mid-1980s. Today, Antelope Canyon is a Navajo
tribal park hosting thousands of visitors per day.
Many other slot canyons hide below the surface nearby.
Theres another doozy about 25 miles west of Page in the heart
of what has become Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. Its
called Buckskin Gulch, a legendary slot-canyon corridor in
todays hiking world. But back in 1963, it was known to ranchers as The Dive, a deadly trap for cows desperate for water.
Buckskin Gulch sneaks along the edge of Coyote Buttes, an
area celebrated for its swirling sandstone shapes and surreal
colors, and a terrain so implausibly fanciful that it seems more
illusion than landscape.
The world-famous Wave resides in Coyote Buttes, and it
[Continued on page 41]
alone is a powerful hiker temptation.
37
B U C K S K I N G U L C H : Late-afternoon sun casts intricate shadows on the walls of

this narrow slot canyon at Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. The canyon has become
a premier destination for slot-canyon hikers.
38
JANUARY 2015
L E E S F E R R Y: Buckwheat blooms beneath Cathedral Rock, a formation near Navajo

Bridge. The Vermilion Cliffs glow with morning light in the background.
39
COLORADO
RIVER:
Rocks surround dry
grass at the Paria Rife
near Lees Ferry. A
rife is a part of a river
or stream where the
water is shallower and
more turbulent than
elsewhere on the
waterway.
40
JANUARY 2015
C O Y O T E B U T T E S : Alternating layers of red and tan sandstone catch the lateafternoon light at Coyote Buttes South, part of Vermilion Cliffs National Monument.
[Continued from page 37] The entire Coyote Buttes area, however,
is remarkable. It is, in fact, a place where the photographic possibilities are numerous enough to induce a kind of pictorial vertigo. Images of Coyote Buttes now routinely appear in fine-art
galleries, geology textbooks, advertisements, outdoor magazines and calendars worldwide.
Just north and east of Vermilion Cliffs National Monument
is Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which was
designated a park in 1996. Although its not as well known as
some other reserves, it features the magnificent Escalante Canyon complex, arches, hoodoos and endless high plateaus, all of
which spurred the parks creation.
Only later was it realized that the monuments interior concealed an astonishing hoard of paleontological assets: bones
and trackways from the age of dinosaurs. A Bureau of Land
Management visitors center in Big Water, Utah, a few miles
west of Page, focuses on the parks paleontological wonders.
And then theres Horseshoe Bend. It didnt begin to attract

attention until the late 1980s, even though Evel Knievel considered it as a possible location for a daredevil motorcycle jump
20 years before.
The drop to the Colorado River at Horseshoe Bend measures
1,100 feet, twice the height of the Washington Monument,
more than enough to make most visitors shrink from the edge
after a brief peek at the green river below their toes.
Routes and roads to the Wahweap Hoodoos, the Tropic
Shale badlands, helicopter shuttles to the top of Tower Butte
and half-day river trips that begin at the base of the dam
add still more to the areas ensemble of geologic wonders.
Its enough to make you forget about ... what was the name
of that lake?
For more information, call the Page-Lake Powell Chamber of Commerce at 928-6452741 or visit www.pagechamber.com.
41
For almost 50 years, a troop of Boy Scouts from

suburban Chicago has been making regular trips to
Arizona to hike the Grand Canyon. In July, they were back,
but instead of just hiking rim-to-rim-to-rim,
Troop 65 also delivered a check for $4,500.
BY ANNETTE McGIVNEY PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN BURCHAM
HE ANTICIPATION was almost unbearable. One
morning last July, as a light drizzle fell on Mather
Campground at the Grand Canyons South Rim, Boy
Scouts of America Troop 65 from Wood Dale, Illinois,
was doing last-minute preparations for an epic rim-torim-to-rim hike. The day before, the boys had been blindfolded and
ushered to the edge of the South Rim, where, once the blindfolds
were removed, they laid eyes on the Grand Canyon for the rst time.
It was astounding, said one of the Scouts as he watched adults
divvy up ramen, dried fruit and cheese crackers into backpacks.
Now that were nally going into the Grand Canyon, Im nervous
and kind of scared.
Composed of 12 boys, ages 13 to 16, and 10 adults, the group had
been preparing for nine months for the 50-mile trans-Canyon hike.
During 300 miles of training, they shouldered heavy backpacks
42
JANUARY 2015
Andrew Welmers, a Boy

Scout from Troop 65
in Wood Dale, Illinois,
prepares to remove his
blindfold and get his rst
in-person look at the Grand
Canyon. The Scouts in
the troop trained for nine
months for their
rim-to-rim-to-rim hike.
43
The troops initial goal was to raise $1,000 for the project, but by the time the Scouts
reached the Grand Canyon in late July, people back home had pledged $4,500.
44
JANUARY 2015
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:
Peter Wedemann (left) and Sam Nearing lead Troop 65

Boy Scouts toward the Grand Canyons South Rim to get
their rst glimpse at the Seventh Natural Wonder.
Jeff Jakalski guides a blindfolded Nick Mercado to the
rim for his rst look at the Canyon.
Two Scouts identify Canyon formations they previously
saw only in photographs.
while slogging across sand dunes around Lake Michigan. And when a long winter drove them indoors, they
hiked in a gym. Now they were about to do the real
thing: hike down the South Rim, up the North Rim,
down the North Rim and back up the South Rim.
Our total elevation gain and loss on this hike will
be greater than climbing Mount Everest, said Troop
65 Scoutmaster Rich Zollner. But Im constantly
reminding the boys that this is not a race its an
adventure.
For most Scout troops, a Grand Canyon rim-to-rimto-rim hike is ambitious enough. But Troop 65 set the
bar even higher. We didnt just want to take from the
Canyon, said Zollner. Part of what were doing with
this trip is giving back, and also, hopefully, improving
the reputation of Scouts in the park.
In addition to months of physical and mental
preparation for the expedition, the members of Troop
65 went from door to door in their suburban-Chicago
community to ask people to pledge money for every
mile the Scouts planned to hike in the Grand Canyon.
The funds will go toward replacing 33 picnic tables
at Indian Garden Campground that are splintering
and falling apart. The troops initial goal was to raise
$1,000 for the project, but by the time the Scouts
reached the Grand Canyon in late July, people back
home had pledged $4,500.
After a day of acclimatizing and preparing at Mather
Campground, the Scouts began their descent of the
South Kaibab Trail at 3 a.m., with the goal of reaching
Bright Angel Campground at the bottom of the Grand
Canyon by 9 a.m. Because the troop was hiking in July
and August, when temperatures in the Canyons inner
gorge can reach triple digits, the Scouts would stretch
the trans-Canyon journey across seven days, always
hitting the trail by 3 a.m. and breaking up the ambitious route into manageable stretches. The pre-dawn
starts left plenty of time each day for splashing in the
creek at camp, playing cards and taking well-deserved
afternoon naps. In addition to the cautious itinerary,
Troop 65 minimized problems on the trail by keeping
the weight of the Scouts backpacks under 18 pounds.
Each Scout carried only a sheet, a tarp, food and water.
While it was the first time most of the Scouts had
been to the Grand Canyon, Troop 65 has been doing

a rim-to-rim-to-rim hike about every four years since
1967. For Zollner, 67, who has been the Scoutmaster off
and on for 30 years, it was his 10th trans-Canyon trek.
Over the years, he and other adult leaders have perfected how to do the ambitious trip safely.
Their approach of minimalist backpacking and
taking adequate time to cover a lot of ground is
exactly what we like to see, says longtime backcountry ranger Bil Vandergraff, who over the years has participated in numerous park rescues of less-prepared
Scout troops, as well as evacuations of injured hikers.
They are doing everything right.
Six days after setting out from the South Rim, Troop
65 reached Indian Garden Campground for their last
night of the trek. All the preparation had paid off, and
the difficult hike had gone off without a hitch. And
two big surprises awaited them. As a way of showing
appreciation for the troops hard work, park rangers
baked cupcakes for the kids and had them waiting at
the campground, located
4.8 miles below the South
Rim. The Scouts also
learned a donor from
the Grand Canyon Association was so inspired
by their efforts that he
offered to match the
funds the Scouts raised.
In all, $9,000 would
be donated toward the
$35,000 picnic-table project thanks to Troop 65.
Plenty of Scouts come
to hike Grand Canyon,
but this is the first time
weve had a troop raise
money for the park as part
of their trip, says Helen
Ranney of the Grand
Canyon Association. The
association, the parks
nonprofit partner, manages fundraising efforts and
is spearheading the replacement of Indian Gardens
shabby benches with tables made of galvanized steel
that will be flown to the campground by helicopter.
What these boys are doing inspires others to support
the place they love, Ranney says.
From the Scouts perspective, the trek was as hard
as they had expected but more rewarding than they
had ever dreamed. When we got to Indian Garden, I
was so tired, and I just wanted a sturdy, clean bench
to sit on, said one of the boys. I feel like a good
person because we have helped all the hikers coming
after us have a nice place to rest.
45
MYSTERIOUS LITTLE BIRDS

Depending on the time of year, as many as 15 species of hummingbirds can be found in Arizona. They come in a rainbow
of colors, but beyond that, we dont know a lot about them there isnt much research on their sounds, social moves, courtship
flights or what any of this means. As our writer writes: They hover right in front of our face, but we hardly know their worlds.
AN E SSAY BY CHAR LE S B O WD EN
A calliope hummingbird
surveys its surroundings in
Springerville. Adult
calliopes are just 3.5 inches
long, making them the
smallest bird species found
in the United States.
BRUCE D. TAUBERT
OWARD EVENING DURING the hot breath of summer, the desert air
matches the body temperature and the line dissolves between your body
and the world around you. As a boy, Id walk the dog under a tree in the
corner of the park at twilight and hummingbirds would hover just over my
head. I knew nothing of their customs or various nations then. But my boys
eyes glimpsed an open door as the night came down and the promise of what
I could be and learn if I left the everyday world and spun up into the sky.
For a long time I seemed to lose that feeling, but now I want to find that
open door again. A rufous comes to the feeder, a blaze of rust and gold to my
eye. A year ago, one was banded a few miles from where I sit, and 18 days later
it was netted again 1,300 miles north in British Columbia. The bird is tiny, and
within its flash of color and that huge distance is the magic I glimpsed as a boy
and now want back.
Susan Wethington sits at the table on Harshaw Creek close by the Mexican border. She is a founder of the Hummingbird Monitoring Network (HMN). Arizona
hosts 14 or 15 species of hummingbirds, and increasingly a raft of guides and bedand-breakfast spots cater to those drawn to the birds. And yet not much is known
about them. The network (10 to 13 sites in Canada, the U.S. and Mexico, plus 300 to
400 volunteers) sets out to find out what they are up to. Her husband, Lee, is busy
trapping, and Susan and an assistant examine and band them.
Susan was a computer-development engineer for IBM, then fell in love with hummingbirds, went back to school for a doctorate in ecology and evolutionary biology,
and is the center of the Hummingbird Monitoring Network. She cant quite say
what drove her to this decision. She is a person who has always taken life one step
at a time and then one day, she says, I knew I had to take a
different step. Maybe what moved her from IBM to this small
Editors Note: If youre a
watershed is captured in the motto of HMN: Protect the Joy.
longtime reader of Arizona
As I watch her I can feel the wonder of those moments under
Highways, youre familiar with
that tree in the park. The crack in the sky once again opens up
Charles Bowden. For decades,
for me.
his beautiful words have been
Its a little before 6 a.m. at the tail end of July, and she craappearing on the pages of our
dles a broad-billed male.
magazine. Sadly, Mr. Bowden
As hummingbirds go, the broad-billed is small 3 to 4
died unexpectedly on August
grams, less than an ounce. Its a border bird, poking up from its
30, 2014. Like so many others,
wintering ground in Mexico to breed into Arizona, New Mexwe were devastated by the
ico and the Big Bend area of Texas. We dont know much about
news. As a writer, teacher and
it there is not much research on its sounds, social moves,
friend, he leaves a void that
courtship flights or what any of this means. This is pretty
cannot be lled.
much our current knowledge of hummingbirds. They hover
right in front of our face, but we hardly know their worlds.
Susan holds the bird in her right hand, checks its weight and general condition
Does it have fat? Is it molting? and slips on a band. The bird is green with a splash
of blue at the throat, an orange bill with a dark tip, everything we find beautiful.
In front of Susan are 10 different band sizes on spikes in a rack made by Lee. There
is a separate rack of tiny pliers hes also made. Lees another retired IBM engineer.
Hes fashioned the net traps he springs to catch hummingbirds. And off to the side
of their house is a bread oven he fashioned because Susan loves to bake She still
owes me some cookies. But everything here comes in second to hummingbirds.
The broad-billed birds earn a kind of affection from her because after all the
weighing and measuring and banding, they remain very calm and will sit on an
open palm sometimes for minutes before they fly away in a flash. The observations
go into a computer database, and inside all these captures here and at the other
sites there is the promise of finally learning a little of what that broad-billed
knows. And what the other hummingbirds know.
This morning the traffic is mainly broad-billed, rufous, violet-crowned, Costas,
47
black-chinned. When they set up the banding operation about

10 miles east on the grasslands around Sonoita, the traffic was
almost totally male black-chinneds. There are highways out
there known to hummingbirds that are just coming to our
attention, just as there are traffic customs separate migrations of males, females, juveniles that we are only beginning
to brush against. We know male broad-billeds seem to have
favorite singing perches, but we are ignorant of the purpose of
their dawn and evening songs.
Hummingbirds hail from back of the beyond, possibly
20 or 30 million years ago, but the growth of the species came
in South America 12 to
13 million years ago when
the Andes rose up. Their
past is hard to track the
tiny bones do not lend
themselves to fossil preservation. The oldest fragment
was found in Germany.
Today, they exist solely in
the Western Hemisphere
and were a surprise to
Europeans when they
stumbled onto this New
World. But hardly to the
natives. Almost any culture
that knew hummingbirds
took note of them. The
Aztec emperor wore a robe
of hummingbird skins.
Huitzilopochtli, the sun
and war god, was portrayed
as a hummingbird. It was
thought that dead warriors
became hummingbirds.
Americans began to
really look at hummingbirds about 70 years ago.
The first successful field
guide did not come until
the 1930s, and hummingbird feeders only hit the
Denise Sandoval Quintana holds
market around 1950. Were
a hummingbird at a banding
still almost on our first
station along Harshaw Creek near
date.
the U.S.-Mexico border.
They live faster than we
MOLLY MOLLOY
can imagine. The wingbeats
can go up to 200 beats per second, but most species range from
around 10 to 80. They are a blur to our eyes. We have some
numbers they can fly from around 17 miles an hour on the
level to power dives of 45. But in the hummingbird world,
scientists lean toward a different measurement how many
body lengths they can move in a second. One study found 385
body lengths per second. To put this in some kind of human
perspective, the space shuttle hit 207 body lengths per second
and the peregrine falcon, generally seen as the avian rocket,
maxes out at 200 body lengths per second. During their court-
If you want to see the widest
array of hummingbirds in the U.S.,

you come to Southern Arizona.
And if you want to see the only
future worth being part of, you
join the world of hummingbirds.
48
JANUARY 2015
ship dives to dazzle females, a male hits a G-force of nine times

gravity, something in the range experienced by a jet fighter.
They have such high energy needs that they go into a kind
of torpor at night, the heartbeat falling from 1,200 a minute to
200 lest they starve to death before dawn. And yet, somehow,
one of the smaller hummingbirds, the rufous, migrates from
Southern Mexico up to Alaska, 2,700 miles each way. In their
journey, people with feeders always know when they are moving through because even in the busy world of hummingbirds
their boisterous ways stand out and suddenly a backyard feels
as if an outlaw motorcycle gang has descended.
All this is part of what took Susan from the computer industry to a table and banding station on Harshaw Creek. But
beneath all the claims of science a kind of magic lurks, and
within the magic is simply the hunger to know what hummingbirds are about. They are creatures of habit. In the spring, 60 to
70 percent of the birds captured on the creek have already been
banded this drops to about 30 percent in the late summer as
the newly hatched birds show up at the feeders. She is working
on a young black-chinned now, delicately placing a band, and
it keeps chirping They tend to talk and Susan stares
through her four-power visor and says things like Cool. She
looks up and sees Lee has a rare failure at trapping a hummer,
and she says, Bummer.
The individual birds are hanging in sacks from a carousel
Lee has created and wait their turn. When Susan has finished,
she hands them off to Denise Sandoval Quintana, a student
from Ciudad Obregon, to weigh. Denise is part of the outreach
of the network, and at the moment other students from Bolivia,
Ecuador and Peru are also working the creek, a defile lined
with cottonwoods and sycamores and stretches of water from
the summer monsoon. Sometimes the birds are a little flustered from being kidnapped in the name of science, and Denise
will hold one in her hand, swoop down as if to a flower, and
insert its bill in a feeder on the table.
And then they calm right down, Susan notes.
The work goes on amid sounds the call of a yellow-billed
cuckoo, the chirp of a hooded oriole in the mesquite, the whirring of hummingbirds that continue to feed on flowers around
the lab table, the light clatter of little tools as Susan moves
from one task to another, and the soft sound of Susan blowing through a straw to lift up the chest feathers and check the
birds for the fat they will need for the looming migration. This
is science with a hummingbird face.
One summer they caught two hummingbirds that were
always together they could tell this from the record of the
bands. Hummingbirds are seen as antisocial, but still these
two seem to live as a team. And some of the visitors here keep
coming back for more. One broad-billed has been captured
for eight years. Hummingbirds were once thought to live fast,
short lives. But banding has found one bird that was 11.
Eleven species have been captured and banded on Harshaw
Creek, but there is no telling what is in store in the future.
On the one hand, the creek is drying out the students from
South America are part of a restoration project among other
things and the temperatures are rising. For a bird with high
energy needs much like modern America such changes
Two hummingbirds, a
black-chinned (top) and a
rufous, compete for nectar.
Hummingbirds are known to
ght for food and territory.
BRUCE D. TAUBERT
can be wrenching. On the other hand, science has tried to look

at hummingbirds from the beginning to now and finds more
than 300 species, and if this growth is pushed ahead millions
of years there could be 700 types of hummingbirds eventually,
a possibility that tantalizes Susan.
At the table on this summer morning on Harshaw Creek
down near that Mexican border, Susan becomes the confluence
between the rigor of science and the drive of her passion. She is
all numbers as she fills in the form on her clipboard with data
on each bird. She teaches classes on banding and finds that
not everyone can do it, that dealing with something as small,
fragile and lively as a hummingbird requires a certain touch.
She rolls a bird over, blows through her straw and there suddenly is the puncture wound left when another hummingbird
stabbed it with its beak.
Hummingbird aggression is an open question. There is no
doubt they fight for food and territory, but Susan wonders if
human observers mistake some of the moves for aggression
when it is simply the darting about of a fellow creature that
seems to roar through life. We are stunned by their energy.
After reveille, a hummingbird feeds and then wanders 5 to
8 kilometers in the morning checking out various flowers.
Their migrations are so vast that humans persist in thinking
they hitch rides on the backs of geese and no, they do not.
We are all seduced by hummingbirds, by the flash of color,
the sudden iridescence, the rapid movement, the hovering, and
the fact that something so small will fly right up to our face.
In a world where so much of the wild flees at our approach,
hummingbirds seem to promise redemption, whatever the real

reason for their behavior.
Which is part of Susans hope and possibly her own experience.
Hummingbirds, she argues, are one of the few animals
people connect with immediately, and every culture with hummingbirds has a positive connection. I think hummingbirds
provide an opportunity to engage people in nature and open
eyes to the natural world. And quite frankly, if we cant save
hummingbirds, what group of animals can we save?
By 10:45, 60 birds have been tagged and processed.
If you want to see the widest array of hummingbirds in the
U.S., you come to Southern Arizona. And if you want to see the
only future worth being part of, you join the world of hummingbirds. They are flashy and quick and on the move. Given
their high food needs, the future could be threatening to them.
Given their millions of years of riding out the storms of life,
their track record puts our own in the shade.
There is always a temptation to say too much about hummingbirds because they hover within our reach and meet our
gaze.
Theyve weathered tens of millions of years and they are still
in our face.
I dont think we know what is going on in their minds or
their worlds.
Here on Harshaw Creek and other similar spots, we just
might begin to learn.
Protect the joy.
49
Francisco Zamora-Arroyo is
working to restore a section
of the Colorado River thats
been mostly dry for decades.
Delta Force
For millions of years, water
from the Colorado River
owed all the way to the Gulf
of California. But not anymore.
The last 90 miles are dry,
and thats where Francisco
Zamora-Arroyo is pouring
his energy. As director of the
Colorado River Delta Legacy
Program, hes ghting hard
to bring the river back.
BY NOAH AUSTIN
PHOTOGRAPH BY
BILL HATCHER
50
JANUARY 2015
BOUT 45 MILES SOUTHWEST OF YUMA, near the border of the Mexican states of Sonora and Baja California, is the Laguna Grande Restoration Area. Here, on a hot, humid mid-September afternoon,
Francisco Zamora-Arroyo climbs down into a meander of the once-mighty Colorado River.
Water pours into the meander from a large irrigation pipe. Wheat chaff burns
in the distance. Roadrunners skitter by, and a hawk circles overhead. Along the
channels banks, willows and cottonwoods that once had nearly disappeared
from the area have regrown naturally a key component of the goal that keeps
Zamora-Arroyo coming back to this oasis.
For millions of years, water from the Colorado nished its 1,450-mile journey
at the Gulf of California, but human intervention has changed that. All the rivers water has been allocated for irrigation and other uses, leaving the Colorado
dry for its nal 90 miles. The change has affected people, wildlife and vegetation
in the rivers delta. More than 90 percent of wetlands there have disappeared
because of a lack of river ow.
As director of the Colorado River Delta Legacy Program (CRDLP) at the Tucson-based Sonoran Institute, Zamora-Arroyo is working to bring the river back
to a place that hasnt seen it in a long time.
Zamora-Arroyo examines the new trees,

pausing occasionally to point a telephoto lens
at the birds that have ocked to the site. As
he prepares to climb out of the meander, he
stops to carefully replace a willow seedling he
inadvertently uprooted. The seedling is one
of thousands, but the act of righting it demonstrates a commitment to the river that he
hopes to engender in others.
One of the reasons the delta is in this condition is that people got disconnected from
the river, Zamora-Arroyo says. They dont
know whats happening to the river. The
younger generations dont even know there
was a river. To them, Colorado River has
become just a name.
near a wastewater-treatment plant, allowing treated effluent to

be returned to the river. It partners with state and federal agencies to promote ecotourism in the delta and create opportunities
for people to get involved. And in 2012, it collaborated with the
U.S. and Mexican governments, along with environmental organizations, to forge Minute 319, an international ve-year agreement that guides the rivers management.
The ultimate goal, Zamora-Arroyo says, is to secure 52,000
acre-feet of water for the delta each year. That base ow
amount of water would keep the deltas groundwater table near
the surface and allow plants to grow. In addition, Minute 319 led
to the 2014 pulse ow, in which the U.S. and Mexico released
105,000 acre-feet of water into the delta from Morelos Dam near
Yuma. A pulse ow is designed to mimic the spring runoff normally seen on an undammed river. And the pulse ow is what
caused those willows in the meander to grow.
amora-Arroyo, 47, grew up in Mexico

City. Frequent hiking, camping and
shing trips, led by his father, spawned a love
and appreciation of the outdoors. And seeing
Jacques Cousteaus weekly TV specials helped
spur him to pursue a career as a marine biologist. As he was completing his bachelors
degree in oceanography at the Autonomous
University of Baja California in Mexicali,
Zamora-Arroyo developed an interest in protecting nature, as opposed to just learning
about it.
He geared his pursuits toward gaining a
well-rounded perspective of environmental issues. He earned a masters degree in
marine resource management and a Ph.D. in
resource geography from Oregon State University. Now, he says, I know enough of different elds to have an integrated view of the
systems, the needs and the solutions.
Zamora-Arroyo started working in the
river delta in 1998, shortly after the Sonoran Institute began
exploring restoration opportunities there. Out of those explorations came the CRDLP, and in 2002, Zamora-Arroyo was hired as
the programs rst full-time staff member.
Today, the program has about two dozen employees. Its main
purpose is to restore critical habitats in the delta for the benet
of people and wildlife. That includes the Cocopah Tribe, whose
members have shed in the Colorado for centuries, and the Yuma
clapper rail, one of the endangered birds that make their homes
along the river.
But restore, Zamora-Arroyo notes, is a loaded term. The programs goal is not to return the delta to the way it was before
humans dammed the river. We want to create a functional system a network of restoration sites that is sustainable yearround, he says. The CRDLP has restored 350 acres so far and
plans to add another 400 acres by 2017.
Through a trust, the program buys and leases Colorado River
water rights and dedicates that water to the river. In 2009, it
worked with the water authority in Mexicali to create a wetland
bout twice a month, Zamora-Arroyo commutes from Tucson to the Laguna Grande site and the Sonoran Institutes
Mexicali office. Within a few minutes of his arrival, its easy to
see why frequent visits are necessary: There always are decisions
to make and information to gather.
Workers scoop mud from irrigation trenches and chop down
invasive salt cedars while Zamora-Arroyo and his staff discuss
plans. The conversation, in Spanish but peppered with English
phrases like overhead costs, centers on building a small reservoir to irrigate some of the trees. September is a difficult month
for irrigation, he says. The area is so big now that we need
more certainty about water.
The pulse ows effects are still being studied, but in the
ows nal week, Colorado River water reached the Gulf of California for the rst time since the late 1990s. During the event,
people in the delta saw the once-mighty Colorado ow. Some
of them were seeing it for the rst time. Zamora-Arroyo visited with his 10-year-old son, hoping, as he did with his now-21year-old daughter, to impart the same connection to nature that
Zamora-Arroyos father instilled. It worked for me, he says.
Hopefully, it will work for him.
Zamora-Arroyos connection to the Colorado came in 1998,
when above-average runoff allowed the release of water into
the delta from upstream dams. He and two friends decided to
traverse a stretch of the newly owing river, much like a journey Aldo Leopold described in A Sand County Almanac. ZamoraArroyo and his friends, though, made the trip in a cheap
inatable boat with a motor that didnt really work, and they
got lost in the weeds and had to spend a night on the river.
Zamora-Arroyo counts the episode among his near-death
experiences, but he cherishes it. He got to see the river owing
and hear the birds that ocked to it, just as they had for millions
of years. That picture is always in my mind, he says. And as the
Laguna Grande site has begun to match that picture, its renewed
Zamora-Arroyos commitment to his work.
It feels good to say, Look what we have done, he says. It
feels good to deliver.
To learn more about the Sonoran Institute and the Colorado River Delta Legacy
Program, call 520-290-0828 or visit www.sonoraninstitute.org.
51
scenic drive
Saguaro National
Park East
Craggy peaks, sweeping vistas, spectacular

sunsets and saguaros are just some of what youll
see on this scenic drive, which loops through 8 miles
of rugged desert at an elevation of 3,000 feet.
BY NIKKI BUCHANAN | PHOTOGRAPHS BY RANDY PRENTICE
or tourists and locals alike, the word

forest usually conjures trees, not
a stand of saguaro cactuses covered
in spines. But candelabra-shaped saguaros,
found exclusively in our Sonoran Desert,
are classified as arborescent (tree-like),
so the forest label is hardly a stretch.
Nomenclature aside, Tucsons cactus forest tucked within Saguaro National
Park East and nestled up against the
Rincon Mountains is as starkly beautiful as any primeval forest youve ever seen
or imagined.
Thanks to Cactus Forest Drive, a
paved, one-way road that loops through
8 miles of rugged desert at an elevation of
roughly 3,000 feet, visitors to this peace-
52
JANUARY 2015
ful preserve are quickly immersed in our

states most iconic assets: craggy peaks,
sweeping vistas, spectacular sunsets and
cactuses, cactuses, cactuses.
A smart first step is stopping at the
visitors center for maps, literature and a
short video on the flora and fauna of the
park, an area thick with desert scrub such
as creosotes, mesquites and paloverdes.
This arid place is also home to 25 species
of cactuses and 230 species of vertebrate
desert critters, ranging from ground
squirrels and Gila woodpeckers to mule
deer and bobcats.
In late winter and early spring, youre
likely to find birds nesting and wildflowers blooming. Creamy-white blossoms
adorn the saguaros from April to June,

succeeded in June and July by the ripe, red
fruit that coyotes and javelinas favor. If
you visit deep into summer, you might see
a small herd of adult javelinas and their
babies sprawled out and snoozing in the
dirt. Summer temperatures make these
people-shy peccaries (which arent actually related to pigs) bold enough to seek
out the ample shade of the visitors center.
Back in the car, youll veer to the left,
following a narrow, undulating road
so full of twists and turns that driving
BELOW: Slabs of metamorphic gneiss overlook the
namesake cactuses of Saguaro National Park East.
OPPOSITE PAGE: Sunset silhouettes a mature
saguaro at the park.
slowly is a must, given that youll be

sharing the road with the occasional
cyclist or hiker. Nearly a mile in, youll
find the first of four overlooks featuring information posts with interesting
and little-known desert lore, as well as
views sure to elicit a wow or two.
A mile beyond Cactus Forest Overlook (the second pullout and one of the
most impressive), youll find the interpretive Desert Ecology Trail, a paved,
wheelchair-accessible path that spurs
even the most sedentary to leave the
car and take an easy 0.3-mile stroll. The
more adventurous can stop, park and
take the Cactus Forest Trail south for
2.5 miles to where it crosses the park
road again. The seriously committed
might venture into the wilds of the
Rincons with a tent, a backpack and
park permission to camp overnight.
For the rest of us, there are another
4.5 miles of gorgeous desert driving,
plus a picnic area near the end of the
loop because who doesnt work up
an appetite out in the forest?
SCENIC
ADDITIONAL READING:
For more scenic drives, order a
copy of our newest book, Scenic
Drives, which features 40 of the
states most beautiful back roads.
To order a copy, visit www.shop
arizonahighways.com/books.
DRIVES
40
of Arizonas
Best Back
Roads
Edited by Robert Stieve

and Kelly Vaughn Kramer
tour guide
Tanque Verde
Ta n q u e
Note: Mileages are approximate.
Ve r d e C r e e k
LENGTH: 8-mile loop
N
O
star t he re
Pa
nt
Visitors
Center
Houghton Rd.
Mica View
Picnic Area
Old Spanish Trail

22nd St.
Freeman Rd.
Broadway Blvd.
TA
I N
S
S A G U A R O
N AT I O N A L PA R K
Harrison Rd.
To Downtown
Tucson
Kolb Rd.
Speedway Blvd.
Cactus Forest
Drive
Javelina
Picnic Area
an
o
as
W
KEVIN KIBSEY
To I-10
Old Spanish Trail
DIRECTIONS: From downtown Tucson, go east on

Broadway Boulevard for 8.4 miles to Old Spanish Trail.
Turn right onto Old Spanish Trail and continue 5.8 miles
to Cactus Forest Drive, which leads into Saguaro National
Park East. Turn left onto Cactus Forest Drive and
continue 0.2 miles to a fork. Bear left at the fork to stay
on Cactus Forest Drive, then continue 8 miles around the
loop and back to the starting point.
VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None
SPECIAL CONSIDERATION: The parks entry fee is $10 for
passenger vehicles and $5 for pedestrians and bicyclists.

The park is open to vehicles from 7 a.m. to sunset, and the
visitors center is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
WARNING: Back-road travel can be hazardous, so be
aware of weather and road conditions. Carry plenty of
water. Dont travel alone, and let someone know where
you are going and when you plan to return.
INFORMATION: Saguaro National Park East, 520-733-5153
or www.nps.gov/sagu
Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov or dial
511 to get information on road closures, construction,
delays, weather and more.
53
hike of the month
Hells Hole
Trail
If your New Years resolution was to push yourself to the extreme in 2015, this
trail is a good place to start. Its one of the states most challenging trails, but
the payoff is out of this world. BY ROBERT STIEVE | PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEFF SNYDER
f you need some time alone, then Hells

Hole is where you want to be. Although
it sounds ironic that any part of hell is
a better option than wherever it is you
might be coming from, in this case, it is. If
ever there was a place thats off the grid,
Hells Hole is it.
From the trailhead, which is located

under the tall pines of the Reynolds Creek
Campground, the route begins a gradual
uphill climb through the trees. Because
the high end of the trail sits about a mile
above sea level, snow is possible this time
of year. As with any trail, its always best
to call ahead and check on conditions.

About 15 minutes in, youll come to an
impressive alligator juniper, followed by
an equally impressive manzanita. Beyond
them, the trail begins a downhill stretch
through a thick forest of ponderosa pines
and Douglas firs. Unlike some of the pine
forests in other parts of the state, including those around the South Rim of the
Grand Canyon, the ground cover here is
especially thick. And especially beautiful. Also, at this point, the trail is well
marked and easy to follow. By the end of
the hike, things will be different.
Not to be outdone by the impressive
juniper and manzanita, one of the largest
ponderosas youll ever see grabs your
attention at the 30-minute mark. There are
more pines as you move along, but none
quite like this. Eventually, the evergreens
will give way to scrub oaks and pions,
and the views will open up and give you a
good sense of just how rugged the Salome
Wilderness is. As you make your way
north, youll start hearing the sounds of
Workman Creek. You wont see it, not yet,
but you will hear it. Like Salome Creek,
which runs east-west through the entire
wilderness area, Workman Creek is a
perennial stream that supports a decent
population of brown trout and rainbow
trout. The fish, in turn, serve as main
entres for some of the areas wildlife,
which includes bobcats, badgers, ringtails
and coyotes.
After an hour, youll arrive at the
water. The riparian nature of Workman
Creek makes it a great place to gear up
for the rest of the hike and the descent
into Hells Hole. But first, youll officially
cross into the Salome Wilderness and
begin a lengthy uphill climb. Along the
way youll pass an intersection with the
Boyer Trail, the only other established
trail in the wilderness. Veer right to stay
LEFT: Sunsets reected glow colors the connes of a
creek along the Hell's Hole Trail.
OPPOSITE PAGE: The landscape of the Salome
Wilderness is rugged and rocky.
54
JANUARY 2015
on the Hells Hole Trail, which crosses

a muddy mesa that leads to the brutal
switchbacks that will take you into the
trails namesake. Not only are the switchbacks steep, and more challenging on the
way out, but theyre also overgrown with
prickly brush, making it difficult to find
your way. You dont have to be Magellan
to navigate the mess, but you do have to
pay attention. Sometimes when you think
youre supposed to go right, you need to
go left. And vice versa. The bushwhacking
is worth it, though.
By the time you get to the end of the
trail, after almost three hours of hiking,
youll be greeted once again by Workman
Creek. This time, though, its in a deep
canyon and the waterway is flooded with
large boulders, many of which are as big
as Barcaloungers. Theres no guarantee
you wont run into other people at the
bottom, but its unlikely. And if you do,
theyll likely be like-minded it takes
a special hiker to hike into a place called
Hells Hole.
ADDITIONAL READING:
For more hikes, pick up a copy
of Arizona Highways Hiking
Guide, which features 52 of the
states best trails one for each
weekend of the year, sorted by
seasons. To order a copy, visit
www.shoparizonahighways.
com/books.
trail guide
Reynolds Creek
Campground
k
ee
LENGTH: 12 miles round-trip
tra i l h ead
DIFFICULTY: Strenuous
Hells Hole
Sa
lo
ELEVATION: 4,389 to 5,226 feet
S A L O M E
W I L D E R N E S S
TRAILHEAD GPS: N 3352.262', W 11058.511'
288
ve
188
Theodore
Roosevelt Lake
Saguaro
Lake
VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None

HORSES ALLOWED: Yes
88
USGS MAPS: Armer Mountain, Copper Mountain,

McFadden Peak
INFORMATION: Pleasant Valley Ranger District,
928-462-4300 or www.fs.usda.gov/tonto
88
88
T O N T O
N A T I O N A L F O R E S T
KEVIN KIBSEY
lt
DOGS ALLOWED: Yes (on a leash)
Apache
Lake
Canyon
Lake
Sa
LEAVE-NO-TRACE PRINCIPLES:
60
Apache
Junction
60
DIRECTIONS: From Claypool, go north on State Route 88

for approximately 15 miles to its junction with State
Route 288. Bear right onto SR 288 and continue 27 miles
to the trailhead at Reynolds Creek Campground.
Claypool
Miami
Globe
To Phoenix
60
Plan ahead and be

prepared.
Travel and camp on
durable surfaces.
Dispose of waste
properly and pack
out all of your trash.

Leave what you nd.
Respect wildlife.
Minimize campre
impact.
Be considerate of others.
55
where is this?
October 2014
Answer & Winner
NICK BEREZENKO
La Posada, Winslow.
Congratulations
to our winner, Dale
Ayers of Brandon,
Mississippi.
November 2014
Answer & Winner
KERRICK JAMES
RANDY PRENTICE
DeGrazia Gallery
in the Sun, Tucson.
Congratulations
to our winner, Ray
Emond of Tempe,
Arizona.
Hole in the Wall

This moonrise was photographed at an Arizona ghost town once known for lead- and
zinc-mining. Today, the site is one of the best-preserved ghost towns in the state, with more
than two dozen buildings still standing. Its also known for its seasonal bat population.
56
JANUARY 2015
Win a collection of our

most popular books!
To enter, correctly identify the location pictured
at left and email your
answer to editor@
arizonahighways.com
type Where Is This? in
the subject line. Entries
can also be sent to
2039 W. Lewis Avenue,
Phoenix, AZ 85009
(write Where Is This?
on the envelope). Please
include your name,
address and phone
number. One winner will
be chosen in a random
drawing of qualied
entries. Entries must be
postmarked by January
15, 2015. Only the winner
will be notied. The
correct answer will be
posted in our March
2015 issue and online at
www.arizonahighways.
com beginning February 15.
The Best Ever. Period.

Ansel Adams, Edward Curtis, Barry Goldwater, Josef Muench, Jack Dykinga for almost 90 years,
Arizona Highways has been featuring the best work of the best photographers in the world.
In our newest coffee-table book, we present the best of the best.
SAVE
$12.99
12" x 9" Hardcover. Item #ABPH3. Was $39.99 now $27.00. Use code P5A5GB to take advantage of this offer.
Offer expires 1/31/15
Order online at www.shoparizonahighways.com or by calling 800-543-5432.

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JANUARY 2015

THE BEST OF FLAGSTAFF,

SLEEP & SPLURGE

PLUS: SOME HISTORY, SOME HIKES

AND: TROOP 65 HELPS RESTORE INDIAN GARDEN SAGUARO NATIONAL PARK

24 ITS IN THE DETAILS

32 THE GREAT BEYOND

46 MYSTERIOUS LITTLE BIRDS

GET MORE ONLINE

Arizona Highways is on Instagram

54 HIKE OF THE MONTH

highwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191.

Z A sandstorm on the Navajo Nation cloaks Monument

FRONT COVER Sunrise illuminates Cathedral Rock, one of

BACK COVER A blue-throated hummingbird takes aim at

it, but for him, the exercise

HUMMINGBIR DS. Some are

VOL. 91, NO. 1

DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero

CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES

Hennen Publishing &

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

GOVERNOR Doug Ducey

FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen

MEMBERS Joseph E. La Rue

Arizona Highways (ISSN 0004-1521) is published monthly by

VICE CHAIRMAN Kelly O. Anderson

letters to the editor

U.S. Postal Service

Mountains are my favourite and mostvisited place in all of Arizona.

tiful Arizona. This months issue [August

If you have thoughts or comments about anything in Arizona Highways, wed

KEEPING UP DOWN UNDER

THE JOURNAL 01.15

1893 (forest reserve), 1908 (national monument), 1919 (national park)

national parks centennial

efore President Theodore Roosevelt named the Grand

the great sights which every American should see.

Arizonas native people. Archaeological evidence stick gurines,

EDITORS NOTE: In August 2016,

The Earthquake of 1887?

Graeme, who has extensive knowledge

BISBEE MINING & HISTORICAL MUSEUM

he next time you visit Bisbee,

The January 1965

amount of fear. I set a very high bar for

graph (right) of Buenos Aires?

ing from surgery, I had a chance to research

JD: Im very comfortable using a 4x5 view

Nikons new D810, which has essentially

back. The D810 makes the manual focus-

camera, and when I started shooting more

the same 36-megapixel sensor as my

ing of this lens very easy with something

digital les a few years ago, I was able to

D800 but comes with some really slick

called live-view split-screen focus. Using

take advantage of perspective-correcting

new features. I used the D810 and a 24 mm

your cameras LCD screen, you are able

lenses. The shift and tilt movements built

tilt-shift lens to make this photo. This

to open two windows showing different

allowed me to tilt the lens without rotat-