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com
TRUDIE
& STING
MAKING WINE
IN ITALY
OUR GUIDE TO
PROSECCO: THE
WINES, THE REGION
NEW WORLD VALUES,
FRENCH WINE STYLE
THE BOUNTY OF
PIEDMONT: 750+
NEW RELEASES
WOLFGANG PUCKS
PERFECT MATCH
CONTENTS
I think in some ways its a pejorative: celebrity wine. Because there is so much of it.
We havent been here for generations. But we are serious. We are committed.STING
COVER STORY
44
Features
TA S T I N G R E P O R T S
89
PEOPLE
i>iiv*iUBen ODonnell
58Touring Proseccoland
TOP LEFT: ANDREW PURCELL; BOTTOM LEFT: JUSTIN SULLIVAN; BOTTOM RIGHT: JESSAMYN HARRIS
Grapevine
Departments
15
17
12
Feedback
18
39
21
24
42
27
28
UPeter D. Meltzer
36 Savvy Shopper Douro reds, fresh whites and Old World
iiiUAlison Napjus
TO P - S C O R I N G W I N E S T H I S I S S U E
Blandys Bual
Madeira 1966
97 POINTS, $300
TOP: LOOK DIE BILDAGENTUR DER FOTOGRAFEN GMBH / ALAMY; MIDDLE: MICK ROCK/CEPHAS
THIS ISSUE
DAVID YELLEN
taly is our focus this issue, and we continue the theme with
coverage of Piedmont and Prosecco.
Prosecco has become a worldwide phenomenon. But is it
just a fad? Senior editor Alison Napjus explains what makes this
sparkling wine special and points you to the top bottles.
The vineyards that produce Prosecco are located not far from
Venice, in picturesque countryside that makes a delightful travel
Marvin R. Shanken
Editor and Publisher
Thomas Matthews
Executive Editor
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FEEDBACK
LOVE EM AND LEAVE EM
Wine lovers today are inundated with so many wines from around the globe that wine monogamy
grows unrealistic, argues contributing editor Matt Kramer (Cool About Wine? online, Dec. 1, 2015).
In the face of sheer abundance, have todays enophiles traded emotional commitment for a more forensic approach to wine? Readers respond to what Kramer calls the contemporary wine paradox.
Remembering
Serio Borgogno
I am saddened to report to
the wine community that
Serio Borgogno, patriarch of
the Serio & Battista Borgogno Barolo wine family,
died on Jan. 24, at the age of
88 years, at his home in Italys Piedmont region.
I first met this exceptional
individual over 25 years ago.
His personality was as robust
Correction
In Willamette Valleys Strong
Hand (Jan. 31 - Feb. 29), Jackson Family Wines purchased
Solna Estates Yamhill-Carlton
vineyard, winery and tasting
room; founders Laurent and
Danielle Montalieu retained the
Solna label.
GRAPEVINE
WINE
FOOD
PEOPLE
COL L ECT I NG
JOSH RITCHIE
N E W S
Wine Spectator Releases
Free App for Values
Wine lovers want great quality, but they also
want value. To meet that need, Wine Spectator
has launched its latest tool: Xvalues, a free,
easy-to-use wine app highlighting extreme values, now available for download.
Our goal is to make Xvalues the go-to app
for wine consumers of varying ages and levels
of wine expertise, said Jessica Shanken, vice
president of business development at M. Shanken Communications, which publishes Wine
Spectator. Through Xvalues, were excited to
educate and enlighten new generations of wine
lovers and help them please their dates, friends
and family. The app is easy to use for anyone
Firefighters rush to try to contain the fire on Simonsberg.
and everyone.
Robin Williams, who died in 2014. The property has sold grapes for some time to Napa winTOP: JUSTIN SULLIVAN; BOTTOM: COURTESY TESSERON FAMILY
eries, but the Tesserons plan to begin making their own wine there.
There is a great vineyard planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc,
said Alfred Tesseron.
Williams purchased the property in 1994 and put it on the market in 2012. The Tesserons
have agreed to pay $18.1 million, according to one media report. Tesseron would not confirm
that figure.
The 653-acre property, located on Mount Veeder, includes a 20,000-square-foot residence
and 18.4 acres of vines. The grapes are currently being sold to wineries such as Robert Craig
and Rombauer. Tesseron says they have no immediate plans to plant additional acres.
Emma Balter, with reporting by James Molesworth
T H I N G S
W E
L I K E
here are lots of parallels between wine and olive oil. Both have
one harvest per year; the best offerings are single-origin, vintagedated bottlings; tasting them is similar, from nosing and judging
body and flavor on the palate to aerating and assessing length.
They even grow in many of the same places.
producing wine and olives since Roman times. The Bonaccorsi family arrived in the 15th century. Today their descendants run the property, with a winery, oil production, a
cooking school, tasting room and accommodations.
They weathered the disastrous 2014 by taking the extreme move of not opening their mill, opting to have no oil
rather than possibly lesser oil in minuscule quantities.
Theyre back with a 2015 that is a beauty: textbook Tuscan
deep green leads to a light pepper- and asparagus-tinged
nose. Its friendly and balanced but still robust, with a great,
slightly edgy grassy flavor. The finish is long and savory,
showing a mushroom character.
MENTIS ESTATE
www.mentisestate.com; 500ml, $13.95
The olive originally comes from the eastern Mediterranean,
in 1973. When founder Italo Zingarelli bought it, there were just 5 acres of grapes on the
property. Today they have more than 500 acres of vines and 80 of olive trees. The next
generation is running the show and a third is in the wings. Like some select wineries in
Tuscany, Rocca delle Macie offers accommodations, including a borgo, or restored town,
art events, wine tastings and sales, and a restaurant. It also made no oil in 2014.
Its oil is what people expect from a Tuscan: brilliant green with a peppery and herbaceous aroma. One sip and you get that powerful Tuscan pepper kick. The finish is big and
long, with continuing grass and fruit notes. Use this to punch up your aglio e olio.
lia, was 2000. Today he has multiple bottlings and another winery, Twelftree, which
focuses on single-vineyard Grenache.
Heres proof positive that good olive oil doesnt only come from the Mediterranean.
Perfect olive-growing climates abound, especially in California, South America and
Australia. What was to some degree a novelty 15 years ago has been replaced by real
quality. Twelftrees small production has a buttery golden color and a light, piquant
aroma of hay. Its rich and very agreeable, more floral than fruity, with a light, lingering
kick along the finish. Though not especially complex, it is perfectly balanced.
GEORGE BARBERIS
and there is evidence that olive oil was being made there
8,000 years ago. And yet today bottles from Italy and Spain
dominate the U.S. market. This is as much because of their
popular cuisines as it is because Greece, for example, sells
a lot of its oil as bulk, some of it even to be blended into oils
from higher-profile countries.
This is changing. Younger generations of Greeks are discovering that they are capable of producing quality oil and
modernizing to ensure it gets to market in perfect shape.
Anastassios Mentis, grandson of the founder of this Greek
producer, which dates to 1930, is bottling an estate oil after
decades of his family selling bulk. Its made from olives called
Atheniola; in mythology, Athena gave olives from this region (Laconia, formerly known as Sparta) to the city of Athens. They yield a golden, butter-colored oil with a light breezy
aroma, almost sweet. Theres a slight prickle on the palate
and a subtle aroma of artichoke. This is a really friendly, lowacid, rich and creamy oil.
T R A V E L
MAKING PRIVATE LABELS
IN TUSCANY
Website www.baglionihotels.com/cala-delporto-punta -ala-florence-tuscany
While Tuscanys Maremma wine region may
not have the historic wineries and wellgroomed landscape of neighboring Chiantishire, it does have its own rustic beauty,
and wine quality there is rapidly improving.
From April through October, Maremmas
seaside Baglioni Hotel Cala del Porto offers a
package that draws visitors into wine country.
Guests can create about 300 bottles of their
own barrel blend at the Rocca di Frassinello
vineyard; winemaker Alessandro Cellai, who
also oversees Castellare di Castellina in Chianti, will help guests select from Sangiovese,
The former abbey housing this luxury hotel dates to the 12th century.
our years ago, eminent Duero winery Abada Retuerta opened its LeDomaine hotel in a 12thcentury abbey surrounded by vineyards. For the 2016 season, the hotel has introduced eight
new rooms and added amenities. Now topping out at 30 rooms and served by a major spa and
three restaurants, LeDomaine offers an indulgent level of service. Butlers contact guests before
arrival and are always available via a loaned mobile phone. The spa has a sommelier who runs samplings of aromas and wines to customize guests experiences. The food at the beautiful restaurant in
the former refectory is overseen by Andoni Luis Aduriz of Spains Michelin two-star Mugaritz. Other
dining venues include the more casual Jardn del Claustro and the wine cellar, or even butler service
under a tree in the vineyards. Winery tours are available, as are vineyard tours by horse, four-wheeldrive vehicle or helicopter. Or you could switch it up and take a falconry class. Rates begin at $480.
Owen Dugan
Website www.wauwinet.com/dining/toppers-tidbits
Grand Awardwinning Toppers restaurant is nestled in the Wauwinet, a 19th-century inn on the eastern
coast of Nantucket. Soon after Toppers opens for the spring season, on April 21, chef Kyle Zachary and
cellar master Craig Hanna will host the Nantucket Wine Festival with two wine dinners, featuring Billecart-Salmon Champagne ($275 per person) and a range of Peter Michael wines ($250). Zacharys
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: PANCHO R. EGUIAGARAY; MARCO BECK PECCOZ; CHARLIE GESSELL
menus will highlight local seafood and spring specialties such as fiddlehead ferns, mushrooms and pine
nuts. The festival occupies Nantucket for five days and offers more than 50 events. Prices range from
$50 to $2,975.
S.F.
23, and Sunday, April 24, more than 45 wineries will open their doors and vineyards to
Passport holders. Standard tickets ($135 for two days) get you exclusive tours, library
tastings and access to food and entertainment. Winemakers and growers lead guests
into the vineyards, cellars and tasting rooms, but if you want to drink wine, eat well and listen to
music, you can do that too. On Friday, April 22, Prelude tickets get you lunch ($76) or dinner ($155)
prepared by local chefs at participating wineries, including Sbragia and Pedroncelli. Dry Creeks
character is down to earth, so expect casual, warm and fun visits. The winery list will offer special
Dry Creek Valley has an open house with food, music and wine.
O.D.
C H E E S E
BY DAVID GIBBONS
C H O C O L A T E
London Calling
BY OWEN DUGAN
hantal Coady launched a quiet revolution when she opened Rococo Chocolates on the Kings Road in London in 1983. The
shop was friendly and warm, and the chocolates had fun, bright
packaging. That might not sound revolutionary today, but at the
time it was. Coady had been working at Harrods, which was gratifying
because the chocolate was good, but she says of London chocolate stores
then, They didnt make the
customer comfortable.
There was a cultural obstacle too: There was this
Anglo-Saxon embarrassment at pleasure or indulgence. If people saw a friend
at a chocolate shop, they
were embarrassed, like they
were at a sex shop.
She wanted to forge an
emotional connection with
Rococo founder Chantal Coady
customers. And change was
in the air: I was coming from an anarchist-punk period, and
it was happening all around me. I wanted to be different.
Her upbringing fed both tradition and reinvention. She was
born in Iranher father was a doctor of tropical medicine
and lived in several tropical countries. But her family always
had a London base, and she moved there after attending boarding school in the country from age 9. So she has deep traditional memoriesCadburys milk I always loved, and the bars
with strawberry cream were greatbut also more exposure
than most to the aromas and flavors of the Spice Route.
The store opened with an emphasis on quality rather than
innovative flavors: We had some chocolate from France, a
lot of Easter eggs, and fondant creams. I wasnt going to sell
them, but customers demanded them. Theyre still a top seller.
She continued to learn, and after discovering Valrhona,
she staged with the company in France, learning to make
truffles, among other things. It was a revelation, she recalls.
It wasnt that difficult, and it was very delicious and fresh.
She also founded, with Alan and Nicola Porter, the Chocolate Society, which aimed to educate people about the difference between industrial and artisanal chocolate.
Around 1990, Coady started flavoring bars in London, both
traditional flavors like ginger and orange and new ones like black peppernothing too wild at first. Herbs and spices were not often mixed
with chocolate at the time, and for Coady the inspiration was discovery: [With] a lot of them we were just playing around, but historically
chocolate had been used in savory foods.
Some combinations referenced parts of her life. The cardamom [in
a white chocolate bar] and Persian lime [with basil in a dark bar] are
flavors of my childhood. Others came from specific moments. I was
walking on the beach in Cornwall eating a chocolate ice cream and had
salt from the ocean on my lips. I thought, Thats great. From this her
sea salt bar was born.
The buying public required some hand-holding. It was a bit of a
shock. Wed say, Just taste this, and theyd struggle to identify it. Then
youd tell them, and theyd say, Of course.
P E R F E C T
M A T C H
RECOMMENDED WINES
CHEFS PICK: Reynvaan Syrah Walla Walla Valley In The Rocks In The Rocks Vineyard 2012
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Red Blend Columbia Valley
2012 (90, $18); Delas St.-Joseph Ste.-pine 2013 (94, $70)
18 teaspoon crushed cayenne pepper flakes
12 cup harissa paste
1 cup mayonnaise
14 cup Greek yogurt
1 12 teaspoons sugar
12 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon fresh mint, finely chopped, plus
more for garnish
1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, finely chopped
2 112-pound racks of lamb, frenched
2 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped
Black pepper
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Serves 6 to 8.
hen he
opened
Spago in
Los Angeles in 1982, Wolfgang Puck wanted to
shake up the fine-dining scene, whose for- WOLFGANG PUCK
mality struck him as SPAGO
fussy. I said, forget BEVERLY HILLS
about thatthe only
serious thing should be the food, he says.
Pucks idea of serious foodloosened up locavore cooking drawing on diverse culturesis
known today as California cuisine, and the
now-iconic Spago has held a Wine Spectator
Grand Award since 2010.
Now everybody talks about farm to table,
farm to table, Puck remarks. You know, I grew
up on a farm, so to me that was totally normal.
For me, luxury was a canned pineapple.
Pucks early training included a stint at the
Michelin three-star LOustau de Baumanire
in Provence, an experience he describes as
transcendent. The restaurant specialized in
lamb dishes, which were often served with
Chteauneuf-du-Pape.
At Spago, Puck reached back to his time in
Provence for inspiration. What was our main
thing at Spago when we opened up? Lamb,
Puck declares. Every day we roasted the legs,
the rack, the saddle, or made lamb sausage for
the pizza with the shoulder and the neck.
For this springtime recipe, Puck and chef de
cuisine Tetsu Yahagi chose a Middle Eastern
style grilled rack of lamb with smoky eggplant
puree and spicy harissa sauce, garnished with
fresh mint leaves.
Puck pairs the bold-flavored dish with Reynvaan Syrah Walla Walla Valley In The Rocks
In The Rocks Vineyard 2012, from Washington; it reminds him of the Chteauneufs he
admired at Le Baumanire. You get this black
pepper, earthy stone flavor, Puck notes. I
think it marries very well with lamb.
Hilary Sims
E V E N T S
The Classic Wines Auction in Portland, Ore., raised $1.6 million for charity in 2015.
Huey Lewis and the News, who performed at Wine Spectators 2015
New York Wine Experience.
Aside from luxury packages,
large-format bottles brought in
many top bids in 2015, such as the
$500,000 paid at Auction Napa
Valley for a one-of-a-kind balthazar (12 liters) of 2012 Screaming
Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon.
At the Rusty Staub Foundations
24th annual wine auction, the
highest-earning lots included a
BENEFICIARIES
LOCATION
LIVE BIDS*
Naples, Fla.
St. Helena, Calif.
Kenwood, Calif.
Miromar Lakes, Fla.
Oakville, Calif.
Miramar Beach, Fla.
Houston
$11,100,000
$11,060,000
$2,441,500
$2,200,000
$2,128,950
$2,017,417
$1,796,000
Portland, Ore.
New York
Atlanta
TOTAL
$1,613,115
$1,363,600
*Each year, Wine Spectator tracks the results of charity wine auctions in the United States. These auctions have multiple revenue streams, from ticket sales, corporate sponsorships, and silent
and live auctions. For the purpose of comparison, the auctions are ranked by their self-reported live auction totals.
JOHN VALLS
$1,172,592
$36,893,174
W I N E
A U C T I O N S
2014 SALES
PERCENT
(IN USD MILLIONS) CHANGE
NEW YORK
Zachys
Acker Merrall & Condit
Sothebys
Wallys
Christies
$30.88
$30.60
$26.30
$10.85
$10.80
$16.09
$27.11
$15.40
$17.68
$10.18
92%
13%
71%
-39%
7%
$109.43
$86.46
27%
$41.48
$6.56
$4.54
$2.65
$42.77
$11.57
$4.46
$2.38
$5.57
$4.99
-3%
-43%
2%
11%
$164.66
$158.20
4%
Sothebys London
Christies London
Bonhams London
Christies Geneva
Bonhams Edinburgh
$14.20
$13.30
$5.00
$3.80
$1.04
$21.10
$16.05
$5.70
-32%
-21%
-12%
$36.98
$42.85
-14%
$33.57
$19.90
$19.30
$18.29
$7.35
$28.96
$28.80
$24.97
$18.50
$1.24
16%
-31%
-23%
-1%
493%
$98.41
$102.47
-4%
Winebid.com
Zachys
Acker Merrall & Condit
Spectrum
Christies
Wallys
Heritage
$24.20
$6.38
$5.70
$4.35
$2.80
$1.78
$0.62
$24.00
$5.65
$5.68
$3.65
$3.62
$1.50
$0.75
1%
13%
0%
19%
19%
-18%
$45.83
$44.85
2%
$345.88
$348.37
-1%
$61.75
$65.30
$53.00
$45.23
13%
-8%
8%
22%
OTHER U.S.
INTERNET ONLY
TOTAL
$69.87
$60.40
$57.20
$55.50
S A V V Y
S H O P P E R
DO THE DOURO
KING CABERNET
WHITE WEDDING
Winemakers know that sometimes the whole
is greater than the sum of its parts; marrying
two or more local grape varieties often results
in a more distinctive wine. From Chenin Blanc
to Chasselas and Viognier to
Viosinho, these lively whites
blend both well-known and
more obscure grapes, resulting
in an exciting range of flavors
to explore.
MULLINEUX Old Vines Swartland White 2014 (91, $28)
White peach, chamomile,
verbena; elegant
BUIL & GIN Priorat White
Joan Gin 2014 (90, $25)
Juicy; peach, pineapple
JLIO BASTOS Alentejo
White Dona Maria 2014 (89,
$17) Apple, pear, baked peach,
butter, spice; ripe, structured
MARVELOUS Western Cape
White 2013 (89, $15) Alluring;
ginger, almond, peach, apple
CASA DE SANTAR Do White
2014 (88, $16) Almond,
mineral, beeswax; rich
CHTEAU DE LUC Corbires
White Les Jumelles 2014
(88, $16) Bright; spice, lemon
cream, glazed peach, almond
PHILIPPE VIALLET Vin de
Savoie Perle de Savoie 2014
(88, $16) White peach, star
fruit, flowers; fresh
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
94 Sojourn
Pinot Noir Sonoma
Coast Gaps
Crown Vineyard
2014 $59
CALIFORNIA Lightly
aromatic, but rich
and layered, this
offers excellent
density and depth, with fine-grained tannic
grip and a long, persistent finish.
COLLECTIBLE
95 Giuseppe
Mascarello & Figlio
Barolo Monprivato
2011 $150
ITALY This is expressive,
with alluring cherry,
strawberry, floral and
mineral flavors building
to the expansive finish. The elegant profile
belies the serious structure underneath.
SWEET DREAMS
From bright and lightly sweet to rich and unctuous, these distinctive dessert wines are perfect
at the end of a meal. Different grape varieties
and production methods make
for a range of styles and flavors
to explore. Each of these wines
packs serious concentration, so
a little goes a long way here.
MARQUS DE CCERES
Rioja Crianza 2012 (89,
$15) SMART BUY Black
cherry, plum, vanilla,
spice; generous, lively
SPECTATOR
SELECTIONS
SMART BUY
93 Bodegas
La Emperatriz
Rioja Finca
La Emperatriz
Crianza 2010 $22
SPAIN Fresh and
focused, this red delivers black cherry,
licorice, black olive, tea and smoke flavors
that mingle harmoniously.
BEST VALUE
87 Ca Furlan
Extra Dry
Prosecco
Cuve Beatrice
NV $10
ITALY Balanced and lightly juicy, this creamy
Prosecco offers textbook notes of white
peach, almond skin and orchard blossom.
JAMES LAUBE
GREG GORMAN
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
In his blogs, James Laube shares updates from his recent tastings and visits
with winemakers, and discusses hot-button issues in the wine industry. Join
the conversation with other members at www.winespectator.com/laube.
MATT KRAMER
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
;fekd`jjDXkkBiXd\ijN\Y$\oZclj`m\\jjXpjXe[c`m\cpfec`e\[`jZljj`fejXk
www.winespectator.com/kramer%Fecpd\dY\ijdXpgfjkZfdd\ekj#Ylk
all visitors may read them.)
JAMES MOLESWORT H
hen it comes to
tasting wines for
review, Wine
Spectator editors
adhere to a particular methodology: single blind tasting.
Our mission is similar to a courtroom
jurys: to arrive at a fair and objective
verdict. So, as in a courtroom, certain
facts are permitted, while other information is not. In our tastings, editors
are told the vintage, appellation and
varietal of the wine, but not the producer or price. We feel this removes the
most powerful sources of bias and gives
each wine an equal opportunity to show
its best. Our goal is to provide you, the
reader, with the fairest and most objective wine reviews possible.
But there are many in the wine
trade who question the validity, or the
usefulness, of blind tasting. Some argue
that blind tasting favors fruit-forward
wines or lavishly oaked versions, while
more tannic/backward or lighter/elegant wines are at a disadvantage. Others think that having a wines story at
handwho made it, how, and the philosophy behind it allis crucial to evaluating a wine. Then
there are critics who simply assert that blind tasting isnt necessary for them because they are honest and unbiased.
We wanted to know what our readers think about blind tasting. So we recently conducted an online survey that asked the
following question: When you are considering wine reviews,
how important is it to you that the scores and notes come from
blind tastings? We asked poll-takers to select from one of four
choices in answering:
a) Blind tasting is critical, because its the only way to guarantee fairness.
b) Blind tasting is useful, but if the taster is experienced, its
not necessary.
c) Blind tasting is a drawback, because the story behind the
wine is also important.
d) Every tasting is subjective, so I buy on a wines reputation
and price.
In my opinion, the strongest argument against blind tasting is the assertion that the methodology itself has
certain structural biases built into it.
This is where experience counts.
If the taster has tasted widely, and
can remove his or her personal preference for a particular style and focus
simply on quality, then character and
ageability can be discerned whether
wines are powerful or elegant, tannic
or soft, fruit-forward or minerally.
Gaining that crucial experience requires more than just tasting wine after
wine in an antiseptic room. It comes
from tasting wines at every stage of
their evolution. It comes from kicking
the dirt in vineyards with winemakers,
seeing their efforts firsthand and letting
them explain the how and why of what
they do. This context is invaluable, and
we rely on it heavily in understanding
where a wine comes from and how it
might evolve. Yes, understanding the
stories behind wines is important in developing the ability to evaluate them.
But the story of a wine, however
cool, doesnt determine the wines ultimate quality. And, if you like the story, thats a powerful incentive to like the wine. Thats why we blind the taster, so the
narrative doesnt influence our judgment.
As for the just trust me, Im not biased approach, well, it
may be honestly believed. But study after study has shown that
label bias existsperhaps magnified in inexperienced tasters versus more experienced ones, but exist it does. When you know
what youre tasting, the nearly inevitable result is that the grand
cru is better than the premier cru, which is better than the village
wine. If that were always true, why would you need independent
critics? You could just label-drink your way through life.
I feel if Im to be as independent and objective a wine writer
as humanly possible, tasting blind is crucial. At Wine Spectator,
we report on (not for) the industry because we report to consumers. Being objective is at the heart of that important distinction.
The result of the survey? A landslide. Nearly 80 percent of respondents agreed that blind tasting is critical to ensure fairness in
wine reviews. Just 12 percent felt it was useful but not necessary.
Even fewer chose the other two options. You can access the survey
and still cast a vote at www.winespectator.com/blindtastingpoll.
Senior editor James Molesworth has been with Wine Spectator since 1997.
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
In his blogs, James Molesworth shares updates from his recent tastings and
visits with winemakers, tries out different wine pairings and more. Join the
conversation with other members at www.winespectator.com/molesworth.
DAVID YELLEN
If Im to be as independent
and objective a wine writer
as humanly possible,
blind tasting is crucial.
&
S T I NG
T R U D I E S
TUSCAN
Adventure
B
B Y R O B E R T C A M U TO
P H OTO G R A P H S B Y S A N D R O M I C H A H E L L E S
PREVIOUS PAGE: STYLIST, LUDOVICA NANNI; HAIR, ALAIN PICHON, MAKEUP: LUCIANO SQUEO; SHIRT AND JEANS, STELLA McCARTNEY
At Il Palagio, the Tuscan villa he owns with his wife, Trudie Styler, Sting performs a song by his iconic former band, the Police, which is still revered for its transporting live sets.
for Stings fortune, estimated at $300 million. But Sting and Styler
are forging ahead.
I think in some ways its a pejorative: celebrity wine. Because
there is so much of it, Sting says. We havent been here for generations. But we are serious. We are committed.
When Sting and Styler bought Il Palagio nearly 20 years ago, they were charmed by the historic villa and pastoral surrounds. They had no idea they were about to become vintners.
continued their search for real estate in central Tuscany, which has
been nicknamed Chiantishire for the number of English property
owners and visitors.
The search ended at the gates of Il Palagio, then owned by the
cash-strapped aristocrat Duke Simone Velluti Zati di San Clemente. Sting remembers being struck by the entrance of the
estatea mile-long alley of Tuscan cypresses that leads up through
vineyards to the Renaissance villa and gardens. He and Styler
walked through Il Palagios acres of woods and swam in one of
five 1950s-era man-made lakes.
The house was kind of falling down, but the rooms were livable, Sting says. We knew it needed a lot of work. But the clincher
for me was the wine. The duke said to me, Would you like to taste
some of the wine? I said, Sure, and tasted it, and, wow. I said,
Okay, well buy it.
We bought it for a song, Sting says dryly. He reports that the
purchase price of the villa, then 270 acres, was 6.2 billion Italian
liras, which at the time was roughly equivalent to $3.5 million.
Maybe two songs.
The couple began restoring the labyrinthine house and outbuildings and introduced organic methods to the vineyards. They kept
on the longtime estate manager, Paolo Rossi, who was born at Il
Palagio and who comes from a centuries-old Tuscan family. But
they were disappointed when the following harvest produced lackluster wines, with rough, bitter edges.
One day about 18 months later, I said to Paolo, Our wine doesnt
48 N@E< JG<:K8KFI 8GI@C *'# )'(-
taste as good as the day the duke gave it to me, Sting recalls.
And Paolo said, S, Sting, the wine the duke gave you was not
our wine.
Clockwise from top left: stainless-steel tanks at Il Palagios winery; the villas cabana and giant chess board; an olive grove on the grounds; the estate vineyards
ting and Styler met in London in the early 1980s. She was
an actress with the Royal Shakespeare Company, and he
was living with his first wife, actress Frances Tomelty.
Sting and Tomelty divorced, and he and Styler struck
up a relationship, bearing four children between 1984 and 1995.
The couple married in 1992, some years after they had become the
faces of the Rainforest Foundation, an organization they founded
to support indigenous peoples in rain forest areas.
In the 1990s, Styler started Xingu Films, which produces documentaries and art house films. She is also directing and producing
the upcoming film Freak Show, based on the novel by James St. James
and starring Bette Midler, Abigail Breslin and Alex Lawther.
Styler grew up in the English countryside. Her father was a farm
Sting began to realize that the bottles of wine left in his concert
dressing rooms by music promoters shouldnt be ignored.
I had been oblivious, he recalls. What they were leaving was
Chteauneuf-du-Pape, incredible Burgundies, and Margaux and
Ptrus. And Id left it for my road crew. I said, Take it. I dont
drink wine.
Danny Quatrochi, Stings longtime personal bass and guitar technician (and author of the well-received photo book Police Confidential) gathered up those bottles, became a connoisseur and told
Sting what he was missing. Once I realized what the promoters
were giving me was actually good wine, I started drinking it, Sting
laughs. I went straight to the top wines, and I got spoiled.
He also found that wine provided an antidote to his grueling
tour schedule. I have so much adrenaline going through my system after being on stage, he says. I find a glass of red wine brings
me back to earth and I find my rhythm.
Il Palagios wine team comprises co-winemaker and vineyard manager Daniel ODonnell (far left), winemaking consultant Paolo Caciorgna, and estate manager Paolo Rossi (right).
York went to work immediately with Rossi and the estate team,
replanting 28 acres of vines between 2000 and 2002, first adding
sorely needed drainage and then composting and nurturing soils.
For a couple of years, it looked like a war zone down there, remembers Sting, who says he and Styler didnt influence the mix of
international and Tuscan grapes, led by Sangiovese. We left it up
to the experts, he says.
Most of Il Palagios vineyards climb its dominant southeastfacing hillside, with Merlot and Cabernet at the top, Sangiovese
in the middle, and Colorino and an assortment of other varieties
at the base. An adjacent 5-acre hillside called La Torre produces
the estates most prized Sangiovese, which provides the base for
the Sister Moon bottling, named for a Sting song and as a nod to
biodynamic moon-cycle farming.
Sting and Styler report that in 2004, they paid the equivalent
of more than $7 million for about 520 neighboring acres, which
included the ruins of nine farmhouses and 42 acres of largely abandoned vineyards in an area the team commonly refers to by the
name of the horse ranch next doorVecchio Texas.
In 2007, York recruited Paolo Caciorgna, who oversees winemaking at a number of small Italian estates, including the stellar
Montalcino producer La Serena, as winemaking consultant. Caciorgna modernized Il Palagios winery with temperature-controlled
steel tanks set outdoors to replace old concrete vats, new wood
barrels to replace the antique chestnut casks, and sorting tables to
select harvested fruit. The new team also introduced green harvesting to improve ripening and complexity in the vineyards.
Throwing grapes on the ground did not set well with the locals, says Sting, who compares the technique to editing music.
Only when they tasted the wine did they understand.
The powerful 2007 vintage served as the debut of Sister Moon,
a 4,166-case Sangiovese-based blend, which Caciorgna calls the
highest expression of the estate. Released in 2010, it earned 93
points in a Wine Spectator blind tasting and was called a polished
8GI@C *'# )'(- N@E< JG<:K8KFI 53
the vineyards had been suffering from mildew and mold, partly because Yorks approach favored herbal tea treatments and restricted
the use of organic copper and sulfur. It was sometimes difficult to
l Palagio has become a gathering place. When its not filled
obtain good quality, Rossi says.
with Stings six adult children and their families, the esWhile Il Palagio still uses some biodynamic methods, such as
tate often hosts a changing salon of friends, musicians, acfertilization using only cover crops, it has abandoned others, like
tors, film and theater producers and directors, philanthropists,
the tea treatments. Much of biodynamics, ODonnell says, has
and intellectuals.
nothing to do with winemaking. I dont subscribe to it.
The farm produce is worked into elaborate, fresh gluten-free
ODonnell also saw Il Palagios vineyard production as too low
meals prepared by Sting and Stylers gifted personal chef, Joe
he says it was as little as 1.2 tons of fruit per acre. Believing the
Sponzo. Bottles of the house wine circulate freely.
estate could boost production with more consistently ripe and
For me its a place to think, to get inspired, to bring people,
healthy grapes, he changed the pruning techniques last year, optSting says. Wine is part of the cross-pollination of ideas.
ing for traditional spur-cordon pruning instead of the short prunThe musician recorded songs for five albums in the attic studio,
ing used previously. That detail, ODonnell believes, will allow
sometimes wandering into the winery to enjoy the echo while
for better canopy management, improved
singing and playing guitar. I dont know if
air flow and higher production without sacit has any effect on the wine, he says.
rificing quality. ODonnell has targeted proBut the wine has clearly had an effect on
duction levels of 2.4 tons per acrestill well
him. One evening during the week of the
below the legal limit in Chianti of 3.6 tons
party at the farm store, Sting, Styler and their
per acre.
wine team meet in the garden for a vertical
Were losing our assnobodys making
tasting of six vintages of Sister Moon.
any money here, ODonnell nearly shouts
Quickly, Sting is dismayed to see the tastas he stands in a vineyard one morning. It
ers pouring out leftover wine between vinwould be awesome at some point if we broke
tages. The northern European in me cant
even. I know that would make Sting happy.
accept pouring out wine like that, he says.
ODonnells biggest potential contribuPeripatetic is the word the performer
has often used to describe his migratory life.
tion to Il Palagios bottom line is a wine
It is also a fitting way to describe Sting and
called Message in a Bottle. A SangioveseStylers eclectic wine tastes.
based blend of estate and purchased wines,
Styler prefers whites and enthusiastically
it debuted with the 2011 vintage in an
discusses the wines shes enjoyed in her trav8,333-case release and retailed for $20.
els, from Tasmanian Rieslings to Polands
The wine is marketed under a sister laAdoria Vineyard Chardonnay. She talks of
bel, Il Palagio Ltd.; ODonnell believes it
her love of Montrachet and remembers bewill provide more visibility for the estateZ
ing inspired by a conversation with Burgrown wines, which are now labeled Tenuta
gundy winemaker Anne-Claude Leflaive
Il Palagio.
during a dinner hosted by Prince Charles.
We didnt know about the ngociant
Sting, a red wine lover, doesnt record such details. He has enmodel, Sting says. Then we realized everyone else was doing it.
joyed bottles from Burgundys Domaine de la Romane-Conti
I dont think [York] would have wanted it.
and Bordeaux first-growths but says that he now opts for BrunelIn the spring of 2013, ODonnell and Caciorgna tasted hundreds
los and Barolos.
of red wine samples from the 2011 vintage made at neighboring esI prefer Italian wine now, he says. It may just be loyalty to my
tates and cooperatives, settling on a few for blending. We looked
people since we bought Il Palagio. I feel we have a stake in the Italfor interesting wines, and we found wines that matched very well
ian economy.
with the textures and temperament of Il Palagio, ODonnell says.
Though wine has become part of his everyday life, Sting is an
The first edition of Message in a Bottle experienced growing
instinctive taster who hasnt adopted a wine-tasting vocabulary.
pains. It was plagued by shipping and distribution problems and
Im fascinated, when I read a wine review, how they can talk
a lack of recognition. Though the 2011 inventory is now all sold,
about some cherry in it and chocolate and tobacco. I dont have a
no 2012 was made.
palate to identify those things, Sting says. Taste to me is a waveIl Palagio continues to grow, both as an estate and as a brand.
length. Its like listening to Gustave Mahler or Burt Bacharach. Its
Another 42 acres of largely abandoned vineyards are scheduled
all good, but theres a spectrum of intensity.
to be replaced, and ODonnell hopes that with upcoming vinAt Il Palagio, the wine team solicits Stings opinion on each bottages, Message in a Bottle will combine estate grapes with those
tling, sending samples to him wherever he is around the globe.
purchased from contracted organic growers and vinified by CaODonnell says the ultimate compliment from the star is a simple
ciorgna. He also hopes to buy grapes for Caciorgna to vinify a
I can drink that.
white blend.
I can drink wine every day, says Sting. Wine actually makes
We cant just keep buying wine and bottling it, ODonnell
me more of who I am.
says. We have to find the dirt.
STYLIST, LUDOVICA NANNI; HAIR, ALAIN PICHON, MAKEUP: LUCIANO SQUEO; DRESS, DSQUARED2
a
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Proseccoland
7 S PA RKLES7
59
Out on the horizon, about 50 miles south, is Venice, with its famously crowded canals, piazzas and palaces. But here on Cartizze
this Saturday morning, there are no tourists.
Still, guest rooms can be scarce, so its wise to book well in advance, particularly for weekends of the main season, which runs
from April to October. Between winery visits and meals, plan time
for short trips to see other sites, including villas open to the public,
the medieval castle-topped town of Asolo, and the canals and monuments of tiny Vittorio Veneto and of the regional capital, Treviso,
which resembles Venice on a smaller (and less touristy) scale.
Note: We recommend contacting restaurants and hotels in advance
to confirm hours of operation and/or any seasonal closures. When calling the following establishments from North America, dial 011 and then
the telephone number.
Prices in this story have been converted to U.S. dollars using the exchange rate at press time ($1 equals 0.88 euro) and rounded to the
nearest dollar. In the listings below, restaurants take all major credit
cards. All hotel prices are for double rooms and include complimentary
breakfast. The wineries profiled all offer English language visits; make
reservations in advance by e-mail or telephone.
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BY A LI S ON NA PJUS
TASTING REPORT
PROSECCO
Conegliano
Asolo
ity without becoming victims of their own success. As it stands,
AREA
Treviso
fresh and enjoyable examples of Prosecco abound. But, as with any
Trieste
OF
Verona
DETAIL
wine, quality isnt universal, and consumers need to parse the
Venice
offerings carefully. To fully appreciate Prosecco, its also important
VENETO
ASOLO
to recognize it as its own unique categoryits not Champagne,
PROSECCO
SUPERIORE
and it doesnt pretend to be. So enjoy Prosecco as the Italians do,
DOCG
PROSECCO DOC
simply to add a little sparkle to your day.
Senior editor Alison Napjus in Wine Spectators lead taster on Prosecco.
72 N@E< JG<:K8KFI 8GI@C *'# )'(-
Prosecco
TASTING REPORT
PROSECCO
PROSECCO
Quality Guide
7Prosecco DOCG wines will include the words 7The term Rive on the label denotes that the
7
bottles foil.
Prosecco DOCG wines must list a specific subzone, either Asolo, Colli Asolani, Conegliano,
Valdobbiadene DOCG undergo the second fermentation in the bottle. These wines are typically
lower-pressure and very lightly sparkling. In this
case, the label does not list the term superiore,
but it does include the term frizzante.
TOP VALUES
TOP WINES
WINE
SCORE
PRICE
90
$34
Well-knit and balanced, with lively acidity backing the flavors of ripe
fig, juicy green pear, ground ginger, stone and slivered almond.
90
$45
Fine and creamy, with rich notes of glazed apricot, salted almond skin
and lemon parfait, this is accented by a hint of guava.
$26
$53
$35
$35
Lime sorbet, poached peach, Thai basil and verbena notes are set on
a soft and creamy mousse.
$30
TIZIANODry Prosecco NV
89
GANCIADry Prosecco NV
88
88
$21
This fresh, floral Prosecco shows fine balance. The flavors of white
peach, jasmine, star anise and pear are bright and expressive.
87
$10
87
$17
87
$14
87
$13
86
$14
86
$14
86
$13
86
$15
85
$13
$26
88
$20
$18
A well-spiced Prosecco, with ripe green pear and plum fruit layered
with crisp acidity.
88
$18
Fagher NV
This is creamy and well-knit, with juicy acidity balancing rich flavors of
creamed almond, green melon, candied ginger and lemon meringue.
88
Balanced and lightly juicy, this creamy Prosecco offers textbook notes
of white peach, almond skin and orchard blossom.
LE COLTUREBrut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore
Superiore Cartizze NV
PRICE
Vigna La Rivetta NV
SCORE
Prosecco Superiore NV
WINE
VALDOBrut Prosecco NV
Crisp and stony, with floral, white peach and slivered almond notes
riding the lively bead.
CHALLENGE
By Bruce Sanderson
Photograph By George Barberis
TASTING REPORT
MAJOR WINE
REGIONS OF PIEDMONT
Casale
Po
Monferrato
A26
Monferrato DOC
A21
PIEDMONT
Alessandria
A21
o
Tanar
Asti
Sp
ig
no
A33
Roero
DOCG
o
Tanar
Alba
Barolo
DOCG
Asti DOCG
Barbaresco
DOCG
Ovada
Langhe
DOC
Gavi
DOCG
Monferrato DOC
A26
Dogliani DOCG
N
Italy
AREA OF
DETAIL
'km
TASTING REPORT
PIEDMONT
Dogliani San Luigi 2014 (90, $22) and Peccheninos Dogliani San
Luigi 2014 (88, $22) are the years best wines.
Recent vintages of Barbera are also slightly off the mark due to
the difficult growing conditions in both 2014 and 2013, yet this
abundant grape still delivers plenty of delicious wines. Of the 125
Vineyards in the Serralunga dAlba commune contributed more than two dozen outstanding 2011 Nebbiolos to this report, including the top-scoring Massolino Barolo Margheria.
At Vietti, owner and winemaker Luca Currado bottles a range of Piedmont reds, from
cru Barolos to top values such as his Barbera dAsti Tre Vigne 2013.
TASTING REPORT
PIEDMONT
ALESSANDRO VECCHI
94
2010
97
A cool growing season and ideal weather before harvest; pure, Hold
elegant and structured reds, with fine potential for aging
2009
92
Drink or hold
2008
94
Hold
2007
95
Drink or hold
2006
95
Drink or hold
2005
91
Drink
2004
94
Drink or hold
2003
88
Drink or hold
Drink or hold
Notable older vintages: 1999, 1996, 1990, 1989, 1982, 1974, 1971, 1967, 1964, 1961, 1958
A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling; many wines of the vintage
not yet reviewed.
Vintage ratings 95-100, classic; 90-94, outstanding; 85-89, very good; 80-84, good; 75-79, mediocre; 50-74, not
recommendedDrinkability: NYR means the vintage has not yet been released; drink means most of the wines of the
vintage are ready to drink; hold means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature; past peak means most of
the wines are declining rather than improving.
TASTING REPORT
PIEDMONT
TOP WINES
WINE
SCORE
PRICE
97
$675
96
$99
95
$80
95
$67
95
$101
95
$76
95
$87
95
$150
95
$135
95
95
95
94
94
93
$37
91
$28
90
$26
90
$25
90
$23
90
$22
90
$18
90
$14
89
$18
89
$17
88
$18
88
$15
88
$16
88
$17
$75
MASSOLINODolcetto dAlba 2014
Expressive notes of cherry and blackberry grace this firm, intense red.
94
$125
MARZIANO ABBONADogliani San Luigi 2014
$53
FONTANAFREDDARoero Arneis Pradalupo 2014
Harmonious, offering peach, apple and light citrus aromas and flavors.
94
$300
DANTE RIVETTIBarbera dAlba Mara 2012
Vibrant, with tense structure and blackberry and black currant notes.
94
$90
LA GIUSTINIANAGavi Lugarara 2014
Crisp and tangy, boasting lemon and apple, with a hint of stone.
94
$225
VIETTIBarbera dAsti Tre Vigne 2013
Black cherry and blackberry flavors show vanilla and resin hints.
94
$60
MARCHESI DI BAROLOBarbera dAlba Ruvei 2013
$90
GIACOMO GRIMALDIDolcetto dAlba 2014
Leather, tar and spice notes trump the dried cherry and berry flavors.
$38
93
PRICE
$82
This is loaded with cherry, strawberry, herb, licorice and mineral notes.
WINE
A solid structure grips the cherry, licorice, tobacco and stone flavors.
RENATO CORINOBarolo Arborina 2011
SCORE
TOP VALUES
$330
$70
94
$45
94
$165
Firm and salty, with cherry, strawberry, mineral and tobacco notes.
CASCINA ADELAIDEBarolo Baudana 2011
$90
A cherry- and floral-scented red, with tar, leather and spice shadings.
CAVIOLABarolo Sottocastello di Novello 2010
94
Intense and vibrant, offering cherry, floral, tea and underbrush flavors.
LUIGI BAUDANABarolo Baudana 2011
$95
$65
Tight and racy, this exhibits cherry, raspberry, floral and tar flavors.
G.D. VAJRABarolo Bricco delle Viole 2011
94
Offers a mix of eucalyptus, cherry, leafy and tar aromas and flavors.
Licorice, leather, tar and tobacco flavors show in this balanced red.
SOTTIMANOBarbaresco Riserva 2010
$135
Notes of rose, cherry, licorice and tar are the hallmarks of this firm red.
SCHIAVENZABarolo Prap 2011
94
$52
Powerful, with vanilla, coconut, plum, black cherry and tar flavors.
A mix of cherry, wild rosemary and sage notes converge in this red.
GIUSEPPE MASCARELLO & FIGLIOBarolo Monprivato 2011
94
Muscular, with menthol and eucalyptus notes shading the cherry core.
$66
Rich and opulent, with cherry, raspberry, floral and sweet spice notes.
ELVIO COGNOBarolo Ravera 2011
94
Complex and maturing, with cherry, leather, tobacco and spice flavors.
MICHELE CHIARLOBarolo Cannubi 2011
PRICE
Vibrant and firmly structured, with woodsy aromas and a cherry core.
CASCINA LUISINBarolo Lon 2010
SCORE
Bright, with cherry and strawberry flavors, this red is lacy and elegant.
AZELIABarolo Margheria 2011
WINE
This bright red bursts with blackberry and black currant flavors.
94
$70
PICO MACCARIOBarbera dAsti Lavignone 2014
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100 GREAT VALUES
SAM BREWSTER
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berry and cedary oak avors, complemented by
gravelly tannins.
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B ORDEAUX
BENCHMARK CHABLIS
87 | $17 | Chateau Ste. Michelle | Chardonnay Columbia Valley Indian Wells 2014
WASHINGTON Bright and sleek, offering pretty
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South Africa
If You Like
Chteauneuf-du-Pape
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87 | $12 | Paringa | Shiraz South Australia 2014 | AUSTRALIA Firm, with some rustic
A u s t ra l i a
89 | $18 | Clos Henri | Pinot Noir Marlborough Petit Clos 2014 | NEW ZEALAND
Floral and fragrant, with dried lavender and rose
petal nuances that lead to bright, juicy avors of
wild strawberry and cherry.
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Red Burgundy
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BENCHMARK
RED BURGUNDY
89 | $20 | Duck Pond | Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2014 | OREGON Crisp in texture
and generous in avor, with dark berry and plum
notes on a polished frame.
88 | $20 | David Hill | Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2012 | OREGON Firm, with chewy
tannins around a core of black currant and plum
avors, pointing into the expressive nish.
BENCHMARK SANCERRE
91 | $18 | Casey Flat Ranch | Sauvignon Blanc Capay Valley 2014 | CALIFORNIA
California 2014 | CALIFORNIA Lithe and graceful, with fragrant orange blossom, ruby grapefruit
and white peach avors that are fresh and lively.
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ANDREA JOHNSON
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
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87 | $20 | Boedecker | Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2013 | OREGON Brash and lively,
Bright and sleek, with tangy balance and refreshing herbal overtones to the pear and melon fruit,
nishing with zip.
Marlborough Flight Song 2014 | NEW ZEALAND Lime and grapefruit avors show fresh
Blanc Horse Heaven Hills H3 2014 | WASHINGTON Light and refreshing, sleek and open-
Wa s h i n g t o n
RISK REWARD
JEFF AMES CHARTS HIS OWN ROUTE TO WINEMAKING SUCCESS
BY AARON
ROMANO
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
JESSAMYN HARRIS
99
"For all the wines I make, I of course want them to all taste great. but i also want
them to taste like where they came from." JEFF AMES
Ames. From then on, he knew winemaking was his calling.
Ames. Kenward disagrees. Looking back, the wines that weve
Unfortunately, Penner-Ash couldnt keep him on full-time, so
made together have proven that maybe the gamble wasnt really a
after his first harvest he returned to Memphis to work at the liquor
gamble after all, he says.
store again. Undeterred, Ames saved money and drove across the
As winemaker for Tor, Ames now has the luxury of working
country again, this time to Napa.
with some of Napa Valleys best vineyards, including Oakvilles
Ames arrived in Napa in April 1999. I had no bed, no couch,
Beckstoffer To Kalon and Howell Mountains Cimarossa VineI slept on egg-crate foam for the first six months before my mom
yards. And hes a stickler for making sure the wines express their
visited and bought me a futon, he says. But Ames insists hes alsite foremost, rather than a particular winemaking style.
ways been comfortable living modestly, an arrangement that allows
For all the wines I make, I of course want them to all taste great.
him to focus on work.
Ames took on various jobs, from freelance wine writing to online wine auctions
to working in tasting rooms. He started
attending tasting groups and wine pick-up
parties. My natural tendency is to be not
super social and outgoing, he admits.
Still, whatever interpersonal shortcomings he thought he had dont show today;
hes effusively chatty, with a mild-natured
disposition that makes him easy to like.
His fortunes improved when he met
Thomas Brown, then the winemaker for
Turley, at a party. Ames, itching to get
back into production, learned that Brown
was looking to leave Turley. Brown
brought on Ames to work with several of
his projects for the 2001 harvest, including stints at Schrader, Maybach, Outpost
and Tor.
Getting that first winery job is hard
because nobody wants to train you, says
Ames, expressing gratitude that Brown
took a chance on him despite his lack of
experience. Ames worked harvest, focusing all of his efforts on learning how to
make wine.
I saw Jeff working his butt off, recalls
Tor Kenward, of Tor Kenward Family
Wines. We were experimenting with
whole-cluster for our Rhne wines, but
didnt have the right equipment, so Jeff
did it completely by hand and foot. [He]
nearly broke his back trying to make
those wines.
Things started falling into place for
Ames in 2003. After just two harvests,
he took over as Tors full-time winemaker, at age 31. It was a gamble, but
all things are, says Kenward. Once Ames
got his chance, he worked hard, moved
quickly and never looked back. If I were Ames with Tor Kenward, one of the upstart vintners early winemaking mentors in California. Impressed by Ames work
Tor, I wouldnt have kept me on, jokes ethic, Kenward offered him a full-time job as Tors winemaker, exposing his protg to some of the states best vineyards.
8GI@C *'# )'(- N@E< JG<:K8KFI 103
UNDER THE
VOLC NO
wryly. Roman wine had leather in it, had resin in it, had pitch in
it, amphora god-knows-what. Its just crazy to think what went
through a Roman wine before it made it to a cup.
But why would the Campanians deliver 8,000 gallons of wine to
a storage facility situated two-thirds of a mile from the shore and
fill up containers that each required two men to carry?
It turned out they didnt. One of the researchers dropped coring
tubes into the earth behind Oplontis B to take soil samples, and
up came ancient ocean sediment: In A.D. 79, Villa B was right on
the water. Indeed, a closer study of the skeletons revealed theyd
been dusted with sand. In the carnage, someone had lost a seal ring
bearing the inscription L.CRAS.TERT. on one side. On the back
of the band, theres a little engraving of a wine cup.
Now, a picture emerged of Oplontis B in the flush of activity,
just before the world went dark. Villas small and grand grew winegrapes, to be sent off to crushpads. Archaeologists in Pompeii partnered in the 90s with Campanian winery Mastroberardino on a
Winemaker Sabrine Rodems shares Thomas enthusiasm for envelope-pushing projects, like the archaeologically
inspired vinification of wine in earthenware dolia, and keeps things on track at Wrath year-round.
Wrath Wines estate vineyard, called San Saba, grows Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah, as well as some new plantings of the Campanian grape Falanghina.
Thomas published his most recent conclusions in the 2015 Journal of Roman Archaeology (Vol. 28), in a paper titled Oplontis B:
A center for the distribution and export of Vesuvian wine. In
May of this year, he returns to the site; one of his hopes is to find
preserved organic grape material that might be used to identify
the type of wine the Campanians were making. If it came back
Falanghina, no one would believe me, he laughs.
Already, though, the formerly obscure site without any fancy
frescoes or fountains has added a page to the greater saga of wine
history. Villa B is this massive document of the Roman world thats
been left untouched for many years, a document on how trade happens and how wine moves around, on the value of consumption,
on what Pompeii means in the wine world. Its speaking to the
tastes and needs of the Roman Empire near its apex.
Thomas ruminates on his place in it all. Archaeology and winemaking, Ive always said the common threadother than dirtis
patience. Theyre both really slow endeavors. But the element of
terroir has also revealed itself to Thomas in both fields. In one
Roman town, they might mark vases with the imprint of a leaping stag; down the road, same vase, but decorated with the visage
of Apollo instead. I find that parallel in wine, those kinds of regional nuances and continuities, he observes. That, and the
potential to discover something unique, surprising, even transformative, down in the dirt.
Buying Guide
Cable cars provide transport over the steep hillside vineyards of Via Santa Cruz, in the Lolol region of Chiles Colchagua Valley.
Spectator Selections
117 Highly Recommended
117 :fcc\Zk`Yc\j
BY THE NUMBERS
The April 30 Buying Guide features 13 classic
wines and nearly 400 outstanding wines from
among reviews of more than 600 new releases.
118 JdXik9lpj
121 =iXeZ\#>\idXep
119 9\jkMXcl\j
125 @kXcp
118 8Yflkk_\9lp`e^>l`[\
134 Gfikl^Xc#Jflk_8]i`ZX
137 JgX`e
139 :Xc`]fie`X
141 NXj_`e^kfe
S P E C TATO R S E L E C T I O N S
Highly Recommended
The issues most impressive wines. Includes
top-scorers and wines that represent optimal
purchases based on their combination of score,
price and availability.
96
94
95
and dried fig notes are rich and ripe in this well-knit red.
Defined by sleek tannins, this is full-bodied and dense,
but the notes of fruit, dried thyme, leather, bergamot and
coffee are accessible and aromatic, lingering on the lasting, minerally finish. Drink now through 2026. 250 cases
made.A.N.
95
94
93
Collectibles
Wines that will improve most from additional
bottle age and that show the greatest potential to
gain in value.
94
94
aromatic, but rich and layered, this offers excellent density and depth, with fine-grained tannic grip and a long,
persistent finish that keeps flashing the core flavors. Drink
now through 2020. 1,350 cases made.J.L.
97
Smart Buys
Wines that deliver fine character at affordable
prices and that are broadly available.
his Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world and the results of special tastings
reported on in greater depth elsewhere in the issue.
Complete tasting notes are provided for all new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator
100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the
taster. Additional reviews appear on our website, www.winespectator.com.
Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote
the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. If no reviewers initials appear, the wine was
tasted by a panel of Wine Spectator editors.
James Laube
Harvey Steiman
Thomas Matthews
Kim Marcus
Bruce Sanderson
James Molesworth
MaryAnn Worobiec
Alison Napjus
Tim Fish
Gillian Sciaretta
California
Australia, Oregon, Washington
Spain
Argentina, Austria, Chile, Germany, Portugal
Burgundy, Italy
Bordeaux, Loire Valley, Rhne Valley, South Africa
Australia, California, New Zealand
Alsace, Beaujolais, Champagne, Italy
California
France
93
90
90
Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price. When the suggested retail price is not available, we publish the
prevailing wholesale price with a standard markup added. Actual retail prices may vary.
Wines are chosen for tasting from among those sent to our offices for review and those purchased at retail.
Because we for the most part serve a U.S. audience, we prefer to review wines that are widely available there.
90
A NOBLE
COMMITMENT
TO Q UALI T Y
SINCE 1497
89
are framed by sweet vanilla and spicy notes in this generous red. Orange peel acidity keeps this lively, with light,
firm tannins imparting structure. Drink now through 2022.
90,000 cases imported.T.M.
89
87
89
focused version, with a smoky streak of mineral underscoring the flavors of fresh-cut pear, mandarin orange peel,
vanilla biscuit and pickled ginger. Drink now through
2018. 166,660 cases made.A.N.
Best Values
Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide
distribution.
87
91
86
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
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Ypn`e\ip#n`e\eXd\#i\^`fe#mXi`\kp#m`ekX^\#gi`Z\Xe[
jZfi\%=`e[`kXkwww.winespectator.com/wine.
www.deutschfamily.com
2016 Imported by Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY 10604.
Enjoy Our Quality Responsibly.
AUSTRALIA
Red
94
91
93
93
TwelftreeGrenache Barossa Valley Vinegrove Greenock 2013 $67 A vibrant, juicy, fragrant
93
PERFECTION PERFECTED!
SETTING THE STANDARD, YET AGAIN.
93
92
An Approach To RelaxationGrenache
Barossa Valley Sucette 2014 $59 Distinctively peppery, mingling fresh-cracked black and white pepper with
bright and tangy pomegranate flavors. Has an elegant,
polished air. The aromatics persist on the finish. Drink
now through 2030. 350 cases made.M.W.
RIESLING/ZINFANDEL
YalumbaGrenache Barossa The TriCentenary 2011 $54 Expressive, vivid, aromatic and
peppery, with an elegant approach to the spicy wild blackberry flavors at the core. The tannins gain some traction
on the long, effusive finish. Drink now through 2030. 200
cases imported.M.W.
91
92
92
92
92
TwelftreeGrenache McLaren Vale Copperview Onkaparinga Gorge 2013 $67 There are plenty
OAKED CHARDONNAY
CHILE
90 Kingston
89
89
beefy notes in this rich, savory style. Dried berry and cherry
tart flavors dominate, featuring accents of cream. Cocoa
powder details linger on the fresh finish. Drink now
through 2018. 16,700 cases made.K.M.
89
88
88
87
86
$85 Black
cherry and violet aromas and flavors are singed by smoke
and spice notes in this sleek, linear red. Nicely integrated
and firm on the finish, with room to grow. Best from 2018
through 2027. 300 cases made.B.S.
$85
92
94
94
$335
93
93
91
the citrus and apple notes to the background for now, yet
this white offers concentration and staying power. Balanced,
vibrant and long, this just needs a little time to integrate.
Best from 2017 through 2023. 100 cases imported.B.S.
91
93
93
93 Domaine Perrot-MinotCharmes-Chambertin 2013 $450 A smooth, cherry- and blueberryinfused red, with ample mineral and spice accents for
support. Balanced, with a cohesive structure and fine
length. Best from 2018 through 2030. 175 cases made.B.S.
94
93
FRANCE
FRANCE
$132
92
FRANCE
Burgundy / Cte de Nuits /
Gevrey-Chambertin
93
93
Louis JadotGevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques 2013 $208 Intense and powerful, with plum,
90 Chanson
90 Domaine
$80
92
Jean-Claude BoissetGevrey-Chambertin
2013 $74 A lavish version, with a velvety texture that
92
92
92
Chteau de MarsannayGevrey-Chambertin
2013 $85 A brooding monolith of a red, with reticent
cherry, currant and strawberry flavors. Well-structured
and dense, this features an austere, chalky finish. Best
from 2019 through 2030. 100 cases imported.B.S.
92
Domaine Perrot-MinotGevrey-Chambertin
2013 $110 A linear profile sets the stage for cherry,
currant and herbal flavors in this silky, vibrant red. Tightens up on the finish, where the long mineral aftertaste
reigns. Best from 2017 through 2025. 241 cases made.B.S.
91
FRANCE
Burgundy / Cte de Nuits /
Other Red
93
93
93
91
92
DAVID CROIX
Winemaker
91
92
91
$75
90 Marchand-Grillot
& FilsMorey-St.-Denis
2013 $52 Black cherry, raspberry, spice and smoke aro-
mas and flavors are the hallmarks of this elegant red. Beautifully balanced, with a texture of raw silk and a persistent
finish. Drink now through 2025. 250 cases made.B.S.
90 Daniel
FRANCE
Languedoc-Roussillon
90 Chteau MarisMinervois
La Livinire Les Planels 2012
$25 Theres a freshness behind
the savory spice and meat notes
in this medium-bodied red, with
bright red berry, plum and bitter
chocolate flavors pushing through
midpalate. Grippy tannins define
the zesty, herb-tinged finish. Drink
now through 2018. 1,100 cases
made.G.S.
ROBERT EDEN
Winemaker
87
ine notes lead the way in this vibrant, fresh white. Peach
cream, mineral and candied basil accents mingle on the
lingering finish. Drink now. 120 cases made.G.S.
86
86
has good lemon pith, white peach and sel gris flavors,
showing a light herb echo on the finish. Drink now. 15,000
cases made.J.M.
89
88
87
FRANCE
Rhne
93
91
88
87
with hints of savory and iron. Small in scale, but pure and
chiseled. Gamay. Drink now. 205 cases made.J.M.
FRANCE
Loire
89
87
87
Green olive and savory notes are backed by slightly briskedged cherry fruit, allied to a lightly chalky spine. This
has good typicity but may be a bit too herbal for most
folks. Drink now through 2018. 1,000 cases made.J.M.
88
ing amid the lightly mulled cherry and red currant fruit.
Shows a hint of juniper through the finish. Drink now.
6,650 cases made.J.M.
87
87
86
cherry pie flavors are soft and friendly in feel, with light
violet and anise seed notes adding a touch of range through
the finish. Caladoc, Marselan, Egiodola and Syrah. Drink
now. 6,500 cases made.J.M.
85
FRANCE
Southwest
91
90 Domaine
a lively structure, this full-bodied white bursts with honeysuckle, tangerine, pastry and spice notes, paired with
candied basil and mineral details. Features a lingering,
cream-tinged finish. Drink now through 2020. 1,000 cases
made.G.S.
89
89
89
apple cobbler, hazelnut, dried pineapple and spice, underscored by savory herb details that linger through the clean,
moderate finish. Drink now. 50 cases imported.G.S.
87
85
FRANCE
Other
92
91
91
88
87
GERMANY
Riesling
93
ERNST LOOSEN
Owner & Winemaker
93
92
92
92
91
91
91
and white cherry flavors that are fresh and juicy. Cream
and allspice details carry through on the lush finish, showing notes of wild herb. Drink now through 2030. 400 cases
imported.K.M.
ITALY
Abruzzo
93
91
87
84
ITALY
FriuliVenezia-Giulia
91
Livio FellugaRosazzo
Abbazia di Rosazzo 2013 $50
ANDREA FELLUGA
Owner & Winemaker
88
88
88
87
$90
91
ITALY
Lombardy / Franciacorta
92
92
89
91
ITALY
91
91
Ca del BoscoBrut
Franciacorta 2011 $70
Ground anise, clove and bergamot accents are an aromatic entry point for this sleek and
finely knit sparkler, lacing together notes of Asian spice,
white cherry, chalk and verbena, all carried on the satiny
mousse. Drink now through
2026. 75 cases imported.A.N.
STEFANO CAPELLI
Winemaker
Lombardy / Other
90 Umani
RonchiCastelli
di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva
Classico Plenio 2013 $35
89
91
Richly fruity, with a creamy palate of strawberry shortcake, steeped cherry, candied orange peel, smoky mineral
and baking spice notes wrapped around the sculpted tannins. Juicy finish. Drink now through 2026. 750 cases
made.A.N.
91
91
87
and tangy, while date and dried fig notes provide the richer
side of the profile in this juicy red. Silky tannins and aromatic accents of fresh, loamy earth and cured tobacco
hold sway on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 433
cases made.A.N.
91
A rich
white, with bright acidity enlivening the expressive notes
of blood orange, toast, lemon curd and grapefruit granita.
Offers a sleek, aromatic finish, showing abundant spice
and herb details. Drink now through 2021. 50 cases
imported.A.N.
ITALY
with a silky mix of dried cherry, toast, fig cake and leather.
Offers a lingering, spiced finish. Drink now through 2021.
1,000 cases made.A.N.
87
90 Ca
ITALY
Marche
87
Northeast / Prosecco
AcinumExtra Dry Prosecco NV $13 A bright
and expressive Prosecco, with floral, spice and exotic pineapple and guava fruit set on a fine, creamy bead. Delivers
a fresh, zesty finish. Drink now. 835 cases made.A.N.
84
87
84
layered with bright acidity and a zesty bead in this balanced Prosecco. Drink now. 54,200 cases made.A.N.
83
ITALY
ITALY
86
Northeast / Prosecco /
Conegliano Valdobbiadene
90 Angelo Rebuli & FigliExtra Dry Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore NV $34 Well-knit and
balanced, with lively acidity backing the flavors of ripe
fig, juicy green pear, ground ginger, stone and slivered
almond. Creamy in texture, with a lingering, floral finish.
A textbook example. Drink now through 2019. 40 cases
imported.A.N.
ITALY
Piedmont / Barbaresco
94
green pear and plum fruit layered with crisp acidity and
accents of lemon zest and grated ginger. Moderate finish.
Drink now. 325,000 cases imported.A.N.
86
94
86
86
85
$13
88 BellendaExtra Dry Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Miraval 2015 $19 Fresh
and balanced, featuring a stony undertow and hints of
ground spice and mandarin orange peel accenting flavors
of juicy Dijon pear and sliced almond. Creamy, with a
tangy finish. Drink now through 2018. 15,000 cases
made.A.N.
88
180 viniculturists
tending
to 740 select acres
with their hands,
minds,
and hearts
to produce fine wines
from Piedmont.
88
88
www.vitecolte.it
Barolo, Italy
87
Vite Colte
La Casa in Collina
Barbaresco 12
DOCG
Vite Colte
Paesi Tuoi
Barolo 11
DOCG
Vite Colte
Essenze
Barolo 04
Riserva
DOCG
Vite Colte
La Luna e i Fal
Barbera dAsti
Superiore 13
DOCG
92
92
92
91
ITALY
Piedmont / Barbera
Cerretta 2013 $60 Sweet vanilla and smoke notes
frame the black cherry fruit, while light tannins and lively
acidity provide support. Tangy, with fine length. Drink
now through 2019. 80 cases imported.B.S.
89
88
88
Harmonious, offering sweet cherry, strawberry and licorice flavors, shaded by baking spice notes. Long and polished, with richness and a mineral element on the
aftertaste. Best from 2017 through 2028. 2,000 cases
imported.B.S.
91
87
87
$20
ORNELLA PELISSERO
Owner & Winemaker
ITALY
Piedmont / Barolo
95
$60
95
and floral notes, but also tar, leather, tobacco and underbrush flavors. The dry, chalky finish is long, with elements
of sweet fruit for balance. Best from 2017 through 2026.
417 cases made.B.S.
$71
95
94
93
Rose, strawberry and wild cherry aromas and flavors highlight this delicate yet firmly structured Barolo. Vibrant,
this tightens up by the finish, showing potential for aging.
Fine length. Best from 2018 through 2032. 750 cases
made.B.S.
91 Bruna GrimaldiBarolo
Camilla 2011 $43 A sinewy
style, offering cherry and savory
underbrush notes, this is balanced
between the fruit and structure,
with a lengthy, spicy finish. Best
from 2018 through 2030. 1,000
cases imported.B.S.
91
BRUNA GRIMALDI,
FRANCO FIORINO
& SIMONE FIORINO
Owners & Winemakers
91
This is tight, but also leans toward the dry, tannic side.
The cherry, spice, tar and mineral flavors form a tight
core. Fresh and long, with mouthcoating tannins. Best
from 2019 through 2035. 450 cases made.B.S.
ITALY
91
$43
ITALY
Puglia
91
$50
90 G.D.
90 Tenute
A light-bodied style, this cherry-, strawberry- and floralflavored red is balanced, energetic and mouthwatering.
Long and resonant on the finish, with a chalky feel. Drink
now through 2020. 2,500 cases made.B.S.
di EmraPrimitivo di Manduria
Antica Masseria del Sigillo 2014 $17 See Smart
88
88
88
87
Rich dried
cherry and date fruit is accented by spice, mocha and licorice drop notes in this medium- to full-bodied red. Finely
balanced, with chewy tannins lending grip on the aromatic finish. Negroamaro and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink
now through 2026. 400 cases made.A.N.
89
89
89
$20 Abundant herb and spice notes leap from the glass
Piedmont / White
90 La ScolcaDAntan 2004
88
ITALY
89
88
87
87
86
pear flavors, with a hint of almond. Open, with a moderately long finish. Drink now. 2,500 cases imported.B.S.
$13
88
88
bodied white offers wax and crushed almond notes, layered with yellow plum, saline and apricot flavors. Drink
now through 2019. 2,500 cases made.A.N.
88
87
$10
Theres a sanguine edge to this lightly juicy, mediumbodied red, with hints of leather and spice accenting
the ripe flavors of plumped cherry and wild strawberry.
Features a subtle herbal finish. Drink now through 2018.
1,650 cases made.A.N.
86
ITALY
Sicily / Red
91
91
91
91
$40
Rich and expressive, delivering notes of green olive, rosemary, grilled beef and fig cake set on a silky palate and
framed by supple tannins. This features a lightly juicy,
mocha-laced finish. Drink now through 2021. 13,333 cases
made.A.N.
90 Le
Vigne di EliEtna
Moganazzi - Volta Sciara 2013
$43 Rich and creamy, offering
MARCO DE GRAZIA
Owner
91
89
red offers supple tannins dressed in plum pudding, tartinged smoke, cassis, mocha and spice notes. Well-knit,
with light grip on the juicy finish. Drink now through
2021. 5,000 cases made.A.N.
89
GIAMBATTISTA CILIA
& GIUSTO OCCHIPINTI
Owners & Winemakers
$40
90 Feudo
$41 A
pure beam of wild strawberry flavor shows dried thyme, rose
petal, smoky mineral and star anise hints in this mediumbodied red, with supple tannins on the finish. Nero dAvola.
Drink now through 2021. 11,100 cases made.A.N.
88
86
91
2013 Shiraz
PTS
ITALY
Sicily / White
91
90 DonnafugataContessa
Entellina White
An elegant, medium-bodied
white, with a rich, creamy palate of glazed apple, smoked
hazelnut, apricot tart and lemon parfait. Finely balanced,
this offers a lasting finish, showing accents of toast and
candied ginger. Chardonnay. Drink now through 2022.
2,083 cases made.A.N.
90 Arianna
$24 Fine
and creamy, with a floral overtone and a smoky underpinning to the flavors of glazed apricot, ground cardamom,
almond skin and lemon parfait. Well-knit, presenting a
lingering, mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2021.
292 cases made.A.N.
89
$41
87
86
ITALY
92
92
91
Umbria
$30 Rich and creamy, offering a silky palate of pineapple cream pie, candied ginger, lemon curd and toasted
coconut. Lively acidity provides balance and focus. The
juicy finish echoes spicy mineral notes. Drink now through
2021. 60 cases imported.A.N.
94
91
117.
ITALY
92
92
90 TabarriniMontefalco 2012
$29
A dense,
juicy red, with chalky tannins cloaked in sappy black
cherry, dried thyme, marjoram, fig and bresaola notes.
Burly, with spice and tar accents on the finish. Best from
2019 through 2014. 1,900 cases made.A.N.
88
87
89
A lightly sweet version, with plump, dusty tannins framing flavors of steeped black raspberry, tea rose, spice box
and dark chocolate. Offers a juicy finish of graphite and
spice. Marzemino and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now
through 2019. 250 cases made.A.N.
89
peach, grated ginger and apple blossom notes are underscored by stone and spice in this well-knit, mouthwatering white. This is hard to stop sipping. Drink now through
2019. 2,000 cases imported.A.N.
88
88
notes layered with stone and citrus details. Fresh and easydrinking. Vermentino, Trebbiano and Grechetto. Drink
now. 30,000 cases made.A.N.
ITALY
86
93
86
This fresh, easydrinking red offers a creamy mix of crushed plum, cured
tobacco, star anise and mineral. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Drink now through 2018. 125,000
cases made.A.N.
132 N@E< JG<:K8KFI 8GI@C *'# )'(-
Veneto / Red
AllegriniAmarone della Valpolicella
Classico 2011 $85 A lovely, harmonious red, with
plump and juicy dried cherry and strawberry fruit, abundant aromatic spice and herb notes, and accents of graphite, mocha, mineral and licorice. This really sings on the
palate and keeps on chiming on the supple finish. Drink
now through 2026. 1,300 cases imported.A.N.
91
91
A meaty
red, with an aromatic edge of grilled rosemary to the sanguine mix of dried black currant and black olive flavors.
Medium-bodied, featuring grippy tannins on the lasting,
spiced finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenre. Drink
now through 2026. 2,200 cases made.A.N.
89
88
88
87
ITALY
Other / Red
93
92
92
91
stage for cherry, black currant, cedar, green olive and spice
flavors. Tight, yet elegant and fresh, with a long aftertaste
of spice. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
From Tuscany. Best from 2018 through 2027. 1,250 cases
made.B.S.
91
89
89
88
87
90 CeraudoVal
90 FalescoLazio Montiano 2012 $50 Mediumto full-bodied and well-knit, with an expressive mix of
leather, plumped currant, sandalwood, cocoa powder and
underbrush notes, framed by supple tannins that show
good grip on the aromatic finish. Merlot. Drink now
through 2026. 4,100 cases made.A.N.
90 RuffinoChianti Classico Ducale Oro Riserva
Gran Selezione 2011 $42 A complex red, evoking
cherry, strawberry, tobacco, tar and underbrush aromas
and flavors. Harmonious and detailed, this lingers with
an aftertaste of fruit, earth and woodsy notes. Drink now
through 2023. 25,000 cases imported.B.S.
89
89
89
87
86
$15
ITALY
91
91
page 118.
7KHRQO\
,WDOLDQ:KLWH:LQHRQ
TOP100
2015
88
88
88
87
85
95
95
92
95
94
Aromas and flavors of hazelnut, butterscotch, white chocolate and egg cream are lush and seductive. The elegant
finish echoes with citrus and spice notes, along with plenty
of dried tropical accents. Drink now through 2050. 440
cases made.K.M.
94
94
and lush, this glides across the palate with rich buttercream notes to the flavors of apricot tart, pear compote,
dried mango and pineapple cake. The spicy finish is fresh
and minerally, with a long tail of dried ginger. Drink now.
25 cases imported.K.M.
85
93
and singed orange peel notes are bright and tangy in this
balanced frizzante sipper. Drink now. 20,000 cases
made.A.N.
PORTUGAL
Madeira
97
filled with rich buttery and nutty notes to the dried tropical fruit, apricot and baked apple flavors. Creamy midpalate, with a long, sumptuous finish filled with white
chocolate, citrus zest and mineral accents, delivering hints
of pepper. Drink now through 2040. 60 cases made.K.M.
96
96
96
93
93
93
PORTUGAL
Douro
94
93
PORTUGAL
Powerful and
well-structured, with dried berry, ripe cherry and licorice
flavors. Richly spiced, with plenty of beefy notes midpalate. Finishes with accents of forest floor and chocolate.
Drink now through 2019. 375 cases made.K.M.
Other
90 Quinta
93
90 Quinta
92
92
do PassadouroTouriga Nacional
Douro 2013 $40 A juicy and vibrant red, with notes
of white pepper to the red currant, plum and raspberry
flavors. Accents of dried mint show on the spicy finish,
oozing with dark chocolate details. Drink now through
2018. 50 cases imported.K.M.
90 Quinta da RomaneiraDouro Sino Da Romaneira 2012 $30 A suave red, with meaty accents to the
$70
92
91
91
91
A
ripe and muscular red, featuring plenty of beefy notes to
the roasted plum and dark cherry flavors. Offers a crisp
and pure-tasting finish, with lively minerality and hints
of slate. Drink now through 2020. 2,708 cases made.K.M.
$40
90 Quinta do CrastoDouro
89
buttery notes to the ripe apple, pear and baked peach flavors. Well-structured, showing plenty of zip and a long,
creamy finish accented by lanolin hints. Drink now
through 2019. 7,000 cases made.K.M.
88
88
$15
88
87
87
JORGE, MIGUEL
& TOMS ROQUETTE
Owners
91
91 Casa de SantarDo Reserva 2012 $48 Wellsculpted and powerfully structured, with intense red plum
and red currant flavors flanked by plenty of peppery notes.
The juicy finish resonates with dried fig and juniper berry
hints. Drink now through 2020. 1,540 cases made.K.M.
$80
Shows a flinty note to the flavors of dark plum, dried raspberry and mocha. Interesting shiso leaf accents show midpalate. The finish offers pepper and licorice hints. Drink
now through 2018. 833 cases made.K.M.
91
93
$52
dried raspberry and plum. Minerally notes show midpalate, with slate and spice details on the finish. Drink now.
6,665 cases made.K.M.
88
Features toothsome flavors of almond, mineral and beeswax, matched to notes of dried apple and honeysuckle.
The rich finish delivers hints of spice and smoke. Drink
now through 2018. 22,500 cases made.K.M.
SOUTH AFRICA
Chenin Blanc & Blends
94
and ginger flavors, but the spine shows excellent minerality, with a long, stony feel through the finish. Hints of
quinine, verbena and chamomile add even more range.
A pristine display. Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc,
Clairette Blanche, Viognier, Verdelho, Roussanne, Smillon Gris, Smillon and Palomino. Drink now through
2022. 583 cases made.J.M.
93
93
93
93
93
93
93
Very suave, with lightly mulled plum, cherry and blackberry fruit flavors carried by substantial but silky tannins,
while additional anise, blood orange and incense notes
fill in through the finish. Theres ample flesh here, but
this stays very refined throughout, revealing a mouthwatering echo that hangs on beautifully. Syrah, Grenache,
Cinsault and Touriga Nacional. Drink now through 2022.
433 cases made.J.M.
92
92
87
91
89
88
86
SOUTH AFRICA
SOUTH AFRICA
Other
93
93
$45
92
$45
92
92
honeysuckle note gilding the core of white peach and yellow apple fruit. Offers a breezy, unadorned finish. Drink
now. 4,000 cases imported.J.M.
page 118.
86
85 BoekenhoutskloofCabernet Sauvignon
Coastal Region Porcupine Ridge 2014 $13 A light
ing the way for silky cherry, raspberry and blood orange
fruit flavors. Lingering dried anise, incense and bergamot
notes line the finish. Elegant, but sneakily deep and long.
Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah. Drink now through 2020.
266 cases made.J.M.
91
91
$27
90 Klein ConstantiaSauvignon Blanc Constantia Perdeblokke 2014 $30 Tightly coiled, with verbena, white asparagus and tarragon notes weaving around
a core of lemon curd. Reveals a light paraffin echo on the
finish. Let this unwind a bit. Drink now through 2018.
670 cases made.J.M.
88 Klein ConstantiaSauvignon Blanc Constantia 2014 $20 Focused, with a core of citrus peel and
SPAIN
92
$90
cherry, licorice, mountain herb, mineral and smoke flavors mingle in this round, polished red, which is modest
in structure, yet quite sleek, balanced and fresh. Drink
now through 2020. 3,700 cases made.T.M.
88
88
87
87
87
90 Marqus
90 Bodegas
91
87
SPAIN
89
89
89
88
86
86
85
Rioja
93
SPAIN
Other Red
93
92
92
91
91
90 Bodegas
90 Bodegas
$35
89
89
89
89
88
EgoJumilla
Fuerza 2013 $22 Notes of cola,
88
SANTOS ORTIZ
& IOANA PAUNESCU
Owners & Winemakers
87
86
85
85
SPAIN
Sparkling & White
89
Peach, pear, licorice and mineral notes mingle in this generous white. Lively acidity supports the fleshy texture,
keeping this balanced and focused. Drink now through
2018. 500 cases made.T.M.
89
89
87
Bodegas CampanteTreixadura-Torronts
Ribeiro Via Reboreda 2014 $12 Juicy flavors of
91
88
87
86
earth, toasty, smoky oak and chewy blackberry and licorice notes. Ends with rich, detailed tannins. Drink now
through 2026. 542 cases made.J.L.
85
$90
United States
CALIFORNIA
Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends
94
93
93
92
90 S n o w d e n C a b e r n e t
Sauvignon Napa Valley The
Ranch 2013 $50 One for the
cellar, this is solid, chunky, tannic
and dense in all the right measures,
with dried herb, cedar, dark berry
and gravelly earth notes. Ends with
a cleansing gravelly aftertaste. Best
from 2018 through 2028. 1,570
cases made.J.L.
90 VengeCabernet
CALIFORNIA
Pinot Noir
94
93
93
93
DIANA SEYSSES
Winemaker
89
93
93
layers of rich, juicy dark berry, this offers plum, wild berry,
raspberry and boysenberry flavors, featuring touches of
black licorice, anise and subtle earth. Delivers firm, finegrained tannins, ending with a dash of mocha. Drink now.
160 cases made.J.L.
92
blackberry, wild berry and wilted rose. Ripe and fullbodied, showing good richness, depth, focus and persistence. Ends with a long, fruity aftertaste. Drink now. 100
cases made.J.L.
87
pery edge and raw tannins. The core of mocha and dark
berry is solid. Drink now. 70,000 cases made.J.L.
92
92
90 Black
92
92
SojournPinot Noir Sonoma Coast Sangiacomo Vineyard 2014 $54 Pure and supple, with a
fleshy middle to the core of cherry, plum and light raspberry, turning to touches of tea, earth and savory herb.
Gains depth and complexity. Drink now. 1,350 cases
made.J.L.
92
91
91
91
floral currant and crushed stone aromas and supple, complex flavors of black cherry, dried herb and spice. Drink
now through 2025. 411 cases made.T.F.
90 Merry
90 Sea
90 Wren
but balanced by lively acidity, with aromas of black raspberry and peppered herb opening to focused flavors of wild
berry, grilled anise and mineral. Drink now through 2022.
1,200 cases made.T.F.
CALIFORNIA
Sparkling & White
92
88
$30
Smoky, toasty oak aromas add allure to this medium-weight, moderately rich effort, with ripe plum and
blackberry notes. Drink now. 8,359 cases made.J.L.
91
CALIFORNIA
to a T, this displays complex pear, anise, vanilla and butterscotch hints, with a firm, pithy backbone of acidity.
The long aftertaste reverberates. Drink now. 405 cases
made.J.L.
Other Red
91
91
93
92
$44
92
91
Acin 2013 $65 Pure, rich and fruity, with smoothtextured pear, apple, melon and white peach flavors. Clean
and refreshing throughout, ending with a delicate honeysuckle aftertaste. Drink now. 87 cases made.J.L.
90 Domaine
91
91
with a fresh green note of lemongrass and lime zest, showing vivid grapefruit flavors. Finishes with a spicy, almond
skin detail. Drink now. 232 cases made.M.W.
with a grapefruit pith grace note adding a touch of refreshing bitterness to the focused cherry and plum flavors.
Comes together harmoniously on the velvety, mediumweight finish. Drink now through 2019. 250 cases
made.H.S.
91
WASHINGTON
Cabernet Franc & Blends
92
Fielding HillsSyrah Wahluke Slope Riverbend Vineyard 2012 $38 Polished, deftly balanced
91
91
91
91
WASHINGTON
Other
generous, with fine tannins framing the core of cherry, floral and black pepper flavors. The finish is supple and expressive. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Best from 2017 through 2023. 425 cases made.H.S.
91
91
93
92
92
92
CLASSIFIEDS
TO PLACE AN AD,
CONTACT CHRISTINA CHIAFFITELLA,
at (212) 481-8610 ext. 321
or cchiaffitella@mshanken.com
BUYI NG /S E L L I NG F I NE WI NE
B U Y I N G P R O P E R LY C E L L A R E D W I N E S F O R
TOP DOLLAR. Get immediate cash and more money than
selling at auction. FineWineCollector.com is based in
California and buying nationwide. Free appraisal. Will pay
for packing and shipping. Call Edward at (408) 370-6700 or
e-mail edward@finewinecollector.com.
BUS I N E SS O P P OR T U N IT IE S
S E L L YO U R P R O P E R LY STO R E D W I N E S TO
JJ BUCKLEY FINE WINES. Well buy your wines
outright! Competitive offers, no minimums, fast payment
well even arrange shipping. E-mail your list to
consign@jjbuckley.com. For additional information,
visit www.jjbuckley.com/sell, or call 888.859.4637.
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Wine Spectators
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FAQ
BERRY SUPERSTITIOUS
Wine is a product of science and faith. Some winegrowing philosophies are rooted in both worlds:
Biodynamics, based on lectures by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner in 1924, employs organic practices
along with methods intended to engage supernatural forces.
COSMIC COMPOST
Biodynamic farming practitioners tap into non-material forces and harness the earths ether, or
life force, through a series of compost preparations that, when added to soil in minute quantities (1
teaspoon to more than 10 tons of soil), are believed to make the land more sensitive to the cosmic
rhythms of the planets.
DR. VINNY
HORN MANURE: A cow horn filled with the manure of a lactating bovine is buried for
six months, fermented manure is then sprayed over the soil; horn acts
as antenna for cosmic forces, homeopathically heals earth
YARROW: A stags bladder is stuffed with yarrow flowers and hung from a tree for six
months, buried for six months, then unearthed for use in compost; manifests Venus
forces, assists spirit to penetrate matter
CHAMOMILE: Cow intestines are stuffed with dried chamomile flowers, placed in a jar
and buried for the winter, unearthed and then added to compost wrapped in peat;
manifests Mercury forces, promotes soil life
Dear Leong,
Both organic and biodynamic farming
Marc
Mondavi
D IV IN E I R R I G ATI O N
The Franzia familys Bronco Wine Co. employs
them. Charles Krugs Marc Mondavi is one. A
water witch, or dowser, is someone who uses
dowsing or divining rodsusually a Y-shaped
twig or two L-shaped copper rodsto lead them
to unseen sources of water such as natural
springs. Dowsing for metals arose in the late
Middle Ages in Europe and was cited by Martin
Luther as a practice of the occult. Settlers of the
American frontier attempted to find water
through the use of divining rods, and some U.S.
Marines thought dowsing could help them find
hidden munitions in Vietnam. While numerous
scientific studies have attempted to test the efficacy of dowsing, most have concluded that the
divining rod is no more effective than chance.
PYRAMID SCHEME