Sewing Machine Operations Mannual

SEWING MACHINE OPERATIONS MANNUAL
PREPARED BY:
ORIENT CRAFT FASHFION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

Chenetha bhavan, Nampally, Hyderabad- 500 001
SUBMITTED TO:
GERMAN DEVELOPMENT CO-OPERATION-GTZ

21, Jor Bagh, New Delhi 110 003
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CONTENTS
PARTICULARS
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER II
SEWING MACHINE
1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE
2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE
3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE
4. MACHINE TERMINOLOGY
5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
A. MULTI - NEEDLE PLEAT GAUGE
B. OVERLOCK MACHINE
C. BARTAK SEWING MACHINE
D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE
E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE
F. FEED OF THE ARM
6. MEASURING TOOLS
CHAPTER III
SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES
1. Page board test
2. Color Blindness
3. Visual Dexterity
CHAPTER - IV - TRAINING OF SEWING MACAHINE OPERATORS
1. PAPER EXERCIESES
Page No.
6
7 To 22
23 To 27
28 To 87
29 to 61
A. Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity

B. Precise stops at maximum speed
C. Straight stitches at maximum velocity
D. Change of Direction with Needle Down
E. Sewing Curve with One Hand
F. Sewing in Circles
G. Judging changes of direction
H. Sewing curves
I. Over Lock Sewing straight line
J. Over Lock Exact stop
K. Sewing curves
2. THREADING OF MACHINE (Single needle lock stitch machine)
62 To 65
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A. Thread the Machine and Draw up the Bobbin Thread

B. Threading the bobbin case
C. Bobbin winding
3. FABRIC EXERCISES
66 To 87
A. Sewing 6x 6 Sewing off the material

B. Sewing 6x 6 Staying Within Material
C. Sewing 6x 6 back tack
D. Sew Over 3 Sides 6x 12
E. 12 X 6 Top stitch
F. Backtack 6x 1`2
G. Baste 6 X 6 in Chain
CHAPTER - V
88 To 90
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZE CHART

1. CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS
2. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR CHILDREN
3. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR TEENAGERS
CHAPTER - VI
91 To 100
MACHINE MAINTAINANCE & SAFETY PRECATIONS

A. Safety- Rules
B. Important safety instructions
C. Machine adjustments and control
CHAPTER - VII
101 To 112
NEEDLE
1. SELECTION OF NEEDLE
2. PART OF THE MACHINE NEEDLS
3. STANDARD NEEDLES
4. TYPE OF NEEDLE AND THEIR USE
5. NEEDLE SIZE AND RELEVANCE OF TYPE OF THE MATERIAL TO BE STICHED
CHAPTER - VIII
113 To 116
SEWING THREAD AND SELECTION CRITERIA
CHAPTER - IX
117 To 127
TYPES OF STITCHES AND SEAM

1. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS
2. SEAM TYPES AND CLASSIFICATIONS
3. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MEN`S SHIRT
4. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MENS`S TROUSER
5. SEAMS & STITCHES OF DENIM TROUSER
6. SEAMS & STITCHES OF POLO T - SHIRT
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7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T SHIRT
CHAPTER - X
128 To 132
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES

1. DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH MACHINE
2. BUTTON HOLING SEWING MACHINE
3. BUTTON STITCH MACHINE
4. OVER LOCK MACHINE
CHAPTER - XI - GARMENT MANUFACTURING
133 To 226
PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT

1. Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts
2. Attaching one piece to other using folder
3. Placket facing attach using folder
4. Hemming operations using folder
5. Square pocket attach
6. Rounded bottom pocket attach
7. Bottom triangle pocket attach
8. Diamond pocket attach
9. Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners
10. Collar run stitch operation
11. Top stitch along edges

12. Hem along the contour
13. Mock neck band hem
14. Sewing with template
15. Mock pick stitching
16. Top stitch handling tree piles
17. Mock centre stitch collar
18. Mock topstitch collar
19. Cuff hem
20. Mock run stitch cuffs
21. Binding operation
22. Binding operation using a folder
23. Mock continuous slv placket attach using a folder
24. Mock split edge placket attach operation using folder
25. Attach two plies using folder
26. Pleats
27. Mock yoke attach with folder
28. Shoulder attach without folder
29. Topstitch shoulder
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30. Shoulder attach using folder

31. Sew contour fabric to straight fabric
32. Mock collar attach
33. Binding operations
34. Mock collar finish
35. Lap seam along contour
36. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap Seam)
37. Lap seam along contour using folder
38. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap seam) with folder
39. Topstitch along contour over lap seam
40. Topstitch along contour over lap seam using folder
41. Topstitch sleeve attach
42. Topstitch sleeve attach using folder
43. Hemming long contours (Curved)
44. Long straight hemming
45. Hemming long contours (Curved) using folder
46. Long straight hemming using folder
CHAPTER XII
227 To 241
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE

1. Various Collar Operations
2. Yoking and Shoulder Joining:
3. Pocket Hemming
4. Cuff Hemming - Short Sleeve
5. Tail Hemming
6. Button Stay Hemming
7. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve
8. Setting Sleeve Plackets
9. Closing Side Seams
10. Sleeve Setting
11. Attach Center Placket
12. Pleat Gauge
CHAPTER XII
MONTHLY SCHEDULE FOR SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING PROGRAMME
242 To 243
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CHAPTER - I
INTRODUCTION
Apparel and Textile industry in India is the largest employer after agriculture. It
provides direct employment to 35 million people and another 56 million are engaged in
related activities. Around 14% of industrial production of the country is contributed by the
sector. Indeed the apparel sector place a major role in Indian economy and also in foreign
exchange earnings. Apparel exports contribute approximately 9% in Indias total exports
earnings and accounts for about 4% of world trade in textiles and apparels. It is pertinent to
mention that the apparel sector predominantly consist of Small and Medium Enterprises
(SMEs). With the abolition of quota regime under WTO and opening of markets, there is
competition from many countries to retain the existing global market share and also look for
new markets. India has set a target under 11th plan to earn $ 50 billion through exports of
textiles and apparels. To reach the target Indian apparel industry has to work on many
fronts to be successful in a totally competitive international environment particularly
focusing on factors like development of skilled human resource, quality and productivity,
design development and product diversification and improving lead time and pricing,
effective marketing management.
Indian Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) alone cannot attain competitiveness
without the support of likeminded international partners like German Technical Co
operation (GTZ) to enhance the competitiveness of SMEs. Indeed GTZ is committed under
SME Financing and Development Project for the development of apparel sector and
identified it as the priority sector for intervention.
Against the back ground the GTZ has undertaken the task of MSMEs competency
building through business development services in Readymade garments cluster at
Hyderabad with the support of Orient Craft Fashion Institute of Technology (OCFIT)
particularly in preparing manual for sewing machine operators.
In furtherance of the same, OCFIT with a view to assist development of readymade
garment cluster in Hyderabad focusing around 50 RMGs (16 micro units, 14 small units and
20 medium and large units), studied their working pattern, commercial viability and
prepared this manual to assist the sewing machine operators.
Indeed this manual is prepared based on best international sewing practices world
over with a focus on exports of readymade garments from India through SMEs.
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CHAPTER - II
SEWING MACHINE
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1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE

The democratization of fashion began with the invention of the sewing machine, which
turned a handicraft into an industry. The sewing machine made the mass production of clothing
possible. In 1829, a French tailor named Thimmonier patented a wooden chain-stitch sewing
machine, but all existing models were destroyed by rioting tailors who feared for their jobs. Walter
Hunt, an American, developed a sewing machine in 1832 but failed to patent it. Thus, the man who
is usually credited with its invention is Elias Howe, who patented his in 1846. All of Howes machines
were run by hand.
In 1859, Isaac Singer, whose name has become a household word because of his mass
production of the sewing machine. He developed the foot treadle, an improvement that left the
hands free to guide the fabric, and mass-produced these machines. Singer spent $1 million a year on
sales promotion and, by 1867, was producing a thousand machines per day (Electrically powered
models were not available until 1921). To save time and to keep control over production,
entrepreneurs brought workers and machinery together in factories. This caused many people in
search of work to move to the cities where the factories were located.
In 1849, when the Gold Rush attracted thousands of men in California in search of gold, a 20year old Bavarian immigrant by the name of Levi Strauss opened a dry goods store in San Francisco.
In 1873 he began to manufacture long-wearing pants with riveted pockets, using a tough cotton
fabric called serge de Nimes. (Loomed in Nimes, France), later shortened to denim. They are an item
of wearing apparel that has remained basically the same for nearly 150 years.
Another early use for sewing machines was to make Civil War uniforms. The Union army
recorded the chest an height measurements of more than a million soldiers to come up with the first
standardization of sizes. After the war, sewing machines and uniform sizing promoted the mass
production of everyday mens wear.
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2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE

Historians of the early days of the sewing machine can argue for hours over the simple
matter of who invented what is, in many ways, one of the most important machines ever
devised.
The story really starts in 1755 in London when a German immigrant, Charles Wiesenthal,
took out a patent for a needle to be used for mechanical sewing. There was no mention of a
machine to go with it, and another 34 years were to pass before Englishman Thomas Saint
invented what is generally considered to be the first real sewing machine.
In 1790 the cabinet maker patented a machine with which an awl made a hole in leather
and then allowed a needle to pass through. Critics of Saint's claim to fame point out that
quite possibly Saint only patented an idea and that most likely the machine was never built.
It is known that when an attempt was made in the 1880s to produce a machine from Saint's
drawings it would not work without considerable modification.
The story then moves to Germany where, in around 1810, inventor Balthasar Krems
developed a machine for sewing caps. No exact dates can be given for the Krems models as
no patents were taken out.
An Austrian tailor Josef Madersperger produced a series of machines during the early years
of the 19th century and received a patent in 1814. He was still working on the invention in
1839, aided by grants from the Austrian government, but he failed to get all the elements
together successfully in one machine and eventually died a pauper. Two more inventions
were patented in 1804, one in France to a Thomas Stone and a James Henderson -- a
machine which attempted to emulate hand sewing -- and another to a Scott John Duncan
for an embroidery machine using a number of needles. Nothing is known of the fate of
either invention.
America's first real claim to fame came in 1818 when a Vermont churchman John Adams
Doge and his partner John Knowles produced a device which, although making a reasonable
stitch, could only sew a very short length of material before laborious re-setting up was
necessary.
One of the more reasonable claimants for inventor of the sewing machine must be
Barthelme Thimmonier who, in 1830, was granted a patent by the French government. He
used a barbed needle for his machine which was built almost entirely of wood. It is said that
he originally designed the machine to do embroidery, but then saw its potential as a sewing
machine.
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Unlike any others who went before him, he was able to convince the authorities of the
usefulness of his invention and he was eventually given a contract to build a batch of
machines and use them to sew uniforms for the French army. In less than 10 years after the
granting of his patent Thimmonier had a factory running with 80 machines, but then ran
into trouble from Parisian tailors. They feared that, were his machines successful, they
would soon take over from hand sewing, putting the craftsmen tailors out of work.
Late one night a group of tailors stormed the factory, destroying every machine, and causing
Thimmonier to flee for his life. With a new partner he started again, produced a vastlyimproved machine and looked set to go into full-scale production; but the tailors attacked
again. With France in the grip of revolution, Thimmonier could expect little help from the
police or army and fled to England with the one machine he was able to salvage.
He certainly produced the first practical sewing machine, was the first man to offer
machines for sale on a commercial basis and ran the first garment factory. For all that, he
died in the poor house in 1857.
In America a quaker Walter Hunt invented, in 1833, the first machine which did not try to
emulate hand sewing. It made a lock stitch using two spools of thread and incorporated an
eye-pointed needle as used today. But again it was unsuccessful for it could only produce
short, straight, seams.
Nine years later Hunt's countryman, John Greenough, produced a working machine in which
the needle passed completely through the cloth. Although a model was made and exhibited
in the hope of raising capital for its manufacture, there were no takers.
Perhaps all the essentials of a modern machine came together in early 1844 when
Englishman John Fisher invented a machine which although designed for the production of
lace, was essentially a working sewing machine. Probably because of miss-filing at the
patent office, this invention was overlooked during the long legal arguments between Singer
and Howe as to the origins of the sewing machine.
Despite a further flurry of minor inventions in the 1840s, most Americans will claim that the
sewing machine was invented by Massachusetts farmer Elias Howe who completed his first
prototype in 1844 just a short time after Fisher.
A year later it was patented and Howe set about trying to interest the tailoring trade in his
invention. He even arranged a competition with his machine set against the finest hand
sewers in America. The machine won hands down but the world wasn't ready for
mechanized sewing and, despite months of demonstrations, he had still not made a single
sale.
Desperately in debt Howe sent his brother Amasa to England with the machine in the hope
that it would receive more interest on the other side of the Atlantic. Amasa could find only
one backer, a corset maker William Thomas, who eventually bought the rights to the
invention and arranged for Elias to come to London to further develop the machine.
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The two did not work well together, each accusing the other of failing to honor agreements
and eventually Elias, now almost penniless, returned to America. When he arrived home he
found that the sewing machine had finally caught on and that dozens of manufacturers,
including Singer, were busy manufacturing machines -- all of which contravened the Howe
patents.
A long series of law suits followed and were only settled when the big companies, including
Wheeler & Wilson and Grover & Baker, joined together, pooled their patents, and fought as
a unit to protect their monopoly.
Singer did not invent any notable sewing-machine advances, but he did pioneer the hirepurchase system and aggressive sales tactics.
Both Singer and Howe ended their days as multi-millionaires.
So the argument can go on about just who invented the sewing machine and it is unlikely
that there will ever be agreement. What is clear, however, is that without the work of those
long-dead pioneers, the dream of mechanized sewing would never have been realized.
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3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE:
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4. MACHINE TERMINOLOGY
The parts of the lockstitch machine, which are identified below.
Arm
The horizontal part of the head that houses the drive shafts.
Bed
The working surface of the machine under winch is located the

mechanism at handles the lower thread. On a flat bed machine, the bed
rests In the cut-out of the table.
Belt (motor belt or machine

belt)
The circular strap that transmits motion from the pulley to the hand
wheel, allowing the machine to operate.
Bobbin Mechanism
The parts - bobbin, bobbin case, and bobbin tension spring - that control
the lower thread and Its tension.
Bobbin winder
The part that fills another bobbin while the machine is stitching.
check spring (tension spring or

take-up spring)
A small wire spring behind or at the top of the tension discs. It provides
a. small amount of tension on the needle thread and acts as a shock
absorber. On some machines, the check spring is mounted separately.
Faceplate
The cover on the left side of the bead that covers the needle bar and the
presser bar.
feed dogs (feed dog, feeder or

feed) fly wheel)
The toothed mechanism beneath the presser foot that moves fabric
forward and backward.
Fittings
The parts - presser foot, feed dogs, and throat plate - that control the
cloth during stitching.
Hand wheel
flywheel)
(balance
or
The part that controls the motion of the machine manually and/or
electrically.
Head
The part of the machine above the table, containing the stitching
mechanism.
Heel
The back of the presser foot.
Hook(rotary hook or machine

hook)
A rotating device that hooks the needle thread to carry it around the
bobbin and form the lock on the lockstitch.
Knee Lift (Knee Lifter or knee

press)
A lever mounted at the right under the sewing table to lift and lower the
presser foot with the right knee.
Motor
The electrical unit that drives the machine.
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Needle
The part that penetrates the fabric. It carries the thread to the hook or
shuttle and up again to make the stitch.
Needle bar
A vertical bar that holds one or more needles and moves the needle up
and down.
Needle screw (needle bar clamp)
The screw that holds the needle in the needle bar.
Oil gauge
The part that Indicates the amount of oil in self-oiling machines.
Pan (machine pan)
The metal pan. under the head that catches oil, lint and metal shards.
On self-lubricating machines, it holds the oil.
Presser bar
The bar to which the presser foot is attached.
Presser bar lifter
A lever at the back of presser bar to raise and lower the presser foot by
hand. It is used to raise the presser foot when winding a bobbin and
when not stitching.(Its use is discouraged in industrial sewing because it
wastes time and energy).
Presser foot
A device that holds the fabric in place for stitching.
Pressure regulator
Control that regulates the amount of pressure on the (pressure dial)

presser foot.
Pretension
A simple tension disc used to regulate the thread so that it will feed into
the tension assembly evenly.
Pulley
The wheel attached to the motor. It transmits motion from the motor to
the hand wheel by means of a leather belt.
Rotary hook assembly
The part that holds the bobbin case.
Shuttle
An oscillating device that carries the needle thread around the bobbin
and forms the lock on the lockstitch.
Slack thread regulator
A metal hook or bar near the tension discs.
Slide plate (slide or bed slide)
A removable cover at the left of the machine bed that bed allows access
to the lower mechanism.
Sole (shoe or slipper)
The bottom part of the presser foot that contracts the cloth.
Stand
A metal structure upon which the table is mounted.
Stitch hole (needle hole)
The hole in the throat plate. The needle carries the thread into the hole
so that it can interlock with the bobbin thread.
Stitch regulator
A device that regulates stitch length.
Switch (power switch)
A key or button that turns the machine on and off.
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Table
The cabinet upon which the bead rests, it generally has a drawer on the
left side.
Take-up lever
The part that first loosens the top thread during the stitch formation,
then removes any slack to set or lock the stitch.
Take-up lever guard
A piece of metal in front of the thread take-up lever.
Tension discs
Two concave discs that control the delivery of the upper thread from
the spool to the needle.
Thread guides (thread eyelets)
The parts that guide the thread from the thread cone (thread eyelets) to
the needle. They smooth the thread and protect it from abrasion.
Thread retainer (pretension)
A three-hole guide that applies a small amount of tension on the thread

so it win flow into the tension discs uniformly.
Thread stand
A metal device that holds thread cones.
Throat plate
The smooth surface directly under the presser foot that includes the
stitch hole and surrounds the feed dog. It protects the lower mechanism
from a build-up of excess lint.
Toes (Prongs)
The front end of the presser foot, or the part that faces the oncoming
cloth. It is frequently upturned. On feet such as the zipper foot, cording
foot, and shirring foot, there is only one toe.
Treadle (foot treadle)
A metal platform on which the feet rest.(Note: In case of an accident,

the clutch control releases the hand wheel so that it can be turned).
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5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES

A. MULTI NEEDLE PLEAT GAUGE
Imperial multi-needle pleat gauges for tuxedo front shirts - both men's
and ladies'.
Several pleat types are available; including exposed and covered types
illustrated above.
Attachments available for Union Special 54400 (type 401 stitch)
machines or 52 Class (type 101 stitch) machine.
Exact finish size and samples are required. Please Submit Samples with
Order.
Both Union Special 54400 and Imperial 52 Class machines also available.
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B. OVERLOCK MACHINE
Type of stitch
Machine speed
Type of motor used
Lock stitch
2500[s.p.m/r.p.m]
Induction motor
Type of lubrication
Oil used
Type of feed
Type of needle
Type of bed
Purpose of machine
Power consumption
Automatic
G2
Different feed
DP X 5
Cylindrical bed
Loops attaching
3/4HP
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C. BARTACK SEWING MACHINE
Type of stitch
Machine speed
Type of motor used
Lock stitch
2500[s.p.m/r.p.m]
Induction motor
Type of lubrication
Oil used
Type of feed
Type of needle
Type of bed
Purpose of machine
Power consumption
Automatic
G2
Different feed
DP X 5
Cylindrical bed
Loops attaching
3/4HP
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D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE
Type of stitch
Machine speed
Type of motor used
Type of lubrication
Oil used
Type of feed
Type of needle
Type of bed
Purpose of machine
Power consumption
Lock stitch
2500[s.p.m/r.p.m]
Induction motor
Automatic
G2
Different feed
DP X 17
Cylindrical bed
Button sewing
3/4HP
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E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE
Type of stitch
Machine speed
Type of motor used
Type of lubrication
Oil used
Type of needle
Type of bed
Purpose of machine
Power consumption
Lock stitch [bobbin, bobbin case are used].

3600 -4000[s.p.m/r.p.m]
Induction motor
Automatic
G1
DP X 5
Raised bed
Making button holes
3/4HP
Page | 20
F. FEED OF THE ARM
Type of stitch
Machine speed
Type of motor used
Type of lubrication
Oil used
Type of feed
Type of needle
Type of bed
Purpose of machine
Power consumption
Chine stitch
4000[s.p.m/r.p.m]
Clutch motor
Automatic & manuals
G1
Needle feed
TV X 1orTV X 64
Cylindrical bed
Joining sleeves, side of trouser
1/2 HP
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6. MEASURING TOOLS
Paper Scissors
Fabric Scissors
Seam ripper
Measuring Tape
Tracing Wheel
Trimmer
Measuring Scale
Pencil & Eraser
Page | 22
CHAPTER-III
SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES
Page | 23
The Candidate for the SMO Training Programme must have the minimum
qualification of 8th Standard.
The Candidates age preferably should be between 18 to 25 years.
The objective of the program is to meet the skill requirements of the apparel
industry and to create gainful employment opportunities for rural BPL families in
apparel industry. So, keeping in view the requirements of the industry, the candidate
for the SMO Programme has to pass through the following tests:
1. PEG BOARD TEST
The Peg Board Test is conducted to know the hand movement of the candidate. The Purdue
Pegboard has been used extensively for various applications. It has two types of activity:
one measures gross movements of the hands, fingers, and arms, and the other measures
assembly or fingertip dexterity.
The Peg Board Test consists of a rectangular board that holds cylindrical pegs. The pegs are
approximately two inch (2.5 cm) in height, and are colored red on one side, black on the
other. Two tests were chosen for this research. The peg board test requires subjects to
transfer the pegs from one hole in the tray to another. The peg board test requires subjects
to pick up a peg, transfer it to the other hand while turning it over, and replace it with the
opposite side facing up.
The operator will be given 80 sec of time to complete it. The operator has to complete the
exercises given in the given span of period.
Page | 24
2. COLOR BLINDNESS TEST

The colour blindness test used test to check color vision deficiencies. There are different
sets available which are often used for pilot, police officer and other job recruitments,
where perfect colour vision is a precondition.
This is a test plate in which everyone should see a "12".
This plate is designed to separate the type of color defectives and the level to which they
are observed. Most will see the number "26" clearly while some will only see a "2" or a "6"
or no numerals at all.
Can you trace a line from one "X" to the other? Someone with normal color vision will trace
an orange/brown purple line and those with a slight deficiency will follow a different path.
Page | 25
Some of the Examples are:
The operator will be shown 10 figures. Each carries 5 sec of time. The operator must be able
to recognize the Letter or Number which is in the Figure in the given span of time.
Page | 26
3. VISUAL DEXTERITY TEST

Example:
8
5
3
2
7
1
6
9
4
10
Practice:
Visual Dexterity test is the crucial one which plays major role in knowing the Eye
Coordination of the operator.
Eye coordination is a crucial skill involving how effective we are at translating what our eyes
see into appropriate physical responses, such as anticipating the motion of a line in its way
so that we could find out the exact destiny of the line. The operator will be given two
exercises; each carries 30 sec of time to complete it. The operator has to complete the
exercises given in the given span of period.
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CHAPTER-IV
TRAINING OF SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS
1. PAPER EXERCISES
Page | 28
A.
Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity
EXERCISE 1
DURATION: 6 SECS
START
STOP
MACHINE: SNLS
Page | 29
Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise Number :
Exercise :
Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity
6 Seconds
Paper Exercise #1
Starting Position:
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with

both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift.
Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Place paper under the machine so that the dotted
line lies directly under the needle.
Sew at maximum speed without leaving boundary.
stop at the end of the column with the needle at top
position (1 stitch tolerance).
Raise the foot and slide the paper to the next
column.
Sew the second line until the end.
Raise the foot and slide paper to the next column.
Stop the chronometer when apprentice sets paper
on the third column.
Security
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper.
Maintain fingers away from needle at all times.
use glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Do not tear paper.
The stitch line should remain straight and within the
column limits
Ergonomics
Sited in front of the sewing machine.
Both feet on pedal
Page | 30
chair and Machine at a comfortable height.

Back rest facing forward.
Waste
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times
Abilities developed
Pedal control
Straight stitches centered at a 3/8 at maximum velocity.
Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot.
Necessary material
SNLS without thread
Paper exercise #1
Page | 31
Precise stops at maximum speed
B.
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE 2
DURATION: 6 SECS
START
STOP
Page | 32
Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 6 Seconds
Exercise : Precise stops at maximum speed

Starting Position:
Exercise Number :
Paper exercise # 2
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine

with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in
machine.
Methodology:
Place paper under the machine so that the
dotted line lies directly under the needle.
Sew at maximum speed without leaving
boundary.
st
stop at the end of the 1 column with the
needle at top position (1 stitch tolerance).
Raise the foot and slide the paper to the next
column.
Sew the second line until the end.
Raise the foot and slide paper to the next
column.
Stop the chronometer when apprentice sets
paper on the third column.
Security
use glasses.
Quality
Do not tear paper.
The stitch line should remain straight and within the
column limits
Ergonomics
Both feet on pedal
Page | 33

Waste
Abilities developed
Pedal control
Straight stitches centered at a 3/8 at maximum
velocity.
Necessary material
SNLS without thread
Paper exercise #2
Page | 34
C.
EXERCISE 3
DURATION: 10 SECS
START
STOP
MACHINE: SNLS
Straight stitches at maximum velocity
Page | 35
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise :
Straight stitches at maximum velocity
Starting Position:
Goal : 10 Seconds
Exercise Number :
Paper exercise #3
Illustration:

Methodology:
Sew at maximum speed in a straight line within
boundaries.
Stop with the pedal at the end of the rectangle with
the needle at the top position.
Make sure the stitches do not leave the rectangle.
Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that the
second dotted line lies directly under the needle.
boundaries.
Stop with the pedal once the apprentice has
reached the end of the rectangle, keeping the
needle in the
top position.
third dotted line lies directly under the needle.
The chronometer is stopped once the paper is
placed under the third dotted line.
Note:
Each cycle includes two lines
Security
Use glasses.
Quality
Do not tear paper.
The stitch line should remain straight and within
Boundaries.
Ergonomics
Both feet on pedal
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Page | 36
Waste
Abilities developed
Exact Stops
Straight stitches at maximum velocity centered at
118 margin.
Necessary material
SNLS without thread
Paper exercise #3
Page | 37
D.
MACHINE:SNLS
Change of Direction with Needle Down
EXERCISE 4
DURATION: 10 SECS
START
STOP
Page | 38
Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 10 Seconds
Exercise : Change of Direction with Needle Down
Exercise Number :
Paper exercise:4
Starting Position:
machine.
Methodology:
Sew at maximum speed in a straight line so
that stitches lie over doffed line.
Stop with needle in down position when the
apprentice reaches the square.
Make sure the stitches do not leave the
square.
Lift the foot and turn the paper 90 clockwise.
Lower machines foot and sew towards next
square.
Stop with needle in down position when the
apprentice reaches square.
Sew at maximum speed in a straight line so
that stitches lie over dotted line and stop
when the last
square is reached.
Illustration:
Lift foot and place paper to start second cycle

Lower machines foot.
stop chronometer when the machines foot is
lowered
Note:
Each cycle contains 3 lines and 2 90 turns.
SECURITY
use glasses. -]
Avoid using lo6se clothing and/or long and loose hair.
QUALITY
Do not tear paper.
Make turns with needle at down position and within
Page | 39
square
limits.
1/16 Misalignment with dotted line.
ERGONOMICS
Both feet on pedal
WASTE
ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Exact Stops
Straight stitches at maximum velocity.
Use of push button to control machines foot.
NECESSARY MATERIALS
SNLS without thread
Paper exercise #4
Page | 40
E.
EXERCISE 5
DURATION: 6 SECS
START
STOP
MACHINE: SNLS
Sewing Curve with One Hand
Page | 41
Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 6 seconds
Exercise : Sewing Curve with One Hand

Starting Position:
Exercise Number :
Paper exercise # 5
Illustration:

both feet on the pedal the right knee against the knee lift.
Methodology:

Place paper under the machine so that the line lies
directly under the needle.
Sew at maximum speed following the curved line
using only the LH on the paper, turning the wrist.
Stop at the end of the line with the needle on the
top position.
Slide the paper with the LH while the machine foot
is at the uppermost position.
directly under the needle to start the second cycle.
The chronometer is stopped when the apprentice is
set for the next cycle.
Security:
Use glasses.
Quality:
Do not tear paper.
Maintain margin at +/-1/16" with respect to line.
Sew without stopping.
Page | 42
Ergonomics:
Both feet on pedal
Waste:
Abilities Developed:
Sewing curved lines at a constant margin.
Changing direction without stopping.
Necessary Materials:
SNLS without thread
Paper exercise #5
Page | 43
F.
MACHINE: SNLS
START
Sewing in Circles
EXERCISE 6
DURATION: 34 SECS
STOP
Page | 44
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise :
Sewing in Circles
Starting Position:
Goal: 14 seconds
Exercise Number :
Paper exercise # 6
Illustration:

Methodology:

Sew at maximum speed following the curved line
without stopping, turning the paper to form an
eight.
Use index fingers to pivot paper.
stop at the end with the needle on the top position.
Turn and slide the paper while the machine foot is
at the uppermost position towards the next cycle.
The chronometer is stopped when the apprentice is
set for the next cycle.
Security
Hold the, paper with the thumb under the paper.
Use glasses.
Quality
Do not tear paper.
Maintain margin at /-l/16 with respect to line.
Ergonomics
Both feet on pedal
Page | 45
Waste
Abilities developed
Use of push button to control machine foot.
Necessary
SNLS without thread
Paper exercise # 6
Page | 46
G.
MACHINE: SNLS
Judging changes of direction
EXERCISE 7
DURATION: 20 SECS
Page | 47
Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 20
Seconds
Exercise : Judging changes of direction.
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing

machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.
Exercise Number :
Paper exercise # 7
Illustration:
Methodology:
Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line
lies directly under the needle.
Sew at maximum speed in a V- shape line so that
stitches lie over doffed line.
Stop with needle in down position when the apprentice
reaches the V- shape.
Make sure the stitches do not leave the V- shape.
Lower machines foot and sew towards next V- shape .
Stop with needle in down position when the apprentice
reaches V- shape .
Sew at maximum speed in a straight line so that stitches
lie over dotted line and stop when the last
V- shape is reached.
Lift foot and place paper to start second cycle
Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line
Lower machines foot.
stop chronometer when the machines foot is lowered
Note:
Each cycle contains 8 lines and 7 60 turns.
Security
use glasses. -]
Avoid using lo6se clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Do not tear paper.
Make turns with needle at down position and within square
limits.
1/16 Misalignment with dotted line.
Ergonomics
Page | 48
Both feet on pedal

Waste
Abilities developed
Exact Stops
Straight stitches at maximum velocity.
Necessary material
SNLS without thread
Paper exercise # 7
Page | 49
H.
MACHINE: SNLS
Sewing curves
EXERCISE 8
DURATION: 20 SECS
Page | 50
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise :
Sewing curves
Starting Position:
Goal: 20 Seconds
Exercise Number :
Paper exercise # 8
Illustration:

machine.
Methodology:

Place paper under the machine so that the line
Sew at maximum speed following the curved
line without stopping.
Use index fingers to pivot paper.
Stop at the end with the needle on the top
position..
The chronometer is stopped when the
apprentice is set for the next curve.
Security
Hold the, paper with the thumb under the paper.
Use glasses.
Quality
Do not tear paper.
Maintain margin at /-l/16 with respect to line.
Ergonomics
Both feet on pedal
Page | 51
Waste
Abilities developed
Use of push button to control machine foot.
Necessary materials
SNLS without thread
Paper exercise # 8
Page | 52
I.
MACHINE: O/L
O / L Sewing straight line
EXERCISE 9
DURATION: 10 SECS
Page | 53
Machine:
O/L
Goal: 10 Seconds
Exercise : O / L Sewing straight line

Starting Position:
Exercise Number :
Paper exercise # 9
Illustration:

left feet on the pedal and the right feet on the lifter. Paper
in starting position. No thread in machine.
Methodology:
lies directly under the pressure foot.
boundaries.
Stop with the pedal at the end of the rectangle
with the needle at the top position.
second line lies directly under the pressure foot.
boundaries.
reached the end of the rectangle, keeping the
needle in the
top position.
third dotted line lies directly under the needle.
Security
Use glasses.
Quality
Do not tear paper.
Boundaries.
Ergonomics
Left feet on pedal & right feet on lifter.
Page | 54
Waste
Abilities developed
Exact Stops
118 margin.
Necessary material
O / L without thread
Paper exercise #9
Page | 55
J.
MACHINE: O/L
O / L Exact stop
EXERCISE 10
DURATION: 20 SECS
Page | 56
Machine:
O/L
Goal: 20 Seconds
Exercise : O / L Exact stop

Starting Position:
Exercise Number :
Paper exercise # 10
Illustration:

left feet on the pedal and the right feet on the lifter.
Methodology:
lies directly under the pressure foot.
Sew at maximum speed in a line within
boundaries.
Stop with the pedal at the end of the straight
line with the needle and turn to 120 and stitch
correspondingly..
Make sure the stitches do not leave the
rectangle.
Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that
the second line lies directly under the pressure
foot.
reached the end of the line, keeping in the top
position.
Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that
the third dotted line lies directly under the
pressure foot.
Security
Use glasses.
Quality
Do not tear paper inside of the lines..
Boundaries.
Ergonomics
Page | 57
Waste
Abilities developed
Exact Stops
Straight stitches at maximum velocity centered
at 118 margin.
Necessary material
Paper exercise #9
Page | 58
K.
MACHINE: O/L
Sewing curves
EXERCISE 11
DURATION: 15 SECS
Page | 59
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise :
Sewing curves
Starting Position:
Goal: 20 Seconds
Exercise Number :
Paper exercise # 11
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with left
feet on the pedal and the right feet on the lifter. Paper in
starting position. No thread in machine.
Methodology:
directly under the pressure foot.
Sew at maximum speed in a line within boundaries.
Stop with the pedal at the end of the straight line
with the needle and turn to 120 and stitch
correspondingly..
second line lies directly under the pressure foot.
reached the end of the line, keeping in the top
position.
third dotted line lies directly under the pressure
foot.
Security
Use glasses.
Quality
Do not tear paper inside of the lines..
Boundaries.
Ergonomics
Page | 60
Waste
Abilities developed
Exact Stops
118 margin.
Necessary material
Paper exercise #8
Page | 61
2. THREADING OF MACHINE (Single needle lock stitch machine)
Page | 62
A. Thread the Machine and Draw up the Bobbin Thread

1. Turn the machine off and remove your feet from the treadle. If there is no needle in the
machine, run the machine out. Then insert a new needle. Check to be sure there is no lint or
dust between the tensions discs or in the thread guide.
2. Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest point.
3. Place the thread on the thread stand. Then pass the thread over the guide at the top of the
thread stand and through the hole in the spool pin(s).
4. Guide the thread into the right (or top) hole of the needle-thread retainer. Then, guide it
through the center hole and, finally the bottom (or left) hole.
5. Guide the thread between the tension discs. Pull it into the check spring and under the slack
thread retainer or vertical bar.
6. Guide the thread from right to left into the eye of the take-up lever.
7. Guide the thread through the remaining guides. The last thread guide is located directly
above the long groove on the needle.
8. Trim the thread end as needed and thread it into the eye of the needle from left to right.
Note: The thread always threads from the long eye or groove on one side of the needle to
the short eye on the other
9. Pull the thread end about 3 (15cm) and hold the thread loosely in your left band.
10. Release the brake and turn the hand wheel so that the needle moves down and up again to
catch the bobbin thread. If the thread doesnt come up, check the machine threading.
Remove the bobbin case, rethread, and insert again
Note: If you continue to turn the hand wheel, you may create a thread jam.
11. Pull the needle thread taut to bring the bobbin thread up through the needle hole.
12. Pull both threads between the prongs or toes of the foot, and then under the presser foot to
the back of the machine leaving a 5 (15cm) tail.
13. Draw the thread path for a lockstitch machine.
Page | 63
B. Threading the bobbin case
1. Removing the bobbin case

Raise the bobbin case latch to remove the bobbin case
2. Threading the bobbin case
Pass the thread through the slit 1 in the bobbin case and route it under tension
spring 2
Hold the large of the bobbin case and set the bobbin case into the hook.
Place the bobbin in the case taking care of the winding direction of the thread.(The
bobbin should turn in the direction of arrow B when the thread is pulled in the
direction of arrow A)
Page | 64
C. Bobbin winding
1) Route the thread in the order of A, B, and C, and then wind it round the bobbin several times.
2) Set bobbin presser 1 down to make the winder come in contact with the belt.
3) Adjust adjustment screw 2 of the amount of bobbin thread to be wound round the bobbin so that
the
bobbin is wound with thread about 80%.Turn the adjustment screw 2 clockwise to increase the
bobbin
thread amount or counterclockwise to decrease it.
4) If thread is wound unevenly, move winder tension adjust base 3 to the right or left until it is
correctly
positioned.
5) The moment the bobbin has been wound up, the bobbin presser is released, and the bobbin
winder will
stop automatically.
Page | 65
3. FABRIC EXERCISES
TRAINING OF SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS
Page | 66
A. Sewing 6x 6 Sewing off the material

MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE: SEW 6 X 6, SEWING OFF
DURATION: 15 SECS
6
6 X 6
Seam Type
Page | 67
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise:
Sewing 6x 6 Sewing off the material.
Starting Position:
Goal:15 Seconds
Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #1
Illustration:

Both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift.
Place material close to the apprentice.
Methodology:
Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH
simultaneously.
Move fabric to the front, and lift machine toot.
Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4"
margin.
Sew at maximum speed until the first edge,
respecting the margin of 1/4".
Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads.
Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise,
Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4
margin.
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the second edge,
respecting the margin of V..
Lift machine foot.
margin.
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the third edge,
respecting the margin of 1/4"
Lift machine foot and tum cloth counterclockwise.
margin.
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the fourth edge,
respecting the margin 1/4"
Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut
threads.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
The needle.
Quality
Maintain a margin of 1/4 (+-1/16).
Ergonomics
chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing
Page | 68
forward.
Waste
Use fabric various times while practicing.
Abilities Developed
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed.
Pedal control.
Consistency in margins.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 thread cone
2 bobbins.
6 x 6 fabric
Scissors
Page | 69
B. Sewing 6x 6 Staying Within Material

MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE: SEW 6 X 6, STAYING WITH IN
DURATION: 18 SECS
6
6 X 6
Seam Type
Page | 70
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise :
Sewing 6x 6 Staying Within Material
Starting Position:
Goal: 18 Seconds
Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #2
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift, Place
fabric close to the apprentice.
Methodology:
Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH
simultaneously.
Move fabric to the front, and lift machine foot. Place
fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin.
Lower machine foot,
Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting
the margin of (+-1/16).
Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly
1/4 from the edge.
Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise.
Lower machine foot.
respecting the margin of 1/4 (+-1/16).
from the edge.
Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise,
Lower machine foot.
respecting the margin of (+-1/16).
stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly %
from the edge,
Lift machine foot and turn cloth counterclockwise,
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the fourth edge,
respecting the margin of (+-1/16)
threads,
Timekeeper stops the chronometer.
Security
the needle.
Quality
Ergonomics
chair and Machineat a comfortable height. Back rest facing
forward.
Page | 71
Waste
Abilities Developed
Pedal control.
Exact stops.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 thread cone
2 bobbins.
6 x 6 fabric
Scissors
Page | 72
C. Sewing 6 x 6 back tack

MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE: SEW 6 X 6, BACKTACK
DURATION: 21 SECS
Seam Type
Page | 73
Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 12 Seconds
Exercise : Sewing 6 x 6 back tack

Starting Position:
Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #3
Illustration:
Sit straight with two feet on the treadle. Keep the trimmer so
as to access easily.
Methodology:
Pick two pieces of the fabrics one with each hand.
Align the fabric while moving to the needle.
Place the fabric under the needle! 1/4 from its top &
1/4 from its side. Start sewing, with back tack
Stop sewing at 1/4 from the bottom edge with
needle down. Turn the fabric CCW 90 deg & start
sewing in the same way for next 3 sides.
When sewing the 4th side! Stop where the stitch has
started & back tack (3 to 4 stitches).
Security
Keep away fingers from the needle.
Quality
Perfect alignment & regular stitch margin of 1/4 Sharp corners.
Number of back tack stitches. Avoid fullness.
Ergonomics
Keep two bundles one on each side of the body.
Waste
Abilities Developed
Completely set SNLS machine.6 x 6 fabric pieces.
Page | 74
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread cone
2 Bobbins
6 x 6 fabric
scissors
Page | 75
D. Sew Over 3 Sides 6x 12

MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE: SEW 3 SIDES 6 X 12
DURATION: 21 SECS
12
Seam Type
Page | 76
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise :
Sew Over 3 Sides 6x 12
Starting Position:
Goal:14 Seconds
Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #4
Illustration:
fabric close to the operator.
Methodology:
Take corners of fabric with both hands.
Lift machine root.
Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a
margin.
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting
the margin of (+-1/16)).
from the edge.
Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise
with LH.
Lower machine foot.
respecting the margin of (+-1/16)
1/4 from the edge.
Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise.
Lower machine foot.
respecting the margin of 1/4 (+.l/16).
threads.
Security
the needle.
Use safety glasses.
Quality
Ergonomics
forward.
Page | 77
Waste
Abilities Developed
Pedal control.
Exact stops.
Joining and handling of large pieces
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 thread cone
2 bobbins.
6 x 6 fabric
Scissors
Page | 78
E. 12 X 6 Top stitch
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE: 6 X 12 TOP STITCH
DURATION: 14 SECS
12
Seam Type
Page | 79
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise :
12 X 6 Top stitch
Starting Position:
Goal: 14 Seconds
Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #5
Illustration:
With both legs on treadle, pressure foot up.

Methodology:
Pick up the fabric from the side at the corners facing
towards you with both hands.
Keep RH side open corner near (under) the needle
make sure of the stitch margin (1/4) using the scale
near needle. Put presser foot down.
Start sewing maintaining straight line & stitch margin.
Stop the needle at 1/4 from both sides. At that time
needle should be down . Turn the fabric 90 Degrees
anticlockwise. Start sewing st line and margin of 1/4.
Keeping needle down at that point , turn fabric 90 deg
anticlockwise and sew off maintaining st. line and
margin Lift the presser foot with knee lift and pull the
fabric with left hand. Take the trimmer with RH and
cut the thread. Time starts right from picking to the
cutting of the thread. No back tack
Security
When placing the fabric under needle, needle should be up.
Quality
Alignment should be proper; stitch should be straight; stitch
margin of 1/4.
Ergonomics
. Trimmers should be small but easy to handle and operate.
Waste
While cutting the thread dont pull more thread.
Abilities Developed
Alignment of parts;
Maintaining the margin without the help of guides
Stopping the machine where ever we want with
needle down.
Hands and eye coordination for faster turning of parts.
Page | 80
Necessary Materials
12x12 Fabric
Trimmer.
Page | 81
F.
Backtack 6x 1`2
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE: BACKTACK
6 12 X 12
DURATION: 20SECS
12
Seam Type
Page | 82
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise :
Backtack 6x 1`2
Starting Position:
Goal: 15 Seconds
Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #6
Illustration:
Place the fabric on your lap, pick up using both hands, let
both feet be on the treadle.
Methodology:
This exercise is carried on the fabric which comes
from the exercise 12x6 top stitch.
Initial markings have to be done on the fabric for
backtacking.
For this fold the given fabric, such that both edges
coincide and crease at the center. Now fold on
the folded fabric, such
that edges coincides & crease.
When the folded fabric is opened, it looks as
indicated in sketch[2].
Now you see three crease lines at A.B,C. Mark
3/8 above and creased line.(A).Repeat above
said step for B and c.
The fabric is ready for backtacking.
Places at which back tacking have to be carried
out are indicated in sketch 4.
Backtack at point-I and sew tilt pcint-2 and at
potnt-2 backtack and sew till -3 and at point-4
backtack and sew till point-5 backtack & stop.
Now the fabric should be as shown in sketch (5J.
At point-5 stop and cut the thread using clipper
and dispose.
Security
the needle.
Use safety glasses.
Quality
Line sewn should be straight and length of backtacking
should be within the boundary with an allowance of one
stitch on either side, i.e. half a stitch outside or inside the
band is ok, no more
Ergonomics
forward.
Waste
Page | 83
Abilities Developed
Pedal control.
Cutting, Disposing and Stacking.
Exact stops.
Backtacking only within the boundary marked
Necessary Materials
SNLS
Thread
Bobbin
12 x 6 fabric
Scissors
Page | 84
G. Baste 6 X 6 in Chain
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE: HEMMING 6 7/8 X 6, INCHAIN
1/2
DURATION: 18SECS
5
Seam Type
Page | 85
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise :
Baste 6 X 6 in Chain
Starting Position:
Goal: 30 Seconds
Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #7
Illustration:
fabric close to the operator.
Methodology:
Take fabric with LH.
Fold fabric lightly on one side.
Move towards machine foot.
Lift machine foot.
Verify the fold is .
Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin.
Lower machine foot.
Sew fabric with rhythm guiding it with the RH while the LH
takes another fabric.
Repeat the previous instructions until 5 pieces are sewn.
Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads.
Security
The needle.
Use safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain a margin of (+-1/16)
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing
forward.
Waste
Page | 86
Abilities Developed

Pedal control.
Exact stops.
Joining and handling of large pieces
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread cone
2 Bobbins
6 x 6 fabric
Scissors
Page | 87
CHAPTER - V
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZE CHART
Page | 88
1.
CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS
GRADE:
SIZE:
1
2
3
4
5
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
Bust:
Waist;
Abdomen:
Hip:
UPPER TORSO (bodice):
Center length:
Front
Back
Full length:
Front
Back
Shoulder slope:
Front
Back
Strap:
Front
Bust depth:
Bust radius
Bust span:
Side length:
Back neck:
Shoulder length:
Across shoulder:
Front
Back
Across chest:
Across back:
Bust arc:
Back arc:
Waist arc:
Front
Back
Dart placement:
LOWER TORSO (Skirt/Pant):
Abdominal arc:
Front
Back
Hip arc:
Front
Back
Crotch depth:
Hip depth:
Center front
Center back
Side hip depth:
Waist to ankle:
Waist to Floor:
Waist to Knee:
Crotch Length
Vertical Trunk
1"
6
34
24
32 1/2
35 1/2
1"
8
35
25
33 1/2
36 1/2
10
36
26
34 1/2
37 1/2
1 1/2"
12
37 1/2
27 1/2
36
39
1 1/2"
14
39
29
37 1/2
40 1/2
1 1/2"
16
40 1/2
30 1/2
39
42
2"
18
42 1/2
32 1/2
41
44
14 1/2
16 3/4
14 3/4
17
15
17 1/4
15 1/4
17 1/2
15 1/2
17 3/4
15 3/4
18
16
18 1/4
17
17 1/4
17 3/8
17 5/8
17 3/4
18
18 1/8
18 3/8
18 1/2
18 3/4
18 7/8
19 1/8
19 1/4
19 1/2
16 1/2
16 1/4
17
16 2/3
17 1/4
17 1/8
17 4/5
17 4/7
18 1/4
18
18 2/3
18 4/9
19 1/8
18 7/8
9 1/2
9
2 3/4
3 1/2
8 1/4
2 3/4
5 1/8
9 3/4
9 1/8
2 7/8
3 5/8
8 3/8
2 7/8
5 1/5
10
9 1/4
3
3 3/4
8 1/2
3
5 1/4
10 3/8
9 3/8
3 1/8
3 7/8
8 5/8
3 1/8
5 3/8
10 3/4
9 1/2
3 1/4
4
8 3/4
3 1/4
5 1/2
11 1/8
9 5/8
3 3/8
4 1/8
8 7/8
3 3/8
5 5/8
11 5/8
10
3
4
9
3
5 4/5
7 1/4
7 3/8
6
6 3/4
9 1/4
8 1/2
7 3/8
7 1/2
61/4
6 7/8
9 1/2
8 3/4
7 1/2
7 5/8
6 3/8
7
9 3/4
9
7 2/3
7 4/5
6 4/7
7 1/5
10 1/8
9 3/8
7 7/8
8
6 3/4
7 3/8
10 1/2
9 3/4
8
8 1/5
7
7 4/7
10 7/8
10 1/8
8 1/3
8 4/9
7 1/5
7 4/5
11 3/8
10 5/8
6 1/4
5 3/4
3
6 1/2
6
3 1/8
6 3/4
6 1/4
3 1/4
7 1/8
6 5/8
3 3/8
7 1/2
7
3 1/2
7 7/8
7 3/8
3 5/8
8 3/8
7 7/8
3
8 1/4
7 1/2
8 1/2
7 3/4
8 3/4
8
9 1/8
8 3/8
9 1/2
8 3/4
9 7/8
9 1/8
10 3/8
9 5/8
8 1/2
9
9 1/2
8 3/4
9 1/4
9 3/4
9
9 1/2
10
9 1/4
9 7/8
10 1/4
9 1/2
10 1/4
10 1/2
10 1/8
10 5/8
10 3/4
10 5/8
11 1/8
11
8 1/2
8 1/4
8 3/4
37
39
22 1/2
24 1/2
60
8 3/4
8 1/2
9
37 1/2
39 1/2
22 5/8
25 1/4
61
9
8 3/4
9 1/4
38
9 1/4
9
9 1/2
38 1/2
40
23 3/8
26 3/4
63 1/2
9 1/2
9 1/4
93/4
39
40
23 3/4
27 1/2
65
9 3/4
9 1/2
10
39 1/2
41 1/2
24 1/8
28 1/4
66 1/2
10
9
10
40
42
24
29
68
23
26
62
Page | 89
28
29
30
31
Upper Thigh
Mid Thigh
Knee
Calf
Ankle
19 1/2
17
13
11
9 1/2
20 1/4
17 1/2
13 1/2
11 1/2
9 3/4
21
18
14
12
10
22
18 3/4
14 1/2
12 1/2
10 1/4
23
19 1/2
15
13
10 1/2
24
20 1/4
15 1/2
13 1/2
10 3/4
25
21
16
14
11
2. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR CHILDREN
AGE GROUP
CHEAST
WAIST
WAIST
LENGTH
ACROSS
BACK
SHORT
SLEEVE
LONG
SLEEVE
FULL
LENGTH
HIP
3-9
MOUNTHS
19''
19''
6''
8''
2 3/4''
6 1/2''
14''
18''
1YEARS
20''
19''-20''
7''
8 1/2''
3''
7''
16''
20''
2YEARS
21''
20''-21''
8''
8 3/4''
3 1/4''
8''
16''
22''
3YEARS
22''
21''
9''
9''
3 1/2''
8 3/4''
20''
24''
4YEARS
23''
22''
9 1/2''
9 1/2''
4''
9 1/2''
20 1/2''
25''
5YEARS
24''
23''
10''
10''
4 1/2''
11''
22''
26 1/2''
6YEARS
24 1/2''
24 1/2''
10 1/2''
10 1/2''
4 3/4''
11 1/2''
22 1/2''
27''
7YEARS
25''
25''
11''
11''
5''
12''
23-24''
27 1/2''
8YEARS
26''
25''
11 1/2''
11 1/2''
5 1/2''
12 1/2''
24 1/2''
28''
9YEARS
27''
25''
12''
12''
6''
13''
26 1/2''
28 1/0''
10 YEARS
28''
26''
12 1/2''
12 1/2''
6 1/2''
13 1/2''
26 1/2-27 ''
29''
11YEARS
28''
28 1/2''
13''
13''
7''
14''
27''
30''
3. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR TEENAGERS

AGE
GROUP
12-13YEARS
14-15 YEARS
16-17 YEARS
18-19 YEARS
CHEAST
30''
32''
34''
35''
WAIST
24''
25''
25 1/2''
26''
CENTER
BACK
12 1/2''
13''
13 1/2''
14''
WAIST
LENGTH
12 1/2''
13 1/2''
14 1/2''
15''
HIP
32''
34''
36''
37''
SLEEVE
LENGTH
16 1/2''
17''
17 1/2''
18''
Page | 90
CHAPTER - VI
MACHINE MAINTAINANCE & SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Page | 91
A. Safety- Rules
Safety is important to everyone and it is your responsibility to maintain a safe working place.
To maintain a safe environment, learn these safety rules and practice them at all times.
When in doubt, ask the instructor
Report any injuries or accidents immediately to the instructor.
Report a breakage to a tool or machine to the instructor. If the equipment does not operate
properly, notify the instructor immediately.
Wipe up any oil specified on the floor immediately to prevent anyone from slipping.
Keep aisles clear at all times.
Operate only the machines you have been trained to operate.
Operate machine. only when the instructor or laboratory assistant is present.
Operate machines only with permission.
Always inspect the machine before starting to work. Be sure it is clean and threaded
correctly, with no loose threads on the pulley belt and all guards in place.
Make only adjustments you have been trained to perform. Otherwise, as the instructor.
When sewing on a power machine, wear low shoes and close-fitting clothing. Avoid loose
fitting sleeves, sweaters, jewelry, ties, and ribbons when operating the machine. If your hair
is long, tie it back.
Always practice proper posture to reduce fatigue, help prevent accidents and increase
efficiency. If possible, adjust the chair height 5) that your feet rest flat on the floor.
Do not I your chair forward or toward while operate he machine.
Use both hands to raise and lower the machine head.
Always keep your head above the table.
Keep your feet off the treadle when you are setting or threading the needle.
Turn the motor off before you are not stitching.
Turn the motor off before cleaning, Oiling or adjusting the machine.
Page | 92
Turn the motor off before removing or replacing the pulley belt and run the machine out.
Waft until all motion has stopped.
Turn the motor off in case of an emergency or when in doubt.
Turn the motor off before unplugging the machine.
When unplugging the machine, hold onto the plug, not the cord.
Do not use your hand to stop and start the hand wheel.
Use your hand only to set the hand wheel.
Before operating the machine, close the slide bed cover.
Before operating the machine, be sure the needle is properly set and the bobbin is properly
placed.
When operating the machine, do not be careless~
When operating the machine, do not talk with your colleagues.
When operating the machine, keep your attention on your work and hands.
When operating the machine, keep your hands at a safe distance from the needle.
When operating the machine, keep your hands, scissors, and other sharp objects away from
the belt.
Keep the machine and work station clean with an tools in the side drawer.
Use the proper needle for the job.
Do not stitch over pins or put them in your mouth.
When the machine is not in use, lower the foot and needle.
Three-way plugs are a safety feature on the machines. Do not cut off the ground prong.
Unplug the machine at the end of the day.
Know the location of the main power switch, outlets, and fuses in case of an emergency.
Do not remove any safety devices from the machines.
Turn off the iron at the of the class.
Always place the iron on the iron pad to avoid scorching the ironing board cover.
Always place the industrial iron flat on the iron pad to avoid knocking it over.
Page | 93
When trimming or cutting, put all trimmings in the wastebasket.

Scissors should be handed to another person with the handles toward the person.
Never toss or throw scissors or equipment.
Do not eat, drink, or smoke in the work area.
B. Important safety instructions

Putting sewing systems into operation is prohibited until it has been ascertained that the sewing
systems in which these sewing machines will be built into, have conformed with the safety
regulations in your country.
Technical service for those sewing systems is also prohibited.
Observe the basic safety measures, including, but not limited to the following ones,
whenever you use the machine.
Read all the instructions, including, but not limited to this Instruction Manual before you use
the machine.
In addition, keep this Instruction Manual so that you may read it at anytime when necessary.
Use the machine after it has been ascertained that it conforms with safety rules/standards
valid in your Country.
All safety devices must be in position when the machine is ready for work or in operation.
The operation without the specified safety devices is not allowed.
This machine shall be operated by appropriately-trained operators.
For your personal protection, we recommend that you wear safety glasses.
For the following, turn off the power switch or disconnect the power plug of the machine
from the receptacle.
For threading needle(s), looper, spreader etc. and replacing bobbin.
For replacing part(s) of needle, presser foot, throat plate, looper, spreader, feed dog, needle
guard, folder, cloth guide etc.
For repair work.
When leaving the working place or when the working place is unattended.
When using clutch motors without applying brake, it has to be waited until the motor
stopped totally.
If you should allow oil, grease, etc. used with the machine and devices to come in contact
with your eyes or
Page | 94
skin or swallow any of such liquid by mistake, immediately wash the contacted areas and
consult a medical doctor.
Tampering with the live parts and devices, regardless of whether the machine is powered, is
prohibited.
Repair, remodeling and adjustment works must only be done by appropriately trained
technicians or
General maintenance and inspection works have to be done by appropriately
trained
personnel.
Page | 95
C. Machine adjustments and control

Adjusting the Stitch Length Regulator
The stitch length regulator controls the distance that the feed dogs move the material to the
back of the machine to make a single stitch. On newer machines, the stitch length regulator is often
a large knob or a lever on the front of the machine, making It easy to regulate. On older machines
however, the stitch length regulator is more difficult to locate and reset and ft rarely has a guide
indicating the setting.
On most newer machines, the length of each stitch is Indicated In millimeters (mm). On
other machines, the number of stitches per inch(SPI) is Indicated. This latter method is easier to use
when adjusting the stitch length regulator.
These general directions can be used for most machines, however, when a machine manual
is available, ft is always wise to review the directions in it.
1. Begin with the power switch on arid the machine unthreaded. Place a piece of paper under
the foot and stitch a straight line about 3 long.
2. Remove the paper from the machine. Mark off 2(5cm), placing the first mark midway
between two needle perforations. Begriming at the first perforation following the first mark,
count the number of perforations between the two marks. If the second line is between two
perforations, add an additional perforation.
3. To determine the number of stitches per inch (SPI), divide the number of perforations by
two - the number of inches stitched. There are 20 perforations between the two marks,
there are 10 SPI.
4. To determine the number of stitches per centimeter (SPO), divide by five - the number of
centimeters stitched. If there are 20 perforations between the two lines, there are 4 SPC.
5. To determine the number of millimeters in a stitch, divide the number of millimeters in a
stitch, divide the number of millimeters (10) In a centimeter by the number of SPO
(stitches/cm). If there are 4 SPC, each stitch Is 2.5mm (4 divided by 10) long.
6. Set the stitch length to 2.5mm or 1OSPL. Stitch 3. Mark off a 2 section, then count the
stitches to confirm the accuracy of the setting. Repeat to set the stitch length to 1.5mm (17
SPI), 2 (12 SPI). 3mm (8.8SPI), and 4 mm (6 SPI). Record your measurements In Table.
No. of stitches/ inch = 8
Page | 96
Stitch Length Measurements

Machine
Stitch length
Setting
301
1mm
301
1.5mm
301
2mm
301
2.5mm
301
3mm
301
4mm
No. of Stitches
per inch
Testing the tension

For most stitching, a
desired. When the tension
of the material to make a
elastic without being loose,
stressed.
Balanced Tension
balance tension or
is balanced, the threads
perfect or balanced stitch.
and there is no seam grin
Tight upper tension
balanced stitch is
interlock in the middle
The seam is flat and
when the seam is
Tight lower tension
If there is too much pressure on the tension discs, not enough thread is fed into the stitching and the
tension is right. The material puckers the seam is strained, and the stitches break. If there is too little
pressure, too much thread is fed, the tension is too loose, and the seam is loose and weak.
When the tension on the top, or needle, thread is too tight or the tension on the bottom or bobbin
thread is too loose, the top thread lies along the surface of the material and the bobbin thread forms
loops on the top.
Page | 97
When the tension on the top, or needle, thread is too loose or the bottom, or bobbin, thread is too
tight, the bottom thread lies along the underside of the material and the top thread forms loops on
the underside.
Adjusting the tension

The tension of the stitch is regulated by two controls: the upper tension regulator and the bobbin
case tension screw. The upper tension regulator is located on the front of the machine and adjusts
the tension discs.
The bobbin case tension screw, which is located on the bobbin case controls the tightness of the
bobbin case spring. These controls increase or decrease the amount of pressure on the threads as
they fed through the machine.
Because the structure, texture, thickness, density, and resiliency of the material and the size and
type of the thread affect the tension, the tension settings will vary with the material and the thread
size and type. Test the tension before beginning a garment or sewing with a different fabric, thread,
or machine.
1. Identity the upper tension regulator and the bobbin case tension screw.
2. Set the stitch length for 2 mm (128P1). Turn the upper tension regulator to the right 1/4 to
1/2 turn.
3. Fold one muslin rectangle in half crosswise and stitch on the straight grain about 1/2 from
the edge.
4. Examine the stitching to determine whether the stitching is balanced or unbalanced. If the
needle tension is tight the needle thread lies flat on the top ply and loops of the bobbin
Page | 98
thread are visible, If the bobbin tension Is tight, the bobbin thread lies flat and the loops of
the needle thread are visible.
5. Adjust the bobbin tension first. To determine if it needs an adjustment, place the filled
bobbin In the bobbin case. Hold the end of the bobbin thread and jerk the thread slightly. It
should drop several Inches. If it slides freely down the thread, it needs more tension; if
doesnt slide, it needs less.
a. If it needs an adjustment, use a small screwdriver to loosen the screw on the bobbin
case. For more tension, turn the screw in small increments and no more than 1/4
turn between tests.
b. Caution: The bobbin case screw is very short and will fall out if turned too far.
6. To adjust the needle thread tension turn the tension regulator to the left to loosen it; turn it
to the right to tighten.
7. Adjust the tensions only as needed until the stitch is balanced.
8. Experiment with stitching on a variety of fabrics.
Machine Maintenance
In the apparel industry, a clean, well-oiled machine is essential for safety and good performance, the
same is true in the classroom. Generally cleanliness is the responsibility of the operators, including
students who use the machines. The machines are given a quick cleaning after every eight hours of
operation and a thorough cleaning once a week. When sewing materials that produce a lot of lint,
the machines are cleaned more frequently.
Machine maintenance is also important in preventing stitching faults. Although stitching faults can
be caused by the material, machine, or operator, most can be corrected by cleaning the machine, rethreading it, and/or changing the needle.
In most plants, a quick cleaning is done by the operators once a day, but the responsibility for the
more thorough cleaning varies from plant to plant. In some factories, it is done by the operators on
Friday afternoon. In others, it is done by a mechanic - often, when the operators are not working.
Cleaning the Machine

When cleaning the machine, clean everything - the machine mechanism, machine table and stand,
your tools, work station area, and even your hands - to avoid soiling the materials being sewn,
prevent accidents, and avoid wear and damage to the machine.
These directions focus on the lockstitch machine, but they can easily be adapted for other machine
types.
Materials/Supplies
Paint brush (1/2 wide)

Clear disposable cloth or clean rag
Screwdriver
Sewing machine manual (when available)
Page | 99
Air hose or industrial vacuum cleaner (when available)
Caution: Before cleaning any machine, turn off the machine and run it out.
1. Open the slide and remove the bobbin case, and then remove the throat plate. Occasionally
remove the face plate from the left end of the head.
2. Brush or blow away any lint, dust, or loose threads in the area around the feed dogs and
rotary hook or shuttle. Do not use anything hard, such as a screw driver or scissor points, to
remove the lint. When cleaning the over lock machine, open the cloth plate and looper
cover to blow out any lint in those areas. On the blind stitch machine, open the plate to
expose and clean the area around the spreader.
3. Turn the hand wheel manually to expose any areas that might have been hidden initially;
brush again.
4. Carefully tilt the machine head back until the head rests on the post on the back of the table.
5. Brush out any lint, dust, or threads in the lower part of the machine. Use a rag to remove
any lint on the machines mechanism, excess oil in the pan, and, if appropriate, the oil pump
screen.
6. If the machine is not self-oiling, consult the manual for oiling directions. If the manual is not
available, place one drop of oil on each moving part on the lower mechanism.
7. Press the knee lift to the right and lower the machine head into position.
8. Replace all plates and screws.
9. Oil the upper mechanism by placing a c p of oil in each oil bole
10. Replace the bobbin case.
11. Check the needle to be sure it is clean and the eye is not clogged.
12. Replace the needle if necessary.
13. Wipe away any excess oil or dust on the head, machine bed, thread stand, motor, table and
stand.
14. If there is lint between the tension discs and in the thread guides, use thread to floss the
tension discs and remove any lint.
15. If you have oiled the machine, sew on a few scraps to remove any excess oil.
16. Wash your hands after cleaning and oiling the machine.
17. At the end of the day, put a piece of stitching patch under the foot, lower the foot, cover the
machine, and pick up any trash.
Page | 100
CHAPTER - VII
NEEDLE
Page | 101
1. SELECTION OF NEEDLE
Basic Skills
To use Industrial machinery efficiently, you should be able to select and set a needle; adjust
the stitch length regulator, pressure regulator, and knee lift; Identify balanced tension and adjust as
needed; and select appropriate thread.
Setting the Needle

In the apparel industry, there are literally thousands of different machines, each requiring a different
needle type. On most newer machines, the needle type for that particular machine is identified on
the machine head. However, each needle manufacturer identified its needles in a different way; the
needles for the same type of system may have several different names or numbers, depending on
the manufacturer.
Directions:
1. Begin with the power switch off. Hand wheel until the needle moves machines; you will turn
the counterclockwise - the direction operating.
2. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to loosen the screw in the needle bar just enough to
release the needle.
Changing the needle

3. Remove the needle from the needle bar. If the needle is broken, remove any broken parts
that may have dropped into the machine. If part of the shank remains in the needle bar after
the screw is loosened, tap the needle bar with the handle of the screwdriver. If it still does
not Fall out, turn the machine on, raise the presser foot, and stitch slowly until the vibration
causes the needle
to drop out.
Page | 102
4. Dispose of the needle safely.

5. Note To make a safe container for disposing needles; punch a small hole in the top of a
discarded film container.
6. Check the new needle for straightness by rolling it on the machine table. If the needle is
straight, the blade of the needle will remain parallel to the table surface when it is rolled.
Check the needle point for burrs by running your fingertip over the point.
7. To check the needle and thread compatibility, thread the needle with a short length of
thread. Hold the thread taut at each end in vertical position. The needle should spin slowly
dawn and around the thread. If It slides slowly down and around the thread. If it slides too
quickly or does not slide at all, try a different size needle or select another thread.
8. Use your thumbnail to locate the long groove on the needle. This will help you to set the
needle correctly.
9. Hold the new needle between your right thumb and forefinger at the base of the shank
where the groove begins.
10. Locate the last thread guide on the needle bar. On straight-stitch machines, the guide is
generally to the left of the needle. Insert the needle into the needle bar so that the groove is
facing the side with the last thread guide (left) and the eye is in line with the arm of the
machine. Check to be sure the needle is inserted into the needle bar as high as possible.
11. Tighten the needle bar screw.
12. Tighten the machine and stitch slowly. If the needle is positioned correctly, there will be no
skipped stitches and no unexpected noises. If it is not set properly, remove the needle and
reset it.
Reasons to Change a Needle

There are many reasons for changing the needle. Some of them are:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
The needle is damaged: bent, burred, or broken.

The needle is dull and makes a popping sound when stitching
The thread breaks frequently during stitching.
The machine is skip stitching.
A different thread size is required.
A different fabric is sewn with a different weight, thickness and construction.
Page | 103
2. PART OF THE MACHINE NEEDLS

1. Butt: A small pyramid at the upper end of the shank. It is
designed to make a single-point contact with the hole in the
needle bar.
2. Shank: The upper end of the needle that is held in the needle
bar by the needle screw. The shank is usually round, but it can
have one or two flat sizes. Designed to support and stabilize the
needle blade, the diameter of the shank is usually larger than
the diameter of the blade.
3. Shoulder: The beginning of the shank just above the needle
blade.
4. Blade: The thin section of the needle that extends from the
shank to the eye. It is easily bent and should be examined for
straightness periodically.
5. Scarf (needle scarf, clearance above the eye, clearance cut, or
spot): A small indentation above the eye that permits the hook
or looper to pick up the thread loop. On some needles, the scarf
is elongated and/or deeper to ensure that the needle thread
loop will be large enough to prevent skip stitching.
6. Land: A small hump on the blade immediately above the eye.
Used instead of a scarf, its purpose is to enable the needle
thread to make a larger loop and form a stitch.
7. Eye: An opening in the needle blade at the lower end of the
long groove that carries the thread into the material to the
hook or looper to make a stitch. The size of the eye is
proportional to the diameter of the blade.
8. Point: The tapered end. It is often considered the most
critical aspect of the needle. The most common needles have a
round point, a ballpoint, or a cutting point as shown on page 44.
Generally round points and ballpoints are used for woven and
knit fabrics because they can penetrate the fabric by spreading
the fibers or deflecting the yarns without damaging them. By
contrast, needles with cutting points are used for leather.
9. Tip: The part of the needle that pierces the material.
10. Needle groove (long groove): A g channel on the black it is located on the side on which the need
dread enters the eye a provides a Protective guide for the thread when the needle is rising and the
needle- thread loop is enlarging.
Page | 104
11. Short groove: A short channel immediately above the needle eye. Located on the side opposite
the long groove, it is a guide for the needle thread and protects it from abrading when passing
through the material.
Needle Selection
Once the needle system type Is determined, the needle selection - its needle point and size depends primarily on the characteristics of the fabric, but also on the thread, seam type,
and stitch type.
Needle point
The needle point is determined by the fabric weight and its structure. Round points have a conical
shape designed to spread the yarns without breaking them; they are used for most woven and many
knitted materials.
Ballpoint needles have a rounded point and range from light to heavy. They are generally used for
knits and stretch fabrics and sometimes for button sewing because they center most misaligned
buttons and do not cut existing stitches.
Cutting points have sharp cutting edges; they are used on leather, suede, and neoprene.
Needle Size
The needle size can be as small as 60 (0-6mm) or as large as 250 (2.5 mm). The metric size describes
the diameter of the needle blade in hundredths of a millimeter. The needle size is determined by the
thread size.
If the needle is too fine, it will abrade the thread bend, break, affect the loop formation, and cause
skipped stitches. if it is too course, it will damage the fabric, produce an unattractive seam, cause the
seam to pucker, affect the loop formation, and cause skipped stitches.
Generally the best choice is the smallest size that will not skip stitches.
Round point
Ball point
Leather point
Page | 105
3. STANDARD NEEDLES
The configuration of these needles is based on the particular fabric to be sewn.
Universal needle
Ballpoint and stretch needles
Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics.
Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser

sweater knits; stretch needle for highly elastic
fabrics, like
Spandex, or Lycra.
Configuration: Has slightly rounded point

and elongated scarf to enable almost
foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin
hook.
Troubleshooting: When fabric is not
medium-weight woven, consider needle
specifically suited to fabric. For example, size
18 universal needle works on heavy denim,
but size 18 jeans needle works better.
Configuration: Both have rounded points that

penetrate between fabric threads rather than
pierce them. (Stretch-needle point is slightly
less rounded than ballpoint.)
Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with
ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to see
which doesn't cut yarn and yields best results. If
ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle.
Page | 106
Microtex
and
sharp
needles
Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic

leather; precisely stitching edges; and
heirloom
sewing.
Configuration:
Has
an
acute
point.
Leather needle
Uses: Excellent for sewing natural
leather.
Configuration: Has slight cutting point
(almost like an arrowhead).
Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free,

but fabric may require a Teflon, roller, or
even/dual-feed presser foot.
Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather,

unless it's very heavy synthetic, cuts
rather than pierces stitch hole and can
tear leather. Most synthetic leathers
require Microtex or sharp needle.
Denim (jeans) needle
Handicap/self-threading needle
Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck,

canvas, upholstery fabrics, artificial
leather, and vinyl.
Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers

with vision problems.
Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute

point, and modified shaft to sew without
pushing fabric down into needle-plate
hole. Goes through fabric and meets
bobbin hook better on dense woven
fabrics.
Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when
sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle and
sew more slowly or walk needle through fabric
(by turning hand crank).
Configuration: Universal needle with slipin threading slot at the eye.

Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece
back away from needle before cutting
thread so needle doesn't unthread.
Needle works well on woven fabrics, but
may occasionally snag knits, so test-sew
to check for fabric and needle
compatibility.
Decorative needles
The configuration is designed to wed thread to fabric for surface embellishment.
Page | 107
Topstitching needle
Embroidery needle
Uses: Topstitching.
Uses: Machine embroidering or

embellishing with decorative thread.
Configuration: Has extra-acute point,

extra-large eye, and large groove for heavy
thread.
Troubleshooting: Use smallest size needle
that accommodates your thread to avoid
punching large holes in fabric.
Configuration: Has light point (neither

sharp nor ballpoint) and enlarged eye to
keep decorative threads from shredding or
breaking, and prevent skipped stitches.
Troubleshooting: If thread still shreds on
dense or heavily stitched design, use larger
size needle or Metallica needle.
Metallic needle
Quilting needle
Uses: Sewing with decorative metallic

threads.
Uses: Piecing, quilting, and stippling.
Configuration: Has universal or standard

point; large, elongated eye; and large
groove to allow fragile metallic and
synthetic filament threads to flow
smoothly.
Troubleshooting: Metallic threads are very
sensitive to problems in machine: Tiniest
burr on thread path or needle can cause
problems.
Configuration: Has special tapered shaft to

prevent damaging fabrics when stitching
multiple layers.
Troubleshooting: Move fabric smoothly
without pulling on needle when freemotion stitching to prevent breaking
needle.
Special-purpose needles
These needles are used only with front-to-back threading machines with zigzag features. Make sure
your throat-plate needle hole is wide enough to accommodate needle's width, and zigzag width
function is set at zero to prevent sideways movement.
Page | 108
Hemstitch (wing) needle
Twin (double) needle
Uses: Hemstitching or heirloom

embroidery on linen and batiste.
Uses: Topstitching, pin tucking, and

decorative stitching.
Configuration: Has fins on sides of shank

to create holes as you sew.
Configuration: Two needles on single shaft

produce two rows of stitches.
Measurement between needles ranges
from 1.6mm to 6mm, and needles come
with universal, stretch, embroidery,
denim, and Metallica points.
Troubleshooting: Stitch is more effective

when needle returns to same needle
hole more than once. If needle pushes
fabric into needle hole, put stabilizer
under fabric.
Troubleshooting: Be sure throat plate

allows for distance between needles.
Triple needle
Spring needle
Uses: Same uses as for double needle.
Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped

feed dogs.
Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft

connects three needles to sew three
stitching rows. Comes with universal
point in 2.5mm and 3mm widths.
Troubleshooting: Same as for double
needle.
Configuration: Has wire spring above point

to prevent fabrics from riding up onto
needle, eliminating need for presser foot.
Troubleshooting: Before using, practice
free-motion stitching with heavy regular
needle, paper, and dropped feed dogs.
Don't pull paper/fabric; instead gently
guide it through stitching. Wear safety
glasses for free-motion work, since needles often
break.
Page | 109
4. TYPE OF NEEDLE AND THEIR USE
s.no Types of Sewing Machines

1
Needle
System
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machines

DA X 1or DB X 1
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Automatic Thread
Trimmer
DA X 1or DB X 1
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Fabric Edge
Trimmer
DA X 1or DB X 1
Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine
DP X 5
Single Needle Lock Stitch Zigzag Machine
THREE Thread Over Lock Machine
FIVE thread Over Lock With Safety Stitch Machine
DB X 1
DC X 1 or DC X
27
DC X 1 or DC X
27
Button Hole Machine
DP X 5
Chain Stitch Button Stitch Machine
TQ X 1 or TV X 7
10
Lock Stitch Button Stitch Machine
TQ X 1 or TV X 7
11
Inter Lock/Flat Lock Machine
UY X 1 or GAS
12
Feed Of The Arm Machine For Denim
TV X 1 or TV X 7
13
One &Two Needle Chain Stitch Machine
TV X 1 or TV X 7
14
Blind Stitch Machine
LW X 6T
Page | 110
5. NEEDLE SIZE AND RELEVANCE OF TYPE OF THE MATERIAL TO BE STICHED

S.No
Needle Size
Type Of Material
#9 to #11
Light Weight Materials Like silk synthetic, knitwear
#14 to #16
Medium Weight Materials Like Textile, natural fabrics etc..
#18 to #20
Heavy weight materials like denim etc..
#22& onwards
Extra Heavy weight materials like leather etc..
Classification of needle according to point

1. Normal round point needle
They are used for woven materials etc example; DB X 1
2. Light ball point needles

They are used for thin material, silk etc., & button hole sewing. Example: DP x Si
3. Medium ball point needles

They are used for hosiery material etc., Example: IJY 128 GAS
4. Heavy ball point needles

They are used for sewing heavy weight materials like rubber etc.
5. Stub point needles

They are used for sewing buttons.
Feed dog Variations

Very light weight materials
Fine toothed feed dogs with a pitch of only 1.0 to 125 mm to be used to avoid feed
damage (pitch = distance between two points in feed dog.)
Light to medium weight material
Tooth pitch of 1.3 to 11.6 mm and the peaks of the teeth slightly rounded off to avoid
damage on fine material
Heavy weight material
To keep the both plies together while sewing coarser feed dog of 2.5mm tooth pitch is
needed
Page | 111
Delicate fabric
Even after rounding of teeth tip damage may be caused to rubber coated feed dog with no
sharp teeth at all may be used
STANDARD ADJUSTMENTS:
I)
Lock stitch machines

A) Single Needle Lock Stitch
1. Needle bar height
2.
hook timing and clearance
3.
Feed dog height and centering
4.
Feed timing.
B) Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine
1. Difference between split needle bar and non-split needle bar.
2. Needle bar height
3. Hook timing and clearance
Page | 112
CHAPTER - VIII
SEWING THREAD AND SELECTION CRITERIA
Page | 113
Sewing thread is usually less than 1/1000th of the weight of apparel, but it carries more one
half the responsibilities for its performance
THREAD SELECTION
FACTORES IN THREAD SELECTION
Garment design, type, quality, end use, and life expectancy

Desired strength and durability
Fabric weight and type
Stitch and seam type, number of stitches/inch, machine speed, and needle size
Cost
Thread Properties
Threads are used to form the stitches that hold the fabric parts Together. They can be
described by fiber type, constriction, and size
Fiber Type
Threads can be made from a single fiber type such as cotton, linen, silk, rayon, nylon,
polyester, or rubber or from a combination of fibers such as cotton/polyester.
Natural fiber threads

The most common natural fiber used for threads, cotton threads, have excellent sewabllity
with little kinking or skip stitching. They are rarely affected by hot needles - a common element of
high-speed sewing machines-and even sew well on poorly adjusted machines.
Cotton threads dye well, and since they mold to the fabric better than other fibers, they are
particularly attractive for topstitched elements. Compared to synthetic threads, their strength and
resistance to abrasion is inferior, and they shrink and mildew when wet.
Cotton threads are produced with three finishes: soft, glace and mercerized.
Soft finish threads receive no additional processing except bleaching and dyeing. Used on
inexpensive garments, they are relatively inexpensive with good sewabllity but because they have a
high shrinkage, seam pucker] fl g is frequently a problem after washing.
Page | 114
Glace threads are treated with wax and special chemicals for a hard, glossy finish. They are stronger,
more resistant to abrasion, and stiffer than other cotton threads. They are available in a limited
color selection and used for gathering and for sewing heavy materials, leather, vinyl, and canvas.
Mercerized threads are treated with a caustic solution to create a smooth, strong, lustrous
thread. They are frequently used on cotton garments that will be dyed.
Linen and silk threads are rarely used in production because of their high cost.
Synthetic threads
The most common synthetic threads, polyester and nylon, were developed to perform well
on synthetic fabrics and withstand the chemicals and heat of durable press treatments. Compared to
cotton threads of the same size, they are stronger, more resistant to abrasion, mildew and
ultraviolet radiation, and have less shrinkage.
Combination fibers
One of the most common threads in use today is a combination of cotton and polyester, which
combines the sew ability of cotton with polyesters strength and resistance to abrasion.
Thread construction
Although there are a variety of thread constructions, most threads used in garments are twisted,
core spun, monofilament, or textured.
Twisted threads
All natural fibers, with the exception of silk, begin with fibers - short lengths of staple, which
are twisted together to make a single-ply thread. Then two or more plies are twisted together in the
reverse direction to make a sewing thread with a balanced. Twist Without this balance, the thread
could not be controlled.
Twist Direct
Z - Twist
S - Twist
Most threads are finished with a Z or left twist because the action of the lockstitch machine would
cause threads with an 8 twist to unwind
Page | 115
One exception is the double-needle lockstitch, which has two bobbins one revolving to the left and
one to the right. This type of machine requires threads with both twists.
In addition to the natural fibers, polyester, silk, and nylon filaments cut or broken Into staple lengths.
Spun polyester thread is one of the most common.
Core spun
Core spun threads begin with a continuous filament of polyester, which is then wrapped with a
cotton or polyester sheath to make a single-ply thread.
Then the two to four plies are twisted together to make the sewing thread
Cotton/poly threads have the advantage of better sew ability, while poly/poly
Threads can be dyed in a one-step process.
Monofilament Threads
Monofilament is simply a single filament of nylon of polyester. It is stiff,
wiry, and unravels easily. It is uncomfortable next to the skin and harsh on
machines. Available only in clear, light and dark gray, monofilament Threads are translucent and
reflect the fabrics color. Monofilament threads are used primarily for blind hemming and surging
inexpensive garments and Household textiles.
Textured Threads
Made of multifilament that have been crimp textured or bulked by twisting, crimping, and
untwisting, textured threads have a soft Land, good coverage, and elasticity. The most common use
of textured threads is in the loopers of over edge and cover stitch machines; however, very fine sizes
can be used as needle threads on chain stitch and over edge machines. They can also be used as
bobbin threads to add moderate stretch to a lock stitched seam.
Thread Size
The thread size is dependent on many factors - such as the fabric weight and type, stitch and seam
type, machine speed, needle size, end use,
and seam strength.
Most threads are sized using the Tex system or the cotton count system. The Tex system, which is
generally used in manufacturing, is a direct system, arid the number increases with the thread size.
The cotton system; and the number decrease with the thread size. Generally it is easier to
comparing the Tex numbers when comparing threads with different constructions F example, a core
spun thread ha size 100 is equivalent to spun polyester thread in size 70 (T-27); and it is larger than
spun polyester in size 100 (T-21) and textured polyester in size 150 (T.-18).
If your retailer does not stock threads with a Tex number designation, you can substitute other
good quality threads. Long staple polyester, cotton- wrapped polyester, and mercerized cotton
threads are suitable for general sewing on most fabrics. For very lightweight fabrics, use fine cotton
embroidery thread (60/2) or fine cotton-wrapped polyester. For heavier fabrics, use topstitching
thread or buttonhole twist.
The Needle Size Chart from American & Efird, Inc. provides a useful guide for selecting compatible
needles and threads. However, it Is important to remember that this is the minimum recommended
needle size and that a larger needle may be required for the fabric or application.
Page | 116
CHAPTER - IX
TYPES OF STITCHES & SEAM
Page | 117
1.
STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS
How a stitch is formed

The formation of a stitch begins when the needle penetrates the fabric and descends to its
lowest point.
The bobbin hook then slides by the needle's scarf, catching the upper thread, and carries it
around the bobbin and bobbin thread.
The thread is then pulled up into the fabric, completing the stitch.
Each category of sewing machine produces a specific type of stitch formation depending on the
number of needles, looper, and threads which combine to construct the stitch. Each of these
configurations is known as a stitch type and they are classified according to their main
characterization.
Page | 118
A. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS
Class 100 - Chain stitch
One of the simplest stitch types, the chain stitch has one or more needle threads and is formed
by Intra looping. This stitch is very Insecure and unravels easily if a stitch is broken or skipped or if
the last loop is not fastened securely. This stitch is used for sewing buttons and buttonholes,
hemming, basting and pad stitching.
Class 200 - Rand Stitch

Generally formed by hand, the hand stitch is made with a needle that is passed from one side of
the material to the other as a single line of thread. The most important machine to duplicate this
stitch is a pick stitching machine, which is used as a decorative detail on the other edges of jackets.
Class 300 - Lockstitch

The most common stitch type, the lockstitch has two or more groups of threads that interlace to
form the stitch. One group is called the needle threads and the other the bobbin threads. These
stitches do not unravel easily and always require a bobbin. Very versatile, they are used for seaming,
hemming, and setting zippers and pockets.
Class 400 - Multi Thread Chain stitch

Sometimes called a double-locked stitch, the multithread chain stitch has two or more groups of
threads that interlace and interloop with each other. One group is called the needle threads and the
other the looper threads. This stitch is actually stronger than the lockstitch; however, if the threads
are not properly secured on the finishing end, it will unravel. It is used for seaming and in
combination with the over edge stitch on over lock machines. When used for seaming, the needle
thread determines the seam strength and the looper threads can be finer.
Class 500 - Over edge Stitch

The over edge stitch is formed with one or more groups of threads that interloop to form a
thread sheath around the fabric edge. The most common stitches have one or two needle threads
and one or two looper threads.
Overedge stitches are v elastic and do not in unravel easily. They are for neatening edges
trimming woven and low stretch knitted fabrics and decorative edgings. All of the stitches can be
used for neatening; however, one and two-thread overedge stitches cannot be used for seaming
because the stitch opens up when stressed transversely. And, since the stitches produce a closed
seam that cannot be pressed open, it is not always acceptable on better garments. When used for
seaming, the needle thread determines the seam strength.
This stitch is frequently combined with a multithread. Chain stitch (401) to seam and finish the
edges.
Class 600 Cover stitch

The most complex stitch class, the cover stitch is generally formed with three or more
groups of threads that cover the raw edges of both surfaces. Very elastic, It is used to create low bulk and decorative seams on underwear and knitted casual garments. Threads should be strong
with a soft hand.
Page | 119
Chain stitch (class100)
Hand stitch (class 200)
Bobbin Thread
Bobbin Thread
Needle Thread
Needle Thread
Lock stitch (Class 300)
Multi-thread Chain stitch (Class 400)
Bobbin Thread
Looper Thread
Needle Thread
Needle Thread
Over edge Stitch (Class 500)
Lower Looper Thread
Upper Looper Thread
Cover Stitch (Class 600)
Lower Looper Thread
Needle Thread
Page | 120
2. SEAM TYPES AND CLASSIFICATIONS

Seams are basic element of construction formed when two or more pieces of material are sewn
together, they are used for joining garment sections In the production of sewn products.
The success of every garment depends on the accuracy and skill with which the seams join the
Individual components of the garment
Factors in the selection of Seam Type and Application
1.
Garment design, type, quality, end use, and care.
2.
Fabric type, bulk, texture, weight transparency, and tendency to fray.
3.
Desired strength and durability.
4.
Difficulty of construction and skill of the operators.
5.
Equipment available.
6.
Cost of labor and materials.
7.
Retail price.
8.
Designer or manufacturer preference.
9.
Current fashion trends.
Page | 121
SEAM CLASSIFICATION
As per the British standard 3870, Part 1 - 1991 seams may classified Into eight types.
Class 1 Super imposed Seam
French Seam
Piped Beam
Class 2 Lapped Seam
Lap felled Seam
Welted Seam
Class 3 Bound Seam
Class 4 Flat Seam
Class 5 Decorative Seam
Class 6 Edge neatening
Class 7 Addition of other Seams
Class 8 Belt loops

General Guide for Seam Allowances
Generally the following seam allowances are used in apparel construction, but it must be
remembered that this is only a guide and will not be appropriate for every design and fabric.
1/8 to 3/8 Enclosed seams at edges that have separate facings, mach as necklines, collars,
cuffs, and armholes, and on intricate curves. The narrowest (1/8) seam allowances can be
used on lightweight fabrics that do not fray, while the widest (3/8) are used as loosely
woven S fabrics and fabrics that ravel easily.
3/8 to 1/2 Sleeves, yokes, waistlines, gores, style lines within the silhouette, center lines,
top-stitched seams, cut-out darts, cuff/sleeve seams, band/skirt seams, inseams, and side
seams on budget and moderately priced garments.
3/4 to 1: Vertical seams on better garments, zipper plackets, and darts.
Page | 122
3. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MEN`S SHIRT
Counterstich sleeve
Attach sleeve
Sew front fly to left front
Sew button on front
Sew pocket
Sew buttonhole on front
Sew button to top of front & cuff
Sew side & under sleeve
Sew buttonhole to top of front & cuff
Sew yoke to back
Runstitch cuff
Page | 123
4. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MENS`S TROUSER
Attach zipper to left fly

Make belt loop
Sew button to fly & hip pocket
Serge front & back
Sew eyelet buttonhole
Bartack eyelet buttonhole end
Sew belt loop to waist band
Sew belt loop bottom
Sew hip pocket welt to back
Sew side
Page | 124
5. SEAMS & STITCHES OF DENIM TROUSER
Hem ticket pocket

Sew eyelet buttonhole
Topstitch waist band corner
Sew waist band
Serge side pocket facing
Topstitch left front fly
Sew inseam
Hem bottom
Sew side
Bartack front fly
Sew belt loop
Make belt loop
Sew leather label to waist band
Decorative stitch to hip pocket
Sew hip pocket to back
Page | 125
6. SEAMS & STITCHES OF POLO T - SHIRT
Sew buttonhole to front fly

Sew button to front fly
Serge pocket mouth
Attach sleeve mouth rib to sleeve
Sew under sleeve
Sew side & under sleeve

Sew pocket
Sew sleeve
Hem bottom
Make slit
Page | 126
7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T SHIRT
Join neck rib & attach neck

rib to body
Attach sleeve
Hem sleeve
Hem bottom
Page | 127
CHAPTER - X
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES
Page | 128
1. DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH MACHINE

S.No
Sewing Defects
Thread Breakage
Skip Stitching
Causes
Burns on the thread path,
needle point and hook tip
Remedies
Remove burns by using a
emery sheet ( fine)
Needle thread tension is two

high
Adjust the needle thread

tension
Bobbin case opening lever

provides an excessive clearance
at the bobbin case
Correct the clearance between

bobbin case opening lever and
bobbin case edge.
Hook set is not lubricated

properly
Increase the oil circulation level
Thread untwists
Threading should be properly.
Clearance between the needle

and hook tip is more
Correct hook timing and

clearance
Presser foot pressure is not

enough
Check the presser foot

regulator level
Synthetic thread or thin thread
Wind the thread on the needle
Bobbin thread does not pass

through the forked end of
tension spring on the bobbin
case
Thread the bobbin case

correctly
Bobbin does not spin smoothly
Replace the bobbin
Bobbin thread tension is too low
Adjust the bobbin thread

tension
Bobbin is wound too tightly
Adjust the tension device in

bobbin winder assembly.
Thread tension given by the

tension post no. I is eye after
thread too high
Loosen tension post no.1

slightly.
Loose stitch
Thread escapes
from the needle eye
after thread
trimming
Page | 129
2. BUTTON HOLING SEWING MACHINE

S.No
Sewing Defects
Needle thread is broken
Causes
The tension of the tension
post No.2 is two tight
Remedies
Decrease the tension of the
tension post
The tension or stroke of the

take up spring is more

take up spring
Blade point of sewing hook

has burr or scratches
Smoothen by the sand

paper.
Proper timing of the sewing

hook
Readjust the hook timing.
Improper threading
Cheek Threading
Needle Thread
Move back the needle

thread trimmer driving plate
B
The whip stitch is not formed

at the start of sewing

tension post No.1
A the tension disc no.2, is too

lose
Increase the tension.
Bobbin thread tension is too

high
Decrease the bobbin thread

tension
Bobbin thread tension is not

enough
Readjust the tension
Bobbin thread slips out of

the thread path on the
bobbin case
Properly thread the bobbin

case
The work clamp check is too

large for button hole
Change the work clamp

check with a smaller one
The cloth is made light

weight materials
Delay the timing of the

needle and sewing hook
The tension no.1 is too loose
Readjust the tension
The bobbin thread tension is

too high
Decrease the bobbin thread

tension
Thread slips out
Wobbling stitches are

formed in the over edging
seams
Stitches float over cloth
Skip stitching
The needle Thread at the

first bar tacking comes out
and lumps on the bottom
of cloth
Page | 130
3. BUTTON STITCH MACHINE

S.No
Sewing Defects
Thread breakage
Causes
The yoke slide does not move
in the correct way
Remedies
Adjust the timing of the
motion of the yoke slide at
each end.
The thread tension post no.2,

fails to release the thread at
correct timing
Make the thread release

slightly easier
The thread nipper catches the

thread
The needle does not enter the
centre of the holes in the
button
The yoke slide does not move
in the correct way
The thread tension post no.2,
fails to release the thread at
correct timing
2
Adjust the button clamp jaw

lever holder.
Adjust the timing of the
motion of the yoke slide at
each end
Make the thread release
slightly later
Button are not sewn tightly
The first stitch trails

3 reactively long thread from
the right side of the button
The work pressing force is too

height or too low
Adjust the work pressing

force properly
The needle does not enter the

centre of the holes in the
button

lever holder
The thread pull off lever does

not work properly
Adjust the thread pull off

lever by the nipper bar block
The thread tension post Make

the thread timing no.2 fails to
release the thread at correct
timing
The needle hits the edge of
the holes in the button
4
Adjust the position of the

nipper bar block
Thread trimming failure in

the state of stop-motion
Make the thread timing

slightly later to give more
tension to the stitches.

lever holder
The button clamp assembly

does not rise to the necessary
height
Provide a 12mm clearance

between the feed plate and
button clamp jaw lever
when raised
The thread nipper fails to

press the thread
Adjust the nipper bar block
Page | 131
4. OVER LOCK MACHINE

S.No
Sewing Defects
Needle breaking
Cloth is not cut
Skip stitch
Thread Breakage
Causes
Needle type is wrong
Remedies
Use a specified needle
Needle size is not correct
Use a needle size suitable to the

thread gauge and type of fabrics
Needle is not installed
Install the needle correctly
Needle is bent
Use good needle
Needle to needle guard relation

is bad
Correct the relation
Needle to looper relation is bad
Correct the looper timing
Position of the upper and lower

knife is inadequate
Adjust the knife position
Knife blade has worn out
Sharpen the lower knife or renew

the upper knife
Needle to looper relation is

wrong
Correct the needle-to-looper

relation
Needle is thread with 's' twist

thread
Use a Z twist thread
Thread tension is wrong
Adjust the thread tension
Quality of the thread is poor
Use the thread of good quality
Thread is too thick for needle

size
Select a suitable needle or thread
Needle is installed in wrong

way
Threading properly
Thread tension is too high
Adjust the thread tension nut
Feed dog comes up too much

from the throat plate
Correct the feed dog height
Differential feed mechanism is

not set Correctly
Correct the differential feed

mechanism
Pressure applied by the

pressure foot is too high or too
low
Correct the presser foot pressure
Puckering
Page | 132
CHAPTER - XI
GARMENT MANUFACTURING
PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT
Page | 133
1.
Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts
Machine: SNLS
Exercise:
Goal:14Seconds
Exercise Number
Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts
Starting Position:
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place
Fabric close to the Operator.
Fabric
Methodology:
Pick Up the 20x5 plaid plies, align them and place

them under needle. Take reference to any straight
line on the plaid fabric.
Start sewing by following the reference point and

sew off at the end.
Turn the fabric by 180 degrees and position it under

the needle taking a new reference point.
Continue the process 4 as many time as possible

using the same fabric.
First try to sew straight with any number of bursts

applicable to you and once you achieve this
objective try to reduce the number of bursts.
At the end of this exercise you should be able to sew

a long straight seam in a 1 or 2 bursts.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the
needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Lines sewed must be straight.
Page | 134
Ergonomics
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Try to use the fabric given to you optimally by sewing as many
lines as possible. Keep the length of end threads low.
Abilities Developed
Ability to sew long seams straight
Ability to sew long seams in min. no. of bursts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 135
2. Attaching one piece to other using folder

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise Number
Exercise: Attaching One Piece to Other using Folder

Starting Position:
Illustration:
Fabric
Methodology:
20 X 5
22 X 2 (Placket Piece)
Pick Up the body from the left side on the table and
place under the needle.
Pick the facing from lap align and place it on the

body under the needle as shown in fig.
Start sewing straight by holding and feeding the

placket facing with right hand and body with left
hand.
While feeding ensures that the placket facing is fed

normally while body is fed a bit tighter in proportion
to placket facing.
Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until

the bundle or lot is completed.
Security
needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Checks matching along the placket should be consistent.
Puckering must be avoided while placket attaching.
Page | 136
Ergonomics
Waste
If possible use the other edge of the fabric for placket facing
attaching.
Abilities Developed
Ability to match checks while sewing.
Ability to feed two plies at different rates while sewing.
Necessary materials
DNLS
2 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
20x5 & 22 x 2 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 137
3. Placket facing attach using folder

Machine:
DNLS
Goal:
Exercise Number
Exercise: Placket Facing Attach Using Folder

Starting Position:
Illustration:
Fabric Ready Front Cuts
Methodology:
22 X 2 For Placket

Pick Up the body from the left side on the table and
place under the needle.
Pick the facing from lap and pass it through the
folder. When placket facing reaches the other end of
folder aligns it to the body, match the checks and
position it under the needle.
Start sewing straight by holding and feeding the
placket facing with right hand and body with left
hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until
the bundle or lot is completed.
Security
needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Checks matching along the placket should be consistent.
Puckering must be avoided while placket attaching.
Ergonomics
Waste
If possible use the other edge of the fabric for placket facing
attaching.
Page | 138
Abilities Developed
Ability to match checks while sewing.
Ability to feed two plies at different rates while sewing.
Ability to work with folder for attaching placket
Necessary Materials
DNLS
2 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Folder
Page | 139
4. Hemming operations using folder

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:18 Seconds
Exercise Number
Exercise: Hemming Operations Using Folder

Starting Position:
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine

the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Fabric
Methodology:
Step 1: One Edge Without Using Folder
STEP 1.
Pick Up the ply from left ext, fold it to 1at one
edge as shown in fig. and place it under the
needle.
Start sewing straight by folding the width with
right hand and feeding the fabric forward with
left hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose it in
chain until the bundle or lot is completed.
Step 2: Other
Folder
Edge Using
STEP 2.
Move the above chain-disposed bundle to
left side of you. Take the first piece in the
bundle and feed it to the folder attached.
Start Stitching straight by holding the fabric
with right hand and feeding it into the folder.
Sew off at the edge and dispose in chain.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain a margin of 1 throughout the seam. Avoid
down stitches along the seam. If the fabric is plaid,
checks to be matched where ever necessary.
Ergonomics
Page | 140
Waste
Use the fabric further for PLK01 Exercise.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do all hemming Operations
Ability to work in single burst using folder.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Folder
Page | 141
5. Square pocket attach

Machine:
SNLS
Exercise:
Square Pocket Attach
Goal:
Exercise Number
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric
Methodology:
Ready Creased Pockets

Ready Fronts

Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it
on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket
from Right extension and align it to the
marking on Front.
After Setting the pocket to Front, position
them under the needle at Point A as Shown in
Fig.
Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards
B. At B stop with needle down position turn
the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as
shown in Figure.
Sew with precision stops at all corners with
needle down position until Use reach the
Position C.
At c give a Back tack, Trim the threads and
dispose the front to center runner or Disposal
Bar.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Pocket edges must be sharp.
Pocket Should be Properly balanced on Front.
No Down Stitches allowed.
Page | 142
Ergonomics
Waste
Use the Fronts For Mock shoulder attach Operation.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Pocket Attach Operation.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Fronts & Pockets.
Trimmer & 1/16 CL Foot
Page | 143
6. Rounded bottom pocket attach

Machine:
SNLS
Exercise: Rounded Bottom Pocket
Goal:
Exercise Number
Attach
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric
Methodology:

Ready Fronts

marking on Front.
Fig.
shown in Figure.
needle down position until U reach the
Position C.
Bar.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Bottom Corners must be rounded precisely
Ergonomics
Page | 144
Waste
Use the Fronts For Mock Shoulder Attach Operation.
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Page | 145
7. Bottom triangle pocket attach

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise Number
Exercise: Bottom Triangle Pocket Attach

Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric
Ready
Fronts
Methodology:
marking on Front.
Fig.
shown in Figure.
Position C.
Bar.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Page | 146
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Page | 147
8. Diamond pocket attach

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise Number
Exercise: Diamond Pocket Attach

Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric
Ready Fronts
Methodology:
Security

marking on Front.
Fig.
shown in Figure.
Position C.
Bar.

the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 148
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Page | 149
9. Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners

Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 25 sec
Exercise Number
Exercise: Long & Short Seams with needle

Down Stoppages at Corners
Starting Position:
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with

both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee
lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Fabric
20 x 5
Methodology:
Pick Up two 20 X 5 plies (One from right
extension and other from lap ) simultaneously
with both hands, align them on one side and
position them under needle at from corner.
Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning plies
using right hand and guiding the fabric forward
with left hand.
Continue stitching until you reach from
opposite edge where you stop with the needle
down position.
With the needle down position turn the plies at
90 degrees and continue stitching, holding the
fabric with right hand and guiding it with left
hand.
Repeat the steps 4 & 5 until you reach the last
edge where you sew off as shown in the
diagram.
With trimmer on right hand cut the sew off
thread and dispose.
2 Plies; One
Over another
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Needle
must be in down position while stopped at corners.
Ergonomics
Page | 150
Waste
Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in other
exercises if possible.
Abilities Developed
Ability to hold and sew long seams straight.
Ability to stop with needle down
Ability to maintain equi-margin along edges.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Page | 151
SNLS 10. Collar run stitch operation
Machine:
Goal: 25 sec
Exercise Number
CL 02
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Exercise:
Mock
Collar
RunStitch
the
knee lift.
Place
Fabric
close to the Operator.
Ready Cut Collar Plies
Methodology:
Pick Up two Collar Plies (One from right
extension and other from lap ) simultaneously
with both hands, align them on one side and
position them under needle at from corner.
Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning
plies using right hand and guiding the fabric
forward with left hand.
Continue stitching until you reach from
opposite edge where you stop with the needle
down position.
With the needle down position turn the plies
at 90 degrees and continue stitching, holding
the fabric with right hand and guiding it with
left hand.
diagram.
With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off
thread and dispose.
2 Plies; One
Over another
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Page | 152
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Collar RunStitch Operation.
Necessary Material
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Cut Collar Plies
Page | 153
11. Top stitch along edges

Machine: SNLS
Goal: 20 Sec
Exercise Number
CL 03
Exercise: Top Stitch along Edges

Starting Position:
Illustration:

Methodology:
Pcs From CL01 to be turned & Used for this

Operation
Pick Up the piece from Machine bed and place

it under the needle at a distance of from
the edge.
Start Sewing Straight maintaining a margin of

until you reach from opposite edge
where you stop with the needle down
position.
With the needle down position turn the plies

at 90 degrees and continue stitching.

diagram.

thread and dispose.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 154
Waste
Abilities developed
Ability to do Collar RunStitch Operation.
Necessary material
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 BobbinsReady
Cut Collar Plies
Page | 155
12. Hem along the contour

Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 24 seconds
Exercise: Hem along the Contour
Exercise Number
CL 05
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric
Methodology:
Pick Up the fabric From Lap, fold it 3/8 at the

corner and place it under the needle.
Sew at margin from the edge carefully

following the contour.
Trim the thread and remove the fabric.
Fold the fabric along the other edge at 3/8

width and place it under the needle.
Hem stitch folding the margin with the right

hand and guiding the fabric with the left hand
by maintaining the width from the edge
throughout the contour.
Trim the thread and dispose the fabric.

Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. No
down or dropped stitch allowed during hemming. Keep
the puckering minimal along round edges.
Page | 156
Ergonomics
Waste
Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in Pick
attach Operation.
Abilities Developed
Ability to fold and hem stitch along the curve.
Ability to maintain equal-margin along edges.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ply as Shown in Figure & Thread trimmer
Page | 157
13. Mock neck band hem
Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 16 seconds
Exercise: Mock Neck Band Hem
Exercise Number
CL 06
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric 20 X 3
Methodology:
Pick Up the fabric From Machine bed fold it at

3/8 width at bottom end and place this end
under the needle.
Now start Sewing at a margin of from the

folded edge along the required contour.
When sewing make sure that the folding is

done precisely with right hand and the fabric is
guided by right hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.

Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain the stitch margin of throughout the folded
edge. No down or dropped stitch allowed during
hemming. Keep the puckering minimal along rounded
edges.
Ergonomics
Page | 158
Waste
Re-Use the Fabric in Pick attach Operation.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Neck Band Hemming.
Ability to maintain equal-margin along edges.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ply as Shown in Figure & Thread trimmer
Page | 159
14. Sewing with template
Machine:
Exercise:
SNLS
Goal: 23 Seconds
Sewing with Template
Exercise Number
CL 07
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric 20 X 5
Methodology:
Pick Up the fabric and place it under the

needle and place the template above the
fabric.
Sew Straight along the template
Continue stitching until you reach the other

end of the template where you sew off, cut
the threads.
Now position the fabric such that the other

edge of the template is under the needle and
sew holding the template as shown in figure.
Sew Off at the other end, Trim the thread and

dispose the Fabric.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Sew Straight. Avoid moving the template while sewing.
Page | 160
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to hold template and sew as required.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Template 10 X 3
Page | 161
15. Mock pick stitching

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:45 Seconds
Exercise: Mock Pick Stitching.
Exercise Number
CL 08
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric Collars From CL04
Methodology:
Hemmed N/B ply from CL06

20 X 3 for Bottom N/B Ply
Open the bundle; Place collars and Inside

Collar band ply on Lap, Top C/B on the right
extension.
Pick collar and ply on right extension

simultaneously, align and place on the table.
Pick up second ply on the lap and align with

other two. Now place the template on the top
ply align it with the shape of the collar and
position all the three under the needle.
Start sewing along the contour of the

template.
Sew off at the other end, trim the thread and

dispose the collar.
PATTERN
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Collar and template should be aligned properly at the
collar corners. Pattern should not be displaced while
sewing. Stitches should be made exactly along the
contour of the template.
Page | 162
Ergonomics
Waste
Use the end pieces for the mock exercises of center
stitch finish collars.
Abilities Developed
Ability to sew along the curves.
Ability to handle three plies at a time.
Ability to sew using the template.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Neckband plies and ready collar.
Thread trimmer
Template
Page | 163
16. Top stitch handling tree piles

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:13 Seconds
Exercise: Top Stitch Handling Three Plies
Exercise Number
CL 09
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric
Methodology:
STEP 1
Pick Up three plies from lap, align and position

under the needle.
Sew straight at a margin of and sew off at

the other edge.
Turn the top and bottom plies downwards at

the joint and crease it along the edge.
Do Top stitch along the joint edge and sew off

at the other end.
STEP 2
Sew at a margin of from one the edge of
the fabric.
Trim the thread and remove the fabric.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seam for the
step 1 exercise. Avoid down stitches for the step 2
exercises.
Page | 164
Ergonomics
Waste
Use the fabric further for PLK01 Exercise.
Abilities Developed
Ability to hold and sew long seams straight.
Ability to sew top edge stitch using two or more
plies.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
1/16 CR Foot.
Page | 165
17. Mock centre stitch collar

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:15 Seconds
Exercise: Mock Centre Stitch Collar
Exercise Number
CL 10
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric
Methodology:
Pick Up the Collar from Table and position the

start point from where the center stitch
begins, under the needle.
Sew straight at a margin of 1/16 from the

joint edge along the seam.
Stop at required point at the other end, trim

the threads and dispose off.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Down Stitches not allowed. Edge stitch must be
uniformly at a margin of 1/16 from the Joint.
Ergonomics
Waste
Use the collars for Collar attaches Later. Minimize thread
end wastage.
Abilities developed
Ability to Do Center stitch on Collar.
Page | 166
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Collars & Thread trimmer
1/16 CR Foot.
Page | 167
18. Mock topstitch collar
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise:
Mock Topstitch Collar
Starting Position:
Goal:22 Seconds
Exercise Number
CL 04
Illustration:
Pcs from Collar Run stitch operations to be turned

and used in this exercise.
Methodology:
Pick Up the ready collar from Machine bed and

place it under the needle at a distance of
from the edge.
Start Sewing Straight maintaining a margin of

until you reach from opposite edge
where you stop with the needle down
position.
With the needle down position turn the collar

at w.r.t the other edge and continue
stitching.

diagram.

thread and dispose.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Page | 168
Ergonomics
Waste
Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in mock
Pick attach Exercise.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Topstitch Collar Operation.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Collars & Trimmer
Page | 169
19. Cuff hem
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise:
Goal:
Exercise Number
Cuff Hem
CF 01
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric
11 x 3.5 Ply
Methodology:
Pick Up 11 x 3.5 ply from machine bed, fold

it by 3/8 and position it under the needle at
from the edge.
Now Start sewing Straight by folding the width

with the right hand and feeding the fabric
forward with left hand.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. No
Down stitches allowed.
Ergonomics
Page | 170
Waste
Ability
Ability to do Cuff Hem Operation.

Necessary material
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
11x 3.5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 171
20. Mock run stitch cuffs

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise Number
Exercise: Mock Run Stitch Cuffs
CF 02
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric
11 x 3.5 Ply
Methodology:
Ready Hemmed Ply
Pick Up 11 x 3.5 ply from machine bed and
another ply from the lap, align and position
them under the needle at from the edge.
Now Place the template over the plies and

start sewing with a back tack, along the
contour of the template.
While sewing hold the Template with Left

hand and handle the plies using right hand.
At the other end sew off with a back tack and

dispose in chain.
Template
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Follow
the template precisely at the rounded corners.
Ergonomics
Page | 172
Waste
Use these cuffs for Cuff attach Operation.

Abilities Developed
Ability to do Cuff Run stitch Operation

Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
11x 3.5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 173
21. Binding operation

Machine:
SNLS
Exercise:
Goal:
Exercise Number
Binding Operation.
SL 01
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric 20 x 5
Methodology:
STEP 1.
22 x 2 (Creased)
STEP 1.
Pickup plane ply with left hand from machine

bed and u-ply from right extension
simultaneously.
Align both plies along seam edge and place

them under needle.

STEP 2.
STEP 2.
Pick up the end piece from above, turn and
place the end of folded edge other side under
the needle.
Start sewing straight at an equi-margin from

the folded edge.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Page | 174
Quality
Avoid the visibility of attach stitches.
Avoid down stitches on both faces.
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to attach two plies.
Ability to turn and topstitch a fold.
(Binding stitch)
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 Fabric plies & Trimmer
T Guide
Page | 175
22. Binding operation using a folder

Machine:
SNLS
Exercise: Binding Operation Using a
Goal:
Exercise Number
Folder
SL 02
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric 20 x 5
22 x 3
Methodology:
Using a Folder F205
Pickup the facing 22 x 3 from the lap and

feed it into the Folder, eject it out from the
other end and position the fold under the
needle.
Now take 20 x 5 from the pick up bar and

position it in between the facing ply U Fold,
under the needle.
Now start sewing by feeding the Facing

through the folder with right hand and 20 x 5
with the left hand.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
No Roping allowed.
Page | 176
Ergonomics
Waste
Use the other edge also for binding Attaches.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Binding Seams Using a Folder.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 Fabric plies (20 x 5, 22 x 3)
Trimmer
Folder F205
Page | 177
23. Mock continuous slv placket attach using a folder

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise Number
Exercise: Mock Continuous Slv Placket Attach Using a

Folder
SL 03
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric Full Sleeve Ready Cut

14 x 3 Ply Cuts
Methodology:
Using a Folder F205
Pickup the facing 14 x 3 from the lap and

feed it into the Folder, eject it out from the
other end and position the fold under the
needle.
Now pick the ready full Sleeve from Pick Up

stand and position cut edge between the
facing ply U Fold, under the needle.

through the folder with right hand and Sleeve
with the left hand.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
No Roping allowed.
Page | 178
Ergonomics
Waste
Use these Sleeves for Sleeve Attach Exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to Attach Continuous Sleeve Placket Using a
Folder.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Sleeves & 14 x 3 Plies
Folder F205
Page | 179
24. Mock split edge placket attach operation using folder

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise Number
Exercise: Mock Split Edge Placket Attach Operation Using

Folder
SL 04
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Fabric Full Sleeve Ready Cut

7 x 1.5 Ply Cuts
Methodology:
Using a Folder
Pickup the facing 7 x 1.5 from a box under

the Machine and feed it into the Folder, eject it
out from the other end and position the fold
under the needle.
Now pick the Ready full Sleeve from Pick Up

stand and position cut edge between the
facing ply U Fold, under the needle.

through the folder with right hand and Sleeve
with the left hand.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
No Roping allowed.
Page | 180
Ergonomics
Waste
Use these Sleeves for Sleeve Attach Exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to Attach Split Sleeve Placket to Sleeve Using
a Folder.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Sleeves & 7 x 1.5 Plies
Folder
Page | 181
25. Attach two plies using folder
Machine:
Exercise:
DNLS
Goal:
Attach Two plies Using Folder.
Starting Position:
Exercise Number
BK 02
Illustration:
Body Ply
Methodology:
Pick Up one ply from left side of the table and

place it under the needle.
Pick up the second ply from right extension

and feed it into the folder.
Align the two plies and position them under

the needle.
Yoke Ply
Start sewing by feeding the top ply through

folder with right hand and holding the bottom
ply with left hand. Align both plies while
feeding for stitches.
If it is plaid fabric maintain the checks

symmetrically throughout the seam length.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Page | 182
Quality
Maintain the checks symmetrically throughout the seam
length. Avoid down stitch while sewing.
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to work with folder.
Ability to stitch the straight seams.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Folder & CL Foot
Page | 183
26. Pleats
Machine:
SNLS
Exercise:
Pleats
Goal:17 Seconds
Exercise Number
BK 01
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Target For 5 Pleats.
Methodology:
Fabric 20 x 5 (Notched)
Pick Up the ply from lap and place it on

Machine bed.
Match the first 2 notches with fingers, lift the

presser foot and rest it on the pleat fold with
needle position at desired point of stitch.
Sew the pleat. Match the next notch and

repeat the steps 3 & 4 as many pleats are
there.
Dispose the fabric once all the pleats are sewn.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain pleat depth as required. Sew the pleat within
seam allowance.
Page | 184
Ergonomics
Waste
Use The Fabric For PLK01 Later.
Abilities Developed
Ability to make Pleats.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Page | 185
27. Mock yoke attach with folder
Machine:
DNLS
Exercise: Mock yoke Attach with
Goal:
Folder.
Starting Position:
Exercise Number
BK 03
Illustration:

Fabric
Methodology:
Backs & Yokes Ready Cutting
Body & Yoke 1
Pick Up one ply from left side of the table and

second ply from right extension, align and
position under the needle.
Pick up the third ply from the lap and feed it

into the folder.
Align the third ply with other two plies and

position them under the needle.
Start sewing by feeding the top ply through

folder with right hand and holding the bottom
ply with left hand. Align both plies while
feeding for stitches.
If it is plaid fabric maintain the checks
symmetrically through out the seam length.
Yoke 2
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain the checks symmetrically through out the
seam length. Avoid down stitch while sewing.
Page | 186
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to do yoke attaches using Folder.
Ability to stitch the straight seams.
Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously while
sewing
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Folder & 1/ 4 CL Presser Foot
Page | 187
28. Shoulder attach without folder

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:60 Seconds
Exercise: Shoulder Attach Without Folder
Exercise Number
AS 01
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Backs From Yoke Attach & Fronts From Cutting
Methodology:
STEP 1.
STEP 1.

Open the bundle and clamp the pieces to the
sloping table.
Pick Up backs from clamp table and position
top Yoke piece under the needle. Take front
piece from pick up bar right to operator, align
it with yoke edge and place it under needle.
Sew straight and trim threads at the end of
seam (UBT).
Pick up the other front, align with second half
of yoke and position them under Needle.
seam (UBT).
STEP 2.
STEP 2.
Now take the Piece out turn the bottom yoke

over the above seam, align the edges and
position under the needle.
seam (UBT).
Repeat steps 6 & 7 for the other front.
Flip over and dispose the garment.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Avoid Collar center off due to uneven seam width at
shoulder.
Ergonomics
Page | 188
Waste
Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do shoulder attach operation in real time.
Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously.
Page | 189
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Backs & Fronts cuttings
Trimmer
Page | 190
Machine:
DNLS
Exercise:
29. Topstitch shoulder
Starting Position:
Goal:19 Seconds
Exercise Number
AS 02
Illustration:
Fabric from AS01 Exercise
Methodology:
Open the bundle and pick the piece with right

hand from center runner and position the
shoulder joint to be topstitched under needle.
The fronts should lie to the right of the seam

and backs to the left on machine bed as shown
in figure.
Hold and feed the garment with the palms of

both hands resting and then moving parallel
on either side of seam.
Sew off and trim threads at the shoulder end

(UBT) and position the next shoulder under
the needle.
Repeat step 4 and dispose to left of

workstation.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
No Down Stitches while sewing.
Ergonomics
Page | 191
WASTE
Abilities Developed
Ability to topstitch shoulder on DNLS.
Ability to handle larger parts.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Front & Back attached pieces.
Page | 192
30. Shoulder attach using folder

Machine:
DNLS
Goal:
Exercise: Shoulder Attach Using Folder

Starting Position:
Exercise Number
AS 03
Illustration:

Methodology:
STEP 1.
Open the bundle and clamp the backs to the
sloping table. Place left front on pick up bar
and right fronts on the lap.
Pick Up back from clamp table, left front from
the pickup bar simultaneously.
Feed the bottom yoke into the folder and
then place left front over it.
Feed the top Yoke into the folder align the
three plies along the seam edge and position
then Under presser foot.
Sew straight by feeding bottom yoke and front
with right hand and top yoke with the left
hand.
Sew off and trim at the shoulder end (UBT).
Now Pick up the right front from the lap and
repeat the steps 4, 5, 6 & 7.
Flip over for waterfall disposal.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Avoid Collar center off due to uneven seam width at
shoulder.
No down stitches while sewing.
Ergonomics
Page | 193
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to do shoulder attach operation in real time.
Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously.
Ability to work with Folder.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready Backs & Fronts cuttings
Folder & CL Presser foot.
Clamped Sloping Table
Page | 194
31. Sew contour fabric to straight fabric

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise: Sew Contour Fabric to straight Fabric.

Starting Position:
Exercise Number
AS 04
Illustration:
Use Prepared Fabric & Contour Cut fabric for this

Exercise
Methodology:
Pickup Contour fabric with left hand from

machine bed and straight ply with right hand
from right extension simultaneously.
Align the ends of both plies and position them

under needle.
Match and hold the first notch and sew along

the contour by aligning them.
Stop the needle and repeat the step 4 until

you reach the other end.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Notches must be matched and plies to be aligned
correctly along the edge.
Ergonomics
Page | 195
Waste
Use the same fabric for Collar closing operation.
Abilities Developed
Ability to Sew along contour without stretch.
Ability to sew in 2-3 bursts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Page | 196
32. Mock collar attach

Machine:
SNLS / UBT
Exercise:
Mock Collar Attach
Goal:45 Seconds
Exercise Number
AS 05
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Ready Collar
Ready Body
Methodology:
Pickup the body from left and collar from right

extension simultaneously.
Position neck of body under needle and then

place and align collar over neck of body under
the needle.
Match and hold the first notch and sew along

the contour by aligning them.
Stop the needle and repeat the step 4 until

you reach the other end.
Sew off at the other end, trim threads (UBT)

and dispose over center runner to the right.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Notches must be matched and plies to be aligned
correctly along the edge.
Page | 197
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Collar attach Operation.
Ability to handle one each of small and larger parts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Collars and bodies.
Page | 198
33. Binding operations

Machine:
SNLS
Exercise:
Goal:30 Seconds
Binding Operations.
Starting Position:
Exercise Number
AS 06
Illustration:

Methodology:
STEP 1.
Pickup plane ply with left hand from machine

bed and u-ply from right extension
simultaneously.
Align both plies along seam edge and place

them under needle.
STEP 2.
Pick up the end piece from above, turn and
place the end of folded edge other side under
the needle.
Start sewing straight at an equi-margin from

the folded edge.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Page | 199
Quality
Avoid the visibility of attach stitches.
Avoid down stitches on both faces.
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to attach two plies.
Ability to turn and topstitch a fold.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 Fabric plies.
Page | 200
34. Mock collar finish

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:50 Seconds
Exercise: Mock Collar Finish

Starting Position:
Exercise Number
AS 07
Illustration:

Pcs From Mock Collar Attach
Methodology:
Pickup the body from center runner to right of

workstation and position the Pick area under
needle.
Start Sewing along the pick edge and at the

corner stop the needle insert body correctly
and start sewing to other pick end.
While sewing hold the collar pick fold with

right hand and feed the body with left hand.
Before reaching the other end of pick stop the

needle align collar and body and then sew
along pick edge.
Stitches
Ply 2
Trim threads at the end (UBT) and dispose on

Left bar.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Ply 1
Quality
Collar stay stitch should not be visible.
Avoid down stitches.
Page | 201
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities
Ability to do topstitch collar operation.
Ability to handle larger parts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Body with collar attached.
Page | 202
35. Lap seam along contour

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:35 Seconds
Exercise: Lap Seam along Contour

Starting Position:
Exercise Number
AS 08
Illustration:

Methodology:
Mock Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Pickup armhole contoured ply from machine

bed with left hand and the sleeve ply from
right extension simultaneously.
Place the body ply under the presser foot.

Take the sleeve ply and place it at a distance
3/8 margin from the body ply seam edge.
Now fold the bigger ply edge over the smaller

ply and position under the needle.
Match the notches on both plies, align the

plies and Start sewing straight while folding
the body ply edge with left hand and feeding
the sleeve ply with right hand. Continue this
step until you finish stitching at the other end.
Sew off at the end and dispose in chain.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Page | 203
Quality
Maintain the equal fold edge throughout seam. Avoid
drop stitches.
Match the notches exactly.
Ergonomics
Waste
Uses the same fabrics for topstitch sleeve operation
exercise.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do lap seam along the contour. Useful
while doing sleeve attach operations.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock plies as shown in figure.
Page | 204
36. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap Seam)

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:45 Seconds
Exercise: Mock Sleeve Attach Operation
Exercise Number
AS 09
(Lap Seam)
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Sleeves ready cut
Methodology:
Body from Collar attach Operation

Pickup body from rack to left of WS and
position the armhole end under the presser
foot.
Now pickup the sleeve from the rack also with
left hand and align with the armhole and
position at a distance of 3/8 from the edge of
armhole.
Now fold the armhole edge over the sleeve
and position under the needle.
Match the notches on both armhole and
sleeve, align them and Start sewing straight
while folding the body edge with left hand and
feeding the sleeve with right hand. Continue
this step until you finish stitching at the other
end.
Sew off and trim the threads at the end (UBT)
and dispose to bar on right.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Avoid drop stitches. Match the notches while sewing.
Page | 205
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to attach sleeves to body.
Ability to handle bigger parts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready bodies & Sleeves.
Page | 206
37. Lap seam along contour using folder

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise: Lap Seam along Contour using folder

Starting Position:
Exercise Number
AS 10
Illustration:

Methodology:
USING FOLDER
Pickup armhole contoured ply from machine

bed with left hand and the sleeve ply from
right extension simultaneously.
Place the body ply through folder and position

under the presser foot. Take the sleeve ply and
place it on the body ply through the lap fold.
Match the notches on both plies, align the

plies and Start sewing straight while holding
the body ply edge with left hand and feeding
the sleeve ply with right hand.
Continue the above step until you finish

stitching at the other end.

Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain the equal fold edge throughout seam. Avoid
drop stitches.
Match the notches exactly.
Page | 207
Ergonomics
Waste
Uses the same fabrics for topstitch sleeve operation
exercise.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do lap seam along the contour. Useful
while doing sleeve attach operations.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 plies as shown in figure.
Folder
Page | 208
38. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap seam) with folder

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise: Mock Sleeve Attach Operation
Exercise Number
AS 11
(Lap Seam) with Folder

Starting Position:
Illustration:

Methodology:
Pickup body from rack to left of WS, pass it

through folder and position the armhole end
under the presser foot.
Now pickup the sleeve from the rack also with

left hand and place it on armhole inside the
fold.
Match the notches on both armhole and

sleeve, align them and Start sewing straight
while holding the body edge with left hand
and feeding the sleeve with right hand.
Continue this step until you finish stitching at
the other end.
Sew off and trim the threads at the end (UBT)

and dispose to bar on right.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Avoid drop stitches. Match the notches while sewing.
Page | 209
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to attach sleeves to body.
Ability to handle bigger parts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready bodies & Sleeves.
Folder
Page | 210
39. Topstitch along contour over lap seam

Machine:
DNLS
Goal:
Exercise Number
Exercise: Topstitch along contour over lap seam.
15 Sec
AS 12
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Methodology:
Pickup the piece from the pickup bar left to

WS and position the end of armhole joint
under the needle.
Start sewing along the contour following the

margin with both the palms on either side
guiding the stitch.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Avoid down stitches. Maintain topstitch at consistent
margin from the edge.
Ergonomics
Waste
Page | 211
Abilities Developed
Ability to do topstitches along contour with DNLS.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready piece as shown in figure.
Page | 212
40. Topstitch along contour over lap seam using folder

Machine:
DNLS
Goal:
Exercise: Topstitch along contour over lap seam using

Folder.
Starting Position:
Exercise Number
AS 13
Illustration:

Methodology:
Pickup the piece from the pickup bar left to

WS and pass the end of armhole joint through
folder and position the end under the needle.
Start sewing along the contour following the

margin with both the palms on either side
guiding the stitch.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
margin from the edge.
Ergonomics
Page | 213
Waste
Abilities developed
Ability to do topstitches along contour with DNLS.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready piece as shown in figure.
Folder & CR presser foot.
Page | 214
41. Topstitch sleeve attach

Machine: DNLS
Goal:45 Seconds
Exercise Number
AS 14
Exercise: Topstitch Sleeve attach

Starting Position:
Illustration:

Methodology:
Pick up the piece from pickup bar or haunch

back to the left of operator and position the
area to be topstitched under the needle with
sleeve extending to right as shown in figure.
Start sewing along the sleeve edge following

the margin with both palms on either side
guiding the stitch.
At the end of the seam cut the threads (UBT).

Remove the piece and position the other
armhole area under the needle as explained in
step 2.
Repeat the step 3 and 4 and dispose the piece

to the center runner.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
margin from the edge. Follow line balancing if any.
Page | 215
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities developed
Ability to do Topstitches with DNLS.
Ability to handle whole garment.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready Body with collar and sleeve attached.
Page | 216
42. Topstitch sleeve attach using folder

Machine: DNLS
Exercise: Topstitch Sleeve attach using
Goal:
Exercise Number
AS 15
Folder
Starting Position:
Illustration:

Using folder
Methodology:
Pick up the piece from pickup bar or haunch

back to the left of operator and pass the area
to be topstitched through the folder and
position the end under the needle with sleeve
extending to right as shown in figure.
Start sewing along the sleeve edge following

the margin with both palms on either side
guiding the stitch.
At the end of the seam cut the threads (UBT).

Remove the piece and position the other
armhole area under the needle as explained in
step 2.
Repeat the step 3 and 4 and dispose the piece

to the center runner.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
margin from the edge. Follow line balancing if any.
Page | 217
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Topstitches with DNLS.
Ability to handle whole garment.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready Body with collar and sleeve attached.
Folder & CR foot.
Page | 218
43. Hemming long contours (Curved)

Machine:
SNLS
Exercise: Hemming Long Contours.
Goal:
(Curved)
Starting Position:
Exercise Number
AS 19
Illustration:

Methodology
Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Pick the piece from haunch back or Stand left

to the Operator and place it on table. Fold
3/8at the rounded Corner (Turn & Turn) and
position it under needle.
Back Tack at the end; Turn the fold by 90

degrees with needle down Position and Start
Sewing along the contour by folding the width
with the right hand and guiding the piece
along using left hand.
At the other end turn the fabric again by 90

degrees and back tack.
Cut the threads and dispose to the disposal

bar or center runner.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain the uniform folded width of 3/8 along the
contour. Roping must not be there along the seam.
No Down stitches allowed.
Page | 219
Ergonomics
Waste
Use the same fabric for Straight Bottom Hem.
Abilities Developed
Ability to hem Rounded edges.
Ability to handle large garments while
manually folding the hem.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer
Page | 220
44. Long straight hemming

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise: Long Straight Hemming

Starting Position:
Exercise Number
AS 20
Illustration:

Methodology

to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 1at
the (Turn & Turn) and position it under
needle.

degrees with needle down Position and Start
Sewing along the edge by folding the width
with the right hand and guiding the piece
along using left hand.
At the other end turn the fabric again by 90

degrees and back tack.
Cut the threads and dispose to the Disposal

Bar or Center runner.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain the uniform folded width of 1 along the
Page | 221
Ergonomics
Waste
Use the same fabric for Curved Bottom Hem at the
opposite edge if not done.
Abilities Developed
Ability to Fold (Turn & Turn) and hem for
longer seams.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
T- Guide & 1/16 CL Presser Foot
Page | 222
45. Hemming long contours (Curved) using folder

Machine:
SNLS
Exercise: Hemming Long Contours.

Folder
Goal:
Exercise Number AS 21
(Curved) Using
Starting Position:
Illustration:
Using Folder
Methodology
to the Operator and place it on table. Fold
3/8at the rounded Corner (Turn & Turn) and
position it under needle.
degrees with needle down Position, Set the
folder and feed the edge to be bottom folded
into it.
Start Sewing along the contour by feeding the
folded width with the right hand and guiding
the piece along using left hand.
At the other end, remove the folder, turn the
fabric again by 90 degrees and back tack.
Cut the threads and dispose to the disposal
bar or center runner.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain the uniform folded width of 3/8 along the
Ergonomics
Waste
Use the same fabric for Straight Bottom Hem.
Page | 223
Abilities Developed
Ability to hem Rounded edges.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
1/16 CL Foot & Folder F503
Magnetic guide
Page | 224
46. Long straight hemming using folder

Machine:
SNLS
Goal:
Exercise: Long Straight Hemming using Folder

Starting Position:
Exercise Number
AS 22
Illustration:
Operation Using Folder
Methodology
to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 1at
the (Turn & Turn) and position it under
needle.
degrees with needle down Position, set the
folder and feed the edge to be bottom folded
into it.
Start Sewing along the edge by feeding the
folded width with the right hand and guiding
the piece along using left hand.
At the other end, Remove the Folder, turn the
fabric again by 90 degrees and back tack.
Cut the threads and dispose to the Disposal
Bar or Center runner.
Mock Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Security
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Quality
Maintain the uniform folded width of 1 along the
Ergonomics
Waste
Use the same fabric for Curved Bottom Hem at the
opposite edge if not done.
Page | 225
Abilities Developed
Ability to Fold (Turn & Turn) and hem for
longer seams.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
T- Guide & 1/16 CL Presser Foot
Folder F505
Page | 226
CHAPTER - XII
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE
Page | 227
Type of Attachments
1. Various Collar Operations
Hems the collar band before it is attached to the

collar Please specify hem size and stitch margin.
We recommend an edge guide foot to maintain
proper margins
Foot and Guide assist in turning and top

stitching front and back collar bands after they
have been sewn to the collar.
Produces a consistent stitch margin along the
bead.
Page | 228
2. Yoking and Shoulder Joining:
This folder turn down the top ply and joins it

to two additional plys. The bottom ply is then
turned back to form the yoke. Special foot is
recommended.
Foot and Guide assist in turning and top

stitching front and back collar bands after they
have been sewn to the collar. Produces a
consistent stitch margin along the bead.
Used to attach the yoke to the front and back panels of the shirt.
Both folders can be made left or right.
Page | 229
3.
Pocket Hemming
This attachment is used to hem the tops of pockets. Many different folder styles are available to suit
your particular need.
Please specify finished size, stitch margin, and the amount of in tuck required.
Special presser foot recommended.
Page | 230
4. Cuff Hemming - Short Sleeve

In addition to the plain hemmer, a variety of folders are available for finishing short sleeves. Two of
the most popular are illustrated below.
These folders may also be used to hem the tops of pockets
Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts.

May be used on lockstitch or chainstitch
machines. Stripes and plaids are easily matched.
Piping and other types of trim may also be
added.
Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts.
Special edge guide foot is recommended.
Special foot is recommended.
Must be used on lockstitch machines.
5. Tail Hemming
No. 209
The #209 hinged foot hemmer is available in a 3/16" finish. The hinged
feature allows for some give as you cross over the side seam.
No. 209A
Foot Hemmer is also available with AIR JET, which helps eliminate loose
thread strands.
The swing hemmer is used for straighter runs and is available with a spring
for side seams. The swing out bracket is recommended for easy finishing.
Special presser foot recommended.
No. 210
Page | 231
Page | 232
6. Button Stay Hemming

No. 211
No. 211A
No. 211B
Upturned hemmer with lining for use on lockstitch machines. Various

styles are available with or without lining. Special presser foot
recommended.
Downturned hemmer for use on chainstitch machines. Special presser
foot recommended.
This picture illustrates a button stay hemmer with a separate strip added
underneath. Bottom stripper available with or without lining. Used on
double needle chainstitch machines.
Page | 233
7. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve
For use on lockstitch machines with lining and

face goods in short pieces.
For use on chainstitch machines with lining in rolls

and face goods in pieces or rolls.
Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size

lining and face goods.
Hemmer is adjustable to accommodate different size

lining and face goods.
Please specify hem size and stitch margin.

Special presser foot is recommended.
Please specify hem size and stitch margin. Special

presser is recommended.
Page | 234
8.
Setting Sleeve Plackets
Used to sew a continuous facing around the

sleeve opening.
Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on

the sleeve opening.
Folder is designed for easy loading of short

pieces. Edge guide foot is recommended.
Folders are available in top and bottom sets when cut

sizes of top and bottom placket strips are different.
Edge guide foot is recommended.
9. Closing Side Seams

Lap Seam Folders
Lap seam folders are used to close side seams.

Folder available with separate width adjustment. Lap seam folder can also be made with a spring
release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely.
Please specify make and gauge of machine and send material with a sample of the sleeve seams.
Page | 235
10. Sleeve Setting

There are two types of variations for the Sleeve Setting
Single Needle Sleeving
Set of guides for joining the armhole to the sleeve Turns the sleeve up as the body is pulled over and stitched
on high quality shirts.
down.
Adjustable margin settings. Special presser foot is Produces a quality finish and appearance. Special presser
recommended.
foot is recommended.
Page | 236
Imitation Single Needle Sleeving
Folder hems the sleeve and joins it to the body, using a double needle machine.
Compensating Foot is used on second top stitching operation.
11. Attach Center Placket

Top Center Folder
Attaches the center plait to the shirt body. Folder features a separate concave lining track which
allows easier starts for all types of fabrics and a tight finish around the lining.
Bed plate mount or swing bracket mount is available. Body hemmer provided with folder.
Please specify: men or ladies' shirt-lining from right or left.
Page | 237
Used to make a one piece shirt front by hemming the shirt body itself.
Folder features a separate concave lining track which helps produce a tight finish.
Available in left hand (ladies'-neck start) and right hand (men's-neck start) models.
Used to eliminate shading problems and to match stripes and plaids.
Please Specify: man's or ladies' shirt-lining from right or left.
A variation of the imitation Center Front Folder for use on Men's and ladies' sport shirts.
The top of the front conceals the button hole which is sewn on the bottom tuck.
Page | 238
Attach Center Placket

(Horn Style Placket Folder)
Sometimes referred to as "Horn Type Top Center" or "Wrap Folder".

Used to sew a front, primarily on ladies' dress shirts and "pullover" type sport shirts.
Available with or without lining. Material generally cut in short pieces, but can also be cut in rolls.
Page | 239

(French Front Folder)
Generally used on first quality men's shirts. Available for single and double needle machines.
Available with or without lining.

Plastic Presser Foot
Clear plastic feet are used in conjunction

with the center front operation.
The transparent feature allows the
operator to match stripes and plaids
more easily. Available for most multineedle machines.
Page | 240

Top Center with Double Lining Track
Allows use of either single ply or full wrap lining.

Available for bed plate mount or swing up mount.
12. Pleat Gauge

Pleat Gauge
Used for decorative trim on shirt pockets, as wella s back and front body pleats.
Made for most double needle machines.
Face goods may be in pieces or rolls - lining must be in rolls. Several pleat styles are available.
Page | 241
CHAPTER XIII
MONTHLY SCHEDULE FOR SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING PROGRAMME
Page | 242
Name:
Prior experience (Operations):
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
Target
Day
Simultaneous
2
3
4
5
5.5
6.5
7
8.5
Parallel with FE
Exercise
Sl.
No.
1
2
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
16
17
18
19
20
21
23
24
25
27
28
29
30
Name
Pin Board (RH)
Pin Board (LH)
Pedal control at max speed (Pe1)
Precise stops at max speed
(Pe2)
Straight stitches at max speed (Pe3)
Change direction with needle down (Pe4)
Judging changes of direction (Pe5)
Swing curve with one hand
(Pe6)
Swing in circles
(Pe7)
Swing curves
(Pe8)
OL Swing straight line
(Pe9)
OL exact stop
(Pe10)
OL Straight lines and curves (Pe11)
Cleaning machine
(Me0)
Threading machine
(Me1)
Re threading machine
(Me2)
Changing bobbin
(Me3)
Changing needle
(Me4)
Changing colour of thread
(Me5)
Sew endless loop
(Fe0)
Sew 6 x 6, sewing off
(Fe1)
Sew 6 x 6, Staying within
(Fe2)
Sew 6 x 6, Back tack
(Fe3)
Sew 3 sides 6 x 12
(Fe4)
12 x 6, Top stitch
(Fe5)
Back tack 12 x 12,
(Fe6)
Hemming 6x6 in chain (5 pcs)(Fe7)
Attach Pocket
(Fe8)
Cuff Run stitch
Cuff top stitch
Collar Run stitch
Collar top stitch
Collar pick ready
Sleeve Plackets attach
Sleeve Plackets finishing
Back yoke attach & Edge stitch
Shoulder attach &Edge stitch
Collar attaching & finishing
Side seam attach
Bottom hemming
Sleeve attaching
Sleeve Finishing
Start
Date
Starting Date:
Ending Date:
Trainers Name:
End
Target
Date
45 sec
90 sec
nd
2 best
time
6 sec
5 sec
10 sec
8 sec
16 sec
6 sec
34 sec
5 sec
10 sec
20 sec
15 sec
35 sec
40 sec
8 sec
12 sec
8 sec
25 sec
15 sec
18 sec
21 sec
21 sec
14 sec
20 sec
30 sec
45 sec
45 sec
33 sec
35 sec
29 sec
60 sec
51 sec
120 sec
60 sec
60 sec
81 sec
120 sec
50 sec
39 sec
45 sec
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Sewing Machine Operations Mannual

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Sewing Machine Operations Mannual

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SEWING MACHINE OPERATIONS MANNUAL

ORIENT CRAFT FASHFION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

GERMAN DEVELOPMENT CO-OPERATION-GTZ

A. Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity

2. THREADING OF MACHINE (Single needle lock stitch machine)

A. Thread the Machine and Draw up the Bobbin Thread

A. Sewing 6x 6 Sewing off the material

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZE CHART

MACHINE MAINTAINANCE & SAFETY PRECATIONS

SEWING THREAD AND SELECTION CRITERIA

TYPES OF STITCHES AND SEAM

7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T SHIRT

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES

CHAPTER - XI - GARMENT MANUFACTURING

PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT

11. Top stitch along edges

30. Shoulder attach using folder

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE

1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE

2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE

3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE:

The working surface of the machine under winch is located the

Belt (motor belt or machine

check spring (tension spring or

feed dogs (feed dog, feeder or

The back of the presser foot.

Hook(rotary hook or machine

Knee Lift (Knee Lifter or knee

The electrical unit that drives the machine.

Needle screw (needle bar clamp)

The screw that holds the needle in the needle bar.

The part that Indicates the amount of oil in self-oiling machines.

Pan (machine pan)

The bar to which the presser foot is attached.

Presser bar lifter

A device that holds the fabric in place for stitching.

Control that regulates the amount of pressure on the (pressure dial)

Rotary hook assembly

The part that holds the bobbin case.

Slack thread regulator

A metal hook or bar near the tension discs.

Slide plate (slide or bed slide)

Sole (shoe or slipper)

A metal structure upon which the table is mounted.

Stitch hole (needle hole)

A device that regulates stitch length.

Switch (power switch)

A key or button that turns the machine on and off.

Take-up lever guard

A piece of metal in front of the thread take-up lever.

Thread guides (thread eyelets)

Thread retainer (pretension)

A three-hole guide that applies a small amount of tension on the thread

A metal device that holds thread cones.

Treadle (foot treadle)

A metal platform on which the feet rest.(Note: In case of an accident,

5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES

C. BARTACK SEWING MACHINE

D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE

E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE

Lock stitch [bobbin, bobbin case are used].

F. FEED OF THE ARM

SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES