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MASTER OF FASHION MANAGEMENT

2016 - 2018

FASHION
ORIENTATI

SUBMITTED BY
BATHULA MEGHANA [ Roll No 5 ]

SUBMISSION DATE
07-09-2016

SUBMITTED TO
ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR RAKHI PRATAP

INDEX

S.No

NAME OF THE TOPIC

PAGE NO

INTRODUCTION

COSTUMES AND TEXTILE ROYAL OF INDIA

BACKGROUND AND EARLY LIFE

HISTORY OF THE COMPANY

AMBITIONS AND CHALLENGES IN FIELDS

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT IN DESIGN

ASSOCIATIONS WITH DIFFERENT FIELDS

USP AND STYLING

COLLECTIONS { Revivalist Collection}

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BRANDS

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AWARDS AND ACHIEVEMENTS

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PRODUCTS

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13

SOURCES OF INSPIRATION

10

14

FACES BEHIND THE ARTISTRY OF RITU KUMAR

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STYLE AND VARIETY

11

16

PRESENT DAY SCENARIO AND GLOBAL INFLUENCE

12

17

INNOVATIONS

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18

INTERESTING FACTS

12

19

HIGH POINT IN CAREER

12

20

HER ADVISE TO ASPIRANTS

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5-9
9
9-10

10-11

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REFERENCES

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RITU KUMAR

INTRODUCTION
Ritu Kumar is one of the foremost designers in the Indian fashion industry
credited with boutique brands such as Ritu Kumar and Ri along with Label
Ritu Kumar which runs under the leadership of her son. She developed a unique
style of her own, reflecting the ancient traditions of Indian craftsmanship in a
contemporary vocabulary. With a background in art history and museology,
which has enriched her horizons, Ritus understanding of ancient designs and the
innovative use of traditional crafts has created a new classicism.

COSTUMES AND TEXTILE ROYAL OF INDIA


In October 1999, Christies of London published Ritu Kumars book Costumes and
Textiles of Royal India a definitive chronicle of the history of Indias royal
patronage to textile arts down the centuries starting with the historical context of
Mohenjo Daro to the present era of vintage royalty. The book is an academic
fashion history text which has become a key reference for its field in India.

HER BACKGROUND AND EARLY LIFE


She was born in Amritsar, Punjab in the year 1944. She graduated in 1964 from
Lady Irwin College in Delhi and pursued her higher education from Briarclif
College in New York. She has a background in art history and museology. Her
enterprise as an Indian designer began nearly 40 years ago in Kolkata in West
Bengal.
Ritu, who began her work with four hand-block printers and two tables in a small
village near Calcutta forty years ago, was the first woman to introduce the
boutique culture in India under the brand name Ritu. Today she has outlets in 14
cities in India. Her boutiques feature a multifaceted showcase encompassing the
very best of Indian design, with specially produced range of high fashion
garments and accessories using silk, leather and cotton.
She also is credited as being one of the first Indian designers who was catalytic
in bringing a contemporary idiom to several ancient skills and has been a strong
force in marketing them to a dynamic modern India. Over the years, Ritu Kumars
work as a fashion designer has shown a progression, which has matured beyond
textile crafts. She has a unique ability to evolve with each collection into creative
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styling, translating textures and embellishments into refreshingly new and


unexpectedly contemporary silhouettes, making her work particularly relevant
from Indias fashion point of worldview.
While Ritu Kumars forte lies in traditional Indian clothes that draw heavily on the
textile and embroidery heritage of India, she has also evolved another style for
the young buyer, a collection that in her words has redefined traditional
handwriting to meet the changing needs of the new generation. The inspiration
of these garments is basic Indian motifs, prints and embroideries but with the
usage of a wide range of western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles.

HISTORY OF HER COMPANY

Mrs.Ritu Kumar became the first woman to introduce the boutique culture in
India under the brand name Ritu.
Her work is constantly evolving within an aesthetic which is sophisticated
both in the eastern and western sense, with each of her collections making a
contemporary statement in a fast changing modern India.
The Brand Ritu Kumar has been retailing in Europe and India since 1970s.

AMBITIONS IN LIFE
To be able to continue the research and revival work that has been started in the
craft areas.

CHALLENGES IN THE FIELDS


To be constantly innovative and understand the needs of a new generation
without losing the inherent thread of ones work to ones handwriting.

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT IN DESIGN

Leather ready-made and accessories using traditional techniques - The


collection Karabagh launched in 1994.
Development of handloom weaving to suit ready to wear needs, in
Maheshwar, Andhra
Pradesh, Orissa and Tamil Nadu
Revival of tie/dye in selected areas in Gujarat.
Revival and change in end use of the printing techniques of Tanjore
Research into traditional design motifs to translate them from traditional uses
to leather and textiles printing
Development of a specialized printing unit at Balabhgarh employing modern
techniques of screen-printing
Continuing work on established lines, producing to collections a year for
national retail outlets in: traditional zardozi, kashida, handblock prints, ethnic
embroideries by machine and hand, kantha

HER ASSOCIATIONS WITH DIFFERENT FIELDS


Membership of Governing/ Executive bodies:
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All India Handloom Board at the Ministry of Textiles


Delhi Crafts Council, Delhi Chapter
Divyachhaya Save a Child Trust, Calcutta/Delhi

Board of Governors

National Institute of Fashion Technology

USP AND STYLING

Her styling is her USP


Her style is intrinsically feminine-romantic with a flamboyant twist. It is about
enhancing a womans individuality and persona.
The silhouettes exude youthful charm with a feel of underlying sensuality and
grandeur.
She works with intricate embroideries.
Creates interesting textures which adds allures to a look
The silhouettes are mix of rich traditional costumes with an exclusive
contemporary look.

COLLECTIONS
I believe in going deep into the roots of every design to find out its relevance in
the present context. I also try and visualize whether a woman would look elegant
in my designs. Its a lot of hard work. But then this is a very competitive field and
unless you put in that extra efort you will efort you will tag far behind Ritu
Kumar First City, Aug-99

Ritu Kumars forte is traditional Indian clothes that draw heavily on the
textile and embroidery heritage of India and remains classics of their kind.
Her Indo-West fusion wear has all the trappings of blocks prints,
embroidery and craft inputs on a western style.
She has been designing the wardrobes comprising swim-wear, evening
wear, traditional Indian wear casual wear, formal evening gown; of the
winning three Miss Indias for their participation in the International beauty
pageants (Miss Universe, Miss World and Miss India Pacific respectively).
In 2002, Ritu Kumar started her brand Label dealing with her superb
range of designer suits, sarees, lehengas, kurtis, bottoms,
bags catering to the luxury desires of women worldwide.
Her brand Label symbolically represents women who want to transcend
the boundary of the hackneyed fashion experience towards something
more distinctive and unique.

REVIVALIST COLLECTION
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BENARAS BROCADES

Nevertheless, she holds the reputation of being the revivalist, for she has
always kept pace with the dynamic fashion trends, thereby catering to the
changing demands of people while becoming a link between the conventional
and the modern calls of the time.
A legacy of Ritu Kumars world renowned textile revival work, the project
"Varanasi Weaves" was undertaken to re-create the aesthetics of the
weaves once hand loomed in Kashi, which is perhaps the worlds last and only
surviving hand brocading centre.
Our new revivalist collection reinvigorates the colours, soft drape and the
subtle gold embellishments handcrafted on exquisite hand woven fabrics,
saris and lehengas in the royal Indian era.
Dismally in the last 100 years the designs and sensation of the gold and silver
brocading of Benaras have gone through a change diminishing the heritage of
the exclusive Benarasi weaves.
In an efort towards their revival our design studios have been inspired by
vintage fabrics and museum collections and have used looms and the talents
of the designers or Nakshbands of this unique ancient city.

HER OPULENT LEHENGAS

HER SAREE COLLECTION

DESIGNER SUITS
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PANCHVASTRA 2012

BRANDS

In 2002, she was joined by her son Amrish and launched a sub brand LABEL
Ritu Kumar. LABEL uses the established forte of traditional Indian design and
converts it into a fashion oriented international product. The brands charter
involves pushing boundaries and forging alliances with design talent across
the world to create a unique, sophisticated product.
This is aimed at the young global Indian woman with a contemporary lifestyle.
LABEL retails from most Ritu Kumar stores as well as some standalone stores.
Today her brand has grown to retail through twenty-seven stores across the
country.
She has pioneered the term fashion in the Indian context and more
importantly has demonstrated that hand-made products can be as profitable
and even more glamorous than those made by machine .

AWARDS AND ACHIEVEMENTS


Ritu pioneering work in reviving master craftsmanship has earned her several
accolades such as

In 1999, published a book Costumes and Textiles of Royal India which


chronicles the history of textiles and art design in India.

Indira Gandhi Priyadharshini Award:

She has been the recipient of numerous awards such as the Indira Gandhi
Priyadarshini Award for her contribution in the field of fashion .

Chevalier Des Arts Et Des Lettres:

She has been bestowed with the prestigious award of Chevalier des arts et
des lettres (knight of the order of arts and letters) by the French
government. The award is recognition of her contribution to Indian textile
crafts, and traditional techniques.

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Loreal Paris Femina Womens Award:

Most recently, she was awarded the Achievement Award in 2012 at the Loreal
Paris Femina Womens Awards.

Padma Shri Award:

She has also been awarded Padma Shri Award 2013, the country's fourth
highest civilian award for her exceptional and distinguished service in the
field of fashion, textile and craftsmanship.

Over the span of her career, she has been bestowed with many other
honors. She is also one of the founding members of the All India Artisans
and Craft Workers Welfare Association (AIACA) along with four other
renowned Indian fashion brands.

PRODUCTS

The products include couture, formal prt accessories and a fashion


forward sub brand called LABEL, Ritu Kumar.
Currently Ritika Pvt. Limited operates two main production centers Gurgaon
and Calcutta.
Factories are equipped with in-house printing, tailoring, finishing and quality
control facilities. It self runs and franchises retail outlets under the label RITU
KUMAR.
Her Couture Show happened in 2008, 2009, 2010

SOURCES OF INSPIRATION

Her background in art history and museology has inspired her line of clothing
designs and ensembles. Preferring to work with fabrics like silk, cotton and
leather, Ritu Kumars outfits are stunning in their richness, elegance and
intricacy of embroidery. Her clothes actively reflect the rich embroidery
heritage of India, whether in their motifs, type of stitching or the elements
used in the embroidery.
Her more recent line of clothing caters to the contemporary Indian woman,
her inspiration draws on Indias fashion heritage meeting the changing needs
of the new generation. While Indian prints, embroideries and motifs still
feature heavily in these outfits, the array of silhouettes mingles Western and
Indian styles.

FACES BEHIND THE ARTISTRY OF RITU KUMAR

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Her roots and the history of her current empire reflect her investment into
preserving the traditional Indian crafts and respect for the craftsmen who
have been given the knowledge of execution of these crafts.
Her campaign, beautiful hands, encourages the purchase of garments and
accessories that showcase ethnic Indian styles of embroidery.
To go with this campaign, she has started a line of clothing known as The
Revivalist. The premise of this clothing line is to resurrect traditional Indian
crafts and integrate them into mainstream fashion.
The first two craft forms that have been taken up by this designer in
association with grassroots social enterprises are the Kutch and Shibori
forms of embroidery.
The videos catalogue the behind-the-scenes of Ritu Kumars collections i.e.
the people, the processes and the techniques.
She has been working with the craftsmen in Kolkata since the beginning.
Among others, a lot of Ritu Kumars work showcases work and textiles such as
Jamdani and Tangail.
The legacy of the craftsmen and their ancestors interspersed with Ritu
Kumars own legacy are made known through this campaign.

STYLE AND VARIETY

Although Ritu Kumar is almost synonymous with Indian traditional textiles and
fashion, her personal journey in fashion has evolved over the years to meet
the expectations of diferent generations from across the globe.
Her contemporary spin on traditional designs have been smartly incorporated
into silhouettes that are fresh and reinvented with every season.
The styling and textures of her ensembles is creative and appealing to the
style-quotients of consumers from across the globe.
Her contribution towards making Indian ethnic fashion known and consumed
by international clientele is noteworthy.
Her bridal collection is considered a show-stopper on the runway and features
a lot of Zari, Zardozi and other forms of embroidery that make use of this
precious metal.
Under the Ritu Kumar banner, she has designed and sold Indian ethnic wear,
including a selection of customizable garments as well as bridal outfits, such
as suits, sarees, lehengas, kurtis and accessories.
The Label Ritu Kumar Banner however, is a collection of Western silhouettes
featuring traditional Indian embellishments.
To go with the outfits are several modish accessories such as sling bags which
again prominently popularize Indian forms of textile crafts hewn onto leather.

HER MOTIF

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PRESENT DAY SCENARIO AND GLOBAL INFLUENCE

As mentioned earlier, Ritu Kumar was one of the first female Indian designers
credited with bringing boutiques to India along with being the face of
traditional Indian textile craft forms complemented by the atypical Indian
color palette.
For many years, she has designed and dressed the Miss India pageant
winners on international pageant platforms such as Miss Universe, Miss
India and Miss Asia-Pacific. Her ensembles have been worn and admired by
celebrities such as Nargis Fakhri, Lara Dutta, Priyanka Chopra, Dia Mirza and
Aishwarya Rai.
Ritu Kumars International patrons include the late Princess Diana, musician
and singer Anoushka Shankar as well as actress cum model Mischa Barton.

INNOVATIONS

Innovations are a big part of Ritu Kumars fashion dialect. Whether it is


presenting traditional textile art forms in a new way on traditional garments
or traditional art forms on Western clothes, she has continuously refreshed
her line in many ways, while keeping the cultural flavour and heritage of India
alive.
Another example of such innovation is the brands accessories and the ease
of their amalgamation into Indian as well as Western looks.

INTERESTING FACTS

Narrating the history of textiles in India, Ritu Kumar published the book
Costumes and Textiles of Royal India in 1999.

Her brand Ritu Kumar has been actively trading in India as well as Europe
since 1970.

By engaging craftsmen from a village near Kolkata, she has been credited
with the resurrection of Zardozi which was a flourishing art during the Mughal
period.

HIGH POINT IN HER CAREER

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The completion of the book, The Costumes and Textiles Of Royal India and
tableau, The tree of life, both of which reflected the textile richness of this
country.

HER ADVISE TO ASPIRANTS

There are no shortcuts in any profession. If the job is worth doing, it will take a lot
of sweet and endeavour. Be prepared to not create genious and hope something
will evolve at the end.

REFERENCES

http://www.metromela.com/indian-fashion-designer-ritu-kumar/

http://www.ritukumar.com/profile/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ritu_Kumar

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