Skin CARE FORMULARY

Skin Care Formulary Contents

This information is presented in good faith, and
believed to be correct, but no warranty as
to accuracy of results or fitness for a particular use
is given, nor is freedom from patent infringement
to be inferred. It is offered solely for your
consideration, investigation and verification.

Creams
Lotions
Cleansers
Miscellaneous
Supplier Listing

CREAMS

87
89
90
90
92

Soft Cream

(Dow Corning)
This antiaging cream offers sebum absorption and leaves a soft feel on the skin.

Deep Moisturizing Creme

(Colonial Chemical Inc.)
This cream is a light, elegant formulation that offers long-lasting skin conditioning benefits.
A. Potassium cetyl phosphate (Cola Fax CPE-K, Colonial)
Stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate
(Cola Lipid ST, Colonial)
Titanium dioxide
Water (aqua)
B. Cetyl alcohol
Myristyl myristate
Isopropyl palmitate
Dimethicone, 100 cS
Lanolin alcohol
C. Pigment
Fragrance (parfum)
Preservative

1.20%
2.50
0.50
85.30
2.00
3.00
4.00
1.00
0.50
qs
qs
qs

Procedure: Heat A with agitation to 60C. Separately heat B to 60C. Homogenize

B into A for a sufficient time to ensure good emulsification. Stir and cool to
45C. Add C to batch.

Procedure: Combine A. In a separate container, combine B. Add B to A with mixing.

Separately combine C and add to AB with high-shear mixing.

Anti-wrinkle Cream
(Silab)

Spa Moisturizing Cream

(Presperse)
A. Water (aqua)
59.70%
Glycerin
3.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) ethylhexylglycerin (and)
hexylene glycol (Botanistat PF-64, Botanigenics)
1.00
Disodium EDTA (Dissolvent NA2S, Akzo Nobel)
0.10
Carbomer, 2% solution (Carbopol 2001, Noveon)
15.00
B. C18-21 alkane (and) polyisobutene (Permethyl 246C, Presperse)
8.00
Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 (Lipomulse 165, Lipo Chemical) 3.25
Cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O, Lipo Chemical)
0.75
Ceteth-20 (Lipocol C-20, Lipo Chemical)
0.40
Stearic acid
1.50
Butyrosperum parkii (Shea Butter, Protameen)
1.00
Cyclopentasiloxane (DC 245 Fluid, Dow Corning)
3.00
C. Sodium hydroxide, 18%% solution (Sodium Hydroxide, Amresco) 0.30
D. Peat extract (Fytobel White Peat, Presperse)
0.50
Water (aqua) Chondrus crispus (carrageenan) extract
(Oligogeline, Presperse)
2.00
Water (aqua) (and) butylene glycol (and) fructan (Fructan, Presperse) 0.50

100.00
Procedure: Combine A in a main kettle and heat to 78-80C. Separately
combine B and heat to 80C. Add B to A at 80C with shear mixing and
homogenize for 5-8 min or until batch is uniform. Cool batch with prop
mixing to 65-70C. Add C to batch with slow prop mixing and increase
speed as the batch starts to build viscosity. Cool batch to 35C. At 35C,
add D to batch and prop mix for 5-8 min or until batch is uniform. Cool
batch to 25C.

Vol. 123, No. 1/January 2008

A. Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) alumina

(DC EP-9293 AL Cosmetic Powder, Dow Corning)
2.00%
Cyclopentasiloxane (DC 245 Fluid, Dow Corning)
4.00
B. Sodium polyacrylate (and) dimethicone (and) cyclopentasiloxane
(and) trideceth-6 (and) PEG-PPG-18/18 dimethicone
(DC RM 2051 Thickening Agent, Dow Corning)
4.00
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer
(DC 9045 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow Corning)
5.00
Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Myritol 312, Cognis)
3.00
C. Divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer (and) C1213 pareth-3
(and) C1213 pareth-23 (DC HMW 2220 Nonionic Emulsion,
Dow Corning)
3.00
Panthenol (D-Panthenol USP, BASF)
0.50
Water (aqua)
75.40
DMDM hydantoin (Glydant, Lonza)
0.10
Ginkgo biloba leaf extract (Extrapone Ginkgo Biloba, Symrise)
3.00

100.00

A. Water (aqua)
qs to 100.00%
B. Sorbitan stearate (Montane 60, Seppic)
3.00
Polysorbate 60 (Montanox 60 DF, Seppic)
2.00
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (Lanol 1688, Seppic)
10.00
Isononyl isononanoate (Lanol 99, Seppic)
5.00
C. Polyacrylamide (and) C 13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7
(Sepigel 305, Seppic)
1.50
D. Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and)
butylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben
(Phenonip, Clariant)
0.70
E. Water (aqua) (and) Secale cereale (rye) seed extract (Coheliss, Silab) 4.00
Procedure: Separately heat A and B to 80C. Add B to A with mixing. Cool to 30C and
add C in order, D and E. Continue homogenizing until the cream becomes uniform.

Whipped Cream Moisturizer

(Arch Personal Care)

This whipped skin moisturizer features instantly hydrates skin and regulates moisture
long-term by channeling it to the areas where it is most neededneeded most.
A. Water (aqua)
Water (aqua) (and) trimethylolproane tricaprylate/tricaprate (and)
glycerin (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth 20 (and)
glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) steareth-2 (and)
dimethicone (and) ceteth-24 (and) choleth-24 (and) phospholipid
(and) propylene glycol (and) methylparaben (and) propylparaben
(and) diazolidinyl urea (and) disodium EDTA (SMEC
Concentrate #1, Arch Personal Care)
B. Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789, Roche)
Homosalate (Neo Heliopan HMS, Symrise)

qs

50.00%
2.50
5.50

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Skin CARE FORMULARY

Ethylhexyl salicylate (Dermoblock OS, Alzo)

C. Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate (and) copolymer
(and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) sorbitan laurate (and)
trideceth-6 (ViscUp EZ, Arch Person Care)
D. Water (aqua) (and) urea (and) yeast amino acids (and) trehalose (and)
inositol (and) taurine (and) betaine (DermaFlux, Arch Personal Care)
Phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) chlorphenesin
(Mikrokill COS, Arch Personal Care)
Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron oxide (Timica Brilliant
Gold 212G+, BASF)

4.00
2.50
1.00
0.75
0.50

Procedure: Combine A. Mix until uniform. Pre-mix B and add to A while mixing.
Slowly add C to batch with rapid mixing. Add D to the batch in order, mixing
well between each addition.

Microdermabrasion Cream
(Lubrizol/Noveon)

This microdermabrasion cream is designed to finely polish skin using a slip that
facilitates the application process. Grape seed and chamomile extracts are incorporated for their antioxidant and anti-irritancy properties.
A. Water (aqua)
58.95%
B. Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, Lubrizol/Noveon)
0.30
C. Disodium EDTA (Protachem NA2-P, Protameen)
0.05
Methyl gluceth-10 (Glucam E-10 Humectant, Lubrizol/Noveon)
3.00
D. Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate (Schercemol NGDO Ester,
Lubrizol/Noveon)
10.00
Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20 (Promulgen D Emulsifier,
Lubrizol/Noveon)
4.00
Isostearyl hydroxystearate (Schercemol SHS Ester, (Lubrizol/Noveon) 1.00
Dimethicone, 50 cst (SF96-50, Momentive/GE)
1.00
Tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E Acetate, Protameen Chemicals)
1.000.25
Stearic acid (Stearic Acid PC, Protameen)
2.00
Stearyl alcohol (Stearyl Alcohol PC, Protameen)
0.50
E. Sodium hydroxide, 18% solution
0.50
F. Alumina (Catalox SCCA 5/150 Alumina Powder, Sasol)
15.00
G. Vitis vinifers (grape) seed extract (and) PEG-10 olive glycerides
(and) propylene glycol (Herbasol Grape Seed Extract PG,Chamomile
(Matricaria)
Extract PG, Cosmetochem)
1.00
Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract (and) propylene
glycol (Herbasol Chamomile (Matricaria) Extract PG, Cosmetochem) 1.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and)
butylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben
(Phenonip, Clariant)
0.70

100.00
Procedure: Sprinkle B on the surface of A (not agitating) and allow to wet. Allow
polymer to wet. Begin gentle agitation. Add C to AB and mix until uniform. Heat
to 60C. In a separate vessel, combine D with mixing and heat to 60-65C.
Once temperatures are achieved and mixtures homogenous, add D to batch
with a mixing speed of approximately 500-600 rpm. When mixture is uniform,
remove heat. Add E to main batch to neutralize. Mix until uniform. Add F to
batch while increasing mixing speed to approx.imately 800 rpm to maintain a
uniform mixture. Allow batch to cool to 35-40C. Add G individually with good
mood mixing in between additions. Mix until uniform. Adjust for evaporation
with H if necessary.

Light Cold-processed Emulsion

(Sasol Olefins & Surfactants)

A. Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) stearalkonium bentonite (and)

propylene carbonate (Miglyol Gel T, Sasol)
7.00%
Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Miglyol 812, Sasol)
10.00
Caprylic/capric/linoleic triglyceride (Miglyol 818, Sasol)
7.00
Caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride (Miglyol 829, Sasol)
3.00
Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (Imwitor 600, Sasol)
3.00
Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate (Imwitor 780 K, Sasol)
1.00
Olea europaea (olive) oil
5.00
Antioxidant
qs
B. Glycerin
2.00
Magnesium sulfate x 7 H2O
1.20
Preservative
qs
Water (aqua)
qs to 100.00
C. Fragrance (parfum)
qs
Procedure: Mix A and B separately. Homogenize A. Mix B. Stir B slowly into A and
homogenize until an even particle size distribution is achieved. Add C to batch.
NoteOTE: Homogenization with IKA Ultra-Turrax T-25 max. 13000 rpm.

Body Butter Creme

(BioChemica International)
A. Water (aqua)
50.70%
Glycerin
2.00
B. Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter (Cupuau Butter, BioChemica) 10.00
Cetearyl alcohol (and) polysorbate 60 (and) dicetyl phosphate
(and) ceteth-20 phosphate (Crodofos CS-20 Acid, Croda)
8.00
Shorea robusta seed butter (Sal Butter, BioChemica)
7.50
Garcinia india seed butter (Kokum Butter, BioChemica)
5.00
PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (Crodamol STS, Croda)
5.00
Cyclomethicone
4.00
Stearyl alcohol NF
2.50
Emulsifying wax
2.00
C. Fragrance (parfum) (Aloe and Cucumber G5520, Carrubba)
2.50
2-Phenoxyethanol (and) 1,2-octanediol (and) hexylene glycol
(Diocide, DIOW)
0.80

100.00
Procedure: Heat A to 80C for 20 min under prop agitation. Separately heat B to
80C or until completely melted. Add A to B and mix under prop agitation.
Emulsify with homogenizer at moderate speed while using a medium yield
mesh screen. Begin to cool down to 30C after smooth glassy liquid is
obtained. Switch from homogenizer to a paddle or sideswipe at 55C. Add
C to batch between 40-50C. Cool to RT under constant side wipe.

Vanishing Cream

(Ajinomoto Co., Inc.)

This acidic formulation leaves a non-greasy feeling. It is acidic. The viscosity of this
formulation is maintained at a wide range of temperatures.
A. Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (Gelatinization Agent GP-1, Ajinomoto)
2.00%
Cetyl alcohol (Cetanol SP-D50, Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo)
3.00
Isostearyl alcohol (Isostearyl Alcohol EX, Kokyu Alkohol Kogyo)
7.00
Stearic acid
4.00
B. Polysorbate 60 (Rheodol TW-S120V, Kao)
2.00
Sorbeth-30 tTetraoleate (Nikkol GO-430NV, Nikko Chemicals)
0.50
Glyceryl stearate SE (Nikkol MGS-DEXV, Nikko Chemicals)
0.50
Cetyl palmitate (Nikkol N-SPV, Nikko Chemicals)
3.00
Paraffin (Paraffin Wax 125, Nippon Seiro)
3.00
Preservative
qs
C. Butylene glycol
7.00
Preservative
qs
D. Water (aqua)
qs to 100.00
Procedure: Separately combine A and B at 90C with stirring. Add A to B at 90C and
mix with stirring. Separately combine C and D at 90C with stirring. Add AB to CD at
90C and mix until homogeneous at 3000 rpm for 3 min. Cool to RT with stirring.

Antiage Challenge
(Seppic)

This unique formula has complete and curative efficacy with its ten containing 10ten
active ingredients to defy time.
A. Arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside
(Montanov 202, Seppic)
2.00%
Cetearyl alcohol (and) coco-glucoside (Montanov 82, Seppic)
2.00
Cetearyl alcohol
1.00
Dimethicone (DC 200/350, Dow Corning)
2.00
Squalane (Phytosqualan, Sophim)
10.00
Isostearyl isostearate
10.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and)
propylparaben (and) butylparaben (Sepicide HB, Seppic)
1.00
B. Water (aqua)
qs to 100.00
Tromethamine
0.70
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine (Sepiwhite MSH, Seppic)
1.00
Crosslinked polymethylmethacrylate (Sepimat HB V, Seppic)
0.50
C. Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline (Sepilift DPHP, Seppic
1.00
Xanthan gum (Keltrol CT G, Kelco)
0.15
Polyacrylate-13 (and) polyisobutene (and) polysorbate 20
(Sepiplus 400, Seppic)
1.00

Magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum HS, R.T. Vanderbilt)
0.20

Palmitoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein (Deepaline PVB, Seppic)
0.50
D. Magnesium aspartate (and) zinc gluconate (and) copper gluconate
(Sepitonic M3, Seppic)
1.00
Cimicifuga racemosa root extract (Phyto-age, Seppic)
0.10
Lactic acid, 90%
0.11
E. Manganese gluconate (and) (olive) extract (Manoliva, Seppic)
0.10

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Vol. 123, No. 1/January 2008

Skin CARE FORMULARY

F. Xylitylglucoside (and) anhydroxylitol (and) xylitol (Aquaxyl, Seppic) 3.00
G. Glycerin (and) acrylates polymer (and) VP/polycarbamyl polyglycol
ester (and) hydrolyzed/sesame protein PG-propyl methylsilanediol
(Sesaflash, Seppic)
10.00
H. Fragrance (parfum) (Herbax, Robertet)
0.30
Hydroxypropyltrimonium maltodextrin crosspolymer (and)
Cucumis melo fruit extract (Extramel C, Seppic)
0.10
Potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate (Sepivital, Seppic)
0.01
Procedure: Separately combine A and B and heat to 85C. Add C to A while mixing
with a spatula. Add AC to B while homogenizing. Remove heat and add D in
order into the vortex, drop by drop. At 60C, add E drop by drop into batch.
Add F to batch. At 50C, add G. Continue to cool down and at 30C, add H
in order. Mix well after each addition.

Eye Gel Cream

(Beraca)

This product promotes long-lasting moisturizing and anti-aging action.

A. Water (aqua)
qs to 100.00%
Aloe barbadensis extract (Beracare S4110, Beraca)
2.00
Phospholipids (and) maltodextrin (and) silica (Beracare LPFF, Beraca) 1.50
Polyquaternium-10 (Beracare PQS10, Beraca)
1.00
Xanthan gum, 2% solution (Keltrol CG, CP Kelco)
10.00
B. Cetearyl alcohol
2.00
Steareth-2 (and) steareth-21 (and) PPG-15 stearyl ether
(Beracare APS, Beraca)
0.50
Theobroma grandiflorus seed butter (Rain Forest RF3410,
Cupuau Butter Refined, Beraca)
0.50
Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil (Rain Forest RF3810, Buriti Oil Refined, Beraca) 2.00
C. Water (aqua)
5.00
Imidazolidinyl urea (Germall 115, ISP)
0.30
D. Fragrance (parfum)
qs
Procedure: Mix A in order and heat to 75-80C, stirring until totally dispersed.
Separately heat B to 75-80C. Add A to B and homogenize for 10 min,
stirring and maintaining temperature until homogeniztion. Cool to 40C
and add C while stirring moderately. Add D and homogenize. Cool to RT
while stirring.

Silky Skin Lotion

(Stepan Co.)

This lotion provides a dry, silky after feel.

A. Water (aqua)
B. Steareth-20 (Brij 78, Uniqema)
C. Laury lactyl lactate (Stepan-Mild L3, Stepan)
Isopropyl palmitate (Hallstar IPP, Hallstar)
Cetyl alcohol (Lipocol C, Lipo Chemicals)
Glyceryl stearate (Hallstar GMS Pure, Hallstar)
D. Preservatives
Color
Dye
E. Citric acid
Sodium hydroxide

qs to 100.00%
1.00
3.00
10.00
3.00
2.00
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs

Procedure: Charge vessel with A. Add B to A. Start mixing and heat to 170175C.
In a separate container, combine C. Heat to 170175C. Increase agitation of
AB and slowly add C into AB. Emulsify for 2025 min. Start cooling to 80F.
Add D, if desired. Adjust pH with E.

Milky Protective Lotion

(Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.)

This milk lotion is formulated with a soy-derived emulsifier to reduce irritation and
moisturize the skin. Butyl alcohol prevents inflammation and improves texture. It
is suitable to protect delicate, sensitive skin.
A. Hydrogenated lecithin (Nikkol Lecinol S-10, Nikko)
Butyl alcohol (Nikkol Butyl Alcohol EX, Nikko)
Ethylhexyl palmitate (Nikkol IOP, Nikko)
Dimethicone
Cyclomethicone
B. Xanthan gum
Glycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water (aqua)

3.00%
3.00
8.00
0.30
2.00
0.20
2.00
0.40
83.10

Procedure: Heat A and B separately to 80C. While mixing B by homomixer,

add A gradually to emulsify. Cool to RT while mixing with paddle mixer.

Silky Body Lotion

(Penreco)

LOTIONS

This lotion has a luxuriously light and silky feel.

Antiaging Lotion
(MMP Inc.)

This is a film-forming, natural moisturizing regulator for the skin. It is also used for
anti-aging and is an instant-smoothing tensor.
A. Water (aqua)
63./65%
Disodium EDTA
0.10
Water (aqua) (and) montmorillonite (and) cetyl alcohol (and)
glycerin (and) pentylene glycol (and) sucrose stearate (and)
scleroglucan (Matte Lite Concentrate 269, MMP)
15.00
Sucrose distearate (Sisterna SP30-C, MMP/Sisterna)
0.75
B. Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
(Clearocast 200, MMP)
5.00
Isododecane (and) isononyl isononanoate (Clearocast 550, MMP) 10.00
Zea mays (corn) (and) 7-dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC, 1% solution
in Corn Oil, MMP)
2.00
C. Preservative
0.30
Saccharide hydrolysate (and) saccharide/isomerate (and) glycerin
(and) water (aqua) (and) polyglycerin-3 (and) methylpropanediol
(and) scleroglucan (Liftaderm, MMP)
3.00
D. Fragrance (parfum)
0.20

100.00
Procedure: Combine A in main vessel. Mix with high shear agitation while heating. Continue heating and mixing until batch reaches 70C. Start cooling. In
side vessel, prepare B. At 60C, add B to main vessel. Start homogenizing
(6000-7000 rpm). Continue mixing with homogenizer until it builds viscosity.
Start sweep mixing 45C. Add C and D to batch. Continue mixing and cooling,
shut down at 34C.

Vol. 123, No. 1/January 2008

A. Water (aqua)
82.18%
Carbomer (Carbopol 940, Lubrizol/Noveon)
0.36
Disodium EDTA
0.10
Propylene glycol
2.00
B. Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (Arlacel 165, Croda)
1.50
Hydrogenated polydecene (and) ethylene propylene/styrene
copolymer (and) butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer
(Versagel MG 750, Penreco)
10.00
Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20 (Lipowax D, Lipo Chemicals) 2.00
C. Triethanolamine
0.21
Dizaolidinyl urea (Germall II, ISP)
1.00
Fragrance (parfum)
0.65

100.00
Procedure: Combine A with mixing and heat to 75-80C. In a different vessel,
combine B and heat with mixing to 80C. Combine A and B and mix. When
homogeneous, cool to 40C and add C.

Anti-wrinkle Moisture Lotion

(Corum Inc.)
This formula is formulated with a cholesterol derivative to replenishe natural skin lipids
and improve natural moisturization while peptides are used for their anti-wrinkle,
antiaging and skin firming effects.
A. Water (aqua)
B. Carbomer (Carbopol 941, 2%, Noveon)
C. Glyceryl stearate (and) steareth-20 (and) stearic acid
(Corum 2365, Corum)
Cetearyl alcohol (Nafol 1618H, Sasol)
Octyldodecyl myristate (Corum 5024, Corum)
Myristyl myristate (Corum 5028, Corum)

qs to 100.00%
15.00
10.00
1.00
1.00
2.00

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Skin CARE FORMULARY

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Corum 5041, Corum)
Cholesteryl hydroxystearate (Corum 5089, Corum)
Dimethicone (DC 225 Fluid, Dow Corning)
Dimethicone (DC 200/350 Fluid, Dow Corning)
Macadamia integrifolia nut oil (Madadamia Nut Oil, Floratech)
D. Sodium hydroxide, 10%
E. Sclerotium gum (Tinocare GL, Ciba)
Glycerin (and) palmitoyl tripeptide (Corum 8803, Corum)
Glycerin (and) palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 (Corum 8804, Corum)
Glycerin (and) palmitoyl hexapeptide (Corum 8806, Corum)
Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil (and) Lupinus albus
seed extract (Collageneer, Expanscience)
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol (DC 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning)
Methylisothiazolinone (Optiphen MIT, ISP)
Fragrance (parfum)

1.00
1.00
2.00
0.50
0.20
0.72
2.00
3.00
1.00
5.00
1.50
1.00
0.10
0.05

Procedure: Combine A to make a 2% dispersion. Combine B. Add A to B. Heat

AB to 75C. Separately combine C and heat to 75C. Add C to AB at 75C.
Add D to neutralize. Cool while stirring slowly. At about 40C, add E and mix
well between each addition.

K. Fragrance (parfum) (Hawaiian Rain, Wellington Fragrance)

0.34
FD&C Bblue No. 1 solution
0.063
D&C Rred No. 33 solution
0.034
L. Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) butter (and) hydrogenated jojoba oil
(and) tocopheryl acetate (and) soybean oil (Jojoba Butter
Beads-E, Desert Whale Jojoba)
2.50

100.00
Procedure: Combine A. Slowly add B to A with prop, scraping sides occasionally.
Heat to 75C with prop. Mix with prop as slowly as possible to minimize foam.
Add C to AB with prop maintaining 70-75C, scraping sides occasionally. Add
D to AB with prop maintaining 70-75C. Separately combine E, heat and mix
occasionally until clear. Separately combine F with prop. Sprinkle G in F with
prop and heat to 75C. Separately combine H and heat to 80C in oil bath.
Add E to FG with prop at 75C. Add ABCD to EFG at 75C with prop. Add H
at 80C to batch at 75C with prop, slowly allowing the additions to be taken
in. Add J to batch at 50C with prop and switch to sweep. Add D to batch at
RT with sweep. Add L at RT with sweep.

Body Scrub
(Micro Powders Inc.)

CLEANSERS
Creamy Moisturizing Body Wash
(Lipo Chemicals Inc.)
This formula is a rich body wash that keeps the skin from becoming defatted.
A. Water (aqua)
42.35%
Polyglyceryl-10 eicosanedioate/tetradecanedioate esters
(NeoSolue Aqua, Lipo/Nippon)
3.00
Disodium EDTA
0.10
B. Sodium laureth sulfate (Standapol ES-2, Cognis)
32.00
C. Cocamidopropyl betaine (Velvetex BK-25, Cognis)
10.00
Glycol distearate (Lipo EGDS, Lipo Chemicals)
1.25
Cocamide MEA (Comperlan 100, Cognis)
1.50
bis-Behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate
(Plandool G, Lipo/Nippon)
3.00
PEG-150 distearate (Lipopeg 6000-DS, Lipo Chemicals)
1.00
PEG-100 stearate (Lipopeg 100-S, Lipo Chemicals)
1.25
Polysorbate 20 (Liposorb L-20, Lipo Chemicals)
4.50
D. Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) methylisothiazolinone
(Kathon CG, Rohm & Haas)
0.05

100.00
Procedure: In main kettle, combine A and mix until uniform. Add B to A with prop
mixing. Mix until clear and uniform. Begin heating to 7075C. Separately
combine C and heat to 6065C. Mix until uniform. Add C to batch with prop
mixing. Begin cooling. At 40C, add D to batch. Cool to 30C.

Jojoba Exfoliating Facial Cream

(Desert Whale Jojoba Company)

A. Water (aqua)
53.70%
Water (aqua) (and) carbomer (Carbopol 940, 2% aq solution, Noveon) 10.00
Glycerin, USP
2.00
B. Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (Arlacel 165, Uniqema) 6.00
Isoeicosane (Permethyl 102A, Presperse)
5.00
Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (Liponate NPGC-2,
Lipo Chemicals)
8.00
Stearic acid
3.00
Stearyl alcohol (Lipocol S, Lipo Chemicals)
1.00
C. Polyethylene (Microscrub 50 PC, Micro Powders)
10.00
D. Triethanolamine, 99%
0.30
E. Propylene glycol (and) diazolidinyl urea (and) methylparaben (and)
propylparaben (Germaben II, ISP)
1.00

100.00
Procedure: Combine A with prop mixing and heat to 70C. Separately combine B
and heat to 75C. Add B to A with prop mixing. Hold at 72-75C for 15 min.
Add C to batch. Mix until uniform. Add D to batch. Mix until uniform. Cool to
40C. Add E to batch. Mix until uniform. Cool to 25-28C.

Facial Cleaner
(Pilot Chemical Co.)

Water (aqua)
75.00
Water (aqua), PEG-80 sorbitan laurate (and) sodium laureth sulfate
(and) cocamidopropyl betaine (and) sodium chloride (and) PEG-150
distearate (and) citric acid (and) quaternium-15 (and) tetrasodium
EDTAINCI nNot pProvided (CalBlend BSC, Pilot)
25.00
Sodium chloride
qs
Preservative
qs
Fragrance (parfum)
qs
Dye
qs

Procedure: Combine in order with constant mixing. Mix for 1 hran extra hour. The
final batch should be clear, smooth, homogenous and lump-free.

This facial cream gently exfoliates the face, while moisturizing the skin and acting
as a mild, nonionic surfactant that melts into the skin upon application for longlasting moisturization.
A Water (aqua)
30.00%
Tetrasodium EDTA (Versene 100, Dow Chemical)
0.05
B Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (Lathanol LAL Powder, Stepan)
5.00
C. Poloxamer 407 (Pluracare F127 Prill, BASF)
5.00
D. Jojoba wax PEG-120 esters (Jojoba Aqua SOL, Desert Whale Jojoba) 3.00
E. Methylparaben
0.25
Propylparaben
0.10
Glycerin (Emery 912, Cognis)
2.50
F. Water (aqua)
31.11
Tetrasodium EDTA (Versene 100, Dow Chemical)
0.05
G. Hydroxyethylcellulose (Cellosize HEC QP-52, 000H, Dow Chemical) 0.50
H. Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil (Jojoba Oil Colorless,
Desert Whale Jojoba)
8.90
Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-30 stearate (Arlatone 983S, Uniqema) 8.90
Stearyl alcohol (Crodacol S-70, Croda)
1.50
J. DMDM hydantoiiooin (Mackstat DMDM Hydantiooin, McIntyre)
0.20

MISCELLANEOUS
Antiaging Serum
(Sederma)
This formula works on the origin of youth by targeting the cell actors, guaranteeing
lifespan and youthfulness.
A. Water (aqua)
B. Xanthum gum
C. Carbomer (Ultrez 10, Noveon)
D. Water (aqua)
E. C1215 alkyl benzoate (Crodamol AB, Croda)
Phenoxyethanol
Polysorbate 20 (Crillet 1, Croda)
Cetearyl alcohol (Crodacol CS 90, Croda)
Sucrose polybehenate (Crodaderm B, Croda)

90 | Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

qs to 100.00%
0.40
0.30
5.00
3.00
0.80
0.50
1.00
0.50

Vol. 123, No. 1/January 2008

Skin CARE FORMULARY

PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (Crodamol STS, Croda)
0.50
Cetearyl octanoate (Crodamol CAP, Croda)
3.00
F. Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) teprenone-J.ouou-C-INCI nNot pProvidedit
ou-r, and , leaving the skin feeling fresh and radiant all day.ynnS & Mayr------ (Renovage, Sederma)
3.00
Acrylates/C 1030 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (Pemulen TR2, Noveon) 0.20
G. Potassium sorbate
0.10
H. Water (aqua)
3.00
Sodium hydroxide, 30%
0.40
Fragrance (parfum) (Azalea, Expressions Parfumes)
0.20
Procedure: Separately disperse B in A with Helix stirring (s = 30 rpm) for 1 hr.
Sprinkle C in D and allow swelling for 30 min. Separately combine E and heat
to 75C. Pour CD into AB and heat to 75C. Exptemporaneously, pour E and
F into batch with Helix stirring (s = 30 rpm) for 1 hr. Add G to batch. Add H to
batch in order and homogenize well.

Antiaging Face Mask

(Phoenix Chemical Inc.)
A. Water (aqua)
29.25%
Kaolin (WCD 2747 Colloidal Kaolin, MPSI)
25.00
B. Polycarbamyl polyglycol ester (Giovarex P-0580, Phoenix Chemical) 4.00
C. Glycerin USP
10.00

Vol. 123, No. 1/January 2008

PEG-8 (Carbowax PEG-400, Dow Chemical)

5.00
Bentonite (WCD 670 Bentonite NF BC, MPSI)
5.00
D. Triisostearin (Pelemol GTIS, Phoenix Chemical)
16.00
Perfluorononyl dimethicone (Pecosil FSU-300, Phoenix Chemical) 0.75
Glyceryl behenate (Pelemol GMB, Phoenix Chemical)
0.75
Cetearyl alcohol (and) steareth-30 (and) ceteth-10 (Phoenoxol T,
Phoenix Chemical)
1.50
E. Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) butylparaben (and)
ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben
(Eukyl K-300, schlke)
1.00
Butylene glycol (and) Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange peel)
extract (and) xanthan gum (and) methylparaben
(Hydrorange, Coletica)
1.00
Fragrance (parfum) (XBF-800058 Crisp Morning, IFF)
0.75

100.00
Procedure: Blend A in order with medium shear at 2030C. Fully disperse B
and mix for 1530 min. Do not aerate. Mix for 1015 min after ingredients
are combined. Separately blend B with medium shear mixer. Mix for 1530
min at 3040C until completely dispersed and uniform. Add AB to C. Mix for
510 min with medium shear. Heat to 7075C while mixing. Separately
combine and heat to 7075C. Mix slowly with a low-shear mixer for 510
min. Add D to batch using medium shear mixer. Mix slowly for 510 min. Cool
to 3040C with medium-shear mixing. Add E in order to batch with slow,
low-shear mixing. Mix for 1015 min between additions.

www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine | 91

Skin CARE FORMULARY

Supplier listing
Ajinomoto Co. Inc.

Fort Lee, NJ, USA

Tel: 1-201-292-3200
www.ajinomoto-usa.com

Arch Personal Care Products

South Plainfield, NJ, USA

Tel: 1-908-561-5200
E-mail: archpc@archchemicals.com
www.archpersonalcare.com

Beraca Ingredients

So Paulo, Brazil
Tel: 55-(11)-5509-3722
E-mail: beraca@guposabara.com.br
www.beraca.com.br

BioChemica International

Melbourne, FL, USA

Tel: 1-321-254-3444
E-mail: james@biochemica.com
www.biochemica.com

Centerchem Inc.

Norwalk, CT, USA

Tel: 1-203-822-9800
E-mail: cosmetics@centerchem.com
www.centerchem.com

Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG

40789 Monheim am Rhein, Germany
Tel: 49-2173-4995-412

Colonial Chemical Inc.

South Pittsburg, TN, USA

Tel: 1-423-837-8800
E-mail: danderson@colonialchem.com
www.colonialchem.com

Corum

Taipei, Taiwan
Tel: 1-886-2-8751-6060
E-mail: James.Lee@Corum.com.tw
www.corum.com.tw

Desert Whale Jojoba Co.

Tucson, AZ, USA

Tel: 1-520-882-4195
E-mail: marketing@desertwhale.com
www.desertwhale.com

DKSH North America

Baltimore, MD, USA

Tel: 1-410-385-1666
E-mail: tony.ansald@Dksh.com
www.dksh.com

Dow Corning Corp.

Midland, MI, USA
Tel: 1-989-496-6000

E-mail: lifesciences@dowcorning.com
www.dowcorning.com/personalcare

Eckart Cosmetic Colors LLC

Painesville, OH, USA

Tel: 1-440-954-7600
E-mail: shannon.stevens@altana.com
www.eckart.net

Evonik/Degussa

Dsseldorf, Germany
Phone: 49-211-65-04-10
Fax: 49-211-65-04-14-72
www.degussa.com

LCWSensient Cosmetic Technologies

Saint Ouen lAumone, France
Tel: 1-33-1-34-48-57-00
E-mail : lcw@lcw.fr
www.lcw.fr

Lipo Chemicals

Pentapharm (see Centerchem)

Penreco

The Woodlands, TX, USA

Tel: 1-281-362-3171
www.penreco.com

Pilot Chemical Inc.

Cincinatti, Ohio, USA

Tel: 1-513-326-0600
Fax: 1-513-326-0601
www.pilotchemical.com

Presperse Inc.

Somerset, NJ, USA

Tel: 1-732-356-5200
www.presperse.com

Provital (see Centerchem)

Phoenix Chemical

Paterson, NJ, USA

Tel: 1-193-345-8600
E-mail: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
www.lipochemicals.com

Somerville, NJ, USA

Tel: 1-908-707-0232
www.phoenix-chem.com

Lipotec (see Centerchem)

Cranbury, NJ, USA

Tel: 1-609-860-4000
E-mail: tobias.futterer@us.rhodia.com
www.rhodia-novecare.com

Lonza Inc.

Allendale, NJ, USA

Tel: 1-201-316-9250
E-mail: angela.sangirard@lonza.com
www.lonza.com

Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc./

Noveon Inc.
Cleveland, OH, USA
Tel: 1-216-447-5000
www.personalcare.noveon.com

Micro Powders Inc.

Tarrytown, NY, USA

Tel: 1-914-793-4058
E-mail: trgizzo@micropowders.com
www.mpipersonalcare.com

MMP Inc.

South Plainfield, NJ, USA

Tel: 1-908-561-4435
E-mail: dwillbergh@mmpinc.com
www.mmpinc.com

Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.

Tokyo, Japan
Tel: 81-3-3661-6826
E-mail: sakurada@nikkol.co.jp
www.nikkol.co.jp

Noveon (see Lubrizol)

92 | Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

Rhodia Inc.

Sasol Olefins & Surfactants

Westwood, NJ, USA

Tel: 1-201-666-9918
E-mail: barbara.pagliocca@us.sasol.com
www.sasol.com

Sederma SAS

Yvelines, France
Tel: 33-(0)-1-34-84-10-10
E-mail: olga.gracioso@sederma.fr
www.sederma.fr

Seppic

Fairfield, NJ, USA

Tel: 1-973-882-5597
E-mail: pcseppicinc@airliquide.com
www.seppic.com

Silab

Brive, France
Tel: 33-555-84-58-40
E-mail: silab@silab.fr
www.silab.fr

Stepan

Northfield, IL, USA

Tel:1-847-446-7500
www.stepan.com

Vol. 123, No. 1/January 2008