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ASTERISM: The phenomenon of a star created when light hits a stone with intersecting
needles or inclusions.
AURORA BOREALIS: An iridescent coating on glass beads which creates a multi-colored
effect.
AVENTURESCENCE: The phenomon of light reflecting from small, flat inclusions inside
of a gem, producing a glittery effect.
AVENTURINE: A typically green variety of quartz that displays aventurescence.
AZURITE: An opaque, dark blue stone that typically shows its botryoidal (or globular)
growth, resembling a bunch of grapes.
-BBAIL: A metal element that jewelers AGwhich connects a pendant to a necklace or
bracelet.
BAKELITE: A type of synthetic plastic invented by Belgian chemist Leo Baekeland in
1909. This moldable, lightweight plastic was popular in the 1930s.
BAGUETTE: A small rectangular shaped gemstone.
BANGLE: A fixed circular bracelet without a clasp, meant to be slipped over the hand.
BAROQUE PEARL: Any pearl that is not round. Baroque pearls adorn the top of
this mid-19th Century hair comb.
BELLE POQUE: French for Beautiful Time, this is another term for the Edwardian Era.
BERYL: A gem species, better known for its most famous varieties, aquamarine and
emerald.
BEZEL SETTING: A stone that is held in place by a thin strip of metal completely
surrounding its circumference.
BLOOD STONE: Opaque green variety of chalcedony that gets its name from its
distinctive red spots.
BONE: Opaque white to yellow colored animal bone, usually made into beads, bangles
and carvings.
BOULDER OPAL: A type of opal found in Australia that is cut to reveal part of the host
rock, or boulder.
BOOK CHAIN: A type of chain, most popular in the Victorian Era, in which the links are
folded in a way that resembles the pages of a book.
BOX CHAIN: A chain that is made of square, wide links that resemble boxes.
BOX CLASP: A clasp that consists of a box on one end of a bracelet/necklace with a vshaped tongue on the other.
BRASS: A metal composed of copper and zinc.
BRILLIANT CUT: A stone composed of triangular and kite-shaped facets radiating from
a central point.
BRIOLETTE: A tear-shaped bead that is faceted on all sides.
BRITANNIA SILVER: A silver alloy composed of 95.8% silver hallmarked with the figure
of Britannia. Britannia silver was mandatory in England from 1697 to 1720 to prevent the
melting down of sterling coins to create silver objects.
BRONZE: A metal composed of copper and tin.
BROOCH: Another term for a large pin, designed to be fastened to clothing. This brooch
is made of platinum, diamonds and sapphires.
BRUSHED FINISH: A surface that has been wiped with a metal brush, creating texture.
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THE 4CS: Criteria that is involved in the grading of diamonds. The 4Cs are Color, Clarity,
Carat and Cut.
CABOCHON: A gem polished with a rounded top and a flat bottom that is not faceted.
CALIBRATED: A stone cut to specific proportions, intended to go into an item with those
dimensions.
CAMEO: A relief carving on a shell or other naturally banded material such as onyx. The
bracelet pictured here is a typical example of a carved shell cameo.
CARAT: One of the 4Cs A unit used in measuring the weight of gems. A carat is 1/5th
of a gram. Not to be confused with karat, a unit used in measuring the purity of gold.
CARNELIAN: A variety of chalcedony known for its orangey red to brownish red hue.
CASTING: The process of melting metal and pouring it into a mold.
CELLULOID: A plastic made of cellulose, commonly used as an ivory substitute.
CHALCEDONY: A Cryptocrystalline quartz, best known for its famous varieties like
carnelian and onyx.
CHANNEL SETTING: Uniform sized stones set between 2 strips of metal. The stones are
not secured by prongs.
CHAROITE: An opaque purple stone with a swirled appearance.
CHATELAINE: A chain to be attached to a womans belt with functional ornaments
attached such as keys, coin pouches, sewing kits and other charms.
CHATOYANT: The phenomenon known as cats-eye that occurs when light reflects on
parallel inclusions in a stone.
CHOKER: A style of necklace that sits very close to the neckalmost like a collar.
CHRYSOCOLL: A variety of chalcedony that is typically translucent and blue to greenishblue in hue.
CHRYSOPHRASE: A variety of chalcedony that is typically translucent and green to
yellowish green in hue.
CITRINE: A variety of quartz which is yellow to orange in color. The two citrines in this
pin are set in a silver-topped gold setting very characteristic of the Victorian Era.
CITES: Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species and Wild Fauna and
Flora. An international agreement to ensure that trade in wild animal and plant products
do not threaten their existence. Any jewelry comprised of endangered animals or plants
purchased after 1973 must have a CITES permit.
CLARITY: One of the 4Cs, this is a term used to describe the amount of inclusions inside
a stone.
CLOISONN: An enamel technique in which a design is created with thin metal strips the
spaces filled in with enamel.
COCKTAIL RING: A term used to describe an oversized ring set with gemstones.
COLOR: One of the 4Cs, this is the amount or lack of color in a diamond.
COLOR CHANGE STONES: Gemstones that display different colors according to changes
in lighting.
CORAL: An organic material made of calcium carbonate that comes in a variety of colors,
but is best known for white, pink and red hues.
CORUNDUM: Gemstone species of good hardness and durability of which the red variety
is ruby and all other colors are sapphire.
COSTUME JEWELRY: Any jewelry not composed of a fine metal or gemstone.
GIRDLE: Narrow band located between the pavilion and crown of a gemstone.
GYPSY SETTING: A setting in which the metal is carved out and a stone is set into that
space, making the stone even with the surface of the metal.
GIRANDOLE: An 18th century design in which three dangling ornaments hang from a
larger stone or decorative center.
GOLD: A soft, precious metal known for its yellow color, and commonly described by its
purity.Although gold is yellow in its purest form, other popular colors are rose gold
and white gold.
GOLD-FILLED [G.F]: Base metal that has had at least .025mm of gold bonded to its
surface, making it more durable that Gold Plated metals.
GOLD PLATED: A metal with a thin (.001mm) layer of gold applied to its surface.
GOLD WASHED: A metal with a very thin (less than .175 microns thick) layer of gold
applied to its surface by either dipping or burnishing the metal.
GRADUATED: A strand of pearls or a necklace where the largest stone is in the center
and they decrease in size going towards the end.
GUARD BAND: A ring worn above another ring to prevent it from sliding.
-HHALLMARK: A symbol or number stamped into a metal to denote the fineness and the
manufacturers mark.
HAMMERED METAL: Metal with indentations created by a jewelers hammer. This
technique is used to add texture.
HAIR JEWELRY: Lockets holding the hair of loved ones, often braided or woven. These
were popular during the Victorian era.
HAUTE JOAILLERIE: Literally translates to high jewelry. Commonly used by the major
jewelry houses to refer to their most expensive collections.
HEAT TREATMENT: The process of heating a stone at a high temperature to enhance
the color or clarity. This is a common practice for stones like Sapphires and Aquamarines.
HEART CUT: A fancy cut stone in the shape of a heart.
-II: Abbreviation for Included from the diamond clarity grading scale. Included stones have
inclusions that are very easily seen by the naked eye.
IF: Abbreviation for Internally Flawless from the diamond clarity grading scale. An
Internally flawless diamond would have no inclusions under a loupe magnification.
INCLUSION: A foreign material trapped inside a gemstone as it is growing.
INFINITY RING: A ring showing the infinity pattern, which resembles a figure eight on
its side.
INLAY: A stone or piece of glass that is embedded into a metal, giving the item a flat
surface.
INTAGLIO:A gem that has been carved into creating a design.
IRIDESCENT: Rainbow-like colors commonly found in pearls and mother of pearl.
IVORY: A hard, white, opaque substance made up of teeth and tusks from animals such
as the elephant, hippopotamus and walrus. Synthetic substitutes for ivory have been
developed, and are also now used.
-JJADE: A semitransparent (most valuable) to opaque stone typically found in green, white
and violet, but available in a wide variety of colors. Technical term is jadeite
MOONSTONE: A member of the feldspar mineral family. This stone usually has a
shimmer, which is called adularescence, and is caused by the intergrowth of two different
types of feldspar.
MOUNTING: A piece of metal that holds a gem in place.
MOURNING JEWELRY: A type of jewelry that commemorates the dead or is worn when
one is mourning the loss of a loved one. This is most common in Victorian jewelry, as
Queen Victoria spent the majority of her life mourning her husband.
MOTHER OF PEARL: The iridescent coating on the inside of oyster shells.
-NNACRE: A typically whitish crystalline substance which oysters, mussels, snails, and
other mollusks secrete around a foreign object (like a tiny stone) that has made its way
into their shell. As layers of nacre coat the intruder, a pearl is formed over a period of
many years.
NAVETTE: Another name for a marquise cut gemstone.
NICKEL SILVER: An alloy consisting of mostly copper (roughly 60 percent),
approximately 20 percent nickel, 20 percent zinc, and sometimes up to 5 percent tin.
This alloy was invented around 1860 in Germany as a silver substitute.
NIELLO: An ancient technique in which an engraved design in metal is filled with
powdered niello alloy (a black/dark gray metal alloy composed of silver, copper, lead, and
sulphur). The alloy is melted and it fuses with the underlying metal. The object is then
polishedthe result is an enamel-like effect.
NOBLE METALS: Metals that are resistant to corrosion and oxidation, unlike most base
metals. The noble metals are gold, silver and the platinum group (platinum, iridium,
osmium, palladium, rhodium and ruthenium).
-OOILING: The process of applying mineral oil to a stone in order to enhance it and mask
inclusions. Emeralds are frequently oiled to mask their many inclusions.
OLD EUROPEAN CUT: The cut that predates the standard Round brilliant diamond.
This cut typically has a small table and a high crown.
OLD MINE CUT: Created in the seventeenth century, this cut was a predecessor of the
Old European cut and the Round Brilliant Cut. Old Mine Cut diamonds pre-date modern
advances in cutting, so are often less brilliant and can have poor symmetry.
OMEGA BACK: A type of earring back with a hinge that flips over a post to provide
additional security. These are also found in clip-on earrings.
ONYX: A variety of chalcedony that is very dark brown or black in color.
OPAL: A luminous stone that comes in a variety of colors. Opals are known for their
Play of Color, which is a term used to describe the flashes of color inside the stone.
OVAL CUT: A stone that is cut in a brilliant style, but in the shape of an oval.
OPERA LENGTH:A necklace that is 30-35 inches long.
-PPATINA: The change in color of an objects surface layer that results from aging.
Exposure to the air for an extended period of time oxidizes many metals, turning copper
and bronze green, and gold reddish.
PARURE: Personal adornment in French, means a matching set of jewelry, usually
containing a necklace, earrings, brooch and a bracelet.
PASTE JEWELRY: Glass that is cut and faceted to imitate gemstones.
PAV: A setting in which small stones are set close together using small beadlike metal
pieces to hold them in place.
PAVILION: The bottom portion of a cut stone, beginning at the girdle and and ending at
the pointed end.
PEAR SHAPE: A brilliant cut stone, but with one rounded end and one pointed end.
PENDANT: An ornamental piece of jewelry meant to be worn on a piece of cord or chain
as a necklace.
PERIOD JEWELRY:Any jewelry that exemplifies the style of a certain historic period.
Some of the more popular periods are Victorian (1837-1901), Art Nouveau (18901919), Edwardian (1901-1920) and Art Deco (1918-1938).
PETRIFIED WOOD: Is wood that has fossilizedall the original chemicals in the wood
have been replaced with minerals, making a stone-like replica of the original wood.
PHENOMENAL GEMSTONE: A gemstone exhibiting an optical phenomenon, such as
asterism, chatoyancy, play of color or color change.
PLATINUM: A very strong, dense precious metal with a white color. Platinum jewelry is
usually 90%-95% pure, is very sturdy, and holds stones well; to strengthen the metal
and increase the workability of the platinum, it is usually alloyed with 5 to 10 percent of
another platinum group metal (like ruthenium, palladium, or iridium) and/or cobalt.
Platinum is 60% heavier than gold.
PLIQUE JOUR: An enamel technique that is similar to stained glass. In plique jour,
the enamel work is translucent (light shows through it) since the backing of the enamel is
absent.
PRECIOUS METALS: Rare, naturally occurring metallic chemical elements that have a
high economic value. The most commonly used precious metals in jewelry are gold,
platinum and silver.
PRECIOUS STONES: Considered the most valuable group of stones. This group consists
of diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires.
PRINCESS CUT: A multi-faceted square brilliant cut.
PRINCESS LENGTH: A strand of pearls, or a layered necklace, which measures
approximately 18 inches.
PRONGS: Tiny metal claw that securely hold set stones.
-QQUARTZ: A crystalline mineral that come in many forms, including amethyst, citrine,
rock crystal, and rose quartz.
-RRADIANT CUT: A brilliant square cut stone with cut corners.
RENAISSANCE REVIVAL: A stylistic period circa the mid-1800s; The lack of availability
of pieces found in the artwork of the Renaissance era (1450-1600) led jewelers to this
trend of reproductions.
RETRO: A stylistic period in the 1940s that conforms to certain aesthetic guidelines.
Retro jewelry is typically made with large semi-precious stones set in rose gold with ruby
accents and consists of stylized curved lines.
RETICULATION: The process of creating a textured surface with ridges, ripples and
valleys.
RHINESTONE: Glass cut to resemble a gem with a foil backing to reflect the light.
Rhinestones are a staple of costume jewelry.
RHODIUM : A member of the platinum group of metals, rhodium is often used to give a
platinum-type finish and durability to silver or gold.
ROPE CHAIN: Two twisted metal chains are looped together to create a chain that
resembles a length of rope.
ROPE LENGTH: A strand of pearls, or a layered necklace, which measures approximately
40 inches.
ROSE CUT: A stone cut which features a flat base and raised triangular facets. This cut
has been in use since the 16th century.
ROSE GOLD: A gold alloy that is made by combining yellow gold with copper to achieve
a rosy pink hue.
ROUND BRILLIANT CUT: A round cut stone with typically 58 total facets. This is the
traditional cut for diamond solitaire pendants and rings.
RUBY: A variety of corundum that ranges in color from orangey red to purplish red, but
the dominant color must be red.
-SSI: Abbreviation for Slightly Included from the diamond clarity grading scale. Slightly
Included stones have inclusions visible to the naked eye.
SAPPHIRE: A variety of corundum that comes in a wide variety of colors, but the most
common color is blue.
SARDONYX: A variety of chalcedony that has parallel bands of sard or carnelian
alternating with black or white bands.
SATIN FINISH: A matte or dull finish to a metal, usually achieved by sanding or
brushing the jewelry.
SAUTOIR: A long necklace (longer than opera-length), often with an ornament at the
end.
SEED PEARL: A tiny, round pearl that is less than 2 mm in diameter and weighs under
1/4 grain.
SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES: Any stone that is not a diamond, ruby, sapphire or emerald.
SETTING: The part of a piece of jewelry that holds the stone.
SHANK: The portion of a ring that wraps around your finger, upon which the gemstones
are set.
SILVER: A soft white precious metal that is extremely ductile and malleable. Silver is
commonly used in jewelry, coins and tableware, and is one of the noble metals.
SNAKE CHAIN: Round, wavy metal links are lined up side by side to create a jewelry
chain that resembles a serpent.
SOLITAIRE: A single gemstone mounted in a simple setting.
SPINEL: A gemstone that comes in oranges, pinks, blues, lavenders, mauves and vivid
reds; often confused with ruby. The most famous spinel is set in the Crown Jewels of
Great Britain, and was mistaken for a ruby for centuries.
STEP CUT :This cut is composed of rectangular and trapezoidal shaped facets. The most
common step cut is an emerald cut.
STERLING SILVER: An alloy of 92.5% pure silver with other metals for strength and
rigidity. The remaining 7.5% of the alloy is usually comprised of copper or nickel. Sterling
silver jewelry is stamped .925 to indicate the purity of the metal. Sterling silver is
harder than pure silver, and has a lower melting point.
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