Dilawar Shaikh

Garment

manufacturing

is

an

assembly-

oriented

activity with a great range of raw materials, product

types,

production

volumes,

supply

chains,

retail

markets and associated technologies.

Companies

range

from

small

family

business

multinationals.
The clothing industry is labour intensive industry.

to

Departments in garment
manufacturing unit

Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-a
industry1.asp

 Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.

Checking patterns workability.
Preparation of different samples and getting the buyers approval.
Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing
samples, to QC.
Minimizing operations and consumption.

Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609

Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609

Functions of the fabric store department

Receive the fabric as per Buyers Requirements
Fabric inspection (four point system)
Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, colour fastness etc.)
Issue to the production department as per the requirement

 10% random inspection for sampling or

lining or net fabric.
Inspection for production order fabric as
per buyers requirement.
Perform GSM cutting.
Perform shrinkage test.
Check

the

fabric

for

the

bowing

or

skewing.
Check fabric roll for the defects.
Allocate points to the defects.

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Functions

of

the

trims

and

accessories

department
To receive incoming material.
To check material for attribute & variables.
To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.
To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production &
other material as per requirement.
To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing material.

Spreading and cutting flow process

Spreading and cutting flow process

Spreads

Planning

Markers
Production

Spreading

Manual
Machine
Manual

Cutting

Preparation
for sewing

Machine
Ticketing
Bundles

It translates customer orders into cutting orders

minimize total production costs
meet deadlines
seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space

 Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability

Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for
marker making
Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are
needed
Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric
utilization
Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment
and personnel
Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting

Cutting orders
leads to

Marker planning

Lay planning

Marker
is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific
style and the sizes to be cut from a single spread.

Marker making
is the process of determining the most efficient layout of

pattern

pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires

time, skill and concentration)

 Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.

By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric
consumption as low as possible.
It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper
attention. These include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns
paired, and attending to details such as drill holes and notches.
Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the
company may save or waste thousands of dollars a year.

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking,
Spreading, Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product
Development Approach, May 2005

Markers types:
Blocks or Sections

Blocked or sectioned markers contain

all of the pattern pieces for one style
in one or two sizes.

Continuous

Block or section
marker

Continuous markers contain all the

pattern pieces for all sizes included in
a single cutting.

Continuous marker

Markers types:
Open marker
Marker made with full pattern pieces.

Closed marker
Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the
tube (tubular knit).

Closed marker

Marker making

Manually produced

Computerized marker
making (CAD)

Manual marker

Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply

Tracing by pencil or tailors chalk.
Time consuming.

Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition,

omission of pcs.)
Accuracy depends on individuals skill.

Marker making
Computerised marker

Accurate

Shortest response time.

Direct or digitized.

Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no

omissions

Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the

computer.
Can be printed/recalled/modified.

Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric

requirement.

Marker mode : Nap/ One/ Way

The

Nap/

One/

Way

marker

(abbreviated

N/O/W) is made with every pattern placed with

the down direction of the pattern in the same
direction.
This mode is necessary for fabrics that are
asymmetric.
All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the
down direction, which is usually toward the
left edge (starting point where the legend is
written).
The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest
quality but least efficient of the three nap
directions for a marker.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking,
Spreading, Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product
Development Approach, May 2005

Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way

The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated
N/E/W) is made where there is no restriction
of which way the pattern are oriented.
The patterns may be oriented either down
or up, placed wherever they fit best, only
making sure that the patterns are on-grain.
The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the
most efficient mode yielding the highest
fabric utilization.

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking,
Spreading, Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product
Development Approach, May 2005

Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down

The

Nap/

Up/&

Down

marker

(abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient

than the Nap/ One/ Way marker, but not
as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way
marker.
In order to get a better fit between the
patterns, alternating sizes of patterns
are oriented in opposite directions.
This method is yields moderately good
fabric utilization, and good quality.

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking,
Spreading, Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product
Development Approach, May 2005

Marker Efficiency
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
It is determined for fabric utilization
Minimum waste

Factors affecting marker efficiency

Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat
etc.)
Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces less flexibility)
Grain requirements

 Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a

spreading table cutting table or specially designed surface in preparation
for the cutting process
Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker

Requirement of spreading

Spreading
equipment

Shade sorting of cloth pieces

Spreading surfaces ( table,

Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
pin table, vacuum table)
Alignment of plies
Correct ply tension
Elimination of fabric faults
Avoidance of distortion in the spread

Spreading machines

Spreading equipment
Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
Spreading machines

 In

manual

spreading,

fabric

is

drawn from its package which, if it

is a roll, may be supported by a
frame and carried along the table
where

the

end

is

secured

by

weights or by clamps.
The operators work back from the
end,

aligning

the

edges

and

ensuring that there is no tension

and that there are no wrinkles.

 Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric

from end to end of the spread, dispensing one
ply at a time on the spread.
Spreading machines may include:
A motor to drive
A platform on which the operator rides
A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold
the ends of ply in place
A ply counter
An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric
edge guides
A turntable
A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized
with the speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate
tension in the fabric being spread.

Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading
Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.
Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two
spreading operators (thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll)
walking along both sides of cutting table.
While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and
machine carries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the
fabric in the process.
Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to
come back to starting position without spreading the fabric. This return
movement of spreading machine is called as dead heading
Face one
way

Nap one
way

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face

spreading
The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine.
Difficult to achieve manually.
The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in
place by catcher, at layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held
by another catcher while the fabric is being laid by the machine
during its return movement also.

Face to
face

Nap
either
way

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading

Most time consuming method of spreading.
The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the
rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by
180 degree and return back to starting position without.
Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.

Face to
face

Nap one
way

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading
The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the
rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by
180 degree and start spreading the second layer from the opposite end
face one way. There is no dead heading by the machine in this
spreading mode.

Face one
way

Nap
either
way

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Spreading costs

Labour cost

Fabric waste

Splicing loss

End loss

Width loss

Cutting

Scissors

Portable cutting knives

Power system

Handle

Sharpening
Cutting blade
Blade guard
Up and down
movement
One way thrust as the
circular blade makes
contact with the fabric
Round knife

Base plate

Straight knife

Portable cutting knives

Straight knife

Round knife
Popular, light and fast.
Suitable only for cutting in
straight lines
or very gradual curves, in
depths of
about 15cm
Larger blade cuts up to 2" of
soft or
bulky material, or lower lays of
harder
material such as shirts
Small blade cuts single layer

Stationary cutters: Band knife

Contains a narrow, sharpened, endless

steel band
Fabric layers are guided by hand against
the blade
Air cushion is provided below the fabric
layers
Plies are stapled together to prevent
slippage
Used for precision cutting to a depth of up
to 300mm
Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions
are cut
precisely
Band knives are more accurate for small

Stationary cutters: Servo

Overhead servo motor
cutting
Adjustable speed
Suspension system that
supports the knife
perpendicular
to the cutting table
Knife is mounted on a

swivel arm
It combines vertical cutting
and
band knife cutting into one
machine

Cutting
Stationary cutters: Die cutting

Dies are pre shaped metal outlines

Most accurate
Die cutting operation involves
Placement of fabric
Positioning the die on the fabric

Engaging the machine to press the die

into the fabric

Used mainly for leather, coated and

laminated
materials
Areas where the same patterns are
used over
a long period, e.g. collar, pocket
flaps

Cutting
Stationary cutters: Plasma
Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature
cutting
ionized gas (argon)
Faster cutter of single plies
High engineering and cost issues
Problems same as for laser cutting
Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature
ionized gas (argon)
Faster cutter of single plies
High engineering and cost issues

Cutting
Stationary cutters: Water jet
Very high velocity, fine stream of water
cutting
High pressure jet acts as a solid tool, tears the fibers on impact
As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum
decreases and cutting
ability is reduced frayed edges
Wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting quality
Leather, plastic, vinyl
High equipment costs

Cutting
Position markers: Notchers
Notches can be cut by straight knife
too but
accuracy is required

Specialized

notching

equipment

provides
greater accuracy because a guide
lines up the
notcher with the cut edge
Hot notcher consists of a heating
element
(blade) that slightly scorches the
fibers adjacent
to the notch (thermoplastic fibers)
Two types of notches:

Cutting
Position markers: Drills and thread
Drill mount consists of motor, base plate with a
markers
hole and spirit
level
Used for reference markers needed away from the
edge of a
garment part, e.g. position of pockets, darts, etc.
A hole is drilled through the lay
Normally, drill is used cold, hole remains visible
until the sewing
Hypodermic
operator comes
to use
it drill leaves small deposit of paint on each
(or dye
spot)

weave hot drill is used which slightly

plyLoose
of fabric

scorches
fuse must eventually be concealed by the construction of the
ALL drillorholes
the edges of the hole
garment

Ticketing

Preparation for sewing

Tickets carry details : style no,

size,
ply no, bundle no., date
issued
Operations

may

be

incorporated for
payment purposes, control of
work
and facilitating quality control

Preparation for sewing

Bundling
Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a
controlled way
Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.
If ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling system is done

Bundle ticket consists of

Order no. 6015
Bundle no. 1430
Quantity 12
Style no. 3145
Size 12
Section collar

Production system: Make through system

It is the traditional method of manufacture in which an operator makes
right through
one garment at a time.

Source: ApparelKey.com

Production system: Conventional bundle

system
Sewing machines are arranged in lines.
The work flows from the central (store) area to the
first machine, from the first machine back to the
store, and then on to the next machine, and so forth.
A distributor stationed at the store is responsible for
receiving and dispatching the work.
The work in progress is in the form of bundles.
These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or a
bag, or the garment parts may be wrapped and tied.

Source: ApparelKey.com

Production system: Clump system

A worker collects a clump of materials from
the worktable and carries out the first
operation.
After he has completed his part of the
work, he returns it to the table.
A worker for the second operation then
continues the work and so on.
The process is ' collection - work -return'
continues until the whole garment has
been assembled.

Source: ApparelKey.com

Production

system:

Progressive

bundle system
Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
Each operator receives a bundle, does his work,
reties the bundle and passes it to the next
operator.
There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or
table for storing the inter-process work between
each operation.
The work is routed by means of tickets.
This system is the most widely used system in
the garment industry today. It is used in shirt
factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.

Source: ApparelKey.com

Production

system:

Flexible

flow

system
A section of sewing operators, each with a supply of
work in a rack at the side, work at an engineered
work place.
The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow
of work can be planned using the correct number of
operators in sequence.
For style A garments, the work distributed after
operation 1 can be distributed to the two operators
performing operation 2. On completion, the work
from both workers is then sent to operator 3. After
operation 3, the work is continued by the two
operators performing operation 4 and so on.
When a new style is to be loaded on to the system,
the number of operators needed for each operation
must be planned in detail to ensure a balanced
output.
Source: ApparelKey.com

Production

system:

Straight

line

system
The manufacturing process is broken down into
several operations, which take the same time to
complete.
Groups of operators are required to handle only
individual garments.
The garment parts pass from one operator to
the next, until the garment has been completely
made up by one group of operators.
The central distribution unit may be a fixed
table or a a conveyor belt (its speed will be set
to suit the cycle time).

Source: ApparelKey.com

Production system: Synchro flow

system
Garment parts of the same size and color
are processed separately.
Different garment parts can be processed
simultaneously for assembling.
At the same time, collars, sleeves, cuffs,
pockets, etc., from other lines also go down
a central line.
The

different

processed

garment

together

to

parts
form

garments.

Source: ApparelKey.com

are

then

completed

Production system: Unit production system

A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line.
It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move
individual units from work-station to work station for assembly.
All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line
together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead
conveyor.
Production operations are completed without removing the parts from the
carrier.
Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling,
tying and untying, and manually moving garment parts.
Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides payroll
and inventory data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and
performance data for prompt decision.
Source: ApparelKey.com

Production

system:

Modular

manufacturing system
Modular manufacturing groups operators
into teams, or modules.
The team works on one/a few garment at a
time instead of a bundle of garments.
The operators stand /sit at their stations
and rotate to different machines as they
work, becoming familiar with multiple steps
in producing the garment.

Thread-guides
Thumb-nut
screw

Stitch
regulator

Take-up lever
Tension
discs/checkspring
Needle
bar
Needle

Throat
plate

Reversing
lever

Needle guard
Presser foot

Machine
bed

Needle Bar

Needle

Throat plate

Needle Eye
Presser Foot

Feed Dog

Stitch forming
devices
Stitch

Device used

Lock stitch

Bobbin hook

Chain stitch

Looper

Over lock

Looper and spreader

The bobbin of a lock stitch

machine

Machine beds

Raised bed

Flat bed

Machine beds

Cylinder bed

Feed of arm

Machine beds

Post bed

 Garments are shaped and formed in three ways:

materials molded to a form,
fabric pieces cut to shape and assembled by bonding, and
pieces cut to shape and sewn.

For the purpose of standardization of stitch and seam formations, the U.S

government developed a guide that defines stitches and seams in current

use. The United States Federal Stitch and Seam Specifications (Federal
Standard 751a) were adopted in 1965.
The British Standard BS 3870: Schedule of Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings

was also developed about the same time.

The Federal Standard 751a have been replaced by ASTM D 6193, Standards

Related to Stitches and Seams.

ASTM D 6193 gives the following definitions:

A stitch is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a
specific repeated unit.
A seam is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.
A stitching consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for
ornamental purposes or finishing an edge or both.

Seams
The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of fabric together.
To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or
characteristics closely allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.
The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type
together with the correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and
end-product is of paramount importance.

Physical properties of
Strength: a seam must be
seam

strong. Strength is usually measured in two

directions: across the seam (lateral or transverse strength) and along the
seam (longitudinal strength).
Extensibility
Durability: A seam must be durable, long-lasting and not abrade or wear

easily during everyday use of the garment

Security: a seam needs to be secure and not unravel during everyday use of

the garment
Appearance properties: the ideal seam should join pieces of fabric in an

unobtrusive and efficient manner with no discontinuity in physical

properties or appearance.
Balance

Classification of seams
Superimposed

seam
Lap seam
Bound seam
Flat seam

Superimposed seam

Edge finishing
Bound seam

Lap seam

Edge finishing
Flat seam

Stitches
Stitch properties
Stitch size has three dimensions: length, width, and depth.
Stitch length is specified as the number of stitches per inch (spi) and can

be an indicator of quality. High spi means short stitches; low spi means
long stitches. Generally, the greater the spi, the more the holding power
and seam strength.
Stitch width refers to the horizontal span (bight) covered in the formation

of one stitch or single line of stitching. Stitches that have width

dimensions require multiple needles or lateral movement of thread
carriers such as the needle bars, loopers or spreaders.
Stitch depth is the distance between the upper and lower surface of the

stitch. It is a factor for blind stitches.

Stitch
Stitch classification is based on structure of the stitch and method of interlacing.
classification

Stitch
100 Class stitch: Single thread chain stitch
classification
Using one needle thread and one blind looper
Diagram

Stitch
class

Thread
count

Typical uses

101 Class

One thread

Basting, or light
construction

103 Class

One thread

Blind stitch for

hemming

104 Class

One thread

Blind stitch for

hemming

Stitch
200 Class stitch: Single thread hand sewn stitch
classification
Using one needle thread

Diagram

Stitch

Thread

class

count

202 Class

205 Class

One Thread

One Thread

Typical uses
Basting, tacking or
repairs
Pick stitch topstitching

Stitch
classification

300 Class stitch: Two or more thread lock stitch

Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread

Diagram

Stitch

Thread

class

count

301 Class

Two threads

Typical uses
Seaming multiple plies
Zig-zag stitch; a stretch

304 Class

Two thread

306 Class

Two thread

Blind stitch

315 Class

Two threads

Three step zig-zag

lockstitch

Stitch
classification

400 Class stitch: Multi-thread chain stitch

Using one or more needle threads and one or more looper threads
Diagram

Stitch class
401 Class

404 Class

406 Class

Thread count

Typical uses

Two threads

Seaming multiple
plies with
moderate stretch

Two threads

Topstitching or
seaming with
stretch

Three threads

"Bottom cover
stitch; a (greater)
stretch chain
stitch

Stitch
classification

500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch

Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)

Diagram

Stitch
class

Thread
count

Typical uses

501 Class

One thread

One needle over edge

stitch for serging /
blanket stitch"

502 Class

Two thread

One needle over edge

stitch for serging

503 Class

Two thread

Over edge stitch for

serging with crossover on
edge of fabric

504 Class

Three thread

Over edge stitch for

serging and light seaming

Stitch
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
classification
Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)
Diagram

Stitch
class

Thread
count

Typical uses

512
Class

Four
Thread

Mock safety stitch for seaming

with wide bite and greater
stretch for knits

514
Class

Four
Thread

Over edge stitch for seaming

with wide bite and greater
stretch for knits

515
Class

Four
Thread

True safety stitch for seaming

with good stretch for wovens
and knits

516
Class

Five
Thread

True safety stitch for seaming

with good stretch for wovens
and knits

Stitch

classification

600 Class Stitch: Multi-thread cover stitches

Diagram

Stitch class

Thread
count

Typical uses

602 Class

Four thread

Cover stitch or
seaming knits

605 Class

Five thread

Cover stitch

607 Class

Six thread

Wide cover
stitch

Responsibilities of quality department

To impart quality in the product.
To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
To restrict the defects entering into the final product.
Main function of quality department is to carry out inspection.
Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw

materials, partially finished components of the garments and completely

finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or
requirements, as well as measuring the garments to check if they meet
the required measurements.

Principle of inspection (inspection loop)

How much to inspect ?

No inspection

100% inspection
Spot checking- inspecting random shipments
Arbitrary sampling-10% sampling
Statistical sampling or acceptance sampling-flexibility with regard to
the amount of inspection to be performed

Inspection terms

Sample: A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a

lot or batch, the units of the sample being selected at random without
regards to their quality. The number of units of a product in the sample is
the sample size.
Lot or batch: Means Inspection lot or Inspection Batch, that is a
collection of units of a product from which a sample is to be drawn and
inspected.
Lot or batch size: The lot or batch size is the number of units of a product
in a lot or batch
Percent defective = Number of defectives

100

Number of units inspected

Identification of defects
Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would
cause the item to be second.
Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as
a second either because of severity or location.
Second: A Second is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects
the saleability or serviceability of the item.

Spreading defects
Possible Pattern Defects:

Pattern parts missing

Skimpy marking

Mixed parts

Generous marking

Patterns not facing in the correct

Marker too wide

direction on napped fabrics

Not enough knife clearance

Patterns not all facing in the same

direction on a one-way fabric

Patterns not aligned with respect

to the fabric grain

freedom

Line definition poor

Mismatched

checks

and

stripes

Notches

and

omitted,
misplaced

drill

marks

indistinct,

or

Cutting defects
Frayed edges

Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges

Ply-to-ply fusion
Single-edge fusion
Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut
Notches
Drills

Sewing defects
Needle Damage

Pleated seams

Feed Damage

Wrong stitch density

Skipped stitches

Uneven stitch density

Thread breaks

Staggered stitch

Broken stitches

Improperly formed stitches

Seam grin

Oil spots or stains

Seam pucker

Seaming defects
Incorrect or uneven width of inlay
Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line
Insecure back stitching
Twisted seam
Mismatched checks or stripes
Mismatched seam
Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated piece showing through
the seam
Reversed garment part
Blind stitching showing on the face side
Wrong seam or stitch type used
Wrong shade of thread used

Assembly defects
Finished components nor correct to size or shape or not symmetrical.
Finished garment not to size
Parts, components, closures or features omitted
Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned
Interlining incorrectly positioned
Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment, twisted,
Garment parts cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness
Garment parts shaded
Parts in one-way fabrics in wrong direction
Mismatched trimming

Checks for final inspection

Open seams

Snaps, fasteners, buttons

Skipped stitches

Labels

Cracked stitches

Elastic

Stitches/inch

Measurements

Uneven seams

Mends or repairs

Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated

Stripe

seams

Hems

Needle and feed cuts

Trim

Unclipped threads and Long ends

Broken needle

Raw edge

Distortion

AQL: Accepted quality level

The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of
sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process
average.
The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer
indicates will be accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling
procedures to be used.

AQL: Accepted quality level

Sample size code letters
Lot or Batch Size

Sample size code letter

to

to

15

16

to

25

26

to

50

51

to

90

91

to

150

151

to

280

281

to

500

501

to

1200

1201

to

3200

3201

to

10000

10001

to

35000

AQL: Accepted quality level

Sampling Plans
Sample Size
Code
Letter

Sample
Size

Acceptable Quality Level

2.5

6.5

Ac

Re

Ac

Re

Ac

10

Re

Ac

Re

13

20

32

50

10

11

80

10

11

14

15

125

10

11

14

15

21

22

200

10

11

14

15

21

22

21

22

315

14

15

21

22

21

22

21

22

 Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets

its final look.
In this department each garment undergoes different finishing
processes.
It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets
the garment free from defects.
Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.

Operations performed at
Thread cutting:
finishing
stage Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and
packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose
and uncut threads.
Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains:
Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink,
rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains

Seam ironing:

Ironing

of garments using steam ironing tables with

vacuum boards.
Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing
equipments.

Operations performed at
Tagging and
packing: The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and
finishing
stage
packing section. It is the responsibility of the packing supervisors to
provide the tagging operators with the appropriate price and brand
tags. He also instructs the tagging operator as to where and how the
tag has to be placed. The most important thing to be kept in mind
while placing the tag is to match the size mentioned on the main label
and the size on tag. The step after the tagging is to pack the garments
as per the specification of the buyer.

Operations performed at
finishing
stage
Presentation
checking and cartoon packing
It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation.
Checkers check the packed garments for the following things:
Poly bags are as per specification.
Tags and price stickers are as per specification.
Packing is secured or not if specified.
Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.
Hangers are there or not if specified.
Garment has been folded as per specification etc.

Operations performed at
finishing
stage
Presentation
checking and cartoon packing
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The
following things are kept in mind during carton packing:

Number of garments to be packed in one carton.

Ratio asked for example S:M:L=2:1:1

Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified.

Closing the cartons with cello tape.

Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.

Writing on carton information like: Store or buyer name, buyer's

address, ratio, net
weight of the carton etc.