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ANCIENT EGYPT

3100 BC 30 AD

Melissa Wilm
Module 1

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN DRESS

Deshret- A red crown


or headpiece worn by
pharaohs of lower
Egypt.

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Funerary Guardian Figure


Schenti- A linen, knee-length


white skirt. For kings such as the
one portrayed here, the schenti
would have been woven with
gold bers. Looking closely, one
can see pleating in this example.

Date: 1919 1878 B.C.


Details: Figure made of cedar, plaster and paint. Likely
part of a funeral ceremony.

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN DRESS

Eye of Horus A decorative


motif that symbolized the moon.
On this con, the set of eyes
look act as the eyes into the
living world. The face of the
mummy was place next to this
panel.
Kalasiris An ankle-length sheath
dress that ended below the bust. A
kalasiris had one or two wide straps
sometimes placed asymmetrically.
SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art
Artist: Unknown
Title: Con of Khnumnakht

Date: 1802-1640 B.C.


Details: Painted wood con decorated with
hieroglyphs (the Egyptian form of writing) reciting
words to deities of death and rebirth.

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN DRESS


Uraeus A form of the sacred
cobra that symbolizes Upper
Egypt.
Hedjet White crown for a
pharaoh ruling Upper Egypt

Beard A symbol for maturity


and authority worn by male
kings and Queen Hatshepsut.
Collar A necklace made from
rounds of precious or semi-
precious stones.
Corselet Sleeveless upper
body wrap with an
asymmetrical shoulder strap.
SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art
Artist: Unknown
Title: Block from the Sanctuary in the Temple of
Mentuhotep II at Deir el-Bahri

Date: 2010 2000 B.C.


Details: Painted limestone block from King
Mentuhotep IIs mortuary temple.

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN DRESS


Wig A hairpiece made of
wool or human hair.
Sometimes wigs would be
decorated or beaded. This
specic example is a style
called the Nubian wig: a style
of layered curls only worn by
adults.

Kohl A mixture of galena,


sulfur and animal fat used as
eyeliner. It served to shield eyes
from the sun and was a symbol
for the Eye of Horus.

SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Canopic Jar with a Lid in the Shape of a Royal
Womans Head

Date: 1352 1336 B.C.


Details: Portrayal of an unidentied royal woman.

MODERN EGYPTIAN DRESS


V-Necked Kalasiris A kalasiris is a
sheath dress that began under the bust
and extended to the oor. It could have
one or two straps. This modern example
has two straps that mirror the v-necked
styles also present in Ancient Egypt.

Elements of gold and metallic


Gold was a common and
treasured metal used in
Ancient Egypt.

Heik A belt wrapped and tied


around the body

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Jill Stuart
Collection: Spring 20013 Ready-to-wear

MODERN EGYPTIAN DRESS


Cone The models
hairstyle emulates the
shape of the scented wax
cones ancient Egyptians
wore on top of their wigs
for special occasions. As
the event unfolded, the
wax would slowly melt
over the head to
distribute its perfume.

Collar The shape of the


beaded collar on this
dress resembles the
collars of Ancient Egypt
made of gold and/or
semiprecious stones.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Sophia Kokosalaki
Collection: Spring 2009 Ready-to-wear

MODERN EGYPTIAN DRESS


Collar Another
example of the gold
Egyptian-like collars.

Heik This belt is very


similar to the heiks (tied
waist belts) that were
often in gold and worn
by Egyptians.
Schenti A schenti-like
skirt with its knee lenth,
pleating and diaphanous
(translucent) material
similar to the linen used
in Ancient Egyptian wear.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Sophia Kokosalaki
Collection: Spring 2009 Ready-to-wear

MODERN EGYPTIAN DRESS

Jewelry- This ensemble characterizes the


uncut earthenware beads used in Egyptian
jewelry. In particular, it shows a nal
example of an Egyptian-inspired collar as
well as an arm band or bracelet.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Andrew Gn
Collection: Spring 2009 Ready-to-wear

MODERN EGYPTIAN TRENDS


Leopard Prints

In Ancient Egypt, leopard skins


were worn by kings and priests.
Later on, cloth was painted to
appear like leopard skin. Both
garments symbolized the
ancient Egyptian belief that
wearing an animal skin allowed
the power of that animal to
enter the king or priest wearing
that garment.

Today, animal prints appear on
the runways, like in this Dolce
and Gabbana collection.
SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Dolce and Gabbana
Collection: Fall 2007 Read-to-Wear



SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Priest in a leopard skin cloak with an inscription
and Osiris on his skirt
Date: 712 664 B.C.

MODERN EGYPTIAN TRENDS


Eyeliner

In Ancient Egypt, men and


women lined the edges of their
eyes with kohl liners made of
galena, sulphur and animal fat.
It served as a symbol of the Eye
of Horus and also reduced glare
from the bright sun.

Today, many women use
eyeliner in their makeup
repertoires with styles such as
the cat-eye or double-line
shown here.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Joseph Altuzarra
Collection: Fall 2012 Read-to-Wear


SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Khonsus Funerary Mask
Date: 1279 1213 B.C.

KING TUTANKHAMUN
Basic Information
1341 B.C. 1323 B.C.
12th king of the 18th Egyptian Dynasty from
1361 B.C. to 1352 B.C.
His name means the living image of Aten
In 1922, archaeologists Howard Carter and
George Herbert discovered King Tuts burial
tomb in the Valley of the Kings where they
found the artifacts inside untouched.

Inuence on Fashion:
The discovery of King Tut inuenced the Art
Deco period of the 1920s aecting fashion
and architecture.
Gold sequins were found sewn into King
Tuts clothing showing that sequins existed
long before modern times!

CLEOPATRA
Basic Information
Full name: Cleopatra VII Thea Philopator
Born in 69 B.C.
Died 30 B.C.
Her family had ruled Egypt for over 100 years before she
was born.
Cleopatra became the queen of Egypt at age 18.
She initially shared the throne with her husband,
Ptolemy XIII, but she put together an army and used the
help of Julius Caesar to take the role of pharaoh for
herself.

Inuence on Fashion:
With inuence from Roman sources, like romantic
interests Julius Caesar and Marc Antony, Cleopatra
mixed Egyptian and Roman fashion.
She is known for wearing heavy black kohl eyeliner and
eyeshadow a style that still inuences modern makeup
trends.
Modern lm interpretations of Cleopatra have portrayed
an ornate and elaborate Egyptian style with metallics and
jewels that continues to inspire fashion designers.

SOURCES

http://www.biography.com/people/king-tut-9512446?page=1
http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/threaded/2012/12/a-history-of-
sequins-from-king-tut-to-the-king-of-pop/
http://style.time.com/2013/06/12/50-years-later-how-cleopatra-
continues-to-inuence-fashion-today/
http://www.biography.com/people/cleopatra-vii-9250984?page=2

ANCIENT GREECE
650-300 B.C.
Module 2
Melissa Wilm


ANCIENT GREEK DRESS

Laurel Wreath- At Ancient Greek


weddings, brides and grooms wore laurel
wreaths as a religious symbol for their
wedding as mortals. A gold laurel wreath
such as this one was not meant for
wedding wear, but was probably an
oering given to gods or given at funerals.

SOURCE: The J. Paul Getty Museum


Artist: Unknown
Title: Gold Wreath

Date: 300-100 B.C.


Details: A gold headpiece fastened by a hook and eye
in the front.


ANCIENT GREEK DRESS

Exomis- The man portrayed in this statue


wears an exomis which was a type of
chiton (tunic) characterized by its short
length and single shoulder. A real exomis
was likely made of wool and worn by
working men and slaves.

SOURCE: British Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: None

Date: 4th century B.C.


Details: A bronze gure of Hephaistos, a god of re
and metal.


ANCIENT GREEK DRESS
Himation On top of the
chiton, the woman wears
this outer length of
rectangular fabric across
her shoulders.

Chiton This woman


wears a oor-length
chiton or tunic that
could be made of wool or
linen. Made of a single
rectangle of fabric, it
would be pinned at the
shoulders and belted.

SOURCE: British Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: None

Date: 300 B.C.


Details: Terracotta gure of a woman


ANCIENT GREEK DRESS
Himation
Another
example of the
shawl-like
garment. This
one hangs from
the shoulder
with the excess
carried in the
womans left
arm.

SOURCE: British Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: None

Doric Chiton A
oor-length
garment made
of a rectangular
length of wool
draped around
the body and
pinned at the
shoulders. It is
belted at the
waist.

Date: 4th century B.C.


Details: A bronze gure of Hephaistos, a god of re
and metal.


MODERN GREEK DRESS

Doric peplos This dress


resembles the doric
peplos with the layer of
fabric that overhangs the
bust and the draping
throughout.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Badgley Mischka
Collection: Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear


MODERN GREEK DRESS

Ionic chiton The inner layer of this dress


that reaches to the oor looks like the
under tunic of the ionic chiton. The outer
layer shows the one-shouldered length of
fabric pinned at the shoulder.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: St. John
Collection: Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear


MODERN GREEK DRESS

Chlamys The small lace


cape on this ensemble looks
like the ancient Greek
chlamys pinned to one
shoulder.

Fibulae Here, a decorative


piece of jewelry holds the
chlamys together, much like
the jeweled pins or bulae of
Greece.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: LWren Scott
Collection: Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear


MODERN GREEK DRESS

Greaves the metallic pieces that cover


the shin on these heels emulate greaves
shaped lower-leg protectors made of metal
or leather (worn with military costume).

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Elie Tahari
Collection: Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear


MODERN GREEK TRENDS

Fillet

Both men and women wore


llets in their in Ancient
Greece. A llet was a headband
that covered part of the
forehead. For women, it could
hold a hairstyle such as a bun
in place.

Today, llets are common in
both everyday and formal
wear. Here, the models of
Giambatista Vallis couture
show sport the bands.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Giambattista Valli
Collection: Fall 2011 Couture


SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Statuette of the Diadoumenos
Date: 430 B.C.


MODERN GREEK TRENDS

Phrygian Cap / Beanie

In Ancient Greece, many men wore


the phrygian cap. This brimless hat
was made of a soft fabric and had a
tall, slightly narrow top that folded
forward.

Both men and women of today sport
a modern form of the phrygian cap:
the beanie. Typically worn in winter,
this knit hat has the same tall style as
its Greek counterpart and the same
brimless edge.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Burberry Prorsum
Collection: Fall 2008 Ready-To-Wear


SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: The Metope Painter
Title: Loutrophoros
Date: 4th century B.C.


ALEXANDER THE GREAT
Basic Information
Born in 356 B.C.
Died in 323 B.C.
As a child, he was tutored by Aristotle who used a
version of Homers Illiad to inspire Alexanders
military aspirations.
After his fathers death, Alexander gathered an army
to seize the title of king. He became the king of
Macedonia.
He used military power to unite the Greek city-
states and to conquer Egypt (where he established
the city of Alexandria) and the Persian Empire.

Inuence on Fashion:
Alexanders portraits always show him clean-shaven
even though all Greek statesmen before him were
shown with facial hair. For nearly 500 years
following the rule of Alexander, the vast majority of
Greek kings and Roman leaders had clean-shaven
depictions.
The diadem of royalty rst appeared on Alexander.


SOPHOCLES
Basic Information
Born in 496 B.C
Died in 406 B.C.
Sophocles was a playwright, but also had
involvement in Athenian political and military
issues.
He is especially known for his skill in writing
Greek tragedies.

Inuence on Fashion:
Sophocles inuenced fashion through theater.
While he introduced the third actor with a a
speaking role in plays and also increased the
number of of chorus members, he additionally
improved the costumes and scenery of his
works. With theater being an essential aspect of
Greek social life, Sophocles changed the
costume spectators saw on stage and promoted
an environment in which spectators wore and
saw the current fashions.


SOURCES

http://www.biography.com/people/alexander-the-great-9180468?page=3
http://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_objects/gr/m/
portrait_alexander_the_great.aspx
http://www.notablebiographies.com/Sc-St/Sophocles.html#b
http://www.classics.upenn.edu/myth/php/tragedy/index.php?page=sophocles

ANCIENT ROME
500 B.C. 400 A.D
Module 2
Melissa Wilm


ANCIENT ROMAN DRESS
Diadem - a headpiece that was often gold
and could contain jewels.

Hairstyle: The hairstyle seen here is an


example of a common Roman style with
characteristic curls.

SOURCE: British Museum


Artist: Unknown
Title: None


Date: 41 B.C.
Details: A gold coin that features a representation of
Fortuna.


ANCIENT ROMAN DRESS
Fibulae A decorative pin
used to fasten the saguum.

Saguum A cloak worn for


members of the military
like the man portrayed.

Tunic The Roman tunic


was knee length, although
shorter for members of the
military, and had short
sleeves.

SOURCE: The J. Paul Getty Museum


Artist: Unknown
Title: Bust of Emperor Commodus


Date: 180 A.D. 185 A.D.


Details: Portrait of Roman emperor known for his
love for combat.


ANCIENT ROMAN DRESS

Under tunic- the ankle-length garment


worn underneath. It had elbow-length
sleeves. The small pins clipping the sides
of the sleeves together can be seen on this
statue.

Stola An outer dress worn by free and


married women. Its possible the stola had
strap-like sleeves.

SOURCE: British Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: None


Date: 120-150 A.D..


Details: A marble Greek representation of the the
Egyptian goddess Isis.


ANCIENT ROMAN DRESS
Tunic A simple knee-length
tunic

Solea (Also called calceus,


carbatina or caliga) Sandals
made of leather in the shape
of the foot. These have leather
straps on the foot and bands
that wrap around the ankles.

SOURCE: British Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: None


Date: 2nd century


Details: A marble portrayal of Edymion a
mythological gure.


MODERN ROMAN DRESS

Tunic This dress is a classic example of


the basic, t-shaped garment worn in
Ancient Rome. This one is oor-length
(like the tunic for Roman women).
However for men, the garment could be
knee-length.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Valentino
Collection: Fall 2011 Couture


MODERN ROMAN DRESS
Under tunic The white,
short-sleeve dress resembles a
basic under tunic. However,
an ancient Roman tunic was
always ankle-length for
women while this one hits
mid-thigh.

Toga While togas were, for


the most part, menswear in
ancient Rome, the sheer black
garment on this piece
represents the one-shoulder,
draped look of a toga. The
Roman toga would have been
worn over the left shoulder.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Alberta Ferretti
Collection: Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear


MODERN ROMAN DRESS
Under tunic The sheer layer
looks like a Greek womans
under tunic.

Stola The simple outer layer


with sleeves with the cinched
waist resembles a Roman stola
(a womans outer tunic with
thin sleeves or straps).

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Vera Wang
Collection: Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear


MODERN ROMAN DRESS
Fillet This model wears a
headband like the llets of of
ancient Roman times.

Toga Another example of a


toga-like garment that hangs
from one shoulder.

Solea (Caclceus, carbatina,


caliga) These strappy gold
sandals parallel the thin
leather straps of ancient
Roman sandals.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: As Four
Collection: Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear


MODERN ROMAN TREND
Diadems

In ancient Rome, women wore


elaborate hairstyles with
hairpieces such as llets, coronets
and diadems. Diadems much
like crowns were often gold
and decorated with gems. They
combined the Roman womans
love for sparkling jewelry and
intricate hair arrangements.

While a Roman woman wore
diadems as part of her daily dress,
the modern woman typically
reserves such fancy headpieces
for formal occasions such as a
wedding. Here you can see
jeweled diadems at a Lanvin
show.
SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Lanvin
Collection: Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear


SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Pediment-Shaped Gold Diadem
Date: 330 -300 B.C.


MODERN ROMAN TREND
One-Shoulder Toga

Men of ancient Rome wore the


toga a draped length of fabric
hanging from the left shoulder.

Today, womens clothing gains
inspiration from the one-
shouldered toga, with draped
dresses that hang from either
shoulder.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Jenny Packham
Collection: Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear


SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Statue of a Togatus
Date: 14-9 B.C.


JULIUS CAESAR
Basic Information:
Born July 13th, 100 B.C.
Died March 15, 44 B.C,
Named dictator for life of Rome.
Ultimately assassinated by other members of the
Roman senate who did not want Caesar to bring
monarchial power to Rome.
Inuence on Fashion

While there is no direct evidence on Caesars
inuence on fashion, it can be hypothesized that his
famous role in history has kept images of his Roman
toga in the minds of fashion designers and consumers
alike, oering inspiration for fashion centuries later.
His connections with Egypt during his lifetime also
likely transferred Egyptian and Roman fashions
between the two territories.


CAESAR AUGUSTUS
Basic Information:
Born: September 23rd, 63 B.C.
Died: August 19th, 14 A.D.
Originally named Gaius Octavius.
After the death of Julius Caesar, Augustus found
out he was the heir to the Roman throne.
After ghting for the throne against Cleopatra
VII and Marc Antony, August won the battle and
became emperor.
Augustus transformed the already-thriving Rome
into a rich and powerful city. He promoted
literature and the arts, rebuilt temples, and
reinstated many public ceremonies
Inuence on Fashion
Augustus required all citizens wear the toga in
the forum. He did this in order to reestablish
ancient Roman customs.


SOURCES

http://www.history.co.uk/biographies/julius-caesar.html
http://www.biography.com/people/julius-caesar-9192504
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/augs/hd_augs.htm
http://www.biography.com/people/caesar-augustus-39561
http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/
130007579

BYZANTIUM
300 A.D. 1450 A.D.
Module 3
Melissa Wilm


BYZANTINE DRESS
This reversible pendant
embodies the fashion ideals of
the Byzantine Empire. First,
ornate jewelry itself was an
essential element to all types
of dress, with gold being the
predominant metal used.
Second, this piece is nearly
symmetrical in shape
symmetry was another
element of Byzantine jewelry.
Lastly, the pendant has
ecclesiastical elements, or
elements relating to the
church, with portraits of the
Virgin Mary and Jesus.

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Double-Sided Pendant Icon with the Virgin
and Christ Pantokrator

Date: 1100 A.D.


Details: Gold and enamel reversible pendant.


BYZANTINE DRESS
Dalmatic An outer tunic
with long and wide sleeves.
This example is decorated
with segmentae, or small
rounds of decoration, on the
shoulder and head.

Under tunic the Virgin


wears the tight, long sleeves of
a contrasting tunic
underneath the dalmatic.

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Berlinghiero
Title: Madonna and Child


Date: 1230s A.D.


Details: A painting of the Virgin Mary and the baby
Jesus.


BYZANTINE DRESS
Headpiece The man appears
to be wearing a decorated
diadem surrounding a turban-
like hat that is characteristic
of the period.

Chlamys - The Byzantine


chlamys is an ankle-length
cape worn over a tunic.

Brooch A piece of decorative


jewelry used to fasten a
chlamys to the shoulder.

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: None


Date: 602-610 A.D.


Details: A bronze bust of an emperor.


BYZANTINE DRESS

Ecclesiastical vestments
Clothing worn by those of the
church, such as a priest.

Dalmatic A version of a male


dalmatic tunic with long, wide
sleeves.

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: None


Lorum A narrow and long


length of fabric that wraps
around the shoulders and
hangs down the center front
of a tunic. It was often
embellished, as seen in this
example

Date: 602-610 A.D.


Details: A bronze bust of an emperor.


BYZANTINE DRESS
Diadem A jeweled
crown or tiara.

Jeweled collar A
round necklace worn
over a tunic that was
ornately decorated
with jewels/

Cloak A typical cloak


attached at the
shoulder.

Outer tunic Long-


sleeved, knee-length
tunic belted at the waist.

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Fragment of a Floor Mosaic with a
Personication of Ktisis

Palla The draped


length of rectangular
fabric worn over the
shoulders. Secured
with a jeweled bulae
or pin

Date: 500-55 0 A.D.


Details: A bronze bust of an emperor.


MODERN BYZANTINE DRESS

Diadems/Crowns Emperors
wore crowns decorated with
jewels and hanging strings of
pearls. This modern headpiece
has a similar design with
strings of clear pearls hung
all around.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Christian Dior
Collection: Spring 2006 Couture

Da
dal
slee


MODERN BYZANTINE DRESS

Metallic collar - Many collars


of the Byzantine era were
decorated at the neck with
collar necklaces. These were
encrusted with jewels or other
elements, like the gold sequin
neckline seen here.

Silk brocade The


embellished fabric of this
dress looks like silk brocade
which is a fabric woven in a
certain way to create a special
design. Byzantine clothing
gained patterning like this
with the increase of Oriental
inuence.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Andrew Gn
Collection: Spring 2009 Read-to-Wear


MODERN BYZANTINE DRESS
Crown Similar to the crowns
of emperors.

Ecclesiastical elements the


cross earrings point to the
religious or ecclesiastical
motifs of Byzantine fashion.

Mosaics The pattern of


sequins imitate the small tiles
or glace pieces used in
mosaics. In mosaics, these
small elements were placed
together to form a cohesive
picture.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Dolce and Gabbana
Collection: Fall 2013 Couture


MODERN BYZANTINE DRESS
Paludamentum- A long cloak
or cape worn only by wealthy
men or the empress.
Brooch- This decorative gold
brooch is similar to the gold
brooches of the Byzantine era
used to fasten paludamentum.
However, these fasteners were
often on the right shoulder,
not the middle of the chest.
Tunic- A Byzantine tunic had
the long length and tted
sleeves and tailoredsilhouette
like the dress shown here.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Giambattista Vallie
Collection: Fall 2011 Couture


MODERN BYZANTINE TRENDS

Ecclesiastical Elements

Byzantine clothing included motifs of the
church like crosses and images of the
Virgin Mary and Jesus.

In modern times, style continues to include
crosses, Christian imagery, and stained
glass window designs like those seen at the
Jean Paul Gaultier show in 2007.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Jean Paul Gaultier
Collection: Spring 2007 Couture


SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Cross with pearls
Date: 13th 14th century


MODERN BYZANTINE TRENDS
Jeweled Collars

Byzantine women enjoyed wearing
large, ornate pieces of jewelry. Many
wore embellished jeweled collars over
their tunics.

Today, some womens clothing imitates
these jeweled collars with semicircular
bands of sparkling embellishment, like
in these Giulietta designs.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Giulietta
Collection: Pre-Fall 2013


SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Saint Agnes
Date: 13th 14th century


EMPRESS THEODORA
Basic Information:
Born in 497 A.D.
Died on June 28th, 548 A.D.
She was wife to the emperor of Constantinople,
Justinian I.
She had great political inuence. Her husband
took her advice into great consideration when
ruling Constantinople. As a result, Theodora
expanded rights for women of the time.
Inuence on Fashion

Artifacts depicting Theodora show the opulent
fashion characteristic of wealthy Byzantine fashion
that inspires many fashion designers today. Her
female power no doubt also plays a role in modern
womens fashion by female consumers who wish to
exude that same condence strength.


JUSTINIAN
Basic Information:
Born in 483 A.D.
Died in 565 A.D.
He was born a slave, but the high position of his
uncle allowed him to move to Constantinople and
obtain and education.
He was the emperor of the Byzantine empire for
over 38 years and greatly expanded the empire
during his reign.
Inuence on Fashion
Justinian rebuilt many religious buildings that had
been destroyed due to political conicts during his
reign. This would have given him great inuence
on the style of architecture for the period. For
example, the reconstructed Hagia Sphia includes
mosaics, marble, columns and wall paneling.
He was also an art patron. During his reign, many
painted wood panels of icons were produced that
still exist today.


SOURCES

http://www.biography.com/people/theodora-9505048
http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/590611/Theodora
http://biography.edigg.com/Justinian_The_Great.shtml
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/just/hd_just.htm#thumbnails

EARLY MEDIEVAL
1100 A.D. 1299 A.D.
Module 3
Melissa Wilm


EARLY MEDIEVAL DRESS
Veil This woman wears a
white veil made of linen to
cover her hair. This indicates
she was married.

Tunic A womans tunic of


the Early Middle Ages was
oor-length with tted
sleeves, as seen by the tight t
at the wrists in this example

Open mantle a long cape or


cloak attached at the
shoulders.

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artists: Dominican Nuns
Title: Initial R with the Annunciation


Date: 1300 A.D.


Details: A work of tempera paint on parchment
depicting the Angel Gabriel (left) and the Virgin
Mary.


EARLY MEDIEVAL DRESS

Herigaut A long outer piece


of clothing. It had a slit
beneath each shoulder for the
arms to move freely.

Under tunic/Cote Basic


mens under garment with
long length and tted sleeves.

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: The Virgin from a Pentecost Scene and the
Figure of St. Martin

Date: 1245 A.D. 1248 A.D.


Details: Stained glass window depicting the Virgin
Mary (right) and St. Martin (left).


EARLY MEDIEVAL DRESS
Under tunic/Cote Basic
mens under garment with
long length and tted sleeves.

Surcote A mans outer


tunic . This example is
sleeveless, but surcotes could
also have three-quarter to full-
length sleeves.

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Relief of the Betrayal and Arrest of Jesus


Date: 1264 A.D. 1288 A.D..


Details: Limestone depiction of the nal event in
Jesuss life.


EARLY MEDIEVAL DRESS
Under tunic /cote This
example of a mans tunic
shows not only tapered
sleeves, but sleeves gathered
at the wrists because the
fabric extends beyond the arm
and hands. This style was
common in the Early
Medieval period.

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: Theodosius Arrives at Ephesus


Date: 1200 A.D. 1205 A.D.


Details: Stained glass window


MODERN MEDIEVAL DRESS

Garnache The slits for


sleeves in this outt are the
same style as a Medieval
garnache that was an article of
outerwear. It was similar to an
ankle-length cloak or poncho
but had long openings
beneath the shoulders for the
arms.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Valentino
Collection: Fall 2011 Couture


MODERN MEDIEVAL DRESS

Chainmail The metallic


sequins covering this body
suit imitate metal mesh of
Medieval mail used in military
costume. The mesh was made
up of small connected rings.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Alexander McQueen
Collection: Fall 2007 Read-To-Wear


MODERN MEDIEVAL DRESS
Closed mantle This upper
garment looks like a Medieval
closed mantle. A closed
mantle was single piece of
fabric with an opening cut
into the fabric where the head
was slid through. Semicircular
ones like the shape of the one
shown began to appear in the
11th century. This example is
much shorter than the often
oor-length mantles of the
Middle Ages, however it has
the same single opening for
the head and a cloak or cape-
like appearance.

Decorative edges
Womens under tunics
were often embroidered
on the neck, hem and
sleeves for decoration,

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Christian Siriano
Collection: Fall 20013 Read-To-Wear


MODERN MEDIEVAL DRESS
Outer tunic The large, wide
sleeves of this dress make it appear
similar to the sleeves of a 12th
century womans outer tunic. The
sleeves would be wide enough that
the tighter tting sleeves of the
under tunic could be seen. Outer
tunics were also belted at the waist,
similar to the gathered-in waist
here with metallic decoration.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Marchesa
Collection: Resort 2013


MODERN MEDIEVAL TRENDS
Fur

Fur in clothing became more and more


popular in the Early Medieval period.
Fur from squirrels and especially stoats
was popular. The fur from stoats was
called Miniver and Miniver pelts could
be sewn together to create linings.

While fur in the Early Medieval period
was not used on the visible outer layers
of clothing, the trend continued to
evolve and now appears on the exteriors
of clothing items. Today, fashion fur is
often faux, but may be made of real
pelts, like in this Alexander McQueen
collection made of goat fur and
Mongolian lamb.
SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Alexander McQueen
Collection: Fall 2012 Ready-To-Wear


MODERN MEDIEVAL TRENDS
Laced-Up Dresses

Many gowns in the Early


Medieval time period
laced up on the back or
sides to maintain the
trend of tighter-tting
torsos.

Today, lacing has moved
to the front of dresses as
well, as seen in these
Versace pieces.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Versace
Collection: Spring 2002 Ready-To-Wear


ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE
Basic Information
Born in 1122
Died April 1st, 1204
Eleanor became the queen of France in 1137.
After her marriage with the King of France
was declared null, she married the Duke of
Normandy. Soon after, the couple would
become the King an Queen of England in
1154.
She was a military advisor to her sons.

Inuence on Fashion
When she moved from Aquitaine to Paris,
Eleanor brought many of the Aquitaine
fashion styles to Paris.
When Eleanor visited Byzantine, she found
great interest in their styles of dress and
likely brought many of Byzantine styles back
to France.


ST. FRANCIS OF ASSISI
Basic Information
Born in 1181 A.D.
Died on October 3rd, 1226
St. Francis grew up in a wealthy family and
took part in an indulgent lifestyle. After
ghting in a battle between Assisi and Perugia
and spending a year in prison, St. Francis heard
the voice of Christ. He then lived a life of
poverty in devotion to Christ.
He was canonized two years following his
death.

Inuence on Fashion
Wearing the elaborate fashions of the wealthy
as a young man, and then converting to the
stark rough tunic of poverty, St. Francis
contrasts the dierences in clothing of the
wealthy and poor Medieval population.


SOURCES
http://ehistory.osu.edu/world/PeopleView.cfm?PID=394
http://www.biography.com/people/eleanor-of-aquitaine-9285816
http://www.biography.com/people/st-francis-of-assisi-21152679?page=1

HIGH MEDIEVAL
1300 A.D. 1399 A.D.
Module 3
Melissa Wilm


HIGH MEDIEVAL DRESS

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Chaperon The style of this


hat evolved from draping the
tail of a liripipe (a hood with a
long tail that hangs in the
back) and rolling it on top of
the head with the tail now
hanging in front.

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SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artists: Unknown
Title: Orphrey


Date: 14th century


Details: A work of embroidery using metallic and
colored thread.


HIGH MEDIEVAL DRESS
Houpplande Outer garment
tted at the shoulder and then
widening. It would be cinched
at the waist with a belt with
folds or pleats falling from the
skirt. The garment was put on
by slipping it over the head.
This example hits at the knees
and has tted sleeves.

Hose Stockings worn over


the legs.

SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artists: Spanish painter
Title: Fresco with Miracle of the Jewels


Date: 13th early 14th century


Details: A Fresco transferred from the Church of San
Fructoso.

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HIGH MEDIEVAL DRESS
Doublet (Pourpoint,
gipon) A tted and
padded garment worn on
the upper body for men.
This example appears to
have buttons down the
front, but doublets could
also be laced. He also
wears a low hanging belt.

Plate armor helmet


Plate armor was
made of solid
pieces of metal and
not the connected
metal circles of
mesh chain armor.

Hose- Stockings worn


over the legs.

Poulaine
(Crackowe) Long
pointed-toe shoes

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artists: Unknown
Title: Mourners


Date: 14th century


Details: A marble sculpture for the Netherlands.


HIGH MEDIEVAL DRESS
Sideless surcote a sleeveless
loose outer garment with wide
and long armholes. Its long
length reaches the oor.

Kirtle A dress worn beneath


the surcote that was tted at
the torso. It had long, tight
sleeves and a long, full skirt.

Tabard A loose outer


garment, usually worn by men
of lower class or by monks,
with sides attached by tabs of
fabric.
SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art
Artists: Unknown
Title: None


Date: Early 14th century


Details: A silk, linen and gold leaf purse.

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MODERN HIGH MEDIEVAL DRESS

Houppelande This garment


has the tted shoulders,
widening skirt with folds,
cinching belt and wide sleeves
of a houppelande. The style
was ideal for heavy fabrics like
the one shown.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Alexander McQueen
Collection: Fall 2011 Ready-To-Wear

Ve
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MODERN HIGH MEDIEVAL DRESS

Houppelande sleeves- The


sleeves on this dress represent
the wide bell-shaped sleeves
of a houpelande from later in
the century. These sleeves
replaced the tted sleeves of
the cotehardie.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Derercuny
Collection: Fall 2008Ready-To-Wear

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MODERN HIGH MEDIEVAL DRESS

Doublet (pourpoint, gipon)


This outer garment with its
tted shoulders and sleeves,
buttons and round neck look
like the same elements of a
Medieval doublet.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Valentino
Collection: Fall 2011 Couture

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MODERN HIGH MEDIEVAL DRESS

Cotehardie This dress has


the deep, wide and revealing
boatneck of a cotehardie as
well as the characteristic tted
sleeves. The tight bodice and
fuller skirt also mirror the
medieval outer garment,
however the cotehardies hem
would have extended to the
oor.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Valentino
Collection: Fall 2006 Couture

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MODERN HIGH MEDIEVAL TRENDS

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Hose / Leggings

Hose during the High Medieval period were


tight tting legging worn by men. They could
be parti-colored (each leg was a dierent
color) and could even have leather soles that
acted as shoes. They were worn under
houppelandes and doublets. The Fresco with
the Mircale of the Jewel cited earlier has been
repeated here as an example.

Today, hose are more commonly called
leggings and worn mostly by women. They are
common active wear elements and are also
worn under dresses and tunics.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: Isabel Marant
Collection: Fall 2013 Ready-To-Wear




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SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artists: Spanish painter
Title: Fresco with Miracle of the Jewels
Date: 13th early 14th century
Details: A Fresco transferred from the Church of San
Fructoso.


MODERN EARLY MEDIEVAL TRENDS

Poulaines (Crackowes) and Pointed-Toes Heels

The Medieval style of shoe included very long, pointed toed shoes called Poulaines or
Crackowes . These shoes were made of leather, and could also have pattens or wooden
platforms to keep feet out of mud and puddles.

A modern version includes a shorter toe with a last drastic point, such as these heels from
DKNY.

SOURCE: Style.com
Designer: DKNY
Collection: Resort 2014

SOURCE: The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Artist: Unknown
Title: None
Date: 1300-1450 A.D.

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MARCO POLO
Basic Information
Born in 1254.
Died on January 8, 1324.
Marco traveled with his father and uncle to
China to bring Christianity to the area. He
recorded his travels through the orient in his
book The Travels of Marco Polo.

Inuence on Fashion
When Polo returned to Europe, he exposed
Europe to the style of dress in Asia and
promoted the use of new textiles in Europe.
The Silk Road became especially inuential as
it brought silk from Asia to Europe.

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JOHANNES GUTENBERG
Basic Information
Born in 1395.
Died on February 3rd, 1468.
He was the rst European to use a printing
method using moveable type. This allowed for
mass-producing of literary works.
He created the Gutenberg Bible.

Inuence on Fashion
Fashion mass publications would not exist
today without the initial invention of the
printing press. With fashion magazines and
publications, dierent ideas of fashion can
reach many people from around the world.

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SOURCES
http://www.biography.com/people/marco-polo-9443861?page=1
http://www.biography.com/people/johannes-gutenberg-9323828
http://www.biographycentral.net/johann-gutenberg.php

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