Possible hub Failures

Hub Failures - http://www.crashforensics.com/wheelandhubfailures.cfm

There are four primary causes of hub failures. They are lack of lubrication, overloading the
vehicle, installing the axle nut too tight, or installing the axle nut too loose. Usually, hub failures
are progressive and will produce some evidence of the impending failure. Evidence of a failing
hub can include leaking hub seals, tire tread wear anomalies, sounds, smells, smoke, and
steering wheel feedback.
The bearing preload is adjusted by tightening the axle nut down against two cone-shaped
bearings. As the nut is tightened, the hub assembly becomes tight and the play is removed from
the system. Once the bearing preload is adjusted, a lock is installed to prevent the axle nut from
moving. Although, there are many types of locks for axle nuts, some common ones are a cotter
pin placed through a castled hex nut or a keyed washer placed over a flat hex nut followed by a
second nut to hold the washer in place.
The proper method for adjusting and preloading bearings has 5 to 8 steps, but is rarely followed.
Here is an example of one methedology published by the bearing manufacturer Timken:

1. Torque the adjusting nut to 200 lb-ft to seat the bearing components. Always rotate
or oscillate the wheel while torquing the adjusting nut to ensure that the rollers are
fully seated against the cone large rib.
2. Back off the adjusting nut one full turn or until it's loose.
3. This is where you actually establish end play. Torque the adjusting nut to 50 lb-ft
while rotating the wheel hub assembly.
4. Back off the inner (adjusting) nut the appropriate amount as indicated by the chart
at right; e.g., 1/6 of a turn for a 12-threads-per-inch front steer axle. See chart at
right for the exact back-off amount.

5. On a single-nut system, install a cotter pin. On a double-nut system install a jam nut
and torque it to the proper specification, which varies depending on the size of the
nut.
Once these steps are preformed, also recommended is that the hub's end-play be measured with
a dial indicator to verify proper preload.
A hub that is adjusted too loose will allow the hub and wheel assembly to oscillate laterally. This
will cause bearing wear and will cause a further increase in hub looseness. The loose hub allows
excessive movement of the bearing rollers resulting in roller cage wear and uneven race wear or
"scalloping". If not repaired, the bearing play will increase progressively to the point where the
hub fails.

A hub that is adjusted too tight will not have a lubricant barrier between the bearing rollers and
bearing races. Without a lubricant barrier, the bearing will overheat and fatigue. This condition
will lead to full bearing lock up and hub separation if not corrected. This condition will be
evidenced by heat discoloration and fatigue spalling on the bearings.
Overloading a hub creates similar conditions as over-tightening the hub. The excessive weight
forces the lubricant from between the bearing rollers and bearing races on the loaded side of the
bearing causing localized heat and fatigue.
Lack of lubrication also causes metal to metal contact between the bearings and races. This
results in excessive heat, bearing and race scoring, and microspalling fatigue. This condition, if
not corrected, will lead to bearing lock up and hub separation.
The mechanism of failed hub separation can vary by the design of the hub. Some hubs have a
small outer bearing and axle nut. When the outer bearing fails, the hub can just slip past the
axle nut and remaining parts of the outer bearing. In hubs with large outer bearings, separation
of the hub occurs when the oscillating hub causes the axle nut to be pulled off the axle like a
bottle cap. In other cases, the axle nut is pulled off the axle, ripping the threads out of the axle
nut and leaving the threads on the hardened axle relatively undamaged.