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CUTTING DEPARTMENT
B 4.1 Functioning
Fabric lots are issued to the Cutting Room by the Store in accordance with a weekly
production plan (prepared by production planners in the Okhla office) that lays down
the number of pieces of a particular style to be cut each day.
Before the spreading process, spreading table is covered with brown perforated
paper. The marker is prepared in advance using CAD software. This means the
marker length is known beforehand.
First, a single ply of fabric is spread over the brown paper. The length of this ply is
deliberately kept a little more than the marker length. The ply is cut off from the roll
and fixed to the perforated paper with cello-tape. This serves as a reference for the
spreaders to spread the remaining plies.
The spreading is done manually by the layer-man.
Now, subsequent plies are spread over this reference ply. Manually operated weights
are used to hold the plies in their place.
All data is recorded in the Cutting Details format by the spreaders. Apart from
entering the No. of Plies required to be cut, Style No., Type of Fabric, Color and
Layer Length, spreaders also note down the Lot No. /Roll No. of the roll from which
fabric is being spread.
If during spreading, a roll finishes off and the required number of plies has not yet
been spread, another roll has to be spread now. In this case, a sheet of tissue paper
equal to the length of the spread is put on it before unrolling a new roll. This is also
done whenever spreaders encounter a stitch in the roll (two smaller rolls are stitched
together to form a bigger roll). This helps in tracking down the precise roll from
which a particular part was cut in case part change is required (part change cannot be
done from any random roll as different rolls have shade variations between them).
No. of plies spread from each roll is also noted down in the Cutting Details format at
the time of spreading.
Remnant refers to the amount of fabric left in a roll after it has been spread
completely (e.g. a roll has 100 m of fabric in it and the lay length is 6 m. That means,
a maximum of 16 lays is possible from this roll as 100/6 = 16. So 4 m of fabric
remains after spreading is complete. This is noted as the remnant.).
Under Off Cuts, small quantities of fabric which are cut from the start or end of a
roll are noted.
After spreading is complete, the marker is put over the lay and fixed with cello-tape.
For woven fabrics, laser - guided automatic CAM cutter is used.
However, for knitted fabrics, the marker is first secured on the lay with a cello-tape
(always inserted away from the periphery of the pattern). Then the entire lay is cut
into rectangular blocks using straight knife machine. These cut blocks are then left
for relaxation for a certain amount of time (e.g. knit fabrics has to be left idle for
anywhere between 30 to 60 minutes before final cutting). Finally, precision cutting of
the patterns is done by band knife cutting machine.
Cut parts are stored size-wise on bakers trolley.
Cut parts are then issued to the Ticketing Section from the cutting section.
Pieces which are to be fused are sent to the fusing machine after ticketing process.
Often, while cutting, the pieces which are to be fused are not cut out individually but
as a block. This saves time during the fusing process. Once fusing is done, the
individual pieces are cut by using band knife machine.
Each sewing line was allotted a space below cutting tables for temporary storage of
cut pieces.
The cut parts are temporarily stored under the allotted sewing line name in which that
particular style is running.
Whenever cut parts are required by the sewing floor; the loader can directly pick up
the cut parts from their allotted lines. This helps to minimize the mixing of cut pieces
of various styles.
2. Assigning job/operation to the terminal: In the line, each operator would perform
specific job. Prior to start of the work each employee punch their employee RFID
card on the terminal (workstation). Assigning of job can be done by using job cards
or entering job number to the terminal.
3. Scanning of cards at terminals: Each operator scans the IN-card before starting the
work. When operator finishes the work, he/she scans the OUT-card after ending the
work. Once operator scans the card, information will be stored and displayed to the
computer.
4. Viewing report: System records all transactions made by operators and supervisors.
System analyses the records and display reports on the pre-set format. Modification
of digital information can be possible by administrator. For example, system gives
report of individual operators efficiency. In order to calculate an operators
efficiency, system needs two types of information minutes produced by the operator
during the day and minutes operator spent or present (sign in) at his work.
The Functions and Features of the RFID system implementation in the cutting room are:
1. Real Time Data Capturing: The RFID cards are registered through the reader at every
workstation, so that the information for the start and end of each job can be
transmitted to the main server at real-time for storage, categorizing, tracing,
processing and analysing.
2. Real Time Monitoring: The system offers real-time visibility of the whole Work In
Progress production. Real-time information can be shared securely and conveniently
no matter where you are. Management can get access to the real-time data at
anywhere and anytime, so as to monitor the progress of each task, understand
employees individual working efficiency etc.
3. Work Place Control: The RFID device provides full traceability, thus enables
management to anticipate the time required for a specific task, and manage the floor
to ensure high performance. Identifies the causes for non-productive time instantly.
4. Remote Monitoring: It allows remote immediate visibility and monitoring to factory
performance no matter where you are through the internet or over local area
networks.
The application will automatically calculate and perform statistical analysis, sophisticated
management reports can be generated instantly like:
1. Operational Efficiency Analysis: In-depth analysis on working efficiency, production
output etc.
2. Workers NPT (Non-Productive Time) Analysis: Understands the causes and duration
for each down time. Helps in improving scheduling jobs.
B 4.2.1 RFID Process flow
Selection of job
card and
punching in the
leadtec terminal.
Punching In card
to start the job in
the leadtec
terminal
EXECUTIVE CUTTING
HEAD
Mr. Saurabh Sisodiya
CUTTING SUPERVISOR
Mr. Jagdish Prasad
CUTTING Q.A.
HEAD
Mr. Bhoginder Jha
RFID DATA
MANAGERS
CUTTING MASTER
Mr. Rajiv Kumar
ERP SOFTWARE
Mr. Jagdish Mehta
Mr. Kapil Dhania
CUTTING
ASSISTANT 1
Mr. SARAN SINGH
CUTTING ASSISTANT
2
Mr. Govind Kumar
REALTEK
SOFTWARE
Mr. Amit Shonak
CUTTING ASSISTANT
3
Mr. Avdesh kumar
RFID CARD
MAPPING
Mr. Vijay kumar
OPERATORS
LAYERMAN/CUTTERS
(13)
HELPERS
(16)
Plotter
Manufacturer/Model no.
Eastman /Blue Streak II
Wastema/ SKU TexKnife 492
Assyst bullmer / PROCUT XL 7501
Shinko summi/SR-400
KMS-Mini fusing press/KCF-450 U
Kumsung Co.Ltd/ Fusemaster
POPJET 1800C
Quantity
5
1
1
1
1
1
1
Master checks
marker plotter
as per grain/part
placement and
make changes if
needed.
MARKER &
PLOTTER REVIEW
SPREADING
QA checks layer
width/length and
record.
OK
CUTTING
(MANUAL/CAM/BAN
D KNIFE)
RECUTTING
CHECKI
NG
TICKETING
(STICKERING/STA
MP/
TEX MARKER)
FUSING
EMBROIDER
Y
Inspectio
n by Q.A.
RECUTTING
Check
Temp/pressure/
time by
thermostat
strip and
record, follow
in bulk
accordingly/dai
ly basis
c) Table Marks: Check that the table is marked carefully. Allow no minus tolerance for
splices.
d) Markers: Ensure that no makers are creased, damaged, or have overlapped parts.
e) Splices: After completion of the spread, check splice laps to see that both plies
extend past the marked splice by no less than inch and no more than 1 inch.
f) Narrow Goods: After the completion of a spread, check the far edge of the spread to
see that all the plies extend beyond the marker line.
g) Tension: Check tension during spreading. Important for knit fabrics.
h) Count: Check the count after completion of spreading and before cutting. Count all
plies at both ends. There is no tolerance.
i) Leaning: Check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to the table
top. Visually inspect the alignment of the edge with the tabletop.
j) Defects: Any defects found must be reported and checked 100%. When sections of
fabric are removed due to flaws, it must be recorded.
k) Spreaders should also make sure that fabric defects are cut out of the rolls of fabric
before they are spread.
Cutting - For good quality cutting, check the following:
The quality analyzer should check each cutter at a 2.5 Accepted Quality Level (AQL)
based on the number of parts being cut. Following should be checked by the Quality
Control Inspector:
a) Miscut: Check for miscut, or the failure of the cutter to split the line. Tolerance is
1/8. Report all defects for miscut to the cutting supervisor.
b) Matching plies: Check the top ply with the bottom ply. Comply both with a hard
pattern or the paper marker. Comparison to a hard pattern is best. Tolerance is 1/8.
Report all defects to the cutting supervisor.
c) Ragged cutting: Check for ragged cutting according to the standards of your product.
This is a judgement defect. It is more important on critical parts. If the part has to be
re-cut, it is a defect.
d) Notches: Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the top ply. Tolerance
is 1/8. If the notch is more than the tolerance level, contact the cutting supervisor.
e) Pattern Check: Compare the pattern to the marker paper to ensure the maker is
correct. Make sure that the pattern is correctly spread and that it has no bias.
B 4.7.1 Acceptable Quality Level (Level 2.5)
Lot size or Batch size
AQL 2.5
Sample Size
5
20
20
32
2.5
Accept
0
1
1
2
Reject
1
2
2
3
1201-3200
3201-10,000
10,001-35,000
35,001-1,50,000
1,50,001-5,00,000
5,00,001 and over
50
80
125
200
315
3
5
7
10
14
4
6
8
11
15
500
21
22