.co.

uk
HOW TO: Build a stud partition wall

Introduction
This ‘How to’ covers the planning and construction of a stud partition
wall. It explains how to build a timber framework, and how to then attach
plasterboard. You'll also learn how to make a doorway and how to run
pipes and cables through the new partition.

Forward planning is particularly important in this job. Plan your partition before
you start, and prevent complications arising in what should be a fairly simple
construction job.

What you’ll need

Materials
Timber (softwood) Nails Tools & equipment
For rooms up to 2590mm high (8ft 6in): 100mm round wire Chalk line/plumb bob
• 47mm x 75mm 75mm round wire Claw hammer – 16 oz
For rooms over 2590mm high (8ft 6in): 60mm round wire Electric hammer drill
• 47mm x 100mm For fixing door linings, architraves and skirtings: 13mm firmer chisel
For supporting electrical fittings, handbasins, etc • 60mm oval wire + 50mm oval wire Flooring bolster chisel
•18mm x 145mm planed timber For fixing plasterboard: G-cramps
Redwood door lining kit to suit • for 9mm board: 30mm jagged plasterboard Glass wool
partition thickness nails
Hard point hand saw – 560mm
Plasterboard • for 12.5mm board: 40mm jagged plasterboard
nails Large try square
Available in the following sizes: • for double thickness plasterboard: 50mm Masonry drill bits
• 9mm x 1200mm x 2400mm jagged plasterboard nails Steel tape measure minimum 3m
• 9mm x 900mm x 1800mm Screws Nail punch
• 9mm x 900mm x 1200mm For fixing studs to walls: Pencil
• 120mm frame fixings Plaster caulking tool
• 9mm x 400mm x 1200mm
For fixing plates to concrete walls and ceilings: Round sponge plaster float
• 12mm x 1200mm x 2400mm
• 80mm frame fixings Rule – 600mm
Plasterboard joint filler Screwdrivers – medium and large
For fixing the ceiling and floor plates:
Self-adhesive joint tape Spirit level – 225mm & 900mm
• 90mm x 5.5mm (no.10) countersunk
Glass wool slabs (for insulation) wood screws Tenon saw – 250mm
Craft knife

Hints
• Glass wool will give heat and sound insulation.
• Two layers of plasterboard will increase sound insulation.

Before you begin

Check for pipes and cables
Examine the existing room to find any electricity cables and pipe runs (fig. 1). Mark
cables and pipes with coloured chalk or felt pen.

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 HOW TO: Build a stud partition wall
Before you begin (cont.)

Typical design for stud partition wall framework: Dimensions are for 9mm plasterboard.
dependent
400mm 400mm 400mm see below 400mm 400mm on length
screws of wall
light switch
cable extra noggins
ceiling plate if wall is over
header 2440mm high
stud
detail
“1B”
door header

detail“1A”
studs

support noggins for noggins

hanging cupboard door opening
width = door width +
2 x door liner
thickness + 6mm 120 mm
100mm
support noggins for frame
height = door height w.c. cistern, hand fixings
+ one thickness of
doorliner + thickness basin etc.
of floorcovering
+ 6mm
water
pipe
screws
this section of
floor plate removed floor or sole
after wall is built plate

ring main

ring main floor boards floor joists

fig. 1

Plan your room

Make a scale plan of the room and consider the position of:

• electrical, plumbing and heating fittings

• the door – can people get in and out of the room easily?

• windows – check that the partition won't divide a window

• cupboards, radiators, hand basins, lavatory cisterns.

will the partition need special built-in supports (noggins)
for hanging these? (figs. 1, 7)

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 HOW TO: Build a stud partition wall
Before you begin (cont.)

Locate floor and ceiling joists

st
joi
er
ar
be
Floor and ceiling joists usually run at right angles to the floorboards. It's easier to run
stud partitioning at right angles to the joists, as you can nail the sole and ceiling plates wooden

to the joists. cleat

If the partition has to run parallel to the joists, try to set it directly over a joist. It’s screws
worth losing or gaining a few centimetres to save a lot of extra work.

If you can't set your partition over a joist, you'll have to fit bearers between the joists
fig. 1b
to support the partition (figs. 1b, 2, 3). These should be at 600mm intervals, starting
600mm from the wall.

Frame stud centres: 9mm thick plasterboard 400mm. 12.5mm thick plasterboard 600mm.

Building the framework

1. Mark guidelines
Use a chalk line to mark one edge of the frame on the floor. Continue the line
te
vertically up the walls using either a plumb line or a spirit level. Again use a chalk line erp
la
ar n
to mark across the ceiling. be de
oo ts
w clea
r
so
w s
2. Fix sole & ceiling plates re il
sc na

Measure for exact length and cut the sole and ceiling plates. Position the sole plate on
the floor. Measure and cut two studs 25mm over length. Mark the sole plate with the
positions of the door opening (see fig. 1 for dimensions) and stud centres. Offer up the fig. 2
ceiling plate and jam it into position with the studs (fig. 5).

Use the plumb line to transfer one of the floor plate marks onto the ceiling plate. Take
down the ceiling plate, align it with the sole plate and, with a try square and pencil,
mark off the position of the studs. Screw the sole and ceiling plates into position,
avoiding pipe and cable runs.

3. Fix studs
Cut the two wall studs to an exact fit between the two plates. Fix these against the
wall, using 120mm frame fixings. Skew nail the studs to the floor and ceiling plates
(hammer in at an angle) (fig. 3). Cut and skew nail the remaining studs into position. fig. 3

Use a large spirit level to check each stud is vertical and adjust as necessary.

Hints
• Use large G-cramps to hold the studs whilst drilling or nailing (fig. 6).
• Predrill the nail holes to make nailing easier and reduce the likelihood of the studs
slipping out of vertical. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the nail diameter.

4. Make a doorway
Cut and remove the floor plate in the door opening. Make up the door lining, hold it
in position with G-cramps, and nail in the doorframe header and support stud then
remove the lining.

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 HOW TO: Build a stud partition wall
Building the framework (cont.)

5. Fit noggins
Cut noggins to fit between studs and nail in position half-way up the wall (fig. 3). Also
fit any bearer noggins needed for ancillary fittings (figs. 1, 7).

Dealing with pipes and cables

Run pipes and cables before fixing plasterboard. Holes drilled in studs will weaken
them, so try to run pipes parallel to them. If you must, drill holes as small as possible in
the centre of the stud. Run vertical pipes and cables through the centre of noggins, or fig. 5
use narrow noggins (fig. 7).

Don’t run cables and pipes through the same hole. And don’t let plaster or plasterboard
core come into contact with copper pipe, as the gypsum in the plaster can corrode the
copper. If necessary, run pipes through slightly larger plastic sleeving (for example,
plastic water or waste piping). If the walls are to be filled with insulation and to avoid
overheating, cables must be run in plastic conduit.

All work on services must comply with IEE Wiring Regulations, Building regulations and
Water Authority Byelaws.

Fixing the plasterboard

1. Cut plasterboard
Cut the plasterboard 13mm shorter than the height of the room. Score along a meas-
ured line with a trimming knife. Snap the board along the line and then cut the paper
on the other side. Trim off ragged edges with coarse glasspaper and a sanding block.

Mark the position of studs, noggins, pipes and cables onto the floor, walls and ceiling
on both sides of the partition.

2. Fix first side

fig. 6
Place the board in position. Mark and remove any cut-outs for light switch and socket
boxes (position these at least 18mm away from studs and noggins). Also mark the
position of pipes and cables.

Reposition the board and lift it tight to the ceiling using a wooden foot lifter made
from a 75mm x 50mm offcut (fig. 8).

Drive in two or three nails to hold the plasterboard. Then fix it with plasterboard
nails at approximately 150mm centres all round the board, 13mm in from the edge,
and across the centre of the noggins. Drive the nails just below the surface without
breaking the paper. Avoid penetrating pipes and cables.

3. Insulate fig. 7

After completing one side, fill the gap with glass wool slabs for good heat and
sound insulation before applying plasterboard to the second side.

If a second layer of plasterboard is required for additional insulation, to reduce the

likelihood of surface cracking, stagger the joints (fig. 9).

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 HOW TO: Build a stud partition wall
Finishing the partition

1. Fit door lining & frame

When you've clad both sides of the wall, fit the door lining kit (fig. 10). You may need
to plane the edges to ensure that the boards are the correct width. Allow an extra
3mm overall if the wall is to be plastered. You may have to pack out the lining with
card or hardboard strips to make it fit. Ensure that the sides are vertical and that
the header is horizontal and square to the sides.

Fix the frame using 50mm oval nails. Punch the nails below the surface and fill the
holes. Use screws if the timber is to be varnished. Counterbore the screws and fill fig. 8
the holes with wooden plugs. Glue the plugs into place and trim them off flush
with the surface.

2. Fill the joints

Plaster skim the wall surfaces at this stage. Alternatively, if you've fixed the boards
ivory side out, fill and tape the joints as follows.

Run a strip of self-adhesive jointing tape down the joint, pressing it firmly onto the
boards with the caulking tool. Use the same tool to apply a band of filler, about
75mm wide, forcing it into the crack. Remove excess filler. Apply filler to the nail
heads to flush them off. note how sheets
are staggered
if two layers of
After one hour, apply a second coat of filler, 100mm wide, to the joints. Remove plasterboard are
excess filler and then feather off with a damp round sponge float. When dry, used for sound
insulation
remove any bumps or roughness with medium glasspaper. mineral
wool slabs
for sound
3. Decorate insulation

Decorate after two days. When the filling is completely dry, fix any skirtings, picture fig. 9
rails, architraves and coving into place. Use plasterboard boxes to terminate wiring
for switches and socket outlets. HB

door stop

fig. 10

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