HOW- TO HOW-TO BUILD WITH GLASS BLOCKS

Using glass blocks is a versatile and innovative way to build without blocking out light. They cast a
shimmering diffused light and are available in various colours, plus translucent or opaque finishes.
Glass blocks are water-resistant, easy to clean and very strong, with excellent sound control qualities.

This How-To guide explains how to plan and construct a glass block wall.

MATERIALS

• Glass blocks • Adhesive mortar

• Corner blocks • Silicone sealant
• Glass tiles for edging • Panel grout and caulk (for bathrooms,
• Compression strips kitchens and gardens)
• Panel anchors • Wall plugs
• Reinforcing rods 1.5m long • Spacers, 10mm

TOOLS

• Electric hammer drill with HSS twist • Spirit level

and masonry bits • Tape measure
• Caulking gun for sealant • Plumb line
• Hard-point hand saw • Pencil
• Hacksaw • Mixing buckets
• Screwdriver to suit fixings • Sponge
• Trowels for brick and pointing • Clean, dry cloth
• Brick jointing tool fi round (pointing iron) • Small step ladder
• Mixing paddle used in a heavy duty, slow • Extension cable
running power drill • Spot board for mortar

HOW - TO 1
 F1

F2

BEFORE YOU START

You will need to determine the overall size of the panel. The modular size of the blocks including one vertical
and one horizontal joint is 200mm. Multiply this by the number of joints in a run and add 10mm for the final joint.
Example: A panel seven blocks high by six blocks wide will measure:
Height 7 x 200 + 10 = 1410mm
Width 6 x 200 + 10 = 1210mm

Estimating mortar
Pre-mixed glass block adhesive mortar comes in 25kg bags. One bag will be enough for around 20 blocks
(190mm x 190mm x 80mm). Follow the preparation instructions carefully.

Preparing glass block spacers

You will need roughly 1.5 spacers per block, plus 10%. There are actually 3 spacers in one unit; trimming off
different elements creates 'L' and 'T' spacers (F1). Adding 10% extra will allow you to trim for different shapes
without needing to return to the shop.

Reinforcement rods
For panels with spans greater than 1.4m, reinforcement rods must be mortared into the top of every horizontal
course (for 190mm x 190mm x 80mm blocks). If you use more than one strip on a course, overlap them by
150mm (F2).

HOW - TO 2
 F3 F4

P R E PA R AT I O N
1 Build your wall onto a solid, level base. Check with a spirit level for accuracy. Use concrete or cement mortar
to level out the base where necessary.

I M P O R TA N T
When building glass blocks into a structured or load bearing wall, a steel or concrete lintel must be placed above
the blocks extending into the brickwork on either side by 150mm. Never drill or cut the glass blocks.

2 If the space you are building your wall in does not measure exactly in multiples of 200mm, use concrete or
cement render to fill the gaps. Create an equal layer on both sides to retain the symmetry; for example, a gap
50mm too wide will require 25mm filling on each side before the blocks are laid. Vertical rendering should be
built up in layers no more than 12-15mm. Thick wooden battens (groundings) can be nailed into the wall to
ensure the rendering is vertical.
3 Ensure the working area is clean and clear of obstructions.

H I N T:
Always cover surrounding surfaces to avoid impact damage during construction.

4 The glass block panel is tied into the frame using panel anchors, which are embedded into the mortar (F3).
They are screwed to jambs (vertical edges) and heads (top of the wall), but not to the sill (base of the wall).
Anchors are placed at 400mm intervals.
5 Foam expansion strips form a cushion between the glass block panel and the wall. They should be stapled or
nailed along the jamb (and head if necessary) between anchors.
6 Should you wish to make your glass block wall turn a corner, you will need to use corner blocks (F4).

H I N T:
Spacer crossbars should face downward. The crossbar should only face upwards at the sill, as a ‘T’ Spacer.

HOW - TO 3
 F5 F6

F7

CONSTRUCTION
Laying the first course
1 Add the foundation layer of mortar to the sill, ensuring that a 10mm joint will remain when the blocks are in
place.
2 Using 'L' and 'T' spacers on the sill and jamb surfaces, insert the first block at the lower corner. Push the
block snugly into place, ensuring that it is properly seated. Place an uncut spacer on the upper corner of the
first block (F5).
3 Apply a layer of mortar to the vertical edge of the next block and put it into place. Again, check the block is
properly seated.
4 Continue laying the first course. Periodically check the spirit level and plumb line to ensure the panel's
accuracy, adjusting where necessary (F6).

Building the rest of the wall

1 Make sure that the tops of the blocks, with spacers in place, slip under the panel anchors. When you have
finished each course, apply mortar to the top, embedding the anchors (F7).
2 Smooth the mortar out and make sure that the crosslegs of the spacers are free of mortar to ensure accurate
spacing.
3 Press a strip of reinforcing rod (where necessary) into the mortar.
4 When laying the top course, put the 'L' and 'T' spacers in place before inserting the blocks.

HOW - TO 4
 F8 F9

F10 F11

FINISHING OFF
1 Using a sponge or damp cloth, remove excess mortar from the faces of the blocks. Do not wait until the
mortar has dried. Rinse often and take care not to use any abrasive products. Twist the end tabs off all the
spacers (F8).
2 After the mortar has set for one hour, use a fi round jointing tool to smooth the joints. This will compact the
mortar to create a moisture-resistant seal and make your wall look tidy. After striking, all the joints should be
completely full of mortar.
3 For installations in high moisture areas, such as bathrooms, gardens or kitchens, rake the joints to a depth of
10mm. After setting for 24 hours, fill the joints with panel grout.
4 Wait one or two hours and wipe the block faces clean with a soft cloth.
5 With the caulk gun, apply silicone sealant continuously along the seams where the block panel joins the
jambs and head on both sides of the panel (F9).
6 Trim may also be applied at the seams. If you have a wooden curb, cover it with moulding.
7 Matching coloured glass tiles can be placed on the final layer of a free standing wall (F10).
8 Ensure the mortar is fully dried and all the inner surfaces are clean before attaching glass tiles to the edge of
the glass wall to finish off (F11).

HOW - TO 5