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HOW- TO HOW-TO BUILD A FENCE

A fence is not only a practical boundary marker, but when imaginatively planted with shrubs and
climbers, it also acts as an attractive screen, offering some security as well as shelter and privacy.

This How-To guide summarises how to select the best type of fence for your needs, the materials you will
need and fence erection methods. Depending on the type of fence to be constructed, tools from the fol-
lowing range will be needed:

TOOLS YOU MAY NEED

• Electric drill and residual current device (RCD). • Piece of timber for ramming hardcore and
If electricity is unavailable, use a cordless drill concrete, 50mm x 50mm x 1m
(minimum 7.2V) or a brace
• 3m locking tape measure
• Bits for the drill or brace
• Try square
• Hardpoint handsaw, 56cm
• Pencil
• Sledgehammer
• Pegs, for fixing the line
• Claw hammer, 16oz
• Builder's line (string)
• Club hammer
• Bucket
• Long cold chisel
• Fence post hole borer*
• Screwdriver
• Post spade*
• Spanners to suit bolts on certain
• Spirit level
post sockets
*These items are available for hire.
• Post 'dolly', for use with metal post sockets

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MATERIALS

TIMBER (PRE-TREATED)
The following products are sold by HOMEBASE

L A P F E N C E , T R E L L I S A N D L AT T I C E PA N E L S
Available from HOMEBASE in several styles and sizes.

POSTS
100mm x 100mm x 3m or 2.7m or 2.4m or 2.1m or 1.8m
75mm x 75mm x 3m or 2.7m or 2.4m 2.1m or 1.8m or 1.5m or 1.2m
50mm x 50mm x 2.4m or 2.1m or 1.8m or 1.5m

F E AT H E R - E D G E B O A R D
For close-boarded fencing, 1.8m and 2.4m boards each give 100mm cover.

G R AV E L B O A R D
They are designed to increase the life of a fence by raising if off the ground and are easily replaceable.
They can be fixed using 'Fence Fix' (F6) brackets or by fixing to wooden cleats nailed to the post (F8).

ARRIS RAIL
Triangular sectional lengths of timber used to support feather-edge boarding or square edge planks, they
measure 2.1m or 2.4m (F8).

CAPPING STRIP
Used to protect the top edge of a fence from rain and other weather damage (F9).

POST CAPS AND FINIALS

These are used to protect and enhance the top of posts.

TREATMENT OF TIMBER
Cheaper and quicker to build than a wall, it is advisable to use materials that have been treated with
preservative, due to timber's susceptibility to insect and fungal attack. This, combined with simple, regular
maintenance, will ensure a long life. All of the proprietary fencing sold by HOMEBASE has been chemically
treated to give an enhanced life. The treatment is not harmful to plants or animals.

Wherever possible, use pre-treated materials. When cutting these, treat the ends with garden timber
preservative sold by HOMEBASE, following the manufacturer's instructions. If possible, immerse the
cut ends in a bucket of preservative for at least five minutes or one hour if the cut end is to be buried in soil.
Untreated timber should be either liberally painted or immersed in preservative. Spread out a thick polythene
sheet before painting.

HINT
Wear rubber gloves and eye protection when handling timber preservative.

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 F1 F2

F3 F4

SOCKETS

M E TA L P O S T S O C K E T S
Easy to use metal post sockets are available from HOMEBASE in the following sizes:
45mm - for posts with dimensions between 45mm x 45mm to 60mm x 60mm
65mm - for posts with dimensions between 65mm x 65mm to 80mm x 80mm
90mm - for posts with dimensions between 90mm x 90mm to 105 x 105mm
These are spiked for knocking into the ground with a sledgehammer (F1A). A 'dolly' is also available (F1B)
which is used to protect the metal sides from the hammer.

F L AT P L AT E S O C K E T S
Measuring 75mm x 75mm or 100mm x 100mm (F2), these are for bolting down onto concrete or masonry.

CONCRETE SOCKETS
These sockets are for setting into concrete and measure 75mm x 75mm (F3). This would give added strength
to high fences in exposed situations.

R E PA I R S O C K E T S
Measuring 75mm x 75mm, these are driven between the remains of an old post and its concrete surround (F4).

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 F5 F6

EXTENSION PIECES
Measuring 75mm x 75mm, these enable an existing fence to be increased in height or a trellis added (F5).

FIXINGS

‘METCLIPS’ AND ‘FENCEFIX’ BRACKETS

Metclips and Fencefix (F6) brackets are plated against rust and are available to fix fence panels. The latter may
also be used to support gravel boards.

ARRIS RAIL BRACKETS

Galvanized against rust, these can be used to fix arris rails to posts (F11). This saves making mortice and tenon
joints.

SCREWS AND NAILS

Only use those which are galvanized or sheradized, both are forms of plating applied to steel to prevent rusting.

PLANNING PERMISSION AND LAW

Planning permission from your local council will be needed if:
• The fence will be over 2m high
• The fence will be next to a road and over 1m high
• The house is a listed building
• In a conservation area
• In a national park
• In an area of outstanding natural beauty
• In the Norfolk or Suffolk broads.
There may also be restrictions if the land adjacent to or surrounding the premises has been designated as an
'Open Plan Area' by the local council. Some authorities will allow low ranch or post-and-chain fencing. Before
replacing an old fence, ensure you have ownership of it. In any case, it is a good idea to consult your neighbours,
as permission will be needed to enter their property to erect the fence. The fence should be on the property's
land, adjacent to the boundary. Though there is no legal stipulation, it is an unwritten law that the posts and rails
are on the owner's side of the fence.

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 F7 F8

C
F9

Depth
of
hole

SETTING A POST INTO THE GROUND

POST SIZING
The thickness of post used depends on the type of fencing, its height and its position (sheltered or exposed).

For trellis, fences in sheltered positions and fences up to 1.4m high in exposed positions, 75mm x 75mm is
appropriate. For all corners and fences over 1.4m high in exposed situations, 100mm x 100mm should be used.

SECURING POSTS
On open ground, the firmest means of securing a post is by digging a hole and settling the post in hardcore and
concrete. The depth to which the post should be sunk can be worked out as shown (F7).
1. Dig a hole to the required depth, using a hole spade or post hole borer (both items may be hired). A hole
borer should be withdrawn from the hole every 150mm to clear the debris. If the ground is stony, you may
need to use a long cold chisel and club hammer or a large crowbar to break up any obstructions.
2. Ram hardcore and a large stone or brick into the bottom of the hole. Place the post into the hole and backfill
with hardcore to half the depth of the hole. Use a spirit level or plumb to check the post is vertical, then ram
down the hardcore. Continue filling the hole with compacted hardcore up to two-thirds of its depth.
3. Fill the remaining space with quick-setting concrete, sloped off at the top to allow rain to run off.
4. Check that the post is vertical using a spirit level and if necessary, brace the post while the concrete is
setting, using battens nailed to the post and attached to pegs in the ground.
5. Posts immediately adjacent to solid masonry may be secured to the wall using the appropriate size of frame
fixings. Mastic should be applied between the post and the wall to prevent moisture bridging the damp-proof
course.

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 F10
Capping strip

Arris rail

F11

CLOSE BOARD FENCING

The distance between the posts can be set to suit the situation. In sheltered areas, place them 2.4m apart. If the
fence is exposed or over 1.4m in height, use 1.8m spacing. The arris rails can be morticed into the posts (F8) or
they can be fixed into place more easily with galvanized metal brackets (F9).

1. Stretch string between two pegs to set out the line of the fence. Erect the first post, ensuring that it is vertical.
2. Use the length of a gravel board or arris rail to determine the position of the next post and erect that.
Continue in this fashion until all of the posts are fixed.
3. If the arris rails are to be morticed, the post should only be temporarily held in position. Mark out the mortices,
then cut them before fixing the posts permanently.
4. From the ground, measure vertically up the two end posts and mark the position of the top of the gravel
board, arris rails and board tops (F10).
5. The arris rails should be fixed to the posts about 225mm above the gravel board, and below the top of the
feather-edge boards. For fences over 1.4m in height, a third rail should be fixed midway between the other
two.
6. Stretch a string between the two end posts on the gravel board marks and using either frame clips (F6) or
wooden cleats (F8), line up and fix the gravel boards.
7. Move the string so that it lines up with the arris rails. If using mortices, they must be fixed into the posts
before the post is fixed into position. If using metal arris rail brackets (F9), nail these into the rails first and
then nail the rails to the posts. The rails must be set back from the line of the post by at least 1fi times the
maximum thickness of the feather-edge boards.
8. When the whole frame is erected, move the string to line up the tops of the boards. Cut the first board of
each panel to the height of the top string above the gravel board and nail it to the arris rail 18mm from the
thick edge of the boards.
9. Stand the remaining boards on the gravel board so that each overlaps the other by 12-15mm. Loosely nail
them to the top rail only. This will enable adjustments to be made ensuring equal spacing. The last board in
each section should be reversed (F11).
10. At overlaps, the nail should be driven through the thick edge of the feather board, avoiding the thin edge of
the board below. Reverse the feather boards on alternate panels. This will allow more even weathering and
give a more attractive appearance.
11. When all of the boards are fixed, using the string as a guide, saw the feather boards level. Nail on the cap
ping strip, check and cut the posts to even height and nail on the post caps, which should be pre-drilled to
avoid splitting.

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 F12 F13

F14

PANEL FENCING
1. Set out the fence position with string and pegs.
2. Before driving in post sockets, be sure to check the position of underground services. Drive in the first
post socket using a socket dolly and a sledgehammer. Use short strokes of the hammer (F12).
3. As you drive in the socket, check regularly using a spirit level that it is vertical and not twisting. Use the
handles on the dolly to twist the socket back into alignment.
4. When the top of the socket is just above ground level, fit the post into the socket.
5. Offer up the panel to the centre line of the post and temporarily tack it into position using either panel
brackets or 65mm nails into pre-drilled holes. (F13).
6. Set the next post socket against the end of the panel and drive it into the ground, ensuring that it is vertical
and in alignment (F14).
7. Fix the panel clips, if used, to the post and knock it into the socket. Secure the panel at both ends, ensuring
that the top is level.
8. If a gravel board is to be used, make sure that the panel is high enough off the ground to accommodate this.
It may be fixed using either panel brackets or wooden cleats.
9. Carry on until all of the posts and panels are fixed and then fit the panel capping and post caps.
10. To make a panel smaller, mark off the required length, nail pre-treated battens to both sides (as at the panel
ends) and saw off the waste. On sloping ground, it may be necessary to stagger the panels. Shrubs and
plants soon hide the variation in levels.

HINT
Under no circumstances should panels rest on the ground. The use of gravel boards is essential to enable a
fence to last.

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